Air Plant – Tillandsia - Nassau County Extension

IFAS EXTENSION
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March/April 2016
Air Plant – Tillandsia
W
hen people use the term “air plant,”
they’re usually referring to Tillandsia spp.
These odd-looking plants have been getting new
attention recently, their rise in popularity having
a lot to do with how eye-catching they are
coupled with how little care they require.
People have become interested in using these
plants, which resemble small tufts of grass, to
create unique displays in their homes. With
over 500 different species of Tillandsia, it isn’t
surprising that a number of them make attractive
and interesting houseplants. As a bonus, some
have small, but beautiful, blooms as well.
Characteristics
Tillandsia plants are part of the bromeliad
family and areepiphytes, meaning they use plants
or other structures to support them. People
unfamiliar with epiphytes sometimes worry that
they damage the plants they grow on. Epiphytes
do attach themselves to plants, but they do not
harm the plants, unlike mistletoe, a plant parasite.
“Air” plants get their common name from the
fact that they get all of their nutrients from the
atmosphere.
Most species of Tillandsia have thin, stiff leaves
covered in scales, often giving them a fuzzy,
gray-green appearance. They have small flowers,
usually less than two inches in size.
Since they anchor themselves to something
other than soil, air plants can grow on or in a
variety of interesting and creative surfaces. Some
people like to grow air plants inside glass globes
that are suspended from ribbon or fishing lines.
You can also attach air plants to shells, pieces
of cork, bark, or laid on a bed of dry pebbles
in a shallow dish.You’re limited only by your
imagination.
Finding the right Tillandsia plant for inside your
home is more about picking one with the look
you want since the care for different species
will be about the same. If you are looking to
grow Tillandsia outside, be sure to check that
the species you select is suited for your USDA
Hardiness Zone. A good place to start is with
one of the native species, but take care when
purchasing.
Florida’s bromeliads, including Tillandsia, are
threatened by human collection and development,
as well as by the spread of the invasive Mexican
bromeliad weevil.You can help by learning more
about the bromeliad weevil and by never harvesting
air plants from the wild.
or in your landscape contact your local county
Extension office.
There are still air plants you can see plentiful in
nature. Spanish moss (Tillandsia usneoides) and ball
moss (Tillandsia recurvate) are quite commonly
found. Some other common Florida species are
broad needleleaf (T. simulata), Southern needleleaf
(T. setacea), and Bartram’s air plant (T. bartramii).
Planting and Care
While air plants are incredibly low-mainentance,
they do require three things: light, air circulation,
and an occasional light mist of water.
Tillandsia needs bright, but not direct, sunlight to
thrive. Keep your indoor air plants near a south,
east, or west window. Outside, Tillandsias will thrive
in an area of the landscape where they will receive
light shade and protection from direct sun.
Once a week, water your indoor air plant with a
good misting—to the point where water is running
off the plant.You should allow your plant to dry out
between waterings. Curled or rolled leaves indicate
that your Tillandsia is dehydrated.
Tillandsia does not always bloom indoors but if
yours does, expect to see flowers in late winter
and mid-summer. If blooms do come they can last
for days or even months. Be aware, the “mother”
plant will slowly die after it blooms, but new plants
will sprout from it.
Whatever surface you mount the Tillandsia on, be
sure that it doesn’t hold water.You can attach air
plants to a surface using an adhesive like liquid nails
or hot glue—just be sure to let the hot glue cool
slightly, or you can tie your plant to the mount
using wire.
Air plants can provide your home with a bit of
greenery that’s unique and easy to care for. For
more information on growing Tillandsia indoors
Page 2 - March/April 2016
Air plants growing on a tree in the Florida
Natural History Museum’s Butterfly Rainforest.
