I Love Korea!

!
a
e
r
o
K
e
v
o
IL
storyofofwhy
why 33
33 foreign
tourists
TheThe
story
foreign
tourists
fellininlove
love with
with Korea.
fell
Korea.
Co-planned
VisitKorea
KoreaCommittee
Committee &&the
JoongAng
DailyDaily
Co-planned
by by
thethe
Visit
theKorea
Korea
JoongAng
!
a
e
r
o
K
e
v
o
IL
The story of why 33 foreign tourists
fell in love with Korea.
Co-planned by the Visit Korea Committee & the Korea JoongAng Daily
I Love Korea !
This book was co-published by the Visit Korea Committee
and the Korea JoongAng Daily newspaper. “The Korea
Foreigners Fell in Love With” was a column published from
April, 2010 until October, 2012 in the week& section of the
Korea JoongAng Daily. Foreigners who visited and saw
Korea’s beautiful nature, culture, foods and styles have
sent in their experiences with pictures attached. I Love
Korea is an honest and heart-warming story of the Korea
these people fell in love with.
contents
012 Korea
070 Heritage of Korea _ Tradition & History
072General Yi Sun-sin
016 Nature of Korea _ Mountains, Oceans & Roads
018 Bicycle Riding in Seoul The 8 Streams of Seoul, and Chuseok
024Hiking the Baekdudaegan Mountain Range 548 km bike ride from Busan to Seoul, thank you for the helmet-ful of Korean love
034 Jeju Olle Trail A life spent falling in love with the four seasons of Namsan Mountain, a life already 21 years old
058Photo Journey of Korea The intoxicating orange light from the rising sun, I had fallen in love with the East Coast
064Tour of Ulleungdo Island
080Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul
When you’ve missed the last boat, that’s when you get to see the generosity of Ulleungdo Island
Jeongdok Public Library, Samcheong Park and the Asian Art Museum, a cluster of Seoul Charm
092Templestay I almost lost my knees doing the 108 bows, barely kept my eyes open during the early morning service, but I got to known a new side of Korea
098The Gi (energy) Experience of Palgongsan Mountain
I was mesmerized by the sight of migratory birds I saw in Suncheonman Bay, Haenam
052 Walking on Seoul's Namsan Mountain
Taekwondo is a friend of 20 years, and now I’m a Korean at heart
The Geoje Sanmaru-gil Road that I made, you will be shocked
046Migratory Bird Habitats in Korea 076Panmunjeom & the DMZ
086Taekwondo I received a precious gift from this earth, I feel 10 Years Younger thanks to the Olle trail
040 Hiking in Geojedo Island
Ah, so heart breaking! Only a few steps separate the south to the north
Yikes! Bang! What?! Hahaha…an unforgettable night at the Jirisan National Park’s Shelters
030Busan  Seoul Bicycle Tour
General! I get very emotional seeing you standing in the middle of Seoul with a big sword
One of my wishes was fulfilled that day “Arigato, Gatbawi!”
104 Culture of Korea _ Hallyu & Passion
106Tour of Busan 176 Tastes of Korea _ Nature, Health & Body
178Jeonju Bibimbap
It’s more affectionate because it’s loud and crazy. Haeundae is a place you just keep wanting to go back to
110Tour of Drama Filming Locations I go to soccer stadiums to feel the “Real” Korea
120 Journey of Korean Literature
I proposed to my girlfriend at Lotte World, and she couldn’t stop crying
134 K-pop Live
While Screaming for the “Busan Galmaegi” I too became a Citizen of Busan
162Incheon International Airport
See the Korean Wisdom at the Traditional Korean Cultural Experience Zone for Transit Travelers
168Train Journey Romance in Public Transportation
I tried mandu, eomuk, gimbap, and… dak kkochi at a pojangmacha, and now I can’t forget the taste!
Devotion beyond your imagination, I was humbled by seeing how gochujang is made
198Tour of Traditional Markets
There’s nothing that Moran Market doesn’t have, and here I felt the warmth of Korea
210 16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
I got to know Korean songs through Chu Ga-yeoul, and felt the Korean ‘jeong’ through Shim Su-bong
156Busan's Sajik Baseball Park
Experience the Depth of Seoul in the Small Alleys Between the Tall Buildings
152Korean Popular Music
Spicy jjimdak for Lunch, Healthy heotjesabap for Dinner.
Fine dining from morning till night
Partying at clubs, noraebang, DVDbang, then relaxing at a jjimjilbang
148Exploring the Alleys of Seoul
190Korean Street Food
204Food Culture of Andong-si
Elementary English teacher during week, K-pop fanatic on weekends
140Tour of the Korean Night Life
184Culinary Tour of the Namdo Area 194Native Foods of Korea Sonagi Village in Yangpyeong-gun and the Gwanghalluwon Garden in Namwon-si, Such a Romantic Korea
128Best Place to Propose
Food critic from Hong Kong can’t stop eating Namdo food
Namiseom Island, Manjanggul Cave, East Sea Lighthouse… I came to see Bae Yong-joon, and I’m leaving with Korea in my heart
116Korean Soccer
A spoonful of colorful ingredients, wow!
246 Travel Information
012
| Korea |
013
A Unique Culture Based
on a Long History
Donggureung Royal Tombs ⓒKTO
Dongnamgangnu Pavilion ⓒKTO
Panmunjeom ⓒKTO
Life was discovered in the Korean peninsula about
700,000 years ago, and around BC 2000, Gojoseon, the
first kingdom of Korea was born. As a country of 5000year history, Korea has many diverse cultures and relics,
as well as unique regional specialty products. Due to
its proximity to the capital city of Seoul, Gyeonggi-do
boasts a rich collection of royal heritage sites. Home to
the DMZ, Gangwon-do embraces the pains and sorrows
of a still divided country, and it also has many beautiful
mountains and temples. The Chungcheong-do region
has many hot springs and resting areas, and the Jeolla-do
region is known as the home of Korea’s tastes and flavors.
The city of Andong, which is the noblemen’s village
visited by Queen Elizabeth II, and the millennial city
of Gyeongju are located in the Gyeongsang-do region,
and the volcanic island of Jejudo has been designated a
UNESCO World Heritage.
Four Seasons,
Four Different Settings
Bulguksa Temple ⓒKTO
Gyeonghwa Station ⓒKTO
Jusanji Pond ⓒKTO
Seonunsa Temple ⓒKTO
Jirisan Mountain ⓒKTO
With four distinct seasons, Korea belongs to the
temperate zone. Therefore depending on when you visit,
a whole different setting will unfold before you. Koreans
like to enjoy the changes of nature by going on trips
every season. Visit Korea and discover the colorful spring
flowers, heart-warming summers, golden autumn leaves
and snow-white winters. These four unique settings will
keep your camera busy the whole time.
014
| Korea |
015
Korean Cuisine
and Regional Specialties
Korea at a Glance
Location
The Korean peninsula is situated
Russia
in the eastern tip of the Asian
continent, and along with China
and Japan is it part of East Asia.
With a total area 222,135 km 2 ,
Korea
China
Japan
중국
South Korea occupies 99,461
k m 2 ( 4 5 % ) , a n d N o r t h K o re a
occupies 122,762 km2 (55%). North Korea is bordered to China along
Baechu kimchi ⓒKTO
Various types of kimchi ⓒKTO
Jeonju traditional bibimbap ⓒKTO
Heukdweji gui (grilled black pork) ⓒKTO
the Amnokgang River (Yule River), and to Russia along the Dumangang
River. South Korea is bordered by the East Sea and the South Sea, which
separates is from Japan, and the Yellow Sea to the west.
To most people, the first thing they think of when they
hear KOREA, is kimchi. The various flavors of the
condiments used, and the hot and spicy gochugaru (Korea
chili powder) are what make this dish so distinct and
popular. The one thing that best describes a country’s
culture is usually its food. Korean food is highly affected
by the country’s geography. Being a peninsula, Korea is
surrounded by the sea on three sides, and the northern
area is highly mountainous. The major ingredients of
Korean food are wild vegetables gathered from the
mountains, fresh seafood caught from the surrounding
waters, and grains grown in the fields. Therefore, by
trying Korean food, you can taste the mountains, the seas,
and the four seasons.
Climate
Korea is located in the northern hemisphere mid-latitude, and belongs to
the temperate zone with four distinct seasons. The average temperature
in spring runs between 15–19
in autumn between 11–19
about -6–7
(59–66 ), in summer around 30
(86 ),
(52–66 ), and in winter the temperature is
(21–45 ).
History
The prehistoric age of Korea began 700,000 years ago, and with the inflow
of the Bronze Age in BC 2000, the first Korean kingdom of Gojoseon was
created. Gojoseon ended in BC 108 and was followed by the Early State,
the Three Kingdoms Era, the Unified Silla Kingdom, and the Goryeo
Dynasty. In the late 14th century, after the fall of Goryeo Dynasty, the
Joseon Dynasty rule the nation for 500 years, and between 1910 to 1945,
Japan invaded Korea and thus was under Japanese rule. After gaining
freedom from Japan in 1945 the Republic of Korea was formed, but in
1950, the Korean War broke out and the country was divided.
Gojoseon–Early State
(BC 2000–AD 180)
Prehistoric Era
(700,000 years
ago–BC 2000)
Unified Silla Kingdom
(676–935)
Three Kingdoms Era
(BC 108–AD 676)
Joseon Dynasty
(1392–1910)
Goryeo Dynasty
(918–1392)
Republic of Korea
(1945–)
Japanese Rule
(1910–1945)
Nature
of Korea
016
017
Kathleen Stephens
Davide Macullo
Peter Walshaw
Bicycle Riding in Seoul
Jeju Olle Trail
Walking on Seoul's Namsan Mountain
–
–
–
Roger Allan Shepherd
Michael Eschenbach
Leigh MacArthur
Hiking the Baekdudaegan
Hiking in Geojedo Island
Photo Journey of Korea
Mountain Range
–
–
–
Martin Sutherland
Muroya Madoka
Fujii Takashi
Migratory Bird Habitats in Korea
Tour of Ulleungdo Island
Busan  Seoul Bicycle Tour
Mountains, Oceans & Roads
Jirisan Mountain ⓒRoger Allan Shepherd
018
| Bicycle Riding in Seoul |
019
The celebration of Chuseok has changed since I first came to Korea
many years ago; it no longer feels so connected with rural rhythms and
harvests. It came early this year, and the feel of summer lingers – the
noisy cicadas still buzz, the tree leaves remain green. We can feel in the
cooling breeze and the bluer skies that the season of “high skies and
fat horses” approaches, though, and along with “lots of traffic” Chuseok
remains a time in Korea to gather with family and friends, to prepare
food and gifts. Children will be either adored (the very young) or
admonished (the students preparing for exams) by the entire family. It’s a
great time to be in Korea.
I love the countryside during Chuseok, but like many non-Koreans and
an increasing number of Koreans, I’ve decided I also like staying in Seoul
during Chuseok. The city is largely empty and shuttered, and we can
explore at a more relaxed pace. For those of us who like exploring by
bicycle, Chuseok is one of the best opportunities of the year to ride the
streets and byways of Seoul without the usual crush of traffic.
In front of the Bodogak Hall White Buddha with the Embassy Cycling Team and friends
ⓒTom Underwood
This year the traffic was not as light as we expected, but the weather was
great. Embassy officer Tom Underwood, who spends even more time on
a bicycle (and planning bike trips) than I do, had developed an “Eight
Rivers” tour in the Seoul vicinity he was eager to share with us. So our
Kathleen Stephens
The 8 Streams of Seoul,
and Chuseok
Born in Texas, Kathleen Stephens was the U.S. Ambassador to Korea from September 2008 until November
2011. Her first experience of Korea was back in 1975 as a member of the US Peace Corp. While working as
a Native English Teacher in Chungcheongnam-do’s Yesan Middle School, she passed the Foreign Service
Examination and returned to Korea in 1978 as a Diplomatic Official. ´Shim Eun-gyeong´ is her Korean name
given to her by fellow Peace Corp members and teachers. She is very fluent in Korean, and she was also
regarded as the “US ambassador who best understood Korea.”
020
021
group circled Seoul along a route that included important historical
and ancient transport links, but that can be ridden mostly on purposebuilt bike trails along the streams and rivers.You might not think that it’s
possible – but following the Hangang River and seven of its tributaries
to the north almost closes the loop. In between is the challenging the
Bugak Mountain Highway. Altogether a diverse and challenging 80 km
course! The Eight Rivers are the Hangang River, Changneungcheon
Stream, Sunchangcheon Stream (although very small), Bulgwangcheon
Stream, Hongjecheon Stream, Seongbukcheon Stream, the famous
Cheonggyecheon Stream and Jungnangcheon Stream.
Our first stop was at the ancient stone bridge at Gangmae-dong
(Gangmaeseokgyo). Hard to believe that this was the main road
between Seoul and Pyeongyang-si in Joseon Dynasty! Later, on the
Jungnangcheon Stream, we passed Salgoji Bridge, or arrow-struck bridge,
which used to be the longest stone bridge in Korea. These are treasures
of ancient Korean infrastructure. Too few are still intact.
Sunchangcheon
Stream
Gyeonggi-do
Bulgwangcheon
Stream
The nearby Haengjusanseong Fortress on Deogyangsan Mountain
overlooking the Hangang River was the site of a major Korean victory
against Japanese occupiers in 1593. The Chungjangsa Shrine there
honors General Gwon Yul, who together with Admiral Yi Sun-sin was
largely responsible for the liberation of Joseon Dynasty. We entered a
small theater to watch a film about this historic victory.
Finding lunch on a Chuseok outing can be a challenge! Fortunately, we
came across a wonderful place selling naengmyeon and dwaeji galbi next to
the Five West Tombs of Joseon Dynasty or Seooreung Royal Tomb. You
can get all the way there following the Changneungcheon Stream and
Sunchangcheon Stream. Within 20 minutes of our arrival the place was
full of customers, so we were not the only ones looking!
Cycling Route of the 8 Streams of Seoul
Changneungcheon
Stream
Changuimun Gate ⓒKTO
Bugaksan
Mountain
Seongbukcheon
Stream
Hongjecheon
Stream
Cheonggyecheon
Stream
Seoul
Hangang River
Home
한강
Jungnangcheon
Stream
A short stretch of heavy traffic, two more streams with bike lanes,
past the wonderful architectural trio of the Goryeo White Buddha,
Hongjimun Gate (홍지문), and Changuimun Gate (창의문) and we started
climbing.
I keep Montana close to my heart and I live for the mountains, but
Bugaksan Mountain is a workout, even on my new mountain bike. At
the top we were rewarded by this stunning view of Seoul, with very clear
visibility. And then it was a straight plunge downhill back to the streams!
Then we moved on to the new bike trail along Seongbukcheon Stream
022
023
to Cheonggyecheon Stream – the stream around which Seoul City
grew. What a transformation! I expect that many readers have enjoyed
strolling along the restored stream with its many attractions. One is
the Cheonggyecheon Museum that celebrates the past, present, and
future of the stream. A 50 meter stretch of recreated shanties over the
Cheonggyecheon Stream offers a sanitized version of the slums that grew
up around the stream during and after the Korean War. The stream was
covered during the 1960s and an elevated highway was constructed over
that in the 1970s. There is a simulated reconstruction of the underground
stream of that period. Finally, visitors see how Cheonggyecheon Stream
was restored through display panels, images and models.
Look Inside!
Major Holidays of Korea: Seollal & Chuseok
Every year over 30,000,000 Koreans head to their hometown. The metropolitan area, where almost half of the
country’s popular is cluttered, quiets down during the holidays. The only reason why the entire country jumps
on the highway to battle the mad traffic is to join the family.
All in all, a good Chuseok. And yes, we even ate songpyeon. A woman at
the White Buddha very kindly offered us her homemade songpyeon when
we rode up.
Crossing the stone bridge in Gangmae-dong ⓒTom Underwood
Korean traditional holiday ⓒKTO
Seollal welcomes the New Year
A Plentiful and Bountiful Chuseok
Traditionally a farming nation, Korea values the
August 15th of the lunar calendar is when the
24 seasonal divisions of the Lunar Calendar.
moon is the biggest and roundest in the year.
On January 1 of the lunar calendar, people say
It was derived from the ancient harvesting
their farewell to the ending year and wish for
day. The most representative food of Chuseok
an abundant coming year. In 1949, the Korean
is songpyeon, a half-moon shaped rice cake.
government declared January 1 of the solar
As Chuseok nears, people make songpyeon
calendar a national holiday. But the tradition
with new harvested rice, and it has been said
of celebrating the lunar New Year did not
that if you make a pretty songpyeon, you’ll
disappear. So in 1989, the Korean government
have a pretty daughter. On the morning of
also declared Seollal, the lunar New Year, a
Chuseok, like Seollal, families pay respect
national holiday and it is celebrated for three
to their ancestors, then share a big meal.
days. On the morning of the lunar New Year,
Some families also go to their parents and
family members gather to pay respect to their
grandparents tombs with deliciously cooked
ancestors. Tteokguk, or rice cake soup, is a
foods. Depending on the region, bull fights,
representative dish of seollal. After the ancestral
carriage fights, and ganggangsullae circle
ritual, they visit family elders and bow to them
dance are performed in Chuseok. Being an
wishing them a long and healthy life, and in
autumn harvesting holiday, Chuseok was
return, the elders give them an allowance called
always about eating well and staying warm,
“sebetdon.”Traditional games and activities of the
so much so that on this days people greeted
holiday include yutnori, kite flying, shuttlecock
each other by saying “no more, no less, let it
game and seesaw.
always be like Chuseok day.”
024
| Hiking the Baekdudaegan Mountain Range |
025
Whilst hiking Korea’s 735 km Baekdudaegan Mountain Range, I ended
up inside one of Jirisan National Park’s shelters. These shelters are often
over-crowded with as much as two hundred other hikers’ that sleep
alongside you. Some of the hikers are not so recreationally fit During the
night, the place understandably becomes a cacophony of snoring, but if
you forget to bring your ear plugs, then you might be lucky enough to
experience the shrieking yelps of an unfit hiker as he suddenly contorts
with violent leg cramps in the black night. As you lay there in the startled
darkness, you hear the cramped hiker rising quickly from his bed-space
only for his head to clash on the low overhanging hard beam of wood
that supports the roof of the shelter, followed by a painful moan that
replaces the shrieking. You try not to laugh along with the two hundred
other men whom are now all sniggering in the mountain night. The
final act is hearing the sound of the ailing hiker fall back to the floor on
top of another hiker/s that causes a chain reaction of jerking and cursing
bodies, as the night shelter lights up with hysterical laughter.
Jirisan Mountain ⓒChoi Jung-chul
Yikes! Bang! What?! Hahaha…
an unforgettable night
at the Jirisan National Park’s Shelters
When not sleeping on ridges, you might sometimes seek shelter in rural
minbaks (country guesthouses). However, arriving in pitch blackness,
over the sounding alarm of village farm dogs is never easy. Knocking
on the door of someone’s country home and then wondering what the
proprietor’s reaction might be at this time of the night is…humorously
Roger Allan Shepherd
Shepherd hiked the whole Baekdudaegan Mountain Range. Shepherd (45) was in the New Zealand Police Department,
and beginning in September of 2007, he hiking the Baekdudaegan Mountain Range in three months. From the foot of
Jirisan Mountain to foot of Seoraksan Mountain, Shepherd hiked and climbed, and hiked again a full 750 km. The reason
was simple. He likes mountains. He said that the mountainside of Korea were as grand and beautiful as New Zealand’s
Tongariro Mountain, where Lord of the Rings was filmed. He sent us a story about his experiences in Jirisan Mountain,
similar to a journal of hike. You can see and feel nature and life of Korea through his writings.
026
027
anticipative. The door opens and you watch as the Korean home owner
almost dies of fright when seeing a white, unkempt feature standing in
his doorway. The door suddenly slams shut before anything can be said.
Ensuring the home owner that you are not a pale gwi-shin (ghost) from the
mountain interior, he slowly opens the door, peering at you from the small
gap and you beam a smile and slight laughter. Once accommodated, you
soon become treated to fine Korean hospitality and friendliness all over
laughter and maekju (beer), and the dogs go back to sleep.
One night I had slept out on a large bench under a village guardian
tree alongside a rural road. At about 5.30a.m. as I lay huddled inside my
sleeping bag; I heard what sounded like a bunch of old ladies having
an argument. They hadn’t spotted me yet, and as I poked my head out
of my bag, sure enough, I saw four old ladies sitting in the bus stop
opposite me. I rolled over and went back to sleep, but the intensity of the
argument amplified. I wondered when the bus might arrive to transport
this strong disagreement elsewhere…and then the thought of ‘why the
hell’ a bus would be servicing this far off part of Korea at this time of
the morning, awoke me proper! I decided to put a stop to this with my
presence. From inside my bag, I let out a loud yawn, followed by some
rolling around. I heard the old ladies suddenly stop arguing and silence
reign. I slowly unzipped my bag. I then rose out of my bag draped only
in my underwear, and slowly but surely stretched and raised my 6 foot
plus hiking frame high into the air. The four sat there gaping at me,
serenely acknowledging that they might be seeing things. I looked at
them rather nonchalantly, scratching my nether region. As the four old
ladies sat their silently, one of them recalled her bi-lingual skills and said
in a rather questionable manner, “Hello?”
Realizing the hilarity of the early morning situation, the other three
burst out laughing, and I too, in my near nakedness, burst out laughing
as well. The arguing stopped, and low and behold an empty bus turned
up at the same time. The bus driver noticing the situation joined in the
laughter as well. The giggling old ladies got on the bus forgetting their
previous argument and we all waved goodbye to each other, beginning
an unforgettable start to all our days in the mountains of Korea.
(Published April 16th, 2010)
Women selling vegetables grown in their own farms ⓒRoger Allan Shepherd
028
029
Look Inside!
The Spine of the Korean Peninsula,
Baekdudaegan Mountain Range
The Baedudaegan Mountain Range refers to the string of mountains that runs down the middle of the peninsula
beginning with Baekdusan Mountain and continues on to Geumgangsan, Seoraksan, Taebaeksan, Sobaeksan
mountains and ends at Jirisan Mountain. As you can tell from the name, the core of the mountain range is
Baekdusan Mountain. Koreans believe that all mountains of Korea were born from Baekdusan Mountain.
Baekdudaegan makes up the “spine” of the Korean peninsula. It stretches for a total of 1,400 km and the ten
major rivers of Korea, including Dumangang, Amnokgang, Hangang and Nakdonggang, are said to source out
from this mountain range.
Seoraksan Mountain ⓒKTO
Seoraksan Mountain ⓒKTO
Baekdudaegan Northern Region
Baekdudaegan Central Region
Baekdudaegan Southern Region
Being a divided nation, the northern
The spine of Korea stretches along
The last stretch of Baekdudaegan
most region that can be reached
the East Sea, and passed southern
ends at Jirisan Mountain. This
from Korea is Gangwon-do. When
Gangwon-do it bends inward
magnificent mountain rises
compared to the human body, it’s
to the southern provinces. The
1,916.88 m above sea level in the
about where the waist would be,
central region of the mountain
southern region of the peninsula.
hence, a much forested region.
range consists of Sobaeksan
Jirisan maintains the Yeongnam
The steep and forested peaks of
(1,439.5 m), Songnisan (1,058.48
and Honam regions of Korea
Seokraksan Mountain (1,707.9 m),
m), Hwangaksan (1,111.4 m),
m o i s t a n d fe r t i l e. Th e a re a s
and the beautiful five peaks of
Sambongsan (1,177 m) and
around Cheonwangbong Peak,
Odaesan Mountain (1,563.4 m) are
Deogyusan (1,614 m) mountains.
the highest in Jirisan Mountain,
the two representative mountains
The ridges of the central region
Nogodan Peak (1,507 m) and
of the province. The northern region
are softer, and less rugged than
Banyabong Peak (1,751 m), is very
of the Baekdudaegan Mountain
the northern region. The many
hilly and rugged. The 300-km-
Range boasts heavenly nature, and
beautiful valleys enriches the eco-
long Jirisan Dulle - gil Trail is
masculine ridges.
system of the central are of Korea.
very popular amongst local and
visiting hikers.
Autumn in Geumgangsan Diamond Mountains ⓒKTO
030
| Busan  Seoul Bicycle Tour |
031
548 km bike ride from Busan to Seoul,
thank you for the helmet-ful of
Korean love
with the words “Busan
Seoul” written on it. I had prepared for
myself a construction workers’ helmet for people whom I’ll meet to
write messages on it. In addition, the rest of the items I carried included
a map (in Korean), a few additional sets of clothes to change into, a
raincoat, and a camera.
18 Apr (Sun) I arrived at Busan Port. I had my breakfast at Jagalchi Market
and started off from there. The traffic rules here was different from Japan,
so I felt a little lost in the beginning, whereby I had to get used to cars
driving on the right-hand-side. Since I was a foreigner, I had a hard
time reading the names of places in Korean. I am poor with directions,
so I got lost from time to time, which wasted a fair bit of my time and
energy. I stayed at Miryang-si that night.
19 Apr (Mon) I started off for Daegu. Since this was a country road, I
didn't have to worry about getting lost. I was cycling enjoyably along
a long row of Cherry Blossom trees lining the road. Going uphill
was tough but going downhill was refreshing particularly for cyclists.
Eventually I stopped at a temple dedicated to Bhaisajyaguru (The
Medicine Buddha), and I prayed for safety on the road. The ginseng
chicken soup that I had for lunch was fantastic! I stayed in Daegu that
night.
20 Apr (Tue) I was so hungry that I could not move, so I ate a full
breakfast. Seeing that I was on a bicycle tour, the cafeteria stall owner
gave me some extra meat at no extra cost, and gave me some homemade plum juice to drink whenever I got tired. Many people have given
me directions this time round. The girl at S-OIL also gave me a cup of
coffee. The taxi and bus drivers, road construction workers, and passerbys
Encouraging words written on the helmet I wore throughout the whole trip ⓒFujii Takashi
I’m a 54 year old Japanese engaged in outdoor activities based on the
concept of “Creating memories of our lifetime!”. This time round, I
went for a bicycle tour from Busan to Seoul. The total riding distance
is 548 km, including additional distances cycled from getting lost and
sightseeing.
17 Apr (Sat) To take the ferry to Busan, I cycled around 80 km from my
home to Shimonoseki. I had a cardboard box strapped to my bicycle
Fujii Takashi 藤井孝司
Born 1956 in Japan, Takashi is a judge and consultant for the Japanese ISO. He wants to “make memories
of life” by enjoying the great outdoors. He has climbed mountains in Japan as well as Korea including
Seoraksan, Hallasan, Bukhansan, Sobaeksan, Geumjeongsan, Manisan mountains, and many more. In the
spring of 2010, he rode his bike from Busan to Seoul, for a total of 548 km including getting lost a few times
and stopping over for sightseeing. He sent us his diary of his week-long bicycle journey.
032
033
cheered me on with the Korean-style cheer “Fighting!”. A policeman
called out “Ajeossi! (“Uncle” in Korean)” to me and stopped me for
police questioning. ~(^^). All these encounters and verbal exchanges have
made my journey enjoyable by many folds. I stayed over at Mungyeongsi that night.
21 Apr (Wed) Today I started off for Chungju-si. It was a one-lane road so
I didn’t have to worry about losing my way, so I was relaxed. The Cherry
Blossoms were in full bloom so it was really refreshing as I cycled. Since I
was there, I stopped at the Suanbo Spa to wash my sweat away. Although it
was just a short while more before I reached Chungju-si, I had a punctured
tire. I asked around for people to guide me to the petrol station, bike shop,
bicycle shop, and I had my tire replaced. Finally, my journey can continue. I
stayed at a motel near the bicycle shop that night.
22 Apr (Thu) Distance-wise, it won’t be long before I arrive in Seoul.
However, I was scheduled to meet my friends on the evening of the
following day so I decided to take my time as I walked. I went for a walk
at Lotte World, and cycled slowly as I shopped. I stayed at a yeogwan (hotel)
in Oksu-dong that night.
23 Apr (Fri) It was the last day of my bicycle tour. Today I set off for the
heart of the city. I stopped by a park that had a bronze statue and reliefs
carved with words declaring independence. My heart ached towards
the sad history of Korea under the Japanese empire. I arrived at Seoul
Station at noon. I decided to make this my last stop. I met up with my
old friends in the evening, and my 7 day tour ended there. Although this
tour lasted just a few days, it had created lifelong memories for me. I now
keep the helmet that contained messages from everybody as my treasure.
Look Inside!
A Fantastic Riding Course,
the 4 Rivers Cross Country Cycling Road
As the cycling population in Korea is growing, the number of cycling roads is also growing. In the spring of 2012,
the 1,757-km-long Four Rivers Cross Country Cycling Road (riverguide.go.kr) was developed as part of the Four
Major Rivers Restoration Project. The cross-country road runs along Hanggang, Geumgang, Yeongsangang and
Nakdonggang rivers and each riverside offers a unique view and atmosphere. Here I introduce the five major
courses of the Four Rivers Cross Country Cycling Road.
Hangang River Cycling Track ⓒKTO
Yeongsangang River ⓒKTO
➊ Hangang River Cycling Road
(Seoul)
➌ Geumgang River Course
➎ Nakdonggang River Course
This 146-km-long course from
This is a hardcore, 389-km winding
This 56 km course starts at the Ara
the Geumgang River Estuar y
course from the Nakdonggang
Hangang Floodgate and ends at
to the Daecheong Dam takes
Estuar y to the Andong Dam.
the Paldangdaegyo Bridge. Because
about 10 hours to complete.
From the Bakjingogae section in
it runs through downtown Seoul,
The golden reflection of the sun
Gyeongsangnam-do Province, you
it is easily accessible and ideal for a
on Baengmagang River seen
can see the entire Nakdonggang
quick ride anytime.
from atop Busosan Mountain is
River.
Estimated time 3 hours 40 minutes
magnificent. Passed Daecheong
Estimated time 25 hours 55 minutes
(Published August 27th, 2010)
Dam is Daecheongho Lake, which
Fujii Takashi's Tour Itinerary
➋ Hangang River Course
has a where you can also ride your
This 136 k m course includes
bike.
the 56 km of the Hangang River
Estimated time 9 hours 40 minutes
➊ ➋
Cycling Road and continues from
Oksu-dong, Seoul (Apr. 22)•
Arrive at Seoul Station (Apr. 23)
Chungju (Apr. 21)
Mungyeong (Apr. 20)
Korea
Daegu (Apr. 19)
Busan (Apr. 18)
Japan
Depart Shimonoseki (Apr. 17)
the Paldangdaegyo Bridge to
➍ Yeongsangang River Course
the Chungju Dam. The highlight
This is a 133-km course from
of the Hangang River Course
Yeongsangang Estuary to the
is Bukhangang River Railroad
Damyang Dam. You can enjoy the cool
section, which runs along a
breeze and refreshing scent of trees in
460-m-long discontinued railway.
the Metasequoia-lined Road.
Estimated time 9 hours
Estimated time 8 hours 50 minutes
➌
➍
➎
034
| Jeju Olle Trail |
035
And Olle begins!
I returned to Jejudo Island in August, arriving from working in dynamic
Seoul. My eyes were opened to Olle. I made my way across this incredible
network of footpaths and trails and with each sunrise, becoming more
enchanted with its dazzling landscape.
I received a precious gift from this earth,
I feel 10 Years Younger
thanks to the Olle trail
339 km of passion, a triumphant success and a testament to a people that
are open to the world, looking at life with widened eyes and that never
tire of continued renaissance.
Baksugijeong Cliifs ⓒShin Byeong-mun
Jejudo Island. Island of Delight.
From afar, a form;
Closer, a collection of many things…
From within, a world!
On arrival to Jejudo Island, the metamorphosis begins; roots sprout from
the feet, anchoring to the ancestral land and arms become the wings with
which to navigate dreams; the senses are saturated, stimulated, dancing
with curiosity. One is immediately made to feel part of this ancient,
bewitching world and welcomed by its people, who live in the midst of its
Arts. What matters here is the serene vision of reality, a reality that wants
to understand the power and striking beauty of its imposing Nature.
It has been the sensibility, enthusiasm and sheer tenacity of enlightened
minds that have made it all possible. Olle’s genesis stems from the sunny
Suh Myung-sook, who everyone should have the chance to meet once,
perhaps as I did along its meandering paths.
With sparkling inventiveness and wonderful childlike liveliness, in just
three years she has stitched together extraordinary pieces of places and
offers them now to us as a true gift from the earth.
It is she who has reawakened the word ‘Olle’, which in local dialect
refers to the path between the street and one’s doorstep; it is an emotive
threshold space that lies between the precious intimacy of home and the
genuine need to feel part of society. The ‘Olleans’ have managed to retain
this meaning and its intrinsic value while amplifying and opening up
these spaces and places to the world.
In this era of mass individualism where one tends to travel more than
staying put, Olle is a refreshing marvel of those who understand the value
and sense of sharing and of reconnecting people with nature. Once inside
Davide Macullo
Born 1965 in Switzerland. Macullo is a world-famous architect whose works have been exhibited in more
than 10 countries. He has received many awards and recognitions including the top 15 architects of the
world in 2010. His works in Korea include the Leeum Samsung Museum of Art and the Clubhouse at Jeju
Phoenix Island. In April of 2011, he was invited to the Seoul National University for a special lecture. For
more information on the architect or a list of his works visit his website (macullo.com).
036
037
Oreum ⓒJTO
Jusangjeolli Cliff ⓒJTO
this wonderland, the uplifted spirit is embraced into a welcoming ancestral
nest, like a bird creating a home about its feathered body, knowing it will
return to familiar ground after the migration.
Olle in a day:
Everything and anything can happen in a day and I had time to taste just
an unforgettable flavour of some of its 16 trails:
Listening to the touching stories about the island’s famous pearl
diving women on the 7th trail, from genteel ladies watching over their
grandchildren playing in the training pool; chatting with the fisherman;
admiring the initiative of the people that opened charming guesthouses
and B&Bs along the breathtaking coastline; spending the entire afternoon
with Dong-soon, a friendly Golden Retriever that had escaped its
enclosure to guide her new companions.
-relaxing in the calm atmosphere of the Seaes Hotel along the 8th trial
and passing the off-the-beaten-track luxury resorts of the Shilla Jeju and
Hyatt Regency Jeju, set in their fragrant forests and wet by the crashing
waves of the sea; meditating in front of a magical view down over the
volcanic rocks and out to the horizon; tentatively tasting the infinite
variety of delightful rejuvenating dishes with newly made friends, sharing
the only wizened fan in the world’s best smallest beachside kitchen in
order to dry off the sweat of the long day’s walk; from there just a short
walk to the fish café to watch the world go by from the ocean terrace
of this deceptively simple teahouse and enjoying exquisite company and
potent potions as guests of one the many well known Seoulites who have
come to escape the pace of city life.
Rape flowers ⓒJTO
Jeju Olle Trail ⓒKTO
Oreum ⓒJTO
-walking across the green hills along the 10th trial, admiring the stunning
view to the furthest island of Korea that tells the history of the first
western people who came to live in this beautiful land; rummaging at
the Moseulpo Port Market where tasting the fresh delights and delicacies
of the smiling merchants enchants the senses; leaving the temple below
and walking up the carefully tended, (seemingly infinite!) flight of steps
at Sanbangsan Mountain, to reach Buddha’s rocky cave, carved out of the
imposing mountain.
And more; walking along salty sandy beaches, beautiful volcanic
landscapes and woods nestled in dreamy hills; passing the dedicated young
boys pushing their fully clad girlfriends, dressed for an evening out, on
floating sunbeds in the sea; visiting art museums, learning about Korean
history in ethnographic villages, collecting souvenirs at the local markets
and… horse riding, playing golf, boating, fishing, praying, singing and
meeting great people.
Without really having understood why, I left convinced that I became 10
years younger.
Here, emerging from deep within the crust, the stacked masses of volcanic
rock express the primeval tensions that created the earth. The glistening
waves of the sea and the wispy folds in the sky channel the imagination to
distant lands, to be tracked by curious minds.
The atmosphere is dense with an extraordinary energy and the majesty of the
landscape teaches us about the respect and humility of people who know that
harmony in nature is not replicable and that man too is part of its universe.
I was led to rediscover the roots of the tree of my childhood garden, my
Mediterranean-Alpine oasis. I discovered a single root that stretches the globe,
binding mine with the great tree of Jejudo Island.
038
039
This lesson has stayed with me since my first trip here twenty years ago,
and deeply influenced my life. I felt at home here, within the sensibilities
of Korean culture, where nature holds its powerful force, even when
placed by the gardener or portrayed by the painter.
Since then, I have reinforced the idea that my own buildings should be an
extension of the senses of those who inhabit them.
Look Inside!
Jeju Olle Trail,
a journey to the inside of Jejudo Island
The current trend in Korea is walking tours. And the start of that trend was the Jeju Olle Trails. Instead of relying on the
And that is what Olle is.
A natural organism, alive and intuitive, one that becomes the extension of
the senses. It is like having a long nose, enormous ears, eyes that see 3D, a
huge mouth and the longest limbs for the strongest embrace.
No instructions needed. Just like for oneself, it is enough to know you exist.
Life can change while walking.
Experiencing Olle recalls the landscapes occupied by the young Taesuk. In the film ‘3 Iron’ by Kim Ki-duk, the quiet protagonist Tae-suk
sneaks into empty houses, not unlike the architect steals into his projects.
He lives clandestinely and carries out domestic chores to cover his stay.
That is until, when coming across a house he had believed to be deserted,
he meets Sun-hwa, a beautiful but mistreated wife. The woman secretly
observes this strange tenant who moves about the house and between
them they try to find a way to both belong. For Tae-suk, there begins a
whole new journey in search of new spaces to occupy.
Perhaps Tae-suk asks if the charm and beauty of finding the right living
spaces offers a way in which to find a true existence?
four wheels of the car, let your two feet discover the stories hidden in the winding trails. Become one with nature and
the more you walk, the closer you will be to the inside. "Olle” is the Jejudo Island dialect for alley or street.
Follow the Jeju Olle Trail and circle the entire
island
Olle is representative walking trail of walking
Dombenanggol, which was dubbed the
that takes you through the entire island. It is a
garden of the gods; the splashing waves of
trail solely made for walkers, and you can walk
the ocean and the parting sea of Seogeondo
for as long as you want. In September 2007,
Island, these are just a few sites of nature.
