Manual - Pfaff
Transcription
Manual - Pfaff
I >19 UO!TDflJ}SUI U LcE ©A©D© ®JJVJd Fold out this page Index Operating instructions (Index sewing instructions see page 36/37) B Balancing out and pattern length setting 21. 22 Bobbin winding preparations 4, 5 C Changing the light bulb Changing the needle Changing the sewing foot Checking the bobbin thread tension Checking the needle thread tension Cleaning and oiling Creative computer keyboard D Detachable work support and accessories Drawing up the bobbin thread Dual feed E Electrical connection F Foot control Function keys of the electronic system Important notes Inserting the bobbin Inserting the bobbin case L Lowering the feed dog 31 27 30 8 14 31 19 28, 29 12 16 2, 14 18 32 8 27 N Needle position left, right 20, 78. 79 p Pattern mirroring Pattern-start setting Placing spool of thread on pin Presser bar litter Program selection 24 25 9 13 20 R Replacing the fuse 32 S Safety rules, on fold-out page, and on page Sewing feet Sewing single patterns Special accessories Stitch length and pattern length setting Stitch width setting Storing program combinations 22, Straight-stitch needle position 20, Straight-stitch sewing 26 29 24 33 21 20 23 25 25 T Thread cutter Twin-needle sewing 15 24 U Upper threading 10, 11 w Winding from a second spool Winding through the needle 6 7 z Zigzag sewing 26 MPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS rhis sewing machine is designed and manufactured for HOUSEHOLD use only. Nhen using an electric appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, ncluding the following: ead all instructions before using this sewing machine. DAI\IGER To reduce the risk of electric schock: I. The sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning. ?. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts. . Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately. . Do not place or store sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid. V V IAIADMr4JG To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric schock, or injury to persons: 1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children. 2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual, Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual. 3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for exami nation, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment. 4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth. 5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening. 6. Do not use outdoors. 7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray> products are being used or where oxygen is being administered. 8. To disconnect, turn all controls to off (“0”) position, then remove plug from outlet. 9. Never operate on a soft surface such as a bed or couch where the air openings may be blocked. 10. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord. 11. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle. 12. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break. 13. Do not use bent or blunt needles. Use needles recommended by the manufacturer only. 14. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break. 15. Switch the sewing machine off (“0’) when making any adjustments in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc. 16. Always unplug sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual. 17. Hold plug when rewinding into cord reel. Do not allow plug to whip when re winding. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS 4 Parts of your sewing machine 100 Carrying handle 101 Hinged top cover 102 Hand wheel 103 Stop motion knob 104 Display 105 “Correct/erase” key 106 “Store program” key 107 Master switch 108 Detachable work support with accessory box and compartment 109 Needle plate 110 Sewing foot holder with sewing foot 111 Needle holder with retaining screw 112 Bobbin thread monitor light 113 “Needle down” key 114 Sew slow” key 115 ‘Reverse’ key 116 “Tie-off/buttonhole/single pattern” key 117 Presser bar 118 Presser bar lifter 119 Program display 120 Program chart 121 Bobbin winder 122 “Pattern mirroring” key 123 “Pattern start’ key 124 Balancing-out & pattern length keys 125 Stitch length & pattern length keys (program check) 126 Base plate 127 Free arm cover, enclosing sewing hook 128 Free arm 129 Threader 130 Sewing light 131 Threading slots 132 Needle thread tension 133 Bobbin winder thread guide 134 Take-up lever 135 Dual feed 136 Bobbin winder thread guide (swing-out) 137 Spool holder with unreeling disc 138 Second spool holder (swing-up) 139 4 program keys 140 Stitch width keys 141 Thread cutter t Electrical connection Lift off the cover. Fold down the carrying handle. Compartment A con tains foot control, power cord, and Instruction Book. Open cover 101. Plug in the machine. 2 D CD CD 0 -1 —4 0 C, 0 CD 0 _ :- C) C) a CD_. — D CD DO 0 :z o — C) CC, C)30 N / 0 0 CD 0 C 0 a 0 C) CD 0 D = cc Bobbin winding preparations: Reach under the work support and swing it out toward the left. Open free arm cover 1 27. seIatchAandkeouUhe / I 4 4Place the bobbin on winder 121 and turn it until pin A engages in slot B. I Disengaging the sewing mechanism: Hold the hand wheel steady and turn knob 103 towards you. Swing the second thread spool holder towards the back. Push a spool of thread and the small unreeling disc C onto the holder. N EZ é’ prøg e 4 Winding from a second spool: Switch on master switch. Swing bobbin winder thread guide 136 forward. Pull the thread through guide 133, then into bobbin winder tension A and around guide lug B. Lead the thread to winder 121 and wind a few turns on the bobbin clockwise. Push the bobbin to the right. Press down the foot control and wind the bobbin. Push the full bobbin to the left, remove it from the winder spindle, and cut the thread. Important: It is not possible to wind the bobbin when the MEM memory is selected and when it is empty. Before winding is begun, a program between 00 and 50 must be selected. When winding from a thread spool with thread slot, the slot must point to the right of the spool holder. I 6 Engaging the sewing mechanism: Hold the wheel firmly, turn disc 103 towards the back, then turn the hand forward until it snaps in. Winding through the needle )nIy with metal sewing tootl witch on master switch. Swing bobbin winder thread guide 136 forward. Raise the sewing foot with the needle ti “up” position. Push the bobbin onto winder 121. Disengage the sewing mechanism. Draw the needle thread under the sewing foot, to the right, and through thread guide 136 (into slot A md around lug B, see illustr.). Wind a low turns of thread on the bobbin and push the latter to the right. Press down lie foot control and wind the bobbin. Push the full bobbin to the left, remove It from the winder spindle, and cut the hread. Important: It is not possible to wind the bobbin when the MEM memory is ‘,elected and when it is empty. Before winding is begun, a program between 00 and 50 must be selected. Engaging the sewing mechanism: Hold the wheel firmly, turn disc 103 towards the back, then turn the hand wheel forward until it snaps in. 4 inserting the bobbin: insert bobbin sc that thread unwinds towards the back (A). Draw the thread into slot B and into eye C. 4- Checking the bobbin thread tension: With a brief, sharp upward movement of your hand the bobbin must gra dually slip downwards. (Turn screw 0 to the right for stronger tension and b the left for weaker tension). 