Circe: The Resurrection of a Legend
Transcription
Circe: The Resurrection of a Legend
Circe The Resurrection of a Legend “Circe” sits quietly tied to the dock in Lake Union, rocking gently in the waves. Varnish gleams on her pilothouse, and lines are coiled neatly on her deck. But if you look carefully, you’ll see more than a classic wooden sloop. This racer has a clean, bold design, longer and narrower than most modern boats. She has been beautifully restored to a historically accurate condition, but if you know to look beneath her classic exterior, you’ll see a fast, hungry, untamed spirit. If boats could tell stories, “Circe” would whisper an unrelenting siren’s song. By Charlotte Austin 42 September 2014 www.48North.com Today, “Circe” is moored in Lake Union, at the dock where she was built in 1932. The boat continues to be updated to maintain current Coast Guard certification for charters on Lake Union and Puget Sound. Circe was imagined in the early twentieth century by the late Ben Seaborn, who was an 18-year-old senior at Seattle’s Broadway High School when he sketched the designs for Circe. Seaborn’s stepfather, the renowned shipwright Ray Cooke, had the boat built in 1932. According to local legend, when the boat was lowered into the water for the first time, the waterline was precisely where Seaborn had calculated it would be, earning the young designer immediate respect. Cooke and Seaborn raced the boat throughout the 1930s, logging more than 30,000 miles of ocean racing in 19 offshore voyages. Accounts vary, but it is agreed upon that Circe placed very highly in races from Victoria to Maui and Santa Barbara to Honolulu. During one of these races, she was recorded averaging more than 14 knots during a 24-hour period. As one crewmember wrote in his journal, “Canvas sails, wooden spars, and few winches […] made for hard work for the crew. But when Circe heeled to the mounting westerly and shouldered her magnificent way through the Strait of Juan de Fuca, we knew that we were aboard a truly sea-going thoroughbred.” The boat raced until the Second World War, when she was commandeered by the Coast Guard to serve as a pilot vessel. Her hull was painted blue, and she was used to officially escort visiting vessels in unfamiliar navigational waters, patrolling from Neah Bay to the mouth of the Columbia River. After the war, Cooke continued to race the boat until he died of cancer – in a bunk aboard Circe, if legend is to be believed – in 1964. Ben Seaborn had committed suicide in 1960, so the boat was left to his brother Jack. Jack Seaborn sailed the boat until 1967, when he moved to Portland. Circe remained on Lake Union, and due to neglect and improper maintenance, she fell into terrible disrepair. In www.48North.com September 2014 1968, Stan Keck – a Seattle-based businessman who had crewed aboard the boat during races in the early 1960s – happened upon Circe at her dock. “It broke my heart,” he says. “The boat had been crashed and partially flooded. All of the varnish was bad. I remembered a beautiful trans-Pacific racing boat, but when I saw her in 1968 she was uninsurable and barely afloat.” Keck immediately drove to Portland, where he bought a half interest in the boat for $10,000. (According to their agreement, Jack Seaborn and his wife Norah could use the boat only under the supervision of a qualified skipper, having lost their own insurability when Seaborn crashed Circe into a floating barge.) Keck immediately began to make repairs, but soon realized that the boat needed more than superficial maintenance. “The wood was so rotten that chunks would come off in your hands,” he says. There were holes in the deck and the moss on her hull was six inches thick. Moorage 43 payments were overdue, and the boat was moved to dry storage in Bellevue. But Keck saw the beauty in her clean lines and prestigious racing heritage, and he immediately embarked on a full restoration of the classic vessel. More than 40 years later, Keck has invested between a quarter and a half million dollars in the restoration. All repairs have been designed to be as historically accurate as possible. The decks are teak salvaged from naval cruisers that served in the SpanishAmerican war in the mid-nineteenth century, and Keck air-dried the thousands of board feet of vertical grain fir in the hull. Circe earned Coast Guard certification during the repairs in the mid-1980s, which she still holds “The wood was so rotten that chunks would come off in your hands,” — Stan Keck When Stan Keck found the “Circe” she was sinking. Holes were gouged in her sides and she wore a ‘hula skirt’ of moss six inches long. “Circe” was so badly worn, that when Keck completed the restoration, a new marine survey showed that 85 percent of the hull planking and 45 percent of her ribs were brand new. today. When she was built, she was 63’; somewhere in her history, she was extended to a full 67’. She weighs 40 tons, including 14 tons of steel shot ballast, and her engine boasts 80 horsepower. Keck raced Circe locally during the 1980s and 1990s, and in 1994 the boat started working with Reserve Officers’ Training Corps (ROTC) students at the University of Washington. With the help of the Seattle Yacht Club, he created the Circe Foundation, a 501(c)3 nonprofit that has been instrumental in acquiring two surplused yawls for the ROTC program. Circe herself no longer acts as a training vessel, but the Sea Cadet and Sea Scout programs now enjoy racing the two identical training ships to practice their seamanship. 