Course 1, which started in Siheung Elementary
School to Gwangchigi Beach in East Jejudo
People Who Help You Walk
Island, and as of October 2012, there are a
There is an Olle Information Desk at the Jeju
total of 25 courses that circle the entire island.
Int’l Airport. A local volunteer helps you walk
the trial by providing any and all information
you may need. From which course you should
Olle Passport
walk, to where you should sleep and eat, and
One course is about 15 to 18 km, and takes
boat schedules, phone numbers, etc. ask them
at least four hours to complete. Although it
anything you need to know
may seem a bit long, the beautiful view of the
[Jeju Olle] Web jejuolle.org Tel Service Bureau 064-
ocean, and unique villages of the island will
762-2190
ease all the pain and fatigue. A cute souvenir
is the Olle Passport, which provides useful
information of each course, and when you
The simplicity of living Olle calms the spirit.
Beauty is enough.
Seeing is forgetting and forgetting frees the mind.
For a brief moment, these thoughts can make a man feel he is at the
centre of the world. (Published October 29th, 2010)
18-1
complete the course, you receive a stamp of
12
movies. The lush sea pines of Oedolgae Rock;
11
03
04
14-1
07-1
10
been featured in various Korean dramas and
02
Jejudo Island
Hallasan National Park
14
13
Port offers beautiful view of the beachside
and ports. A number of sites in Course 7 have
17
15
Most Famous, Course 7
21
01
18
16
01-1
20
19
completion.
The course from Oedolgae Rock to Wolpyeong
Jeju Int’l Airport
09
10-1
08
07
06
05
040
| Hiking in Geojedo Island |
041
I’m from the United States, and I grew up in New England, where
hiking is a joyous adventure shared by all generations. Before coming to
Korea I was often too busy to spend any real time hiking. I had all but
left it to youthful memories.
My passion for hiking was rekindled when I came here three years ago
to teach at an Uber Genius kindergarten on Geojedo Island. Everywhere
you look in Korea there are splendid mountainous ridges whose sharp
silhouettes are a beautiful contrast to the green slopes and sunny skies.
These ridges called to me.
Originally, I would hike in the traditional manner of going up, enjoying
a snack with my view, and hiking back down again. But, more and more,
I wanted to this awesome experience to continue.
Over time, I developed enough knowledge of the paths and trails
through the ridges on Geojedo Island that I was able to hike many hours
a day. I often would spend the whole day on various trails, coming out of
the woods just before dark. How thrilling it has been to trek along these
peaceful trails past waterfalls, wildlife, rock face sculptures, wildflowers
and ancestral graves. On these long treks, all my senses would become
pleasantly exhausted.
My obsession to stay out longer grew to a point where I kept searching
my maps for ways to put many trails together and maximize my time.
In this spirit, the Geoje Ridgeline Trail (G. R. T) was born. I founded
a trail that runs along a nearly continuous ridgeline. It combines three
established hiking ridgelines that run from central Jangpyeong-dong, up
over Gyeryongsan Mountain clear down to the southernmost summit of
Mangsan Mountain. The total distance of this trail is 30 km (19 miles.)
The Geoje Sanmaru-gil Road that I made,
you will be
shocked
Michael Eschenbach
Born 1966 in the United States. He majored in film, and art collaboration, and has
worked as English teacher at the Uber Genius English School in Geojedo Island since
2007. He loves nature and enjoys exploring the unexplored. He enjoy hiking and
rock climbing in Korea.
Daesobyeongdaedo Island ⓒGeoje-si
042
043
The trail extends high up to where only the crows fly, and it brings the
hiker a deep life perspective over five of the most prominent peaks on
Geojedo Island. The highest peak, Garasan Mountain, offers views of
Japan on clear days. In addition, it also runs past three fortress sites, two
historical temple sites and one substantial ruin from the Historic Park of
Geoje POW Camp located here during the Korean War.
You can get aerial-like views of all major natural attractions on Geojedo
Island: Samsung Shipping Industry, Haegeumgang Island of Geoje, Oedo
Botania, Dongbaekseom Island, Windy Hill and Sinseondae Cliff film
sites. You also see four of the island’s most beautiful beaches at different
times during the hike.
The first time I attempted the G.R.T., I did it from South to North,
and a friend walked with me in the rain up to the Mangsan Mountain
summit at the Southern end. My friend advised me to wait for a better
day to begin, but I was committed to do this trek end-to-end and turn
my research and idea into reality. Donning full rain gear, I bid him
farewell and left the wet and windy summit into the comfort of the
darkened woods. I had 5 km to hike to get to where I wanted to camp
for the first night. I was carrying much more gear than my normal hikes
and that slowed me down a bit as I crossed over the first five peaks of the
trail. I finally settled in the woods under some trees. The rains came five
times that night, as I camped beneath tarp, but I managed to keep most
of my gear from getting too wet. It was a bit unusual not to be home
in a dry bed after a full day of hiking ridges, but I worked through my
longing for home by planning out the next day.
By headlamp I glanced over my map and discovered that by going from
South to North I was essentially going uphill most of the way, and
that really nagged at me during the first part of the next day. The short
connecting trail between Mangsan Mountain and the highest peak of
Garasan Mountain turned out to be much tougher and longer with 45
pounds on my back. I had serious doubts about finishing the trail, and
thought about giving up and trying it another day, but I thought about
how far I had come and decided to continue.
I’ve since found that the second day of this hike is when you have to
do the lion’s share of the work, so it is wise to assess how you’re doing
physically and mentally.
Windy Hill in Geojedo Island is a popular filming location ⓒGeoje-si
044
045
After a snack and some water, I pushed on. It was Chuseok weekend and
not many hikers were out. I did run into a mother and daughter, who
offered me rice drink and traditional rice cakes. I heartedly accepted; it
was great to eat food I didn’t have to carry, and to share time on Chuseok
with them.
I covered more than 10 km that day, mostly uphill and carrying a lot of
weight, but it was exhilarating, and the weather was brilliant. The storm
clouds from the day before had blow away, revealing all of Geojedo Island’s
natural beauty. Every labored step I took was rewarded with breathtaking
views. I met a few more families also enjoying the day, but essentially I was
alone with all this grand Korean landscape. The G. R. T. was as great as I
thought it would be, and I couldn’t wait to share it with others.
After getting home, I wrote up a guide for the trail and made suggestions
on how to accomplish it easily from both directions. I wanted to get
the word out to Korean and international hikers and make this become
a must-do hike in Korea. I have hiked Hallasan Mountain, Jirisan
Mountain, and many more of the higher peaks in Korea, but the G. R.
T., with its constant views of the sea and the challenge of hiking so many
peaks in so little time, is thrilling mentally and physically. True hikers and
outdoor enthusiasts will love it. It took a week to fully recover from the
physical demand on my body but, two weeks later, I did it again, and
only in Korea have I know this pure hiking joy. (Published December 10th, 2010)
Look Inside!
Every walker’s paradise, trail ways of Korea
I first started my walking journey in 2007 at the Jeju Olle Trail. There are many beautiful and scenic walking trials
in this country. Restored old trails, mountain trails like the ones in Bukhansan and Jirisan mountains, and the
600-km-long trail along the East Sea are trail built in recent years. On weekends, people walk and search for a
new walking trail, and yet there are still many more hidden trails in Korea.
Jirisan Dulle-gil Road
Gangneung Bau-gil Road
First opened in April of 2008, as of May 2012,
Along with the Jeju Olle Trail and the Jirisan
the entire road has been opened to the public.
Dulle-gil Road, Gangneung-si’s Bau-gil Road
The Jirisan Dulle-gil goes around the entire
makes up the “Top 3 trails of Korea.” The 350
foot of Jirisan Mountain, which is Korea’s
km trail is divided in 19 courses, and goes
largest mountain, and the first mountain to
around Gangneung-si. The courses include:
become a national park. This 274-km-long
walk ing the old Daegwallyeong Road,
road is divided into 20 courses. This road is a
trekking along Seonjaryeong Ridge, walking
road of life, of self-reflection and pilgrimage. It
along Gyeongpoho Lake, strolling the beaches
is a journey of responsibility and a journey of
of the East Sea, and more.
fairness.
Web baugil.org
Web trail.or.kr
Bukhansan Dulle-gil Road
The Bukhansan Dulle-gil Road is a representative
trail of Seoul visited by more 10 million hikers
every year. The 77-km trail circles Bukhansan
National Park and Dobongsan Mountain.
The trail extends high up to where only the crows fly,
and it brings the hiker a deep life perspective over five of the most
prominent peaks on Geojedo Island.
Being the first mountain trail in Korea, it has
been restored and renewed to become the
eco-friendly trail that it is today. Each of the
21 course have a different theme and level of
difficulty, so make sure to choose the one that
suits you best.
Web ecotour.knps.or.kr/dulegil
Remains of the Geojedo POW Camp ⓒMichael Eschenbach
046
| Migratory Bird Habitats in Korea |
047
I was mesmerized by the sight of
migratory birds I saw in
Suncheonman Bay, Haenam
In different months and in different seasons, the Korean landscape changes its
colour and mood. Even though it is beautiful scenery, the different birds in
the different habitats greatly enhance the beauty for me.
It was in January 1999 when I embraced the icy, cold wind of Korea for
the first time, visiting the homeland of my wife. My relationship with
Korea since then has been growing stronger and stronger because of
Korea’s unique natural beauty.
I have been fascinated by birds since I was a little boy and I have spent all
my life watching them in various places in the world. That’s why I was
so excited to come to Korea, finding new birds; especially endemic far
eastern species.
I started our trip at the Imjingang River and headed south along
the western coast. This took us to areas such as Ganghwado Island,
Gyeonggiman Bay, Namyangman Bay, Asanman Bay, Seosan-si and
the Geumgang River estuary. From here we crossed to Haenam-gun,
Suncheonman Bay on the south coast.
Martin Sutherland
Born 1954 in London, Sutherland is an ecology research specialist. He married a Korean woman and
together have a 10-year-old daughter. He is especially passionate about birds, and he traveled around the
world as the leader of bird-watching tours. In London, he worked as the manager of a bird sanctuary, and a
preservation center. He is currently collecting data for an environmental effects evaluation, and is studying
the ecology of birds. Since his first visit to Korea in 1999 after getting married, he has returned many times
with friends and for bird-watching.
Flock of Spectacled teals in Geumgang River ⓒKTO
048
049
I watched birds for a long time like I was nailed in one place. Huge
numbers of waterfowl migrate to Korea for winter, to the vast areas of
tidal flats and coastal lakes and rivers. The numbers of birds here are
truly impressive with thousands of geese flying overhead and countless
ducks including huge numbers of Baikal teal, looking like smoke from
a distance when in flight. Flocks of dainty little Saunder’s Gulls and, at
one southern bay, a few relict gulls. At a dried river bed several painted
snipe: one of the first winter records in Korea. Azure-winged magpies
perching on branches in the early morning sun is another image fixed in
my memory.…. I was absorbed with watching them.
As you know, Korea has many great areas for birding and its wetlands are
of international importance for migrant shorebirds, which depend on the
west coast mud flats for feeding up on their long and hard migrations,
and for wintering wildfowl.
All these birds draw me back to Korea regularly. In different months and
in different seasons, the Korean landscape changes its colour and mood.
Even though it is beautiful scenery, the different birds in the different
habitats greatly enhance the beauty for me. I hope that this unique
Korean beauty will last for many generations to come because it is an
important asset and will be more so in the future.
After the western coast and southern parts of Korea, I headed up to
Junam Reservoir and across to the Nakdonggang River estuary then up
the east coast via Guryongpo Port and north as far as Gangneung-si and
Sokcho-si where I turned inland heading for Chuncheon-si and then
down to Daegu.
Over the last decade, I have seen birding becoming a new leisure activity
in Korea. There are several bird watching organisations and web sites
where I can view posted photographs of birds sighted. I am delighted
to see that Korean people are beginning to appreciate and enjoy their
natural environment and appreciate what beauty there is there as a
contrast with the extensive industrial and infrastructural developments in
recent years.
I love the eastern coast, so different from the west and south. Every
fishing harbour full of gulls including Glaucous gulls trying to find food
around drying squid fields along the eastern coast, various divers, grebes,
auks and murrelets on the sea. I was so absorbed by the birds here that
my wife was complaining that I came here only for birding. My only
excuse was that this first visit to Korea was too short. I was sorry for her,
who was a real beginner at that time, having to manage the hard going
all day long from dawn to dusk.
Birding was an unusual hobby in Korea all those years ago. Rather than
just being a foreigner, wearing binoculars and wandering around the
edge of wetlands attracted passers-by even more. Some people would
ask what I was up to and expressed curiosity about what they could see
through a telescope. Whenever I said that I was watching birds, most
looked baffled saying “What birds? Are there any birds?” But as soon as
they looked through the telescope, they were amazed with what they
saw, beautiful birds feeding in a mud flat.
Flock of geese in Seosanman Bay ⓒMartin Sutherland
050
051
Wildlife tourism is very common in the UK. Many companies provide
wildlife holidays to areas all over the world. In Asia popular destinations
include India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Bhutan, China, Thailand, Vietnam and
Taiwan and so on. Many of these countries actively promote their
wildlife attractions and eco-tourism in the UK.
I think Korea has great potential (in terms of birds and infrastructure)
to be well able to compete with these countries. With more positive
promotion campaigns abroad, Korea should make more practical and
realistic efforts than now towards the conservation of important habitats
and avian biodiversity. It will be a good example of the “green growth”
which Korea is pursuing. I hope that one day I will receive eco-tourism
travel brochures in the UK showing destination to Korea.
When the icy cold wind returns, I would love to stand where I was
before with my child to greet the winter birds, my old friends. My
daughter often pesters us to visit Korea again. I am as keen on the idea as
she is and especially miss the bird-rich bays and estuaries of the coasts.
(Published July 8th, 2011)
Look Inside!
A Restful Land,
Korea’s Habitat for Migratory Birds
Korea is a peninsula located south of the Siberian Shelf. This is why Korea has become a migratory route for birds,
especially in the winter. In the ice cold days of winter, birds leave Siberia for warmer countries in the south, like
Korea. Many rare birds can be seen Korea during the winter, here are some popular habitats for migratory birds.
Cheonsuman Bay
Suncheonman Bay
Cheonsuman is a large reclamation located in Seosan-
Suncheonman Bay is the must-visit site for eco-
si, Chungcheongnam-do. In 1979, it became a symbol of
tourists. Picture a tall field of reeds with a trail running
economic growth, for reclaiming land and turning it into
through the middle and the glowing sun setting
farmland, but today’s Cheonsuman Bay is more popular
on the back. This is the beauty of Korea’s nature.
as a habitat for birds. 327 species of winter migratory
Suncheonman Bay is one of the very few places
birds were discovered in Cheonsuman, and there are
where hooded cranes have been spotted wintering.
records of more than 600,000 birds seen on a single day.
Photographers and ornithologists from around the
Cheonsuman is especially known for spectacled teals.
world come to Suncheonman Bay for a chance to see
Close to 300,000 Baikal teals have been seen in Korea on
a hooded crane.
a single day, that’s about 90 % of the global population
Web suncheonbay.go.kr
of Baikal teal. Photographers and nature journalists
I watched birds for a long time like I was nailed in one place.
from around the world come to Korea in November to
Cheorwon Plains
photograph the herds of Baikal teals.
The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in Cheorwon-gun,
Web seosanbird.com
Gangwon-do, is where red-crowned cranes and
eagles, both endangered species, winter. Red-
Geumgang Estuary
crowned cranes and eagles standing on snow-
Baikal teals were also spotted in Geumgang Estuary
covered fields is a site easily seen in Cheorwon-gun.
in Gunsan-si, Jeollabuk-do. As the winter days get
Located within the civilian passage control line, they
colder, by December the Baikal teals fly further south
have strict entrance rules. Prior notice must be given
to the Geumgang River, and finally all the way south to
to the military base. Cheorwon-gun operates a bird-
Yeongamho Lake in Haenam-gun, or to Junam Reservoir
watching bus from December to February.
in Changwon-si. The high waters of the Geumgang
Web tour.cwg.go.kr
River and the lush fields of reeds are an ideal habitat for
migratory birds. The city of Gunsan built a bird watching
facility in the estuary in 2003, and hosts a migratory bird
festival every year.
Web gmbo.kr
Hooded cranes in Suncheonman Bay ⓒKTO
052
| Walking on Seoul's Namsan Mountain |
053
A life spent falling in love with
the four seasons
of Namsan Mountain,
a life already 21 years old
I joined Hyatt International in 1983 and worked in Dubai and New
Zealand for 8 years as a general manager. After that I was transferred to
Grand Hyatt Seoul in March, 1991. Although I had visited Asia before, I
had been to Korea only once. Since then, I have grown increasingly close
to Korea over the years. I can say there are many reasons that I love Korea
but in particular I enjoy the passion of its people, the outstanding Korean
food, and my life blood and source of rejuvenation, Namsan Mountain.
When I travel the world, I always head to the local observatory located
in the heart of the city, first. By standing on the observation deck, I
can recognize my location and attain a feel for the city’s layout and
atmosphere through the observatory’s panoramic view.
When I arrived in Korea I was immediately surprised by the number of
mountains. In the case of Seoul, the Hangang River passes through the
N Seoul Tower ⓒKTO
Peter Walshaw
Born 1952. Walshaw first entered Hyatt International in 1983. He started as the general manager of the
Hyatt Regency in New Zealand, then moved to the Hyatt Regency Dubai, then to the Hyatt Regency
Auckland, and in 1991 came to the Hyatt Regency Seoul. In 1994 he was the Hyatt International “Manager
of the Year.” As of 2012, he is the vice president of the North Asia region of Hyatt Hotels Corporation, and
general manager of the Grand Hyatt Seoul and three other Hyatt hotels in Korea and two in Micronesia.
054
055
center of the city and is surrounded by mountains, so nature and the urban
environment here, both live in an exquisite harmony. Namsan Mountain is
located only 265 m above sea level, so it doesn’t seem that high. But when
I first hiked to the top of the mountain, a dramatic, scenic panorama came
into view that I hadn’t expected. Namsan Mountain itself is the greatest
observation point for the city, and N Seoul Tower, perched on its summit,
is the perfect place to take in the entirety of Seoul. From there, you can
have an unobstructed, 365 degree view of the city.
I hiked Namsan Mountain for the first time in March 1991 although at
that time there was only limited access to the mountain as most of the
area was closed off to the public. Since then walking paths and parks have
been added which has made it an ideal place for recreation and walking
in a wonderful, natural and peaceful environment.
I love Namsan Mountain as much as anyone and I feel very lucky to live
in such a nice environment. I often think “what can we do for Namsan
Mountain?” Hyatt International has annually held a special event and
campaign called ‘Staff Day’. We are always engaged in Namsan Mountain
preservation programs. Every year 200 employees walk to the top of
Namsan Mountain to clean the grounds. A few years ago we replaced the
steel structures supporting the trees and planted new trees.
Namsan Mountain is changing day by day. Namsan Mountain has
become a resting place for people in Seoul with its well-maintained trails,
wild roses, lush trees and other amenities. There are an ever increasing
number of people who take walks or go trekking. I usually enjoy hiking
the mountain from Grand Hyatt Seoul to N Seoul Tower, as the hotel is
directly connected via a bridge to the wildflowers park. Going along the
red asphalt road, I can often spot rabbits and pheasants in the wildflower
park. There are constantly visible changes of the season at Namsan
Mountain all the time, such as the cherry blossoms in the Spring, the
autumn leaves in fall and the beauty of nature year round. After hiking
around the mountain, I can quench my thirst with a drink of water from
the natural, mineral-water spring, which is an excellent relief to both
physical and mental stress. When I’m standing at the top of N Seoul
Tower with a cool wind at my back, I always marvel at the spectacular
skyline of the city.
Going to the opposite side of N Seoul Tower, I can see the north
circular road leading to the castle road. I can smell the scent of lilacs and
cherry blossoms in spring and hear the sound of rippling water, filled
with the sounds of the lush forest in summer. In the fall, the autumn
leaves turn into a palette of red, yellow and green colors. There is this
beautiful road with different colors every season, with some of the most
impressive scenery I have ever witnessed. The castle road can present you
with a perspective of Korean history and culture. I especially enjoy the
panoramic views from the castle road overlook, with its views of the city
of Seoul. A little further away, you can discover the Namsangol Hanok
Village and Chungmuro station. It takes about 3 hours. That’s not an easy
walk, but well worth the effort. A few years ago I used to take walks with
my dog. When I reached Chungmuro station, I would have to take a taxi
home because the dog was exhausted.
If someone asks me what my favorite
Korean food is, since I have been living
in Korea for 20 years, I definitely say that
I love doenjang jjigae and sticky rice.
Doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew) ⓒPeter Walshaw
056
057
After I go on a hike, I always have doenjang jjigae (된장찌개). If someone
asks me what my favorite Korean food is, since I have been living in
Korea for 20 years, I definitely say that I love doenjang jjigae and sticky
rice. I usually order it for lunch or dinner when I eat Korean food or
BBQ. The bean paste smells really wonderful in doenjang jjigae. When I
taste just a bit, I can distinguish between homemade doenjang jjigae and
the supermarket versions. What I order from the menus reflects just how
much I know about Korean Culture.
Look Inside!
Namsan Dulle-gil Road
& Seoul Fortress Wall Road
Only about 260 m above sea level, Namsan Mountain has two pleasant walking trails: the quiet Dulle-gil Road that
hugs Namsan Mountain, and the Seoul Fortress Wall Road, which trails along Seoul Fortress. As you walk the trails of
I would say that the greatest attraction of my profession has been the
opportunity to travel the world, meet different people and experience
their culture. From the day I first arrived in Korea, I was attracted to the
country, even to this date. Korea has become a second home to me. My
life and source of rejuvenation, Namsan Mountain, means a lot to me. By
going to Namsan Mountain, I can look at Seoul’s history and culture, as
well as its rapid growth and transition. I still hike Namsan Mountain and
drink in its energy, every day I am in Korea. (Published October 14th, 2011)
Namsan Mountain, you will find yourself immersed in the generosity and energy of this beautiful mountain.
Seoul Fortress Wall ⓒLee Gang-deok
Namsan Dulle-gil Road
Centered on N Seoul Tower, this is road circles
circling Hanyang. The fortress wall runs along
the mountain. In 2011 the entire Namsan
the ridgelines of Bugaksan, Inwangsan and
Mountain became car-free, which meant that
Namsan mountains, and through the reigns
all driving roads became pedestrian walkways.
of Kings Sejong and Yeongjo, the wall got
There are 15 entrance ways to Dulle-gil Road,
stronger and tougher. This 600 year old
among them, the Myeong-dong Station
fortress wall was heavily damaged during the
(Subway Line 4) entrance by the Namsan
Japanese Rule, but parts of it still remain and
Public Library, and the Dongguk Univ. Station
have been restored. The Namsan Mountain
(Subway Line 3) entrance by the National
zone on the south, starts at Sungnyemun
Theater of Korea are the most crowded. A
Gate and continues to Baekbeom Plaza
bus runs through the section between the
Jung-geun Memorial Hall
Namsan Public Library and the National
Photo Island
Theater of Korea, but that is the only section
Tower
that allows vehicles. The Namsan Dulle-gil is
of Korea
7.6 km long and it takes about 2.5 hours to
about 3 hours to reach the peak and come
complete.
down. If you go back to the Dongdaemun
Palgakjeong Pavilion
Pine Tree Trail
Ahn
Jamdubong Peak
N Seoul
National Theater
Jangchung Gymnasium. It takes
direction from Namsan Mountain, going
N Seoul Tower is located in the heart of a colorful city ⓒvisitseoul.net
Seoul Fortress Wall Road
around the Seoul Fortress Wall Road, you can
Founder of the Joseon Dynasty, King Taejo
see National Treasure No. 8, as well as 168
built the capital in Hanyang, today’s Seoul.
cultural heritage sites.
And in 1396 he built an 18 km fortress wall
058
| Photo Journey of Korea |
059
The intoxicating
orange light
from the rising sun,
I had fallen in love with the East Coast
The cool breeze is sweeping in off of the water. The symphony of
the sea's waves lap up to the shore, coupled with the various sea birds'
singing to greet the morning's light is a truly peaceful time. The climax
of the sun breaking the horizon is both haunting and empowering. Land
of the Morning Calm you say? I for one concur.
I love to travel. When I first came to Korea, one of the first things I did
was to buy a camera. I wanted to document the history and culture of
Korea during this wonderful chance that I had. When the time came, I
realized that one year was not long enough. I needed more time. After
all, I hadn't even been outside of Seoul's city limits. I couldn't believe
how big a city Seoul was, and how easy it was to spend an entire year in
the city, until I realized I had spent 2 full years without having ventured
outside the green #2 subway loop.
Leigh MacArthur
Born 1974 in Canada. MacArthur has been teaching English in Korea since 2003. He
currently lives in Samcheok-si, and since 2007, he’s been teaching photography. He
has a number of photos that were featured in magazines in Korea and abroad, and
a few works have received international recognition. He is an active member of the
Seoul, Korea City Hall Circle of photographers. You can see photos by MacArthur at
his website (leighmacarthur.com).
Sunrise over the East Sea ⓒLeigh MacArthur
Yet, I was hooked. The amount of history, culture, and wonderful
welcoming people that one can experience within walking distance of
any line #2 subway station is amazing. Something was missing. I didn't
want my entire Korean experience to be a Seoul experience. I knew
there was more to the country. So I garnered up enough courage to leave
the comfortable English confines of the big city and explore. At the same
time, I was attempting to teach myself a new set of skills, in photography.
My quest of learning the craft of photography has since taken me all
over the country, exploring, trying to find those once in a lifetime shots.
In my travels, I have met a lot of great people. It's the people that make
a country great. It's the people that you remember about a place. It's
the people that make you remember events like they were yesterday.
I remember my first day in Korea like it happened last week, it really
happened just over 8 years ago. It's the people that make me want to
photograph this wonderful country in all its wonder and grandeur to
show off to the world, and to prove to myself that Seoul alone is not
Korea, and Korea is not only Seoul. It was suggested that with all of my
travels around the country that I could write about and share my favorite
places that I have photographed. I thought to myself, "Well, that's going
to be easy. I have such great memories of so many of my trips that I
could easily fill a book's worth of material." Oops, how wrong I was.
060
061
For this article, I wanted to choose one place and give to it what it
deserves: a well thought out, detailed story and explanation of why I love
this area of Korea. When I started to think about which place it could be,
there were just too many...
Gyeongju-si. Check. Busan's Haeundae. Check. Seoraksan Mountain.
Check. Gangneung's Gyeongpodae Pavilion and Jeongdongjin. Check
and check. There have been a lot of festivals, too. I could fill an entire
article listing the festivals alone.
The green tea festival in Boseong-gun... It was raining and foggy,
and underestimating the popularity of the event, my accommodations
were far from pristine, so for me, it was a perfect recipe to be a
disaster, and make me miserable. I did manage to accomplish two
things. First, I was lucky enough to capture, one of my all time
favorite photographs.
Second, Boseong-gun managed to become one of my favorite places
in all of Korea. It was refreshing just to be there. I felt healthier just
being there. I wanted to come here every chance I got. I still do.
Boseong-gun is one of those places that is popular all year round except
maybe in winter, (luckily for me) with Koreans and foreigners alike.
One of my goals is to share the lesser known areas of the country.
I live in a city called Samcheok-si. Samcheok-si, is known for 2 things,
really. One... the caves. Hwanseongul Cave is the largest limestone cave
in Asia. Considering the size of Asia, and the number of mountains
and caves in Asia, it is an impressive title to have. All in all, there are
about 55 caves located within Samcheok-si's city limits, giving it the
nickname "Cave City". The second thing that Samcheok-si is known for
is Haesindang Park, or as it's lovingly known in some foreigner circles as
"Penis Park". Haesindang Park really has become quite popular, not only
with tourists but with travel and lifestyle magazines all over the world,
as 2 European magazines have contacted me personally about using my
photos of the park, and I'm sure there are a lot of other photographers
who have come and had their photographs published as well. Those are
great places, and very much worth a 3-4 day vacation, to come to see.
For me, they were the selling points, they got me out here, those two
and remembering the strange looking trees that lined the main street.
That was 4 years ago. It's the little things that has kept me here, and
has secured my desire to stay and share Samcheok-si with the world.
Samcheok-si has probably one of the widest varieties of scenery and
weather in the world all within a 20 km radius. You can experience
spring, summer, autumn, winter, sun, snow, rain, typhoons, thunderstorms,
rainbows. There are sandy beaches between rocky shores on one side,
and mountains, streams, waterfalls, caves, and farmland on the other side.
Deer, boars, and the occasional cow running around free, not to mention
This br ings me to Gangwon-do. After 4 years of living and
working in Seoul, I felt it time for a change. That need for change
led me to remember a time when I had visited Sokcho-si and
how relaxing the morning was, as I sat on the boardwalk in Daepo
Port, with my coffee, watching the fishing boats return with their
catches. Earlier that morning, I had been watching the sunr ise
from Sokcho Beach, and the power of that first blast of orange
light was intoxicating.
I had to land a job on the east coast. It really didn't matter where, it just had to
be on the east coast. I love it here.This is my home.This is why I love Korea.
Chuam Beach ⓒLeigh MacArthur
062
063
the sheer number of birds that call this area home, as well as the number
of birds that stop here for a break while migrating.
Look Inside!
Living here coupled with my enjoyment of photography has given me a
much greater appreciation for nature. I can't think of many other places
where if I turn left going out of my front door I could be at the seashore
in 5 minutes, or if I decide to turn right, I'd be in the mountain forests
looking at a waterfall in those same 5 minutes. This is why I love Korea.
This brings me to the people. As I stated earlier, it is the people that
make the biggest impressions in our daily lives. The people here have
been unbelievable. There have been many times that I have forgotten that
I'm a foreigner and a visible minority. Even though I can, after 8 years,
barely string a sentence together in Korean, I am treated like family.
This is why I love Korea. One day last year, there was a rather amazing
rainbow in the sky as the local baseball team that I play with was having
practice. One of my teammates asked me what I was looking at.
Leigh’s Favorite Places to Take Landscape Photos
I said while pointing to the sky "That rainbow."
He looked up for about 2 seconds and said "Oh."
The landscape of Korea changes with the seasons. Flowers bloom, grass gets greener, tree leaves redden and
snow piles. And then again, flowers bloom. The ever changing phases of nature whisper an unforgettable story
to its viewers. Leigh MacArthur’s camera captured the beautiful landscape of Korea.
Chuam ⓒKTO
He said nonchalantly, "This is Samcheok-si. We get rainbows all the
time."
A coastal cliff, clean and clear
fields of winter, and the sprouting
of crystal clean water sourcing
waters of the East Sea, and
green leaves of spring create
from Dutasan Mountain trickles
sparkly white sand is what make
a picture perfect scene for the
down unique rock formations and
Chuam Beach special. The pointy
camera.
mossy rocks. The sparkly clear
Chotdaebawi Rock, literally
Address 1288-1 Bongsan-ri, Boseong-
waters flowing through Mureung
eup, Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do
Valley keep shutters busy. This is a
spot amongst photographers.
Every morning, a long line of
photographers stand on the
shore waiting for their chance to
capture the glowing sun rising
over Chotdaebawi Rock.
Address 26 Chotdaebawi-gil, Donghae-
This is why I love Korea. He's right. Because of all of the geographical
features, and weather patterns, Samcheok-si does seem to get an
abnormal amount of rainbows.
si, Gangwon-do Web gangwon.to
Daehan Dawon Tea Plantation
Tea trees draw an outline along
the foot of the mountain. Daehan
Every single one, that I've seen, has blown me away. Personally, I have
always associated rainbows with special places. This is definitely one of
those special places.
This is why I love Korea. (Published October 28th, 2011)
Boseong Tea Farm ⓒKTO
Chuam Beach
Candlestick Rock, is a favorite
I said, excitedly waving my hands in an arching motion, "Look at that,
it's huge!"
Mureung Valley ⓒKTO
Dawon, the countr y ’s largest
green tea plantation is located
Web dhdawon.com
Gyeongju Rapeseed Flowers
In the millennial city of Gyeongju,
even spring makes a dramatic
entrance. Silla’s Banwolseong
Fortress is covered in bright yellow
rapeseed flowers. The beautiful site
of pink cherry blossoms filling the
air above bright yellow rapeseed
flowers can only be seen for about
2 weeks in mid-April guide.
Address 387-1 Inwang-dong, Gyeongjusi, Gyeongsangbuk-do Web gyeongju.
go.kr
in Boseong-gun, Jeollanam-do
Province. Lush green tea fields
Mureung Valley
show off their gentle beauty all
This valley re s e m b l e s China’s
year round. The snow-covered
Mureungdowon Paradise. A stream
true photographer’s paradise.
Address 859 Samhwa-dong, Donghae-si,
Gangwon-do Web dhtour.go.kr
064
| Tour of Ulleungdo Island |
065
When you’ve missed the last boat,
that’s when you get to see
the generosity of Ulleungdo Island
Which is the most impressive place in your trip to Korea? During the
three and a half years I have lived in Korea, I am always asked the above
question when I say my hobby is travelling, and my answer is “Ulleungdo
Island”. Ulleungdo Island is a well known island but not many people
have actually been there. A boat trip from Pohang-si in Gyeongsangbukdo Province for about three hours gets you there. Ulleungdo Island is the
9th largest island in Korea.
I came to know about the charm of this island in cold winter, 2002.
During my language study in Korea, I came to join “Ulleungdo camp” as
the only foreigner among 60 other Korean students after I learned about
the camp from a bulletin board at the university. Departing from Seoul
in the middle of night, I felt like I was a dead person when I arrived on
the island after changing buses and boats for one and a half days. But the
landscape before me blew away such exhaustion. The island seemed to
remain naturally pristine and wild as if time had stopped, which made all
of us fascinated. I was overwhelmed by the grandeur of nature, looking
at the sunrise from Seonginbong Peak, which becomes a silvery universe
covered in white snow. I was impressed by the color and size of the fiery
sunset walking along the beach.
Muroya Madoka 室谷圆
Ulleungdo Island ⓒKTO
Born 1981 in Japan, Madoka Muroya studied International Development in college and researched the
regional cultures of Korea. Her first visit to Korea was in 2002 for a 6-month language learning program.
She returned to Japan with unpleasant mixed feelings and unpleasant experiences of Korea, but in 2008,
she came back to further study the cultural exchange between Korea and Japan. She has worked at the
Busan International Film Festival and the Korea-Japan Festival, and as of 2012, is in charge of the Japanese
website of the Global U-tourism Team of the Korea Tourism Organization.
066
067
8 years later, I came to work in Korea and visited this island again on
the tour for Koreans with my Japanese girlfriend during my leave at
work. In 8 years, there has been a bit of change such as a few more stores
occupying the center of the island and improved transportation to tourist
attractions but time was passing ever so slowly and nature has remained
the same as before. The changing colors of leaves was in full swing so the
mountains were ablaze with many different colors and we could enjoy
clean fresh air to our satisfaction.
One day, we stopped by a restaurant operated by an old couple and there
were already some islanders. We decided to go to another restaurant
as there were no spaces left but people squeezed, squashed and offered
us seats. Although it was tight and crowded I felt like being in a family
gathering.Young ladies in the crowd proposed Ulleungdo Island’s famous
pumpkin makgeolli: a fermented alcoholic rice drink and we toasted
together. We could enjoy a delicious meal surrounded by a warm and
friendly atmosphere as if we were with our old friends.
Ulleungdo Island’s beautiful landscape is well known to Koreans and
we could meet a lot of tourists everywhere. We often met middleaged tourists on a group tour laughing and talking loudly wherever
we went. It is quite natural that many people gather in nice places
but I felt too much noise without considering others was a bit
unpleasant. Once I lined up for a rest room, but a couple of people
from a group cut in before me, which made my eyebrows go up.
It seemed that they had their company in front but I was not very
pleasant because they never asked for my understanding. For everyone
to have a pleasant trip, I felt that thoughtful conderation about others
and keeping orders are essential.
Snow covered winter in Ulleungdo Island ⓒMuroya Madoka
I was overwhelmed by the grandeur of nature, looking
at the sunrise from Seonginbong Peak, which becomes
a silvery universe covered in white snow.
068
069
I think the joy of a travel is a pleasant happening involving others at an
unknown place. However, when I was told that the boat could not depart
from Ulleungdo Island, I began to regret the trip and reflected upon my
life, fearing that I would not be able to leave the island. Nonetheless this
gave me a chance to know more about Ulleungdo Island and to make
friends with the owner of the lodging place who gave us a discount
on the room rate of our extended stay. I think I felt a real affection
which you can find only in Korea by drinking together and sharing
love stories with women staying at the same lodging at night. I would
like to continue my travelling in Korea in future in the search of a new
encounter and to share such experiences with many people.
Look Inside!
Ulleungdo’s neighboring island, Dokdo
“200-ri southeast of Ulleungdo Island, is a lonely island home to migratory birds.” This is a song that almost
every Korean will know. "Dokdo Island is Our Land." Dokdo Island is the easternmost territory of Korea, and on a
clear day, it’s visible from Ulleungdo Island.
(Published January 27th, 2012)
Dokdo Island ⓒKTO
Dokdo Island, a Treasure Trove of Island
Ecology
Dokdo Island is a volcanic island composed of
of King Sejong), written in 1454, that Dokdo
Dong-do (East Isle) and Seo-do (West Isle), and
is Korean territory. Also in 1900, during the
89 rock islets. It has a total area of 187,554 m ,
Korean Empire, officials declared that Dokdo
and it is a nature preservation area designated
Island is Korean territory. And finally in
as Natural Monument No. 336 of Korea. It
1948, with the establishment of the Korean
has a mild maritime climate with average
government, Dokdo Island was given the
annual temperatures of 12 ℃. On a clear day
official address of “1 Do-dong, Nam-myeon,
it can be seen from Ulleungdo Island, and as
Ulleung-gun, Gyeongsangbuk-do.”
2
a migratory route of birds, fork-tailed petrels,
black-tailed gulls, kestrels, Chinese egrets and
How to Tour Dokdo Island
a number of other birds can be seen on the
The tour of Dokdo Island begins in Ulleungdo
island. Over 60 different types of plants and
Island. It takes about two hours from
more 130 species of insects make up Dokdo
Ulleunghang Port to Dokdo Island, and a boat
Islands’ ecosystem.
with a capacity of 400 passengers runs from
Ulleungdo Island to Dokdo Island many times
Ulleungdo Island ⓒMuroya Madoka
Dokdo Island in History
throughout the day. Due to the unstable
It was first introduced in Korean history
maritime climate, about half the time the port
in AD 512, when Silla’s General Isabu
is closed. But, on clear days, the sounds of
conquered the island, which was formerly
seagulls, the emerald green waters, the rocky
the autonomous nation of Usanguk. It is
island and much more will draw a picture in
recorded in the Sejong Sillok (Royal Annals
your eyes that will never be erased.
