you hu ng guide - Big Buck Challenge

YO
#
Statewide Buck & Doe
by weight
Contest
Central Boiler
Over 200 Pound Division
TM
by Big Buck Cha lleng e LLC
Org aniz ed and Pres ente d
Hunter Specialties
Under 200 Pound Division
Vortex Optics
Under 180 Pound Division
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Conveniently Located Weigh Stations
See State Maps at Fleet stores or online
Hornady American Whitetail
Under 160 Pound Division
Enter at Mills Fleet Farm stores TODAY!
All ages may enter and be eligible for prizes.
Prize list posted at Fleet stores and online.
Or, enter online at usbigbuck.com
Big Game Treestands
Doe Division
Mills Fleet Farm
NO ENTRY FEE
Doe & Buck
Youth
Contest
That’s right! Young hunter s from ages 10 through 15 may enter the
Mills Fleet Farm Youth Hunting contest at no charge and without
pre-registering. The biggest 25 bucks and 25 does by
weight will win $50 Fleet Farm gift cards in Minnesota.
It’s so simple. Follow the advice in this Youth Hunting
Guide and the lessons of the senior s in your hunting
party. When successful, bring your does and bucks to
any Big Buck Challenge weigh station. When your deer is
weighed, you will be automatically registered.
Winner s will be notified and gift cards distributed after deer season. Your picture could appear in next year’s Hunting Guide.
Youth hunter s may also enter the regular Big Buck Challenge for
$20, and the deer they bring to the weigh stations will be entered
in the statewide contest and the youth contest. There will then be
two chances to win great prizes for being in the right place at the
right time.
Weigh stations will be conveniently located at most Mills Fleet Farm
stores and other locations. Maps and details (plus a daily list of
top contest entries will be posted so youth hunter s can see where
they rank) will be at usbigbuck.com.
3
12
Tips
for a Perfect
Safety Record
These are matter-of-fact safety tips that are MUSTS
for each hunter. Know them and practice them faithfully.
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2
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Always, always assume your rifle is loaded.
Always keep your safety on – until right before you make a shot.
Always keep the barrel of your rifle pointed down and away
from anything you don’t want to shoot.
Know your target and what’s beyond it.
Wear hunter orange (preferably a quiet outer coat or vest that won’t
.
make a sound if rubbed against trees, brush or any part of a stand)
Unload your rifle and hand it to a friend or lay it on
the ground when crossing over, thru or under fences.
Unload your rifle when climbing a ladder
stand or pulling a rifle into an elevated stand.
Never rest the barrel of the rifle on your boot
or against your body.
Use a safety belt when in a tree stand.
#
#
4
Know how things work and practice with them – the
gun’s safety, the clip, loading, the sight pattern, etc.
Never, never shoot at sounds or movement.
Always know exactly what you’re shooting at.
Even though it may not be a safety item, don’t litter.
IM
A
to make the first shot count
It could
There is an old adage among military snipers: Make the first shot count.
phy
be the only shot. A miss could be deadly for the sniper. This is the same philoso
ical.
econom
and
ethical
is
This
drilled into many first-time hunters over the years.
The “boiler-room” is an apt description of what keeps
a deer going. This is the heart and lung area. It is easy
to pinpoint. With a deer broadside, draw a line top to
bottom right in the middle of the deer. The front half of
the deer is the “boiler-room.” This line will be from the
back rib forward. While standing, grab your bottom rib.
Then lean forward at the waist, as if you were a standing
deer. Behind the rib cage is your “boiler-room” and that of
a deer.
The best shot is through the lungs or heart. If the deer is
facing directly away from you or staring straight at you, the
have
best option is to wait until it turns. There is nothing in the book that says you
to shoot the first deer that comes by, or any deer, if the shot is not right.
ng
Hunters with lighter caliber rifles like a 243, should only shoot for the heart/lu
shot
A
r.
shoulde
area. Heavier rifles can penetrate and kill a deer shot thru the front
there will usually cause severe damage, and likely also go thru the lungs.
Only
Never aim for the middle of a deer. Never shoot a deer in the hind quarter s.
or
head
should
an
after many seasons and after qualifying as an expert marksm
neck shots even be considered. Wounding a deer
is never fun for the hunter and disrespects the
magnificence of a mighty buck.
Study the body and organ location and know
where your bullet will go when you take that
Pick up a paper target
first (and hopefully only) shot this season.
TIP:
showing the deer’s vitals
from Mills Fleet Farm.
Study and use it when
target shooting or
sighting-in
your rifle.
5#
Hunting Laws vs.
Hunting Ethics
State game wardens enforce hunting and game laws. The following unwritten code
of conduct (also known as ethics) when afield is enforced by each individual hunter.
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8
9
#
#
6
Know and obey game laws.
Be a good shot. Never fling a shot at a running deer at long
distances or one zigging and zagging thru the trees when
speeding away from you.
Abide by shooting hours.
Respect land, trees, buildings,
signs and fences.
Practice shooting and
outdoor skills.
Pursue and recover wounded
game – it’s your responsibility
once you pull the trigger.
Take friends along and share
your love of the outdoors.
Respect private land. If in
doubt, ask first. Always know
where you are.
Speak up about your sport in school and with friends. Tell them
the positives about hunting; how much fun it is; what you see
in the woods. If or when a person or teacher talks negatively
about hunting, it’s your duty to set them straight; unless they
hunt and know all the benefits, they are not qualified to speak
about your sport. Do it all with a smile and never argue.
The
NOT list:
en rules to
In the deer hunting game, there are some written rules and many unwritt
follow:
those
of
Some
occur.
follow. There are also some things that MUST NOT ever
Never look through your scope to see who the hunter is walking
towards you.
1
2
3
4
5
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7
8
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14
back.”
Never leave a stand if a senior member said, “Stay here until I come
Never shoot at a sound.
Never shoot at movement.
Have your rifle ready, but never pointed at sound or movement until the
sound or movement is identified.
not
Never shoot before or after shooting hours. What you think you see may
shapes
and
colors
be what is really in front of you. In low light conditions,
bend and change.
Never cross a fence or into an elevated stand with a loaded rifle.
