MBW Walk magazine 1963 - Melbourne Bushwalkers

1963
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CWalk
A
OF
JOURNAL
THE
MELBOURNE
BUSHWALKERS
NUMBER FOURTEEN
1963
CONTENTS:
*
BY THE PEOPLE 'l .... ....
Editorial
3
WALKING THE DIVIDE
R. Taylor ................ 4
THE BEST LAID PLANS ....
V. Goldsmith .. .. .. .. .. .. 7
LAKE MOURNPOUL
D. Hills .................... 11
BLACKFELWW RELICS ....... .
J. Attridge ................ 13
MAFEKING TO MT. WILLIAM
F. Halls ....
.... 17
THE LATE STARTER ....
A. Bennett
.. .. 20
HOW IT ALL STARTED ....
"Wyatt'' .... ....
.... 22
MAP READING WEEK-END
"Nong-Nong" ....
.... 24
END OF THE TRACK-Mrs. R. Bennie ....
.... .... .... .... .... .... 24
A WINTRY WALK IN THE NORTH-EAST
"Cadoo" ....
.... .... lS
AUTUMN WALK TO MITCHELL'S ............ Pam Walter ................ 29
DANGEROUS SUMMER .... ..
R.M. .... ....
.... 31
KOSCIUSKO COMPARISONS
N. Richards ... . .... .... 33
SPICE OF LIFE .... .... .. .. ....
G. Errey .. .. .... .... .... 36
M.L.V. .................... 37
CARLISLE'S STABLES ...
ELEMENTS OF MAP READING .... .... .... .... .... W. Thompson
.... 38
NEW MAPS.
.... 40
LYREBIRD
..................................... . A.B.
.... 41
BOOKS FOR THE BUSHWALKER ........... .
........ 42
BUSHWALKING . .. .... .... .... .... ... .
L Taylor
.... 45
FIXED CAMP - PARKER RIVER ... .
D. Pocock ....
.... 48
MOUNTAIN MUSTER .. . .... .... ... .
50
THE WHY OF KEEPING WARM ....
54
WALKS SECTION:
Narrabarba - Mt. Nagha - Genoa Bridge
Tali Karng and Bennison Plains .... .... .... ... .
Taradale - Fryerstown - Castlemaine ... .
Sugarloaf - Disappointment - Toorourroog
Warburton - Donna Buang Millgrove
Golden Pt. - Blue Mt. - Barry's Reef ....
Killara - Warramate Hills - Tarrawarra
Blackwood - Old River - Darley Ford ...
Walks in Geelong Area ........... .
............................
* *
COVER: WILSON'S PROMONTORY
55
58
62
63
64
64
65
65
68
.... Photo by John Brownlie
Clyde Press, 608-610 High St., Thomburr
The
Melbourne Bushwalkers
OFFICE BEARERS, 196:Z.63.
President:
BILL THOMPSON
Vice-Presidents:
DORA HILLS
Bon. Treasurer:
ARTHUR WHYTE
FRED HALLS
Bon. Seeretary.
ROB. TAYLOR
Bon. Walks Seeretary:
Bon. Social Secretary:
DOUG. POCOCK
JIM HESTER.
Wilkinson Lodge Manager: JOHN CHENNELL.
General Committee:
GRAHAM ERREY
JENNY MILNER
ATHOL SCHAFER
JOAN SKURRIE
JOHN SISEMAN
MARGARET VAHLAND
ALAN BENNETT
Sub-Committees:
Walks: JIM HESTER, JOHN SISEMAN, FRED HALLS, JENNY MILNER.
Financial: ARTHUR WHYTE, BILL THOMPSON, ROB. TAYLOR.
Social: DOUG. POCOCK, JOAN SKURRIE, JENNY MILNER, MARGARET
VAHLAND.
News: ATHOL SCHAFER, DORA HILLS, JOAN SKURRIE.
Magazine: GRAHAM ERREY, ALAN BENNETT.
Equipment Officers: BARRY SHORT, JOAN SKURRIE.
THE MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS:
Room 110, Victorian Railways Institute,
Railway Building,
Flinders Street, Melbourne, C.l.
(Open every Friday evening from 8 p.m. to 10.30 p.m.)
CLUBROOM:
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Distribution:
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educational recreation.
PATRONISE OUR ADVERTISERS!
WALK could not be published without the assistance of our advertisers,
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patronise them whenever possible, and so help us to continue our efforts in
publishing this magazine.
Page Two
WALK
Editorial:
~\1 the 'l'eopLe 1
Lincoln spoke of Government of the people, by the people, for the
people, and the principle has come to be accepted as the essence of democracy.
The practical achievement of such an ideal, however, is virtually impossible,
especially in the present state of human development. To realize even a
working approximation of it some means must be found to keep claimant
majorities and pressure groups in check, and allow some rights and privileges
to those who wield neither the bulldozer of overpowering numbers nor the
coercive power of a loud, strident and insistent voice.
These thoughts are evoked by recent announcements regarding the management of the Wilson's Promontory National Park, and the setting up of a
scheme of control for the Mt. Hotham area. The former is vested in the
National Parks Authority, and the proposal to build a motel (or hotel) in some
part of it has caused a vigorous Press controversy. Undoubtedly, much is
to be said for and against the proposal, either in its present form or in any of
the numerous forms suggested by newspaper correspondents. However, the
present system under which vested sectional interests and the Authority (essentially a Government administration) reach a substantial stage of agreement
before any possible opposing parties are even aware that any proposals exist,
can only lead to one-sided proposals, with consequent ill-informed and acrimonious discussion. There should be some means of ensuring that possible
differing views are considered while the proposals are being formulated.
The Victorian National Parks Association is one organisation devoted
solely to the interests of the parks, yet even they must wait on Press announcements for their information. Other organisations not specifically devoted to
National Parks, but having some interest in them, are in a hopeless position if
ever those interests need protecting.
The setting up of a Hotham tourist area has further emphasised the trend
to ready-made control by rigidly selected committees. Although probably one
of Australia's most notable outdoor areas, the only outdoor leisure activity
represented is, as usual, skiing. It is right that they should be represented; but the
Government should start also to look beyond, and ensure that a leavening of
other interests is injected into each committee it appoints. Any lack of
numerical strength of supporters of such interests is irrelevant. The best
interests of the country demand that all views be given equal hearing. and
virtue is notoriously unrelated to numbers. Obviously all interests cannot be
represented on all committees; but even partial representation would create
a channel through which differing views could be aired. The Hotham committee
would have been a good one to start with as it is almost certain that, individually, more people visit the area sightseeing, bushwalking and touring than
go skiing there. There should have been a better way of ensuring that delegated Government control is increasingly made 'Government by the people, for
the people.'
WALK
Page Three
'l.Oalkin~ the ':Di"ia~
-RETRACING OLD STEPS
Robert Taylor
When looking at sketch maps of the Victorian Alps I have always
been fascinated and attracted by that tenuous twisting line that marks the
Great Divide. The Great Dividing Range in a broader sense, of course, refers to
all the mountainous country stretching up the south-east coast of Australia.
However, most sketch maps of the Alps show one particular line of ridges and
peaks as being "the divide," and it was along part of this divide that we
planned to walk during the Christmas-New Year period, 1961-1962. This
particular divide runs generally north-east in the Victorian alpine region and
contains some of the most attractive ridges and peaks in the State. Unfortunately,
as we were to discover to our discomfort, much of it is also extremely dry.
The trip that was planned was, to a considerable extent, the same as that
done by a party from our club many years ago (see Walk No. 1) and we
hoped to benefit from their experiences. However, these turned out to be
of little benefit to us because of the extreme differences in the weather experienced
by the two parties-an indication of the unpredictability of weather in the
Alps.
The first peak on that part of the divide which we planned to traverse
was Mt. Selma, near Woods Point. From Mt. Selma the divide leads north
to Mt. McDonald, swings east past the Nobs to Mt. Clear and then continues
northward to its hub, Mt. Howitt. Here we planned to leave the Divide and
cross to Mt. Stirling and Mt. Buller via the Stanley's Name Spur.
The party of six (Val Goldsmith, Alan Petschack, David Morris, Roger
Caffin, Lance Taylor and the writer) left Melbourne early on the morning of
Boxing Day, and the train trip to Moe was followed by a pleasant taxi ride
(at least for those in the leading taxi) through Walhalla to near Woods Point.
After a short lunch we covered the seven miles to our camp site in a saddle
just east of Mt. Selma. The camp site itself was attractive but, alas, the long
steep drop to water deterred us from all but the most limited ablutions. The
next day along Forest Commission gravel roads was made more pleasant by
kindly "truckies" who carried our rucsacs several miles for us. That evening's
camp site was near Mt. Shillinglaw. The next day saw us camped early in the
afternoon by a small crystal-clear brook on the broad, bulky summit of Mt.
Skene. From the northern edge of the summit plain we could observe clearly
most of the ridges we were to traverse for the remainder of the trip. To the
majority of the party, inexperienced in alpine walking, this was somewhat
frightening. That evening the combination of sunset and rainstorm in the west
provided a fitting conclusion to a fine day. Just as well; the next day was
to prove one of the most trying.
By eight o'clock the following morning we were dropping steeply off Mt.
Skene, and the distant peaks of Buller and Stirling slipped out of view, not
to reappear until Mt. McDonald. Peter's Gorge proved to be more formidable
than expected and it was a very dry and exhausted party that commenced the
steep, long drop to the Low Saddle at seven in the evening. Add to this picture
an area notorious for its difficult navigation and you have the picture of a very
worried leader. At the time when cricket umpires call a halt to play came the
"coupe de grace." A mis-step, a twisted angle, heat exhaustion and a bivouac
less than halfway down to the Low Saddle. It was only by sheer luck that
a couple of small pools of water were found after following down a dry gully
covered with stinging nettles for several hundred yards. That night the worries
of leadership, contours of bivouac site and intense reaction to stinging nettle
made sleep impossible,
Page Four
W A L K
As our itinerary had allowed for a spare day, and because of the state
of the party and the prospect of a long, dry climb to Mt. McDonald, it
was decided to rest the following day at the bivouac site. The lack of clean
water and the inexorable attacks of the March flies didn't make for the most
pleasant of rest days. However, it served its purpose because it was a rested
party that completed the drop to the Low Saddle and commenced the climb
to McDonald the following morning. By carrying well-filled water buckets
we hoped to keep our full water bottles for the afternoon. The rest day, the
early start and the extra water paid dividends because the three thousand foot
climb on to the ragged, windswept McDonald was completed by lunchtime.
The view was impressive; to the north, the dark brooding bulk of The Bluff
brought back memories of an even longer, drier and steeper climb two years
previously. To the east, the black parallel striations of the rows of cliffs on
the side of Mt. Clear made a neat contrast to the otherwise green mountain.
Beyond Clear the intense, sharp-edged, puffy-white clouds seemed anchored to
the pale blue horizon. From McDonald the main divide takes an easterly turn
past the Nobs before continuing north to Mts. Clear and Howitt. The third
saddle past the Nobs was to be our camp site that evening, New Year's eve.
"No's 1 & 2 DIVIDE"
-R. Taylor
What a New Year's eve it turned out to be! Upon arriving no amount of
searching produced the water promised by the track notes. With only about
two pints of water between six people we had to resort to drastic measures.
A drop of several hundred feet brought us to some mossy cliffs and just on
sunset we returned to camp with about four pints of moss juice. That evening
biscuits, cheese and STRONG tea was the bill of fare. The next known water
was a soak near the summit of Clear, and with an early start we planned on
being there in about two to three hours. However, we underestimated the
weakening effects of dehydration and the heat of the early morning sun; after
a couple of hours' slow progress it was obvious that at least one member
couldn't go much further. While the rest waited and formulated plans of action
in the event of there being no water on Clear, two of us plodded (no other word
so aptly describes our progress) on to Clear in search of water. The turning
WAlK
Page Five
point had
somewhat
When the
dulged in
been reached; the soak, although small, was running and it was two
bloated walkers who commenced the long trek back to the party.
others had recovered sufficiently we all moved on to Clear and inan orgy of drinking and, to a lesser extent, washing.
Our camp site that night was to be Weirs, an old cattleman's hut site,
supposedly with plenty of water. But . . . just in case, we carried two full
water buckets from Clear. Weirs proved to be a lovely camp site - a large
opening among the snow gums on a broad plain, somewhat similar to the
Snowy and Howitt plains further east. The creek was quite large and from
here we were to experience no further difficulties with water. The next morning
we met a recently made jeep track in Waterhole Saddle. This kept to the western
side of the divide and passed just below the peaks of Numbers One and Two
Divides. Number One provided a magnificent central view of the area. Soon
after Number One Divide, or to give it its more romantic name, King Billy,
we parted ways with the jeep track; it swung west to Mt. Lovick, while we
followed the foot pad east to Mt. Magdala, Mt. Howitt and Macalister Springs.
HELL'S WINDOW -
MT. MAGDALA
-R. Taylor
Away early the next morning we traversed the beginning of the Crosscut Saw
and then did a tricky rock scramble down to the low level Stanley's Name Spur
Stanley's Name Spur is one of those ranges with innumerable small peaks
which aren't sufficiently high to gain recognition on the map, but which certainly
make their presence felt to the tired bushwalker, so that it was a jaded party
which reached Stanley's Name Gap in the late afternoon. A quick council was
held and it was decided to abandon our attempt to get to Mt. Buller by the
following lunchtime, where we had arranged to meet our transport. Instead,
two of the boys hitched into Mansfield the following morning in the hope of
getting our taxi driver to meet us at Woollybutt Saddle. Unfortunately, they
arrived just after the taxi had left so that we had to hitch into Mansfield on
the timber jinkers-an interesting experience, especially for anyone interested
in the intricacies of gears, clutches, gear ratios, &c., &c.
The walk finished in Mansfield, like all good walks should-with steak
and eggs, and malted milks. The trip can be heartily recommended as a good
alpine walk, with the proviso that it only be attempted after a wet seasonor at least an average season.
Page Six
W A L K
Val. Goldsmith.
It was a beautiful Plan, evolved after hours of hard thought and stewing
over the maps. It coped with all the problems-how best to use the six days
provided by the proximity of Anzac Day to Easter; how to overcome the dryness
of the usual water sources, caused by the extremely dry winter of 1961; and
how to arrange return transport from a difficult spot. It took us up the Bull
Plain Spur, gave us a side trip to Mt. Clear with the double objective of
admiring the views and collecting water, then took us up to Mt. McDonald,
down to the Low Saddle, up to the head of Sunday Spur, down this spur
to the Jamieson River at Mitchells and eventually along the river to Jamieson.
The first part went well enough, our hired bus was waiting at Heyfield
station and at some late hour we were churning along the road towards Glencairn. There is now a forestry road from here and it goes most of the way
along the Bull Plain Spur-rather disappointing as we had been looking forward
to the walk ever since reading about it in WALK, 1955. However, we com·
promised and had the bus drop us at a spot about nine miles from Glencairn.
MT. CLEAR
-G. Coutts
It had been a late night so it wasn't an early start and although the road
made easy walking it was lunch time before we reached the place where the
Bull Plain Spur joins Mountain Ash Spur-at present the site of a small logging
camp and tree graveyard. Here we collected water for the night, then continued
on the road up the spur and along to Grimmes Saddle. We had been glimpsing
views to the west and soon we came to a break in the trees which enabled us
to trace out our proposed route-the southern fall of McDonald, the ridge
from it leading to the Low Saddle and the bulky head of Sunday Spur behind.
This is one of the thrills of the mountains-to be able to look to where you
are going, or look back over where you have been. When the road dropped
away on the eastern fall we decided to keep to the jeep track on the ridge
ahead, this soon ended in a pile of fallen timber. By 4.30 it was obvious that
the light would not last much longer, so as we were then in a reasonable saddle,
we decided to accept it as camp. Ahead slightly to the east we could see the
white rocky ridges of Mt. Clear gleaming in the setting sunlight-but we were
about two hours further from it than The Plan allowed!
WALK
Page Seven
············----------------------···········------~
Boots for the Bush !
BUT
I
SHOES
for
FASHION
®nlu t4c H1finnk"
is tQxpcusilic
••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
Page Eight
W A L K
After steadily climbing along the well defined ridge which leads over the
two Knobs, we reached the junction with the east-west ridge and set up camp.
By now we were almost one half day behind schedule. But we had no water
and knew that Mt. Clear was the nearest source, so we had no choice but to
go there. It was a beautiful trip with extensive views down the Jamieson Valley,
which is overlooked by the abrupt McDonald, the jagged Ea$les Peaks, the
bulky Governors and the gentle side of the Bluff. The track 1s well defined
WALK
Page Nine
for most part but there are a few traps-and we fell into them, spending
precious time floundering amongst the side spurs, so that it was already 3 p.m.
by the time we reached the summit. A drop down the western face revealed
that our life-saving spring was nearly dry ! Barry sat to patiently catch the drops
while four more hardies volunteered to go on to the next known source at Weir's
Hut site. The rest of us headed for home, which we finally reached at 8.15 p.m.
We decided that the hardies would not try to get back that night, but would
bivouac somewhere-but we were wrong. They had discovered a jeep track at
the foot of Mt. Clear-this apparently was an extension of that from the Lovick
direction, and this had led them straight to the water, which was fortunately
running strongly. They returned to Clear as the sun sank and the full moon
rose, stocked up on their meagre rations whilst telling spooky stories inspired by
the movement of the clouds across the moon, then headed for camp-which they
reached at midnight. Quite a sterling effort and one much appreciated by those
who had been on a water ration for far too long.
For the next day The Plan said that we were to reach a small creek close to
the top of Sunday Spur, but as there was a good chance that this could also be
dry, it might be necessary to go the extra distance and drop right down to
the Jamieson River-a full day under any circumstances. The unexpectedly
strenuous day to Mt. Clear had made most of the party tired, so it was by
general agreement that this idea was abandoned. But what would we do ? We
couldn't stay at this spot as we hadn't enough water. And so Plan No. 2
evolved. This was to drop down the steep northern face of Mt. McDonald to
the river and the Upper Jamieson hut, climb via Lickhole Gap to the Governors,
pick up a jeep track going south to Mitchells, then proceed as before to Jamieson.
After eating a hearty and unusual breakfast and rationing out the remaining
drops of water, we set off along the very pleasant ridge which leads to Mt.
McDonald. As we neared the top a few of the party tried sidling around the
bumps but they soon decided that the ridge was easier. At the cairn a grand
consultation took place as to which spur was the best for the descent. The rock
faces on the spur which drops from the cairn looked formidable from that
angle, this largely influenced us to walk along to the western end where we chose
the spur dropping from there. Also this western spur did not appear to swing
much and had no apparent side spurs, so we thought that we should be able
to keep to it fairly well. Later, we learnt that the eastern spur is the one usually
used-if you are lucky it will take you straight to the Upper Jamieson hut.
The rock faces are quite easy to negotiate.
However, we set off on our chosen spur, it was steep but quite manageable.
At one stage a grey object resembling a rock flashed past-it was Julie's pack
which was gallantly saved by a small bush-sighs of relief. One of the party
was not used to this sort of country and found it rather hard, so progress
was slow. As we dropped lower we did somehow lose our spur and become
involved with side spurs-so altogether we were not surprised to find that it was
nearly dark and we were still not at the river. Fortunately we had heard the
trickle of water so at least our bivouac would not be a dry one. A fern gully
provided a slightly less sloping area, the lyrebird mounds a few clearings, the
night was fine with only a little dew-so conditions could certainly have been
much worse.
Next morning, with cries of joy, we reached the river. This was so low
that we could walk along it and keep out feet dry. By 10.30 the whole party
had reached the hut for the conference-if we adhered to Plan 2 we ran the
risk of another rationed water camp. This thought brought forth the almost
unanimous decision to spend that night near the hut-and so evolved Plan No. 3.
That was a wonderful day of sun and peace-and plenty of water.
Next morning John and Peter, our two couriers, streaked off via Lickhole
Gap for Frys on the Howqua, to phone through to Mervin the change in the
transport rendezvous. The rest of us followed at our own pace-the track was
well graded and enjoyable and through the afternoon we walked into the
autumn tinted Howqua valley, there to enjoy our last camp in the most
amazingly beautiful Easter weather for years.
