SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS
Transcription
SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS
SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 ATN APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS 2 SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 ATN APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS ON THE COVER The A.T. runs through the breezeway at WalasiYi Center in Georgia. Photo by Valerie A. Long. Inside: Crossing the Kennebec River in Maine; the official A.T. route is the canoe ferry. Photo by Kenneth Wadness. VIEWPOINTS SHELTER REGISTER ♦ L ETTERS 4 OVERLOOK ♦ B RIAN T. F ITZGERALD AND D AVE S TARTZELL 5 REFLECTIONS ♦ I NTO THICK A IR 26 WHITE BLAZES PAPER TRAIL ♦ N EWS H ARPERS FERRY FROM 8 SIDEHILL ♦ N EWS FROM C LUBS AND G OV ERN MENT A GENCIES 11 GREENWAY ♦ L AND - PROTECTION AND F UND - RAISING NEWS 15 TREELINE ♦ N EWS FROM THE A PPALACHIAN TRAIL 18 ALONG BLUE BLAZES LOOP ROUTES ♦ P HIL PEPIN IN THE CROSSHAIRS ♦ A 20 HIKER RELIVES A TRAUMATIC HUNTING ACCIDENT 22 HUNTING SEASONS 2003–2004 23 T R E A D WAY APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS TRAIL GIV ING 16 NOTABLE GIFTS 17 MEMORIAL GIFTS 17 PUBLIC NOTICES 30 3 SHELTER REGISTER Letters from our readers Appalachian Trailway News VOLUME 64, NUMBER 4• SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 Appalachian Trailway News is published by the Appalachian Trail Conference, a nonprofit educational organization representing the citizen interest in the Appalachian Trail and dedicated to the preservation, maintenance, and enjoyment of the Appalachian trailway. Since 1925, the Appalachian Trail Conference and its member clubs have conceived, built, and maintained the Appalachian Trail in cooperation with federal and state agencies. The Conference also publishes guidebooks and other educational literature about the Trail, the trailway, and its facilities. Annual individual membership in the Appalachian Trail Conference is $30; life membership, $600; corporate membership, $500 minimum annual contribution. Volunteer and freelance contributions are welcome. Please include a stamped, self-addressed envelope with your submission. Observations, conclusions, opinions, and product endorsements expressed in Appalachian Trailway News are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of members of the board or staff of the Appalachian Trail Conference. DIRECTOR OF PUBLIC AFFAIRS Brian B. King EDITOR Robert A. Rubin BOARD OF MANAGERS Chair Brian T. Fitzgerald Vice Chairs Carl C. Demrow Thyra C. Sperry Marianne J. Skeen Treasurer Kennard R. Honick Secretary Parthena M. Martin Assistant Secretary Arthur P. Foley New England Region Pamela Ahlen Thomas O. Lewis Kevin “Hawk” Metheny William G. O’Brien Stephen J. Paradis Ann H. Sherwood Mid-Atlantic Region Walter E. Daniels Charles A. Graf Sandra L. Marra Michael D. Patch William Steinmetz Barbara L. Wiemann Southern Region Bob Almand Phyllis Henry Robert P. Kyle William S. Rogers McKinney V. Taylor Steven A. Wilson Members at Large Paul Burkholder Richard Evans EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR David N. Startzell World Wide Web: www.appalachiantrail.org Appalachian Trailway News (ISSN 0003-6641) is published bimonthly, except for January/February, for $15 a year by the Appalachian Trail Conference, 799 Washington Street, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425, (304) 535-6331. Bulk-rate postage paid at Harpers Ferry, WV, and other offices. Postmaster: Send change-of-address Form 3597 to Appalachian Trailway News, P.O. Box 807, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425. Copyright © 2003, The Appalachian Trail Conference. All rights reserved. 4 Champions remembered he Appalachian Trail has lost some of its great champions of recent years: Dave Richie, Liz Levers, Ed Garvey, Ed Page, and George Zoebelein, among others. They will be sorely missed. The beauty of this project is that others are willing to step up and take their places. The Appalachian Trail will endure because it embodies a dream: first of all, the dream of hiking the Trail itself, and then the dream of preserving the footpath and all that surrounds it for others to enjoy through the ages. We all have a great need to pass this legacy down. I am reminded of the words of Tennyson in his poem, “Ulysses”: Tho’ much is taken, much abides: and tho’ We are not now that strength which in the old days Moved earth and heaven, that which we are, we are— One equal temper of heroic hearts, Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will. To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield. Charles W. Sloan Vienna, Virginia T “Board OKs money to fight Pennsylvania driving resort,” does not let the reader in on what a “driving resort” is or why the ATC Board of Managers is fighting the proposal. The only clues were that it involves noise and political maneuverings. Please enlighten those of us who haven’t a clue. Ruth Bleyler Lyme, New Hampshire E DITOR ’S NOTE : The proposal in Eldred Township, Pennsylvania, is essentially for a country club that includes a highspeed road course. Its property abuts the A.T. corridor. On the closed track, drivers of high-performance cars will be able to run them at high speeds. Although the Alpine Rose resort is careful not to call the course a “race track,” since competitive racing is not planned for the site, it will permit operators of cars with highperformance engines to wind them up and let them go. Such engines are loud, and ATC’s acoustic engineering studies indicate that the whine and howl of racing engines will intrude on the quiet of the woods for miles on either side of the planned development, spoiling the sense of solitude that many hikers value. Please see the story on page 10. Smell it as it is Wilderness experience eading “Eau d’hiker” in “How’s your hiker jargon?” in the May–June issue reminded me of a funny incident on my 2000 hike. I had been without a shower for five or six days when I thumbed a ride in the back of a pickup truck to a small motel. When I checked in, I asked the owner if he could give me a shuttle to the local market. He said yes, but then added, “Would you please take a shower before we go?” Harvey Prendeville Southport, North Carolina s many ATN articles and letters have noted, confirmed by my own A.T. hiking, the A.T. is as much about companionship, a social phenomenon, as it is R Driving resort? suspect that I may not be the only one who wonders what a “driving resort” is. In the July–August issue, the article, I A Letters Appalachian Trailway News welcomes your comments. Letters may be edited for clarity and length. Please send them to: Letters to the Editor Appalachian Trailway News P.O. Box 807 Harpers Ferry, WV 25425-0807 E-Mail: <editor@appalachiantrail.org> SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 Overlook Brian T. Fitzgerald and Dave Startzell about a “wilderness experience.“ Crowding and overuse are often noted. Perhaps both types of users would be well-served if we expanded our efforts and concerns to concepts that Benton MacKaye held dear—namely, the protection of the undeveloped green areas, particularly in the national forests through which much of the A.T. runs. Here in western North Carolina, where I live, but also in eastern Tennessee and north Georgia, several million acres of national forest are accessible from the A.T. Western North Carolina alone has some thirty national-forest-designated “roadless areas” more than 5,000 acres in size, all with old trails and logging roads that form an incredible array of potential hiking loops accessible from the A.T. For those who want to avoid the crowds and want a more truly wild experience, those areas are the places to go. Local hiking clubs, such as the Carolina Mountain Club, do pay some attention to trails in these areas (with notable effort on the Mountains-to-Sea Trail), but, as a rule, there is little detailed information available to the general public, and the majority of the trails are unmaintained and unmarked. Would it not be a worthwhile goal for ATC to expand its thinking to encourage more use of these roadless areas, emphasizing their relationship to the A.T.? Furthermore, these Forest Service-designated “roadless areas” currently are protected only by administrative action, which the Bush administration is attempting to overturn or weaken. These are the only areas that might be considered for official “wilderness” protection recommendations. Without public support, these areas eventually will be roaded and logged. Public support will come mainly from those who know these places from hiking and camping in them, something that the Appalachian Trail Conference is ideally suited to promote. Bill Thomas Cedar Mountain, North Carolina APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS aybe we romanticize the 1960s a little, but that decade gave us some of the most forward-looking conservation legislation of the 20th century. National leadership then seemed more active (and less reactive) and visionary. Not only did the national government address pressing social issues, such as civil rights and health care for the elderly, it also gave us the National Historic Preservation Act (1966), the Wilderness Act (1964), the National Environmental Policy Act (1969), the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act (1968), and the National Trails System Act (1968) that authorized the Appalachian National Scenic Trail. It did so during a time of expanding war, deficits, and unprecedented unrest in the streets at home. A somewhat more obscure (but no less significant) law passed in 1965 was the Land and Water Conservation Fund Act. Through it, Congress sought “to assist in preserving, developing, and assuring accessibility to…present and future generations…such quality and quantity of outdoor recreation resources as may be available and are necessary and desirable for individual active participation in such recreation and to the strengthen the health and vitality of the citizens.” To achieve that, Congress set up a fund meant to acquire lands for outdoor-recreation and conservation purposes. Instead of coming from tax dollars, the money was to come from such revenue sources as lease receipts from oil drilling on the outer continental shelf. The basic concept was simple: If the nation exploited certain natural resources—especially nonrenewable resources—it should reinvest at least some of the “profits” in other natural resources. The act directed that no less than $900 million should be credited to the fund each year, but it left it to Congress to decide how much of the fund should be spent each year. Estimates are that the Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF) has supported more than 39,000 state and local park projects in the years since, as well as land acquisition related to many national parks, forests, and wildlife-management areas. Among federal programs, the Appalachian Trail may top the list of beneficiaries: Since 1979, the National Park Service and USDA Forest Service together have received more than $190 million from it to invest in the A.T. corridor, which today is a nearly continuous greenway from Maine to Georgia, surrounding the Trail. Over the years, spending from the fund has fluctuated between about $300 million and $800 million—generally in the lower end of the range since the 1980s, with the bulk going to federal projects. In the late 1990s, however, a grassroots initiative was launched to breathe new life into the program with legislation called the Conservation and Reinvestment Act (CARA). In a deal brokered between the Clinton administration and congressional leaders in 2000, Congress instead created what became commonly known as the Conservation Trust Fund and pledged to appropriate up to $12 billion between fiscal years 2001 and 2006 for land acquisition and other conservation programs. The LWCF was supposed to receive $900 million each year. The incoming Bush administration promised to “fully fund” the LWCF program at the $900-million level. But, for this coming fiscal year, just two years later, the M An idea whose time has gone? continued on page 6 5 Shelter Register administration requested less than $350 million for traditional LWCF applications—$187 million for federal land acquisition and $160 million for state continued from previous page and local park projects. The House of Representatives further reduced that allocation to $198 million—the lowest levels in at least a decade, more than $200 million less than this year. Perhaps, in the wake of terrorist attacks at home and at a time of costly ongoing wars in Afghanistan and Iraq, some of our leaders may view the original concept of the Land and Water Conservation Fund as an idea whose time has gone— a remnant of an earlier age of innocence. We do not. The federal budget should be an expression of all of our many priorities as a nation, as elegantly enumerated in the Constitution’s preamble. There must be allowances made for addressing quality-of-life issues, including the conservation and outdoor-recreation needs of its people. Justice William O. Douglas may have stated it best in writing the majority opinion in a landmark 1954 Supreme Court land-use case, Berman v. Parker. Douglas (an A.T. hiker) wrote: “The concept of the public welfare is broad and inclusive…. The values it represents are spiritual as well as physical, aesthetic as well as monetary. It is within the power of [the] legislature to determine that the community should be beautiful as well as healthy, spacious as well as clean, well-balanced as well as carefully patrolled.” We should never stop looking forward. An idea whose time . . . Brian T. Fitzgerald is chair of the Appalachian Trail Conference; Dave Startzell is executive director. Dogs on A.T. hat everyone who hikes the A.T. with a dog needs to understand is that doing so is a privilege, not a right. The A.T. is not a giant dog park. It would behoove dog owners to be courteous of other hikers so that dogs may continue to enjoy the unparalleled freedom of hiking the A.T. This means, at the very least, keeping dogs leashed around other hikers, and tenting out instead of sleeping in shelters, unless you are positive nobody minds having the dog around. Dogs are territorial and will defend their camp by barking, which means they consider the shelter exclusively their home once you settle in there. Understandably, this can be very annoying for some people. We are eternally grateful to have had the opportunity to be accompanied by our late dog, Trudy the Trail Terrier, from Maine to Georgia. Her recent death has made us appreciate even more that we were able to share with her such an incredible experience—one that probably won’t exist much longer if people W 6 continue to allow their dogs to negatively impact other hikers. Maud Dillingham Cesar Becerra Los Angeles, California Hiker Fantasies t bothered me to read Mr. Innes’ recent letter (July–August) denigrating A.T. hikers as living in a fantasy world and suggesting that the hiker community needed to “grow up and face facts.” We all have our fantasies, and, while it is true we need to face facts, Mr. Innes’ “facts” are far from the reality of the energy situation in the United States. The reality is that we are a nation of wasteful people who would rather devour our finite resources to maintain our high standards of living than learn to economize and make better use of what we have. Go check your thermostats, people—what do you set it at