4 N Inserting the bobbin case: Switch off master switch 107. Raise latch A and push the bobbin case onto stud B as far as it will go, making sure cutout C points upwards. \ 4 Placing spool of thread on pin: Pace the small or medium-size unreeling disc D in front of small spools, and the large disc E in front of large spools. Upper threading: Switch off master switch 107. With the needle in its top position, raise the sewmg foot. Draw the thread into slot A, to the left past guide C, from below into slot B and takeup lever 134 (see arrows), then back into slot B and into the right thread guide on the needle holder. Place the needle thread behind hook D and hold it there. Pull threader 129 fully down. Swing threader in to needle. Place thread into hook E. Swing threader back, release thread at same time and let threader move back up Then pull the thread fully through 4 0 0 CD 3 CD CD CD CD 0 C) 4 OC ta) CD P CD. CD— I CD CD CD CD CD CD” ar CDCDCD.m oTa- CDCD5 ta-p N 4 I I Swing back work support 108. LH II I N Switch off master switch 107. Place fabric under sewing foot, J 4 To insert extrathick fabric plies raise lever 118 higher. /17 Switch on master switch. Lower presser bar lifter 118. (Position A” is the darning position.) - \\, \, Operating the foot control: The farther you press the pedal down, the faster the machine runs. Needle thread tension 132 A = Setting mark. \‘ Important! The following is essential for obtaining good sewing results: 1. The needle must be in order. 2. The needle- and bobbin thread tensions must be right. The bobbin thread tension has been correctly set at the works. If after checking of the bobbin thread tension (see p. 8) a correction is necessary, the adjusting screw must only be turned minimally. Checking the needle thread tension: Normal setting is between 3 and 5. The higher the number, the tighter the ten sion. To check the tension, set a wide zigzag stitch. Sew a short seam. The threads must interlock in the middle of the material. Setting 3 is for sewing buttonholes. 4Raise presser bar litter 118. Remove the fabric at the rear. 4 Thread cutter 141: Pull the threads N through in the direcfion of the arrow. 15 Dual feed It prevents shifting of the material plies during sewing. Before engaging or disengaging the dual feed always raise the sewing foot. 4 To engage: lower top feed 135 until it snaps in place. To disengage: push top feed lightly downwards, pull it towards the rear and let it move upwards. Operating keys of the &ectronic system These are described on the foIowing pages. 17 4 Function keys of the electronic system Description on the following pages. 112 Bobbin thread monitor light 113 “Needle down” key 114 “Sew slow” key 115 “Reverse” key 116 “Tie-off/buttonhole/single pattern” key Needle up and down positions: When the machine stops, the needle is always retained at its up position. When you press “needle down” key 113, the indicator light goes on and the needle remains down in the fabric when the machine stops. When you press key 113 again, the light goes out, the needle moves up and remains up. Electronic top speed selection: When you press “sew slow” key 114, the indicator light goes on and the machine sews at half its speed. When you press key 114 again, the light goes out and the machine again sews at top speed. N Electronic bobbin thread monitor: Bobbin thread monitor light 112 starts to flash when the bobbin thread is run ning out. It goes out when a full bobbin is inserted and sewing is resumed. Important: Free arm cover 127 must be kept closed. Tie-off/buttonhole/single pattern: When you press key 116, the indicator light goes on and the programmed seam is tied off at the beginning, then the light goes out again. When you press the key during sewing, the light goes on and a seam is tied off right away, while a pattern is tied off at the end. Then the light goes out, Button hole: When buttonhole program 13 is on, key 116 serves to determine and memorize the seam length. Reverse sewing: Press “reverse” key 115 before you start sewing. The indi cator light goes on and the machine sews backwards permanently. When you press the key during sewing, the light does not go on and the machine sews backwards as long as you keep the key depressed. ____ _ ___ Operation of the Creative computer prog 1 4 Creative computer Display Program display Program keys Stitch width keys “Correct/erase” key “Store program’ key “Pattern mirroring” key “Pattern start” key Balancing-out & pattern length keys 125 Stitch length & pattern length keys and program check for combinations A “Twin-needle’ indicator fhe 04 19 39 40 05 106 122 123 124 The Creative computer contains an alphabet, numbers from 0 to 9, and 50 programs. The programs are illustrated together with the seam type and the corresponding setting number or sym bol in the table on the inside of the top cover. Each program contains the optimum seam width and length The programs can be changed with keys 140 “stitch width”, 125 “stitch length or pattern length”, and 124 “balancing-out or pat tern length” when the respective key is pressed and a figure appears in dis play 104, and when the respective indi cator light is on. The computer also contains a MEM memory for program combinations. 19 i ri iml prog o o Program seIection When the Creative is switched on, pro gram -00-appears in display 119. Enter the required number in program dis play 119 using program keys 139, The alphabet and number symbols are selected with the left key, while letters and numbers are selected with the right key. Stitch width setting The stitch width ranges from 0 to 6 mm. Key 140 has 3 functions: 1 Selection of stitch width for the respective program. 2. Selection of the size of letters and numbers. 3. Selection of straight stitch needle position for programs 00, 02 and 03 (13 positions). At a certain stitch width the symbol j appears. It means that a twin needle must no longer be used. LLTLtIII111 prog o & 2 o t 7/li L/Wi prog () 0 Stitch length and pattern length setting: Key 125 has three functions: 1. Stitch length selection. The stitch length ranges from 0 to 6 mm. A part of the programs has a limited stitch length. 2. Pattern length selection in pro grams 22 to 39. The pattern length range selectable depends on the program. 3. Checking function for program combinations. 2 N ELELj ()O10 9442 &&& Balancing out and pattern length setting: Key 124 has two functions: 1. Alteration of reverse stitch length for pattern compensation (see page 22 for explanation). 2. Selection of pattern length in mm for programs 40 to 48 and 50. The pattern length is independent of the stitch length selected (see above). 2 21 _____________________ Balancing out or reverse stitch correction Balancing out serves to correct pattern- or program combinations which are sewn with a slight shift owing to influences by the type of material or working method used. The stitch length of the reverse stitP 1 [ [ f I I I4Lj I I I lj prog t9 ‘ settings shorten the reverse minus stitches and the patterns or programs become longer, and the plus “+“ set tings lengthen the reverse stitches and the pattern or programs become shor ter. Examples: 1. Correction of individual patterns (also in the MEM-memory) Program: Corrected by 28 + 3 Rule: If the pattern is too long, cor rection has to be made by “+“ (from + 1 to + 7). 