Page Ten
W A L K
~ake ~ournpoul
Dora Hills.
In north-western Victoria, about forty miles south of Mildura, at the
junction of the Calder and Murray Valley highways, is the small settlement
of Hattah. We stopped there to get petrol and information about the nearby
lakes area. Petrol was no trouble, but very little information was offered until
it became quite clear that our interest was to observe birds and animals, not
to shoot them. This reluctance was more readily understood when our informant told us how he had tamed an emu, which roamed freely about the
settlement becoming one of the local "characters." One Christmas morning
the occupants of a car passing down the highway saw the emu, pulled up,
shot it, and drove on.
PELICANS
-Courtesy N.R.C.L.
The entrance to Lake Hattah is from the Murray Valley highway, a
few miles east of the junction. We contacted a man living near this lake,
from whom we learnt a lot about the area. On his advice we drove a further
four and a half miles to Lake Mournpoul, along a sandy track, very loose in
places. The drill is to drive in second gear and keep in the wheel-tracks, and
when you do get stuck, as we did once, lay a row of sticks across the paths
of the wheels.
We reached Lake Mournpoul in the late afternoon and immediately fell
under its spell. It is one of the larger lakes, almost circular, fringed with beautiful
red gums. The surrounding country is mostly mallee scrub, with extensive
sandhills and poor vegetation, so that the sheet of water and the giant gum
trees make a striking contrast. The surface of the lake was almost covered by
a multitude of birds. Any sudden movement or noise would cause much
commotion, great flocks taking to the air and flying to safer regions of the
lake. Ducks and swans were the most predominant, but we also saw, on the
WALK
Page
Eleven
water or feeding at the edge, dab-chicks, herons, spur-winged plovers, mudlarks, ibis, shags, and, most exciting of all, pelicans. These were fascinating to
watch, both on the water and in flight, silhouetted against the sky. They kept
well away to begin with, but by the second day were corning closer. We got up
early to watch the dawn break over the lake on a perfect morning. The birds
were all sleeping on the water, heads tucked in. First to wake were the small
ones, dab-chicks and little ducks, while the sleepy heads were the swans,
some of which were still dozing after the sun was well up.
It was very hot, although only September, and later in the morning we
were lying in the shade under the trees, half asleep after the early rise, when
we saw three emus quite close. Unfortunately, a movement frightened them,
but after a while we picked them up with binoculars further round the lake,
and later saw several other groups corning down for their mid-day drink.
In the red gums there were many other species of birds, galahs, parrots
and cockatoos, including the Major Mitchell parrot and the Murray River
Rosella, kookaburras, and, of course, crows and magpies. We saw a lot of
kangaroos moving, and found one sleeping in the shade of a weeping acacia in
the flood-plain country. The Lowan can be found in the rnallee scrub, while
goanas and lizards are around, but we did not see any of these.
The area in which we were is the Kulkyne State Forest, the western part of
which is now the Hattah Lakes National Park. In the area are about seventeen
lakes, fed from the River Murray by the Chalka Creek, which leaves and
rejoins the Murray as an anabranch. At high river the lakes fill up, then dry
out throughout the summer and autumn. Complete dry-out occurs only after
three successive years of low river, Lake Mournpoul being the last to dry.
Local rainfall is only about 11 inches per annum, which is insufficient for run-off.
There was plenty of water when we were there, but the beauty of the area
would be greatly diminished if the lakes were dry, and anyone planning a visit
should enquire about this before going. We could only spare two days on
this trip, but hope to go back for a longer stay to explore more of this
fascinating country, perhaps to walk more if the weather is cooler, although it
was delightful lazing under the red gums; the solitude complete apart from
the myriads of birds.
EXTEND Your Walking
Range
Join the
MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS
The Club arranges trips and transport
New fields, far and near, open up to you
Annual Subscriptions:
Seniors 30/Juniors (under 20) 15/Married Couples 40/-
For further details see page 2.
Page Twelve
W A L K
'13LackJellow c.Qelic6
J. Attridge
Until 1830 when they numbered about 300, the Bunurong (or BOONORRONG tribe inhabited the area stretching from the Werribee River to
Anderson's Inlet and back as far as Euroa. They were a rather advanced
type of aborigine with a comprehensive language and considered themselves a
cut above neighboring tribes.
They were beach inhabitants who subsisted on sea products of which they
evidently had great knowledge. The signs of their occupation along the foreshore
suggested that they ate nothing but fish, mussels and periwinkles.
WELL AT RED BLUFF
-Courtesy A.N.A. Press
When the difficulties of living far from rivers forced them to find other
supplies of fresh water these people found that the swamps at Carrum Downs
and Dandenong had a natural seepage to springs at the beach front. Accordingly,
at low points along the foreshore, they chipped small wells into the soft
sandstone to collect this drainage; there is even evidence that they dug channels
in the cliffs and chipped runnels into the rocks to conduct the water to these
wells.
The first well is an aboriginal soak on the cliffs near the Beaumaris Yacht
Club. It is the only spring surviving of all those mentioned. Five feet deep and
four feet in diameter, it is a typical example of aboriginal well sinking. When
cleared of debris it will still fill with water at the rate of four gallons an hour.
The No. 2 well (all the known wells are numbered by the Beaumaris
Historical Trust for ease of reference) is sunk in the foreshore sandstone just
west of the Yacht Club. It consists of a small basin let into the rock by some
tussocks, and a hole II inches in diameter sunk about two feet. It is interesting
to recall that in 1803 Colonel Collins placed five barrels in the sand at this
point to collect and store water for his expedition which eventually set up
a settlement at Sorrento. It is also a fact that many of these aboriginal wells
were enlarged and used by white settlers as late as 1901.
WALK
Page Thirteen
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WALK
Page Fourteen
The implements used in the well sinking would have been sharp flintstones
and fire hardened sheoake spears.
Further along the beach there is the so-called Maori well, or soak. Although
history relates a J?arty of Maoris lived at Rosebud about 1870, the people who
were at Beaumar1s as late as 1896 were, in fact, a band of gypsies who gave
Sandringham its early name Gypsy Village. What is now called Picnic Point
was then known as Gypsy Point. This was definitely a gypsy well and it is
quite possible it was an aboriginal well much earlier. Lower down in the
sandstone on the foreshore, now some feet under the sand, is a large gobletshaped well put there by early settlers which still fills with water when cleared
of sand. This was still supplying water for general use in 1901 when the
gypsies had disappeared.
PART OF MIDDEN AT BLACK ROCK
-Courtesy A.N.A. Press
At the foot of the towering cliffs at the Red Bluff are seven large wells
known as Long Bob's Wells. This fellow was a fisherman who lived on the
cliff top about 1880, but prior to his occupation it is interesting to relate that
this area was infested by gangs of escaped and ex-convicts who also depended
on these wells for water. It is quite feasible to reason that the wells were onginally
sunk here by aborigines and enlarged by these white settlers later.
From 1888 to 1914 horse trams brought picnickers, and local "businessmen"
sold hot water and periwinkles to them. When the picnickers utilised the wells
at the Bluff and started boiling their own water, the "businessmen" set to
work and breached the wells so they could not store enough water to fill
a billy. The spring that fed these wells was still in evidence quite recently until
it was diverted into a storm drain nearby. These wells are most interesting-one
of them was large enough to bathe in !
On the cliffs at Half Moon Bay is a huge midden 40 yards in diamster.
It is now being steadily exposed and is a startling sight.
Over the centuries successive encampments of aborigines left debris behind
them which has formed quite recognisable strata. There are seven stratum, each
quite distinct from its fellows, consisting of a thick layer of mussel shells, ash
from fires, and stones which formed aboriginal ovens identifiable even now.
The age of these deposits can only be determined by radiological tests and the
expense is beyond the resources of the interested bodies.
W A L K
Page
Fifteen
Standing by these sole surviving monuments to the Bunurong, ftanked
by the wind wracked waves on one side and the natural growth of salt
bush, leptospermum and banksia on the other, it is saddening to consider that
their continued survival depends on the interest of small bodies without financial
power or political influence.
Already the Maori well has been threatened by the Council using the nearby
area as a rubbish tip. Happily, well timed protests succeeded in stopping this
before the wells were covered and lost. At Beaumaris, the Histoncal Trust
members are perturbed by the possibility of projected foreshore improvements
destroying the wells and soak there.
It will indeed be a pity if these last monuments to the Bunurong are lost
to posterity. It is a wonderful experience to stand by these wells on the sunsoaked sands and remember the link they form between the onlooker, the early
white settlers, Colonel Collins in 1803, and the first Australian natives of the
area-the Bunurong tribe.
[The above article was brought to our attention by a reader of "WALK"
following an expedition along the foreshore of Beaumaris and Black Rock to
visit the sites of previous aboriginal occupation. He wishes to acknowledge the
assistance of Mr. A. Massola, Director of Anthropology at the National Museum,
who made the material available to him. The article was originally printed in
Anapress.]
Leave gates opened or closed just as you find them; unless you are certain
that they need altering.
·······-····················-------------------·····
A BOOK FOR BUSHWALKERS
A BUSHMAN'S HARVEST
-JACK HYETT
Jack Hyett follows up the grand success of "A Bushman's
Year" (now out-of-print) with this beautifully written and
superbly illustrated second collection of essays on natural
history topics.
He has three themes: The life of plants and animals in the
bush; the world in your own suburban backyard; and the
wonderful response of children to the natural phenomena
around them. An additional feature of great value is the
comprehensive index of fauna and flora.
This is the absolutely ideal gift for all who find wonder and
delight in the Australian bush a book for everyone in
the family to enjoy!
32/- at all bookshops
F. W. CHESHIRE
···························-························
Page Sixteen
W A L K
FROM
'1rla.Jekin~ to '1flt. 'lOillia.m
IN THE STEPS OF THE MAJOR
Fred Halls.
For some time past now that high sugarloaf peak had beckoned. It had called
with an allure that made me want to clamber far aloft above deep golden gorges;
to follow, 126 years later, the steps of gallant Major Mitchell over the Plateau
to Mt. William.
'Moneybags,' 'Dougy,' 'Big Tom,' 'Instant Ian' and 'Tusitala' were some of the
happy companions who tramped with me along the rugged sandstone spurs
south of the plateau scarp. In perfect weather and high spirits we left the
van in the Wannon Valley, near the foot of Mount Frederick, with its vast
colorful wall. From there we pushed and scrambled slowly upwards along a
rocky, scrubby spur, towards that ever-beckoning high point near the western
edge of the Major Mitchell Plateau, 'Whyte's Sugarloaf.' Higher, ever higher,
through spiny scrub, through hard-branched Banksia, the way was beset by the
dark, horny seed cases on the tall, fruiting stems of Blackboy. It led along the
ridge between the deep gorge-like valley of Second Wannon Creek with its
high sandstone cliffs on our left, and Stockyard Creek valley to the south.
ROCK FORMATIONS- MT. WILLIAM
-J. Brownlie
Then came the downhill sidling and sliding to the forest access road
along Stockyard Creek. Since most of the forests below the Plateau were of
Messmate and Narrow-leaf Peppermint, the huge bushfire of two years ago had
caused vigorous coppice regrowth, with resultant attractive appearance of the
forest. Pushing our way through these sections of the bush caused the complexion
of many of us to take on a distinctly inky tinge. When the rough track faded
out there followed a sidling scramble over a steep grassy spur to a rock outcrop
At about this stage there came the agonized complaint from one of the group,
"Ooh ! I'm snappin' off at the pockets !" Far below in the valley depths
'Tusitala,' through his spyglass, sighted two red and blue oil drums signs of
civilisation. There must be water, and sure enough there it was, a tiny clear stream
in a steep rocky valley, the western head of Jimmy's Creek.
This was to be our base for the next day while we explored the vicinity
of the old gold mining district of Mafeking (the Mt. William Diggings) . Each
meal time the cold gully wind sweeping down from the high scarp carried the
wood smoke far down through the tall peppermints in the gully. By night the
WALK
Page Seventeen
full Easter moon flooded the wooded valley with a peaceful charm it had
never possessed in the strong light of day. The darkness hid the ugliness of all
man's works, the silvery light revealing only the true beauty of the sleeping
forest.
What lovely weather we had, what fantastic weather for such a late Easter,
a real shorts 'n shirt holiday. We never pitched the tents once during the four
days of coolness by night and warmth by day, of relaxation in the warm circle
of firelight and the easy chatter of friendly voices. On several occasions by the
camp fires Big Tom listened with fascinated attention to the odd tales and
verses spun by 'Tusitala,' while 'Dougy' softly sang old Australian ballads.
By rough, stony jeep tracks, by grassy spur and logging roads, next
day we descended steeply to the valley of Mason's Creek, and a lunch spot by
the picturesque old workings of Mafeking. Deep alluvial gullies supported by
the strong stone walls patiently built by Chinese diggers, were points of interest.
One such gully in particular, because of its size, churned our interested attention.
Speculation was rife as to the method of working, and in particular the question
was, "where did they get the water to operate the sluices ?" This gully was at
least 60 feet deep by 100 feet wide and up to a quarter-mile long. Sheer sides
were supported by large round stones systematically packed by the patient
Chinese.
An air of peace pervaded the valley, with its black-barked messmates and
large green growth of coppice leaves growing cheek by jowl alongside the tall,
healthy grass trees with their long flower stems-a most Australian atmosphere
in this warm, sunlit valley. Further along the sandy track a wide, grassy clearing
afforded splendid views of the plateau's high scarp, our target for tomorrow.
Later, the return to camp was made along very steep jeep tracks and by yesterday's grassy spur.
Early next morning, again we left by 'Three Times Spur,' climbing over
rocky knobs, through snaggy-branched Banksia and finally stunted snowgum
to 'Whyte's Sugarloaf.' Now we were almost on the plateau edge, with splendid
views in all directions, particularly the soft distant beauty of the southern Serra
Range and Mt. Abrupt. The approach now to the Plateau proper is along the
narrow edge of the scarp, through low spiny scrub and hard-branched dead
shrubs.
From the top great flinty-clawed spurs plunged vertically down, while over
the western edge of the plateau we had distant but alluring views of the mighty
saw-tooth of the Serra Range, now dominated by the bulky shape of Mt. Lang.
There were intriguing glimpses of great gorges biting deeply into the plateau's
western rim.
Four miles northward from the Plateau cairn, we could see the beehive
shape of the cairn on Mt. William, 3829 feet, surmounting its humpbacked
mountain bulk. The far-flung slopes of the plateau itself are covered with wide
slabs of sandstone. The surface crevices in many places support large varieties of
typical Grampians .plants. This would be a paradise of flowering plants in the
spring, probably m1d-November at this altitude of 3500 feet.
We had been mentally prepared for a dry day on this section and were
carrying sufficient water, but the presence of hawks hovering above certain
gullies and the insistent twittering of small birds indicated that somewhere in
this high wilderness there must be water. There may be; but we didn't find it!
'Twas probably several hundred yards distant down the western slopes.
Lunchtime saw us seeking the shelter of snow gums out of the hot sun,
and seated on mossy boulders in a shallow gully. Further on 'Tusitala,' Frank
and I, searching for water in a spring, became separated from the rest; but after
some milling around and a period of confusion we later rejoined the party.
Repeated references to washing in cool creeks brought an ominous rumble of
threats against 'Big Tom,' threats to dump him bodily in the first big creek
that we crossed.
As we approached the high sandstone blocks above Boundary Gap the
views became more spectacular. Great gashes through the scarp are lined by
pillars of vertical sandstone. One such gorge is bordered on each side by pillars
shaped like a huge coronation chair, while southwards of the Fyan's Creek Gorge
a spectacular sharp-tipped peak of orange sandstone earned from us the name
Page Eighteen
W A L K
of Bushwalker's Peak. A careful scramble down over the blocks of orange-red
sandstone brought us into the lush haven of Boundary Gap. From above the
bush the Gap appears to be of low scrub; imagine our surprise on descending
to find an open forest of tall peppermints with a thick carpet of knee-high
grass. A rippling creek is all that's required to make of this an ideal camp site.
All night long the high wind lashed at the coppiced branches, but down below
in the thick springy grass we were all warm and comfy as we drank in the
beauty of the silvered forest.
Early next morning on the climb out of the Gap there was the impressive
sight of the mists of the mornin~ a couple of thousand feet below, swirling in
from the south and along the VIctoria Valley. We were soon above a vast sea
of clouds, but the hot sun later in the day dispersed this wide cloud front.
Next day the best views of the trip were seen from a rocky sandstone bench
just to the north of Boundary Gap. The sandstone in many places is of a brilliant orange hue, particularly in the rough gorge country. In America these
formations would be known as box canyons. The face of Mt. Frederick is an
unbroken colourful wall from this point, while further south, Mt. Lang, king
of the Sawtooth Range, impresses with its bulky bold outline of shimmering
powder blue.
Little further remained now except to climb to William's cairn, with its
attendant good views. Then the long downhill tramp along a good track past
Liomin Castle to Fyan's Creek. At the crossing of the creek, above the noise
of the stream's merry chatter, from downstream came the loud carolling and
splashing of 'Big Tom' as he wallowed happily in the bright stream, (although
there was some oblique references to a certain metal animal). And for most of
the group at the end of this most enjoyable Easter came the opportunity to
clean off the inky grime of the walk through from Mafeking, and to cool their
"barking dogs" m the sparkling creeks.
While the views had been up to all expectations the going over the Plateau
had been easier than anticipated. The approach to the ridge, although fairly
hard, had been reasonable, providing the correct spur was tackled. To attempt
to climb the scarp via the more easterly spurs would be courting failure, unless
the party was properly equipped for rock climbing.
In short, it was Bonzer !
TEKTITES.
Readers of Dr. Fenner's anecdotal books on Australiana, such as "Mostly
Australian," have been interested in his account of the mystery of the ori~in
of tektites. These are glassy bodies of unknown origin, and rounded but mdefinite shape, and are found in profusion in the Nullabor desert area of southern
Australia. Early this year a U.S. space scientist propounded a theory which
supposed they originated on the moon. Now evidence has been offered to refute
the new theory and reinstate one of the old. Dr. Ehmann, of Kentucky, has
shown that their nickel content is much lower than would be expected if they
came from outer space, and Zahringer, of Germany, claims that their radioactivity does not match that expected if they came from the moon. According to
this check tektites were of the same age as their surroundings, and he suggests
that they are probably the product of a meteoric impact great enough to melt the
surrounding earth.
* *
BURN, BASH & BURY
Tin cans are abhorred by walkers-or so they say. Yet who doesn't at
various times carry them ? That the rest of the world regards them as a boon
and a blessing is obvious from the statistics. The first patent was granted to a
French chef b¥ George III as recently as 1810; today it would be hard to
imagine life without them. Australia alone uses more than 1000 million per
annum and consumes 135,000 tons of tinplate in the process. World productiOn
is greater than 6 million tons-and not high enough ! No wonder there is
need for the walkers' maxim of "Burn, Bash and Bury !" Incidentally, in case
you haven't checked it, an 8 oz. fruit tin weighs about 21 oz. For an item which
is only this year celebrating its sesquicentenary, the "old tin can" has certainly
come a long way,
W A L K
Page Nineteen
~It~ £ate Starter
A. G. Bennett.
It was at about the busiest time of the morning-of course-and about
a week before Christmas that the phone rang. The hurrying voice at the other
end wasted no time on preliminaries, but plunged straight ahead:
I believe you're doing a trip to Kossie over Christmas, have you got a
spare place in your transport? I was going to Lord Howe Island but that's
put back a few weeks and I've got some time to put in and I'd like to come
if you can fit me in, can you?
Somewhere along the line the voice may have introduced itself, but it
wasn't really necessary. Surely only one walker of my acquaintance talked
just that way.
There was a spare seat in the jeep, but trains on Christmas Eve were heavily
booked. How would he get on if he couldn't get a seat on the train?
"Oh, I suppose I'll have to get a ticket for the next day if necessary. My
friends have often booked the wrong train for me anyway !"
Well, all problems seemed to have been solved in advance, so we agreed
to meet at Flinders Street on the day of departure, to board the Gippslander.
