Assembly Instructions

Transcription

RetroTone®
Knowledge, Skills, Supplies and Services
A Bust Em’ Out Project
The Original
Late 1960’s Univox Super Fuzz
This is an original Univox Super Fuzz built in the late 60s or early 70s. The Super Fuzz may be the most licensed circuit of all time. Over a dozen
manufacturers have sold this circuit under their brand name on nearly every continent. This is the legendary pedal was used by Pete Townsend
on the album “Live at Leeds.” It is finding favor with contemporary players such as Dan Auerbach of Queens of the Stone Age. The circuit was
designed by Shin-ei engineers in 1968 and enjoys the impeccable engineering evident in all Shin-ei designs. The heart of this clone is the 2SC828
transistors and the OA-90 germanium diodes. RetroTone® offers you this kit as our take on a classic.
RetroTone® Super Fly
Fuzz
RetroTone®
A Bust Em’ Out Project
Introduction
The Super Fly is a fuzz with tons of finesse and innuendo. Many consider it the penultimate fuzz due to
its versatile tone selection. It has garnered a cult following over the years. The Japanese company, Shinei electronics produced this fuzz, with minor variations, from the late 1960’s to the late 1970’s. This
circuit was licensed to many manufacturers and has been produced under many brands all over the
world.
The engineering in this pedal is impeccable. It has stages to produce an octave up and down. It also has
a crazy amount of gain. The unique feature is a 1khz scoop filter to give it a character immediately
identifiable to this circuit.
RetroTone® found a late-60’s original Univox Super Fuzz and reverse engineered it. The Super Fly is the
result. At the heart of this kit are 2SC828 transistors and OA-90 germanium diodes. Care has been taken
with component selection to give you a close approximation to the original Super Fuzz.
This project is for the advanced pedal builder ready to take on a challenge. It is expected that the builder
has a command of component identification, reference designators, soldering skills and test methods.
The Super Fly kit from RetroTone® will give you years of rugged road worthy service when you
successfully complete this build.
©2016 RetroTone, LLC.
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Contents
Introduction .................................................................................................................................................. 2
Bill of Materials ............................................................................................................................................. 6
Specifications ................................................................................................................................................ 7
Required Tools .............................................................................................................................................. 7
Parts Placement ............................................................................................................................................ 8
PCB Assembly ................................................................................................................................................ 9
Overview ................................................................................................................................................... 9
Optional Components ............................................................................................................................. 10
Power and I/O Section Assembly ................................................................................................................ 11
Capacitor – C1 ......................................................................................................................................... 12
Capacitor – C2 ......................................................................................................................................... 16
Resistor - R1 ............................................................................................................................................ 18
Diode – D1............................................................................................................................................... 19
Footswitches – SW1, SW2....................................................................................................................... 21
DC Jack - J3 .............................................................................................................................................. 22
Input/Output Jacks – J1, J2 ..................................................................................................................... 23
LED and Standoff – LED1, LED2 ............................................................................................................... 24
Battery Snap – BATT1.............................................................................................................................. 25
Stage 1 Input Amplifier Section .................................................................................................................. 27
Resistors R3, R4, R9, R5, R6 R7, R24, R13, R8 ......................................................................................... 28
Capacitors C3, C4, C5, C13, C15 .............................................................................................................. 29
Transistor Q1, Q6 .................................................................................................................................... 29
Stage 2 Phase Splitter Section..................................................................................................................... 31
Resistors R10, R11, R12, R14, R21, R22 .................................................................................................. 32
Capacitors C7, C8, C14 ............................................................................................................................ 33