Never pull a loaded rifle up into a stand (or lower it).
have
Never put your finger inside the trigger guard or on the trigger until you
to go.
identified the target and are aiming directly where you want the bullet
want
Never go afield with a rifle that is not sighted in and shoots where you
it. It is unfair to the animals you hunt.
your
Never go into the woods with the attitude that you are going to “beat”
deer
a
seeing
that
buddy or mom with the biggest deer. Go with the attitude
will be a big victory. Enjoy the woodpeckers and grouse. Watch the woods
wake up. Immer se yourself in the outdoors.
d
Never lean a rifle in a precarious position where it could fall or be knocke
down easily.
Never say, “I’m only going a little ways and don’t need my hunter orange
jacket on.”
Never assume. Always ask the senior s in your hunting party if
you have any questions.
7#
Get good at shooting
The only way sharpshooters acquire
the skills necessary to be considered
the best is they practice. Even
famous General Custer of the plainsIndians battles practiced by shooting
quail with his pistol on the Kansas
prairies.
The TV rifle and shotgun experts
spend hours each day on the range.
They shoot under all conditions.
They must know where each shot will
end up no matter the wind, rain or
distance. Not every Minnesota and
Wisconsin young hunter will be able
to spend hours on a range. Your job
is to shoot as much as possible.
Start with a 22 caliber rifle. It could
be a bolt action rifle, a single shot,
or fed by a clip. These are rather
inexpensive rifles. Chances are
a relative or neighbor has a 22
gathering dust somewhere. “Ask
and you shall receive,” works within
families also.
With a 22 rifle in your possession (if
it’s on loan; treat it like it was made
of gold), start by cleaning it carefully.
The first rule before cleaning a rifle
is to assume it’s loaded. Inspect it
closely to make sure it
is NOT loaded.
Wipe the stock
and barrel with
a gun cleaner
(check with
8
your Mills Fleet Farm experts). With
a gun-cleaning kit, remove the bolt
and clean every nook and cranny.
Use the rod and barrel solvent
to make the inside of the barrel
sparkle. A brush may be necessary.
Inspect the sights. If it has a scope,
make sure the mounts are secure.
If open sights, check the rear
(buckhorn) and post (front) sights
to make sure they’re tight. Work the
bolt with NO ammo in the rifle, acting
as if it was loaded and pointed in
a safe direction and towards the
ground. The next step is easy. Take
your rifle and shells (check the side
of the barrel to see what types of
shells it will accept) to a safe place
where you can shoot. Most 22 rifles
take shorts, longs and long-rifles,
but clip-style rifles may only accept
long-rifle ammo.
Starting at a range, the first thing
to practice is safety. Keep the rifle
cased and always pointed away from
people. Even in a case, point the
rifle barrel down. At the range, meet
the range master. Some rural kids
still have access to gravel pits and
local safe shooting
by shooting more...and more...
areas. Treat every shooting spot the
same – with the utmost safety. Know
what’s behind your target. If it’s a
40-foot high sandbank or berm, and
others shoot there regularly, take a
table or bench and chair. Practice
sighting in by placing the rifle on
a comfortable rest so it is almost
aiming itself at the target.
When looking thru the sights,
your shooting position will
always be the same: cheek in
the same spot; grip and hand
the same. Never place your
finger inside the trigger guard
until ready to shoot. Shoot
with your right eye if righthanded, while gently closing
the left eye. Breathing is the
key for Army Ranger snipers
when called to duty. The rifle
should be steady in your
hands. Breathing should be a
normal full breath – squeezing
the trigger while slowly
releasing the breath.
If the sight pattern is wobbling
or sliding back and forth across
the target, don’t shoot. Control
breathing, control the hold, and with
the safety off, squeeze the trigger
(no jerks) until the bullet leaves the
barrel as if it happened all by itself.
Run the action and with another shell
in the chamber shoot again. And, a
third time. With the rifle empty and
action open, the customary word to
use is “Clear.” Check other shooters
before moving down range to check
the target. Or, have a friend use
binoculars or a spotting scope.
The goal for each 3-shot group is
to get each shot as close to each
other as possible. Sights can be
adjusted (see related story) once
you know where the rifle is shooting.
If consistently hitting low and to the
right the same with every group, the
reason for not hitting the bulls-eye is
not the shooter.
Once sights are adjusted, and most
shots are right on at the 50-foot
distance, don’t move back. Instead,
learn how to stand and shoot while
the rifle is firmly against a tree or a
post at the range. Hold your forward
hand against the tree and the rifle
at the same time. Shoot from both
sides of the tree/post. Try some
shots while sitting. Try some kneeling
with the rifle perched against or on
a rest.
Practice shooting often. Do it with
friends. Take your dad and uncle
along. Show the guys you’ll be
hunting with what you’ve learned.
The next step is chasing squirrels
and seeing how to practice your
range lessons. Hunting small game is
not much different than bigger game.
You will soon learn that shooting is
only part of hunting, but it makes
such a big difference between
success and an empty tag.
9
Pre-Season Scouting
Critical to Every Hunter’s Success
One of the big questions from a
young hunter is, “Where are the
deer?” Deer don’t stream by like
shoppers at the mall; they come
in spurts, gliding into and out of
sight and range, almost like ghosts.
Seldom do they walk right up to the
hunter, stand broadside and say,
“Shoot me.”
But, if wondering where the deer are
bugs hunters, a related curiosity is,
“Where are they going and where
did they come from?” There is one
way to find out, and it’s the oldfashioned way – get out there before
the season opens and get to know
the woods.
You may not become as familiar with
the ridges, swamps, lowland and
thickets as the deer, but hiking from
one end to the other will teach you
much about your deer area. A good
starting point is to walk from where
the truck is in a straight direction.
When you discover a well-used deer
runway, hop aboard for the ride. It
will take you some interesting places.
Note how it dips and weaves; how
it finds the easiest spot to cross
a creek; where deer have been
shuffling leaves looking for acorns;
where your deer “road” intersects
with another good trail; and another.
Make mental notes, and if there are
several trails crossing in a small
area, look for a vantage point where
you could cover them from a stand.
10
Did the runway take you to an area
where you noticed multiple deer
beds? That could be the secluded
area referred to by the TV hunters
as “bedding areas.” The trails
leading from the bedding area have
traditionally been good spots to
watch, but during season, it’s a good
idea to leave them undisturbed.