Program Announcements
Landscape Matters 10AM -11AM
Shade Gardens
Wednesday March 2
Master Gardener Carol Ann Atwood
Location
Yulee Satellite Office (attached to Fire Station #30)
86026 Pages Dairy Rd. Yulee, FL
Pollinators (Fee $5)
Wednesday March 9
Rebecca Jordi & Master Gardener Bea Walker
Location
Yulee Satellite Office (attached to Fire Station #30)
86026 Pages Dairy Rd. Yulee, FL
Bluebirds (Fee $20)
Wednesday March16
Master Gardener Candace Bridgewater
Location
Yulee Satellite Office (attached to Fire Station #30)
86026 Pages Dairy Rd. Yulee, FL
Hummingbirds (Fee $10)
Wednesday April 6
Rebecca Jordi
Location
Yulee Satellite Office (attached to Fire Station #30)
86026 Pages Dairy Rd. Yulee, FL
Snakes
Wednesday April 20
Master Gardener Karl Shaffer
Location
Yulee Satellite Office (attached to Fire Station #30)
86026 Pages Dairy Rd. Yulee, FL
Plant Clinics 10AM-2PM
Monday March 7
Monday March 21
Monday April 4
Monday April 18
Bring us your tired, diseased, insect infested
plants yearning to be free of problems. When
possible place your plant in a plastic bag to
prevent chances of spreading issues to other
plants.You will receive current researched
based information on proper plant care, disease
management and insect control. These sessions
are free to the public. No registration required.
Come anytime between 10AM and 2PM for
expert advice.
Location
Yulee Satellite Office
(attached to Fire Station #30)
86026 Pages Dairy Rd.
Yulee, FL
Page 3 - March/April 2016
Fresh from the Garden
by Joseph Smith, Master Gardener
H
ello everybody! Welcome back to Harvest Gold! March is here, and spring is upon us. Soon
everything will be turning green. And speaking of green, St. Patrick’s Day is right around the corner.
St. Patrick is the Patron Saint of Ireland, and is celebrated throughout the world on March 17th by both
the Irish, and Irish wannabes. St. Patrick’s Day is celebrated not only to honor the good Saint, but also to
honor all that is Irish. Besides shamrocks and leprechauns, I cannot think of anything more Irish than a
potato.
Actually, now that I am thinking about it, I can think of a lot of things more Irish than a potato, because
potatoes are not native to Ireland. What we normally call “Irish” potatoes are really native to South
America. The Spanish introduced potatoes to Spain from South America in the late 1500’s, and from
Spain, the cultivation of potatoes spread throughout Europe and around the world.
Today, potatoes are a staple crop in many countries, and are one of the most popular vegetables in the
United States. Potatoes are a cool season crop, and are easily grown in Nassau County. Potatoes are
Page 4 - March/April 2016
best planted around here anywhere from about mid-January through mid-March, and the earlier, the
better.
Since potato varieties grown in Florida can be quite different from those grown in other parts of the
country, be sure to buy only seed potatoes guaranteed to grow in Florida from a reputable dealer. To
avoid disease and viruses, plant only certified disease-free seed potatoes.
Prepare seed potatoes by cutting each potato into several pieces, each about the size of a small egg, with
at least one eye per seed piece. Allow cut seed pieces to heal for a day or two in a cool, dark, wellventilated place before planting. Form beds into hills at least 10 to 12 inches tall and about 36 inches
apart to insure proper drainage. Incorporate organic matter such as compost, and a complete fertilizer
such as 10-10-10 (about 7 ½ pounds per 100 feet of row), into the soil when preparing beds. Plant
seed potatoes in the prepared beds about 4inches deep and 6 to 8 inches apart with the eyes facing up.
About 3 to 4 weeks after planting, side dress with another 7 ½ pounds of fertilizer per 100 feet of row in
bands about 4 to 6 inches to either side of the plants. Work this additional fertilizer into the soil. When
potato sprouts emerge from the soil, hill up rows by adding 2 to 3 inches of soil to the row. Suppress
weeds by hoeing, hand pulling, and/or using mulch. If a freeze is forecast, cover very small plants with
soil or mulch to prevent frostbite. Irrigate potatoes during dry spells, but avoid overwatering—maintain
moderate moisture levels throughout the growing season.
Harvest potatoes about a week or two after the plants die back (about 80 to 110 days after planting),
and cure in a moderately-cool, dark, well-ventilated place for about 2 weeks to allow cuts and bruises to
heal. After curing, move potatoes to a final storage location with high relative humidity, good aeration,
and a cool temperature. Do not refrigerate. Under proper conditions, potatoes can be stored for 3 to 6
months or more.
Potatoes are a healthy addition to any diet. One medium potato (including skin) is fat free and contains
only about 150 calories. Potatoes are an excellent source of potassium, fiber, and Vitamins C and B6.
Potatoes contain adequate amounts of several other vitamins and minerals, and are naturally low in
sodium.
For more information about growing potatoes, see EDIS publication #HS933, Growing Potatoes in the
Florida Home Garden (http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/hs183).