Need I say that departure time came, and we and the train went, with no sign
of the Late Starter. It was characteristic of the man that not one of us gave
it a second thought-!, for one, was reminded of a paraphrase penned in "Walk"
a couple of years ago by "O.O.T.": "There joined us then at Corryong a small
and speedy beast." We knew he'd turn up somewhere, sometime.And that was
as the train was pulling into Bairnsdale. He had hitched a luxury ride all the
way in a "Yank Tank," and beaten us conventional types by a wide margin.
Things were more or less normal from there to our overnight stop at
Benambra, and on from there by jeep next mornin~ to Bullie's Creek. Here all
but one-not the Late Starter-left the jeep to chmb Cobberas, and push on
from there to Quambatt Flat, our night's camp. The jeep took our packs on for
us.
At Quambatt Flat that night I was again reminded of our "small and
speedy beast" of Corryong. He had done everything in a great rush before
leaving home, with the result that most of his food was in its original packing.
However, he had brought his usual containers with him, and that night and
next morning there was great activity in repacking. This was slightly better than
that earlier trip. That time, he had not had time before leaving to wrap and
despatch his various Christmas gifts and cards, so he had taken them along
to deal with at Corryong, and had spent much of that day, while waiting for us,
established in a cafe, wrapping and addressing gifts and cards.
However, the real highlight of Quambatt Flat was his sleeping accommodation. I didn't quite grasp all the mechanical details of the system, but as
far as I could see one slept on one inflated polythene bag, with another erected
as a sort of (very) low tent on top. This was to combine the maximum of
lightness and portability with comfort. The polythene bags were inflated quite
simply, by tying up one end, holding the other end open, running like a mad
thing, and suddenly crumpling the open end shut while the bag was streaming
out behind like a king-size bubble. In case the idea was not a success, a tent
was pitched over the lot.
During this night it became obvious that I would not be able to see this
trip out to the end, so next morning I asked the Late Starter if he would
mind taking the party on from Dead Horse Gap, a couple of days' walking
away. He unselfishly agreed, and I think he would still have agreed even if
he had suspected what was ahead of him. He's that sort of bloke.
Well, things went smoothly next day on the trip to Tin Mine Huts. There was
an interlude at lunch on the side of Mt. Pilot to film the serving of the vast
Christmas cake he had brought with him. The next day, to Cascade Hut, was
also more or less according to programme, apart from some bother with
deceptive tracks, and another interlude to film the serving of the Christmas cake
Page Twenty
W A L K
again. At about 11 a.m. on our fourth day out from Benambra, we dropped
down the ridge to Dead Horse Gap. Here I handed over maps and track notes,
bade the party good-bye, and hitched into Corryong, so I can only tell my end
of the story from here on.
The trip from Dead Horse Gap north to Jagungal, and thence to Bradney's
Gap, near Khancoban, had been planned as a fairly leisurely six-day journey, so
when I returned to Melbourne I didn't expect to hear any news for at least
six days. However, on about the fourth day I received a phone call which
told me, to my horror, that the party of five had very soon gone off in four
different directions. Three had reached home, but the whereabouts of the other
two, who were not together, was anybody's guess.
These matters rested until some days later, after I had returned to work.
I received a phone call from a very puzzled mail room clerk, saying she had
a telegram for me from Cabramurra. More or less verbatim, it read:
"I am a solution looking for a problem, where is it?"
Obviously the Late Starter had reached civilisation.
After a couple of days' searching for the rest of the party, including
returning to Dead Horse Gap, and pushing on north to White's River, he had
given up and continued on his own way, finishing up in Sydney.
The one remaining member of the party went nearly as long a way
around to get home-via Canberra.
What all this proved I don't quite know. Perhaps just what we all know,
that most bushwalkers are individualists.
To get the best from your walks, study the history and geography of the
area beforehand-and don't plan too tight a schedule !
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WALK
Page
Twenly·one
'lew it aLL
Startea
Wyatt.
Why I chose that November week-end in 1955 for my first week-end walk
I am not sure, certainly I did so of my own free will, and friend Heinz did warn
me of some of the obstacles we might meet.
Nevertheless, I felt this was a good opportunity to begin and Saturday
morning found me on the Warburton train with a party of hardened veterans
planning to get even harder before the extended Christmas trips. To them
Graeme's walk from Warburton to Narbethong via the Boobyalla Plateau and
Mt. Vinegar seemed quite good Christmas training, as the Federation track was
not then in the good condition which it is at present.
My first misgivings came with the foothills of Mt. Victoria as a full pack
dragged on my back for the first time, and lunch time found me at Cement
Creek mending a strap on my pack broken in a too-reckless drop from a fallen
log. Clearly, this was not going to be "my week end."
We turned then to the main slopes of the Cement Creek watershed and after
an interminable length of time in which the slope grew steadily steeper and
my burden steadily heavier, we at last came to the saddle.
A short rest and off again, no rest for the weary when water and camp
are miles off and night is coming. Crossing a large plain north of Boobyalla
the Cathedral stood up before us in the soft evening light across the Acheron
Valley, but even this inspiring view was soon swallowed by high scrub and
fallen logs. Scrambling over these obstacles welcome shouts heralded us to our
campsite in the Boobyalla saddle. My first evening meal on the track was
hardly an outstanding success, but in retrospect the night was uneventful
considering the indignities I have subsequently suffered from ants and their
kin and those strange little folk who erect mountains on the ground which
would have graced a bowling green prior to the pitching of my tent thereon.
We arose in the morning to a beautiful day and after a domestic and
inadequate breakfast I set off following the party along the disused tramline.
At the junction of the Federation track and the track leading down to Acheron
Gap we unfortunately turned to the right, and although our error was quickly
realised we had dropped considerably and the climb retracting our steps left me
demoralized for the battle with the nightmare of fallen timber protecting the
Knobs from trespassing humanity. These logs had been placed, so it seemed,
at just that cunning height at which they are Impossible to straddle but are
too low to worm under without snagging your pack. Thus, under, over or
around we dealt with each rotting log as we encountered it for two long hours,
the only relief from our toil coming where the blazes lead along fallen ash
high over the tangled chaos below.
By the time we began to dip into the valley of Somer's Creek I was
dragging wearily, but the first glimpse of this green valley with an occasional treefern and clear water through the overhanging dogwood lifted me in anticipation
of rest and a cool drink.
Coming to the bank of the creek, I paused and seeing the earlier arrivals
sprawled in the sun on the opposite bank ten yards to my right plucking the
leeches from their legs, I innocently asked: "How did you get over there ?"
"Just walked,' came their curt and wholly fictitious reply.
Then, in good faith, I ignored the log to my left and boldly jumped the
creek. Two more quick off-balance steps, and I had sunk to my hips in a bog
of the blackest slime. Hampered by my pack I floundered helplessly, my frantic
efforts to drag one leg from the filth only driving the other deeper. So I
struggled as the others on the bank stood by powerless-with laughter.
It seemed I would be thrashing there for ever until two of my tormentors
dragged me bodily from the swamp. They they helped me clean up and quench
my thirst before we set off up Mt. Vinegar. However, 300 yards up the slope
found me full of cold water under the hot sun and my legs lost their capactty
to lift me a pace further. How I eventually reached the top is mercifully blurred
by a bad memory, but I am sure that Graeme's patient encouragement was just
the persuasion I needed.
Little did I realise then how minor the miseries of this first week-end
were and how quickly I would forget the aches and scratches and look on
the whole trip as a sort of weak, perverted joke.
Page Twenty-twa
W A L K
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Save all the highlights
and fun of your next
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There's Kodacolor film also for exciting prints for
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Page Twenly·lhree
<:J11,ap <=R.eaainf Ubeekena
Nong-Nong.
We were dropped in four groups along the Bullengarook road between
Bacchus Marsh and Sunbury. This uplifted area intersected by deep gorges is
a good one for practising map reading. The novices (hereinafter called the
"nongs"), armed with map and compass, were appointed leaders and told to
make the rendezvous, the junction of the Lerderderg and Old rivers, by
nightfall.
Weird and wonderful were the tales that could be told by the wise about
the nongs: how one was so determined to demonstrate her proficienc¥. with
the compass that she attempted to lead her party in a straight line up htll and
down dale (until her mentors objected); how the same nong bribed the wise
with juicy tomatoes to say nothing of her escapades; how another covered
her misdemeanors by disturbing her own variety of "scroggin" with a bounteous hand; how yet others were prevented from straying too far from the straight
and narrow by the empty stomachs of their captors. But great too. was the
information and knowledge imparted to the nongs by the wise: how to use
the friendly ridges to the greatest advantage; how to check direction roughly
by the position of the sun (north at midday); how to recognise an overgrown
track by the trees cut away overhead; how to check one's position, when
climbing a slope, by locating landmarks behind one; and hosts of others.
First at the campsite was the first party dropped. With Frank and Merv
modestly disclaiming any share in this achievement, congratulations were
showered on their "tiger of a leader" (though rumour has it that she arrived
considerably after the others anyway).
The next morning, when the other parties had struggled in, to the accompaniment of jeering that echoed and re-echoed down the gorge, and John had
filled in waiting time by relating his story about the Rary, we set off upstream
to a spot identified correctly by one of the bright nongs as Ah Kow's Gully.
Here we were inducted into the mysteries of improvising a stretcher for one
of the wise, who had been unwise enough to break his leg. How the stretcher
bearers stru~led up and down the face of the gorge and then across the river,
with the victim roarin~ and bellowing instructions like a town bull, is another
story, and why they dtdn't take their revenge by the process of simple immersion remains one of life's mysteries-and disappointments-to the watchers
on the bank.
The trip ended with a climb up Mt. Blackwood and a superb view of the
scene of our labours the day before. The general concensus of opinion seemed
to be that we had gained in knowledge and confidence, that for many of us
a map had taken on new meaning, and that such weekends should be held
more often. Even the wise remarked graciously that they had enjoyed this one
(we have no doubt they did!), See you on next one?
THE END OF THE TRACK
Mrs. Rose Bennie - died July, 1962.
There would be very few who have walked in the Mt. Cobbler area
who have not made the acquaintance of Mr. and Mrs. Bennie at their horne
at the Rose River. This was indeed a pleasure to look forward to, and it is
with great regret that we record the passing of Mrs. Bennie at over 80 years
of age. She had lived at "Rivermount" since 1919, when it was very isolated, and
although she had seen many changes, she had always moved with the times.
She never failed to make everyone welcome, with anything from cake and
ginger beer to full accommodation, even at a moment's notice. The many
mementos in her home are a record of the numerous friends which she has left
behind. We extend to Mr. Bennie our sympathy at the loss of his life-long companion, and regret that future walkers will not have the privilege of knowing
such a charming personality of the Victorian mountains.
Page Twenty-four
W A L K
cA
'lOintrv '10alk
in the 'l1,ortlt-€a6t-"Cadoo."
I find the leader near the Man in Grey. It's Friday night, the eve of the
Queen's Birthday long week-end, and Spencer Street station is jammed thick
with the holiday crowd. He, the leader, is deep in a newspaper, and as I drop my
rucksack by his feet, he hardly notices me. I can see his face is much longer
than usual. I know what he's studying. The weather chart; twenty concentric
rings of intense cyclonic depression sitting fair and square on the Bight; crisscross shading of heavy rain darkening half the continent; gloomy prophecies
for the other half, the eastern States.
"So you've turned up," he says, at last acknowledging my presence.
"No need to look as black as the weather," I reply comfortingly. "We are
two."
But five other fellows materialise out of the crowd and join in. The party
is complete, so we hurry off to our platform. We pass a row of brilliantly lit
windows. It's the silver sided "Southern Aurora," humming with life and power,
ready for the journey up to Sydney. Inside passengers inspect their berths or
settle down to dinner. Behind them hover white-coated stewards.
"Hurry up, there!"
I follow our party through the wintry night to the far platform, for our
train is on the Victorian gauge and our destination Wodonga.
Eleven o'clock the same night and were there-at the top end of the State. I
suppose you can call it that, for if you go on for another couple of miles
you're at the river and the border of N.S.W. Victorians require a N.S.W.
anglers licence if they want to fish from the Murray, even from their own
side, for the State boundary runs along the southern shore. At the moment
the porter is offering some advice as to a camp site but the leader seems to
have his own ideas, though he has just confessed that this is his first visit to
the place! At Wodonga you walk off the end of the platform straight on to the
main street. Once under a street light the leader pulls out his military survey
map and bids us follow closely. But we do not progress very far before our
nostrils are assailed by that delectable aroma of fish'n'chips coming out of an
all-night cafe. We follow the scent and troop in, for It's an old adage of
walkers to always stock up while the opportunity lasts.
Later, about midnight, we are dodging the swamps and groping warily
in the river mists (which the porter warned about) till we find what appears
to be the campsite for the night, though in this fog we could be anywhere.
A fallen river gum yields some knobbly, twisted sticks, just long enough to
serve as tent poles. All through the night the hooters of the interminable
goods trains boom over the flats, though I am not one, thankfully, who is kept
awake by these disturbing sounds.
What I do hear, at break of day, is the patter of rain on the japara. A
preliminary peep outside reveals that we are camped on a big river flat near
one of the anabranches of the Murray River. Giant river gums, widely growing
apart, cover the flat and, in the distance, merge into the grey-green forest,
while all around are low timbered hills shrouded in rain clouds. Along the
banks of the stream the willows droop palely into the swirling waters. Outside
their tents members of the party are preparing the breakfast fires despite the
showers, but soon the weather improves and we can see the war memorial
tower on high ground near Albury reflects a stray beam of morning sunshine.
The wide sweeping river, with its tributaries, lagoons and anabranches, fills
an area of two to three miles in width, some of the backwaters measuring up
to two miles in length. The historian of the party remarks that Messrs. Hume
and Hovell had trouble finding a way through this lagoon land before being
able to cross the river itself. They arrived at the area on 16th November,
1824 but were not across until the 20th. During November the river would be
high after the spring rains and the melting snows in the highlands. Their return
journey in January of the following year was a much easier affair. Although
W A L K
Page Twenty-five
Hume discovered the river it was Sturt who gave it its present name after the
Secretary for State for the Colonies.
But we are leaving the river to go back along the highway, the main
street where the autumn leaves from the stout plane trees litter the footpaths and
gutters, and head for the hills to the south. On the way out of town we pass
some big sheds and a tangle of rusty barbed wire. We are passing the western
end of Bandiana Sidings where a few flat top trucks are rusting on their rails,
the drab camouflage paint peeling away. These sidings extend a considerable
distance and travellers on the Tallangatta line may look out on to lines
of carriages and wagons standing amid the boxwood and the long grass. Like
the Jolimont yards gone bush-that's Bandiana. They say a bandy-legged
native woman name of Anna once lived hereabouts.
At a higher level our road loses its fences and we follow a trail of wheel
marks over undulating grazing country. Looking directly back over our
shoulders we can see the Hume Reservoir and the big hills which dip directly
into it. There is a storm blowing over the New South Wales tablelanCJs behind
and to the left of Albury. That city seems to have some big hills overshadowing
it when viewed from our vantage point. Away in the west, where the river
valley is a shallow scoop, and where the dark scattered woodlands meet the
open country the sun streams down from a blue sky.
This night we spend in an empty shepherd's hut. The sun goes down
seeming to transform a nearby tree-topped ridge into a band of crimson,
glowing coals. There are bright stars in a clear night sky and from down
below there is a glare of pulsing light-from the towns of the Murray River
Valley. Put your boots outside, please Frank, they stop us from sleepmg.
The sizzle and smell of sausages in the frying pan means it is time for
breakfast. We start off feeling fit after a good night's rest and follow the stone
capped ridges. The sun and the rain of yesterday have done their work and
now the mushrooms are thrusting up, breaking the soil and pushing aside the
stones. On our left rises the rugged Baranduda Range and glimpses of the
Kiewa River valley. That range is destined to be crowned with a television
transmitting mast in the near future.
How to cross? We are now standing at the edge of the swollen waters of
Indigo Creek. Debris caught between fallen logs provide the answer by making
a bridge to the lunch spot on the far side. Behind that sunny spot a high bank
forms a wind break which later we climb to enter the edge of the State
Forest. At first it's through fairly open timber, passing odd groups of pine
trees, perhaps the sites of old selections now reclaimed by the native vegetation;
but we come to a wide clearing, a sheep paddock of a beautiful dark green,
lush grass where clean looking flocks graze. On the far side of the clearing,
perhaps three-quarters of a mile distant, rises a magnificent mountain side
with perpendicular rock faces a hundred or more feet in height, down which
trickle soaks of water reflecting the afternoon sun. We go around this paddock
and commence our climb where the gradient seems a little easier. Boxwood
splits and grows out of the crumbly stone. Halfway up, the sky darkens, the
air freezes and hail abruptly lashes down. Everyone dashes for shelter, the
nearest being under an overhanging granite boulder. The Cooper complains that
water is running down the back of his neck. "I'm alright, Jack" I signal back
to him from the relative dryness of my position. I look around and take stock
of our surroundings, and note the fine specimens of grass trees flourishing
among the boulders. Some of the big tors have fallen together forming shallow
caverns. The hail storm passes as suddenly as it started and we soon finish our
climb up to the flattish top of the mountain. This is part of the Mt. Pilot
Range and Beechworth would be about nine miles to the south. Our course
is westward through the extensive forest. But the weather worsens again so
we direct our paces to where there is a hut as marked on the survey map.
When we reach the spot marked we find only ruins left-a few crumbling
mud-brick walls. Someone remarks: "Once an adobe abode!". The light is
failing fast and a chill wind springs up as we reach the edge of the timbered
country. A low black cloud empties itself on us and down comes the rain
in bucketfulls.
Shelter at last! One room and a verandah, the walls draughty, doors
agape, but the roof is watertight and there is a fine stone fireplace plus some
Page Twenty-six
WALK
remnants of rustic furniture. An old shepherd's cabin or a selector's hut?
Nobody knows, but all set to and c:Iean the place up. Temporary repairs are
effected. firewood $athered and the flames are soon licking up the chimney.
The rain pounds violently on the tin roof and the thunder crashes down the
valley. The darkness outside is rent vivid blue by the incessant lightning.
Over the fire the stewpot swings and bubbles contentedly and socks steam from
a line hung in front of the old fireplace.
Seven o'clock in the morning and we're ready once more for the road.
The rain has stopped but fog now comes sliding off the timbered ridges and
stretches out of the forest in long wraith-like fingers. Our track is a long
white gravelly road leading us back into the timber where we can cut corners
a mile at a time, for the forest is clear of undergrowth and underfoot there
is a soft, springy carpet of leaf mould. Every non-perennial stream is flowing,
even the smallest of gutters, but the water looks clean and tastes sweet no
doubt due, in fact, to the excellent condition of the forest floor, holding the
recent heavy rain water then letting it out slowly as does a sponge.
A rise brings us up above the tree tops to a view of the hill-enfolded
Chiltern valley. To the south a reservoir fits snugly in a natural basin deep
in the Mt. Pilot Range and part of the same stretch of State Forest which we
left earlier in the morning. On the horizon, forty miles south, are the familiar
outlines of the Mt. Buffalo plateau.
The last climb is over the inaptly named Skeleton Hills for they are clad
amply enough in a fine forest cover of eucalypts. A ridge road branches north,
the Ballaarat Road it's called, but not to the famous city. It leads into the
Indigo valley where on the far side rises a mountain, just under the 2000ft. level,
called "The Kookaburra" probably because it is the home of many members
of that feathered tribe. The Cooper remarks that he has been in this area
during summer when the creeks are dust dry and the only stream that is still
flowing is the Black Dog. Then the fish hide out the hot months in the deep
reedy waterholes found along its course.
This is the last leg of our journey-into the hollow holding the sleepy
town of Chiltern, even now more sleepy since the highway has been re-routed
through the open paddocks east of the railway line. Uke Barnawartha further
on, the town is completely by-passed and where the highway once ran through
a busy main street, there is now a succession of boarded up milk bars and fish
cafes. All we have to do now is wait for our train back to Melbourne.
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WALK
Page Twenty-seven
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Page Twenty-eight
W A L K
o4utumn 'Walk tc 'l11,itcltell'*"
Pam & Walter.