2. Correction of pattem and program combinations (in the MEM-memory) ‘ 5I Combination: -‘‘J=. V , ..‘ Corrected by: +3: Rule: If the last pattern or program or “+“ and is corrected with entered, this correction applies to the entire program combination. o 4 & & & & — ) progr.: 31 27 27 Pattern too long i 33 23 23 25 27 27 / Storing program combinations: Working with combinations of pro grams 00 to 50 and with letters and figures. 36 letters and figures can be stored in the MEM memory consecuti vely. It is also possible to store 12 pro a grams from the series 00 to 50 indic MEM the in r cove top e insid the ted on memory. Letters and figures can be 50. combined with the programs 00 to Storing: First select MEM with the left is program key 139. The MEM memory in e mad is ation indic no when ty emp display 104. Select the individual pro grams, letters and figures with pro gram keys 139, then press program . storage key 106 (mem+) to store The individual program numbers, let ters or figures appear in display 104. Before they are stored, the program seams can be varied in length and width Figures and texts in a program combination can only be sewn in one size. This size is determined by the If size set for the last letter or number. no more programs can be stored, the memory capacity of the computer is exhausted and two flashing dashes appear in the display. Checking a program combination in the display: The individual programs of a combina tion are displayed by repeatedly pres sing key 125. When key 125 is pressed continuously, the whole combination of programs runs off on display 104. The first program of a combination is indicated by the symbol E at the left of the figure. The last program is indica ted by at the right of the figure. When the pedal is pressed, the machine switches to the beginning of the combination. Cancelling a program combination: Press “Correct/erase” key 105 (me m —). The last program of a com bination appears in display 104. Pres sing key 105 again erases the last pro gram of a combination. Press key 105 repeatedly until the whole combinatior is erased. t Sewing single patterns: Before and after sewing start key 116 must be pressed. The machine then sews a pat tern and ties it off at the beginning and end. Twin-needle sewing: If symbol A is lit the stitch width must be reduced. When symbol A has gone out, the pro gram can be sewn with the twin needle, There are programs which can not be sewn with the twin needle. The indicator is then lit permanently. 28 [p j p109 ‘irogr. 24 35 50 24 o o o Pattern mirroring: Press key 122. Indicator A is lit and the program is sewn mirror-inverted. Com binations can be mirrored by pressing key 122 before sewing start. It is also possible to enter a program mirror-inverted in a combination. When another program is selected, this func tion is automatically switched oft, and key 122 must be actuated again if the program is to be entered mirror-inver ted. ____ ______ _ ____ __ ____ _______ [ii.wzJ prog <>o T o 42 o o i//i/i/i/i//i I Pattern-start setting Press “pattern start” key 123. A pat tern or a combination in progress is reset to the start. - L±i —-—-- - -=-----——— LLLLI prog --- I o 49 /// — o o 9 9 / / /// / / Straight-stitch sewing Program 00 is straight stitch with 13 needle positions. Program 02 is the triple straight stitch with stitch lengths of 1.5 to 3 mm, and Program 03 with lengths of 3 to 6 mm; both with 13 needle positions. Set the required stitch length at key 125. With key 140 the needle position can be varied in 13 steps to the left (key—) and to the right (key +) as seen from the central position. EOTLJTUJ prog o 4949494949 o o 4)4) ///////////// 25 ______________________ 4 [LwwiJ&4 prog && [iii’ prOg ()o o o o & 9 6fi Zigzag sewing: Program 10 is a zigzag stitch with the needle in center position. Program 11 is a zigzag stitch with the needle starting out from the right needle position. Select stitch width of 0,5 to 6.0 mm with key 140, Set the required stitch length with key 125. L11rn1 <)0 0 4949 &&& C’ 0 /;)/) /(/ _ — Some safety rules valid for United Kingdom only Some safety rules a) Take care to avoid injury to your fingers by the needle during sewing. b) Make sure you unplug the power cord whenever you have to leave the machine or want to clean it, oil it or change mechanical and accessory parts. c) Be sure to use only a 15-watt light bulb in the sewing lamp. d) The drive belt must never be adjusted by anyone but an authori zed Pfaff agent. The wires in the mains lead are colour ed according to the following code: Blue: Neutral Brown: Live As the colours of the wires in the mains lead of this appliance may not correspond with the colour coding of the terminals in your plug, proceed as follows: the wire which is coloured blue must be connected to the termi nal which is marked with the letter N or coloured black. The wire which is coloured brown must be connected to the terminal which is marked with the letter L or coloured red. Please note: When a 13-ampere plug is used, a 3-ampere fuse has to be fitted. -.4 0 -m 00D D(0 —0 D a 0Dm ( 0 N 1481 81B PJUMO1 4fl0 T! 6U!MS pu ljoddns NJM 8 JapUfl qO81 t Detachable work support and acces sories: The work support can be lifted out (A). Open its lid and take out accessory box C. Underneath the box is an accessory compartment B. Illustration D shows how to arrange sewing feet, needles and bobbins in the accessory box. Sewing feet (standard accessories) O Ordinary sewing foot 1 Fancy-stitch foot, for dual feed 2 Fancy-stitch foot, for bottom feed 3 Blindstitch- and overlock foot 4 Zipper- and edge-sewing foot 5 Buttonhole foot 6 Darning foot 7 Hemming foot 8 Edge guide I 4 Removing sewing foot: switch off ma ster switch 107. Needle must be raised. Push the sewing foot downwards at the front. The foot snaps out. To change the buttonhole foot, first pull the runner of the foot fully to the front and than swing the work support to the left. Fitting the sewing foot: Lower lifting lever and locate foot so that pins A enter grooves B. I C and D are for attaching accessories. E is the sewing foot screw. 30 N N Cleaning and oiling Pull out the mains plug. Tilt the needle plate up at the back (A) and remove it (B). Clean the feed dog and the parts in the vicinity of the sewing hook with a soft brush. Clean the bobbin thread monitor as instruc ted on page 113. After 15—20 opera tion hours, only apply a drop of oil in the hook raceway (see illustration). The machine is maintenance-free and must not be oiled otherwise. Inserting the needle plate Place the needle plate on with its left side first and press it in until the retaining hook snaps in audibly. Then press the right side firmly down until it also snaps in. Check the correct position of the needle plate. 4 Changing the light bulb: N Pull out the mains plug. Reach under the work support and swing it out toward the left. Close the hinged top cover and swing up the carrying handle. Insert the edge guide into cutout D, push down the lamp housing and hold it there. Push the bulb upwards, turn it in direction A and pull it out. Insert the new bulb so that its pins enter slots C. Push it up and turn it towards B. Pull out the edge guide. 