in the winter and summer? Do you have programmable thermostats to keep you from wasting energy when no one is home? When the I weather is nice enough, do you turn your air conditioning off and open the windows? How many of us cared when Congress did not dictate more stringent automobile fuel efficiency (the CAFE) standards)? How many of us will choose our next vehicle using its mileage rating? How many of us use public transportation? How many of us advocate improving our public transportation systems to make them time-effective and cost-effective alternatives to driving? The list goes on. Once we have learned to economize, then it will be time to talk about developing more energy sources. Until then, we are just enabling ourselves to avoid dealing with reality. Mr. Innes said that we “ought to be willing to see our world as we have made it.” If we take that attitude to its logical conclusion, we should pave over the entire Trail. While it is true that most of the forest along the A.T. is a mere facsimile of what was there 400 years ago, don’t we have enough reminders of today’s world when we go hiking? Pierre Katona Brooklyn, Ohio X n the July–August issue of ATN, Richard B. Innes writes that hikers who wish to preserve natural viewsheds along the A.T. are “fantasizing” that human impact on the landscape does not exist. He would be happy with A.T. viewsheds that reflect the full scope of human activity along the Trail. To the contrary, it is life in civilization that has become a long and tiring flight from reality. It remains to be seen whether anything we would recognize as wild and natural will survive the elaborate and increasingly disturbing fantasies of the human race, circa 2003. For now, the relatively unfettered environment of the A.T. corridor is about as real as life and land get east of the Mississippi. Life on the Trail—working hard in a natural setting during the day and resting in the company of trustworthy friends and strangers at night—is not unlike the style of living humans pursued for thousands I SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 of years, before the rise of industry. (As an acquaintance of mine has noted, the main difference is that now we have Gore-Tex.) Trail living is the most genuine, uplifting human experience there is. To sully this experience with yet more views of cell towers, windmills, quarries, ski resorts, race courses, suburban-style developments, and clear-cuts would be a disgrace. Development already has powerful advocates: those who wish to profit from it. As members of the ATC, it is our responsibility to advocate on behalf of the Trail, to protect it from development. We aren’t pretending that human development doesn’t exist or saying that it shouldn’t exist. We aren’t antitechnology—our hiking gear is high-tech. We’re merely acknowledging that the A.T. experience is different from that in civilization and remarkably beneficial to us. If the A.T. is to retain its character, the corridor and viewshed—a tiny sliver of land, really— must remain as wild as possible. Hal Wright (“Pokey”) Holland, Pennsylvania Windmills s Frederick Saal so clearly stated, it doesn’t take long for population growth to outpace even fairly significant gains in the energy supply-demand relationship. I would like to add two thoughts to his excellent letter. First, similar reasoning applies to nearly everything that consumes resources or damages the environment. Second, in many cases, demand is growing even faster than the population. Electric power and fuel for motor vehicles are the first examples that come to mind. Robert T. Foley Philadelphia, Pennsylvania A Crossing the Pochuck ill Miller’s experiences crossing the Kennebec in Maine and hiking in northern British Columbia sound tantalizing and worthy of the most adventurous of hikers. Many of us dream of spending time in places that are untouched and totally wild, but you will have to agree B APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS Pochuck during flood. Photo: Larry Wheelock that those experiences were in areas very remote from the twenty or more million people who live in and around New Jersey. Not many of the thousands of people who enjoy the benefits of the A.T. through the northern part of this state would choose to wade or swim across the Pochuck floodplain in a year of normal rainfall. The accompanying photo was taken in November 2002 during one of the frequent flooding events. The only alternative for hikers would have been a mile-and-a-half walk along a busy, shoulderless road. Larry Wheelock Trails Director, New York–New Jersey Trail Conference Thanks, Mr. Paley he article, “Mr. Paley, I’ve been thinking” (May–June ATN), was so great! It’s people like Bob Paley who make Boy Scouts the fine organization it is and kids like Erik who make his job so fulfilling. Thanks, Mr. Paley. Bill Strickland Westminster, South Carolina T Black Magic n a recent trip through the “100-Mile Wilderness” in Maine, my girlfriend and I stopped upon a sight that has grown all too familiar along the A.T.: garbage masquerading as Trail magic. A presumably excited and well-intentioned northbound hiker had left a twelve-pack of soda and some grub at the road crossing at the base of Chairback Mountain on August O 1, intended for the thru-hikers behind him and aspiring southbounders on their way to Georgia. Unfortunately, when my girlfriend and I reached the crossing on August 14, what was left was scattered empty aluminum cans and soggy cardboard. It amounted to no less than litter and soured the rest of my day. I packed out the lot of it to Monson. How could a thru-hiker (of all people) be so careless? It’s time the Trail community had a discussion on Trail magic, especially in light of the popularity of the A.T. and the heightened awareness of the A.T. in neighboring towns. Whenever I read the ATN, I inevitably read a story where Trail magic is mentioned. Magic is often cast in a sacred light where Trail angels descend from heaven to bathe the unsuspecting hiker in food, drink, shuttles, and shelter. The stories always make me smile and remind me of my own magical experience, when an elderly couple spontaneously bought me a room at the Holiday Inn Express in Hiawassee, Georgia, on my southbound thru-hike in 2002. Can there possibly a negative side to such unabashed generosity? Dare anyone criticize the selfless giving by total strangers? After seeing empty soda cans littering the path before me in Maine, I can think of a few words. I am not opposed to Trail magic. What irks me is when water jugs, sodas, candy bars, etc. are left unattended on the A.T. Whether there is a trash receptacle left behind or a cooler present is no matter—it’s garbage, plain and simple. A soda can will be dropped on the ground, plastic wrappers will scatter, empty water jugs will blow away, Styrofoam coolers will chip off. Unattended Trail magic is ugly and violates basic Leave No Trace principles. If you are considering providing Trail magic, take off half a day and pass it out personally! Have hikers pack out the trash, or pack it out yourself. That way, not only will the A.T. stay garbage-free, but you’ll see the faces of the happy hikers you’ve bestowed your magic upon! Dan Feldman Washington, D.C. 7 PAPER TRAIL News from Harpers Ferry Public-policy issues challenge ATC, Trail, Startzell reports WATERVILLE 2003 For more news from ATC’s Waterville 2003 meeting, please see the stories on pages 9-15, and a photo collage on page 31. flagging economy, foreign wars, and a national focus on domestic security may seem unconnected to the Appalachian Trail, ATC Executive Director Dave Startzell told a meeting of Conference members in July, but they threaten the future of the Conference and the Trail. “In the wake of recent events involving terrorism, the conduct of foreign affairs, and a flagging economy, there is a very real risk that issues affecting our environment and our quality of life will be relegated to a secondary status,” Startzell said. “And yet, we are learning more and more that those issues do have a direct effect on the Trail, its resources, and its visitors.” Startzell’s warning came as part of the status report to members that he delivers every two years at the biennial meeting of the Conference. At the 2003 meeting, in Waterville Valley, New Hampshire, he outlined the biggest threats to ATC during coming years, as well as describing what the Conference is doing right and where it can do better. “As we gather here today, significant debates are taking place in our nation’s capital, and many more policy deci- A 8 sions are being made by fiat, often behind closed doors,” Startzell said. “We need to become less insular…, and we need to marshal the considerable influence that resides within our membership, our clubs’ memberships, and among all of those who assign value to the Trail and its resources,” he said. Startzell’s speech grew out of a “SWOT” (strength, weakness, opportunity, and threat) analysis undertaken at the urging of the Board of Managers, a long, hard look at how the organization works and what it does. Among ATC’s strengths, Startzell said, was a strong and supportive membership whose dues and financial gifts made up more than a quarter of its annual operating revenues. But, he said, a corresponding weakness was a “relatively stagnant” membership base. Another strength, Startzell said, was ATC’s ability to attract and retain highly qualified, experienced volunteer leaders and paid employees. But, as the Conference’s responsibilities have grown, staff members are hard-pressed to keep up, “forced to juggle too many priorities.” To add insult to injury, he said, there has been a lid on salaries as a result of tight budgets in recent years. Setting clearer priorities, doing a better job of parceling out the work, and changing the way the Board operates are among the goals of the organizational analysis, he said. That may mean attracting new Board members from outside the traditional Trail-maintaining community. Volunteers—“nearly 5,000 of them, who devote close to 200,000 hours of labor each year in all manner of Trailmanagement work”—make up another key strength of ATC, he said. But, the volunteer population is aging, at a time when the demands on them are becoming more complex. Both ATC and local Trail clubs need to do better at recruiting, motivating, and keeping new members and volunteers. Startzell called for more alliances with corporate and foundation partners, along with doing a better job of recruiting and keeping members, instead of appeals “for the latest crisis de jour.” He praised the Park Service’s A.T. Park Office, calling the cooperative arrangement “the envy of other long-distance trail networks.” But, he said, “We need to expand our efforts to cultivate agencies at the highest levels and to educate those who hold key positions about the true meaning of partnership.” Unlike many conservation Dave Startzell (Photo: Steven Wilson) organizations, Startzell said, the Conference’s link with a single concrete resource—the Trail—gives it a clear focus. “But, because the Trail spans more than 2,100 miles, often in proximity to many metropolitan areas, it sometimes seems like the Trail is in everyone’s way,” he said. The resulting battles are time-consuming and costly, he said. “We have to pick our battles wisely.” One opportunity for the Conference lies in capitalizing on the Trail’s symbolic significance for Americans. “As the nation’s oldest and bestknown long-distance trail, the A.T. enjoys what some have termed an ‘icon status’ in the minds of a significant segment of our population. In theory, the value those people assign to the Trail could be translated into tangible support, both for ATC and for the Trail itself.” Although the Trail is an icon he said, the Conference is not. continued on page 17 SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 Paper Trail Fitzgerald reelected ATC chair; Conference officers elected ppalachian Trail Conference members, meeting in New Hampshire in July, elected Brian T. Fitzgerald of South Duxbury, Vermont, to a second term as chair of the Appalachian Trail Conference. Members also reelected a slate of Conference officers, including three regional vicechairs: Carl C. Demrow, of West Topsham, Vermont (New England), Thyra C. Sperry of Boiling Springs, Pennsylvania (mid-Atlantic), and Marianne J. Skeen of Decatur, Georgia (southern); a secretary, Parthena N. Martin of Chapel Hill, North Carolina; assistant secretary, Arthur P. Foley of Colorado Springs, Colorado; and treasurer, Kennard Honick of Sarasota, Florida. Members of the Conference meet every two years—at locations rotating among three regions—to hear reports on the status of the Trail project, elect their governing board, attend workshops, and hike. The business meetings and workshops are clustered during the first three days, followed by four days of hikes, talks, and entertainment. The 34th meeting since the organization was founded in a Washington, D.C., hotel meeting room in 1925 was held July 25–August 1 at Waterville Valley, New Hampshire, at the southern edge of the White Mountain National Forest. Not quite half of the approximately 750 registered A APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS attended the main business meeting for elections and the consideration of resolutions (all of which covered internal matters this time). The Board of elected volunteers governs the Conference, setting its budget, developing ATC perspectives on Trail policies enforced by its federal-agency partners, and overseeing the general direction of programs and activities. In addition to the seven Conference officers, three groups of six volunteers each represent ATC members in a specific region and two at-large volunteers represent members outside Trail states. Also elected July 28 were Pamela Ahlen of Woodstock, Vermont; Bob Almand, Suwanee, Georgia; Paul Burkholder, Winchester, Virginia; Walter E. Daniels, Mohegan Lake, New York; Richard C. Evans, Orlando, Florida; Charles A. Graf, Arnold, Maryland; Phyllis Henry, Seymour, Tennessee; Robert P. Kyle, Richmond, Virginia; Thomas O. Lewis, Yarmouth, Maine; Sandra L. Marra, Fairfax, Virginia; Kevin (Hawk) Metheny, Hartland, Vermont; Bill O’Brien, Meriden, Connecticut; Steve Paradis, Methuen, Massachusetts; Michael Patch, Springfield, Virginia; William S. Rogers, Suffolk, Virginia; Ann H. Sherwood, Kent, Connecticut; William Steinmetz, Bethlehem, Pennsylvania; McKinney Officers (L–R): Startzell, Honick, Sperry, Skeen, Demrow, Fitzgerald, Foley, Martin. (ATC Photo) New England (L–R): Field, Paradis, Ahlen, Sherwood, Metheny, O’Brien. (ATC Photo) Mid-Atlantic (L–R): Steinmetz, Patch, Graf, Daniels, Marra, Wiemann. (ATC Photo) Southern (L–R): Taylor, Wilson, Henry, Kyle, Almand, Evans, Rogers. (ATC Photo) continued on page 17 9 Paper Trail ATC data overlooked in high-speed track case Pennsylvania judge did not consider data from a $35,000 sound study that ATC had commissioned in an attempt to put the brakes on plans for a 360-acre high-speed “car resort” adjacent to the Trail. He sent the matter back to the local board of supervisors on a decision based on other issues. The proposed Alpine Rose Resort near Smith Gap, along Pennsylvania’s Blue Mountain, would allow drivers of high-performance cars to open their throttles wide and run the machines at high speed along a twisting, closed road course close to the A.T. Trail proponents have argued that the “noise pollution” from the A high-revving engines would ruin the sense of