MRD Service Guide

Transcription

MRD Service Guide

1
Table of Contents
Description
Page
Introduction
3
Disassembly/Assembly Instructions – Casting systems
Hex Thru Axle Installation
4- 9
9
Noble Air system Service Instructions
10 - 15
MRD Damping system Service Instructions
16 - 26
Technical Data
27
Service Kit Matrix
28
Fork Torque Specs
29
Trouble shooting Tips
30 - 31
Contact Information
Hayes Bicycle Group
Tech Support
6750 W. Florist Ave.
Milwaukee, WI. 53218
Toll Free:
Direct:
FAX:
E-mail:
Web site:
(888) 686-3472
(414) 462-0021
(414) 462-0214
hayestech@hayesbicycle.com
www.manitoumtb.com
2
INTRODUCTION
This manual is intended to guide the user through basic service of Manitou front forks.
Service is supported by the identification of common parts and assemblies that have
been assembled into Service Kits. The purpose of this manual will be to describe
conditions that may drive the need for service and to provide installation instructions for
the kits.
Due to the time-consuming nature of suspension fork service, at this time our primary
focus is to offer service kits that minimize the amount of downtime and labor involved.
Important information is highlighted in this manual by the following notations:
WARNING
Failure to follow WARNING instructions could result in severe injury or death to the
person inspecting or repairing the suspension fork or the user.
CAUTION
A CAUTION a caution indicates special precautions that must be taken to avoid damage to
the product.
NOTE
A NOTE provides key information to make procedures easier or clearer
GENERAL WARNING: Suspension forks by design can contain preloaded springs,
gases and fluids under extreme pressure and warnings contained in this manual
must be observed to reduce the possibility of injury or possible death. Following
these instructions can help you reduce the risk of being injured. Any questions in
regards to the information in this manual should be directed to HBG Tech Support
at (888) 686-3472.
WARNING: Suspension forks uses preloaded spring(s) to provide compression spring
resistance. This system must be relieved of preload prior to servicing. Failure to relieve
air pressure could result in injury or possible death.
CAUTION: Suspension forks use precision machined aluminum and other soft alloy components.
Using correct tools for assembly is essential to prevent damage.
3
MRD Casting Service
Includes Semi Bath change, seal change, and casting change
Tool List: 12mm wrench, 1.5mm Allen, 7mm Allen, Park Green Pin Spanner (or similar), Shock Pump
WARNING: This fork uses compressed air to provide spring resistance and must be
relieved of pressure prior to servicing. Failure to relieve air pressure could result in
injury or possible death.
1. Using a shock pump slowly release the air pressure from the Noble Air
System through the valve on the bottom of the left fork leg. Please Note: When
the air is removed too rapidly, it will cause air to be trapped in the negative air
chamber causing the fork to "suck down". If this happens, it is easily fixed by
pumping up the air spring back up above the pressure that you originally had in
the system and then release the air slowly
2. Remove the 12mm nut from the compression rod on the bottom of the left
leg.
3. Remove the blue rebound knob on the bottom of the right leg with a 1.5mm
Allen wrench. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as they
are very small and easily lost.
4
4. Remove the detent balls and springs from the Detent Housing.
5. Remove the Detent housing by unscrewing it counter-clockwise using a green
Park Tool pin spanner (or similar tool) inserted into the holes that the springs
and detent balls sit in.
6. Using a 7mm Allen wrench, usnscrew the rebound assembly from the casting
by turning it clockwise.
7. Pull the casting off the Crown Steerer assembly. It is best to do this over some
type of drip pan to catch the semi-bath that is in the outer legs. Throughly clean
out the casting to get any contamiated oil and dirt out. If you are changing the
fork seals, proceed to the next step, if not go to step 13.
8. To remove the dust seals, first remove the seal tension springs (otherwise
they will get damaged), then take a large flat-bladed screwdriver and insert the
tip between the bottom of the seal and the top of the foam wiper.
5
9. Push down on the screwdriver. This will pop the seal out of the casting. Next
remove the foam oil ring.
10. Oil the foam rings (new or after cleaning the old rings) with a small amount of
semi-bath oil and place them in the top of the casting above the Upper Bushings.
11. Install the dust seal into the leg, use a large socket or piece of round tubing
that is large enough in diameter to press on the outside shoulder of the seal
rather than putting pressure on the sealing lip and spring so that they are not
damaged. Repeat steps 9-12 for the opposite fork leg.