While we are on the subject of potatoes, I might as well mention sweet potatoes. Like the “Irish,” or
white potato, sweet potatoes are from South America. From there, the cultivation of sweet potatoes
spread throughout the world. Sweet potatoes are a great warm season crop for Nassau County, as they
require a long growing season and love the heat.
Page 5 - March/April 2016
Here in Nassau County, sweet potatoes are best planted between Easter and the 4th of July. Plant 6 to
9 inch long certified disease-free slips or vines 6 inches deep about a foot apart in one foot high hilled
rows. Rows should be spaced about 4 ½ feet apart to allow for proper drainage. Sweet potatoes grow
well in sandy soil and don’t require much fertilizer, but do benefit from incorporating about 3 pounds of a
balanced fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, and a generous amount of compost per 100 feet of bed into the soil
when hilling the beds. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizers during the growing season. Water well after planting,
and in dry weather irrigate at a rate of 1 inch per week until 2 weeks before harvest. Avoid excessive
water to prevent plants from rotting. Mulch the vines 2 weeks after planting to smother weeds, conserve
moisture, and keep the soil loose for root development. Occasionally lift longer vines to keep them from
rooting at the joints, or they will put their energy into forming many undersized tubers at each rooted
area rather than ripening the main crop at the base of the plant. Also, new plants can be started from
vine cuttings.
Sweet potatoes will be ready to harvest about 120 days after planting, or as soon as the leaves start
to yellow, but for a sweeter crop and higher yield, harvest as late in the season as possible. Harvest
immediately if plants are hit by frost. Dig tubers on a sunny day when the soil is dry, and allow potatoes
to dry in the sun for several hours. Cure harvested sweet potatoes in a dark, warm room for at
least two weeks before eating. Once cured, store sweet potatoes in a cool, dry location, but do not
refrigerate.
Sweet potatoes are packed with nutrition, and are rich in manganese, potassium,Vitamins A, B6, and C,
and are a good source of riboflavin, niacin, thiamin, and several other essential vitamins and minerals.
Sweet potatoes are also fat free, high in fiber, low in sodium, and contain only 180 calories per one cup
serving.
For more information on growing sweet potatoes, see http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/
vegetables/sweet-potatoes.html.
Well, my friends, that should do it for today. Until next time, Happy St. Patrick’s Day, Happy Easter, God
Bless, and Happy Harvesting!
Peace and Goodness,
Joseph
Page 6 - March/April 2016
Paddy O’Toole’s
Corned Beef and Cabbage
Ingredients
• 3½ Pound Corned Beef Brisket (With Spice Packet)
• 1 Large Cabbage (Cut into Small Wedges)
• 12 Small Red Potatoes (Cut in Half)
• 1 Onion (Diced)
• 6 Carrots (Cut into 2 Inch Pieces)
• Yellow or Brown Mustard
• Horseradish (Optional)
Directions
Put corned beef in a large pot, and cover with water. Add spice packet. Cover and bring to a boil.
Reduce heat and simmer for about 2½ to 3 hours, or until tender. Add potatoes, carrots, and onion, and
cook until vegetables are almost tender. Add cabbage, and cook for 15 more minutes. Remove meat, and
let rest for 15 minutes. Place vegetables in a bowl and cover. Add as much broth from cooking liquid
reserved in pot to vegetables as desired. Slice corned beef, and serve with mustard and/or horseradish.
Notes
This simple recipe comes down from my sainted mother, God rest her soul. I have many sweet memories
of the times she would prepare this for the family when I was but a wee lad on the old sod. Erin go
Bragh! (Reprinted from March 2013.)
Recipe courtesy of Paddy O’Toole.
Page 7 - March/April 2016
Helen’s Colcannon
Ingredients
• 8 Potatoes
• 1/3 Pint Milk
• 6 Scallions
• 1½ Cups Boiled Green Cabbage or Curly Kale (Finely Chopped)
• 1 Ounce Butter
• 1 Tablespoon Chopped Fresh Parsley
• Salt and Pepper (To Taste)
Directions
Peel the potatoes and steep in cold water for 1 hour. Drain, and then cover the potatoes with cold
salted water and boil until tender. Drain again, and dry potatoes off by laying a folded cloth on top of pot
and returning the pot to a gentle heat for a few minutes. Remove potatoes from heat and mash. Add
boiling milk and scalded chopped scallions to the mashed potatoes, and beat until fluffy. Toss the finely
chopped cooked cabbage or kale gently in the melted butter. Add greens to the potatoes and parsley, and
fold well. Season generously with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Notes
In Ireland, colcannon is traditionally served in the fall, when potatoes, cabbage, and kale are in season. On
Halloween, people often mix a miniature horseshoe, a thimble, a button, a silver sixpence, and a wedding
ring each wrapped in white paper into the dish. These items are said to forecast the fortunes of those
who find them in their portion. The silver sixpence denotes wealth, the horseshoe good fortune, the
thimble a spinster, the button a bachelor, and the ring marriage and happiness ever after. I like to serve
this traditional Irish dish on St. Patrick’s Day, along with corned beef and cabbage and a pint of Guinness.
