Bowl Show And ZooMed “New Products” Next Meeting: October 12th

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OCTOBER, 2015
Volume 26 No. 09
Next Meeting:
October 12th
The Shoreline ~ June 2015
The Official Publication of the Jersey Shore Aquarium Society
www.jerseyshoreas.org
Bowl Show
And
ZooMed “New Products”
Page 1
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
JSAS INFO
Page 3
This Month’s Speaker
Page 4
President's Message
Page 5
JSAS FALL AUCTION
Page 6
BAP Report
Page 7
Breeding Badis badis in an
Aquascaped Tank
Page 8
Breeding Bettas Basics
Page 11
DR. PAUL’S Fish of the Month
Page 14
NJAS Fall Event
Page 18
Video Corner
Page 19
INFRARED THERMOMETER
Page 20
Jeanne Villepreux-Power
Page 21
JSAS Trading Post
Page 22
The Fish From Outer Space
Page 23
The Piscatorial Philosopher:
Water Quality
Page 27
The Midwest Catfish Convention
Page 31
All-Aquarium Catfish Convention 2016
Page 33
Advertisements
Page 34
JSAS Meeting Schedule
Page 35
JSAS Membership Rewards
Page 36
JSAS Sister Clubs Info
Page 37
INFRARED THERMOMETER coupon
Page 38
This month you’re getting
two for the price of one! First we
have the fabulous JSAS annual
Bowl Show. Second we have Ben
from ZooMed returning to give us
an update on the latest and
greatest aquatic innovations being developed by the team at
ZooMed. Of course our monthly
auction will definitely have some
ZooMed items.
Last but not least when you
read the article about the Infrared Thermometer and decide
you want one I’ve attached a
coupon on the last page you can
print off and use to buy it for 62%
off list price!
See you at the meeting….
Russ
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JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY
2015 OFFICERS & LEADERSHIP
PRESIDENT
WEBSITE
MEMBERS AT LARGE
Chris Metta cgdchris@gmail.com
Jeff Compell
Dean M.
VICE PRESIDENT
jcomp13@yahoo.com
Shelly K.
Bill Loesch allaboutpetsllc@yahoo.com
MAP PROGRAM
Matt S.
TREASURER
Dean Majorino
Russ W.
Norman Gruenfeld nogru@optonline.net
deanmajorino@crimsonword.com
Nancy V.
RECORDING SECRETARY
MEMBERSHIP
Jeff C.
Rich C.
Nancy Villars/Hallgring
SNACKS & BEVERAGES
PAST PRESIDENTS
sccichlids@aol.com
Bill G. & Rich C.
Shelly Kirschenbaum
BAP PROGRAM
BUDGET CHAIR
Matt Siegel
Michael Palmese
Position is Open
Al Giancola
mpalmese@rcggs.com
SPEAKERS/PROGRAMS
AUCTION
COORDINATOR
Paul Sherman
Russ White
The Jersey Shore Aquarium Society meets at 8:00 p.m.
on the second Monday every month (except August) at
The American Legion Hall 62 West Main Street in
Freehold, New Jersey.
Each meeting typically features an interesting slide or
video presentation of related tropical fish topics. Our
presenters are often professionals or experienced
NEC LIASON
Nancy Villars/Hallgring
sccichlids@aol.com
EXCHANGE EDITOR
Position is Open
THE SHORELINE EDITOR
Russ White
rwhite8@optonline.net
hobbyists in their respective fields.
ANNUAL DUES:
Single Membership—$20.00
Family Membership—$30.00; couples ages 17 years old and above who attend regular meetings
together.
Junior Membership—$10.00; 16 years old or younger attending meetings on their own.
Such membership requires written approval by a parent/guardian.
Guests—$5.00; applicable towards membership at that meeting.
PAYMENT OF DUES:
Membership dues are due in full at the time of joining regardless of the time of year. Dues will be prorated for the second year of membership.
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JSAS Meeting
Monday, September 12th
.
Annual JSAS Bowl Show
and
ZOO MED “New Products”
American Legion Hall
62 W. Main Street, Freehold NJ
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President’s Message ~ September 2015
With summer at an end and the fall right at our feet, I am pleased to announce that this month we have a couple of nice things going on! First off,
thank you for those who attended the collecting trip in September. We may not
have gotten the size of fish we were looking for but we did get a ton of fry from
this season’s spawn of black banded sunfish, chubs, blue spotted sunfish and
many more. Although the fish were small, there definitely wasn’t a shortage of
them.
This month’s speakers will be a combination of our very own Bill Loesch
and Ben from Zoo Med speaking on new products in the aquarium hobby. Ben
has been so generous to us over the years and this year Zoo Med has some
awesome products to offer. On top of this, we will also have our annual bowl
show. Anyone may enter this bowl show by bringing in any type of fish they desire. Please remember that if you bring in a fish to show, you also need to bring
an appropriately sized tank. The meeting this month will be at the same location as always. American Legion Hall 62 West Main Street in Freehold NJ.
Since we have the bowl show this month as well, please get to the meeting
early as we are going to start this meeting by 7:45.
Also, our annual fall auction is right around the corner. The date is set to
be November 1st and the auction will be located at the South Wall Fire Department 2605 Atlantic Ave, Manasquan, NJ 08736. If you are bringing fish to the
auction please pre-register on our auction webpage. It makes the auction go
smoother, you get your money faster, and you get a better
split!
See you all at the meeting!
Chris
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Page 6
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breeders award program
JSAS Breeder’s Award Report – September 2015
1
3255
23
2
Larry Jinks
Michael Palmese
Michelle Palmese
Jesse Reddin
Jennifer Palmese
Gary Wong
85
1420
24
3
Dean Majorino
1290
24
Chris & Matt Metta
60
4
Richard Janssen
825
26
Kimberly Palmese
55
5
Frank Nell
785
27
45
370
28
7
Dave Leshinsky
Bill Loesch
Bob & Lauren Hicks
Tony Gallirio
Barbara & Dan DeCross
Gary Biondi
6
8
9
John Wares
Rory Lay
325
310
29
30
10
Anthony Metta
290
30
Herb Frietsch
Klaus Huenecke
Adam Gwizdz
Jeff Compell
Gary & Cindy Silver
11
Robert Janssen
270
12
Bill Arndt
265
13
225
14
Leonard Reback
Jim Sorge
200
31
20
15
Lothar Koenigstein
200
32
16
Luis Morales
165
17
Nancy Villars
165
Frank Policastro
Bill Barbito
Rich Corkery
Dave Maxwell
James Golazeski
Frank Brown
Louis Mauro
18
Tony Angso
160
19
Shelly Kirschenbaum
135
5
20
Jim Costello
130
David Cohen
Bill Guest
Stephen Morgan
345
33
100
Dave Salkin
22 Charles Smith
90
Spawns for the Month of September 2015
70
40
25
10
21
Melanoides tubercularia, Trumpet Snail, – Bill Loesch
Parachromis managuensis– Larry Jinks
Laetacara araguaiae– Larry Jinks
Krobia sp. xingu orange spots– Larry Jinks
Krobia Guianensis– Larry Jinks
Laetacara Araguaiae– Larry Jinks
Limia Melanotata– Larry Jinks
Thorichthys callolepis – Larry Jinks
Aequidens Patricki – Larry Jinks
Oryzias Mekongensis- Larry Jinks
Auloncara Hueseri – Larry Jinks
Rivulus Sp. Kona Yala- Larry Jinks
Aphyosemion Poiaki- Larry Jinks
Aphyosemion Exiguum- Larry Jinks
Pseudosphromenus cupanu-Larry Jinks
Chapalichthys encaustus – Larry Jinks
Guianacara sp. Rio Caroni – Larry Jinks
Michael Palmese, BAP Chairman
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Breeding Badis badis in an Aquascaped Tank
by Gary Haas
With some fish, you have to take an active role to assure a successful spawning. Some need specific conditions to induce a spawn, others require intervention for the protection of one of the parents or of the spawn itself, yet others need special care for the eggs or fry to enable them to grow
up. Then there are the fish that, when given conditions to their liking, reward the aquarist with a
stream of young fish that just ... appear. Those are the fish I like best, because they validate that I
have provided them with a good place to live, good enough to be entrusted with the fish's own
progeny.
