Higher Education in Armenia
Transcription
Higher Education in Armenia
ARMENIA A COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE A guidebook Ye r e v a n 199 9 1 Authors: Konstantin Khudaverdyan Yeghishe Sargsyan Translation by Artashes Emin Armenia, A country and the people, A guidebook. Yerevan, V. Movsessian, 1999 p. 204. Publisher: © Vera Movsessian, 1999 AraM © ENCYCLOPAEDIA-ARMENICA Ltd 17 Toumanian Street, Yerevan 2 INDEX To the guests of Armenia ................................................................ 6 General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The flag of the Republic of Armenia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The coat of arms of the Republic of Armenia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The national anthem of the Republic of Armenia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 8 9 9 Natural environment .................................................................... Armenians and the Armenian language ........................................ 11 14 From the depth of centuries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 The Armenian Apostolic Church ................................................... 59 The Republic of Armenia today . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 State organization . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 The Constitution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 The President . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 The National Assembly (Parliament) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 The cabinet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 The Constitutional Court . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Administrative division. Territorial governance and local self-administration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 The provinces of Armenia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 The communities of the city of Yerevan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 The judiciary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 State holidays and remembrance days . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Armenia on the international scene . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Membership to international organizations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Diplomatic missions of foreign states . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Representations of international organizations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Embassies of the Republic of Armenia abroad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Permanent missions to international organizations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 The economy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Industry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Agriculture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 The social sector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 3 INDEX Education . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Science . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Culture and sport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Literature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Fine arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Theatre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Cinematography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Sports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 The capital city of the Republic of Armenia Yerevan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Some background . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Monuments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Historical and architectural monuments of Armenia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Armavir province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Ararat province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Kotayk province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Aragatsotn province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Shirak province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 Lori province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Tavoush province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Gegharkounik province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Vayots Dzor province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Sunik province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Armenians in the contemporary world . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Miscellaneous data and useful tidbits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 The rights and obligations of foreign nationals in the Republic of Armenia, the procedure for entry and exit, residence permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Business information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Transport and communications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Air connections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Distances from Yerevan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 Time zone chart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 4 INDEX Railways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Highways . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Highway mileage to Yerevan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Yerevan City transport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Transport terminals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Underground stations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Telecommunications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Domestic area codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 Country codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Long distance phone tariffs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Mail tariffs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Domestic mail codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Tourism, hotels, resorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Yerevan hotels: a directory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Armenian resorts and spas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 The climate. Clothing. Traditional costumes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 The Armenian alphabet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Survival lexicon in the Armenian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 Spelling of Armenian numerals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 On Armenian cuisine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Traditional bread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Description of traditional meals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Armenian fish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Armenian wines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Armenian cognacs (brandies) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Gastronomic glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Miscellaneous reference . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Public offices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Creative associations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Libraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Yerevan churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Sports facilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Farmers markets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Emergency numbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 City information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 5 TO THE GUESTS OF ARMENIA We take the liberty to surmise that a foreigner, upon deciding to visit Armenia, already possesses certain information on the country, its nature, attractions, its people. This is the very information that, even though it may be fragmented and superficial, motivates an outlander to undertake a trip to Armenia to come to know this ancient land, its culture, its past and its present better. We want to assist our potential guests by offering them a brief necessary background on Armenia and the Armenians. This The Ararat valley GUIDE compiles what we think is essential: a history of the Armenian people in a nutshell, the state organization, the economy, science and culture of present-day Armenia, its attractions as well as some useful advice for the visitors to our country. 6 G E N E R A L I N F O R M AT I O N Republic of Armenia Hayastany Hanrapetoutyun Armenia Hayastan Independence day: September 21, 1991 (the day of the referendum) Constitution: adopted through a referendum on July 5, 1995 Flag: tricolor, horizontal stripes of (from top to bottom) red, blue and orange Coat of arms: the restored coat of arms of the First Republic (19181920) National Anthem: Mer Hayrenik Our Fatherland System of governance: presidential Capital city: Yerevan Administrative division: Eleven provinces (including the capital city of Yerevan that possesses a status of a province) Currency unit: dram, introduced in 1993, one dram = 100 lumas Geographic coordinates: on the South: 38o 50' Northern latitude; on the North: 41o 20' Northern latitude; on the West: 43o 30' Eastern Longitude; on the East: 46o 00' Eastern Longitude Neighbouring countries: on the North: Georgia; on the East: Azerbaijan; on the South: Iran; on the SouthWest: Nakhijevan (Azerbaijan); on the West: Turkey Territory: 29,74 thousand square kilometers Average altitude above sea level: 1,800 meters Highest mountain peak: Aragats (4,090 meters) Lowest altitude: 380 meters in the Debed canyon Biggest natural freshwater reservoir: lake Sevan (1,897 meters above sea level, 81 meters at its deepest) Land: cultivable 3.2%, pastures 29.8%, forests 12%, drylands 17.8%, alpine 37.2% Climate: dry continental Population: 3,766.4 thousand (as of 1996) Average population density: 125 per square kilometer 7 ARMENIA Population breakdown (as of 1995): urban 67.5%, rural 32.5%, female 51.5%, male 48.5%, 16 years of age and under 32.5%, between 17 and 59 years of age 56.2%, 60 and over years of age 11.3% Ethnic breakdown: Armenians 96%, minorities: Russians, Ezidis, Kurds, Assyrians, Greeks, Ukrainians, Jews and others Language: Armenian Religion: Christian Church: Armenian Apostolic Religious centre: St. Ejmiatsin, the Cathedral of the Armenian Apostolic Church and the residence of the Catholicos (Patriarch) of all Armenians Cities: (thousands of people as of 1996) Yerevan 1,249.4 Gyumri 211.1 Vanadzor 172.6 Vagharshapat 64.7 Hrazdan 63.8 Abovyan 61.6 Kapan 46.7 Armavir Charentsavan Gavar Artashat Dilijan Ashtarak Goris 46.4 36.3 34.1 34.0 30.9 28.8 28.8 Sevan Alaverdi Stepanavan Artik Ararat Spitak Jermuk 28.7 25.3 24.9 23.7 21.9 21.4 10.3 THE FLAG OF THE REPUBLIC OF ARMENIA The law On the state flag of the Republic of Armenia was adopted on August 24, 1990, by the Supreme Council of the Republic of Armenia. The state flag is a rectangular panel with three equal horizontal stripes of red, blue and orange colours (from top to bottom). The proportion of width to length is 1:2. The state flag is identical in size and colours to the state flag of the First Armenian republic (19181920). The colour red symbolises the blood shed by the Armenian people in its struggle for independence, the colour blue symbolises the clear 8 G E N E R A L I N F O R M AT I O N sky of Armenia and the colour orange symbolyses the creative drive of the nation. THE COAT OF ARMS OF THE REPUBLIC OF ARMENIA The law On the state coat of arms of the Republic of Armenia was adopted on April 19, 1992, by the Supreme Council of the Republic of Armenia. It is a rendition of the coat of arms of the First Armenian republic (19181920) that had been authored by the architect, member of the Russian Academy of Fine Arts Alexander Tamanian and artist Hakob Kojoyan. Description of the coat of arms: the central shield of the coat of arms bears the charges of four royal Armenian dynasties: the Artaxids, the Arshakids, the Bagratunis and the Rubinyans (the Cilician kingdom). These surround the depiction of mount Ararat with the outline of Noahs ark resting on the peak. The silver waves of lake Van are at the foot of the mountain. The shield is supported by a lion and an eagle that symbolise the spirit, the power, forbearance and valour. A sword at the bottom represents the struggle of the Armenian people for Freedom and Independence, while the quill and cereal spikes symbolyse its creative talent and peaceful character. THE ANTHEM OF THE REPUBLIC OF ARMENIA Mer Hayrenik/Our Fatherland The first and the last quatrains of the Anthem in the Armenian language: The Armenian text in Roman transliteration: 1. Ø»ñ гÛñ»ÝÇù, ³½³ï, ³ÝϳË, àñ ³åñ»É ¿ ¹³ñ»¹³ñ, Æñ áñ¹ÇùÁ ³ñ¹ ϳÝãáõÙ ¿ ²½³ï, ³ÝÏ³Ë Ð³Û³ëï³Ý: 1. Mer Hayrenik, azat, ankah, Vor aprel eh daredar, Ihr vordikeh ard kanchoom eh Azat, ankah Hayastan. 9 ARMENIA 4. ²Ù»Ý³ÛÝ ï»Õ Ù³ÑÁ ÙÇ ¿, سñ¹ ÙÇ ³Ý·³Ù åÇï Ù»éÝ», ´³Ûó »ñ³ÝÇ, áñ Ûáõñ ³½·Ç ²½³ïáõÃÛ³Ý ÏÁ½áÑíÇ: 4. Amenayn teg maheh me eh, Mard me angam pit merneh, Bayts yerani, vor your azgi Azatootyan kezohvi. Literal translation: 1. Our Fatherland, free, independent, That has lived for centuries, Is now summoning its sons To the free, independent Armenia. 4. Death is the same everywhere, A man dies but once, Blessed is the one hat dies For the freedom of his nation. The background of the Anthem: By the end of the 19th, beginning of the 20th centuries the song Our Fatherland inspired thousands of patriots and was sung by them during heroic battles of the Armenian people for freedom and independence. In 1918, during the days of establishment of the First Republic, Our Fatherland became the National Anthem of the Republic of Armenia. The author of the lyrics is poet Mikael Nalbandian (18291866). Pursuant to the resolution of the Supreme Council of the Republic of Armenia of July 1, 1991, the anthem of the Republic of Armenia of 19181920 is adopted as the basis for the national anthem. The text of the anthem has been subjected to changes. The score of the anthem: 10 N AT U R A L E N V I R O N M E N T Kharberd, Yerznka, Alashkert and Shirak valleys, that had played a prominent economic role in the life of the Armenian people. The Ararat valley is the The Armenian people have lived on the Armenian plateau, a vast territory of more than 300 thousand square kilometers, stretching over the central and Northern parts of Asia Minor. The Armenian plateau is bound on the North by the Lesser Caucasus range and on the South by the Armenian Taurus range, while on the West it descends into the Euphrates valley and on the East into the Caspian lowland. Almost in the centre is a huge volcanic massif with twin peaks: the Greater Ararat (altitude: 5156 m above sea level, the Armenians also call it Massis) and the Lesser Ararat (altitude: 3914 m above sea level, the Armenians also call it Sis). The Armenian Range stretches West of the Ararat massif, breaking down into individual mountains. The mountainous system of the Lesser Caucasus contains a number of peaks, among which Aragats (altitude: 4095 m) is the highest on the territory of the Republic of Armenia. There are a number of plains and fertile valleys within the Armenian plateau. The best known among these are the Ararat, Moush, Aragats mountain biggest and the most fertile among these, it has become the centre of economic, political and cultural life of Armenians. Several of the capital cities of ancient Armenia: Armavir, Yervandashat, Vagharshapat and Dvin were in the Ararat valley. This is where the capital of the current Republic of Armenia, the City of Yerevan is, as well as St. Ejmiatsin, the centre of the Armenian Apostolic Church. The Armenian plateau is rich with rivers. Here lie the origins of rivers Euphrates and Tigris with their tributaries, flowing into the Persian gulf, as well as of Kura and Arax, flowing into the 11 ARMENIA in the world (covering approximately 1,400 sq k). Up to two dozen small rivers flow into the lake, while only one flows out of it, river Hrazdan. The water is fresh, the fish are the i s h k h a n (local trout) and whitefish. The natural environment and the climate of the Armenian plateau were favourable from times immemorial for the settlement of people: first they hunted, then proceeded to cultivate the land, herd cattle and engage in crafts. The population of the plateau from early on grew wheat, grapes, sesame and fruits: apricots, peaches, apples and others. The Caspian Sea. The longest river in the Republic of Armenia is Arax, its tributaries are Akhourian, Hrazdan, Kassakh, Azat and others. The biggest lakes of the plateau are Van, Urmia and Sevan. Lake Van (currently within the territory of Turkey) was called Tosp in the ancient times or, alternatively, the sea of Bznuni. Its surface stretches over 3,733 sq k. and the water is salty. From times immemorial they made salt and fished the famous t a r e k h here, a fish indigenous to lake Van. The ancient name of lake Urmia (currently within the territory of Iran) was Kaputan. Its mirror is 5,800 Lake Sevan Armenian plateau is the home of some of these species. The Armenian plateau is rich with minerals. Armenian and sq k, fish do not breed in its salty water. Lake Sevan, called the Geghama sea in the olden times, is one of the largest alpine lakes 12 G E N E R A L I N F O R M AT I O N foreign sources hold that copper ore, lead, silver and gold were mined here a long time ago. There also were salt mines. The The fauna of the plateau was especially rich in the ancient times. Until now the noble deer, the mountain goat, the roe deer, the Armenian moufflon, the boar breed here. The predators include the wolf, the bear, the fox, the birds include the eagle, the kite, the falcon, the stork, the pheasant, the partridge and others. The scholars have discovered sites of primitive men on the Armenian plateau as well as evidence of their productive activity, which allows to rightfully rank this region with the most ancient cradles of human civilization. A Zangezour landscape population used a diversity of building materials: basalt, multicoloured tuff, marble, limestone. 13 ARMENIANS AND THE ARMENIAN LANGUAGE this long and mingled process was reserved to tribes speaking a language of the Indo-European family. Local tribes of other language families (Hurrites, Urartians and others) have also contributed to the formation of the Armenian people. The scholars single out H a y a s a , a tribal association that populated the Armenian plateau and, they maintain, has lent its name to the way Armenians call themselves: H a y (ѳÛ). The Armenian plateau is the cradle of Armenians. This circumstance, i.e. the geopolitical situation of the Armenian people, has left an imprint on its entire history. Living on the junction of two worlds, the Asian and the European, the Armenians were exposed from early on to the cultures of the East and the West, and the Armenian culture itself incorporated many elements of these civilizations. The territory of the Armenian plateau, by virtue of its geographic location, has been subjected to the rampage of conquerors moving from West to East but even more often from East to West. This fact has mostly predetermined the patterns and The process of the formation of the Armenian people took place in the depth of ages, between the 2nd and 1st millennia B.C. Which explains why it is of- Monument in Yerevan to the forefather of Armenians Haik ten impossible to reliably and comprehensively shed light over many a circumstance in the making up of the Armenian people. Modern science maintains that the process of the formation of the Armenian people has incontestably taken place on the Armenian plateau, involving several tribes and associations of tribes that have gradually converged into a single nation. The leading role in 14 A R M E N I A N S A N D T H E A R M E N I A N LA N G UA G E peculiarities of the historical development of Armenians. The geopolitical factor has not lost its significance in our days either. Armenians have long been known to adapt rapidly to the shifting conditions of life, they are hard working, experienced and lucky in trade matters. Such an appraisal of the Armenians has contributed to the fact that in many countries where Armenians have resettled in view of social hardships in the motherland, they have been granted various privileges up to the right to selfgovernance. Armenians, especially the ones living in alien lands, are characterized by a leadership drive. It comes as no accident that in a wide range of countries with Armenian communities the Armenians have attained top positions not only in the economy or trade, but also on the social and political scenes. For example in the Byzantium of the 9th 11th centuries the ruling dynasty was the Macedonian or Armenian whose crowned representatives were of Armenian descent. Throughout different centuries Armenians have held highest civil and military posts in Georgia, Russia, Bulgaria, Hungary, Rumania, Egypt and other countries. There are Armenians currently known to play a visible role in the economy, politics and culture of countries like France, the U.S.A., Syria, Lebanon etc. Possessing centuries of experience of living in alien environments the Armenians are not xenophobic, although they do have their own Many factors have affected the formation of Armenian mentality. These may include the tribulations of Armenian history, the exposure of the Armenian people to the proponents of Western and Eastern civilizations, early accession to Christian ethics. And although the Armenians are quite susceptible to cultural penetration, they somehow succeeded in preserving their ingenuity, traditions of social behaviour and family lifestyles many of which date back millennia. The Armenian family is traditionally strong, even now divorces are a rare occurrence. The patriarchal flavour of the Armenian family is in that more often than not it comprises three generations living under a single roof. Respect towards the elders, love and constant care for the children are all characteristic features. Armenian families with many children were a common occurrence in the past, now it is predominantly a rural phenomenon while urban families, as a rule, have one or two children. Armenians are hospitable, convivial people that know how to drink. It is quite a challenge to encounter a drunk Armenian out in the street, an intoxicated Armenian prefers to stay home. 15 ARMENIA assessment of the ways and features of national characters of their close and distant neighbours. Incidentally, Armenians are at their most ironic when it comes to themselves. The natives of Van, for example, enjoy the popular perception of being closefisted, the Gyumri people are the witty ones while the natives of Lori are the simple-minded etc. This typology, often groundless, usually sticks for good, gets down from one generation to another and finds its reflection in folklore and literature. It is believed that Armenians find it difficult to abide by common rules and aspire to do it their way even in situations that are not asking for it. This is not a totally unwarranted statement, suffice it to observe for a while the behaviour of motorists and pedestrians in the streets of Armenian cities to get reassured: both the former and the latter are not happy with traffic rules. Monument to the Armenian script in Oshakan menians adds up to over 25 thousand manuscripts currently preserved in the Yerevan Matenadaran the Institute of Ancient Manuscripts named after the inventor of the Armenian script, as well as in the depositories and libraries of Jerusalem, Vienna, Venice, London and other locations. The Armenian language is of the Indo-European family, representing a stand alone ramification of the family with one of the oldest scripts. The Armenian script was created at the beginning of the 5th century by St Mesrob Mashtots, it has since become the solid foundation for the national language and culture. The written legacy of Ar- Armenian medieval manuscript 16 FROM THE DEPTH OF CENTURIES A brief survey of the history and culture of Armenia Ancient Armenian states Alexander the Great emerged as a result. But even before that Armenia broke into two parts: The Greater Armenia (comprising most of the Armenian Plateau) and Lesser Armenia (the territory of Upper Euphrates). Lesser Armenia became a part of Alexanders Empire, while Greater Armenia restored its independence and descendants of the Yervandouni continued to reign there. Following the collapse of the empire of Alexander the Great Armenia was included in the state of the Seleucids, one of the Hellenistic countries that emerged over the ruins of Alexanders Empire. Hellenism had a great impact on the socio-economic and cultural life of the Armenian society. Through this time the highly developed ancient Greek civilization came into contact with the local cultures of Asia Minor, including Armenians. As a result of this Armenian culture of the period combines elements of Western as well as Eastern civilizations.The political structures of the Armenian society were also affected by The history of Armenian statehood adds up to over three millennia, dating back to the history of Urartu (the Araratian kingdom), a powerful state, a peer and rival of Assyria. A multitude of monuments of the Urartian period has survived on the territory of the Armenian plateau, their study by archaeologists allowed to arrive at a perception of the history, state organization and the culture of this once powerful state. Following the decline of Urartu by the end of the 7th century B.C. the ancient Armenian kingdom emerged on its ruins, ruled by the kings of the Yervandouni (Orontid) dynasty. Shortly thereafter the Armenian kingdom fell under the domination of the Persian state of Achaemenids. By the end of the 4th century B.C. the situation in Asia Minor had changed radically: the troops of Alexander the Great have invaded from the West and crushed the Achaemenid kingdom, they conquered Asias Minor and Central, as well as India. The colossal empire of 17 ARMENIA Hellenistic influence. In the beginning of the 2nd century B.C. a united Armenian kingdom came into being. The king of Greater Armenia Artashes I (189160 B.C.), the founder of the Artaxid Armenia between Rome and Parthia The confrontation that emerged between Rome and Parthia (ancient Iran) created a new political situation for Armenia that persisted for many centuries to come: Armenia had to take care first and foremost of the preservation of its independence and territorial integrity, making a choice between conflicting powers. The territory of Armenia often became an arena of military confrontation. The Artaxid dynasty phased out in the 1st century B.C. The crisis of the ancient Armenia state was overcome in the middle of the 1st century A.C. when, on the background of an ArmenoParthian treaty the throne of Armenia was taken by Tiridates, the brother of the Parthian king Vagharsh I from the dynasty of Arshakuni (Arsacids). Tiridates I became the founder of the new dynasty of Arsacids in Armenia. Important events took place while the dynasty was in power: the country embarked on the period of development of feudal relations, it adopted Christianity and the Armenian script was created. The period of relative stability A coin minted by Tigran the Great dynasty, converged into a united state most of the Armenian-populated lands of the Armenian plateau. The state of the Artaxids reached the peak of its might during the reign of Tigranes II the Great (9555 B.C.). Armenia substantially expanded its boundaries, exceeding the patterns of its ethnic settlements. For some time it succeeded in withstanding the agression of Rome towards the East. Nevertheless Rome finally took over and forced a peace treaty over Armenian, pursuant to which it had to give up all of its acquisitions. 18 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S both the dwellers of the Armenian plateau and those ancient societies and countries with which the Armenians had long maintained contact. At the earliest stages of its development ancient Armenian culture was singled out by its perceptiveness towards the cultural accomplishments of other peoples. This feature of ancient Armenian culture became most salient during the Hellenistic period. Being a culture of a higher order, Hellenism nevertheless did not level out local Armenian culture, while leaving a deep impact on the latter. In material culture the Hellenistic influence is most apparent in was soon to be over. In 387 Armenia was divided between Rome and Iran. The situation that emerged carried on through centuries to come: a division of Armenia into Western and Eastern sections. The borer between the two was constantly shifting depending on which of the dividing powers took over in their ever continuing confrontation. Culture of ancient Armenia The formation of ancient Armenian culture enjoyed the input of The fortress and temple of Garni 19 ARMENIA urban planning and architecture. Ancient authors have left us descriptions of magnificent Armenian captals of the Hellenistic period: theon was headed by H a y k, who was considered to be the forefather of Armenians. Other gods that were worshipped included A r a (there is a beautiful legend about Ara the Handsome and the Assyrian Queen Semiramis) and To r k (the legend holds that he was a giant prone to kindly deeds). Later under Hellenistic influence the Armenian heathen gods assume certain new functions. A r a m a z d takes over as the principal god, A n a h i t becomes the patron of the country, Va h a g n becomes the god of war, T i r that of wisdom and script, while A s t r i k is the goddess of love and so on. There were numerous temples to pay tribute to these gods, their deeds were reflected in myths and tales. Ancient sources have preserved information about the theatre arts in Armenia. It is known that Tigranes II had built in his capital city of Tigranocert a theatre where Greek actors used to perform. His successor king Artavazd II offered his royal palace in Artashat for theatrical performances. Greek pieces as well as tragedies written by Artavazd himself were performed there. King Artavazd II is rightfully considered to be the first Armenian playwright, which entitled him to be cast in stone in a bas-relief of the pediment of the building of the Armenian Academic Drama Company in Yerevan. The sculpted head of Anahit, goddess of maternity and fertility Artashat and Tigranocert. The archaeological excavations in Artashat undertaken in our times have attested to this depictions. The best known monument of the Hellenistic period in Armenia is the heathen temple in Garni, built in the 1st century. It comes to prove the high mastery of local architects and builders. No less interesting is the fortress of Garni that allows to form a perception about the fortifications in ancient Armenia. The heathen religion was an important component of ancient Armenian culture, it underwent certain changes prior to the spread of Christianity. The Armenian heathen pan- 20 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S ity may be successfully used in the interests of central authorities and the treatment of Christianity changed radically. The traditional date for the adoption of Christianity in Armenia is 301 A.D. Moreover, Tiridates banned the heathen faith and proclaimed Christianity to be the sole official religion of his kingdom. Armenia thus became one of the first countries where Christianity was acknowledged as a state religion. The church that was established through the preachers and endorsed through the martyrdom of the Apostles became known as the Holy Armenian Apostolic Church. The first Patriarch (Catholicos) of the Armenian church was Gregory of Partev, whom the church holds to be the second (following the Apostles) illuminator of the Armenians, later Gregory the Illuminator was canonized by the Armenian church. Even prior to the Hellenistic theatre ritual pageants, popular games and festivities held at city squares were commonplace in Armenia. The culture of ancient Armenia became the foundation upon which the formidable building of Armenian national culture was erected in subsequent historical periods. Conversion of the Armenian people into Christianity A pivotal event in the history of the Armenian people, the adoption of Christianity, took place during the reign of the Arsacids. The first Christian communities had emerged in Armenia back in the 1st century, Christianity had come to Armenian from the South from Syria and from the West from Lesser Armenia and Cappadocia. The church tradition ties the spread of Christianity in Armenia with the efforts of the apostles Thaddaeus and Bartholomew that have brought the light of the Bible into Armenia (the land of Ararat, as in the Scriptures). Initially king Tiridates III the Great (298330 A.D.) severely persecuted the first Christians. Soon thereafter the ruling class of Armenia, as in other countries, realized that the ideas of Christian- The adoption of Christianity left a powerful impact on the subsequent history of the Armenian people. The Christian faith provided an impetus for the further development of enlightenment and culture. Christian ethics became the basis for the Armenian outlook, left an immutable 21 ARMENIA former tolerance towards the Christian faith of the Armenians was replaced by an urge to convert them to M a z d e i s m, a branch of Z o r o a s t r i a n i s m professed in Iran. This claim was jeopardizing the preservation of the specialness of Armenians. In the Spring of 450 the Persian authorities attempted to force Armenians to convert. A popular uprising was the response. Armenians nakharars lacked unity, though: the proponents of drastic action converged around sparapet Vardan Mamikonian, while m a r z p a n (Persian-appointed ruler of the country) Vassak Suny assumed a stalling position and subsequently went over to the Persians along with his supporters. imprint on the spiritual makeup and the psyche of the nation. Along with that the Armenian church came to play a salient role in the life of the Armenian society, especially after the loss of statehood. The statutes of the Armenian church regulated many aspects of the lives of Armenians, the church had assumed some of the functions of the state, it was a solid support in the centuries-long struggle of the Armenian people to preserve its ingenuity. Eastern Armenia in the 5th century. Struggle against Persian domination Eastern Armenia, having lost its sovereignty, became a part of the Sassanid Iran, but it preserved certain institutes of selfgovernance as well as the social status of landowners, the n a k h a r a r s. Eastern Armenia had its own army under the command of the s p a r a p e t. Initially the Persian authorities were quite tolerant towards the Armenian church as well. Nevertheless towards the middle of the 5th century the situation changed. Iran increased the taxes on the population of Eastern Armenia and began the practice of appointing Persians to leading posts in the country. The On May 26, 451, the decisive battle was waged on the Avarayr plain Southeast of the Ararat mountain. Before the battle Vardan Mamikonian addressed his warriors with the following words that later became the motto of many generations of Armenian freedom fighters: Unconscious death is death indeed, apprehended death is immortality. Both parties fought fiercely and incurred great losses. Vardan Mamikonian and many of his comrades-in-arms fell in action. 22 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S Central part of Grigor Khanjians painting Vardanank (The Battle of Avarayr) According to an eye-witness historian Yeghishe there were neither winners, nor losers in this battle. The resistance of the Armenians carried on through the end of 451, but the uprising was suppressed. Nevertheless the rugged struggle of Armenians made the Persians settle for concessions, ease the tax burden and, what was most important, let go of the intention to convert Armenians into Zoroastrian faith. The battle of Avarayr wend down in the history of the Armenian people as one of the heroic pages of national liberation struggle. 