Maybe if the wind is right later
in the season, sneak into a good
observation point, while one or two
other hunters from your group make
a slow, silent “push” through the
bedding area, and kick deer your
way.
When scouting, another fun game
is to select a compass course and
follow a straight line from one
border of your hunting land to
the other. When doing this, check
the compass and decide on the
course. Compasses are the earliest
navigation gear and still one of the
best orienteering instruments for
hunters.
When using a compass, know where
the sun is in relation to the course
you’ve set. A hunter can go for quite
a while in the same general direction
by noting that the sun is over his
right shoulder. By keeping the sun
in the same spot, the course will be
very close to looking at the compass.
Another trick to using a compass
is to determine the direction, say
south (which on the compass is
180 degrees), and find a tree that
is exactly in line with “south.” Focus
on that tree, and hike to it. Repeat
this procedure and you will hike in a
straight line.
The compass is divided into 360
degrees. The magnetic needle points
north, and for going in any other
direction, these degree marks are
what the hiker uses for reference.
East is 90 degrees. South – 180,
and west is 270 degrees. There are
some adjustments in certain ironrich areas, but for much of Wisconsin
and Minnesota, the compass needle
doesn’t deviate much from true
north.
While scouting, notice the
transitions in the woods. From
oak woods to scattered oaks
with more underbrush, which
gives way to lower terrain
with poplar (sometimes called
aspen or popple trees). This
may drop off into marsh grass
and alder brush as the woods
is interrupted by a stream.
Edges are good deer travel routes.
You will discover runways there
that need to be investigated. For
instance, if checking out a runway
along the marsh/poplar edge,
watch for necked down areas in the
marsh where deer move across this
lowland.
While in the October woods, there
are other signs that deer are
present. Deer pellets and tracks
tell you deer have been there. Rubs
and scrapes show where a buck or
bucks have been advertising. Rubs
on brush, saplings and small trees
may be signals to other deer, but
could also be where a buck was
“working out” to strengthen neck
and shoulder muscles in the advent
of a fight with another buck. They
do this to establish dominance and
mating rights. Scrapes are made
with hooves, and these cleared/
pawed/scraped areas of two to four
feet in diameter are where deer
mark territories with urine as part of
the mating ritual.
Young hunters should take
a pad with them and make
a map. Write down key
landmarks (tall white pine,
oak splintered by lightning,
etc.). Draw ridges and creeks;
swamps and open areas;
fences and roads; label
things. Be sure to sketch
deer runways and the best
potential stand locations.
Make notes about good
spots for north winds, south
winds, etc. Write down any
interesting finds along the
way like a bear den, a porky
tree, a big rock, a rub on a six-inch
diameter tree, etc.
Spend many days in the woods.
Check the good spots you
discovered, but come from
a different direction. These
explorations will answer the question
where deer come from and where
they go. You may not always be able
to answer “Where are they?” but you
will be very confident of your deer
stand location, knowing that they
have been in the vicinity and are
likely to be back soon.
11
Where to place a
Deer Stand
Erect a ground blind or a tree stand anywhere, and sometime in the next century a deer may
walk by. But, you can up the odds just a bit by considering some basic factors.
For instance, place your stand where you know deer live. Get close to where they regularly
travel. If deer exit a certain feeding area through a necked down corridor, be there. If the
oaks have provided a great acorn crop, the oak ridges may be best. If standing ag crops
or a recent logging operation are attracting deer, watch where they enter or leave. If other
people hunt the public area, make plans to be back in the woods before them, and let them
push the deer to your stand.
Many key spots will “show up” during pre-season scouting. There are no shortcuts to deer hunting, with the exception of spending time in the woods. When a
young hunter follows one deer runway, and within a couple hundred yards several
more converge, that could be a key deer-movement zone. If a well-tracked
runway crosses a swamp or creek, consider standing nearby. If deer emerge onto
a field from a thicket, select a position to take advantage of their habits.
A hunter will never be able to cover all the potential deer movement areas, but should be
in the place that allows maximum sight-lines. Get above the brush if possible. Abide by
landowner orders and laws about trimming trees and brush. Even if a hunter sees a big
buck a half mile away across a field or marsh, it is out of range. Be where that buck travels
before or after he crosses a wide-open area.
Some young hunters will shoot deer within 100 yards of the truck or cabin, because that’s
as far as their seniors allowed them to venture. No matter where you stand, expect deer to
come around the tree the next minute. They see trucks, cabins and people all the time. Your
job as a stander is to wait them out.
Some favorite spots are well-used runways around ponds, a
bit of high ground between swamps, a runway half way down
the side of a ridge, a runway coming out of (or going into)
a really thick area, runways from swamps and woods into
fields, in feeding areas, fence crossings, where two or
more runways come together, and where you jump deer
when scouting.
Whether on public or private hunting grounds, be aware of
and look for existing stands; give others plenty of space.
Your actions towards other hunters will be repaid many
times over.
12
TIP:
Keep the wind direction
in mind when placing and
selecting stands. Also,
follow the “watching
for deer” advice on
page 14
Number one way
to hunt whitetails
Treestands:
“Treestands are the number one way to hunt whitetails,” according to a guy who knows.
Ryan Knigge at Big Game Treestands, a Minnesota company, wanted every young hunter
to know that being up in a tree requires a very high degree of safety awareness. “All
hunters in elevated stands should use a harness,” he emphasized.
In everything his company does, safety is first and foremost. A treestand safety video is
available on their website, biggametreestands.com, and every single ladder stand
they sell includes a safety harness. A new deluxe body harness, “The Diamondback” is
lightweight at two and one-half pounds, comfortable, adjustable and convenient with a
quick-release buckle.
Another new product for 2013 is a Safe Line with a Prussic knot. With the harness
attached to the Prussic knot, should a person slip and fall, the hunter won’t hit the
ground. When climbing up or down a ladder, the 30-foot Safe Line (fastened to the stand)
will protect hunters.
Ladder stands are the largest selling category for Big Game Treestands, because they
encourage and allow the lifestyle hunters demand in the woods. They are comfortable
and very safe. Hunters will quickly find a second good stand location after they place their
first ladder stand.