Such a fish is Badis badis. Native to the Ganges and
Brahmaputra drainages of India, Nepal, and Bangladesh, Badis badis (hereafter, simply badis) is a small
fish, attaining a length of 2.5”. My males are slim and
usually a brown-with-red-and- blue-tones checkerboard pattern and blue betta-like fins, but when they
want to show off (not for my camera, unfortunately)
they become blue to indigo over the entire body and
fins. Their mates are shorter and chunky, and the
checkerboard pattern is more pronounced in shades
of beige. Their native waters are slow-flowing and turbid, often sunny and populated with aquatic plants.
Badis in the wild is apparently no stranger to rice
paddies. These fish are shy, and in a tank which provides much cover, one often has to look carefully to
find them. Males have a laid-back demeanor, sometimes assuming odd stationary poses, such as nose
down, or lying on the side, for a minute or more. Even
at feeding time the males seldom lose their cool, often sauntering lazily to the feeding area minutes after
the food has been dispensed. The females are less
Male Badis badis
reclusive. They appear promptly once food hits the
water, and sometimes hang out in the open, hoping to catch the attention of a male, apparently.
They don't appear to have a problem in getting enough food with their current tank mates (Danio
margaritatus, which seem to be intimidated by the larger badis; cherry shrimp; and Ancistrus sp.),
but I would not house them with boisterous species. I purchased my fish, six fry about 1/2” long, at
a killifish club auction,. I fed them quality store-bought food augmented by frozen brine shrimp and
micro-worms, and in 6 months or so they were adult size, three each male and female. They all live
in a 20 long aquarium, aquascaped (not to show-quality) with white quartz rocks arranged to
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provide cave-like hiding places, a clay pot, and a single piece of driftwood. It is moderately planted
with various cryptocorynes, pennywort, java fern, java moss, and bladderwort on a substrate consisting of aquarium gravel and Flourite over topsoil, and lit at a low level by a single 14 watt fluorescent bulb. A carpet of (dead) sphagnum moss covers much of the substrate, with oak leaves that
come and go as they decompose and I remember to replace them. There is an abundance of cover
in the tank, and the Badis take advantage of it.
Badis tank, with badis in hiding. No D. margaritatus at the time of this photo, only shrimp
I generally see only the D. margaritatus and female Badis except at meal time; males make occasional patrols, then retreat to various hiding places in shadowy locales. In my tank they don't show
aggressive tendencies during breeding, described in some other reports. They coexist peacefully
with their tankmates. Reports from the internet indicate that the species is not picky about water
chemistry or temperature.
My water chemistry is what my well provides, that is,
pH around 7.6 and hardness around 12 dH, and the
temperature is in the high 70's. About 30% of the water gets changed every couple weeks. I had high
hopes for the Badis to breed. They were fed high
quality dry food on a daily basis, augmented by
grindal worms and an occasional treat of frozen
bloodworms or chopped red wigglers. Grindal worms
were definitely the favorite. Months went by and
there was no evidence of breeding behavior. Badis
are cave spawners and so I had little hope of witnessing the event, but the fish seemed to ignore
each other, at best. The males did chase the females
away! Not what I hoped. I removed non-Badis tank
Badis females, at feeding time, with D. margarimates (except shrimp) and continued to feed and
tatus. Male badis are chronically late to dinner.
wait. Then one day I saw what might have been a
Babies never pose.
small (1/4”) fish waaay in the back of the tank, just
for a second. Nah, it was probably just a shrimp. A week or so later I thought I saw it again. Probably just wishful thinking along with old tired eyes. Days later, at feeding time, I saw two! They were
definitely little Badis! Success at last!
Now, how to get Breeder's Award points for them. I needed 6 fry to claim the points, and I had to
get them out of the tank and to a ACLC meeting. (Or get a photo, which is even harder for six small
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non-schooling fish in a planted tank.) At this point I wasn't sure I had six babies. I waited another
month. By this time I had seen four babies at the same time. Certainly there were more in there. I
wanted those BAP points!
So I tore down the tank. The floating plants came out, the driftwood came out, some of the rocks
came out, the sphagnum moss and the oak leaves came out, most of the water came out, the
adults came out, some of the shrimp came out. Four babies came out. Four. Not six. Not enough for
BAP points. Everything went back in. Except for the babies. They went to auction, as a donation.
(Which gets you extra points, IF you can claim points, and IF you have six. Which I didn't.)
I like the fish. And I like the tank. So I kept it, and I kept feeding the Badis good food and taking care
of them the way fish ought to be taken care of. Months later I thought I saw a baby waaaay in the
back of the tank. And days later I saw two, and then four, and there were two different sizes, the
larger almost 1/2” in length. Then I saw a few more. That's more than six!
So I got out my net. These babies, unlike the previous ones, weren't very smart about nets. I caught
four without having to tear down the tank. They went to auction, and (combined with the first batch) I
got my BAP points. It was disappointing to not see the spawning activity and subsequent interaction
with eggs and fry, as described in other reports. (The male reportedly guards the eggs, and then,
briefly, the fry, before losing interest.) It was definitely a pain harvesting the fry from a tank full of net
-snagging hiding places. But it was neat, almost dreamlike, seeing the 1/4” babies emerge from the
vegetation, appearing as if by magic, then disappear so quickly that I was unsure if I had seen them
at all.
I still have my aquascaped tank, and my Badis badis, and the Danio margaritatus are back in there.
Since the re-introduction of the margaritatus, the badis are less reclusive, and more active at dinner
time, so it's a more interesting place to observe. Hopefully the Badis will continue to think it's a pretty darn good place to live, and for babies to grow up.