Heritage
of Korea
070
071
Onrie Kompan
Marco Ienna
General Yi Sun-sin
Taekwondo
–
–
Tony Wheeler
G. Santhasiri
Panmunjeom & the DMZ
Templestay
–
–
Mary Jane Liddicoat
Kogure Makoto
Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul
The Gi (energy) Experience of
Palgongsan Mountain
Tr a d i t i o n & H i s t o r y
Jeonju Hanok Village ⓒShin Byeong-mun
072
| General Yi Sun-sin |
073
General!
I get very emotional seeing you standing in the
middle of Seoul with a big sword
Bronze statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin in Gwanghwamun Plaza ⓒKTO
A few years ago, I was introduced to the KBS drama THE IMMORTAL
YI SUN-SIN. After watching it, I was so inspired that I wanted to share
this story with everyone I knew.
However, the TV show was very difficult to find in the US and a lot of
people I knew found it very hard to follow. And so I set off to retell Yi
Sun-sin’s story as a comic book so that people could pick it up easily.
I chose to do this as a comic book because I had a life long passion for
working in this medium. American comics are known for stories that
have a strong emphasis on super heroes. However, within the last 10-15
years, the industry has evolved and different genres have become more
popular within the medium.
In light of stories such as Frank Miller’s 300, I decided that the American
audience may find Yi Sun-sin’s story to be interesting if it was presented
to them in an entertaining way.
I knew that if I was going to do this that it had to be done right. I
needed the best artists that the industry had to offer. But before that, I
needed to do a ton of research.
Korea has always been a fantastical place for me. I had visited once before
when I studied taekwondo in 2000 and really enjoyed it. I finally went
back 8 years later and am now planning by third trip.
When I first began researching YI SUN-SIN: WARRIOR AND
DEFENDER, I knew that I would eventually have to journey there in
order to learn more about the country and its national hero.
For two years, I had very vivid dreams of one day standing before the
famous statue of Yi Sun-sin in Seoul and actually stepping inside an
actual turtle ship. I was anxious to learn more about where Admiral Yi
came from and how he lived his life.
Two long years went by and my dream finally came true. It took me
about six months to figure out the most essential things I needed to see
on my trip. The Korean Tourism Organization in Chicago helped me
work out all of the logistics. I couldn’t even believe that this was all really
happening. Even though I was traveling alone, I was very excited to
finally enter the world I had spent years reading about.
In just 14 days, I traveled to almost every essential destination in Korea
pertaining to Yi Sun-sin, as well as other essential moments in Korean
history. I visited Seoul, Jinhae-si, Asan-si, Jinju-si, Busan, Andong-si, and
finally returned back to Seoul.
I stood on top of a huge mountain in Yeosu-si overlooking the entire
village thinking of what life was like in this very place 400+ years ago.
I wondered the same thing as I stood under the Sebyeonggwan Hall
(the very place where the Korean Navy trained during the Imjin WarJapanese Invasion of Korea in 1592).
I was there. In the moment. Absorbed by total peace and tranquility.
I breathed nothing but fresh mountain air in the Soraksan Mountain.
Smelled the wheat harvest in Yeosu-si. It took me no time at all to truly
put myself in the shoes of my case study. It was amazing!
Onrie Kompan
Onrie Kompan (26) is a young man from the U.S. who was deeply touched by the
General Yi Sun-sin. He wrote a 12 volume comic book about the life of General
Yi, and for that he came to Korea for 14 days. He said he’s writing this comic book
because he believes General Yi is a true hero. He says he’s willing to go anywhere if it
is related to the General.
074
075
Every crevice of Korea had something fresh and unique to offer. Whether
it was watching the sunrise in the port town of Jinhae-si, marveling at
the beauty of the of the Bulguksa Temple, or feeling the strong Siberian
winds as they beat down on Sokcho-si. It was all very thrilling!
Seoul is by far one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever visited in my life.
It is so much cleaner than Chicago yet jam-packed with kiosks and food
stands and gorgeous architecture that is known only to Korea.
Every time I visit this Korea, it leaves me breathless and wanting more. I
was there for only 14 days but could have easily stayed much longer.
Nothing was more rewarding though than actually standing before the
Yi Sun-sin statue in Seoul.
When I first saw it, I felt like I had discovered a rare treasure. I’ll never
forget what it was like to finally be standing before it.
I felt the same way as I entered the military base of the Republic of Korea
Navy and saw a large Geobukseon replica docked at the port. As I stepped
inside, I imagined what it was like when soldiers were crammed inside
going off to war under Admiral Yi’s command. It was a dream come true.
While visiting these different villages and living my dreams, I met some
very interesting people including the ancestor of Ryu Seong-ryong (a
political ally of Yi Sun-sin during the Imjin War). I remember having
coffee with him in his home. He had never been to Chicago, which is
where I’m from, but was very familiar with it.
Korea’s people take great pride in their history and culture. They are
what make this wonderful country worth visiting. They have very proper
and respectful etiquette and I have an immense amount of appreciation
for their devotion to native tradition. I’m grateful to them for being so
welcoming to foreigners.
I am forever changed from my frequent visits to Korea. It is a very
charming country filled with so much history and culture and I’m truly
blessed to be able to do venture out and see it.
I now plan to attend the Yi Sun-sin festival this year and am very excited
about it. I will be visiting Korea again in May 2010 in order to celebrate
Yi Sun-sin’s birthday and will have plenty of copies of my book on hand.
The first two chapters of my book will be available for purchase and I’m
really looking forward to sharing it with Korea.
I really hope that they will enjoy it! (Published October 14th, 2010)
Look Inside!
A Journey Following the Life of
Admiral Yi Sun-sin
Along with King Sejong the Great, who invented the Korean alphabet, Admiral Yi Sun-sin (1545—1598) is the
most respected Korean figure. During the Japanese invasion of 1592, he built the turtle-shaped warship called
the Geobukseon, and drove out the enemy, and he also lead the country to many victories. The life of the admiral
continues from Seoul, all the way to Namhae.
Hyeonchungsa Shrine
The house where Yi lived after he
Joseon Dynasty moved in to what
death, November 19 of the lunar
got married and the shrine that
used to be the Admiral’s command
calendar. One of the more popular
preserves Yi’s memorial tables
post. Geobukbawi Rock (Turtle
relic sites of Yi is Jeseungdang
are located here. Hyeonchungsa
Rock) and Janggunbawi Rock
Hall, the naval base during the
Shrine was built in 1706 to
(General’s Rock) can still be seen in
Japanese Invasion of 1592.
commemorate Yi’s significant
Sado Island, an island in the front
Address [Changnyangmyo Shrine] 8 Dang-
contributions to the history of
waters of Yeosu.
dong, Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-
Korea. Every year on April 28,
Ad d re s s [Jinnamgwan Hall(J e o l l a
the day he was born, a memorial
jwasuyeong Shipyard)] 471 Gunja-
ser vice is held in the family
shrine. Inside the museum are the
dong, Yeosu-si, Jeollanam-do, [Sado]
Hwajeong-myeon, Yeosu-si, Jeollanamdo Web ystour.kr
‘Nanjungilgi,’ a war diary he kept
Myeongjeong-dong, Tongyeong-si,
Gyeongsangnam-do, [Yi Sun-sin Park]
683 Jeongnyang-dong, Tongyeongsi, Gyeongsangnam-do, [Jeseungdang
H a l l ] Ye o m h o - r i , H a n s a n - mye o n ,
Tongyeong-si, Gyeongsangnam-do
for 7 years during the Japanese
Tongyeong
Invasion of 1592 (Imjin War), the
To n g y e o n g - s i i s w h e r e t h e
sword, the blueprints for the
Admiral’s achievements shone
Geobukseon battleship, and more.
the brightest. The Admiral died
Address 100 Baegam-ri, Yeomchi-eup,
in 1598 during the naval battle of
Asan-si, Chungcheongnam-do
Noryang. The very next year, the
Web hcs.go.kr
do, [Chungnyeolsa Shrine] 213
grieving people of Tongyeong-
Yeosu
si built a thatch-roof shrine called
In 1591, the Admiral was appointed
Changnyangmyo Tomb to honor
Jeollajwado Sugunjeoldosa,
his patriotism. Also in Tongyeong-
commander-in-chief of the
si is the Yi Sun-sin Park, which
western Jeolla area, to Yeosu-
houses a large bronze statue of
si. Here he began to build his
the Admiral, and Chungnyeolsa
famous Geobukseon battleship,
Shrine, which has the Admiral’s
and trained his army. In later years,
relics, and where memorial rites
Jinnamgwan Hall, the naval base of
are still held on the date of his
Web utour.go.kr
Hadong-Sancheong Baeguijang
gun-ro (Admiral Yi Sun-sin’s Historical
Path of fight in a war as an enlisted man)
In 1597, Yi was falsely accused and
removed from his post. According to
records in ‘Nanjungilgi’ (War Diaries
of Yi Sun-sin), he walked an 18 km
hiking trail from Hadong-gun to
Sancheong-gun while serving in the
war as a common soldier. You can
follow the trail and feel the Admiral’s
compassion for his country.
Address Danseong-myeon, Sancheonggun, Gyeongsangnam-do
076
| Panmunjeom & the DMZ |
077
Ah, so heart breaking!
Only a few steps separate
the south to the north
Some places in the world you only see from one side. You look in one
direction or the other, up or down, east or west, but never in both
direction. So from North Korea you can look south or from South
Korea look north, not many people can try both views. I’ve been very
fortunate to gaze across the DMZ in both directions. I’ve travelled down
to the DMZ from Pyongyang and looked across to the south, and up to
the DMZ from Seoul and looked across to the north.
Many years of intensive travel have taken me to many other strange
borders and dividing lines. In 1972 I crossed the border from Pakistan to
India, the conflict between the two countries which led to the birth of
Bangladesh had ended less than 12 months earlier and relations between
the two countries were still raw. In 1972 the border was only open for
three hours a week. Nearly 40 years later the frontier still closes down
every night. It’s very far from being an open border.
In 1991 with a German friend I bicycled along the route of the Berlin
Wall, it was already often difficult to trace the path of the barrier which
had divided East Germany from West Germany less than 24 months
earlier.Yet only months before the wall came down the division between
the two Germanys had seemed indestructible. My German friends
underlined that even the day before the separation came to an end it
seemed like it could go on forever.
In Panmunjeom, where both South Korea and North Korea exist (South Korea to the left, North Korea to the right) ⓒTony Wheeler
Tony Wheeler
Born 1946 in London, Tony Wheeler is the founder of Lonely Planet. In 1972, him
and his wife, Maureen Wheeler set off on a year-long Asia overland trip. With on 27
cents left at the end of the trip, the two decide to publish their travel diaries into the
Lonely Planet. Over the years, the book reached yearly sales of over 7 million copies,
that’s 25% of the industry, and has become every traveler’s bible. The couple still
spends over half of the year traveling.
Panmunjeom ⓒKTO
078
079
I had Berlin very much in my mind when I travelled up to the DMZ
from Seoul. This is an artificial border I thought, the people on both sides
are essentially the same, they speak the same language, until very recently
they shared the same history. Throughout my travels to the north of
the DMZ I could not help feeling that I was on a movie set, that what
I was seeing and experiencing was not reality. I felt like I was visiting a
Hollywood movie version of reality, not a place in the real world.
That surreal existence reaches the height of unreality at the DMZ.
The reality, you keep thinking, is that the two cities are just 200 km
apart. Surely that division cannot be so decisive and yet at the same
time so artificial? The alternative reality is that the two Koreas are a
world apart, but that’s not a reality I believe in. One day the DMZ will
simply disappear and a few years later – just like the Berlin Wall which
disappeared so comprehensively that it was hard to even trace where it
used to stand – it will be hard to believe it ever existed. (Published June 18th, 2010)
Panmunjeom ⓒKTO
Look Inside!
Rediscovery of the DMZ
The Korean War ended in 1953 with the signing of an armistice. A 900 km2 DMZ (Demilitarized Zone), 2 km
north and south of the ceasefire line, was created on both North and South Korea. Ironically, this area which
is completely closed off is a haven of rare animals and plants. In recent years, the DMZ has become an area of
interest in terms of ecology, research and tourism.
Hwajinpo Lake ⓒKTO
Hantangang River ⓒKTO
Panmunjeom, Proof of a Divided Nation
DMZ, a Natural Ecological Treasure Trove
Korea is the only divided country in the world,
The DMZ divided the Korean peninsula into the
and the Panmunjeom has become a symbol of
North and South. The western section belongs
division. It is located in Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do, within
to Gyeonggi-do and the eastern section is part
military boundaries, and is the only place where
of Gangwon-do. The Gyeonggi-do section of
South-North talks are held. Before the Korean
the DMZ crosses Gimpo-si, Goyang-si, Paju-si
War, it was a small rural area, but since the truce
and Yeoncheon-gun, and takes less than 2 hours
talks on October 25, 1953, it became the center
from Seoul, which is why it is a popular “Security
of attention worldwide. After the signing of an
Tourism” area. You can visit the Dora Observatory,
armistice in 1953, the UN and North Korea officially
which is the closest observatory from North Korea,
declared this area as the JSA (Joint Security Area).
and the 3rd Tunnel, which was dug by the North
The area where the Military Armistice Commission
to invade the South. Gangwon-do is actually
and the UN War Correspondent Center were
divided by the DMZ, and the province has shown
located has been replaced by the Unification
interest in the ecology tourism of DMZ. Trekking
Park, Imjingak Pavilion, which was built to console
tours are becoming highly popular for the red-
the hearts of the displaced people, the Freedom
crowned cranes, black-faced spoonbills, and other
House, and about 10 other buildings. To the west
67 endangered species of birds that have been
of Panmunjeom is Neolmundari Bridge, which
spotted in the Gyeonggi-do section of the DMZ.
is referred to as the “bridge of no return.” In 2011,
In the Cheorwon-gun area of the Gangwon-do
most of the more than 2.33 million foreign tourists
DMZ, ostrich experience centers and other ecology
that visited Gyeonggi-do also visited Panmunjeom.
observation programs are being operated.
080
| Bukchon Hanok Village, Seoul |
081
Jeongdok Public Library, Samcheong Park
and the Asian Art Museum,
a cluster of Seoul Charm
Bukchon Hanok Village ⓒKTO
Mary Jane Liddicoat
Born 1966 in Australia, Mary Jane Liddicoat was posted as head of education to the
Australian Embassy in Korea from 2006 to 2009, and until 2011 was the Asia Pacific
LOHAS Korea Country Head. She is also the founder of the Healthy Homes Asia. She
is married to Korean sculptor Choi Jin-ho (40), who sculpted the 2 haechi statues in
front of the Seoul City Hall. Together they have 3 children, Sam Juhyun (7), Romy (5),
and Lia (2).
I had lived in Seoul for four years before I discovered its hidden charm:
Bukchon Hanok Village, meaning the 'North Village'. I have now lived in
Bukchon Hanok Village for five years and every day I delight in walking
my kids to the local school, weaving through the narrow alleyways
flagged by traditional 'hanok' houses.
082
083
The first is Jeongdok Public Library. Most Saturday mornings, we walk
from our house to visit the tiny children's section on the ground floor,
where our kids borrow as many books as they can about dinosaurs,
insects or rabbits. They love the leafy, open space and grass where they
simply run around and be themselves.
Robert Liddicoat drawing
of Bukchon rooftops
Most of all, they love sitting in the 'wondumak' raised wooden resting hut,
spotting carp in the pond below.
A few afternoons a week, we walk to Samcheong Park. Leafy and
sheltered – and full of wonderful insects to inspect – we take walks, kick
balls around or just watch the kids go crazy on the play equipment.
Finally, although the area is teaming with historically valuable and
downright quirky museums (the owl and the chicken museum for
example), our choice is always the Asian Art Museum. Tucked away on
How could I have missed it? Bukchon Hanok Village is right in the
middle of Seoul between Gyeongbokgung Palace and the Secret Garden
(Changdeokgung Place), just north of the city's traditional arts and crafts
Insa-dong district (where we spent many many hours).
It was actually my father, an Australian painter, who first told me about
this magical area. When I came back for my second posting at the
Australian Embassy in 2006, he demanded I look for a house in the area
so he could paint there (which he did)!
Even my husband, a Korean sculptor, who virtually lived in Insa-dong
knew very little about the magical, secret streets of Bukchon Hanok
Village.
Now we do. Now we know every nook and cranny there is to know!
The only problem is it keeps changing so rapidly that it is hard to keep
track...
Apart from the various coffee shops where I love to sit and relax,
watching the passing parade, as a family, we have three favorite places.
At Bukchon with family ⓒMary Jane Liddicoat
084
085
the highest part of the Gahoe-dong hill, the air and the views here are
spectacular.
Look Inside!
What do we love about this area? The air, the trees, the grass, the art and
culture, the well-loved, well-cared for traditional and new buildings, the
clean streets, the organic food shops...and of course the people.
Bukchon and Seochon
The metropolitan city of Seoul is full of tall skyscrapers. But, if you search a bit deeper, you’ll be able to find the
I was so surprised to find that most English-speakers like me, knew
nothing about Bukchon Hanok Village, that in 2007 I set up a website as
a hobby to let people know about its magic (hanokgirl.net).
historical city of Seoul. Bukchon still preserves the homes of noblemen, and Seochon Village has portraits of the
contemporary and modern Korea.
I even made souvenirs like none I've even found in Korea (including
hanok wall print neck ties!), so that returning tourists could help promote
Seoul's hidden charm.
What is its magic? It's certainly not simply the beautiful old buildings.
Bukchon Hanok Village has a sense of community, a sense of the value of
nature, of art and culture, and a sense of health and well-being.
I always feel privileged to be part of this community. And then I wonder:
if this is possible in Bukchon Hanok Village, why not for all parts of all
cities in Korea? What if all children in Korea could grow up breathing
and running in spaces like this? What spark of inspiration, excitement, joy
or creativity could this ignite, and what could that contribute to Korea's
future?
I have a strong sense that Korea is moving quickly in this direction and
that we will start seeing more communities like Bukchon Hanok Village
in the future. It only takes people to choose it.
As for new visitors to Seoul, I always tell them: start at Bukchon Hanok
Village. And they're never disappointed. (Published October 15th, 2010)
Bukchon Hanok Village ⓒKTO
Seochon ⓒSMW
Bukchon
Seochon
Bukchon refers to the residential area including
Along with the popularity of Bukchon, Seochon
and surrounding the Bukchon Hanok Village,
is also becoming a popular attraction. It is
near Jongno and Cheonggyecheon Stream.
separated from Bukchon by Gyeongbokgung
Being located between Gyeongbokgung and
Palace. During the Joseon Dynasty, doctors,
Changdeokgung palaces, it was a village of
inspectors and other professionals lived here,
loyalty and noblemen of the Joseon Dynasty.
but in modern times, artists like painter Lee
With the population rise of Seoul in the
Jung-seop, poet Yun Dong-joo and Lee Sang
1930s, about 800 houses were built in the
resided in Seochon. Unlike the traditional
alleys of Bukchon. With the modernization
tile roof houses of Bukchon, Seochon has a
of the city, many hanoks, traditional Korean
more mixed collection of houses including
houses, were removed, but Bukchon has,
modernized hanoks of the 1910s, Japanese-
and still preserves tradition. Houses numbers
style hanok of the Japanese colonial times,
11 and 31 to 33 in Gahoe-dong have been
single and multiplex houses. You can see the
especially well preserved. Unique features of
transformation of Seoul through the small and
the village include the cozy cafes and galleries
clustered alleys of Seochon. In recent years,
of Samcheongdong- gil Road, Jungang
art museum and galleries, and art groups have
H igh School, where the Korean drama
moved into the village.
Winter Sonata was filmed, on Gyedong-gil
Address Sajik-dong & Hyoja-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Road, and stonewall and tile roof houses of
Web tour.jongno.go.kr
Changdeokgung-gil Road.
Address Gye-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Web bukchon.
jongno.go.kr
086
| Taekwondo |
087
Taekwondo is
a friend of 20 years,
and now I’m a Korean at heart
For me, Korea is the land of the master, the “fatherland”.
I started dreaming of going to Korea, which is the birthplace of
taekwondo, when I was a child and began studying this martial art.
I think that going to taekwondo’s homeland is also the dream of
everyone who does this martial art everywhere in the world. They dream
of touching Korean soil, like a Muslim who dreams of going to Mecca.
The first time I entered a taekwondo School (dojang) in my hometown
of Rome, I was only seven years old. I entered the facility holding my
father's hand, with no idea of how important that event would be for my
future. When I put on the white training clothes (dobok) for the first time
and the white belt, I didn't even know that taekwondo was a Korean
martial art. I started doing it just for fun.
I enjoyed the fighting with the other kids my age. I found there was
something magic in studying the basic techniques that are the “forms”. It
gave me the desire to study the more advanced techniques.
Over time, I continued to go deeper into this martial art, and I began
to understand the historical and philosophical significance of the
techniques. I had this urge to know more about Taekwando, which
became every more mysterious and fascinating to me.
I started to read books about Korea that were occasionally available at
the Korean embassy.
I discovered that Korea was three times smaller than Italy. To me, the
country seemed lost in a far corner of faraway East Asia.
Taekwondo pumsae (form) ⓒMarco Ienna
Marco Ienna
Born 1984 in Rome, Italy. Ienna started taekwondo when he was in the 3rd grade.
In 2006, he was the first foreigner to enter Kyung Hee University as a taekwondo
major, and in 2010 he was the first foreigner to graduate Kyung Hee University with
a taekwondo degree. He is the honorary ambassador for Kyung Hee University, an
assistant professor at the International Taekwondo Association, and he represents
Kang’s Taekwondo Namchang Dojang.
088
089
I was amazed that such a small country situated in the Far East could
become the leader in introducing taekwondo to the world. Today there
are 200 countries in the WTF (World Taekwondo Federation), and 70
million people make up the big family of taekwondo practitioners.
When I finished high school I persuaded my parents to let me go to
Korea. I departed with enthusiasm and full of expectations.
On May 6, 2005 I got off the airplane at a foggy Inchon airport and inhaled
the air of Korea. It was not as strange as I had imagined it would be. In fact,
as I breathed in the air I had a sense of knowing familiarity. I didn't think so
much about how and where I would start on my path; rather, I thought only
about my simple goal, which made me forget all else: I would study the roots
of taekwondo. This goal brought me to Kyung Hee University (which in
1983 introduced taekwondo as an official university department in Korea).
But my lack of Korean language skills was a barrier to reaching my goal.
I understood that it was necessary to learn Korean to take an important
step toward achieving my goal. I took an eight-month immersion course
in the language. My diligent study allowed me to get closer to Korean
society. I got to know the people, and I was able to practice and learn the
grammar, sounds and vocabulary. My hard work paid off. I was able to pass
the entrance examinations for the taekwondo department at Kyung Hee
University. I was the first foreigner to do so.
In Italy I had studied taekwondo only from a technical point of view.
But I felt happy and full of anticipation in thinking that in Korea I could
practice taekwondo in all its facets, at a professional organization that
combined study with a scientific understanding of the techniques.
The four-year period I spent at the university was one of the most
intense and important times of my life. From the first year I was able to
Taekwondo has developed in tandem with the
Flying kick ⓒMarco Ienna
historical events that have shaped the country of
Korea.
enter the fight group. This experience allowed me not only to learn the
competitive techniques, but also, thanks to the links that develop among
the students who have studied taekwondo for a long time, to get to
know the long history and the profound cultural effect that taekwondo
has had on the tradition of Koreans and in their cultural norms.
Taekwondo became an official Olympic sport in 2000 and has spread
throughout the world. Even outside of official competition, many
foreigners are attracted by the wide range of demonstration programmes
both outside Korea and in the country. Many people, and not just those
who practice the sport, are starting to appreciate it.
Taekwondo has developed in tandem with the historical events that have
shaped the country of Korea. The white dobok training uniform represents
the soul of the Korean people. All the terms used to designate the various
techniques are names drawn from historical events. This gives taekwondo
the role of a spokesperson for the language, history and sprit of Korea.
Taekwondo also brings in a lot of tourists to the country. But that's not
all. In fact, the foreigners who practice taekwondo undertake a kind of
devotion to Korea. They love all things Korean. From kimchi, which is
always present in Korean food, to hanbok, the traditional colourful clothing
with light lines; from the typical landscape of valleys rich with mountains
and water, to the traditional houses with their typical tile roofs.
The philosophy of taekwondo is the same as the one that the
founder Dangun gave to his people in 2333 B.C. His message was the
illumination of the entire world. In fact, taekwondo is not simply a
physical exercise. It is a discipline through which one can obtain mental
and physical health, enabling each individual to find the courage and
strength to fight injustice and to become a leader by example. As a leader,
the individual works to build a model society.
Unfortunately, the important role that this martial art has taken on in the
rest of the world is not very well known back in Korea.
In fact, in the taekwondo Schools there has been a kind of regression: they
have been transformed into a sort of playground for children. The reason
for this is that the Korean government has not been active in promoting
taekwondo and in adopting solutions to protect and develop this martial art.
Recently there has been an increase in taekwando programmes for
foreigners, including demonstrations of taekwondo in front of the
090
091
Gyeonghuigung Palace, and the establishment of the ITA (International
Taekwondo Academy) by the WTF in cooperation with the KTF
(Korean Taekwondo Foundation). The ITA was created to allow all
countries to send representatives to Korea free of charge. The purpose is
for practitioners to learn more about taekwondo and Korean culture. It
also provides an incentive for an exchange of ideas and to create a better
world not only for martial arts but for the countries involved. The WTF
and the KTF cooperate on projects to design and develop international
programmes and competitions. This year again, the two organizations have
offered many programmes: ITA (in the taekwondo department at Kyung
Hee University in Suwon-si), the youth field in the taekwondo park in
Muju-gun, along with international competitions: Korea Open (Gumisi), Gyeongsangnam-do Open (Jinju-si), Chuncheon Open (Chuncheonsi), courses for instructors organized by Kukkiwon, etc. These events act as
an incentive for the flow of foreigners who visit Korea. In the Namchung
Dojang training facility in Suwon-si, where I often go, athletes from Italy,
America, China, Austria, Australia and England can be seen.
I believe that a university in Italy should establish a taekwondo department.
This would give a rapid development to the sport in Italy, not only in
terms of studying the technique, but also, and in particular, for spreading the
cultural heritage that is part and parcel of this martial art. I have therefore
decided to stay and study in Korea until I have received a doctorate in
this field. For an in-depth training in this field you must also have a deep
knowledge of the language, history, philosophy and arts of Korea. That’s why
I have pursued a double degree with the department of Korean Culture and
Language. I have acquired the certification to teach Korean.
Going forward, I think that theatre can be another way to inform the world
about Korean history and philosophy. Through performances it is possible
to talk in an interesting and enjoyable way about the history of taekwondo
by going through the history of Korea and its people and mythologies.
Taekwondo was exported throughout the world by Korean instructors in
the 1970s. They did more than diplomats did to propagate Korean culture. If
Korean government institutions were to promote taekwondo, it would become
a brand more famous and important than Samsung. It would be a major force
in increasing the number of foreigners who visit and take an interest in Korea.
th
(Published November 12 , 2010)
Look Inside!
Taekwondo, the Martial Arts of Korea
China has Kung fu, Japan has karate, and Korea has taekwondo. Taekwondo became a world sport when it was
included as an official category at the 2000 Sydney Olympic. Currently the taekwondo population has reached
the 80 million mark. Taekwondo uses only the body and mind as a defense method rather than attack.
Taekwondo ⓒKTO
Taekwondo ⓒKTO
Kukkiwon, the Taekwondo Headquarter
Experiencing Taekwondo
Opened in 1972 as the central dojang
In order to get a deeper understanding of
(taekwondo gymnasium), Kukkiwon promotes
the sport, you have to let your body feel it.
the globalization of taekwondo. Belt test
From April to the first week of November on
are held here as well. It has produced over 8
Wednesdays at 11a.m., Saturdays at 2p.m.,
million dan and pum (ranks in taekwondo)
and Sundays at 5p.m. a special taekwondo
h o l d e r s. I n 1 9 8 3 , i t s t a r te d t h e Wo r l d
experience program is held at the Namsangol
Taekwondo Academy to train grand masters
Hanok Village. Basic moves and forms,
and send them out to the world. Over 50,000
breaking tiles and more are offered in a 1 hour
grand masters have graduated from the
class. Classes are 20,000 won per person and
academy.
reservations must be made at the Website.
[Kukkiwon] Address 635 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-
[Namsangol Hanok Village] Address 84-1 Pil-dong
gu, Seoul Web kukkiwon.or.kr
2-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul Web taekwonseoul.org
Taekwondo Meets Traditional Dance
Taekwondo is also an art. Every Wednesday,
Saturday and Sunday from April to
November, a “Taekwondo Concert” is held
at the Namsangol Hanok Village. A fun and
interesting story of how taekwondo saves
men is portrayed through taekwondo and
traditional dance. There are no performances
in August.
[Taekwondo Concert] Address 84-1 Pil-dong 2-ga,
Jung-gu, Seoul Web taekwonseoul.org
092
| Templestay |
093
Hello? I am Santhasiri from Sri Lanka. Already I have been in Korea for
six years. I came to Korea for the first time in 2003 after I met a Korean
monk who visited Sri Lanka. My first visit was for two and a half months
and I met migrant workers from Southeast Asia and had a chance to help
them. It was a very useful and meaningful experience for me and that
made me come back to Korea on February 4, 2004.
I almost lost my knees doing the 108 bows,
barely kept my eyes
open during the early morning service,
but I got to known a new side of Korea
With great expectations, I made my first step in a foreign migrant
workers center in Bogwangsa Temple, Paju-si. After that, I worked for
migrant workers in Ansan-si for a while and then came to Mahabuddha
center in Gumi-si in April, 2005. In Mahabuddha center it was like a full
time job for me to work for migrant workers from Sri Lanka, Indonesia,
Philippines, Cambodia, Vietnam, Pakistan, etc. My main duties included
interpreting for migrant workers when they go to a hospital when they
are sick and helping to deal with all the different types of civil service
cases from migrant workers in relation to their severance pay, industrial
accidents, police interpreting, court interpreting, the Ministry of Labor,
Korea Workers’ Compensation and Welfare Service, etc. Especially I am
actively engaged in problem solving for migrant women from alienated
multicultural families. I came to have an interest in child welfare because
I care about their children. So I am studying child welfare at Gumi
College 1. I would like to work for migrant workers with great passion
in future, not forgetting why I chose Korea first.
The most memorable moment in Korea has been my Korean Buddhist
experience for two weeks with foreign monks at Magoksa Temple in
G. Santhasiri
Born 1976 in Sri Lanka. Santhasiri studied archeology at the University of Sri
Jayewardenepura and graduated in 2003. He came to Korea in 2004 and has worked
helping foreign workers in Korea with interpretation and various civil matters.
108 bows at the Haeinsa Templestay program ⓒKTO
094
095
Gongju-si, Chungcheongnam-do. Magoksa Temple is an old temple
founded by Monk Jajang, Buddhism discipline expert during the Silla
Kingdom and has the status of being the head temple of the 25th
Buddhist diocese of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism. It was a
mysterious experience I have never had before, waking up at 3:30 at
dawn and starting a day by beopgo: Buddhist drum, sound awakening all
things in the universe. It was such a great pain bowing 108 times for the
first time in my life after yebul: Buddha worship, with many other monks
at the main building of the temple. Only a person who has experienced
the bowing knows the pain which makes legs stiff and calf muscles hard.
I wasn’t even able to walk. However, I keep on bowing 108 times these
days, which is beneficial to my health.
Another memorable moment impacting on my Korean life is balugongyang: offering of bowls, which I first experienced then. Balu-gongyang
is monastic table manners, using four balu (bowls) for rice, soup, side
dishes, and water so much as one can take, and finishing food without
wasting any in silence. However, it was too difficult to eat not wasting
At Magoksa Temple in 2006 (Santhasiri is the 3rd person from the right) ⓒG. Santhasiri
even a speck of food using a spoon and chopsticks because I was poor at
using them.
Listening to a lecture about significance of donors’ offerings and
devotion to food, and realizing that it is etiquette setting one’s attitude
towards food and receiving it properly, I could make a real effort
following the discipline more carefully. Another unique experience
was Zen meditation searching for self. I had a hard time sitting crosslegged because I was not used to living on the floor. Concentrating on a
meaningful topic; mantra made me sleepy and provoked delusions unless
sleepy. After repeated sleepiness, delusions and unbearable foot numbness
from sitting for two weeks I came to learn a lot about Korean Buddhism
and culture and feel as much. So I recommend a templestay without any
hesitation to foreigners who are curious about Korea.
Recently Korean food is my biggest interest. At the beginning I have
had a very tough time getting used to Korean food. The unique smell
of doenjang: fermented bean paste, soup was so disgusting to block my
Magoksa Temple ⓒKTO
096
097
nostrils. However, I came to appreciate the true taste of Korean recipes
which bring out the natural flavors without adding any seasoning or
spices, having experienced temple culture for a long time. Due to the
distinct four seasons, seasonal food is well developed in Korea and even
the same material may give out different tastes preserved depending on
the season. So I came to enjoy delicious doenjang soup with tofu-bean
curd and diced hot Cheongyang red pepper. Well-matured kimchi: salted
and seasoned Chinese cabbages soup captured my taste buds more than
any other food with its uniqueness. After having some oily food for a
few days I am eager for doenjang or kimchi soup and I think my taste
buds must have truly naturalized as a Korean native.
Today I start my mornings with 108 bows and am busy with matters
with migrant workers all day but I am a happy Korean person who can
eat a bowl of rice heartily and rest on the warm floor in the evening.
I became a kind-hearted person of Gyeongsang Province who goes
around migrant workers’ rooms in the migrant center to see whether
they are warm enough or if there are any sick people, taking after my
master who always takes care of me whether I am warm enough or in
good health. (Published November 26th, 2010)
Look Inside!
Templestay, Searching My Inner Self
Templestay is a program that lets you experience the Korean Buddhist culture while spending a night a temple.
It was first started with the 2002 Korea-Japan World Cup to promote Korea Buddhism to visiting tourists, and to
this day there are over 100 participating temples nationwide. Below are 4 outstanding temple recommended by
the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhist. Web templestay.com
Woljeongsa Temple ⓒKTO
Haeinsa Temple ⓒKTO
Jeondeungsa Temple
Haeinsa Temple
Jeondeungsa is located in Ganghwado Island, it’s
Located at the foot of G ayasan M ountain in
been told that Jeondeungsa was built in 381 during
Hapcheon-gun, this millennial temple houses the
Goguryeo Kingdom’s King Sosurim’s reign. It is only
80,000 Tripitaka Koreana printing woodblocks, and
1.5 hours from Seoul, and is popular among foreign
its depositories, both registered on UNESCO’s World
tourists for the many programs offered.
Heritage list. It is a representative temple of Korea
Address 635 Onsu-ri, Gilsang-myeon, Ganghwa-gun, Incheon
that is loved by both locals and tourists, and it has a
Web jeondeungsa.org
Woljeongsa Temple
special templestay program for foreigners.
Address 10 Chiin-ri, Gaya-myeon, Hapcheon-gun, Gyeong
sangnam-do Web haeinsa.or.kr
Located in Pyeongchang-gun’s Odaesan Mountain,
Woljeongsa Temple was constructed in 643 during
Geumsansa Temple
Silla Kingdom’s Queen Seondeok’s reign, and it
Although it was initially famous for the nation’s only
famous as the temple with Buddha’s sarira. The
3-storied Mireukjeon Hall, in recent years, it has
templestay program at Woljeongsa Temple is favored
become better known for its exemplar templestay
by many, including non-believers, for its flexible
program. The Geumsansa Temple offers 1 night, 2
schedule. The 1-km fir tree forest trail that starts at the
night and 6 night templestay programs. The most
Iljumun Gate of the temple is also a famous tourist
popular activity is the time spent with monks.
attraction.
Address 39 Geumsan-ri, Geumsan-myeon, Gimje-si, Jeollabuk-
Address 63 Dongsan-ri, Jinbu-myeon, Pyeongchang-gun,
do Web geumsansa.org
Gangwon-do Web woljeongsa.org
098
| The Gi (energy) Experience of Palgongsan Mountain |
099
One of my wishes was fulfilled that day
“Arigato,
Gatbawi!”
Gatbawi Rock at Palgongsan Mountain ⓒKogure Makoto
It was my first time to Gyeongsangbuk-do in Jan 2011 (this year). At that
time, my friend who live in Daegu showed me around. However, there
were two wishes of mine that remained unfulfilled. One of them was to
visit the Gatbawi Rock Buddha statue located on Palgongsan Mountain.
Another wish was to try out a famous Daegu dish called makchang (Grilled
Pork Entrails).
In May, I visited Daegu again to watch a musical, so I decided to make
up for what I missed out the last time I came. I boarded the KTX
at 9a.m. from Seoul, and arrived at East Daegu Station at 10:45a.m.
I boarded the shuttle bus near the station, and arrived at Palgongsan
Mountain after a shaky bus ride which took approximately 50 minutes.
I entered a restaurant located at the foot of the mountain. It was hot so I
had my first kongguksu (Noodles in Chilled Bean Broth) for lunch in that
year. After that, the bowl of warm guksu (noodles) ordered by the person
sitting at the table next to me had arrived, but mine didn’t, so I hurried
them. After waiting for my kongguksu for a long time, it finally came,
the shop aunty said “Sorry to keep you waiting for so long. It should
taste very good after waiting so long”. On top of hearing that, I wasn’t
expecting much from a restaurant located at a tourist spot, but the soya
milk was actually very rich, the richness of the noodles flowed down
my throat, and the trefoil and parsley salad was so delicious, so it really
surpassed my expectations, ultimately delighting me. I handed over my
luggage to the shop for safekeeping, and I proceeded to start my walking
journey to the heart of Palgongsan Mountain where the Gatbawi Rock
Buddha statue was located.