31 4 Replacing the fuse Pull out the mains plug. Turn fuse hol der A left a quarter turn with a screw driver, release it and take it out. Pull out fuse 8. Insert a new fuse in the hol der, replace the holder, push it in with the screwdriver, then turn it right a quarter turn. (The fuse type is F2A.) 1 10-volt machines have no fuse. / Important When the machine is switched on by actuating the master switch, the sewing light goes on and program 00 (straight stitching with the needle in its middle position) appears in the display. If a program is entered during sewing, it will not become effective until the machine has stopped and the foot control is pressed again. Stitch length and stitch width can be changed during sewing. For bobbin winding disengage the sewing mechanism. After bobbin winding make sure you re-engage the sewing mechanism. Owing to the use of electronic compo nents, the machine will warm up. This is quite normal. I 32 Special accessories sewing work. They can be obtained fror The special accessories listed below are intended for special . charge extra an at dealer -our 4_ Special accessories Part No. Sewing Operation Appliqué foot 93-042 941-91 For appliqué work Binder (remove sewing foot holder) 98 053 484-91 For binding edges with tape Cording foot, 5 grooves (twin needle with 1 8-2.5 mm needle gauge) 93 042 950 9 —-—- - .-——.——--——— Cording foot, 7 grooves (twin needle with 1.4-1.8 mm needle gauge) .— .-—-—-—----—-.-—----— —-—-——-——-.—-------- - —— - 1 —..•—.—— Cording blade (2 ea.) 93-035 952-45 Fringe sewing foot 93-042 943-9 1 Straight-stitch foot with round needle hole ———---——----— --—------- Felling foot, 4.5 mm For sewing fringes and for basting 98-694 821 -00 —-------——--———— —-——-—— Needle plate with round needle hole For cording work (needle size 80, for fine cording needle size 70) 98-694 827-00 For topstitching and sewing very fabrics 93-042 946-91 —.--.——..--—--.--—..— For felled seams Felling foot, 6.5 mm 93-042 948-91 Shirring foot 93-036 998-9 1 For shirring valances, etc. Multi-stitch shirring device 98-999 650-00 For shirring valances, etc. Single-needle cording foot 93-036 915-91 For single-needle cording Eyeletting plate 93-036 976-45 For eyelet embroideries ‘‘c° 98-694 823-00 For hemming edges Roll hemmer, 2 mm 93-694 873-00 For hemming edges Knit edge sewing foot 93-042 957-91 For sewing knitted fabrics . For sewing plastic, Congratu’ations! Your new PFAFF Creative makes you the owner of one of the world’s finest sewing machines. It is a high-quality machine possessing a large number of outstanding features which other sewing machines do not have. From the vast range of sewing possibilities offered by this machine we have compiled ideas and suggestions for you. These are divided into three groups, as follows: 1. Embroidery-stitch program 2. Programming embroidery stitches, numbers and letters 3. Straight-stitch, zigzag-stitch and utility-stitch programs as well as buttonhole program There will certainly be questions arising from time to time concerning sewing problems you encoun ter as a Creative fashion designer. Please feel free to contact your nearest PFAFF dealer at any time. He will be glad to help you. When you have studied the explanation of the control elements, we recommend that you read the following section just as thoroughly. This will enable you to make full use of the numerous appli cation possibilities afforded by this machine. We wish you many hours of enjoyable and successful sewing and creative needle work. 35 ndex Sewing instructions Appliqué work Assembly and serging seams Balancing out letters and numbers Basting Binding edges Binding edges with non-woven tape Blind stitch Buttonholes Capacity of MEM-memory Changing the needle position Changing the stitch length Changing the stitch width Checking the programs stored Closed overlock stitch Cording Correcting programs Cross stitches Darning Dual feed Edge binder Elastic stitch Embroidery stitch programs Eyelet buttonholes Eyelet embroidery 36 59 91,92 72 76 96 96 97 102—106 62, 66 78, 79 65 65 63 91 56, 57 63, 70 46—48 98—100 74 96 93 40—44 105 50, 51 F Fagotting stitch for corsetry Fault finding Fringe seams H Hemstitching Honeycomb stitch I Inserting lace Inserting patches L Lap-seam felling Lengthening patterns Linen embroidery Lycra stitch P.4 Monograms Multi-colour embroidery N Narrow Narrow Needle Needle hem with the hemmer foot pleats chart position left, right 112, 11: 5 51 93, 94 50 100 34 34 40 40—44 95 07 110, 11 78, 9 rnamental seams on leather vercasting stitch (verlock stitch with edge thread effect F 53 91 92 64 attern mirroring 38 ogram possibilities 66 F rogramming letters and numbers F rogramming names together with embroidery 70, 71 itches 62 ogramming the computer F uilting 60 ecommended machine settings oIled hem, roll hemmer Shell edging Shirring with elastic thread Shirring with shirring foot Shirring with straight stitch Single patterns Smocking with elastic thread Spacing between words Straight stitch Stretch triple straight stitch Stretch triple zigzag stitch T Tailors tacks Tips for embroidering and sewing Top stitch seams 82 Topstitching collar points Topstitching with the twin needle Twin needle 44, 56, 82 w ecuring hems with the twin needle electing the MEM-memory erging with the overlock foot erging with zigzag stitch ewing aid for thick seams ewing dots ewing hyphens/dashes ewing in zippers ewing numbers ewing on buttons Writing texts 62 89 89 73 67 68 107, 108 66 106 z Zigzag stitch Zippers for ladies slacks 70, 00 01 I I I 1 (—> I I I 25 ,4 <.> /41 I <—> 27 c* k2 .ti I I ,-“ 111 III iii 05 / V ‘ç< / 29 -i 40 36 37 20 /i c 22 21 13 /V 41 38 / !\ % 42 i7’j 43 . ./ 14 39 e /H 24 - ‘ 44 15 16 17 45 46 • 18 L- 47 19 30 “‘ 48 49 32 31 ‘ I 50 < Program possibilities • Straight-stitch, zigzag-stitch and utility-stitch programs from 00 to 21 • Embroidery-stitch programs from 22 to 36 and from 40 to 50 • Buttonhole program Lingerie buttonhole (Program 13) Eyelet buttonhole (Program 14) Button sewing program (Program 15) 38 23 I- ) —.— 35 09 / / L] 12 08 i 1)’ \, Th — 11 07 06 J —s _;Pck,’\: 28 j 10 04 03 26 ç (_ 02 • Cross-stitch program (Program 37) • Hem-stitching programs (Programs 38 and 39) • Alphabet program Block letters from A to Z • Numbers from 0 to 9 33 34 I prog 00 ‘ag — - 3 5 — normai sewing foot Machine settings recommended The box above every description of the sewing s jobs illustrated on the following pages contain the and ended recomm setting e machin the sewing foot best suited for the respective sewing job. The individual symbols stand for: prog e. g. straight stitch 00 Dual feed engaged or Dual feed disengaged Recommended needle thread tension, e, g. Recommended sewing foot, e. g. 3— 5 0 Ordinary sewing foot 39 Embroidery-stitch program Multi-colour embroidery These multi-colour embroidery possibilities se limits to your imagination. Carried out with gr: devotion to detail, colour and decorative effect multicolour embroidery gives your clothes 1 stamp of your personality. The following pages are intended as an inspr tion for ornamentation of dresses, blouses ar other garments with embroidery motifs made your Pfaff Creative. Transfer the pattern onto the face side of tr fabric with tracing paper. Always place two sheets of tissue paper under t material before you start sewing. r E1ij 04 43 44 46 —3+ 2 Sewing thread: Embroidery thread Motif 1 is made up of the programs indicate above. First workstep: stems • Program 04 • Change the stitch length to 2.5 mm. o Follow the traced lines with a program 0 seam. Second workstep: leaves • Program 44 • Change the stitch width to 4.0 mm. • Change the pattern length to 25. • Needle in down position. • Sew the leaf slightly curved, starting at tti stem. Leave the needle down in the fabric, tur the fabric through 180° and sew the patter backwards. All leaves can be sewn larger smaller by changing the pattern length. Third workstep: half flower • Program 46 • Stitch width: 5.0 mm • Pattern length: 20 • The tip of the pattern should contact the ster: Fourth workstep flowers • Program: 43 • Stitch width: 4.5 mm • Pattern length: 20 • Sew the petals, including those of the ha flower. Fifth workstep: flower centre (dot) • Program: 43 • Stitch width: 5.0 mm • Pattern length: 5.0 • Sew the flower centres (dots). 