Bibliography
http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/badis-badis/
http://www.tfhmagazine.com/details/articles/breeding-the-blue-dwarf-badis-badis-full-article.htm
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Breeding Bettas Basics
Reprinted from the January 2011 Pisces Press of the Nassau County Aquarium Society
(Author not credited)
If you want to house a Betta couple together the aquariums doesn’t have to be big and Bettas are
known to successfully spawn in aquariums no larger than 5-10 gallons. The aquarium must contain
a lot of good hiding spots because the female needs to hide from the male to relieve stress and
avoid injury. Live plants will help you keep the water quality up, but artificial plants will be just as
good as hiding spots.
The Breeding Couple
Chose a male and female fish of roughly the same size, but do not house them together yet. (They
should be of roughly the same size to avoid one of them ending up badly injured.) The pair should
be given a lot of nutritious food; you can for instance provide them with a combination of highquality flake food and live brine shrimp. The water quality must also be kept up and the water chemistry should resemble that of their native environment. When both fishes are healthy and well-fed, it
is time to introduce them to each other. Start by placing their aquariums close to each other and allow them to watch each other for a couple of days. Proceed by making it impossible for the male to
see the female for a while, before moving him to the breeding aquarium. When the male has spent
an hour or so getting used to his new home you can put the female in a hurricane globe and gently
place it in the breeding aquarium. This will prevent the male from getting at her right away. Carefully
monitor your fish and see if they show any interest in each other. Flaring is a good sign, and hope-
fully the male will soon start building a bubble nest.
Betta Breeding
Do not release the female from the hurricane globe until the male has built a fairly big bubble nest
and the female is showing vertical strips. She should also be assuming a head-standing position in
the globe and ideal have a protruding breeding tube (look behind the pelvic fin). When you release
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the female, it is perfectly natural for the couple to engage in some nipping and chasing. Keep an eye
on them and only intervene if one or both is getting badly injured. Really violent attacks means that
they couple is not ready to breed, or simply incompatible. Place the female back inside the hurricane
bowl and let her stay for a few days. Some couples need to be together for 4-5 days before they
start to breed while others can start within an hour. Some females will even start releasing eggs
while they are still inside the hurricane bowl. When the time is right, the male will try to attract the fe-
male to his nest and she will follow him. As they reach the nest, the male will embrace the female
and she will release her eggs. The eggs will sink to the bottom of the aquarium and the male will
swim down and pick them up. Directly after releasing her eggs, it is normal for the female to stay
completely still and motionless for few seconds while the male swims down. When the spawning is
finished, the female will leave the nest voluntarily or be chased away by the male. In most situations
she will have plenty of time to swim away and hide while he is down at the bottom searching for
eggs. The female should now be removed from the aquarium since she will either eat the eggs or be
violently attacked by the male as she tries to eat the eggs.
Both the male and female will normally have acquired torn fins during the courting process and they
are therefore quite susceptible to disease. Most breeders therefore safe-guard by treating the breeding aquarium with MarOxy or similar and placing the female in a separate recuperation aquarium instead of letting her join other fish in a community tank. Treating the recuperation aquarium is also a
good idea. Betta eggs and fry Betta eggs are white and can be easily spotted inside the bubble nest
if you use a magnifying glass. Using MarOxy or any similar treatment is not only good for the male; it
will also decrease the risk of fungus attacking the eggs. To prevent cool air from entering the breeding aquarium you must cover it with glass or plastic wrap. Without this type of protection the fry can
easily develop pneumonia when they swim up to the surface to test their labyrinth organ for the first
time. (This normally happens when they are 5-7 weeks of age.) Approximately 36 hours after the
spawning really tiny fry will start falling out of the bubble nest and landing on the bottom of the
aquarium. At this stage, the fry will look more like a black dot with a tiny tail than a miniature fish.
The male will swim down to the bottom, pick up the fry, and place them back inside the bubble nest.
As you can see, it is very important to let the male stay with the fry. Do not remove him until the fry is
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free swimming. In some cases, the male will however start eating the fry that he retrieves from the
bottom and if you notice this type of behavior the male should be removed from the aquarium. It is
possible for Betta fry to develop even if they have fallen down to the bottom of the aquarium, as long
as there are no other fish in the tank that can eat them. Newly hatched fry will feed off their yolk sac
and should not be given any addition food. When the yolk sacs are gone, you can start giving them
infusoria. After roughly two weeks the fry will be big enough to eat newly hatched brine shrimp and
microworms.
Feeding your fry a
lot of small
servings through-
out the day is
better than giving
them a lot of
food 2-3 times a
day. It is very
important to keep
the water quali-
ty up in the breed-
ing aquarium.
The new water has
to be of the
same temperature
as the water in
the breeding
aquarium, be-
cause Betta fry do
not handle tem-
perature changes
well. It is hard
to perform water
changes without involuntarily sucking up the tiny Betta fry, but they will normally survive being siphoned out as long as they are returned to the aquarium immediately. Betta fry are extremely small
when they hatch and even when kept on a nutritious diet they are remarkably slow growers. In most
cases, you will not be able to notice any coloration until they are over 7 months old. The tiny fry will
spend most of their time at the bottom of the aquarium and move only when you feed them. As the
males mature, they will grow increasingly aggressive and should be moved to their own aquariums
or jars. The females are more docile and can be kept together in the same aquarium until they are
big enough to be sold or given away to other aquarists. If you have used a very small breeding
aquarium you may have to provide them with bigger housing to keep them healthy and happy.
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DR. PAUL’S Fish of the Month
Re-printed from the NJAS REPORTER October 2014
Hyphessobrycon sp. - Candy Cane Tetra
Although the subject of this month’s essay has been available to hobbyists since
1997 (Baensch and Fischer, 2001), there is still no consensus with regard to its identity.
It has been various times been identified as Hyphessobrycon bentosi, as a color
form of H. rosaceus or as an undescribed species of the so-called rosy tetra complex, and
has been marketed under the names Hyphessobrycon sp. white-fin, Hyphessobrycon HY
511 or Hyphessobrycon sp. candy cane. The task of identifying this extremely at-tractive
tetra is complicated by ongoing uncertainty with regard to its provenance. Ac-cording to
NJAS member Tony Orso, the candy cane tetra was first offered to him by his Czech suppliers, who when contacted, were unable to provide a South American point of origin for
the fish.
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The rosy tetra complex comprises three species: Hyphessobrycon rosaceus Dur-bin
1908, native the Guianas, Hyphessobrycon bentosi Durbin 1908, which replaces it in the
lower Amazon and Hyphessobrycon epicharis Weitzman and Palmer 1997, found in the upper reaches Brazil’s Rio Negro and Venezuela’s Rio Orinoco. The large black shoulder spot
of H. epicharis effectively precludes any possibility of con-specificity with the candy cane tetra. Of the two remaining species in the group, it most closely resembles H. bentosi. That it
made its debut as an aquarium fish at about the same time that Belem, situated at the
mouth of the Amazon, began to re-gain its importance as a focus of fish exportation is also
suggestive. However, the dis-tal portion of the dorsal fin is black in H. bentosi but white in
the candy cane tetra. The hypothesis that the candy cane tetra is a selectively bred variant
of H. bentosi is plausible, but pending genetic analysis the possibility that it represents an un
-described species cannot be dismissed out of hand.