23 ARMENIA In 482 a new uprising against the Persians caught on. It was headed by sparapet Vahan Mamikonian, the cousin of Vardan. The struggle went on with intermittent success, but in 484 the rebels succeeded in negotiating advantageous terms of armistice, which was concuded in the settlement of Nvarsak. These terms essentially meant the restoration of self-governance of Armenia. their rule there. Armenian historians of the time recount the grave situation of the Armenian people under the rule of the Arab caliphate: the onerous tax burden, the religious persecution. The ever-increasing suppression caused the wrath of the people and revolts against the Arab yoke. The first tremors took place in 703, they were followed by the uprisings of 74750 and 77175. The liberation struggle was led by the nakharars, the most influential among whom were the Mamikonians and the Bagratunis. The rivalry between these two clans outgrew into enmity, but the Bagratunis finally took over. The most negative consequence of Arab rule was the changes they brough into the ethnic composition of the country. The Arabs settled down on substantial parts of the Armenian territory, displacing the local population. Under the Arabs began the exodus of Armenians from their historical homeland and it remained a characteristic feature of subsequent history of the Armenian people. Failing to withstand the heavy social toll, Armenians left for the neighbouring Armenia under the rule of Arab caliphates The 7th century was marked by new changes in the political situation of Asia Minor as a result of Arab conquests. The Arabs created a powerful state, the Caliphate, cemented by uniform religion, the Islam, and in the 30s and 40s of the 7th century they struck a few blows on Iran, conquered its central and Western regions, took over Mesopotamia, Syria, Palestine and Egypt. The Arabs came into contact with the Byzantine empire and won several victories over their troops but stopped short of toppling the empire. In 610 the Arabs entered Eastern Armenia for the first time and shortly thereafter established 24 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S Christian countries, Georgia and Byzantium. It was to Byzantium in particular that a significant number of nakharars moved along with their courts. As a result the number of nakharar clans in Armenia fell drastically. and it came to the benefit of the Byzantine empire that conducted a consistent policy of absorption of Armenian lands. Having existed for just 160 years, the state of the Bagratids left a visible trace in the history of the Armenian people. This period is set aside by a significant increase in production, development of trade and urban lifestyles, serious accomplishments in the spiritual domain. On the background of a knotty international situation Armenia succeeded in avoiding major calamities and the prevailing peace contributed to creative output. In 1045 the capital city of Ani was taken by the Byzantians and the last Bagratuni king Gagik II was dethroned and escorted to Byzantium. After the fall of the state of the Bagratids the Armenian statehood on the territory of historical Armenia was restored only nine centuries later at the beginning of the 20th century. The state of the Bagratids The struggle of the Armenian people against the Arabs succeeded at the end of the 9th century. The Arab caliphate was at a decline and the nakharar clan of the Bagratunis (Bagratids) managed to strengthen its position and shortly proclaimed the independence of Greater Armenia. A representative of the clan Ashot I became the first king of the new dynasty (886). Although the Armenian state was restored under the former name Greater Armenia, the Bagratids still failed to bring together under their aegis all of the Armenian lands. Apart from Greater Armenia, the capital of which became the city of Ani on Akhourian river, there were several other stand alone Armenian kingdoms and principalities. Such divergence was characteristic of the feudal society at a certain stage of its development Armenia between the 1217th centuries The next several centuries added up to one of the most dire periods in the history of Armenian people. From the second half of the 12th century Armenia 25 ARMENIA to power in Iran. Conflict loomed between the two troublesome neighbours of Armenia. Wars broke out between them that carried on with intermittent success and intervals. These gravely affected the situation of Armenia that usually was the battlefield. In 1638 Turkey and Iran finally concluded a peace treaty that once again redrew the border between them. Western Armenia was ceded to Turkey, while Eastern Armenia went to the Iranians. This status quo was basically unchanged until the beginning of the 19th century. succumbed to devastating raids of successive foreign conquerors: the Seljuk tribes, the Mongols, the hordes of Tamerlane. All these conquerors were at a lower stage of socio-economic and cultural development compared to Armenia, for which reason Armenia suffered serious setbacks and degradation. Production began to falter, the once flourishing cities were abandoned, the development of national culture was stalled. The Armenian people spared no efforts to withstand the blows of fate, to survive and to carry on. In the second half of the 15th century and the beginning of the 16th the situation in Asia Minor changed drastically. The state of Ottoman Turks that had emerged in the middle of the 14th century came up with a succession of devastating blows on Byzantium. In 1453 the Ottoman Turks conquered Constantinople and the Byzantine empire ceased to exist. The Ottoman empire took over its lands, expanded over the territory of Asia Minor, the Balkan Peninsula and became one of the powerful players of the time. From the beginning of the 16th century the Safavid dynasty came The Cilician Armenian kingdom The Cilician Armenian state came into being in the 11th century and lasted for three hundred years, a formidable phenomenon not only in the history of the Armenian people but also in world history. The world history records no other precedent of a nation succeeding in building a nation-state away from its homeland. Cilicia was a country on the Northeastern shore of the Mediterranean, it was bound on the inland by several mountain ranges that 26 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S tablished relations with the Mongols that were knocking at the doors of Cilicia, they concluded a treaty with the latter and thus protected the country from the invasion of Mongol hordes. At the end of the 13th, beginning of the 14th centuries the Cilician Armenian kingdom entered a period of political crisis. The Egyptian Sultanate had gained in power by then and was harassing Byzantium as well as the Cilician state. The culmination came during the reign of the last royal dynasty, the Lucignans (natives of the island of Cyprus). In 1375 the Cilician Armenian kingdom ceased to exist. prevented easy access to Cilicia by land. It is most probable that Armenians had lived in Cilicia from times immemorial, but they only became dominant in the population later, when several waves of immigration from the territory of historical Armenia contributed to a significant increase of the Armenian population on Cilicia. The migrants included representative of nakharar clans who initiated the establishment of Armenian statehood on the new land. The founder of the Cilician Armenian state was Prince Rouben, hence the principality he created in 1080 was called the Roubenian (Roubenid) principality. During his reign and the reign of his successors the newly created principality withstood the onslaught of Byzantium that strived to put an end to a foreign state unit on its territory. The Cilician Armenian state reached its prime in by the end of the 12th, beginning of the 13th centuries under Levon II, who was proclaimed king and recognized not only by a number of European courts, but by Byzantium itself. The rise of the Cilician kingdom continued through the first decades of the rule of the next dynasty, the Hetoumian (Hetoumids). The Hetoumids es- Armenian migratory settlements In view of the expansion of Armenian migration in the Middle Ages Armenian migratory settlements and communities emerged in many countries, some of these communities were entitled to self-governance, had their own judiciary etc. In the 15th and subsequent centuries the biggest Armenian settlement was in Constantinople, where Armenians had lived since the times of the Byzantine 27 ARMENIA were self-governing. The first information about Armenians in Moscow pertains to the 14th century. In subsequent centuries the Armenian community in Moscow continued to grow, it built churches and settled in downtown quarters. The Armenian population of Moscow were mostly merchants, servicemen, craftsmen and entrepreneurs. Beginning from the 13th century Armenian communities emerge in Poland. The Armenians of Lvov, Kamenets-Podolsk, Zamosc, Stanislaus and other cities had their own administrations and judges. The Polish authorities favoured Armenians, deeming them useful for the development of crafts and trade. In the same period Armenians appeared in Romania, Bulgaria, Hungary, they also settled in Italy, France and other European countries. empire. The Armenian craftsmen, merchants and industrialists of Constantinople played a leading role in Turkish foreign trade and economy. In 1461 the Armenian Patriarchate was founded in Constantinople. From the 11th century Armenian settlements began to appear in the Crimea, Armenians settled in the cities of Capha (Theodossia), Ak-Mecheti (Simferopol), Surhat (Stary Krym) and others. The Crimean Armenians cultivated land, grew fruit, many Armenian merchants played a significant role in trading with the West as well as the East. Armenian migratory settlements also evolved in Syria (Aleppo) and Egypt (Alexandria and Cairo). The most significant Armenian community in the East was that of New Julfa (Iran), that was widely known in the commercial world for its wealthy Armenian trading houses. There were several major Armenian settlements in Russia, the most significant among these were the community of Astrakhan (founded in the 16th century) and the one in Nor Nakhijevan (founded at the end of the 17th century). Both communities Ending up in an alien environment Armenians displayed unique perseverance, they defied assimilation, preserved their language and cultural traditions. In a certain sense the spiritual life of Armenians throughout the gloomy Middle Ages had moved to the Armenian settlements. It is therefore not accidental that such important events as the 28 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S of the 4th century had fully understood the expediency of it. The Armenian script was developed by vardapet Mesrob Mashtots (circa 362440) with the active support of Catholicos Sahak Partev. The Armenian script, created in the beginning of the 5th century, was based by Mesrob Mashtots on the principle of matching every phoneme of the Armenian language with a proprietary letter. The fact that the letters thus created have been serving the people for the last sixteen centuries attests that Mashtots solved the problem brilliantly. Following the development of the script Mesrob Mashtots em- printing of the first book, the publication of the first Armenian periodical or the emergence of theatre companies took place within the Armenian migratory settlements. The Armenian communities in these also contributed to the forging of links between Armenians and other nations. Armenian medieval culture A most important event in the cultural life of the Armenian society of the early Middle Ages was the development of the Armenian script. The creation of the national script was determined first of all by the necessity of translating into the Armenian language of the Bible and books of sermons, since the Armenian church strived to ensure the accessibility of the Christian teaching for its congregations. Apart from that the Aramaic, Greek and Assyrian that have been used as the written language in Armenia through different periods only had limited application and were accessible exclusively to the elite. It was apparent that the lack of Armenian script proper was not only hampering the development of original literature, theological and academic endeavors, but also of the Armenian language itself. The fact that the idea of creating an Armenian script enjoyed such wide endorsement comes to prove that the Armenian society The Mesrob Mashtots Memorial in Yerevan barks with his students on the translation of the Bible into the Armenian language and after that founds schools where children learn Armenian. The script became a solid foundation for the further development of the Armenian language, it 29 ARMENIA contributed to the formation and development of genuinely national Armenian culture. Since culture as such was a decisive factor in the preservation of the singularity of Armenians, the creation of the Armenian script transcends the significance of a purely cultural event. Byuzand and Lazar of Parb. Their works shed light on the main events of Armenian history, beginning with approximately the 3rd century: the conversion of Armenians into Christianity, the formation of Armenian statehood, relations of Armenia with other countries etc. The work of historian Korune (5th century) is dedicated to the deeds of Mesrob Mashtots, while his contemporary Yeghishe describes in great detail the uprising of Armenians against Persian rule under the leadership of Vardan Mamikonian. The father of Armenian historiography Moses of Khoren also worked in the 5th century, his work History of Armenia is the summit of medieval Armenian historical school of thought. Moses of Khoren was the first among Armenian historians to attempt to lay down a complete history of the Armenian people from its emergence to the authors time. The events of the 6th to 8th centuries are recounted in the works of historians Sebeos (7th century) and Ghevond (8th century). The development of Armenian historiography carried on through subsequent centuries. The medieval Armenian historiography was completed by the fundamental work of Mikael Chamchian, the three volumes of The history of Armenia (published by the end of 18th century). This work Historiography has an important role in medieval Armenian culture, it had formed by the 5th century. This century is represented by historians Agathangelos, Pavstos The statue of Movses Khorenatsi in Yerevan 30 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S outlines the history of the Armenian people from ancient times to the 18th century, and it marked the maturation of Armenian historiography into a new period of development. legacy is left by Anania Shirakatsi (7th century), a geographer, cosmographer and mathematician, who offered an accurate explana- The Middle Ages is a period of development of Armenian theological and philosophical schools, the time for philosophical apprehension of the Christian teaching. The first works in this domain were authored by Mesrob Mashtots and his disciple Yeznik of Kolb, who acted as advocates of Christianity. The greatest Armenian philosopher of the early Middle Ages was the follower of neoplatoism David Anhaght (the Invincible), whose works deal with the fundamental problems of philosophy of the time: the theory of cognizance, logic, aesthetics, interpretation of the categories of classical Greek philosophy etc. In the centuries to come the struggle of the Armenian church for its independence and against the attempts of Catholicism to impose a union on Armenians had a significant impact on the development of Armenian theological and philosophical schools. Armenian theologians and philosophers protected in their works the national church and its teaching. The statue of Anania Shirakatsi in Yerevan tion for such natural phenomena as the succession of seasons, solar eclipses, tides etc. Armenian scholars had scored in medical science as well. The most prominent representative of Armenian medical school Mkhitar Heratsi (11 century) in his work Appeasement of fevers offered a description of symptoms of Medieval Armenian scholars were interested in a wide scope of natural sciences: geography, mathematics, medicine etc. A great 31 ARMENIA Middle Ages) poem strives to reveal the inner world of a man, his cravings and passions. This work of Grigor Narekatsi is an ode to the Human, it is the precursor of Renaissance in Armenian culture. many conditions along with recommendations for their treatment. The works of a 15th century doctor Amirdovlat Amasiatsi are on general practice and pharmacology, outlining the accomplishments of contemporary medicine. The creation of Armenian script provided an incentive for the development of Armenian literature, that possessed rich traditions of oral lore prior to that. The medieval historians may rightfully be considered the first Armenian writers, many of them not only possessed outstanding literary talent, but they also incorporated in their works samples of folklore: myths and legends, saving them for generations to come. As early as in the 5th century an important literary genre branched off, the hagiography, represented by numerous deeds of the saints. The principal poetic genres were spiritual poems and hymns, the s h a r a k a n s and the k t s o u r d s , their first authors were Mesrob Mashtots and Sahak Partev. Outstanding poets, Catholicos Komitas and Davtag Kertogh worked in the 7th century. Armenian poetry of the late medieval period was marked by the creation of a work that was to become the culmination of the poetry of the time. It is the Book of lamentations by Grigor Narekatsi (10th century). This profoundly religious (which is characteristic for the Grigor Narekatsi. A portrait in a 12th century manuscript The poetry of Kostandin Yerznkatsi (1314th centuries) has clear secular motifs, the poems of Frik (13th century) touch upon social issues, the poet stands up for justice, while Nahapet Kuchak (16th century) was a fine romantic. The medieval Armenian poetry is crowned by the work of a formidable poet SayatNova (18th century), an apex of lyricism. Oral poetic lore, possessing fine traditions, continued to develop throughout the Middle Ages. The 32 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S temple of Zvartnots collapsed from an earthquake impact. The Armenian architecture reached a new peak under the Bagratids. Numerous churches and cathedrals, palaces, guest houses etc. were built in the Bagratid capital of Ani, making up a wonderful architectural ensemble. Following the 14th century there came a certain slack in the development of Armenian architecture. According to the opinion of historians of architecture the best samples of Armenian architecture had an impact on the architecture of many countries. greatest monument of this genre is the epic David of Sassoun, which reflects the struggle of the Armenian people against Arab rule in the 9th 10th centuries. This epic tale condenses the outlook of the people, it sings praise to justice, kindness and the outgoing character so understandable for the people. This epic went down from generation to generation through oral lore until it got recorded in the 19th century. Armenian architecture of the medieval period was highly developed, it had produced a succession of genuine masterpieces. The church architecture was most advanced and it had progressed through several stages. The initial shape of the Armenian church was the basilica. Among stone basilicas the most famous is the church in Kassakh (45th centuries) and the Yererouyk basilica (5th century). Later on the cross based cupola shape became prevalent for churches. The most outstanding monument of this period is the St. Hripsime church in Ejmiatsin, built by Catholicos Komitas in 618 on the site of the legendary martyrdom of Virgin Hripsime. The temple of Zvartnots (of vigilant forces) is a formidable monument close to Ejmiatsin. The footprint of the huge temple is round, it had three tiers astounding in their magnificence. In the tenth century the The fine arts in medieval Armenia mostly developed in three modes: frescoes, mosaics and book Toros Roslin. The adoration of the Magi 33 ARMENIA illuminations. The murals were not widespread, out of churches with preserved frescoes the better known are the churches in Aruch, Talin, Lmbat (7th century). In the 6th7th centuries mosaics depicting grapevines, birds and fish decorated the Armenian churches of Jerusalem. In the late Middle Ages the Armenian book illumination flourished. A great number of manuscripts were illuminated with miniatures, the dyes of which have not faded through the centuries. There were several schools of Armenian miniature painting: the Cilician, the Vaspourakan, the Artsakh, the Gladzor etc., each of which had its own unique features and traditions. Toros Roslin (13th century), the greatest miniature painter, represented the Cilician school. script, Mesrob Mashtots and his disciples used to teach there. The schools as a rule were maintained by the church, most of them were at monasteries and the teachers were the v a r d a p e t s, monks that were reserved the right to teach. The quantity of such schools increased by the late Middle Ages, they were in a number of cities of Western and Eastern Armenia: Ani, Narek, Karin, Tatev, Sanahin, etc. In Cilicia such schools existed in Sis, Akner etc. Later in the 1718th centuries Ejmiatsin became the leading educational centre for Eastern Armenia, while Constantinople remained such for Western Armenians. The highest degree of education was offered by universities, the most famous among these were the Gladzor (1314th centuries) and the Tatev (1415th centuries) Universities. Along with theology these universities taught natural sciences, philosophy, music and other subjects. The graduates received the title of vardapet. The medieval universities were also research centres. They had m a t e n a d a r a n s , depositaries of manuscripts, and the teachers wrote academic treatises. Two Catholic congregations of Armenian monks in Venice and Vienna played a significant role in the development of different branches of Armenology. The first was founded in 1717 on Armenian medieval music was predominantly spiritual. The liturgy in the Armenian church was accompanied by hymns. Certain psalms and hymns that were performed in the church had acquired over time a new, secular content. By the end of the Middle Ages the art of gousans and ashoughs was quite commonplace, they sang songs to their own lyrics. The enlightenment was an important component of medieval Armenian culture. The first Armenian schools were founded immediately upon the invention of the Armenian 34 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S Ejmiatsin printshop was founded, the first in Armenia proper. In 1794 the first Armenian periodical was published in Madras, the Azdarar (Herald) magazine, which marked the onset of the bicentennial history of Armenian periodicals. the island of San Lazarro in the Venetian Gulf by Mekhitar Sebastatsi, and it was later called in his honour the Mekhitarist congregation. The second was founded in 1811 by several members of the initial brotherhood that have left Venice. Both congregations continue to operate today. The search for ways of liberation On the eve of the New Age two important events took place in the history of Armenian culture. In 1512 in Venice first Armenian printing was initiated. The printer Hakob Meghapart published in a printshop he had founded the first Armenian printed book Friday book, that contained diverse information. The second half of the 17th century and the entire 18th century were marked by consistent search by the Armenians of ways for liberation from the yoke of two Eastern despots: Turkey and Iran. The leading role in this was reserved to the Armenian church that epitomized the interests of the nation. Initially the Armenians attempted to solicit help from the European countries. With this purpose missions were sent by the Armenian church to Europe, approaching different European governments and the Holy See to no avail. The strengthening of the Russian state in the 1617th centuries and the increase of its role in international relations prompted the Armenian socio-political circles to view Russia as the external force that could help the liberation of Armenian from the yoke of Turkey The first Armenian printed book Ourbatagirk, published by Hakob Maghapart Somewhat later Armenian printshops were founded in Constantinople, as well as in Lvov and Amsterdam in the 17th century, in Madras (India) in the 18th century, and then in St. Petersburg, Astrakhan, Nor Nakhijevan. In 1771 the 35 ARMENIA and Iran. Due notice was taken of the fact that Russian militarystrategic and economic interests urged it to procreate its power in the Transcaucasus and ensure access to the Middle East. Foreign political interests of Russia apparently coincided with the interests of the Armenian people. In the very beginning of the 18th century a renowned figure of the Armenian liberation movement Israel Ori, following his failure to ensure the support of European states, arrived in Russia and conducted negotiations with Tzar Peter I. The latter, governed by Russian interests, pledged to offer assistance in the liberation of Armenia. And although this intention did not materialize at the time, in subsequent plans of the liberation of Armenia Russia was once again a major player. din. As a result of the Russo-Persian war of 18041813 Russia annexed, among other territories, Karabagh (Artsakh). And, finally, in the course of the Russo-Persian war of 18261828 the Russian troops took over Yerevan on October 1, 1828. Pursuant to the Turkmenchai treaty of February, 1828, Iran accepted the transfer into Russian rule of the Yerevan and Nakhijevan khanates. Thus the greater part of Eastern Armenia was joined with Russia. The masses of the Armenian people welcomed the inclusion of Eastern Armenia into the Russian empire, they rightfully maintained that at least a portion of the Armenian people was thus relieved of the threat of physical extermination. As a part of Russia that had embarked on a path of capitalistic development, the economy of Eastern Armenia underwent a certain rise. Agriculture became its leading sector, although beginning from the second half of the 19th century substantial shifts occurred in industry as well: copper mining, processing of agricultural produce, wine and cognac production. By the end of the century the railway construction had Eastern Armenia as part of Russia The Russian policy towards the Transcaucasus has yielded specific results from the beginning of the 19th century. In 1801 Georgia acceded to Russia, along with it the Northern regions of Armenia also were added to Russia: Lori-Pambak and Shamsha- 36 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S idea of a reprisal. The Zeytoun uprising of 1862 is one of the heroic pages in the national-liberation struggle of Armenians. Zeytoun became the symbol of courage and selflessness of Armenian freedom fighters. commenced. Nevertheless Armenia still remained a supplier of raw materials for the Russian industry. Armenian workers labored not only in Eastern Armenian enterprises, but also in the industries of neighbouring Georgia and Azerbaijan. In the middle of the 1870s the liberation movement of the Balkan peoples against the Turkish yoke gained momentum. Russia openly supported the revolt of Slavic peoples. In the Russo-Turkish war that followed in 18771878 Russia won a comprehensive victory. In the course of the war Russian troops liberated a substantial part of Western Armenia, took the cities of Ardahan, Bayazet, Alashkert, Kars, Erzeroum. On March 3, 1878, a peace agreement was signed in San-Stefano. The terms of the agreement fixed the strengthening of Russian position on the Balkans and in the Transcaucasus: Bulgaria, Serbia, Montenegria and Romania were liberated from the Turkish yoke, Russia received a part of Bessarabia, as well as the cities of Batum, Kars, Ardahan and Bayazet. The rest of the territory of Western Armenia taken by Russians during the war went back to Turkey. Upon the demand of Western Armenian public a special Article (16) was included in the text of the agreement with a view of granting Western Armenians certain safeguards National-liberation struggle of Western Armenians in the second half of the 19th century. The emergence of the Armenian question In the second half of the 19th century the situation of Western Armenians under the rule of the Ottoman empire continued to deteriorate. Western Armenian farmers were mercilessly exploited, they were subjected to arbitrary treatment by the authorities, to ethnic pressure.The situation provoked the natural protest of Western Armenians, that more often than not took the form of rebellions. The best known among these was the heroic uprising of the Zeytoun Armenians in 1862. The inhabitants of Zeytoun, an alpine settlement in Cilicia, through their stubborn resistance forced the Turkish authorities to negotiate with them and drop the 37 ARMENIA Russia ended up in complete isolation at the congress, the European countries came up with a joint front against her. The San-Stefano agreement was revised and Russia was deprived of many a fruit of its military triumph. Russia even failed to insist on the adoption of a resolution in defence of the interests of Western Armenians. The Berlin agreement included Article 61 providing for the implementation of reforms in the Armenian-populated areas, but the language was not backed by the important safeguard provided by the San-Stefano agreement: the presence of Russian troops in Western Armenia. The further developments demonstrated that the Turkish authorities not only failed to comply with the requirements of Article 61 of the Berlin Agreement, they embarked on the implementation of their own programme of resolving the Armenian Question through physical extermination of Western Armenians. and rights within the Turkish state. Pursuant to this article Turkey was obliged to undertake the necessary reforms in the Armenian-populated areas and the guarantor of these reforms was to be the Russian army, remaining for that purpose on the territory of Western Armenia for the duration of six months. With the signing of the San-Stefano agreement the plight of Western Armenians became an issue of international relations, the A r m e n i a n Q u e s t i o n , that was destined to become the topic of discussions in international diplomacy for a long time to come. The general post-war situation along with the strengthening of Russia was in no way in the interests of the European powers, not to mention Turkey. England and the Austro-Hungarian empire insisted on holding a congress of European countries with the purpose of discussing post-war settlement in Europe. Berlin was decided to be the venue of the congress. Upon learning of the congress the Western Armenian society decided to send an Armenian delegation to Berlin and submit to the participants of the congress documents substantiating the necessity to grant Western Armenians national autonomy within Turkey. The delegation was headed by a renowned clergyman and politician Mkrtich Khrimian. Following the Berlin Congress. The formation of Armenian political parties The resolutions of the Berlin Congress disillusioned the politically active segment of the Armenian society. A conviction began to prevail that the nation should itself take care of its own issues. 38 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S The need for the organization of national liberation struggle was substantiated by many famous public figures, the writers Raffi and Raphael Patkanian, columnist Grigor Artsruni and others in particular. Different organizations, societies and groups began to emerge, they set forth their own programmes for the liberation of the Armenian people. And though these organizations were operating both in Western and in Eastern Armenia, they had limited membership and were unable to unfold wide-scale activities. They were but a phase in the formation of Armenian political parties. group of Armenian students in Switzerland created in Geneva a socialdemocratic party Hnchak by the name of the Hnchak (Bell) paper they published. The principal objective of the party was the resolution of the Armenian Question. In 1890 in Tiflis the party Armenian Revolutionary Federation (Dashnaktsoutyun) was founded. In order to attain the principal objective, the resolution of the Armenian Question, the party adopted methods of armed struggle and impacting the international public opinion. The Dashnaktsoutyun party created its organizational units in Western and Eastern Armenia, as well as in Europe and the Middle East. Shortly thereafter it became one of the most influential Armenian political parties. The emergence of Armenian political parties was determined by further strengthening towards the end of the 19th century of the national liberation struggle of Armenians. The programmes of Armenian political parties gave central priority to the resolution of the Armenian Question and the liberation of Western Armenians. In 1885 the first Armenian political party, the Armenakan organization (by the name of the Marseilles- published newspaper Armenia) was formed. The party predominantly operated in Vaspourakan (Western Armenia). Its programme provided for the liberation of the Armenian people with the subsequent creation of a state. In 1887 a The Armenian haydouk movement One of the forms of the liberation struggle of Western Armenians was the haydouk movement. With the purpose of protecting the lives and property of Western Armenian population armed groups of haydouks (fedayeen) were created from among the Armenian youth. The haydouk movement gained extensive momentum in many areas of Western Armenia: Sassoun, Taron, Van, Shapin-Garahissar and 39 ARMENIA other locations. The fedayeen enjoyed popular support, they were familiar with the local terrain and were skilled in diverse nian political parties failed to lead the movement and, finally, the forces were too unequal: the entire state with its army and law enforcement confronted the Armenian fedayeen. The massacre of Armenians in Turkey at the end of the 19th century Meanwhile the Turkish authorities were planning a reprisal against the Armenian population, preparing to put an end to its liberation struggle. In 18941896 the Turkish authorities organised a large-scale slaughter of Armenians in Western Armenia and in other Armenian-populated areas of Turkey. The slaughter was marked by extreme cruelty. The pogroms took place in Sassoun, Constantinople, Trebizond, Marash, Karin, Van and other locations. The total death toll was not less than 300 thousand Armenians, hundreds of villages and towns were razed. In some areas the Armenian population came up with resistance. But the forces were too unequal. The addresses of Western and Eastern Armenian public to the European powers requesting to protect the Arme- The monument to the Armenian fedayeen in the village of Oujan (Aragatsotn province) combat tactics in their fight against the Turkish troops and gendarmerie. Many heroes emerged from within the haydouk movement, they were extremely popular with the people. Gevorg Chavoush, Aghbyur Serob, Andranik, Nikol Douman and others were nimble and brave leaders of haydouk formations. Still, their heroism and selflessness notwithstanding, the haydouk movement failed to succeed. The haydouk groups acted without coordination, the Arme- 40 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S nians and force the government of Sultan Abdul Hamid to stop the massacre were to no avail. nowned was the Nercissian school, opened in 1824. Following the accession of Eastern Armenia to Russia public district as well as private schools were opened in Alexandropol, Yerevan, Shushi. In 1874 the Gevorgian seminary was founded in Armenian culture of the 19th century In the 19th century the Armenian culture comprised three elements: Eastern Armenian culture, Western Armenian culture and the culture of Armenian migratory settlements. Each of these three directions developed under the influence of factors that determined the lives of the respective segments of the people. Still Armenian culture was essentially an integrity that expressed the interests of the nation. The Gevorgian seminary in Ejmiatsin Ejmiatsin, it later became a centre of Armenology. Substantial shifts have taken place in the domain of education. In the first half of the 19th century a number of national schools were founded in the Armenian migratory settlements. The most famous among these were the Skyutari seminary and the Nercissian school in Constantinople, the Mesrobian school in Smyrna, the Murad-Raphaelian Mekhitarist school in Venice, the Armenian schools in Astrakhan, Nor Nakhijevan, Theodossia and other locations. In 1815 the industrialists Lazarevs founded a seminary in Moscow, that later became the Lazarev Institute of Oriental Languages. There were several public and private schools in Tiflis, among which the most re- In the 19th century the scope of book printing expanded substantially. Within the 19th century there were at least 130 Armenian printshops in Constantinople only. There were Armenian printshops in Vienna and Venice (at the Mekhitarist congregations), in Cairo, Alexandria, Tehran, Paris, Calcutta and other places. In the first half of the century printshops were founded in Moscow (the most famous was at the Lazarian seminary), in Tiflis, in Eastern Armenia the biggest printshop was a t Ejmiatsin, founded by the end of the 18th century. 15 thousand books (textbooks, dictionaries, fiction, 41 ARMENIA The natural sciences were represented by scholars working in Europe and Russia. These include the prominent geologist Andreas Artsruni, who worked in Russia and Germany, chemist Giacomo (Hakob) Chamchian, who worked in Italy, geologist Leonid Spendiarian, who worked in Russia. academic publications) and over 1,300 periodicals were printed in the course of the 19th century. Within the Armenian academia in the 19th century armenology was still the leading discipline. A multitude of Armenological problems were dealt with in the Vienna and Venice Mekhitarist congregations, in the Moscow Lazarev Institute of Oriental Languages, in the Ejmiatsin Gevorgian seminary. Notable scholars like Mikael Chamchian, Ghukas Inchinian, Ghevond Alishan (Venice) stood at the cradle of Armenian historiography of modern times. A group of historians and armenologists worked in Russia: Mkrtich Emin, Kerovbe Patkanian, Karapet Yezian (Ezov), Grigor Khalatian, they made a great contribution to the study of the history of ancient Armenia, the historical Armeno-Russian relations, they translated into Russian and published medieval Armenian sources. Armenian linguistics was also quite successful in the 19th century. The scholars of the Vienna Mekhitarist congregation elaborated works on the history and grammar of the Armenian language. The most significant accomplishment in the study of folklore was the recording by Garegin Srvandztian and publication of the national epic David of Sassoun. During the 19th century Armenian literature went through a productive development process, marked with periods of classicism, romanticism and, finally, realism. The literature played a major role in the establishment of the national conscience, in educating the people in a patriotic freedom-loving spirit. The monument to Khachatour Abovian in Kanaker, next to his memorial house 42 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S work became the epitome of Armenian romanticism. The work of novelists Perj Proshian, Ghazaros Aghayan, playwright Gabriel Soundoukian and others played a major role in the development of Armenian literature. Hakob Paronian was an unsurpassed master of satire. The emergence of the Armenian professional theatre is dated by the second half of the 19th century (Constantinople, 1861). Two years later a professional theatre company was created in Tiflis. The first generation of Armenian actors included brilliant masters such as Petros Adamian, Siranouysh, Azniv Hrachia, Gevorg Chmshkian et al. The monument to Mikael Nalbandian in Yerevan The great Armenian author Khachatour Abovian is rightfully considered to be the progenitor of new Armenian literature. His work had predetermined to a great extent the prospects of further development of Armenian literature. Armenian literature underwent a new rise in the 185060s, when the writers began to address problems of popular concern more frequently: the fate of the fatherland and the nation, social and national liberation. These motifs appeared in the works of poets Mikael Nalbandian, Smbat Shahaziz, Petros Durian, Mkrtich Peshiktashlian, Raphael Patkanian. From the 1870s onwards prose writing assumed the leading role in Armenian literature. Novelist Raffi came center stage of the literary process, his The establishment of new Armenian music of a European level pertains to the work of composer Tigran Chukhajian, who worked in Constantinople. Eastern Armenian music was represented by notable composers Khristofor Kara-Murza, Makar Yekmalian. The gussan art continued to develop, it enjoyed wide popularity among general public. In the 19th century the diversity of genres in Armenian fine arts expanded: highly praised works included landscape and portrait paintings, drawings, still-lifes. Hakob Hovnatanian became the founder of the school of realistic portraits, he descended from a famous Hovnatanian family of artists that created 43 ARMENIA The first World War and the Armenians since the 17th century. The founder of the genre-painting was Stepanos Nercissian, who worked in Tiflis and Shushi. The great sea painter In August, 1914, the first World War began. The German-Austrian bloc that also included Turkey unleashed the war against the Entente countries (England, France, Russia). The war became an insurmountable disaster for the Armenian people. Eastern Armenians, who were Russian nationals, were drafted into the Russian army. Western Armenians, being Turkish nationals, had to serve in the Turkish army contrary to their interests. The Turkish authorities did not trust the Armenians and put the Armenian servicemen together into engineering regiments that did not receive arms. Shortly thereafter the Armenians that were drafted into the Turkish army were exterminated upon the orders of the Turkish high command. This act essentially marked the beginning of the genocide of Armenians in Turkey. The portrait of Natalia Teumian. Hakob Hovnatanian, 1840s Hovhannes (Ivan) Aivazovsky made his own contribution to the development of Armenian painting. Apart from widely known seascapes he also painted a number of works depicting scenes from Armenian history. The apex of Armenian historical painting was the work of Vardges Surenyants. Thus in the 19th century all sectors of Armenian culture underwent qualitative changes that raised the spiritual life of the people to a new dimension. Culture became an important factor of self-affirmation of the Armenian people, preservation of its national integrity. With the beginning of the war in the Transcaucasus a movement emerged in the Armenian settlements of Russia to put together Armenian volunteer groups. Armenians cherished hopes that with the victory of Russia in the war against Turkey Western Armenians would be liberated 44 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S that the plans for the extermination of the Western Armenian population had been in preparation even before the beginning of the World War. After the liquidation of the Armenian conscripts in the Turkish army (February, 1915) the Turkish authorities issued an order in April of 1915 on the deportation and extermination of Armenians in all regions of the empire. On the evening of April 24th arrests began of the Armenian intellectuals in Constantinople. The detained, over 800 writers, journalists, doctors and clergymen were deported into the sticks of Anatolia. Many of the deportees were killed along the way, the remaining were killed upon arrival. Since then April 24th is commemorated by Armenians all over the world as the day of remembrance of the victims of genocide. In 19151916 the destruction en masse of the Armenian population of Western Armenia took place (in the vilayets of Van, Erzeroum, Bitlis, Kharberd, Sebastia, Diarbekir, Trebizond), as well as of Cilicia, Western Anatolia and other locations. The deportation of Armenians from the Turkish yoke. The volunteer movement legitimately picked up the centuries-old tradition of the nationalliberation struggle of the Armenian people. Seven Armenian volunteer corps were formed within a short time-frame, they were lead by Andranik (A. Ozanian), Dro (D. Kanayan), Hamazasp (H. Srvandztian), Keri (A. Gavafian), Vardan (V. Meghrabian), A. Janpoladian (later H. Bjshkian) and H. Argoutian. The total manpower of the Armenian volunteer corps was 10 thousand men. The Armenian volunteer corps took an active participation in combat. During military action on the Caucasian front between 1914 1917 the Russian troops defeated the Turks and liberated a substantial part of Western Armenia. This situation was maintained at the time of conclusion of armistice on the Caucasian front, following the withdrawal of Russia from the war. The genocide of Armenians of 19151916 Taking advantage of the outbreak of war, the Turkish authorities set out to implement the long-planned programme of extermination of the Armenian population of Turkey. Documentary evidence irrefutably attests 45 ARMENIA iles and dispersed over the world, adding to the existing Armenian communities and establishing new ones. Tremendous damage was done to the material and spiritual culture of Armenians. The