solitude and quiet along the Trail for miles in either direction. Monroe County Common Pleas Judge Ronald Vican did not respond to data from experts on both sides of the issue. Instead, he directed the Eldred Township Board of Supervisiors to address issues related to traffic congestion near the planned track and possible impacts on local police and firefighting resources. The supervisors subsequently delayed taking any action until October. ATC appealed the judge’s decision in August. Bob Proudman, ATC’s director of Trail-management programs, urged the supervisors to take the full 90 days under state law to consider the judge’s order. He noted that the court’s decision did not cite any portions of the $35,000 sound studies ATC commissioned, which showed far higher impacts on the Trail than the developer had asserted and also showed flaws in the developer’s more recent sound-impact analyses. The court also made no mention of the state of Pennsylvania’s extraordinary “friend of the court” brief affirming that Trailside municipalities have an affirmative duty to protect the Trail under state law, although Vican did acknowledge the mandates of the Pennsylvania Appalachian Trail Act. Proudman also told the supervisors that the developer’s noise calculations contradict information he submitted. ATC and its coplaintiff, the grassroots Blue Mountain Preservation Association, he said, effectively shredded the developer’s previous sound studies submitted to the township, which had imposed a condition on its permit approval of no increase of more than five decibels in ambient sound levels in the rural area. The judge ruled that, until that condition had been violated, the Conference and the preservation association could not properly sue to stop it. ATC, NPS honor Underhill, Dunn, and Skeen .T. Park Manager Pamela Underhill was awarded a surprise citation for meritorious service from Interior Secretary Gale Norton at the 34th meeting of the Appalachian Trail Conference in Waterville Valley, New Hampshire. The citation—presented by Conference keynote speaker Karen Wade, retiring director of the National Park Service’s Intermountain Region (who got her NPS start in the original A.T. Project Office in 1978)—recognized that Underhill “has one of the most challenging assignments in the [National Park] Service.” The award is one of the highest for which Interior employees are eligible. A 10 Manager for the A.T. since 1996 and a worker on the project for twenty-four years, Underhill was described as “at times a peacemaker, at times a fearless defender of the Trail.” “Ms. Underhill’s career advancements have closely paralleled the remarkable growth of the Appalachian Trail community,” the citation read. “Her passion and compasson for the Appalachian Trail and its community of involved citizens have profoundly and positively affected the Trail in a way that few, if any, federal employees have accomplished.” Honored by the outgoing Executive Committee with the Conference’s highest award, honorary membership, were Craig Dunn of Camp Hill, Pennsylvania, a leader in the establishment in 1982 of ATC’s land-trust program and in the 1980s struggle for a permanent, off-road location for the A.T. through the Cum- berland Valley of Pennsylvania, and Marianne J. Skeen of Decatur, Georgia, currently southern vice chair and former Georgia A.T. Club president who has assumed leadership roles in many Conference activities over the last decade. Dave Field presents honorary life membership to Marianne Skeen. Karen Wade (left) and Dave Startzell present citation to Underhill. (ATC photos) SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 SIDEHILL News of clubs and government agencies Saw policy draws maintainers’ ire at Waterville “town meeting” ATERVILLE VALLEY, N.H.—Complaints by volunteer workers about “bureaucratic” regulations on the use of chain saws and crosscut saws for Trail maintenance prompted ATC officials this spring to revise draft Conference policies on the issue and defend them during a meeting here July 28. Until the early 1980s, virtually anyone with a chain saw or crosscut saw could use it to clear the Trail. But, after ATC signed new formal agreements with federal land-management agencies, volunteer workers were included under federal worker-safety requirements, which led to certification rules in the 1990s. Certifications were issued to many volunteer sawyers, who, like all recognized Trail-maintaining volunteers, are insured by the government against accidents during authorized Trailmaintaining activities on national park and forest land. As federal policies were revised in the late 1990s, more stringent safety requirements were added. At first, those were felt by volunteers only in the national forests of the South, but soon their effect was extended through all the Trail states, and ATC began drafting its own guidelines about volunteer safety. ATC’s policy has no effect on the federal regulations, which are agency guidelines, but is aimed at giving Conference volunteers a consistent and clearly codified set of rules W APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS to operate under. One club newsletter editorial had called it “the end of the volunteer maintenance system.” And, several maintainers questioned the policy during the “town meeting” at the end of the biennial ATC business meeting. “We’ve been working on this issue for two years now,” Bob Proudman, ATC’s director of Trail-management programs told the meeting. “It may seem like we’re taking all the Bill Rogers talks chain saws at Waterville requirements of federal worker safety programs and field, and to wear governmentplacing them on your backs. approved protective equipBut, under the Park Service ment, such as cut-resistant and Forest Service programs, chaps, eight-inch-high boots, if one of you hurts yourself, and eye and ear protection. your medical and legal ex- Several pointed out that ATC penses are covered, so they’re clubs have a “near-perfect extremely particular about the safety record.” training you get.” “I’m not sure we ought not Among the standards that go to the federal guys and say, maintainers complained about ‘We want your reasons,’” Liles were requirements that chain- Creighton of the Potomac A.T. and crosscut-sawyers be “re- Club complained at the meetcertified” once every three ing. “For 75 years, we had no years, which was too frequent, problems. Now, all of a sudasserted experienced, regu- den, we have to be certified. larly practicing sawyers. The I’m sixty-six years old, and I certification process requires have to be certified. An ax is a volunteer to give up several more dangerous than a crossdays to take training classes cut saw, but you don’t have to and then go back again in an- be certified to use it. A brushother three years and do it over cutter with a steel head is again. Sawyers are also re- more dangerous. We need to quired to be trained in CPR make sure the justifications and wilderness medicine, in are solid.” the event of an accident in the After ATC received a pack- Valley. (Photo: Steven Wilson) full of letters and e-mails complaining about the regulations early in 2003, Proudman said, they went back and revised the policy, working to make it easier for the volunteers to comply. A revised policy was published in The Register in July. The Conference pledged to provide its own trainers, to phase in certain requirements gradually, and to make sure that volunteers didn’t have to go too far out of their way to be properly trained or to spend too much of their own money. Larry Wheelock, trails director for the New York–New Jersey Trails Conference, said at the meeting that maintainers would soon get used to the new requirements. “We’ve been doing the chainsaw cercontinued on page 29 11 Sidehill Appalachian Trail Park Office announces 2003 service awards for Trail volunteers he Appalachian Trail Park Office (ATPO) of the National Park Service has named five recipients of its “Golden Service Award,” which recognizes fifty years of active volunteer service on the Appalachian Trail. Another eighty-six volunteers were named recipients of the “Silver Service Award,” which recognizes twenty-five years of active volunteer service. “It is a privilege for me to be able to recognize these dedicated volunteers for their remarkable contributions to the Appalachian Trail,” said Pam Underhill, ATPO park manager. The awards are presented at each Appalachian Trail Conference biennial meeting and recognize a continuing volunteer commitment to the A.T. This year’s meeting was in Waterville Valley, New Hampshire. Nominations were solicited from Trail clubs and T individuals. The ninety-one volunteers represented fifteen Trail clubs and ATC. A.T. 50-Year/Golden Awards Steve Clark, Maine A.T. Club Peter Richardson, Green Mountain Club Ruth E. Blackburn, Potomac A.T. Club Steve Abell, AMC–Berkshire Chapter Raymond Catozzi, Green Mountain Club A.T. 25-Year/Silver Awards Maine A.T. Club: Laurence Clark, Dolly Clow, Beatrice Hanson, Harold Hanson, Vernon Huestis, Philip Pepin, Fred Goldrup, John Morgan, Chris Wolfe, Lester Kenway, Eric Anderson, Victor Ardine, Bob Cummings, Elsa Sanborn, Richard Dreselly, Margery Dreselly, Milton Gross, Melvine McCorrison, Lendall Parson, John Neff, Richard Innes, Philip Chaney, Edith Chaney, Barbara Clark Green Mountain Club: Denis LaForce, Preston Bristow, Kimball Simpson, Kathleen Donaghue, Mark Brown, Joseph P. Cook, Dorothy MacDonald, Don Whitney, Paul Magoon, Earl Williams, Edna Williams AMC–Berkshire Chapter: Rudy Yondorf, Earl McWhorter, Kay Wood AMC–Connecticut Chapter: Dick Blake, Norm Sills (2001 award) New York–New Jersey Trail Conference: Ralph Ferrusi, Ron Rosen Philadelphia Trail Club: John Gall, Mary Gall York Hiking Club: James Hooper, R. Ronald Gray Mountain Club of Maryland: Elinor Pitt-Ives Potomac A.T. Club: Frank A. Smith, Shirley Strong, Paula M. Strain, Warren C. Sharp, Willard F. Rahn, Olivia K. Pickett, Philip Paschall, Matthew J. Ogorzalek, Kenneth K. Lacey, Charles R. Irvin, Robert Humphrey Tidewater A.T. Club: Reese Lukei, Mal Higgins Piedmont A.T. Hikers: Danny Lineberger, Richard Lawrence, Camille Lawrence, William H. Craft, Lib Conner, Bob Conner, David Emrey, Danny Booker, David Bland, Maxine Blackwood, Rand Sample, Guyon Phillips, Jeanne Phillips Carolina Mountain Club: Sherman Stambaugh, James Bloom, Dr. Ed Dunn, John Hillyer, Lewis Blodget Smoky Mountains Hiking Club: Steve Higdon Nantahala Hiking Club: Virginia Alford, the Rev. William Haselden, Lillian Haselden Georgia A.T. Club: Marianne Skeen, Hillrie Quin, Craig Lyerla, Elmer Butler Unaffiliated: Arthur P. Foley Ovoka Farm land adds spectacular view to A.T. he A.T. will soon be reclaiming one of the Trail’s most spectacular views of the rolling Virginia countryside. Six tracts of land on Ovoka Farm, a mountaintop farm in Clarke and Fauquier counties, were purchased in July by the National Park Service’s National Trails Land Resources Program Center in Martinsburg, West Virginia, and will be added to the A.T. corridor, the Park Service announced. The A.T. once ran across private property on the farm, which features a spectacular overlook of Virginia’s Sky Meadows State Park and rolling countryside in the Paris Valley of western Virginia, near Ashby Gap. The land was eventually closed to hikers, though, and, for decades, the Trail has been forced to bypass the views and skirt the side of the ridge through a viewless, wooded corridor of public land. The six plots purchased in July included about 463 acres, with good access and visibility, and are mostly wooded with T 12 hardwood trees, the Park Service reported. The view from Ashby Gap on the crest of the Blue Ridge is a frequent subject for landscape painters. The Park Service said the acquisition will protect the scenic views along that section of the Trail, as well as historical roads used by colonial and Civil War armies. A relocation of the Trail is planned to return it to the hillcrest. The purchase was made possible by the work of ATC and Piedmont Environmental Council (PEC). The council bought the land from the family that owned it, and ATC helped get the federal appropriations authorized to buy 314 acres of the property. PEC then sold those acres to the Park Service for a reported $1.2 million. An additional 131 acres were donated. View of Sky Meadows from Ovoka Farm (ATC photograph) SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 ATC 2003: Keynote address looks at role of government, volunteers By Karen Wade EDITOR’S NOTE: The following is excerpted from a speech by Karen Wade, director of the National Park Service’s Intermountain Region, delivered to ATC members attending the 2003 conference in Waterville Valley, New Hampshire, July 26. y convictions about conservation began forming in 1978, when I worked as the southern regional trail coordinator of the Appalachian Trail project under David Richie [first NPS director of the A.T. project]. Achieving the goals of the project (to assure permanent protection of the Appalachian Trail) required setting aside the traditional notions of turf and responsibility. The relationships that had grown up with the Trail since its inception were highly complex. Many players had roles to play, M APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS and no entity dominated. And, importantly, the Appalachian Trail community—this rather loose confederation of interests—could only succeed in permanent protection if it could convince landowners that selling land, or providing easement access, was not only in the best interests of the Trail, but was also the highest and best use of the land. The legacy of this principle is present today. Today, each of us gathered here would say, “I am the Appalachian Trail.” And, collectively, that chorus can be heard across the landscape and has been heard for generations. The chorus reminds us of the power implicit in connecting ourselves in common pursuit for the common good. And, yes, that chorus makes us feel good. Because, together, we are the Appalachian Trail. Perhaps this chorus should be a constant reminder to the nation that special places and pieces of the landscape cannot survive and thrive in isolation any more than individuals can. All are stronger within the context of community, where political, social, environmental, and cultural values are strong. And stronger where the community shares the responsibility for what benefits the whole. Aldo Leopold said this with clarity: “There is a clear tendency in American conservation to relegate to government all necessary jobs that private landowners fail to perform… . Most of this growth in governmental conservation is proper and logical; some of it is inevitable. Nevertheless, the question arises: What is the ultimate magnitude of the enterprise? Will the tax base carry its eventual ramifications? At what point will governmental conservation, like the mastodon, become handicapped by its own dimensions?” The answer for conservation, he says, if there is any, seems to be in appreciating that the community has a responsibility of shared interest based on a conservation ethic of shared values. The places that we care the most about have the power to touch our deepest emotions and connect us to the greater good. “I am the Appalachian Trail” is a refrain that has resonated in my mind in every situation that has confronted me as a park superintendent since I left the Trail in 1983 and has guided my work for 25 years. In 1990, after serving as superintendent in two parks, I made the