Regardless of its taxonomic status, the candy cane tetra is a highly desirable aquarium resident. Males can grow to 2" [5.0 cm] SL, females are just a bit smaller. While a moderately social, it cannot be described as a schooling species. While can-dy cane tetras
should be kept in a group, it is important to realize that males of this species, like those of
other sexually dimorphic, deep-bodied tetras, tend to defend dis-play territories. The resulting inter-male aggression is usually of little consequence if the fish are housed in tank large
enough to afford each male a territory. However, if the fish are crowded, losers in the competition for territories will be bullied by the win-ner or winners, often with serious consequences. A single male and a group of two to four females can be comfortably housed in a
15 gallon [60 l] aquarium, but prudence suggests a tank at least twice the volume for a multimale group. Territorial conflicts can also be minimized if the fish are housed in a tank whose
furnishings break up its sight lines. A properly aquascaped aquarium will accomplish this
quite effectively while simultaneously showing the fish to best advantage.
Housing candy cane tetras with other deep-bodied Hyphessobrycon species is not a
good idea, as it is likely to result in interspecific squabbling over male display territo-ries. Nor
does this species do well in the company of such extremely active tank-mates as Congo tetras or the various Danio or Devario species. Small schooling tet-ras, e.g., cardinal tetras
(Paracheirodon axelrodi), lemon tetras (Hyphessobrycon pul-chripinnis) or glow-light tetras
(Hemigrammus gracilis) make acceptable tankmates, as do pencilfish, the smaller rasbora
species and Corydoras catfish. Candy cane tetras can also be used as dither fish for dwarf
cichlids as long as the tank is large enough to allow them to move beyond the boundaries of
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of the cichlids’ breeding territory.
The ancestors of candy cane tetras inhabited biotopes characterized by soft, acid
water. Hardness readings of 1° DH - 3° DH and pH values of 5.0 - 6.0 are the norm in the
rivers of the Guianas as well as in the lower reaches of the Amazon. Candy cane tetras will
live happily in harder water with a pH of 7.0 - 7.5, but will not breed suc-cessfully under
such conditions. This species does not appreciate chilling. A temper-ature range of 72° 76° F. [22° - 24° C.] is appropriate for day to day maintenance, with an increase to of 78° -
82° F. [26° - 28° C.] for breeding. This species will readily eat flake foods, but for it to thrive
its diet should comprise a substantial percentage of frozen and live foods. Frozen bloodworms and glassworms are particularly relished, as are fruit flies, live Daphnia and black
worms. The regular addition of frozen CyclopEze© to the menu will significantly enhance
the red elements of the candy cane tetra’s coloration.
Tetras of the H. rosaceus complex are characterized by marked sexual dimorphism
and the candy cane tetra is no exception to this rule. Males have much longer dorsal and
anal fins than females, while the dorsal fins of the latter are distinctively colored.
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Tetras of the H. rosaceus complex are characterized by marked sexual dimorphism
and the candy cane tetra is no exception to this rule. Males have much longer dorsal and
anal fins than females, while the dorsal fins of the latter are distinctively colored
This species is an egg-scatterer. Well fed fish will spawn more or less continuously
even in a community setting. The usual approach to breeding egg scatterers entails conditioning the male and female separately and re-uniting them in an appropriately furnished
breeding tank. This is best done late in the day, as candy cane tetras spawn early in the
morning. Like most characins, candy cane tetras are egg eaters, so it is essential to remove them from the breeding tank as soon as possible after spawning or else set it up in a
manner that blocks the breeders’ access to their spawn. For use-ful suggestions on how to
set up a spawning tank for egg scatterers like the candy cane tetra as well as information
on rearing their fry, see Carey (2009).
The candy cane tetra is regularly listed by several Florida fish farms and is also bred
in the Far East. It is thus readily available through commercial channels. This species is
quite frequently stocked by retailers and is reasonably priced. Hobbyists eager to acquire
candy cane tetra should have no difficulty in finding a source for this beautiful Hyphessobrycon species.
Literature Cited
Baensch, H. A. and G. W. Fischer.. 2001. Aquarium Atlas Photo Index 1 -5. Mergus Press,
Melle.
Carey, R. 2009. Tetras and Barbs. T. F. H. Publications, Neptune City, pp. 1 - 127.
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1- My Waterfall Aquarium
2- HOW TO: Build an aquarium background
3- HOW TO: Build an underwater waterfall sandfall
ALL ABOUT PETS
Located at Route 35 & Sea Girt Avenue ~ 732.223.4530
JSAS Members are always
treated to 20% off their fish
& aquarium purchases!
Be sure to stop in
and ask for Bill and
His friends!
FISH—BIRDS—RABBITS—REPTILES &
A BIG SELECTION OF FOOD & SUPPLIES
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INFRARED THERMOMETER
by Kathy Muraca
Reprinted from the NJAS December 2014 Reporter
I’d like to make a suggestion for making life a bit easier in the fish room. I recently purchased
this infrared thermometer and it was pretty inexpensive. I got it at Harbor Freight Tools with
a coupon and it cost about $25. I have seen them in the past for about twice that price. I
have checked this particular model against my $100 Therma-Pen, which I got for cooking and
they are known to be very accurate. The Cen-Tech device from Harbor Freight is accurate to
about .5 to 1 degree in temperature, compared to the Therma-Pen which is completely acceptable. I have a rack with about 20 tanks and I can do all of them in less than a minute. You
don’t have to release the trigger between tanks. The device registers in about 3-5 seconds
and you can switch between Fahrenheit and Celsius. It defaults to Celsius which is a little annoying but the button on the back switches immediately to Fahrenheit.
In researching alternate devices online, I did see one on e-Bay that was $10.98, including shipping! I am leery of e-Bay purchases because if there is a problem, returns are sometimes iffy
at best. I am an Amazon Prime user and you can get one for about $17 which includes shipping. Amazon is fantastic about returns so I would suggest going with them.
Editors Note: I’ve been using one of
these ever since I read this article in
the Reporter and it works great!
See
coupon on
the last
page!
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Jeanne Villepreux-Power
24 September 1794 – 25 January 1871
Pioneering French marine biologist
Jeanne Villepreux-Power, who famously invented the aquarium, was born September
24th, 1794. The daughter of a shoemaker,
Villepreux-Power began
her adulthood as a dressmaker’s assistant and,
through self-taught study
and research, became a
renowned naturalist
known as the "Mother of
Aquariophily."