Transistor Q4........................................................................................................................................... 33
Stage 3 Differential Amplifier Section ......................................................................................................... 35
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Resistors R15, R16, R17, R18, R19, R20 .................................................................................................. 36
Capacitors C6, C9 .................................................................................................................................... 37
Transistor Q2, Q3 .................................................................................................................................... 37
Stage 4 Diode Clipping Section ................................................................................................................... 39
Capacitors C10 ........................................................................................................................................ 40
Diodes D2, D3.......................................................................................................................................... 40
Stage 5 Notch Filter Section ........................................................................................................................ 42
Resistors R23, R26, R29, R30 .................................................................................................................. 43
Capacitors C16, C17 ................................................................................................................................ 43
Stage 6 Output Amplifier Section ............................................................................................................... 45
Resistors R31, R32, R33, R44, R35 .......................................................................................................... 46
Capacitors C11, C12 ................................................................................................................................ 47
Transistor Q5........................................................................................................................................... 47
Potentiometer VR24, VR25 ..................................................................................................................... 49
Mechanical Assembly.............................................................................................................................. 51
Testing the Super Fly................................................................................................................................... 53
Trouble Shooting Tips ................................................................................................................................. 53
Returns and Exchanges ............................................................................................................................... 55
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Figure 1 - Completed Super Fly ..................................................................................................................... 8
Figure 2 – Example Reference Designators on the PCB ................................................................................ 9
Figure 3 – Super Fly Assembly .................................................................................................................... 10
Figure 4 - Power and I/O ............................................................................................................................. 11
Figure 5 - Electrolytic Capacitor with Long Positive Lead ........................................................................... 12
Figure 6 - Characteristics of an Electrolytic Capacitor ................................................................................ 13
Figure 7 - Hold the Soldering Iron Tip Under the Lead ............................................................................... 14
Figure 8 - Two Most Common Soldering Mistakes ..................................................................................... 15
Figure 9 - Nicely Soldered Capacitor Leads ................................................................................................. 15
Figure 10 - Ceramic Capacitor Markings ..................................................................................................... 16
Figure 11 - No Polarity Indication for Capacitor C2 .................................................................................... 16
Figure 12 - C1 and C2 Properly fastened to the PCB................................................................................... 17
Figure 13 – Resistor – R1 and R2 Value ...................................................................................................... 18
Figure 14 - Bending Axial Leads .................................................................................................................. 18
Figure 15 - Diode - D1 Polarity Band ........................................................................................................... 19
Figure 16 - Soldering Resistor and Diode Leads All At Once ....................................................................... 20
Figure 17 - Cut Leads After Soldering ......................................................................................................... 20
Figure 18 - Heat Up Footswitch Pin ............................................................................................................ 21
Figure 19 - Footswitch is Flush to PCB ........................................................................................................ 21
Figure 20 - DC Jack Alignment on Footprint ............................................................................................... 22