intellectual potential of the nation suffered irrecover- pursued the final objective of their liquidation. There were concentration camps for Armenians created in Mesopotamia and in Syria, only a part of the deportees made it there and the massacres carried on in the camps as well. The actions of the The Memorial to victims of the Genocide of 1915. Yerevan Turkish villains were marked by unrivalled cruelty. There are many eyewitness accounts preserved that describe the unprecedented suffering borne by the Armenian population. The total number of victims reaches 1.5 million people, approximately 800,000 Armenians became ex- able loss. Famous authors and poets Grigor Zohrab, Varoujan, Siamanto, Rouben Sevak and others, many columnists, painters, actors, scholars fell victim to the atrocities. Unable to withstand the mental overload the great composer Komitas went mad. Hundreds of historical and 46 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S architectural monuments and thousands of manuscripts were destroyed, many sanctuaries of the people were desecrated. since they had fled the country immediately upon its defeat. The capital punishment of some of them (Talaat, Bekhaeddin Sakir, Jemal Azim, Said Khalim et al) was executed later by Armenian avengers. In some locations the Armenian population came up with stubborn resistance against Turkish villains. The Armenians of Van resorted to self-defence in the Spring of 1915, they succeeded in fencing off the attacks of the enemy and kept the city in their hands until the arrival of Russian troops and Armenian volunteers. The Armenians of ShapinGarahissar, Moush, Sassoun, Fintichag also came up with steadfast resistance against the overwhelming forces of the enemy. The epic of the defenders of Mousa Dagh in Suetia lasted for forty days. The Republic of Armenia (19181920) In February 1917, at the height of the World War, Russia underwent a bourgeois-democratic revolution, as a result of which monarchy was overthrown and a Provisional Government was formed. Russia embarked on a path of democratic development. Unfortunately democratic Russia did not have long to live. In October of 1917 the Bolshevik party, taking advantage of the continuing economic crisis and of the popular dissatisfaction with war, toppled the Provisional Government and took the power in Petrograd and, later, in Moscow and a number of other regions of Russia. The Bolshevik government headed by Vladimir Lenin declared its withdrawal from the war. In December, 1917, a separate armistice was signed between Russia and Germany with its allies. The Russian troops began evacuating the Caucasian front. Progressive mankind condemned the atrocities of Turkish pogroms. Public figures, politicians, scholars and intellectuals in many countries stigmatized the genocide and participated in extending humanitarian assistance to the Armenian people. After the defeat of Turkey in the first World War the leaders of the Young Turks were accused of leading Turkey into the disastrous war and were taken to court. They were also accused in the perpetration of the genocide of Armenians. But the verdict against the former heads of Turkey was passed in absentiam, 47 ARMENIA tween the members of the Transcaucasian Republic Armenia, Georgia and Azerbaijan. It became apparent, in particular, that Azerbaijan had assumed a pro-Turkish orientation and would not impede with the entry of Turkish troops into the Transcaucasus. As for Armenians, the Turkish invasion loomed with the recurrence of genocide, this time in Eastern Armenia. The controversies turned out to be insurmountable and on May 26, 1918, the Transcaucasian Sejm recorded the fact of the breakdown of the Transcaucasian Republic. On May 26, 1918, the independence of Georgia was pro claimed, this was followed on May 27 by the proclamation of independence of Azerbaijan and on May 28, 1919, Armenia proclaimed its independence. The restoration of Armenian statehood became possible in view of the fact that in those very days of May the Armenian people stood up in a united drive in defence of the fatherland and in the battles of Sardarapat, Karaklis and Bash-Aparan succeeded in halting the advancement of Turkish troops and preventing their invasion into the Ararat The national political parties of the Transcaucasus assumed a hostile attitude towards the October coup in Russia and took the orientation of detaching the Transcaucasus from Russia. They created their own governance entities in the Transcaucasus, initially it was the Transcaucasian Commissariat and later, in February 1918, the Transcaucasian Sejm (diet). In January 1918 the Turkish troops in breach of the armistice undertook an attack on the Caucasian front. Without encountering serious resistance, since the front line by that time was de facto denuded, the Turks shortly took over Western Armenia, the Kars region and Batum. The aggression was accompanied with a massacre of the Armenian population. In April 1918 the Transcaucasian Sejm adopted a resolution on the separation of the region from Russia and the formation of a Transcaucasian Democratic Federal Republic. Following that negotiations commenced between the Transcaucasian Republic and Turkey on the conclusion of peace, which failed to yield positive results. The negotiations revealed serious controversies be- 48 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S Hovhannes Kajaznouni: most of the portfolios went to the representatives of the Dashnaktsoutyun party. In August 1919 Alexandre Khatissian became the prime-minister (until May 1920) followed by A. Ohanjanian (until November 28, 1920). The last prime-minister was Simon Vratsian (from November 28, 1920 to December 2, 1920). The Parliament of the Republic of Armenia began its work on August 1, 1918, it was formed on a multi-party basis. In June 1919 elections were held for plain. In the beginning of July of 1918 a peace treaty was signed in Batum with Turkey, pursuant to which the latter recognized the sovereignty of Armenia within a notably curtailed territory that remained under the disposition of the government of Armenia. The Republic of Armenia existed for two and a half years in conditions of dire domestic and international crisis. In July of 1918 the first cabinet was formed headed by The Memorial to the heroes of the Sardarapat battle of 1918 49 ARMENIA conference resolved to grant the U.S.A. a mandate over Armenia. Armenia endorsed this decision but the U.S.A. Senate, upon lengthy deliberation over the issue, declined the offer. In August, 1920, the winning countries concluded the Sevres peace treaty with defeated Turkey. The terms of the treaty were quite advantageous for Armenia: the Turkish party recognized the sovereignty of Armenia, the borders between Armenia and Turkey were to be drawn by the government of the U.S.A. Armenia received access to the Black Sea and the overall territory of Armenia added up to 160 thousand square kilometers. The treaty of Sevres remained on paper, it was not recognized by the new government of Turkey headed by Mustafa Kemal. A decisive role was played here by the rapprochement between Bolshevik Russia and kemalist Turkey. Wary of the fact that Turkey may fall under the control of Soviet Russia, the European powers made concessions and did not insist on compliance of Turkey with the terms of the treaty, whereas Armenia was not able to single-handedly make Turkey respect the treaty of Sevres. Thus failed another attempt at the resolution of the Armenian Question. the new composition of the Parliament, the majority of the seats in which still remained with the Dashnaktsoutyun. In domestic policies the government tried to overcome the economic crisis that had overwhelmed the country. In difficult conditions it became possible to receive food from abroad and thus somewhat mitigate the hunger. The economy livened up a little. An army was created and decisions were taken in constructing a state.The overall situation in the country though continued to remain exigent and the economy was undermined. The commencing process of stabilization received a hard blow by the May, 1920, uprising of the Bolsheviks and the concurrent revolts of the local Turkic population. The principal objective of the foreign policy of the government was, above all, the liberation of the territories captured by the Turks. This became possible following the defeat of Turkey in the first World War. As a result the borders of 1914 were almost completely restored. At the same time the population of Artsakh and Zangezour successfully repelled the attempts of the Turko-Azerbaijani conquerors to take over the respective regions of Armenia. Aspiring to bring up and resolve the Armenian Question, Armenia sent its delegation to the Paris peace conference (19191920). The Paris In September, 1920, Turkey commenced a military offensive 50 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S accomplishments and deprivation, success and sacrifices. The life of the Armenian people evolved around the same axis as that of the rest of the USSR. During the first months of its rule the Soviet power undertook a number of measures to replicate what had already been done in Soviet Russia: the nationalization of land, water, forests and mineral resources, major industries and banks. This put an end to private property, which was considered to represent the first step towards socialism. Historical tradition and the peculiar features of Armenia were ignored. By their stringent policy of expropriation of wheat the Soviets stirred popular discontent among farmers, which outgrew into a revolt by the beginning of 1921, suppressed with the help of Red Army regiments. During the first years of Soviet power Armenia suffered sensible territorial losses. In violation of the national interests of the Armenian people the government of Soviet Russia agreed to yield to Turkey the region of Kars, the district of Surmali, as well as to transfer Nakhijevan to Azerbaijan. Somewhat later against the Republic of Armenia. Armenians withdrew under the onslaught, yielding the enemy the lands so onerously returned. The approaches of Armenia to the allied powers and to the League of Nations were useless. Armenia surrendered and over half of its territory was captured by the Turks. On December 2, 1920, Turkey pressed Armenia to conclude the treaty of Alexandropol, pursuant to which Armenia shrank back to the borders provided by the Batum treaty, denounced the treaty of Sevres and disarmed. On the same day in Yerevan an agreement was concluded between Soviet Russia and the Republic of Armenia, by which the government of Simon Vratsian laid down its powers and Armenia was proclaimed a Soviet Republic. The Republic of Armenia ceased to exist. Armenia in the USSR. The Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic In the seven decades that followed Armenia remained within the USSR. Throughout this period Armenia followed a knotty course of socio-economic and political development, marked by 51 ARMENIA Artsakh (Nagorno Karabagh) was also attached to Azerbaijan. Collectivization caused great damage to the agriculture, which the village never seemed to have recovered from. In general the agriculture of Armenia was way behind the average world level. The rural areas continued to lag behind the cities in their social and cultural development. The single-party system established in Armenia contributed to the deterioration of democracy. As elsewhere in the USSR the elections in Armenia to the soviets (councils) at all levels became fictitious, since the composition of the soviets was determined in advance by party instances. Violations of the law became commonplace. In the second half of 1930s, in the conditions of the cult of the personality tens of thousands of people were unlawfully persecuted in Armenia. In 1949 thousands of families were illicitly exiled from Armenia to the Altay region. The party/state bureaucracy of the republic obediently implemented all instructions originating from the centre. During the years of Soviet domination major steps were taken in the republic to develop the industry. The creation of powerful industry was deemed to be the cornerstone for building socialism. Agriculture in Armenia was sacrificed in favour of this course: the forced collectivization of farms (end of 1920s beginning of 1930s) allowed the state to dispose of agricultural revenue and steer most of it towards the development of industry. As a result copper mining, chemical industry, building materials industry, light industry and food processing developed in Armenia. Serious mistakes were made along the way in the positioning of industrial enterprises, environmental issues were ignored altogether etc. In view of the proactive development of the energy sector mostly energy-intensive industries were created in the republic. Beginning from the 1960s multi-profile machine tool production, instrument-making, production of automation devices, electronics etc. assumed leading positions among Armenian industries. The development of industry made Armenia a predominantly industrial country, it stimulated accelerated rates of urbanization as a result of which nowadays most of the population is urban. The Armenian people took an active part in the second World War. During the years of war against fascist Germany (19411945) hundreds of thousands of Armenians fought at the front line, several Armenian national divisions were formed. Armenian military commanders earned full fame, these included marshals 52 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S Ivan Baghramian, Hamazasp Babajanian, Sergey Khudyakov (A. Khanferiants), admiral Ivan Issakov and others. Many Diaspora Armenians fought within the ranks of allied armies, took part in the Resistance (France, Greece, Bulgaria). country obviously began to fall behind the world level of scientific and technological progress. Corruption and theft of public property, as well as other negative trends became widespread. The popular dissent began to grow. The proclamation of independence of Armenia. The establishment of the Third Republic In the middle of the 1980s important changes took place in the life of the USSR. The new leadership that came to power with Mikhail Gorbachev declared a course of perestroika. Initially a certain amount of success was registered in the establishment of glasnost (transparency), the democratization of social life, real foundations were set for the establishment of a multi-party system. The monument to the fallen in the Great Patriotic War. Azat village (Shirak province) Following the second World War a repatriation en masse of Diaspora Armenians was carried out, as a result of which around 90 thousand repatriates arrived in Armenia. Still, from the middle of the 1970s, along with the deterioration of the standard of living in the USSR, the outflow of Armenians to foreign countries began to increase. The process of democratization also unfolded in Armenia. The rethinking of many events of the past, the return to ethical values that were denied for decades by official ideology, the perception of the Armenians of Armenia and the Diaspora as a single nation that faces the same challenge of self-assertion, all of the above were components in the By the middle of the 1970s negative trends emerged in the development of the economy of the USSR. Extensive methods have exhausted themselves, the 53 ARMENIA them. These atrocities did not receive a political assessment, its real organizers were not revealed and remained unpunished. The commencing Karabagh movement was qualified by the centre as a provocation underwritten by extremists and nationalists. The Karabagh movement received wide support of all strata of the Armenian people. A committee called Karabagh was formed, that took the lead of the ever increasing movement. In these conditions the leadership of the communist party of Armenia isolated itself from the people and thus completely discredited itself. The Karabagh movement continued to grow even after the disastrous earthquake of December, 1988, that struck the northern regions of the republic. The movement outgrew into the Pan Armenian Movement (PAN), that enjoyed wide support by the population and pursued the objective of radical democratic transformations. In January, 1990, with direct connivance of the centre, a new massacre of Armenians was organized in Baku and the situation was aggravated further, turning into an ever insoluble ethnic conflict. Over 300,000 Armenians vacated Azerbaijan, the Azeri population left Armenia. Clashes began in the NKAR, along the Armenian-Azerbaijani border, sometimes outgrowing into real combat. mainstream process of democratization. The Karabagh movement became a sort of catalyst for this process in Armenia. Maintaining that perestroyka should touch upon the domain of ethnic relations, the Armenians of Karabagh, who prior to that have many times unsuccessfully brought A rally in Yerevan in defence of the demands of the Armenians of Artsakh (Nagorno Karabagh). 1988 up the issue of attaching the Nagorno Karabagh Autonomous Region (NKAR) to Armenia, one more time came up with the issue of uniting the two parts of a single nation. This demand, voiced in February, 1988, through a resolution of the Regional Soviet (council) of peoples deputies of NKAR, was met with hostility not only in Azerbaijan, but also in the centre. By the end of February pogroms of Armenians broke out in Sumgait (Azerbaijan), dozens of innocent people fell victim to 54 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S its independence, looking ahead with hope. The reader will gain exposure to the current situation of the Republic of Armenia, its state organization, economy, culture, foreign policy in the subsequent sections of this Guide. In May, 1990, elections took place to the Supreme Soviet of the republic, where the PAM won a landslide. On August 23, 1990, the Supreme Soviet of the republic adopted a declaration of independence of Armenia, that proclaimed the onset of the process of establishment of independent statehood. The Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic was renamed the Republic of Armenia. Later, following the breakup of the Soviet Union, a national referendum was held in September, 1991, whence the overwhelming majority of the population of Armenia opted for the establishment of an independent state. Levon Ter-Petrossian was elected the first president (19911998) of independent Armenia. In March, 1998, Robert Kocharian was elected president of the country. Armenian culture in the 20th century The first decades of the 20th century were marked by outstanding accomplishments of Armenian culture. In all of its domains there were brilliant masters, whose work became an ageless value in Armenian Since the proclamation of independence of Armenia radical transformations have been implemented in all walks of life: the economy, state organization, social and political plains, culture, relations with the external world. In extremely grave conditions, exacerbated by the collapse of the Soviet Union, as well as the dire economic crisis, aggravated by the permanent blockade of land communications and the gas pipeline by Azerbaijan, the Armenian people continues to forge The monument to Avetik Issahakian in Gyumri spiritual life. The poetry of these decades is represented by the works of Hovhannes Toumanian, Avetik Issahakian, Vahan Terian, the illustrious Pleiad of Western Armenian poets Missak Metsarents, Daniel Varoujan, Siamanto and others. The 55 ARMENIA prose writing was enriched by the input of Alexandre Shirvanzade, Vrtanes Papazian, Grigor Zohrab et al. A new step was outlined in the development of Armenian music, determined first and foremost by the work of the great Komitas. Armenian stage art was also on the rise: scores of theatre companies nurtured among them great masters of Armenian stage: Hovhannes Abelian, Vahram Papazian, Hasmik, Arous Voskanian, Hrachia Nercissian and others. Armenian fine arts of the beginning of the 20th century were represented by major masters Armenia by Martiros Sarian, 1923 56 F R O M T H E D E P TH O F C E N T U R I E S istic attitude towards the culture of the past, all of these threatened to cut the continuum of time that is culture. The communist system suppressed the freedom of creation and punished for slightest deviations from the socialist realism canon. The work of the great painter Martiros Sarian was for a long time declared to be outside of the mainstream of socialist realism; in the second half of the 1940s the work of the outstanding composer of our time Aram Khachatourian was sub- of the elder generation: Vardges Sourenyants, Gevorg Bashinjaghian as well as by painters, whose creative potential bloomed through subsequent decades: Martiros Sarian, Yeghishe Tadevossian, Hakob Kojoyan, sculptor Hakob Gurjian. The establishment of Soviet power in Armenia had resulted in serious transformations in the process of development of culture. The exclusive domination of communist ideology, the state policy that aimed Jajour by Minas Avetissian, 1960 jected to unfair and scathing criticism; poets Hovhannes Shiraz and Parouyr Sevak, novelist Hrant Matevossian have experienced to differing extents the pressure of the at making culture a docile instrument of ideological brainwashing, the establishment of the rules of notorious socialist realism that hedged creative freedom, the nihil- 57 ARMENIA to prepare workers of diverse specialities. Quite a wide network of higher educational institutions allows to put out professionals in specialities demanded by the economy. A wide scope of sciences has developed in the country. In 1943 the National Academy of Sciences was founded. The institutes within its structure promote fundamental research as well as Armenology. The studies of the member of the Academy Victor Hambartsoumian (and his school) in astrophysics have won wide acclaim, the same is true of research in physics, chemistry, cybernetics etc. A number of R&D laboratories, institutes and bureaus work on technological problems of production. Armenia is a recognized world centre of Armenology. By virtue of a developed system of higher education Armenia has become a state with high intellectual potential. system in their times. From the second half of the 1950s, following the debunking of the cult of the personality, the erroneous approach to cultural heritage was to a greater extent overcome, contemporary culture was admitted to be the organic successor of the centuries-old culture of the Armenian people. All the obstacles notwithstanding, the real talent always found its way. The best works of authors Derenik Demirjian, Gourgen Mahari, Hrachia Kochar, Hamo Sahian, Sylva Kapoutikian, Moushegh Galshoyan, Vahagn Davtian, artists Minas Avetissian, Grigor Khanjian, Hakob Hakobian, architects Alexandre Tamanian, Raphael Israelian and others have rightfully claimed their due place in the treasury of Armenian culture. During the seven decades significant success has been reached in Armenia in the development of science and education. Systems of mandatory elementary, then secondary education have been consistently implemented. A system of vocational schools has been put in place Armenian culture treats its centuries-old traditions with solicitude, it is perceptive to the accomplishments of world culture and strives to keep the pace with social progress. 58 THE ARMENIAN APOSTOLIC CHURCH Since the proclamation of Christianity a state religion (301 A.D.) and until the year 368 the Armenian church was reporting to the Cilician Metropolitan (in The Armenian church is one of the oldest Christian churches in the world. Since Armenia is a country where Christianity was proclaimed an official state reli- The Ejmiatsin Cathedral (Vagharshapat) Cappadocia). Later by a decree of the Armenian king Pap the Armenian Apostolic church was proclaimed to be independent within the ecumenical church. gion earlier than in other countries, the Armenian Apostolic church is considered to be the elder among the worlds sister Christian churches. 59 ARMENIA menian church the sacraments of Anointing with the myrrh and the Eucharist are performed together with the Baptism. Only their joint exertion makes the sacrament of Baptism effective. The Armenian Apostolic church observes the Lords holidays dedicated to Jesus Christ; the Lords holidays dedicated to Virgin Mary; the Lords holidays dedicated to the Holy Cross and the Lords holidays dedicated to the Holy church. Five among the Lords holidays are called the Great: Epiphany (Christmas and Baptism), Easter, Transfiguration, Ascension, Exaltation of the Cross. These are perceived not only as religious, but also as popular holidays. Mondays immediately following the great holidays are the days for the remembrance of the dead. The Armenian church calendar has 112 days for the commemoration of the saints. The Armenian church honours the memory of about 400 saints that break down into three groups: Biblical saints (forefathers, Apostles, prophets, Evangelists etc.), Ecumenical saints (martyrs, prelates, fathers of the church and others honoured by all Christian In 303 in the capital of Armenia Vagharshapat the Cathedral of St. Ejmiatsin was consecrated. St. Ejmiatsin became the residence of the Catholicos of all Armenians and the religious centre for Armenians around the world. Subsequently in view of changing socioeconomic and political circumstances the residence of the Catholicos of all Armenians had been moved more than once to other locations: to Dvin, Akhtamar, Argina, Ani. In 1066 the Catholicosate was moved to Cilicia, where it shifted between different towns of the Cilician Armenian kingdom, including the capital city of Sis (until 1441). In 1441 the Catholicosate was moved back to St. Ejmiatsin in Vagharshapat, where it remains until now. The Cilician Catholicosate remained after the fall of the Cilician Armenian kingdom and is currently in Antilias (near Beirut in Lebanon). The Armenian Apostolic church recognizes the following sacraments: Baptism, Anointing of the sick, Penance, Eucharist, Holy orders (Ordination) and Marriage. Baptism is the first sacrament. Those who are not baptised may not share the remaining sacraments. In the Ar- 60 THE ARMENIAN APOSTOLIC CHURCH relic of the Noahs Ark (kept in St. Ejmiatsin), and others. The Catholicosate of all Armenians comprises: the Armenian Patriarchate of Jerusalem (established in the 7th century, the Armenian Patriarchate of Constantinople (established in 1461) and 36 sees (8 of which cover the territory of the Republic of Armenia, one covers the territory of Artsakh and the remaining cover the countries of Europe, the Americas, Asia, Africa and Australia where Armenians live). The head of the Armenian Apostolic church is the Supreme Patriarch and Catholicos of all Armenians, who is elected for life by the Clerical/National Council specially convened for the occasion. The council comprises representatives of the clergy as well as laymen that are elected from all sees and communities of the Armenian church around the world. It was mentioned above that the Armenian Apostolic church has played a prodigious role in the history of the Armenian people. The development of education and national culture closely relate to the endeavors of the church. The church was and remains to be an important factor churches), Armenian saints (about 50 of them, including: martyrs Gayane, Hripsime and others; Gregory the Illuminator, the first Catholicos; king of Armenia Tiridates, who decreed Christianity to be the state religion; Catholicos Nerses the Great of the 4th century; catholicos Sahak Partev, one of the translators of the Bible into the Armenian language; Mesrob Mashtots, the creator of the Armenian alphabet; prince Vardan Mamikonian, the leader of the uprising against Persians in the 5th century; Grigor Narekatsi, a great poet; teachers of the church; theologians Hovhan Vorotnetsi and Grigor Tatevatsi and others). The day of remembrance of each saint is clearly defined in the Armenian church calendar. The Armenian church preserves many relics, among which the most significant are the following: the spearhead that had pierced the rib of Jesus Christ (in the Middle Ages it was kept at the Geghard monastery, now it is in St. Ejmiatsin), reliquary of the right hand of Gregory the Illuminator (is the symbol of power of the Catholicos of all Armenians, kept in St. Ejmiatsin), a 61 ARMENIA vironment was put in place that allows the people to live a spiritual life in accordance with the principles that have been professed by them for centuries and were consecrated by the teaching of the Armenian Apostolic church. of unity for the Armenians of Armenia and Spiurk (the Diaspora), of the preservation of ingeniousness of Armenians abroad. With the proclamation of the Republic of Armenia the impediments for the operation of the church have been completely removed, an en- 62 T H E R E P U B L I C O F A R M E N I A T O DAY STATE ORGANIZATION The Republic of Armenia is a sovereign, democratic, social, rule of law state. The power in the Republic of Armenia belongs to the people. The people administer the power through free elections, referendums as well as through state bodies, bodies of local administration and public officials provided by the Constitution. The state power is administered pursuant to the Constitution and the laws, based on the principle of separation of the legislative, executive and judicial branches. THE CONSTITUTION OF THE REPUBLIC OF ARMENIA The Constitution of the Republic of Armenia was adopted on July 5, 1995, in the result of a popular referendum. The Constitution is the basic law of the Republic of Armenia and is the safeguard of independent democratic society in Armenia, based on the supremacy of social justice and the law. The Constitution affirms the following provisions: the bases for constitutional order the principal rights and freedoms of humans and citizens the President of the Republic the National Assembly (Parliament) the Government the judiciary territorial administration and local self-governance the adoption, amendment of the Constitution and referendum transitional provisions. THE PRESIDENT The Republic of Armenia has a system of presidential rule. Pursuant to the Constitution the President ensures compliance with the Constitution, the normal operation of the legislative, the executive 63 ARMENIA The Chancery of the President of the Republic of Armenia in Yerevan and the judiciary, is the guarantor of sovereignty, territorial integrity and security of the Republic. The president is elected by the citizens of the Republic of Armenia for a term of five years. Any person 35 years of age that has been a citizen of the Republic of Armenia for the preceding ten years, has been a permanent resident of the Republic of Armenia for the preceding ten years, and having a voting right may be elected President. The same person may not be elected to the office of the President for more than two consecutive terms. THE NATIONAL ASSEMBLY (PARLIAMENT) The National Assembly executes the legislative power in the Republic of Armenia. The current composition of the National Assembly was formed in the result of the elections on May 30, 1999, for a four year term. The elections were a mix between the majoritarian and proportional systems. The National Assembly comprises 131 deputies. 75 deputies are elected by the majoritarian system and 56 by the proportional system 64 T H E R E P U B L I C O F A R M E N I A T O DA Y The building of the National Assembly of the Republic of Armenia in Yerevan (party representation). Only the parties that have received at least 5% of the total votes in the proportional elections (by party lists) may have factions in the parliament. Any 10 or more deputies may form their own caucus. THE GOVERNMENT OF THE REPUBLIC OF ARMENIA The government of the Republic of Armenia executes the executive power in the Republic of Armenia. It comprises the Prime Minister and the ministers. The structure and the operating procedures of the government are defined by a decree of the President of the Republic of Armenia upon presentation by the Prime Minister. The President of the Republic appoints the the Prime Minister (the Varchapet) to head the Cabinet. The members of the Cabinet, the ministers (nakharars) are appointed upon the nomination of the Prime Minister. The sessions of the Cabinet are convened and moderated by the President of the Republic of Armenia or, upon delegation by the latter, by the Prime Minister. 65 ARMENIA The resolutions of the government are signed by the Prime Minister and endorsed by the President of the Republic of Armenia. The following ministers are members of the Cabinet (as of June, 1999): of Agriculture On Coordination of operation of production infrastructure of Culture, youth issues and sport Chief of staff of Government-Minister of Defence of Economics of Education and science of Energy of Environmental protection of Finance of Foreign affairs of Health of Industry and trade of Internal affairs of Justice The Government House of the Republic of Armenia on the Republic Square in Yerevan 66 T H E R E P U B L I C O F A R M E N I A T O DA Y of National security of Post and telecommunications of Privatisation of Public revenue of Social security of Statistics, state registry and analysis of Territorial governance of Transport of Urban development. THE CONSTITUTIONAL COURT The Constitutional court of the Republic of Armenia comprises nine members, five of whom are appointed by the National Assembly and another four by the President of the Republic of Armenia. Members of the Constitutional court are appointed for a term that expires upon their reaching the age of 70. Their powers cease only in the cases and by the procedure defined by the Constitution and the laws of the Republic of Armenia. The Constitutional court, in a manner stipulated by law: determines the conformity with the Constitution of laws, resolutions of the National Assembly, decrees, findings of the President of the Republic of Armenia, resolutions of the Government prior to ratification determines the conformity with the Constitution of the obligations stipulated by international agreements offers opinion on the existence of grounds for the impeachment of the President of the Republic of Armenia offers opinion on the impossibility of further execution of powers by the President of the Republic of Armenia adopts resolutions, in a manner stipulated by law, on suspension or prohibition of the operation of political parties... The following are reserved the right to apply to the Constitutional court: the President of the Republic of Armenia no less than one third of the deputies 67 ARMENIA presidential candidates of the Republic of Armenia over disputes pertaining to the results of the elections the Government in the event of impossibility for the President of the Republic to execute his/her powers. The Constitutional court hears cases only upon the existence of a respective application. ADMINISTRATIVE DIVISION. TERRITORIAL GOVERNANCE AND LOCAL SELF-ADMINISTRATION Provinces and communities are the administrative/territorial units of the Republic of Armenia. The provinces comprise rural and urban communities. The communities execute local self-governance. The bodies of local self-governance are elected for a three year term with the purpose 68 T H E R E P U B L I C O F A R M E N I A T O DA Y of administering community property and resolving issues of community significance. These bodies are the council of elders of the community comprising between five and fifteen members, the head of the community: city mayor, village head. The head of the community forms his/her administration. The council of elders endorses the budget of the community, controls the execution of the budget, defines local taxes and payments. State governance is administered in the provinces (marz). The central government appoints and relieves provincial governors (marzpets), that administer the regional policies of the Cabinet, coordinate the operation of provincial services of the republican executive. The city of Yerevan possesses the status of a province. The mayor of Yerevan is appointed by the President of the Republic upon the nomination by the Prime Minister. Local self-governance within Yerevan is administered in district communities. THE PROVINCES OF ARMENIA province provincial centre 1 Aragatsotn Ashtarak 162.5 121 3 112 2 Ararat Artashat 305.0 98 4 93 3 Armavir Armavir 315.5 98 3 4 population as of 1996 (thousands) settlements urban rural commu- communities nities 4 Gegharkounik Gavar 272.4 98 5 87 5 Kotayk Hrazdan 325.9 69 7 60 6 Lori Vanadzor 392.4 130 8 105 7 Shirak Gyumri 358.3 131 3 116 8 Sunik Kapan 161.9 135 7 106 9 Tavoush Ijevan 154.8 65 4 58 68.3 55 3 41 1,249.4 1 12 3,766.4 1,001 59 872 10 Vayots Dzor Yeghegnadzor 11 Yerevan Yerevan total 69 ARMENIA THE COMMUNITIES OF THE CITY OF YEREVAN 1. Ajapniak 2. Arabkir 3. Avan 4. Centre 5. Davtashen 6. Erebouni 7. Kanaker-Zeytoun 8. Malatia-Sebastia 9. Nor Nork 10. Nork-Marash 11. Noubarashen 12. Shengavit THE JUDICIARY Justice is administered in the Republic of Armenia exclusively by the courts of law in conformity with the Constitution and the laws. In cases provided for by the law the legal proceedings involve the participation of a jury. In the Republic of Armenia the courts of general jurisdiction are the courts of the first instance, the review courts and the cassation court. Economic courts, military tribunals and other courts provided by law also operate in the Republic of Armenia. The establishment of extraordinary courts is prohibited. The guarantor of the independence of the judiciary is the President of the Republic of Armenia. He/she is the head of the Council of Justice. The judges are appointed for a term that expires upon their reaching the age of 65. Their powers cease only in the cases and by the procedure defined by the Constitution and the laws of the Republic of Armenia. In administering justice the judges are independent and are governed only by the law. STATE HOLIDAYS AND REMEMBRANCE DAYS The following are the state holidays and remembrance days in the Republic of Armenia: 70 T H E R E P U B L I C O F A R M E N I A T O DA Y From December 31 to January 6 Christmas holidays. December 31, January 1, 2 (New Year) and 6 (Christmas and Epiphany) are days off. April 7 Day of motherhood and beauty (day off). On this day men give presents to their mothers, wives, sisters and girlfriends. April 24 Remembrance day of the victims of Armenian Genocide (day off). May 9 Victory and peace day (day off). On this day Armenians honour the memory of hundreds of thousands of their sons that fought against fascism during the second World War in the ranks of the Armed Forces of the Soviet Union and Allied Powers. May 28 The day of the First Republic (day off). July 5 Constitution day (day off). September 21 Independence day (day off). On September 21, 1991, the free and independent Republic of Armenia was proclaimed pursuant to the result of a national referendum. December 7 Day of remembrance of the victims of the earthquake of 1988. ARMENIA ON THE INTERNATIONAL SCENE The basic principles of the foreign policy of the Republic of Armenia are affirmed in the Constitution: The foreign policy of the Republic of Armenia is carried out in conformity with the rules of international law with the purpose of establishing good neighbourly and mutually beneficial relations with all states. The government of the Republic of Armenia is called upon to implement this constitutional principles. Presently (as of July, 1999) the Republic of Armenia has established diplomatic relations with 125 countries. 71 states have accredited their ambassadors in the Republic of Armenia. 