While working as a
dressmaker in Paris, Villepreux-Power first
gained prominence after
she made the wedding
gown for Princess Caroline. This also led her to
meeting English merchant James Power, who
she married in 1818 in
Sicily. They lived on the
island for over twenty
years and it was there
that Villepreux-Power undertook a rigorous
study of its flora and fauna with a particular
interest in the marine ecology.
In 1832, she began to study the paper
nautilus or Argonauta argo. The prominent
opinion at the time was that the nautilus took
its shell from another organism. In order to
test whether this was true, Villepreux-Power
invented the first glass aquarium, which allowed her to study nautilus in a controlled
environment. As a result, she discovered
that the nautilus created its own shell. As
she continued her research, VillepreuxPower also designed two aquarium variants,
a glass apparatus within a cage, used for
shallow-water studies,
and another cage-like
aquarium which scientists could raise and
lower to different
depths as needed.
In 1839, Villepreux-Power published “Physical Observations and Experiments on Several Marine and Terrestrial Animals”, her major work
discussing the nautilus
and other sea creatures she had studied.
Increasingly renowned
for her pioneering research, VillepreuxPower became the
first female member
of the Catania Accademia, as well as a
member of over a dozen other scientific
academies.
In recent years, this trailblazing scientist and inventor was further In recent
years, this trailblazing scientist and inventor was further recognized -- a major
crater on Venus discovered by the Magellan probe was named in her honor in
1997.
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for sale
Albino Cory’s $2 ~ Albino or Brown Ancistrus $3
120 gal. Oceanic Reef tank 4’ x 2’ ~ 50 gal. sump and pump
~ Aero Foamer Skimmer ~ 1/2 hp. Chiller ~ Oak Stand and
Hood (needs tlc) ~ Metal Halide Lights ~ HO lights $500
Contact Russ at rwhite8@optonline.net
Plastic fish bags as follows;
2x8 (100pcs)
= 1.50
3x14 (100pcs)
= 3.00
4x18 (100pcs)
= 6.00
6x20 (100pcs)
= 8.00
8x20 (100pcs)
= 11.00
10x22 (100pcs)
= 13.00
16x14x36 (8 pcs) =2.00
Also for trade –potted Lotus plants (pink & white) pond plant , can
get large.
Contact Dean at: deanmajorino@crimsonsword.com
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The Fish From Outer Space
by SUSAN
PRIEST
Photos by the author
Reprinted from the June 2013 Modern Aquarium
Part One: The Master Plan
hesitate. BUT, I told myself, after it wins a ribbon in
the bowl show I can put it right into the auction, and
The first time I saw a knifefish was at a Greater City
someone more experienced and knowledgeable than
Fish Show. It was shortly after Al and I had joined the
me will give it a loving home.
club, in the early 1990s. Carlotti DeJager had entered
a black ghost knifefish. After this fish caught my eye, I
My plan was in place. Then something unexhad a hard time moving past it to view the killies,
pected happened. The young lady who helped me
mbuna, or bristle-nosed plecos. I was mesmerized!
with my purchase (she turned out to be a mind reader), told me that knifefishes were not the least bit
Let me fast-forward your attention to the year
fussy as to their care, and that one fish to a tank
2010. That was the year, after eighteen years as
would be best. I couldn’t help but
members of the GCAS, that
notice that there were at least
Al and I decided to make a
half a dozen knifefish in the tank
concerted effort to win the
in front of me, which made me
bowl show competition. The
question the validity of her adrules allow for entering two
vice, but the next GCAS meeting
fish every month, which we
was only a few days away,
did. As we approached the
fall of the year, and had also I didn’t let myself give in to
ready entered most of our
fretting.
fish which we considered to
Throughout those few
be worthy of a ribbon, I dedays I noticed that I was spendcided to go shopping.
ing more and more time watchHarsha Perera’s
ing this fish, which I had “temporarily” housed in a five
ZOO-RAMA AQUARIUM SHOP (Bronx location) is
gallon tank near my dining room table. I once again
not far from my home, and that seemed like a good
found myself to be mesmerized, and I convinced myplace to start.
self that Leonard would be, as well.
I was looking for something that would capRather than keep you in suspense, I will jump
ture the attention of the bowl show judge (aka Leonahead to the day of the meeting. This was when I
ard Ramroop). I figured that he must be bored with
the steady stream of bettas and guppies which parad- discovered that my assumptions were wrong, that
ed past him each month. I was looking for something
Leonard was not the least bit bored, and that his
distinctive a n d u n u s u a l , something you don’t
see every day. There were many large, beautiful dis- attention had once again been captured by the usual
cus, lots of lovely, diminutive livebearers, even exotic display of small, colorful fishes. My mesmerizing
shrimps and crabs. AHA! What’s this? I’ll give you a
knifefish didn’t win, place, or show! Here is where my
hint. Suddenly I once again found myself to be mes- master plan completely fell apart. Instead of transfermerized.
ring the knifefish from the bowl show table to the
The little that I could remember having read
raffle table, I put it back into my tote bag. At this point
about the care of knifefishes seemed to be telling me I had to admit two things to myself: 1) I didn’t want to
that they were a bit fussy, so my first reaction was to stop looking at this fish, and 2) it was time for me to
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do my homework.
Part Two: Homework
A clear and reliable identification of this fish
was my first order of business. I turned to no less
of an authority than Baensch’s Aquarium Atlas,
Volume I. The index directed me to the section on
“various true bony fishes.” I thought that I had
surely found my fish while I was viewing the
photo of the Asiatic knifefish (Notopterus
notopterus). But, then I got a look at the photo of
the African knifefish (Xenomystus nigri), below it
on the same page. That sent me scurrying to get a
good look at my own fish. Close scrutiny of both
of the photos, as well as of my
fish, left no doubt in my mind that
the fish in my tank was indeed an
African knifefish.
The distinguishing feature
is the absence of a dorsal fin. It
was clear to see in the photos that
Asiatic knifefish had a short, narrow, upright dorsal fin, and that the
African knifefish had a completely
smooth back, just like my fish did.
A much less distinctive, but equally defining feature, are the very
small barbels near its mouth,
which are observable in the photo as well as on my
fish,
and which are absent in the photo of the Asiatic
tankmates from other species, but will be less tolerant of their own. They are best kept alone, but if you
want to try keeping more than one of these fish in the
same aquarium, they should all be introduced at the
same time. They are nocturnal, and should be provided with a darkened environment.
In the wild they are known to be egglayers.
Sexual dimorphism has not been observed, and
breeding in an aquarium has not been described.
They can be expected to grow to one foot in length.
They emit a mild electric field around their
body. The fish uses this electric field for navigation,
and to “see” what is nearby. Tubeshaped hiding places make them feel secure. A perimeter of plants contributes to their comfort, but they also need plenty of
open areas for swimming. The rippling motions of
their long anal fin propel them both
forwards and backwards. (This
feature is what makes them so
mesmerizing.)
This fish is a predatory carnivore, and live foods are the optimum choice. A pH of 6.0-7.0
(slightly acidic), and a temperature
range of from 72-82EF are to this
fish’s best advantage. “The fish
will emit bell-like sounds produced
by ejecting air from the swim bladder.”