Figure 21 - Large Holes on DC Jack ............................................................................................................. 22
Figure 22 - 1/4" Audio Input/Out Jack ........................................................................................................ 23
Figure 23 - LED1 Polarity ............................................................................................................................. 24
Figure 24 - LED and Standoff....................................................................................................................... 24
Figure 25 - LED1 PCB Footprint ................................................................................................................... 24
Figure 26 - Battery Snap PCB Footprint ...................................................................................................... 25
Figure 27 – Battery Snap Strain Relief ........................................................................................................ 25
Figure 28 - Completed Power and I/O Section ........................................................................................... 26
Figure 29 - Completed Input Amplifier Section .......................................................................................... 30
Figure 30 – Completed Phase Splitter Section ............................................................................................ 34
Figure 31 - Completed Differential Amplifier Section ................................................................................. 38
Figure 32 - Completed Clipping Section ...................................................................................................... 41
Figure 33 - Completed Notch Filter Section ................................................................................................ 44
Figure 34 - Completed Output Amplifier Section ....................................................................................... 48
Figure 35 – Completed Super Fly ................................................................................................................ 50
Figure 36 - Footswitch Nut Height .............................................................................................................. 51
Figure 37 - Level the PCB ............................................................................................................................ 51
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Figure 38 - Center DC Jack Pin In Hole ........................................................................................................ 52
Figure 39 - Super Fly Completed ................................................................................................................. 52
Figure 40 - Single Hole Dimensions............................................................................................................. 55
Bill of Materials
Ref
Description
PCB Power Pak
C1
Electrolytic Filter Capacitor
C2
MLCC Ceramic Filter Capacitor
R1, R2
Metal Film Resistor
D1
Rectifier Diode
Super Fly PCB Pak
FR4 Printed Circuit Board
SW1
Footswitch
SW2
Footswitch
PCB IO Pak
J1, J2
¼” Input/Out Jacks
J3
DC Input PCB Mount
BAT1
Battery Snap
600-LED Pak
LED1-2
Yellow Light Emitting Diode
0.6” LED Standoff
LED Panel Retainer and Ring
Enclosure Pak
1590BB Enclosure
Adhesive Bumpers
Battery Pad
Super Fly Component Pak
Q1-6
NPN Bipolar Silicon Transistor
D2, D3
Germanium Signal Diode
R21-22
Carbon Film 5%
R34, R36 Carbon Film 5%
R5, R20 Carbon Film 5%
R24
Carbon Film 5%
R10,
Carbon Film 5%
R12,R13,
R17,R26,
R30, R32
R33
Carbon Film 5%
R3, R16, Carbon Film 5%
Qty
Value
Part Number
6
2
2
2
2
1
7
2SC828
OA-90
470 ohms
1K ohm
1.8K ohms
3.3K ohms
10K ohms
4000-0008
0200-0000
0200-0100
0100-0001
1400-0001
4000-0033
1200-0009
0600-0003
0600-0009
4000-0020
0900-0002
0900-0007
0900-0001
4000-0010
1500-0010
1600-0004
1600-0003
4000-0003
1000-0007
1600-0002
1600-0001
4000-0103
0700-0006
1400-0006
0100-0115
0100-0116
0100-0109
0100-0112
0100-0102
1
4
15K ohms
22K ohms
0100-0117
0100-0108
1
1
2
1
100uF
10nF
1K
1N4001
1
1
1
3PDT
2PDT
2
1
1
1
1
1
5mm LED
0.1 x 0.6
1
1
1
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R19, R29
R4, R9,
R23
R6-7,
R15,R18,
R31,R35
R14
R11
R8
C3-12,
C14
C15, C17
C13, C16
VR1,VR2
Carbon Film 5%
3
47K ohms
0100-0110
Carbon Film 5%
6
100K ohms
0100-0100
Carbon Film 5%
Carbon Film 5%
Carbon Film 5%
Electrolytic 50volts 20%
1
1
1
11
150K ohms
200K ohms
330K ohms
10uF
0100-0107
0100-0114
0100-0111
0200-0002
Polyester Film 100V 0.1uF J 5%
Polyester Film 100V 0.001uF J 5%
Super Fly Dial Indicator Pak
Potentiometer Linear Taper, Long PCB
Black Knob
2
2
100nF
1nF
1
2
50K ohms
0200-0202
0200-0203
4000-0203
0500-0041
1100-0002
Specifications
High Quality FR4 PCB
9VDC Input DC Supply
Frequency Response 20Hz- 20kHz
Input Impedance 100Kohms
Output Impedance 5Kohms
Current Draw 7.5mA@9VDC
Required Tools
• 6” Needle Nose Pliers
• Small flat blade screw driver
• Phillips Screw Driver
• 4” Wire Cutters
•
•
•
Soldering Iron
Solder – No Clean Flux - 0.031”
Wet Sponge
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Parts Placement
It is important to place the correct component in the correct location on the printed circuit board (PCB).
This section helps the builder just starting out visually identify the component and how it is placed and
attached to the PCB.
Figure 1 - Completed Super Fly
Each component has a reference designator. A reference designator has one or more letters followed by
a number. This scheme is standard throughout the electronics industry.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Resistors - Rx
Capacitors – Cx
Diode – Dx
Transistors Qx
Connecters - Jx
Switches - SWx
Battery Snap – BATx
Light Emitting Diode – LEDx
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Some components have a “polarity” and must be placed correctly for the component to work properly.