decision to accept a superintendency in Alaska. Over the course of the next four years, I learned that even continued on page 29 13 Sidehill Underhill: Trail protection will never be completed By Pamela Underhill EDITOR’S NOTE—The following is excerpted from A.T. Park Office Manager Pamela Underhill’s status report to ATC members at the 34th meeting of the Conference in Waterville Valley, New Hampshire, on July 26. hirty-five years ago, it was the summer of 1968. Martin Luther King, Jr., had been assassainated in April, Bobby Kennedy in June. I was a nineteen-year-old college student working for Senator T Mike Mansfield, then the Senate majority leader. Because of the recent assassinations, I was squirreled away in a little room on Capitol Hill, opening thousands of pieces of mail a day that people had written, advocating for or against gun-control legislation. The Vietnam war dragged on. I’d never even heard of the Appalachian Trail. Elsewhere on Capitol Hill, though, under the leadership of people like Senator Gaylord Nelson, the political wheels were turning and the stars Corridor countdown t was the hope of Congress, the federal administration, and the Trail community that the Appalachian Trail could be pronounced “fully protected” by the end of the century on December 31, 2000. Now, it appears that the National Park Service portion of the protection program could be completed in 2003 or 2004, with the Forest Service finishing its portion a year or two later. Footpath tracts are completely acquired in four of the fourteen A.T. states, but many acres of protective corridor remain privately held. Here is where the federal and state agencies stood as of July 2003 in terms of footpath miles (0.5 of one percent) and adjoining acreage (4.6 percent) left to acquire: I States Maine New Hampshire Vermont Massachusetts Connecticut New York New Jersey Pennsylvania Maryland Virginia West Virginia/Va. N.C./Tennessee Georgia Total 14 Map Miles 1.6 0.1 0.0 0.1 0.7 0.1 0.0 2.8 3.5 4.4 0.0 1.5 0.0 13.5 Acres 274 4 81 346 243 272 115 140 680 2,356 0 2,794 513 7,498 were beginning to line up and shine down brightly on the Appalachian Trail. In late September, Congress passed the National Trails System Act, and, on October 2, President Johnson signed it into law. The Appalachian Trail was designated as our nation’s first national Underhill (right) with former U.S. Sen. scenic trail. As important as that Gaylord Nelson, at Bears Den Rocks. event was, though, it would prove ultimately less after that quirky rumor got significant than the amend- started in 1999 that Appalaments to the act that were chian Trail protection would passed ten years later, in 1978. be “completed” in the year It was those amendments that 2000. Don King [of the Trail launched the most complex lands office] never liked that and most successful land-pro- notion, insisting that that was tection effort ever undertaken not the best way to frame the by the National Park Service. question. He suggested inTwenty-five years (and some stead, and I concur, that pro108,000 acres, and more than tection of the Trail will never 2,500 tracts of land) later, the be completed—as such. effort is almost complete. We will complete what we Some tough battles have set out to do, and then some, been fought, and some abso- and we’ll keep at it until Don lutely extraordinary places runs out of money. But, the have been brought into public Trail will not be finished when ownership—places like Gulf we buy the last tract—we will Hagas, Nahmakanta Lake, and keep the door always open and Saddleback in Maine; Sterling be watchful for opportunities Forest in New York; the Cum- to do more. We can’t expect a berland Valley in Pennsylva- steady stream of funding, like nia; and McAfee Knob and the Trail has enjoyed in the Carvins Cove in Virginia, just past, but, when a compelling to name a few. Earlier this case can be made, I’m sure week, Don King of the NPS ATC will make it. land office brought under conIf it wasn’t for ATC and the tract the Ovoka Farm property interest and persistence that in northern Virginia. your organization has demonA mere sixty-five tracts strated, the National Park remain in private ownership Service would never have been in the National Park Service able to accomplish what it program, and some seventeen has. So, my hat is off to you, of those were added by me ATC, and I thank you. SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 GREENWAY Land-protection and fund-raising news It’s not “all about money” By Ken Honick EDITOR’S NOTE: The following is excerpted from ATC Treasurer Ken Honick’s report to members at the 2003 business meeting, held in Waterville Valley, New Hampshire, July 28. Honick, an A.T. 2,000-miler, lives in Sarasota, Florida. bout a year ago, a popular Trail Web site featured an editorial headed, “ATC— It’s all about money now!” bemoaning an issue of Appalachian Trailways News that seemed overly focused on money. As treasurer of ATC and also as chair of the membership and development committee, it seems like my involvement with ATC is “all about money”—monitoring and overseeing the raising of money and the spending of money. In my professional life, I’m a tax partner in a CPA firm. Has my life become “all about money?” If I didn’t get out on the Trail and hike each year, I might come to believe that. Especially as a solo hiker, I find hiking to be a very personal, spiritual experience. I don’t go out to conquer mountains but to be consumed by them. I’ve just hiked the Long Trail in Vermont, and, at least when I’m hiking, nothing is about money. If you’ve ever been a longdistance hiker yourself or been around long-distance hikers or eavesdropped on hikers the A APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS night before they go into town for a maildrop and to reprovision, you might get the impression that hiking is “all about food.” It is what we talk about, fantasize about, and dream about. It was particularly bad this year. I hiked with an Appalachian Trail thru-hiker from France, Daniel. Whenever he would describe some particularly delectable pâté or Bordeaux, he couldn’t resist exclaiming, “Bon. C’est magnifique!” and making the gesture. And, each time he would bop himself on the nose with his hiking stick. But, do you really believe that hiking is “all about food?” Of course not. Food is just the energy that makes hiking possible. It’s natural to fantasize about what we don’t have but what we want. It is the same thing at ATC. Money is the energy we need to fight racetracks in Pennsylvania, rock quarries in North Carolina, and telecommunications towers up and down the Trail. Money enables us to provide the training and coordination to the volunteers in the maintaining clubs and to educate visitors to the Trail and the general public. Without food, a hiker doesn’t get far. Without money, ATC is dead. ATC is in good financial health and is living within its means. Like a thru-hiker, ATC is lean without much in the way of reserves. We have burned off the fat and have started to burn muscle. By that, I mean the staff of the Conference. Burning muscle is not sustainable on a long hike. You need town food and zerodays to recover. But, ATC hasn’t had either in the past two years. Reductions in force, hiring freezes, and only minimal salary Ken Honick reports at Waterville adjustments have been (Photo: Steve Wilson) the rule. We have maintained programs at the and expand our environmental expense of staff. This is not monitoring and educational sustainable and must be one capabilities. But, ATC is not of the challenges for our stra- “all about money.” It’s about people and doing what we can tegic planning. In some ways, I wish ATC with what we have. It’s about were “all about money” and trying to support the clubs and could do all of the wonderful the volunteers who do the real things that would protect and work. And, it is about wishing improve the Trail experience. for more. I wish we could buy more land Audit shows good news for ATC he independent audit of the Conference’s 2002 financial statements brought a dollop of good news in late July. The operating surplus for last year was recorded as $137,219, or about $19,000 more than thought at the time the annual report was written for the July/August edition of Appalachian Trailway News. Moreover, the drop in total net assets—due to unrealized losses in the value of endowment-fund investments—turned out to be only 1.1 percent, to $8.35 million, instead of the 2.6 percent reported on the basis of preliminary statements. Both of those results came in part from a recalculation of the extent of those unrealized losses, now put at about $577,000 instead of the $665,600 reported then. The entire financial statement and notes can be viewed on the Internet in the “About ATC” section of <www. appalachiantrail.org>. T 15 Greenway TRAIL GIVING By Christina Auch illiam James once said, “The greatest use of a life is to spend it on something that will outlast it.” Life insurance offers a unique way to leverage relatively modest annual payments into a sizable charitable gift. There are four basic ways to benefit the Appalachian Trail Conference using life insurance: W Name the Appalachian Trail Conference as your successor beneficiary. For example, you own a policy and have named your spouse as the beneficiary. You could name the Appalachian Trail Conference as successor beneficiary in the event that your chosen primary beneficiary dies before you. There are no immediate tax benefits, but, if no successor beneficiary were named, the death benefit would be included in your taxable estate. Charitable gifts of life insurance Name the Appalachian Trail Conference as your primary beneficiary. For example, if you purchased a policy several years ago, but your chosen beneficiary no longer needs the protection, you can designate the Appalachian Trail Conference to receive the benefit. Once again, your estate would receive a charitable deduction, and the death benefit would pass to ATC tax-free. You can donate an existing policy to the Appalachian Trail Conference. If you have older insurance policies that you no longer need and would like a current income-tax deduction, you can donate those contracts to the Appalachian Trail Conference. As long as all of the rights of ownership are completely transferred to the Appalachian Trail Conference, you receive a current income-tax deduction, equal to the lesser of your cost basis or the fair market value of the policy (roughly equal to the cash surrender value). Examples of policies that are often no longer needed: • Estate insurance when your estate has been reduced below the taxable level • Mortgage insurance after the mortgage has been repaid • Life-insurance policies with vanishing premiums that haven’t vanished. Popular over the past two decades, those policies are valid assets to fund a charitable gift or charitable gift annuity. Theoretically, the cash surplus from premiums paid in the early years earns enough in later years to pay the premiums. The policy becomes “self-supporting” at that point. However, often the assumed rate of return is unrealistically high, and the premium doesn’t vanish as expected. You can give a new policy to the Appalachian Trail Conference. Many donors would like to make a significant contribution to the Appalachian Trail Conference but simply don’t have the available funds. If you transfer a newer insurance policy, or even purchase a new policy on your life and name the Appalachian Trail Conference as owner, you can achieve your philanthropic goals. For example, you allow the Appalachian Trail Conference to purchase a $100,000 policy on your life, and, every year, you donate sufficient funds to the Appalachian Trail Conference to pay the annual premiums. With this planning, you guarantee that the Appalachian Trail Conference will receive a sizable donation, whether you pass away 10 years from now or live to be 100. By using life insurance, you limit your current outlay to a small, deductible annual gift. You can even leverage this current gift further, by donating highly appreciated assets, such as stocks or mutual funds, to pay those premiums. You still receive an income-tax deduction for the gift, and ATC can sell these assets without paying capital-gains taxes. For more information about planned gifts to ATC, please feel free to contact Christina Auch, director of development, by e-mail at <cauch@appalachiantrail.org>, by phone at (304) 535-6331, or by writing to P.O. Box 807, Harpers Ferr y, WV 25425. It should be noted that the Conference does not participate in so-called split-dollar life-insurance policies, • Business insurance after the business has been sold • Income-replacement insurance after you’ve retired 16 when the donor or other noncharitable beneficiaries receive substantial benefit from the proceeds. SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 Public policy issues . . . continued from page 8 Many people who know and use the A.T. know very little about the organization that manages it. Startzell said that the Conference has to do a better job of telling visitors, local communities, and the public at large about the nature of ATC’s work and about the significance of the Trail as a natural, cultural, and recreational resource. Lastly, Startzell urged Conference members to reflect on those issues and realize that the current organizational analysis was not an attempt “to redefine ourselves as a self-defense mechanism to perpetuate our organizational existence” nor was it merely a ploy “to further drain [members’] wallets and your checking accounts. Our mission is no different today than it has been for the past 78 years: The preservation and care of the Trail and its associated resources, and the education of its visitors, remains as our reason for being, and it always will. But, if we can become a stronger and even more effective organization, we believe the Trail and its visitors will be the ultimate beneficiaries.” Conference officers . . . continued from page 9 V. (Mac) Taylor, Richmond, Virginia; Barbara L. Wiemann, Northampton, Pennsylvania; and Steven A. Wilson, Memorial Gifts May 1 to September 1, 2003 T RAVIS ARNOLD—Larry and Christie Arnold ELLIE BENITEZ—Sandra and George Keefe B RUCE D. CARSWELL, SR.