Part Three: Outer Space
We have given the knifefish a ten gallon aquarium of
its own in our bedroom. We keep the tank light on at
night, and off during the day.
fish. The photos of both fish clearly show the
This nocturnal fish is active at all hours, and doesn’t
seem to have any objections to this reverse schedcharacteristic wave-like anal fin along the entire
ule. At night, when sleep is as elusive to you as your
length of their body. [There are numerous
dream from the night before, it provides an hypnotic
genera/species having the common name of
presence. The only plants in the tank consist of a
“kni fef ish.” Two examples out of many are the afore- thick layer of salvinia floating across the surface. A
mentioned Asiatic knifefish, Notopterus notopterus,
combination of the salvinia, as well as keeping the
drapes closed, provide the recommended “darkened
and the beguiling black ghost, Apteronotus albifrons.]
environment.” The temperature in the tank stays withNow that we all know what fish we’re talking
in the previously prescribed range without the use of
about, let’s find out more about it.
a heater. I have never of salvinia floating
The African knifefish is native to Zaire, Gaacross the surface. A combination of the salvinia, as
bon, Niger, and Liberia. In nature young fishes have
well as keeping the drapes closed, provide the recbeen seen schooling, but the adults adopt a mostly
ommended darkened environment.” The temperasolitary life. In an aquarium they will readily accept
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The temperature in the tank stays within the
I have seldom seen a more contented fish. It
previously prescribed range without the use of
shows no signs of being lonely or bored, and is not
a heater. I have never tested the pH, but our
spooked by the approach of humanoids. One of
tap water is consistently soft and neutral. There
the reasons it is not spooked by us is that it can’t
is a box filter in place. The fish gets fed an alternating see us. This is due to the fact that its electric field
doesn’t extend far enough to detect our presence.
diet of fortified live adult brine shrimp and small pelleted food. At feeding time, when I push apart a
(It does have eyes, of course, but is apparently
space in the salvinia with my fingertip, I get nibbled!
quite nearsighted.) Those clear plastic tubes on a
The full frontal photo of this fish (above) reveals a
stand that you see for sale in the fish department of
very other-worldly look, rather like something from a
galaxy far, far away. (Try Googling “Admiral Ackbar,” pet stores are designed with these fish in mind.
an amphibious species of dubious gender from the
planet Mon Calamari, of Star Wars fame, and make
your own comparison.) Actually, I have come to the
conclusion that this fish could qualify as proof of
(Pretty much any clear plastic bottle with both ends
cut off, and a little gravel inside to weigh it down
horizontally, will provide the same effect.) I have
given my fish some ceramic tube-shaped hideouts,
life on Mars! But the thing that startles me the most
about this photo is that after looking at this fish sever- which serve the same purpose, at least from
the fish’s point of view. There is also a ceramic
al times a day for almost three years, I didn’t even
know what it really looks like until I saw this close-up brick resting against the glass at an angle. The fish
of its face!
likes to hang out in the shadow of this tent-like
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“lean to.” I’m guessing that this also makes it
Ginsu, and Mesmerelda were all front runners for
think itself to be invisible.
a while, but ultimately I never settled on one. I
The fish is around six inches in total length,
hope that this fish will be mesmerizing me for
give or take a half an inch, at the time of this
many years to come. I have never heard it produce
writing. I really can’t tell you reliably how long it
a sound of any kind.
was when we got it, but I would describe it as a
slow grower. If it ever actually approaches twelve
inches, it will definitely need a larger tank.
References
The still photos of this fish cannot illustrate
Aquarium Atlas, volume I. Riehl, Dr. Rudiger,
the mesmerizing effect that I have referred to so
and Baensch, Hans A., Mergus Press, 1991.
often. To experience this phenomenon you need to
Aquarium Atlas, photo index volumes 1-5.
see it up close and personal, in its live action mode.
Baensch, Hans A., and Fischer, Dr. Gero W.,
I have spent many an hour trying to choose
Mergus Press, 2002.
a name for this fish. Mack (as in “The Knife”),
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Lowell Winthrop with Todd Urciuoli BAS
Reprinted from the BAS Aquatica March - April 2014
The Piscatorial
Philosopher:
Water Quality
Beginner’s lament: “My fish died! Why?”
I
t’s human nature to get those new fish into the new tank as quickly as possible,
even before the water is “ready.” Maybe that’s why. Many in “The Hobby” for a
while have the same problem. Since our pets live in water, I’ll discuss the part water
plays in maintaining a successful aquarium where our pets only die of old age. A
philosopher is a seeker of truth, but first you have to know where I’m coming from.
A parable about 4 blind men leaning against an
and dying of old age.
elephant; imagine, one’s against the trunk, one
against the leg, one against the tail, and one
against the flank. Each, based on his vantage
point, describes the elephant quite differently.
Having the differing descriptions would make
you think each is describing a different animal.
So, too, with “Our Hobby.”
Everyone leans against it at a dif-
ferent point. I’m “leaning,” at the
point of least time spent, least
work, lowest cost and least hi-tech.
To begin...at the beginning. Nowhere in
nature will you find fish packed as densely as in
our aquaria. Whether your personal rule is 1/2
inches of fish per gallon or 6 inches per gallon
(with aeration of course), our aquaria are more
densely packed than any lake, river stream or
ocean.The waste produced by fish, plants and
Pis-ca-to-ri-al
adj- (pis-ke-tor!e-al)
Pertaining to fish or fishing.
I want maximum time to watch and From the Latin piscātōrius,
enjoy my fish growing, mating,
maturing, collecting Social Security
from piscātor: fisherman.
food cannot be avoided and must
be dealt with. Although the same
wastes are produce in these very
same lakes, rivers, streams and
oceans, their vast sizes takes
care of the problem, naturally.
Dealing with these wastes
the confines of our aquaria points
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up the adage about differences in QUANTITY make
for differences in QUALITY. Our tanks are not small
lakes, rivers, streams or oceans. The primary difference between the organic/nutrient composition in natural waters and our aquarium water is concentration
and not kind.
All the toxins produced in our tanks cannot
be seen, smelled or tasted. Well, maybe smelled,
but by then it’s toooo late! We can, however, test
for their presence.
More about this later.
My water rating system is PERFECT,
VERY GOOD, GOOD, PASSABLE and DEADLY.
Depending on how much time, effort and money
we’re willing to spend. Let’s go for the top three.
which contain carbon (C) are the end products of metabolism and mineralization. Mineralization is the
breakdown of organic, substances derived from
plants and animals and contain carbon which change
into inorganics, which have NO carbon. Depending
on the pH, we could have more ammonia, (NH3) , or
more ammonium (NH4). I’ll treat them as one.
Ammonia is DEADLY! You can’t see it or smell it in
the crystal clear water of your tank. But it’s there...
lurking. It must be changed to something less toxic or
removed.