The tender green and azaleas were beautiful and the weather was so
good on that Sunday, so there were many tourists. When I searched
online, the one-way walking distance to the Gatbawi Rock was one
hour. However, I didn’t expect to encounter so many steep slopes, and
steep stairways with rocky paths. After climbing for five minutes, I
wanted to give up. That was how tough it was. My knees were wobbling,
but since I came all the way to Daegu, it didn't make sense for me not to
do any sightseeing, so that became my motivation to go on.
Western clothing and a bag carried on my shoulders. Others
Me
Wind breaker for mountain trekking, long pants, and backpack. I
obviously underestimated the difficulty level of this journey. The path to
Gatbawi Rock was not a hiking or trekking trail, but rather “mountain
Kogure Makoto 小暮眞琴
Born 1961 in Japan, Makoto is a government employee in Japan. Her body may be
in Japan, but her heard is surely in Korea. She watches Korean dramas, keeps up with
Korean news, talks to Korean friends over the phone and e-mail. And studies Korean
every day hoping to come to Korea for a long-term language program.
100
101
Trail to Gatbawi Rock ⓒKogure Makoto
climbing”. Even if you are fully geared up for mountain climbing, anyone
will still be worn out by this. There were benches for those who reached
the peak of their exhaustion, which was just nice. Everyone was muttering
"himdeuro (so tough)" in their strong Gyeongsangbuk-do accent.
Along the way when I looked at the surroundings, I realized that
we were already halfway up, and yet the destination was nowhere in
sight. There was no telling how much longer I needed to walk in this
living hell. Drenched in sweat, just an hour after I started climbing, my
heart leapt with joy as I saw the sign that said "You are at Gyeongsang
Province Gatbawi Rock". Yes, I finally arrived at Gatbawi Rock. I was
like a Kappa (water imp in Japanese folklore) that emerged from a muddy
swamp. So is this why this place is called Kappawi (Japanese spelling of
Gatbawi Rock)? (I don’t think so). The name “Gatbawi” was made up
of the names “Gat" (which refers to the traditional cylindrical Korean
hat), and “Bawi” (which means “rock”), hence the name for the Buddha
that appeared to be wearing a cylindrical shaped hat. Nothing to do with
Kappas (LOL). Yes, I'm the Kappa here (laughs bitterly). I heard that if
we earnestly recited our wishes to the Buddha who wears a cylindrical
hat, our wish would come true once in our lifetime. There were many
people who were on their knees praying devoutly. In fact there were so
many people that you won't imagine that you're on top of a mountain.
Since I struggled so hard to climb all the way up, I was greedy enough to
make two wishes. Actually, one of them has already been fulfilled, so I think
it was really worth it.The other one is already in progress, I think (LOL).
After enjoying the fantastic view from the mountain top, I gulped down
the cold can of Pocari Sweat that I bought from the automatic vending
machine, and started my downhill journey. The downhill path was also
rocky and rough, so treaded with caution while grasping the railings.
Once I reached the foot of the mountain, when I went to retrieve my
luggage kept at the restaurant where I had my lunch, the aunty frying
pajeon in the open saw my face and said “hey you’re back”, as if to verify
that I am back in one piece, and rejoiced for me.
I was quite thirsty, so I went to buy a can of beer to drink while waiting
for the bus to go back. However, the bus came sooner than I expected,
so I ended up drinking in the bus. Everyone was looking at me (sweats).
Frantically, I took a towel to wrap it round the can (LOL). It is a Korean
beer brand that had this diluted taste similar to Budweiser, but it tasted
really good at this point of time.
After checking in to the hotel, I went to watch the musical I had looked
forward to watching so much. After it was over, even though it was
past 11p.m., I decided that I won’t go back to the hotel until I tried
the famous makchang which Daegu was famous for, so I went to eat it
People making wishes in front of Gatbawi Rock ⓒKogure Makoto
102
103
together with a friend staying in Daegu who joined me to watch the
musical. She was still a university student, so she had to obtain permission
from her mother to join me. I heard that there was a number of shops
lined up in a row that sold makchang nearby the opera house which
was accessible by taxi from the East Daegu Station at minimum fare, so
we proceeded to get there. We entered the shop named “Class A Year
2”. My friend ordered a mixture of makchang and samgyeopsal since she
was concerned that the makchang may not suit my taste. The makchang
seasoned with not very spicy seasonings which comes with sweet potato,
rice cakes, and onions, looked very much like sliced Chikuwas, but it felt
elastic and the burnt portions tasted exceptionally great.
It was very difficult to communicate effectively through the phone with
my friend whom I've not seen in four months, so it was very enjoyable
to meet up with her in person and chat with her. At that point, her
mother called her on the phone to ask her to come home. That was
when I realized it was 12 midnight. Frantically, we made a promise to
meet again, and we bid each other farewell.
It was a very short visit, but I achieved two goals. It was a very satisfying
trip to Daegu. (Published November 4th, 2011)
Look Inside!
An Energy Filled Power Spot of Korea
In Korea, there are many prayer-answering, energy-filled “Power Spots” like Palgongsan Mountain’s Gatbawi
Rock. There are many feng shui influenced sites, and sited deemed “Holy” for religious and historic purposes.
These are “Power Pilgrimage Spots” of Korea.
Gwaneum Holy Ground
Donguibogam Village
In Buddhism, Avalokitesvara, the goddess of
This Korean medicine themed park located in
mercy, made a vow to help humankind, and
Sancheong-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do, will be
in Korean, temples enshrining Avalokitesvara
hosting the 2013 World Traditional Medicine
are called Gwaneum temples. Interestingly,
Expo in memory of the 400th publication
most Gwaneum temples are famous as
anniversar y of the UNESCO designated
“Power Spots.” The three major Gwaneum
Donguibogam, Principles and Practice of Eastern
holy grounds of Korea are Naksansa Temple
Medicine. The Baekdudaegan Mountain
in Yangyang-gun, Gangwon-do, Bomunsa
Range, which begins in Baedusan Mountain,
Temple in Ganghwado, Incheon, and Boriam
ends here in Sancheong-gun, and it is said
Hermitage in Namhae-gun, Gyeongsangnam-
that the energy of the mountains can be felt
do. The Korea Tourism Organization and
the strongest in this village. Sancheong-gun
the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism have
is also famous as the hometown of Joseon
selected 33 temples and declared them as
Dynasty’s greatest doctor, Heo Jun. Other
“Gwaneum Holy Grounds” and since 2011 a
noteworthy attractions of the area include the
special pilgrimage program is being operated.
Korean Traditional Medicine Museum and the
Web [Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism] templestay.
Healing Experience Center.
com, [Korea Tourism Organization] visitkorea.or.kr
Address Teuk-ri, Geumseo-myeon, Sancheong-gun,
Gyeongsangnam-do
Taebaeksan Cheongjedan Altar
Taebaeksan Mountain (1,567 m) in Taebaeksi, Gangwon-do, was the holy ground where
ancestral rites for Dangun, the progenitor of a
nation, were held. Cheonjedan Altar was where
the rites were held for at least a thousand years,
and the altar still remains to this day. People
come to Taebaeksan Mountain to pray and wish
upon the gods. Specially, on New Year’s Day,
crowds of people climb the peaks of Taebaeksan
Mountain to make their new year’s resolutions.
Palgongsan Mountain ⓒKTO
Address Sodo-dong, Taebaek-si, Gangwon-do
Culture
of Korea
104
105
Jeffrey D. Jones
Eve Sinapi
Christina Ritt
Matthew Ambrosia
Tour of Busan
Journey of Korean Literature
Tour of the Korean Night Life
Busan's Sajik Baseball Park
–
–
–
–
Amy CHAN
Min Siang & Valencia
Robert Koehler
Han Xiang Zi
Tour of Drama Filming Locations
Best Place to Propose
Exploring the Alleys of Seoul
Incheon International Airport
–
–
–
–
John Duerden
Alia Rachel Jones
Omar Al-Nahar
Jin May-ling
Korean Soccer
K-pop Live
Korean Popular Music
Train Journey
Hallyu & Passion
Rachel Jones’ room covered with posters of K-pop singers, Korean movies and performances ⓒAlia Rachel Jones
106
| Tour of Busan |
107
Since the early 1970’s I have been privileged to travel throughout
Korea and I don’t believe there is a corner on the peninsula that I have
not visited. I have not been able to step foot on all of the thousands of
islands off the West coast of Korea, but I have certainly flown over them
in both airplane and helicopter, which provided a much better view.
Having seen so much and been to so many places, it was an extremely
difficult decision to come up with my favorite place in Korea. Part of the
difficulty is I sincerely enjoy so many places and part of the difficulty is
I don’t want to disappoint any of my friends who can be found in or are
from each destination.
Haeundae Beach ⓒKTO
The warmth and wide open spaces of Jejudo Island provide a welcome
relief from the congestion and the hustle and bustle found at almost every
other location in Korea. The majestic mountains of Seoraksan National
Park instill within me a sense of safety and security and seemingly assure
me that I will live forever. I am simply overwhelmed with the historical
significance of Gyeongju-si and marvel at the ingenuity of those who
lived centuries before us. The west coast beaches of Korea are under
utilized and provide welcome relief in the hot summer months, but
without the crowds. With so many places to enjoy, it was a very difficult
choice indeed.
I nevertheless came to the conclusion that the place I seem to return to
time and time again is Busan. Perhaps it’s because this is where I was first
introduced to Korea and learned to struggle with the Gyeongsangnamdo dialect which still sounds like everyone is fighting even when politely
asking for a glass of water. Perhaps it is the rough and tumble attitude of
It’s more affectionate
because it’s loud and crazy
Haeundae is a place you just keep wanting to go back to
Jeffrey D. Jones
Born 1952 in the U.S. He was first introduced to the Korean culture in the early 1970s, and has lived in
Korea since 1980. He speaks very fluent Korean. From 1998 to 2002 he served as Chairman of the American
Chamber of Commerce in Korea. Jones serves as Chairman of the Partners for the Future Foundation,
advisor to the Foreign Investment Advisory Council of Seoul City, director of the Korea Green Foundation,
and member of the International Advisory Board of the Federation of Korean Industries.
108
109
Gyeongsangnam-do coupled with a persevering optimism that underlies
the very rough exterior. Whatever the reason, Busan is the place I like to
return to when I have a free weekend. I prefer to stay at Haeundae Beach,
which now boasts of an elegant walkway along the entire beach front.
With exception of the first two weeks in August when the uninitiated
should avoid Busan, there is always plenty of room on the beach and
despite what your Korean friends will tell you, it is okay to swim in
the ocean on dates other than the first two weeks of August. My family
enjoys the beach from May through September and there is always
plenty of room, but even in this “offseason” you can enjoy a pickup
game of beach volleyball or soccer.You can stroll the walk way and enjoy
the street vendors who offer plenty to eat, a new hand drawn portrait or
you can have your fortune told, but be sure to know the time of day you
were born.
Haeundae Beach and the nearby vicinity have plenty of great restaurants
(the sushi shops are my favorites) from Western food to Eastern food
and everything in between and there is never a shortage of night clubs
or Karaoke Room when you are feeling a bit bored. Busan aquarium is
small, but fun and there are plenty of places to spend your money on the
latest fashion and accessories. For a family getaway or a romantic evening
for two, Busan is the place to go, but reserve early otherwise you may be
sleeping in a tent on the beach. (Published April 2 nd, 2010)
Look Inside!
Famous Attractions Where Busan can be Felt
Busan is a city full of energy. Not for its natural surrounding and famous tourist attractions, but because its
people. At the time of the Korean War, fleeting refugees landed in Busan. The hearts of these refugees heated
the city. Where is the best place to meet these warm hearted people?
Jagalchi Market
Gamcheon-dong Culture Village
This is the largest fisheries market in Korea formed
G amcheon- dong is small village on a sunny
in 1920. The smell of the ocean, the fisheries and
mountainside. While the young generation was
the people, and the loud and rough ajimaes (market
gradually leaving the village, a group of young artists
ladies) fill the entire market. Fresh fish is available
put life back in the village in 2009. They painted
from dusk till dawn, and on the 7th floor of the
murals and installed artworks in walls and alleys
market is guesthouse for foreign tourists.
of the village. It has now become a popular tourist
Address 37-1 Nampo-dong 4-ga, Jung-gu, Busan Web jagalchi
attraction of Busan.
market.or.kr
Address Gamcheon 2-dong, Saha-gu, Busan
Gukje Market & Kkangtong Market
Bosu-dong Bookstore Alley
Formed in 1945 by war refugee, Gukje Market is a
In 1950, during the Korean War, a young couple
representative wholesale and retail market of Busan
started selling used books from a cardboard box on
that carries everything from watches, machines,
the Bosu-dong Intersection. This was the birth of the
tools, electronics, kitchen appliances, clothing, food,
Bookstore Alley and today there over 30 bookstores
produce, etc. Right across this vintage market is
in business. You can find old literature, foreign books,
Kkangtong Market, which specializes in imported
textbooks, rare books, etc. There are also many small
goods. Busan eomuk (fishcake) and other Busan
cafes and the Mural Village is also nearby.
specialties attract shoppers from around the country.
Address 119 Bosu-dong 1-ga, Jung-gu, Busan Web bosubook.
Address Sinchang-dong 4-ga, Jung-gu, Busan Web tour.bsjun
com
ggu.go.kr
Haeundae Beach ⓒJoongAng Daily
I nevertheless came to the conclusion that the place
I seem to return to time and time again is Busan.
Busan Gukje Market ⓒKTO
Busan Jagalchi Market ⓒKTO
110
| Tour of Drama Filming Locations |
111
My first visit to Korea was in December 1972. Seoul looked interesting
although a bit rural compared to Tokyo and Osaka; the people were rather
friendly; and it was a pleasant surprise to see so many Chinese characters
in building and attraction names and shop signs. However, other than
these, my first sojourn to Korea did not really seem to have left much
impression so much so that I had not returned for three decades.
Namiseom Island, Manjanggul Cave, East Sea Lighthouse…
I came to see Bae Yong-joon,
and I’m leaving with Korea in my heart
But all these changed dramatically after I became a member of the Bae
Yong-joon “family” in 2003. That November, with much curiosity and
without any knowledge of what to expect, I went on an expedition to
Gwangju with 16 other ladies, none I had met before, and most could
hardly speak a word of Hangul or had ever been to the Land of the
Morning Calm. The purpose of our trip was to meet our idol, to shake
his hand and to have a photo taken with him after getting his precious
autograph. Little did I realize that this was the start of my 30 plus trips to
follow my idol’s footsteps in discovering the beauty of Korea!
The following winter, I took no time to visit Yongpyong Ski Resort,
Namiseom Island, and Chuncheon-si, so as to experience the natural
beauty of Gangwon-do, and relive “Winter Sonata” through the many
anecdotes and traces of my idol.
Namiseom Island ⓒKTO
Amy Chan
Born 1949 in Hong Kong, Chan was formerly the director of the Hong Kong Tourism
Board. She is also an honorary professor at the Hong Kong Polytechnic University,
Department of Tourism, the Chairman at the Korea-Hong Kong Friendship
Association, and an honorary advisor of Bae Yong-joon’s fan club in Hong Kong, BYJ
Friends Forever Club.
Then it was a non stop series of visits to all the unique locations I have
seen in my idol’s TV dramas and movies —— the Seoul Choong Ang
High School, Jukseoru Pavilion near Samcheok-si, the beach and rocks at
Chuam Beach, the lighthouse at East Sea, Jagalchi Market in Busan, Oedo
Botania, Resom Ocean Castle on Anmyeondo Island, Eight Scenic Views
of Danyang-gun, even the Manjanggul Cave in Jejudo Island. I slowly
evolved to a true admirer of Korea off the beaten track.
Through all these journeys, I became more and more interested in the
culture and tradition of this amazing country and its people, not to
mention its breathtaking landscape.
Hangul’s close resemblance to the Chinese language intrigues me. The
influence of Confucianism in the daily life and human relationship is
112
113
also beyond my imagination. I have many a time been deeply touched
by the close family ties and filial piety seen through tear jerking scenes
in Korean drama, something probably long lost and forgotten in our
modernized and westernized society.
What inspired me most is the patriotism of my idol and many of his
fellow countrymen. Bae Yong-joon is probably the first artist to write
a book on his profound love for his country’s culture and heritage. He
spent months to visit the places, meet the people, take photos to record
his journeys, and write with great respect and passion on what he has
encountered.
was where my idol and his screen lover remade the happy ending of the
animation version of their famous work on television.
My next trip to the Land of the Morning Calm? Well, I guess I must
dutifully continue to follow the footsteps of Bae Yong-joon, my idol.
May be this time, to the Andong Hahoe Village and Andong-si in
Gyeongsangbuk-do to see how traditional Korean jang is made. Smells
good, and tastes even better.
Gamsa hamnida, Korea and Bae Yong-joon ssi, for being so inspiring !
(Published July 16th, 2010)
It is therefore not difficult to understand why there are ladies ( yes,
mostly ladies ) from as diverse places as Egypt, France, Hawaii, Canada,
and Australia that have frequented “Bae Yong-joon land”, to be joined by
thousands of Japanese and ethnic Chinese from Mainland China, Taiwan,
Hong Kong and Southeast Asia. We go to Korea, not only because we
want to catch a glimpse of our idol, but to learn more about his country.
I know of “senior” ladies in the Bae Yong-joon gajok ( family ) making
special efforts to study Korean, learn to use the computer so that they
can get onto the internet to follow the latest news of our idol, and some
even go to the extent of taking lessons on “Photoshop” and film editing
in order to share beautiful images of our idol and Korean scenery with
fellow “family” members.
Amy Chan's "Bae Yong-joon" Pilgrimage
Namiseom
Island
Seoul Choong Ang
High School
Chuncheon
Jeongdongjin
Chuam Beach
Jukseoru Pavilion
•Samcheok
Yongpyong
Ski Resort
Eight Scenic Views of Danyang
For those bureaucrats who often doubt the effectiveness of using
celebrities as spokespersons for Korea, and those who think the Hallyu
(Korean Wave) is but a short lived phenomenon, I wish to say, they are
wrong. The impact of Hallyu is immense, although a little challenging
to be correctly measurable, but certainly is much longer lasting than
most people thought. All these enthusiasm for Korea and its glittering
personalities may require careful management, but Hallyu is here to stay.
In April, I went with my rather jealous but kind-hearted husband to
Jeongdongjin and stayed at the Sun Cruise Resort. Why -- because that
Resom Ocean Castle
Jagalchi Market in Busan
Gwangju
Geojedo Island, Oedo Island
Manjanggul Cave in Jejudo Island
114
115
Look Inside!
Hallyu Road,
Famous Filming Locations in Korea
Jewel in the Palace, Winter Sonata, Star in my Heart, Autumn in My Heart, Stairway to Heaven, these are just a few
1st and 2nd generation hallyu dramas. Filming locations of these dramas have already become popular tourist
attractions. Here are newer dramas and their filming locations.
Hongik University Area, Hongdae
Gwanghalluwon Garden
Seaes Hotel
This is the main setting for Moon
This garden was featured in
Secret Garden is a drama about the
Geun-yeong’s Mary Stayed Out All
Rooftop Prince, starring JYJ’s Park
love story between the CEO of a
Night. Being a young university area
Yoo-chun. The drama draws the
major department store and a stunt
famous for its wild nightlife, many
love stor y between a Joseon
woman. In the drama, the two get
modern and trendy dramas are
Dynasty crown prince (Park Yoo-
lost in the forest and somehow
filmed here. 1st Shop of Coffee Prince
chun) and a modern day young
end up drinking a mystery wine
was also filmed here, and the actual
woman named Bak-ha (Han Ji-min).
that ends up changing their souls.
coffee shop feature on the drama
Gwanghalluwon Garden is one of
The resort where they first find
is still in business today attracting
the top 4 pavilions of Korea, and it
out about their changed souls is at
crowds of people. And finally in
was where the crown prince and
this hotel in Jejudo Island. Crowds
Love Rain, Jang Keun-suk’s studio
his princess used to take walks to.
of people visit the hotel to take
was also located here in Hongdae.
This is also where the princess was
pictures.
Address Donggyo-dong, Seogyo-dong
found dead. This is also where Bak-
Ad d r e s s 2563-1 Jungmun- dong,
and Sangsu-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul
ha finds a letter the prince wrote to
Seogwipo-si, Jeju Special Self-governing
Jade Garden
Exported to over 20 countries
her 300 years ago.
Address 1447 Yocheon-ro, Namwon-si,
Jeollabuk-do Web gwanghallu.or.kr
even before the end of the
drama, Love Rain was filmed in
Cheongsando Island
this arboretum. This beautiful
This is the island where the two
European style garden was
main characters of the drama Scent
Hana’s House, played by Girls’
of a Woman, unexpectedly spend a
Generation’s Yuna. Jade Garden
night in a tent. Their date/business
was also featured in You’re a Pet, a
trip was filmed here.
movie starring Jang Keun-suk.
Address Cheongsan-myeon, Wando-
Address San 111 Seojeon-ri, Namsan-
gun, Jeollabuk-do Web sanbada.net
myeon, Chuncheon-si, Gangwon-do
Web jadegarden.kr
Jade Garden ⓒHanwha Hotels&Resorts
Province Web seaes.co.kr
116
| Korean Soccer |
117
I go to soccer stadiums to feel the
“Real” Korea
Seoul World Cup Stadium filled with fans wearing red shirts ⓒKTO
It is a great way to spend your free time and watching football in Korea
gives you the excuse to travel around a fascinating and beautiful country.
I have sweated in the summer in Pohang, shivered in Seoul and got
drenched in a Daejeon thunderstorm (after the first day of the 2005 East
Asian Championships if anyone remembers that) that came so suddenly
and so heavily that my laptop was damaged beyond repair. It has never
been boring, always enjoyable.
People often ask me about the differences between football in Korea, and
England, where I am from. I try to make the point that English football
is not just about the English Premier League. That may be the most
popular league in the world but the country has a vibrant football scene
from the tip of the pyramid right down through the Championship,
League one, League Two, the Conference and the many more leagues
lower down. It is these that remind me of Korean football, not so much
in the standard but more in regards to the people, the atmosphere and
the sheer friendliness.
That is what I enjoy most about football in Korea. It is the people. This
is a league in which the clubs, the players and the fans have an incredibly
close relationship. Watching Suwon Bluewings win the FA Cup recently,
what was striking was how the players passed the trophy to their fans
after defeating Busan I’Park. It is something is hard to see elsewhere and
it was a pleasure to watch.
It is this closeness between the hardcore fans and the players that helps
define Korean football. I had the pleasure to be invited to speak at the
open day for Incheon United before the 2009 season. Again, I was struck
by the easy familiarity between the fans and their heroes. With much of
European football becoming one that where clubs increasingly talk of
customers or consumers, the relationship between fans and players in
Korea is a close one. The fact that all the team buses are covered with
good luck graffiti scribbled by fans shows the affection and mutual
respect that exists.
This is not to say that the football scene is amateurish. It is not. If you
happen to find yourself flying over Korea and are lucky enough to have a
John Duerden
Born 1972 in London, Duerden studied politics and economics in London and is
a soccer columnist and freelance reporter. He has had articles published in CNN,
Associated Press, the Guardian and other soccer publications, and is the editor of
Goal.com. He also writes columns for the Asian Football Confederation Website and
Total Soccer magazine. Currently living in Seoul since 2002, he is running “Duerden’s
Top Corner” in Nate.com. He is a big fan of the Blackburn Rovers.
118
119
window seat that you are in with a great chance of spying one of the ten
state-of-the-art stadiums that dot the Land of the Morning Calm. The
facilities are great and the football is good. Nine times Korean teams have
won the Asian Champions League, the same as the combined totals of the
next best two – Japan and Saudi Arabia. It is a record to be proud of.
So you have good football, in great surroundings that all takes place in a
relaxed atmosphere. Compare it some European leagues where fans can’t
even take a bottle of water into the stadium, in Korea you can pretty
much do what you like. Families take in pizzas, fried chicken, squid, beer
and anything they fancy.
The hardcore that congregate behind one of the goals don’t eat anything
during the match. These boy and girls, and there is a good proportion
of females, may grab a quick snack at half-time but as soon as the action
starts, they sing, jump up and down and get behind their team. Even if
the opposition are winning 3-0, there is little let up in the songs and
chants. When the final whistle sounds, the players head to that end of
the stadium to celebrate the win with their fans or bow in apology if the
result is not what everyone had hoped. There is little aggression. It is all
about enjoying a good day out.
I was lucky enough to be here for the 2002 World Cup when I first saw
how football could energise a nation in a way that was incredible and
beautiful. It was a month in which football showed the power it had to
bring people together and to change things for the better. As exciting as
it was to see Korea defeat European giants like Italy, Spain and Portugal
to go to the semi-finals and put provincial cities such as Daejeon and
Gwangju on the global map, it is still in the domestic football that you
can find the most joy. I have watched the Korean national team play on
four continents but it is back in East Asia where it feels the best.
Look Inside!
Incredible Matches at Korea’s Soccer Stadiums
Begun in 1983 with only five teams, as of 2012, K League has 16 teams. Korea is home to the Jeju World Cup Stadium,
which was included among the world’s top 10 soccer stadiums; the Suwon World Cup Stadium, which is nickname
“Big Bird” for the wing-like roof; and the Gwangju World Cup Stadium, where the legendary quarter-final match of the
2002 Korea-Japan World Cup was held. Here are stadiums that re-wrote the history of Korean soccer.
Seoul World Cup Stadium
Daejeon World Cup Stadium
Showing what Korean architectural beauty
Established in 2001, this soccer stadium has a
is all about, the Seoul World Cup Stadium is
capacity of 40,000 seats. It is the first stadium
Asia’s largest soccer stadium. It has a capacity
in Korea to have iron framed sliding ceilings.
of over 60,000, and it has hosted not only
Home to the Daejeon Citizens FC, this was
the 2002 World Cups, but also hosts various
where the quarter finals of the 2002 World
A-match games. This is the home stadium of
Cup was held.
the FC Seoul.
Address 270 Noeun-dong, Yuseong-gu, Daejeon
Address 515 Seongsan-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul Web sisul.
Web djsiseol.or.kr
or.kr/sub04
Pohang Steelyard
Incheon Munhak Stadium
Completed in 1990, this was the first soccer
This is an all-inclusive sports complex. Home
field of Korea. Although it is a rather small
to the Incheon United FC, Munhak Stadium
stadium with a capacity of 20,000 seats, with
has a baseball park, track and field track, a
a special 500 seats for its supporters, it is the
soccer field and more. This is where Korean
pride of Pohang. It is the home of the Pohang
National Team made it into the top 16 at the
Steelers.
2002 World Cup
Address 1 Goedong-dong, Nam-gu, Pohang-si, Gyeong
Address 482 Munhak-dong, Nam-gu, Incheon Web in
sangbuk-do Web steelers.co.kr
siseol.net
This is where you see the real Korea.You are greeted as a friend and you
leave as one. (Published January 21th, 2011)
Seoul World Cup Stadium ⓒKTO
120
| Journey of Korean Literature |
121
Sonagi Village in Yangpyeong-gun
and the Gwanghalluwon Garden in Namwon-si,
Such a Romantic Korea
Wanwoljeong is a pavilion in a pond in Gwanghalluwon Garden ⓒKTO
Eve Sinapi
Born 1984 in Marseille, France. She has a master’s degree in education and her first
visit to Korea was in 2003. Since then she’s worked as a visiting professor in Korea,
and has visited 2 more times. In 2008, she fell in love with a Korean man in Daegu
and they married in February, 2011. She lives in Daegu, and is still exploring the
Korean culture.
My name is Eve Sinapi (in Korea people call me "Eva"), I’m 28 years old
and I’m originally from Marseille in the south of France. I left France
in August 2007 to come and live in Korea. I still remember very vividly
that summer’s day when, alone, I boarded the plane which would take
me to Korea and my new life. At the time, I was still just a girl of 24.
Having completed my master’s degree in teaching French as a foreign
language in France, I decided to go and teach our beautiful language to
the Koreans. And that’s how it came to pass that, at a young age, I took
a plane to Korea, a distant land, situated more than 9,000 km from my
own. On the day of my departure, although I was enthusiastic about
the new experience ahead of me, I was still quite anxious. I wondered
whether I would really be happy in Korea, without family, friends or
anyone I knew, and without even being able to speak Korean properly,
and not knowing anything about the country’s culture and customs. I was
worried about feeling lonely in Korea and I wasn’t sure whether I’d be
able to adapt to this new and very different life. Every time I had anxious
thoughts, I would keep telling myself to ease my not insignificant doubts,
"Yes! You can do it! You'll manage!"
Looking back on all that now really makes me laugh. You know why?
Because I’m not the same young girl I was then. I’ve been living in
Korea for almost four years now and I must admit that I’ve changed a
great deal. I’m no longer that anxious young girl heading towards an
uncertain future, but a self-assured young woman who enjoys chatting
away in Korean, writing long letters in Korean, eating Korean food
at any time of day and who even tries cooking Korean dishes for her
husband. And yes, my husband is Korean! We have known each other
for three years and enjoy being together every day, singing our heads off
to Korean songs and watching Korean films. Now, when I have to go
back to France to see my family, I worry about going more than a week
without seeing kimchi, and I wonder whether I'll be able to stomach
all that bread and cheese! That’s how I am now. When people ask me
how I could have changed so much in just four years, I simply tell them
I’ve fallen under Korea’s spell. It’s not only that I’ve fallen in love with a
Korean. I’ve also fallen in love with this welcoming country, the beautiful
language and the Korean culture, which is so different from my own
and yet so rich and fascinating. They say that when you fall in love with
122
123
In Gwanghalluwon Garden with my husband
ⓒEve Sinapi
I might be French but to me the atmosphere in France
is not as romantic as it is here in Korea.
someone, you can change without even realising. Well, the
same applies when you fall in love with a country. You can
change enormously without even noticing.
When people hear me talking like this, they often ask: "But
what exactly is it that’s so charming about Korea? France
is such a romantic country, how could you have given it
all up for Korea?" The answer is very simple: Korea is also
an extremely romantic country! I might be French but to
me the atmosphere in France is not as romantic as it is here
in Korea. Believe me, it’s true! Korea really is a romantic
country!
The romantic charm of Korea
In my four years of living in Korea, I’ve travelled around the
country a lot and discovered many places with a romantic
atmosphere or significance.
For instance I recently had the opportunity to go to
Yangpyeong-gun, in the province of Gyeonggi-do in the
north part of the country to film an episode of "Miso Korea"
(Korea Smile) for the TV channel SBS. This trip gave me
the opportunity to visit "Sonagi Village", the village featured in "Sonagi"
(The Rain Showers), a classic Korean novel written by Hwang Sunwon. This village is where the novel is set and I was over the moon
to be able to get this unique opportunity to visit it. In actual fact, as a
foreigner I wasn’t familiar with the novel until then, but once someone
summed up the story about a passionate yet pure love affair between
two Korean teenagers, I was very moved and really keen to read it for
myself. The tragic end of the story, in particular, so sad and at the same
time so romantic, brought to mind Shakespeare’s "Romeo and Juliet". It
was then that I realised the Koreans are just as good at telling these sorts
of romantic tales as us Europeans! It was such a joy for me to see with
my own eyes Yangpyeong-gun, the backdrop of the novel "Sonagi" ("The
Rain Showers") and to imagine myself as the heroine!
Gwanghalluwon Garden ⓒKTO
124
125
What really touched me about Hwang Sun-won’s novel was that the
characters are two teenagers who fall in love because of the attraction
they feel for one another although they come from completely different
backgrounds. The young woman is from Seoul, the capital city, and
suddenly has to up sticks and move to the country where she meets a
boy who is very different to the types she met in the city. She gradually
learns to enjoy this new environment – the Korean countryside –
together with him. To tell the truth, it’s a bit like the love story that
played out between me and my husband. I was only young and from a
big French city when I moved to a small village in the Korean province
of Gyeongsangbuk-do, where I met my future husband, before moving to
Daegu. It’s clear that what brought us together was the fact that we come
from two very different worlds but are so emotionally connected and
happy together in Korea. I can therefore really identify with this novel,
and the fact I was able to visit the village of "Sonagi" in Yangpyeong-gun
allowed me to discover another gem of Korean literature and culture.
And this experience also allowed me to experience a special romantic
atmosphere which I wouldn’t have found elsewhere.
Hangang River ⓒEve Sinapi
Before we were married, I had a similar experience with my husband
when we visited the town of Namwon-si in the province of Jeollabuk-do
where we visited the Gwanghalluwon Garden. When I saw the array of
different flowers and the park's beautiful natural scenery, my heart skipped
a beat. In the spring sunshine, my husband and I could not stop smiling.
But that’s not all. Whilst visiting Gwanghalluwon Garden, I discovered
the famous Korean love story between "Chun-hyang and Mong-nyong".
Namwon-si is said to be where the legend of "Chun-hyang and Mongnyong" originated. It is a tale of fidelity between two people who have a
truly loyal love for one another until the bitter end despite the obstacles
life throws at them.
While discovering some elements of the legend for ourselves in
Namwon-si, my husband and I wore traditional Korean dress and had
our photos taken. And it was then that we vowed always to love and be
faithful to one another, just like Chun-hyang and Mong-nyong. It was
also then that I understood that Koreans were true romantics too.
But Korea’s romantic charm doesn’t end there. There are countless other
wonders in all four corners of the Korean peninsula, not forgetting
Jejudo Island, which also oozes romanticism. When I visited Jejudo Island
In Jejudo Island with my husband in 2009 ⓒEve Sinapi
126
127
in 2009, I went for a walk in a beautiful place called "Seopjikoji Coast",
where I was captivated by the beauty of the sea, which was a much
lighter blue than the Mediterranean of my childhood, but which had that
same smell of iodine and that same light breeze, and straight away made
me feel at home. On the cliff tops surrounded by lush green scenery,
I was admiring the tranquil beauty of the landscape with my husband
when suddenly I heard the sound of a horse trotting along behind us and
noticed a western style church in a stunning setting. On closer inspection,
we found out that it was the filming location of the Korean TV series
"All in", a very famous show about a love story (again!) between actors Lee
Byung-hun and Song Hye-kyo It really was amazing to see this magical
setting with our own eyes and to feel a bit like lovers on a television show!
In Seoul, I once went on a mini cruise on the Hangang River, which
runs through the heart of the city. During the cruise, I witnessed a truly
magnificent sunset, where the red and orange light was reflected in the
water of the river, lending a new charm to the city’s skyscrapers. There,
too, that sunset gave me goose bumps.
And now that it’s springtime I’m looking forward to going to Gyeongjusi in the eastern part of the country with my husband to see the huge
avenues full of cherry blossom in bloom and to take some photos which
look like paintings as the colours are so clear and lucid. When walking
along those avenues and seeing the white cherry blossom falling all
around us like a spring snow shower, we can’t help smiling and feeling
the romanticism of the setting wash over us!
I don’t think I’ll ever stop discovering new romantic places in Korea. I
recently heard about a small island called "Namiseom Island ( 남이섬)",
in the province of Gangwon-do. The island is apparently well-known
for being the filming location of the most romantic scenes from the TV
show "Winter Sonata (겨울연가)", a phenomenally successful series about a
love affair between actors Bae Yong-joon and Choi Ji-woo. I'm told it’s a
must-see for all fans of Korean television series and romantics. Which is
why I hope to get the chance to go there soon myself!
So there we go: the romantic side of Korea is enough to exhilarate
anyone, even a French woman like me! (Published May 13th, 2011)
Look Inside!
Korean Literature Introduced in the World
Since 1990, many Korean literary works have translated and published in other languages. In 2011, Shin Kyungsook’s Please Look After Mom was translated and published in 33 languages. The world is slowly showing interest
in Korean literature.
When was a Korean book first translated?
Korean Classics Read by the World
In 1889, the English version of Hanguk
Kim Man-jung’s Guunmong (The Cloud Dream
Mindamjip (Folk Tales of Korea) was published
of the Nine) and Lady Hong’s Han joong
in the United States. In 1892 the French
nok (Records of Sorrowful Days) are Korean
edition of Chunhyangjeon was introduced,
classics still sold at amazon.com. Guunmong
and in 1893 Korean Folk and Fairy Tales was
was translated by J.S. Gale in 1922, and was
published in German. The Korean classis novel
published and revised a number of times by
Simcheongjeon was also published in French
the English title, The Cloud Dream of the Nine.
in1895. It has been over 100 years since the
There are also 2 Japanese editions.
first Korean literature was translated.
The 2000s, Glory Days of the Korean
Who has the most translated works?
Literature Abroad
Every year, poet Ko Un is a candidate for
Korean novels began to hit bookstands
the Nobel Prize of Literature. Maninbo
around the world in the mid-2000s. Aside
(Ten Thousand Lives) and Hwaeomgyeong,
from works by famous writers like Yi Kwang-
Avatamsaka Sutra have been translated in 15
su and Hwang Sun-won, Choi In-ho’s Firebird,
languages. The 2nd most translated author
and Park Wan-suh’s Who Ate Up All the Shinga
is novelist Yi Mun-yol. Yi has novels like Our
were introduced translated and introduced
Twisted Hero, The Son of Man, and Portrait of
to the world. In 2006, famous Korean writers
my Youth translated and published in various
like Gong Ji-young, Shin Kyung-sook, Kim
foreign languages. Next in line is Lee Cheong-
Young-ha, Jo Kyung-ran and Han Gang have
jun, who wrote Seopyeonje, and Iodo. Lee’s
contracted with distinguished publishes
works are especially popular among German
overseas. They are following the footsteps of
readers. Novelist Hwang Sok-yong’s The
novelists like Hwang Sok-yong and Yi Mun-yol,
Old Garden, and The Guest have also been
who have already made their mark worldwide.
translated into 11 languages.
Hwang Sok-yong <The Old Garden> ⓒSMW
128
| Best Place to Propose |
129
I proposed to my girlfriend
at Lotte World,
and she couldn’t stop crying
With the parade team at Lotte World ⓒMin Siang & Valencia
To Min Siang and Valensia, who live in Singapore, Lotte World is a place they’ll never forget.
For as long as their love lasts, their memory of Lotte World will also last.
Min Siang:
Min Siang & Valencia
Groom-to-be Min Siang, Loy was born in 1985 in Singapore, and currently works at a
bank in Singapore. Bride-to-be Valencia, Lin was born in 1984 in Singapore, and she
also works are a bank in Singapore. The two first visited Korea 2 years ago, and fell
in love with the Korean culture; its food, its fashion, the arts and entertainment, the
landscape, the weather, Korean dramas, music and everything else Korea. In May,
2011, the came back to visit Korea, and Min Siang proposed to his girlfriend.