71 ARMENIA Armenia has accredited its ambassadors and representatives in 42 states and 7 international organizations. MEMBERSHIP TO INTERNATIONAL ORGANIZATIONS (A SAMLING) The United Nations Organization (UN) The United Nations Organization on Education, Science and Culture (UNESCO) The Organization of Security and Co-operation in Europe (OSCE) The World Health Organization (WHO) The World Meteorological Organization (WMO) The United Nations Organization of Industrial Development (UNIDO) The Universal Postal Union (UPU) The International Telecommunications Union (ITU) The International Labour Organization (ILO) The International Civil Aeronautics Organization (ICAO) The World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) The North Atlantic Co-operation Council (NACC) Interpol (INTERPOL) The International Organization for the Protection of Monuments (ICOMOS) The International Organization of Satellite Telecommunications (INTELSAT) The International Bank of Reconstruction and Development (IBRD) The International Monetary Foundation (IMF) The United Nations Organization of Food and Agriculture (FAO) The International Foundation for Agricultural Development (IFAD) The Black Sea Economic Cooperation (BSEC) The International Standardization Organization (ISO) The International Organization of Migration (IOM) 72 T H E R E P U B L I C O F A R M E N I A T O DA Y The International Agency of Atomic Energy (IAEA) The Convention on wetlands of international importance especially as waterfowl habitat (RAMSAR) The International Road Traffic Organization (IRTO) The UN Economic and Social Commission for Asia Pacific (ESCAP) DIPLOMATIC MISSIONS OF FOREIGN STATES ACCREDITED IN THE REPUBLIC OF ARMENIA (AS OF JULY, 1999) COUNTRY ADDRESS TELEPHONE FACSIMILE AFGHANISTAN ALBANIA ALGIERS Moscow, 3/2 Sverchkov per. Moscow, 3 Mytnaya str. Moscow, 1a Krapivinskiy per. ARE Yerevan, Hrazdan hotel 9287278 2307732 2307875 9219563 2307635 2307635 AUSTRALIA AUSTRIA 537304 AT&T 530153 151160 Moscow, 4/10 2991670 Sadovaya-Triumphalnaya str. 2990367 2004218 Moscow,13 Kropotkinskiy per. 9566070 9566170 Vienna, MFA 421-53115 431-5354530 BELGIUM Moscow, 7 4 Stoloviy per. BRAZIL BURUNDI Moscow, 54 Gertsen str. Moscow, 1 Kalugskaya Pl. # 226, 227 CAMBODIA Moscow, 16 Starokonyushenny per. Moscow, 23 Starokonyushenny per. ARGENTINA CANADA CZECH rep. CROATIA 2910531 2916018 2304022 2302564 2916005 2014736 2012115 9566573 9566666 2495882 Honorary Consul 567903 Yerevan, 25/22 Demirjian str. 0-1-401238 Moscow, 12/14 Julius Fuchik str. 2510540/45 Athens 73 2001285 2302009 2302012 ARMENIA CUBA 9 Leontyevskiy per., Moscow 2902882 2906358 CYPRUS Moscow, 51 Nikolskaya STreet 2902154 2913726 2001254 DENMARK Kiev, 45 Vladimirovskaya str. 2293340 2294537 2291831 DPRK 72 Mosfilmovskaya Str., Moscow 1436249 9382195 ETHIOPIA Moscow, 6 Orlovo-Davidovskiy per. 2881616 2801676 2806608 FINLAND Vale-e Asr Ave, Zip 14356, Tehran, Iran 8774985 8889107 FRANCE Yerevan, 8 Grigor Loussavorich str. 561103 AT&T 151095 AT&T 151105 GABON 16 Denezhni Per., Moscow 2411585 2440694 GEORGIA Yerevan, 42 Aram str. 564357 585511 GERMANY Yerevan, 29 Charents Street 523279 569185 524581 AT&T 151112 GHANA Moscow, 14 Skatertny per. 2021870/71 2021890 Yerevan, 28a Charents str. 533081 AT&T 151841/842 2022941 Yerevan, Hrazdan hotel 537103 530051 AT&T 151170 2013601 941305 2202138 293944 GREAT BRITAIN GREECE GUINEA (rep. of) Moscow, 6 Pomerantsev per. THE HOLY SEE Tbilissi, 40 Zhgenti str. AT&T 151807 HUNGARY Moscow, 62 Mosfilmovskaya str. 9382197 1438611/15 1434625 ICELAND Moscow, 54 Mosfilmovskaya str. 9567604 9567605 9567612 INDIA Yerevan INDONESIA Kiev, 14/12 Nikolsko-Botanicheskaya str. 74 2274643 T H E R E P U B L I C O F A R M E N I A T O DA Y IRAN Yerevan, 1 Boudaghian str. 529830 280457 AT&T 151385 233991 IRELAND Moscow, 5 Grokholsky per. 7420901 7420920 ISRAEL Tbilissi, 61 David Amashenebeli str. 951709 ITALY 5 Denezhny per., Moscow JAMAICA Moscow, 7 Koroviy val, # 70-71 JAPAN Moscow, 12 Kalashniy per. JORDAN Tashkent KOREA (rep. of) Moscow, 14 Golubkina str. 2411533 2411534 2539289 2372320 2302102 2918500/01 2023248 9382805/29 9562434 2035087 KYRGIZSTAN Moscow, 64 Bolshaya Ordinka str. 2374601 2374882 LEBANON Yerevan, 7 Vardanants str. 526450 561327 589874 AT&T 151128 MALAYSIA Moscow, 50 Mosfilmovskaya str. MALI 9566817 1471526 Moscow, 11 Novokuznetskaya str. 2310655 MEXICO Moscow, Bolshoi Levchinskiy per. 2015631 2302889 2302042 MOLDOVA Kiev 2952653 2956703 MOROCCO Moscow, 8 Perechistensky per. 2017351 2017395 2017284 2302067 NEPAL Moscow, 14/7 2nd Neopalimovskiy per. 2440215 2440000 NIGERIA Moscow, 13 Kachalova str. 2903783/85 9562825 7972900 2028856 7972904 9562647 THE NETHERLANDS Moscow, 6 Kalashniy per. NORWAY Moscow, 7 Vorovskiy str 9562005 PHILLIPINES Moscow, 6 Karmanitskiy per. 2410563 2413870 PORTUGAL Moscow, 1 Botanicheskiy per. 2803319 75 2809203 ARMENIA PRC Yerevan, 12 Marshal Baghramian ave. 560067 561234 AT&T 151125 AT&T 151143 567427 582463 576557 505237 582463 SLOVAKIA Moscow, 17/19 Julius Fuchik str. 9564920 9732081 SLOVENIA Athens ROMANIA Yerevan RUSSIA Yerevan, 13a Grigor Loussavorich str. SAR Kiev, 7 Chervonoarmeyskaya str. SOVEREIGN MILITARY ORDER OF MALTA Yerevan SPAIN Moscow, 50/8 Gertsen str. 2022161 2881620 2001230 2881757 SWEDEN Moscow, 60 Mosfilmovskaya str. 9561200 9561202 SWITZERLAND Moscow, 2/5 Ogorodnaya Sloboda 9583830 2001728 SYRIA Yerevan, 14 Marshal Baghramian Ave. 569011/2 524028 507421 THAILAND Moscow, 9 Bolshaya Spasskaya Str. UKRAINE Yerevan, 58 Yerznkian str. URUGUAY Moscow, 38 Lomonossovskiy ave. 1430401 2080817 2909659 226951 586856 507303 562436 1430404 Honorary consul Yerevan, 26/9 Ghazar Parbetsi str. 583156 USA Yerevan, 18 Marshal Baghramian ave. 524661 520791 AT&T 151144 ZAMBIA Moscow, 52a Mira av. 76 2885001 2885083 583156 AT&T 151138 T H E R E P U B L I C O F A R M E N I A T O DA Y REPRESENTATIONS OF INTERNATIONAL ORGANIZATIONS (A SAMLING AS OF JULY, 1999) ORGANIZATION ADDRESS TELEPHONE FACSIMILE United Nations Organization Yerevan, 14 Liebknecht str. 566073 560212 151452 151453 UN Development Programme Yerevan, 14 Liebknecht str. 581394 560340 151451 151452 151453 UN Childrens Fund/UNICEF Yerevan, 14 Liebknecht str. 534783 566497 580174 151698 151727 UN Department Yerevan, 14 Liebknecht str. of Public information 560212 151647 151647 UN High Yerevan, 14 Liebknecht str. Commissioner for Refugees 530945 567643 151451 151450 UN Department Yerevan, 14 Liebknecht str. of Humanitarian Affairs 562355 151749 UN Population Fund Yerevan, 14 Liebknecht str. 583194 560340 151451 151452 151453 World Food Programme Yerevan, 14 Liebknecht str. 580538 532358 151572 151725 World Bank Yerevan, 2 Khorhrdarani str. 520992 151686 151787 International Yerevan, Monetary Foundation 13 Melik-Adamyan str. 77 528960 528532 151704 ARMENIA International Yerevan, 96 Jrashat str. Federation of Red Cross 522253 561889 151791 151791 International Yerevan, 41 Orbeli str. Committee of Red Cross 273152 262903 151092 151092 International Yerevan, 14 Liebknecht str. Organization of Migration 585692 151827 151827 World Health Organization 564367 526977 Yerevan, 8 Toumanian str. EMBASSIES OF THE REPUBLIC OF ARMENIA ABROAD (AS OF JULY, 1999) COUNTRY ADDRESS TELEPHONE FACSIMILE Albania Chancery in Athens Algiers Chancery in Cairo ARE 20 Mohammed Mozhar, Cairo, Egypt 202-3424157 202-3424159 202-3424158 Argentina 570 Avda. Pte. Roque Saenz Pena, Piso-3, Buenos Aires 1035 541-345-2051 541-345-1882 541-345-2037 541-345-2467 Austria 12-14/1/6 Neubaugasse, 1070 Wien 431-522-7480 431-522-7479 421-522-7481 Belarus Minsk, 17 Kirova str. 0172-257-153 0172-272-339 0172-223-072 0172-231-321 Belgium 157 France Merje, 1060 Bruxelles 322-346-5667 322-346-3058 322-345-7702 322-346-5667 Brazil chancery in Buenos Aires 5511-2557707 5511-31594151 General Consulate Av Sao Luiz 192-Conj. 1301 CEP 01046-913, Sao Paulo 78 T H E R E P U B L I C O F A R M E N I A T O DA Y Bulgaria 11 20 April str., 1606 Sofia Canada 130 7 Delavaz Avenue, Ottawa, Ontario K2POZ2 Croatia chancery in Athens Cyprus chancery in Athens France 9 rue Viete, 75017, Paris, France F.R. Yugoslavia 3592-526-046 3592-526-046 3592-457-970 3592-457-970 613-234-3710 613-234-2790 613-234-3444 613-234-2860 331-4212-9800 331-4212-9802 331-4212-9803 331-4212-9801 8832-951-723 8832-964286 8832-990-126 8832-985535 49228-9572610 49228-9572615 49228-9572625 chancery in Athens Georgia 4 Tetelashvili str., Tbilissi Germany Viktoriasrtasse 15, Bonn, 53173 Great Britain 25a Cheniston Gardens, London W86TG Greece 159 Syngrou Ave., 1st floor. 17121 Nea Smyrni, Athens 44171-938-4514 44171-938-2595 44171-938-5435 301-934-5727 301-934-5727 Hungary chancery in Vienna India A-153 New Frends, Colony 9111-683-6784 9111-683-3177 Honorary consul: New Delhi 110065 9111-684-7548 Iran 1 Ostad Shahriar (former Arfa Street), Teheran Israel 1 Vitron str. 9722-5833053 Atolot industrial Honorary consul: Zone, Jerusalem, Israel Italy via dei Colli della Farnesina 174 00194 Roma Kazakhstan 480075, Almaty, 578 Seifulin str. Kyrgizstan chancery in Almaty Lebanon 95 Mtayleb, Beirut Luxemburg chancery in Brussels 79 9821-6704838 9821-6704833 9821-6700657 9722-583053 396-329-6638 301-935-2187 396-329-7763 3272-692-932 3272-625-268 3272-692-908 96144-02952 96144-18860 ARMENIA Moldova chancery in Bucharest Morocco chancery in Cairo The Netherlands chancery in Brussels Oman chancery in Cairo Poland 15 Ul Woziwody 02908, Warszawa, Poland 4822-6420645 4899-6420643 PRC 4-1-61, Tayuan, Diplomatic apartments, Beijing, 100600, China 8610-65325677 8610-65325654 Romania 1 rue Caloesti, apt 5, Bucharest 401-321-5679 401-321-5930 401-321-5679 Russia 2 Armyanskiy per., Moscow 10100 095-924-1269 095-924-4535 095-928-3384 Slovakia chancery in Vienna Slovenia chancery in Athens Syria Adnan Maliki, Ibrahim 9631-13732992 Hananu, Damascus, Syria 9631-13711757 Thailand 28 B Lake Rujada Office Complex 2640677 2640678 Honorary consul: 193/117 Rachadapisek Rd., Klong Toey, Prakanong 10110 Bangkok, Thailand Turkmenistan 744012 Ashgabad, 14 Kyoroghly str. 3632-354418 3632-354418 Ukraine 51/50 Artema str., Kiev 044-2164996 044-2166004 Uruguay chancery in Buenos Aires USA 2225 R Street, NW, Washingron D.C. 200008, USA (202) 3191976 (202) 319-2983 (202)3192982 (202) 319-2984 Consulate General: 50 North La Clenga Blvd. 1-310-657-6102 1-310-657-7419 suite 210, Beverly Hills, Los Angeles, California, 90211 Vatican chancery in London 80 T H E R E P U B L I C O F A R M E N I A T O DA Y PERMANENT MISSIONS TO INTERNATIONAL ORGANIZATIONS (AS OF JULY, 1999) ADDRESS TELEPHONE FACSIMILE UN 119 East 36th Street, New-York, NY, 10016 1212-686-9079 1212-686-3934 UN (Geneva) 64 Route de Troinex, CH-1256, Troinex, Geneve, Suisse 4122-300-4500 4122-300-4515 OSCE 12-14/1/16 Neubaugasse, 431-522-7479 1070 Wien 431-522-7480 421-522-7481 European Union 157 Franz Merjay, 1060 Brussels 322-346-5667 322-346-3058 322-345-7702 322-346-5667 CIS Minsk, 17 Kirova str. 0172-257-153 0172-293-072 0172-272-339 0172-261-944 NATO 157 Franz Merjay, 1060 Brussels 322-346-5667 322-346-3058 322-346-5667 Council of Europe Strasbourg 333-882-427-17 333-882-427-17 81 ECONOMY The economic profile of Armenia had been forming through many centuries. The country has gone through all respective stages of economic development: from handicraft manufacture to modern industry. By the time of proclamation of independence Armenia was predominantly an industrial republic with an advanced scientific and technological potential. Following the acquisition of independence Armenia embarked on a development phase that may be considered transitional. Radical transformations are underway in the economy that pursue the objective of establishment of market relations. Such a transition would present quite a challenge for any country. In Armenia these natural problems are further aggravated by the consequences of the disastrous earthquake of 1988 and the complications due to the regional tension: the blockade, armed conflict etc. Industry In these circumstances a need emerged to identify new, predominantly local sources of raw materials, take measures for the mitigation of the energy crisis, to reorient the production lines of certain enterprises. At the same time the process of privatisation of the industry commenced. Efforts were undertaken to increase the reliability of the Armenian nuclear power plant, and in 1996 it was recommissioned. The government of the republic undertook measures to receive longterm loans from international financial and banking institutions. Thanks to the measures taken, beginning from 1994 inspiring shifts became noticeable in industry: the After the collapse of the Soviet Union the state of the Armenian industry deteriorated drastically, since the well-functioning economic links that had been in place for decades no longer delivered. It became obvious that the majority of Armenian industrial enterprises does not have a closed loop production cycle and is dependant on imported materials or components. In 199091 the industrial output plunged, a number of enterprises de facto stopped and unemployment emerged. The generation of electrical energy declined, since the Armenian nuclear power plant was shut down following the earthquake. 82 E CO N O MY expedient to promote those sectors that have relatively low energy consumption, can boost employment and take advantage of the powerful scientific and technological potential of the country. Along with the development of market relations only those sectors will prosper, whose products secure themselves a niche in the world market. The food processing industry (wines, cognacs, canned food, mineral waters, pastries etc.), the light industry (textiles, footwear) and building materials production all answer these criteria. Machine tool production also has good prospects for future development: lathes, instrument making, electronics, computing machines etc. The principal direction of the development of the chemical industry should be the so called small chemistry: the production of household chemicals, paints etc. The existence in the republic of an academic potential allows to develop the pharmaceutical and bioengineering industries. volume of industrial output slowly began to rise, part of the enterprises adjusted to the new environment and independently began The Armenian nuclear power plant. Control panel looking for resources and markets, steps were taken to introduce competitive product lines. Taking into the account the peculiarities of the development of the republican industry and the accumulated experience, as well as the advanced level of the specialists and workers in the industry it becomes apparent that it would be Agriculture The land in Armenia was privatised immediately upon acquiring independence: the farmers regained possession of their The cognac distillery in Yerevan 83 ARMENIA necting to Russia through Georgia. In these conditions the role of highway and especially air routes grew exponentially. Between 1991 and 1996 the Armenian authorities succeeded to maintain the operating condition of the main thoroughfares of the country, as well as to construct the Goris-Stepanakert highway, to upgrade the road leading from Shirak to Javakhk in neighbouring Georgia, to build a bridge across Arax river that connects Armenia to Iran. The air transport is used to carry passengers to other countries, as well as to import most of the freight into the country. Armenia is linked by air routes to a number of cities in the FSU, Europe and Asia. The Yerevan Zvartnots airport has become an important international node. Its significance shall grow further with the commissioning of the new cargo terminal. Yerevan has another airport Erebouni, there are airports in Gyumri, Goris etc. lands. The livestock and a substantial part of agricultural equipment were privatised shortly thereafter. First steps have been taken towards the establishment of agricultural farms. Nevertheless stalling with the privatisation of food processing industry and the sectors catering to farming needs resulted in a situation where the country still does not have established adequate structures for technical servicing of farms and the sale of produce. The creation of such structures as well as the resolution of an important problem in the Armenian context: irrigation, shall allow to increase the productivity of farmers and ensure a plethora of food. Transport Prior to the proclamation of independence Armenia was linked with countries near and far by rail, highway and air traffic. From the beginning of the 1990s, in view of the tension in the region, the Republic of Armenia found itself in a blockade: the rail and highway communication between Armenia and Azerbaijan ceased to operate, while the Georgian-Abkhaz conflict strangled the traffic on the railway con- Trade After the acquisition of independence Armenia opened up to a possibility to independently 84 E CO N O MY times. An unwanted phenomenon emerged for the Armenian people: emigration. In the period mentioned approximately 600 thousand people left Armenia, these were predominantly intellectuals who resettled in Russia, the USA, other countries. Not all of them succeeded in finding employment adequate to their profession and ensuring a proper standard of living. The unswerving Armenian people, overcoming all hurdles, remained faithful to the objective it had chosen and carried on with the construction of the new society. The republic received substantial material assistance from various international foundations, benevolent organizations, Diaspora institutions. This assistance has substantially alleviated the condition of the most needy parts of the population. Between 1995 and 1997 the emigration declined and an inverse trend emerged: the return of Armenians to their homeland. The positive shifts in the economy of these years inspire a hope that the Republic of Armenia can overcome the precarious circumstances, face the grave challenges and ensure the prosperity of the people. participate in world trade. A negative foreign trade balance has emerged, since the republic is yet unable to ensure the competitiveness of its products. The principal way to overcome this situation is the development of the economy. For the population of Armenia that had for decades been accustomed to food and consumer goods shortage, the abundance of food in the post-independence period was for some time unusual. As in other countries that have once undergone the period of initial accumulation of capital, in Armenia too the first investments were made into trade. Food and consumer goods are imported into Armenia from Russia, Iran, Syria, the United Arab Emirates and other countries. The social sector The transition period, calling for radical transformations in the economy and social relations domain, can not remain painless for all strata of the population. The society in Armenia became stratified, part of the population ended up in dire social straits. Between 199194 the newly created republic went through a difficult period, especially in winter 85 E D U C AT I O N The modern educational system of the Republic of Armenia allows to successfully resolve the issues of education and upbringing of the growing generation, the preparation of highly qualified specialists for the economy, culture and management. Leaning on the accomplishments of the preceding periods, the mandatory education of children and a wide network of higher educational institutions, the current target in the education sector is to ensure the development of a genuinely national school, to introduce in the schools and higher educational institutions contemporary methods and materials, to preserve the high intellectual potential characteristic of Armenia. development. The search for new ways of improvement of the system of popular education carries on. Tangible changes have taken place in the higher education sector. The principles of university education are being introduced. In a number of universities and institutes research centres and labs have been established, thanks to which the students now have an opportunity to pursue academic research. The rights of higher educational institutions in the development of curricula have been expanded, the same is true of the preparation of the faculty and the establishment of relations with foreign educational and academic institutions. The Yerevan State University is the oldest contemporary higher educational institution of the republic. It was founded in 1919. Through approximately eight decades of its existence the university has prepared tens of thousands of highly qualified specialists who had worked and still work in the economy, the structures of culture and state governance of Armenia. Presently (1997) the university has 8.5 thousand students. The university has 18 departments preparing specialists in 100 professions. The university has a branch in the town of Ijevan, a number of research institutes and laboratories including the centre of Armenology, The principal unit of the secondary education is the ten-year school. There are about 400 ten-year schools with 584 thousand students in Armenia today. After the acquisition of independence great work has been done in revising the curricula and compilation of new textbooks. A number of schools have been transformed into gymnasiums and colleges with a professional slant, which allows to establish a more comfortable environment for the identification of student inclinations and their 86 EDUCATION A network of pedagogical education has been created and is in operation in the republic. It is represented by the Khachatour Abovian Armenian state pedagogical institute (Yerevan), the Yerevan Valeri Bryusov state institute of foreign languages, the Gyumri Mikael Nal- the chair of arts under the aegis of UNESCO. The university maintains links with the universities of a number of countries, exchanges faculty and students with them. The Yerevan State Engineering University was founded in 1932. Presently it has 4 thousand students Yerevan State University. Central building bandian state pedagogical institute and the Vanadzor state pedagogical institute. These institutes prepare for the schools of the republic teachers of the mother language and literature, foreign languages, a wide spectrum of humanities and natural disciplines. The Armenian state institute of physical culture in Yerevan prepares school teachers of physical training. The Yerevan state institute of the peoples economy and the Armenian Agricultural Academy (the resulting entity of a merger of the former Yerevan Agricultural and Zooveterinary Institutes) prepare specialists for in its 10 departments. The Engineering University was the first to embark on the reforms in higher education. It offers MA degrees and courses in a number of social and political disciplines. The University has four branches: in Gyumri, Vanadzor, Goris and Kapan. In 1989 two construction departments splintered from the Armenian state engineering University and became the foundation for the establishment of the Yerevan Architectural Construction University, that prepares specialists in architecture, industrial construction and civil engineering and the technology of construction. 87 ARMENIA students and graduates of the Institute of fine arts organize annual exhibitions of their work, they participate in various international competitions and exhibitions. The American University of Armenia functions in Yerevan since 1991, it prepares specialists for the economy in conditions of the development of market relations. In the first half of the 1990s a number of private universities and institutes have been founded in the republic, some of which (Hrachia Ajarian, Gladzor, David Anhakht) already enjoy sustainable reputation. Having relatively low enrollment, these institutions react faster to the demands of the society, they create new departments and divisions and in a number of cases they prepare specialists in professions that are unavailable in public educational institutions. In 199697 educational year there were 70 private universities and institutes in Armenia with the enrollment of 20 thousand students. different sectors of the economy of the Republic of Armenia. The significance of these two institutions has grown in view of the transition of the country towards market relations. The Institute of the peoples economy, in particular, has introduced the disciplines of marketing and management. The striving of the youth to enroll in the Yerevan Mkhitar Heratsi state medical university is strong as usual. The university has GP, pediatric, dental, sanitary-hygienic and pharmaceutical departments. The culture and arts sectors are catered to by the specialists prepared in the Yerevan Komitas state conservatory (founded in 1923), the Yerevan state institute of theatre arts and the Yerevan state institute of fine arts. The structure of the conservatory includes the Tchaikovsky musical secondary school, the operatic studio and an amateur/folk music centre. Many students and graduates of the conservatory have successfully participated in international musical competitions. The 88 SCIENCE Until the end of the 1980s the development of different branches of science in Armenia scored most apparent successes and the results of some lines of research were of the world level. was commissioned in Yerevan. This branch of research was led by the member of the academy Artem Alikhanian. Thanks to the development of several new directions in physics (radiation physics, quantum electronics) it became possible to establish new sectors of industry: the Research in theoretical and applied mathematics has resulted in The building of the Praesidium of the National Academy of Sciences in Yerevan the creation of an Armenian mathematical school with its renowned representatives Artashes Shahinian, Mkhitar Jrbashian, Sergey Mergelian. Their findings contributed to the development of cybernetics in Armenia and the establishment of a new line of production of computing machines. Substantial success has been recorded in the physics of elementary particles. In 1967 a particle collider radiotechnical and the electronics industries. Research in astrophysics has won world acclaim. The Byurakan astrophysical observatory, headed for many years by the member of the academy Victor Hambartsoumian, became a recognized centre of the astrophysical science. The Armenian astrophysicists have discovered new stellar systems: the stellar associations, they have proven 89 ARMENIA that the formation of stars is an ongoing process in our days. Research in chemistry and biology has to a certain extent contributed to the creation in Armenia of tries, that were called upon to resolve specific technical and technological issues, to contribute towards scientific and technical progress. Substantial success has been achieved in Armenology. The multifarious problems of Armenology are studied at a number of institutes of the National Academy of Science: of History, Archaeology and Ethnography, Oriental studies, Literature, Language, Philosophy and Law, as well as in the Matenadaran, The Historical Museum, the Museum of literature and arts, at the social science chairs of higher educational institutions. The Armenian historians have identified and introduced into academic circulation a huge body of factual material pertaining to all periods of the history of the Armenian people, these materials possess immutable objective value. The axial problems of the history of the Armenian people became the subject of fundamental studies: the ethnogenesis of the Armenian people, the patterns and peculiarities of its historical development, the history of the national liberation struggle, of the Armenian Question, of Armenian migratory settlements and the Diaspora. The critical texts of the works of Armenian medieval historians have been published, as well as of foreign sources that contain information on Armenia and the Armenians. The Great telescope of the Byurakan observatory new sectors of industry: the pharmaceutics and microbiology. There are several agricultural scientific research labs in the republic: of Viticulture, winemaking and fruitgrowing, of Agrochemistry and hydroponics, of Economics and organization of agriculture and a few others. Significant experience has been accumulated in increasing the fertility of grapes and fruits cultivated in Armenia, in the creation of new varieties, improvement of the technology of winemaking, development of new methods of land cultivation. Between the 1960s and the 1980s a great number of scientific research institutes, research and development laboratories, design and technological bureaus were created within the structure of machine building, chemical and electrotechnical indus- 90 SCIENCE Presently a search is underway in the republic for new forms of organization of science. There is a tendency to increase the role of higher educational institutions in the development of academic research. The National Academy of science and its institutes have received the right to independently determine the directions of research, to prepare and train personnel, the establish new academic divisions etc. Two line academies have been established: the Engineering and the Agricultural Academies. The links with the scientific community of the Diaspora have expanded. A number of renowned foreign Armenian scholars have been elected to the National Academy of science. The consolidation of the academic potential of the entire nation becomes a possibility of the future. The notable positive shifts allow to accelerate the development of the national programme for the advancement of science in Armenia. The results of archaeological excavations carried out in Armenia have won international academic recognition, these include monuments of the Urartian, Hellenistic and early medieval periods. The centuries old history of Armenian literature, its mainstream literary schools, literary liaisons and other problems are dealt with in the studies of literary historians. The legacy of the classical Armenian authors has been studied, their works have been published, the place of Armenian literature within the world literary process has been defined. Leaning on the prolific traditions of the past the study of the development patterns of the Armenian language was carried on. Works have been elaborated on the grammar, dialectology, lexicography and other problems, a great number of various dictionaries have been published. In the domain of art history and criticism works have been created that are dedicated to Armenian music, theatre, fine arts, architecture etc. The interest of the world scientific community towards the heritage of the Armenian people in arts has increased significantly. 91 C U LT U R E A N D S P O R T S Armenian culture is deeply rooted in the depth of millennia, many of the values it has created have enriched the civilization of the world. Since times immemorial Armenian culture has come into contact with both Western and Eastern cultures, getting exposure to the social progress. The Armenian national culture has accommodated Christian ethics and the criteria of spiritual values that have determined the general makeup of the Armenian nation. Along with religion and the mother tongue the Armenian national culture is an important factor in the survival of the Armenian people, its assertion in the contemporary world. ways received wide public response, they have contributed to the formation of the national-liberation mentality of Armenians. The historical events that have taken place in Armenia in the 1990s have mostly been reflected in the Armenian periodicals. Armenian literature has yet to compass what had transpired, the ascent in the national-liberation movement that culminated with the acquisition of independence and the liberation of Artsakh. There are a number of literary museums and memorial houses functioning in Armenia. The Yeghishe Charents Museum of literature and Arts (1 Aram Street, Yerevan) was founded in 1953. The museum preserves manuscripts, letters and documents of Armenian authors and artists. The museum organizes exhibitions and academic sessions. Literature With the creation of the Armenian script in the 5th century the literature that possessed rich oral tradition prior to that embarked on a new stage of its development. Within the past centuries Armenian literature has gone a long way, reflecting in its works the historical events in the life of the Armenian people. The best works of Armenian literature of different periods have al- The museum has several branches: in Yerevan the Memorial house of novelist Derenik Demirjian (Abovian Str. 29). in Gyumri the Memorial house of poet Avetik Issahakian, the Museum of poet Hovhannes Shiraz. 92 C U LT U R E A N D S P O R T S house of the authors father. A new building was erected for it in 1978, which houses the main exposition. The authors sculpture (by P. TerManoukian, 1913) is in the courtyard of the museum. The Memorial house of poet Hovhannes Toumanian (40 Moskovian Str., Yerevan) was founded in The Hovhannes Toumanian memorial house in Vagharshapat the Memorial house of poet Hovhannes Hovhannesian, in Goris the Memorial house of novelist Axel Bakunts, in Ashtarak the Memorial house of novelist Perj Proshian, in the village of Dsekh the Memorial house of poet Hovhannes Toumanian. The Yeghishe Charents memorial house. The poets study 1953. The first floor of the museum houses a recreation of the poets apartment in Tiflis, where he had lived the last years of his life. The Avetik Issahakian memorial house The Memorial house of poet Avetik Issahakian (32 Zarobian Str., Yerevan) opened in 1963 in the house where the poet had spent the years between 1947 and 1957. The The Memorial house of novelist Khachatour Abovian (Yerevan, Kanaker) was founded in 1938 in the 93 ARMENIA study, the bedroom and the living room have been preserved. to the world thanks to the works of Komitas, Alexandre Spendiarian, Aram Khachatourian, Arno Babajanian and other composers, as well as the performances of the best orchestras and performers of Armenia: the State Choir of Armenia, the Komitas Quartet, the Tagharan ancient music orchestra, the Armenian Folk Song and Dance Ensemble and others. The many hardships suffered by the republic in the transition period notwithstanding, the musical scene of the country is thriving. Even in the hardest winter months of 19911993 the symphony orchestra of the National Philharmonium carried on with its concerts, new performances were staged at the Alexandre Spendiarian Opera and Ballet Theatre, the Paronian Musical Comedy Theatre, renowned singers went on tours etc. The Memorial house of poet Yeghishe Charents (17 Mashtots Ave., Yerevan) opened in 1964 in the apartment where the poet had spent the last years of his life. The study of Yeghishe Charents has been recreated. The museum maintains a permanent memorial room in the city of Charentsavan named after the poet. The Memorial house of novelist Stefan Zorian (24 Zorian Str., Vanadzor) opened in 1988 in the house where the writer had lived from 1964 to 1967. The Memorial house of poet Parooyr Sevak (the village of Zangakatoun, province of Ararat) was founded in the poets native settlement. Every year on the poets birthday, July 17, the museum holds a Sevak poetry day. The tombstone of the poet is in the courtyard of the house. All of the memorial houses preserve the manuscripts, letters, memorabilia, documents and photographs pertaining to the lives and work of the authors concerned. There are several major musical centres in Armenia, including: The Alexandre Spendiarian State Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre (36 Toumanian Str., Yerevan) opened in 1933. Through more than six decades a great number of operas and ballets from the Armenian and European repertoire were staged in this theatre. Music Armenian music has gone a long way from musical folklore to the different genres of contemporary music. The accomplishments of Armenian music were exposed 94 C U LT U R E A N D S P O R T S The building of the Alexandre Spendiarian Opera and Ballet Theatre fully participated in international competitions and festivals, toured in foreign countries. The Philharmonium has a branch in Gyumri (since 1938). The A. Paronian State Musical Comedy Theatre (4 Khorhrdaranain Str., Yerevan) opened in 1942. The repertoire includes national and European vaudevilles. In 1992 the theatre received a new building. The following are the principal concert halls of the country: The Armenian State Philharmonium was established in 1932. It is a blanket organization for a number of entities: the State Choir of Armenia, the Armenian Folk Song and Dance Ensemble, the Symphony Orchestra of Armenia, the Popular Music Orchestra of Armenia, The Armenian Folk Instruments Orchestra, the Komitas Quartet, the Goossan Song Ensemble and others. Many orchestras as well as soloists of the Philharmonium have success- The Small concert hall of the Philharmonium (2 Abovian Str., Yerevan) operates since 1921. It has been the principal concert hall of the country for many decades. The Aram Khachatourian Great concert hall of the Armenian Philharmonium (46 Mashtots Ave., Yerevan) operates since 1953. It is the principal concert hall of the country. 95 ARMENIA The Memorial House of Alexandre Spendiarian (21 Nalbandian Str., Yerevan) opened in 1967 in the building where the composer had spent the last years of his life. The museum houses the study of the composer, his personal items, many documents etc. The museum organizes concerts on its premises. The Sports and Concert Complex (1 Leningradian Str., Yerevan) operates since 1984. The complex is The Memorial House of Aram Khachatourian (3 Zarobian Str., Yerevan) opened in 1984. The museum includes the house itself (built in 1947), the exhibition hall, a resource centre and a concert hall. Materials are exhibited that reflect the life and work of the composer. The Aram Khachatourian Great concert Hall during a concert predominantly used for popular music concerts. The Komitas Chamber Music House (1 Issahakian Str., Yerevan) operates since 1977. The cosy auditorium of this building is loved by Yerevanians. It is used for the performances of chamber orchestras, quartets, soloists as well as pipe organ concerts. The halls of the Union of Composers and Musicologists of Armenia (25 Demirjian Str., Yerevan) and the Memorial House of Aram Khachatourian are also used for solo performances. The concert hall of the Retreat of the Union of Composers of Armenia (Dilijan) is in operation since 1978. The Komitas Chamber music House. Tagharan ensemble performing There are several memorial houses of renowned composers in the Republic of Armenia. 