It was a crisp autumn morning as we peeped cautiously out of our tent
pitched under the old chestnut trees at Ware's Hut ruins. The sun was just
colouring the tips of the golden poplars, but the dew was still heavy on the
grassy clearing beside the Howqua, so we edged slowly out of our bags and
completed the necessary chores before departing.
The jeep track led up, up and up. Having plodded solidly for an hour,
we rested just as solidly on our laurels and found Mts. Buller and Timbertop
leering at us across the valley. In the far distance we glimpsed the Eildon Weir
with Mt. Torbreck as its background. A further hour's climbing found us
almost at the entrance of the "Pearly Gates"-we had finally reached the
highest point of the watershed dividing the valleys of the Howqua and the
Jamieson.
On our left the twin summits of the Governors appeared quite close.
This contrasted strongly with our previous walk along the watershed when
we barely recognised the same mist-shrouded peaks. The track continues along
the ridge without falling or rising much for a mile or two and then proceeds
to descend to Mitchell's Creek as sharply as it rose from the Howqua. Straight
ahead the bulky mass of Mt. Skene dominated the view. As the track descends
the undergrowth becomes denser and the trees increase in height. Occasional
glimpses of Mitchell's Run, a large natural clearing in the forest, adjoining
Mitchell's Creek, hurried our steps until we were at last crossing the creek
on the edge of the clearing. A mile and a half long by half a mile wide, it was
used in the old days as a cattle run.
Huge pines stand atop the rise just beyond the creek crossing and from
this point the full glory of the autumn-coloured chestnut, walnut and beech trees
provided one of our fondest memories of this hidden valley, with its derelict
but very welcome homestead. Two rooms of the cottage are still quite habitable
and are often visited by cattlemen, fishermen, rabbit-trappers and an occasional
bushwalker. The small verandah is usually stacked with chopped firewood and
pine cones.
Upon entering the dim kitchen one stumbles upon a few items of rustic
furniture. Decorating the walls and rafters are the names of many visitors
over the decades. The picture of a Maori chieftain gazes from the wall near
the bedroom door as one reclines sleepily beside the fire after a meal. The
humming of the flies and the rays of the sun shining through the holes of
the rusted iron covering around the fireplace, presents a perfect picture
of calmness and serenity. Not more than fifty feet from the homestead the
creek meanders through lush undergrowth, past tree ferns and small stands
of beech trees. At the rear of the house we found that the old plum trees
were loaded with fruit, which provided a welcome change in our diet. A few
walnuts were still to be found although the birds had made a meal of the best
of them. Having enjoyed a lunch break of two hours at our favorite home in
the hills, we reluctantly decided to depart, as we had many miles yet to cover
before nightfall. A quick glimpse into the bedroom revealed that nothing had
changed there, with the exception of some new blankets left on the two old
beds by the last group of cattlemen.
As we tramped silently across the clearing our thoughts turned to previous
walks we had made to Mitchell's in different seasons. Our first visit was in
Spring when the blackberry bushes and plum trees were blossoming and
numerous rabbits hopped about the creek flats, feeding, undisturbed by our
presence.
Summer brought its changes and as the long grass turned brown the
clumps of Christmas daisies provided a splash of colour along the creek. However,
WALK
Page Twenty-nine
by far the most colourful season of the year is autumn, when yellows and
browns invade the green of the surrounding forest.
The clearing was soon left behind and shortly we found ourselves wading
across the Jamieson where the old well-cut pack horse track climbs once
more high above the river. Three miles from the ford Quicksilver Creek joins the
Jamieson and the old mine hut provides enough shelter for a short rest. With
still four miles to cover that day we lengthened our stride as the sun began
to disappear behind the ridges. While the track is similar to the Howqua track
the steeper banks of the Jamieson provide very few campsites and when
we reached our destination for the day, the tent was pitched hurriedly in the
dusk. We settled down to our evening meal quite satisfied having walked eighteen
miles since sun-up, leaving us only a few easy miles for the morning, back to
Jamieson and civilisation.
BIG PAT'S TO GLADYSDALE
V.G.
It was one of those walks where we climbed as soon as we left the van-
this time it was about 2000 feet before we were allowed to have lunch. But
at least we had it before the leader-she came in with the Whip!
We were climbing from Big Pat's Creek to Mt. Bride via a fireline, the
notice said "Land Rovers only", no mention of bushwalkers-now we know
why. The track was soft on the feet and easy to follow, there were many good
views over the nearby Warburton Ranges -bristling with snowballers by this
time judging by the number of buses we had seen on our way up. We didn't
reach Mt. Bride for lunch but settled on the track about 300 feet from the top
and drank in the glorious sunshine-and this still August!
Shortly after lunch another track came in on our right but we continued
generally south until we rose to Mt. Bride (we know it was Mt. Bride because
someone found a notice to say so, buried in the middle of a hollow tree).
Here the snow sports were on, we were surprised to see so much around. A
descent for a long while along a pleasantly tree-lined firebreak and we arrived at
Mt. Bride Road. This was good, most of the climbing was over now.
About half a mile north along this was another notice-"To Edwardstown
Road"-this was to take us to Mt. Tugwell and from there to Britannia Ck. The
catch was to decide which of the many roads confronting us was the right one
-the timber cutters had been around bulldozing to their working spots. After
two vain attempts when the road ended in piles of fallen timber and we had
to climb all the way back again, we eventually found the right one. It was
obvious now that we examined it properly, there was undergrowth, it was not
freshly dozed, and it was heading south-west. Now we went plunging down with
gay abandon, with lovely views over the valley of the Little Yarra River to
the eastern side of the Dandenongs. Soon we met an old road and continued
south following this. It had degenerated into little more than a watercourse,
but it eventually brought us to Justices Road along the Britannia Creek, which
was soon crossed.
Unfortunately time did not permit a visit to the Falls which were a short
distance further downstream, it was late when we turned into Buffer Break Road
for a very pleasant leg-stretching walk to Gladysdale. The valley was bathed
in the light of the setting sun and the nearby hills were back-lit by an orange
glow which gradually disappeared as we watched-a very fitting ending to 12
miles of lovely mountain ash forest.
Never walk alone in the bush; it may be pleasant, but can be dangerous.
Be helpful to the leader. Remember, he has to think of everyone, including
the fastest and slowest in the party.
Page Thirty
WALK
':Dan~erou6 Summe~
R.M.
Last summer bushfires again took tragic toll of life and property in this
State. For more than 100 years Victorians have lived their summers in perpetual
fear of th~ bushfire. Therefore, as we head into a predicted long, hot and
"tinder dry" summer, it will do no harm to recall the highlights of our fireplagued past as a warning of what could happen again.
What bushfires have cost this state in life and property is beyond calculation (on today's values the disastrous 1939 fires alone cost a conservative
£40 million and 71 Jives). However, one fact is certain, Victoria is the most
fire-ravaged state in a continent that shares with California alone the fearful
distinction of being the most fire-plagued region on earth.
Victol'ie's first recorded major bushfire disaster was Black Thursday, or
Thursday, February 6, 1851. That day Melbourne people awoke to a day of
yellow half-light. The sun was invisible through smoke that swirled down the
streets before a stifling north wind. At t l a.m. the temperature was 117 deg.
in the city and cinders were falling. The ranges were alight from Mt. Macedon
to the Dandenongs. Fires circled Geelong and swept through the Western districts
from Barwon Heads to Mt. Gambier. Separate outbreaks at Kilmore and Sey·
mour joined and devastated the country between the Goulburn and Crooked
rivers. Cinders fell on ships in Bass Strait and a heavy haze settled on Tasmania's
northern coast. Through poor communications, it was days before Melbourne
people realised the full extent of the disaster. In fact, the full effect of the fires
was never documented.
During the next 90 years fires continued to plague the State. On January
13, 1897, fires swept through western and northern Victoria and outbreaks, which
burnt for a week in Gippsland, destroyed Neerim South and Thorpdale. However,
it was not until Black Friday, January 13, 1939, that conditions were again ripe
for another major disaster.
WALK
Page
Thirty-one
For a sober, yet moving account of what happened that day we need go
no further than the official report of the Royal Commission into the '39 fires.
The report reads:"These fires were lit by the hand of man.
"They occurred towards the end of a severe, hot, dry summer, with a
State-wide water shortage. On Friday, January 13, fires buring separately all
over the State since December, joined forces in a devastating confluence.
Seventy-one lives were lost, sixty-nine timber mills burned and millions of
acres of forest of incalculable value were destroyed. Townships were obliterated
in a few minutes. Men and animals were incinerated or asphyxiated by the
scorching, debilitating air.
"On Black Friday, it appeared the whole State was alight. At midday,
in many places, it was as dark as night. Men, carrying hurricane lamps, worked
to make safe their families and belongings. Travellers were trapped and
perished on the highways. Throughout the land there was daytime darkness.
At one mill, desperate but futile efforts were made to clear inflammable scrub
from around the mill and settlement. All but one person at that mill perished,
many of them while trying to burrow to imagmed safety in the sawdust heap
(one victim had wrapped him arms and legs around a small tree in agony as
the fire swept over him. Firefighters prized the body from the tree). Horses
were found still harnessed in their stalls, dead; their limbs fantastically contorted. The full story of this small community is one of unpreparedness and
perhaps of something worse.
"Steel girders and machinery were twisted by heat as if they were of fine
wire. Sleepers of heavy durable timber, set in soil, their tops flush with the
surface of the ground, were burnt through. Other heavy woodwork disappeared
without trace. Where the fire was most intense, the soil was burnt and destroyed
to such a depth that it may be many years before it shall be restored by the
slow chemistry of nature. Acres upon acres of the soil itself can only be retained by the effort of man in a fight against natural erosive forces.
"The speed of the fires was appalling. They leapt from mountain peak to
mountain peak and far out into the lower country, lighting the forests six
or seven miles in advance. Balls of crackling flame sped in advance of the main
fire consuming all that they touched with a roaring, explosive noise. The fires
were driven by a wind of great force. Such was the force of this wind that in
many places hundreds of trees of great size were blown clear of the earth,
tons of soil with embedded masses of rock still adhering to the roots. For mile
upon mile the former forest monarches were laid in confusion, burnt, torn from
the earth and piled one upon another as matches strewn by a giant hand."
What a frightening toll for human carelessness-and it can happen again.
Under certain conditions our forest becomes a huge bomb, with every valley and
hollow full of highly-inflammable gases. A high temperature and very low humidity can cause relatively low temperature vaporization of oils in the eucalypts and
many varieties of oily undergrowth which clothe the forest floors. Add a
scorching north wind and the stage is set for a catastrophe.
Remember the verdict of the 1939 Royal Commission. Make sure your
hands are not responsible for another Black Friday.
DIRECTION FINDING DE LUXE
The German firm of Telefunken has produced a portable direction finder
for marching, boating and rescue work (to quote their claim). It weighs about
2t lb., although there is some doubt whether this includes batteries, and has
subminiature tubes as well as transistors. No reasons are given for thus making
it a "mixed" set. It can receive Morse or radiotelephone signals as well as take
bearings on transmitters. The usable frequency range is from 57 kcs. to 20 mcs.,
which is covered in ten steps by means of plug-in interchangeable coil cartridges.
As far as we can gather the R.D.F. indication is by means of a largish wrist
watch meter with the antenna spread over the shoulders and back of the
user, somewhat like a pair of braces. A lightweight pair of earphones is provided
also. So if you think your weight-carrying capacity is of the same order as your
capacity for getting lost, this is just the thing for you.
Page Thirty-twa
W A L K
~06ciu6ko=' eompari60K6
Norm. Ricltards.
It was eight or nine years since I'd been in the Kossi area. In those
days the Snowy hydro scheme was hardly a sneer on the face of its doughtiest
opponents. Now it was becoming an accomplished fact, and I was keen to
see what inroads it had made on the remote beauty of Australia's highest
plateau. Generations of Victorian walkers had come out of the valleys of the
Murray and Snowy rivers, and from the distant plains of Omeo, bound for
the Elysian heights of Kosciusko.
True, the advent of the motor road from Jindabyne had lessened the
impact of the actual summit a little; but it had come to be accepted as a minor
annoyance. Most of the year it was snowbound, and even during the short
alpine summer from January to March it often drifted up; and a few yards
of snow will stop the best car. So the walker and skier were free to enjoy
the solitude of the peaks and the panoramic sweep of the six thousand foot
plateau studded with the thousand-foot-high knobs of rock which form its
many peaks. A well-organized trip with good camp sites planned ahead, and
a little luck with the weather, assured a memorable experience to any walker;
a trip with the maximum enjoyment and minimum effort (if you survived the first
few days climbing to the heights).
Now . . . The Hydro scheme had come, and with it crowds of people,
great masses of equipment, and lots of organization. Any of these is enough
to chill the bones of any self-respecting walker, the three together wouldn't
bear thinking about. And so now I was going to see this charilber of horrors
for myself.
The sequel is past history as far as I am concerned, and I had no
intention of writing about it until a short time ago when I had passed on to
me a C.S.I.R.O. publication giving some details of research work being carried
out in the Snowy Mountain area. This brought the realization that the bad old
days of blindly blundering ahead with 'improvement' schemes are rapidly being
left behind us. It made me sit and think, and left me with very little horror
of the activity which had taken place.
My earliest acquaintanceship with Dead Horse Gap had been made from
the south, via the Cobberas and the Pilot. On a snowy, misty Christmas day
we had followed the ridge from Cascades, with low visibility and many misgivings as to whether we were on the track, and were right in the Gap before
we were sure of its identity. Now things are different; a crop of direction posts
and a huge sign left no room for doubt as to where we were. From the Gap
the old familiar scenes prevailed as we plodded our way past the Ramshead,
on and upward to Kosciusko. An odd cairn here and there was all we saw
of the SMHEA until we met a bulldozed track beside Lake Cootapatamba,
right under the shoulder of Kossie. Along the main ridge from Kossie to
Jagungal there is little change to be seen except a couple of jeep tracks which
cross the ridge beyond Dickie Cooper's Bogong and along the valley of the
Valentine. Off the ridge there are tracks between the Blue Lake and the Chalet
at Charlotte Pass, and brightly painted gauging stations can be seen on some
of the streams. There is little else and no despoilation, if one is prepared to
overlook the growing ski village on the slopes above Lake Albina. Actually
this area is large enough to tum the other cheek to any damage so far suffered.
The Spencer Creek area is, of course, the site of a large dam; but otherwise
it is not until we reach White's River hut that we come across the unmistakable
'power scheme' touch; the huge steel pipe line which stretches down the valley
to the Munyang power station on the Snowy River. Westward the jeep track
crosses the ridge north of Dickie Cooper's Bogong passing about a quarter of a
mile north of that gentleman's old hut and then heading to a crossing of the
Valentine above the falls. As in the past, those who wanted to see these still
had to scrub bash down to them. The Upper Valentine and Tooma each sport
their jeep tracks; but there is really little else to be seen of the SMHEA until
WALK
Page Thirty-three
the track down the Khancoban Creek is reached on the ridge beyong Pretty
Plains. Which all adds up to a general impression that although a little of the
feeling of remoteness may have been lost, the high plateau of Kosciusko has
been little changed in its essentials by the effects of the Snowy scheme.
And this brings us back to the track we were on previously, the efforts of
C.S.I.R.O. in the area. The Hydro-Electric Authority appears to have made
effective efforts to keep overt interference with the natural features to a minimum,
and, where possible, even to enhance the surroundings. For instance, in a
number of places, particularly between Mts. Kosciusko and Townsend they have
installed extensive areas of anti-erosion netting.
OPEN AND SHELTERED AREAS NEAR GUTHEGA DAM
-Courtesy N.R.C.L.
In this matter of conservation of water catchments, the C.S.I.R.O. is now
co-operating on a major scale. A station has been established on the Kosciusko
road from where a field study of the ecology of the alpine plant communities is
being conducted. Australia's biggest rivers, the Murray, Murrumbidgee and
Snowy rise near there, and of course, most Victorian rivers rise in similar
country. It is also the area where most C.S.I.R.O. rainmaking experiments have
been made.
They are studying the story of the streams. In the dark, dead (we hope)
past, the high plains were grazed, and burnt over many times so that old
growth was destroyed to make way for new grass to titillate the appeties
of the cattle. This process also destroyed many useful plants and led to erosion,
for a few showers of rain can soon wreak havoc on the bare countryside before
new growth takes place. Erosion on the highlands soon means siltation of
the dams lower down the streams; and a silted dam is of no use to anyone.
The millions spent of building it are lost.
In 1955, the C.S.I.R.O., Division of Plant Industry, with the encouragement
of the Snowy Mountains Hydro-Electric Authority and the Australian Primary
Producers' Union, appointed an officer to study the ecology of the alpine areas.
This was followed in 1957 by a committee of the Australian Academy of Sciences,
which was formed to report on land use in alpine catchments. Among its
members was Mr. A. Costin, the C.S.I.R.O. ecologist, and their report included
two main recommendations, 'that grazing be excluded from all land above
an altitude of 4500 feet, and that no burning-off be permitted in this region.'
It has been established that retention of the actual vegetation is the most
Page Thirty-four
WALK
efficient way of preserving the alpine catchments. A froper plant cover not
only prevents erosion by cushioning the impact o rain and wind, but
also serves to slow the flow of water into the streams. This is accomplished
in two ways; directly by interfering with the surface flow, and indirectly by
keeping the soil firm but friable, so that it serves as a huge sponge into which
the water is absorbed, and later released over a long period. An important
secondary effect is that at periods of maximum flow water does not overfill
the dams and flow to waste over the spillways. The research has also shown that
vegetation is equally important in the retention of snow. Dry snow behaves
COLLECTING TRAY AND COLLAR BENEATH SNOWGUMS
-Courtesy N.R.C.L.
like sand, and trees prevent it being blown away by the wind. They also shade
it from melting by the sun. In the Guthega area between 1956 and 1960 it
was shown that retention could be improved 100 per cent. and the snow also
retained longer. Water yield is also higher in the presence of trees, as anyone
who has been among trees in heavy mist will testify with every drip that gets
down the neck. Exotic plants have proved less effective than the natural alpine
flora. Even conifers are no more effective than our own hardy snow gums.
Apparently the natural vegetation is more suited to the prevailing freeze-thaw
pattern of our hi~hlands. The research unit is not only establishing the reasons
for existing conditions, but is also studying methods. They are gathering data
on conditions during the past, and have even collected pollen and wood remains
from the bottom of the glacial lakes by use of frogman techniques, so that the
ecological history of the region can be carried as far as possible into the past.
All who have been privileged to enjoy their walking over a number of
years have many times felt sad at the deterioration of the countryside as time
has passed and land use increased, and Government departments have not
been the least among the despoilers. The magnitude of such undertakings as
the Snowy scheme necessarily makes some impression upon the landscape and
ecology of any region; but there is now a more enlightened approach and a
desire to keep disturbances to a minimum. Above all, modern research is
tending to show that, although individual motives may differ, the long-term
goal of all should be to do our best to create conditions such that Nature can
tend to the preservation of our resources. A trip through the high country
of Kosciusko leaves one with hope for the future.
WALK
Page Thirty-five
<=Varietv i6 the Spice eJ £,iJe
G. C. Errey.
Perhaps one would think from the many food lists published that food
on an extended walking trip must, by necessity, be monotonous. If imagination is used however, this IS not the case. I remember my first extended trip
well, when through lack of experience meals were umnteresting and dull. Since
then, by watching walkers cook and listening to them talk many interesting ideas
have been added to my list.
Have you ever tried hamburgers-made by chopping ham very fine and
mixing this with boiled dehydrated onions? This mixture when fried in the
pan really makes you glad you're hungry. I always carry dried vegetables in
separate bags so that I may have a change of vegetables at the evening meal,
which is not possible if mixed dried vegetables are taken. Omelettes are a
pleasant change and are simple to make. Mix cooked smoked ham and potato
with powdered egg and a little water, then fry the mixture, being careful not
to bum it. Although the quantities quoted are adequate, don't be afraid to
take a few little extras, such as curry and mixed herbs, they weigh very little
and can turn the most uninteresting stew into a meal fit for a king.
