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1000 Great Sneakers Sneakers Mathieu Le Maux Mathieu Le Maux 1 2 3 Creating a cult Reign of the brands Top of the range 04 Adidas Stan Smith Adidas Stan Smith Quite simply cult 2011 Adidas announces they are ceasing production of the Stan, owing to poor sales. The fans uncover the strategy: create a scarcity in order to make a bigger splash upon relaunch. Which was what happened in 2014, to great success. « Many players wore it because it was the best. But it annoyed them a lot that it carried my name. » Stan Smith 05 With its clean lines, white leather and compact profile, the Smith was applauded by all sneakers fans. A true miracle. In 1963, Horst Dassler, CEO of Adidas, asked the French tennis player Robert Haillet to design the first leather tennis shoe, at a time when players the world over tortured their ankles in canvas models that were sorely lacking in support. Haillet’s shoe was a technological exploit, featuring supple leather sewed directly to the sole. Eight years later, the German kit supplier signed a contract with one of the best players of the time: one Stan Smith, winner of the 1971 US Open, and stalwart of the American Davis Cup team. For three years, the name of this twenty-five-year-old Californian sat alongside that of the modest French player, before decorating the side of the shoe on its own. In the early 1980s, the “Stan” left the tennis court and hit the streets. It appeared on the feet of workers, teachers, and students wearing Levi’s 501s and leather jackets. Ten years later, it became popular with rappers, before entering the Guinness Book of Records—nearly 22 million pairs sold across the world. The Stan has since become a fundamental accessory in the “casual chic” wardrobe, rounding off the look of both fortysomething bobos and fashion victims. The shoe was a favorite of the designer Marc Jacobs, and has been copied by the great luxury brands numerous times, although never quite achieving the timeless aura of the original. 300 The price, in francs, of a Stan Smith in the 1980s. That is to say around 45 euros… compared with 110 euros today. Robert Haillet Stan Smith 2 Stan Smith High / WMN Stan Smith Pharrell Williams Stan Smith Raf Simons Stan Smith Consortium The original The most Velcro® No comment… The poppiest and happiest The trendiest The most reptilian 06 Adidas Stan Smith Adidas Stan Smith 07 VINTAGE BLUE ADIDAS X PHARRELL WILLIAMS STAR WARS X ADIDAS MILLENNIUM FALCON primeknit adidas x Pharrell WILLIAMS X COLETTE ADIDAS X NEighborhood KERMIT THE FROG battle pack adidas x clot adidas x Pharrell williams tennis pack ii adidas x Pharrell williams tennis pack i ADIDAS x Pharrell williams solid pack red luxury pack - shark white oil spill adidas x club 75 chalk 2 chalk LIMITED EDITION OSTRICH vintage red ADIDAS x Pharrell williams solid pack blue core black & leopard Adidas X Opening Ceremony adidas x OC woven adidas x the hundreds consortium - play adidas x cncpts baseball legacy adidas x opening ceremony mastermind 08 Nike Air Jordan 1 Beautiful rebel 90 million dollars The amount of revenue earned by Michael Jordan in 2013, after taking a 6% royalty on every pair sold since the very beginning. . Nike Air Jordan 1 09 Initially banned by the NBA, the Jordan 1 was the first in a long line that upset sneaker culture in the mid-1980s. In answer to the question “What shoe would you take with you to a desert island?” there’s a strong chance that a sneakers addict would immediately answer: “An Air Jordan!” And out of the 26 models—each of which was produced in dozens of versions—he would specify: “The first, of course!” Worn by a charismatic genius, the Air Jordan 1 is the most venerated sneaker on the planet, the icon of a virtual religion. Yet the shoe very nearly never happened. Firstly, because when the Chicago Bulls player saw the sneaker, he himself refused to wear it. “I’ll look like a clown!” he said. Later, the main obstacle came from the very rigid NBA. Their regulations required a minimum amount of white on sneakers, and so they banned this entirely red and black shoe. And that might have been the end of it, except the ban became the most wonderful marketing opportunity. Nike paid a five thousand dollar fine every time “MJ” wore the forbidden footwear, and consumers were soon converted. The American kit supplier, who had already had their previous Jordan model (the Air Ship) rejected, upped the ante in a spirited TV ad that announced: “The NBA threw them out of the game. Fortunately, the NBA can’t The number of Air Jordan stop you from wearing them.” pairs sold throughout the world We all know how very effective since 