12. Extend the compression rod and the rebound shaft fully, check to see if the
face seal on the rebound shaft and the o-ring on the compression rod are
damaged. If so, replace them, otherwise it is OK to reuse them.
6
Pinched
13. Slide the casting onto the stanchions being careful not to pinch the lip on the
dust seals. Once the seals are on the legs slide the legs down about 3/4 of the
way down.
Correct
14. Hold the fork at approximately a 45 degree angle with the drop outs up.
Using a squeeze bottle or syringe put 16cc(16ml) of Semi Bath (5w40 synthetic
oil) into each leg of the fork. Be careful that the oil is not poured into the end of
the rebound shaft or the air valve on the end of the compression rod. After the
Semi Bath is in each leg, slide the casting down the rest of the way until the
casting makes contact with the rebound shaft.
15. Using the 7mm Allen, turn the rebound shaft counter-clockwise to screw the
rebound assembly into the casting. Tighten it to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).
Note:You may need to put a slight amount side pressure on the Allen wrench
and pull out on the rebound shaft to get it to start in the casting. Warning: Do not
overtighten the rebound damper assembly into the casting, it will cause damage
to the sealing o-ring on the end of the shaft and cause the semi bath oil to leak
out of the casting. It is recommended to use a torque wrench when tightening
this assembly.
16. Screw the detent assembly clockwise on to the portion of thread of the
rebound shaft that protrudes out of the casting. Using a tool like the Park Tool
Pin Spanner and the 7mm Allen wrench, tighten the Detent Housing in a
clockwise direction while holding the rebound shaft stationary with the Allen
wrench. Tighten the Detent Housing to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).
7
17. Insert a small spring into each of the holes on the detent assembly, apply a
small amount of grease on top of the spring to hold the detent balls, and then
place a detent ball on top of each spring.
18. Place the blue rebound knob on the needle in the rebound assembly and
attach it with the machine screw using the 1.5mm wrench. Tighten it to 5-8inlbs
(.6-.9N-m) and be sure to use blue LocTite on the threads.
19. Install the 12mm nut that secures the compression rod in the left fork leg.
Tighten it in a clockwise direction to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m). If there is not a
washer located under the 12mm nut, place a thin washer onto the exposed
threaded shaft protruding through the casting before you reinstall the nut.
20. Pressurize the main spring by turning your bike upside down, install the air
pump on to the schrader valve and then inflate to the pressure that you normally
use. Now, go have a great ride!
8
32mm Leg Thru Axle and Quick Release Thru Axle Instructions
Standard Hex Thru Axle
Removal Instructions
Removal of Hex Thru Axle
1. Loosen the two 3mm clamp-fixing bolts on the right fork leg. (See Fig. 1)
2. Remove the Thru Axle nut from the right side of the Thru Axle.
3. Loosen the two 3mm clamp-fixing bolts on the left fork leg.
4. Push the Hex Thru Axle out of the dropouts from left to right and
completely remove it and the front wheel from the fork.
Assembly Instructions
Fig. 1
Installation of Hex Thru Axle
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Fig. 2
6.
7.
Insert the Clamp Nuts (See Fig.3 – A) into the small hexagonal
hole in each of the drop outs.
Start two clamp fixing bolts (See Fig.3 – C) in each dropout.
Do not tighten these bolts down at this time
Hold the wheel between the dropouts of the fork.
Insert Hex Thru Axle small hex first into the outside of the left
drop out (as you are facing the fork) and push it through the hub
of the wheel, and into the right drop out.
Thread the Thru Axle nut into the end of the axle that is in the
right drop out. Thread the Thru Axle nut all of the way in.
Tighten the 3mm clamp fixing bolts to the specified torque value
Push down on the fork a few times to allow the hub to center.