44 September 2014 www.48North.com “CIRCE was brand new and without question the finest yacht on Puget Sound. On this, my first ocean race abroad a true offshore racer, I was amazed to feel how light she was on the helm, and how easily she responded to the slightest touch. Canvas sails, wooden spars and few winches by today’s standards made for hard work for the crew. But when CIRCE heeled to the mounting westerly and shouldered her magnificent way through the Strait of Juan de Fuca, we knew that we were aboard a true, sea-going thoroughbred.” CIRCE crew diary entry, 1935 Trans-Pacific Race from Santa Barbara to Honolulu Circe is maintained and operated by Michael Gifford, Seattle-based captain and shipwright, and his wife Cornelia. She is available for charter on Lake Union and Puget Sound through the Circe Foundation and Lake Union Charters & Adventures, and current rates (with Coast Guard-certified skipper and crew) are quite reasonable. All proceeds support nonprofit work – namely, maintenance for the historic vessel. As with any wooden boat, Circe’s restoration is an ongoing process. Parts are being replaced as they break, and the boat continues to be updated to maintain current Coast Guard certification. There are plans to rebuild her hull, complete with new chain plates to accommodate mizzen mast rigging. She annually visits the Classic Boat Festival in Victoria and the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival, and she is a regular participant in the Seattle Yacht Club Opening Day Ceremony. “She’s quite the legend,” says Gifford. “If you keep your eyes peeled, you’ll see her out catching the wind on a Eighteenth AnnualFall Fall Boat Boat Show Show Ninteenth Annual CAP MARINA CAPSANTE SANTE MARINA Sept. 27-28 &5,29,2014 2013• •10:00 10:00 — 5:00 Oct. 3, 4 & AMam – 5:00 PM pm www.anacortesboatshow.com • 888-811-2252 www.anacortesboatshow.com • 360-333-8382 1029 Q Avenue Anacortes, 1019 Q Avenue Anacortes,WA WA More Boats • Best yachts from the best brokers, new & pre-owned. Look for the Big White Tent filled with electronics, rigging, marine services - everything you need www.48North.com September 2014 45 sunny day. If you wave at us, we’ll always wave back.” There are other Seaborndesigned boats in the area, including the Thunderbird class sailboat, which was designed in response to a request from the Douglas Fir Plywood Association in Tacoma for a boat that would “[…] be both a racing and a cruising boat; provide sleeping accommodations for four crew; be capable of being built by reasonably skilled amateurs; provide auxiliary power by an outboard motor that could easily be removed and stowed; and out-perform other sailboats in its class.” All Seaborn boats are regarded highly, but Circe will always be his first. Today, Circe is moored at the dock where she was built. For all her local history, one mystery remains: how she was given her name. The mythical goddess Circe, daughter of a sun god and an ocean nymph, is best remembered for her encounter with Odysseus in Cooke and Seaborn raced the boat throughout the 1930s, logging more than 30,000 miles of ocean racing in 19 offshore voyages. Homer’s Odyssey. As Odysseus and his men were returning from the Trojan War, they sailed by the island of Aeaea and ventured ashore. The men stumbled upon Circe’s palace, which was surrounded by beasts. While Odysseus waited on the ship, his men were invited inside. After eating Circe’s enchanted food, they were transformed into pigs. Odysseus went to Circe to demand the release of his men, meeting the disguised god Hermes on his way. Hermes gave Odysseus an herb that would protect him from the simplest of Circe’s spells, and he wisely refused the enchanted food that she offered him. Surprised when her enchantments failed to affect Odysseus, the sorceress fell to her knees and pleaded for her life. He agreed to spare her in exchange for his men, and Circe lifted her spells and welcomed Odysseus and his men into her home. They bore a child together, and when Odysseus took his leave a year later, Circe offered words of guidance TM Join the growing list of Good Old Boat readers. Try our offer of TWO COMPLIMENTARY DIGITAL COPIES To Boldly Go Where No Boat Repair Company Has Gone Before... Electric Propulsion Systems! available to you as a reader of 48 North. Go to: www.goodoldboat.com/ subscription_services/intro_48North.php You’ll receive a link to your first issue of Good Old Boat within a day or two and a second link when the next issue is published. Download both FREE PDF issues to your computer or mobile device. See us at the Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival! Sept. 5-7 206.661.2159 info@seattleboatworks.com www.seattleboatworks.com 46 September 2014 www.48North.com clean T h e f u t u r e i s n ow. for his journey into the unknown. The story can be interpreted in many ways, but some classicists suggest that it’s a lesson in understanding the different kinds of seduction. While banal desires enchant and transfix, gaining the respect of a sorceress has long earned sailors a different kind of satisfaction. It’s not a perfect metaphor, but it’s easy to imagine some of Circe’s mythical magic when walking across repurposed teak decks that are more than 160 years old. “My first wife almost divorced me over this boat,” Keck reminisces, shaking his head with a smile. “Had I known what we’d go through together, I wouldn’t have started the process of restoring this boat. But Circe is a grand old lady, and if I hadn’t fallen in love with her, she’d be at the bottom of the sea.” For more information, visit: www.circefoundation.org and www.lakeunioncharters.com. Read more of Charlotte Austin’s work at www.charlotteaustin.com. Owner Stan Keck, who first crewed on “Circe” in 1964,” at the helm during Seattle Yacht Club Opening Day Parade. “Circe” has participated in the Opening Day Ceremonies since the completion of her restoration in 1992, winning the classic boat prize numerous times. Ocean Passage Making with Instruction Serving the Pacific Northwest & Alaska Since 1959! 15% OFF ALL US FL AGS 8/30/14 - 9/1/14 F Be llw et www.48North.com Bellingham Location 1411 Roeder Avenue 800.426.9284 W 12th Ave W www.mahina.com 360.378.6131 W Ewing Pl 13th Ave W he rW ay ve rA de St e Ro ly ol H For a unique and dynamic learning experience join expert instructors John and Amanda Neal aboard Mahina Tiare III, their Hallberg-Rassy 46. St St W WE wing W Ni ck Ew i er so n St ng St Seattle Location 1080 W Ewing Street 855.916.2746 www.reddenmarine.com September 2014 47