Ryan said stand location could be described as, “Observe and adjust.” He advised young
hunters to be where the deer will be, not where the hunters want the deer to be. That will
likely require moving the ladder stand to get it just right.
It is important to check stands annually. Set them early, trim appropriately for optimum
shooting lanes where legal and permitted, check ratchet straps and tighten prior to use,
and make this a team activity with hunting buddies. The company advises ladder stands
be removed after season, but if not, that straps and components be inspected carefully.
Climbing Treestands offer mobility in the woods, sort of a
“run and gun” approach to hunting. Move with the deer;
find a good spot and set-up quickly and be ready in a
few minutes. Big Game Treestands began production
in 1977, and stepped into tree seats and stands a
dozen years later. They were the first company to bring
the 20-foot ladder stand to market, and in addition
to stands, seats and safety gear, they sell benches,
ground blinds, trail cameras, processing and other
accessories needed by hunters.
13
How to Watch for
To see deer, know what to look for
Deer
A wise grandpa told his grandson many years ago that watching for deer
in the woods is
NOT watching for deer – it’s watching for parts or pieces of deer. That
may seem odd, until
you quietly sit and observe deer. They’re not quite like the TV shows
where the camera
sees an entire deer’s body before the hunter shoots. In the northwoods,
deer are at home.
They ease around brush, squeeze among trees, nearly disappear in
tall grass, and cruise
the ridges and stream edges. A deer usually appear s at the edge of
the hunter’s vision first
as a tiny movement. The question that pops up, “Was that a bird? A squirre
l?”
Staring in that direction may not detect another movement for minute
s. Then, a twitch of an
ear will get the pulse racing. From ear to top of head, slope of neck,
perhaps the horizontal
back as it steps between trees. Maybe the swish of a tail. Sometimes,
only a leg shows
below a limb. It’s not unusual for the color to change behind some brush.
Wondering why,
you bring up the binoculars to discover a big doe has materialized where
there was no big
doe previously.
Knowing what to look for is a big part of successful stand hunting. Anoth
er
element is how the hunter checks his environment. If a hunter jerked
his head
from side to side, waved his arms, stood up quickly and plopped back
down,
the deer would see him first and take a long detour around that spot.
When on
the ground, against a tree, in an elevated stand, and waiting on deer
to show
themselves, the grandpa offered this advice, “Use your eyes first, then
slowly
turn your head. When your head catches up with the eyes, take in more
real
estate.”
Use eyes and head, not shoulders swiveling back and forth. Move slowly,
looking close to
the stand and as far as you can see. Take time to explore under and
around branches.
What about that small hump? Was that there before? Look behind your
stand, covering
360 degrees.
When moving your head, make sure that hats and scarves don’t scratch
on coats. There
should be no noises when on stand. Grandpa’s words were dead-on
when he said, “Deer
show up when you least expect them.” So, most hunter s as they grow
from young hunter s
to experienced woodsmen know that the longer a person stays in one
spot, the higher the
odds of deer showing up.
14
The wise grandpa offered
these additional
1
2
3
4
5
Tips
a.m.
Take your lunch and stay on stand while others hike in from 10
to 2 p.m. They will chase deer your way.
food
Be prepared with extra clothes and extra hand warmers. Take
and something to drink.
6
7
Never get discouraged.
Don’t worry about the score of the game; you can
watch highlights later.
to the woods
Watching has another required sense – listening. Pay attention
mouse.
a
as it talks to you. Not every rustle in the leaves is a squirrel or
g – and be
Know what a rutting buck sounds like – more like a sheep bleatin
ready when you hear that sound.
Wear a wool cap to keep ears warm, yet able
to hear your surroundings.
8
9
10
is in your
Watching on stand will be 100 percent more productive if the wind
and a
favor. If a stand is south of a spot where two good runways cross,
ng, even
crossi
the
of
side
north
the
south wind comes up at 9 a.m., move to
.
outline
your
break
to
if you have to kick away the leaves and use a tree
probably
Be alert, and when you “feel” like something is watching you, it
is – and that something is likely a deer.
sniffles,
Sounds that will tell deer to vacate the premises are: coughs, loud
stand
metal
a
on
g
clinkin
rifle
boots scraping on a stand, rifle sling jingling,
backa
open,
support, a pop can opening, a potato chip bag being ripped
or the
pack zipper “zipping,” and outer clothing scraping on itself, a tree
stand.
for a couple
Patience, patience, patience. If you can only stay warm on stand
stand at
d
secon
a
to
hours, make plans with your senior hunters to move
maybe
and
a prescribed time. Better yet, have that senior hunter show up
to another
make a little drive in your direction at 10 a.m., and walk with you
to
time
good
a
also
is
This
stand. Warm up while going to the new spot.
eat lunch.
15
Stalking De
Deer Hunting the ‘Old-Fashioned Way’
by Chauncey Hansen
Compared to the hunting methods
of today, “stalking” may seem out of
date. This is the method of hunting
I grew up on, and learned so much
by trying to walk up on deer. I have
more fun hunting when I can move
through the woods.
Stalking is a very interesting
way of hunting. I do this often.
If you try it, make sure your
hunting group knows that
you will be “wandering” and
exactly where you will be. I
always try to select an area
no one else is hunting. They
need to know, because if I
jump something, it could go
squirting by them.
The steps I use are simple and
have led to success. I always start
downwind on the outskirts of the
woods. I have a good idea that the
adventure that lies ahead depends
on me being alert, quiet, and
16
following a route that will take me
towards where I have seen deer in
the past.
If there is an opening in the woods,
work towards it, while hiking and
changing course (back and forth)
QUIETLY! Take old ATV trails or little
openings in the woods. If you head
through a thick spot making a bunch
of noise, the deer will be gone before
you get close. Walk 10 steps or less;
stop; watch for several minutes. If
you keep walking and don’t stop, the
deer will know you’re a predator. Find
a nice spot and sit for a while. Some
“waits” could be for an hour. This all
depends on intuition, deer sign, wind
direction, etc.