Tighten the 3mm clamp fixing bolts to the specified torque value
as called out in Technical Specification Chart at the end of this
manual. (See Fig 1)
Finish the installation by tightening axle nut to specified torque
(See Fig 2)
Fig. 3
9
MRD Noble Air™ System Service
Includes complete disassembly and service of the air spring system
Tool List: 12mm wrench, 15mm wrench, 20mm socket, 1.5mm Allen, 7mm Allen, Park Green Pin Spanner (or
2. Remove the 12mm nut from the compression rod on the bottom of the left leg.
10
4. Remove the Detent balls and springs from the Detent Housing.
6. Using a 7mm Allen wrench, usnscrew the rebound assembly from the casting
7. Pull the casting off the crown steerer assembly. It is best to do this over some
type of drip pan to catch the semi-bath that is in the casting. Thoroughly clean
out the casting to get any contaminated oil and dirt out. If the fork seals need to
be serviced, please reference the casting service instructions for details. If you
are planning to service the damping system please reference those instructions.
8. Use a 15mm wrench to remove the compression rod from the bottom of the
left fork leg. There may be oil in the area between the endcap and the piston
(only a few cc/ml) so use caution when pulling the assembly from the fork leg.
Also it is normal to have a slight amount of negative pressure when removing the
assembly.
11
9. Inspect the quad seal (might be an o-ring) and piston glide ring for wear or
damage and replace if any is found. Pay special attention to the area of the quad
seal that was moving over the negative spring charge slot, as this is where you
might see possible damage. It will appear like the image as two small areas that
are approximately 1mm wide gouged out of the sealing lips of the quad ring.
10. Using a 20mm socket, remove the top cap and air spring compensator by
turning it counter-clockwise.
11. The air spring compensator is a press fit on the end of the intermediate air
piston, a sharp pull will separate the two pieces.
12. Even though the air spring compensator is not actively compressed by the
compression rod and piston, over time this material will degrade and lose its
effective spring rate from being compressed by the air pressure in the fork and
will need to be replaced periodically. The 80mm R7 will use the 60mm long air
spring compensator, all other MRD forks, R7100mm and both Minute 100 and
130mm, will use the shorter 40mm air spring compensator.
12
13. Invert the fork, lightly grease the glide ring and quad seal on the air piston
and also the o-ring on the end cap. Gently insert the piston into the left fork leg, it
will ease the installation past the threads in the inner leg if you turn the assembly
like screwing in a screw. When screwing the end cap into the leg watch to be
sure that the o-ring does not catch on the edge of the leg. Torque the end cap to
80inlbs (9.0N-m).
14. Turn the fork upright, and pour about 3-5cc of air piston oil (20w50 synthetic
motor oil) on the top of the air piston, this will be just enough to cover the dish in
the piston.
15. Attach the air spring compensator to the top cap assembly by pushing it on
to the post on the bottom of the top cap air piston. Lightly grease the o-rings on
the air piston and the top cap. Gently insert the piston into the left fork leg, it will
ease the installation past the threads in the inner leg if you turn the assembly like
screwing in a screw. Once the air piston is inside the leg you will meet some
resistance trying to insert the assembly further as it will build up some air
pressure in the system, this is normal. When screwing the endcap into the leg
watch to be sure that the o-ring does not catch on the edge of the leg. Torque
the top cap to 80inlbs.
damaged if so replace them, otherwise it is OK to reuse them.
13
Pinched
17. Slide the casting onto the stanchions being careful not to pinch the lip on the
dust seals. Once the seals are on the legs slide the legs down about 3/4 of the
way down.
Correct
Using a squeeze bottle or syringe put 16cc(16ml) of semibath (5w40 synthetic
semibath is in each leg, slide the casting down the rest of the way until the
this assembly.
wrench. Tighten the Detent Housing to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).
14
small amount of grease on top of the springs to hold the detent balls, and then
(.6-.9N-m) and be sure to use blue LocTite on the threads.
23. Install the 12mm nut that secures the compression rod in the left fork leg.If
there is not a washer located under the 12mm nut, place a thin washer onto the
exposed threaded shaft protruding through the casting before you reinstall the
nut.Tighten it in a clockwise direction to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).
use. Now, go have a great ride!
15
MRD Damping Systems Service
Includes complete disassembly and service of the Various Damping Systems used in the
Tool List: 12mm wrench, 15mm wrench, 20mm socket, 24mm socket, 1.5mm Allen, 7mm Allen, Park Green Pin
2. Remove the 12mm nut from the compression rod on the bottom of the left leg.
16
4. Remove the detent balls and springs from the Detent Housing.
6. Using a 7mm Allen wrench, unscrew the rebound assembly from the casting
7. Pull the casting off the crown steerer assembly. It is best to do this over some
type of drip pan to catch the semi-bath that is in the outer legs. Throughly clean
out the casting to get any contamiated oil and dirt out. If the fork seals need to
be serviced, please reference the casting service instructions for details. If you
are planning to service the damping system please reference those instructions.