The Transistor, LED, diode, some capacitors and the battery snap on the Super Fly have a polarity. The
photos below show the LED with a clearly marked “polarity.” The flat side of the LED is the “negative”
terminal. The small rectangle on D1 shows the “polarity” for a diode. This terminal is called a cathode.
The small plus sign on capacitor C1 shows the “positive” terminal.
Figure 2 – Example Reference Designators on the PCB
PCB Assembly
Overview
Start with the resistors, capacitors and the diode. These components lie close to the board and can be
difficult to place if there are large components in close proximity. Be aware of the polarity of the filter
cap and the diode.
The footswitches are next. The only trick to these components is to make sure that they are flush with
the board.
Next, place the DC Jack. This component has large holes and requires a significant amount of solder to
fill the holes. It also sits very close to the ¼” input jack. It is very important to make sure that the DC jack
aligns with the footprint pattern on the PCB. It also must sit flush with the PCB. Proper placement allows
the DC jack to align with the holes in the enclosure in the final assembly.
Place the ¼” jacks. Make sure the open end of the connector is facing the outside edge of the board. The
pattern is symetrical so it is easy to put it in backwards (yes, I’ve done it). This must also be flush with
the board.
Put the stand offs on the leds and solder them into the pattern observing that the polarity is correct. The
flat side of the LED is the negative terminal and it must align with the footprint on the PCB. Be sure that
it is standing straight. This is essential to provide proper alignment with the hole in the enclosure.
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Finally, the battery snap leads should be put into the large hole from underneath the PCB then each lead
soldered into the respective hole. This provides a strain releif if the snap is acidently tugged. The PCB is
clearly marked with the positive and negative terminals, as well as, lead colors.
Optional Components
The battery snap and the reverse polarity protection are optional. If you intend to always use your pedal
with a power source on a pedal board you don’t really need the battery snap. The Super Fly circuit is
built from a discrete transistors, you really don’t need the reverse polarity circuit. If you think about it
for a second, the transistors really act as diodes and suffer no dammage from reverse polarity. However,
you can dammage the transistor with over voltage or a poor bias scheme.
Figure 3 – Super Fly Assembly
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Power and I/O Section Assembly
Figure 4 - Power and I/O
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Capacitor – C1
This cap is an electrolytic filter cap. It is designed to short undesirable low frequencies to ground. This is
the low frequency hum that you may have heard before. This gives you reasonable protection against a
poorly designed power supply.
This capacitor is polarized. You must place it correctly for it to work correctly and prevent damage to
component itself. Electrolytic capacitors have been known to explode with reverse polarity and
overvoltage.
Figure 5 - Electrolytic Capacitor with Long Positive Lead
Many electrolytic capacitors have one lead longer than the other. This is usually the positive lead and
must be placed in the hole with a plus sign. You can see this in the above photo. The following photo
shows the characteristics of an electrolytic capacitor. These characteristics are “value”, “working
voltage” and “polarity”.
The value relates to how much charge the capcitor can hold. The larger the value the larger the charge.
The value for the Super Fly is 100uF. This is pronounced “one hundred micro farads”. The working
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voltage must be higher than the voltage that is applied to the circuit. Most pedals run off of 9 volts DC.
This capacitor has a 25VDC limit. This allows you to apply up to 18VDC. I wouldn’t go much higher than
that because we always like to have a margin of error. There is much to know about capacitor materials
and ratings. And, is out of the scope of this document. Check the “How To” section of our website for a
paper on the capacitors RetroTone® uses for all the projects we produce. Beavis Audio also has an
excellent paper that covers capacitors in a more general way.
Figure 6 - Characteristics of an Electrolytic Capacitor
Hold the tip of the soldering iron under the component lead. Heat rises so the lead will heat evenly.
Place the solder on top of the lead. Do not touch the solder with the soldering iron. The capacitor lead
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has to get hot enough to melt the solder so the solder will stick. The solder will melt and fill the hole.