If you’re lucky enough and have
some fresh snow, find a fresh track
and follow it. See where it leads. You
might discover a bedded deer. Or,
maybe it might take you to several
deer leisurely feeding. Keep your
ears and eyes open. I usually don’t
Tipfosr successful stalking
eer
spend more than an hour or two
stalking; too much messing around
will really spook them. The longer
you’re on the trail, the slower you
should move. Sometimes it will be
taking one or two steps and waiting
three. Remember to check behind
you from time to time. Big bucks
that know you’re behind them will
often circle behind you to see what’s
following.
Depending on the terrain, it
sometimes pays to make a radical
course change. Say you’re sneaking
along into a north wind. After a
quarter mile, head straight west
for about two blocks. Then pick up
your northerly pursuit. If you spot a
deer, don’t move. Watch and look all
around – Vortex binoculars will really
make a difference – to see what else
might be in the vicinity.
you
hear them well before
Use your ears. You will
be
ar a deer snor t. It could
see them. You could he
.
ow
sn
y
ves or cr unch
running or walking in lea
u are looking down to
Keep your eyes up. If yo
u
er that downed tree, yo
figure out how to get ov
the tree.
won’t see anything but
1
2
3
s spooked by someWalk quietly. Deer are les
them than a bulldozer
thing quietly coming at
y can hear your ever y
coming through. If the
and watch you go by.
move, they will lay low
m. Look at all the
Check under ever y balsa
ow the woods and feel
woods. Take time to kn
of deer.
the deer. Look for parts
4
5
6
stuff is not fun, get in
Even though the thick
se. Take your time,
there – quietly of cour
p carefully.
follow deer runways. Ste
result in higher
Quietly zigzagging will
eing a big buck and
success. Often times se
next county will allow
not spooking it into the
area and stand the
you to sneak into that
king for new stand
next day. Always be loo
positions.
7
8
9
wn.
When in doubt, slow do
w ter ritor y. Use a
Stalking will show you ne
, and create a map in
compass for reference
your head.
re.
Read Number 7 once mo
17
Sighting in a rifle is
ce
NOT Rocket Sce’siehownto adju
st the
ly with a 22 caliber rifle, her
Once a young shooter hits consistent
simple if you
It’s not rocket science. In fact, it’s
sights so the shots hit the bulls-eye.
es to the
mov
rel
ak the sights so the rifle bar
remember that the objective is to twe
center of the target.
is what
ots to the right of the bulls-eye, this
sho
rifle
the
ng
umi
ass
ts,
sigh
n
With ope
the sight and
t. Make small adjustments, tighten
to do. Move the rear sight to the righ
the right,
t
e shots. By moving the rear sigh to
test the new alignment with three mor
et will be
g to the left. That means the next bull
the bar rel’s muzzle will naturally swin
much closer to the center.
n shell 20 to
uld be able to lay an empty shotgu
When perfect, a 22-rifle shooter sho
shooting high,
n end and hit the brass. If a rifle is
40 feet away and shoot thru the ope
comes down
the rear sight, the bar rel’s muzzle
ing
rais
By
up.
t
sigh
r
rea
the
e
mov
when lined up with the front bead.
(usually by
bs. Remove the adjustment covers
Each scope has two adjustment kno
knob will say
with a dime to get them star ted). One
screwing them by hand, or maybe
b will be
pointing the direction. The other kno
w
arro
an
with
s
time
n
ofte
n,
dow
up or
pe knob says
e changes; noting that when the sco
for right or left. Make the appropriat
e for right
Sam
.
stment will move the sight picture
“up,” that’s the direction your adju
and left.
ple
g three inches to the right, try a cou
Make small adjustments. If shootin
t
tha
say
usting. Many scopes (not all!)
clicks, shoot again, and continue adj
the
vement at 100 yards. Prove this at
each click equals a quarter inch mo
rifle
the process while fixing the 22range. After becoming familiar with
.
costly) when moving to the deer rifle
sights, it will be much easier (and less
.
the first time
ng hunters shooting their rifles for
A word of caution is in order for you
shot seem
ring your hunting coat. Make each
wea
le
whi
ot
Sho
ion.
tect
pro
ear
r
Wea
r sighting-in
r stand as possible. Don’t rush you
as close to when you’ll be in the dee
target, make
a
ct
down the 50-yard range and ere
efforts. Take your time. If you walk
a rest for
before going to the line. Always use
sure your breathing is under control
ed up after
tter where you think the bullet end
spo
the
Tell
e.
trat
cen
Con
-in.
ting
sigh
ts. If it takes
is “tight,” before adjusting the sigh
each shot. Make sure each group
pointer is
10a
ge is the time, instead of when
more shots to be accurate, the ran
at you.
running away waving his white tail
#18
New Hornady American Whitetail
Ammo a
‘Knock-Down’ Bullet
Opening day of deer season comes only once a year. Be ready with Hornady American
Whitetail ammunition. Make it a “knock-down drag-out” hunt!
Loaded with legendary Hornady InterLock bullets in weights that have been deer hunting
favorites for decades, American Whitetail ammunition combines generations of ballistics
know-how, modern components and technology in many deer hunting calibers.
Among many new product introductions this fall are the Hornady 50 caliber 250-grain
MonoFlex ML and Superformance shotgun slugs. The muzzleloader bullet is .452 inches in
diameter, and the Superformance shotgun slugs come in 12 and 20 gauge loads for rifledbarrel slug guns.
The MonoFlex monolithic solid projectiles are made from gilding metal – 95 percent copper
and 5 percent zinc. They are topped with the Hornady exclusive Flex Tip that works as a
catalyst for uniform expansion, even at low velocities of longer-range impacts. The MonoFlex
won’t separate and retains 95 percent of its original weight. These bullets are specifically
engineered to provide phenomenal accuracy and high weight retention, and are a “nontraditional” alternative metal bullet option.
Hornady also introduced a shotgun slug that reduces recoil by 40 percent. It is the SST Lite
12 gauge shotgun slug, sure to become popular with younger hunters, women and those
looking to tame recoil of their rifled-barrel slug guns.
The SST Lite slug is loaded with a 300 grain FTX projectile used in the original SST slug. It
leaves the muzzle at 1,575 feet per second, but has mild recoil. It is capable of taking the
largest Midwest whitetail.