—Mr. and Mrs. James G. Carswell, Park and Mary Dickerson, Glenn and Mary Froese, Bobby and Kelly Hanig, Bill and Madeline Hollenbach, Ernest and Ruth Johnson, Stuart Martin and William Griffin, Sharlene Ogden, and Mary H. Orr RICHARD CLAYCOATE—Robert Sevier HELEN RICHARDSON COYLE—Anonymous donors, Walter and Helen Armbruster, Wilfred and Maureen Billerbeck, Coyle & Kleppinger, Inc., Brendan Coyle, Richard Coyle, Robert and Judith Coyle, Praveen and Chetna Dixit, Beverly K. Friedman, William and Sandra Kleppinger, Manganaro Midatlantic, LLC, Martha A. Richardson, Mr. and Ms. Stephen-Hassard, Thomas and Joan Vollrath, John Wainio, and Steven Zahniser RUTH DOWNEY—Jerome and Ann Redus LARRY T. FITZMAURICE—Peter and Johnnie Bakkum, Glenn and Karen Dedrick, Steve and Karen Dellinger, Michael and Lisa Fitzmaurice, Friends of Mike Fitzmaurice at USAirways, Donald and Brenda Hoffmeyer, I.A.M.A.W. Local Lodge 1725, Sarah B. Kirschner, Carl and Pam Lancaster, Nancy E. Neely, C. J. Poag, Jerry A. Sedlacek and Debra A. Flaugher, Steven and Ann Stolte, Clifford and Lillian Towe, and Victory Mats, Inc. MICHAEL A. MANES—David Campbell ALICE LEE WHITENER MASSIE—Dan and Anna Alexander ANN MCDUFF for a Nantahala Forest shelter project—Anonymous, Dennis L. Fulcher, Sr., Wade and Eugenia Lagrone, APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS Kingsport, Tennessee. Lewis resigned about a month later, citing personal commitments. The position will be filled by the executive committee later this year. Newcomers to the Board of Managers are Evans, Metheny, O’Brien, Paradis, Patch, Taylor, and Wiemann. Elected to second terms were Ahlen, Burkholder, Demrow, Fitzgerald, Henry, Kyle, Lewis, Martin, Skeen, and Wilson. Elected to their third and final terms in these positions were Almand, Daniels, Foley, Graf, Honick, Marra, Rogers, Sherwood, Sperry, and Steinmetz. As former chairs of the Conference, Margaret Drummond of Atlanta, Georgia, Raymond F. Hunt of Kingsport, Tennessee, and David B. Field of Hampden, Maine, also are voting members of the Board, along with David N. Startzell, executive director. Mallory McDuff and Maya McDuff Rosener, Jon Phipps, Guy and Kerstan Ruffer, Kenneth and Joyce Stevenson, and Ultalight Adventure Equipment M ARTY RATHBURN—Mountain High Hikers Notable Gifts May 1 to September 1, 2003 $500–$999 B ANK OF CHARLES TOWN—general support D EER PARK SPRING WATER—biennial meeting (in-kind) E ARTH CREATIONS—general support EQUINOX—Trail-Crew & Ridgerunners (in-kind) LIBERTY GRAPHICS—grants-for-outreach Masterfoods USA—volunteer Trail crews G REAT O UTDOOR P ROVISION C OMPANY —ridgerunners & caretakers Equinox, Ltd.—volunteer Trail crew $1,000–$4,999 A MERICAN BACKCOUNTRY—general support CLIF BAR—volunteer Trail crews MBNA AMERICA—general support NORTH CAROLINA DIVISION OF NATURAL RESOURCES—Rockin’ Horse Volunteer Trail Crew JOHANETTE WALLERSTEIN INSTITUTE—general support S IERRA CLUB—Alpine Rose Campaign VASQUE OUTDOOR FOOTWEAR—volunteer Trail crews $10,000 and above F.M. KIRBY FOUNDATION, INC.—general support L.L.BEAN, INC.—grants to A.T. Clubs REI, INC.—general support 17 TREELINE News from along the Appalachian Trail EPA weakens rules for power-plant emissions wo weeks after a federal judge in Ohio found a power plant guilty of violating federal clean-air regulations, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) announced August 22 it was changing those rules—known as the New Source Review (NSR)—to allow coal-fired power plants to upgrade without installing modern pollution controls. EPA officials called it an attempt to clarify the regula- T tions defining “routine maintenance” and “upgrades.” The Ohio court decision was the first in a series of lawsuits brought against fiftyone power plants alleged to have violated NSR requirements to clean up emissions the next time a plant was upgraded. Some of those lawsuits were brought by the Justice Department in the 1990s. As a member of the Hikers for Clean Air coalition, ATC opposed loosening of the NSR rules, initially proposed by EPA in early 2001. New York Attorney General Eliot Spitzer, a principal in the lawsuits, said he would challenge the new NSR regulations in court in early September. Just a day or two earlier, ironically, EPA agreed in a court settlement with New York-based Environmental Defense to propose new rules to reduce air pollution in national parks and wilderness areas—effective in April 2005. Two days after the Ohio court ruling, The Washington Post reported that, between June 24 and 26 this year, smog monitors near the A.T. in Shenandoah National Park and across the area recorded swift spikes as a mass of polluted air—above federal health limits—moved east from Michigan and Ohio and blanketed the Trail from Georgia to Vermont (see photo, below). One more spike at some monitors that week would A “Code Red” day, with dust and smoke blanketing the East Coast, seen by NASA’s Sea-viewing Wide Field-of-view Sensor (SEA WIFS) satellite, June 26, 2003. (Photo: NASA) 18 SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 Treeline have triggered a rule imposing tougher traffic-control measures on the affected counties, even though the ozone came from other states. Air pollution in the Great Smokies and Shenandoah National Park was cited in late August in a letter to President Bush and Interior Secretary Gale Norton, signed by four former National Park Service directors and 119 other former high-ranking NPS officials. They said that Bush’s “Clear Skies Initiative” cut park professionals out of the analyses and sanctions required by the Clean Air Act, one of several actions they cited in accusing the administration of failing to keep its promises to protect and repair the national park system, of which the Appalachian Trail is a part. “We are growing increasingly concerned that, in your policies and actions, you are not living up to…the ideals described in the mission of the National Park Service, and, most importantly, you are not living up to the intent of the law,” the letter said. The A.T. was not mentioned in the four-and-a-halfpage letter, which Interior spokesman Mark Pfiefle dismissed as politically motivated, “misleading, and inaccurate.” Many of the signers had expressed similar concerns N.C. governor signs A.T. specialty license-plate bill orth Carolina Governor Michael Easley—a Trail supporter as attorney general when the Putnam gravelquarry problem first arose— signed a bill August 14 that permits issuance of a special Appalachian Trail license plate. A portion of the plate fee will be sent to the Appalachian Trail Conference to help pay for projects in North Carolina. The design work is just beginning, but each plate’s “number” will end in “AT.” The trademark A.T. trailmarker diamond will be incorporated. Details on how to sign up for one and a form are available at <www.appalachiantrail.org>. The bill, passed in the waning hours of the North Caro- N APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS lina General Assembly’s session, authorized the special Appalachian Trail license plate if 300 Tar Heel drivers sign up for it. It would cost $50 a year, with $20 earmarked for ATC projects in North Carolina, home to about 285 miles of the A.T. (counting borderstraddling stretches) and more than 3,000 ATC members. State Senator Joe Sam Queen championed the measure, with ATC member Clark Wright a significant instigator from outside the legislature. Queen—an architect who also is involved in many bluegrass music festivals within reach of the Trail—represents a western North Carolina district and lives near Asheville. about undermining the parks in mid-May in a letter to Bush that also went unanswered. Both were coordinated by the Campaign to Protect America’s Lands, a nonprofit organization that is part of the watchdog Environmental Integrity Project headed by Eric Schaeffer, who resigned in March 2002 as enforcement chief at EPA to protest the moves underway to weaken the NSR rules. In mid-September, the National Parks Conservation Association (NPCA) led more than 165 groups in urging Congress to take action to restore air quality in America’s parks. That group, a coplaintiff with ATC in fighting a gravel quarry near the Trail on the North Carolina–Tennessee border, noted that the Smokies park has been on its “most endangered” list for the last five years because of air pollution surpassing even that of some large cities. [EDITOR’S NOTE: See also the article on page 26 about an “ultrarunner’s” plight during a traverse of the Smokies.] Georgia teen-ager dies on Trail in Virginia he Virginia State Police reported that Danita Ritchie, 15, of Gwinnett County, Georgia, died July 2, apparently from medical causes, while hiking with a group of other young people from home and four adults. Ritchie was stricken on the A.T. about thirty miles south of Harpers Ferry, West Vir- T ginia, in Clarke County, Virginia, on the section between where the Trail crosses U.S. 50 and where it crosses Va. 7, in a steep, rocky section known as “the Roller Coaster.” The precise cause of death was unknown, pending an autopsy. Dangerous Pennsylvania highway crossing to be bridged onstruction of a longawaited pedestrian bridge above Pa. 225, on the Trail about seven miles north of the Susquehanna River, began in late August and is scheduled to be finished in mid-October. The walkway, 75 feet long C and 8 feet wide and financed by a “transportation enhancement” (TEA-21) grant from the state, will stretch from cliff to cliff, taking hikers off a dangerous road walk at a blind curve, one of the Trail’s most dangerous crossings. 19 Loop Routes A new ATN feature: Whatever else it has in store for you, the Appalachian Trail won’t throw you for a loop. Unless you’re hiking end to end or have a ride waiting at your destination, you often end up having to retrace your steps. That’s where Appalachian Trailway News’s new feature, “Loop Routes,” comes in. If you’re not wedded to white-blaze-only hiking and are willing to combine the A.T. with roadwalks and other trails, you can enjoy many parts of the Trail as part of loop hikes. Beginning with this issue, Appalachian Trailway News will The B’s of Maine ask volunteer members of ATC’s thirty-one Trail-maintaining clubs to describe some of their favorite loop hikes along the Trail. The hikes described in this series will follow no particular order, and the club members we ask are free to recommend hikes outside the sections of the Trail that their clubs look after. But, for our first installment, we decided to start at the top. We asked Phil Pepin of the Maine Appalachian Trail Club for his favorite loops. And they were, not surprisingly, in Maine. ■ By Phil Pepin Bigelow Mountain Loop is one of Maine’s jewels and is well worth the effort. The Stratton and Bigelow area is rich in history. If you have the ■ Begin at a parking area near Stratton Brook Pond. To reach opportunity, I strongly suggest a visit to the Stratton Area Histhe parking area by car, follow Maine 27 approximately four torical Society. There, you can find historical treasures detailto five miles south of Stratton, Maine, or 3.5 miles north ing the making of Flagstaff Lake in 1949, which sent the two from the Sugarloaf Ski area access road, to Stratton Brook villages of Flagstaff and Dead River to a watery grave and wiped Pond Road. At 0.9 mile from the highway, you will cross the out a former route of the Appalachian Trail. Learn more about Appalachian Trail. The parking area is located 1.8 miles from the Appalachian Trail pioneers, such as Myron Avery and Helon Maine 27. Taylor, as well the workings of the former Forest Service fire ■ From the parking area (elev. 1,253 feet), follow an old road, cross the outlet of Stratton Brook Pond at mile 0.4, and conwatchtowers on Avery Peak. tinue along above the pond another to the intersection of the This difficult, 12.3-mile loop (13.1 miles, if you include the Fire Warden’s Trail, which follows an old tote road bearing climb to Avery Peak) involves a vertical rise of more than 2,850 left at mile 0.8. feet. It’s a challenge either as a long day-hike or as an overnight trip. Don’t underestimate the difficulty: Allow for a full day if ■ From the old road, follow the Fire Warden’s Trail, ascending steadily, until Horns Pond Trail intersects at mile 2.3. you attempt it as a day-hike. A better choice is as an overnight hike, but plan on lots of company if camping at Horns Pond or ■ Turn left on Horns Pond Trail, which climbs steadily through hardwoods, then through a magnificent stand of spruce. It Bigelow Col during the summer. Even so, Bigelow Mountain skirts a beaver pond, with a view toward South Horn at mile 3.6, and then continues a steady climb to the junction with the Appalachian Myron H. Trail at mile 4.7, near Horns Pond. Bigelow Mountain The Horns Pond Avery Peak North Horn ■ Turn right, following the A.T. to Horns Pond Horns Pond Lean-to k So Bigelo t Pea uth at mile 4.9, and past the Horns Pond shelters w Col Wes Ho rn at mile 5.1. Fishing and camping are available at Horns Pond, a mountain tarn. Plan on lots Cranberry Pond of company here and at Bigelow Col (below). Appalachian Trail ■ Climb steeply, using rock steps, up the Horns, Horns Pond Trail two dramatic peaks on the west side of Bigelow Mountain. Pass a short side trail at mile 5.5 Fire Warden's Trail that leads 0.2 mile to the summit of North Horn and an impressive view of Flagstaff Lake Maine 27 Stratton Brook and the mountains stretching to the Canadian border. Reach the summit of South Horn (elev. Stratton Brook Pond 3,805 feet) at mile 5.6. 20 SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 ■ Bemis Mountain Lean-to Second Peak Maine 17 East Peak West Peak APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS Bemis Stream Trail Old railroad grade Elephant Mountain Appalachian Trail Bemis Mountain Loop This loop traverses the Bemis Range, with four distinct peaks and a number of minor ones. The peaks are all open, and there are long stretches of open ledge between them, affording views of the Rangeley-area chain of lakes to the north and most of the major peaks to the northwest. Relatively few people visit this section of the Maine A.T., due to its distance from urban areas as well as the preference of most hikers to tackle the more prominent peaks of Saddleback and Bigelow. This moderate-to-difficult 14.1-mile loop follows rough footway, with roots, rocks, and mud, and includes some steep climbs over ledges and boulders. It is much easier to complete if you use the Bemis Stream Trail as the initial access to the area. It makes a long, yet rewarding day-hike or a fine overnight hike. Either way, you will leave the area with a new appreciation of the Maine woods and the efforts it took to build the Trail through such rugged terrain. ■ Begin the hike at the trailhead for the Bemis Stream Trail. A parking area is located 11.0 miles south of Oquossoc, Maine, on Maine 17, 0.5 mile south of the Appalachian Trail crossing. ■ Bemis Stream Trail is south of the parking area (elev. 2,058 ft.), at mile 0.2. The hike begins gradually, as the route descends to Bemis Valley and then ascends, following Bemis Stream through the valley. This was the route of the Appalachian Trail to the Four Ponds area of Maine before the A.T. was relocated in 1958. Descend to an old railroad-grade crossing (elev. 1,692 feet) at mile 1.3. This is the old Rumford Falls and Rangeley Lakes narrow-gauge railroad, which was abandoned during the years of the Great Depression. From there, the Bemis Stream Trail ascends gradually along Bemis Stream, crossing and recrossing it four times. is St re am Third Peak Be m ■ Follow a long ridge toward West Peak, the high point of Bigelow Mountain. Short, steep climbs with a tangle of roots and rocky footing make this a slow hike. Climb to the open summit of West Peak (elev. 4,145 feet) at mile 7.7, with outstanding views in all directions. Descend on the A.T. into Bigelow Col, where a tentsite is located at mile 8.0. The Fire Warden’s Trail intersects here. You have the option of continuing up the A.T. 0.4 mile to Avery Peak, camping at one of the several tentsites available (water is scarce during the summer months) at Bigelow Col, or returning to the parking area via the Fire Warden’s Trail, for a 12.6-mile loop. Avery Peak (elev. 4,088 feet) offers rewarding views of northwestern Maine and Canada, including a distant Katahdin on clear days. The plaque on the summit commemorates the efforts of Maine native Myron Avery, whose drive led volunteers to complete construction of the Maine-to-Georgia A.T. From Bigelow Col, mile 8.0, descend steeply on the Fire Warden’s Trail, following rock steps. At mile 9.0, you will find a campsite and good water from a stream. From here, the trail descends more gradually and soon reaches the junction with the Horns Pond Trail at mile 10.3. Retrace your steps for the final 2.3 miles to complete the loop. Be m is M ou nt ain ■ Maps—Bigelow Mountain Loop: Maine A.T. Guide/Map #5; Bemis Mountain Loop: Map—Maine A.T. Guide/Map #7. Highlights—Wild and unspoiled woodlands and alpine-zone summits, outstanding foliage change in the fall months. ■ ■ ■ ■ At mile 5.3, near the site of the former Elephant Mountain Lean-to on the former A.T. route, the Bemis Stream Trail begins climbing more steeply toward the ridge of Bemis Mountain. Reach the ridgeline, and the Appalachian Trail, at mile 6.3. Turn right (northbound) on the Appalachian Trail, and begin the traverse. Ascend toward the West Peak of Bemis Mountain (elev. 3,592 feet), at mile 7.3. Continue along the A.T., crossing the East Peak (elev. 3,532 feet) at mile 7.4 and the Third Peak (elev. 3,115 feet) at mile 8.6. Hiking can be slow at times because of the numerous ups and downs typical of the Maine mountains. Pass the Bemis Mounain Lean-to, with a spring nearby, at mile 9.0. Cross Second Peak (elev. 2,915 feet) at mile 10.5 and First Peak (elev. 2,604 feet) at mile 11.4. Cross a series of knobs above treeline, with fine views, and begin descending toward Bemis Stream at mile 12.1. Cross a railroad bed at mile 12.6. This is the same grade you crossed at mile 1.3 above. In the event of high water on Bemis Stream, you can cross on a bridge about 1.0 mile east of here, near the Bemis Stream Trail. Reach Bemis Stream (elev. 1,530 feet), and ford it at mile 12.8. Ascend to the A.T. road crossing at Maine 17, at mile 13.6. Turn right on Maine 17. Roadwalk for half a mile along Maine 17 to the parking lot and the end of the loop, at mile 14.1. 