Recipe courtesy of Helen McDevitt-Smith.
Page 8 - March/April 2016
Carol’s Sweet Potato Fries
with Dill Sauce
Ingredients
• 3 or 4 Medium Sweet Potatoes
• Several Tablespoons Olive Oil
• Salt and Black Pepper (To Taste)
• Garlic Powder (Optional, To Taste)
• Onion Powder (Optional, To Taste)
• Crushed Cayenne Pepper (Optional, To Taste)
Dill Sauce
• 1 Cup Greek Yogurt or Sour Cream
• 1 Cup Mayonnaise
• Several Tablespoons Fresh Dill (Finely Chopped)
• 1 Clove Garlic (Minced)
• 1 Teaspoon Fresh Lemon Juice
• Salt and Black Pepper (To Taste)
Directions
Prepare dill sauce beforehand by adding all ingredients for the dill sauce to a bowl and mixing well.
Refrigerate sauce for at least one hour, or better yet, overnight. Cut sweet potatoes into ½ inch sticks
or wedges. Toss in a large bowl with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper, add optional spices if desired,
and toss again. Place on a cookie sheet, and bake at 350 Degrees Fahrenheit for about 15 to 20 minutes,
then flip over. Bake potatoes for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until done. Serve with dill sauce as a dip.
Notes
These sweet potato fries are a healthy alternative to regular French fries, and the kids love them. Hope
you all like them too.
Recipe courtesy of Carol Rhodes.
Page 9 - March/April 2016
Page 10 - March/April 2016
Joseph’s Easter Eggs
Ingredients
• 1 Dozen Eggs
• Water
• PAAS® Easter Egg Dye
Directions
Take the eggs out of the carton. Place the eggs in a pot, cover with water, and boil (use an egg timer
to make sure they come out perfect). Mix PAAS® Easter Egg Dye according to the directions on the
package. Submerge the eggs in the Easter egg dye until the desired hue is achieved. Remove the eggs
from the dye, and let dry. Hide the eggs around the garden or in the yard.
Notes
I am not a cook, but I have boiled eggs. This is one of my few personal recipes. Enjoy, and Happy Easter!
Recipe courtesy of Joseph R. Smith.
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Page 11 - March/April 2016
Florida Fresh: Cantaloupes
Nutrition Facts
Florida cantaloupes are:
•
High in vitamin A. Vitamin A aids in maintaining normal
vision and healthy skin, and protects against infections.
•
High in vitamin C. Vitamin C helps to heal cuts and keeps
teeth and gums healthy.
•
A good source of potassium. Potassium helps control blood pressure.
•
Naturally free of cholesterol and low in sodium.
Note: Cantaloupes are a variety of melons. There are other varieties of melons such as casaba and honeydew
melons that are not included in this fact sheet.
Why buy locally?
The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) estimates that the average farmers' market produce travels about 50
miles to its destination, compared to 2,000 miles for supermarket produce.
Buy locally and get these benefits:
•
Freshness and good nutrition. Fruits and vegetables harvested in their peak have better flavor and
nutritional characteristics.
•
Social/cultural. Helps the community to be aware of the importance of agriculture.
•
Environmental. Protects the natural resources such as green space, wildlife, water, air, and soil.
•
Economic. Promotes local labor force.
Where are Florida's cantaloupes harvested?
Florida’s cantaloupes are harvested throughout the state, but the majority of the crops are in Central Florida.
Florida is an important producer thanks to the warm sunshine and frost-free seasons.
When can you buy Florida cantaloupes?
You can buy Florida cantaloupes from March through July. This is five months out of the year!
Select:
•
Sweet-smelling cantaloupes with a soft stem end, and a creamy yellow-colored rind. These are ripe and at
their peak flavor.
•
Symmetrical, well-shaped cantaloupes.
•
Cantaloupes that are heavy for their size.
•
Cantaloupes without bruises, soft spots, and cracked rinds.