Hornady is one of the largest
independent producers of bullets
in the world, featuring quality,
continuous improvement, innovation
and responsiveness with a rich
heritage.
hornady.com
Hornady American Whitetail
ammunition is made in the USA
with these features:
Legendary Hor nady InterLock bullets
Optimized loads tailored specifically
for deer hunting
Select propellants that deliver
consistent accuracy and performance
Available in 243, 25-06, 270,
7mm-08, 30-30, 308, 30-06,
7mm Rem Mag and 300 Win Mag.
1
2
3
4
19#
The Importance of
Optics
When it comes to filling freezers and living room walls, qualit
y optics make the
difference. The bottom line is you need to be able to see,
evaluate and hit the game
you are after. Remove optics from the hunting equation, and
you’re left with some
great stories about the one that got away.
Walk with your eyes: Binoculars and spotting scopes bring
subjects closer, allowing
you to look them over in detail. Savvy hunters spend subst
antial time scouting before
and during hunting season. Optics offer a low-impact way
to keep tabs on game
and under stand travel routes, feeding patter ns, deer sign,
as well as potential stand
locations.
Buck, Doe, Stump – other hunter? With the naked eye,
that mossy-hor ned
monarch of the woods may not even be visible. Worse yet,
it could pass by undetected.
Or, you might spot “mossy horns” only to have the binoculars
show a conveniently
placed overhanging branch. Hunters need to know what they’r
e seeing before
they take a shot. Identifying your target and what’s beyon
d assures ultimate safety.
Riflescopes are not binoculars. Never use your riflescope
to look at something unless
you are not absolutely certain it is something you want to
shoot.
Questions to ask when choosing optics:
What am I predominantly going to be using the optic for?
What type of terrain will I find myself in – dense timber,
fields, open country?
How long will my shots be? (Riflescopes Only)
What reticle will work best for my hunting applications? (Rifle
scopes only)
Buying a Quality Optic: Today, hunters are able to obtain
an incredibly high level
of optical quality, value and premium performance without
breaking the bank. It’s
impor tant to do your research and personally
evaluate optics before making a purchase. Buying
an optic that doesn’t meet your needs will not
only prove disappointing, but can potentially cost
you when you need it most – when the big buck
is trying to sneak past your stand. Quality optics
will enhance your outdoor experience and make
every hunter more effective.
20
What to
look for in
Clarity
Resolution
Light transmission
(Low light performance)
binoculars
and
scopes
Edge-to-edge sharpness
Color fidelity
Optical coatings
(Should be fully multicoated)
➸
Waterproof/Fogproof
Eye relief
Accurate and repeatable turret tracking
(riflescopes only)
Durability
Warranty
An American family owned
company based in Wisconsin,
Vor tex Optics is dedicated to
exceptional quality, value and
unrivaled customer ser vice. Vor tex
al, transferable,
backs its products with an uncondition
designs, engineers,
lifetime VIP-warranty. The company
mium binoculars,
and distributes a complete line of pre
and related
riflescopes, spotting scopes, tripods
g as a leading brand
accessories. Vor tex is rapidly emergin
in the optics mar ket.
21
A Deer’s
Nose Knows
Hunters with decades of woods’ experience tell story after story about deer that got
the best of them. These deer season veterans are aware that the noses of deer are
wonderful machines.
Whether in deer camp or classroom, at work or at home, phrases like, “That buck winded
me,” are repeated. Maybe it might go like this, “I got busted!” Or, “I watched him sliding
through the brush, and when he caught my scent, he spooked off like a ghost.” Or, this,
“I sat on my stand even though the wind was wrong. Never saw a thing.”
How can a hunter out-smart a deer’s nose? The first step is recognizing what a
wonderful instrument it is. Respect it. Then, always try to place your stand where the deer
never get downwind of your position. Have several “wind” options, and never use a stand
when the wind blows your human scent across the area you expect deer to travel.
Use the wind to your advantage. Know the prevailing November winds, and place stands
accordingly. Also, be ready with stands for those days when fronts cause winds to blow
s
from the opposite direction. Stand height makes a difference. Being above deer minimize
.
harness
safety
a
wear
stands,
their ability to pick-up human odors. When in
Hunters should minimize the odors in clothes and on their bodies. Keep clean by using
scent-free soaps and deodorants, like the Scent-A-Way brand by Hunter’s Specialties.
Wash what you will wear in the woods (underwear, socks, gloves, etc.) in Scent-A-Way
soap that neutralizes odors and dry with fabric softener s that do the same, or use the
old-fashioned clothesline. Keep outer clothes away from bacon cooking, gas-pumping,
etc. When hiking into a stand, dress or walk at a speed so your body does not sweat. Add
warm clothes upon arrival. Chew gum that kills breath odors.
There are many scent-killing sprays and masking scents that conceal human
odors. However, young hunters should learn to play the wind first. Use ScentA-Way concealing spray as a safety measure. These products are available at
Mills Fleet Farm. New solutions are coming out of the labs every year. Study
and learn exactly what works best for you.
There is a reason why the “old guys” seem to always get deer – they play the wind. So
”
should you. Use masking sprays to help make your presence in the woods as “invisible
as possible.
Check this website – hunterspec.com/content/scent-control – for more details on
scent control. While there, check out information about deer lures that attract and trigger
responses in deer.
22
A deer’s nose knows. This is not
just something to think about.
It’s the truth! Scientists and
researchers have tried to explain
just how effective the deer’s best
detection system really is.
They say a deer’s nose is:
1,000 times better than the human nose
More powerful than a dog’s nose by about 33%
Loaded with about 300,000,000
intricate olfactory receptors - a dog has about 220,000,000
Connected to its brain, and nearly
a deer’s brain
1/2 ofis devote
d to smell
It’s best defense mechanism
Able to smell a person
100s of yards - or more - away
TIP:
ason
A good idea after se
ed:
an
cle
e
ar
and clothes
afe
t-S
en
Sc
in
store them
ich
wh
,
gs
ba
storage
you can find at
Mills Fleet Farm.
23
Dress warm
to stay
Enjoy the woods this deer season & stay warm
Brought to you by Central Boiler, Big Buck Challenge Over 200-P
ound
Division Sponsor
The longer a person can stay warm, the more time the deer stand
seems comfortable.
Much of the time, temps in the 20 to 30 degree range demand
a different approach than
when temps hover around the zero degree mark or below.