Custard powder is very useful and thick rich custard makes the world of
difference to boiled apricots and apples. Instant puddings are also worth while
taking. Think twice about taking flour, however. Flour is heavy and bulky in
relation to food value. Pancakes, dampers and scones, etc., are all right on
short trips but can easily be done without in the bush on a long trip. For the
first three or four days I usually take rye bread and finish the trip with
Vim-0-Weet biscuits, or similar to avoid monotony.
Remember, margarine keeps much better than butter and does not melt
so easily in hot weather. When buying powdered milk for a trip, try if possible
to obtain powdered milk which will mix easily in cold water. The advantages
are obvious. Cheese added to some dishes adds flavour and for a change should
be considered.
Rice is probably the most versatile of all foods carried by the bushwalker.
It can be mixed with salmon, cheese, curry, etc.; or as a sweet may be creamed
by adding milk and sugar. Boiled apples mixed with rice is very appetising.
Bill Harney, the well-known Central Australian identity has written a cook book
and one recipe which most walkers should enjoy is called "Spotted Slut." This
dish consists of boiled rice and a few sultanas; despite the name is an excellent
sweet and once you've tried it you'll want more.
If, on a long trip, you have a day to rest up, this is a good time to make
jelly. Made the previous night and left in a shallow part of a stream it will
be ready for lunch next day. Although low in food value it can, none-the-less,
make a welcome change. If you are in a hurry one morning, or you can't be
bothered lighting a fire, try eating oats uncooked as you would a breakfast
cereal, with milk and sugar and a few sultanas. Small pieces of chocolate added
to porridge improves it considerably. One member of the club eats porridge
fried, I haven't tried this myself, but judging by the expression on his face
when he eats it, it can't be too bad.
Sometimes fresh food may be available. On arriving at Wonnangatta station
site on one trip our party swooped on a cherry tree and that night stewed
cherries were on the menu. At Pretty Plains hut, at the end of a trip from
Mt. Kosciusko one year, our party found onions growing near the hut The
onions found their way into the stew, providing a welcome change of diet. All
this prompts me to ask a question. Why don't we walkers plant fruit trees
and vegetables in some of the well-known camp sites when we pass through?
They would need to be hardy to withstand the heat of summer and the cold
of winter, but maybe one day fresh vegetables on a long trip could be a
reality.
Finally, when cooking in the bush, if possible light your fire as soon
as you make camp so that by the time you are ready to cook the fire will be
mostly hot coals. This is one of the big secrets of successful bush cooking. And
don't forget, use your imagination and experiment often.
Page Thirty-six
W A L K
earli6Le'6 Stabled
M.L.V.
During a recent holiday at Mount Buffalo, I had the opportunity to visit
Carlisle's Old Stables, situated on the old pack-horse track which led from
Porpunkah to the Mount Buffalo plateau.
The original route on to the Plateau was from the Buckland Valley, up
Goldie's Spur, and on to the Plateau near the area under the Horn known
as the Back Wall. This is at the southern tip of the plateau and the new packhorse track was built at the northern end. It was built, some sixty or seventy
years ago, at a total cost of £60, and has not been used since the 1920's when
the new road was built.
OVENS VALLEY FROM MT. BUFFALO
-Courtesy N.R.C.L.
The present road follows the old track almost exactly as far as Stakers'
Lookout, 12-!- miles from Porpunkah, and then crosses the track again at the 16mile post, and at the Gap. From the point where the track and the road
diverge the track goes almost straight uphill, until they meet again.
Only three-quarters of an hour's ride from the Chalet and five minutes' walk
from a permanent stream, the stables are in a relatively open, reasonably flat
area. Formed of a large overhanging rock, with the ends and part of the front
built up with earth and rocks, they made a weatherproof shelter for about
twelve horses. A feed trough and hitching rail inside completed the job. Part
of the walls and the charred hitching rail are all that now remain of a once
very busy place. Now, about four to five inches of rubble covers the floor
and the walls have partly collapsed due to neglect, fire, weather and time.
A member of the previous party to visit the stables had found a sovereign
amongst the rubbish on the floor (the stable hands used to be paid and tipped
in gold coin). Although we searched for quite some time we were not so
lucky. However, we did find a large (empty, alas) whisky bottle, a bottle of
patent cough mixture (likewise empty) and many piece of charred leather,
rusty buckles, horse shoe nails and an old horse shoe.
W A L K
Page
Thirty-seven
The
€Lement6
"J '11lap CR.eaJin9
W. I. Thompson.
First of all-"What is a map ?"
A map may be very simply described as a pictorial representation of the
Earth's suiface. Here we immediately strike trouble as the Earth is round, with
mountains, valleys and rivers on its surface, whereas a piece of paper is flat.
Obviously then we must find some easily understood method of representing these
features. There are a number of different ways of doing this, they are called
projections. The most common and the most easily read is called Mercator's
Transverse Projection and this is the system with which we are most familiar,
the one used by the Army and by the Department of Lands and Survey.
A map consists of two parts-the main map drawing and the border information, and both parts are equally important. The information printed in the
border shows as its most important items the name, scale and north direction of
the map. Also shown are:
Cartographer and/or draftsman.
Date of compilation.
Key to adjoining maps.
Legend (explanation of various symbols).
Variations between grid, magnetic and true north (the difference between the two latter is called the magnetic declination)
Datum point, to which all positions are referred.
It is important to know the purpose for which a map was prepared. Thus
a motoring map, while admirable for showing main and secondary roads, shows
almost no ridges, spurs, streamflow, etc., and so is almost useless for bushwalking
purposes. It is also important to know the datum point, i.e., the base level used
when quoting the heights of mountains, contours, etc. In Victoria it is generally
low water mark at Williamstown Pier, Melbourne.
The scale, or size of, features on the map compared with actual physical
features, is most important. On most maps it is near the legend and is represented by a divided line and lettered, say, 1 inch to 1 mile. It is also represented
somewhere at the top of the map by a ratio figure, such as 1 : 63,360. The first
is called a scale line and the second a Representative Fraction. The scale line may
be say, five inches long, in alternate black and white for each inch. Usually the
first section is subdivided into quarters or eighths for small measurements.
Its use shows that one inch on the map equals one mile of actual country, etc.
The R.F. means that one inch of map equals 63,360 inches of country, or one
mile; one foot on the map equals 63,360 feet of country, or twelve miles. It is
then merely a matter of simple measurement to calculate the approximate ground
distance of the trip-approximate because you can't measure up and down hills.
There is almost a bewildering array of maps available. Those used most
frequently in bushwalking are issued by the Army, Department of Lands and
Survey, Forestry Commission and walking clubs. There are also Mines Department sketches, and parish maps, apart from those issued as road maps. Unfor·
tunately, no series, either alone or combined, covers Victoria in detail. Army
maps and some of the Lands Department issues are in the inch-to-the-mile
series, others from the Lands Department are "quarter sections" of the same
areas, being two inches to the mile. Forestry maps and those issued by walking
clubs vary, but are generally inch to the mile or larger.
It was said that a map should show the direction of north, but the question
arises-"which north ?" In the case of the Army maps there are three of them,
magnetic, true and grid. Magnetic shows the direction of the north magnetic pole,
which is situated in the Viscount Melville Sound, in Canada, and it is this to
which a compass needle will point. True north is the direction of the geographical
pole. One line, usually in the centre of the map, is drawn to show true north
and a series of parallel lines show grid north. In the centre of the map there
is no variation between the true and the grid north, but at the edge of the map
there can be quite a detectable difference. However, for our purposes it is
insignificant.
Page Thirty-eight
WALK
There is, however, an obvious difference between magnetic and true north
and this is important. The difference is called the magnetic variation or declin·
ation and it varies over the world. Maps showing these variations are available.
Unfortunately the magnetic pole tends to wander and so the declination also
varies from year to year. At present the variation for Melbourne is lO"E.
As navigation in the country even by those with a well-developed "bush sense"
is best done by compass it is necessary when quoting a bearing or line of march to
take account of this variation and state whether it refers to true or magnetic
north. e.g. 249 magnetic, 259 true. To convert one to the other requires
addition or subtraction as the case may be.
In Victoria the magnetic north is 1o• east of the true north, hence to convert a magnetic bearing to a true bearing it is necessary to add to•. There are
two types of compass which may be used to take these readings-the swinging
needle and the floating card. The first is the simpler and cheaper and consists of
a needle, generally with black and silver opposite points, pivoted above a card.
On the card the 360 degrees of the circle or the 32 points of the mariner's
compass (or both) are shown and all are housed in a brass box. Sometimes the
needle is "damped" by being immersed in a fluid. A good example of this
compass is the Swedish "Silva", while the floating card type is best exemplified
by the Army prismatic. In the latter the card, graduated in degrees, is mounted
on a pivot over the needle, either dry or fluid damped, and rotates as the
compass box is rotated. A small prism assists in reading the figures while
taking a sighting.
A map must tell us if the ground is flat or hilly, and how high the hills
are. This may be done in four ways; hill shadin~, layer tinting, hachuring and
contouring. Hill shading assumes a light to be shining from the top left comer
of the map and ranges of hills are portrayed by a lighter colour adjoined by
shadows over the crest "away from the li~ht". This method is indefinite, and
inadequate for our purposes. Layer tintmg is the familiar system used in
school atlases, showing, say, green for heights 0-500 feet, yellow for 5001000 feet, blue 1000-1500 feet, etc. This method is also inadequate. The
third method, hachuring, is very commonly used on club-produced maps.
Mountain ranges are shown as herringbone lines and relative steepness is
denoted by short close parallel lines for very steep inclines with longer,
splayed lines for gentler slopes. By far the best and most accurate method is
contouring. Points of equal height above a datum level are linked by lines called
contours. The contour intervals are usually 50, 100, or 250 feet depending
on the scale of the map. Under this system a conical hill is shown as a series
of concentric circles. In steep country the contour lines are very close together
and on the plains they are openly spaced. By inspection we can get a
very complete picture of the country from these contours.
However, by themselves contours are of limited use and require two further
features; contour levels showing heights above sea level at the datum point, and
streamflow patterns. In looking at a stream or river on a map it must be
remembered that water flows downhill. Thus a system of U-shaped contour
lines with a stream flowing out of the mouth of the system indicates a
symmetrical valley with a stream rising at its head. After only a little practice it
is quite easy to read a streamflow map which has no contours at all. If, on such
a mal', we see two stream heads close together with their waters flowing in
opposite directions, it is quite obvious that there must be a ridge between
Two more or less parallel streams joining a larger stream at ri~ht angles
indicates a main arm of a valley with a smaller side spur descendmg to the
valley floor between the two streams. Straight stream lines indicate swift creeks
tumbling down steep valleys, meandering creeks show relatively flat valley floors.
To describe the location of a given point two methods are used. The first,
which is suitable only for less precise use is as used in most street directories.
There are numbers along one edge of the map and letters along the other, so
that the location may then be described as, say, E8. That is, it is somewhere
near the intersection of the vertical and horizontal lines from the marginal references. This can lead to inaccuracies and confusion. The other more accurate
system is really only a refinement of this and is the one adopted by the Army
and the Department of Lands and Survey. They use a grid-a system of vertical
and horizontal lines drawn over a large area. Numbers are allotted to these
lines, the same numbers re-occurring only after a 60-mile interval, hence conW A L K
Page Thirty-nine
fusion cannot readily result. The Army inch-to-the-mile series has squares of
1000 yards. In describing a location, called "giving a grid reference," these
squares are again mentally divided into ten sections. In Australia these grid
lines are measured from a point of origin situated in the ocean west of Cape
Leewin, W.A. The method of finding a grid reference is best illustrated by an
example. To locate the railway station at Hurstbridge on the Yan Yean .Army
Survey map by this system first consider the horizontal system of numbers.
Starting at the left find the two grid lines between which it occurs. In this case
they are 21 and 22. Now estimate its distance along this line, i.e., about ninetenths, this part of the number is then 219. This is called "easting". Now
"northing" is carried out in a similar way, starting at the bottom and moving
up the map. This results in the number 577, thus giving the complete grid reference of 219577. By this method greater accuracy is achieved and duplication
avoided.
These are the facts - the only way to successfully learn them is to put
them into practice constantly.
'new
'-l11,ap6
FEATHERTOP - HOTHAM DIVIDE
Melbourne Bushwalkers
1 Mile to :Z Inches
This is a streamflow map of part of Feathertop A and C, published by the
Lands Department, taking in the approaches to Feathertop by way of Freeburgh,
Harrietville or Hotham. It has the edge of the Bogong High Plains and the
Painters on its eastern boundary.
A very useful map for those visiting this beautiful mountain.
Date Compiled: 1961.
WARBURTON-POWELLTOWN AREA.
Melbourne Bushwalkers
1 Mile to :Z Inches
This map was compiled to cover a popular walkin~ area which is included
in Gembrook A and B of the lands Department. It 1s contoured in 200-foot
intervals and includes the latest forestry roads and firelines. Boundaries: Yarra
Junction, Warburton, High Lead and Powelltown.
Date Compiled: 1961.
WILSON'S PROMONTORY
Melbourne Bushwalkers
1 Mile to 1 Inch
As the whole area of the Prom. is covered in this map, it is only necessary
to carry one map, instead of the two provided by the Lands Department.
Although uncontoured, tracks, streamflow and features are clearly marked,
making this a very useful map of a well-loved area.
Date Compiled : 1962.
MALLACOOTA-NADGEE.
Melbourne Bushwalkers
1 Mile to 1 Inch
This map should prove very useful to those visiting this area, as information
was gathered from many sources and was hard to find. The area covered is
the extreme south-east corner of Australia, along the border of Victoria and
N.S.W., the northern extremity is Timbillica. The N.S.W. part of the area is a
National Park. The map is not contoured, but is liberally marked with natural
features and spot heights, which serve well in an area where contour lines
would be far apart.
Date Compiled: 1962.
KIEWA SCHEME AND HOTHAM HEIGHTS.
Robinson's.
1 Mile to li Inch.
Road map, showing Mt. Bogong, Mt. Beauty, Bright, Harrietville, Hotham,
the Bogong High Plains, including the area around the Rocky Valley storage.
Seems to be based on the Lands Department quarter maps with scale reduced.
Price 4/-.
Page Forty
W A L K
~\lrebira
A.B.
-Courtesy F.N.C.V.
Have you ever been looking for lyrebirds
On a windy winter's day ?
You'll find them in Sherbrooke Forest,
Near Belgrave, up Upwey way.
You'll hear a kookaburra
Stop halfway through his call;
And then a whip, and then a twit,
-It isn't him at all !
Young "Spotty" likes to dance
Conceited as can be;
Practising for the morrow,
Beneath a tall gum tree.
Through a break in the bracken
A flurry of feathers we see,
And a pert yellow-breasted robin
Looks at us inquisitively.
It's fun taking photos of lyrebirds,
And tape-recording their song;
But you must be quick with the camera,
And the stick for the speaker, long.
We walk down through a creek-bed,
And squelch along in the mud,
And someone takes some photos;
Mud's great for cooling the blood!
WALK
Page
Forty-one
OUR TREES.
Quoting from the Foreword: "This booklet is issued by the Forests
Commission of Victoria to aid bushwalkers, boy scouts, and all those other
members of the community who would be interested to probe a little deeper
than just to accept our forest trees as being either "gums" "wattles" or the
bush." It is not a key to the separation of the many and varied species of
eucalypts and acacias, but it does set out the simple elements of botanical
significance and how to recognize them. Armed with such knowledge and
fortified by practice, our reader can refer with confidence to more advanced
works on the subject." The forty-page booklet has many full-size illustrations
of eucalpyt buds, fruit and leaves and two maps of Victoria showing reserved
and protected forests, and zones of occurrence of principal forest types. At
moderate cost this is a booklet of interest to all nature lovers.
An Introduction to Victorian Forest Trees.
Published by Forests Commission of Victoria.
Price 4/-.
STRZLECKI.
Walkers, and indeed all those living in southern Australia, cannot fail to be
aware of the enormous part played in the exploration of the area by Count Paul
Edmund Strzlecki. His name is commemorated in Gippsland and his namings
frequently appear. This book gives us an insight into the life of this man and
we emerge realizing, to quote the author, that he was ·•Jess suitable for hero
worship and more entitled to pity." Although gifted and charming he neverthe-less possessed a warped and unhappy streak that forced him to persistently
exchange things of permanent value for those which were hollow and worthless.
This book is a vivid re-creation of place and period allowing us to see that
setting in which his explorations were carried out.
In a Dark Glass-The Story of Paul Edmund Strzlecki. By H. M. E. Heney.
Published by Angus & Robertson Ltd., Melbourne.
Price 45/-.
THE MALLEE FOWL.
There has been considerable concern recently over the plight of the
Mallee Fowl with the continuing encroachment of civilization upon its habitat.
This bird is one of our unique possessions, one of its curious features being
that it builds its own incubator for its eggs which it manages somehow to
keep always at the right temperature and humidity. The chicks struggle
through three feet of sand and humus to reach the surface. Mr. H. J. Frith,
the author of this fascinating book, is well qualified to write upon the subject
as he has spent many years of research into the habits of the birds, and indeed his
work is regarded as a research classic. He is now the Officer-in-Charge of the
Wildlife Survey Section of C.S.I.R.O. following a keen interest in natural history
from boyhood, and his work will do much to save this bird from extinction.
The Mallee Fowl. By H. J. Frith.
Published by Angus & Robertson Ltd., Melbourne.
Price 35/.
ANTARCTICA.
Those who know John Bechervaise from his walking in the Victorian
countryside will be interested to read his account of his work in the Antarctic
where he has spent four out of the past seven years. This book is a good introduction to this area; it covers not only the geographical features but also
the life led by the men stationed there.
The Far South. By John Bechervaise.
Published by Angus & Robertson Ltd .. Melbourne.
Price 21/·
Page Forty-two
W A L K
CUMBING.
This book is largely recollections of the author's own thousand and one
mistakes made during his conversion from a very new school boy rambler to an
accomplished mountaineer.
Firstly, he deliberately leaves the main party, then trusts his own thoughts
in strange snow country rather than the compass; fortunately survivin~ both
escapades. Then he started thinking about his climbing and now gtves us
some of these thoughts on such basic equipment as clothing and boots. Rock
climbing comes in for a close scrutiny with notes on screen slopes, up and down,
how not to climb and how to climb correctly and safely finishing with the
sound advice-"Think first." "Winter climbing" scratches the surface of a vast
subject of ice and snow work. Many other subjects, such as map reading, course
findinl!, equipment, food, etc., are dealt with, and although written with an
"Enghsh" slant, there is a wealth of universal information. There are also
some delightful pen drawings.
Tackle Climbing This Way. By John Disley.
Published by Stanley, Paul & Co., London.
W.I.T.
AUSTRALIAN TALES.
Here we have a collection of Australian tales which will convince the
reader that our country has had exciting times in its discovery and settlementequally as exciting as any we may have seen on the T.V. screen from the home of
Frontier tales, the (now) United States. The stories come from the pens of such
well-know writers as Ion ldriess, Henry Lawson, Ernestine Hill, Banjo Paterson
and Marcus Clarke.
Treasury of Australian Frontier Tales. Ed. by Bill Wannan.
Published by Lansdowne Press Pty. Ltd., Melbourne.
Price 35/.
NATURE BOOKS.
The Jacaranda Press are continuing their series of handy booklets that
will not only be of great interest to bush-loving bushwalkers, but will also be
small enough to carry around in the pack. They treat in a simple fashion the
more common marsipials, birds, snakes and lizards and trees that may be
seen whilst on the track, and illustrate each one with a black and white photograph to help in on-the-spot identification.
Some Bush Birds of Australia. By Allen Keast.
Some Trees of Australia. By H. Oakman.
Marsupials of Australia. By Basil J. Marlow.
Some Common Snakes and Lizards. By D. R. McPhee.
Published by Jacaranda Press, Brisbane.
Price 13/6.
Everything seems to be coming pressure-packed these days, and recently
we saw some tent WATERPROOFING to add to the list. It was in the window
of a Disposals store and was called Evadry. Seemed a terrific idea, cut out
that waterproofin~ treatment that your clothes also receive the other way.