21 t had never dawned on hiker George Zigenfuss that a bullet fired from a rifle breaks the sound barrier—not until a deer hunter fired one at him last January. “I heard this shot, to my left,” Zigenfuss recalled. “The [shock wave from] breaking the sound barrier when the bullet came at me just smacked me in the face. I actually remember looking at the trees to see how much of me had been plastered up against them. With that, I just fell.” The bullet, a big, .44-caliber round fired from an old-fashioned “black powder” rifle, hit Zigenfuss in the lower back as he was day-hiking up a section of the Appalachian Trail in southwest Virginia on a favorite four-mile loop. It clipped off three bony knobs along his spine, bruised his spinal cord, punctured a lung, and lodged near his rib cage. Fortunately, it did not break through the rib cage to his heart. Zigenfuss, 72, a retired Lutheran minister and A.T. thruhiker, recalled the incident recently from his home near Bland, Virginia, where he is still recuperating from the shooting and other health problems. He nearly died from the wounds, he said, and was paralyzed for several days because of the trauma to his spinal cord. He’s walking again, but still has considerable numbness from the hips down. Many Appalachian Trail hikers don’t realize that hunting is legal along large sections of the Trail, including the portion of the Jefferson National Forest that Zigenfuss was hiking, north of Laurel Creek near Bland. Between Georgia and Maine, the footpath passes through a patchwork of different kinds of public and private landownership, some of which forbid hunting, some of which permit it. Hikers, knowing they are on a national scenic trail that is a unit of the national park system, often assume that hunting is forbidden on the A.T. It is a dangerous assumption to make. Hunting is indeed forbidden on parts of the Trail, such as where it runs through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and Shenandoah National Park. And, it is technically forbidden on the 600 miles of the Trail corridor that the National Park Service A.T. Park Office administers. But, except in the big national parks, the corridor is often quite narrow, and hunters on public and private lands along either side of it may not be aware that they are near the boundaries. Other parts of the Trail, such as where it passes through state game lands in Pennsylvania, or in parts of national forests and wildlife sanctuaries, are open to hunters during hunting season. Incidents of hunters shooting near hikers historically have been rare, but Zigenfuss’s near-fatal wounding, and the wounding of another hiker in the Chattahoochee National Forest in Georgia in late 2002, were grim reminders that A.T. hikers should check the calendar before heading into the woods. Hunting regulations are complex and vary from state to state and then often vary from county to county within each indi22 vidual state. Hunting regulations and seasons are now available online for each of the fourteen Trail states. Those electronic guides (in most cases, the same document that is available in print) should be scrutinized carefully to determine precisely how rules apply to a particular part of the Trail. The following chart gives a general calendar of hunting seasons in the Trail states. Of greatest concern to hikers are the large-animal hunting seasons, when hunters are in the woods with guns looking for deer, turkey, bear, moose, boar, and elk. Each of those animals has its specific hunting season and specific days and weapons that hunters can use, but, for the sake of simplicity, the chart combines them. ATC recommends that hikers wear blaze or hunter orange while hiking during hunting seasons; a blaze-orange pack cover is available from the Conference’s store and a blaze-orange bandanna soon will be. Most Trail states require that hunters wear some form of blaze orange, generally a hat and, when hunting for big game, an upper body garment. Zigenfuss figured he was safe enough. He knew the Trail, and he was an experienced hiker. It was New Years Day, the last day of blackpowder season in Virginia, and he was hiking a section of the Trail he knew extremely well—a loop from Laurel Creek up Brushy Mountain on the A.T. and the blue-blazed Trail Boss Trail. “There had never been a hunter there that I’d seen,” he said. “Since we moved here in 1998, I would be willing to bet I have done that section from Va. 615 to the Boss and back seven to eight hundred times, and I had never seen a hunter before.” Since thru-hiking the Trail in 1989, Zigenfuss has taken many day hikes and two long section-hikes on it. After he retired in 1996, he was forced to cut short another northbound thru-hike when he reached Delaware Water Gap, Pennsylvania. His goal for 2003 was to get into top shape again, pick up where he had left off, and hike the A.T. from Delaware Water Gap to Baxter State Park and then along the International Appalachian Trail to the Gaspé Peninsula of Canada. Four or five times a week, he would drive the five miles to Laurel Creek, park the car, and hike either the four-mile loop up to the Trail Boss Trail or a seven-mile loop along the A.T. and the High Water Trail, south of the creek. He went light that day—just a jacket over his shirt and shorts. After parking his car, he started north on the A.T., which begins climbing the slope of Brushy Mountain, leading toward U.S. 52 and Interstate 77 near Bland. “I enjoy the early-morning hours, “ he said. “It’s the most beautiful time of the day, and I like to try to start my day with a hike. It had rained the night before and was slightly overcast, but the woods were clear, with no snow. For the first of January, it was very mild. I started with a light jacket and took the jacket off, because I had worked up a sweat.” SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 -AINE p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p SEP p p p p p OCT p p p p p NOV n n nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop op DEC n n nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop op n n n n n no no no n n n n n n n n n n n n no no no n n n n n n n n n n n n no no no n n n n n n n n n n n n no no no n n n n n n n n n n n n no no no n n n n n n n n n n n no no no no n n n n n n n p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p .EW9ORK p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p SEP o o o o op op op op op nop nop nop nop nop nop OCT o o o o o op op op op nop nop nop nop nop nop NOV o o o o o op op op op nop nop nop nop nop nop DEC p p p p o o o o o op op op op nop nop nop nop nop nop nop JAN p p p p o o o o o op op op op op op nop nop nop nop nop FEB p p p p o o o o o op op op op op op nop nop nop nop nop MAR p p p p APR p p p www.dec.state.ny.us MAY p p p p SEP OCT n n n o o op o o no n n n n NOV n n n o o op o o no n n n n DEC n n n o o op o o no n n n n JAN n n n o o op o o no n n n n n FEB n n n o o op o o no n n n n n MAR n n o o op o o no n n n n n APR n Large game/firearm oLarge game/bow pTurkey/firearm APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS n n n n no no no no n n n n n n n www.dep.state.ct.us/burnatr MAY SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR n n nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop op #ONNECTICUT -ASSACHUSETTS www.state.ma.us/dfwele MAY n n nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop op JAN p p p p p n n nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop op FEB p p p p p n n nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop op op MAR p p p p p n n nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop nop op APR p p p p p www.anr.state.vt.us/fw/fwhome MAY p p p p p SEP p p p p p p OCT NOV n n n n nop nop nop nop nop np np np np np np p p p p DEC n n n n nop nop nop nop nop np np np np np np p p p p JAN n n n n nop nop nop nop nop np np np np np np p p p p p FEB n n n n np nop nop nop nop np np np np np np p p p p p MAR n n n n n nop nop nop nop np np np np np np p p p p p APR n n n n n nop nop nop nop np np np np np np p p p p p MAY SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR MAY www.wildlife.state.nh.us Hunting Seasons 2003-4 6ERMONT .EW(AMPSHIRE www.state.me.us p p o o o o no n n n o p p o o o no n n n n p p o o o no n n n n p p op o o o no n n n o p p op o o o no n n n o p p o o o o no n n n o p p o o o o no n n n o p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p Deer firearm season 23 .EW*ERSEY 0ENNSYLVANIA p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p OCT p p p p p p NOV p p p p p p DEC JAN o o o o o o o o op o o no o o no o no no no no o o FEB o o o o o o o op o o o o o no no no no no no o o MAR o o o o o o o op o o o o o no no o no no no o o APR o o o o o o o op o o o o no no no no no no o o SEP www.pgc.state.pa.us o o o o o o o op o o o no no no no no no no o o MAY MAY APR MAR FEB JAN DEC NOV OCT SEP www.state.nj.us/dep o o o o o o o op o o o no no no no no no no o o o o no o op op p p p n no no o o no o op nop p np n n no no o o no o op nop p np n n no no o o no o op nop p np n n no no o o no o op nop p p n n no no o o no o op nop p p n n no no no o o no no op op nop p p n n no no no p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p -ARYLAND 7EST6IRGINIA p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p OCT p p p p p p NOV DEC o o o o n nop op o no o n n n n o o o o JAN o o o o n no op o o o o n n o n o o o o FEB o o o o n no op o o o o n n o n o o o o MAR o o o o o o op o o o o n n o o o o o APR o n o o o o o o op o o o o n n o o o o o SEP www.wvdnr.gov o o o o o o op o o o o n n o o o o o MAY MAY APR MAR FEB JAN DEC NOV OCT SEP www.dnr.state.md.us/wildlife o op nop nop nop no no o no no no o nop nop nop nop no no no no no no o nop nop nop nop no no no no no no o nop nop nop nop no no no no no no o nop nop nop nop no no no no no o nop nop nop nop no no no no no o op nop nop nop nop no no no no no p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p n Large game/firearm oLarge game/bow pTurkey/firearm 24 A short way into the woods, he passed a hunter sitting down in the woods next to the Trail. Zigenfuss was not wearing blaze-orange clothing, but neither was the hunter. “He was at the base of the mountain,” Zigenfuss said. “I later learned that he was the brother of the man who shot me. I said, ‘Good morning,’ and kept on. “I was thinking about starting out the first of the year like this and looking forward to jumping on the Trail where I left off in 1996 at Delaware Water Gap, then hiking up to the Gaspé Peninsula. I hear there’s a lot of road walking, but I was looking forward to finding out. I was just in there about three-quarters of mile when it happened.” The hunter was farther down the hill than Zigenfuss. He later testified in court that he had seen a deer nearby moments before, looked through his sights and saw white, and fired. “I still find it difficult to believe that it happened—I still get very angry over such absolute stupidity on the hunter’s part,” Zigenfuss said. “I am not a deer. “It hit me in the back, and I couldn’t move my legs. I was too darn mad to pass out, though. I’m afraid that some of the packed-up language came out, language that I threw at the hunter. It seemed like it took him about ten, fifteen minutes before he came out of the woods and helped me.” “I thought I was going to die, because the light seemed to be passing from me,” Zigenfuss said. “Then, I just got so mad about the stupidity of the whole thing that I didn’t lose it. I was conscious, but I couldn’t see. I just yelled at him, and he came out. Thankfully, he and his brother had walkie-talkies, so he called his brother, who went out and got to a phone and called the rescue squad. I never saw his face.” It did not hurt so much at first, Zigenfuss said, but, after about fifteen minutes, the initial shock wore off, and the pain began. “I was in such horrendous pain,” he recalled. “If you were my worst enemy, I wouldn’t wish that kind of pain on you. To this day, I can’t watch those shoot-em- Deer firearm SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 4ENNESSEE www.state.tn.us/twra p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p OCT NOV o o o o op op n n n no nop nop nop nop DEC o o o op op no n n no nop nop nop nop JAN o o o op op no n np no nop nop nop nop FEB o o o op op no n n no nop nop nop nop MAR o o o op op no n n no nop nop nop nop APR o o o op op o n n no nop nop nop nop MAY SEP 6IRGINIA www.dgif.state.va.us n n n no no no nop no n n no n n n no n n n n n n n n n n n n no no no nop no n no no n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n no no no nop no n no no n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n no no nop no no n no no n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n no no nop no no n no no n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n no no nop no no n no no n n no n n n n n n n n n n n n no no no nop no n n no n n n no n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n n np np np np n n n n n n n n n n n n np np np np n n n n n n n n n n n n np np np np n n n n n n n n n n n np np np np n n n n n n n n n n np np np np np n n n n n n n n n n np np np np np n n n n n n n n n n np np np np np n n n n 'EORGIA www.ncwildlife.org www.georgiawildlife.dnr.state.ga.us p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p OCT o o o o n no no no no no no n n n n n p NOV o o o o n no no no no no no n n n n n p DEC o o o o n no no no no no no n n n n n n p JAN o o o o n no no no no no no n n n n n n p FEB o o o o n no no no no no no n n n n n n p MAR o o o o n no no no no no no n n n n n n p APR SEP .ORTH#AROLINA MAY SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR MAY SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR MAY up television shows because I remember the pain—I never realized