Layers are the key. What’s next to the skin is critical. Science and
chemistry helped create
wicking material so moisture/per spiration moves away from skin
to the next clothing layer.
Always make your winter base layer, top and bottom, with garme
nts that have “poly” as
a generic name. Under Armour and similar brands at Fleet are
popular. Look for the label
that lists the wicking properties. You can select from lightweight
to heavyweight. Crew
necks, turtlenecks, and three-quarter zip necks are a matter of
preference. So are tight
fit or loose fit. The price is higher than cotton, because this stuff
really works. It also lasts
many years and keeps working like it did on day one.
When dressing, match clothing to the activity. If stand-sitting, more
layers and
a heavy outer layer (pants or bibs and coat) will be necessary.
When moving
(hiking or stalking), dress lighter, but have windbreaker pants and
jacket
available in case you find a good spot and decide to wait for an
hour or two.
There are a few other body parts that need attention.
Starting with feet, wear
waterproof boots. These can be pac boots with synthetic, fleece
or felt liners, or quality
hiking boots with at least 800 grams of Thinsulate. When trying
on boots, wear your
wool socks and buy boots that fit – snug, but never tight, or they’ll
cut circulation leading
quickly to cold feet. Good boots should make walking easy. Best
tip: Carry an extra pair of
socks and change if the pair you’re wearing gets wet.
Hands and finger s. Mittens with liners are the ultimate. When movin
g, gloves may be
adequate. Carry several pairs of light to medium. A set of chopp
ers can be worn over the
gloves. Slip a disposable hand warmer in each glove (back of hand)
or in the choppers.
Make sure any new gloves allow your finger s to slide in when damp
or wet.
Most body heat is lost through the head. The reason hands and
feet get cold is because
as the head loses heat, the body compensates. Wear a wool stocki
ng cap until the wind
really blows. Then cover face and head with a full face mask; pull
the stocking cap over
the face mask. When it’s near zero, break out a fur cap and tie
the flaps under your chin.
Cover ears and as much skin as possible.
24
rules:
Some layering
1
2
3
or nylon with one of the
The star ting layer should be silk, polyester
Cotton next to the skin
major brand names. No cotton next to skin.
tely cools the body.
soaks up perspiration, holds it, and immedia
Build from there. Keep layers loose.
4
5
. The wicking material
Dress so you don’t get hot. Sweat is moisture
skin. If perspiring,
passes it to the next layer and away from the
day, be ready with
your
s
remove a layer. If snow or rain inter rupt
can afford for a good
rain pants and coat. Hint: Pay the most you
set of GoreTex.
heat. Wool has a
Wool shirts or pants over other layers retain
when wet.
unique property and can keep you warm even
y fine garments
When dressing for a deer stand, there are man
the outerwear price
designed for both hunters and fishermen. If
a heavier
and
tags scare you, consider a good down coat
and
Gore-Tex rain suit over the layers to cut wind
retain body warmth.
6
7
Vests keep the body’s core warm.
Remember to always have as much hunter
orange showing as possible.
TIP:
The longer you stay in
the stand, the higher
the
odds of scoring in the
Big Buck Challenge or
Fleet Youth
Hunting Contest!
ntral
ought to you by Ce
This ar ticle was br
oor
td
ou
known for
Boiler, the company
,
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wood furnaces that
ic advantages
comfort and econom e mess,
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of burning wood wi
ing. The large
sed by indoor burn
po
s
er
ng
da
d
an
e
rger pieces
inconvenienc
ing and can burn la
ad
lo
sy
ea
r
fo
d
ne
for other
fire-box is desig
and splitting wood
ng
tti
cu
t
en
sp
e
at
tim
of wood, reducing
onic heater s can he
dr
hy
d
re
-fi
od
wo
e
Thes
domestic water
types of furnaces.
ols, greenhouses,
po
,
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tu
t
ho
,
gs
in
sota with
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d in northern Minne
te
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pa
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and more. The
ralboiler.com
ted retailers. Cent
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ie
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many
25
Gear
Checklist
tetails
Hunting gear for a day hunting whi
need to find the following
Young hunters just getting star ted will
their own backpacks or
gear at Mills Fleet Farm, and customize
everything, but it should not
fanny packs. Not all hunters will carr y
and experience the “woods,”
be far away. As young hunters mature
h and every item – especially
they will quickly lear n the value of eac
if they don’t have it with them!
Paperwork:
Hunting License
Wallet with ID
Toilet paper
hand drawn showing
Map of your hunting area (even if it’s
, a power line, a
key elements like a river, a road, a trail
big X where the truck
lake, swamps, ridges, etc.); include a
is par ked!
ing you see;
A daily hunt diar y; make notes of everyth
nature will amaze!
to identify what’s
Field guides for birds and trees; lear n
around you.
Technical Stuff:
or pack and a
Compass (preferably one in your pocket
pin-on compass for quick reference).
batteries for both
Flashlight and Headlamp – and extra
Camera and cell phone
Binoculars
Truck key in case of emergency
Sharp Knife
f matches
Charcoal grill firestarter plus waterproo
Hand & toe war mer s
20 feet of
Electrical tape and rope (at least 12 to
parachute-strength cord)
Rifle, ammo, clips, scope covers
26
Not so Technical Stuff:
Quart size Zip-lock bags
wet or cold
Cushion to keep your butt from getting
and your senior
Game calls – only if you’ve practiced
to use a call.
hunting par tner s feel you’re qualified
Watch
Scent neutralizing spray
Food/snacks/water
a safety)
Hunter orange (bright and new for extr
coat, hat, even pants (know laws)
TIP:
You can find all yo
ur
gear (and snacks
) at a
Mills Fleet Farm
near you!