For TPC forks proceed to the next step, for Absolute forks: proceed to step 11
and for RCT Lock-out forks: proceed to step 14
8. TPC Forks: Turn the TPC adjustment knob on top of the right side of the fork
counter-clockwise until it reaches the travel limit. Using an 1.5mm allen wrench
remove the screw in the center of the knob, turn the screw counter-clockwise to
remove. Be cautious of the detent balls and springs under the knob as they are
very small and easily lost.
17
9. Remove the detent balls and springs from the top of the assembly.
10. Using a 20mm socket remove the TPC compression assembly from the fork
leg. As you pull the piston out of the damper body be cautious not to spill the oil.
Once the TPC assembly is removed, pour the oil in the damper body out and
dispose of it properly. Stroke the rebound shaft once or twice while doing this to
ensure that all of the oil is removed. Continue to step 17 Warning: If the
cartridge tube becomes dislodged as you remove the compression damper
assembly, do not worry. The oil in that tube will drain into the inner leg and can
be poured out of that leg. The press fit or the "squeeze" of the o-ring between
the end cap and the tube may be too loose. This will require replacing the o-ring
in the end cap.
11. Absolute forks: Turn the adjuster counter-clockwise until the damper is the
fully open position. Using a 2mm allen remove the screw holding the knob on,
turn the screw counter-clockwise to remove. Be cautious of the detent balls and
springs under the knob as they are very small and easily lost.
12. Remove the detent balls and springs from the top of the assembly.
18
13. Using a 24mm socket, remove the Absolute compression assembly from the
fork leg. As you pull the piston out of the damper body be cautious not to spill the
oil. Once the Absolute assembly is removed, pour the oil in the damper body out
and dispose of it properly. Stroke the rebound shaft once or twice while doing
this to ensure that all of the oil is removed. Continue to step 17 Warning: If
the cartridge tube becomes dislodged as you remove the Compression
Damper assembly, do not worry. The oil in that tube will drain into the
inner leg and can be poured out of that leg. The press fit or the "squeeze"
of the o-ring between the end cap and the tube may be too loose. This will
require replacing the o-ring in the end cap.
14. RCT Lock- out Forks: Using a 2mm allen remove the screw holding the
cable barrel on, turn the screw counter-clockwise to remove. Be cautious of the
return spring and cover on the bottom of the knob.
15. Next remove the cable stop clamp by loosening the clamp bolt using a 2mm
Allen wrench, then just lift the clamp off of the Lock-out assembly.
16. Using a 24mm socket, remove the Lock-out compression assembly from the
fork leg. As you pull the piston out of the damper body be cautious not to spill the
oil. Once the Absolute assembly is removed, pour the oil in the damper body out
and dispose of it properly. Stroke the rebound shaft once or twice while doing
this to ensure that all of the oil is removed.
19
17. Invert the fork, Using a 15mm wrench remove the rebound end cap by
turning it counter-clockwise. This will remove the rebound assembly and the
cartridge body.
18. Separate the cartridge body from the rebound assembly by twisting the two
pieces in opposite directions while pulling them apart.
19. Inspect all o-rings, seals and piston glide rings, replace any that show signs
of wear or damage. Be sure to check the o-ring on the inside of the rebound end
cap that seals on the outside surface of the cartridge body. It is adviceable to
only replace this o-ring if it is damaged as it extremely difficult to fully seat the
replacement and install the cartridge. If you are replacing the o-ring, lube it with
semi-bath oil rather than grease as it will seat into the groove in the end cap
better.
20. Lube the oring on the inside of the end cap, the outside of the cartridge tube
and the piston glide ring on the rebound assembly, using a small amout of shock
fluid. These areas are pointed out in the photo to the right.
20
21. Slide the rebound assembly into the cartridge tube. To insert the cartridge
tube into the endcap, place the opposite end of the cartridge tube against the
edge of the workbench, place on hand on the cartridge tube and one hand on
the end cap. While leaning your weight into the assemblies, twist the end cap in
one direction and the tube in the opposite as if screwing the pieces together.
There should be a sharp snap or click as the tube slides past the o-ring and
seats into the end cap. if you don't hear the end cap seat there is a very good
chance that the cartridge tube has cut the o-ring.