96 C U LT U R E A N D S P O R T S Fine arts permanent exposition the Gallery holds provisional exhibitions (thematic, personal etc.). The National Art Gallery has branches in Gyumri, Gavar, Hrazdan, Martouni, Yeghegnadzor and Jermuk. Throughout centuries immutable values have been created by Armenians in fine arts: ancient sculptures, frescoes, brilliant samples of medieval illuminated manuscripts, paintings of the contemporary period. The world famous artist Martiros Sarian has left a great impact on the development of modern Armenian painting. Within the last decades the following have created their best works: painters Minas Avetissian, Hakob Hakobian, Grigor Khanjian and others, sculptors Nikoghos Nikoghossian, Levon Tokmajian, Artashes Hovsepian, Ara Haroutiounian and others. Armenian visual arts were always characterized by a diversity of styles and directions, perceptiveness towards most recent world trends, boldness of approaches. The Museum of Modern Armenian Art (7 Mashtots Str., Yerevan) was founded in 1972. The works of Armenian painters and sculptors of different generations and directions are exhibited here. The Museum of Folk Art (64 Abovian str., Yerevan) was founded in 1978. Its exposition offers an understanding of the different sectors of Armenian folk art from the oldest times to our days. It exhibits jewellery, carpets, woodwork, ceramics, bone carvings, works of naif painters etc. The museum has branches in Dilijan (province of Tavoush) and Vardenis (province of Gegharkounik). The Museum of Russian Art (38 Issahakian str., Yerevan) was founded in 1984. It houses the collection of the famous doctor A. Abrahamian (Moscow), donated by him to Armenia. There is a number of art galleries and museums in Armenia that preserve and exhibit rich collections of fine art. The Childrens Art Gallery (13 Abovian str., Yerevan) is a structural unit of the Republican Centre of Aesthetic Education of Children. It was founded in 1970. It is a unique museum type institution that contributes greatly to the aesthetic education of the growing generation. The National Art Gallery of Armenia (2 Abovian Str., Yerevan) was founded in 1921. It has sections of Armenian, Russian and Western European art. The Armenian art collection exhibited in the Gallery is the richest in the world. Apart from its 97 ARMENIA Yerevan) is in operation since 1977. The exhibition mostly covers the works of the last years of the artists life. There is also a museum of Minas Avetissian in the native village of the artist, Jajour (province of Shirak). A dedicated building was constructed to house it. The Memorial Studio of Artist Gevorg Grigorian (Giotto) (45a Mashtots Ave., Yerevan) is in operation since 1990. The museum exhibits a substantial part of the paintings of the artist of the Tiflis and Yerevan periods. One of the halls of the National Gallery of Armenia The Martiros Sarian Memorial House (3 Sarian str., Yerevan) is in operation since 1967 and was built next to the studio of the artist. The studio is presently incorporated into the exposition. The Museum of Sculptor Yervand Kochar (39/12 Mashtots Ave., Yerevan) was opened in 1984. The museum exhibits the paintings created by Yervand Kochar in different periods, as well as scale models of his monumental sculptures and other materials. The interior of the Martiros Sarian memorial house The Memorial House of Artist Hakob Kojoyan (62/7 Pushkin str., Yerevan) is in operation since 1973. The artists studio is a part of the museum. The Museum of sculptor Khoren Ter Haroutian (Vagharshapat) is in operation since 1995. It exhibits the works of different years donated by the USA-resident sculptor. The Memorial House of Sculptor Ara Sargsian (62/7 Pushkin str., Yerevan) is in operation since 1973. The works of the sculptor pertaining to different periods are exhibited. Theatre Theatre is known in Armenia since times immemorial. Folk pageants, open air spectacles, exposure to classical drama, the The Studio of Artist Minas Avetissian (29, Nalbandian Str., 98 C U LT U R E A N D S P O R T S The Yerevan Hrachia Ghaplanian Drama Company (28 Avetik Issahakian Str., Yerevan) was founded in 1967 upon the initiative of director Hrachia Ghaplanian, after whom it is now named. The theatre has staged many plays of the classical and modern Armenian repertoire, as well as of contemporary European playwrights. Through three decades of its existence the theatre has secured itself a place among the leading companies of Armenia. first amateur companies and, finally, the creation of a professional theatre these are the milestone of the development of Armenian theatre. Today, the countrys great difficulties of general socio-economic nature notwithstanding, the theatrical life of Armenia is still vibrant. Presently over three dozen theatres operate in Armenia, and the following are the most significant among them: The Yerevan Chamber Theatre (58 Mashtots Str., Yerevan) opened in 1982. Its repertoire includes predominantly plays of contemporary Armenian authors, mostly comedies. The Armenian Soundoukian State Academic Drama Theatre (6 Grigor Loussavorich Str., Yerevan) is the oldest contemporary theatre in Armenia. It opened in 1922. Within the last three quarters of a century the theatre has staged almost all classical Armenian plays as well as many plays of Russian and West European authors. The theatre is widely acclaimed as one of the best interpreters of Shakespearean tragedies. Throughout the existence of the theatre several generations of actors have succeeded each other, the best among them have left their mark in the history of Armenian stage. The Armenian school of directing was hatched in this theatre. There are two sculptures at the entrance of the theatre: of playwright Gabriel Soundoukian and of Pepo, the protagonist of his play Pepo. The Yerevan Konstantin Stanislavskiy Russian Drama Theatre (7 Abovian Str., Yerevan) opened in 1937. In six decades Russian classical and contemporary plays, as well as those from Armenian and European repertoire were staged in this theatre. The Yerevan Young Spectator Theatre (3 Moskovian Str., Yerevan) opened in 1929. It stages plays by Armenian and European authors. The Yerevan Hovhannes Toumanian State Puppet Theatre (4 SayatNova Str., Yerevan) opened in 1935. It has stages numerous childrens plays that enjoy steady success. The Gyumri Vardan Ajemian State Drama Theatre was founded in 1928. It is named after its director 99 ARMENIA Vardan Ajemian, who has worked in the theatre for almost two decades. Many outstanding actors have begun their careers in this theatre and subsequently moved to the capital. The repertory includes plays by Armenian and European authors. The Gyumri S. Alikhanian State Puppet Theatre was founded in 1935. It is the first contemporary puppet theatre in Armenia. In 1984 it was the first in Armenia to stage a marionette performance. There are state drama companies in a number of other cities of Armenia: Vanadzor, Artashat, Kapan, Goris and elsewhere. Within the recent years several private theatres were created in Armenia, the most popular among which are the following: The Hamazgain Theatre opened in 1991 in Yerevan upon the initiative of actor Sos Sargsian, who became the artistic director of the new company. The Metro Theatre opened in 1992 in Yerevan. The Nork Youth Theatre opened in 1987 in Yerevan. The Arion Theatre opened in 1994 in Yerevan. These companies mostly consist of young actors and directors that boldly address contemporary themes and look for new ways of artistic expression. Cinematography In the beginning of the 1920s the Armenfilm film studio was created in the country, Hamo Beknazarian became its leading director. The most successful among the movies of different years were Pepo (the first Armenian sound film, director Hamo Beknazarian, 1935), The Triangle (1967, director Henrik Malian), We and our mountains (1969, director Henrik Malian), The colour of pomegranate (1969, director Sergey Parajanov), Our childhood tango (1985, director Albert Mkrtchian) and others. In the first half of the 1990s, the significant difficulties of the country-wide economic crisis notwithstanding, the Armenian moviemakers have created a few successful films. The films of director Vigen Chaldranian The voice of one crying out (1991) and director Arman Manarian Comrade Panjouni (1993) have won international prizes. Among documentaries the films of Artavazd Peleshian Life and The End filmed in 1993 stand out, as well as the serial of director Hovik Hakhverdian Matenadaran (project commenced in 1983) and others. The recently acquired creative 100 C U LT U R E A N D S P O R T S freedom is the safeguard of new accomplishments of Armenian cinematography. The interior of the Sergey Parajanov museum The Museum of Sergey Parajanov (1516 Dzoragyugh, Yerevan) opened in 1991. The collection includes drawings and sketches of the wonderful film director, documents and materials pertaining to Parajanovs films, clippings from the world press on his art, recounting the hard life and work of the master. Sports Sport is loved in Armenia, although only a fraction of the population goes in for it. Almost everybody else is an ardent fan that jealously follows the appearances of Armenian athletes at different competitions or cheers (at the arenas or by their TV sets) during football matches. The annals of Armenian sport contain many bright pages pertaining to major accomplishments of the representatives of Armenia at the most prestigious competitions. The names of famous olympic champions of different years: gymnasts Hrant Shahinian, Albert Azarian, boxer Vladimir Yengibarian, pentathlonist Igor Novikov, weightlifter Youri Vardanian and others are known not only to the fans of the elder generation, but also to young athletes that hone their skills in the schools headed by these masters. The Yerevan Chess House is named after the twice world champion chess player Tigran Petrossian, the statue of this grand master is next to the entrance of the Chess House. The feat of the Yerevan Ararat football team in 1973 became a legend, they took the USSR football cup and won the national champions title within the same year. Sports in Armenia is not only history to look back at. With the creation of sovereign Armenia the Armenian athletes now have an opportunity to independently participate in major international events. In 1996 the Armenian national team for the first time ever appeared at the Summer Olympics in Atlanta (USA) and won two medals (gold and silver), sharing the 4145th ranking as 101 ARMENIA a team. This is incontestable success, especially when one considers the total number of participating coun- The Chess House in Yerevan tries: 197. In the same year the Armenian male team shared the 57th places (among 114 national teams) at the World Chess Olympiad in Yerevan, affirming its reputation as one of the strongest chess teams of the world. Armenias womens chess team took the 20th place (from among 71 teams). The Armenian national football team participates in the World and European Cups and, although it so far has not registered great success, its faithful fans like to believe that the former glory of Armenian football shall once again come center stage. The republic has the necessary premises for the development of different sports: over 20 stadiums, 100 football fields, around 80 swimming pools, 800 basketball and 1,000 volleyball courts, over 1,300 intramural arenas. The major sports facilities are the Hrazdan stadium in Yerevan (seats 70,000), the Republican stadium in Yerevan, which is The Hrazdan stadium in Yerevan 102 YEREVAN LANDMARKS 1. Monument Mother Armenia in the Victory park 2. Memorial complex Armenia (Cascade) 3. The Youth Palace 4. Zoological gardens 5. The Mesrob Mashtots Matenadaran 6. Mesrob Mashtots monument 7. The American University of Armenia 8. The sports and concert complex 9. The museum of the Armenian Genocide 10. The monument to the victims of Genocide 11. The Chancery of the President of the Republic 12. The Praesidium of the National Academy of Science 13. The memorial house of poet Avetik Issahakian 14. The memorial house of composer Aram Khachatourian 15. The National Assembly of the Republic of Armenia 16. Museum of Russian art 17. Armenian cognac store 18. The Yerevan Drama Company 19. Nairi hotel 20. Lower station of cable road 21. Monument to Avetik Issahakian 22. Museum of sculptor Yervand Kochar 23. Monument to architect Alexandre Tamanian 24. Museum of poet Hovhannes Toumanian 25. Sourb Hovhannes church (18th century) 26. Dvin hotel 27. Central post office 28. The memorial house of painter Martiros Sarian 29. Sourb Astvatsatsin church (Zoravor, 7th17th centuries) 30. Museum of history of Yerevan 31. Monument to Martiros Sarian 32. Monument to Hovhannes Toumanian 33. A. Spendiarian opera and ballet theatre and the A. Khachatourian Great concert hall 34. Monument to composer Alexandre Spendiarian 35. Monument to composer Komitas 36. Katoghike church (13th century) 37. Museum-studio of painter Minas Avetissian 38. Monument to poet Mikael Nalbandian 39. Monument to 5th century historian Movses Khorenatsi 103 YEREVAN LANDMARKS PAGE 104 YEREVAN LANDMARKS PAGE 104 ARMENIA 40. Yerevan State University 41. Tigran Petrossian Chess House 42. Monument to poet Yeghishe Charents 43. Ani hotel 44. Childrens Aesthetic Centre 45. Art salon 46. Memorial house of Yeghishe Charents 47. Childrens railway 48. Museum of film director Sergey Parajanov 49. Hrazdan central stadium 50. Yerevan cognac distillery 51. Sourb Sargis church (15th20th centuries) 52. Central farmers market 53. Modern Art Museum 54. Old Yerevan quarter (20th century) 55. K. Stanislavsky Russian drama theatre 56. Memorial house of Alexandre Spendiarian 57. Hamazgain theatre 58. National Art Gallery of Armenia 59. Government house 60. State history museum of Armenia 61. Small concert hall of the philharmonium 62. Armenia hotel 63. A. Paronian musical comedy theatre 64. Sevan hotel 65. Monument to revolutionary Stepan Shahoumian 66. Shirak hotel 67. Gay Jami mosque (18th century) 68. Central bus terminal 69. Monument to statesman Alexandre Miasnikian 70. G. Soundoukian Armenian state drama theatre 71. Erebouni hotel 72. Monument to composer Armen Tigranian 73. The republican stadium 74. Monument to the hero of the national liberation struggle Vardan Mamikonian 75. Monument to Russian author Alexandre Griboyedov 76. Central department store 77. Ayrarat film theatre 78. Circus 79. Komitas park. The national Pantheon 106 C U LT U R E A N D S P O R T S The Sports and concert complex in Yerevan now under reconstruction and will become the first roofed stadium in Armenia, the Sports and Concert Complex in Yerevan, where a diversity of major athletic events may be held. There is a big sports facility in Tsaghkadzor including training halls and swimming pools, this alpine lo- cation is also used for winter skiing. Water sports develop on lake Sevan and a number of major reservoirs. The Republic of Armenia has acceded to a number of international sports federations. Links are being established with the sports clubs and unions of the Armenian Diaspora. 107 T H E C A P I TA L O F T H E R E P U B L I C O F A R M E N I A Y E R E VA N The exposure of our guests to Armenia usually begins with the capital city of Yerevan. We shall help them along by providing essential information on the history, the present and the sights of the capital city of the Republic of Armenia. Some background Yerevan is one of the oldest cities of the world, a peer of Rome, Carthage and Samarkand. Unlike many other cities, the date of the foundation of which is moot or, in the best doubt. During archaeological excavations in the 1950s on the Arin Berd hill within Yerevan city limits a cuneiform inscription was uncovered, carved on a rock slate upon the orders of king Argishti I in 782 B.C. The inscription affirms that king A panoramic view of the capital of the Republic of Armenia Yerevan case, is obscured by myths and legends and thus subject to guesswork, Yerevan has a birth certificate, the authenticity of which is beyond Argishti I ...built this mighty fortress and called it Erebouni... Yerevan derives its name from the fortress Erebouni. 108 YERAVAN Within subsequent centuries Yerevan was seldom referred to in Armenian and foreign sources, although it is known that the city was became the capital of the Republic of Armenia. Modern day Yerevan takes up 210 square kilometers, its population is 1.249 thousand people, that is over one third of the countrys total population lives in the capital. Yerevan is a major industrial city, a centre of social, political and cultural life of the Republic of Armenia. Relatively few buildings have survived in Yerevan that date back farther than the 20th century, many Old buildings in Yerevan (19th century) on a trade roads junction and played a visible role in the economy of the country. The significance of Yerevan began to increase when in the beginning of the 16th century it became the seat of the Iranian governor-general (of the khanate since 17th century). Following the accession of Eastern Armenia to Russia Yerevan became the centre of the newly formed Armenian Oblast, later the Yerevan Province. Since becoming a provincial centre Yerevans development accelerated and it acquired European features. In 1918 Yerevan Old buildings in Yerevan (19th century) of the older structures were of no architectural relevance and were demolished in the course of the reconstruction of the city. Several two or three storeyed houses in downtown 109 ARMENIA Yerevan are an exception, particularly on Abovian (former Astafian, the main street of old Yerevan) and Hanrapetoutyan (Republic) streets. The capital developed along the master plan of the city, elaborated in the 1920s by the outstanding Armenian architect Alexandre Tamanian. And although the city has long outgrown the limits prescribed by the developer, the principal ideas of Alexandre Tamanian were treated with respect in all subsequent master plans of development of Yerevan. Tamanian planned the downtown to follow a radial-circular pattern, the existing main streets were preserved and the centre of the city was defined to be the Republic square (former Lenin square). The Government building designed by Tamanian was erected on this square, it became the dominant structure of the architectural ensemble of the square. During subsequent decades the buildings of the second government block, hotel Armenia and the Trade Unions Council were added and, along with the reconstruction of the Historical museum this completed the formation of the architectural ensemble of Yerevans main square. Several more buildings were erected in Yerevan by Tamanians designs including, first of all, the Opera and Ballet Theatre. It was planned by the architect to have two great auditoriums: an opera hall and a concert hall. The opera section was completed by 1939 while the concert section (the Aram Khachatourian great philharmonic hall) was inaugurated in 1963. The magnificent building of the Opera and Ballet Theatre is on the Theatre square surrounded by parks. With the inception of the democratic movement in Artsakh and Armenia the Theatre square was used for the multitudinous rallies where the people ventilated their attitudes. Since then the square received the popular moniker Liberty Square. Tamanians master plan of Yerevan allocated the Northern part of the city to student campuses. The Tamanian designed first building of the present-day Engineering university and the building of the present-day Institute of the Peoples Economy laid the foundations for the development of this part of Yerevan. The buildings of the Medical University, the Agricultural Academy and several new buildings of the Engineering university were added on later. The campus of the Yerevan State University (architect E. Tigranian) is next hand (between Charents and Alex Manookian streets). The student district also houses the National Library of Armenia, also designed by Alexandre Tamanian. Overhanging the student district on the slope of the Kanaker plateau is an original high-rise that never 110 YEREVAN fails to attract the attention of the guests of Yerevan. It is the Youth Palace (architects A. Tarkhanian, S. Khachikian, G. Poghossian, M. Zakarian). The building houses a movie and concert auditorium, a wedding hall, lounges, restaurants, cafes, a 500 bed hotel, several studios and an indoor swimming pool. There are several sports grounds behind the Youth Palace followed by the green massif of the Victory Park. Across Marshal Baghramian avenue the complexes of the National Academy of Science (architects S. Safarian and M. Manvelian) and the National Assembly (architect M. Grigorian) face each other. The National Academy of Science complex includes the buildings of the Praesidium of the Academy, the Fundamental Library and a number of institutes (of history, arts, oriental studies, geology and mechanics). The building of the National Assembly is auspiciously placed on a hilltop within a park. It has session halls, rooms for standing committees of the National Assembly and a multitude of other functional rooms. The Sports and Concert Complex (architects A. Tarkhanian, G. Poghossian, S. Khachikian, K. Hakobian and G. Mousheghian) stands out by its original architectural solutions. It is a huge building standing on the Tsitsernakaberd hill. The complex has two auditoriums: big (seats 5 thousand spectators) and small (seats 1,300). A rotating platform in-between allows to expand either of the auditoriums by another 1,000 seats. The spacious lobby with a refined interior may be used for different ceremonies. Two flights of stairs lead up from street level to the main entrance of the complex, between them there is a cascade of fountains that add a solemn air to the structure. The high level of architecture is characteristic not only of structures of social or cultural significance, but also of certain industrial enterprises and many residential buildings of Yerevan. Upon entering the city from the direction of the Zvartnots airport our guests will most probably pay attention to two structures separated by the Victory bridge over the Hrazdan river. On a small hilltop on the right embankment is the rigid building of the Cognac distillery (architect N. Markarian) built of red tuff stone. Across the river right past the bridge on the left embankment is the monumental building of 111 Ararat winery ARMENIA the Wine factory (architects R. Israelian and H. Kochar) erected on the site of the former fortress of Yerevan. The high walls of grey basalt are resembling fortress walls. The buildings of the Cognac distillery and the Wine factory make up the architectural ensemble by the Victory bridge built in 1945, the year of the victorious completion of the World War. Today the architectural profile of the capital is hard to imagine without the surface pavilions of some of the Yerevan subway stations. From among the downtown stations the Republic square and Yeritasardakan (Youth) stand out. The surface part of the Republic square The surface pavilion of the Yeritasardakan (Youth) subway station station (architects J. Torossian and R. Minassian) is on two levels. The lower level is a cosy patio in front of the main entrance, there is a fountain in the centre whose jets reach the upper level of the station. The surface pavilion of the Yeritasardakan station (architects S. Kyurkchian) is an original structure. The escalator tunnel emerges through the lobby of the station to the surface in the form of a wide tube aiming at heavens and crowned with a skylight. The tube adds a dynamic dimension to the whole structure. The Churches of Yerevan Only four churches have survived within the centre of the capital. The oldest among these is the Katoghike church (of Virgin Mary), built in the 13th century. This church once had a nave flanked by two side-chapels as well as an atrium of which only the apse with the altar have survived, the rest was demolished in the 1940s during the development of downtown Yerevan. These surviving fragments, badly in need of restoration, are now within the courtyard of the building of the Language Institute of the National Academy of Science (the corner of Abovian street and Sayat-Nova avenue). Hidden among tall residential buildings between Martiros Sarian and Pushkin streets is the church of St. Apostle Anania, also called the Zoravor church. According to lore the church was founded in the 7th century by apostle Anania. In 1679 it collapsed during an earthquake but was rebuilt in 1694. Today it is 112 YEREVAN The Zoravor church one of the most frequented churches of Yerevan. At the beginning of Mashtots avenue is the Sourb (Saint) Sargis, built in the middle of the 15th century. It suffered damage during an earthquake in 1679 but was restored five years after. The next reconstruction of the church took place be- tween the 30s and 40s of the last century and it was rebuilt one more last time in 1969, assuming its current look. The chancery of the archbishop of the Ararat See of the Armenian Apostolic church is built next to the church. Apart from those mentioned the following churches have survived: The Sourb Sarkis church 113 ARMENIA Sourb Hovhannes in Avan (6th century, partly destroyed), Sourb Astvatsatsin and Sourb Hakob in Kanaker (1695) as well as Sourb Hovhannes in Kond (1710). In the year 2001 the Armenian people shall commemorate the 1700th anniversary of adoption of the Christian faith in Armenia. On this occasion the Armenian Apostolic church has decided to erect a Cathedral of St. Gregory the Illuminator in Yerevan, it will be the biggest church in Armenia. The Cathedral will be built at the end of the Circular boulevard on a small hill across the Zoravar Andranik subway station. Parks, boulevards and plazas of Yerevan make up the green zone of the city. The Circular boulevard, which is rather a horseshoe than a closed loop, encircles downtown Yerevan. One end of the horseshoe points at Ayrarat film theatre (Tigran Mets street), while the other reaches the Theatre square and the plaza with the sculpture of the painter Martiros Sarian across it. Along the entire length of the Circular boulevard (5 kilometers) there are beautiful fountains and ponds, dozens of cafes, small restaurants and cosy shaded corners. By virtue of all this the Circular boulevard is one of the recreation areas most loved by Yerevanians. The oldest boulevard of Yerevan is between the Republic and Shahoumian squares. There is a fountain with 2,750 small jets here, built in 1968 to celebrate the 2,750th anniver- A part of the Circular Boulevard with the sculpture Hands, given to the city of Yerevan by the population of the Italian city of Carrara sary of the foundation of Yerevan. There is a green massif between Shahoumian square and Grigor Loussavorich street that is split in two by Shahoumian street. The left hand side of the park (with ones back to Shahoumian square) is called the English Gardens (oldest in town) where the building of the Armenian Soundoukian Drama Theatre is. The right hand side is the Childrens park with many attractions. The Main Avenue boulevard is another recreation zone in downtown Yerevan, pursuant to the master plan it should cross the centre of the city from Sarian street (the Main Post Office) to Khanjian street. Two sections of the boulevard 114 YEREVAN are already in place: stretching from Sarian street to Terian street and from Nalbandian street to Khanjian street. There are lawns, fountains and ponds along the boulevard, the pedestrian lanes are paved with basalt. The recreation zone in the Hrazdan river canyon includes the Khachatour Abovian park with the childrens railroad on the left bank of the river and a section of both embankments almost 15 kilometers long. The zone comprises a system of parks, and the shallow dams along the river flow have increased the space of water. The zone culminates with the artificial Yerevan lake that fills a dilation of the Hrazdan canyon. The Hrazdan river canyon is one of the most popular rest areas for Yerevanians in the Summer months. The park on the Tsitsernakaberd hill, the Hakhtanak (Victory) park with the monument to Mother Armenia, the Botanical Gardens and the Zoo in the Avan pass, the Komitas park with the national Pantheon and others also cover a lot of green ground. The Armenia Memorial-Architectural complex (better known as the Cascade, architects J. Torossian, S. Gourzadian et al) is currently in the final stage of its construction. The guests of Yerevan will no doubt pay due attention to this original structure, since it is visible from many lo- cations in the capital. It is built on the slope of the Kanaker hill and comprises a cascade of five tiers of roofed halls, courtyards and plazas, fountains and cafes flanked on two sides by flights of stairs. The left hand side houses a system of escalators. The stairs or the escalators can be used to access the scenic view opening from the top, where there is also a monument symbolizing the state power of Armenia. The spacious halls on all five tiers shall be used for different exhibitions. The first tier shall house three grand frescoes by artist Grigor Khanjian; The Armenian Alphabet, Vardanank (dedicated to the Avarayr Battle of 451) and Renaissance (dedicated to the restoration of Armenian independence). There is a stele on the level of the fourth tier, dedicated to the adoption of Christianity by the Armenian people. The memorial complex as a whole is called upon to perpetuate the most significant events in the history and culture of the Armenian people. It is built of white stone that highlights it on the background of the green hill. The complex connects the centre of the city (the district of the Opera and Ballet Theatre) to the Hakhtanak park. The absolute height (vertical span of the structure from top to bottom) is 100 meters, the total length is approximately 500 meters and the width is 50 meters. 115 ARMENIA Apart from the museums described in the preceding sections of this guide, there are several others in Yerevan that are a must in our guests itinerary. The State History Museum of Armenia (the Republic square), the oldest among Armenian museums, was founded in 1921. Its permanent exposition covers the entire history of the Armenian people from primitive society to our days. Artifacts from the excavations of monuments of different eras are on display. These include the tools of primitive man, weapons and utensils representing the Urartian period, other Armenian states, as well as sculptures, ornaments and handiworks from different historical provinces of Armenia. The halls dedicated to modern and contemporary Armenian history display documents, in- State History Museum of Armenia. Urartian carriages dustrial samples, books and materials pertaining to the state-building, socio-economic and cultural devel- Erebouni museum at the foot of the Arin-Berd hill opment of Armenia. The museum has one big advantage: genuine items prevail among its exhibits. The museum also organizes thematic exhibitions dedicated to various prominent dates of Armenian history and culture. The museum of the history of the foundation of Yerevan is called the Erebouni Museum and was built in 1968 in the Southwestern part of the capital at the foot of the Arin-Berd hill. The Urartian citadel Erebouni is on the top of the hill. The museum is within the structure of a memorial reserve that includes, apart from Arin-Berd, the archaeological monuments of Karmir Blour and Shengavit. The Erebouni museum 116 YEREVAN displays exhibits pertaining to the Urartian period: weapons, armour, cuneiform inscriptions. A visit to the museum includes an uphill tour of the restored sections of the Erebouni fortress. The Museum of the Armenian Genocide opened in 1995 during the commemoration of the 80th anniversary of the genocide of the Armenian population of Western Armenia and Turkey, perpetrated between 1915 1916. The building of the museum is on the hilltop of Tsitsernakaberd (Fortress of Swallows) within the territory of the Memorial to Genocide Victims. The two-storeyed structure is placed in the slope of the hill in such a way as not to obstruct the view of the Memorial. The top floor houses three semi-circular halls with exhibits of documents and photographs disclosing the history of the preparation and perpetration of the Armenian Genocide by the Turkish authorities. Materials of various international organizations and states condemning the genocide are also on display. The lower floor houses the library, the document depository, a conference hall and other rooms, since the museum is also the Armenian genocide research centre. The Matenadaran is the Mesrob Mashtots Research Institute of Ancient Manuscripts. It has Matenadaran, the Mesrob Mashtots Institute of ancient manuscripts 117 ARMENIA a permanent exhibition which allows it to be classified with the museums. The imposing building of the Matenadaran (architect Mark Grigorian) crowns the upper part of Mashtots avenue that leads to the foot of the Kanaker plateau. A visit to the Matenadaran shall expose our guests to the richest legacy of the Armenian people in manuscripts, most of which is preserved in the Matenadaran. The exposition displays fragments of ancient manuscripts dated by the 5th to 6th centuries, medieval manuscripts of different content: copies of the Bible, historical works, theological and philosophical treatises, discourses on natural sciences etc. The exhibition allows to appreciate the the mastery of Armenian miniature painters that have created marvellous samples of manuscript illuminations. A monument to the creator of the Armenian alphabet St. Mesrob Mashtots (sculptor Ghoukas Choubarian) is in front of the Matenadaran. On both sides of the entrance there are sculptures of outstanding figures of medieval Armenian culture: historian Movses Khorenatsi, mathematician Anania Shirakatsi, poet Frik, jurist Mkhitar Gosh, philosopher Grigor Tatevatsi, artist Toros Roslin. The interior of the building is decorated by a mosaic panel and frescoes depicting scenes from Armenian history (painter Van Khachatour). Monuments of Yerevan There are quite a few monuments erected in Yerevan. Most of them are in memory of Armenian cultural figures, thus expressing the appreciation the Armenian people feels for its outstanding sons and daughters. We shall begin our outline of the most significant monuments of the capital from the monument to David of Sassoun, the hero of the Armenian folk epic. The monument (sculptor Yervand Kochar) is on the railway station square in the middle of a pond. The horse and the rider are sculpted in dynamic unity. The sculptor has succeeded in expressing the virile appearance of David, the defender of the fatherland from foes. According to the opinion of experts from many countries the monument to David of Sassoun is one of the best modern equestrian statues in the world. This monument has long become the symbol of Yerevan, and this is the best tribute to the sculptor. By walking along the Circular boulevard from one end to the other one may observe several monuments to outstanding figures of Armenian culture. The monument to composer Armen Tigranian (sculptor Ara Hovsepian) is quite unorthodox in its form. The monument to poet Yeghishe Charents (sculptor 118 YEREVAN The monument to David of Sassoun Nikoghos Nikoghossian) is a complex ensemble. The same sculptor has authored the monument to poet Mikael Nalbandian: the statue of the poet is standing freely on a wide stone slab without the usual pedestal. The monument to poet Avetik Issahakian (sculptor S. Baghdassarian) is more traditional: the figure of the poet/philosopher is on a pedestal in a meditative pose that is well remembered by all who have seen him in his lifetime. The monument to poet Sayat-Nova (sculptor A. Haroutiunian) is interesting: the fine bust of the poet is built into a wall of white marble. There is a basrelief of dancing girls on the face of the wall, reminding us that the great gussan (minstrel) was also a musician. Quite close to him, in a plaza by the conservatory building, is a monument to composer Komitas, the author of which is also A. Haroutiunian. The composition of the monument to architect Alexandre Tamanian (sculptor A. Hovsepian) is also quite interesting, the architect is leaning over a table with the master plan of the development of Yerevan, the entire Cascade may be seen in the background. The monument to Alexandre Tamanian is one of the very few monuments to architects in the world. The sculpture gallery of the great figures of Armenian art is closed by the monument to painter Martiros Sarian (sculptor Levon Tokmajian). The figure of the artist, carved out of white marble, is in drastic contrast with the surrounding trees. 119 The monument to Armen Tigranian ARMENIA The monument to Yeghishe Charents There are also several monuments to historical figures. The monument to the hero of national liberation struggle of Armenians Vardan Mamikonian (sculptor Yervand Kochar) is in the Southern sector of the Circular boulevard. The monuments to revolutionaries and statesmen Stepan Shahoumian (sculptor Sergey Merkourov) and Alexandre Miasnikian (sculptor Ara Shiraz) are set aside by their monumentalism, these are standing on squares named after them. Every year on April 24, on the day of remembrance of the Armenian genocide of 19151916 hundreds of thousands of Yerevanians come to the Tsitsernakaberd hill, to the Memorial complex of the victims of the genocide (architects S. Kalashian and A. Tarkhanian). The memorial comprises a Remembrance atrium, the Resurrection obelisk and a Memorial wall. The Remembrance atrium is the centre of the ensemble, it is a depressed circular space with an eternal flame burning in the centre surrounded by twelve staunch basalt pylons leaning towards the flame. The cleaved obelisk is rising next to it, it is faced with metal and symbolizes the rebirth of the people that has survived the tragedy. The complex has austere lines and is devoid of ornaments. The memorial wall has inscriptions carved on it with the names of the locations and settlements whose population was subjected to massacres, as well as of The monument to Alexandre Tamanian the places where the Armenians have come up with resistance to the ravagers. The Memorial is emotionally charged and leaves a strong impression on the visitors. 120 YEREVAN next of kin in memory of their dead loved ones. All of these combined add a special decorative touch to the city of Yerevan. The monument to Martiros Sarian There are many samples of small architectural forms in Yerevan. These are khachkars, memorial drinking fountains, decorative figures, stelae. More often than not these are erected in lieu of memorial plaques and the like. Such items may be encountered in the citys parks, boulevards, sidewalks etc. Apart from these there are also memorial drinking fountains erected by the The sculpture of a flower vendor in Yerevan. The flower vendor was a colourful person well known to Yerevanians, he was the citys living attraction for a long time. The lore has it that he did not sell flowers to beautiful girls, he gave them away The principal museums, churches, theatres, concert halls, important buildings, monuments, parks, boulevards and plazas are marked on the map of downtown Yerevan, that will help our guests to better orient in the city and select the routes of their promenades. 