A biological filter will change it. A biological
filter brings together in a continuous process water
with the waste nitrogen, (N), oxygen, (O), and an ample substrate with colonies of nitrifying bacteria.
(Different from bacteria of decay, called heterotrophic).
There are many types of biological filters that
do this - undergravel, wet-dry and so on. Regardless
of the type, if it’s working properly, if you change what
must be changed, clean what must be cleaned, all on
CO2 is produced by fish and plant respiration. a regular maintenance schedule, the ammonia will be
Yes, plants “breathe out” just as we do. Many factors changed to nitrite (NO2) and then to nitrate (NO4), all
are involved in the amount of CO2 dissolved in water by the action of bacteria. All the necessary bacteria
and its complex interrelationship with pH, atmospher- are everywhere and newly set-up biological filter will
ic pressure, temperature, the buffer system, plants,
cycle through Nitrosomonas, Nitrosulphate,
animals and bacteria of decay. The only fact important to us is that CO2 dissolved in water will equili- Nitrosococcus, Nitrosolobus, Nitrocysitis and all the
others with which I’m not on a first name basis. No
brate with the atmosphere. The system is selfregulating with outside air. But it’s SLOW. You must action is necessary on your part except patience. It
takes 3 to 4 weeks for a new filter to become funct
keep the water constantly moving as virtually all the
ional after you introduce a few expendable fish to
exchange is at the water’s SURFACE. How you do it start the process. An undergravel filter can speed it
is where the heated discussions begin, advertising
up if you take 10% or more of the new filter bed from
an old established tank. The new filter may then be
claims kick in and confusion reigns.
ready in a few days.
No need; bubbles from an air pump or
NITRITE:
circulation by a power filter of any kind, 24 hours
Toxic! It may take a while for the bacteria to
a day, will adequately do the job. No need to inject
convert nitrite to nitrate. When your nitrite level drops,
the new filter is ready and safe to introduce our pets.
oxygen, CO2, ozone or anything else. Remember
How do you know? TEST!
where I’m leaning against the elephant! Adding CO2,
for example, to aid plant growth, will change the pH, NITRATE:
and any additive itself must be carefully monitored as
Also toxic, but much less so. Most experts
it, too, may be toxic. CIRCULATION alone will keep
think over 150mg (150 milligrams per liter of water)
us in the top three.
Our fish, plants and food produce carbon dioxide,
(CO2) and ammonia, (NH3). Both are toxic. “Toxic”
means DEADLY!
AMMONIA:
is dangerous. Nitrate is NOT subject to further
oxidation. You have three choices to maintain our
Organic materials derived from fish, plants
and food are constantly being added to the water and
goal of staying in the top three water categories:
tend to make it acid and deadly. These organics,
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water change, chemical filtration or a denitrification
HARDNESS:
filter. While technologically possible to reverse the
A general turm used to describe the total
whole process I just described, installing and
amount of minerals such as calcium carbonate,
maintaining a denitrification filter is analogous
CaCO3, dissolved in water. Water rich in
to starting a NEW hobby. The complexities
dissolved minerals is called “hard”, with little,
and hazards make it high risk and low gain. To
“soft.” Hardness is measured in “degrees of hardness,”
get some idea, check FAMA, April ‘92, pg. 170.
For yet another perspective, remember plants
“eat” both nitrate and CO2. See our own Saul
Rosenburg’s article in Aquatica, December ‘91,
page, 11. I feel most of us are not used to low
density of fish population necessary to make a
“natural” tank work. But work it will! I say, “Just
change the damn water! Give our pets a breath of
fresh...”
CHEMICAL FILTRATION:
Unless used to remove nitrate, it performs
the same function as a biological filter. Redundancy
is good, but more costly and time consuming. As
I’m testing on a regular basis, my well-maintained
biological filter is more than adequate. A
test reading too far removed from my baseline
will alert me that something is wrong. And I’ll do
something about it, PRONTO!
MECHANICAL FILTRATION:
Taking out particles not dissolved in the
water will lighten the load on my biological filter
and lengthen the time between water changes. A
good thing: adapt the intake stem to pick up near
the bottom of the tank where most of the heavier
particles settle. A little jerry rigging will do this
and help delay water changes by removing more
of the decaying material. There are many types of
mechanical filters. Whatever kind you choose
must be cleaned on a regular basis. I won’t tell
you all the nasty things that can happen if you
don’t, but you may fall out of the top three.
one degree being equal to 10 mg. of calcium or
magnesium oxide per liter of water.
pH:
Measures the acidity or alkalinity of water
pH really measures the difference between
positively and negatively charged hydrogen ions,
hence pH pondus hydrogenii, the power of hydrogen.
pH 7.0 is neutral; less acid; more alkaline.
The scale is logarithmic and each point, i.e.: 7.0 to
8.0, is a ten times greater concentration than the
previous point.
REAL WORLD ADVICE - WHAT TO DO:
All based on “my truth.”:
1. Test your water source, probably tap for most
of us. Get a baseline reading on pH and hardness,
probably neutral and soft around N.Y.C. Repeat a
few times a year. Surprisingly, it may vary
slightly. If your tank readings are different, it’s
because something is going on in there.
2. Test for NITRITE, NO2: you can get by with
this test ALONE. Low levels indicate nitrite is
being converted into nitrate and there is little
ammonia. It was converted to nitrate in the first
place. For greater peace of mind, test for ammonia.
Test for nitrate NO3. When it builds to a level
you don’t consider acceptable - CHANGE THE
WATER! Use test kits that give consistent results.
Kordon and La Motte are considered to be among
the best. Test at the same time of day. Results may
vary at different times. Test weekly; write down
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your results.
filtered water.
3. Test pH weekly. Learn the requirements of the
10. Live plants. Okay to mix with artificial ones.
fish you want before you buy them. pH can be a
Lighting must be adequate to make them grow.
silent killer. Use bromthymol blue to test. It’s
The live ones, silly, not the fakes.
cheap, accurate and consistent. Use drug store
Yes, you can combine the mechanical,
bought (cheap) sodium bi-carbonate (bi-carb) to
biological and chemical filters into one unit. But
reduce acidity; sodium bi-phosphate to reduce
if you’re going to have all three, do it right,
alkalinity. Use 1/8 teaspoon dissolved in warm
dedicate them. One for mechanical, one for
water per 10 gallons to be treated. Wait 2 days
biological and one for chemical.
and re-test. Remember pH 7.0 to 8.0 represents a
Following all my advice will lengthen the
ten fold increase. From 7.0 to 9.0 is a 100 fold
time between water changes. But it can’t be
increase. Make changes SLOWLY! pH is a good
avoided entirely! Make it much less onerous by
starting point for more freshwater fish. Check
buying one of the commercially available
their requirements before you buy them.
sink-faucet to tank hook-ups. They’re great!