Korea, this was the land we’ve fell in love with since our first visit to
the country 2 years ago. Back then, we were reluctant to go back home
to Singapore and promised each other that we’ll come back again
someday. True enough, 2 years later, we touched down at the Incheon
International Airport on the 21st May 2011.
Like 2 years back, we opted for a free-and-easy trip, preferring to be
unbounded by the many limitations of joining tour. In particular, I had
130
131
Night View of Lotte World ⓒLotte World
Lotte World is the perfect magical place in my mind
for this proposal ceremony, and I believe to be hers as well.
planned this to be a shopping trip for my beloved lady Valencia. Truth is,
I had since long planned a proposal to my then-girlfriend, now someone
whom I can proudly address as my fiancée.
We stayed at one of the best shopping areas in Seoul, Myeong-dong. The
shops available sell almost everything that we can think of, from the most
fashionable clothes to the vast array of skincare products for men and
women alike. To top it off, there’re lots of heavenly food around, such as
the infamous Myeongdong Gyoza. Believe us - we’ve been to this place
for our meals at least 3 times during our stay.Yes it’s that good.
Although we know we could satisfy most of our shopping desires in
Myeong-dong alone, I know this trip wouldn’t be complete without
visiting other areas in town. We went on to other shopping havens such
as Dongdaemun Market, where we can literally shop till we drop since
it’s open till 4a.m. in the morning, Ewha Womans University area where
fashion goods are sold at reasonable prices, and Hongik University
shopping area as well, where we visited the renowned Coffee Prince
Café. To take a break from the non-stop shopping endeavours we had,
we visited Samcheong-dong – this place is simply marvellous. Despite
the upslope walk sometimes, we found it totally enjoyable. We were
amazed at how well they’ve maintained residential estates of traditional
Korean houses and the peace and serenity of this place.
Soon, the big day arrived, 28th May 2011 – the day which I planned
my proposal for my then-darling with Mr. Shin from Lotte World. Prior
to this trip, we’ve been communicating via emails and calls to finalize
details, and to make sure all preparation is complete. This is also the first
time we’ve visited Lotte 88 in the middle of the audience seats. With the
support from the sweet host, I felt boosted with courage to stand up on
the float and looking around for my boyfriend, anxiously.
The dancers stepped down from the float and started dancing to the
music on the ground. I was swaying to the music along with the host till
a surprising slideshow was screened.
There it was the photo of us - my partner and me. Tears of joy burst
out uncontrollably as I listened attentively to the speech delivered by
Min Siang. Even though, the wordings were in Korean, the screams of
happiness from the crowd was exhilarating. The host was looking at me
intensely and said to me - "ah... Our future lady..." sending excitement
to me.
When the slideshow is over, he walks out with fresh pink roses and the
proposal ring. My heart was in a flutter and tears refused to stop flowing
out. The cheering from the crowd made me feel like a blushing bride.
Mr. Shin and his crew were busy snapping photos of us as Min Siang
came forth to me.
"will you marry me?"
How could any girl resist such a pleasant surprise proposal? Almost
immediately, I saw the smiles on everyone face and knew that they share
the same feeling as me. I nodded and blushed. He came onboard and
joined me. Many photos were taken for us to keep as fond memories.
The videographer has been very professional in taking down the entire
proposal.
132
133
The float brought us to a restaurant where we have a mini march in
with the dancers lined up at both sides of the entrance. Friendly and
approachable Mr. Shin was in great smiles when the proposal was
successful. Guiding us to our table was Mr. Shin and the crew, not
forgetting Lotty and Lorry - the perfect couple mascots that have
been so spontaneous in participating in the surprise planned by the
management and my boyfriend.
28th May 2011 - a day we will never forget. A day where I have received
many well wishes from the amicable locals. A day where I had my
memorable proposal - that made me feel like a royal princess.
Thank you Lotte world, Mr. Shin and the team, the crowd who
witnessed the proposal for your warm greetings.
The following day came when we had to say goodbye to Korea, where
we have had so much fun, laughter, joy and magical moments. We were
once again reluctant to leave and really can’t wait till we visit again, for
we know how much this place amazes us and more importantly, this is
the place we’ll always remember for our perfect proposal.
Reason why I chose to propose in Korea
First of all, we love this place since our first visit to the place. Secondly,
I know my fiancée has always loved sweet memories and would want to
have a magical and memorable proposal. I, too, want to give her a very
sweet and pleasant proposal. Most important of all, I want to make her
feel like a princess on this very magical day. Having the proposal set in
a theme park, to me, is a very magical event, and even more so, Lotte
World is one of the best theme parks I’ve seen from all my research done
online and I’m truly amazed and proved my point correct when I visited
this place. So Lotte World is the perfect magical place in my mind for this
proposal ceremony, and I believe to be hers as well. (Published July 15th, 2011)
Look Inside!
Romantic Spots in SEOUL
Falling in love is very easy in Seoul. With a population of over 10 million, Seoul has more romantic spots than
anywhere else in the world. Amusement parks like Lotte World, observatories, parks, and other romantic places
are always filled with couples in love.
Night View of the Hangang River ⓒKTO
Loop Restaurant at the N Tower Seoul ⓒKTO
N Seoul Tower
63 City Observatory
Standing atop Namsan Mountain, the N Seoul Tower
The bright and colorful night scene of the skyscrapers
offers a spectacular view of the city. The view of the sun
along the Hangang River is stunning. That is why the 63 City
setting over the Hangang River, and skyscrapers lighting
Observatory is a popular date location. The observatory on
up the city at night, it just couldn’t get any prettier. The
the 60th floor is 264 m above sea level. The “Love Elevator”
restaurant rotates a full 360 degrees every 48 minutes
is another romantic feature of the 63 City.
so that where ever you sit, you can see the entire city
Address 60 Yeouido-dong, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul
in front of you. On the outdoor observatory, couples
Web 63.co.kr
secured their love by hanging a lock on the fence, and
throwing the key over the fence.
Address 1-3 Yongsan-dong 2-ga, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Web nseoul
tower.com
Hangang Park
Seoul’s Hangang Park is favorite date and outing
area. You can enjoy the cool breeze of the Hangang
River while on a yacht or a duck peddle boat. If you’re
Proposal Wall at Cheonggyecheon Stream
the adventurous type, water skiing, wakeboarding,
Along Cheonggyecheon Stream, is a guaranteed
or other water sports are also available. You can
proposal site. You can make reservations at their
also plan your romantic proposal here. Contact the
Website (propose.sisul.or.kr), and there is a large
Website for detailed information.
screen where you can show videos or photos. About a
Address [ Yeouido Hangang Par k] 8 Yeouido - dong,
third of the couples who fell in love here, have walked
Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul, [Nanji District] 487-257 Sangam-
down the aisle.
Address 540 Majang-dong, Seongdong-gu, Seoul Web propose.
sisul.or.kr
dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul, [Jamsil District] 1-1 Jamsil-dong,
Songpa-gu, Seoul Web hangang.seoul.go.kr
134
| K-pop Live |
135
Rain’s CD cover ⓒSMW
Elementary English teacher during week,
K-pop fanatic
on weekends
Big Bang poster ⓒSMW
5 years ago I stumbled upon a K-POP video while on Youtube. It was
Rain’s “I’m Coming.” My first reaction was “Whoa! What was that?!”
My second reaction was intense curiosity. Seconds later, I began searching
the Internet to learn more about Rain. It didn’t take long for me to fall
in love with K-POP.
I love K-POP because of the catchy beats, the innovative music videos,
the amazing concerts, the handsome guys and beautiful girls, the talented
singers and mostly because I appreciate the hard work it takes to
become successful. K-POP groups and singers are extremely dedicated
to constantly improving themselves. I also love K-POP because fans get
to know their favorite idols, singers and groups very well thanks to TV
performances, TV shows, concerts and fan meets. My favorite groups and
singers are JYJ, Rain, DBSK (TVXQ), Big Bang, SHINEE, 2AM, FT
Island, BEAST, Afterschool, KARA, 2NE1, MBLAQ, Park Hyo-shin, Seo
In-guk, Se7en, Navi, and Clazziquai.
K-POP is special because it combines Korean lyrics with catchy English
phrases. International fans might not know the Korean lyrics at first,
but they can sing along with the English lyrics. K-POP is also unique
Alia Rachel Jones
Born 1988 in the U.S., Jones studied Cultural Anthropology at Cornell. She’s been
teaching English at an elementary school in Daegu since 2010. She likes listening
to k-pop, enjoys Lolita fashion, sawing and making beaded accessories. She’s an
English teacher by day and a k-pop fanatic by night.
Neon sticks I used at K-pop star concerts ⓒAlia Rachel Jones
136
137
2AM CD ⓒSMW
MBLAQ CD ⓒSMW
because the songs are very vibrant and the idols have irresistible charm
and charisma (김준수짱!).
Thanks to the Internet and fans that translate Korean song lyrics and
post videos, I was able to learn about Korean music. K-POP is now a
global phenomenon because of fans around the world that share a love
for Korea’s talented singers and groups. The ease of sharing media and
information globally enables anyone to become a K-POP fan now. I
spent my college years watching K-POP videos and reading English
K-POP blogs. This helped me feel connected to my favorite groups even
though I was living thousands of miles away in the United States.
K-POP is a powerful tool for cultural exchange. K-POP was the main
reason why I started to have an interest in Korean culture. In college,
as an Anthropology major, I was excited about learning about different
cultures. Because I loved K-POP so much, I started to watch Korean
dramas and films, I enrolled in Korean history and culture classes, I went
to “Korea Nights,” I went to samulnori performances, I saw traditional
Korean dances, I ate kimchi in the dining hall, and I became interested in
Korean language. I hung posters of DBSK and Rain in my dorm room
and constantly answered questions like “Why do you like Korean music
so much?” My answer was always, “Because it is awesome. You should
try listening to it.” Then I would give them a list of K-POP singers and
show them music videos.
In my senior year of college, I won a Fulbright grant to teach English
in Korea. I wanted to come to Korea because of my Korean studies and
cultural anthropology backgrounds, my strong interest in early childhood
development and because it was a chance to experience Korean culture.
I also saw it as an opportunity to finally experience K-POP live. I’ve
been living in Korea for a year now as an elementary school teacher.
K-POP helps me connect with my students because they love it just as
much as I do! My life in Korea has been a mix of daily interaction with
my students and co-teachers and running to Seoul on the weekends for
K-POP concerts.
I’ve gone to 14 K-POP concerts since last August: Park Hyo-shin “Gift
2”, the Hallyu Dream Festival, FT Island’s “Beautiful Journey”, “JYJ
The Beginning Worldwide Concert in Seoul”, Asia Song Festival/
G20 Concert 2010, YG Family Concert 2010, Clazziquai Christmas
Eve Concert in Daegu, 2AM “Saint O’Clock”, Rain “Adieu! 2010”,
SHINEE the 1st Concert in Seoul (both days), B2ST’s “Welcome Back
to B2ST Airlines”, BIG BANG’s 2011 BIG SHOW, and the 2011 Dream
Concert. Also, I am an official “Cloud” (Rain’s Fan Club).
While living in Korea, my life has been very much intertwined with
K-POP and I wouldn’t have it any other way. K-POP is a major part of
Korean popular culture and each concert that I’ve attended has been an
amazing display of fan loyalty, excitement and heartfelt enthusiasm. Being
a part of a sea of glow-sticks and learning the fan-chants, or being down
on the ground floor amidst the screaming fans trying to desperately get
closer to the singers, creates unforgettable memories. K-POP has been a
part of my life for a long time and it will continue to be. I will ALWAYS
KEEP THE FAITH. (Published August 12th, 2011)
138
139
Look Inside!
Ardent Fan Culture of Korea
Stars and their fans can’t be separated. Korea, the home of K-pop, probably has the most passionate and dedicated
fan culture in the world. Although the large crowds of fan around the world have caused some trouble, in recent
years, fans go beyond yelling and cheering for their star. A whole new culture of fans has arrived.
Ageless Fans
Live Shows
About 10 years ago, the crowds of people
Meeting your favorite star is not so easy. But
following the stars were usually teenaged
you can see a free shows and performances
girls. But in recent years, the age and gender
of singers by going to television show
of fans has no barriers. These older “big
recordings. You can request tickets online.
brother” and “big sister” fan groups have
For dates and availability, check the Websites
become a protective ring around their stars.
below.
Colorful Fan Clubs
[SBS Music Trend] (Inki Gayo) (Sundays 3:40p.m.,
Each fan club in Korea has its own distinct
Live) Web tv.sbs.co.kr/gayo
co.kr/2tv/enter/musicbank
sapphire blue and Girls’ Generation’ color is
[Mnet M Countdown] (Thursdays 6:00p.m., Live)
a pastel pink. Even in large concerts, you can
Web mnet.mnet.com/NProgram/mcountdown2
differentiate the fan clubs by the color of
balloons. Because it is so easy to tell whose
fan club it is, the fan culture has become more
orderly and mannerly.
The Evolving Fan Culture
In previous years, fandom was proved by how
much they loved their stars. But in recent
years that has changed. Today’s fan clubs do
volunteer work, donations and such in the
name of their stars and their fan club. The
negative image these fans used to have is
gradually changing to a positive energy and
culture.
“2012 K-pop Cover Dance Festival” finalists from around the world and citizens of Korea
performing K-pop flashmob featuring Psy’s Gangnam Style at the Gwanghwamun Plaza ⓒVKC
[KBS Music Bank] (Fridays 6:10p.m., Live) Web kbs.
color. For instance, TVXQ’s color is a pearly
[MBC Show Music Core] (Show Eumak Jungsim)
(Saturdays 4:00p.m., Live) Web imbc.com/broad/tv/
ent/musiccore
140
| Tour of the Korean Night Life |
141
Partying at clubs, noraebang,
DVDbang, then relaxing at a jjimjilbang
Christina Ritts decided to settle in Korea after experiencing the country's nightlife.
Ritts said that the Korean nightlife, including the flashing lights, crowds of people,
loud music and energy, is like no other.
I still remember my first night in Korea. Flashing lights, crowds of people,
loud music and energy like no other filled the bustling streets. It was like
the streets of Korea came alive at night. I was surprised by all the busyness
that was happening around me at 3:00 in the morning. I was even more
surprised that it lasted until 7:00 in the morning. In America, most
everything closes at about 1:00a.m. Experiencing this first night in Korea
was a culture shock to me, but in a good way. One of the reasons why I’m
still in Korea three years later is because of the nightlife here. I’ve traveled
to many countries, and I have to say, the Korean nightlife is like no other. Where I’m from in New Jersey, there is a big Korean population. There are
many Korean restaurants, stores and marts. At times, when I would walk
into a restaurant, I would see people with bottles of soju. I knew soju was
Korea’s most popular alcoholic beverage and was a great way to taste the
authenticity of Korea, but I actually never tried it until I came to Korea.
Christina Ritt
Born 1984 in the U.S., Ritt came to Korea in 2009 to see her sister. She was initially
planning to stay only a month, but one month became two, then three, and now it’s
been three years. Her hobby is learning K-pop dance moves, and she learned Korean
while teaching English to elementary school students. Currently, she is traveling
around Korea.
Night life ⓒChristina Ritt
142
143
The first time I tried soju, it tasted similar to vodka, except with a lighter
taste. It was good, but what I really became addicted to and still am today
is fruit soju! Fruit soju is my favorite drink in Korea, and is basically soju
mixed with fruit juice. There are a lot of flavors, such as pineapple, lemon,
blueberry, kiwi and even yogurt. They are all so delicious, but I prefer
strawberry soju the most! It tends to be a ‘girly’ type of drink because it’s
pretty sweet, and at times I have to be careful how much I drink because
it can taste like sweet juice. Here in Korea, you can’t drink soju without
playing drinking games. It’s part of their culture. Some of the most popular
drinking games played are ‘Baskin Robbins 31’, ‘Chopsticks’ and ‘Bottlecap’.
These are only a few out of many games played here. When walking into
a hof or a bar, it is common to see people of all ages (legal) shouting, full
of energy and acting enthusiastically. The people around them do not care
because they are probably acting the same way, and it’s perfectly normal.
Koreans really know how to have a good time, and now I can’t drink my
strawberry soju without playing a few drinking games.
The true beauty of Korea are the illuminating views at night. One of the
most spectacular views I’ve seen is the Hangang River night view in Seoul.
The colors of the water sparkle and the city as a whole become magnified.
The view of N Seoul Tower and Banpodaegyo bridge are some of the sites
that light up and make the city shine like a gem. As I was capturing the
essence of the view, I thought to myself, “This would make a perfect date
place if I had a boyfriend”. I looked around me and saw many couples
laying on their blankets looking into the scenery, and I felt a little envious.
I knew I wanted to come back here with my future boyfriend. It truly
is an amazing and romantic place to take your loved one, and is really
a memorable experience no matter who you are with. An even more
amazing experience is to actually be part of the night scenery in Seoul.The
Hangang River ferry cruise is an enchanting and magical evening trip that
is unforgettable. The most popular ferry port to depart from is in Yeouido.
The ferry flows through the middle of Seoul on the Hangang River.
Feeling the gentle breeze and seeing the serene atmosphere makes one
feel so peaceful. My first summer in Korea, I went on the Hangang River
ferry cruise with my sister, and we both enjoyed every minute of it. The
63CITY building and the Jamsil Sports Complex are some of the many
famous tourist spots we saw. On the ferry, there is live music and a buffet
Enjoying the exciting nightlife of Korea with my sister
ⓒChristina Ritt
for everyone to enjoy. One of the most spectacular moments was when we
saw the sunset. The city glowed and everyone on the ferry was taken back
by how even more beautiful the city became. Overall, the Hangang River
ferry cruise was breathtaking and a highlight of our evening.
Usually when I’m up for a night out with friends, I go to the edgy parts
of Seoul, such as Hongik University District or Gangnam Area. These
hot spots are filled with bars, clubs, cafes and shops on every street. There
are a wide range of dance clubs with hip hop music, techno music, and
even places to watch live music. I’m the type of person that can dance the
night away! So naturally, I discovered many dance clubs in both Hongik
144
145
At a noraebang (singing room) ⓒChristina Ritt
University District and Gangnam Area. Some of my favorite clubs include
NB, Eden and Club Naked. What’s funny is the first time I stepped into
a club here, everyone was facing the D.J. In America, everyone dances all
over the place, facing all directions. I was very curious about it so I asked
my friend, but she didn’t know either. Till this day, it still remains a bit of
a mystery to me, but I do know Koreans love to dance and really express
themselves through music. If I ever need a break from dancing, and usually
I do after dancing for hours and hours, I go to a bar or restaurant , which
are usually filled with people up until the early morning. Even at 5:00
in the morning, people line up at the food vendors to munch on some
topokki (Small cylinder rice cakes with a spicy red sauce) and eomuk (Fish
cakes on s stick). One of the first words I learned in Korean was “bang”, which translates to
‘room’. In Korea, many activities revolve around rooms, such as karaoke
rooms, DVD rooms and saunas. And many of these rooms are open
twenty-four-seven. Koreans love to sing, and in my opinion, are quite
good at it. I think they can sing well due to the numerous karaoke rooms
everywhere in Korea. I can spot about 10 karaoke rooms on one street, and
sometimes, even more. I am not much of a singer, so at times, I tend to get
a bit nervous singing in front of my friends. But I realized nobody really
cares if you’re good or not. What I like most about karaoke in Korea is that
it’s private. The only people you sing in front of are the people you came
with. In America, karaoke is where one sings in front of the whole facility,
and can be quite embarrassing from what I have heard from my friends.
If up for a movie night, there is always a DVD room near by. Whoever
you’re with, friends, family, boyfriend or girlfriend, it’s great to catch a
movie on a big screen in your own private room, while sitting or laying
down comfortably on a big sofa. There are even drinks and food you can
purchase. DVD rooms have an array of movies to rent from, so there is a
movie for everyone. I go to a DVD bang at least once a month, because
there’s nothing like this in America, and I think the whole idea of having
your own private movie room is awesome. Even though many Koreans say
DVD bangs are mostly for couples, for intimate reasons, I think it’s a fun
and relaxing place to spend with friends or family. Usually after a fun night
Hongik Univ. Street ⓒKTO
146
147
out, I like to go to a jjimjilbang (sauna). A jjimjilbang is a place to sleep, relax,
and experience a bath like no other. One can’t leave Korea without visiting
a jjimjilbang. Whether going just for the experience or just tired from a
long night out and can’t afford to take a taxi home at 4:00 in the morning,
one can always stay at a jjimjilbang for a cheap price. The average price is
around 8,000-12,000 won. I enjoy getting a scrub, massaged and soaking
in a variety of baths. If I could, I would go to a jjimjilbang everyday! Korea is really a country that doesn’t sleep. Whether looking for a romantic
night out or a place to catch up with friends, nightlife in Korea can be
for everyone. With such a variety of diverse entertainment, the Korean
nightlife is an experience one can’t ever forget. I think I can remember
most every night out in Korea because I always have such a great time.
Korea’s interesting and lively nightlife is truly an impressive and remarkable
one. I am looking forward to having many more memorable nights and to
continue sharing the wonderful experiences I have had here in Korea.
(Published August 20th, 2011)
Look Inside!
A Guide to Korean “Bang”
Although translated to ‘room’ in English, the Korean bang has a different connotation. In Korean bang refers
to an area where a group of people can share their lives. Recently, many multi-purposed bangs have surfaced.
Unique ‘play rooms’ are especially popular among the young crowd.
Rooms, how to have fun?
Why rooms?
Used to a communal lifestyle, Koreans enjoy spending
It’s easy to have fun at these “bang.” It’s all in the name.
time together. In the olden days, scholars would
At a PCbang, you use the computer, at a singing
gather in a room and read together and chat. This
room, you sing without having to worry about people
tradition has evolved into the “bang” culture of today.
looking at you. All you have to do to have fun a “room”
These rooms aren’t just for communicating with
is do that the name tells you.
friends, but it is also a place of bonding.
A Guide to Jjimjilbang
Which “bang ” should I go to?
First, you have to pay, and then they’ll give a uniform
The 3 most representative “bang” of Korean include
and towels. There are different men’s and women’s
the noraebang, where you can sing any your
sections. You start by taking a quick shower, then
favorite songs; the jjimjilbang, a Korean style sauna;
change into the jjimjilbang clothes. You should start
and the PCbang, or internet cafe. There are also
with the lower temperature rooms. In between rooms
sojubang, where you can sit for shot of soju with
go to the ice room to cool off, an enjoy an ice cold jug
friends, and DVDbang, where you can watch DVDs.
of sikhye, rice punch, and eggs. Other favorite snacks
Beside entertainment focused rooms, there are also
include persimmon vinegar, miyeokguk (seaweed
noribang, which is similar to a daycare, gongbubang,
soup), or naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles).
or study rooms, sleeping rooms, oxygen rooms,
Inside the jjimjilbang, there are nail salons, massage
kneading rooms, and much more.
chairs, TVs, and more.
Noraebang ⓒKTO
Jjimjilbang ⓒKTO
148
| Exploring the Alleys of Seoul |
149
Experience the Depth of Seoul
in the Small Alleys
Between the Tall Buildings
Cheongpa-dong ⓒRobert Koehler
On Sunday, I was wandering about the Cheongpa-dong neighborhood,
exploring its labyrinth of hillside alleyways that overlook the densely
packed homes and apartments of Yongsan-gu. One of Seoul’s most typical
golmok-gil, or alleyway walks, Cheongpa-dong is like walking back in
time to the days before high-rises and skyscrapers dominated the skyline.
During the Japanese colonial era, it was a favored by Japanese settlers as
a residential district; hidden in its alleys, one can still find a few exotic
Japanese homes from the 1920s or 1930s, their stucco walls and Japanesestyle roofs contrasting sharply with the latter constructions that surround
them. After Korea’s liberation from colonial rule in 1945, wealthy Koreans
moved into the neighborhood; some acquired the homes left behind by
the Japanese, while others built Korean-style hanok homes, some of which
still stand. After the Korean War, as Korea began to develop, many parts
of the district were renovated or redeveloped to use as clothing factories,
taking advantage of the proximity of Namdaemun Market. The houses,
too, began to change—in the 1970s, residents began building brick and
concrete stand-alone houses, or munhwa jutaek (modern house). Once one
of Seoul’s most affluent neighborhoods—something of the Apgujeongdong of its day—it is now very much a working-class district, albeit one
that is an outdoor museum of the city’s modern history.
One small but very special piece of this history is hidden in an alleyway
just off the main street of the bustling Malli Market. A seemingly
ramshackle building of mixed Japanese and Korean style, the Seongwoo
Yiyongwon is Korea’s oldest surviving barber shop. A virtual national
treasure, Lee Nam-yeol has been cutting hair for 47 years; his grandfather,
only Korea’s second licensed barber, founded the establishment in 1927.
Little has changed over the years—even the glass in the windows, some of
it held together by tape, is original. Depending on when you go, you may
have to wait—word of mouth, and some write-ups in the national press,
brings customers from throughout Seoul and even from outside the city,
and Lee, even the perfectionist, does not rush his art. Still, waiting is part
of the experience—like any good barber, Lee is quite the conversationalist,
and the sound of his dancing sheers is positively entrancing. “They played
the sound of my scissors three times on the radio,” notes Lee with a smile.
It’s neighborhoods such as this one that make Seoul such a fascinating
place to live. It is frequently said that despite its 600 years of history as
Korea’s capital, Seoul lacks the same kind of charm as other historic cities
around the world. While undoubtedly less true that it used to be, the
criticism was not completely without basis—Japanese imperialism, the
Korean War and development-era urban redevelopment had irrevocably
changed the face of Seoul, destroying much of the city’s historic and
cultural heritage. To many, the city seemed little more than an uninspiring
gray mass of ugly concrete apartments and steel and glass towers.
Robert Koehler
Born 1974 in the U.S., Robert Koehler came to Korea in 1997 as an English teacher in Mungyeong-si,
Gyeongsangbuk-do. Six years later, he moved to Seoul for a job at Seoul Selection, a publishing company
that focuses on books promoting the Korean culture worldwide. In 2009, he wrote the Seoul Selection Guide
based on his 13 year Korean experience, for which he won the “Best Foreign Journalist award at the Seoul
Tourism Awards 2010. He is currently the editor of the monthly travel and culture magazine, Seoul.
150
151
I confess that I, too, initially shared this sentiment. I spent my first years
in Korea in the picturesque and heritage-rich countrysides of southern
Korea; after getting a job as a translator for a national newspaper, I moved
to Seoul, but not without a sense of trepidation. To be sure, Seoul was a
convenient place to live with fine shops, good schools, decent Western
restaurants and—more to the point—better employment and career
opportunities. But would I be happy here? Was not Seoul, in the end, a
concrete jungle, with little in the way of spirit, history or soul?
Seoul’s a funny place, though—the city grows on you. They say the more
you know about something, the more lovable it becomes, and that’s
certainly the case with Seoul. True, the tragedies suffered by the city
throughout its modern history robbed it of much of its architectural and
cultural heritage. But not all of it. Indeed, a surprising amount of the
Seoul’s history still survives under a skyline of concrete, glass and steel. In
every neighborhood, we can find fascinating and often beautiful pieces
of the city’s past. Some pieces of this heritage, like the five royal palaces
or Bukchon Hanok Village, are obvious and visited by all. Much of the
city’s heritage, however, is hidden away in little-visited alleyways in places
like Cheongpa-dong or hidden in plain sight, with millions passing by
daily but few recognizing their true value.
Not far from where I live, for example, on a high school campus secluded in
a back alley just past Yongsan Electronic Mart, is a small red and gray brick
church on a hill that once overlooked the Hangang River. It’s an incredibly
atmospheric place, an oasis of tranquility in the heart of the metropolis. Few
people could even tell you that it’s there, however, let alone that it’s over a
century old, or that it was built by the same French priest who built the
more famous Myeong-dong Catholic Cathedral. But its this anonymity
what lends the church, and so much of Seoul, its particular charm.
I’ve lived in Seoul for over eight years. I’ve spent much of that time
exploring the cities nooks and crannies, scouring its alleys, mountains and
riversides for pieces of its history and culture. I’ve even written a guidebook
to the city. There are times when I think I’ve seen it all, but hardly a week
goes by without me discovering a new treasure I didn’t know about,
or a new aspect to a favorite destination. As I sip a cup of coffee in Lee
Nam-yeol’s barber shop, enjoying the sweet music of the artists’ scissors, I
contemplate the beauty of this truly special city. (Published February 3rd, 2012)
Look Inside!
Newly Renovated Alleys of Seoul
Seoul changes every day. Old buildings are demolished and new buildings come in, and new apartments are
raised in small towns. As urbanization continues, many small alleys are on the verge of disappearing. But still,
there are a few places in Seoul where you can see and feel history.
Ihwa-dong Mural Village ⓒKTO
Ihwa-dong Mural Village ⓒKTO
Ihwa-dong Mural Village
Hongje-dong Ant Village
Samseon-dong Long Life Village
This is a representative daldongne
This is a cluster of small houses
Located between Seoul Fortress
(literally “moon village” for being
located by the entrance of the
and Hansung University is
a poor village on a hill close to
I nwa n g s a n M o u nt a i n h i k i n g
Samseon Park. Stairs, alleys and
the moon) close to the young
trail. The hardworking people of
an embankment surrounding
and lively Street of Youth in the
this village are often compared
the park form this village. The
Daehangno area. Located on
to hardworking ants, hence the
houses are lined along the steep
the hills of Naksan Mountain,
name of the village. Many small
hill that stretches toward the
downtown Seoul can be seen
alleys stem from the main street
Seoul Fortress Wall. Students
from this village. In 2006, the
of the village, and young ar t
o f H a n s u n g U n i ve r s i t y h ave
“Public Art Project” began the
students have decorated the walls
colorfully decorated the walls of
renovation of Ihwa-dong. Over
of the village. Love and affection
the village. The murals portray the
70 young artists painted murals
can be felt in the alleys of Ant
young energy and enthusiasm of
on walls and installed art works
Village.
the students. Many tourists visit
throughout the village. Flowers
Address Hongje-dong, Seodaemun-
this village to catch a glimpse of
decorate the stairways and a maze
gu, Seoul
this cute village.
of alleys have turned this old
Address Samseon-dong 1-ga, Seong
village into a new art village full of
buk-gu, Seoul
life and energy.
Address Ihwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
152
| Korean Popular Music |
153
I got to know Korean songs through
Chu Ga-yeoul,
and felt the Korean ‘jeong’ through
Shim Su-bong
How do you like Korea? A question that I have been faced with since
I arrived to Seoul in October 2010 to set up the embassy after almost
49 good years of diplomatic relations between our two countries. That
October Seoul was the host of the G20 Summit and our offices were
initially set up at Lotte Hotel Seoul in downtown’s Myeong-dong.
Traffic in the capital is never easy, so I thought to myself, how would it
be possible to move around 20 heads of states and their entourage and
what have you in such conditions? The Korean Government issued a
plea to the people to use public transportation during the Summit. I was
amazed how the public responded graciously and traffic was actually
much smoother. Hence, my first developed impression on Korea that its
people are really dedicated and responsible. They are also kind, supportive
and helpful – especially to strangers.
Living in Seoul for the past year and a half, I find it amazing how family
and friendship values and respect is maintained given the fact that life
in this well developed, advanced and colourful country can be very fast.
Maintaining the deep rooted heritage and presenting a shiny image of
Korea in all aspects is something I feel almost everyone in this great
nation is committed to contributing to. Hat’s off...
Music, soul food, is also something that Koreans have developed a great
taste for. I have had the pleasure of experiencing traditional Korean
music performances and Korean pop songs that are becoming an
international phenomenon really and simply a pleasure to experience.
In Seoul today, I enjoy Korean songs, and try to learn the lyrics as well,
in a bid to increase the volume of my Korean word pile and get a better
understanding or a sense of what really matters to our friends here.
Songs I really came to appreciate in Korea are by Ms. Shim Soo-bong,
for example, and by Mr. Chu Ga-yeoul, who I now know personally
I am happy to add. I first heard one of his songs being played by a live
band at Lotte, the title “나 같은 건 없는 건가요.(Is There No Room for
Chu Ga-yeoul 3rd Album
ⓒOmar Al-Nahar
Omar Al-Nahar
Born 1969 in Jordan, Omar Al-Nahar learned English through pop music. He studied politics and business
administration in Jordan and started his jobs at the Jordan Ministry of Foreign Affairs in 1992. In October
of 2010 he was the first Ambassador of Jordan to be appointed to Korea. As he was preparing the opening
of the Jordan Embassy in Seoul, he became interest in Korean song after hearing Chu Ga-yeoul’s songs. He
liked Korean songs so much that he installed a karaoke machine at the embassy and improved his Korean
by singing Korean songs.
Chu Ga-yeoul 3rd Album
Titled "There are Different Ways to Happiness,"
Chu Ga-yeoul's 3rd album contains "나 같은 건 없는 건가요.(Is There No Room For Me?)"
Ambassador Omar Al-Nahar has Chu's signed CD, and he still sings along Chu's songs
downloaded on his iphone.
154
155
Me?)” The song’s beat, the rhythm, is quite fresh and captivating at the
same time and really got me curious about Korean music.
Look Inside!
When I asked about the singer someone told said Chu Ga-yeoul. What
came to mind almost instantly was that I really wanted to meet this Chu
Ga-yeoul to thank him for the music... A few weeks later it so happened
that I was having dinner with a good doctor friend of mine from Seoul
National University Hospital who offered to make the introduction
since, he told me, he knows Mr. Chu and that held a charity performance
at his hospital before. Not too long after I had the pleasure of meeting
Mr. Chu and we had a good night out with friends. He, unsurprisingly,
enchanted us with his crystal like voice. To my mind, he is a great singer,
a magnificent guitarist and composer and truly noteworthy. People
sing his songs all the time, and although initially I did not know what
the song is about, it got me hooked to Korean songs that I am always
happily sharing with Korean and other friends. A most effective tool of
communication, if I may add, especially in the absence of my Korean
language skills...
Top 10 Songs Koreans Love
To Koreans reading this, your Republic has something good to offer to
the world in many aspects than what meets the eye really by virtue of its
people, their commitment and strive towards a better way life. May you
prosper...
In 2011, a list of the Top 10 most loved Korean songs was released. In memory of the 46th anniversary of Korean
FM radio, the Korea Broadcasting System surveyed 26,272 radio listeners. The No. 1 song was “Gwanghwamun
Yeonga (Gwanghwamun Sonata)” released over 20 years ago.
Learn Korean Through <Gwanghwamun Sonata> Even though time has changed everything without a trace,
the Deoksugung Palace Stonewall Road still has couples walking hand in hand. Even though we too will be
gone with time, down the hill on Jeongdong-gil A snow-covered church will still remain. When my heart longs
for the flowery scents of May, to the snowy Gwanghwamun Intersection I come again.
No. 1. Gwanghwamun Sonata
(Gwanghwamun Yeonga )
song of the Seo Taiji & Boys. This
Ballad released in 1988 by Lee
began the hip-hop craze in Korea.
How do you like Korea? I simply love it… (Published March 16
, 2012)
No. 8. Candy
This was the title song of H.O.T’s first
Moon-sae. The lyrics portray the
romantic atmosphere of area
No. 5. Morning Dew (Achim Iseul )
album release in 1996. H.O.T. started
between Deoksugung Palace and
This was the debut song of folk
the boy-band craze in Korea.
Gwanghwamun Gate.
singer Yang Hee-eun in 1970. This
No. 2. My Love, By My Side
(Nae Sarang Nae Gyeotae )
Released in 1991, this is the last
th
superstar with this song.
3-member band was a sensation and
song Kim Hyun-shik, who died
was an era when young voices
No. 9. Gee
wanted to be heard. And this song
This is the 2009 hit song of the
put Korean music at a top level.
world-famous girl group Girls’
Generation. Their colorful skinny
only months after the release.
No. 6. Come Back to Busanhang
Port (Dorawayo Busanhangeh )
You can feel his love for singing
This was a remake of a 1970s song
through his voice.
titled “Come Back to Chungmuhang
Port” Cho Yong-pil sang the song in
No. 3. Because I Love You
(Saranghagi Ttaemunae )
jeans and cute choreography
stole the hearts of fans worldwide
through UCCs.
1975 and became a national song
No. 10. Dance with D.O.C.
(D.O.C. wa Hamkkae Chumeul )
that even spread to Japanese fans.
This was a 1997 hit song of the
Released in 1987, Yu Jae-ha was
dynamic hip-hop trio DJ DOC. This
a genius singer-song writer he
No. 7. To J (Jey Ege )
song got the whole country doing
was killed in a car accident after
This was the Grand Prize winning
the “bus driver dance.” Everyone
releasing only one album. This
song at the 1984 Gangbyeon
automatically stretched their arms
song is about himself.
Song Festival sung by Lee Sun-
as if holding the driving wheel of
hee. The words depict the sweet
a bus and moving side to side.
No. 4. I know (Nan Arayo )
love about a person with the
Release in 1992, this was the title
initial J. Lee Sun-hee became a
156
| Busan's Sajik Baseball Park |
157
While Screaming for the “Busan Galmaegi”
I too became
a Citizen of Busan
Busan Sajik Stadium ⓒJoongAng Daily
Matthew Ambrosia
Born 1976 in Texas, Ambrosia met Korean friends in graduate school. He was
introduced to Korean food and culture through his friends, and the more he knew,
the more he wanted to know. His first trip to Korea was in September of 2001 for
a mission trip, and 4 years later he finished his doctorate degree at Pusan National
University. As of 2012, he is a professor at the Catholic University of Pusan.
I’m one of those guys from the other side of the world. Though,
sometimes it feels like I’m completely from another world. I even have
the card to prove it. I’m a registered alien. Moving to a different country
exposes us to many new experiences. And while some hit me negatively
and took time to get used to, others were surprisingly refreshing. I caught
myself saying, “Why don’t we do things like this in Texas?” For example,
one of those was eating out of the same stew bowl with others at my
table. It made me feel close to those with me. Even my germaphobe
friend was dipping his spoon in the same stew bowl with me before
long. This new world was full of new experiences to have.
Another set of great new experiences were at the ballpark in Sajik-dong.
I like my baseball as much as the next guy, but this was so much more
than just baseball. You may say, “Actually baseball really isn't my thing.”
That's okay. I've met several people who love going to the baseball game
and still don't know the rules. There are many other things that attract
people to baseball games than just baseball. It's like a party. Busan is a
baseball city so fans are really passionate about the Lotte Giants. They
cheer, shout, sing, boo, chant and yell even if they don't know the rules.