121 HISTORICAL AND ARCHITECTURAL MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA Armenian is an open air museum however trite the phrase may be, it still holds true. Armenia has historical and architectural monuments of all ages and periods: from the primitive communal society to modern times. It would be an insurmountable task to try and tell, even in a nutshell, about all of them. Therefore this section of the guide presents only the most remarkable monuments of the past and the present. We shall travel through all ten provinces (marzes) of the country, beginning with those closest to Yerevan. Armavir province The province of Armavir borders on Yerevan from the West. The administrative centre of the province is the town of Armavir, 48 kilometers away from Yerevan. The historical and cultural centre of the province is the city of Vagharshapat. It was founded by king of Armenia Vagharsh (117140 A.D.), who named the city after himself. In 163 A.D. Vagharshapat was made the capital of Armenia. The main attraction of Vagharshapat is the monastery of St. Ejmiatsin. St. Ejmiatsin monastery spans the territory of 80 thousand square meters in the centre of Vagharshapat. The Sourb Ejmiatsin Cathedral, the residence and chancery of the Catholicos of all Armenians, the Seminary, the Alex and Marie Manookian Museum, the printing house and editorial offices of the Ejmiatsin monthly, a hotel, the congregations chambers are all located on this territory. The Cathedral is the oldest Christian church in Armenia. Its building began in the 4th century immediately upon the adoption of Christianit y. 122 The residence of the Catholicos of all Armenians in St. Ejmiatsin MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA According to a church legend, the site of the Cathedral was indicated to Gregory the Illuminator (Loussavorich) by Jesus Christ himself in a revelation. During the centuries that passed the Cathedral was rebuilt many times. Even laymen not versed in the finer aspects of architecture may identify the masonry distinctive of different periods. In the beginning of the 19th century the interior of the Cathedral was decorated by the painter Naghash Hovnatanian, the latters work was restored for the last time in the 50s of this century. St. Ejmiatsin is currently the biggest cathedral of the Armenian Apostolic church. It is especially crowded during religious festivals when the mass is offered by the Catholicos of all Armenians. In the second half of the 19th century an annex (sacristy) was attached to the Cathedral from the East, which housed the museum of St. Ejmiatsin. The museum premises eventually became too crammed for the numerous relics as well as gifts given by the believers from many countries of the world. In the 1980s a special building for the museum was erected next to the residence of the Catholicos, underwritten by the famous benefactor Alex Manookian (USA) and named after the benefactor and his spouse. The Alex and Marie Manookian Museum preserves highly praised ritual utensils, crosses, staffs, jewellery, vestments, painting etc. The chancery of the Catholicos has a small matenadaran (library) with approximately 1,200 manuscripts. Outside of the monastery of St. Ejmiatsin there are other famous architectural monuments in Vagharshapat. The magnificent church of St. Hripsime may be seen upon entering the city from the Yerevan highway. It was built in 618 A.D. by Catholicos Komitas on the site of the legendary martyrdom of virgin Hripsime that had fled to Armenia from Rome with her girlfriends. Turning down the courtship of the heathen Armenian king she had remained faithful to the Christian religion and was therefore killed. The relics of St. Hripsime are contained in a tomb under the church. The St. Hripsime church stands out by its stern and monumental forms, solemn and monolithic composition, its is rightfully considered one of the masterworks of Armenian architecture. The St. Gayane church is South of St. Ejmiatsin. It was built in 630 over a chapel that had stood on the site of the martyrdom of Gayane, the leader of Christian virgins who had fled Rome to Armenia. The church of St. Gayane has clear forms and a solemn interior. The Shoghakat church is West of St. Hripsime and was built much 123 ARMENIA The St. Hripsime church later by the end of the 17th century over a 4th century chapel. According to lore this was the location of a winery where Gayane, Hripsime and their girlfriend hid. The church of Shoghakat follows the centraldomed plan widely used in medieval Armenian church architecture. Five kilometers towards Yerevan from Vagharshapat there are the ruins of the temple of Zvartnots (the temple of Vigilant Forces or of Heavenly Angels). The temple was built between 643652 A.D. by the design of Catholicos Nerses III, who was called thereafter the Builder (Nerses III the Builder) for this feat. The temple collapsed from an earth- quake in the 10th century. In the beginning of the 20th century, having studied what remained of the ruins of the temple, the outstanding specialist in the history of Armenian architecture Toros Toramanian put forth his own hypothesis of the reconstruction of the temple. According to his reconstruction the temple 124 The ruins of the temple of Zvartnots MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA of Zvartnots was a three tiered central-dome structure that astounded with its magnificence. The reconstruction of Toros Toramanian was not accepted by his contemporaries unchallenged, but soon thereafter during excavations in the capital city of the Bagratid kingdom Ani a scaled model of the Zvartnots temple was uncovered that confirmed the reconstruction of Toramanian. The surviving fragments allow to form an opinion about the ornaments that lavishly decorated the temple, many motifs of the Zvartnots ornaments are used in Armenian architecture up until our days. According to the opinion of European specialists the temple of Zvartnots may be ranked with the greatest monuments of ancient architecture. The modest Zvartnots museum on the territory of the temple allows to shed more light on the architectural features and principles of reconstruction of the temple, its influence on the further development of Armenian architecture. The Armavir province has memorials dedicated to heroic events in the history of the Armenian people. The Monument to the Defenders of Mousa Dagh. The village of Mousaler is approximately halfway between Yerevan and Vagharshapat, it was founded by the natives of Armenian villages around Mousa mountain in Cilicia. In 1915 the inhabitants of these villages stood up against deportation orders by the Turkish authorities, went up the Mousa mountain, set a fortified camp on the summit and defended it for the duration of forty days. The monument is dedicated to the heroic exploits of the defenders of Mousa The monument to the defenders of Mousa mountain in the village of Mousaler (Armavir province) Dagh and is built on a hilltop next to the village of Mousaler. Built by the design of Raphael Israelian the monument resembles a fortress turret of red tuff stone. It houses a museum of the defence of Mousa Dagh. Every year on the last Sunday in September the descendants of the valiant defenders of the mountain hold celebrations at the foot of the 125 ARMENIA monument and pay their tribute to the memory of the heroes of the national liberation struggle. The Austrian author Franz Werfel wrote a novel dedicated to the epic of Mousa mountain. It is called The forty days of Mousa Dagh and has been translated into many languages. The Memorial Complex of the Heroes of the Sardarapat Battle opened in 1968 ten kilometers away from the town of Armavir. This is the site where the Armenians won a The State ethnographical museum in Sardarapat. One of the halls nassian et al) in expressing the dominant idea of the ensemble. The State Ethnographical Museum of Armenia (architect Raphael Israelian) is within the territory of the Memorial. The building of the museum is a marvellous accomplishment of modern Armenian architecture. It conforms with all the requirements presented to museum premises, it is monumental, innovative and at the same time embodies traditional architectural forms. The exposition of the museum is quite rich. It presents a multitude of materials from many historical and ethnographic regions of Armenia that allow to form an idea about the development of crafts, the peculiarities of the lifestyles of the Armenian people in different periods. Ararat province victory over Turkish aggressors in 1918. The complex includes a big park and a high bell tower (symbolizing the tocsin calling the people to arms), an alley with figures of eagles that leads up to a wall with a triumphal arch. Behind the wall there are the buildings of a refectory and the Ethnographical museum. The Memorial astounds with its scale, the adroit use of the landscape, the allegorical allusions made by the architect (Raphael Israelian) and the sculptors (A. Haroutiunian, S. Mi- The province of Ararat adjoins Yerevan from the Southeast. The administrative centre of the province is the town of Artashat, 39 kilometers away from Yerevan. The most significant historical and architectural monument of the province is the monastery of Khor Virap, situated on a hill next to the village of Pokr Vedi. The monastery is one of the sanctuaries of the Armenian Apostolic church and a pilgrimage site. According to church lore this is the location of the municipal gaol 126 MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA Khor Virap of the capital of Armenia Artashat, where, upon the orders of king Tiridates III, they threw Grigor, one of the associates of the king accused of professing Christianity. Grigor, depending on the source, spent 13 or 15 years in gaol. The story about the tribulations of Grigor intertwines with the legend of Gayane, Hripsime and their girlfriends. Following the execution of the Christian virgins (300 A.D.) upon the kings orders the latter fell gravely ill. The people called the kings ailment swines illness, since his head began to resemble a pigs snout. The kings sister Khosrovdoukht saw several dreams to the effect that the king can only be cured by Grigor, then suffering in gaol. Khosrovdoukht managed to get Grigor out of the gaol. The latter buried the remains of the martyred virgins and then cured the king. Following that the king and his court adopted Christianity and Grigor soon became the first Catholicos of Armenians (Gregory the Illuminator). In 642 Catholicos Nerses III built a chapel over the gaol. In 1662 the chapel was replaced by a new one that still stands. The gaol where Grigor suffered is preserved under the chapel. The monastery also includes the church of Sourb Astvatsatsin (Virgin Mary) built in the 127 ARMENIA end of the 17th century, fragments of the wall that once surrounded the monastery, the refectory, the cells of the monks etc. A most magnificent view of mount Ararat opens from the hilltop of the monastery. Kotayk province The province of Kotayk is North of Yerevan. The administrative centre of the province is the town of Hrazdan, 50 kilometers away from Yerevan. The province has many monuments of different historical periods. The heathen temple in Garni is the only surviving monument of the Hellenistic period in Armenia. The temple is dedicated to the god of the sun Mithra and was built in the second half of the 1st century B.C., during the reign of king Tiridates I. Most probably it had survived the adoption of Christianity by virtue of being within the territory of the summer residence of Armenian royalty. The temple collapsed during the earthquake of 1679. Today the heathen temple in Garni may be seen in its former splendour on the background of one of the most beautiful spots of Armenia. The temple was restored in the 1970s, using the surviving fragments and carving the missing ones anew. The temple is built of basalt stone. The walls of the shrine and the 24 columns of the portico rest on a podium (length 15 meters, width 11 meters). The facade and the rear have six columns each, while the flanks have eight each. The portal has wide stairs leading up to it. The capitals of the columns and the frieze are decorated with ornaments. The fortress of Garni. The heathen temple is on the territory of the fortress of Garni. It was impregnable by virtue of the steep rocks of the ravine of the Azat river, as well as the strength of the fortress walls The Garni canyon in winter built of immense basalt blocks. The territory of the fortress, that was used as the Summer residence of Armenian royalty, included the palace, the garrison barracks and other structures that did not survive. The royal bath is of great interest, it is arguably the oldest utility structure in Armenia (3rd century). The mosaic on the floor of the dressing room has survived, it is made of local gems. The subject of the mosaic is borrowed from Greek mythology and depicts the inception of life in 128 MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA the seas. The fortress of Garni allows to form an opinion about the fortifications of ancient Armenia and the structure of royal residences. The monastery of Geghard. Seven kilometers away from Garni in the Northeast of the province of Kotayk is a unique monument, the monastery of Geghard. According to the information of Armenian historians as early as in the 4th century there already was a monastery called Ayrivank (the Cave monastery) in this inaccessible corner of the Azat river ravine. The monastery was located in caves that abound in the nearby rocks. Later the monastery was renamed Geghard (the word geghard means spear). According to lore the monastery was the depository of one of the relics of the Armenian Apostolic church: the spear that one of the Roman guards had used to pierce the rib of crucified Christ. The spearhead is presently preserved in the museum of St. Ejmiatsin. The monastic complex of Geghard has been preserved and operates to our days. It was built in the 13th century and comprises the principal church (the Cathedral), the Katoghike church (built in 1215 by the Zacharid princes) and two tiers of churches carved inside the rock (built at the end of the 13th century by prince Prosh who bought Geghard from the Zacharids) and the living quarters with auxiliary structures. Although the Katoghike church is a marvellous example of the cross-domed churches characteristic of Armenian architecture, the visitors of Geghard are most impressed by the rock carved churches. Access to these churches (two small churches and an atrium on the lower level and a chapel/burial vault on the upper) is possible straight from the principal church, the Northern wall of which leans against the rock. The adroit and precise design of the builders is amazing: they have removed a great amount of rock and carved the cave churches immediately next to the existing Katoghike church. What is even more stunning is that these churches possess all of the features of conventional churches: domes, arcs, semi-columns, altars, ornaments etc. Having visited Geghard one may observe the cells of the monks in the natural and carved caves. There was a time when the monastery was a famous cultural centre with its own school and a matenadaran (library). The Kecharis monastery in Tsakhkadzor. The Tsakhkadzor resort is on the Eastern slope of the Teghenis mountain, 52 kilometers North of Yerevan. Tsakhkadzor is famous for its numerous pensions, lodges and sports facilities. There is a ski lift leading to the top of the Teghenis mountain. The skiing season on 129 ARMENIA The monastery of Geghard the mountain slopes lasts for most part of the year. The marvellous monastery complex of Kecharis is in the Northwestern part of the town. The Kecharis monastery (11th to 13th centuries) comprises three churches and two chapels. Its territory has many khachkars of the 12th to 14th centuries that organically augment the ensemble of the monastery. The principal church of Sourb Grigor Loussavorich is of the central-domed type (built in 1033), although the drum has not been preserved, it collapsed during the earthquake of 1828. Nevertheless, even 130 MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA without the drum the church is an impressive structure thanks to its stern style and clear-cut lines. South of the principal church is the little church of Sourb Nshan (it is believed to have been built in 1031). Next to it is the Katoghike church built later in the 13th century following the traditional cross-domed pattern. The fourth church of the monastic complex is the Sourb Haroutiun church (Holy Resurrection) built in 1220, it is somewhat distanced from the others. The monastery has a small chapel (11th century) with the tomb of the founder of the monastery, a major medieval theologian and statesman Grigor Magistros Pahlavouni. The Kecharis monastery used to be a well-known religious and cultural centre of medieval Armenia, it is the place of creation of many important works in theology and other disciplines, as well as of numerous manuscripts. The Orbeli Brothers Museum. The little museum of Orbeli brothers is situated in the centre of Tsakhkadzor, it displays materials that shed light on the lives and work of three outstanding scientists: the member of the academy physiologist Levon Orbeli, the member of the academy orientalist Iossiph Orbeli (the first president of the National Academy of Science of Armenia) and the jurist, the founder of underwa- ter archaeology Rouben Orbeli. There is a monument to Orbeli brothers right next to the museum (sculptor A. Hovsepian). A panoramic view of Tsakhkadzor The churches of Yeghvard. The town of Yeghvard is 15 kilometers Northwest of Yerevan. There are references to Yeghvard in sources of the 7th century and it has valuable architectural monuments pre served. Three kilometers Northeast of Yeghvard there is the church of Zoravor, built in the end of the 7th century. It is of the central-domed 131 The monastery of Kecharis ARMENIA type. The drum and the Southern section of this two tiered church are gone, but even its present look allows to rank the church of Zoravor with the significant monuments of medieval Armenian architecture. The two storeyed church of Sourb Astvatsatsin has slim proportions and wonderful decorations on the exterior. This very beautiful church is also a tomb and was built in 1301. It was twice restored: in the 17th and 18th centuries. There are ruins of even older structures preserved in Yeghvard: that of a single-nave church and of a big three-naved basilica (5th century). The village of Bjni (referred to earliest in sources of the 5th century) has two churches preserved. The small church of Sourb Sarkis (7th century) is built of pink tuff on a high rock. It is the smallest among cross-domed type churches. In 1970 the church underwent restoration. The church of Sourb Astvatsatsin is rising in the centre of the village (sources refer to it as a monastery), it was built in 1031 by Grigor Magistros. Its construction follows the domed hall pattern. It is assumed that the church was used to preserve the manuscripts copied in the monastery. The church was restored in 1947. Aragatsotn province The province of Aragatsotn adjoins Yerevan from the Northwest. The name of the province prompts that it lies in the foot of the Aragats mountain. The ad- The old bridge in Ashtarak (beginning of the 18th century) ministrative centre of the province is the town of Ashtarak, 20 kilometers away from Yerevan. The province of Aragatsotn has a great number of historical and architectural monuments. The churches of Ashtarak. The provincial centre has several historical and architectural monuments. The most famous among them is the church of Karmravor (middle of the 7th century) in the Northeastern sector of the town. It is of the crossdomed type, fragments of murals have been preserved in the interior. The shingled roof is well-preserved. The small dimensions of the church (6 by 7.5 meters) allow to consider it a familial chapel. 132 MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA The Tsiranavor church is an older structure (a three naved basilica of the 5th century). The church was built on cliffs overhanging the Kassakh river and resembles a fortified bastion. In the beginning of the 19th century it was really used as a fortification. The two other churches of the town, the church of Spitakavor and the church of Marine are dated by the 13th century. The first is poorly preserved. The road from Ashtarak goes uphill to the village of Byurakan on the Southeastern slope of Aragats mountain. Byurakan is an old village first mentioned in a source of the 10th century. The Byurakan church of Sourb Hovhannes is of the same age. The Summer residence of the Catholicoi as well as the complex of The Karmravor church buildings of the Byurakan astrophysical observatory of the National Academy of Science of Armenia are also in Byurakan. Amberd. By going from Byurakan up the Aragats mountain one may see the impressive walls of a fortress on the left hand side. This is the Amberd fortress and castle (1013th centuries) and was the familial estate of the Amberd Pahlavouni princes. It is one of the few feudal castles of Armenian that has been more or less preserved to our days. The location for it has been selected quite skillfully, the builders took advantage of the mountainous terrain and put the fortress on a cape surrounded on three sides by ravines. Beyond the fortress walls built of massive basalt blocks there was a three storeyed castle (presently in ruins). Fragments of the water supply system of the castle, as well as the baths and the secret passage to the canyon are preserved. In 1206 a crossdomed type church was built on the territory of the fortress. It was commissioned by the famous Armenian 133 ARMENIA warlord Vahram Pahlavouni and is one of the most beautiful churches of its type in Armenia. Another highway from Ashtarak takes us to Ejmiatsin. Five kilometers away from Ashtarak along this road is the village of Oshakan, one of the oldest villages of Armenia (there are references to it since the 4th century). There is a unique monument upon entry to Oshakan, an obelisk dedicated to the Armenian alphabet. The obelisk (architect Jim Torossian) was built in 1962 during the festivities of the 1,600th anniversary of the creation of Armenian script. The obelisk comprises two high stelae at an angle to each other, resembling an open book. The left hand stele has Mesrobian letters carved in stone, the right hand stele bears an inscription. The location of the obelisk, the only monument in the world to an alphabet, is not random, the grave of Mesrob Mashtots is in Oshakan. The church of Sourb Mesrob Mashtots in Oshakan. The creator of the Armenian alphabet Mesrob Mashtots died in 440 A.D. and was buried in Oshakan. A small chapel was built over his grave, replaced in the second half of the 19th century by a single nave basilica. The relics of St. Mesrob Mashtots and his church are sanctuaries of the Armenian Apostolic church and a site of pilgrimage. The province of Aragatsotn has monasteries that were once famous cultural centres of medieval Armenia. The monastery of Hovhannavank is in the village of Hovhannavank. The monastic complex includes a single-nave church of the 5th century, the oldest in the monastery and the principal church of Sourb Karapet of the cross-domed type built in 1216. Its Southern wall and the dome have been restored. The church is richly decorated with vegetative ornaments, it has a basrelief with the depiction of Christ on a throne. North of Ashtarak in the village of Artashavan is the monastery of Saghmosavank. The principal church of the monastic complex is Sourb Sargis, built in 1215 by prince Vache Vachoutian. There was a scriptorium built North of the church, where they not only preserved but also copied manuscripts. Among other architectural monuments of the province of Aragatsotn the following merit attention: the church of Sourb Grigor in the village of Arouch (7th century), the Tegher monastery (13th century) on the slope of the Aragats mountain Northwest of Ashtarak, the architectural complex of the 7th century in Talin, the church of Sourb Hovhannes in Mastara (6th century, a fragment of a caravansary of the 14th century has also been 134 MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA preserved close to the village of Arouch. Having completed the acquaintance with the monuments in the provinces adjacent to Yerevan, we shall proceed with our exposure to Armenia first with the Northern regions, to be followed by the Southern ones. built of reddish tuff and have been preserved along the entire perimeter almost up to the level of the cornice. The Yererouyk basilica is one of the Shirak province The province of Shirak is on the Northwest of the country. The administrative centre is the city of Gyumri, the second in size in Armenia, 116 kilometers away from Yerevan. The oldest architectural monument on the territory of the Shirak province is the single-nave church in the village of Karnout (in ruins, 4th century). The composition of the church is characteristic of the earliest Armenian basilicas. It is assumed that the church of Karnout was initially a heathen temple. The basilica of Yererouyk oldest churches of Armenia and it is a source of admiration even in the condition it is in now. In the village of Marmashen, 10 kilometers Northwest of the provincial centre, there is a well-preserved monastery of Marmashen (10th13th centuries). The principal church of the monastery is the d o m e d h a l l t y p e Ka t o g h i k e church, built by prince Vahram Within the village limits of a modern settlement of Anipemza is the semi-ruined three-naved basilica, known as the Yererouyk Basilica (it was built in the ancient village of Yererouyk between the 4th and 5th centuries). According to a source of the 10th century this basilica was called the church of Sourb Karapet. The external walls of the church are 135 The monastery of Marmashen THE REPUBLIC OF ARMENIA HISTORICAL ARCHITECTURAL MONUMENTS PAGE 136 THE REPUBLIC OF ARMENIA HISTORICAL ARCHITECTURAL MONUMENTS PAGE 136 ARMENIA Pahlavouni in 9881029. According to the opinion of specialists the Katoghike church is one of the best structures of the Bagratid period. The monastic complex includes three more churches, one of them contains the tomb of Vahram Pahlavouni. The monastery of Marmashen was an outstanding religious and cultural centre of medieval Armenia. The monastery of Harij is in a village by the same name that is known to exist since the 2nd century B.C. The monastery is much younger, it is dated by the 7th century A.D., when the church of Sourb Grigor was built (of the domed type). Later, in 1201, the rulers of Armenia brothers Zakare and Ivane Zakarians built the church of Sourb Astvatsatsin that became the principal structure of the complex. The monastery was expanded in the 19th century and was used for some time as the residence of Catholicoi. Other monuments of the province include the semi-ruined churches of Sourb Astvatsatsin (5th century) and Sourb Gevorg (7th century) in the town of Artik, and 2 kilometers away from Artik there is the monastery of Lmbatavank (the church of Sourb Stepanos, 7th century). This church is one of the few where frescoes have survived. Lori province The province of Lori is in the North of the country. The administrative centre is the city of Vanadzor, 145 kilometers away from Yerevan. The best known monuments of the Lori province are the church in Odzoun, as well as the monasteries in Sanahin and Haghpat. The church in Odzoun is a domed basilica. We lack reliable information on the dating of the church, but the general composition, decoration and other architectural features allow the specialists to date it by the 6th century. Later The Odzoun church the church was reconstructed and has reached our days in a relatively good condition. North of the church is the famous memorial monument. A lofty podium supports three high pylons with stelae in between. The stelae are covered with ornate carvings: 138 MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA religious bas-reliefs, images of the apostles. The Odzoun monument is one of the best samples of medieval memorial structures in Armenia. The monastery of Sanahin was founded in the 10th century in a village by the same name, and is presently within city limits of Alaverdi. The oldest in the monastery is the church of Sourb Astvatsatsin, dated by 951 A.D. The monastery expanded in the course of several subsequent centuries, new buildings were added on. These include the church of Amenaprkich, the chapel of Sourb Grigor (10th century), the Academy of Grigor Magistros (beginning of the 11th century), the scriptorium (middle of the 11th century) between the churches of Sourb Astvatsatsin and Amenaprkich. The scriptorium of the Sanahin monastery was the biggest medieval structure of its type. The monastery of Sanahin was a major religious and cultural centre of medieval Armenia. Between the 10th and 11th centuries its congregation counted several hundred monks and in the academy that enjoyed wide popularity young men were taught to become servants of the Armenian Apostolic Church. The faculty included famous theologians and scholars. The monastery of Hakhpat. The village of Hakhpat, 6 kilometers away from the city of Alaverdi, is the location of the biggest monastic complex of medieval Armenia. The monastery was founded in 976 during the reign of king Ashot III Bagratouni. The oldest structure of The monastery of Haghpat the monastery is the church of Sourb Nshan (Holy Sign). It is of the domed hall type and was consecrated in 991. Two side chapels were added to it later, the big one (built in the beginning of the 13th century) and the second, known as The Hamazasp House (built in 1257). In 1245 a stand alone three storeyed belfry was built. The church has reached our days without substantial alterations. The monastic complex also includes: a small domed church of Sourb Grigor (1005 A.D.), the chapel of Sourb Astvatsatsin (13th century), the scriptorium (13th century), the big refectory (13th century) which is outside of the monastery limits. A 139 ARMENIA number of splendid khachkars of the 11th13th centuries are standing on the territory of the monastery, the best known among them is the Amenaprkich (All-Savior) khachkar with a sculpted crucifix. Mongols an razed to the ground. In the course of subsequent centuries the town and the fortress were more than once hit and plundered by foreign invaders, eventually they were abandoned by the inhabitants. Archaeological excavations began on the site of the fortress and the town since 1960s. Among other monuments of the Lori province the following should be noted: the Sourb Astvatsatsin church in the village of Kourtan (single-nave), the fortress and monastery in Akhtala. Tavoush province The Sanahin bridge Similar to the monastery of Sanahin, the monastery of Hakhpat used to be a major religious and cultural hub of medieval Armenia. Many manuscripts have been preserved in the scriptorium of the Hakhpat monastery, including some very well known monuments of Armenian scripture. Not far from the town of Stepanavan on the Dzoraget river the ruins of the medieval fortress and town of Lore (Loriberd) have been preserved. In the period of feudal fragmentation of Armenia between the 10th and 13th centuries it was the capital of the Lori kingdom. In 1238 the fortress was seized by the The province of Tavoush is in the Northeast of the country. The administrative centre is the city of Ijevan, 137 kilometers away from Yerevan. Two famous monasteries of medieval Armenia are on the territory of the province of Tavoush: Haghartsin and Goshavank. The monastery of Haghartsin (10th13th centuries) is 18 kilometers North of the town of Dilijan in the canyon of Haghartsin river. Similar to most of Armenian monasteries Haghartsin is built in a picturesque location, concealed in a forest. The monastery was founded in the 10th century, when the Sourb Grigor church was built. This cross-domed church has side chapels in all four 140 MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA corners and stands out as a white spot against the background of the forest (it is built of white limestone). The principal church of the monastery is the Sourb Astvatsatsin church built in 1281 by the domed hall pattern. Another church, Sourb Stepanos, was built in 1244. The main attraction of the monastery is the refectory (1248) that has two halls. The Haghartsin refectory is one of the two surviving structures of it type in Armenia (the other refectory is in the monastery of Haghpat). The Haghartsin monastery was one of the leading cultural centres of medieval Armenia. The monastery of Goshavank (Nor Getik) was founded on the right bank of the Getik river in 1188 by the renowned Armenian scholar, jurist and fabulist Mkhitar Gosh. The monastery of Goshavank includes the churches of Sourb Astvatsatsin (1196), Sourb Grigor (1231), Sourb Grigor Loussavorich (1241), a scriptorium (1291) and a school (13th century). Many beautiful khachkars have been preserved in Goshavank. Historical sources mention the existence of a university and a seminary in this monastery where many manuscripts were created and preserved. The monastery of Haghartsin 141 ARMENIA There is another monastery in the Tavoush province, the monastery of Kirants (13th century) in a village by the same name. It comprises three churches, side halls, a refectory, residential and auxiliary structures. Attractions of Dilijan. One of the better known resorts of the Republic of Armenia Dilijan (106 kilometers from Yerevan) is in the territory of the Tavoush province. Dilijan is an al- A panoramic view of Dilijan pine spa: its clear forest air (pine), the warm sun and the Dilijan mineral water possess therapeutic powers. Several sanatoriums (Alpine Armenia, Dilijan etc.), lodges and pensions operate in Dilijan. The retreats of composers and cinematographers are also in Dilijan. A historical district of the 19th century has been restored in the downtown. The town itself is a part of the Dilijan Public Reserve, established in 1958 and covering 24 thousand hectares of mostly forests. There are many monuments in the environs of Dilijan: ruins of medieval fortresses and monasteries, caravanserays, khachkars etc. Three kilometers North of Dilijan on a forested slope is the monastery of Joukhtak Vank (12th13th centuries) comprising two churches (hence the name of the monastery since joukht means a pair). The church of Sourb Astvatsatsin was built in 1201 (domed hall). The second church of Sourb Grigor is of the same type (the drum is not preserved). It is maintained that the church of Sourb Grigor was built earlier than the church of Sourb Astvatsatsin. Both churches are built of light yellow felsite. Many historical and architectural monuments of the Northern regions of the Republic of Armenia have suffered damage from the Spitak earthquake of 1988 and are in need of restoration. Gegharkounik province The province of Gegharkounik is in the East of the country, including the Sevan basin. The administrative centre is the city of Gavar, 98 kilometers away from Yerevan. The Gegharkounik province has many historical and architectural monuments pertaining to different periods. 142 MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA Ljashen. We shall begin our exposure to the historical and architectural monuments of the province with a monument of the Urartian period. The remains of a cyclopean fortress (3rd1st millennia B.C.) have been preserved next to the village of Ljashen on the shore of lake Sevan. The walls of the fortress are built of crude basalt rocks 3 to 4 meters thick. In the middle of the 1950s the water of lake Sevan was depleted for the needs of the Sevan-Hrazdan cascade hydropower plants, baring the site of an ancient settlement and its burial grounds. Archaeological excavations of the site revealed a cuneiform inscription of the Urartian king Argishti, recounting his conquests of the cities of Ishtiuni and Kiekhuni. There are sufficient grounds to believe that the city of Kiekhuni was where contemporary Ljashen is. Archaeological excavations have revealed a plethora of material: wooden carriages, ceramics, various ornaments and decorations etc. This material allows to state that the ancient culture of Armenia contained a Ljashen age. Remains of Urartian fortresses are also found in the environs of the provincial centre, the city of Gavar, in the village of Lanjaghbyur and other locations. The monastery of Sevan (9th century). The Sevan monastery is on the present-day Sevan peninsula (prior to depletion of the lake it was an island). The congregation settled on the island at the end of the 8th century and undertook the construction of a monastery in the last quarter of the century that followed. Three churches were built, as well as the cells of the monks and auxiliary structures. Only two of these churches have survived: the church of Sourb Arakelots (Saint Apostles) and the church of Sourb Astvatsatsin. Both were built in 874 following the cross-shaped pattern. The churches are sufficiently well preserved. Two carved wooden doors from the Sevan monastery (of the 12th and 16th centuries), exemplifying the advanced art of woodwork, are presently preserved at the State Historical Museum of Armenia. The Sevan island is relevant to an important episode of the liberation struggle of the Armenian people against Arab domination. Prince Ashot Bagratouni (the future king Ashot Yerkat) was on the Sevan island with his regiment in 925. He landed on the shore and won a decisive victory that resulted in the restoration of Armenian independence. Noratous. Monuments of different periods have been preserved in the village of Noratous 5 kilometers Southeast of the provincial centre. The archaeologists have found 143 ARMENIA The monastery of Sevan weapons, ceramics and ornaments in the burial ground pertaining to the Bronze Age. The church of Sourb Astvatsatsin rises in the centre of the village. It was built at the end of the 9th century and is of the domed hall type. In the 14th century the church was destroyed by the Persians but was rebuilt in the 15th century. The roof is fragmented and the drum is damaged. The big cemetery of Noratous is widely known thanks to its great number of khachkars mostly of the 13th to 17th centuries. Many of these khachkars are set on special foundations. A small church of Sourb Grigor (10th century) is on the Southeastern end of the village. It is of the domed hall type. 144 Noratous. Khachkars MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA Among other monuments of the Gegharkounik province the following should be noted: the monastery of Ayrivank (9th12th centuries) in the village by the same name on the shore of Sevan, the churches of Sourb Hovannes (9th century), Sourb Karapet (10th century) and Sourb Astvatsatsin (middle of the 19th century) in the city of Gavar etc. cathedral of the bishops of Syunik. The oldest structure of the monastery, the church of Sourb Karapet (9th10th centuries) has not survived. The principal church of the monastery, also called Sourb Karapet, was built in 12211227. The church had an atrium (1261), which was rebuilt by the famous architect and Vayots Dzor province The province of Vayots Dzor is in the South of the country. The administrative centre is the city of Yeghegnadzor, 122 kilometers away from Yerevan. The monastery of Noravank. The following statement is not in the least exaggerated: the monastery of Noravank is one of the most splendid monuments of medieval Armenia. Noravank is built in an inaccessible location amongst stunning nature five kilometers away from the village of Amaghou. In the beginning of 1980s an adequate road was built leading to Noravank along a tributary of the Arpa river. The monastery is overhanging the gorge of the river. Thanks to the new road the monastery is no longer inaccessible and the guests of Armenia, once they are in Vayots Dzor, pay a mandatory visit to the monastery. Between the 12th and 14th centuries the Noravank monastery was the Noravank sculptor Momik following the earthquake of 1321. The atrium is decorated with bas-reliefs on religious themes: Mother of God with the infant, Father God and others. Momik also built the two-storeyed church/ sepulcher Sourb Astvatsatsin, stunning in its perfection and richness of decoration. A number of marvellous khachkars are preserved on the territory of the monastery, one of which is the gravestone of Momik the architect himself. Gladzor. Not far away from Noravank is one of the biggest 145 ARMENIA educational centres of medieval Armenia, the Gladzor university. Its premises have not survived. There is a theory according to which the university had occupied the territory A landscape in Vayots Dzor of the monastery of Tanadeh Vank (referred to in sources since the 7th century, the principal structures built in the 13th century), which is 7 kilometers Southeast of the village of Vernashen. The university was founded in 1282 and operated through 1338, having won wide acclaim within the fifty or so years. Renowned theologians and scholars of the time taught and worked in it, they have prepared the total of over 350 vardapets. Manuscripts were written in the university, the illuminators that worked there established the Gladzor school of Armenian book miniature. The church of Sourb Astvatsatsin in Areni. The village of Areni is on the Arpa river. On the Eastern end of the village on a hilltop is the church of Sourb Astvatsatsin, built in 1231 by Momik the architect. The church is of the central dome type, it has basreliefs of the Mother of God with the infant and the symbols of the Evangelists, all carved by Momik. The drum of the church has not survived. Perfect architectural forms and the propitious location, as well as the artful decoration have made the church of Sourb Astvatsatsin in Areni one of the best architectural monuments of medieval Armenian architecture. Among other monuments of the Gegharkounik province the monastery of Sourb Sion (referred to since the 8th century) in the village of Herher should be noted. The monastery comprises two churches: Sourb Sion and Sourb Astvatsatsin (end of the 13th century) and a small chapel. The remains of a small fortress called Kapooyt have survived close to the village. Siunik province The province of Siunik adheres to the Southern border of the country. The administrative centre of the province is the city of Kapan, 316 kilometers away from Yerevan. The monastery of Tatev. The most prominent historical and 146 MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA architectural monument of the Siunik province is the monastery of Tatev in the village by the same name. The monastery was founded in the 9th century on the site of an ancient shrine. The oldest structure of the monastery is the church of Sourb Poghos-Petros (895906) of the domed basilica type. The interior of the church had frescoes that have not survived. South of this church a vaulted church was built in 1285 called the church of Sourb Grigor. The visitors to the monastery shall pay attention to an interesting monument: the rocking stele Gavazan (Staff ) in the courtyard of the monastery. The height of the stele is 8 meters, it is octagonal, made of small stone bricks and crowned with a traceried cross. The University of Tatev operated in the monastery between 1390 and 1453, picking up the traditions of the university of Gladzor. Famous scholars and theologians worked in the university. The University of Tatev was a major educational centre in medieval Armenia. In the 17th18th centuries defensive structures were added to the monastery, it was surrounded with fortified walls (presently mostly ruined), underground passages were dug and auxiliary buildings added. The monastery of Tatev suffered substantial damage from the earthquake of 1931, but has been mostly rebuilt since. Khndzoresk. The province of Suinik has a very remarkable monument 8 kilometers away from Goris the cave village of Khndzoresk. The presently abandoned village is on the left and right faces of a hill crisscrossed with ravines. Since the slopes have no flat spaces fit for building, the people have dug terraces in the rock in such a manner, that the roof of the lower house served as the courtyard floor for the one above it and so forth. Apart from The Shaki waterfall that the inhabitants of Khndzoresk put to good use the many caves along the slopes. These features of construction and the terrain contributed to strengthen the impregnability of the settlement. The inhabitants of Khndzoresk took active part in the national liberation struggle of the 18th century under the leadership of David Bek. The tomb of Mkhitar Sparapet, a confederate of David Bek, is in Khndzoresk. 