You do not want too much solder. The connection should be shiny and the solder should form sloped
walls and adhere to the edges of the hole. If the solder looks like a blob, then there is too much solder. If
the lead is not hot enough, the solder won’t adhere and you will have a void.
Figure 7 - Hold the Soldering Iron Tip Under the Lead
The photo above shows a good way to hold the tip under the lead. The lead will heat up after a moment
or two. Touch the solder on top of the lead. Try not to touch the soldering iron tip itself. This guarantees
that the lead is hot enough to take the solder. The last thing to note is that you don’t need much solder.
The next photo shows the two most common mistakes when first beginning to solder.
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Keep the soldering iron tip clean. Your soldering iron should have come with a sponge. Wet the sponge
under a faucet and wring it out so it is damp. Turn your iron on and let it come up to temperature. Start
with your soldering iron temperature at 700F to 750F. Touch the tip with some solder and let the solder
blob onto the tip. Wipe the tip on the sponge to remove the solder. Repeat this until the solder is evenly
distributed on the tip. This is called tinning. When you are finished soldering for the day, put a blob of
solder on the tip and place the iron in the holder being careful not to knock any solder off the tip. This
keeps the tip tinned between uses and prevents oxidation. This also effectively increases the life of the
soldering tip.
Figure 8 - Two Most Common Soldering Mistakes
Figure 9 - Nicely Soldered Capacitor Leads
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Capacitor – C2 This capacitor is multilayer ceramic capacitor (MLCC). It is designed to short
undesirable high frequencies to ground. Such as higher frequency radio signals.
Figure 10 - Ceramic Capacitor Markings
Figure 11 - No Polarity Indication for Capacitor C2
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The electrolytic (C1) we placed can successfully short low frequencies but its effectiveness drops off as
the frequencies get higher. Pairing C1 and C2 filters out a broad range of frequencies from the power
supply.
The MLCC capacitor is marked with two items. One is the manufacturer’s mark, in this case BC, for BC
Components made by Vishay. The other is the value marked as 104. What this means is a 10 followed by
4 zeroes. This comes out to 100000. But 100000 what? This value is in pico farads. This is an industry
standard marking. We have all agreed that the value is in pico farads for this type of capacitor. There are
three value ranges commonly used in capacitors this size. “Mili” is not used for capacitors but is shown
here for completeness. They are as follows.
Pico
Nano
Micro
Milli
Engineering Notation
10-12
10-9
10-6
10-3
P
N
U
M
0.000000000000
0.000000000
0.000000
0.000
With all those zeroes and a decimal point, it is much easier to write 0.1uF than 100000pF. This value is
also equivalent to 100nF. These are all equivalent for the value on our capacitor. Some people don’t like
the decimal point in 0.1uF because it can get lost in the document duplication process so they will use
100nF for clarity. 100000pF just has too many zeroes.
Figure 12 - C1 and C2 Properly fastened to the PCB
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Resistor - R1 This resistor controls the amount of current that flows through the LED. The photo
below shows the value of the resistor supplied with your kit. This resistor is a metal film. Metal film
resistors are stable over temperature and are available with tight tolerances. The photo below shows
the value. The manufacturer has designed this code and is not necessarily an industry standard. The 100
is the value, the 1 is the number of zeroes and the F is the tolerance. This resistor is 1000 Ohms with a
tolerance of 1%. You can also call this a 1K Ohm resistor.
Before the resistor can be placed in the footprint on the board, the leads must be bent. It is important to
not bend the lead right next to the package. The lead can break off inside the package or crack the
package. Use your needle noise pliers as shown in the photo below. Hold the pliers tip next to the
package then bend the lead to produce a nice sharp 90 degree angle.
Figure 13 – Resistor – R1 and R2 Value
Figure 14 - Bending Axial Leads
The LED current is determined by Resistor - R1. The more current through the LED---the brighter. The
LED in the Super Fly has current rating of 20mA for maximum brightness. Personally, I don’t like super
bright LEDs in a night club situation. Some of the LEDs are so bright; I cannot see the effect panel. The
current in this LED is 7mA. This is bright enough to see it but not so bright that you can’t see anything on
the pedal.
