The New Breed Meet Lydia, Bianca and Constance — a

Transcription

The New Breed Meet Lydia, Bianca and Constance — a
The New Breed
Meet Lydia, Bianca and
Constance — a new generation
of cultivated creatives that
define the #modernvagabond
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
A bi-annual magazine by Vagabond Shoemakers
SPRING & SUMMER 16
Contributors
Contents
Being a Modern Shoemaker
Page 3
In the Atelier: The Art of Shoemaking
Page 5
The Edit: Cherry Picks
Page 7
Style Basics: Sartorial Essentials
Page 9
Nicole Walker
Serge Leblon
Make it Last
Once you’ve crossed roads with freelance
stylist Nicole Walker, you’ll never forget her
face. With a platinum blonde bob and blood
red lips, Nicoles signature look is as recognizeable as her work. Known for her original
and quirky style she bravely makes the most
inconspicious combinations work as if it
was the most natural thing in the world. In
this journal she has styled all the campaign
images and chosen her favourites from the
collection on pages 7-8.
Belgian photographer Serge Leblon originally studied cinematography in Brussels.
From there, he began a career in photojournalism, principally working in the Middle
East to cover the war in Lebanon. Growing
tired of being a reporter, Leblon started a
project on ’formalisation and incommunicability’ and a subsequent editorial project for
The Face led to further work for prestigious
ublications including Dazed & Confused, i-D,
Self Service and Purple.
After years of experience working for magazines like Swedish Elle and Rodeo, Emma
Elwin and Lisa Corneliusson founded the
online magazine Make it Last dedicated to
make sustainability less wholesome and
more sexy. By raising awareness on initiatives such as Vagabond’s non-animal shoe
collection the editors work to make sustainability as inspiring as it is important.
Lydia Graham
Bianca O’Brien
Constance Power
As a model and actress with an unconvential, gender-bending sense of style. Lydia is a
master of changing and capturing characters.
With a rare kind of beauty that demands a
second look. With raven-black hair and piercing green eyes, the tomboy exudes both
confidence and fragility at the same time.
Model, dancer, actress, author, magazine
editor, art curator, the list of creative roles
Bianca has played is seemingly endless.
After relocating from London to now reside
in Paris the young cosmopolite is building
a creative life liberated from physical things
in search of ultimate freedom and variety.
Constance, who rather prefers to go by her
nickname Connie, considers creativity to be
her very purpose. To an ever-changing beat,
she is an artist with a musical expression
as convincing and eclectic as her off-beat
sense of style.
The New Breed: Bianca, Lydia & Constance
Page 11
Sports Redefined
Page 25
Vagabond Atelier: The Non-Animal Collection
Page 29
The Edit: It’s In The Bag
Page 31
Make it Last: The Future of Fashion
Page 33
EDITOR IN CHIEF
Marie Nilsson Peterzén
Published by Vagabond Shoemakers
Reproduction of any part of this publication is strictly prohibited without prior permission
from the publishers including all logos, titles and graphic elelments. All rights reserved Copyright
2016 by Vagabond International.
W W W.VAG A B O N D . C O M
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Serge Leblon, Christian Högstedt, Frankenstein Studio, Oliver Knauer
ART DIRECTION
Frankenstein Studio
COPY EDITOR
Jimmy Guo
2
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
Being a Modern
Shoemaker
Ever since we founded Vagabond, it has always been important to do
everything ourselves — being the only way to assure quality in each
step and every detail. After more than 20 years in the business, I can
confidently say we have a genuine knowledge for making shoes. The
process itself has always thrilled me, the mere challenge of it is perhaps what intrigues me the most. So many things need to fit together;
the look, the lines, the comfort and wearability. Since we make every
style from scratch, each design is a challenge. However, once I see the
outsole and a last fitting together in harmony, it’s a fantastic feeling.