how much pain there is in being wounded. It gives me a greater appreciation for those Civil War people who were shot by black-powder weapons.” The next few hours were something of a blur for him. He said that one of the first things the responders from the local rescue squad did was give him a shot for the pain, so he never passed out, but he was only vaguely aware of what was happening to him and the people around him. When they spoke to him, he was able to respond, and he was aware of being carried down the mountain, put in the back of an ambulance, then transferred to a helicopter for evacuation to a hospital in Bristol, Tennessee. At the hospital, surgeons were able to stop the bleeding, reinflate his collapsed lung, and drain his wounds. Zigenfuss was in bed for more than a week before he regained use of his legs and began a slow, painful recovery that involved several trips to the hospital for recurring problems with infection in the bullet wound. Eventually, though, he came home, and, after a few days, he bought a walker and began doing leg lifts and laps around the house. “I was confined to the house for a couple of months,” he said. “When I was finally able to go out, I started walking on the road in front of my house and got myself up to about a mile on the road, twice a day. Then, one day, I asked my wife to run me down to the Trail and walked in a tenth of a mile there. I wanted to walk back to where I was shot. Gradually, I was able to stay up longer and longer on my feet and finally was able to walk up to the place where I was shot. That was a mile and a half, up and back.” Zigenfuss had worked himself back up to being able to hike four miles a day when another health problem cropped up, and he underwent a colon resection, which set him back again. “I’m eager to get back out there,” he said. “I need to hike like people need to breathe. But, the whole experience made me very much aware of how absolutely short life can be and that we aren’t neces- o o o o n n n n n n n n n n n n o o o o n n n n n n n n n n n n o o o o n n n n n n n n n n n n o o o o n n n n n n n n n n n n o o o o n n n n n n n n n n n n o o o o n n n n n n n n n n n o o o o n n n n n n n n n n n n p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p p n Large game/firearm oLarge game/bow pTurkey/firearm Deer firearm continued on page 29 APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS 25 REFLECTIONS Into Thick Air We didn’t get any submissions on our announced topic, “Fall Colors,” for this issue’s “Reflections.” Instead, we include an article by Will Harlan, editor of Blue Ridge Outdoors. Will is a competitive “ultrarunner”—one of those dedicated souls who tackle great distances and difficult terrain in a runner’s singlet, shorts, a light pack, and waffle shoes. In mid-July, he ran the length of the Appalachian Trail in the Great Smoky Mountain National Park, from Davenport Gap to Fontana Dam, “to raise public awareness about poor air quality” in support of the Canary Coalition, an environmental organization. He completed the 72-mile section of Trail in about 28 hours. But, as he climbed into the highest parts of the park, where the A.T. follows ridges more than 6,000 feet above sea level, including the high point of the Trail at Clingmans Dome, he suffered a pollution-induced asthma attack that nearly ended his attempt. It was the first such attack he had ever experienced. Breathless Will Harlan 6 a.m. — Davenport Gap y wife and crew chief, Emily, arrives with me at Davenport Gap in the dark. Here the Appalachian Trail enters the northeastern edge of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and here is where I will begin a seventy-two-mile run to promote clean air in these smoggy mountains. I stuff down a few of Emily’s vegan muffins. Then, I kiss her good-bye and begin running the white-blazed footpath. The highest mountains on the entire Trail are found along this section. The first five miles include more than 3,000 feet of elevation gain. I climb steadily through the morning fog, reaching Mount Cammerer around daybreak. M 8:45 a.m.—Snake Den Ridge Trail junction About twelve miles into the run. So far, it’s been almost completely uphill. Many sections of the Trail are choked with vegetation; some sections are so overgrown that six-foot-tall tendrils of blackberry brambles criss-cross the Trail. One thicket trips me and sends me face-first into the rocks. 10 a.m.— Mount Guyot I wind through scenic cloudscapes of the Smokies. It feels great to be so completely alive amid all of this beauty. I refill my water bottles from springs trickling along the Trail and eat my first energy bar. 26 11:30 a.m.—Icewater Spring Ultrarunning queen and good friend Anne Riddle meets me around mile twenty-two and runs the rest of the way to Newfound Gap. In my excitement to see her, I forget to refill my water bottles at nearby springs and run the next six miles parched and dehydrated. But, I don’t really notice. Anne’s good spirits keep me feeling great, and she helps me maintain a comfortable, steady pace. Finally, we reach the Icewater Spring Shelter at mile twenty-eight, where I gulp down cool mountain water. 1 p.m.—Newfound Gap I arrive at Newfound Gap. Supporters and Canary Coalition Executive Director Avram Friedman meet me at the Trailhead and welcome me to mile thirty-one. The bustling parking lot is filled with hikers and tourists, many of whom are milling around the Canary Coalition table. Also at Newfound Gap are Asheville runners Randy Ashley and Scott Bowers. Randy, a two-time Olympic Marathon Trials qualifier, is a running hero Send us your reflections Reflections is where we ask you to consider the Trail and tell stories about subjects close to it and you. The list below notes upcoming topics and the deadlines for submissions. We look for sincerity, thoughtfulness, humor, sensitivity to the privacy of others, and factual accuracy. Because of space limitations, we cannot print everything we receive. We may edit your article—perhaps heavily—to fit our format. Submissions must be typed and double-spaced or submitted via electronic mail (editor@appalachiantrail. org) to be considered. If you would like your submission back, please enclose a stamped, self-addressed envelope. We must wait until the last minute to make our final selections, so we cannot answer questions regarding the status of submissions or provide criticism. We invite you to write on the following topics. Submission deadlines are: Issue March 2004 May 2004 July 2004 September 2004 Topic Winter hiking “Gone fishin’ ” Nature’s classroom Stranger in a strange land November 2004 Bites and stings Deadline December 15, 2003 March 1, 2004 May 1, 2004 July 1, 2004 September 1, 2004 SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 Reflections and a long-time mentor; Scott, president of the Asheville Track Club, is a loyal friend who has helped promote the run and been incredibly supportive of my efforts. Randy and Scott help me prepare for the next eight-mile section to Clingmans Dome, which they will run with me. Emily, meanwhile, spreads a bonanza of fruits and carbohydrates before me: fresh strawberries, peanut-butter sandwiches, soy ham-and-cheese sandwiches, pretzels, defizzed Coca-Cola, and more of those delicious vegan muffins. I reload, relube, and return to the Trail with Scott and Randy at 1:30 p.m. The sun has broken through the clouds, and the afternoon is heating up quickly. 2:30 p.m.—Mount Collins The climb to Clingmans Dome gets steep. At 6,640 feet, it’s the highest point on the Appalachian Trail. Randy and Scott help me run the flats, occasional downhills, and a few of the moderate ascents. I walk the steeper, longer climbs. Along the way, Scott asks thought-provoking questions that keep my mind off the heat and hurt, while Randy entertains us with inspiring stories—and a few lewd, obscene, and outlandish ones—to keep us going. 3 p.m.—Clingmans Dome I’m starting to feel lightheaded, and I notice my breathing is shallow. It hurts to breathe in deeply. I attribute it to the high elevation and keep cranking up the mountain. Unprepared for the ruggedness and steepness of this eight-mile stretch, we do not bring enough water, so Randy runs ahead to Clingmans Dome to get us more fluids, while Scott and I trudge up the Trail. Randy returns with water bottles about a half-mile from the summit. 3:30 p.m.—Clingmans Dome Once at the top of Clingmans, I guzzle more fluids and rest against a spruce tree, trying to catch my breath. Emily meets me there with more snacks, and we briefly discuss our final meeting point, twenty miles ahead at Russell Field Shelter (mile fifty-eight). I restock my pack with energy bars, gels, and electrolyte tablets, but, in my lightheaded delirium, I do not pack the headlamp. Instead, I ask Emily to bring the headlamp to the final resupply point. I’m having a lot of trouble breathing. My breaths are rapid and shallow, and it is difficult to inhale deeply without coughing. With a long downhill stretch ahead, I hope that the lower elevation will alleviate my breathing problems. A group of hikers greet us, and they are very supportive of the clean-air run. “Thank you,” says the female leader of the hiking group. Her words inspire me to get back on my feet. I hobble and wheeze down the Trail. 6 p.m.—Double Spring Shelter Breathing problems have worsened dramatically. I’m breathing really shallow and rapidly, unable to take any kind of deep APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS inhalation. I can’t make it up hills without walking very slowly, careful not to get my breathing too fast. I hyperventilate on a long uphill climb near Double Spring Shelter and have to sit down in the Trail to catch my breath. I’m having an asthma attack. The Smokies’ air-pollution readings register in the orangealert zone on this Saturday afternoon, meaning that it’s literally unsafe to breathe in our nation’s second most-visited national park. The irony of a clean-air run being slowed by pollution-induced asthma is quite fitting. I’ve never had any kind of asthma or respiratory problems. Yet, I am clearly experiencing an asthma attack caused by dangerous levels of air pollution. (Doctors later confirmed that the asthma attack was likely triggered by air pollution.) I check my map and my watch; I’m still thirteen miles from Emily and Russell Field Shelter. For the first time, I begin to doubt my ability to finish. 8 p.m. —Derrick Knob Shelter Wheezing and lightheaded, I stumble into the shelter area to refill water bottles. A couple is cooking dinner over a portable stove near the shelter, and I ask them if they know anything about asthma. The husband is a phys-ed major and offers a brief explanation: Asthma causes air exchange tubes in my lungs (called alveoli) to collapse, blocking the full exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide. Rest, and a shot of albuterol from an inhaler, can restore their function, but continued exercise will likely prevent the collapsed air tubes from rebuilding. In other words, continuing to run is only going to make my breathing worse and, without enough oxygen intake, could cause me to lose consciousness. It wasn’t exactly the pep talk I was looking for. He suggests that I breathe through a wet cloth to help resaturate my dried-out lungs. My sweaty running singlet is certainly wet enough, and it seems to make my breathing a bit less labored and wheezy on the uphills. But, I am still almost nine miles from Russell Field Shelter, with a brutal climb up Thunderhead Mountain just ahead. And, the sun is about to sink behind the mountains. 9:30p. m.—Thunderhead Mountain Slow going. Breathing still bad. Trail is tough. And, in the forest at dusk, it’s difficult to see the path beneath my feet. I stumble across the rocks and trip over exposed roots, occasionally knocking me off my feet and off the Trail. It’s completely dark now. A whippoorwill calls through the trees. 10 p.m.—Rocky Top I finally reach the grassy fields of Thunderhead Mountain and, a few minutes later, the exposed granite of Rocky Top. Stars shine through the gloaming. If I weren’t wheezing and hyperventilating, I might enjoy this peaceful mountain moment beneath the stars. In the dark, it’s hard to follow the meandering Trail across the grassy bald. At one point, I wander off-Trail and accidentally step on some kind of small mammal, which 27 Reflections squeals and scurries into the waist-high grass. I drink the last dribbles of water from my bottles. I try to calculate how far I am from the next shelter, but it’s too dark to read my map. Suddenly, I hear a loud crash beside me on the Trail, followed by a deep growl. I faintly make out the furry outline of a bear. It runs away from me into the woods and growls again. I try to keep calm and stumble onward along the dark footpath. 10:30 p.m.—Spence Field Shelter I can’t breathe. I can’t see. And, I don’t want to jump another bear. So, I plan to stop at the next shelter—Spence Field Shelter—which is somewhere nearby. It’s not directly along the A.T., and I can’t read my map to find it. Nor can I read the Trail signs. Even when I try to Braille-read the wood-carved trail signs using my fingers, I don’t feel any letters that spell “shelter.” I blindly wander the A.T. and the side trails searching for the shelter, but no luck. For the first time, I realize that I could be in a bit of trouble. Exasperated and still hyperventilating every hundred yards or so, I sit down in the Trail to catch my breath. In vain, I spread out my map before me and hope that perhaps my eyes will adjust. After five minutes, I still can’t see anything on the map. My sweat-heavy shorts and shirt stick to my body, and I’m starting to shiver now in the cool night air. Why didn’t I bring my headlamp? Why didn’t I bring matches or a light source? What was I thinking? Somewhere in the dark recesses of my oxygen-starved brain, a light goes on—actually, more of a phosphorescent glow. I suddenly remember that I packed a watch with an Indiglo light button. I dig through the pack, find my watch, and use the illumination to read the map. The shelter—and a nearby spring—are a quarter-mile away on a side trail. I hobble along the rocky trail and collapse on the dirt floor of the open-air shelter—at least a haven from bears and threesided protection from the cool wind. Three college kids are sleeping in the bunks; one of them lends me a sheet. I strip off my wet clothes and wrap myself naked in the sheet. After a few hours, my breathing begins to slow down. I wait sleeplessly for the first signs of daybreak and worry about Emily, who is stranded at another shelter three miles away wondering what has happened to her husband. Sunday, 6 a.m.—Mt. Squires At the first blush of twilight, I slide back into my sweaty clothes and scamper down the Trail. After sitting for eight hours in the shelter, my breathing has mostly returned to normal, and I am running strong. Perhaps I can still finish the run after all. But, all I can think about right now is getting to Russell Field Shelter and to Emily. 6:45 a.m.—Russell Field Shelter I arrive at Russell Field, where three friendly guys packing up at the shelter inform me that Emily stayed the night there and was already hiking back to her car down a side trail. They assure me that they watched out for her and lent her blankets and pads 28 to sleep on. They even protected her from a bear that visited the shelter the previous evening. At this point, my only option is to meet her at the finish, some fourteen miles away. 8 a.m.