40 Ornamental borders You can give free rein to your creativity by combi ning various patterns. The ornamental borders illustrated on this page and described below are intended as a stimulus to your imagination. For sewing ornamental borders we recom mend using the fancy-stitch sewing foot No. 2. • Place tissue paper under the fabric. This will help you to achieve better sewing results. Border 1 consists of the following programs; 4.i} Z 43362528 ill 2 Th .— —3+ 2 Ffrst workstep, middle motif • Select program 43 • Stitch length 0.3 • Pattern length 8.0 • Presskeymem+ • Select program 36 • Press key mem + • Select program 43 • Stitch length 0.3 • Pattern length 8.0 (key 124) • Presskeymem+ • Select program 25 • Presskeymem+ • Sew the stored program. Second workstep, outer motiv • Select program 28 • Sew the selected program along either side of the middle motif. Border 2 ilIIlljIjflhIjIjjIIjjIIlll)iP prog 2 44 —3+ 2 • • • • • “illiJljIljlIIjJIfljllflh{”’ ,lIIlIIIlIlllI ._f& ° - Select program 44 Stitch width 4.0 mm Pattern length 25 (key 124) Press ‘needle down” key. Sew the selected pattern until the needle stops down in the material (1 in Fig. 3). Turn the material through 90’ (2 in Fig. 3). Sew the pattern until the needle stops down in the material (3 in Fig. 3). Turn the material through 180° (4 in Fig. 3), then sew the pattern backwards, as shown in Fig. 2. Repeat these two sewing actions until the border is complete (Fig. 2). 41 Border 1 { prog 24 22 43 - I (J -3+ 2 First workstep, centre motif • Select program 24 • Needle in down position Sew the programmed stitch pattern, as illusi ted. Shortly before you reach the end of h seam, press the “tieoff/buttonhole” key. At h end of the pattern the needle remains dowr the material. Turn the fabric through 1800. • Sew the pattern backwards in the same w i Second workstep, side motifs • Select program 22 • Change pattern length to 18 mm (key 125 Sew the programmed stitch pattern aloi both sides of the centre motif. The second sil motif can be sewn without turning the fabric b 1 pushing the ‘pattern mirroring” key. IIIV,1111 Third workstep, centre dots • Select program 43 • Change stitch width to 4.0 mm • Change stitch length to 0.25 mm • Change pattern length (key 124) to 5,0 Sew the programmed stitch pattern in t middle of the circles. 5 42 Border 1 prog c1 1j 04 31 43 —3+ 2 Begin by tracing the pattern on a piece of paper, then transfer it onto the fabric. First workstep, stems • Select program 04 and sew along the traced lines. Second workstep, leaves • Select program 43 • Stitch width 4.5 mm • Pattern lengths 12 10— 9.0— 8.0 (key 124) • Sew the leaves, starting at the stem. Third workstep, flowers • Select program 31 • Press “needle down” key The flowers are produced by turning the fabric. Sew the programmed stitch pattern until the needle stops down in the material. Turn the fabric through 90. Repeat this process three times. Fourth workstep, flower centre • Select program 43 • Stitch width 5,0 mm • Stitch length 0.25 mm • Pattern length 5.0 (key 124) Sew the programmed stitch pattern in the middle, as illustrated. Fifth workstep, bud centre • Select program 43 • Stitch width 2.5 mm • Stitch length 0.25 mm • Pattern length 3.0 (key 124) Sew the programmed stitch pattern, as illustra ted. — q --, !; ‘k Border 2 First workstep, centre motif • Select program 36 Sew the programmed stitch pattern. Second workstep, heart motif • Select program 30 Sew the programmed stitch pattern with the right edge of the sewing foot running along the centre motif. 2 43 Border 1 prog 41 33 36 -- - ((3 JJ 3—5 2 When tracing the scallops make sure their size corresponds to the pattern length of the program selected. Try the pattern out on a fabric scrap first. First workstep, outside edge • Select program 41 • Stitch width 6.0 mm • Pattern length 10 (key 124) • Press “needle down” key Sew the selected stitch pattern along the pre traced line. Second workstep, centre motif • Select program 33 • Press “needle down” key Sew the selected stitch pattern parallel to the stitch pattern sewn first, offsetting it by the width of the sewing foot. Third workstep, innermost motif • Select program 36 • Press “needle down’ key Sew the selected stitch pattern along the stitch pattern sewn previously, following it again at sewing-foot width (Fig. 1). 44 Sewing fancy seams with the twin needle Optional -iL 3—5 I F 2 Needle: twin needle, 1.6 mm gauge Very attractive fancy patterns can be sewn wi h the twin needle. The illustrations show some )f the dainty patterns that can be produced with a little imagination. If during pattern selection the crossed out twi needle symbol lights up, the stitch width has to Le reduced. After the symbol has disappeared, tf e pattern can be sewn with the twin needle. For sewing, use two reels of thread of differe’t colours. Place one reel on each reel pin ard secure it in position with the correspondiflg unreeling disc. Place one thread to the right ard the other to the left of disc “C”. Continue threa I ing in the usual way, threading each needle sepa rately. See page 56. Border 2 • Begin by sewing the centre motif. • Then sew along the scallops at sewing-foot width. • Finally sew the petal-shaped motifs at the scal lop tips (Fig. 2). - ,,7 -.7 .--. ‘ j -4 . .- -4 .T’ 7 .‘ 7* -4.--’ *-4,-4. . r: .--• L ...j 74 4 - - . . . -- - ---: . . 7. .- 7 1,)4 — -. 3 Sewing monograms with the embroidery foot r I I A I prog Thread: embroidering/darning thread Clear-lined block letters or monograms made by combining different ornamental patterns can be sewn without any difficulty. Trace the monogram on paper first, then transfer it to the fabric. Having done so, follow the outlines with the programmed stitch pattern chosen. To sew monograms on terry cloth, pin the paper pattern onto the fabric and sew along the traced outlines with a narrow zigzag stitch. Then sew over the contours of the monogram with the pro grammed stitch pattern chosen. 45 ErTTTTTTJJTEI 4. p I Cross stitches 40 (;rOSs-stitCh pattern available, aid sew your own pattern. • ii 4w Itie cross-stitch pattern on graph pa Fig 1). • iter the number of cross stitches for ev r pattern sequence in the MEM-memory. If the stored program is no longer requin d cancel it in the MEM-memory by pressing t ii. mem key (see page 62). • Fancy-stitch foot No. 2 has red marking in which make cross-stitch sewing easier for y u The crosswise lines in the foot indicate the pt tern start. • Let the left metal edge in the window of t foot run exactly along the line of the patte e sewn previously to avoid gaps between adjo. patterns. ing 4 — Some embroidery ideas: (not described) • ...