First Aid Items:
ns
Aspirin, Ibuprofen and daily prescriptio
gauze pads
Band aids and at least two 4 x 4 heavy
Neosporin
Skin
Medical tape (or Duct tape) and New
re bandaging
befo
Baby wipes to clean a scrape or cut
in hunting cabin
A complete first aid kit should be kept
or truck and readily accessible
Optional items to consider
Por table heater
More food
Homework
Rangefinder
Pruning shears
Tape measure
Decoy
Can of diet soda to wash
hands after gutting deer
Deer gutting gloves
woods after use)
(place in quart bag and remove from
ks, war m mittens, wool cap,
Facemask, one pair of extra wool soc
ending on weather
an extra layer or heavier top coat dep
nge vest must be wor n over it)
Rain gear if necessary (but a hunter ora
27
Donate
Venison
Shoot a deer; think of others
After you get your deer out of the woods, the next stop is the processing plant or in
the garage of a neighbor or relative who can help skin and cut it. This is a learned
procedure that will take a few tries. Familiarize yourself with the chores ahead by
watching the experts on the internet. Better yet, work alongside an uncle who has
butchered dozens of deer.
Venison is high in iron and B vitamins. Venison is leaner than beef, and cuts like top
round contain even less fat per serving than chicken breast. A scientific comparison of
three ounces of top round beef and top round venison showed these numbers, with
beef first: calories – 160/129; fat – 5grams/1.6 grams; protein – 26.9 grams/26.8
grams. Venison is good for you and tasty, with hundreds of great recipes waiting to be
tried.
However, with a deer hanging, it’s also time to consider the needy. Entire deer can be
donated, usually via a locker plant or local conservation group. Determine the best way
to donate a deer locally prior to season. If you cut it up with the help of a relative, be
generous by donating venison to other relatives. Make sure if you hunt on private land
that some of the best venison (loin or venison sausage) goes to the landowner.
What about the widow across the street? Maybe even your coach if you missed practice
to go hunting? Many soup kitchens in churches or Salvation Army headquarters will
gladly accept packaged and frozen venison. Ask first and then act. If you want to really
see smiles on people, volunteer at the dinners
where your deer is being served. There are more
ways than stories and pictures to share your
hunting experiences.
TIP:
Recycle your deer
hide by taking it
to
Mills Fleet Farm
and
trading it for a gi
ft
certificate.
28
Mills Fleet Farm
TV Host Loves it Outdoors! by Walleye Dan Eigen
I’m 46 years old and had my first hunting experience when I was around five. I wasn’t shooting
at that time, but I was holding ducks, geese, pheasants, etc. that my dad, his friends and family
harvested. These were the days that got me absolutely hooked on the outdoors.
Plucking ducks and geese in the barn on cold November evenings; making homemade blinds
with my brother and cousins out of straw; using parts from the ducks we cleaned to make
decoys was a big part of growing up. I don’t remember decoying anything to our blind, but we
were certainly hopeful as we waited with our BB guns.
As the years went on, I was blessed with many opportunities to hunt, fish and trap. I lived to
be outdoors, and it’s all because I was introduced at an early age (thanks dad). These days,
my wife Shelley and I run a fishing guide business -- Walleyedan’s Guide Service -- in central
Minnesota. We have a great group of experienced guides that take customers out daily.
I also host a television show called “We Love It! Outdoors” which is
presented by Mills Fleet Farm and produced by Lindner Media
Productions. This show has taken me to some awesome places to
hunt and fish with some awesome people! The show can be seen on
many Fox affiliates as well as on the Pursuit network. As an avid deer
hunter, I have had some great experiences in the field. These days, I
get just as much (maybe more) of a thrill hunting with my family.
SM
I will never forget one of my son’s first deer hunts. Mac and I were heading out and I told him
to make sure and go potty. He got that job done and was well aware that deer possess a keen
sense of smell. While on stand, Mac asked, “Dad, can deer smell hiccups?” This cracked me
up! Then there was the time daughter Elizabeth shot her first deer when she was 10. We had a
decoy out and a buck circled it, allowing her to get a good shot with her 20 gauge Mossberg.
I thought she missed, but when we went to take a look, I was wrong! She found blood and
followed the trail to a spike buck. Her shot was right on.
These are busy times, and I do feel guilty that I am not doing enough to get my own children out
in the field. But as I reflect on my childhood, it makes me realize that it is a required dad-duty
at the very least to give our kids the opportunities. If you are a hunter and you have some time
on your hands, please help a youngster get introduced to this awesome, God-given sport we
call hunting. Kids, ask your parents, uncles, grandpas and neighbors to get outside. To be good
stewards it is our job as adults to pass along our love of the outdoors and keep the hunting
heritage alive. It seems we march so fast through this world, but hunting and being in the woods
is one way to slow it down.
Walleyedan’s Guide Service
walleyedan.com
218-839-5598
29
a great
sota is wa
Minnekid
nt to hunt.
s who
state for
ota
Youth hunting licenses are free or offered at a reduced price. The Minnes
s safety
firearm
on-line
iendly
user-fr
offers
Depar tment of Natural Resources (DNR)
hunts.
red
mento
ted
ordina
instruction classes. Kids can even take part in DNR-co
to get outdoors
Minnesota also hosts a number of special events that encourage kids
is always the
or hunt with an adult. These include Take A Kid Hunting Weekend, which
is prior to the
Saturday and Sunday nearest Sept. 23, and Youth Waterfowl Day, which
regular waterfowl opener.
. Kids who have
The DNR also offers youth deer hunts and a special youth deer season
hunt can even do
not yet completed their required firearms safety training but want to
so under the apprentice hunter validation program.
youth safety
Together, the combination of low license fees, hunting opportunities and
easy for adults
requirements make Minnesota a good place for hunting kids. It’s also
key factor in
a
is
with
hunt
to
family
and
to introduce kids to hunting. Having friends
determining a child’s future hunting.
and trapping
Learn more about youth hunting opportunities in the Minnesota hunting
following
regulations handbook or by visiting the DNR’s website (MN DNR). The
information will help those planning to hunt this fall.
11 and
Youth hunting license fees: Resident deer licenses are free for 10,
license is
12-year-olds. Cost is just $5 for ages 13 to 17. The resident small game
16.
age
under
$5 for 16- and 17-year-olds and free for those
required of
Firearms Safety Certification: DNR firearms safety certification is
anyone born after Dec. 31, 1979. To be eligible, you must
be 11 years old or older. For class information and the
on-line course option, see the DNR website. Resident
youth under age 13 are allowed to hunt small game
without a firearms safety certificate, but they must
be accompanied by a parent or guardian.
TIP:
More information
on youth hunting
and trapping is
available on the
Minnesota DNR
website.
30