—Mollies Ridge Shelter I fly down the Trail and power-hike the steep uphills. I’m moving really well. I stop briefly here to chat with a thru-hiker and refill my water, then continue through Devil’s Tater Patch, over Doe Knob, and up the steep, scenic Shuckstack Mountain. Along the way, I see lots of berry-lined bear scat. Once, I’m pretty sure I hear a bear bolting away in the woods nearby. I also see wild boar tracks in the Trail mud. 10 a.m.—Fontana Lake I plunge down the long downhill toward Fontana. About two miles before the dam, I cross paths with Canary Coalition Executive Director Avram Friedman, who had slept in his car and hiked in from Fontana to meet me. He hugs me and is relieved to see that I am okay. I glide down the final two miles along A.T. singletrack and then run the endless 1.5-mile stretch of pavement to the Fontana Dam finish. At 10 a.m. Sunday, almost twenty-eight hours since I set foot on the A.T., I arrive at the southwestern edge of the Smokies and the end of my journey. Afterward, I kiss my teary-eyed wife, who endured anguish and showed courage through it all. Scott, Randy, and Avram are also at the finish to greet me. I’ve learned more in the past twenty-eight hours than any other period of my life. Along the way, I was buoyed by the support of the hikers, tourists, and crew. Though a pollutioninduced asthma attack had slowed—and nearly ended—the clean-air run, teamwork, patience, and perseverance enabled us to successfully reach the goal. It will require a similar kind of dogged determination to clean up our dirty mountain air. I’m confident that the region’s clean-air supporters—everyone from track-club presidents and elite runners to casual day-hikers— have the grit and soul-fire to go the distance. Will Harlan lives in Asheville, North Carolina, and is a member of the grassroots Canary Coalition. For information about the organization and its mission to fight air pollution in the Great Smoky Mountains, see its World Wide Web site, <www.canarycoalition.org>. His account first appeared in Smoky Mountain News. The air that July day exceeded the ozone standard, especially for higher elevations. SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 Keynote . . . continued from page 13 the giant, 13-million-acre Wrangell–St. Elias National Park and Preserve, the largest park in the U.S. park system, could not be saved unless the citizens of this country were committed to that course of action. Nothing is big enough, or remote enough, or secure enough, to ensure its protection without society’s commitment. It was in Alaska that I began to understand Leopold, when he said that “a conservation ethic changes the role of homo sapiens from conqueror of the land community to plain member and citizen of it.” I began to wonder: Is that what it means when we used to talk about the Trail like it was human…, when we used to feel so strongly about our role that we would say, “We are the Appalachian Trail”? Suddenly, I began to ponder whether there was a national park where I could engage myself in an experiment to test the “We are the Appalachian Trail” theory—the theory that mankind could put a place above itself in importance, in the common good. Prior experience told me that if I was going to test Leopold, and the A.T. theory, I needed to go to the Great Smoky Mountains, where the place was recognized as part of a large regional cultural and natural system—the Appalachians. In 1994, I chose to plunk myself down in the midst of pressures from urbanization, habitat destruction, vanishing species, and degradation of air and water. Now, some ten years later, I can honestly say that humans are willing to take a most remarkable journey connecting them to a place where they can see the Earth as a delicate, single organism. For example, significant numbers of humans now see a place in the Tennessee–North Carolina mountains as a wondrous diversity of life existing in one precarious place, where all life rises and falls together. Thank you—thank you to Aldo Leopold, the Appalachian Trail theory, and each and every one of you. Looking back on the Earth from space, astronaut Loren Acton said, “There, contained in the thin, moving, incredibly APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS fragile shell of the biosphere, is everything that is dear to you and all the human drama and comedy. That’s where life is; that’s where all the good stuff is.” Here along the Appalachian Trail, in the Smokies, and all over our great land is “where the good stuff is.” It is home, and what makes it home is all that is connected to it. The fundamental insight is that such places can be enough to get humans to think of the planet as a whole and to see it as home. Like the view of the Earth from outer space, the view from people’s inner space can spark the sense that we are all connected, to each other and to this planet, and have a responsibility for it. So, as you connect with each other over the course of this conference, and as you depart, I hope you will remember that there is a much bigger message contained in the simple words, “I am the Appalachian Trail.” That message is important enough to be carried across the land and around the world. It is a message of values, sustainability, and survival. Saw policy . . . continued from page 11 tification for several years, and most of our sawyers out there are out there with proper certification. They are becoming increasingly comfortable with it. I’m getting less and less complaining from the government management partners, too—they’re more comfortable letting us out into the field, just due to the fact that we have a good certification process. I can see the value down the line, even if it doesn’t seem that way now.” Not everyone bought it, though. “Nothing I’ve heard or read has convinced me that the proposed rules and certifications aren’t simply going to complicate our job enormously, and they may seriously deter the maintenance of the Trail in Maine,” said Maine A.T. Club maintainer Bob Cummings. The proposed policy is posted on ATC’s World Wide Web site, at <www. appalachiantrail.org/protect/policies/ draftpol.html>. It is scheduled to be voted on by the Board of Managers in November. In the crosshairs. . . continued from page 25 sarily in control of things. There was somebody out there that day who decided the movement he saw was a deer and let loose with a shot that could have ended my life. There are other people out there, and they cross our paths. They do affect us. They can affect us in a very beautiful way, or the effect can be disastrous. I believe that it is very important, when the day comes to you, that you drink it fully. It is a gift.” The hunter, identified as Jackie Leon Keen, Sr., 46, of Raven, Virginia, was tried and convicted May 15 on a misdemeanor charge of reckless handling of a firearm. He was given a six-month suspended sentence and forced to forfeit his rifle, and his hunting privileges were revoked for life. He was fined $200, ordered to pay Zigenfuss’s out-of-pocket medical expenses, and ordered to take hunter-education classes. Zigenfuss said that he felt compelled to return to the Trail after the incident because he had to confront the experience and come to terms with it. “I was not about to allow that incident to keep me out of the woods,” he said. “Several doctors told me that if I had not been in such excellent shape from my routine of dayhikes, I would not have survived. Still, I recommend hiking.” He also recommends wearing blaze orange and paying careful attention during the fall, winter, and spring hunting seasons. At the trial, Zigenfuss said the hunter’s lawyer criticized him for not wearing blaze orange. But, the hunter was not wearing blaze orange either, he said, and the lawyer was just blaming the victim. “The gentleman who shot me was convicted, but he wound up with a $200 fine. There is more of a fine if you shoot a deer out of season than for shooting me.” “What it comes down to is that the man did not see a deer,” Zigenfuss said. “He saw something move, and he shot. He did not see a deer. The bottom line is still that it’s the responsibility of the hunter to identify his target and be perfectly sure of it. That’s the first rule of hunting.” 29 PUBLIC NOTICES Hiking Partners Wanted Section-hiker. Companion sought to hike three short pieces in Maine in October 2003. I have the following sections remaining to complete the A.T.: 10 miles in Grafton Notch area, 16 miles on the N.H./Maine border, and 10 miles near Stratton. I have car, and can pay all expenses. Beverly La Follette, 1709 West 39th St., Erie, PA 16509, (814) 868-3005. Public notices are published free for members of the Appalachian Trail Conference. We cannot vouch for any of the advertised items. Ads must pertain to the A.T. or related hiking/conservation matters. Send ads to PUBLIC NOTICES, Appalachian Trail Conference, P.O. Box 807, Harpers Ferry, WV 25425. Deadline for the March 2004 issue is November 15, 2003. Public notices may also be e-mailed to <editor@appalachiantrail.org>; please include complete contact information. Section-hiker. Female, age 55, experienced, looking for one or more females to share hike from Dick’s Creek Gap in northern Ga. to Fontana Dam, June or July 2004. Lorraine Bickell, 2110 Trevor Rd., Palm Harbor, FL 34683, (727) 934-3630. Boots. Montrail Torre GTX midweight, all-leather, GoreTex-lined boots, size 9.5 wide. Brand new, with 25 break-in miles. Popular boot ($150 everywhere), will sell for $95, includes shipping. Tom, (513) 232-8314; <tbx98@yahoo. com>. Florida Trail. Easily compatible male, 32, well-seasoned long-distance hiker, loves to laugh, seeking female partner/s to join me for any section of Florida Trail thruhike between 11/03 and 3/04. Toby, “Son Of Billy Goat,” (978) 827-5494; <tobywoodard@msn. com>. Backpack. Gregory Cassin, internal frame, 7,056 ci, 6 lbs. 10 oz., with adjustable shoulder harness. Includes original descriptive brochure and fitting manual. Also included are three outside attached pockets with rain cover. Condition is good; price is $50 plus shipping. Andy Neill, (630) 416-6465; <hiker0203@aol.com>. Lost and Found Camera. Lost: Kodak (single-use) camera, May 1 near Fontana Dam visitor center; also lost: whistle, small knife, Timex watch, khaki convertible pants. Jay “Jaybird” Swafford, (615) 384-4121; <jayswafford@yahoo.com> Found: Backpacking tent, on the Ga. A.T. between Woody Gap and Neels Gap. Found: prescription eyeglasses, vicinity of Byron Reece Parking/Blood Mtn. Lost: unique hiking stick, vicinity of Nimblewill Gap. Contact: Ga. A.T. Club Ridgerunner John Cavender, <johbar@alltel.net>. For Sale Stoves. MSR WhisperLite Shaker Jet Stove with Maintenance Kit; $35, including shipping. Coleman Feather 400 Lightweight Backpack stove with Outdoor Research #3 foam case; $40, including shipping. Manuals with both stoves. Contact J.T., (706) 379-1793; email <2greccos@brmemc.net>. 30 Tent. Eureka Timberlite 2-XT, two-person, 3 1/2-season tent; 4 lbs., 11 oz.; never used. Cost $140 new, will sell for $70. Lawrence Reichard, 830 N. Van Buren St., Apt. A, Stockton, CA 95203; (209) 467-0289; <ziololo@yahoo.com>. Pack. Gregory Whitney, internal frame, size small, $165; woman’s LaSportiva boots, size 8, $75; Walrus Micro-Swift tent, $85. Contact Possum, (603) 434-0655; <peace@pathofharmony.com>. Boots. Tecnica Stratus Bio-Flex, man’s size 9. Vibram soles, leather-lined, designed for heavy backpacking. Almost new, good condition with fewer than 75 trail miles; $85 includes shipping. Contact Stuart, (615) 893-0985; <stubeckj@bellsouth.net>. Meals. Will sell 57 Mountain House frozen dinners from 1999, various flavors, good through Feb./Mar. 04, best offer. Steve Mitchell, (704) 876-1094. Chair pad. Brand new, never used, blue Mountain Hardwear chairpad, open and closed-cell foam, 60” long, 24 oz., comfy to sit or sleep: $50 & I’ll pay shipping! Toby, (978) 827-5494; <tobywoodard @msn.com> Hostel. Hikers Paradise. On the Appalachian Trail. Unique 4-season hospitality business in the heart of New Hampshire’s White Mtns. in Gorham. Consisting of a 31-bed A.T. hiker hostel, comfortable 14-unit motel, and a cozy breakfast restaurant. Offered at $565,000. Contact 1982 thruhiker “Inching Irishman” (Michael Coyle), at Peabody & Smith Realty, (603) 823-5700. Free. Back issues of ATN, free if you pay shipping and handling. Dates from fall 1988 to fall 2002, 45 issues; weight, 11 pounds. Dick Hurd, 770-664-4770; <alphahurd @mindspring.com>. Wanted Photos. Seeking old photos (before 1980) of Franconia Ridge Trail, showing condition of the trail, for an alpine ecology study. Please send photos to USFS/AMC Alpine Steward Volunteer Scott Monroe, 53 Welland Rd., Weymouth, MA 02188. Books. A.T. Journal by Robie Hensley; Lodgings along the A.T. New England and Lodgings along the A.T. mid-Atlantic, by Kocher; Tecumseh’s Trail: The A.T. Then and Now, by C. Bradfield; An A.T. Sketchbook, by John Hodgins; Boots: Trailing the Appalachians, by R. Reinert. Contact Roger Williamson, (201) 444 2950; <rogermwill@aol.com> Book. Looking to buy, 2000 Miles On The A.T., by Don Fortunato. Contact <Raymond.meyers@ po.state.ct.us>. Maps. Seeking used (but mostly current) set of Florida Trail maps to be used for 03’/04’ thru-hike. Toby, (978) 827-5494; <tobywoodard @msn.com> For Your Information Auction. The A.T. Museum will hold a benefit silent auction at the ALDHA Gathering in Hanover, N.H., on Columbus Day weekend. Examples of items auctioned last year were packs, lightweight stoves, books, and a stay at the Maples in Damascus. Please bring items for the auction to the museum table at the Gathering. For further information, contact <webmaster@atmuseum.org>. Workshops. Long-distance hiking, November 1–3, 2003. For beginner or experienced backpacker who dreams of a long-distance hike. Backpacking skills required for a long-distance hike will be discussed and demonstrated. Workshop will cover everything from purchasing gear to planning maildrops and will include hiking in Monongahela National Forest. By Melody Blaney, cofounder of Wildside Adventures for Women and a 1996 thru-hiker of the Appalachian Trail. Held at primitive Middle Mountain Cabins in the Laurel Fork South Wilderness of Monongahela National Forest, West Virginia. Price: $95. Winterhiking workshop, November 7-9, 2003. Learn how to cross over from a 3-season backpacker to that 4th, cold season; 3-day, 2night trip. We will hike to waterfalls, rock shelters, and two of the largest arches in the eastern United States, all located in the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area in Tennessee. Stay at primitive Charity Creek Lodge, where we will discuss gear, clothing, nutrition, and all other necessities and skills required for hiking comfortably and safely in winter. Price $170. Contact Melody Blaney, Wildside Adventures for Women, (540) 384-7023; <info @wildsideadventures.com>. SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER 2003 Waterville Valley 2003—Clockwise: Members plan hikes and excursions. Getting ready for Franconia Ridge. Checking out the sale and information booths before the meeting. Life members and Board members talk Trail at pre-Conference reception. (ATC photos) APPALACHIAN TRAILWAY NEWS 31 Volunteers register ATC members for the 34th meeting of the Conference in Waterville Valley, New Hampshire, July 26. (ATC photo) Appalachian Trail Conference P.O. Box 807 Harpers Ferry, WV 25425-0807 ® Address Service Requested Nonprofit Organization U.S. POSTAGE PAID Appalachian Trail Conference