‘. IS’. i 1 • I V S5 : • • S % s SI 4 fl 4 • , . • S ,. ; I •r I • :t:;.i 1 •4 S • • I: Sb • • ii. . S SI .4 • lb ii .. :bb ptit I: . f • • iS ..;: II • I I 1 i 5 : 1 . i•. • S ii II S 4 5 li I I a .5111 2 i.:. 4 : I S I II I SI S • S • • I I Ill SiI if’ •‘‘ S S S S I • IS .,..:.. 5 II ; I ... I S S • . I S • bill . It 4 iq :‘ ill •. t , II • S I I 55 I I. C S !11h1 II t:. Si • IIiI 1 z ‘: I .:‘ ii •,tit 9&sf. ,5 . I•4; lSflIS5IIII IbStISeS IC bi Si t’ h bK.. & : ..:: 4 v S ill ‘. .ry 2 <‘ ! ::I:::.. • lb •.; ...L... • • I . :‘455,15:1;5 .•.•.• :: : 1151 • r I :!:.:r:b:::E. si .3..,1:;;.: i • : i . Ii •‘r;r:.:!. : 4 I ‘I SI’ I *:r.:..a.:r.:...:a :a:::. urflr • •qt.a.s*f : • Is :1i1:: r •$4..i.,:I: ; 55 . • g:bi IIISISIIII •i.ii •.IIIi S )IISIII :...:r.... I • !!:::.‘:..cc:. : Z•,g.s; ;. : ;.4’t’r: SIb • Dh../) . •s ‘: l I .).k 4 • S :..: •.n..:n.9 . 5 L .’. .. • 1 1 a.: 5. i.;::ah. r’ ; S III II ri lb I • a:. ‘ Ii : .. I b 1 . S I S t:” 59 it • )Ii lIf •...• a 1 , 55 • •SI.!..Sl • • ta: t !3P:i • a tI •. IS Yi j1!1 ’ 1 I % I :. 5 •S • I ‘. S I •i • a. • • II 5• 5 in •I. . f:c::’::t.’: i: S iSills S jci4rIf :1 ..Ibf:I”:b.;.:I:S! II; . ‘‘i’:: ,:1 I ..,....5l. •: 1:1 11115515 , Ii 0) co 1t 9i fl\ 7 2 4 42% many With the cross-stitch program you can sew embroi other and rams monog s, border ul beautif dery motifs. Border 1 S.. -z:LJLTz1 2 —3+ 37371 S - - ter by Enter the following programs in the compu + key: mem pressing the • 4x37 • 1 X 37i pattern mirroring end Sew the pattern along the traced line. At the to of the pattern, turn the material and sew back 1). the starting point, matching the patterns (Fig. Border 3 fl .‘— - —1-—-H— 37 37i 6 1 5> __ 56 - >5 S -3+ b-— 2 Ffrst workstep, centre motif by Enter the following programs in the computer key: + mem the g pressin • 1x37 • 1 x 37r pattern mirroring • Sew the pattern along the traced line. Second workstep, outside edges ter: Enter the following programs in the compu 37 4 x • • 2 x 37i pattern mirroring motif on • Sew the pattern alongside the centre 3). (Fig. left the right and .S 5) f --— S 2 .;--- - : -S. 5> >l -5 >> 56 .f / , 3 47 Border 1 prog ‘1 ‘, 1l - — Enter the following programs in the compute pressing the mem + key: • 1x37 • 3 x 37i pattern mirroring • Sew the pattern along the traced line. At (I end of the pattern, turn the material and back to the starting point, matching the terns (Fig. 1). — C Border 3 L7 -- cJ -3+ 11 2 Rrst workstep, centre motif Enter the following programs in the computer I pressing the mem+ key: • 2x37 • 2 x 37i pattern mirroring • Sew the pattern along the traced line. Second workstep, outside edges Enter the following programs in the computer O 1x37 • 1 x 37i pattern mirroring • Sew the pattern alongside the centre motif) the right and left at sewing-foot width (Fig. 3 2 48 3 Linen embroidery Plain embroidery on linen is a widely known and popular ornamentation. The patterns illustrated can be made on your Pfaff Creative in a very short time by combining various kinds of stitches. Transfer the pattern illustrated onto the face side of the fabric either by ironing it on (iron-on pat tern) or with the aid of tracing paper. Always place two sheets of tissue paper under the fabric during embroidering. - 04 lii 40 43 —3+ 2 Thread: embroidering/darning thread The motif in Fig. 1 is made up of the above-men tioned programs. First workstep, stems • Program 04 • Stitch length 2.5 mm • Follow the pre-traced lines with a program 04 seam. Second worketep, leaves • Program 40 • Stitch width 5.0 mm • Sew the leaf motifs slightly curved, starting at the stem. Third workstep, eyelets • Program ill pattern mirroring • For eyelet embroidery see page 50. Mark the position of the eyelet, then sew it in the middle of the flower (Fig. 1). Then sew the petals, program 43, 49 e S S S S S S S S S S S 5 • e s S S Eyelet embroidery with the eyeletting plate (special accessory) ——‘ prog 11 Key: Feed dog: Presser bar lifter: Sewing thread: r — 2—3 remov pattern mirroring lowered in darning position (page 9l embroidering and darning thread Fitting the eyeletting plate: insert the plate w ti the double catch engaging behind the midh tooth row, place it over the needle plate and sn it into position (see Fig. 1). Place the traced fabric tautly in an embroideri i. hoop. Cut one or two fibres in the fabric and Pu h the fabric over the pin. The fabric must be tiç,it against the pin all round. Draw the bobbin thre: d up and hold it for the first few stitches (pIaci q presser bar lifter in darning position beforehari, see page 98). Stitch around the cut with zigzg stitches, turning the hoop slowly clockwise at tt e same time. Finally, secure the stitches with a few straight stitches at the edge (Fig. 2). 50 ant to For this type of embroidery it is very import y. steadil and evenly hoop idery guide the embro nt Here are the instructions for sewing the differe motifs: Motif 1: 2 worksteps lii lstworkstep: program mirror pattern stitch width 2.0 mm 44 2nd workstep: program stitch width 6.0 mm • • • Motif 2: 2 worksteps 1St workstep: program Motif 3: 3 worksteps 1st workstep: program Motif 4: 2 worksteps 1st workstep: program q • 3’ 11, mirror pattern stitch width 2.0 mm 42 2nd workstep: program stitch width 6.0 mm lii mirror pattern stitch width 2.0 mm 10 2nd workstep: program stitch width 1.5 mm 11 3rd workstep: program stitch width 2.0 mm lii mirror pattern stitch width 2.0 mm 06 2nd workStep: program stitch width 6.0 mm •4 51 Fringe seams Butterfly Three worksteps are required for this: First workstep (wings) 1 c_L_L_ 2—3 Fnngefrn Stitch width: 1.5 mm Stitch length: 0.5 mm Fringe foot: (special accessory) First workstep (wings) First sew a fringe seam as a trial, using a pk of scrap material. During sewing, try differ ‘r stitch lengths until you find the one most s iS able. The wings are best sewn in circi I seams, working from the outside inwards. Second workstep (body) prog T JT Pattern length:as required Second workstep (body) Sew the body as shown in the illustrat ir (Fig. 1). Third workstep Finally sew the antennas with small zigzag s S ches, adding the dots at their tips by sewinc,, program 43 stitch pattern (Fig. 1), using • stitch width 4.0 mm • pattern length 5.0 Flower pro 2 10 43 44 Mark out the pattern Sew the petals, stem illustration. Now fill in fringe foot, working inwards (Fig. 2). —3+ 2 of the flower on the fabri:. and leaves as shown in tt the seed capsule using t S spirally from the outsic - -- 3 -ringe seam (cut open, Fig. 3) Machine setting same as for first workstep butterfly” (wings). ew fringe seam. ngage normal sewing foot. Then fold the fringes to the left or to the right and ew them on where the fringe loops come out of he fabric, selecting a narrowzigzag stitch of 1mm vidth and 1 mm length. Th prevent the fringes from shifting or catching on he foot, cover the edge of the loose fringes with 3tiff paper during sewing. \fterwards cut the fringe loops open with a scis— ,ors. 52A D 43 F . • 4% t. 4.. a ..i tL_: I. s,. a e 4t •1 4 4 . ‘6 ‘I.. .i. a. q. 2 1 Ornamental seams on leather Optional —3+ -- 0 - Thread: embroidering/darning thread Needle: 130/705 H-LR, size 80 Since leather is a pliable material, an underlay of al double-folded paper or light non-woven materi set not Do used. be always should ) (e. g. vylene the stitches too close, because leather splits d easily and splits in leather show on the finishe work. Flat leather seams P7 Optional i. -- L -3+ Needle: 130/705 H-LA. size 80 