22. Screw the rebound assembly and cartridge tube assembly into the bottom of
the right leg. Torque the end cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m) using a 15mm wrench. Be
care not to dislodge the cartridge tube from the end cap as it needs to remain
fully seated to seal properly.
23. Turn the fork upright. Fill the cartridge approximately 1/2 to 2/3 full of 5wt
shock oil. Be careful not to spill fluid in the area between the inner leg and the
cartridge. Place a shop towel over the top of the leg. Slowly stroke the rebound
shaft about 1/2 way through its travel, this will get air out from under the rebound
piston. Fully extend the rebound shaft.
24. For all MRD Forks: Fill the cartridge with shock fluid until the distance from
the top of the inner leg to the top surface of the oil in the cartridge is 120mm (you
are measuring the distance between the 2 arrows). It is easiest to set this level
using a syringe with a piece of tubing on the end to draw out the proper amount
of fluid. For TPC forks proceed to the next step; Absolute forks continue to step
28; RCT forks resume at Step 29
25. For TPC Forks: lightly lubricate, with shock fluid, the orings on the outside
and inside of the top cap. Carefully insert the TPC compression assembly to
make sure that the cartridge body is not knocked off center. Using a 20mm
socket, torque the top cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m).
21
26. Insert the 2 detent springs and balls into the holes on the top cap.
27. Using a 1.5mm Allen wrench screw the TPC knob on to the compression
assembly. Be careful when installing the knob so that you don't dislodge the
detent balls. Proceed to step 34 to finish the service.
28. For Absolute forks: Lube the o-rings on the inside and the outside of the
top cap with shock fluid. Also be sure to lube the o-ring on the piston. Carefully
insert the Absolute compression assembly to make sure that the cartridge body
is not knocked off center. Using a 24mm socket, torque the top cap to 80inlbs
(9.0N-m).
29. Insert the 2 detent springs and balls into two holes opposite to each other on
the top cap.
22
28. Using a 2mm Allen wrench screw the knob and Absolute detent plate on to
the compression assembly. Be careful when installing the knob so that you don't
dislodge the detent balls. Proceed to step 34 to finish the service.
29. For RCT Forks: lightly lubricate, with shock fluid, the orings on the outside
and inside of the top cap. Carefully insert the TPC compression assembly to
make sure that the cartridge body is not knocked off center. Using a 24mm
socket, torque the top cap to 80inlbs (9.0N-m).
30. Install clamp w/ cable adjuster pointing to the front of the fork.
31. Turn cable spool to close the lockout, making sure that it functions properly.
Clock the spool so the cable anchor is close but doesn’t interfere with the cable
adjuster on the clamp.
23
32. Turn spool counter clockwise about 180 degrees from the locked out
position. Remove Spool and install the return spring in the spool.
33. Install spool on lock-out in the position from the end of step 32. The return
spring goes in whichever of the holes in the top cap that it lines up best with.
Proceed to step 34 to finish the service.
damaged. If so replace them, otherwise it is OK to reuse them.
Pinched
35. Slide the casting on to the stanchions being careful not to pinch the lip on the
dust seals. Once the seals are on the legs, slide the legs about 3/4 of the way
down.
Correct
Using a squeeze bottle or syringe put 16cc (16ml) of Semi Bath (5w40 synthetic
Semi Bath is in each leg, slide the casting down the rest of the way until the
24
this assembly.
wrench. Tighten the Detent Housing to 15-20inlbs (1.7-N-m).
small amount of grease on top of the springs to hold the detent balls, and then
(.6-.9N-m)and be sure to use blue LocTite on the threads.
25
41. Install the 12mm nut that secures the compression rod in the left fork leg. If
there is not a washer located under the 12mm nut, place a thin washer onto the
exposed threaded shaft protruding through the casting before you reinstall the
nut.Tighten it in a clockwise direction to 15-20inlbs (1.7-2.3N-m).
use. Now, go have a great ride!urize the main spring back to the air pressure
that you normally run and go have a great ride!
Additional note: It is possible to change the compression damping systems (Absolute/TPC) between the
MRD Forks. There are different length cartridge tubes required for the Absolute subassembly versus the TPC
subassembly. So, in order to change from TPC to Absolute or vice versa, you also need the correct
corresponding cartridge tube.