Consider these tips: Wash any kind of melons before cutting. Cut melons must be refrigerated in sealed
containers.
Page 12 - March/April 2016
Florida State Marine Mammal
West Indian Manatee (Trichechus manatus latirostris)
Size: up to 13 feet long and 3,000 pounds
Credit: U.S.F.W.S.
Range: concentrated in Florida. In summer, sparsely found in Alabama, Virginia, and the Carolinas
Habitat: rivers, canals, estuaries, saltwater bays
Fun Facts:
•
Eats 60-100 pounds of aquatic vegetation each day
•
Sleep on the bottom; surface every 5-20 minutes to breathe
•
Related to elephants, hyraxes, and aardvarks
In 1975, the legislature designated the West Indian manatee the state marine mammal. Although the name has
at times caused confusion, the West Indian manatee is native to Florida as well as the West Indies (Caribbean
Islands) and portions of Central and South America. The manatee is a large, slow-moving mammal that lives
in Florida’s coastal estuaries and rivers, where it eats massive quantities of aquatic plants. These gentle giants
must surface for air approximately every five minutes, which puts them in danger of collision with motorboats.
Approximately 25 percent of all recorded manatee deaths are caused by motorboats, and many more animals
are injured each year. Slow speed zones have been implemented in many Florida waterways in an effort
to protect manatees. In 1973, the manatee was added to the endangered species list. Today, manatees are
estimated to number 2,500-3,500 animals in Florida.
Page 13 - March/April 2016
Wildlife Happenings
March
Finally we’ve got the beginning of Spring, at least officially. With the warmer weather we should start
seeing a lot of animal behavior we haven’t seen since...well, since last spring.
Birds
• Migrating birds from Central and South America visit the state.
• Mourning doves nest now through November.
• Carolina wrens are nesting now.
• Mangrove cuckoos return to the Keys.
• Summer tanagers and great-crested flycatchers arrive to breed.
• Swallow tailed kites return to south Florida wetlands.
• Listen for newly-returned chuck-will’s-widows calling after sunset.
• Plant columbine, coral bean, and other wildflowers to attract hummingbirds.
• Wild turkey and quail begin breeding in central and north Florida.
• Quail are breeding in many parts of the state
Mammals
• Look for red foxes emerging from remote beaches.
• Last chance to see manatee concentrations in the Caloosahatchee River this winter.
• Striped skunks are fighting over mates - watch out!
Amphibians
• Male frogs and toads move to ponds, streams, and ditches to breed during rainy nights
Reptiles
• Snakes become active and move to favorite feeding areas
Fish
• Gulf of Mexico Sturgeon spawn in the Suwannee River during the spring or early summer.
• Largemouth bass spawning throughout central and north Florida
• Redear sunfish begin bedding in central Florida
• White bass run up the Ochlockonee River above Lake Talquin.
Plants & Trees
• Chicksaw plum and crabapples bloom in north Florida
• Bromeliads flower in south Florida
Page 14 - March/April 2016
Wildlife Happenings
April
April brings spring into full force for Florida, so here are some spring-like animal behaviors to look for this
April:
Birds
• Sooty Turns take over Dry Tortugas for nesting.
• Bobwhite quail nest now through September.
• Migrant warblers concentrate on coasts after cold fronts.
• Watch for hummingbirds feeding on blooms of columbine, buckeye, and others.
• Grosbeaks, warblers, tanagers, orioles, and thrashers begin returning to North America
Mammals
• Black bears begin moving after winter’s inactivity.
• Long-tailed weasels, minks, and river otters will be born April through May.
• Endangered Gray Bats return to Florida caves to raise young.
• Manatees move up the Wakulla and St. Marks rivers
Amphibians
• Pine barrens treefrogs begin calling.
Reptiles
• Most Florida snakes begin mating rituals.
• Beginning of Sea Turtle nesting season on Florida beaches.
• Alligators begin moving about, seeking new territories and mates
Fish
• Largemouth Bass move into shallow water in Lake Talquin.
• The cobia migration is in full swing in the Panhandle
Insects
• Plant extra parsley for black swallowtail butterfly larvae to eat.
Plants
• Blooming wildflowers and pitcher plants blanket the wet savannahs of the Apalachicola National
Forest
Page 15 - March/April 2016
March Checklist
Citrus:
Always remove graft freeze protection once threat of freeze is
over. Fertilize program begins for lemon, orange, kumquat using citrus fertilizer.