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Calculate LED current with this equation. (V+ - VF )/ R1. V+ = 9V, VF is the forward voltage of the LED. This
is minimum voltage require to make the LED start conducting. This LED has a forward voltage of
2.1Volts. And, R1 is 1000.
(9 – 2.1)/1000 = 0.0069A or 6.9mA. The resistor to use for maximum brightness would be as follows.
(9-2.1)/0.020 = 345 ohms. This is not a standard 1% resistor value. The nearest value is 348 ohms. 0.020
is another way to write 20mA.
Diode – D1 This diode is used to protect against reverse polarity from the voltage supply. Many times
when you try to connect the battery to the snap, the terminals may not line up positive to positive. This
reverse voltage can damage components. This scheme is controversial in some circles. Placing a wire
across the terminals of a battery causes the battery to conduct lots of current for a short duration. The
wire could heat up and burn in half. The same thing can happen to the diode. When the diode burns in
half, the reverse voltage is applied to your circuit and damages components any way. We have included
a current limiting resistor R2 to prevent this situation. This circuit is considered as optional.
Figure 15 - Diode - D1 Polarity Band
The diode has a polarity. The diode has a white band on one end. This is the cathode. The unmarked
terminal is called an anode. The diode allows current to flow in one direction. Positive current flows
from the anode to the cathode.
Bend the leads on D1 the same way you did for R1. Go ahead and bend the leads for R2 and put both
components in the board. Solder R1, D1 and R2 at the same time as shown in the following photo. After
the soldering is done, go ahead and trim the leads. Use your cutters and trim just above the solder joint.
Try not to cut into the joint itself.
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Figure 16 - Soldering Resistor and Diode Leads All At Once
Figure 17 - Cut Leads After Soldering
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Footswitches – SW1, SW2 All the soldering principles you have learned up till now apply to the
footswitch as well. Hold the soldering iron on the pin of the footswitch to get it hot enough to take the
solder. The main consideration for the footswitch is to make sure it is flush to the PCB. Solder one hole
and make sure the footswitch is flush with the PCB. Solder the rest of the holes being sure that the
footswitch remains flush to the PCB.
Figure 18 - Heat Up Footswitch Pin
Figure 19 - Footswitch is Flush to PCB
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DC Jack - J3 This jack is used to switch between the external DC voltage or a battery. The key for this
component is to make sure it is aligned on the footprint of the PCB. The holes are very large and can
take a lot of solder. The component has a fair amount of movement in the holes. It is also placed very
close to the input jack. Proper alignment guarantees the DC Jack will have clearance with the enclosure
hole. Solder one hole and make sure the jack lines up to the footprint and is flush to the PCB. Solder the
other two holes in the same way.
Figure 20 - DC Jack Alignment on Footprint
Figure 21 - Large Holes on DC Jack
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Input/Output Jacks – J1, J2 Both of these components are identical. Either one will work in
either position. Make sure you solder it in with the opening facing out from the PCB. Solder one hole
then make sure the jack is flush with the PCB. Then solder another hole, and check that the jack is still
flush. Then solder the other holes. Make sure that the connector is flush to the PCB. The opening needs
to align with the enclosure hole.
Figure 22 - 1/4" Audio Input/Out Jack
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LED and Standoff – LED1, LED2
LED1 is another component on the Super Fly with a polarity. Place the standoff on the LED and solder it
in observing that the flat side lines up with the “-“ on the PCB. The LED should be standing as straight
and perpendicular to the PCB as possible. There is a decent amount of tolerance on the enclosure it the
LED alignment isn’t perfect.
Figure 23 - LED1 Polarity
Figure 24 - LED and Standoff
Figure 25 - LED1 PCB Footprint
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Battery Snap – BATT1
The battery snap footprint provides a simple strain relief. The battery snap leads should be put into the
large hole from underneath the PCB then each lead soldered into the respective hole. This provides a
strain releif if the snap is acidently tugged. The PCB is clearly marked with the positive and negative
terminals, as well as, lead colors.