147 ARMENIA Presently the Old Khndzoresk possesses the status of a historical landmark under public protection. The tomb in Aghitu. The picture of this original monument may be encountered in almost all studies of the Aghitu adheres to the monument in Odzoun (5th6th centuries). The church of Sisavan. In the Northern end of the town of Sissian is the church of Sisavan (Sourb Grigor). The church was built in the The monastery of Tatev history of Armenian architecture. It was built in the village of Aghitu (called Aghuti prior to 1995) next to the town of Sissian. The monument is quite high (10 meters), it has two pylons rising from a rectangular podium that covers two crypts. The pylons and a column between them are joined together by an arch. Three smaller arches complete the composition. The monument is richly ornamented. By its significance and architectural design the monument in last quarter of the 7th century and is of the cross-domed type. The main specific feature of the church is the shape of the drum. It has 12 faces and is decorated with sculpted figures of the three persons that commissioned the church: the prince, the spiritual leader and the parish priest. The Sisavan church is the oldest among the surviving churches of Siunik. The monasteries of Yeritsavank (5th11th centuries, next to the village of Artsvanik), Vorotnavank 148 MONUMENTS OF ARMENIA (9th12th centuries, next to the village of Vaghatin) and Vahanavank (10th11th centuries, next to the vil- lage of Shkharjik) and other monuments are also in the territory of the province of Siunik. We have described above only some of the prominent historical and architectural monuments of Armenia. Most of them have remained outside of the territory of our present day Republic, in Western Armenia occupied by Turkey. It is important not only to know these monuments but also to do everything to ensure their preservation for the enjoyment of the generations to come. 149 ARMENIANS IN THE CONTEMPORARY WORLD The historical fate of the Armenian people is such that since the early Middle Ages Armenians had to leave their homeland in search for adequate livelihood in alien lands. The loss of national statehood, the occupation of Armenia by foreign conquerors and the oppression reigning in the country, the ethnic and religious persecution these are all the main reasons making the Armenian quit the motherland and resettle in other countries. The radius of dispersion of Armenians, gradually increasing, covered not only neighbouring Georgia and Byzantium, but also farther countries: Bulgaria, Crimea, Poland, Hungary, The Kiev Russia, Moldova, the Ukraine and then India and certain countries of the Near East. After the fall of the Cilician Armenian kingdom (end of the 14th century) a substantial number of Armenians settled in Cyprus and then Italy, France and other countries. At the turn of the 18th century there were Armenian migratory settlements in many countries of Asia and Europe. Armenians in alien lands were staunch: they maintained their identity, religion, contributed to the development of the national culture. The public and political circles of the Armenian colonies strived to preserve their links with the motherland, to help with the national-liberation struggle of the native people. The contemporary Armenian Diaspora (Spyurk) was formed in the first decades of the 20th century when, because of the Genocide of Armenians perpetrated by the Turkish authorities in Western Armenia, Cilicia and Armenian-populated regions of Turkey, approximately 800 thousand Armenians were dispersed over many countries of the world, augmenting the already existing communities and establishing new ones. The numbers of Armenians rose in Russia, Greece, Bulgaria, Romania, Egypt, Lebanon, Syria, France, the USA, a number of Latin American countries. The migration of Armenians over the world continues to our days. Because of political upheavals of the second half of the 20th century in the Near Eastern countries: the nationalist forces taking over in Egypt, the prolonged war in Lebanon, the 150 ARMENIANS IN THE CONTEMPORARY WORLD Islamic revolution in Iran, the Iran-Iraq war, the numbers of Armenians in these countries dwindled, since many have emigrated to the USA, Canada, Great Britain, Germany, Sweden, Australia, New Zealand. Following the massacre of the Armenian population in Azerbaijan in the end of the 1980s, beginning of the 1990s the flow of refugees gushed not only into Armenia, but into Russia, Central Asia, the USA, certain countries of Europe. In the beginning of the 1990s the emigration of Armenians also began out of Armenia, a country that was struck by the disastrous earthquake of 1988, landlocked by the blockade and suffering through an economic crisis. The Armenians of the Diaspora adjusted to the new conditions of life relatively quickly, they established themselves in the economic, social and cultural structures of host countries, created the conditions necessary for the preservation of their identity. It is said that wherever at least three Armenians settle, they build a church, open a school and begin considering the publication of a daily paper. Let us leave this apparent exaggeration aside, but the truth of the matter is that the activity of the Armenian Apostolic church, the development of the national school, the operation of various ethnic organizations and the publication of national newspapers are truly the principal factors ensuring the ongoing identity of Armenians. The onset of the Karabagh movement and the proclamation of independence of Armenia provided powerful incentives for the awakening of Armenians in the Diaspora. History has now presented a unique window of opportunity for attaining the unity of the entire Armenian nation through the consolidation of its three constituent entities: the Republic of Armenia, the Republic of Nagorno-Karabagh and the Spiurk. The question on the number of Armenians in the modern world defies an exact answer. The absence of reliable information on the numbers of Armenians in individual countries makes us revert to approximate estimations mostly available in the printed media. These estimations allow us to believe that the total number of Armenians in the modern world is between 8 and 8.5 millions.The most populous Armenian communities are in Russia (up to 1.8 mln), the USA (up to 1 mln), Georgia (430 thousand), France (400 thousand), Iran (180 thousand), 151 ARMENIA Syria (between 120 and 130 thousand), Lebanon (120 thousand), Canada (65 thousand), Argentina (80 thousand) and other countries. There is a multitude of social, political, benevolent, cultural, sports and compatriotic organizations in operation in the Armenian Diaspora. The organizations of the Armenian political parties Ramkavar-Azatakan, Social-Democratic Hnchakian and the Armenian Revolutionary Federation Dashnaktsoutyun are active in some of the foreign Armenian communities. Almost all communities have chapters of the Armenian General Benevolent Union (founded in 1906), the most authoritative organization of the Spiurk. It maintains schools, university chairs of Armenian studies, academic centres in many communities of the Armenian Diaspora. The leading among cultural associations are the National cultural union (Hamazgain) and the Tekeyan cultural association. The many compatriotic societies continue to do significant work, the earliest among these emerged by the turn of the last century. The divisions of the Pan-Armenian Hayastan Fund operate in many communities of the Armenian Diaspora. It is a fundraising organization trying to attract foreign Armenians to the implementation of economic and charity programmes of the Fund in Armenia as well as in Artsakh. With the sovereign Republic of Armenia coming to existence the Fatherland/Spiurk relations have embarked on a qualitatively new stage. The re-establishment of an independent state was a source of satisfaction for all layers of the Armenian Spiurk, they understood that new opportunities are opening up for attaining the unity of the entire nation, resolving national issues. The certain inevitable discrepancy in attitudes and the assessment of events transpiring in Armenia does not prevent the Diaspora circles from coming up in unison in what matters most: the establishment of sovereign Armenia is viewed as the axial event of the modern history of the nation, the rightful conclusion of the national liberation struggle. Our account of Armenia is over. Of course no narrative can substitute personal exposure to Armenia, an eternally young and at the same time ancient country that cherishes its centuries-old traditions and looks ahead with ambition. 152 M I S C E L LA N E O U S DATA A N D USEFUL TIDBITS THE RIGHTS AND OBLIGATIONS OF FOREIGN NATIONALS IN THE REPUBLIC OF ARMENIA, THE PROCEDURE FOR ENTRY AND EXIT, RESIDENCE PERMITS Pursuant to the Law of the Republic of Armenia of 17/06/1994 On the legal status of foreign citizens in the Republic of Armenia foreign nationals in the Republic of Armenia enjoy the rights and freedoms stipulated by the rules of international law and the legislation of the Republic of Armenia. They must comply with the laws of the Republic of Armenia, respect the customs and national traditions of its people. Entry and exit The entry into the Republic of Armenia is exercised on the basis of an entry visa issued by relevant bodies of the Ministry of foreign affairs of the Republic of Armenia and, on border checkpoints (and in the airports) by the relevant bodies of the Ministry of interior of the Republic of Armenia or, alternatively, pursuant to a procedure defined by international agreements of the Republic of Armenia. In order to receive an entry visa to the Republic of Armenia it is necessary to fill out a questionnaire of a stipulated format and submit the required documents. The following types of entry visas may be issued: a) transit for a period of up to three days b) tourist for a period of up to twenty one days c) long-term for a period of up to three months d) diplomatic for the period of service (posting). The diplomatic and tourist visas are single entry, while the transit and long-term visas are multiple entry permits. The expiry date of an entry visa may be extended on the territory of the Republic of Armenia by the relevant bodies of the Ministry of interior (MI) of the Republic of Armenia or, outside of Armenia, by the relevant bodies of the Ministry of foreign affairs (MFA) of the Republic of Armenia not more than twice 153 ARMENIA for the duration of one third of the initial period each time. The issuance of an entry visa may be denied, of which the applicant shall be notified. Upon entering the Republic of Armenia a foreign national should present on a border guard checkpoint the entry visa, an internationally recognized travel document (passport), fill in a customs declaration and comply with the customs requirements. The exit of a foreign national from the Republic of Armenia may be prevented in the following cases: a) until the completion of inquest if a criminal case that has been instigated against him/her b) until the sentence is served or waived if he/she is convicted of an offence c) until the execution of the court verdict or ruling or a waiver thereof if a court verdict or ruling exists with respect to him/her. The registration of a foreign national by the latters domicile is carried out by the bodies of the MI on the basis of documents affirming his/her right of residence in the Republic of Armenia as well as the right to take up residential space. The registration of a foreign national residing in a hotel, retreat, spa, sanatorium or a tourist or similar lodge shall be carried out by respective institutions. The Republic of Armenia has concluded mutual no-visa entry re- gime agreements with the CIS countries (with no invitations required), Bulgaria, Hungary, Romania, Cuba (invitations required: official from institutions and private processed by the MFA of the Republic of Armenia). Rights and obligations of foreign nationals A foreign national in the Republic of Armenia is entitled to: freedom of speech, conscience and profession preserve his/her national language, culture and customs the same protection of law against illicit violation of privacy and intrusion into family life, same recourse to a court of law against attempts at the inviolability of a person and a home, privacy of correspondence, honor and dignity, personal freedom and property as an Armenian national to possess property, to work an engage in entrepreneurial operations according to a procedure stipulated by the legislation of the Republic of Armenia. A foreign national in the Republic of Armenia may consummate or dissolve a marriage in a procedure stipulated by the legislation of the Republic of Armenia and is entitled to the same rights and subject to the same obligations in matrimony as an Armenian national. 154 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S A foreign national in the Republic of Armenia: pays taxes, duties and other mandatory payments is denied suffrage, may not be a member to any social political organization of the Republic of Armenia, may not be elected or appointed to posts or engage in activities for which the legislation of the Republic of Armenia requires the possession of Armenian nationality is not subject to conscription to serve in the armed forces of the Republic of Armenia in the exercise of his/her rights enjoys all guarantees stipulated for the exercise of the rights of the nationals of the Republic of Armenia. The exercise of their rights and freedoms by foreign nationals should not harm the rights and freedoms of the nationals of the Republic of Armenia, other persons, the public order, general well-being, national security of the Republic of Armenia. A foreign national in the Republic of Armenia is responsible against the law in the same manner as a national of the Republic of Armenia with the exception of cases stipulated in the international agreements and the legislation of the Republic of Armenia. In the event of violation of the stipulated order of sojourn at the Republic of Armenia, a stay without documents affirming the right of residence or with void documents, the violation of the stipulated procedure for registration, failure to exit the Republic of Armenia upon the expiry of a residence permit or an entry visa, failure to comply with customs regulations a foreign national shall bear the responsibility defined by the legislation of the Republic of Armenia. A foreign national possessing a residence permit in the Republic of Armenia is entitled, in the same manner as a national of the Republic of Armenia, to inherit, to bequeath or give his/her property, to avail himself/herself of insurance and other services, to be a member to charity, cultural, union, sports and other non-governmental organizations, unless such membership is contrary to the charters of organizations in question, without the right to hold office in their management, may be a member to international organizations operating in the Republic of Armenia. The residence permit entitles a foreign national to enter and exit the Republic of Armenia. A foreign national possessing a temporary, common or special residence permit is entitled to invite his/ her immediate relatives to the Republic of Armenia. The right of a foreign national possessing a special residence permit 155 ARMENIA to invite other persons to the Republic of Armenia shall be regulated by international agreement. Residence permits, the procedure of receipt thereof in the Republic of Armenia There are four types of residence permits: temporary, common, special and particular. 1. The temporary residence permit is granted to foreign nationals that enter the Republic of Armenia on a contractual basis or with private motivation, to students enrolled in public and religious educational institutions of the Republic of Armenia, to persons possessing a refugee status, as well as to foreign journalists, researchers and persons invited to perform social or religious service. Temporary residence permits are issued for a period of up to one year, to be renewed each time for a period not to exceed one year. Temporary residence permits are processed by the MI of the Republic of Armenia pursuant to a procedure defined by the government of the Republic of Armenia. A foreign national having a temporary residence permit is reserved the right to work. The number of entries and exits is unlimited. Upon each exit the foreign national pays the fee against an entry permit on a border checkpoint of the Republic of Armenia. The entry permit fee is waived for foreign students. A foreign national having a temporary residence permit is reserved the right once during his/her stay to import a vehicle for personal use. A foreign national having a temporary residence permit may not default on or alter the purpose of his/her sojourn without the permission of the MI of the Republic of Armenia. 2. The common residence permit may be granted to foreign nationals upon their application. The following foreign nationals enjoy priority in acquiring it: a) those who have legitimately resided in the Republic of Armenia for more than three years b) former nationals of the Republic of Armenia or immediate relatives (spouse, child, father, mother, sister, brother) of a national of the Republic of Armenia c) graduates of public or licensed private higher educational institutions of the Republic of Armenia d) those possessing a refugee status. A common residence permit is granted for a period of up to three years, which may be extended. A common residence permit is processed by the MI of the Republic of Armenia pursuant to a procedure defined by the government of the Republic of Armenia. A foreign national having a temporary residence permit is reserved 156 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S the right to work, to receive social insurance, engage in entrepreneurial operations, avail himself/herself of insurance services. He/she works on contract. His/her term of work expires along with the expiry of the period of sojourn. Within three months following the receipt of a common residence permit its holder may import into the Republic of Armenia free of duty personal articles, one vehicle for personal use, household items. In the event of importing other property customs duty shall be levied in a stipulated manner. A holder of a common residence permit must undergo annual re-registration, may not be absent from the Republic of Armenia for more than six months within every year without a written permission from the MI of the Republic of Armenia, provided such absence does not exceed the period of one continual year. A foreign national who has resided in the Republic of Armenia for more than three years with a common residence permit may apply to receive citizenship of the Republic of Armenia. 3. The special residence permit is granted to foreign nationals of Armenian origin. It may be also granted to other foreign nationals engaging in economic or cultural activity in the Republic of Armenia. The special residence permit is granted for a period of ten years. It may be granted more than once. Foreign nationals soliciting a special residence permit shall submit to the diplomatic or consular missions of the Republic of Armenia abroad and, in Armenia, to the MI of the Republic of Armenia, an application to the President of the Republic of Armenia, they fill out a questionnaire of a stipulated format and submit the required documents. The recipient of a special residence permit is issued a special passport of the Republic of Armenia. A fee is charged against such a passport in the amount determined by the government of the Republic of Armenia. A foreign national may reapply for a special residence permit upon the expiry of a period of one year from the date of rejection of his/her preceding application. A person with a special residence permit in the Republic of Armenia is reserved the right to work, engage in entrepreneurial operations according to a procedure stipulated by the legislation of the Republic of Armenia for holders of common residence permits. He/she receives a waiver of the entry visa fee, must undergo annual re-registration with the diplomatic or consular missions of the Republic of Armenia abroad and, on the territory of the Republic of Armenia, with the respective body of the MI of the Republic of Armenia. 157 ARMENIA 4. The particular residence permit is granted to foreign national that are employees of diplomatic or consular missions of foreign states in the Republic of Armenia and to their family members for the period of their posting, as well as to foreign nationals that are employees of international organizations. The rights and obligations of foreign nationals holding particular residence permits are defined by the international agreements of the Republic of Armenia, the laws of the Republic of Armenia and the resolutions of the government of the Republic of Armenia. The foreign national holding a particular residence permit is entitled to personal immunity pursuant to the international agreements and the legislation of the Republic of Armenia. BUSINESS INFORMATION During the almost 70 years preceding the establishment of independence in 1991, the economy of the Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic was integrated with the market of the USSR and was based on developed industry. Following 1991 in view of a number of reasons (the shrinking of traditional markets because of the collapse of the USSR, the introduction of market economy etc.) the economy of the country underwent a sharp decline. Trying to stabilize the situation in the economy and ensure its rehabilitation and further growth, the government of the young republic developed a program of mac- roeconomic stabilization and structural transformations, that received the endorsement of foreign donors. Structural transformations in the banking and finance sectors were asked for to ensure the transition to market economy. In April, 1993, the Parliament adopted the laws On the Central Bank of the Republic of Armenia and On banks and banking operations, which began to regulate the operation of the Central Bank and commercial banks and set the foundations for an independent banking system. With the breakdown of the financial markets of the former 158 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S USSR the need for independent financial and loan policies increased. An important step in this direction was taken in 1993 with the introduction of the national currency: the dram. The exchange rate of the dram to the US dollar was initially set at 14.3. In March, 1994, it had climbed to 230 drams and was 400 drams by the end of the year. The exchange rate of the dram has remained relatively stable thereafter, fluctuating within the range of 400 to 410 drams for a US dollar in 1995, 410450 drams in 1996, 450500 drams in 1997, 500 drams in 1998 (as of May) and 540 drams in July 1999. The system of taxation is regulated pursuant to the law On taxes and duties in the Republic of Armenia. The following taxes and duties apply: the profit (corporation) tax, levied on the income of legal persons; the income tax, levied on the the income of natural persons; the excise tax, levied on the sale of certain goods; the value added tax, levied on the sale turnover of goods and services; the social tax, levied on wages and income deemed to be the same as wages; the land tax, levied on propri- etors of land; the profession tax, levied on individuals who engage in certain professions; the property tax, levied on certain types of property; the environmental tax, levied against the use of natural resources and pollution of the environment. There are state duties payable against legal and other services, customs duties on exporting and importing goods, as well as other duties and payments. Enterprises with foreign investment participation and local enterprises are subject to taxation by the same schedule, with the exception of the profit tax, on which foreign investors are granted preferences. The profit tax is levied on the profit of enterprises that possess the status of a legal person. The tax schedule is set at 12, 18, 25 and 30 percent of the profit depending on the annual amount of taxable profit (TP) to be calculated in the following manner: TP = gross income less the value added tax (VAT), less the excise tax, less expenses and other taxes. Newly created enterprises including foreign ones are freed from the payment of the profit tax within the two years immediately succeeding their state registration. The profit 159 ARMENIA tax on enterprises with foreign investment is levied at reduced rates from the beginning of the third through the tenth year following their registration. In the event of the liquidation of the enterprise prior to the expiry of the three year period, the amount of the profit tax shall be levied in full for that period. In the event of the liquidation of the enterprise prior to the expiry of the fifth year, the amount of the profit tax shall be back levied in full for the entire period of its operation. The income tax is levied on the income of natural persons. The object of taxation is income received from the execution of labour and civil-legal contracts, entrepreneurial operations, lease of property, share participation, securities, deposits, authors royalties, receipt of gifts and assistance etc. The monthly tax schedule is set at 15, 25 and 30 percent depending on the amount of income. A deduction is allowed from the tax payable in Armenia in the amount of the tax paid in another country. Foreign nationals permanently residing in Armenia (for over 183 days within a calendar year) are subject to taxation by the same schedule as Armenian nationals. The excise tax is an indirect tax included in the price of goods and services. it is payed by enterprises, institutions, organizations and individuals that produce and sell liquor, tobacco, jewellery, costume jewellery, furs, fur and leather garments, tires, crystal and china, hand-woven carpets. The tax is also levied on those importing these goods into the Republic of Armenia from countries that are not members of the former USSR. The value added tax (VAT). Added value is the balance between the value of sold goods, performed work and rendered services and the value of material resources, fuel, work and services, fixed assets and intangibles that is recorded as production and turnover cost. The VAT rate is 20 percent. The VAT shall be waived for the following: financial mediation; sale of pharmaceuticals, orthopaedic and prosthetic devices; construction work performed by foreign and international NGOs or religious organizations or on the expense of the communities of the Armenian Diaspora; operations pertaining to the turnover of foreign currency, cash, banknotes, securities (with the exception of broker and other mediation securities); sale of agricultural produce; operations of insurance and reinsurance as well as those pertaining to deposits of funds, settlement, current and other accounts; school textbooks, copy-books and sale thereof; operations pertaining to the receipt and 160 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S issuance of patents, copyright and licenses; publicly funded R&D and related academic work as well as a number of other types of goods, services and work. Along with the stabilization of the countrys economy conditions were established by the end of 1994 for conducting liberal foreign trade policy. The restrictions imposed on it before were lifted, export duties were recalled and import tariffs were lowered. The Harmonised System of Tariff Classification is in effect in Armenia. Customs tariffs are charged ad valorem applied to CIF. The tariffs are either 0 or 10%. The 10% tariff rate is predominantly applied to consumer goods and luxury items. License requirements, import quotas and bans are waived for most of the imports. With the purpose of protecting the security, health and the environment restrictions exist on licensing the importation of weapons and components for the production thereof, explosives and radioactive substances, poisons, narcotics, pornographic materials, strong hallucinogenic and narcotic substances and devices. A permission of the Ministry of health is required for the importation of pharmaceuticals, and a permission of the Ministry of agriculture is required for the importation of agricultural chemicals. As a member of the World Customs Organization Armenia uses the customs valuation methodology based on the provisions of the GATT agreement of 1994. Customs payments against imports and exports are charged at the rate of one thousand AMD per metric ton of freight. The payments are waived for temporary imports, supplies in the framework of governmental loans, clearing operations pursuant to international agreements, importation of building materials for construction pursuant to bilateral agreements wit the CIS countries, goods purchased at the expense of the state budget, and humanitarian assistance. Exportation out of the territory of the Republic of Armenia by individuals of goods and other items is free from customs duties. Individuals may import into the customs territory of the Republic of Armenia duty free personal articles, as well as goods and other items of the total cost equivalent to 500 US 161 ARMENIA dollars, with the exception of alcoholic beverages, limited by 2 litres, and tobacco, limited by 50 packs. The amount of individually imported goods and items in excess of the value or quantity stated above shall be taxed by customs duty pursuant to the norms defined by law. Individuals arriving in the Republic of Armenia for permanent residence may import their property duty free. Nationals of the Republic of Armenia may import into the Republic of Armenia duty free property inherited abroad. No supporting documents are required for individually taking out of the country the amount up to 10 thousand US dollars. The importation of currency is unlimited. The Parliament of the Republic of Armenia has adopted a number of laws that regulate the development of the private sector and establishing a market oriented business environment. The Civil Code of RA (adepted by the National Assembly on May 5, 1998, effective as of June 17, 1998) outlines the forms of business organisation and regulates entrepreneurial operations on the territory of the country. The privatisation and denationalization of state-owned en- terprises and unfinished construction sites is in process since 1991. The respective law allows the foreigners the right to participate in the process of privatisation. As of January, 1988, 65% of medium and large enterprises and 90% of small facilities have been privatised in Armenia. In 1991, in the result of the privatisation of land the preceding system of collective and public farms was liquidated. By the end of 1994 69% of cultivable land, 79.6% of perennial plantations and 44.1% of hayfields was disbursed to the new owners. 20% of the land is still controlled by the state for further disbursement. 350 thousand heads of cattle was sold to private owners. 30% of the remaining property was also privatised (immovables, vehicles, machines and equipment). The law on foreign investment defines the legal rules, guarantees and incentives for foreign investors. This law also regulates the terms of investments by Armenian nationals permanently residing abroad. The law stipulates the following incentives and guarantees for foreign investors: 162 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S the legal regime for foreign investors and its implementation may not be less favourable than the same regime for locals in the event of changes in the legislation in effect at the time of the investment, foreign investors shall be granted a five year grace period foreign investors are re- served the right to repatriate their profit, their property and other legitimately accrued assets foreign investors are free from the payment of customs duties on property imported for use in their production other incentives and guarantees exist. 163 ARMENIA TRANSPORT AND COMMUNICATIONS Air transport Air transport is the most convenient medium for arriving to Armenia. International flights operate from the airports of Zvartnots and Erebouni in Yerevan and Shirak in Gyumri. The international Zvartnots airport of Yerevan is the hub for most of the planes arriving to Ar- means the airport can accept and release aircraft under any weather conditions. The upgrading of the technical capacity and the quality of service at the Zvartnots airport carries on. The construction of a modern cargo terminal with the capacity of 80 thousand metric tons of freight has just been completed. The Zvartnots airport of Yerevan menia, it has been granted a certificate of fitness for operation in minimal meteorological conditions of the International Civil Aeronautics Organization (ICAO) of the 2nd category, this Local airfields exist in all ten major cities of Armenia. Domestic flights out of Yerevan take place out of the Erebouni airport on helicopters or small planes. 164 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S Distance in kilometers between Yerevan and Aleppo Amsterdam Ankara 989 3,796 1,112 Delhi Dublin Hamburg 3,315 4,550 3,380 Rio de Janeiro 10,725 Rome 2,810 San Francisco 14,560 Antananarivo Athens Baghdad Baku 6,650 1,850 845 550 Helsinki Istanbul Jakarta Lisbon 2,860 1,715 8,190 4,745 Singapore Sofia St. Petersburg Stepanakert 7,430 1,885 2,470 225 Beijing Beirut Belgrade Berlin Berne 6,240 1,105 2,210 2,990 3,315 London Los Angeles Madrid Mexico city Moscow 4,030 14,430 3,705 13,520 1,850 Stockholm Tbilissi Tehran Tokyo Varna 3,120 278 810 8,450 1,867 10,270 3,835 2,795 Vienna Vladivostok Warsaw 2,405 7,345 2,450 5.850 2,210 Washington Wellington 10,465 14,690 Budapest Buenos Aires Cairo 2,405 12,545 1,625 Ottawa Paris Prague Canberra Damascus 12,870 1,040 Reykjavik Riga Armenia is connected by air routes to the following destinations: (as of July, 1999) Armenian Airlines (Zvartnots airport of Yerevan) Aleppo Kiev Saint Petersburg Amsterdam Milan Samara Ashgabad Minsk Simferopol Athens Moscow Sochi Beirut Nijni Novgorod Sofia Dubai Novosibirsk Tashkend Frankfurt am Main Odessa Tbilissi Istanbul Paris Tehran Volgograd 165 ARMENIA Armenian Airlines (Erebouni airport of Yerevan) Anapa Mineralniye Vodi Stavropol Kharkov Rostov Vladikavkaz Krasnodar Saratov Armenian Airlines (Shirak airport of Gyumri) Krasnodar Moscow Mineralniye Vodi Rostov Samara Other airlines (Zvartnots airport of Yerevan) Anapa Lvov Saint Petersburg Astrakhan Lugansk Samara Chelyabinsk Maikop Saratov Dneprodzrzhinsk Mineralniye Vodi Simferopol Donetsk Minsk Sochi Ekaterinburg Moscow Stavropol Izhevsk Nijniy Novgorod Tehran Kharkov Novosibirsk Ufa Kiev Odessa Volgograd Krasnodar Orenbourg Voronezh Krasnoyarsk Perm Zaporozhye London Rostov Zürich It should be noted that the Summer and Winter flight schedules are different. The local time is ahead of UTC/GMT by 5 hours in Summer and 4 hours in Winter. Time zone chart (The Summer time difference is noted in the parenthesis) Algiers Argentina Armenia Australia, Melbourne Bahamas +1 -3(-2) +4(+5) +10(+11) -5(-4) 166 India Indonesia, Jakarta Iran Ireland Israel +5.5 +7 +3.5(+4.5) UTC(+1) +2(+3) M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S Bermuda -4(-3) Bolivia -4 Brazil, Rio -3(-2) Bulgaria UTC(+1) China, Beijing +8(+9) Chile New Zealand -5(-4) Egypt +2(+3) Northern, Central Georgia Greece +8 Romania +2(+3) Russia, Moscow +3(+4) +3 South Africa +2 Thailand +7 +1(+2) Tunisia +1 +2(+3) Turkey +2(+3) +3(+4) Great Britain +12(+13) Saudi Arabia Europe, Western, Finland -6 UTC Philippines -5 Cuba +8 Morocco -4(-3) Colombia +9 Malaysia Mexico, Mexico city +2(+3) Canary Islands Japan USA: UTC(+1) +2 New York -5(-4) San Francisco -8(-7) Railways The total length of the Armenian railway network is 829 kilometers, 90% of it is electrified. One rail line connects Armenia with Georgia (to the Black Sea ports of Batumi and Poti, as well as to Russia and Europe), two lines with Azerbaijan (to Russia and Europe) and one line with Turkey. The rail lines to Azerbaijan and Turkey are currently inoperational. 167 The Yerevan railway station ARMENIA Highways The total length of Armenian highways is 7,700 kilometers. The length of interstate highways is 1,400 kilometers, of regional highways 2,520 kilometers, of local highways 3,720 kilometers. 98% of the interstate and 77% of the remaining highways are paved. Practically all of the countrys settlements are interconnected with asphalt roads. Intercity bus lines operate out of Yerevan, connecting it to all major cities of the country, to the towns and villages of Nagorno Karabagh, Georgia and Iran. The road from Yerevan to the capital of Nagorno Karabagh Stepanakert takes 7 hours, to the capital of Georgia Tbilissi up to 6 hours, to the Iranian border (the town of Meghri) up to 9 hours. The surface roads to Azerbaijan and Turkey are currently inoperational. The highway to Dilijan The principal currently functioning interstate highways are the following: Yerevan-Ashtarak-Aparan-Spitak-Stepanavan-Tashir-the Georgian border (to Tbilissi) Ye r e v a n -A s h t a r a k- G y u m r i Ashotsk-the Georgian border (to the Black Sea ports of Batumi and Poti) Yerevan-Yeraskh-Vaik- GorisKapan-Meghri-the Iranian border (to Iran and the Middle East). European traffic regulations are in effect in Armenia. The traffic is right-sided. Highway mileage from Yerevan to Abovian 16 Alaverdi 191 Vagharshapat 21 Vanadzor 145 168 Kapan 320 Martouni 130 Aparan 59 Vardenis Meghri 393 Ararat 48 Gavar 98 Noyemberian 191 Armavir 48 Geghard 31 Hrazdan 168 50 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S Artashat Goris 250 Sevan 66 105 Gyumri 120 Sissian 217 Ashtarak 20 Jermuk 173 Spitak 100 Ashotsk 165 Dilijan 109 Stepanavan 157 350 Artik 29 Berd 211 Yeghegnadzor 122 Stepanakert Vaik 139 Ijevan 142 Talin Tbilissi Yerevan City transport Almost all types of city transport operate in Yerevan: bus, trolley bus, streetcar, subway, cable car, taxi service. Almost 90% of the population uses the city transport, up to 250 thousand people use the subway every year. The tariff rate (as of December, 1998) for one trip on municipal or public transport (bus, trolley bus, streetcar, subway, cable car) irrespective of distance travelled is 30 to 50 drams, on taxivan (minibus) 75 drams. The rates for private service are: buses up to 50 drams, taxivan (minibus) up to 100 drams. Depending on the route the time interval between service on individual 74 270 stops varies between 15 minutes in daytime and 30 minutes late in the evening. The subway in Yerevan operates since 1981, there are 10 stations, two more are under construction. The subway operates between 06:30 and 23:00. The fare is paid directly to the driver upon exit or to the conductor upon entry. The subway and cable car tokens and tickets are sold at the entrance to the stations. TAXI: The fare is between 100 and 200 drams per 1 kilometer, depending on the direction, the make of the vehicle and the time of the day. The taxi stops have free cabs available almost throughout the day. Transport terminals of Yerevan (airports, railway stations, international bus terminals, cable car terminals) Zvartnots airport Parakar district Erebouni airport Arshakunyats ave. 169 tel: 282066 tel/fax:151123, 282641 tel: 440335 ARMENIA Central bus terminal Admiral Issakov Str. tel: 562931 Northern bus terminal Tbilissi highway tel: 260666 Local bus terminal Sassountsi David square Yerevan rail station Sassountsi David square tel: 525920 Arabkir rail station 1a Arabkir 29th Str. tel: 252034 Karmir Blour rail station 95 Araratian Str. tel: 482636 Noragavit rail station Noragavit district Kanaker rail station 112 Z. Kanakertsi Str. tel: 283402 Lower cable car term. 2 Mkhitar Heratsi Str. tel: 550352 Upper cable car term. 66 Amaranotsain Str. tel: 573594 Underground stations Barekamoutyun (Friendship) 76 Marshal Baghramian Ave. Marshal Baghramian 21/1 Marshal Baghramian Ave. Yeritasardakan (Youth) 3 Avetik Issahakian Str. Hanrapetoutyan Hraparak (Republic Square) Hanrapetoutyan square Zoravar Andranik (Commander Andranik) Tigran Mets ave. Sassountsi David Sassountsi David square Gortsaranain (Factory) 3 Bagratounyats Str. Shengavit 9 Soghomon Tarontsi Str. Garegin Nzhdeh hraparak (Garegin Nzhdeh square) Garegin Nzhdeh square Charbakh 62 Araratian Str. Ajapnyak (under construction) Karo Halabian Str. Tasnhing taghamas (15th district, under construction) 1 Gyumrii Str. 170 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S TELECOMMUNICATIONS Telephone There are 45 interconnected automatic electromechanical telephone exchanges in operation in the country. Presently work is underway jointly with foreign companies to upgrade the technology and improve a number of exchanges, which will result in better domestic and long distance telephone service. The long distance service is provided through the Intelsat satellite link, AT&T, Teleglobe, Sprint, British Telecom, France Tel and the microwave The central post office in Yerevan radiolink of the Moscow telephone exchange. Domestic area codes In Armenia 0+ from the CIS from elsewhere Yerevan 2 8852 3742 Abovian 61 88561 37461 930 885930 374930 46 88546 37446 Agarak (former Meghri region) Aghavnadzor (Vayots Dzor) Aintap 62 8562 37462 Alaverdi 73 88573 37473 Amassia 510 885510 374510 Aparan 520 885520 374520 Aragats 480 88580 37480 171 ARMENIA Aramous 61 88561 37461 Ararat 78 88578 37478 Arevshat 45 88545 37445 Armash 78 88578 37478 Armavir (Hoktemberian) 47 88547 37447 Artashat 45 88545 37445 Artik 44 88544 37444 Ashotsk (Ghoukassian) 53 88553 37453 Ashtarak 43 88543 37443 Aygezard 45 88545 37445 Baghramian 33 88533 37433 Berd 71 88571 37471 Charentsavan 31 88531 37431 Dalar 45 88545 37445 Dilijan 720 885720 374720 64 88564 37464 Getap 46 88546 37446 Goris 91 88591 37491 Gyumri (Leninakan) 69 88569 37469 Hrazdan 67 88567 37467 Ijevan 63 88563 37463 Jambarak (Krasnoselsk) 65 88565 37465 Jermouk 77 88577 37477 Kapan 92 88592 37492 Maralik 42 88542 37442 Martouni 74 88574 37474 Massis 62 88562 37462 Meghri 930 88530 37430 Mkhchian 45 88545 37445 Nairi (Yeghvard) 68 88568 37468 Nor-Geghi 68 88568 37468 Nor-Hajn 68 88568 37468 Nor-Kharbert 62 88562 37462 Noyemberian 66 88566 37466 Gavar (Kamo) 172 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S Oshakan Sevan Shahoumian Shinuayr Sissian Sourenavan Spitak Stepanavan Talin Taperakan Tashir (Kalinino) Tsakhkadzor Vagharshapat (Ejmiatsin) Vaik (Azizbekov) Vanadzor (Kirovakan) Vardenis Vedi Yeghegnadzor Yeraskh 43 76 45 91 750 78 55 560 490 78 54 35 59 79 57 58 41 46 78 88543 88576 88545 88591 885750 88578 88555 885560 885490 