Beside the love and craft you see in the final product, we also put
great effort in making our production more sustainable. Consciousness about our fashion consumption is becoming widespread and
while being proud of what we have accomplished so far, we are also
humble towards the challenges ahead. Our first venture into making
non-animal shoes using alternatives to leather, is our limited collection of
Non-Animal Collection, which I am happy to announce for Spring 2016.
Having this story of craft and passion to tell, I felt the times are right to
let our customers all over the world get to know us better. The result is
what you’re holding in your hands, the very first issue of The Shoemakers Journal. This is what we stand for, our story and why we take such
pride in our products.
I hope you’ll enjoy reading the story of Vagabond, the world of shoemaking is such a thrilling place.
MARIE NILSSON PETERZÉN
C O - F O U N D E R A N D C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R
3
T H E VAG A B O N D D E S I G N S T U D I O
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
In the atelier
In the atelier
The Art of Shoemaking
Material Focus
”We see inspiration everywhere,
film, architecture, music, people.
But to really get started for a
new season, we visit museums
or art exhibitions. ”
— MARIA OLANDER , CHIEF OF DESIGN
Have you ever wondered how a Vagabond shoe
is born? It all starts in Varberg, inside the one-of-akind design studio/workshop where Maria Olander,
Chief of Design and her team conceive each collection from scratch. Here, she takes us inside the atelier telling the story of a shoe being made — from
idea to finished product.
2. The Outsole
Next, the last is paired with the outsole, which
is developed parallel to the last. The combination
of these key elements create the look, trend factor
and comfort. For spring, we’ve been obsessed with
sporty-looking outsoles and how they completely
change the look and feel of a classic shape. Then,
the upper is designed, this is done parallel to developing materials. This could be fabric or leather and
we make sure to get just the right colours and finishes we want.
3. Prototyping
A mock-up prototype is then assembled in our
workshop. The process is very hands-on and we
test the prototype’s ability to hold the shape and
wear. After all, a shoe is meant to be worn and walked in so ensuring durability is an extremely important step for us. Having skilled craftsmen working
in-house is a huge asset for us and at this point we
can cut, construct and make alterations right in our
workshop until it gets perfect.
4. Production
Once we have a prototype we feel happy with, the
design team and production technicians will travel
with it to the factories. Apart from our own factory,
we work with very few external factories with whom
we have long-term collaborations. Either case, our
technicians stay on-site during the production of the
sample collections, making sure everything turns
out just like we want to.
Into the Groove
Modern Minimalism
Red, coral and pink shades are used to create a
colourful addition this season where natural leather
and earthy colours dominate the colour spectra.
Pure and simple. Here, soft leathers in neutral
shades such as almond, toffee and light grey. Suede is
a key material for the look, creating a soft and subtle
look for dressier shoes.
Sartorial Essentials
New Originals
For the guys, we’ve been working with classic,
natural leather in a range of cognac and saddle. Black
is less important for men’s summer shoes so we’ve
instead focused on a wide range of blues. Navy is a
key colour this season.
We continue our sporty subcategory, with the futuristic, sporty ballerina, as a key look. Here we present
our scuba material and match it with elastic details.
This direction also holds gender-neutral sport styles,
clean uppers matching the spring outfits of many.
And that’s about it. With all this work and love
behind its creation, the Vagabond shoe can finally
start its life with a wearer. And that is really when
it all begins.
The collection starts with our design team defining the season’s main themes. For spring summer
2016 we’ve narrowed it down to four main moodboards of which the designers begin to sketch.
1. The Last
The design begins by creating the last. It is the
last that define the silhouette and shape of the shoe
as well as how it fits the foot – this is most important aspect to get right. Each season one of Italy’s
very best lastmakers come to work with our team,
helping us in the constant strive for perfection. We
do actually create a lot of crazy pieces in our studio
that we can’t sell but it gives us a lot of inspiration.
5
6
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
The Edit
Cherry Picks
The truth is... well, we all have favourites. Our own list of favourite
styles would be far too long to feature in this spread. So, we asked
stylist Nicole Walker to select her best shoes of the season.