26
Technical Data
2008 Fork Set Up Criteria
Family
Model
Damping System
R7
MRD
TPC
MRD
Absolute
MRD
TPC
Minute
Travel
Absolute
Fork
Model
08 R7 MRD
08 Minute
MRD
Seal Type
Orange
Doughnut
Thin White
Nylon
Seal Part
number
065807
067110
Oil Level
MM
80
100
80
Inches
4.7
4.7
4.7
MM
120
120
120
100
130
100
130
4.7
4.7
4.7
4.7
120
120
120
120
Rebound
Damper
End
Aluminum
Machined
Aluminum
Machined
27
Factory Build
Specs
Air
SPV/IFP
Spring
PSI
(PSI)
N/A
70
N/A
70
N/A
70
N/A
N/A
N/A
N/A
Torque on Rebound
Damper to secure in
Casting
15-25inlbs (1.69 - 2.82Nm)
15-25inlbs (1.69 - 2.82Nm)
100
100
100
100
2008 Manitou Fork Service Kit Matrix
Name
Model
R7
R7 MRD
Code
Travel (mm)
M-850
80
M-851
100
Minute
Minute MRD
RGRG850
851
100
130
Cartridge Damping Rebuild Parts
Cartridge Rebound Assy-TPC or Absolute
Cartridge Rebound Assy-CID
Cartridge TPC Assy
Cartridge Absolute Assy
A
A
A
A
Cartridge Body - TPC
A
Cartridge Body - Absolute
83-3267
83-3283
A
83-3265
83-3266
83833268
3269
83833270
3271
83-3281
83-3282
83833269
3284
83833271
3285
RCT Remote L/O Lever *
RCT Remote L/O Cable *
RCT Remote L/O Fork Clamp Spool/Spring *
A
A
A
83-3352
83-3353
83-3354
83-3352
83-3353
83-3354
Air Cap
Air Spring Compensator
C
C
Crn/Str/Leg
D
Outer Leg Assy
STD
STD
STD
STD
NB, STD DO
NB, STD DO
NB, STD DO
NB,STD DO
NB, STD DO
NB, STD DO
NB, Hex Axel
***Blk AL S/T(26") MRD
E
Merida Green
Candy Red
Grey (Primer)
Gloss Black
Gloss Black
Carbon Clear Coated
Grey Blue (Ocean Blue)
Merida Green
Candy Red
Grey (Primer)
Grey Blue (Ocean Blue)
Travel Adjust/
Comp Rod/
833276
833277
83833286
3287
83-3273
833290
833291
98-23568
83-3257
83-3256
98-23561
83-3258
98-23564
83-3292
98-23569
83-3260
83-3259
83-3332
H
H
80
100
Bushing Kit
Knob Kit
Dust Seal Kit
O-Ring Kit
83833272
3343
83-3273
130
E
I
K
K
28
833274
833275
85-5321
83-3279
83-2443
83-3280
833288
833289
85-5964
83-3279
85-5293
83-3293
Fork Torque Specifications
Position
Fitting (Internal/
External) - Size
Fork Assembly
Torque (Kg/Cm)
Min
Max
Torque (inlbs)
Min
Max
Red Loctite
(impreg. threads)
Greased
(spring grease)
Brake Post
End Cap
(Spring & Damper)
Ext. - 8mm (2 sided)
92
115
80
Ext. - 24mm Hex
92
115
80
100
CRITICAL!!!
Top Caps (Spring &
Damper / Plastic
Top Caps (Spring &
Damper / Metal
Drop out bolt
(Spring side)
Drop out fitting
(Damping side)
Ext. - 20mm Hex /
Ext. - 24mm Hex
Ext. - 20mm Hex /
Ext. - 24mm Hex
Ext. - 11mm Hex /
Ext. - 12mm Hex
52
63
45
55
NA
69
92
60
80
NA
52
63
45
55
NA
Int. - 8mm Hex
15
29
13
25
Int. - 2mm Hex
5
7
4
6
NA
Blue Loctite
(Cartridge
Dampers Only)
Int. - 4mm Hex
58
81
50
70
Blue Loctite
Int. - 4mm Hex
115
127
100
110
Blue Loctite
Int. - 4mm Hex
35
46
30
40
Blue Loctite
Int. - 4mm Hex
35
46
30
40
Blue Loctite
Greased
(spring grease)
Rebound -adjuster knob to needle
Triple Clamp
lower crown
Triple Clamp
upper crown
QRTA quick release
screws
Std. thru Axle Clamp Screws
Std. / QRTA
Thru Axle bolt
Hand Tight
Int. - 6mm Hex
Sub Assembly
Ext. (?)mm (2 sided)
Air valve core
Rebound Assy.