Only drawback mtght be cost if large quanties required.
Read a suggestion recently for MAKING YOUR OWN dehydrated vegetables. All you have to do it to mince or grate them up, put them on paper,
then leave them in a warm oven till they are properly dry. After they are cool,
sto.re them in 8!1 airtight jar. Suggested vegetables are celery, carrots, turnips,
oruons or parsntps.
Replace firewood in huts.
WALK
Page Forty-three
COME
OUTDOORS
WITH
THE
YOUTH
HOSTELS
Association
161
Flinders
Lane
MF 3754
*
(
(
(
*
HOSTELLING
BUSHWALKING
i
\
I
CANOEING
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WATERSKIING
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( SURFING
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SKIING
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RIDING
Page Forty-four
WALK
'-13u61twalkiK9
-
A PHILOSOPHICAL RECREATION - FOR SOME.
Lance Taylor.
At the outset, I must remind the reader that this following sketch of some
aspects of bushwalking is one of layman's inspiration and achievement; my
interest in the recreation is great, but my performance perfunctory-a very
occasional one-day walk of less than medium difficulty is an average performance,
my most spectacular "coup de pied en promenade" being last Christmastide's nine-day mountain exploit (or so it seemed, for I confess I did very
little but ascend and descend what later turned out to be some of the loftiest
mounts in the State) .
The reasonableness of these sundry thoughts should be assessed in the
li~t of this above-mentioned feat, without which they would fail to be sigmficant.
The most outstanding feature of bushwalking is its paradox: one cannot
enjoy the bush whilst walking in it, and a moment's reflection will support
thts suggestion. The walker has neither time nor energy to diligently survey
the passing scenery; a humble glance and passing reflection does scant justice
to the beauty of our Australian bush, but unfortunately the humble glance is
about all the walker may afford himself. Walking downhill, and the contemplation of a splendid peak co-exist very uneasily. The burdening of a heavy
pack and the climbing of steep hills demand such a physical effort that the
mind thinks of other things, readily devouring anything but the present activity
of walking. The mind perhaps wanders back to the city, to past and coming events
-one step nearer to a sensibly relaxed holiday. My Christmas walk reflections ran
something like this: "One step nearer to the Gold Coast, one more scrap of
suntan, one more little muscle (surely) and one less ounce of fat." Indeed, bushwalking is the secular counterpart of a religious work of supererogation. This
mental accumulation of strictly non-rural merits afforded by the walk was a
vital sustaining factor in MY Christmas walk at least, and I suspect that the
almost inevitable "yet another 2 ozs. less of dehys. to lug" at the end of every
bush meal confirms my comment. The comforting tit-bits are climaxed in the
most absurd of all deceptions-the theorizing of "Well that was pleasant-a new
experience which will doubtless prove to be valuable in later years." This
assessment of a damnably hard day's slogging as a "rewarding experience" is
a blatant rationalization-a hymn of praise that one has arrived at camp
and successfully tucked out of sight yet another 15 miles of fatigue. In the
haste of setting camp and preparing food, and the lustful anticipation of the
same, the walker very easily minimizes (or more usually) dismisses altogether,
the many discomforts of the day. At the conclusion of the walk the walker's
fondest memories will highlight the pleasant portions of the trip.
A "maximum quantity" of theory of pleasure (the only realistic one)
suggests that this sort of rationalization is false and as such deceptive. The
great proportion of a day's walking is far from pleasurable.
The second point of the paradox is that there can be no enjoyment of
walking whilst in the bush. The act of walking, of keeping to a time schedule,
cancels out the enjoyment which bushwalking was designed to provide. But
what is the essence of pleasureable bushwalking-the act of walking or the
appreciation of the bush country which walking enables one to see-or perhaps
a synthesis of the two ?
I reject all three possibj)jties and forward a further and entirely different
notion. Full enjoyment from bushwalking can only be got by those with a
philosophically totally perceived and forward looking consciousness. This seems
to be a very obtuse concept, but it is the briefest statement I can give to a clear
but difficult idea. Very briefly, this is the ability to see from without, a physiological entity (oneself-the walker) adapting, manipulating and transcending
both himself and the flora and fauna, the mountains and rivers, and above all,
the dimensions which go to make up the bush.
WALK
Page Forty-five
In mentioning this essence of pleasurable bushwalking, I have used several
words which one would not normally associate with the recreation. Rationalization has already been mentioned. Transcendentalism (the non-religious variety)
is necessary for the fulfilment of this philosophical approach to bushwalking.
The walker, if he uses the correct mental methods can become in a very real
sense, a bush patriarch having geographical dominion over the bush country:''That tree is very high . • . a mountain ash, too. My word, it really is
incredibly high. In one more mile, I shall have walked fifty mountain ashes
and two thousand pea plants, which I see cover over a half of the hill, which
is really quite small in comparison with that big one which we climbed two
days ago . . . fancy just two days ago . . . how far we have come since then.
Look, there it is on the horizon . . . just two days . . . well that's surely two
thousand pea plants, but scarcely fifty mountain ashes. I never suspected that it
would be simple . . . indeed, a 'piece of cake'. And so with the continued reiteration of past achievement and present endeavour, and a contrasting of the
two, the philosophical bushwalker is very soon mentally "moving mountains."
This illustrates the process of manipulation. All the true "objective" dimensions of the natural objects, such as mountains and valleys, are whittled down
and changed beyond recognition.
Play acting is another feature of successful bushwalking. During the last
Christmas walk, the small party was temporarily fearful of a prolonged drought
incident. The "dry" portion of the walk was certainly inconvenient, but a delightful episode nonetheless. Anyway, the hardship was put to good effect,
and I for one enjoyed it immensely. Very soon, I was Sturt, Stuart, Hume and
Hovell, and Burke and Wills all in one, and 1 set myself the task of reserving
all strength for the oncoming difficulty, and gauging the possibilities of successful deliverance. Unfortunately, I was the only philosophical bushwalker in the
party-the others being less inclined to act out the tableau of a Centralian
desert exploration of fatigue and drought. Using difficulties and trying circumstances, the philosophical bushwalker creates a pleasurable occasion. Again this
is an example of manipulation-of minimizing the harshness of unpleasant facts.
Bushwalking covers a multitude of sins. From time to time I meet the
"religious" bushwalker who, when called to justify his absence from the Church's
worship, angrily replies: "I can worship more effectively in the beautiful bush".
He may even mumble something about the bush atmosphere as an "ultimate
reality." The dogmatist of this creed will further extend the fancy; he is the
person who sees himself as the real blithe spirit flitting about the forests in high
mystical contemplation. Many are deceived and laud their motives, whereas
in fact these people are no more religious than habitual church-attending old
ladies. God in nature is no more than a projection of the "religious" man's sense
of self-satisfaction: a charlatan's religion. I hope that there are no religious
persons in the Melbourne Bushwalkers.
The second sin (or rather deception) is that of seeing bushwalking as the
acme of spontaneous enjoyment. The propounder of this notion somehow contrives to forget the host of stored up tales and jokes to tell around the camp-fire,
and the reams of anticipated "shots," along with the misuse of bushwalking as
an athletic exercise. All these things are gems of intention, well thought out in
advance, and stored up in the mind of the walker eager to display them.
My final point is one of concession. Bushwalking is unquestionably a
pleasing pastime, but its pleasure is very hard to define, and as I have suggested,
seems to consist chiefly in paradoxes; the hardship, inconveniences and exhaustiton of this type of encounter with nature, produce just that pleasure which
sends people eagerly back for more.
At any rate, I certainly found my last Christmas walk worthwhile. I lost
twelve pounds in weight-a far more presentable sight for the golden beaches
of Manly and Surfer's Paradise.
[This magazine has often printed glowing stories by enthusiastic walkers.
Maybe this is another one; we are not quite sure! In any case, everyone will
read it with interest, although the enthusiasts will undoubtedly feel justified in
their scepticism coming from deeper knowledge.]
Page Forty·six
W A L K
Photo : GEOR.GE D. CARSON.
• •
WALK
Film : ILFOR.D HPJ Flat Flim
ILFORD
Page Farly-seven
Doug. Poeoek.
"Coming on the fixed camp Australia Day week-end? Where to? Down to
Parker River, at Cape Otway. Should be a good tum-short walks, fishing,
swimming, or what you want.
"Everybody O.K. ? Well the van will stop at Lome for a bite and a
drink, you can have the same if you want..
Out past Apollo Bay.
"Hey, what's that across the road ? Oh, no ! Everybody out and help
shift this damn tree. Mind your head while I slash this branch off. One ! two !
three! all together, hooray! Not much further now.
"O.K., here we are, those who go on ahead wait at the cliff top. That
light ? Cape Otway lighthouse. Down this track here, it's a bit awkward in
the dark.
SATURDAY:
"Coming for a walk to Blanket Bay, not far ? It will be along the rock
platform. Gee, isn't the spray terrific. Got your camera ready, here's a king-size
wave. Coming swimming after lunch ?-either the sea or the waterhole.
Look out! A tiger snake in the waterhole. Wow! Doug., you can swim
fast. Grab a lump of wood and clobber him. No, not Doug., the snake. What ?
It's gone, of course it's all right in. Pick teams for continuous cricket. O.K.,
you bat first. Run! Quick, next one. Look out!
"Give us a hand to get a good wood supply. Make way for Juno and her
ukelele. O.K.? 'There's a trade we all know well .. .' Hell, it's 12-see you
in the morning.''
SUNDAY:
"Coming for a walk to Cape Otway ? Gee, look at all those rockpools,
aren't they terrific? So this is Cape Otway. Coming into this cave? Wish I
had a torch. Look at the stalactites. O.K., back now before the tide comes in.
"Hey, Juno, there's a damn great stingray coming towards you. Wasn't there
just? We all saw it.
"That's the wreck of 'The City of Rayville,' must have been about 1870
or so. Look at that silly cow, she must have come down the cliff there, let's
try and get her above the tide mark. Shoo! Get along little, little dogie (I think
that's what they say). Hell ! They say sheep are stupid !
"Hey, youse mob, look over there. It's a seal! Good heavens, we've seen
everything. Gee, it's a beauty, How's the fishing, John ? No thanks, I don't
like eel. You know the local fishermen reckon the sharks come up in this inlet
to scratch themselves on the sand. Blow them. I think I'll stick to my tiger
snakes. Ow ! Watch my sunburn.
"Let's get another great stack of wood. 'Out on the boards the old shearer
stands ... ' You don't have to get up until late tomorrow.''
MONDAY:
"Set off when you're all ready. What ? It's damn heavy. Here's the van,
everybody here ? Let's go.
"Gee, it's dusty. We'll stop at Lome. O.K., an hour; try not to be longer.
You can have a swim and eat in that time. Who's the ruffian walking down the
street ? Looks like a tramp or something. Melbourne-here we come.
"Who's coming for a Chinese meal? See you all Friday.
"Well, thanks for a terrific week-end-we'll have to go again next summer.''
Always carry safety matches, compass and map-but never forget that no
map is perfect.
Page Forty-ei9ht
W A L K
s••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••~
ATTENTION I
WALKERS
CAMPERS
HOLIDAY MAKERS I
When looking for good, easy-to-prepare food which
is also light and compact for carrying, choose
''DEWCRISP"
Dehydrated Vegetables
All varieties of vegetables dehydrated in Tasmania
from highest quality farm-fresh supplies
I
Try uoewcrisp11 Soup Vegetables
Manufacturers-
DEWCRISP PRODUCTS LTD.
Scottsdale, Tasmania
····························--------················
WALK
Page Forty-nine
crl1ountain '111.udterO
FORESTRY ROADS continue their steady advance towards the summits.
Only a few years ago every change could be recorded in these notes; but now
they occur so swiftly that only the more notable can be mentioned. Among these
the past year or so has seen a great linking-up of tracks on the SNOWY
PLAINS, although in passing it should be mentioned that they all contain
sections rough, tough and steep enough to try the endurance of even the
best four-wheel-drive vehicles. The track from Licola up the Wellington
and over MT. TAMBORITHA now heads freely northward to Bryce's Plain,
and is joined at Kelly's Hut by one which has come from Briagolong via
Valencia Creek, Moroka Glen, Trapyard Hill and Mt. Arbuckle. A branch of
the latter goes south across Wellington's Big Plain to the top of Riggall's
Spur and is rumoured (unconfirmed) to now link back with the Licola-Tamboritha track.
In the BARRY MTS.-WONANNGATTA area, Dungeys Farm, at Happy
Valley, is now linked by road with 'Crooked River,' and at Christmas, 1961, a
'dozer' left Randall's at Glen Lea, bound for Mt. Selwyn. Before the New Year
was over it had reached the Talbotville turn-off; but so far as we can discover
progress for the season was halted somewhere on Wombat. When this track goes
forward during the summer of 1962-63 it will link with the Buckland Valley road
at Mt. Selwyn. A through trip by jeep will then be possible from Dargo, to
Myrtleford, taking in the Wongungarra Valley, Ti-tree Spur and the Buckland
Valley on the way.
STILL ON THE TOPIC of forestry roads, the one up Lovick from the
Howqua valley now turns south around No. 1 and No. 2 Divides to the foot of
Mt. Clear, beyond Ware's old hut site. Looks as though another summer will see
it link up with the Bull Plain track at the Knobs.
Bushwalker PHOTOGRAPHERS will be interested in the new sub-miniature
cameras now available. These cameras have a good deal to recommend them.
Weighing as little as 11 ounces, these tiny cameras may be carried in any average
shirt pocket. Films are no problem, as 35 mm. black and white or coloured is used
in one type. You get twice the number of photographs from a standard film,
thus cutting your film bills in half. Another type uses standard 16 mm. film,
Although the photographs are half the conventional size, viewing them is no
problem as they may be shown on any projector or hand viewer. The cameras
are cheap, initial outlay being as small as £15/15/-.
There is now available on the market a dried INSTANT MASHED potato
(a made-in-Australia one), said to be very tasty. Name of Deb. It claims to be
ready one minute after stirring into a boiling water-cold milk mixture. Also
claims to be 99% potato.
There is a touch of real sadness in the loss of historic relics. Yet each year
we have to record the loss of more links with our past. Despite much vandalistic
destruction, the old ghost mining town of TALBOTVILLE had a great appeal to
most walkers. Little imagination was needed to see it once again in its heyday
during Victoria's golden area of the 1860's. Now it's all gone. A fire in August,
1961, has left virtually only a grassy clearing and a heap of ashes, and soon
the pugnaciously growing blackberry will no doubt claim the last of what
might have been made into a real memorial to our past.
Respect the farmers' animals, crops and fences.
Page Fifty
W A L K
BOGONG JACK'S HUT -
AS IT WAS
-G. Paine
Readers of the correspondence columns of "The Age" will have been
interested in the recent prolonged exchanges regarding the existence and history
of the "BOGONG JACK," after whom the old hut on the Fainter Spur is
named. Mr. ERIC HARDING, a past-president of the Royal Historical Society,
first began the quest by suggesting that information was lacking on what was
really an important item in early Victorian history. It now seems that such
a person did exist, that he was John Paynter, a butcher, born in Omeo in 1829.
Apparently he was the first to cross the moutains from Gippsland to northeastern Victoria, which he did in the course of his business as a 'horse-trader'
(in other people's horses). After dispersal of his gang he fled along his secret
track to the north, and began prospecting where he built the hut just north of
Mt. Fainter. He was ultimately murdered. His hut became a popular cattle
camp, but later a local legend arose that cattle overnighting there frequently
were stampeded by an apparition of a booted and spurred rider appearing
through the trees.
Many walkers will have asked the same question as Mr. Harding, and
they will be grateful to him for being the cause of its being answered. In
passing, we would like to recall our gratitude to Mr. Harding for the notes
which he has written to the editor over a number of years, expressing his
interest in the contents of our magazine.
SNOW BOOT
Of great interest to those who go walking in the snow is a new combat
boot adopted by the U.S. Army. It is made of white rubber to combine flexibility
with low visibility and radiation loss, and is said to be satisfactory in temperatures as low as 120 deg. F. below zero. The actual design use is for dry-cold
regions from 14 deg. above zero to 65 deg. below. This range would amply
cover extreme Australian winter conditions, although there must be some doubt
as to whether these would qualify as "dry-cold." In order to make the boot
as versatile as possible, special geometric lasts have been used to manufacture
it, so that only three widths are required to be stocked.
Bona-fide walkers have a good public reputation-let's keep it so.
WALK
Poge Fifty·one
MOUNTAIN MUSTER.
At Easter we did the BOGONG HIGH PLAINS-by car. 'Did' them is just
about the proper term, for what with the number of people and cars, and the
dust, the High Plains were not those we used to know. The S.E.C. has completed
the ring road around the Rocky Valley dam, with side roads to the summit of
Mt. Mackay and Pretty Valley damsite-and these roads ARE negotiable by
family jaloppies; thousands of them, all heading rapidly in different directions,
each with Its own cloud of dust. A duly-appointed guardian is on duty during
touring hours at Mt. Mackay to see that all the regulations are duly observed
... and to think that ten years ago the most that the average person knew about
the Bogong High Plains was that they were 'somewhere up near Mt. Buffalo.'
The Police SEARCH and RESCUE squad has now been placed on a fulltime basis.This is unique for Australia, as well as for most countries normally not
subject to such civil emergencies as floods, avalanches or the like. The walking
clubs welcome this move, and appreciate and acknowledge the good work
the squad is doing. This appreciation is enhanced, rather than lessened, by the
fact that we hope the club's good record will continue and that club members
will make every effort to ensure that they do not create the need for the squad
to act on their behalf.
A COUPLE OF YEARS ago we mentioned the advent of the BOTTLED
GAS lightweight cooking stove and remarked that it seemed roughly comparable
with its liquid fuelled counterpart as far as bushwalking usefulness was concerned. We have now learnt that the pressure varies substantially with the
temperature, and that cooking time is dependent on pressure. A change from
85 deg. F. to 60 deg. F. can mean a very long wait for a meal and lower
temperatures mean even later breakfast. A suggested way of improving this
is to keep the bottle in your sleeping bag with you during the night-could be
most comforting to those who are used to going to bed with a bottle !.
Recipe for a QUICK BREAKFAST in camp: Make up a cheese sandwich,
cut it, dip it into beaten egg, then fry. Delicious. If you replace the cheese
with jam, then when it's cooked sprinkle with sugar and serve with custard,
it makes an equally nice sweet. Probably find that powdered egg would work, too.
ANOTHER ITEM about which we have amassed further details concerns
FREEZE-DRIED FOODS. Little has been seen of these locally; but a few
samples are bein~; packed in the U.S., aimed especially at outdoors use. From
their experience It appears that the cost is still many times greater than for
other types of preserving, due to the long drying times required. The method
consists of first freezing the moisture within the cells of the food and then
reducing the pressure so that the ice crystals change directly to vapour, and
disperse. This takes a long time and limits the process to thin sections (meat
not thicker than a half inch). Ideally the cell structure is left undamaged and
refrigerated storage is unnecessary. However, the resulting foods demand
careful packaging as they powder easily and storage time is quickly reduced
if they are allowed to absorb oxygen or are exposed to humidity. Some foods
are just as well preserved by existing processes, carrots, for example; but on
the other hand, meat and eggs are ideal subjects. Scrambled eggs only require
mixing with hot water.
Always walk on the right-hand side of the road, facing oncoming traffic.
Page Fifty-twa
W A L K
Clear a space
of ten feet
around
the fire.
Keep the fire
small.
Be sure it is ex·
tinguished before you leave.
and smokers • • • make
sure your cigareHe or
match is OUT before
throwing il away.
FORESTS
WALK
COMMISSION
OF
VICTORIA
Poge Fifty-three
THE WHY OF KEEPING WARM
The following notes are a summary reprinted from the "1955 Ski Book,"
and clearly give pertinent facts and good advice on this surely topical subject.
Wind and water are two of our worst enemies in the snoWfields. Although
air is a good insulator (or bad conductor>, if the cold air in contact with the
body is constantly being renewed by flowing around it the difference in temperatures remains high and the loss of heat remains rapid. Water is not aJood
insulator, and contact with cold water means rapid loss of body heat.
the
temperature of this water is lowered by evaporation and kept very low by
accelerated evaporation due to wind, the loss of body heat is very rap1d.