”A pair of
smart, dressy
loafers keep
you on your feet
from office to
evening.”
”Swap
stilettos for a
chunky sandal
this season–
comfort doesn’t
compromise
on style.”
DARIA, PLATFORM SANDAL
AYDEN, HIGH FRONT BALLERINA
LEA, HIGH HEEL SANDAL
CLARA, SUEDE LOAFER
GAIA, LEATHER SANDAL
JAMILLA, SUEDE PUMP
CONNOR, WHITE SNEAKER
NOOR, WOOD SANDAL
LINHOPE, SUEDE LOAFER
”Ditch the
flip–flops to
stride proud
in sleek leather
styles.”
FUNK, LEATHER SANDAL
CONNOR, GREY SNEAKER
7
”Butter-soft
leather is draped
for an interesting take on the
slide sandal.
These will look
equally amazing
on the beach as
in the city.”
NATALIA, LEATHER SANDAL
NATALIA, LEATHER SANDAL
8
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
Style Basics
Sartorial Essentials
For a man, the hair and the shoes are what define your first impression.
Make sure you get the latter right with these must-have evergreen styles you’ll
be wearing this spring and beyond.
STYLIST’S TIP
Invest in
classics that last,
season
after season
The Classic Brouge - Mario
The Penny Loafer - Linhope
This all–round classic is a must have for every
well-dressed man. Suitable for all but the most
formal of occasions — they work just as well with
rolled–up jeans, chinos or a suit.
Calling all modern dandies –the suede loafer
manages to look incredibly elegant and relaxed
at the same time. Make them your go-to shoe for
keeping it suave all summer.
The Casual Derby - Belgrano
The Suede Oxford - Mario
This masculine staple gets an updated touch with
contrasting soles. They really go with everything,
and adds a subtly modern twist. Wear them with
anything but socks.
Sandy-beige suede only gets better with a
bit of patina. Wear yours with cropped trousers,
rolled-up jeans and top off with crisp shirting.
VISIT OU R ON LIN E SHOP FOR FU RTHER DETA ILS A B OU T STYLES ETC.
9
10
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
The New Breed–Multi-talented and brave: Lydia, Bianca and
Constance represent a new generation of cultivated creatives that redefine
what it means to be a #modernvagabond.
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
Lydia
Graham
As an actress with an
unconvential, gender-bending
sense of style. Lydia is a master
of changing and capturing
characters.
INSTAGRAM @ohliydiagraham
P H O T O G R A P H E D B Y S E R G E L E B L O N , S T Y L I N G B Y N I C O L E WA L K E R
13
LY D I A W E A R S C I N T I A S N E A K E R
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
”After all, nobody’s original, no matter
how hard you try to be.”
character. Because speaking in front
of new people is much scarier. There’s less room to be embarrassed or
afraid to make a fool of yourself and
you really have to become someone
you’re not.
20 year-old Lydia Graham has the
kind of rare beauty that demands a
second look. With raven-black hair
and piercing green eyes, the tomboy
exudes both confidence and fragility
at the same time. An ambiguity that
might just be her greatest strenght.
Describe yourself with three
words. I’m quite stubborn, cheeky
and easy-going.
What makes a good actor? I think
it’s someone who’s really getting into
the role. Method acting really shows
on the screen, you can’t just do it
half-heartedly.
Is acting very different from modelling? It’s a lot harder. Though models typically do move on to acting,
speaking is such a hard thing to do in
things that they never could have
done ten years ago. This is of course
really good but it’s also intimidating.
Though it inspires me and makes me
want to be as good as them.
Where will you be in five years?
Hopefully, still in London, I love London. Maybe I’ll have a nicer house than
what I’m living in today? I still want to
keep doing both modelling and acting.
What do you do to kill the nerves? Sometimes, you’re just on a roll.