Piston Nut
Ex. - 13mm Hex
LO, Rem LO:
Ext. - 24mm Hex to
Top Cap to Shaft
Ext. 10mm (2 sided)
LO:
Int. 6mm Hex to
Piston to Shaft
Ext. 10mm (2 sided)
Rem LO: Piston seat to Shaft
bottom
Custom fittings
Rem LO: Plungertop to -bottom
Custom fittings
Rem LO: Shaft upper to -lower
Custom fittings
Rem LO: End plug
to Piston seat
Custom fittings
100
Solution applied
3
6
3
5
NA
14
17
12
15
Green Loctite
52
63
45
55
Red Loctite
46
58
40
50
Red Loctite
46
58
40
50
Red Loctite
6
12
5
10
Red Loctite
52
63
45
55
Red Loctite
6
12
5
10
Blue Loctite
29
Trouble Shooting Tips
Symptom
Air Loss
Cause
Schrader Valve
leaks
Solution
Tighten Valve core, replace bad parts
as needed.
Make sure O-ring is seated properly,
Air Cap O-ring leaks replace parts as needed.
13 - Sect.14
Air Top Cap leaks
Check O-ring, tighten cap to proper
Torque, and replace parts as needed.
13 – Sect.15
Remove Casting from Inner Legs,
reinstall or replace seals
5 – Sect.8
Replace Crown/Steerer/Inner Leg
Assembly
Too much Semi Bath Follow instructions for removal and
oil
installation of Outer Casting
Remove Casting from Inner Legs,
Wear
reinstall or replace seals
Oil leaks from bottom Rebound damper
of Casting
shaft leaks
Replace Rebound Damping assembly
Rebound damper
shaft O-ring
Replace O-ring on threaded end of
damaged
Rebound Damping assembly
Compression Rod
Check O-ring on bolt to see if it is
Bolt leaks
damaged and then reinstall
Fork Bottom out
Play in Fork
13 – Sect.15
Check oil volume on top of piston,
replace parts as needed.
Nicks or scratches
on inner legs
Fork Top out
13 – Sect.16
Air Piston leaks
Oil leaks from Wiper Seal not seated
Seals
properly
Lack of Travel
See Page #
Tight Bushings
Hydraulic lock out
4 – Sect.9
4 – Sect.9
20 – Sect.17
24 – Sect.34
26 – Sect.41
Refer to
2008 Fork
Service
Resize bushings or replace with new
Manual
ones if damaged
Replace Rebound Damping assembly See above
Follow instructions for removal and
Semi Bath oil volume installation of Outer Casting
Check oil level, Replace Rebound
Damper oil volume Damping assembly if needed
Visually inspect fork, call HBG Tech
Fork alignment
Support Customer Service
Loss of Rebound
Damping
Replace Rebound Damping assembly
Top out spring
Inspect and replace Top out spring if
damaged
needed.
Damping oil volume Check oil level, Replace Rebound
not correct
Damping assembly if needed
See Above
See Above
See Above
11 – Sect.15
See Above
Table 3
Refer to SAG Set up in Tuning section
Pg.27
of Owners Manual
Too much SAG
Bottom out Bumper Inspect and replace Bottom out Bumper
11
damaged
if needed
Damping oil volume Check oil level, Replace Rebound
not correct
Resize bushings or replace with new
Loose bushings
ones if damaged
Loose Compression
Rod bolt
Tighten bolt to specified torque
Loose Rebound
damping shaft
Tighten Shaft to specified torque
Loose press fit
tolerances
Call HBG Tech Support Customer
Service
30
– Sect.15
See above
See Above
Trouble Shooting Tips (cont.)
Absolute Damping
Problems
Loss of function
Check oil level, Replace Absolute
21 – Sect.24
Noisy when
increasing platform
Check oil Level, contact HBG Tech
Support
21 – Sect.24
RCT Lockout ProblemsVarious
See Remote Lockout Section
31
19 - 24
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62

MRD Service Guide

Transcription

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