Again, just a small amount of solder goes a long way. The battery snap leads are pre-tinned so try not to
heat the leads too much as the insulation will melt.
Figure 26 - Battery Snap PCB Footprint
Figure 27 – Battery Snap Strain Relief
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Figure 28 - Completed Power and I/O Section
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Stage 1 Input Amplifier Section
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Resistors R3, R4, R9, R5, R6 R7, R24, R13, R8
These resistors are carbon film resistors just like the original Super Fuzz. They provide bias for the input
stage transistors.
R3 = 22K, red, red, orange, gold
R4, R9 = 47K, yellow, purple, orange, gold
R5 = 1.8K, brown, gray, red, gold
R6, R7 = 100K, brown, black, yellow, gold
R13 = 10K, brown, black, orange, gold
R8 = 330K, orange, orange, yellow, gold
R24 = 3.3K, red, red, orange, gold
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Capacitors C3, C4, C5, C13, C15
Capacitor C3 is a metalized polypropylene film. The frequency and value are very stable value over
temperature. Capacitor C4 and C5 are aluminum electrolytic. They are relatively large capacitance for a
small package. They handle low frequencies, such as audio, well. These capacitors are polarized so they
must be placed correctly to operate. The notched end is the positive terminal. The PCB reflects the
shape of the cap.
C3, C4, C5 = 10uF
C13 = 100nF = 0.1uF
C15 = 1nF = 0.001uF
Transistor Q1, Q6
The 2SC828 transistor is a small signal, medium gain silicon device. The transistor can handle peak
currents of peak 100mA and dissipate 400mW. It is the type found in the Super Fuzz we reverse
engineered. Leave some lead length between the transistor and the PCB. This allows you to get a test
probe on the leads.
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Figure 29 - Completed Input Amplifier Section
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Stage 2 Phase Splitter Section
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Resistors R10, R11, R12, R14, R21, R22
These resistors are carbon film resistors just like the original Super Fuzz. They provide bias for the phase
splitter stage transistors. Each resistor has a set of color bands that represent the value and tolerance of
the resistor. Bend the leads just like the LED resistor and diode.
R10, R12 = 10K, brown, black, orange, gold
R11 = 200K, red, black, yellow, gold
R14 = 150K, brown, green, yellow, gold
R21, R22 = 470, yellow, purple, brown, gold
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Capacitors C7, C8, C14
Transistor Q4
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Figure 30 – Completed Phase Splitter Section
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Stage 3 Differential Amplifier Section
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Resistors R15, R16, R17, R18, R19, R20
These resistors are carbon film resistors just like the original Super Fuzz. They provide bias for the
differential amplifier stage transistors. Each resistor has a set of color bands that represent the value
and tolerance of the resistor. Bend the leads just like the LED resistor and diode.
R16, R19 = 22K, red, red, orange, gold
R20 = 1.8K, brown, gray, red, gold
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Capacitors C6, C9
Transistor Q2, Q3
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Figure 31 - Completed Differential Amplifier Section
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Stage 4 Diode Clipping Section
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Capacitors C10
Diodes D2, D3
These diodes have a polarity. The black line on the diode should be lined up with the white line on the
PCB footprint.
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Figure 32 - Completed Clipping Section
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Stage 5 Notch Filter Section
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Resistors R23, R26, R29, R30
These resistors are carbon film resistors just like the original Super Fuzz. They provide bias for the
differential amplifier stage transistors. Each resistor has a set of color bands that represent the value
and tolerance of the resistor. Bend the leads just like the LED resistor and diode.