When I started taking acting classes
I was asked to improvise and while I
dreaded the idea of it in the beginning. I found my confidence as soon
as I started doing it. Even though I’m
constantly working in front of the
camera I have a bit of stage fright. I
need to remind myself that it’s actually really fun and that kicks the anxiety.
That’s the best bit.
What does it mean to be a modern vagabond to you? It describes
someone that hops from city to city,
constantly travelling. All my friends
are like that. Everyone is from everywhere so, in a sense, more or less,
everyone is a modern vagabond these days. Nobody stays in one place
anymore.
Describe your style? My style is
simple but refined. I like boyish things,
mixing them with girlier pieces. Tailored trousers with a tee, or a cutesy
dress with chunky boots, a clash of
masculine and feminine always looks
nice.
How would you describe the creative vibe in London? Right now, it’s all
very 90s. Almost in a chavvy way, but
still very cool.
What does creativity mean to you?
Being creative is expressing your personality and inspiring other people.
After all, nobody’s original, no matter
how hard you try to be. Everyone is
always inspired by something or someone else. Being creative is about
showing your own personality but also
making it your unique style.
How’s it like being a young woman
in the creative business? The competitiveness is tough, there are so many
women in this industry now and that’s
very empowering. Girls are doing new
LYDIA’S LOOK
Sports Redefined
High-tech sports shapes meet unconventional detailing
for shoes that provide a modern contrast.
CINTIA
The Scuba Sneaker
KASAI
The Breezy Weave
16
LOLA
The Sports Sandal
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
Bianca
O’Brien
The multitalented writer
Bianca is a cultured minimalist
who refuses to let physical things
weigh her down.
INSTAGRAM @iambiancaobrien
P H O T O G R A P H E D B Y C H R I S T I A N H Ö G S T E D T, S T Y L I N G B Y N I C O L E WA L K E R
17
SPRING & SUMMER 16
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
”A modern vagabond is a wanderer
for modern reasons.
Exactly what I am, actually.”
Model, dancer, actress, author, magazine editor, art curator, the list of
creative roles Bianca manages is seemingly endless. Having moved from
London to now reside in Paris she
keeps herself busy in the hub of Europe while keeping her hands free of
material items.
What do you exactly do? I’m right
now in the process of writing a book. I
also write for different magazines, sometimes it’s about a topic, sometimes
it’s an interview and sometimes I get
commissioned to write a synopsis or a
monologue for a short film. I write ideas for other people but also keep a lot
for my own projects. I once used to be
a dancer so I also do dance and choreography. I tend to do both sides of
the coin. I do directing and I do acting
since I’ve studied film. I’ve worked as a
model but also as a casting director, I
do art curations for charity, I edit a magazine about art and photography. But
mainly I just lie in bed watching movies
and reading, it’s important research.
Of all your occupations, what do
you enjoy the most? I’d say writing.
I started dancing four years old, and
I love it but it’s easier to write every
day for a purpose than to be dancing.
The same goes for directing and for
art curation.
Do you have a greater vision with
all your work? Yes, it has always been
about a bigger picture. That’s also
why I do such a variety of things but
somehow it all does fit together. My
goal is to end up in a situation where
I can work and each week is doing something that’s wildly different but in
fact is not. A bit like what Tilda Swinton does. One day, you might be doing
theatre and the next be writing or producing choreography or perhaps writing a screenplay. I like the idea of building a situation where I can live and
create things worth reading and watching. And to wrap myself up in all the
reasons why. Though in the end I just
do it, it’s all better than doing nothing.
What challenges do you face being
in the creative field? Definitely making
enough money to finance your next
project. When you start out, all the
best options that come along have no
budget. So It’s a struggle to survive until you bring in the big bucks.
What do you miss being away from
home? My books, I grew up surrounded
by books and I’ll always have it that way.
I used to put books down the back of my
headboard as a child. I did this because of two reasons. Firstly, I worried my
mom would get rid of books I’ve read, I
always wanted to keep them for future
references. Secondly, I thought it would
be good for my mind to sleep with
books I liked around my head. I believed
there would be some kind of creative osmosis while I slept.