In Sajik Baseball Park, you will find the baseball culture found in most
stadiums around the world. But you will also find some very unique
things. Fans don’t only do the wave, but in Sajik-dong they also do a
slow motion wave and there is a special cheer for every player. Many
fans make pompoms out of newspapers to cheer with. And if you're
lucky enough to score some tickets on the first base side you can see the
sexy cheerleaders dance and cheer. It's enough to get any red-blooded
American guy's heart pumping... or any guy for that matter. Other
events between innings keep the fun going like kiss time, dancing king,
and other performances by the cheerleaders and other mascots.
On top of that, here some things that are really unique to Busan baseball.
Near the end of the game stadium officials pass out garbage bags to get
fans involved in helping with the clean-up, but fans fill them with air
and tie them on their heads to show team spirit. And there are many
variations of this too, from huge hair bows to masks to cute, eared hoods
made from garbage bags. The fans will also sing a song of Busan pride,
“Busan Galmaegi.” There is always something going on to keep the fans
involved.
158
159
At the Busan Sajik Stadium with my fiancé ⓒMatthew Ambrosia
One of the first things I noticed about Sajik Baseball Park was all the
vendors outside the stadium selling food and drinks. Can you really buy
food and bring it inside the stadium? Yes, you can! Buy chicken, gimbap,
beer, or pizza in front of the stadium or go to the nearby superstore
get what you want there, but avoid bringing glass containers into the
stadium. And in case you didn't bring enough food, don't worry the food
in the stadium is not too expensive either. Unlike at a MBL game, you
don't have to get a mortgage for a mid-inning snack.
Also the admission is very reasonable. General admission tickets are
only 7,000 won and tickets along the baseline are only 10,000 won.
The average Major League Baseball ticket is now almost $27. And with
those monster stadiums in the west, you still may not be able to see very
well. Sajik Baseball Park only holds 28,000 fans, you are always close to
the action. However, the games on the weekends are often sold out so
you have to get your tickets soon. A Korean friend can help you reserve
tickets online or you can buy general admission tickets up to the day
before the game at Busan Bank.
Most recently I went to a game with my girlfriend. Thanks to a Kim Juchan homerun the Giants jumped to an early lead and held on to win
the game 6-3. It was quite an exciting game. Being at the game was great,
but being with my girlfriend that day was like a dream, so I asked her if
I could live in that dream with her for the rest of my life. Later, I slipped
a ring on my girlfriend's finger. She became my fiancée and agreed to
be my girl forever. She will be our future family’s assistant coach and
will help raise our own team of little baseball players. My fiancée doesn’t
know much about baseball yet. We’ve only started dating this year. But
I know the best place to teach her, Sajik Baseball Park! The Giants won
their game and I won my fiancée's heart. It was a perfect day, a day I will
never forget.
This alien is feeling less and less like an alien and more and more like an
authentic Busan citizen. I've had many exciting, new experiences in Busan,
and I know I will have many more in the future. (Published July 6th, 2012)
Busan Sajik Stadium ⓒMatthew Ambrosia
160
161
Look Inside!
Korean Professional Baseball
and its Passionate Fans
March 27, 1982 is very significant day to Korean baseball fans. March 27th is the birthday of Korean baseball.
Although it has a short history compared to the States, the fans’ passion for the sport is second to none. Baseball
season starts in April and ends in October, and every year eight teams play off.
Batter No. 10
Jamsil Stadium ⓒMr.Koo
There are many other things that attract people to baseball games than just baseball.
It's like a party.
Baseball fanatics dress differently. They
recommends going to see a game at
wear the full uniform from head to toe, and
Busan’s Sajik Baseball Park. First of all, you’ll
they follow the team to home and away
see people wearing orange trash bags every
games. They scream and shout at the top of
way they can: on their heads, as ribbons, as
their lungs and consider themselves as part
t-shirts and more. You’ll also see pompoms
of the team. These devoted fans are called
made of shredded newspaper.
“Batter No. 10.”
Food Comes First
Know the Words
Unlike ball parks in the States, in Korea,
Each team has a cheer song. On critical
you can bring in your own food. The
times, when the team needs help, no
chicken+beer combo is a must at Korean
doubt you’ll hear the bleachers singing
ball parks. The Munhak Stadium in Incheon,
and screaming the team’s song. In you
SK Wiverns’ home park, even has a “Barbecue
don’t want to look like a fool, make sure
Zone” so people can have a bbq while
you know the words to your team’s cheer
watching the game. There is also a “Green
song. Samsung Lions—Daegu Changa; Kia
Zone” where people can bring a spread and
Tigers—Mudeunggol Tigers and Namhaeng
have a picnic on the grass. Each stadium has
Yeolcha; Lotte Giants—Busan Galmaegi; SK
a favorite snack: Seoul’s Jamsil Stadium has
Wiverns—Yeonan Budu; Doosan Bears—Ya,
hamburger and chicken; Gwangju Stadium
ya, ya Doosan and Apartment.
has jokbal (pigs’ trotters); and Daejeon
Stadium has udong.
Cute, Fun and Wacky Cheering
The things you see at Korean ball parks
will shock you. Inflatable sticks, headbands
with athletes’ names, colored handkerchiefs
and boards; these are the normal cheering
instruments you’ll see. If you want to
see a wackier crowd, Matthew Ambrosia
Lotte fans wearing orange trashbags on their heads at Jamsil Stadium ⓒMr.Koo
162
| Incheon International Airport |
163
See the Korean Wisdom
at the Traditional Korean Cultural
Experience Zone
for Transit Travelers
Incheon International Airport ⓒKTO
Han Xiang Ji 韓香子
Born 1983 in China, Han’s first visit to Korea was in 2006. Two years later she started
working at the Beijing airport branch of Korean Airlines as a service instructor. She
was dispatched as the Transit Passengers’ Team at the Incheon Int’l Airport for 6
months. Although she’s back in China now, she still misses Incheon Int’l Airport very
much. She has a great interest in Korea, and the hospitality industry of Korea.
My first visit to Korea was about six years ago by Korean Air. The Cabin
crew offered as ‘beautiful’ service as their beautiful looks. After taking
off, a member of the crew handed an ointment and bandage to me
at the end of in-flight meals. I never asked for them but she sensibly
noticed a cut on my hand, which I had on the day before the trip. I
was so impressed with her thoughtfulness which she could have easily
overlooked as it was so trivial. I still remember the name of the ointment
164
165
and bandage and often buy them when I visit Korea. Good impressions
about Korea remain intact in them and I believe good ties with Korea
may perhaps have started from that incident.
Who said 'Even a person who brushes your sleeve by is predestined by
your karma?'
In 2008, as if by magic, I got a job from Korean Air where my good
memory of Korea started and have worked ever since as a customer
services instructor in the China region. In addition I was lucky enough
to get work in the Incheon International Airport branch office of
Korean Air, for six months on transfer from the beginning of this year
and a chance to reconfirm profundity of karma.
My duty at the transit passenger team is working in the field for the
convenience of passengers travelling to the third country using Incheon
International Airport as a transit port. Although I have worked here
only for five months, it was enough time to experience every aspect
of Incheon International Airport which has been gaining a worldwide
reputation.
shower, restaurants, coffee shops, duty free stores offering a wide selection
of shopping items ranging from inexpensive to famous brands, traditional
Korean cultural experience zone, transfer/transit tour, bookstores and
hotels.
Especially, Incheon International Airport is distinct from other airports
in terms of bringing out Korea’s aesthetic beauty. Promoting inherent
Korean culture delicately, Incheon International Airport has another
advantage of being the first and last place to deliver beautiful memories
about Korea to its customers.
My favorite place in Incheon International Airport is the traditional
Korean cultural experience zone.Visitors can appreciate traditional music
and can make and take away traditional crafts. Is there any better souvenir
from Korea than these? Recently I dropped by the experience zone for
my friend’s wedding gift I drew traditional Korean patterns on a wooden
material provided by the zone and wrote a congratulatory wedding
message with a brush. My friend was over the moon upon receiving my
cordial wedding gift.
From the perspective of an airlines employee working for Incheon
International Airport and as a foreigner, Incheon International Airport always
brings me novelty and wonder. The best service is offered to everyone
regardless of age and gender – Koreans, foreigners, departing/arriving
passengers and transfer/transit passengers – whoever use the airport.
As an airlines crew member, I have used a number of airports in the
world but I think Incheon International Airport is simply top notch by
offering the perfect service in both hardware and software, having been
selected as the world’s best airport for seven consecutive years.
First, Incheon International Airport offers the best convenience
to customers by flexible operation of plenty of immigration desks,
convenient transfer/transit systems, etc, depending on the number of
airport users. In addition, the airport offers a variety of entertainment
and amenities such as lounge, internet facility, kids’ playground, free
Korea Traditional Cultural Experience Center at Incheon International Airport ⓒHan Xiang Ji
166
167
A traditional craft gallery located on the 4th floor of the Departures
Terminal offers traditional Korean sentiment, where I sometimes time
travel. You can feel the very breath of traditional Korean wisdom and
pursuits of beauty can be found in traditional ceramics, agricultural
instruments and apparel of old times.
I developed my own way of using the airport from a number of trips
through Incheon International Airport. When I head for my destination
from China through Incheon International Airport, I drop by the
traditional cultural experience zone. I complete ‘my own unique artwork’
for about 40 minutes, go to a bookstore to buy a travel guide and move
to the lounge on the fourth floor to enjoy the rest of the time at my
leisure.
When I come back from a trip, tired and exhausted, I go to a shower
place. Other international airports do not offer a shower place or charge
even if there is one. When there is plenty of time, I sometimes get a
massage. After recharging myself in body and spirit, I go to a duty free
store to buy various items needed. With all good memories from the
trip and full of shopping bags big and small, boarding an airplane is
putting a ‘period’ to a satisfactory trip.
Look Inside!
The Best Airport in the World for 7 Consecutive
Years, Incheon International Airport
With its opening in 2001, the Incheon Int’l Airport (airport.kr) has since become “the” airport of Korea, and a
major airport of Asia. Every year, the Airport Council International (ACI) conducts the Airport Service Quality test,
and the Incheon Int’l Airport has been voted No. 1 for 7 consecutive years since 2005. This is merely a place of
transport, it is a multi-purpose facility that please all.
Rest, Play and Enjoyment
Over 30 million passengers stop by the Incheon
traditional performances and experience
Int’l Airport yearly. Being the IT country that
programs, are frequented by travelers.
is it, the lounge provides high-speed internet,
Additionally, the Traditional Craft Gallery and
and an IT experience center. There is also a
the Arrival Hall Culture Street at the Transfer
sauna, a playroom, a golf club, and more.
Lounge on the 4th floor of the Passenger
Additionally, there is a skating rink open 365
Terminal are also worth a visit.
days of the year, and a movie theater as well.
Airport Observatory, Joy to the Eyes
All-in-one Convenience
At the Airstar Terrace in the observatory on
The Incheon Int’l Airport offers pretty much
the 4th floor of the Passenger Terminal, you
everything you may need during your stay
can see the busy runways. If you have some
My work on transfer duty at Incheon International Airport is about to
end. Who said, karma is ‘ineffable’? The period when I have worked at
Incheon International Airport as a foreign staff of Korean Air reminds
me of my indescribable and mysterious connection with Korean Air and
Incheon International Airport and their growth will make me happy.
in Korea. You a rent a cellular phone, send a
time to spare, the Oseongsan Observatory on
package or letter home, rent a car, get your
Yeongjongdo Island’s Oseongsan Mountain
hair done, dry cleaning, wash your car, get
is highly recommended. You can the entire
glasses, and if you don’t feel good, there’s
airport from here, and road that stretches
also a hospital and a pharmacy. There is also
from the parking lot to the observatory offers
a prayer room that can be used by anyone
a spectacular view of nature. It’s 20 minutes
(Published July 20th, 2012)
regardless of religion. And of course, there is a
from the airport by car.
business center.
Experiencing the Korean Culture
For first time travelers to Korea, the airport
the cultural facilities at the airport couldn’t be
any more useful. The Korean Culture Museum,
which is co-operated with the National
Museum of Korea, and the Traditional Culture
Experience Zone, which provides various
168
| Train Journey |
169
Every time I hear the chimney whistle of a train, I will have a sudden
urge to go for a tour. I finally had the train ride of my dreams in Korea.
In China, the train is merely a mode of transportation, but the train in
Korea can be treated as a luxury hotel along the tracks.
Romance
in Public Transportation
Korea’s Haerang Rail Cruise started from Seoul Station, which runs at
a speed of 100 km/h. The main itinerary included going through the
South West (SW) of Korea, the South East (SE) Korea, or the whole of
Korea for 2D1N or 3D2N, which will end back in Seoul Station.
The rooms in the Haerang Rail Cruise are in the form of clean and
neat hotel-style rooms, with posh ambience-filled restaurants, and large
lounge areas. Passengers can sleep in their hotel-room styled rooms, so
that Haerang Rail Cruise passengers can visit many touristy places in
Korea during the 2D1N (or 3D2N). Compared with the usual train
express tours, Haerang Rail Cruise is not only comfy and convenient,
but also brings the hotel onboard your train journey.
Filling lunch box ⓒJin May-ling
Jin May-ling 金美玲
Born 1989 in Guangzhou, Jin May-ling fell in love with Korea through dramas. In
2008 she decided to come to Korea and enrolled herself at Konkuk University.
She joined the school’s foreigners’ service center and the leisure sports club. She
took part in promoting Korea by being a supporter of Dokdo Island, a university
supporter of the Visit Korea Committee, and more. As of 2012, she is a senior at
Konkuk University majoring in Business Administration.
For this summer holiday, I wanted to have first-hand experience of the
Korean culture and the passion of the Korean people. Therefore my best
friend and I have decided to take the Haerang Rail Cruise to go through
the SE of Korea. I heard that the famous scenic spots where many stars
had their dramas filmed were in Korea. Therefore, I wanted to express for
myself what it was like to be the female protagonist of a Korean drama.
At 8:15a.m., we assembled at a cafe at Seoul Station. Passengers of the
Haerang Rail Cruise shall enjoy a free cup of coffee. After allocating the
rooms and distributing the keys, we were ready to hop aboard. The train’s
exterior was magnificent. We could see the train’s interior design from
outside. But not to worry, the windows have curtains.
The Haerang Rail Cruise was ready to start off. I started exploring the
bedroom with a heart full of curiosity. The rooms in the Haerang Rail
Cruise were no different from ordinary hotel rooms, as they were divided
into deluxe rooms, standard rooms, family rooms, and suites. Facilities such
as indoor beds, bathrooms (shower rooms), TVs were in place. Here, we
170
171
can also enjoy ourselves in an in-train cinema. Apart from the facilities
listed above, the deluxe rooms also come with a separate home theatre
and sofa seats. The rooms also came with clothes hangers, paper towels,
slippers, mirrors, litter bins, telephones, and others. The bathrooms
were equipped with hair dryers, towels, a wash basin, and toiletries.
I couldn’t believe that I could find so much in a train. Therefore, all I
would need to bring onboard the Haerang Rail Cruise was just a few
sets of clothes.
The train’s lounge would include an introduction of the train crew and
there were performances in store for us. Before the programs started, the
crew would inform all the passengers to proceed to the large lounge to
watch the performance.
After the introduction of the train crew, everyone in the train shall start
giving their self-introductions, and the friendly service crew members
shall without a doubt, provide their services with smiles, and accede to
the reasonable requests of passengers. They are determined to strive to
create a comfortable and happy travelling and leisure environment for their
passengers. The self-introduction of the passengers was really heart-moving.
On board with us were two sisters who had lost their mother, so
they boarded the Haerang Rail Cruise to lift their moods. Passengers
included a family of six that was on board to celebrate their
grandfather’s birthday, a sweet couple with a baby, a touching old
couple whereby one was taking care of the other who was sickly,
university students who were getting ready to leave their parents for
further studies, and university students who are on holiday. We can see
that they love and care for the person next to them, since that person
is their family member or friend who is close to them, Everyone on
board Haerang Rail Cruise had a touching story to tell. Be it good or
bad, travelling with friends or family is a wonderful thing. Through the
self-introduction of the passengers, I also felt blessed. When confronting
difficulties in future, I shall recall the struggles they shared. Whenever I
went for train tours with my parents or friends in China, I was happy.
However, onboard the Haerang Rail Cruise, I really felt a heartmoving warmth.
Performances also included performances by the train crew, whereby
they had prepared different talent shows for passengers of different ages.
Children’s songs were sung for children, and a gayageum performance
was prepared for the elderly. The passengers also raised their hands to
cheer for the performers. The hot favorite was the magic show, whereby
the magician prepared an empty bottle to show a child that there was
nothing inside. The child would verify that the magician has sprinkled
magic powder into the empty bottle. After tapping the empty bottle
lightly, it will be filled with water. Everybody gradually opened up their
hearts as the crew members engaged the passengers with activities.
During the lounge performances, the staff will prepare some wine, soft
drinks, dried beef, fruits, and cheese, so that they can enjoy eating while
watching the performance.
During lunchtime onboard Haerang Rail Cruise, the phones in the
rooms shall ring at lunch time to inform the passenger to proceed to the
dining cabin for lunch. The dining cabin was by no means inferior to any
Haerang Rail Cruise ⓒKORAIL Tourism Development
172
173
the Haerang Rail Cruise bedrooms are slightly smaller than hotel bedrooms,
and also shake regularly as the train moves. The fees charged at the scenic
spots are not a lot. The Haerang Rail Cruise staff shall introduce the scenic
spots while following the passengers.
Haerang Rail Cruise and its friendly crew
ⓒJin May-ling
ordinary restaurant, filled with ambience, necessarily equipped as would
an ordinary restaurant, and with first class service rendered. Keeping
in line with the environmental conservation movement, Haerang Rail
Cruise does not use disposable lunch boxes. Beef and fish will be served
in these high-end lunch boxes, and they tasted unique and exquisite.
Taking into consideration the health of the passengers, the in-train
kitchen staff also prepared raw vegetables, chilies, garlic, and doenjang.
The beef-lettuce ssambap was very tasty. Also included were the famous
kimchi, and ojingeo jeotgal. With all these, one big bowl of rice wouldn’t
seem enough. The friendly service staff will be standing around ready
to serve. Another plus point about Haerang Rail Cruise was that there
was no surcharge on extra food consumed no matter how much you ate,
since the meal price has been included in the train ticket price.
Several magazines are available in the cabins, with a whole array of the
latest DVDs. The cabin also provided free internet. I have never seen a
train as luxurious and comfortable as this.
Aura Tour (Around the whole of Korea through SW and SE of Korea,
and along the Yellow Sea)
Although the Haerang Rail Cruise is slightly expensive, it includes food
and lodging. Therefore, it is possible to rest comfortably in the train’s
hotel-room style bedroom, and enjoy views of Korea’s scenic areas while
the train is moving. Such a tour provides a form of novelty. The beds in
Seoul Station – POSCO Pohang Iron & Steel Co. (site bus tour and en
route factory visit) – Wolseong Yangdong Village, Gyeongju-si (experience
Korean history) – Dinner (Gyeongju Hanjeongsik), Chongdong Theatre
Gyeongju Performance Show <Miso2-Silla, The Land of the Gods> – (Day 2)
Jeongdongjin (view of sunrise) – Mangsang Station (ocean view) – Breakfast
(hwangtae Soup) – Mureung Valley (Fun at the valley), Samhwasa Temple (Pray
to Buddha) – Taebaek Station, lunch (Taebaek Korean Beef ) – Chujeon
Station – Group photo (train station with the highest elevation in Korea) –
arrive at Seoul station.
On the first day we visited the POSCO Pohang Iron & Steel Co,. Since
the steel factory was very large, we went for a bus tour to view the inside
of the steel factory. I saw smoke coming out of their many chimneys that
formed what appeared like moving clouds. Entering the steel factory, I saw
that the workers were wearing masks since the steel factory had a lot of
soot. There was no rain on that day, but the ground was full of water. If we
take a closer look, there were a number of small taps along the road. Many
trees were planted to purify the air. A while later, I saw the harbor and a
large cargo ship. I was so impressed. I didn’t expect there to be a harbor
within a factory. There were a number of small hills within the factory
premises containing materials for steelmaking and water-park-like transport
tubes. I simply can’t expect less from the world’s largest steel factory. In the
afternoon, we proceeded to watch the signature performance of Gyeongjusi at Chongdong Theatre – Miso2. Miso was a stage performance show that
included the Korean national music, dance, and agricultural music. Since this
performance did not include any spoken lines, you won’t need to understand
Korean to appreciate this performance. The performers will present their
story to you through music and dance, and foreign tourists can relax and
enjoy the Korean cultural performance. Not long ago, I watched a foreign
musical in Korea. Although the performance had spoken lines, I could not
understand the story in the musical. However, the Miso2 performance had
174
175
me drawn into the story, and the impression left on me was deep. The
stage itself was dazzling as the lights kept changing according to the
different music, scenes, and costumes, which left us in perpetual awe. The
dance moves and expressions of the performers were very lively. I have
never seen such a fantastic performance. I recommend that every visitor
to Korea or foreigner friend should watch Miso2. After the performance
was over, you could take photos together with the performers, and you
could also do so while donning the traditional Korean hanbok. I’ve seen a
number of tourists from China watching the performance.
On the second day, the train stopped at Jeongdongjin Station where the
distance between the station and the sea was the shortest in the world,
allowing us to watch the sunrise. At around 4a.m., I donned my overcoat,
took out my camera and hurried out of the train. I didn’t expect the
train to stop by the seaside. Many people were waiting at Jeongdongjin
Station to watch the sunrise. The morning seaside temperature was
freezing, but I waited a while more for the sun to rise. Finally, I witnessed
the first streaks of golden rays rising from the east. All of a sudden, the
seaside was painted scarlet, so fast that no one had the time to think that
this is a sunrise. When I saw the sunrise, I closed my eyes and made a
wish. I wished to experience more surprises in Korea that I won’t forget
for a lifetime. The Korean drama “Sandglass” was filmed in Jeongdongjin,
and “We Got Married”, a Korean drama which is a hot favorite in
Mainland China was also filmed in Jeongdongjin. In future, I will want
to visit Jeongdongjin with my boyfriend to watch the sunrise. This is
very beautiful and romantic.
I saw quite a number of scenic views during the 2D1N, all thanks to
Haerang Rail Cruise. If not for Haerang Rail Cruise, I certainly won’t have
been able to cover so many places in such a short time, and won’t have
been able to enjoy such luxurious services either. (Published August 17th, 2012)
Look Inside!
A Romantic Train Journey
What’s so romantic and dreamy about a train journey? Riding the train through the night, or traveling along
the coastline, taking the train wherever it is you are going to, will make your memories a bit more romantic and
dreamy. Below are a few of Korea’s unique train rides.
Sea Train
This Sea Train runs along the East Sea between
do, Yangpyeong in Gyeonggi-do, Daecheon in
Gangneung-si, Donghae-si and Samcheok-
Chungcheongnam-do, and Mungyeong-si in
si in Gangwon-do. Because the seats of the
Gyeongsangbuk-do.
train are facing the window, tourists can enjoy
[Jeongseon Railbike] Address 290-4 Guseok-ri,
the refreshing view of the East Sea during
Yeoryang-myeon, Jeongseon-gun, Gangwon-do
the entire 58-km-ride. Every day, 2 to 3 trains
Web railbike.co.kr
[Samcheok Ocean Railbike] Address 146-10 Gung
depart from both Gangneung Station and
chon-ri, Geundeok-myeon, Samcheok-si, Gangwon-
Samcheok Station, and it takes about 1 hour
do Web oceanrailbike.com
and 20 minutes one-way.
Address [Samcheok Station] 51-4 Sajik-dong, Samcheok-
Seomjingang Steam Locomotive
si, Gangwon-do, [Gangneung Station] 118 Gyo 2-dong,
This is a 10-km railroad between Gokseong
Gangneung-si, Gangwon-do Web seatrain.co.kr
Railbike
4-wheeled pedal bikes run on recycled train
rails. Depending on how hard you pedal,
you can control the speed and enjoy the
surrounding view and nature. Railbikes are
available in Jeongseon-gun and Samcheok-si
in Gangwon-do, Gokseong-gun in Jeollnam-
Station and Gajeong Station in Jeollanam-do.
A steam locomotive runs along Seomjingang
River at a speed of 30 to 40 km/h. This could
be a time spent to yourself. It is 80 minutes
round-trip and it departs from Seomjingang
Train Village, the country’s first train-themed
park.
Address 232-1 Gichamaeul-ro, Oji-ri, Ogok-myeon,
Gokseong-gun, Jeollanam-do Web gstrain.co.kr
Seomjingang Train Village ⓒKTO
Taste
of Korea
176
177
Danny Wen
Marja Vongerichten
Jeonju Bibimbap
Native Foods of Korea
-
-
Chua Lam
Pierre Gagnaire
Culinary Tour of the Namdo Area
Tour of Traditional Markets
-
-
Fouz Khalid Khan
Jennifer Flinn
Korean Street Food
Food Culture of Andong-si
Nature, Health & Body
Hanjeongsik ⓒKorea House
178
| Jeonju Bibimbap |
179
To be honest, before my trip to Korea, my understanding of the country
was limited to bulgogi and kimchi as well as the Shin Ramen (spicy instant
noodles) that do not get sodden no matter how long you cook them.
My view of Korean cuisine was narrow as I first came into contact with
it in the form of lunch box exchanges with a couple of Korean students
in college when I lived in Los Angeles years ago. I remembered the fiery
kimchi which did not smell too pleasant but left an exceptional culinary
impression with its tart but surprisingly appealing taste. Unfortunately,
I began to lose interest after five lunches with varying combinations
of kimchi that looked about the same. However, it was because of this
experience that I came to know about the role and significance of
kimchi in the Korean culture and it also formally opened the first door
for me to Korean cuisine.
A spoonful
of colorful ingredients,
wow!
Subsequently, I followed my Korean friends to Koreatown in Los Angeles
and came to know about bulgogi. Not only did it change my wrong
perception that Korean food only consisted of the cold and pickled
kimchi, it also showed me the intricate aspect of Korean cuisine. By
wrapping grilled meat that has been dipped in bean and chilli sauces and
slices of garlic and some rice in fresh lettuces, one gets to savor a multilayered symphony of tastes, not to mention balanced nutrition from the
vegetable, meat and rice combination. A small bite and yet a generous
dose of healthy living. It was a truly fascinating encounter.
It goes without saying that I also came to know about and enjoy the Shin
(spicy) brand of Korean instant goodness through my Korean friends. It
Danny Wen
Born 1967 in Taiwan, Danny Wen is the most famous and influential travel reporter
in Taiwan. Since his debut in 1992, he has published 18 guidebooks and cooking
books, most of which have become bestsellers. He has appeared on TV and radio
show and has also been featured on various magazines.
Jeonju bibimbap ⓒDanny Wen
180
181
bibimbap were remarkable and mind-blowing. It was already a visual treat
even before I tasted it.
Gochujang ⓒKTO
was another of my great discoveries of fresh and interesting conveniences
in life. However, after more than a decade of living in Los Angeles, my
knowledge of Korean cuisine was sadly limited to these three items.
My visit to Korea proved to be an eye opener as it presented to me the
diversity of the country’s cuisine in the form of ginseng chicken soup,
cold noodles, chicken congee, tofu pot noodles and raw beef salad, as
well as the delicate Korean table d'hote, which was simply delectable, and
its varied methods of preparation was mind blowing. However, the most
unforgettable flavor that I experienced in my Jeollabuk-do trip had to be
the bibimbap which tasted out of this world.
I could not help but keep taking pictures of this masterpiece in front of
me but my friends were urging me to mix the ingredients in the pot. I
did pause but was hesitant about breaking up such a work of art. Then
again, I would be missing the essence of bibimbap if I did not mix its
ingredients. It would defeat the purpose of me taking a three-hour ride
from Seoul to Jeonju to sample the top-ranking dish in Korean cuisine.
Hence, bracing myself, I lifted the metal spoon and stirred the ingredients
furiously and mindlessly. “That’s right!” said my Korean friend who was
beaming at me from across the table. “The more evenly mixed it is, the
better it tastes.”
The funny thing was that although the mixed bibimbap looked far from
pretty, it tasted out of this world and I could not stop helping myself to
it. It was such joy stuffing my mouth with it while exchanging knowing
looks of “This is delicious!” with those around me.
I remember that when the waitress at the restaurant placed the brass pot
of bibimbap on my table, my eyes were immediately drawn to its colorful
contents and I was almost oblivious to the other delicious side dishes
on the table. I gently lifted the pot and tilted it left and right as if I was
closely examining and enjoying a work of art.
I was visually counting the number of ingredients that had been placed
on the rice in the pot and I could not help but grin even wider as the
number rose. Those sharing my table might not have heard any sigh of
amazement but I was silently taken aback in wonderment. The art and
aesthetics in the small smorgasbord of plebeian cuisine that was Jeonju
Dolsot bibimbap (bibimbap served in a hot stone pot) ⓒKTO
182
183
I was surprised, in particular, by the role of the hot sauce in bibimbap.
I thought it would be strong and mask the other flavors in the pot. To
my amazement, the slightly sweet condiment plays an important role of
balancing and harmonizing the various ingredients. It also enhances their
flavors and acts as seasoning, allowing one to taste the different flavors of the
ingredients as well as stimulating the secretion of saliva with its mildly spicy
taste. It was complete satisfaction on an emotional level and truly moving.
I cannot remember the name of the well-known person who said the
Jeonju bibimbap was plebeian cuisine that was not presentable. I beg
to differ and the person who made such a comment was more likely
ignorant about appreciating and enjoying fine cuisine. To me, the finest
cuisine is anything that tastes great or makes one’s taste buds dance with
joy. Not only is the Jeonju bibimbap an artistic treat that pleases our senses
of taste and sight, it is also a cultural thanksgiving. More importantly, not
only does the marriage of various ingredients and rice smell, taste and
look heavenly, it is a well-balanced dish and I truly believe it should be
considered one of the healthiest dishes from a nutritional point of view.
I slowly finished my last mouthful and declared with a contented smile, “The
three-hour journey is truly worth it for a taste of such bliss” - a statement
that was greeted with a round of applause from my satisfied company.
th
(Published January 7 , 2011)
Look Inside!
Useful Guide to Korean Snacks
Bulgogi, kimchi, ramyeon, bibimbap, etc. These are just the tip of the iceberg. Beginning with the basic table
setting of rice, soup and simple side dishes of the commoners, to the elaborate 12-dish table of the king, the
Korean table is an assortment of rich tastes and flavors.
Doenjang jjigae (soybean paste stew) ⓒKTO
Bulgogi (grilled marinated beef) ⓒKTO
The Basic Table Setting
Guk vs. Tang vs. Jjigae
The Korean table is meant to be eaten with rice,
The Korean table must have a soup dish. Guk, tang,
therefore unlike other countries, a Korean meal table
and jjigae are all soup based dishes that even Koreans
consists of a bowl of rice and soup, and a few side
have a hard time differentiating. Guk, or soup, has
dishes served at once. Although in recent years the
more water than solid ingredients; tang, or casserole,
western custom of dividing the meal in a number
has less water and more meats and vegetables; and
courses— appetizer, entrees and desserts— the
finally jjigae, or stew, has about the same amount of
traditional Korean meal has only one course.
both.
Odd Number of Side Dishes
Noodles, a Special Dish for Noblemen
Hansik, or Korean food, was traditionally a single-
Noodles are normally thought of as economical and
person table, and the higher your rank was in the
good for a light meal. But, in the Joseon Dynasty,
family, the number of side dishes on the table
noodles were a specialty served to guests. Back in the
increased. Rice and soup were the most basic, and
days, most of the farmland was rice fields, and so flour
kimchi, jjigae (stew), and condiments were not
was valuable. Flour noodles were an expensive food
considered side dishes. Depending on the number of
that even noblemen only enjoyed on special days.
side dishes the table was called sam-cheop (3-dish)
This is why to this day, noodles are always served at a
or o-cheop (5-dish) table. The number of side dishes
Korean wedding.
on the table were always odd, 3, 5, 7, 9, etc. except for
that of the king, in which case it was called surasang
and had 12 side dishes.
184
| Culinary Tour of the Namdo Area |
185
Food critic from Hong Kong
can’t stop eating Namdo food
“Korean food is not delicious. Is there anything else to eat other than
Samgyeopsal: sliced bacons?” It is easy to find those who criticize Korean
food like this among Hong Kong netizens. However I would call them
‘a big fish in a little pond’. The Korean foods I’ve tasted so far were all
different and distinctive in their own right. After my trip to Gwangju, I
could confirm that I was not far off the mark.
Koreans do not react when I talk about Seoul or Busan, but they put
thumbs up when they are told that I am going to eat in Gwangju.
Transportation from Seoul to Gwangju was not very convenient before
but it takes only four hours by car after Ex-president, Kim Dae-jung
built a direct expressway.
After arriving in Gwangju, I headed for Yeonggwang-gun as soon as I
did unpacking at the lodging. Crape myrtles were lined along the road
all the way down to Yeonggwang-gun. I was really surprised to learn that
Korea spends a lot of money for environmental landscaping. I stumbled
upon a rock, carved in Chinese characters, saying “This is the first arrival
place of Baekje Dynasty Buddhism”. Buddhism was introduced to
Korea in AD 384. There is a Christian Martyrs’place as well as Buddhist
martyrs’ in Yeonggwang-gun. Christianity (Catholics and Protestants) and
Buddhism are centered on Yeonggwang-gun as its place name suitably
suggests, “Spirits Shine”.
But the purpose of this trip was to look for a yellow croaker. Yellow
croakers are already endangered in the South of the Yangtze River but
Chua Lam 蔡瀾
Born 1941 in Singapore. From 1963, Chua produced several movies in Hong Kong, including various Jackie
Chen movies. Since the 1980s he has worked as a travel and food columnist and has published over 100
books on travel and food. He is a respected food critic with 14 restaurants. In 2007 he put together a book
on Korean food.
Juktongbap (rice cooked in a bamboo canister) ⓒKTO
186
187
give out a strong ammonia smell when being fermented. But a wrap of
a piece of dried yellow croaker, samgyeopsal and matured kimchi would
give another distinct flavor.
Chua Lam eating baemjangeo gui (grilled eel) ⓒJoongAng Daily
Goseong-gun near Yeonggwang-gun is a natural habitat for them. Yellow
croakers captured here are sent to fisheries market all over the country.
I asked a friend what a yellow croaker is called in Korean when I saw
them in clusters tied together. I was told that ‘dried’ yellow croakers are
called gulbi in Korea.
Koreans consider Korean beef to be a quality gift, but gulbi is considered
to be of a higher quality. Chinese think eating fresh yellow croakers are
very important but Koreans have different ideas. Koreans think that dried
and charcoal-grilled yellow croakers; boneless meat carved out, taken
with drinks are most delicious. I purchased a few fresh yellow croakers
at a local market after looking for them high and low and took them to
the best local restaurant to have them cooked. At this restaurant 30 to 40
side dishes are served and a main dish is gulbi. The first dish was a stewed
gulbi, which was salted, but its original fresh taste still remained.
I was not able to eat the next dish, a dried yellow croaker (gulbi) because
the texture of the meat was too tough and passed it onto Korean friends.
But gulbi broth which was boiled with tofu using a restaurant’s special
sauce was very delicious. Another dish was a salted gulbi, and it would
Although I was full up, I had to visit other restaurants to learn about
various foods in Gwangju region. This time I was in for freshwater eels.
There was fire on the table and a female chef brought out two eels and
began to grill one on each side. On the left hand side was an unseasoned
eel and a marinated eel with hot pepper paste was on the right hand side.
Before grilling, two eels were half done because they were already steamed.
I ate an unseasoned eel dipping in sauce and its thick meat was oily, shiny
and delicious. A seasoned one was also soft and fresh, preserving eel’s
inherent flavor without any loss or damage. I have not tasted such fresh
eels for a long time. I have tried foods from the sea and the river and it
was time for food taken from the mountains. So I went to try juktongbap
which cooks brown rice, red jujubes and rice in a large bamboo tube.
Opening the lid of juktongbap helps release the scent of rice and bamboo
ever so gently. In addition to juktongbap, there is a juktongju: Bamboo
liquor. There is a hole at the back of the bamboo tube; I wonder how
liquor was poured into it.
To add more flavor to the juktongbap, I ordered a beef rib dish which
looked different from the one I tried before. I asked the chef the name
I was told that ‘dried’ yellow croakers are
called gulbi in Korea.
Gulbi ⓒKTO
188
189
of the dish and she answered, “filial rib!” It is called a filial rib because
the rib meat is carved and sliced to make it soft so that the elderly can
easily eat the meat. As such ‘filial affection’ is a traditional Korean virtue.
Korean set meals, especially a set meal in Gwangju offers a variety
of dishes as good as a banquet. In a set meal, there are rice, soup and
other dishes which you may like or not. Anyway there are bound to be
your favorite dishes among them for sure. While waiting for dishes, I
wandered around the restaurant. Many pots were lined up in a row and
all different kinds of vegetables were planted in a garden. It is important
that some dishes are served with vegetables and one of them is “bossam
kimchi”. The dish which is made of minced beef and soy sauce put on a
crab carapace can be found only in Gwangju.
Look Inside!
Hansik Dishes Recommended by Chua Lam
Known as the food god of Hong Kong, food columnist Chua Lam has done interviews with JoongAng Daily
newspaper in 2010 and 2011 regarding the globalization of Korean food. He enjoys Korean food, and here, he
introduces a few of his favorite dishes.
Hongeo Samhap with kimchi (fermented
skate and steamed pork slices served) ⓒKTO
After main dishes were served on the table, a pine mushroom dish, a panfried beef dish with spring onions and gulbi follow. A soup made of seaweed
and oysters was served but not very tasty. But once you taste soy milk you
know that it is excellent with its fragrance.The dishes are not salty, therefore
ordinary customers can enjoy them and especially customers who enjoy
food can appreciate the flavor. Another special dish is a squid. By appearance
it doesn’t seem to be special but the squid is cut in the shape of a tire and
filled with minced squid meat. There isn’t any sweet dish in Korean food
but if you’d like a strong deep sweet taste, a pumpkin boiled with sugar
would be a good choice. If you’d like a light sweet taste, a jujube tea is
recommended. With all these delicious dishes from southern areas, who says
Korean food is not tasty and can’t fill the stomach? (Published February 25th, 2011)
Galbijjim (braised short ribs) served in a stone pot ⓒKTO
Jeonbok Samgyetang
Gulbi gui
Samgyetang is a nutritious soup
Yellow corvina is salted then left
samgyeopsal (pork belly), and
made by boiling a whole chicken
to air dry on the beach. When
kimchi. The combination of the
stuffed with ginseng, glutinous
the fish is dry, it is called gulbi.
three is called hongeo samhap.
rice, jujubes, milk vetch root and
The best gulbi is that made with
According to Chua Lam, this is an
chestnuts. An upgraded version of
yellow corvina caught in March in
acquired taste no other country
jeonbok samgyetang, is samgyetang
Yeonggwang-gun, Jeollanam-do.
can offer.
with abalone(jeonbok). Abalone
Although there are various way to
adds flavor and nutrition to the
cook gulbi, braised or grilled are
Galbijjim
already delicious and nutritious
the most popular. When my Hong
Probably a favorite among foreign
samgyetang.