What then should we do to conserve body heat ?
(a) Surround the body with some insulating medium. Air is one of the
best, and lightly knitted fluffy wool contains, relatively trapped, a lot of air;
so does the "string singlet" as used in polar reg1ons and recently issued to troops
in Korea.
(b) Minimise perspiration, and the conse~uent chilling effects due to
evaporation of this moiSture, by wearing somethmg of "open" weave next to
the skin, e.g., the string singlet.
(c) Avoid rapid exchange of the air in contact with the body; this can
effectively be done by wearing outer garments of wind-resisting (but not
airtight) material. Clothing must be able to "breathe," however, otherwise
condensation will occur on the inside surface.
(d) Bear in mind that a Jot of body heat can be lost by exposure of
the neck and that once hands and feet have become cold it is difficult to
restore circulation and warmth.
(e) "Keep dry no matter what." Cold water will rapidly conduct
away body heat, particularly if exposed to wind; and if we get wet we drive out
that insulatin~ layer of air we were so careful to intersperse among the holes
of the string s1nglet and within the intricate windings of that light, fluffy woollen
pullover.
GENESIS OF A WALKING CLUB.
Last March, a note in the 'Geelong Advertiser' advised that Keith Mitchell,
an ex-Secretary of St. George Bushwalkers' (Sydney) desired to start a club
in Geelong. After a number of preliminary meetings the Geelong branch of
the Y.H.A. came into being on the 23rd May. A good start was ensured by
the number of ex-members of other clubs, both local and inter-State. Quite
a fillip was given to it by the staging of a Y.H.A. stand at the Geelong Trade
Fair and Motor Show, and at a following meeting at the Gordon Institute
when 40 newcomers attended. A meeting place has been found at the Geelong
Hospital Social Clubrooms in the hospital grounds, off Bellarine Street, and
meetings are held on the third Wednesday of the month at 8 p.m. Further
information may be obtained from the Acting-Secretary, Leslie Taylor, 29 Beach
Parade, Drumcondra. Tel. U 2633 Geelong. This new club has forwarded to
us some track notes of some of their first trips which we have published in
our Walks Section.
AUTOMATION
Automatic gadgetry is becoming so commonplace in all our activities that
we tend to give little thought to the means of bringing it about. The recently
introduced automatic cameras are a case in point. The energy derived from the
photocell which is the heart of the automatic device is only of the order of one
thousand-millionth of a horsepower, and is obviously insufficient to operate the
lens setting mechanism of the camera. Despite much encouragement by campfire
urgers, no one seems to have had the courage-or foolhardiness-to take one of
these cameras to pieces to see what makes it tick. So to satisfy our curiosity,
a little research was undertaken. Apparently the scheme is that the light is
sensed by the photocell and recorded by a galvanometer as in an ordinary light
meter. Means are then provided to couple the shutter release button, firstly to a
clamping device which Jocks the pointer in its deflected position, and secondly
to an indexing cam which centres on the pointer and in doing so moves the
shutter diaphragm to an apfropriate aperture. Thus the light meter does the
measuring, and the power o the user's finger does the rest-assisted by a remarkably fine piece of modern engineering.
Page Fifty-four
W A L K
't0alla6 Sectlol\.::,
A COASTAL AND HILL WALK FOR CHRISTMAS
NARRABARBA-NADGEE-MT. NAGHA-GENOA BRIDGE.
8-10 days.
ti0-70 miles.
MAP P.EFERENCES: Broadbent's No. 227 East Gippsland,"
Melbourne Bushwalkers' "Mallacoota-Nadgee."
AVAILABLE TRANSPORT: (I) Train and mail cars.
(2) Ansett's Sydner Coach.
(3) Plane and mai car.
(I) From Mondays to Fridays the mail car services meet the "Gippslander,"
which departs Flinders Street station 8.35 a.m., to arrive Baimsdale about midday.
Cars are changed at Orbost and Cann River-Genoa Bridge is reached about
8.30 p.m. At 9.30 a.m. on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, the Genoa-Eden
mail car may be taken to the starting point, i.e., the Wonboyn tum-off, a couple
of miles past the Narrabarba settlement. N.B.: It is well to advise mail car
operators size of party and intended dates of travel beforehand.
(2) & (3) Bookings for these means of public transport should be made
well in advance. The plane fare to Mallacoota compares very favourably with
surface transport costs.
DESCRIPTION OF ROUTE - NARRABARBA TO NADGEE.
From the Princes Highway follow the Wonboyn road eastwards through
timbered, hilly country, and in 2 miles cross the low wooden bridge spanning
the Narrabarba Creek. About 2 miles past the bridge look for an old noticeboard
on the left of the road. By it a narrow track leaves the road and leads down to the
creek, where there is a deep swimming hole just below some rapids-a good lunch
site.
Back on the road continue for another t mile to cross the bridge over
Watergums Creek. Before reaching another bridge 300 yards further on, the
Nadgee track should be seen coming in at right angles on the right-hand side ot
the road. This track swings to the left, gradually rising up to a series of timbered
W A L K
Page
Fifty-five
ridges affording occasional glimpses of Wonboyn lake and the Merrika River
valley, and after 4 miles descends to a small swampy creek. After climbing to
the next low ridge pass through a number of grassy clearings to drop to the
Merrika River Crossing. Campsite (1 0 miles from highway) .
After fording the stream follow the track uphill, swmg at first to the east
through fern gullies, then south to join up with a timbered ridge studded with
quartz outcrops. For the first few miles parallel but higher ridges block the view
to the east, and in places the track becomes obscure as the vegetation thickens,
until it leaves the ridge by sidling the eastern flanks of Tumbledown Hill to
emerge on a small grassy slope overlooking a lagoon with the ocean beyond.
In a few hundred yards drop down to Bell Bird Creek for lunch.
After exploring the creek and the lagoon, continue along the track for
less than a mile to the creek forming the northern boundary of Wally Newton's
Farm site. The sheltered, grassy clearing makes a pleasant camp site and the
nearby lagoon offers safe swimming. (18 miles from highway).
From the farm gate walk south along the lane which divides the old property
into a western and an eastern clearing. At the end of the lane wheel tracks head
across the eastern paddock towards the steep hills bordering the south-eastern corner of the farm. The track restarts at the foot of these hills in bracken just left of
a swampy creeklet, and then climbs to a rocky headland giving a fine view of the
coastline and hills. Still climbing, the track leads by coastal scrub on the cliff tops
to emerge on a high coastal plain bounded to the west by open eucalypt forest.
Here the track becomes a series of parallel cattle pads for the next few miles
until reaching the Little River Inlet. At low tide it is possible to cross the sandbar
at the river's mouth, otherwise a circuitous track must be traced around the upper
branches of the inlet. Although there is no fresh water at the sandbar, a small
creek is crossed t mile south of the inlet. Past this creek, the track keeps to the
coastal plain for another mile then descends a narrow gully filled with dense
scrub through which it winds its way to ford a rather muddy stream. Out of
the gully the track heads inland to just in front of the timber line and keeps
parallel to it for t mile before turning west into the trees. Another t mile leads
to a wooden gate. Enter a paddock and follow pads to the ford on the Nadgee
River. The Nadgee homestead is a few yards on the other side of the river.
(24 miles from highway.)
HOMESTEAD TO MOUTH OF NADGEE RIVER.
Go back 1 mile to where the track leaves the timber line and look for faint
wheel tracks branching right (E.). However, they soon become well defined in
a few hundred yards from the turn-off and easy to follow over the open plain
with its groves of Banksia to the northern banks of the inlet. (2 miles from
homestead.)
The sand bar is negotiable at low tide only. However, there is a way from the
homestead to the southern side of the inlet. Go through open gate on southern
side of home paddock and enter the forest a few yards from the south-east
corner of the building. The track forks, but keep to the left branch fording
two small creeks and in t mile look for a blaze mark at another fork. Still
keep left to shortly ford another stream. This track finally emerges on to the
coastal plain from which the southern banks of the inlet are easily reached.
(5 miles from homestead). A side trip to Salt Lake and Cape Howe may be
completed in a day by following cattle pads south across this plain. From the
above mentioned blaze mark, the right-hand track goes out toward Mt. Victoria
and the Nadgee valley.
NADGEE TO MT. NAGHA AND TABLE HILL.
From the homestead cross the river and go back to the gate. A few yards
past the gate look for a track branching off to the north. Follow this track i
mile uphill, leaving it to enter timber on the left. Undergrowth is thick but
not at all impassable. Steer a generally north-westerly compass course, keeping
to the highest ground (the Nadgee/Little River divide). In about a mile the
ground rises gently, becoming clearer. Go more westerly as the spur becomes
more defined which, in about 2 miles from the track, leads up steeply, with a
short final swing to the south, to a high rocky knob overlooking the Nad'ee
valley. To the west the next part of the route may be traced along a connecting
ridge to Mt. Nagha. Between this ridge and the knob a deep saddle has to be
Page Fifty-six
W A L K
crossed. For the next 3 miles the ridge climbs steadily in a north-westerly
direction until reaching a flatish area of long grass and open forest. In the centre
of this area a well defined track should be picked up and followed west, in t
mile passing under the old Gabo telegraph line which runs in a north-south
direction. Soon the track drops to the northern slopes, sidling around the gully
heads where water may be obtained for lunch. After the second creek, the track
deteriorates, so keep to higher ground still bearing west. In 1t miles from the
telegraph line the open grassy plateau of Mt. Nagha should be gained. Head
in a south-westerly direction for a high rocky knob surrounded by stunted
eucalypts. Beyond the knob descend to and cross a gently sloping grassy valley
with moss-bogs and reedy patches and about a mile wide. On the far side a
series of steep saddles and high knobs (the highest the site of the Mt. Nagha
trig-1773 ft.) connect to Table Hill. There are extensive views of the Wallagaraugh valley and high country in the north-west, and, on the other hand, the
coast and ocean from Cape Green to Gabo.
No.clgce Ho..,estecul.
Once on Table Hill Plateau go through the open eucalypt forest to the
north-west corner. Here, where the forest thickens, look for a rocky outcrop
which gives a good view of the country around Mallacoota Inlet. This outcrop
crowns a spur which drops steeply to one of the head tributaries of the Nadgee.
Go down and cross the creek noting where lo~Jing operations have exposed
patches of the sub-tropical rain forest. A convement camp may be made here
(12 miles from Nadgee).
TABLE HILL TO GENOA VIA ROYD'S CREEK.
Follow the snig tracks to the forestry road near a saddle on the Howe
Range. This road winds down a spur to the Timbillica saw mill. In 8 miles from
Table Hill look out for the Royd's Creek turn-off, which is the only well defined
road coming in from the south. Two miles from the forestry road the track
crosses the State boundary, and in another t mile Royd's Creek. A camp site
could be made just south of the bridge. From here it is 4 miles along a ridge
road to the Fairhaven fork signposted "6 miles to Hansens." Turn right; soon
the upper arms of the Mallacoota Inlet will be seen through the trees on the left,
and in 2 miles descend to the river flats, passing Jack Johnson's farm on the left
and about -1- mile before crossing the Wallagaraugh bridge, from which it is a
further 3! miles to the highway. However, a pleasant alternative finish to the
walk is, after crossing the bridge, to turn sharply left (S.) and follow a side
road for a mile to where a farm house in an open paddock can be seen a little
ahead. Look out for remains of an old sawmill on the right of the road and there
enter the forest. Walk to higher ground to pick up a blazed track following a
ridge south above the Inlet, then north to meet the highway at the Marramingo
Creek bridge, 3 miles from Genoa. (24 miles from Table Hill.)
(Notes Compiled: January, 1962).
A..S.
WALK
Page Fifty-seven
AN EASTER WALK
TALI KARNG-MT. WELLINGTON-MT. ARBUCKLE-KELLY'S HUTBENNISON PLAINS.
44 Miles.
4 Days.
TRANSPORT: Rail to Heyfield, thence by private transport to the third bridge
over the Wellington River, 12 miles past Licola.
SUITABLE SEASON: Spring to Autumn, but late December to the end of
January, the alpine spring, would be the best time to visit the area.
AVAILABILITY OF WATER: Reliable sources of water at these points:
Wellington River, Tali Kamg, Riggall's Hut Site, Big Plain, McFarlane's
Creek, Surveyor's Creek, Kelly's Hut, Riggin's Hut.
SPECIAL NOTE: The F.C.V. have built a new road from Licola along the
Wellington River to the foot of the Bennison Spur, and thence north
up to the Bennison Plains to pass to the south of Mt. Arbuckle and
head over towards the Moroka River. This new road now provides
access to Tali Karng for week-end visits.
Transport should be arranged to the third bridge over the Wellington River
the previous night, to allow a full day to walk to Tali Karng. After crossing
the bridge proceed along the road for a hundred yards to a sign-posted jeep
track, "Bennison Plains-Tali Karng," which heads down to the river on the nght.
This leads down to a suitable open area where a camp can be made.
FIRST DAY ( 12 miles) . From the campsite there are two jeep tracks,
one heading along the north side of the Wellington River to climb the Bennison
Spur, the other crossing to the south side of the river. The route lies across the
river, this crossing being the first of eighteen. The jeep track is easy to follow,
although it occasionally climbs steeply away from the river, only to rejoin
it again a little further upstream. Occasional views of the Sentinel may be
seen at the head of the valley.
At a point due south of the junction of the Carey and Wellington Rivers.
the jeep track again climbs steeply from the river. This climb can be avoided
by looking for a tree blazed "Hikers" on the. south side of the track. This
denotes the old foot track and should be followed as the way is easier and
more pleasant.
Shortly after the foot track rejoins the jeep track a junction of jeep tracks
is reached. One to the south is signposted "Reeves Track-Mt. Margaret."
Ignore this and turn to the south following the track to its last crossing of
the Wellington River. Over the river is a suitable spot for lunch, as this is the
last water before reaching Tali Karng. The Wellington River valley to this
point is an easy and beautiful walk (8 miles).
After lunch, the track makes a hot, steep climb to the top of Riggall's
Spur, but there are occasional views of the surrounding mountams. In 1 mile
the track turns to the east and an old jeep track is seen running down the
spur in a westerly direction.
Continue climbing the spur, heading generally east, until after 3t miles
from the river, a sign is seen on the right of the track pointing to Tali
Karng. A short walk to the right of this sign through the bush on the top
of the spur will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the lake guarded
by the Sentinels (5000 ft.). Returning to the signpost, the start of the foot
track to the lake is found between two blazed trees and will be found to
descend steeply for t mile to arrive at the shores of Tali Karng and at a
suitable campsite for the night.
SECOND DAY (11! miles). After leaving Tali Karng, follow the foot
track along the same route back to the jeep track. From here continue following the jeep track up Riggall's Spur. The track is distinct, but there are a few
old tracks branching away from it. The track generally follows Nightingale
Creek. After 3 miles a few pieces of timber beneath the snow-gum on the left
of the track denote the site of Riggall's Hut. Lunch could be had here, as
there is good water in a sphagnum moss bog a few yards S.E. of the hut.
Water may be hard to find between here and the Big Plain.
Page Fifty-eight
W A L K
From Riggall's Hut site follow the jeep track for a few hundred yards
to a track junction. The left-hand (easterly) track goes to Miller's Hut, but
the route lies along the right-hand (northerly) track. This track passes to
the east of Spion Kop which can easily be climbed in IS minutes. Very good
views from the summit.
Just over one mile from Riggall's Hut site a track is found branching
to the N.E. This leads to the Moroka Gap and Mt. Wellington and if time
permits, an interesting side trip can be made. Leaving packs at the track
junction. take the N.E. track to the Moroka Gap. The jeep track ends here,
and the route from here is indistinct, but there is no difficulty in attaining
the summit (5355 ft.). Return to packs by the same route.
From here the track heads N.W. until it opens out on to the foot of
the Big Plain, and then N.E. along the west side of the plain. A new cattlemen's hut (locked) is passed near the northern-most swamp on the plain
and in t mile camp is reached at the headwaters of McFarlane's Creek on
the north side of the sphagnum moss bog.
TALI KARNG
-J. Brownlie
THIRD DAY (14 miles) . A hundred yards north of the campsite, the
track swings to the west and shortly passes through a rocky area before swinging north again across the Dry Hills. After crossing the Dry Hills and Playboy
Plain the track drops sharply before swinging N.W. to meet the new F.C.V.
road near Surveyor's Creek (S miles). This new road could be followed to
the west, but it 1s more pleasant to find the jeep track and follow that. The
track is found by following the road west for a hundred yards until the jeep
track is seen on the right going down to Surveyor's Creek. This is a suitable
spot for lunch or morning tea.
From Surveyor's Creek the track climbs back up to the main road,
crosses it and heads west following the road a few hundred yards to the south.
Mter 2 miles from Surveyor's Creek, the track and road meet again; the road
going south to the Bennison Plains and the track climbing sharply to the west
on to the shoulder of Mt. Arbuckle (SS2S ft.). From here a short walk to
the south through snow-gum, leads to the summit.
The track descends gently from Mt. Arbuckle to Holme's Plains and
Kelly's Hut, a distance of 10 miles from the campsite. Kelly's Hut also makes
a pleasant spot for a late lunch, but water will have to be brought from
Shaw's Creek, a t mile to the east.
Leave campsites clean and tidy. Burn, Bash and Bury.
WALK
Page fifly·nine
From Kelly's Hut the track to Hjggin's Hut is obvious, heading due
south with a fence on the left of the track for a considerable distance. After
3-l miles from Kelly's Hut the jeep track swings to the east. Do not follow
this, but follow a faint track due south to reach Higgin's Hut and camp for
the night in a few hundred yards. Water may be found in a small creek to
the S.W. of the hut, but failing this, it will be found in Shaw's Creek, in
the centre of the Bennison Plains.
FOURTH DAY (7 miles). From Higgin's Hut head west of south for
one mile to Chester's Hut and then due south until the new F.C.V. road from
Mt. Arbuckle is reached. This must be followed for about 3 miles down the
Bennison Spur until the road turns to the west and off the spur. At this point
a signposted jeep track is found heading S.W. down the Bennison Spur. This
track 1s steep and badl)' eroded and in 3 miles it crosses Dinner Creek. In a
hundred yards or so, 1t reaches the Wellington River, where a stop may be
made for lunch.
From here follow the same jeep track as used on the first daY, to the
west until in 200 yards it reaches the F.C.V. road. This road then leads down to
the bridge over the Wellington River, where transport is met to return to
Heyfield.
NOTE: If not relying on public transport from Heyfield, camp could be
made on the third night at Kelly's Hut, thus reducing the mileage on the
third day.
MAP REFERENCES: V.M.T.C. The Snowy Plains 1:63,360, Lands. Dept.
Moroka, 1:63,360. V.M.T.C. McAllister River Watershed for general
area.
NOTES COMPILED: December, 1961.
J.L.S.
Don't be foolhardy. Never bite off more than you can chew.
,.........•..............••.........................
JOHN DONNE & SON
CHART HOUSE
372 POST OFFICE PLACE, MELBOURNE
for
MAPS, COMPASSES AND BOOKS
FOR THE WALKER
Included in our Range are:
e
TRANSPARENT PLASTIC FOLDERS, suitable for Map Cases,
3/9 to 10/-.
e
SHELDON'S "MAP READING & FIELD SKETCHING",
15/-.
(This is an Australian Book)
------·------····--····················-······--····
Page Sixty
W A L K
LIKE
TO
HIKE?
••••••••••••••••••
Special tickets enable
hikers to leave Melbourne
on one line, walk across
country to join a return
train on another line.
FULL PARTICULARS AVAILABLE AT:
The Victorian Government Tourist Bureau
272 Collins St., Melbourne. (63 0202) or
Chief Commerical Manager, Railway Offices
Spencer Street (62 0311 ext. 1346)
WALK
Poge Sixty-one
WEEK-END W .ALKS
TARADALE - FRYERSTOWN TOWER
CROCODILE RESERVOIR SPRING GULLY- THE MONK- CASTLEMAINE.
:ZO Miles.
TRANSPORT: Train to Taradale.
Train from Castlemame.