What does creativity mean to you?
People tend to differentiate between
people who work in the creative field
and those who work in the “normal”
industry. I’ve discovered that there are
creatives in every type of industry. For
example; being a farmer doesn’t mean
you’re not creative. There are just different forms of it. For me, it’s just something I can’t avoid, albeit life would
be easier to live without thinking in a
creative manner it’s something I have
to do everyday or else I wouldn’t function. It’s a way for me to purge things
and stay relaxed.
The only thing I find difficult is being my own boss. You’re sometimes
willingly lazy and other times you
overwork. There’s nothing restricting
you. I’ve tried more “normal” jobs but
ended up becoming introvert, feeling
depressed and difficult to be around.
It’s something I have to do every day.
What do you do when you’re feeling homesick? There was a time
when I was addicted to travelling and
wouldn’t stay anywhere for more than
a couple of weeks. Even in the same
city I would move because I got bored of
taking the same metro, using the same
key, cooking in the same kitchen ... I got
to a point where I would be on the go
so much that I was relinquishing any
item. I didn’t want to bring anything
with me. At some point I had to prove
to myself that I could stay in one place
and finding joy in having a home. Still,
my home is inside of me, wherever I go
I feel at home, it doesn’t matter if a place is ugly or the most beautiful. To me
it’s equally interesting.
The ”modern vagabond” title suits
me, being a wanderer but for modern
reasons is exactly what I am actually.
BIANCA’S LOOK
Reduced to Perfection
Clean, refined and reinvented – Echoing the present-day
requirements of comfort and uncomplicated style.
B I A N C A W E A R S PA U L A
DAISY
The Stretch Shoe
AYA
The Slingback Flat
20
NATALIA
The Leather Sandal
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
Constance
Power
To an ever-changing beat,
Constance is the artist with a
musical expression as convincing
as her off-beat sense of style.
INSTAGRAM & SOUNDCLOUD @itsconniesworld
P H O T O G R A P H E D B Y S E R G E L E B L O N , S T Y L I N G B Y N I C O L E WA L K E R
21
C O N S TA N C E W E A R S N O O R
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
”My music is an expression of my
emotions at a time”
who rather prefers to go by her
nickname Connie, advices on solitude
and considers creativity to be her very
purpose. Never minding the struggle it
takes to make it in the music industry.
Tell us about your music? My music
that’s out now is very soul/electronic
but the stuff I’m working on is becoming more punk and indie rock.
What does creativity mean to you?Creativity to me is basically my whole
purpose. I feel like I was born to create.
Everyday I write songs and think about
how a video could work to a song. It’s
an expression of my emotions of a time.
How is London as a creative? Being creative in London is very testing,
which I like. There are ups and downs
but you see new things all the time.
You’re always inspired and I can always
find something to write about.
What’s the hardest part about
being an artist? Staying focused,
you need to have a space where you
just can let things unravel and not be
distracted by external things. Especially being young, I always have friends
wanting to hang out or go out. This has
made me super-introverted at times
but when I’m in the mood I can be very
outgoing and happy. It depends on the
people I’m around.
Being a young woman working in
the creative business what are the
biggest challenges? The biggest challenge probably is to not only be a woman in everything I do. I often get pidgeonholed as a ”female something.”
But instead, I’d rather just be seen for
my art rather than my gender. Most
people have a blind eye even before
they listen to my music, just because
they’ve judged me by appearance.
What advice would you give to
other creatives in your age? To spend
more times by themselves. Little
things, like grabbing a meal or going
to the cinema. You can really learn
what you actually like without compromises or feeling awkward about
someone else. It’s one of the most important things to do as a young person
and once you come of age you already
know your yes or no’s. Learning to say
no is a hard thing as a kid but by doing
this you can learn what isn’t for you.
You’re really keen on fashion, how
would you describe your style? Right
now I’ve changed my hair so it’s going
a bit 90s. I think my generation views
fashion by taking more interest in individuals rather than say, a collection.