4. Test hardness monthly. Too hard? Change the
Or make your own.
water using distilled water, use a “pillow” with a
And always remember the basics: Don’t
water softening resin, available from pet shops,
overfeed, don’t overcrowd and avoid sudden
or put some peat in your mechanical filter and let
temperature changes.
the water run through it. Too soft? Let your water
I’m adding three new ones: TEST, TEST,
run through marble chips or coral sand. Put them
TEST.
in a fine mesh bag first. Changing hardness will
Save this article. I hope it will give you a
probably change the pH. Relax for a few days
greater feeling of control and happy, healthy fish.
and allow your system to stabilize.
All with a minimum of fuss and expense.
5. Add one flat tablespoon of kosher salt (cheap
Although I’ve avoided a hi-tech approach,
and no iodine) per 5 gallons of water. Good for
those interested in the intricate inter-relationship
most freshwater fish. Salt doesn’t evaporate. Remember
between water, living fish and plants and who
that when replacing evaporated water.
Martin A. Moe Jr.’s The Marine Aquarium
6. Change 10% - 20% of your water once a week,
once a fortnight, once in the blue moon based on
TEST RESULTS. Chlorine won’t be a problem for
partial changes. Ignore it. If you must, let the water
stand for a few hours before adding to your tank.
7. Constant aeration-bubbles, power filter, anything!
have some background in chemistry will find
Reference Systems and Invertebrates to be state
of the art. Don’t let the title fool you; fresh or salt,
water is water.
And my special thanks to Todd Urciuoli.
Had he not shared his time and expertise with I
wouldn’t have attempted to write this article.
8. Mechanical filtration: Any kind.
9. Biological filtration: Any kind. Experiment! Try
a reverse flow undergravel using mechanically
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Welcome to the All-Aquarium Catfish Convention 2016
October 13-16, 2016
Hyatt Dulles
2300 Dulles Corner Boulevard
Herndon, VA 20171
The Potomac Valley Aquarium Society is proud to present its seventh biannual All-Aquarium Catfish Convention. This is the official website for the
convention, and your source for all things Catfish.
Stay Tuned - More info coming!
Page 33
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THE STORE WORTH TRAVELING TO SEA!
30% off
732.967.9700
For JSAS
415 State Route 18 East Brunswick, NJ http://www.aquaridise.com/
Hours of Operation: Monday–Friday, 10 a.m.–8 p.m., Saturday, 10 a.m.–6 p.m.,
Sunday, 10 a.m.–5 p.m.
15% off for JSAS
10% OFF FOR JSAS MEMBERS
Page 34
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JASA MEETING SCHEDULE ~ 2015
October 12 @ 8:00 pm ~ Bowl Show and Zoomed New Products
November 9 @ 8:00 pm ~ Frank Policastro “Building a Fish Room”
December 14 @ 8:00 pm ~ Holiday Party
JASA MEETING SCHEDULE ~ 2016
January 11 @ 8:00 pm ~ Will Fitzgerald "Fish Rooms"
February 8 @ 8:00 pm ~ Brian Crush "Saltwater"
March 14 @ 8:00 pm ~ Kerry Dilks
THE OFFICIAL PUBLICATION OF THE JERSEY SHORE AQUARIUM SOCIETY
Editor / Exchange Editor : Russ White rwhite8@optonline.net
Any material reprinted from The Shoreline for noncommercial use, unless
previously copyrighted by the author, credit must be bestowed to the author and
The Shoreline. One copy shall be forwarded to the Editor.
The Shoreline accepts contributions from members and non‐members and
prints submissions as space permits. We are always seeking articles about
keeping or breeding fish, maintaining a fishroom, photos, anecdotes, etc. If you’
re interested in seeing your submission published, please send via email to the
Editor.
Submission deadline is the last Friday of the month for the following
month’s issue. Members in good standing can place ads at no charge. Send ad
copy by email to the Editor.
The Shoreline is published monthly (except August) and distributed via
email to members in good standing.
Page 35
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membership rewards
Your JSAS Membership Card entitles you to valuable discounts at these great
retailers. Be sure to show your current membership card at checkout for your
discount. JSAS membership has its privileges. We must support those who
support us.
Absolutely Fish, Clifton
15% Discount (excludes sale items)
Shark Aquarium, Hillside
15% Discount
Adam’s Pet Safari, Warren & Chester
15% Discount
Sharkey’s Aquarium, Point Pleasant
10% Discount (excluding feeder fish/
shrimp)
Air Water & Ice
www.AirWaterIce.com
10% Discount—Use promo code #
39769 Free Shipping over $150—Use
promo code # 99090
All About Pets, Sea Girt
(JSAS Member)
20% discount—Fish & Aquarium Dry
goods
Allquatics, Hamilton
15% Discount
Tropiquarium, Ocean
10% Discount—Fish Only
Vladiscus, Feasterville, PA
10% Discount
Your Fish Stuff
www.YourFishStuff.com
10% Discount—Use promo code ‘jsas’
Red Sand Aquarium, Dunellen
10% Discount—Marine
Aquaridise, East Brunswick
30% off all fish & most dry goods
Jim Straughn’s Aquarium, Feasterville,
PA
15% Discount
Ocean Gallery Aquatics, N. Plainfield
15% Discount
You can obtain your JSAS
Membership Card from Nancy
Villars/Hallgring when paying or
renewing your annual dues.
WWW.JERSEYSHOREAS.ORG
Page 36
Back to Index
Brooklyn Aquarium Society—Meets at 7:30 pm on the 2nd Friday each month
(except July and August) at the Educational Hall of the New York Aquarium at
Coney Island, Surf Avenue at West 8th Street.
www.BASNY.org
North Jersey Aquarium Society—Meets at 7:45 pm every 3rd Thursday each
month (except August—Picnic; December—Holiday Party) at the Quality Inn 10
Polito Ave, Lyndhurst, NJ.
www.njas.net
Bucks County Aquarium Society—Meets at 7:30 pm on the 1st Thursday each
month (except August) at the Churchville Nature Center, 501 Churchville Lane,
Churchville, PA. www.bcasonline.com
Delaware County Aquarium Society—Meets at 8:00 pm on the 1st Friday each
month (except July and August) at the Springfield Township Building, 50 Powell
Road, Springfield, PA. www.dcas.us
Garden State Betta Association—Meets the 2nd Sunday each month at Frank
Siracusa’s house. Contact him for details: finny1@aol.com
Aquarium Club of Lancaster County—Meets at 1:00 pm on the 3rd Saturday
each month at Hand-in-Hand Fire Co., 313 Enterprise Drive, Bird-in-Hand PA
17505. http://aclcpa.org
Northeast Council of Aquarium Societies (NEC)—As a JSAS member in good
standing, you are automatically a member of NEC. For more information, visit
www.NorthEastCouncil.org or speak with Nancy Villars/Hallgring at an upcoming meeting.
WWW.JERSEYSHOREAS.ORG
Page 37
Back to Index
This coupon is good through
10/31/2015
So if you snooze, you lose!
Page 38

Bowl Show And ZooMed “New Products” Next Meeting: October 12th

Transcription

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