1985. that ad campaign was! 100 million AIR JORDAN 1 (SECOND VERSION) AIR JORDAN 6 INFRARED Air Jordan 2 Air Jordan 3 Air jordan 7 Air Jordan 18 White and red, for the NBA Impossible to find Made in Italy Tinker Hatfield’s first The most televised The most ephemeral 10 puma puma, The rebel brand The product of a fratricidal war, Puma attracted the big names of sport and fashion to defend its style. The town of Herzogenaurach, in Germany, is home to both Adidas and Puma, two major sports kit suppliers located just four kilometers apart. Strange for a town of barely 23,000 inhabitants. This industrial curiosity has its roots in a fierce quarrel between Rudolf and Adolf Dassler. Shoe manufacturers since 1924, the brothers fell out in spring 1948. Rudolf, the elder, launched Puma in September. The brand then sought to attract the greatest champions, signing eye-watering contracts with football stars such as Pelé, Eusébio, Johan Cruijff, and Diego Maradona—who made the Puma King the star of football schools everywhere—as well as with the tennis players Guillermo Vilas and Boris Becker, and, later, the Formula 1 driver, Michael Schumacher. Since 2007, Puma has belonged to the French group, Kering. These days, the brand relies mainly on the Jamaican sprinter, Usain Bolt, and has lost some ground to its competitors. Despite collaborations with many fashion designers (Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan), Puma’s bestseller remains the Clyde. Summer Olympics in Mexico City, 1968. The sprinters, Smith and Carlos, protest against racial discrimination in the United States. Disc Amid the whirlwind of technological innovations of the early 1990s (Torsion, Air, Pump), Puma launched the Disc system (in March 1992): the wearer turns a disc placed on the instep to tighten the shoe. 12 puma Mostro Nobody would have bet a cent on this strange shoe, with its double crossed Velcro® and its sole made for climbing. Yet its one of Puma’s bestsellers. speedcat This Formula 1 driver’s shoe with a tire-like sole was worn by one out of three students in the 2000s, before disappearing as quickly as it arrived. challenge advantage easy rider Archive lite caro catskill canvas court star el solo stepper classic 14 top cinema top cinema TOP Cinema A common sight on sports fields, sneakers have also featured on the big screen. ADIDAS Country Beverly Hills Cop - Martin Brest, 1984 REEBOK Alien Stomper Aliens - James Cameron, 1986 NIKE Air Flow Boyz n the Hood - John Singleton, 1991 Nike Air Jordan 4 GS Do the Right Thing - Spike Lee, 1989 ADIDAS Stan Smith Black Blade Runner - Ridley Scott, 1982 VANS Slip-on Checkerboard Fast Times at Ridgemont High - Amy Heckerling, 1982 ADIDAS Zissou The Life Aquatic - Wes Anderson, 2004 nike Sky Force 88 Mid The Goonies - Richard Donner, 1985 CONVERSE Chuck Taylor All Star Marie-Antoinette - Sofia Coppola, 2006 NIKE Air Max Triax Space Jam - Joe Pytka, 1996 NIKE Air Command Force White Men Can’t Jump - Ron Shelton, 1992 nike Air Woven HTM Lost in Translation - Sofia Coppola, 2003 nike Bruin Leather Back to the Future - Robert Zemeckis, 1985 NIKE Vandal Terminator - James Cameron, 1984 15 Connaissez-vous l’origine « Swoosh », l’emblème What do Fred Perry and Michaeldu Jordan have in common? How mythique debecame Nike ?one Le of lien géantslogos of all did a $35 logo theentre most les recognized times? Sneakers have become muchépique more than shoes, breaking Adidas et Puma ? L’histoire dejust l’Air through into sport, fashion, culture and business. Branded, Jordan 1, qui a failli ne jamais voira le jour ? exclusive, customized, every sneaker has story to tell about an era, a competition, a sportsman. With its Plongez dans cea team, recueil des sneakers lesvivid plusand visual approach, 1000l’histoire Great Sneakers a celebration and history of a cultes, dont s’écritisencore aujourd’hui. sports phenomenon. Découvrez les success stories des modèles Mathieu Ledevenus Maux, hasles been the Frenchd’une GQ’s sports editor since qui sont étendards génération ; 2011. He also appears on French television (BeIN Sports) and on ceux qui plu, He’s déplu ; que vous various radioont shows. bothceux a running fanaticavez - he published toujours rêvé de porter ou qui vous ont -choqué. The Running Dictionary (Flammarion) in october and a sneakerhead he owns more than 300 pairs. Du basket-ball aux maisons de haute couture, laissez-vous guider pour décrypter les codes de la sPECIFICATIONS culture sneakersFormat et trouver chaussure à votre pied ! 170 x 230 mm Number of pages or 256 pp sneakers, Mathieu Le Maux, passionné de208 running et de Approx. 25,000 words est chef de la rubrique Sport duormagazine GQ. Price 15 25 €