Overlap the raw edges by about 1/2 cm. Topt stitch both sides at a narrow margin using straigh le stitch. Instead of straight stitch it is also possib to to use zigzag stitch or some other program over-stitch the double seam. 53 Hemstitchng As the illustrations show, hem-stitching car used in different ways, both as an edge reinfc ment and as a fancy effect on table liner clothing articles, Hemstitching turned-In hem edges ‘-- 2 ro pg 38 — —3+ i 2 Stitch width: 2 mm Thread: embroidering/darning thread To hemstitch a turned-rn hem edge (Fig. 4), draw the number of fabric threads for the reir red hem stitch width. Place the hem break ii against the edge where the threads are dr: w and tack it in place. Now secure the hem using [. above-mentioned program. —-i-V 3 V — __ V_ Hemstitching with wing needle prog 3839 —3+ 2 Thread: embroidering/darning thread Needle: wing needle For this work, four threads are drawn, five thre. rl are left in, then a further four threads are dra-i Oversew the five threads left in the fabric urr. program 38 or 39 (Figs. 2 and 3). Hemstitching as an edge finish made with he wing needle prog — 38 4 54 — —.— -- —3+ 0 Thread: embroidering/darning thread Needle: wing needle This edge finish is used on very light and t.ii fabrics. It is particularly well suited for valanc flounces and frills or for finishing edges. For t:ri sewing job no threads must be drawn out oft fabric. Sew at sewing-foot width along the tab Ir edge, using the edge of the sewing foot as a gui Then carefully trim the excess material along tie hemstitching with a small scissors (Fig. 5). Inserting lace For this work, two worksteps are required First workstep prog I 00 -- ( --3+L0 J The lace insert is first secured to the face side of the material and is sewn on at a narrow margin with straight stitch. The material underneath the lace is cut open at the middle and ironed to the sides. Second workstep prog 3+ 10 0 Stitch width: as required Stitch length: as required Sew over the lace edge on both sides with small, dense zigzagstitches from the face side. Cut off the remaining material on the reverse side (Fig. 1). Attaching lace For this work, two worksteps are required First workstep T cr EZhL .4 Stitch width: 5.0 mm Stitch length: 1.5 mm Serge the raw edge with zigzag stitches (Fig. 2). Second workstep n ‘— 2 Stitch length: 3.0 mm Baste and sew the lace onto the face side of the material (Fig. 3). Secure the corners with stitches. 3 55 Cording Cording foot sory) prog + cording tongue (special a - I 1 00 5+ cordinç., Needle: Twin needle Cording seams are especially popular as a d ration on underwear. dresses, blouses, etc. / Cording sewn with the cording tongue Cording is always sewn with two needle thre Place a spool of thread on each spool pin secure it in position with the correspon unreeling disc. Place one thread to the right, the other to the left of disc C” (Fig. 3 a). Then c flue threading the machine, as usual. Do not t i the two threads. Thread each thread separa through thread guides and the needle eye (. 3b). The thread tension should be adapted to e fabnc type. The tighter the tension, the more minent the cording appears. Fig. 1 shows how 1 cording tongue is engaged. For thin materials, the cording foot with 7 g yes, the small cording tongue and a twin needl up to 2 mm are used. For thicker materials, the cording foot witl grooves, the large cording tongue and the resp tive twin needle are used, If you wish to sew several cordings beside e other, use the grooves of the cording foot (Fig.. For greater distances we recommend using edge guide. 2 e 4. 49’ 4 56 3 + 49. Cording sewn with gimp thread (J w prog - 5+ corthnq toot - - 00 — — Needle: Twin needle gimp thread Lift the needle plate off and pass the sert the re-in that r Afte “A”. through round hole groove (Fig. 1). needle plate. Notch “B” is the entry front of the Place the roll of gimp thread in 2). Fig. machine (see d together Place the beginning of the gimp threa back under ds threa m botto and leneed the with e work sup the cording foot. Move the detachabl thread of port up to the machine. Choose a gimp c. the same colour as the outer fabri Narrow pleats prog . -- _hz zLL___ Needle: 130/705-H. size 80 the required Iron the first fold line and stitch at fold groups in width. Prepare and stitch the further the same manner (Fig. 3). recommend For stitching down wider pleats we guide to the edge st the Adju e. using the edge guid that the fold required width. Guide the material so s 60 and 73.) runs along the edge guide. (See page 2 1° *.,, I’” “...‘.. 3 3a 57 ___________ _________ Shell edging prog 05 “ Stitch length: 1.5 mm Key: Pattern mirroring Shell edging provides nice trimming, espe on sheer, soft materials. Fold over the fabric once along the line which is to be decon During sewmg, the blindstitches draw in the ft edge at regular intervals, thus producing a edge effect. The stronger the needle thread sion, the more the fabric edge is indented (FR Adding a wool thread of a different colour not. reinforces the edge, but also makes an attra contrast trimming. Place the material under the needle so that it n trudes far enough to allow the wide zigzag b n stitch to pass over its edge (Fig, 1). h 2 58 -5 + i Appliqué work IF For this, two worksteps are required. Rrst workstep prog / l1 -- 2—3 10 2 Stitch width: 0.5 mm Stitch length: 1.0 mm Trace the design on the reverse side of the fabric, lay the appliqué on the face side and baste it on, making sure it matches the fabric grain. Sew along the outline of the design on the reverse side (Fig. 1>. Trim the excess material close to the contour seam (Fig. 2). ‘4 Second workstep prog -- I1 2-3i2 Stitch width: 1.5 mm Stitch length: 0.2 to 0.25 mm (for cording) Sew over the raw edges of the appliqué with nar row, dense zigzag (purl) stitches. To make the edge of the appliqué more promi nent, insert a filler cord in the seam (Figs. 3 and 4). Ready-made fabric appliqués can be applied much more easily. Before you cut out the design, iron on a fusible backing. This reinforces the mate rial, makes it easier to cut, and prevents fraying. Baste on the design. Place three layers of tissue paper under the fabric and sew along the edges of the design with dense, narrow zigzag stitches. In this way, a goodooking seam is produced. • For cording we recommend the appliqué foot (special accessory) 1 I 3 Qutng L 1 2 3 zi 2L • Edge guide Seams stitched on articles tilled with cotton or some other soft padding have a very promi effect, For this purpose, batting, foam plast flannel is placed between the top ply and a weight bottom ply (Fig. 3). To keep the fabric plies and the padding in p baste them together with rows of long bastinç ches spread over the whole area. Squares and diamonds can be sewn on 11 straight or on the bias of the material. On faL with regular patterns stitch between the patt or around them. The spacing between seams can be set as r p red by adjusting the guide accordingly. Trace the seam line for the first seam on the f& n or guide the quilting gauge along the straigh fabric edge. When you have completed the first seam rr r the work sideways so that the quilting gauge along the first seam or the traced seam line.’ each subsequent seam, guide the gauge fir j’ along the preceding line of stitching (Fig. 1). Quilting can also be done advantageously on terned materials. Preparation of the material is the same as des ni ed above. Just sew around the contours and have a very beautiful piece of embroidery (Fic? During the operation the needle position n not be changed. 