88578 88554 88535 88559 88579 88575 88558 88541 88546 88578 37443 37476 37445 37491 374750 37478 37455 374560 374490 37478 37454 37435 37459 374 37457 37458 37441 37446 37478 Foreign city codes Abu Dhabi 971-2 Addis Ababa 251-1 Adelaide Aleppo Alexandria Algeirs Florence 39-55 New York 1-212 Frankfurt am Main 49-69 Nice 61-8 Fresno 1-209 Nicosia 963-21 Geneva 41-22 Novi Sad 3821 Genoa 39-10 Osaka 81-6 Oslo 47-2 20-3 213-2 Gibraltar 350 33-93 357-21 Amman 962-6 Glasgow 441-41 Ottawa Amsterdam 31-20 Glendale 1-818 Panama 90-4 G teborg 46-31 Paris 30-1 Guadalajara 52-36 Philadelphia 1-215 Ankara Athens Baghdad 964-1 Havana 53-7 1-613 507 33-1 Plovdiv 259-32 Bangkok 66-2 The Hague 31-70 Poznan 48-61 Barcelona 34-3 Hamburg 49-40 Prague 42-2 173 ARMENIA Basle Beijing 41-61 86-1 Beirut 961-1 Belfast 441-232 Hanover 49-511 Hong Kong 852 Pretoria 27-12 Quebec city 1-418 593-2 Haifa 972-4 Quito Harare 263-0 Reykjavik 354-1 Belgrade 38-11 Helsinki 358-0 Rio de Janeiro 55-21 Berlin 49-30 Houston 1-713 Riyadh 699-1 Berne 41-61 Isfahan 98-31 Rome Islamabad 92-51 Rotterdam 31-10 Birmingham 441-21 Bogota 57-1 Salvador 55-71 Bologna 39-51 Izmir 90-51 San Francisco 1-415 Bombay 91-22 Jakarta 62-21 San Marino Jerusalem 972-2 Santiago 56-2 Johannesburg 27-31 Sao Paulo 55-21 Karachi 92-21 Sarajevo 38-71 Bonn Boston Bratislava 49-228 1-617 42-7 Istanbul 90-212 39-6 39 Brazilia 55-61 Lagos 234-1 Seattle 1-206 Bremen 49-421 La Paz 591-2 Seoul 82-2 Bristol 441-179 Lahore 92-42 Brussels 32-1 Liverpool Bucharest 40-1 Leeds 441-132 Budapest 36-1 Lima 51-14 Buenos Aires 54-1 Lion 33-7 Burgas Cairo 359-56 20-2 Lisbon Lausanne 441-51 Shanghai Sidney Singapore 86-21 61-2 65 Skopje 38-91 Sofia 359-2 351-1 Stockholm 41-21 Stuttgart 46-8 49-711 Calgary 1-403 London 441-71 Tabriz 98-41 Canberra 61-62 Los Angeles 1-213, Tehran 98-21 Calcutta 91-33 Capetown 27-21 Caracas 58-2 Cardiff 1-818, 1-310 Ljubljana Luxembourg 38-61 Tel Aviv 972-3 Thessaloniki 30-31 352 Tokyo 81-3 39-11 441-222 Madras 91-44 Torino Chicago 1-312 Madrid 34-10 Toronto 1-416 Colombo 94-1 Manchester 441-61 Toulouse 33-61 45-1 Manila Copenhagen Cracow 48-12 Dakkar 221 63-2 Tunis 216-1 Marseilles 33-91 Valetta 356-24 Mashhad 98-51 Vancouver 174 1-604 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S Dallas Damascus Delhi Detroit Dhaka Dubai Dublin Düsseldorf Edinburgh 1-214 963-11 91-11 1-313 880-2 971-437 353-1 49-211 441-31 Melbourne Mexico city Milan Monaco Montevideo Montreal Munich Nairobi Naples 61-3 52-5 39-2 33 598-2 1-514 49-89 254-2 39-81 Varna Vatican Venice Vienna Warsaw Washington Wroclaw Zagreb Zurich 359-52 396 39-41 43-1 48-22 1-202 48-31 38-41 41-1 Former USSR city codes 00+country code + Adler Akmola Aktyubinsk Almata Aloushta Anapa Andizhan Angarsk Archangelsk Ashgabad Astrakhan Baku Barnaul Batumi Belgorod Benderi Berdsk Bishkek Blagoveshensk Bratsk Brest Bryansk Bukhara Cheboksary 8622 31722 3132 3272 06560 86133 37422 39518 8182 3632 8512 8922 3852 88222 07222 04232 38341 3312 41624 3952 01622 0832 36522 8352 Kirov Kishineu Kislovodsk Klaipeda Kolomna Kostroma Kourgan Koursk Koustanay Koutaissi Krasnodar Krasnoyarsk Krivoy Rog Kyzyl-orda Lazarevskaya Liepaya Lipetsk Lougansk Loutsk Lvov Magadan Magnitogorsk Makhachkala Mariupol 175 8332 0422 86537 01261 09661 0942 35222 07122 3142 88331 8612 3912 0564 32422 8622 01334 0742 0642 03322 0322 41322 3511 87222 06292 Riga 0132 Rostov upon Don 8632 Rovno 03622 Ryazan 0912 Saint Petersburg 812 Samara 8462 Samarkand 36622 Saransk 83422 Saratov 8452 Sebastopol 069 Semipalatinsk 32222 Shaulyay 0121 Simferopol 06522 Smolensk 08122 Sochi 8622 Soukhoumi 88122 Sourgout 3462 Stavropol 8652 Stepanakert 89322 Syktivkar 82122 Taganrog 86344 Tallin 0142 Tambov 0752 ARMENIA Chekhov Chelyabinsk Cherkassy Chernigov Chernovtsi Chimkent Chita Dagomys Daugavpils Dneprodzerzhinsk Dnepropetrovsk Donetsk Doubna Dushanbe Ekaterinbourg Elektrostal Elista Essentouki Fergana Gomel Grodno Grozny Irkoutsk Ivanovo IvanovoFrankovsk Izhevsk Jambul Kaliningrad Kalouga Karaganda Kaunas Kazan Kemerovo Kerch 09672 3512 04722 04622 03722 32522 30222 8622 01354 05692 0562 0622 09621 3772 3432 09657 84722 86534 3732 0232 0152 87122 3952 0932 03422 34122 32622 0112 08422 3212 0127 8432 3842 06561 Maykop Mineralniye Vodi Minsk Mogilev Moscow Mourmansk Naberezhnye Chelni Nalchik Namangoun Narva Navoi Neftekamsk Nikolaev Nizhnekamsk Nizhniy Novgorod Novgorod Novocherkassk Novorossiysk Novosibirsk Odessa Omsk Orel Orenbourg Oulyanovsk Oust Kamenogorsk Ouzhgorod Palanga Pavlodar Penza Perm Petropavlovsk Kamchatskiy 176 87722 86531 0172 0222 095 8152 8439 86622 36922 01435 43622 34713 05122 84353 8312 81622 86352 86134 3852 0482 3812 0862 3532 8422 32322 03122 01236 31822 8412 3422 41522 Tartu Tashkent Tbilissi Ternopol Theodossia Tiraspol Togliatti Tomsk Toula Trakai Tuapse Tumen Turkmenbashi Tver Ufa Ulan Ude Uralsk Vilnius Vinnitsa Vitebsk Vladikavkaz Vladimir Vladivostok Volgograd Vologda Vorkuta Voronezh Yakoutsk Yalta Yaroslavl Yelabouga Yevpatoria Yoshkar Ola Yuzhno Sakhalinsk Yuzhnouralsk 0147 3712 8832 03500 06562 04233 8469 38222 0872 01238 86167 3452 4322 0822 3472 30122 31122 0122 04322 02122 86722 09222 4232 8442 81722 82151 0732 41122 0654 0852 84357 06569 8362 42422 35134 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S Khabrovsk Kharkov Kherson Khmelnitskiy Khosta Kiev 4212 0572 05522 03822 8622 044 Petrozavodsk Podolsk Poltava Pskov Pyarnu Pyatigorsk 81422 09675 05322 8112 01444 86333 Zagorsk 09654 Zaporozhie 0612 Zheleznovodsk86532 Zhitomir 04122 Long distance international phone tariffs (as of July, 1999) Domestic calls 20.0 drams per minute Long distance within the CIS from 220.0 (Russia, Georgia) to 440.0 (Uzbekistan) drams; European countries 1056.0 (UK, FRG, Luxembourg), Baltic countries 220 drams; the remaining countries from 1056.0 (the USA) to 1300.0 (Brazil, Singapore) drams Payphones for intracity and international calls operate by tokens as well as microchip phonecards available at post offices and newsstands. Mail tariffs (in drams, as of July, 1999) Domestic Weight postcard letter up to 200 g. 20 40 21100 g. 100 101250 g. 200 251500 g. 380 5011,000 g. 660 1,0012,000 g. 1,080 over 2,000 g. for every 1,000g. CIS countries book post postcard letter 30 60 120 210 350 490 110 170 440 980 1,943 3,550 6,250 260 book post 100 250 580 1,150 2,130 3,760 Other countries postcard 170 letter book post 250 625 1,330 2,660 4,810 8,310 140 340 750 1,450 2,640 4,491 2,250 2,580 Parcel tariffs are set individually for every country and are posted at post offices. The following post offices are designated for parcel service to foreign countries: ## 2, 6, 10, 14, 20, 56, 65 and 78 (parcels to the CIS countries are accepted at all post offices). Note: One US dollar = 540 Armenian drams (as of July, 1999). 177 ARMENIA Domestic mail codes Abovian 377911 Kajaran 377815 Agarak 378510 Kapan 377810 Akhourian 377530 Klageran 377300 Akhtala 377120 Loussakert 378564 Alaverdi 377130 Maralik 377640 Amassia 377560 Martouni 378710 Anipemza 377711 Massis 378334 Aparan 378450 Meghri 377910 Aragats (Tsaghkahovit) 378452 Meghrout 377277 Ararat 378222 Nairi (Yeghvard) 378414 Armavir (Hoktemberian) 377760 Nor Hajn 378519 Artashat 378240 Nor Kharberd 378336 Artik 377610 Noubarashen (Sovetashen) 375071 Arzni 378518 Noyemberian 377110 Ashotsk (Ghoukassian) 377540 Pemzashen 377611 Ashtarak 378410 Sevan 378610 Ayroum 377100 Sissian 378010 Berd 377010 Spitak 377410 Charentsavan 378562 Stepanavan 377320 Dastakert 378033 Talin 377340 Dilijan 377250 Tashir (Kalinino) 377133 Gagarin 378615 Toumanian 378552 Gavar (Kamo) 378630 Tsakhkadzor 378552 Goris 377830 Vagharshapat (Ejmiatsin) 378310 Gyumri (Leninakan) Vanadzor from 377500 to... (Kirovakan) from 377200 to... Hrazdan 378550 Vardenis Ijevan 277260 Vayk (Azizbekov) Jambarak (Krasnoselsk) 377290 Vedi 378210 Jermuk 378840 Yeghegnadzor 378140 Yerevan 178 378810 37811 from 37500 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S TOURISM, HOTELS, RESORTS Armenia is an attractive country for tourists. Since times immemorial travellers come here to acquaint themselves with the rich history, an- Hotel Dvin in Yerevan cient and modern monuments of architecture, urban development, culture, to climb mountain peaks, to rest and recuperate at spas. Most of the countrys natural landscapes have preserved their primordial beauty and purity. The fauna and flora of Armenia are diverse: over 3,000 species of plants, 450 species of vertebrates. 10 thousand species of insects, 1,000 species of invertebrates, 302 species of birds, 45 species of reptiles, 23 species of fish, 5 species of amphibia. Some of these are rare and are classified as endangered species. Armenia used to be one of the most visited republics of the former Soviet Union: in the 1980s 700 thousand tourists came to the republic every year. In view of economic difficulties of the recent years the flow of tourists has significantly declined. The capacity of the hotels also shrank since some of them were designated as temporary accommodation for the families that were left without shelter after the 1988 earthquake in Northern Armenia and for the refugees from Azerbaijan. Presently the hotels, resorts, pensions and spas are gradually freed from temporary residents, renovated and reclaimed by the tourist industry. New smaller private hotels are built. Hotel Armenia in Yerevan The further development of tourist industry that is so promising for Armenia requires substantial capital investment to be steered towards upgrading infrastructure. 179 ARMENIA Yerevan hotels hotel address telephone facsimile Armenia 1 Amirian Str., Yerevan, 375002 525393 525383 560844 151803 Ani 19 Sayat nova Str., Yerevan, 375010 520775 520724 523961 520545 Dvin 40 PAronian Str., Yerevan, 375002 536343 536480 151924 Erebouni 26/1 Nalbandian Str., Yerevan, 375010 564993 583815 Hrzdan 72 Dzorapi Str., Yerevan, 375002 535332 Shirak 13a Movses Khorenatsi Str. 529915 Arabkir 54b Komitas Str. 231990 Nairi 270 Amaranotsain Str. 652221 Yerevan 14 Abovian Str. 581392 Sevan 8 Khorhrdarani Str. 533108 Tsitsernak 18 G. Hovsepian Str. 653476 Sport Tsarav Aghbyuri Str. Sebastia 46 Leningradian Str. 537095 394700 Hye business Suits 8 Hanrapetootyan Str. 567567 151522 Bass 3 Aygedzor Str. 221353 222638 268975 151429 Arma 275 Norki Ayginer Str. 581843 654221 522779 Aviatrans 4 Abovian Str. 567228 567226 180 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S ARMENIAN RESORTS, SPAS There are over 7,500 sources of sweet water and 1,300 sources of mineral water in Armenia, most of them have healing properties. There are over 100 resorts, pensions and sanatoriums in different regions of Armenia located in forested and alpine areas: in Arzni, Hankavan, Aghveran, Byurakan, Dilijan, Jermuk, Ijevan, Sevan, Tsaghkadzor, in the regions of Zangezour, Gougark and others, including resorts placed on sources of mineral water. Apart from being pleasant table waters, the mineral waters of Armenia have healing properties and are recommended by doctors for the treatment of the following conditions: Hankavan recommended for disruptions of motility and secretory function of the stomach with hyper or low acidity, stomach ulcer, chronic colitis, enterocolitis, liver dysfunction etc; Ararat recommended for gastrointestinal conditions, gastritis, stomach and duodenal ulcer, dysfunction of the liver, gall-bladder, bile ducts; Arzni recommended for chronic catarrhs of the stomach and bowels, bile gravel; Bjni recommended for the treatment of gastrointestinal conditions, liver etc.; Jermuk recommended for jaundice, bile gravel, gall-bladder inflammation, stomach and bowel ulcer; Dilijan recommended for chronic catarrhs The Arzni resort of the stomach and bowels, inflammation of the gall-bladder, jaundice, cholecystopathy, hepatocholecistite, bile gravel etc.; Lijk recommended for chronic hepatitis and colitis; Lori recommended for conditions of digestive organs and, as baths for conditions of the peripheral nervous system, locomotor frame, the genitals; Sevan recommended for conditions of the gastrointestinal tract, the liver, bile ducts, and disruption of the metabolism. 181 ARMENIA THE CLIMATE. CLOTHING. TRADITIONAL COSTUMES Climate Dry, continental climate prevails in Armenia. The mountainous topography is determinant for the weather conditions. Within a stretch of 30 to 50 kilometers one may encounter several climatic zones succeeding each other. In most of the territory of the country the seasons break down as follows: Spring March, April, May; Summer June, June, July, August; Autumn September, October, November; Winter December, January, February. The average monthly temperature of the air in Yerevan is: in January -3.4 degrees C in February -0.9 in March +5.4 in April +12.4 in May +17.4 in June +21.6 in July +25.6 in August +25.3 in September +20.4 in October +13.5 in November +6.5 in December -0.1 average annual +12.0 The hottest months in the Ararat valley (Yerevan) are July and August, the temperature may rise up to +42 degrees Celsius (absolute maximum). The coldest months are January and February, the frost may get as low as -30 degrees Celsius (absolute minimum). The countrys absolute minimum was recorded on the shore of Arpi lake, -46 degrees Celsius. Precipitation is the most frequent in Spring and Autumn. In Winter it snows, in mountainous areas the snow cover may reach the height of two meters, in the Ararat valley (Yerevan) the snow cover does not stay for long. The average monthly precipitation in the Ararat valley (Yerevan) is: in January 24 mm in February 26 mm in March 32 mm in April 43 mm in May 52 mm in June 27 mm in July 13 mm in August 10 mm in September 13 mm in October 26 mm in November 28 mm in December 22 mm total annual 316 mm There are 328 sunny days in the year in the Ararat valley. 182 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S Clothing, traditional costumes Armenians have a great variety of traditional costumes. Every region of historical Armenia had its own unique style of clothing. Sometimes it was possible to judge the origin of a person, whether social or territorial, by the costume. Presently European attire prevails in Armenia. Senior citizens in Zangezour and Artsakh still wear traditional apparel. It is possible to form an opinion about Armenian traditional costume by visiting the museums or folkloric concerts. 183 A girl in a traditional costume plays the traditional Armenian instrument Kanon ARMENIA THE ARMENIAN ALPHABET ²³ u as in rub ØÙ m as in mall ´µ b as in ball ÚÛ y as in hay ¶· g as in gut ÜÝ n as in nanny ¸¹ d as in duck Þß sh as in shin º» ye as in yell àá vo or o as in ox ¼½ z as in zilch âã ch as in chalk ¾¿ e as in edge äå p as in spy ÀÁ u as in fur æç j as in jam Âà t as in tin èé r as in rubbish ÄÅ s as in pleasure êë s as in sky ÆÇ i as in ink ìí v as in veal ÈÉ l as in lock îï t as in sty ÊË ch as in Scottish Loch ðñ r as in far ÌÍ ts as in tsk òó ts as in tsunami ÎÏ k as in sky àõ áõ oo as in spook ÐÑ h as in hall ö÷ p as in pass ÒÓ dz as in Dzungaria øù k as in king ÔÕ r as in French gar on ºí ¨ yev Ö× tj úû o as in ox üý f as in far 184 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S SURVIVAL LEXICON IN THE ARMENIAN LANGUAGE Hello Bare´v (dzes) ´³ñ¨ (Ò»½) Good morning Bari´ looys ´³ñÇ ÉáõÛë Good day Bari´ or ´³ñÇ ûñ Good evening Bari´ yereko´ ´³ñÇ »ñ»Ïá Have a nice day Hajeli´ or em maghtou´m г׻ÉÇ ûñ »Ù Ù³ÕÃáõÙ How do you do? Inchpe´s ek ÆÝãå»±ë »ù Let me introduce myself, my name is Vardan Tooyl tvek nerkayana´l, im anouneh´ Vardan eh ÂáõÛÉ ïí»ù Ý»ñϳ۳ݳÉ, ÇÙ ³ÝáõÝÁ ì³ñ¹³Ý ¿ Let me introduce Mrs/Mr Vardanian Tooyl tvek nerkayatsne´l tiki´n/paro´n Vardaniani´n ÂáõÛÉ ïí»ù Ý»ñϳ۳óÝ»É, ïÇÏÇÝ/å³ñáÝ ì³ñ¹³ÝÛ³ÝÇÝ There is a call for Mrs/Mr Vardanian Khndrou´m em tiki´n/paro´n Vardaniani´n herakhosi´ mot ÊݹñáõÙ »Ù What is your name? Inchpe´s eh dzer anou´neh ÆÝãå»±ë ¿ Ò»ñ ³ÝáõÝÁ How old are you? Kani´ tareka´n ek ø³ÝDZ ï³ñ»Ï³Ý »ù I am thirty Yes yeresou´n tareka´n em ºë »ñ»ëáõÝ ï³ñ»Ï³Ý »Ù Where are you going? Oor ek gnoum? àõ±ñ »ù ·ÝáõÙ I go to Yerevan Yes gnoum em Yereva´n ºë ·ÝáõÙ »Ù ºñ¨³Ý I need a cab to hotel Armenia Indz petk eh taxi minche´v Armenia hyoorano´ts 185 ïÇÏÇÝ/å³ñáÝ ì³ñ¹³ÝÛ³ÝÇÝ Ñ»é³ËáëÇ Ùáï ÆÝÓ å»ïù ¿ ï³ùëÇ ÙÇÝ㨠§²ñÙ»Ýdz¦ ÑÛáõñ³Ýáó ARMENIA How do I get to the Republic square? Inchpe´s gnal minche´v Hanrapetoutya´n hrapara´k ÆÝãå»ë ·Ý³É гÝñ³å»ïáõÃÛ³Ý Ññ³å³ñ³Ï I need to get to 3 Abovian street Indz petk eh gnal Abovia´n pogho´ts, toun tiv yere´k ÆÝÓ å»ïù ¿ ·Ý³É ²µáíÛ³Ý ÷áÕáó, ïáõÝ ÃÇí 3 I need a single (double) room until May 10 Khndrou´m em mekteghano´ts (yerkteghano´ts) senya´k minche´v mayissi´ ta´seh ÊݹñáõÙ »Ù Ù»Ïï»Õ³Ýáó (»ñÏï»Õ³Ýáó) ë»ÝÛ³Ï ÙÇÝ㨠ٳÛÇëÇ ï³ëÁ Where do you live? Vorte´gh ek aprou´m àñï»±Õ »ù ³åñáõÙ I live in hotel Armenia Yes aprou´m em Armenia hyooranotsou´m ºë ³åñáõÙ »Ù §²ñÙ»Ýdz¦ ÑÛáõñ³ÝáóáõÙ What is your occupation? Icn eh dzer masnagitoutyou´neh ƱÝã ¿ Ò»ñ Ù³ëݳ·ÇïáõÃÛáõÝÁ I am a doctor (techer) Yes bzhishk (ousoutsi´ch) em This is my first (second) time in the Republic of Armenia ºë µÅÇßÏ (áõëáõóÇã) »Ù Yes araji´n (yerkro´rd) ºë ³é³çÇÝ (»ñÏanga´m em Hayastani´ ñáñ¹) ³Ý·³Ù »Ù Hanrapetoutyounou´m г۳ëï³ÝÇ Ð³Ýñ³å»ïáõÃÛáõÝáõÙ Its a sunny day today Ayso´r arevo´t or eh ²Ûëûñ ³ñ¨áï ûñ ¿ It rains (snows) Andzre´v (dzyoun) eh gali´s ²ÝÓñ¨ (ÓÛáõÝ) ¿ ·³ÉÇë The weather is fine (bad) Yeghana´keh lav (vat) eh ºÕ³Ý³ÏÁ ɳí (í³ï) ¿ How much does this cost? Sa inch arzhe´h ê³ Ç±Ýã ³ñÅ» Thank you Shnorhakalootyou´n (shnorhaka´l em) ÞÝáñѳϳÉáõÃÛáõÝ (ßÝáñÑ³Ï³É »Ù) 186 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S Coulod you please tell me when is the breakfast (lucnh, supper)? Assatse´k khndre´m vor zhami´n eh nakhaja´sheh (ja´sheh, entri´keh) ²ë³ó»ù Ëݹñ»Ù, á±ñ ųÙÇÝ ¿ ݳ˳׳ßÁ, (׳ßÁ, ÁÝÃñÇùÁ) Breakfast is at 8, lunch at 13:00, supper at 19:00 Nakhaja´sheh zha´meh ooti´n, ja´sheh tasnere´kin, entri´keh tasninnin ܳ˳׳ßÁª ųÙÁ áõÃÇÝ ×³ßÁª ï³ëÝ»ñ»ùÇÝ ÁÝÃñÇùÁª ï³ëÝÇÝÝÇÝ Good bye Tstesootyou´n òï»ëáõÃÛáõÝ Good night Bari´ gishe´r ´³ñÇ ·Çß»ñ Until meeting Minche´v nor handipoumne´r ØÇÝ㨠Ýáñ ѳݹÇåáõÙÝ»ñ I shall be back soon Shooto´v kveradarna´m Þáõïáí Ïí»ñ³¹³éݳ٠SPELLING OF ARMENIAN NUMERALS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0 0.5 10 20 30 mek yerkou´ yere´k chors hing vets yot oot i´neh zro kes tas xan yeresou´n Ù»Ï »ñÏáõ »ñ»ù ãáñë ÑÇÝ· í»ó Ûáà áõà ÇÝÁ ½ñá Ï»ë ï³ë ùë³Ý »ñ»ëáõÝ 40 karasou´n ù³é³ëáõÝ 50 hisou´n ÑÇëáõÝ 60 vatsou´n í³ÃëáõÝ yotanasou´n ÛáóݳëáõÝ ootsou´n áõÃëáõÝ innsou´n ÇÝÝëáõÝ mek yev kes Ù»Ï ¨ Ï»ë mek karo´rd Ù»Ï ù³éáñ¹ tasnme´k ï³ëÝÙ»Ï xanerku´ ùë³Ý»ñÏáõ yeresounve´ts »ñ»ëáõÝí»ó haryou´r ѳñÛáõñ yerku´ haryou´r »ñÏáõ ѳñÛáõñ haza´r ѳ½³ñ vets haza´r í»ó ѳ½³ñ haryou´r haza´r ѳñÛáõñ ѳ½³ñ yere´k haryou´r »ñ»ù ѳñÛáõñ haza´r ѳ½³ñ 1,000,000 mek milyo´n Ù»Ï ÙÇÉÇáÝ 2,100,000 yerkou´ milyo´n »ñÏáõ ÙÇÉÇáÝ haryou´r haza´r ѳñÛáõñ ѳ½³ñ 70 80 90 1.5 1/25 11 22 36 100 200 1,000 6,000 100,000 300,000 187 ARMENIA ON ARMENIAN CUISINE Archaeological excavations attest that land in Armenia was cultivated as early as in the neolithic Period. In the history of the origins of cultured plants the Arme- An Armenian chef nian Plateau is considered one of their nidi. This is best illustrated with the example of wheat: many species of wild as well as cultured wheat grow all over the Armenian Plateau. Rye, grapes, pears, myrobalan, cherries, pomegranate, walnut, quince, almond, figs and cantaloupes are also believed to have originated in Armenia and its environs. It is a well known fact that apricots have been first intrioduced to Europe from Armenia, back then they were called Armeniaca. Traditional Armenian cuisine is diverse and rich in food prepared from cultured and wild plants and fruits, game and fish. Special attention is paid in Armenia to table manners and ceremonial. The day usually begins with a light breakfast, the lunchtime is between noon and 3 PM, and supper is served anytime from five to nine. Some of the working people have developed a habit of a second breakfast between noon and 3 PM, to be followed by dinner after work in the evening. Most of the Armenian families have tea a few hours before going to sleep. The most common breakfast contains cheese, honey, jam, butter, sausage and similar cold 188 The Central roofed produce market in Yerevan. The view from Mashtots avenue M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S meats, eggs in some form, franks, tea or coffee. Dinner includes hors doeuvres, a soup, hot meat or fish dishes, fruit, pastries, tea Baking lavash or coffee. Supper is similar to dinner, without the soup. Catering in hotel restaurants basically follows the same principles as outlined above. Meals of traditional Armenian and European cuisine prevail in the restaurants. Armenian cuisine leans toward the European in its palette of flavours, although some dishes contain dominant elements more befitting Eastern cooking. This guide intentionally omits references to restaurants recommended for food and entertainment, since during the years following Armenian independence and the introduction of market relations scores of new restaurants, cafes and bars have emerged along with the existing traditional ones, and competition makes them continually improve and upgrade the service. We presume that by the time of the publication of this guide or a visit by a potential guest more pertinent information shall become available. We think it expedient to offer a description of most frequently taken traditional dishes, appetizers, breads, wines and brandies (cognacs) to be used as guidelines by our guests during home visits and dining out. This will be followed by a concise Gastronomic Glossary, which will hopefully assist our guests in shopping and dining. TRADITIONAL BREAD LAVA´SH Lavash is a thin ellipsoidal slip of baked dough up to one meter long and 50 centimeters wide. Lavash has no crust and therefore no inside, it is soft and flexible. Dried lavash has a very long shelf life and may be reconditioned by wetting, it becomes once again supple and tasty like fresh. Traditionally lavash is baked in the tonir, a special clay vessel oven buried upright in the ground. Usually lavash was baked in the warm season and stockpiled for the winter. Presently lavash is also baked in modern ovens using a special technology. MATNAKA´SH Matnakash is a flat oval or round-shaped loaf with a rim along 189 ARMENIA the perimeter and lengthwise furrows. The dough for matnakash is made with yeast leaven. HRAZDA´N This is a high rectangular loaf with a crisp crust and occasional grooves. It is baked by leavened dough technique. The bakeshops usually offer a wide selection of both traditional breads and a diversity of other types, including Georgian and European varieties. COLD DISHES AND HORS DOEUVRES The cold dishes and hors doeuvres of the Armenian cuisine are the copious prelude to the national meal. These are the various salads with legumes, stewed greens: mallow, sorrel, spinach, asparagus, portulaca (dandur), falcaria, fennel, marinated and pickled greens: horse-fennel, ramson, marjoram, celery and others, as well as meats, poultry and fish. Combination dishes are quite common, such as passouts tolma. The customary appetizers are meat bastourma and meat soujoukh permeated with garlic, pepper and caraway flavours. Appetizers with the use of various cheeses with garlic and walnut are also quite piquant. The use of spices, nuts, vinegar, matsoun and sour cream makes cooking especially delightful. Fresh greens and vegetables, diced, sliced and chopped in different combinations are a must for starters. BASTOURMA´ These are pressed and dried slices of lean beef, previously soaked in salt and coated with a spicy mash (chaman). Served as a cold appetizer thinly sliced. SOUJOU´KH Thin sausages stuffed with a filling of ground beef and spices. Served sliced as a cold appetizer. PASSOU´TS TOLMA´ (Lenten tolma wrapped in pickled cabbage or grape leaves) The filling is made of sautéed onions, tomato paste, soaked lentils, crushed wheat, beans, peas. It is wrapped in pickled cabbage or grape leaves and cooked. Served cold. MATSOUN (YOGURT) A sour dairy product from bovine, sheep or buffalo milk, fermented with yeast and special bacteria. Matsoun is good for food, it is used as a baby formula and recommended for gastrointestinal conditions. SOUPS Meat, poultry fish and mushroom stock, vegetable and fruit broth, as well as milk, matsoun (yogurt) and buttermilk are the staple for soups. The remaining 190 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S ingredients could be meat, vegetables, pasta, groats, fruit, spices. KATNAPOU´R Previously soaked rice stewed until half-cooked is boiled in hot milk to a squashy condition with salt and sugar added. SPAS Egg and flour pulp is stirred into matsoun diluted with water and boiled together with stewed rice or crushed wheat, mint and fresh coriander leaves. Sautéed onions are added by the taste. KHASH Painstakingly washed and scraped bovine shins, previously soaked in water for 24 hours, are boiled in unsalted water until the flesh flakes off the bones. Stewed tripe is added halfway through the cooking. Khash is served scorching hot with stand-alone salt, crushed garlic in stock, radish and dried lavash. Khash is not an everyday household staple, its consumption has a ceremonial air to it. It is traditionally made in the cold season, and guests are treated to it in the morning hours (one should forbear breakfast at home). Salads, appetizers and other dishes are a profanation of the khash ritual. The following is a listing of the most common hot meals. TOLMA´ 1. Beef or mutton tolma in grape wrapped leaves. The filling is a mix of ground meet, rice and greens wrapped in grape leaves, immersed in water or stock and boiled over low fire. Served with stand-alone matsoun to be poured over it (crushed garlic may me mixed into the matsoun to taste). 2. Beef or mutton tolma in cabbage leaves. The filling, the same as with grape leaves, wrapped in slightly blanched cabbage leaves, immersed in water or stock and boiled. Diced tomatoes or tomato paste are added. Sliced quince, dried fruit and apples are sometimes laid out in the casserole, cooked along and then served with tolma. KOLOLA´K Small balls made of fresh lean beef battered by a wooden mallet into a homogenous slushy mass. Eggs, cilantro, flour, milk, and vodka are stirred into the mass. The balls are cooked in stock. Served with crushed wheat porridge made with the remaining stock, and with melted ghee. HARISSA This is a kind of homogenous porridge made of previously stewed and boned chicken and coarsely ground soaked wheat. It is cooked for quite a long time, stirred by a wooden paddle throughout. Served with melted ghee and cinnamon or sautéed onions. 191 ARMENIA KHOROVATS (barbecued) pork, veal, mutton The peculiarity of Armenian khorovats is in the preparatory marination of meat, that is the making of bastourma. The meat cubes are salted, sprinkled with black pepper and chopped onions, stirred in earthenware or enamelware, closed with a lid and left to stay for a few hours. The marinated meat is then put on skewers (shampours) and roasted over hot coals (with no flame). In the summertime khorovats is usually served with tomatoes, eggplants and bell peppers baked on skewers over hot coals. More often than not these are skinned and diced into a salmagundi with greens added (cilantro, dill, parsley, green onions and shallot). In wintertime khorovats is served with tomato paste, dried sweet basil and chopped onions. Red dry wine should be served with khorovats. is also bred in small alpine lakes. The flesh is pink and tender. River trout (karmrakhayt) The flesh is pale pink and tender. Breeds in mountain rivers. Sevan whiefish (sig) Introduced and naturalized in lake Sevan from the Ladoga and Chud lakes in Russia. The flesh is white and tender. Sevan khramulya (koghak) The flesh is white and lean with fine bones. ARMENIAN FISH Fish in Armenia breeds in Sevan, Arpi and Akna lakes, in rivers and dozens of artificial lakes and reservoirs. A good catch Sevan ishkhan (trout) The following types breed in lake Sevan: winter ishkhan, summer ishkhan, gegharkouni and bojak (midget breed). Large fish weigh up to 15 kilos. The Sevan gegharkouni Sevan barbel (beghavor) The flesh is white and lean. Carp (tsatsan) The flesh is white and lean. Breeds in Arpi and Akna lakes and in Arax, Hrazdan and Sevjour rivers. 192 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S Sheatfish, roach, redhead chub (khasham) and other fish also breed in Armenian reservoirs. Armenia has a developed network of fish nurseries. Rainbow trout, carp, Chinese carp, silver carp and other fish are bred in these nurseries. ARMENIAN WINES Armenia produces over 50 different brands of wines, 7 brands of champagne and sparkling wines. Qualitywise these wines break down into: ordinary aged for up to one year; fine aged between 2 and 5 years and made by special technology; and collectible fine wines additionally aged for over three years. The wines break down by their composition into: table wines natural wines without the addition of alcohol, these include dry and medium wines, their alcohol content is between 10 to 17 percent. This group includes ordinary white wines Arteni, Ayroum, Arax, Lalvar, Hrazdan, Meghradzor, fine wines Berd, Viskevaz, Ejmiatsin, Byurakan, ordinary red and rose wines Aragats, Getap, Garni, Artashat, Hoghi aryoun (Earth Blood), fine red wines Norashen, Areni, medium wines Vernashen, Red demisweet, Rose demi-sweet; fortified wines made with the addition of rectified alcohol, their Armenian wines have been consistently awarded medals at international competitions proof is 19% of volume and more. This group includes strong, dessert, medium, sweet and liqueur wines, including the fine wines Aygeshat, Ashtarak, Arevik, Arevshat, Getashen, Oshakan, Hoktemberyan Dessert, ordinary wines Anoush, Nazeli, Zvartnots, Kagor, Saperavi, Gayane, White Muscat, Rose Muscat, Madeira, Haykavan, ports Yerevanian, Red, Ararat and others. Most of the Armenian wines that have received gold and silver medals at international competitions and samplings belong to this category; aromatic wines made with the use of rectified alcohol, sucrose and herbal extracts. Their alcohol content is up to 16 percent of volume. The most common wine of this category is Nectareni. 193 ARMENIA ARMENIAN COGNACS (BRANDIES) Cognac production in Armenia was founded about a hundred years ago. Over 15 marcs have been developed and produced since. According to the age, proof and other features Armenian cognacs (brandies) are classified as follows: ordinary, fine and collectible. Akhtamar alcohol content is 42% of volume, 10 years of ageing on the average; Tonakan (Festive) alcohol content is 42% of volume, 15 years of ageing on the average; Vaspourakan alcohol content is 40% of volume, 18 years of ageing on the average; Ordinary cognacs are designated by stars. The number of stars signifies the years of ageing of the cognac distillate: 3 stars (40% vol.), 4 stars (41% vol.), 5 stars (42% vol.). The Ani and Ararat ordinary cognacs are blended from six year spirits. Fine cognacs differ by age, blend, proof and colour. All Armenian fine cognacs have consistently received gold and silver medals at international competitions: Armenian cognacs have been acclaimed as the best in the world more than once Entir (Choice) alcohol content is 42% of volume, 7 years of ageing; Nairi alcohol content is 41% of volume, 20 years of ageing on the average; Hayastan (Armenia) alcohol content is 45% of volume, over 10 years of ageing; Dvin alcohol content is 50% of volume, over 10 years of ageing; Yerevan alcohol content is 57% of volume, over 10 years of ageing; Hobelyanakan (Jubilee) alcohol content is 43% of volume, 10 years of ageing on the average; 40 Years alcohol content is 40% of volume, 40 years of ageing on the average; 50 Years alcohol content is 40% of volume, 50 years of ageing on the average. Collectible cognacs are blended from best quality fine cognacs with additional ageing of over three years. 194 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S GASTRONOMIC GLOSSARY IN A RESTAURANT (CAFE, DINER) restora´n é»ëïáñ³Ý Cafe srjara´n/kafe´ ëñ׳ñ³Ý (ϳý») Diner jashara´n ׳߳ñ³Ý Can I have the menu in Russian (English, German) khndrou´m em jashatsoutsa´keh roussere´n (anglere´n, germanere´n) ÊݹñáõÙ »Ù ׳- Glass bazha´k µ³Å³Ï Plate apse´h ³÷ë» Fork pataraka´gh å³ï³é³ù³Õ Knife dana´k ¹³Ý³Ï Spoon gdal ·¹³É Cold appetizers, please khndrou´m em sa´reh ÊݹñáõÙ »Ù ë³éÁ khortikne´r ËáñïÇÏÝ»ñ Salad, please khndrou´m em sala´t ÊݹñáõÙ »Ù (aghtsa´n) ë³É³Ã (³Õó³Ý) Butter kara´g ϳñ³· Honey meghr Ù»Õñ Cheese pani´r å³ÝÇñ Sausage yershi´k »ñßÇÏ Frankfurter nrbershi´k Ýñµ»ñßÇÏ Greens kanachi´ ϳݳãÇ Bouillon argana´k (bulyo´n) ³ñ·³Ý³Ï (µáõÉÛáÝ) Soup apou´r (soup) ëáõå (³åáõñ) Beef tavari´ mis ï³í³ñÇ ÙÇë Pork khozi´ mis Ëá½Ç ÙÇë Mutton vochkhari´ mis áã˳ñÇ ÙÇë Chicken havi´ mis ѳíÇ ÙÇë Restaurant 195 ß³óáõó³ÏÁ éáõë»ñ»Ý (³Ý·É»ñ»Ý, ·»ñٳݻñ»Ý) ARMENIA Fish dzouk Sturgeon tarapi´ mis Water jour Bread hats Salt/salty agh/aghi´ Egg dzou Omelette dzvatse´gh Mustard manane´kh Vinegar katsa´kh Fried tapaka´ts Stewed khasha´ts Vegetables banjareghe´n Fruit mirg Ice cream paghpagha´k Sweets kaghtsraveni´k Coffee (eastern, instant) sourj (arevelya´n, loutsvo´gh) Tea tey Milk kat Mineral water hankayi´n jour Juice hyoot Wine ghini´ Table wine seghani´ ghini´ Dry chor Medium (wine) kissacho´r Sweet kaghtsr Vodka oghi´ Brandy (cognac) bre´ndi (konya´k) Beer garejou´r Cheers kena´tsed To your health dzer kena´tseh 196 ÓáõÏ ï³é³÷Ç ÙÇë çáõñ ѳó ³Õ/³ÕÇ Óáõ Óí³Í»Õ Ù³Ý³Ý»Ë ù³ó³Ë ï³å³Ï³Í Ë³ß³Í µ³Ýç³ñ»Õ»Ý ÙÇñ· å³Õå³Õ³Ï ù³Õóñ³í»ÝÇù ëáõñ× (³ñ¨»ÉÛ³Ý, ÉáõÍíáÕ) Ã»Û Ï³Ã Ñ³Ýù³ÛÇÝ çáõñ ÑÛáõà ·ÇÝÇ ë»Õ³ÝÇ ·ÇÝÇ ãáñ ÏÇë³ãáñ ù³Õóñ ûÕÇ µñ»Ý¹Ç (ÏáÝÛ³Ï) ·³ñ»çáõñ ϻݳó¹ Ò»ñ ϻݳóÁ M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S SEASONINGS, SPICES, GROATS, PLANTS, GREENS, VEGETABLES, FRUIT WITH THEIR ARMENIAN NAMES AND TRANSLITERATIONS Anise aniso´n ³ÝÇëáÝ Cardamom hil ÑÇÉ Saffron krkoum/zafra´n ùñùáõÙ/ß³ýñ³Ý Cinnamon darchi´n ¹³ñãÇÝ Ginger kojapghpe´gh Ïá׳åÕå»Õ Basil reha´n é»Ñ³Ý Celery nekhou´r/karaou´z Ý»Ëáõñ/ù³ñ³áõ½ Coriander hame´m/gindz ѳٻÙ/·ÇÝÓ Tarragon tarkhou´n óñËáõÝ Dill sami´t ë³ÙÇà Eremurus shresh ßñ»ß Thyme ourts áõñó Leek pras åñ³ë Savory tsotri´n/tsoto´r ÍáÃñÇÝ/ÍáÃáñ Portulaca dandou´r ¹³Ý¹áõé Mallow pipe´rt ÷Ç÷»ñà Parsley maghdano´s Ù³Õ³¹³Ýáë Cress kote´m Ïáï»Ù Mint daghts ¹³ÕÓ Falcaria sibe´kh ëǵ»Ë Beans lobi´ ÉáµÇ Pumpkin ddoum ¹¹áõÙ Cabbage kagha´mb ϳճٵ Cucumber varou´ng í³ñáõÝ· Tomato loli´k/pamido´r ÉáÉÇÏ/åáÙǹáñ 197 ARMENIA Eggplant smbouk/badrija´n ëÙµáõÏ/µ³¹ñÇç³Ý Carrot gaza´r ·³½³ñ Radish boghk µáÕÏ Beet jaknde´gh/bazou´k ׳Ïݹ»Õ/µ³½áõÏ Mushroom sounk ëáõÝÏ Spinach spana´kh ëå³Ý³Ë Sorrel trtnjouk ÃñÃÝçáõÏ Marshmallow moloshava´rd ÙáÉáß³í³ñ¹ Goosefoot telouk/sagakho´t ûÉáõÏ/ë³·³Ëáï Asparagus tsnebe´k ÍÝ»µ»Ï Horse-fennel bokhi µáËÇ Garlic skhtor ëËïáñ Onion sokh ëáË Caraway chaman ã³Ù³Ý Ramson ghandzi´l Õ³ÝÓÇÉ Marjoram khnkatsaghi´k /sousamba´r ËÝϳͳÕÇÏ ëáõë³Ùµ³ñ Okra bamia´ µ³ÙÇë Wheat tsore´n óáñ»Ý Barley gari´ ·³ñÇ Pea sise´r ëÇë»Õ Lentil vosp áëå Olive dzitaptoukh ÓÇóåïáõÕ Pepper takde´gh/pkghpekh ï³ù¹»Õ/åÕå»Õ Clove mekha´k Ù»Ë³Ï Rose vard í³ñ¹ Almond noush Ýáõß Walnut enkooy´z ÁÝÏáõÛ½ Filbert pndouk åݹáõÏ Apple khndzor ËÝÓáñ 198 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S Pear tandz ï³ÝÓ Grape khagho´gh ˳ÕáÕ Apricot tsira´n ÍÇñ³Ý Water melon dzmerou´k ç»ñÙáõÏ Cantaloupe sekh ë»Ë Peach dekhdz ¹»ÕÓ Quince serkevi´l ë»ñϨÇÉ Cherry kera´s Ï»é³ë Sour cherry bal µ³É Dewberry mosh Ùáß Currant hagha´rj ѳճñç Raspberry aznvamori´ ³½Ýí³ÙáñÇ Strawberry yela´k/getnamori´ »É³Ï/·»ïݳÙáñÇ Fig touz Ãáõ½ Pomegranate nour Ýáõé Mulberry tout Ãáõà Plum/cherry plum salo´r/shlor ë³Éáñ/ßÉáñ Greengage dambou´l ¹³ÙµáõÉ Rosehip massou´r Ù³ëáõñ Medlar zker ½Ï»é Dried apricot tsiranachi´r ÍÇñ³Ý³ãÇñ Dried greengage dambouli´ chi´r ¹³ÙµáõÉÇ ãÇñ Orange nari´nj ݳñÇÝç Tangerine mandari´n ٳݹ³ñÇÝ Banana adamatou´z/bana´n ³¹³Ù³Ãáõ½/µ³Ý³Ý Lemon kitro´n/limo´n ÏÇïñáÝ/ÉÇÙáÝ 199 ARMENIA MISCELLANEOUS REFERENCE ADDRESSES AND TELEPHONE NUMBERS OF GOVERNMENTAL AGENCIES AND THE NATIONAL ASSEMBLY address telephone facsimile The staff of the President of the Republic 26 Marshal Baghramian Ave. 520656 522330 521581 The staff of the National Assembly 19 Marshal Baghramian Ave. 520360 527450 527450 The staff of the Prime Minister Republic Square, 1 Government House 520201 520680 529443 Agriculture 48 Nalbandian street 524641 523793 AT&T 151583 On Coordination of operation of production infrastructure Republic Square, 1 Government House 520321 AT&T 151036 Culture, youth issues and sport 5 Toumanian street 521920 529349 523922 the Chief of staff of Government-Minister Republic Square, 1 Government House 520360 AT&T 151036 Defence Ashtarak highway 345656 285321 151433 Economics 1 Melik-Adamian street 527082 1 Government House AT&T 151154 Education and science 12 Movses Khorenatsi street 526602 524749 525317 526996 Energy Republic Square, 2 Government House 526556 521964 526365 151089 Environmental protection 35 Moskovian street 530741 538613 534902 Finance 1 Melik-Adamian street 595255 1 Government House 528742 Foreign affairs Republic Square, 2 Government House 507250 521796 151042 Ministries 200 523531 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S Health 6 Toumanian street 582413 562923 151097 Industry and trade 5 Hanrapetoutyan street 538082 526577 538321 151583 Internal affairs 130 Nalbandian street 574543 587125 Justice 8 Khorhrdarani street 582157 582449 National security 104 Nalbandian street 563515 525891 Operational issues Republic Square, 1 Government House 521706 AT&T 151036 Post and telecommunications 20 Nalbandian street 526632 524756 151446 Privatisation Republic Square, 2 Government House 520351 151035 529443 Public revenue Republic Square, 1 Government House 539195 538226 Social security 69 Terian street 565321 151920 565383 Statistics, state registry and analysis Republic Square, 3 Government House 524213 521921 Territorial governance Republic Square, 1 Government House 525274 151036 529443 Transport 10 Zakiyan street 563391 560528 Urban development Republic Square, 3 Government House 589080 523200 3 Marshal Baghramian avenue 16 Khachatour Abovian street 25 Demirjian street 17 Marshal Baghramian avenue 3a Poushkin street 18 Vardanants street 18 Vardanants street 13 Mesrob Mashtots avenue 563812 564724 526347 561506 564757 570717 570092 538490 CREATIVE ASSOCIATIONS Writers Artists Composers Architects Journalists Cinematographers House of Film Theatre professionals House of Actors 201 ARMENIA LIBRARIES National Municipal Childrens Musical literature National Academy of Science Medical Science Theatre professionals 72 Terian street 2 Amirian street 42/1 Terian street 53 Tigran Metsi street 24 Marshal Baghramian avenue 8 Hovhannes Toumanian street 13 Mesrob Mashtots avenue 584259 561566 521222 565304 587589 580344 238771 YEREVAN CHURCHES Sourb (Saint) Sarkis Sourb Hovhannes Sourb Anania (Zoravor) Katoghike Sourb Gevorg Sourb Astvatsatsin (Mother of God) Sourb Astvatsatsin (Mother of God) Sourb Hakob Russian Orthodox 21 Raphael Israelian street 2nd Street, #9, Kond 96 Ghazar Parpetsi street 15 Abovian street 1st Noragavit street Nork 32/2 Sebastiayi street 20/1, 6th Kanaker street Kanaker SPORTS FACILITIES Hrazdan stadium Dynamo stadium Nairi stadium Hayastan stadium Chess House Dynamo swimming pool Intramural swimming pool Intramural swimming pool Dynamo sports palace Arax sports arena Sports and concert complex Tennis courts Hrazdan river canyon 65 Vardanants street 2 Bagratounyats street 64 Sebastiayi street 50 Khanjian street 72a Charnets street 40 Komitas street 7 Khorenatsi street 69 Vardanants street 9 Manandian street Tsitsernakaberd park Alex Manookian street and Tsitsernakaberd park 202 M I S C E L L A N E O U S DATA A N D U S E F U L T I D B I T S FARMERS MARKETS Number 1 Number 2 Number 3 Number 4 Number 5 Number 6 Number 7 Number 8 Number 9 Number 10 Number 11 5 Mesrob Mashtots avenue 35 Khorenatsi street 17 Nzdehi street 64 Sebastiayi street 53 Komitas street 29 A. Karapetian street 14 Gayi street 85 Tsereteli street 19 Erebouni street 51 Parouyr Sevak street Avan-Arinj district EMERGENCY PHONE NUMBERS Fire protection Police Ambulance Elevator breakdown service Telephone repair Long distance service: Operator assisted calls Overseas operator assisted calls Complaints on service City hall of Yerevan (reference, complaints) 1-01 1-02 1-03 1-85 Exchange prefix +1212 1-07 1-05 1-06 526356 CITY INFORMATION Yerevan Telephone network information for incoming overseas calls Railway reference Subway Zvartnots airport reference Erebouni airport reference Central ticket office (airlines) International ticket office (airlines) Bus terminals reference: Central Northern By the railway station Yerevan street address information 1-09 538752 1-84 271800 1-87, 505640, phone/fax AT&T 151123 480351 530662 582422, 531770 565370 282471, 280666, 621670 450570 536970 203 ARMENIA A COUNTRY AND THE PEOPLE Guidebook Technical editor: A. Manoucharian Photography: K. Azizian, A. Petrossian, Z. Sarkissian Proofreader: Artashes Emin Colour separation and typesetting ENCYCLOPAEDIA-ARMENIKA Ltd 17 Toumanian Street, Yerevan
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