R23 = 47K, yellow, purple, orange, gold
R29 = 22K, red, red, orange, gold
R26, R30 = 10K, brown, black, orange, gold
Capacitors C16, C17
C16 = 100nF = 0.1uF
C17 = 1nF = 0.001uF
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Figure 33 - Completed Notch Filter Section
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Stage 6 Output Amplifier Section
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Resistors R31, R32, R33, R44, R35
These resistors are carbon film resistors just like the original Super Fuzz. They provide bias for the phase
splitter stage transistors. Each resistor has a set of color bands that represent the value and tolerance of
the resistor. Bend the leads just like the LED resistor and diode.
R33 = 15K, brown, green, orange, gold
R34 = 1K, brown, black, red, gold
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Capacitors C11, C12
Transistor Q5
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Figure 34 - Completed Output Amplifier Section
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Potentiometer VR24, VR25
The potentiometers come with an alignment tab that needs to be removed. It is designed to be snapped
off. It should come off with a gentle twist. The leads on the potentiometer are large and require a little
time to heat up to allow the solder to flow. Be sure the potentiometer is parallel PCB.
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Figure 35 – Completed Super Fly
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Mechanical Assembly
The primary critical dimension when you are ready to assemble the enclosure with the completed PCB is
the distance from the PCB to the top of the nut on the footswitch as shown in the following photo. The
inside nut on the footswitch determines the clearance inside the enclosure and how the DC jack is
centered in the hole. The height is 13/16” or 0.8”. The nut position will determine how level the PCB is
inside the enclosure.
Figure 36 - Footswitch Nut Height
The ¼” input/output connectors provide a pivot point for the PCB. A couple of tries may be necessary to
get the PCB level with the enclosure and square things up.
Figure 37 - Level the PCB
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An indication that everything is lined up properly is the DC jack will be centered in the hole.
Figure 38 - Center DC Jack Pin In Hole
Don’t tighten anything down until the PCB fits right and is level. Tighten the footswitch first then the
Input/Output jacks then the potentiometer last. Check the spacing between the PCB and the wall of the
enclosure to make sure it is evenly spaced. There should be a slight gap between the PCB and the
enclosure. Don’t forget to finish the build with the exterior LED retainer bushing. The interior LED
retainer ring is not used.
Figure 39 - Super Fly Completed
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Testing the Super Fly
Turn the volume knob down all the way. Insert the DC jack or install a battery. Insert a guitar cable into
the input jack. This connects the DC ground to complete the circuit to the LED. The LED will not
illuminate without a cable plugged into the input. Either the yellow LED should illuminate or the LED will
be off. Step on the footswitch to get the LED to come on.
Plug in the output cable and connect to your amplifier. Turn up the volume knob slowly while
strumming your guitar. The volume should get louder as you turn the knob. Watch out because the
pedal packs a volume boost punch. Step on the foot switch and the LED should go off and the guitar
volume should return to normal.
Trouble Shooting Tips
LED does not illuminate
No sound at all
Is the LED properly oriented in the PCB?
Is the input cable making good contact to complete the ground?
Does the DC Jack have a center ground?
Is the battery snap wired to the proper terminals on the PCB?
Are all the pins of the input jack soldered to the PCB?
Is the transistor properly oriented in the PCB?
Are all the resistors and capacitors soldered to the PCB?
Are the output cables making good contact with the jack?
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Figure 40 - Single Hole Dimensions
This drawing may not be to scale.
Potentiometer clearance hole 0.2953” = 7.5mm
Returns and Exchanges
Log into your account, find the original order and follow the online instructions to start the RMA process.
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Parts that are defective or parts that are missing from the kits will be replaced up to 30 days from the date of
purchase. Include the defective/missing part numbers in the comments field during the RMA process.
We will gladly accept the return of kits for a full refund for 15 days from the date of purchase.
•
•
•
•
•
•
The buyer is responsible for return shipping on all returned orders.
Returned orders that do not have an RMA number will be declined.
Orders returned that are not in the original packaging will be charged a 15% restocking fee.
Orders returned that are not in the original packaging and missing parts will be declined.
Orders that have been used (the assembly process has been started) cannot be returned for any reason.
Partial refunds are not allowed.
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Assembly Instructions

Transcription

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