Kong friends tried gulbi for the
tourists, when making galbijjim,
first time, they finished a bowl of
pork or beef ribs are marinated
rice in no time.
and simmered until meat is soft
Maesaengi guk
Maesaengi (seaweed fulvescens)
and tender. Chua Lam recommends
grows in clean and shallow waters.
Hongeo Samhap
It is easy to find during the cold
Hongeo, or skate is fermented in
winters especially in the Jeollanam-
an earthen pot with salt and a
do and Gyeongsangnam-do. It is
bundle of straw. Fermented skate
usually cooked with oysters, and it
can cooked in various ways, but
is high is iron, potassium, protein,
no matter how you cook it, the
and other vitamins. It is also good
unique taste and flavor won’t
for when you’re on a diet.
be lost. In the Jeolla-do area,
galbijjim to elders.
fermented skate is eaten with
Samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup) ⓒKTO
190
| Korean Street Food |
191
I tried mandu, eomuk, gimbap, and… dak kkochi
at a pojangmacha,
and now I can’t forget the taste!
Assortment of pojang macha foods ⓒKTO
Fouz Khalid Khan
Fouz Khalid Khan is a civil servant and is presently posted as Deputy Director of Intelligence & Investigation
in the Federal Board of Revenue, Government of Pakistan. He holds degrees in electrical engineering,
public administration and tax management and has 12 years of experience in various public sector posts.
He joined the KDI School of Public Policy & Management in 2011 for a Masters Program in Public Policy and
immediately fell in love with Korea. His hobbies of having gastronomic adventures and photography were
more than satiated during his year long stay. He ate all the exotic foods he could including the famous
sannakji (live octopus) and snapped pictures all around Korea, some of which were also published online.
He hopes to see more of the country and its wonderful people in future.
Other people might be tempted to explore more eventful attractions
but my preferred touchstone of a country’s culture is its food. And not
just the cuisine found in uptown restaurants. It is the street food that
so elaborately and without a shred of hypocritical pretence introduces
a country to the rest of the world. Not for me the expensive eateries,
replete with hyped up ambience and a show of food bordering on the
fake; and although I have had my share of the bibimbap (rice served with
red pepper sauce and assorted vegetable in a black stone pot topped with
egg) and my bulgogi (thinly sliced marinated beef grilled on the table)
along with numerous side dishes, if I want to taste the real food I will go
right where it is simple, natural and easily accessible. That is to say, food
prepared by ordinary folks like you and me on the streets.
I arrived in Seoul on a cold, cold night shivering both from excitement
of being in a new city and its freezing weather. It was a day before the
lunar year holidays began and Korea seemed to be wrapping up to go on
a three day break. So how was a famished Pakistani student supposed to
fill up without even knowing survival Korean? Naturally, it all gravitated
to street food. Armed with a Korean phrase book in my hand and a song
in my heart, I went on rampage in the neighborhoods in Dongdaemungu. Sidewalk carts, all warmly wrapped up and managed by polite and
cheerful ladies and scrumptious looking food welcomed me.
It was a sight to watch the nicely laden and hygienic carts displaying their
colourful fare. I could recognize some of the thing like eomuk (fish cake on
a stick) and soft dumplings. A delicious fish broth, known as eomuk gungmul,
was aplenty and I later learnt that it was customary for one to drink it after
having a snack.There were rice cakes, collectively known as gimbap, wrapped
up in seaweed and filled with various ingredients. I could taste boiled eggs,
shrimps and long green chillies fried in batter along with a heavenly red
pepper sauce; my favorites among the plenty of varied and wonderful street
food, however, remain the goguma, sweet potatoes fried in batter; gamja, which
is fried potato cubes with bread crumbs and dak kkochi, or scrumptious
chicken cubes on a stick served with a variety of sauces.
If you think Korean street food is all about snacks with spicy condiments,
you are dead wrong. Some of the most delicious pancakes, or hotteok, I
have eaten are sold right on the kerb in Seoul. They are filled with honey,
cinnamon, peanuts and brown sugar and are rich and very satisfying. And
192
193
though you cannot escape The Paris Baguette anywhere in Seoul, yet the
hangwa, or traditional Korean confectionary, is a lot tastier than the usual
bakery fare. Made with grain flour, fruits, sweet potatoes, honey and
edible roots it is a savoury treat, at once tender and not too overly sweet.
And what of the beverages? Well, you need not worry about it because
although Koreans love their coffee (Seoul is undoubtedly the coffee
capital of the world with a coffee house around virtually every street
corner), they still have their traditional cha, or tea; sikhye, or sweet rice
drink; and hwachae, or fruit punch along with alcoholic ones like soju
and yakju, which are made from rice. However, what I was really dying
to taste was the famous Ginseng tea. Made with the roots of Ginseng, a
herb found in the mountainous regions of the country which remains
one of its most famed exports, Ginseng tea made from a proper 6 year
old root is known to have medicinal and invigorating properties. It is an
acquired taste though and may not be suitable for everyone. Perhaps less
adventurous souls might prefer saenggang cha, which is made from sliced
ginger roots and is excellent in winter months; or gukhwa cha, which is
made from chrysanthemum flowers preserved in honey for a month.
For food adventurers, Korea is a real treat. We have all seen YouTube
videos of guys choking on live baby octopus, called sannakji; or people
singing praises of the notoriously aphrodisiacal bosintang, or dog soup. But
what can only be experienced inside Korea (and nowhere else) is not
just the authentic flavor but the ambience of the food that the country is
famous for.
Not until you have had a bowl of tteokguk, the famous rice cake soup
known to cure hangovers or tasted kimchi, (the national dish made from
spicy vegetables fermented over time and eaten with almost everything
and every time of the day) can you understand the rich, vibrant and
colourful mix that is Korean cuisine. Since my arrival in Seoul, I have yet
to eat something that does not fully agree with my palette; the texture,
smell and the taste is different, to be sure - but once you develop a knack
for it, Korean food can be one of the most delectable stuff you have ever
eaten. No wonder Korean language does not seem to have an equivalent
of the formal Bon appetite: with food that tastes this good, perhaps they
don’t need to! (Published Apri 22th, 2011)
Look Inside!
Food Alleys in Downtown Seoul
The variety of street food in Korea is endless. There’s bound to be something to suit your palate, and the price is
what’s most attractive. In streets and alleys where there are a lot of people, you are sure to find a food cart. Here
I introduce the most tasty and most crowded food alleys in Seoul.
Twigim (fritters), mandu (Korean dumplings), topokki (spicy rice cake) ⓒKTO
Pojang macha (food cart) ⓒKTO
Insa-dong
Insa-dong is a must-visit area
alleys. Topokki (spicy rice cakes),
university areas are the most
among foreigners. Lined with
twigim (fritters), sundae (Korean
diverse food alleys in Seoul.
hanjeongsik (Korean full course
blood sausage), eomuk (fish cake)
Japanese takoyaki, French crepes
meal) and traditional tea houses,
and mandu (dumplings) are just
and Turkish kebabs, there is a little
Insa-dong also has a wide variety
a few snacks that lure tourists.
bit of the world in these university
of street food. Especially popular
Two treats that you shouldn’t miss
streets. Roasted sweet potatoes
among tourists is the kkultarae
in Myeong-dong are the 34-cm-
and chestnuts are always sold
cart. Crowds of people gather
long soft ice cream cone, and the
together and are a must during
around these carts to see how
spiraled potatoes.
the cold winter days. The Ewha
Womans University, Sungshin
traditional string candy is made
from honey malt. While in Korea,
Gwangjang Market
Women’s University areas are
Reese Witherspoon had a bite of
Located near Dongdaemun Market,
especially popular for their wide
sugar and peanut-filled pancakes
Gwangjang Market is a haven
array of street foods.
made of corn flour and fell in love
of traditional snacks. From the
with them. No matter how long
filing seafood pancakes and thick
the lines are, don’t make sure you
mungbean pancakes, to sundae,
try both of these treats.
topokki and gimbap, there is just too
much to eat here. If there is a little
Myeong-dong
room left for desert, try the spicy
Often dubbed the “shopping
noodles, made on the spot.
mecca,” the main shopping street
of Myeong-dong is lined with
University Areas
food carts all the way to the back
Fl o o d e d b y s t u d e n t s , t h e s e
194
| Native Foods of Korea |
195
Devotion beyond your imagination,
I was humbled
by seeing how gochujang is made
Making gochujang (Korean chili paste) ⓒMarja Vongerichten
Marja Vongerichten
Born 1976 in Korea. Born from a Korean woman and an American soldier, she was adopted by a family
in Virginia when she was 3 years old. While working as a model and actress in New York, she met her
biological mother, and since then visited Korea a number of times to learn about her roots. She is also
known as the wife of Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, French chef who owns more than 20 restaurants
around the world including the 3-star Michelin-rated New York restaurant. The couple visited Korea in 2010
for about a month for the production of their documentary, “Kimchi Chronicles.”
I was able to see Korea like I had never seen it before during May when
I traveled there with a production crew to host an upcoming PBS
television show. While my previous trips centered on visiting my family
and polishing my karaoke room routine, this most recent trip gave me
the opportunity to understand and approach my home and my culture
with new information, access and authenticity. People opened their
restaurants and homes for us, they showed us around their local markets
and explained their signature ingredients, they brought us into their
fields and factories, into their families and their hearts.
Among the highlights of our trip was meeting Lee Sook-hee at her
restaurant Doorae. On my first visit, Sook-hee taught me how to make
homemade gochujang, a labor of love involving techniques I didn’t expect.
It was enlightening to learn the steps behind what is perhaps the most
significant ingredient in Korean cuisine and also slightly humbling—after
seeing all the work that goes into making it, I can never take gochujang
for granted. After this lesson, Sook-hee invited me to have lunch with
her. Her food was, quite simply, stunning. Old school, but with such a
light touch and distinctive, unmuted flavors. The meal ended with Sookhee singing traditional Korean music unaccompanied and with great
confidence and emotion. It literally left me in tears. The experience was
soulful and connected, fully realized. I thought immediately that this is
where I would bring my husband, Jean Georges, when he arrived to
Korea with our daughter Chloe. I took them, practically straight from the
airport, to Doorae. Jean Georges was equally blown away, so appreciative
of Sook-hee’s talent and grace. He instantly recognized her as an
extraordinary embodiment of Korean cuisine and culture.
Jean Georges was also very engaged by his trip with the haenyeos in
Jejudo Island. He was stripped down and dressed in a wetsuit, a face mask
to seal the deal. He dove with the women, admiring their ability, skill and
lively sense of humor. I couldn’t help but be a little jealous when hearing
about how they all ate sea urchin straight from the ocean. Being able to
consume ingredients at their source is a bit of an ultimate for chefs, the
closest connection you can have with food.
196
197
We shared a similar experience when we visited the Amore Pacific green
tea gardens, also in Jejudo Island, and were able to witness the entire
process from the soil to the teacup. We learned how each type of tea is
grown, harvested, roasted and packaged and how the ingredients are used
to their full potential in the brand’s cosmetics that I continually swear by.
Seeing the care invested in each step was extraordinary; for example, the
expert tea pickers do not ever wash their hands with harsh soap in order
to ensure the delicacy and subtleties of each leaf.
Look Inside!
Varieties of Kimchi and its History
Kimchi is always present on a Korean meal. It was originally made to preserve vegetables for longer periods of
time. From field vegetables, to wild mountain greens and edible plants, anything can an ingredient for kimchi.
Whole cabbage kimchi, radish kimchi, young radish kimchi, etc. kimchi comes in a great variety of flavors and
ingredients.
Perhaps the most meaningful morning I spent during this trip was on
the beach in Sokcho-si cooking and eating with my Korean family.
Joined by my grandmother, two aunts and cousins, we prepared and ate
soup made with local crabs, grilled squid and pork belly and vegetables,
and, of course, kimchi (some of the best we had and I’m not just saying
that because my aunt made it). The meal, however, went way beyond
the food. It was about being with family, about being in the place where
you come from and feeling welcome and part of something bigger than
yourself. Families not only define cultures, they transcend them—we are
all connected to our homes and origins, wherever they are and however
we define them.
This trip was intensely meaningful for me. It effectively opened my eyes
to the traditions, ideas and customs that define Korean cuisine and life. I
ate old dishes and better understood their origins. I ate new dishes that
redefined the potential of Korean cuisine. I was with my family and I
met new people and I spoke with them and listened to their stories. I
felt increasingly aware, informed and touched by a culture that I am so
privileged and delighted to call my own. (Published June 24th, 2011)
History of Kimchi
Kimchi is fermented food. The history of
stuffed cucumber kimchi in summer; cubed
kimchi goes back to ancient times. Until the
radish kimchi, soy sauce kimchi and leaf mustard
18th century, when Korean chili powder was
kimchi are autumn kimchi; and in early winter,
introduced in Korea, kimchi was made by
most families in Korea make gimjang, making
pickling cucumber, garlic, chives and other
kimchi to last the whole winter.
vegetables in salt water. Although chili was
brought into Korea in the late 16th century, it
Gimjang
took over 150 years for it to be used in kimchi.
Gimjang is an annual event to prepare for
It became popular through the 1988 Seoul
winter. Since vegetables don’t grow in the
Olympic Games, and in 2001 it was officially
cold winter, enough kimchi to last through the
declared an “International Food” by Codex
winter is made in around November. During
Alimentarius Commission.
gimjang season, the entire family helps salt
and rinse tens, sometimes hundreds heads
Varieties of Kimchi
of cabbage. The cabbage is soaked in salted
There are over 200 different types of kimchi in
water, then rinsed, and then seasoned with
Korea. The taste of kimchi differs by region. The
chili powder and other ingredients.
colder northern regions prefer baek-kimchi,
which uses less chili powder, the warmer
southern regions prefer spicier and saltier
kimchi. The varieties of kimchi also differ by
season: bomdong kimchi, cubed cucumber
kimchi and water kimchi in spring; lettuce
kimchi, chive kimchi, radish kimchi, and
Altari radish kimchi, green onion kimchi,
nabak kimchi (from left) ⓒKTO
198
| Tour of Traditional Markets |
199
There’s nothing that Moran Market
doesn’t have,
and here I felt the warmth of Korea
It was October 1st in 2008 when I opened a restaurant with my name on
the 35th floor in the new annex of Lotte Hotel Seoul located at Sogongdong and has been three years since I settled down in Korea. Although
it was a short period, the first landing of Michelin three-star restaurant
to Korea drew much attention from many people. Meanwhile I had
difficulty at the beginning because of prejudice that ‘French cuisine is a
high class and expensive dish’. As I came to be more knowledgeable about
Korean food ingredients and understand Korean food culture better, I
kept increasing Korean food ingredients and introducing new courses. As a
result of diverse trials, I have successfully settled down in Korea.
From 2006 when I visited Korea for the first time, I have annually
conducted Market research two or three times about big conventional
Markets such as Garak-dong Agricultural & Marine Products Market,
Noryangjin Fisheries Wholesale Market, Gyeongdong Yangnyeong
Market, Gwangjang Market in Seoul and Seongnam Moran Market in
Gyeonggi-do. Garak-dong and Noryangjin Markets did not appeal to me
much because these well-known food ingredients markets representing
Seoul were similar to large markets in France, but ‘Seongnam Moran
Market’ which is an hour away from Seoul was different. Everything and
anything was sold in a widely spread out open Seongnam Moran Market.
Looking through Korean ingredients at a traditional market ⓒPierre Gagnaire
Pierre Gagnaire
Born 1950 in France, Pierre Gagnaire became a chef at the young age of 18. In 1998 Pierre Gagnaire Paris
became a 3-star Michelin-rated restaurant, and has since maintained its 3-star rating. He has opened
restaurants in London, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Dubai, Las Vegas, Moscow and Seoul. In a survey The French
daily magazine “Le Figaro” conducted a survey rating 3-star rated Michelin chefs, and Gagnaire was voted
as the best chef. 2008 Pierre Gagnaire Seoul opened on the 35th floor of Lotte Hotel Seoul.
At the market entrance, street vendors selling flowers, plant pots, grains
and herbs were mingling together. It was very rare to see such things in
evenly arranged large markets like Noryangjin and Garak-dong Markets
in downtown Seoul. I was able to peep into healthy cooking styles of
Koreans who enjoy various grains with rice, taking a look at a variety of
grains such as adlay, mung beans, Indian millets, peas, black soybeans. Also,
I could see herb vendors explaining loudly the effect of the herbs such
as Cordyceps militaris, cinnamon, schizandra berries, etc. Many people
including myself gathered surrounding those shouting vendors and their
diverse herbs whose smell made me feel healthy. I learned ‘health’ is in
the center of the Korean food culture.
Deep in the market there were many covered wagons selling fish, meat
and noodles with drinks. Even during daytime I could see Korean
200
201
middle-aged men and women in small groups of threes to fives drinking
makgeolli and soju with boiled meat, Korean-style black pudding and
pan-fried food. Inside the market, we (me and my fellow chefs working
in Seoul Pierre Gagnaire) were the only foreigners with different hair
colors and could get a piece of food tasters whenever we were passing by
those wagons. I cannot forget those kind vendors explaining with gesture
to me when I enquired about taste and ingredients of food: A thick and
crispy mung bean pancake, a perilla leaf pancake filled with seasoned
pork meat and vegetables, a sweet and cold iced rice wine (makgeolli), a
sweet rice drink (sikhye), Korean pancake (hotteok).
the food added beauty and form while preserving its original taste. It
upgraded the food by contemporary interpretation of colors, shapes and
placement as well as taste and health. Interior design of the restaurant was
distinct too. Conventional restaurants I have visited always maintained
a traditional Korean-style house but ‘Poom’ was divided into a hall
and individual rooms with a whole window looking down Namsan
Mountain with a clear view. I was impressed with the neat, modern and
open style of its kitchen. Chefs’ cooking could be viewed through the
open kitchen, and I still remember those young chefs’ passionate and
pleasant attitude toward cooking.
Another unforgettable thing to remember was to witness selling edible
dogs. In France I had read an article about Koreans who enjoy dog meat
because it is good for stamina but it was shocking to see live dogs being
sold and cooked in reality. Whatever life forms are, killing life is irritating
and disgusting. I have never tasted the dog meat but I think there is no
difference from Koreans eating ‘edible dogs’ to French enjoying horse
meat, English eating frogs and Chinese eating monkey brains.
Later I was able to see another aspect of Korean food through
demonstration of royal court food at Gyeonghuigung Palace the
following year. In France, there is no Cuisine Royale. Korean Cuisine
In Seongnam Moran Market everything was there - all different kinds
of grains, herbs, flowers, flower pots, seeds, seafoods, vegetables, diverse
street food, liquor, antiques, pets, edible dogs…… Looking around here
and there, I could learn diversity of Korean food ingredients and feel
comfortably warm and deeply affectionate culture unique to Koreans,
walking in the market, having pigskin, fried small intestine, Korean
popcorn, fermented skates, mung bean pancake, rice wine, etc.
As I said earlier, Korean food is excellent in terms of its nutritional values
and tastes but I have never felt its style and expression are elegant and
delicate. It is just healthy and warm-heatrted comfortable food. Compared
to a person, it is the food like ‘Ajeossi-avuncular (in Korean expression)’
who offers extra food than the price in the Korean street markets?
However, the Korean food that I tasted in a Korean restaurant called
‘Poom’ was good enough to break the stereotypical image of the Korean
food I had before. I felt like eating a French course meal because
Restaurant kitchen ⓒPierre Gagnaire
202
203
Royale broke stereotypes I had about Korean food, which I considered
being clumsy and lacking delicacy, with its flower-shaped dried
persimmons served as a dessert as well as each course. I think Korean
food can be more competitive than Japanese sushi or Italian pizza known
throughout the world if conventional dishes representing beauty can be
reformed in a modern style.
Especially, kimchi seems to be a simple food but it is a very refined
and fermented well-being food which is in harmony with all different
factors. Its taste, scent and flavor are different depending on maturity. I
am confident that it is one of the most competitive Korean foods in the
world market. For example, Pierre Gagnaire style of cabbage kimchi,
which is salted cabbages fermented with lemon skins, red pepper powder
and balsamic vinegar, is sliced and served with Foie gras. I introduced
this dish in the restaurants in France and Japan as well as in Korea and I
had a very good and positive feedback from customers. I think that food
ingredients, which are produced only in Korea or well known as the best
when they are produced in Korea, can be the most powerful weapon
promoting Korean food – not only kimchi but also doenjang, makgeolli,
soju, perilla leaves, schizandra berries, ginseng and sesame oil. Isn’t it the
globalization of Korean food if various Korean food ingredients and
conventional fermented sauces can be reborn as a new dish, harmonized
with a French recipe and the new dish can attract foreigners?
th
(Published September 16 , 2011)
Look Inside!
Korea’s 5-day market,
a cheerful market open every 5 days
Although large discount stores have decreased the number of traditional 5-day markets, there are still many 5-day
markets open. Although many traditional 5-day markets have closed down due to incoming discount stores and
department stores, traditional markets can still be found in the regional areas. These 5-day markets open every 5
days, and there are still 657 left in Korea. People who have been to these markets know the feeling of having to
wait another 5 days for it to re-open. Loud and full of energy, there’s nothing these markets don’t have.
Moran 5-day Market
Jeongseon 5-day Market
Bukpyeong 5-day Market
This is largest 5-day market in
I t is a representative folk 5-
The Bukpyeong 5-day Market
Korea. An average of 100,000
day market. Opened in 1966,
is famous for seafood caught in
people visits the market when it’s
Jeongseon Market sells fresh
the East Sea, and fresh mountain
open. The number of merchants
mountain greens from the
gre e n s f ro m t h e fo o t o f t h e
alone exceeds 1,500. First opened
mountains and valleys of the
Baekdudaegan Mountain Range.
in 1962, Moran Market has lots
Gangwon-do. This market has
The fish stores inside the market
to see. From traditional dance
many convenient facilities for
are especially popular. Cod,
and singing performances to folk
to u r i s t s, i t a l s o h a s c u l t u ra l
pollack, croaker, squid, flatfish,
games, and of course shopping,
commentators ready to help, and
ray and other fish are hung from
Moran has it all. Medicinal herbs
in the center of the market, the
the ceiling Bukpyeong market
from around the country, fresh
Jeongseon Arirang performance
is geared for locals rather than
fruits, and much, much more lure
and various food experiences
tourists, which is why there aren’t
shoppers and tourists. It is open
keep tourists and visitors
any performances ir shows. But
on the 4th, 9th, 14th, 19th, 24th,
enter tained. Foods you must
you won’t be able to forget the
and 29th day of the month.
try here are seasoned gondeure
warmth and affec tion of the
Address 4190 Seongnam-dong, Jungwon-
bab rice, kotdeungchigi guksu
Korean people. It opens on the
gu, Seongnam-si, Gyeonggi-do
noodles, olchaengi guksu noodles,
3rd, 8th, 13th, 18th, 23rd and 28th
buckwheat pancakes, and other
of the month.
traditional foods of the province.
Address 486-2 Bukpyeong-si, Donghae-
It opens on the 2nd, 7th, 12th,
si, Gangwon-do
17th, 22nd and 27th day of the
month.
Address 344-1 Bongyang-ri, Jeongseoneup, Jeongseon-gun, Gangwon-do
204
| Food Culture of Andong-si |
205
Spicy jjimdak for Lunch,
Healthy heotjesabap for Dinner.
Fine dining from morning till night
Not so long ago, I became a member of the board of directors of the
Royal Asiatic Society Korea Branch, a community where Korean natives
and foreigners living in Korea come together to study and inform others
on Korea’s appeal. About 1,000 members attend weekly lectures or go
on field trips every other week to get to know Korea better. The lectures
and excursions mainly focus on Korea’s history, philosophy, culture or art;
out of all of these topics, I concentrate on the diffusion of Korean culture
through traditional Korean foods. I hold lectures under the theme “Korea’s
food” and let others know about the many appeals of Korea by leading
excursions on Korean food.
I strongly believe that treating foreigners or outsiders with local ethnic
food allows the outsiders to encounter that country’s history, economy,
and ethnic identity. This in turn leads them to experience the country’s
culture in entirely. This is the reason why I decided to treat the RASKB
members to Andong-si’s local unique food instead of introducing them
to the architectural aspects of the city, or other intangible cultural assets,
such as Andong Hahoe Village or Maskdance Performance.
On October 1-2nd, the Royal Asiatic Society, Korea Branch (RASKB)
led an excursion to Andong-si in Gyeongsangbuk-do. The point of
the excursion was not only to experience the renowned Andong
International Maskdance Festival, but also to gain greater insight into the
area’s unique architectural, cultural, and culinary background.
The excursion was led by Jennifer Flinn, who appeared in the
American TV series the Kimchi Chronicles and runs a food blog, with
Heotjesabap (Andong style bibimbap) ⓒKTO
Jennifer Flinn
Born 1980 in the U.S. She became interested in Korea while working as an English teacher in Andong-si,
Gyeongsangbuk-do in 1999. She returned to Korea after studying Korean Literature at UCLA, and started her
own blog about Korean cuisine named Fatman Seoul (fatmanseoul.com). She is a member of the board of
directors at the Royal Asiatic Society-Korea Branch, while going on field trips around the country with over
1000 bloggers. As of 2012, she is an assistant teacher at the Kyung Hee University for Teaching and Learning.
206
207
At a Andong Jjimdak restaurant with members of the
Royal Asiatic Society-Korea Branch ⓒJennifer Flinn
assistance from Pablo Barrera, a Fulbright scholar and researcher on
the connections between architecture and art and culture. They were
accompanied by Brother Anthony, the well-known translator and
president of the RASKB, German Ambassador to Korea Hans-Ulrich
Seidt and his wife. The other attendees included long-term residents of
Korea and visitors spending only a few days in the country.
The excursion group arrived in Andong-si and headed directly to
Andong Market’s famed “Chicken Alley” to try the city’s jjimdak. The
dish consists of chicken, dangmyeon, potatoes, onions and other vegetables
cooked in a unique soy-based sauce. Unlike many Korean dishes that
rely heavily on powdered peppers or pepper paste in order to add flavor
and spice, Andong jjimdak uses fresh or dried peppers, which give the
rich-tasting sauce an extra kick. Although the exact origins of the dish
are a bit of a mystery, with some attributing its development to local
yangban, the first restaurants only appeared in the area about 30 years ago.
Local restaurateurs adopted the dish into a way to successfully compete
with the rise of fried chicken franchises, and are mostly clustered along a
single street inside the market. A few years ago, Andong jjimdak became
a bit of a trend, resulting in several franchises opening up around the
country. None, however, can really match the depth of the sweet and
spicy originals. The group dined in a converted hanok, and washed down
the meal with a few bottles of local Makgeolli.
Following lunch, the group toured a number of historic and cultural
sites in downtown Andong-si, led by Mr. Barrera. They first visited the
Taesamyo Shrine, a Goryeo Dynasty shrine that includes a juxtaposition
of Goryeo and Joseon Dynasty architecture, followed by a quick walk
to see a shaman tree shrine that was also the object of rites conducted
by Andong-si’s Confucian elites, showing the syncretic tendencies of
Korean religious practice. They also spent time exploring Imcheonggak
Shrine, an exemplary Joseon Dynasty residential building, and a rare 7
storey Silla Dynasty brick pagoda. Afterwards they traveled by bus to the
Byeongsanseowon Confucian Academy to appreciate the beautiful natural
setting, architecture, and its connections to local Confucian culture.
Dinner was an opportunity to introduce a few more local culinary
specialties, including salted mackerel and heotjesabap. Heotjesabap was first
served, according to legend, when a young man arrived home too late
for the family’s ancestral rites, but asked to be served the same meal as
required for those rites. In response, the family cooked up a meal of rice,
vegetables and meat for a bibimbap flavored with soy sauce and sesame oil,
but not the conventional pepper paste, and accompanied by fried foods.
View of Hahoe Village ⓒSon Min-ho
208
209
Whether the story is true or not, heotjesabap remains one of Andongsi’s most distinctive and popular local specialties. Salted mackerel is a
similarly uniquely Andong-si dish, and results from the city’s geographic
location at the highest navigable point by boat on the Nakdonggang
River. Mackerel is an oily fish that spoils quickly, and before the advent
of modern refrigeration, salting was one of the best ways to preserve the
fish. Salt fish are found in cultures all over the world, and are particularly
popular in parts of northern Europe. However, European-style salt
fish are usually soaked in milk or water to remove the saltiness before
cooking and eating, but in Andong-si, the distinctive salt tang became
its most cherished characteristic. While it can also be used in soups and
stews, the RASKB group enjoyed theirs grilled, which highlights the
flavor of the salt and the fish’s natural oils. Some members also used
the dinner hour to purchase one of Andong-si’s more potent potables,
a traditional distilled soju with a strong alcoholic punch and distinctive
sour flavor.
The highlight of the evening was a chance to see the Seonyujulbulnori, a
tremendously beautiful and fascinating “fireworks” display that originated
in Andong Hahoe Village. After enjoying the traditional fireworks, the
group retired for the evening in a restored hanok.
After breakfast at a local minbak the next morning, Mr. Barrera led
the group through the village, pointing out important architectural
elements and connecting them with cultural elements, explaining how
philosophical, religious, and personal beliefs manifested themselves
physically in the buildings of the village. The group then proceeded to
the main festival ground in downtown Andong-si, where they were able
to visit a display of local foods, several mask dances, and a shaman gut
before returning to Seoul.
Since the RASKB members are used to typical Korean foods in Seoul,
they were able to learn that there is much more to Korean food, other
than being salty or spicy. There are many more places in Korea other than
Andong-si that include local cultural and historical characteristics in their
local foods. In order to help more foreigners and outsiders to experience
Korean foods and learn more about the appeals of Korea, the Royal
Asiatic Society of Korea will continue with its efforts to spread the Korean
culture through experiences with Korean food. (Published December 23th, 2011)
Look Inside!
Folk Villages of Korea
There are many folk villages in Korea that preserve its traditions. There are 7 folk villages in the country. Like the
UNESCO designated villages of Hahoe and Yangdong, most folk villages were single clan villages of noblemen,
but Naganeupseong Folk Village, was a village of commoners.
Hahoe Village
Naganeupseong Folk Village
An exemplary folk village of Korea, Queen Elizabeth
This is a fortress village that best preserves the folk
II, who had visited the village years back, said it was
atmosphere as well as the 1,410-m-long fortress
the most traditional side of Korea she had seen. As
wall. Established in 1397, this was a village where the
the lineage village of the Pungsan Ryu family, it still
common people, middle-class, lower-class, farmers,
preserves its traditions and customs, which is why it
blacksmiths, etc. lived, which is why there isn’t a
was registered on UNESCO’s World Heritage list last
single tile-roof house. All the straw-roof houses of
year. Over 800,000 tourists visit the village annually,
the Naganeupseong harmonize without a single
and people can also experience the life of the upper-
one standing out. The stone-piled fortress wall, the
class society.
deodeok root liquor, and the gayageum (12-stringed
Address Hahoe-ri, Pungcheon-myeon, Andong-si, Gyeongsang
Korean zither) orchestra are proof that the old
buk-do Web hahoe.or.kr
village was famous for stones, songs, and liquor. On
Yangdong Village
As a noblemen’s village located in the northern area of
Gyeongju, this is the lineage village of the Wolseong
Son family and the Yeogang Lee family. About 150
houses remain to this day, and 54 houses are over
200 years old. Yangdong is the largest folk village in
Korea, and it was also registered on UNESCO’s World
Heritage list. The houses in this village were arranged
along the ridges of a mountain, creating stair-like
view. From far away the village doesn’t look so big,
but as you get closer, you get to see how large it is. If
you want to experience life in the village, rooms are
available.
Address Yangdong-ri, Gangdong-myeon, Gyeongju-si,
Gyeongsangbuk-do Web yangdong.invil.org
weekends, a Korean classical music class is held in
the straw-roof houses, and various other experience
programs are also offered.
Address Namnae-ri, Nagan-myeon, Suncheon-si, Jeollanamdo Web nagan.or.kr
16 Regional
Areas
of Korea
Must-see
Routes
mustseeroutes.or.kr
In memory of the “Visit Korea Year,” we have the following “Must-see Routes.” These
routes include each region’s most traditional and unique charm. Categorized into 16
different regions and 10 themes, these exceptional “Must-see Routes” offer the best a
new and different side of Korea.
Seoul
Incheon
Gangwon-do
Gyeonggi-do
Chungcheongbuk-do
Chungcheongnam-do
Daejeon
Gyeongsangbuk-do
Daegu
Jeollabuk-do
Gyeongsangnam-do
Gwangju
Ulsan
Busan
Jeollanam-do
Jeju
Special Self-Governing Province
(Jejudo Island)
Buyeo, Gungnamji Pond ⓒShin Byeong-mun
212
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
01. Seoul
|
visitseoul.net
|
213
Seoul
The Beating
Hear
of Korea
According CNNgo.com, in Seoul “sleeping is for losers.”
Which means there is so much to do and see in Seoul
at night. During the time, Seoul is fast and furious
Routes 1
15 Minutes
10 Minutes
Bukchon
Hanok Village
Gahoe
Museum
commercial area, but at night, the 24-hour opening cafes,
18 Minutes
Dongdaemun
Shopping
District
20 Minutes
Leeum, Samsung Hangang
Museum of Art
Riverboat
shopping malls, theaters, singing rooms, saunas clubs,
etc. make your stay in Seoul unforgettable. From dusk till
dawn, Seoul is up and lively! It is the hottest city on earth.
Routes 2
10 Minutes
Seolleung
10 Minutes
Apgujeong-dong
Rodeo Street,
Cheongdam-dong
Luxury Street
Bukchon Hanok Village
600-year-old hanok (traditional
house) village where aristocrats of
the Joseon Dynasty used to live.
Sinsa-dong Garosu-gil Road ⓒKTO
Gahoe Museum ⓒKTO
Gahoe Museum
Visitors can experience folk and
traditional cultures of Korea such
as folk paintings and talismans.
Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art ⓒvisitseoul.net
Dosan Park
Sinsa-dong
Garosu-gil
Road
Seolleung
Designated as a UNESCO World
Heritage, it is the royal tomb of
Joseon Dynasty’s 9th king, King
Seongjong.
Apgujeong-dong Rodeo Street &
Cheongdam-dong Luxury Street
Area clustered with designer
brands and high-end shops.
Dongdaemun Shopping District
Open 24 hours, this shopping
district has a wide selection
of clothing, footwears, bags,
accessories and more.
Dosan Park
Name brand shops and hair &
beauty shops line the streets
around the park.
Leeum, Samsung Museum of Art
Museum designed by worldfamous architects Mario Botta,
Jean Nouvel and Rem Koolhaas.
Sinsa-dong Garosu-gil Road
Boutigues of up-and-coming
designers, restaurants and cafe
line Garosu-gil Road.
Hangang Riverboat
Hangang River flows across the
middle of downtown Seoul.
Banpodaegyo Bridge Moonlight Rainbow Fountain ⓒKTO
5 Minutes
214
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
02. Busan
|
tour.busan.go.kr
|
215
Busan
A Port
City Full
of Life
and Energy
Routes 1
Haeundae and Gwangalli. Just by hearing these two
15 Minutes
words, people will automatically think of a romantic
Dalmaji-gil
beachside evening. People enjoying a stroll on the beach,
15 Minutes
15 Minutes
Busan
Aquarium
Haeundae
Beach
Busan
Centum City
people jogging, couples on dates, or friends out partying,
the beaches of Busan are always filled with people
Routes 2
creating special memories. The downtown area is also
15 Minutes
always energetic and lively. Although loud and hectic,
at the traditional markets, you can hear and feel the
25 Minutes
10 Minutes
Gamcheon-dong Gukje Market
Culture Village
Jagalchi
Market
Taejongdae
(Cruise Tour)
Dalmaji-gil
Hill lined with galleries and art
shop, and nice restaurants.
Jagalchi Market
Open from dusk till dawn, it is the
largest fisheries market in Korea.
Busan Aquarium
Ocean-themed aquarium with a
total area of 30,000,000 m2.
Taejongdae
250-m-long coastal landform
consisting of cliffs and unique
rock formations.
affection of the people of Busan.
Gamcheon-dong Culture Village ⓒKTO
Haeundae Beach
Beautiful beach, yacht marina,
luxury hotels, shopping mall, etc.
Busan Centum City
Largest mall in the world with a
spa, skating rink, movie theaters,
and more.
Busan Centum City ⓒBusan Centum City
Gamcheon-dong Culture Village
Famous for murals drawn by your
artists.
Haeundae Beach ⓒKTO
Jagalchi Market ⓒKTO
Gukje Market
Busan’s largest traditional market,
is a must-visit amongst the
“fashion people”.
216
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
03. Daegu
|
tour.daegu.go.kr
|
217
Route
20 Minutes
Daegu
Herb Hills
Fashion & Hair,
City of
Healthy Living
15 Minutes
5 Minutes
Yangnyeongsi
Oriental Medicine
Culture Center
Jin Alley(Modern
Architecture
Street)
Anjirang
Market
Herb Hills
Herb theme park offering various
herb related attractions and
programs.
Jin Alley (Modern Architecture
Street)
Street portraying Korea’s modern
architecture.
Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine
Culture Center
Oldest Oriental herbs market in
Korea guaranteeing the best herbs
in the country.
Anjirang Market
Cluster of spicy, Daegu-style beef
tripe restaurants.
Daegu is a transportation hub
that connects Seoul to southern
regions of Korea. It is said that
there are many pretty people in
Daegu, and it is famous for apples,
oriental medicine and well-being
tours. This Confucian city is usually
very calm and quiet, but through
the IAAF World Championships
Jin Alley ⓒKTO
Daegu 2011, it let the whole
world know what Daegu was
all about. Daegu is a good stopover location when traveling from
Seoul to the southern regions, and
unlike other regional areas, Daegu
is very hip and fashionable.