SUITABLE SEASON: Mid-August for flowering wattle.
October for spring flowers.
FEATURE: Historic relics of the golden past.
Leave Taradale railway station, walk west 300 yards, turn left (south) to
corner at 400177 (see map reference), west to Calder Highway at 394178. Turn
left (south) on to Fryerstown road at 395177, thence westerly to Coliban water
supply aqueduct at 378173 (2 miles). Tum south (left) along track on far (west)
bank. In a further mile at 370163 head due west through open forest to 357164.
From here go south down to a head of Dearden's Creek and regain a road
at 353154, then westerly to the Ridge Road at 344160, thence north to Fryerstown Tower at 344170 (5! miles). Suitable lunch spot.
Retrace steps to road junction at 345168. Easterly to a saddle at 352168.
Follow wheel tracks (N.) downhill along the gully to an old coach road; turn
left (W.) to a road junction at 328188. Then westwards through open country,
crossing two north-south gullies, then through open forest to Crocodile Reservoir.
Good camp sites on the gentle slopes behind the reservoir.
Mileage for the Day: 9!.
Many interesting old mine workings near here on the gully below the
reservoir, including remains of the New Era Mine near Hibbett's Flat.
Next day, south-west to the road junction at 307187, then west to junction
at 303188. Look for the many photogenic freestone ruins south along the
beautiful open valley of Golden Creek, particularly the imposing ruins of
the old Duke of Cornwall Mine (1 mile). At the road junction 300174 in
Fryerstown turn right (N.W.) on to an old coach road which, in 2! miles,
descends to Spring Gully. Cross the creek and follow the gully north through
prolific golden wattle, keeping well above the west bank, and passing many
old mine workings and ruins of batteries on the way.
After about 3! miles look for the large tailings heap and old workings
high above the creek to the east; the ruins of old Spring Gully Mine. A good
lunch spot at the creek below this point. After lunch continue north along
the gully's western slopes to ruins at the old hamlet of Spring Gully, where
the derelict but once substantial road bridge crosses Cobbler's Gully and the much
eroded and deeper Spring Gully (4 miles) .
After a short distance through pleasant forest along the jeep track on
the western slopes of Cobblers' Gully, a climb to the west on to the ridge
running north to The Monk enables the party to examine several shafts and
an interesting derelict rock chimney (approx. 287215).
Continue northwards to the Monk (5t miles) for views of Castlemaine. Look
easterly for the high rusted iron chimney about ! mile away at the site of the
Wattle Gully South mine. Heading in its direction, drop down to the Poverty
Gully water race and turn left (west) and follow foot track along the race
above the mine workings and tailing heaps of Wattle Gully Mine (our present
day bonanza). The track leads on past Little Bendigo to Castlemaine; but
most of the small roads leaving to the north-west from the vicinity of the
race lead past the south-east outskirts of Castlemaine and following any of
these will lead to journey's end.
II miles for the day.
Total distance. 20 miles.
MAP REFERENCE: Castlemaine Military Survey, lin. to 1 mile.
NOTES COMPILED: July, 1962.
Page Sixty-two
F.W.H.
WALK
DAY WALKS
SUGARLOAF HILL-MT. DISAPPOINTMENT-TOOROURRONG RES.
Distance: 9 miles.
TRANSPORT: Will have to be arranged privately.
DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE:
Take the transport to the crossroads south of Sugarloaf Hill (map
reference 132809), walk east 200 yards, cross a small creek, then turn north
and follow the track to a scout hut (134819). From here a stiff climb through
light timber in a direction slightly east of north will lead to the top of
Sugarloaf Hill. Unfortunately, the view from the top is obscured by timber.
Head north-east to the road just below the summit and follow this south
to a track to the left (east) (143823). Walk a short distance along this track
then leave it, heading slightly east of south. Cross a small creek then climb
to an old firebreak on the ridge-this is scarcely discernible. There is light
scrub in the gullies, but it is clear on the ridges.
TOOROURRONG RESERVOIR
-Courtesy M.M.B .W .
Follow the firebreak north-east to the point where a creek rises almost
to the ridge. This is a good spot for lunch. Continue up the firebreak, through
thickening scrub and cross a small creek ( 154821). Continue north through
the scrub, the firebreak can only be distinguished here by the difference in
the type of scrub. After a while there are views of Mt. Disappointment and
Melbourne, but the scrub remains thick until a track is reached at 157836.
Follow this north for about t mile to a timber cutters' camp at a road
junction ( 158845). There is a dugout on the left. Turn sharp right at the
junction and follow the road for 1 mile till Mt. Disappointment appears. Ascend
this, obtaining good views towards Melbourne.
On leaving the summit follow the road generally south to the Toorourrong
Reservoir, about 4! miles from the mount.
MAP REFERENCE: Kinglake 1 : 50,000 ( 1958) .
NOTES COMPILED: June, 1961.
J.S.
WALK
Page Sixty-three
WARBURTON-DONNA BUANG-MILGROVE.
Distance ll miles.
TRANSPORT: Train to Warburton, return from Millgrove.
FEATURE: This is an excellent pre-Christmas training trip.
DESCRIPTION OF ROUTE:
Leave Warburton station, cross the railway line, turn left into the Highway
until reaching the swing bridge over the river. Cross this and take the left
turning. After about 150 yards take the gravel road on the right, this leads to
the golf links. The track to the aqueduct leaves this road on the right just
before the brow of the hill. Instead of following this track (which loses height
at first) it is possible to climb the spur through the open paddocks next to
the golf links. The aqueduct is a good lunch spot.
Follow the aqueduct for about 250 yards to the east until the end of the
Donna Buang track is picked up (here the aqueduct passes through a tunnel
and the open aqueduct is fenced off). The climb from here is steep but straightforward, the track is in good condition (December, 1961). After about li
hours' climb the track meets the Donna Buang Road. Turn left into this
and follow it to the turntable and then by the track to the summit.
Return to the Donna Buang Road by the summit road, turn right along
it for about 400 yards to a track which descends the spur on the left. Follow
this down to the aqueduct. At first it is fairly steep and, although covered
by fern in many places, it is easy to follow. However, the last half (the
section between the Dee River and Harrison's Creek) is not so clear; it
zig-zags a good deal, is often crossed by logs and branches, is marshy in
places and often thickly covered by blackberries. This makes progress slow
so it is necessary to leave plenty of time for the return trip if there is a train
to be caught.
MAP REFERENCES: Broadbent's North-East Hill Country.
Juliet C. Lands Department, 2 in. to I mile.
NOTES COMPILED: December, 1961.
R.G.T.
GOLDEN POlNT-BLUE MOUNTAIN-BARRY'S REEF.
Distance: 10 miles.
TRANSPORT: Private, by walking an extra 2t miles it can be made a round trip.
SUITABLE SEASON: Spring.
DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE:
Take transport to Golden Point (map reference 375768). Follow Trentham
Road (known as Golden Point Road) across Lerderderg River for about i
mile. Take the track to the left at this point which leads to Shaw's Lake and
lookout above Golden Point. From here follow the tourist walking track to
the footbridge at the mineral springs, with its picnic and camping ground.
Follow the east bank of the river for t mile or so until it is joined by Yankee
Creek, which makes a good spot for lunch.
Cross Yankee Creek at this point, and after a short, sharp uphill climb
in a northerly direction, follow the jeep track which will be met. This follows the
ridge between Yankee and Nugget Creeks and continues in a northerly
direction. After 2 miles of pleasant walking are cross-roads with signposts.
The jeep track becomes a gravelled road and is sign-posted "Old Blackwood
Road." The road crossed is not marked on the map-it is a new road leaving
the main Blackwood-Trentham Road about 1-l miles north of Barry's Reef.
Follow the Old Blackwood Road for a further 2 miles to a point a little
north of a track leading to the left and marked "Albion Ridge." From here
take a westerly direction, following logging tracks where possible until meeting a track from the north which leads up to Blue Mountain. Turn left
into this and climb to the top. There are extensive views, especially from
the fire tower. Water in the dam at the tower.
Follow the north-west track down the mountain then cut across country
generally west, or south-west, to the Blackwood-Trentham Road. Follow this
through to Barry's Reef, or Golden Point, depending on the transport.
MAP REFERENCE: Daylesford, l in. to 1 mile.
NOTES COMPILED: September, 1961.
Page Sixty-four
W A L K
KILLARA- WARRAMATE HILLS- TARRAWARRA.
Distance: 15 miles.
TRANSPORT: Train to Killara, return from Tarrawarra. Special arrangements
to stop the train at Tarrawarra.
MAIN FEATURES: Extensive views of the Warburton plateau and eucalypt
woodlands.
WATER: Water between the Warramate Hills and Tarrawarra is not the
best. It is advisable to choose a lunch site on the Yarra, or to obtain
water from farm houses.
DESCRIPTION OF ROUTE:
Walk to west end of platform then follow the track to level crossing,
tum north and follow the Killara/Gruyere road for U miles, rising all the
time to the saddle (map reference 498456) which is the highest elevation of
the road. Turn north into a bulldozed section of the bush which becomes an
old track leading to a ridge. From here follow a telephone line to the fire
tower on Steele's Hill. Proceed east along a road gradually losing height, in t
mile it meets a new gravel road from the north, which is on a ridge parallel
with the northward spur of Steele's Hill, across the valley. Proceed along this
until glimpses of the Yarra Valley appear, turn east to a quarrY, pick up a
track leadmg further east to a sizeable creek and a pleasant lunch site. (Just
off Yan Yean map.)
Follow creek downstream for a few hundred yards to its confluence
with the Yarra. The banks are steep and wooded, but a narrow foot track
can be followed for ! mile downstream. From here take a N.W. course
across a series of wooded gullies, climb a long ridge and finally enter cleared
land (512483). Compass bearing on Steele's Hill is 240 deg. Cross gully to
meet north-south track leading to gate opening on to a road opposite a farm
house (512488>, from here there is a spectacular view of Mt. St. Leonard.
Follow this road (Briarty Road) N.W., then W., passing "Oaklands" (490492)
-9! miles from Killara.
In ! mile turn N. into Madden Lane, follow this for l mile, then enter
wooded country, walking N.W. to pass a waterhole at 473507. Here, tum N.
to an old east-west track, cross a non-perennial creek at 469510, walk a further
! mile W. to a track junction (465510). Here enter a gate to go N.W., by-passing
"Yerringberg" on the right, climb to the top of a clear ridge (450516) to see
a wonderful view of the Yarra River Valley. From here head N.N.W. to the
junction of the Highway and the Tarrawarra road, follow the latter to the
railway station, crossing the Yarra at a very derelict bridge. Great care should
be taken here.
MAP REFERENCES: Broadbent's "Melbourne's N.E. Hill Country," Yan Yean
Military, 1 in. to 1 mile.
NOTES COMPILED: April, 1961.
A.S.
WEEK-END WALK
* *
BLACKWOOD-OLD RIVER-DARLEY FORD.
21 Miles.
TRANSPORT: Private transport to the junction of Blackwood and Frenchman's
Roads (368734). Return private transport from Darley Ford near
the mouth of Lerderderg Gorge (480598).
SUITABLE SEASON: Spring.
AVAILABILITY OF WATER: Good water at the crossing of the Lerderderg
River and at the head of the Old River.
SET DOWN POINT: Five miles beyond Greendale on the Blackwood Road,
where Frenchman's Road leaves to the east.
The leader of this party should be a competent navigator as all this Lederderg country can be quite tricky-the spurs often close together, ill-defined and
covered with thick scrub. Wherever possible cross bearings should be taken on
known landmarks, such as Mts, Blackwood, Bullengarook and Blue Mountain, so
as to pinpoint position.
W A 1 K
Page Sixty-five
Head easterly for the Lerderderg River (there is no need to follow the road
down to the river). The old jeep track leaves the road at various places, first
on the left, then later on the right through open forest. At about 2t miles
the road heads for the north side of the eastward-trending spur. Where the
road drops steeply and winds to the south, follow the spur dropping steeply
straight ahead (easterly) to the river (Jt miles). Just above the stream look
for an old mining aquaduct and old workings, tum right, go downstream past
the dig$ings. In a short distance cross the river on a small bridge, then through
more diggings, back to the road on the river's east bank (3! miles). For a short
distance the road runs parallel to the river, first north-east then east, then climbing in a general N.N.E. direction to the top of the ridge. From the Balian map to
Daylesford map at 419 (4 miles). After the road (to Bullengarook) rounds the
corner at 425747 swinging south-east the general trend is then winding easterly
to the corner at 467751.
At about 2! miles after crossing the river, a jeep track crosses the road, the
left track rises to the ridge top in a short distance. The fingerpost pointing to
the right downhill reads "Lousy Point Lookout," probably indicating a view
point to the south high above the gorge tract. At about 3-1- miles from the
river pass a dam on the right (south) then in a further I mile reach the point
467751 (8 miles) where the road runs due east in a straight line for a long
distance. Just past this corner head along a jeep track at about 120 deg. magnetic,
and in about a mile reach the Blue Gum Track (9 miles), the north-south jeep
track on the spur between the Old River and Goodman's Creek.
Turn right and in a further mile reach the point where the Blue Gum Track
turns left and the Hogan's Flat Track continues straight ahead along the ridge
(10 miles). Follow the Hogan's Flat Track, in a short distance near the top of
a hill, two tracks leave on the left, at another track junction the more obvious
right-hand track leads uphill and swings to the right (west), although this
is a ridge track it is obviously too far west.
Take the left track going slightly downhill in a southerly direction ( t mile
from Blue Gum Track) , after a while this track drops steeply to a junction of
gullies near the head of the Old River (476704). This is a suitable overnight camp
with clear water in deep holes 100 yards further down the gully.
Distance for the Day: 11 t miles.
Next morning climb out along the spur below junction in an E.N.E
direction through light-medium scrub. In about t mile the Blue Gum Track will
be rejoined on the crest of the north-south ridge (484704). Turn right, follow
track in a southerly direction.
There is a heavy growth of timber along the ridge but the trees are only
stunted; down in the valleys by the streams can be seen many patches of fine
timber. Travelling south along the ridge road, jeep tracks leave on both sides;
East No. I, Radcliff's and Nuggetty on the left; West No. I, 2 and 3 on the right.
Leave packs at junction 475670, turn right and walk along West No. 2 jeep
track in a westerly direction; look for views out over Wattle's Gully to the
right, and straight ahead over the valley of the Old River. Return to the packs
and about t mile further south look for a well-made dam to the right at a
corner where the road turns left (south-east) (475667). 500 yards further on
look for spur and a rough jeep track on the right marked by odd blazes at the
start. 479662 (4!- miles). The track leaves at a point where the road swings left
after rounding a right turn. Follow the track along spur level at the start, then
later along the bumpy top through stunted gum scrub, the track has now disappeared. Along the crest of the ridge later there are only occasional signs of
the old track.
At the top of one of these scrubby bumps (476650) a high knob can
be seen ahead in the middle of a section where the ridge swings right. Avoiding the false top, head for the high point (474647). From high top 474647
south-west 500 yards to 470644, S.S.W. 300 yards to 468640, then W.S.W. 600
yards to 462638, south t miles to 462630, S.S.E. 1 mile to 464627, E.S.E. 1- mile
to 469625, then S.E. to 476615, 1000 yards; S. !- mile to 476608, S.E. 500 yards
to 481605, then south to the road just to the east of Darley Ford.
Poge Sixty-six
W A L K
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Grenfell and Leather Mitts
Nylon & Leather Mitts ...
£7
£5
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£1
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19
5
19
2
0
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6
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TENTS.
"2-Man" Tents .... .... .... ....
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Blacks "Tinker" .... ... .. ..
Sonata Scout Tent .... .... .. ..
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£22 1 0
£23 2 0
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La Dolomite "Cadore" Boots £11 19 6
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Bush Knife 10" ....
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£3 17 6
£3 19 6
£1 17 6
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Weekender Pack
Overnighter
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CLIMBING EQUIPMENT
Crampons, 8 point
Ice Axes
Karabiners Stubai Snap
Karabiners Stubai Screw
Safety .... .... ....
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Pitons 2 Ring Type .... .... ....
Pitons D. Type
Pitons 10" Stubai ....
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Nylon Rope 100' Length!" (2000 lb. Breaking Strain)
U" (3200 lb. Breaking Strain)
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269 CHAPEL STREET, PRAHRAN
also in GEELONG ... BALLARAT ... HOBART ... PERTH
402 SYDNEY ROAD, COBURG
0
6
6
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£5 0 0
£7 10 0
£9 10 0
HAH.I.EVS
270 FLINDERS STREET -
19 6
5 0
Great care must be taken to follow the correct spur south-east. Lower down
the old track on the spur is often plainly visible. Through gum scrub, golden
wattle and ironbark down to lower levels, but care should be taken to stay
on the correct spur even on the last section to the ford.
Total for the Day: 10 miles.
Total Journey: 21! miles.
MAP REFERENCE: Bulleen Military Map.
1 inch to mile
*
WALKING IN THE GEELONG AREA.
The following track notes are published by courtesy of the newly-formed
Geelong Branch of the Y.H.A.
Graham White led the first walk on Sunday, May 27th. A dozen walkers
(six of each) set out at about 9.30 a.m. from the Aberdeen Street lookout,
near the junction of the Barwon and Moorabool Rivers. The east bank of
the latter was followed upstream for about 3 miles, where the party took to
the railway line to the Cement Works quarries, crossing the river by the wooden
bridge. Three-quarters of a mile further on, where the line entered a tunnel,
they climbed the steep bank to a railway on a higher level. In another 2 miles
the quarries were seen below on the left. A mile upstream in a rocky gorge a
few members, scraping away at the surface of a gravel bank, exposed shell
and other fossils. The river was crossed easily and i mile further on recrossed
where a chalky bank a chain or so from the river showed further fossils.
Nearby were the ruins of Hope's Flour Mill, from where the river,
running in a concrete channel put in by the Cement Works, was followed
for t mile where it was crossed again to the right bank just below "Lynnburn,"
an old homestead. On the walk uphill the ruins of the old wine cellar were
passed, relics of the days when Geelong was a wine-growing area. The old
stone homestead is in good condition-the gun slits in the stone outbuilding
reminded the party of the days when attacks from aboriginals were not unknown. Mter lunch by the river, it was crossed again by the old stone bridge
at nearby Batesford. A two-mile walk down to a cross-road brought the party to
Dog Rocks, which supplied diabase to the aborigines for making their axe
beads. Three miles further on, after crossing the highway to Cressy, Ceres
Bridge on the Barwon River was reached. From there the left bank of the
river was followed to Buckley's Falls and the old Paper Mill, where some
of the party crossed to reach their homes via Queen's Park. The remainder
followed the road back to the starting point, which was reached about 5.30.
Distance for the Day: 20 miles.
MAP REFERENCE: Geelong Military, 1 in. to 1 mile.
For the second outing, on June 16th, Rupert Lee led a trip by bus to
Steiglitz, in the Brisbane Ranges. Mr. Albert Trotter, sheep farmer and prospector, whose wife runs one of the two small cafes, pointed out the localities
of the various buildings which have long since disappeared. Steiglitz has a
certain charm-the streets running up and down hill and over rustic bridges.
A walk before lunch brought the party about 2 miles down Sutherland's
Creek, which was followed back to Steiglitz, passing a dry waterfall and a cave
high up on the left bank. The afternoon was spent walking over the surrounding
hills, following roughly along Yankee Gully to the Kinglock rome, like most of
the mines in the area-disused. The return to Steiglitz was made by road.
MAP REFERENCE Daylesford Military, I in. to 1 mile.
On August 4, there was a 15-mile walk from Moriac, about 12 miles
W.S.W. of Geelong. The walk followed an old railway line (used for carrying
timber some 30 years ago) S.W. through Modewarre, near the lake of that
name, past the old Kerang Camp to the site of the old Wensleydale Railway
Station, where the remains of a locomotive turntable were seen. The return
was made in cars, visiting the forestry tower on Lookout Hill, then down to
Airey's Inlet and the lighthouse on the coast, and back to Geelong via Anglesea.
MAP REFERENCE: Geelong Military, 1 in. to 1 mile.
Page Sixty-eight
W A L K
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