Follow fertilizer label for frequency (slow release is used less often). Check for
citrus insects and disease, apply fungicide just at new leaf flush or after bloom
drop.
Fruit:
For mature Loquat trees, fertilize trees 2 to 3 times per year. The
fertilizer should be applied just before or at bloom, perhaps during late fall, again in March, and once during the
summer. The fertilizer mix should also include phosphate (P2O5) and potash (K2O); use a 6-6-6, 8-3-9 or similar
material.
Flowers:
Water as needed. Over-watering causes root and stem rot. Opt for drought tolerant plants such as
purslane or periwinkle. Group your plants together according to their watering and light requirements. Bulbs will
be in full bloom. To conserve plant energy, cut off the old seedpods after flowering. Fertilize perennials this month
if you missed last month. Plant poinsettias in landscape during late March. Cut back plants to within 12 to 18
inches of ground level. Pinch back new growth every four weeks until September 10. Fertilize monthly from May to
September. Ageratum, alyssum, amaranthus, asters, baby’s breath, balsam, begonias, browallia, calendulas, calliopsis,
celosia, coleus, cosmos, crossandras, dahlias, dusty miller exacums, gaillardias, gazania, geraniums, hollyhocks,
impatiens, kalanchoe, lobelias, Marguerite daisies, marigolds, nicotine, ornamental peppers, pentas, phlox rudbeckias,
salvia, strawflowers, streptocarpus, sweet William, thunbergia alata, torenia, verbenas, periwinkles, and zinnias can be
planted.
Herbs: Anise, basil, bay laurel, borage, caraway, cardamom,chervil, chives, coriander, culantro, cumin, dill, fennel,
ginger, horehound, lemon balm, lavender, lovage, marjoram, Mexican tarragon, mint, parsley, oregano, rosemary, sage,
savory, sesame, thyme and watercress can be planted now.
Roses: Continue spray program (every 7-10 days). Water as needed. March 15, apply liquid fertilizer. Check your
micro irrigation system (leaks, dirt in system, timers)
Lawns: I know it is hard to wait, but fertilization should begin April 15 - see below. Watering may change this
month but unless grass is actively growing, err on the side of less water rather than more. March is the month to
add a pre-emergent weed killer to lawns if you have had a problem in the past with summer weeds.
Shrubs: Prune and fertilize azaleas with acid fertilizer as soon as they finish blooming. Azaleas may be transplanted
now as well. Overgrown shrubs can be cut back using selective pruning, avoid shearing these shrubs. Dr. Ed Gilman’s
UF/IFAS publication on pruning shrubs and trees is an excellent source of information: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/
MG/MG08700.pdf
Trees: Make sure younger trees maintain a straight trunk as new growth begins. Remove or prune all limbs
competing with the central leader. Fertilize Tea Olive using acid loving fertilizer. Palms should have a “palm special”
fertilizer applied over the root system under the spread of the fronds. The configuration should be 8-2-12-4 (N-P-KMg). Ideally this would also include manganese, boron, sulfur, etc. with appropriate formulations. Use a slow release
fertilizer March, June and September. Anything within 30 feet of the palm should just be getting palm fertilizer.
Nutrient deficiencies may take months to recover so please use an appropriate palm fertilizer.
Vegetables: Have soil tested prior to planting. The pH and the nutrient content of the soil is an important
factor in production of vegetables. This month’s choices for planting include snap beans, pole beans, lima beans,
beets, cantaloupes, carrots, celery, collards, corn, cucumber, eggplant, endive/escarole, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, okra,
bunching onions, parsley, English peas, Southern peas, peppers, potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, radishes, summer
squash, winter squash, tomatoes, turnips, and watermelon. Be sure to use the Florida Vegetable Guide when
selecting the best cultivars for our area: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/vh021.
Page 16 - March/April 2016
April Checklist
Citrus:
Depending on citrus fertilizer label, apply
fertilizer every six weeks or as directed. Check
for citrus insects; apply ultrafine horticulture oil or
insecticidal soap before 10am or after 6pm if insects
are detected. Check for diseases; apply fungicide just
at new leaf flush or after bloom drop. Maintain 2-3’
unmulched area just outside the root ball (which
would be 12-18 inches away from the trunk).
Fruit:
Weed as needed. Apply Azalea fertilizer
to blueberry shrubs, at 1/2 pound per 3’ of shrub.
Granular fertilizer may require about 1/4 inch of
water to allow the root to absorb the nutrients.