It’s inspiring when people know who
they are and are able to express it on
the outside. When someone dares to
be original and you can tell it’s coming
from a pure place. People respond to
that because they want those confi-
dent qualities as well. If I see someone wearing something they’ve created
themselves and it’s very unique then
I’ll feel inspired. I’ll go: “damn I wanna
be able to do that myself” or get something similar that fits me.
What does “modern vagabond”
mean to you? Someone who’s travelling around, just floating. It’s pretty
much me right now – no fixed address.
Floating from one friends house to
another trying to stay above water
and just be happy. It’s such a hard
thing to live without structure or any
cemented place in your life.
How’s the future looking for you?
If you are to dream. I’d definitely like
to be doing a world tour within the
next five years. Having a really nice
house with a dog would be great too.
CONSTANCE´S LOOK
Into the Groove
Vintage-inspired platform styles is set for a comeback this spring with
stacked-wood heels, suede and a natural colour palette.
C O N S TA N C E W E A R S N O O R
IVY
The Chunky Sandal
KALEY
The Elevated Derby
24
NOOR
The Wooden Sandal
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
Sports
Redefined
The lines between formal and casual are blurred more than ever
and the clash between sports and tailoring define a new, easy attitude.
P H O T O G R A P H E D B Y C H R I S T I A N H Ö G S T E D T, S T Y L I N G B Y N I C O L E WA L K E R
B AG N O 2 8
26
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
CO N N O R W H I T E S N E A K E R
27
SPRING & SUMMER 16
JEREMY CUPSOLE SNEAKER
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
Introducing
Vagabond Atelier
the Non-animal Collection
Vagabond Atelier is our forum for innovation & creation. For these collections,
our ambition is to work on less commercially driven ideas, daring ourselves to try
something new. Here, we are free to discuss shoe fashion from perspectives such
as sustainability, material innovation and design. The goal is to reach new,
unexpected heights in our design and production.
Faux-Leather
Replacing leather with synthetic alternatives is a challenge, especially to ensure
comfort and style. We’ve chosen a PVCfree, fabric-backed polyurethane option
that has a convincing look and hand feel.
Cork
To cushion the inner sole and provide
a comfortable and breathable wearing experience replacing leather is a
challenge. Here, synthetic options are
usually uncomfortable to wear. Natural
cork however, shapes itself according
to the wearer and lets the foot breathe.
Glue
All shoe production requires extensive
use of glue. While this is usually made
of by-products from the meat and fish
industry. We have taken the initiative
to develop our own glue completely
free of animal origin.
DARIA
Platform Sandal
CASEY
Platform Sneaker
NOOR
Wooden Sandal
CASEY
Platform Sneaker
Finish
Even polishing and shining the shoes is
a process that requires different alternatives. Beeswax and lanolin is replaced with a plant-based waxes instead
making sure the shoes have just the
right finish and sheen.
Our first Atelier collection is made using purely materials of non-animalic origin. This is our
initiative to experiment and use more sustainable materials, offering an options to vegan customers.
All while keeping the same fashionable look and comfort Vagabond is known for.
T H E AT E L I E R C O L L E C T I O N W I L L O N LY B E AVA I L A B L E O N L I N E A N D I N S E L E C T E D VAG A B O N D S TO R E S .
29
30
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
The Edit
It’s in the bag
The world consists of two kinds of people; those who carelessly fit their
essentials in a miniscule bag and those who tirelessly drag around their entire lives
in it (including their kitchen sink). Basically, the perfect bag depends on who you
are, here are our favourites for any occasion.
Mini-me
The petite cross-body
style has given the
evening clutch a real
good run as the number one party option.
After all, shouldn’t
your hands be busy
holding so much else
than a bag at a party?
Saddle up!
The rich cognac hue
of this saddle bag
looks as timeless as
it is versatile. Big
enough to fit your
must-haves and a little
more, this is the
perfect everyday size.