Yangnyeongsi Oriental Medicine Culture Center ⓒKTO
Herb Hills ⓒHerb Hills
218
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
04. Incheon
|
itour.visitincheon.org
|
219
Incheon
City with
3 Histories
and Cultures
Every city has a history and culture of its own, but
Incheon’s long and proud history has many roots.
Home of the Incheon International Airport, Incheon
is where ancient dolmens of the Bronze era and the
Routes 1
5 Minutes
40 Minutes
5 Minutes
Gwandong
Chinatown
Modern
Architecture Street
Art Platform
35 Minutes
Songdo
Central Park
Wolmido
Riverboat
Chamseongdan Altar built in BC 2333 in Manisan
Mountain can still be seen. This is also where western
cultures were first accepted in the 19th century. Incheon
embraces history and traditional while also striving for
Routes 2
10 Minutes
Goryeo
Palace Site
15 Minutes
Ganghwa
Anglican Church
the future.
Gwandong Modern Architec
ture Street
Centered on the first westernstyle park in Korea, this street is a
collage of modern architecture.
50 Minutes
Ganghwa Dolmen Site
(UNESCO World
Heritage)
Manisan
Mountain
Goryeo Palace Site
After Mongolia invaded Korea in
1232, Goryeo moved its capital
and palace here.
Ganghwa Anglican Church
Chinatown ⓒKTO
Chinatown
With the opening of Incheonhang
Port in 1883, Chinese people came
to Korea and formed this town.
Art Platform
Red brick warehouse was turned
into a creative studio for arts and
culture.
Gwandong Modern Architecture Street
ⓒIncheon Metropolitan City
Incheondaegyo Bridge ⓒIncheon Bridge Co., Ltd.
Art Platform ⓒIncheon Metropolitan City
Songdo Central Park
Beautiful park in Songdo, the
international business district
recently built in Incheon.
Wolmido Riverboat
Starting at Wolmido, this ferry
stops at Incheon Int’l Airport,
Yeongjongdaegyo Bridge and
other landmarks of Incheon.
This basilica was built in the
1900s using traditional Korean
architecture.
Ganghwa Dolmen Site
D o l m e n s o f t h e B ro n ze e ra
(UNESCO World Heritage).
Manisan Mountain
Home of Chamseongdan Altar,
where Dangun, the progenitor
and founder of a nation, held
ritual services to the heavens.
220
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
05. Gwangju
|
utour.gwangju.go.kr
|
221
Gwangju
Route
30 Minutes
Juknokwon
Garden
(Damyang-gun)
City of Art
and Revolution
Juknokwon Garden
160,000 m 2 bamboo garden. A
2.2-km hiking trail winds through
300-year-old bamboo trees.
40 Minutes
Soswaewon
Garden
(Damyang-gun)
Soswaewon Garden
Private garden built in the 1520s;
it demonstrates the features of a
traditional Korean garden.
Uijae Museum
of Korean Art
Uijae Museum of Korean Art
Museum located at the entrance
of Mudeungsan Mountain.
Commemorates and exhibits over
60 works of painter Heo Baekryeon (1891–1977; penname
Uijae).
Gwangju is a city of art and literature.
You can see a great collection of worldfamous modern art at the Gwangju
Biennale, held here every fall. A number
of large and small exhibits are held
throughout the city and the green forests
of Mudeungsan Mountain decorate the
center of the city. Gwangju is also the
city or revolution and freedom. The April
May 18 Mangwol-dong Cemetery ⓒKTO
19th Democratic Revolution, and the
May 18th Democratic Movement are very
important historic events that took place
in Gwangju. Recently, UNESCO added
the “Documents on the pro-democracy
uprising in Gwangju on May 18, 1980” on
its Memory of the World list.
Uijae Museum of Korean Art ⓒUijae Art Museum
Juknokwon Garden ⓒKTO
222
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
06. Daejeon
|
daejeontour.or.kr
|
223
Route
10 Minutes
Daejeon
Expo
Science Park
City of Education,
and Hot Springs
15 Minutes
45 Minutes
Currency
Yuseong
Museum of Korea Hot Springs
Expo Science Park
Science theme park equipped
with state-of-art technology to
bring people closer to science.
Currency Museum of Korea
Displays and exhibits currency of
Korea and other countries as well.
Gyejoksan
Mountain,
Red Clay Trail
Yuseong Hot Springs
Famous for being a favored
resting area for kings of the
Joseon Dynasty, and its prime
location.
Gyejoksan Mountain, Red Clay
Trail
200 to 300 above sea level, this
13-km-long walking trail is best
when walked barefoot.
Home of KAIST (Korea Advanced
Institute of Science and
Technology), where Korea’s
smartest students are, Daejeon
is also a popular hot springs
area. It is recorded that Joseon
Dynasty’s first king, King Taejo
spent a night at a hot spring in
Daejeon. The hot springs area
Currency Museum of Korea ⓒKTO
in Yuseong is not very large, but
has the longest history, and it
located in the middle of the city.
And, as the city of education,
Daejeon has many science and
technology related museums,
exhibition halls and parks.
Gyejoksan Mountain, Red Clay Trail ⓒDaedeok-gu District Office
Expo Science Park ⓒKTO
224
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
07. Ulsan
|
guide.ulsan.go.kr
|
225
Route
15 Minutes
Ulsan
Bangudae
Petroglyph Rock
Industrial City
Where Whales
Used to Live
30 Minutes
Cheonjeon-ri
Petroglyphs
Bangudae Petroglyph Rock
Cave painting on a 10 m wide and
3 m high rock surface.
Cheonjeon-ri Petroglyphs
Rock ar t proving life in the
Prehistoric Era and up to the Silla
Dynasty.
1 Hour
Amethyst
Cavern Park
Amethyst Cavern Park
Man-made cave tourist area built
in an amethyst cave from over
6,500 years ago.
40 Minutes
Jangsaengpo
Whale Museum
Daewangam
Park
Daewangam Park
Park centered on Daewangam
Rock Tomb, which is believed
to be where the queen of King
Munmu is buried.
Jangsaengpo Whale Museum
Displays everything there is know
about whales and Korea’s whale
fishing history.
Ulsan houses Korea’s largest
industrial complex. Rock
carvings depicting the life and
cultures of the Prehistoric and
the Bronze eras can be found in
this industrial city. Additionally,
Korea’s largest whale fishing port,
Jangsaengpo, and a 6,500-yearold amethyst cave offer many
Shipyard (Hyundai Heavy Industries) ⓒKTO
interesting sites. But above all,
Ulsan is the home of the world’s
No. 1 ship-building yard.
Jangsaengpo Whale Museum ⓒKTO
Daewangam Park ⓒKTO
226
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
08. Gyeonggi-do
|
ggtour.or.kr
|
227
Gyeonggi-do
Closest Weekend Outing
Destination
from Seoul
Routes 1
Encircling the entire city of Seoul, Gyeonggi-do
10 Minutes
is where citizens of Seoul go to the most for a
Shinsegae
Simon Premium
Outlets
weekend getaway. Not only is it close to Seoul,
but whichever way you go; north, south, east or
25 Minutes
Heyri
Art Valley
30 Minutes
Imjingak
The Botanical
Pyeonghoa-Nuri Garden of BCJ
west, there is always something fun and exciting
Routes 2
to do. There are various cultural experience sites,
35 Minutes
amusement parks, UNESCO heritage sites, the DMZ,
Donggurong
Royal Tomb
(UNESCO World
Heritage Site)
shopping outlets, resorts and much more. People
can escape the hectic city life and enjoy the fresh
40 Minutes
Moran Museum
of Art
15 Minutes
Semiwon
Garden
Sujongsa
Temple
outdoors.
Shinsegae Simon Premium
Outlets
Over 250,000 shoppers visited
within 4 days of opening.
Heyri Art Valley
O ve r 3 8 0 a r t i s t s, i n c l u d i n g
painters, musicians, writers, etc.,
gather and created this artists’
village.
Imjingak Pyeonghoa-Nuri
Built across from Imjingak
Pavilion, which is a painful symbol
of division.
Donggurong Royal Tomb ⓒKTO
The Botanical Garden of BCJ
More than 1,400 species of plants
and natural stones beautifully
decorate the 120,000 m2 garden.
Shinsegae Simon Premium Outlets ⓒShinsegae Simon
Imjingak Pyeonghoa-Nuri ⓒKTO
Donggurong Royal Tombs
Tomb complex consisting of 9
tombs of Joseon Dynasty royalty,
including that of King Taejo
(UNESCO World Heritage).
Moran Museum of Art
Sculpture ar t museum amid
beautiful natural surroundings.
Semiwon Garden
Self-purifying garden with over
100 kinds of water lilies and a
large lotus garden.
Sujongsa Temple
Temple from the Joseon Dynasty
located amid the 606-m-tall
Ungilsan Mountain.
228
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
09. Gangwon-do
|
gangwon.to
|
229
Gangwon-do
A Gift
from Mother
Nature
Routes 1
If you see a beautiful and romantic outdoor scene in
2 Hours 30 Minutes
a Korean movie or drama, it was most likely filmed
Jade Garden
somewhere in Gangwon-do. From hills covered with
55 Minutes
Woljeongsa
Temple
Daegwallyeong
Samyang Ranch
Alpensia
Resort
beautiful spring flowers to sparkling summer seas, vibrant
golds and reds of autumn, and white colored winters,
Routes 2
Gangwon-do has it all. 82% of the entire province is a
30 Minutes
mountainous region, and Pyeongchang-gun, has been
Sea Train
selected to host the 2018 Winter Olympic Games.
Jade Garden ⓒKTO
1 Hour 5 Minutes
Haslla
Art World
Alpensia Resort ⓒKTO
Mureung
Valley
Hwanseongul
Cave
Haslla Art World
Art park offering various exhibitions
and performances throughout the
year.
Woljeongsa Temple
Houses the Seongbo Museum
of Buddhist Art, and a fir tree
walking trail.
Mureung Valley
Beautiful valley said to be the
resting area of Taoist hermits.
Alpensia Resort
Ski resort scheduled to be the
main stadium for the 2018 Winter
Olympics.
Sea Train
From Gangneung-si, to Donghaesi then Samcheok-si, this sea tea
runs 58 km along the East Sea.
Sea Train ⓒKTO
55 Minutes
Jade Garden
Arboretum designed with the
concept of “Little Europe in the
Forest”.
Daegwallyeong Samyang Ranch
Largest ranch in the Orient with
healthy grasslands and herds of
cows.
Daegwallyeong Samyang Ranch ⓒKTO
35 Minutes
Hwanseongul Cave
Largest limestone cave with
unique rock formations and rare
cave organism.
230
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
10. Chungcheongbuk-do
|
chungbuknadri.net
|
231
Chungcheongbuk-do
Routes 1
35 Minutes
Jecheon
Medicinal
Herb Market
A Lakeside City
Surrounded
by Mountains
55 Minutes
Gosu Cave
35 Minutes
Jeongbangsa
Temple
Chungjuho
Lake
Routes 2
10 Minutes
Sangdang
-sanseong
Fortress
Situated in the center of the
30 Minutes
Cheongju
National
Museum
Jecheon Medicinal Herb Market
One of the country’s top 3 medicinal
herb market, it circulates fresh and
healthy herbs gathered from the
Taebaek Mountain Range.
peninsula, Chungcheongbukdo is surrounded by lakes and
mountains. Chungjuho Lake is
often dubbed the ocean of the
mainland, and the ferry tour
Sangdangsanseong Fortress ⓒKTO
Gosu Cave
Stunning limestone cave formed
since the early Paleozoic era.
offers spectacular views of the
Jeongbangsa Temple
Located 1,016 m above sea level,
its main shrine is surrounded by a
rock face.
lake. Popular tourist attractions
of this lakeside province include
the millennial temple called
Jeongbangsa, Baekje Dynasty’s
Chungjuho Lake
Gosu Cave ⓒKTO
Sangdangsanseong Fortress, the
Cheongnamdae Presidential Villa,
Large lake flowing 52 km from
Chungju-si to Danyang-gun.
Sangdangsanseong Fortress
Fortress wall running 4.2 km
along the ridges of Sangdangsan
Mountain(491 m).
and Korea’s only winery.
Chungjuho Lake ⓒKTO
Winery Tour ⓒKTO
1 Hour 25 Minutes
Cheongnamdae
Presidential Villa
Winery
Tour
Cheongju National Museum
Designed by Kim Swoo-geun, one
of Korea’s most praised architects.
Cheongnamdae Presidential Villa
Built in 1983, it was the vacation
villa for numerous presidents of
Korea.
Winery Tour
You can taste and sample wines
produced in over 40 vineyards in
Korea.
232
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
11. Chungcheongnam-do
|
tour.chungnam.net
|
233
Chungcheongnam-do
Routes 1
1 Hour 9 Minutes
Cheollipo
Arboretum
Health
Presented
by the Western Sea
50 Minutes
Cheonsuman
Bay
Boryeong Mud
Skincare Center
Muchangpo
Beach
Routes 2
35 Minutes
Baekje
Cultural Land
To u c h i n g t h e Ye l l o w S e a ,
C hu n gcheongnam-do was
always famous for its hot springs
and wide areas of mud flats. A
number of resorts are located
along the beach so people can
Magoksa Temple ⓒKTO
rest and relax on beach and while
also enjoying the goodness of
40 Minutes
Gongju National
Museum
to Cheollipo Arboretum, the only
arboretum in Asia to be designate
Cheollipo Arboretum ⓒKTO
an Arboretum Distinguished for
where spectacular miracle of
Cheonsuman Bay ⓒKTO
Boryeong Mud Festival ⓒKTO
Oeam Folk
Village
Cheonsuman Bay
Photographers from around the
world camp out here to see flocks
of Baikal teals.
Magoksa Temple
Temple of the Silla Kingdom,
it boasts exquisite temple
a rc h i t e c t u re a n d e l a b o r a t e
ornaments.
Muchangpo Beach
4 to 5 times a year, visitors can see
the Moses’ Miracle.
Baekje Cultural Land
Cultural complex in Buyeo, Baekje
Kingdom’s last capital city.
the world; and Muchangpo Beach,
Magoksa
Temple
Gongju National Museum
Stores and exhibits over 16,000
cultural properties including
19 National Treasures and 3
Treasures.
Merit; Cheonsuman Bay, praised
by photographers from around
55 Minutes
Cheollipo Arboretum
Beginning with beautiful
magnolias, plants and flowers
collected from over 60 countries
around the world are housed here.
Boryeong Mud Skincare Center Experience the amazing benefits
of Boryeong mud.
nature. The province is also home
Moses’ can be seen.
20 Minutes
Oeam Folk Village
Village of Joseon Dynasty nobles
formed about 500 years ago.
234
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
12. Jeollabuk-do
|
gojb.net
|
235
Jeollabuk-do
Routes 1
5 Minutes
Maisan
Mountain
Taste
and Style
of Korea
Jinan Red
Ginseng Spa
10 Minutes
Jeonju
Hanok Village
Seosin-dong
Makgeolli
Town
Routes 2
30 Minutes
Chaeseokgang
Cliffs
Foods including Jeonju bibimbap
(rice topped with vegetables and
meat) and Jeonju kongnamul
gukbap (bean sprout soup with rice),
Pungcheon jangeo (eel), Namwon
chueotang (loach soup), and Jeonju
Jeonju Hanok Village ⓒKTO
makgeolli table, are enough to invite
and keep tourists in Jeollabuk-do.
50 Minutes
Naesosa
Temple
the province is Jeonju-si, home of
Jeonju bibimbap, and Jeonju Hanok
Village. Other popular attractions
Naesosa Temple ⓒKTO
in Jeonju-si are the mystical Maisan
Mountain and Chaeseokgang Cliffs,
Naesosa Temple and its fir tree lined
trail, and the UNESCO designated
Maisan Mountain ⓒKTO
Chaeseokgang Cliffs ⓒKTO
15 Minutes
Gochang
Dolmen Site
Gochangeupseong
Fortress
Maisan Mountain
This mystical mountain is
composed of two peaks shaped
like horse ears.
Naesosa Temple
Temple from the Baekje Kindom
famous for the 600-m-long fir tree
trail on the entrance.
Jinan Red Ginseng Spa
Korean medicine facility that
offers one-on-one consultations
and various therapeutic treatments
using red ginseng from Jinan-gun.
Gochang Dolmen Site
UNESCO heritage site with Korea’s
largest cluster of dolmens.
Jeonju Hanok Village
O ver 700 traditional homes
(hanok) are clustered in this
traditional village.
The most representative city of
Gochang Dolmen Site.
45 Minutes
Seosin-dong Makgeolli Town
Restaurants here only charge for
makgeolli, and serve a tableful of
delicious side dishes.
Chaeseokgang Cliffs
Created from layers of 70 millionyear- old sedimentar y rocks
stratified by the sea.
Gochangeupseong Fortress
Korea’s best preserved fortress
constructed in 1453.
236
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
13. Jeollanam-do
|
namdokorea.com
|
237
Routes 1
2 Hours 10 Minutes
1 Hour
Jeollanam-do
Islands dot the southern sea like the stars
Mokpo
Gatbawi
Cultural Town
in the sky. The Boseong green tea leafs
carpet the fields like a velvet carpet. The
Landscape of
the Southern Sea
Uhang-ri
Dinosaur
Museum
+
30 Minutes
Jindo
Mysterious
Sea Route
Jodo Islands
(Dorisan
Observatory)
Routes 2
radiant sun setting over the 5,000-year-
15 Minutes
old Suncheonman Bay. These are just a
Boseong
Green Tea
Fields
few natural attractions that can be seen in
Jeollanam-do. Travelers can see the different
1 Hour 20 Minutes
40 Minutes
Yulpo Seawater Songgwangsa
Green Tea
Temple
Bath
Naganeupseong
Folk Village
Routes 3
colors of nature through the change of
1 Hour 5 Minutes
seasons.
Suncheonman
Bay
Mokpo Gatbawi Cultural Town
Cultural town that houses the
National Research Institute of
Maritime Cultural Heritage, the
Mokpo Natural History Museum,
the Mokpo Ceramic Living ware
Museum, etc.
Uhang-ri Dinosaur Museum
Only fossil site in the world where
fossils of dinosaurs, pterosaurs,
and footprints were discovered in
a single stratum layer.
Jindo Mysterious Sea Route
Famous as the site where Moses’
miracle can be seen.
Suncheonman Bay ⓒKTO
1 Hour
Jodo Islands (Dorisan Obser
vatory)
154 islands dot the ocean like
stepping stones in a pond.
40 Minutes
Odongdo
Island
Boseong Green Tea Fields
Home of Korean green tea, 40%
of the country’s green tea is from
the lush fields in Boseong-gun.
Yulpo Seawater Green Tea Bath
Natural seawater pumped from
120 m bellow ground is made
into a green tea bath.
Songgwangsa Temple
Compo-sed of more than 80
wooden buildings, it became
a “precious” temple for having
produced many respectable monks.
Naganeupseong Folk Village
Village planned dur ing the
Joseon era, it still preserves its
original appearance.
1 Hour 10 Minutes
Hyangiram
Hermitage
Yeosu Industrial
Complex
Nightscape
Suncheonman Bay
Mudflat for-med over a period of
5,000 years, it was voted as one
of the top 10 beautiful sunsets
amongst Korean photographers.
Odongdo Island
Connec ted to Yeosu-si by a
seawall road to the east, it has the
largest group of camellia trees.
Hyangiram Hermitage
No. 1 sunrise of the southern sea,
it offers a magnificent view of the
Dadohaehaesang National Park
and lush camellia tree forest.
Yeosu Industrial Complex Nightscape
Largest industrial complex in the
Orient, it lights Yeosu-si 24-hours
a day.
238
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
14. Gyeongsangbuk-do
|
gbtour.net
|
239
Routes 1
1 Hour 25 Minutes
Gyeongsangbuk-do
Gyeongsangbuk-do is where Andong-si,
Yeongdeok
Jukdo Market
Goesi-ri
Traditional Village
praised by Queen Elizabeth II as the most
traditional Korean village, and Gyeongju-
The Most
Korean Place
in Korea
35 Minutes
Oeosa Temple
Yangdong
Folk Village
Routes 2
si, the ancient capital of the Silla Kingdom
35 Minutes
where Buddhist flourished are located.
Gyeongju
National
Museum
Nowhere else in Korea will you see and
experience more tradition, culture and
35 Minutes
Daereungwon
Tomb
Complex
35 Minutes
Conmaul
Hospital
of Oriental
Medicine
Gyeongju
Namsan Mountain
Moonlight Tour
Routes 3
history of Korea. You can spend a night at a
20 Minutes
traditional residence and experience the lives
Byeongsan
seowon
Confucian
Academy
of Korea’s ancestors.
Yeongdeok Goesi-ri Traditional
Village
Hometown of Confucian scholar
from the Joseon Dynasty, Mogeun
Lee Saek.
Jukdo Market
Largest market on the east coast,
a group of street venders formed
this market in the 1950s.
Oeosa Temple
Surrounded by a lake and unique
rock formations, the 4 great
Buddhist monks of the Silla
Kingdom were from this temple.
Andong Hahoe Village ⓒKTO
35 Minutes
Yangdong Folk Village
Houses of the village still preserve
traditional layouts of over 500
years ago. Village was designated
a UNESCO World Heritage.
20 Minutes
Andong
Hahoe Village
Gyeongju National Museum
You can see and learn about
millennial kingdom of Silla in a
short time.
Daereungwon Tomb Complex
23 royal tombs of Silla’s kings, queens
and the royal family are scattered
throughout downtown Gyeongju-si.
Conmaul Hospital of Oriental
Medicine
Eco-friendly architecture and design,
the hospital offers a great variety of
Oriental medicine programs.
Gyeongju Namsan Mountain
Moonlight Tour
Views and scenes not viewable
during the day, the mystical ancient
city of Gyeongju-si unveils under
the moonlight.
40 Minutes
Buyongdae
Cliff
Sinse-dong
Mural Village
Byeongsanseowon Confucian
Academy
One of the 5 main Confucian
academies of the Joseon Dynasty,
it is a great example of Korean
wooden architecture.
Andong Hahoe Village
Praised by Queen Elizabeth II,
as the most traditional area in
Korea. Designated as a UNESCO
World Heritage.
Buyongdae Cliff
Located to the north of Hahoe
Village, the entire Hahoe Village
can be seen atop Buyongdae.
Sinse-dong Mural Village
As if an art museum had been
brought outdoors, murals decorate
the walls and buildings of this village.
240
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
|
15. Gyeongsangnam-do
|
gntour.com
|
241
Routes 1
Gyeongsangnam-do
10 Minutes
Haeinsa Temple
Mountain
and Maritime
National Parks
1 Hour 40 Minutes
Hongnyudong
Valley
1 Hour 25 Minutes
Jinjuseong
Fortress
German
Village
Routes 2
15 Minutes
Dongpirang
Mural Village
Gyeongsangnam-do is rich in
natural and traditional heritage.
haeinsa Temple, which houses
the UNESCO designated Tripitaka
Koreana printing woodblocks, the
Hallyeohaesang National Park,
Haeinsa Temple ⓒKTO
1 Hour 20 Minutes
Ropeway
Overlooking
Hallyeosudo
Haeinsa Temple
House the UNESCO designated
Tr i p i t a k a K o r e a n a P r i n t i n g
Woodblocks and its depositories.
Hongnyudong Valley
Valley stretching about 4 km from
the entrance of Gayasan National
Park to Haeinsa Temple.
which is often dubbed the Napoli
Jinjuseong Fortress
Home to Chokseongnu Pavilion,
one of the three major pavilions
of Korea.
of the Orient, and Jirisan National
Park are all spectacular natural
attractions in Gyeongsangnamdo. You can take a riverboat tour
to see the extraordinary beauty of
Ropeway Overlooking Hallyeosudo ⓒKTO
the sea.
Somaemuldo Island ⓒKTO
Dongpirang Mural Village ⓒKTO
German Village
Red roofs over white walls, this
village depicts a typical German
farming village.
Dongpirang Mural Village
Painters from around the country
saved this village, which was
on the verge of demolition, by
drawing murals on the fences of
this village.
30 Minutes
Haegeumgang
Riverboat
Oedo
Botania
Ropeway Overlooking
Hallyeosudo
1,975-m-long ropeway from
Mireuksan Mountain overlooks
the Hallyeohaesang National Park.
Haegeumgang Riverboat
Riverboat touring through
mesmerizing attractions along
Haegeumgang Island.
Oedo Botania
Located within the Hallyeohaesang
National Park, this botanical
garden offers splendid vistas.
242
|
16 Regional Areas of Korea + Must-see Routes
| 16. Jeju Special Self-Governing Province |
jejutour.go.kr
|
243
Routes 1
Jeju
Special Self-Governing Province
40 Minutes
55 Minutes
Hallasan
National Park
5 Minutes
Kimnyoung
Maze Park
+
15 Minutes
Manjanggul
Cave
Udo Island
( Jejudo Island)
Routes 2
35 Minutes
A World Heritage Created
by a Volcanic Eruption
Seongsan
Ilchulbong Peak
The largest island of Korea, Jeju
45 Minutes
Bijarim
Forest
Hallasan National Park
Mountain formed by a volcanic
eruption in the center of the
island.
Special Self-governing Province
was formed due to a volcanic
eruption over a million years
Kimnyoung Maze Park
Designed by maze designer Adrin
Fisher and built by Frederic H.
Dustin, an American who fell in
love with Jejudo Island.
ago. Lava spewing from Hallasan
Mountain, located in the center
of the island, created numerous
caves, cliffs, waterfall and other
natural creations while flowing
Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak ⓒKTO
towards the ocean. About 10%
of this popular tourist island
Manjanggul Cave
Lava tube registered as a UNESCO
World Heritage site.
Udo Island
Located east of Jejudo Island, it is
often referred to as an island of an
island. Also a volcanic island it has a
circumference of 17 km.
has been designated a UNESCO
World Heritage.
Jusangjeolli Cliff ⓒKTO
Udo Island ⓒKTO
Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak
Landform created by an
underwater volcanic eruption,
this crown-shaped tuff cone is a
UNESCO Global Geopark.
50 Minutes
Kim Young-gap
Gallery Dumoak
Soesokkak
Estuary
Bijarim Forest
Home to over 3,000 nutmeg trees
about 300 to 800 years old.
Kim Young-gap Gallery
Dumoak
Exhibits photos taken by late
photographer Kim Young-gap,
who dedicated his entire life to
taking pictures of Jejudo Island.
Soesokkak Estuary
Unique rock formations and a
dense forest created this beautiful
natural attraction.
244
| Recommended Routes by Theme |
245
Themed
Must-see Routes
Theme 1
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
➊Seoul “Capital of Korea and Home of World Cultural Sites
and Traditional Culture”
Jongmyo Shrine → Insa-dong → Changdeokgung Palace →
Bukchon Hanok Village → Samcheong-dong
➋Gyeongju “City with History and Culture of the Silla
Period for a Millennium”
Bulguksa Temple → Seokguram Grotto → Yoseokgung →
Recommended must-see routes of Korea
are categorized by theme. Choose the
theme of your tour and select from the
Hall → Seosin-dong Makgeolli Village → Hanok Experience
Culture”
➋Seoul “City Where Tradition and Modernity Co-Exist”
Baekje Cultural Complex → Yeonipbap → Gongju National
Kimchi Museum → COEX → Bongeunsa Temple (Templestay)
Museum → Magoksa Temple (Templestay)
→ Korea House
➌Gyeonggi-do “Birthplace of Icheon Rice and Suwon
Galbi Enjoyed by Royal Famillies”
Icheon Ceramic Village → Ssambap jeongsik → Suwonhwaseong
Fortress
Gyeongju National Museum → Bomun Lake Resort
Health Care
Korean Villages”
Andong Folk Museum → Andong-jjimdak → Andong Hahoe
➊Seoul “State-of-the-Art Medical Technology and
Outstand Services”
Namiseom Island → Chuncheon-makguksu → Daegwallyeong
Village → Buyongdae Cliff → Old House Experience
Health Screening at a General Hospital → Hanbang (Oriental
➌Jeollanam-do “Historic Cities with Colorful Four Seasons”
Shopping
Latest Trendy Items”
Itaewon → Hannam- dong → Apgujeong- dong →
➋Daegu “Home of Traditional Oriental Medicine”
Daegu Yangnyeongsi Herb Market → Hanbang-samgyetang
→ Daegu Yangnyeongsi Museum of Oriental Medicine →
Donghwasa Temple (Tea Ceremony) → Dongseongno
Outstanding Nature”
Alpensia Resort → Pollack and Buckwheat Dish → Jeongseon
Mountain Trekking → Silla Millennium Park → Ragung
Railbike → Hwaam Cave → Kangwon Land
Ecological Tourism
➌Busan “Vibrant, Exotic Port City”
Theme 6
Centum City → Haeundae Beach → Nampo-dong Guje
➊Gyeongsangnam-do “Gorgeous Coastal Landscape and
Market → Jagalchi Market → Gwangalli Beach
Emerald Blue Sea”
Beauty Care
Cheongdam-dong → Dosan Park
➋Chungcheongnam-do “The West Coast to Soothe Your
Mind and Body”
Boryeong Mud Skincare Center → Taean Seafood → Chollipo
Gyeongsangnam-do
Gwangju
Ulsan
➋Jeollanam-do “Slow City for a Leisurely Life”
Slow City Changpyeong → Damyang Tteok-galbi →
Juknokwon Garden → Slow City Jeungdo Island
➌Jejudo Island “Vacation Island with Pristine Nature at Its
Best”
Jeju Olle Trails → Mulhoe → Hallasan National Park (Trails)
Seomyeon Medical Street → Bujeon Ginseng Market → Dongnae-
➊Seoul “Harmony of Urban and Traditional Landscapes”
pajeon and Milmyeon → Centum City Spa Land
Gyeongbokgung Palace → Seochon Hanok Street →
Samgyetang → National Museum of Korea → Itaewon
Food
➊Jeollabuk-do “Place to Appreciate Korean Food with a
Jeju
Special Self-Governing Province
Traditional Culture
Theme 7
Theme 4
Rich Heritage”
Jeonju Hanok Village → Jeonju Bibimbap → Gyeonggijeon
➋Gyeonggi-do “Exciting Water Sports on the Hangang
River and Cheongpyeong Lake”
Misari Motorboat Racing Park → Naengmyeon and Noodle
Dish → Namyangju Studio Complex → Cheongpyeong Water
Sports Town
➌Jejudo Island “Endless Attractions of the Blue Ocean”
Jejudo Island Yachting Tour → Mackerel and Hairtail Dishes
→ Soesokkak Estuary Transparent Kayak Experience →
Cheonjiyeon Falls
Theme 10
Advanced Industry
➊Daejeon “Future of the Advanced Science City”
Daejeon Aqua World → Expo Science Park → Korea Aerospace
➌ Busan “Center of Rising Medical Tourism”
Busan
Jeollanam-do
(Jejudo Island)
Hyangiram Hermitage → Suncheonman Bay
Arboretum → Resom Ocean Castle
Daegu
Jeollabuk-do
Leisure Sports
Conmaul Gyeongju Oriental Hospital → Ssambap → Namsan
Hotel Spas → Nail Care and Skin Care → Hair Salons in
Daejeon
Theme 9
➋Gyeonggi-do “Luxury Shopping Towns, Ideal for
Weekend Sojourns”
➊Seoul “Center of Luxury Fashion and Beauty Care Trends”
Gyeongsangbuk-do
→ Damyang Metasequoia Forest Road
➊Gangwon-do “Heaven of Leisure Sports Surrounded by
Theme 3
Chungcheongnam-do
Seryangji Lake → Full-Course Korean Meal → Soswaewon Garden
a Histric City”
Daraengi Village → Haemul-doenjang-jjigae and Makgeolli →
Chungcheongbuk-do
Sheep Ranch → Seoraksan National Park
➌Gyeongju “Searching for Healty Traditional Mendicine in
Yeoju Premium Outlets → Paju Premium Outlets → Ilsan Lake
Gyeonggi-do
➋Gangwon-do“Beautiful Mountains, Valleys, and East Sea”
Cheongdam-dong → Garosu-gil Road
Park → Lafesta
Gangwon-do
→ Jungmun Resort
Theme 5
➊Seoul “Home to Chic Shopping Attractions and the
Incheon
Million Years Ago”
➌Gyeongsangbuk-do “Preserving the Spirit of Traditional
Theme 2
Seoul
Natural Attractions
Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak → Abalone Dish → Seopjikoji Coast
Medicine) Dish → Spa & Sauna → Temple Food
following routes.
Theme 8
➊Jejudo Island “Island Made of Volcanic Activities One
➋Jeollabuk-do “City of Traditional Culture and Art”
Jeonju Hanji Museum → Jeonju Bibimbap → Jeonju Hanbang
Cultural Center → Jeonju Hanok Village → Hanok Experience
➌Chungcheongnam-do “Home of the Baekje History and
Research Institute → Yuseong Spa
➋Seoul “Technology for Humans, Future for Cities”
Samsung Dlight → Gangnam Station → T.um → Digital
Pavilion → Hongik University
➌Incheon “City of Future with Unique Art and Cultural
Heritage”
Incheon Art Platform → Incheon China Town → Tomorrow
City → Songdo Central Park
246
| Travel Information |
247
General Information
Transportation
Currency
Airports
The Korean unit of currency is the won (\). It consists
Cellular Phones If you forgot or can’t change your
of a 50,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000 won note, and
phone to roaming, KT, SK and LG, Korea’s major phone
500, 100, 50, 10 won coins. There are bank windows at
service providers, have cellular phone rental booths
➊ Gimpo Int’l Airport
the Incheon International Airport, and at shops within
at the airport.
➋ Incheon Int’l Airport airport.or.kr
032-741-0114
the airport, downtown hotels, duty free shops accept
Area Codes in Korea (D.D.D.)
➌ Jeju Int’l Airport
jeju.airport.co.kr
064-797-2114
051
➍ Gimhae Int’l Airport
gimhae.airport.co.kr
051-972-3010
➎ Cheongju Int’l Airport cheongju.airport.co.kr 043-210-6114
Seoul
U.S. dollars.
02
Busan
Credit Cards There are many banks, money exchangers
Daegu
053
Incheon
032
and ATMs throughout Korea. Major credit cards are
Gwangju
062
Daejeon
042
accepted in most restaurants, cafes, malls, etc.
Ulsan
052
Gyeonggi-do
031
Exchange Rate
Gangwon-do
033
Chungcheong
043
buk-do
USD
CNY
JPY
EUR
1$
10¥
100¥
1€
1,098\
1,757\
1,372\
1,420\
*As of October, 2012
Chungcheong
041
nam-do
Jeollanam-do 061
Gyeongsang
nam-do
055
Sejong
044
Jeollabuk-do
063
Gyeongsang
buk-do
054
Jejudo Island
064
Electricity
Airport
➏ Daegu Int’l Airport
Website
gimpo.airport.co.kr
daegu.airport.co.kr
Tel
02-2660-2114
➐
➊
➋
➎
053-980-5290
➐ Yangyang Int’l Airport yangyang.airport.co.kr 033-670-7114
➓
➑ Gwangju Int’l Airport gwangju.airport.co.kr 062-940-0214
➒ Muan Int’l Airport
muan.airport.co.kr
061-455-2114
➓ Gunsan Airport
gunsan.airport.co.kr
063-469-8345
Pohang Airport
pohang.airport.co.kr
Yeosu Airport
yeosu.airport.co.kr
054-289-7309
061-683-7997
Ulsan Airport
ulsan.airport.co.kr
052-219-6309
Wonju Airport
wonju.airport.co.kr
033-344-3311
Sacheon Airport
sacheon.airport.co.kr
055-852-0768
➏
➑
➒
➍
➌
The standard voltage in Korea is 220 volts, and the
Internet
outlet has two round holes. If you do not have a
Most hotels have a computer/internet area for its
multi-voltage adapter, most tourist hotels have
Trains
Express Buses
guests. These days, restaurants, cafes, and most public
adapters available upon request.
To inquire about fares, hours and reservations call
You can reserve tickets online at KOBUS (kobus.co.kr).
areas offer free wi-fi access. If you are asked for an id
KORAIL at 1544-7788. Or you can also visit their
You cannot make reservations through the English
and password, ask the store for
Website korail.com (English site available).
site, but you may check availability.
Telephone
Public Phones Although somewhat hard to find, public
phones in Korea are easy to use and take either phone
Internet Cafes Being a fast IT country, internet cafe,
PCbang in Korean, are very easy to find. You can use a
Car Rental
computer for 1,000 to 1,500 won per hour.
Rental cars in Korea are very easy to find. Rental cars
are especially convenient if you are a free-spirited
cards or coins. Coined phones charge 70 won for the first
180 seconds on local calls, and 43 seconds on domestic
Pharmacies
long distance calls. Phone cards may be purchased at
If you are staying at a hotel, go to the front desk for
convenience stores, post offices of banks, and you may
emergency over-the-counter medication. Otherwise,
call international long distance as well.
look for the nearest pharmacy.
traveler and prefer visiting random sites that come
along the way. ※Call the 1330 Travel Information Call
Center for the nearest rental car agency
Useful Phone Numbers
Travel Information Call Center 1330
International Call Information Center 00794
Emergency Medical Service for Foreigners 1339
Police 112
Fire & Ambulance 119
Operator Assisted International Call 00799
International Telegram Service 00795
Tourist Complaint Center 02-735-0101
Interpretation Service BBB 1588-5644
(Before Babel Brigade) I Love Korea!
www.visitkoreayear.com
www.mustseeroutes.or.kr
Publisher
Shin Dong-bin (Visit Korea Committee, Chairman)
Planning
Visit Korea Committee, Korea JoongAng Daily Newspaper
Writers
Kathleen Stephens and others
Compiler
Son Min-ho (Korea JoongAng Daily Newspaper)
Planning & Design
Design Soomokwon Inc.
Address
34 Jong-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Telephone 02-6272-7317
Fax 02-6272-7200
※Content of this book is valid as of October, 2012, and changes may have occurred thereafter.
※All text content on these pages are copyrighted by the Visit Korea Committee,
and images by the Korea Tourism Organization and individuals who provided images. All rights reserved.
No part of these pages, either text or image may be used for any purpose without prior written permission.
Not for sale.