Blueberries can begin fertilization program using
acid loving fertilizer in February, April, June, August
and October in small amounts. Apply general garden
fertilizer to plum trees. Weed as needed.
Flowers:
Annuals to plant now include celosia,
coleus, coreopsis, dusty miller, geraniums, hollyhocks,
impatiens, kalanchoe, lobelias, marigolds, portulacas,
rudbeckias, salvia, verbenas, zinnias. Groom to reshape perennials. Prune hard to correct growth problems. Divide
overcrowded fall flowering perennials and bulbs. Bulbs to be planted now include achimenes, agapanthus, amaryllis,
Asiatic lilies, begonias, blood lily, caladiums, cannas, crinum, dahlia, gladiolus, gloriosa lily and zephyranthes.
Herbs:
Anise, basil, bay laurel, borage, caraway, cardamom, chervil, chives, coriander, culantro, cumin, dill, garlic,
ginger, horehound, lemon balm, lavender, marjoram, Mexican tarragon, mint, nasturtium, parsley, oregano, rosemary,
sage, sesame, and thyme can be planted now.
Roses: Begin watching roses for black spot fungus disease, small black spots on the leaves can quickly worsen.
Continue spray program. Water as needed. April 15, apply granular rose fertilizer. Cut and remove spent blooms.
Check for spider mites (wash underside of leaves with strong water pressure). Add mulch, 2-3 inches deep (oak
leaves, cedar pine straw).
Lawns:
Water during early morning when the leaves curl and turn gray-green. Reduce fertilizers and pesticides
during seasons of drought. Select a fertilizer with the configuration of 15-0-15 or 16-0-8 which represents nitrogen
(N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) respectively to lawns on April 15. Follow the directions on the label. No
“weed and feed products”, winterizers, turfbuilders, etc. They generally contain too much nitrogen compared to
potassium Keep mower height at the highest setting for grass type. Apply no more than 1 inch of sand to uneven
areas for leveling. Allow grass clippings to stay on the lawn as long as grass is healthy..
Trees:
Most older trees and palms are fine and can exist with the seasonal rains. Look for aphid, borer, and scale
infestations. Caterpillars may be extra heavy this month.
Vegetables:
This month you can plant snap beans, pole beans, lima beans, cantaloupe, collards, corn, cucumbers,
eggplant, kohlrabi, okra, Southern peas, pumpkin, peppers, squash, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, turnips, watermelon,
and yams.
Selected from Florida Vegetable Guide by JM Stephens, RA Dunn, G Kidder, D Short, & GW Simone, University of Florida and
Month-by-Month Gardening in Florida by Tom MacCubbin
Page 17 - March/April 2016
Garden Talk - with Rebecca Jordi
Q: You often talk about not overusing Nitrogen
fertilizers but isn’t it needed to keep the grass
growing?
A: Nitrogen is important for growth but we
generally use too much. A little fertilizer can perk
up a St. Augustinegrass lawn as spring arrives, but
homeowners who overdo it may find they’re growing
more than grass.
A University of Florida study suggests repeatedly
using large amounts of nitrogen fertilizer can ignite a
population explosion of Southern chinch bugs – the
No. 1 insect pest of St. Augustinegrass, the state’s
most popular turfgrass.
“Everything in moderation,” said Eileen Buss, an
associate professor of entomology with UF’s Institute
of Food and Agricultural Sciences. “When we try to
overly manage a natural system we get the balance
out of whack.”
UF turfgrass experts advise homeowners to use no
more than 1 pound of slow-release nitrogen fertilizer
per 1,000 square feet of lawn, a recommendation
found in the document “St. Augustinegrass for Florida
Lawns,” available at
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/LH010
In the study, Southern chinch bugs produced the
most eggs on St. Augustinegrass fed the equivalent of
2 pounds nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per month.
That rate is a worst-case scenario, Buss said, but not
unrealistic because people sometimes deliberately
overfertilize in their zest to have the greenest lawn in
the neighborhood.
Resistant chinch bugs may be able to survive exposure to bifenthrin, a pyrethroid which is the top choice for
Southern chinch bug control in Florida. However, pyrethroids should still perform well against nonresistant
populations of Southern chinch bugs.
Future research may examine the role of the nutrients phosphorus and potassium in chinch bug population growth,
and the possibility of overfertilization may reduce turfgrass resistance to chinch bugs. Use 15-0-15 starting in April
and use is in small increments until September so the plant can absorb it and grow slowly.