The shopper tote
BAG NO 66
BAG NO 65
With its super-simple
styling, the shopper
bag is roomy enough
to fit a good deal of
stuff while still being
easy to carry — in
your hand or under
your arm.
The messenger bag is
a great everyday option
that comfortably carries
on the shoulder.
BAG NO 48 AND 71
The messenger
The backpack
Decidedly
un-glamorous, the
utilitarian cross-body
bag makes an unexpectedly cool option
for clubbing.
Could a bag be as
practical as it is stylish? The truth is: once
you go backpack, you
never go back.
31
BAG NO 28
BAG NO 59
BAG NO 36
The anti it-bag.
32
THE SHOEMAKERS JOURNAL
SPRING & SUMMER 16
Make it Last
The future of fashion
An eco-conscious mindset is becoming the norm rather than exception, and it doesn’t imply
compromising on fashionability. Every little thing matters: this is not a side issue — it’s the
fundamental future of fashion, says Emma Elwin and Lisa Corneliusson, editors and founders of
editorial platform makeitlast.se. Here, they give their four best tips for a more sustainable style.
1.
Identify your best 10 items and
take it from there!
More than a few of us are probably
familiar with a vicious thing called a fashion craving; that intense must-have
impulse when seeing something new
and exciting.
Riding through those initial feelings
of not being complete without this
item is a good idea. Give yourself time
to consider; is this something I’ll wear
for a while, or do I just crave that look
of the season? One way of finding out
is to identify your most used clothes;
the go-to pieces. When investing in something new, consider if it fits into that
lineup. That way, you’ll start building a
wardrobe that lasts.
2.
Consider not only styles but
also materials.
It’s easy to get caught up on a specific style, but if it doesn’t make you feel
comfortable, or last for longer than the
first wash, it’s really not worth it. Considering the material often gives you a
clue about the garment’s production
process. Tracing every step of the production is hard and often the “made in”
tag doesn’t mean much. There are so
many stages of production; sourcing,
spinning, weaving, knitting, dyeing,
embroidering, assembling, finishing
and it’s rarely done in one place.
Nevertheless, choosing environmentally responsible materials — whether
natural or synthetic and tracing their
production chain will definitely give
you a better idea of whether the garment is worth the investment. Needless to say, knowing about every single
part of the production process is such
a bliss — you’ll wear the piece with pride.
3.
Take care of your clothes and
shoes— they need love just like us.
Clothes, and shoes in particular, last
longer if they’re given love and care.
Natural fibres like wool and cashmere
are better off aired-out or spot-cleaned than being washed. In fact, over-
33
washing is a common mistake. This not
only wastes resources but also wears
on the clothing. When it comes to
shoes, let them rest and polish as instructed. Make sure to protect leather
from drying out by regularly conditioning the leather. If the shoes get soaking wet, stuff them with crumpled-up
newspaper and let them dry naturally.
Also, repair instead of replace, either
yourself or with your local tailor or cobbler. It’s fantastic what skilled craftsmen
can do to seemingly worn out pieces.
4.
Buy vintage, rent or borrow
from a friend.
Going to a once-in-a-lifetime event?
Skiing for the first and possibly the
last time? Consider options to buying new. Find a more original dress
in a second-hand store or use one of
those sites renting out designer pieces
(yes, they exist!). Or perhaps you know
what you want to wear anyway — and
it’s right in your friend’s wardrobe. That
goes both ways, share and don’t be selfish about your wardrobe! Maximum use
is a good thing. If you’re dealing with
high-quality fashion, a little wear and
tear usually only makes the clothes even
better and more comfortable.
Makeitlast.se is an online magazine dedicated to sustainable fashion. The site indulges in products
and projects that have the planet
and the people in mind when producing or consuming fashion. Because
it makes sense — and because it’s
more inspiring!
N ATA L I A L E AT H E R S A N D A L
EXPERIENCE THE WHOLE COLLECTION AT VAGABOND.COM #MODERNVAGABOND