Page 18 - March/April 2016
Q: Would Tea Olive be a good hedge choice here?
A: Tea Olive, Osmanthus fragrans, is a small
evergreen tree or shrub which can grow up
to 25 feet tall but typically is about 15 feet
tall with10 feet spread. The lustrous, medium
green leaves have paler undersides and are
joined from October through March by a
multitude of small, but extremely fragrant,
white blossoms. They perfume a large area
of the landscape and can be showy in some
years. I believe they would make an excellent
hedge as long as you kept them tall. It
tolerates full sun to part shade but does
poorly in wet sites and where soil does
not drain well. It is not salt tolerant and
although can fit into a landscape well with
typical lawn irrigation, the one at my office
receives no additional water outside rainfall
and does beautifully. No pests or diseases are of major concern. Scales and nematodes may present a problem, and
mushroom root rot is troublesome when the soil is kept too wet. With its upright oval to columnar growth habit
in youth, Sweet Osmanthus is ideal for use as an unclipped hedge or trained as a small tree, and should be placed
where its fragrance can be enjoyed. Since the flowers are not particularly showy, people will wonder from where
the delightful fragrance originates. This is a subtle plant which should be used more often in Southern landscapes.
Plants thin somewhat in the partial shade, but form a dense crown in a sunny location. Planted on 4 to 6 foot
centers, Sweet Osmanthus can form a wall of fragrance during the fall, winter and spring and should be planted
more often. They will not grow as fast as Leyland Cypress,but think of this Osmanthus as a substitute for use in a
sunny spot. Plants can be clipped to form a denser canopy, but flowers form on old stems.
Q: What can you tell me about the Japanese blueberry shrub
and can I grow it here?
A: Japanese blueberry, Elaeocarpus decipens, can be grown in
our cold hardiness zone. This evergreen tree grows about 30
to 40 feet tall and equally as wide. Japanese blueberry prefers
well drained soil and full sun. Some interior foliage turns bright
red and drops in spring and periodically throughout the year.
This is normal and is not cause for concern. Japanese blueberry
has small, inconspicuous fragrant flowers. It has a propensity
to become chlorotic on high pH soils so this might limit using
it in commercial or home sites where soil is often alkaline. It is
too difficult to lower the pH for any substantial amount of time
to keep the plant lush and green in an alkaline environment.
The high production of fruit may cause it to be messy on
walkways. However, berry production should not be a problem
if using it as a hedge in a home landscape. Just keep its shrub
away from driveways and sidewalks. Piercing sucking insects
may be a problem, but early scouting of insect feeding can be
controlled with either insecticidal soap or ultrafine horticulture
oil. Formation of sooty mold is your best indication the pest
populations have become too high.
Page 19 - March/April 2016
Nassau County is proud to provide you with this information. Horticulture News is a joint project with contributions
by county agents and Master Gardener Volunteers.
Sincerely,
UF/IFAS
Nassau County Extension
543350 US Highway #1
Callahan, FL 32011
Tel: 904.530.6351 (Yulee)
Tel: 904.530.6353 (Callahan)
E-mail: rljordi@ufl.edu
Visit us online at
http://nassau.ifas.ufl.edu
Find us on Facebook:
facebook.com/NassauCountyExtension
Garden Talk
Rebecca L. Jordi,
County Extension Director
Horticulture Agent IV
The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal
Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational
information, and other services only to individuals and institutions that
function without discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion,
age, disability, sex, sexual orientation, marital status, national origin,
political opinions, or affiliations. USDA, UF/IFAS Extension, FAMU
and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating.
- with Rebecca Jordi
Q: Please identify this weed for me. Thanks.
A: The weed is hairy bittercress, Cardamine hirsute, and
it typically is a winter annual but it will continue to grow
in shaded, moist areas if it is not pulled or controlled.
It produces large numbers of seeds which have a high
germination rate. This, of course, means almost all the
seeds become adult plants. It would be nice to have this
kind of production rate on our vegetables and flowers!
The basal leaves somewhat resemble parsley and it
has a small cluster of white flowers at the top. Hairy
bittercress often comes with contain plants so consider
removing any weed from pots before you bring them
home. I always return them back to the nursery and tell
them I will not pay for plants I do not want! No one every
laughs but better to dispose of them at the nursery
then let them become a problem in your landscape.
There is another weed, very similar looking to the Hairy
bittercress but its leaves are much smaller and it prefers
dry soils. Neither weed is a bonus in the landscape.