4 4 1 II >1009 UOITDflJ1SUI 9 LVE ©zjj©tfi© 4JVJd 7) Programming the computer with embroidery stitches and monograms LwiEE prOg Capacity of the MEM-rnemory for programs 00 to 50 ELL j prog • The Creative computer has one MEMmerr • 12 programs (from 00 to 50) can be input ft MEM-memory one after the other to form a tern sequence. • When the machine is switched off the grams stored are cancelled. • When the capacity of the memory is usea two dashes appear on the display and no a tional programs are accepted (Fig. 1). • The programs can be cancelled in the M memory by means of the mem key (1C Before a new program sequence is entered MEM-memory must be empty. i;twj <)O 0 0 LJ i//I/I/t/t//L — How to select the MEMmemo • Select the MEM-memory with the left gramming key 139 (Fig. 2). • The MEM-memory is free if no program n her appears in display 104 (Fig. 2). • Select the desired program by pressing gramming” keys 139 and enter it in the M memory by pressing the mem + key (Fig. 3). • If the program stored is no longer needed, c cel it in the MEM-memory by pressing mem— key (105) (Fig. 2). ,E LiiiiJ prog ()o 0 0 0 L .t/////i//7/Ii. \____ 62 2 LL1I LLLJJJJ prog o ., 0 4 1 Checking the programs stored ZEZE If you want to check the program stored, • press “pattern start” key 123. • By repeatedly pressing key 125 the programs nput can be checked one after the other as they appear in the display (Fig. 1). Symbol E to the left of the program number stands for program start (Fig. 1). Symbol to the right of the program number stands for the end of a program sequence (Fig. 2). ij2 prog Correcting the programs stored / //i//////Z Wrong programs can be deleted by repeatedly pressing the me m key 105 (Fig. 2). — 2 Single patterns Various stitch patterns, such as monograms, numbers, program combinations, and embroi dery motifs, are very attractive when sewn as single patterns (Fig. 4). The machine sews the stitch pattern program med, ties off the seam and stops automatically. 3 63 _ ____________________________________— Lengthening patterns at the same stitch density The pattern length in the decorative-stitci grams 40 to 48 and 50 can be varied, whi stitch density remains the same. The patter be varied in length from 2.0 to 90mm. When tern is sewn with short stitches, its max length is limited (Fig. 1). Indicated below are the maximum and mm pattern lengths for various stitch lengths. 2 Stitch length in mm Pattern length in mrr to from 0.2 0.25 03 0.35 0.4 and over 4.0 4.0 40 4.0 4.0 50 60 70 80 90 Before entering a program, you can vary thr tern length by pressing key 124. prog )o ‘j, 0 0 Examp’e: • Select program 44 • Set pattern length 25 (with key 124) • Press key mem+ (106). The pattern is now stored with the modified (Fig. 3). 0 Pattern mirroring \_,,______ 3 [---ii1 /V/7 (,/ (/ I iiJJ p og 0 0 h 9 t 5 c ////1/11/I/li. 64 4 If you want to sew a pattern mirrorinve (Fig. 2), select the respective program, and p o “pattern mirroring’ key 122 and • the rnem+ key 106. The pattern mirroring function is indicated b’, vertical dash symbol appearing after the prog number in the display (Fig. 4). __________________ _________________ _________ __ ___________ _ ___________ Changing the stitch length ] rn prog All programs and program combinations can be varied in length and width, as desired, and entered in the computer memory. Before entering the last decorativetitch pattern program, determine the stitch length, using key 125 (Fig. 1). This altered stitch length determines the length of stitch of the programs entered previously. ,, :)o //////////// 1 EEl ELJEE71 prog o ,-.. 4) 1’l Example: • Select program 44 • Press mem + key (106) • Select program 46 • Press mem+ key • Select program 44 • Press mem+ key • Select program 42 • Change the stitch length to 0.5 • Press mem+ key Now the entire program sequence together with the altered stitch length is stored in the computer memory (Fig. 1) Changing the stitch width o o 62 - Before entering a program you can change the stitch width by pressing key 140. Example • Select program 44 • Stitch width 4.5 • Press mem+ key The pattern together with the altered stitch width is now stored in the computer memory (Fig. 2). 2 65 ________ 1’ prog o o 4?42 _i.> it//I’ Programming ‘etters and numbers prog 0 With your PFAFF Creative you can stitch the bers from 0 to 9 and the letters of the aiph: They can be used to decorate or mark linen g or outerwear. You can even compose texts write them on the fabric. 0 /)/) Capacity of MEM-memory for ‘etters and numbers. You can input a sequence of 36 letters and bers to the MEM-memory. JI/IIit///i//_ prog - 2 2 prog ()0 0 0 0 ii/t/ti// 66 Thread: embroidery thread Examp’e: K L A U S • Select —A with the bottom-left (minus) gram key 139 (Fig. 1). • Select the letters _K L _A .U S with the top-right (plus) program key 139. • input them in the memory by pressing mem+ key 106 each time (Fig. 2). • Sew the stored program (Fig. 4). Sewing numbers .0 3 • Select program .0 (Fig. 3). The numbers are programmed in the sri way as the letters. Also see page 67 “Sev dots”. ___________________________________ miELwj42 prog 0 0 0 fL 4 Sewing dots -.__ Dots can be used in many different ways For instance after abbreviations or between two num bers, etc. prog ()o EZiZZtTZTL 0 0 .0 - li 2 -3 + - Example: 1.5 m • Select .0 with the bottom-left (minus) progra key 139 (Fig. 1) • Select .1 with the top-right (plus) program key 139 (Fig. 2) • Press the mem+ key 106: the display shows El (Fig. 2) ) • Select point with the bottom-right (minus (Fig. 3) 139 key m progra appears in a Press the me m + key: the point the display (Fig. 3) key • Select .5 with the top-right (plus) program 139 dis • Press the mem + key: 5 appears in the play Sew the stored program (Fig. 4). . - 2 [IiiicE prog co 0 494 7c 0 0 /)/) 67 Spacing between two words (i’l prog PFAFE_XARLSRLIHE. —3+ 2 Example:PFAFF... KARLSRUH Between two words it is always necessary to gram a space. Depending on how much spa required, three or four space symbols are t input (Fig. 1). • Press the bottom-right (minus) program 139 until the symbol appears in the dis 1 (Fig. 3) • Press me m + key 106: the space symbol shown in dsplay 104 (Fig. 3) • Input three or four space symbols to the c puter with mem + key 106 • Then input the next word (Fig. 1) —_ — PFAFF-CREA Tt ye — 2 Sewing hyphens/dashes prog Lur_r prog 0 —* 0 — 29 0 0 4: //////////I// 68 (CJ — -3+ 2 Example:PFAFF-CREATIVE • Press bottom-right (minus) program key 1 until the hyphen appears on the display in I required position (Fig. 4) • Press mem + key 106 (Fig. 4) • The hyphen appears on the display • Program the rest of the text. 0 /;)/ prog -- 4 69 / LHi prog iiiijjj ()o 10 42 Writing texts Correcting program entries Start out by marking the beginning of the text on the fabric. After sewing, cut the threads between letters and numbers and in the spacings (Fig. 1). If you want to check the correctness of your text, press key 125+. The individual letters will then appear in the display (see page 63). If you have left out a letter or figure or entere I wrong one, you can correct the entry. Cancel individual entries backup to the mistake and rect it using key 105 (mem—). Then enter rest of the text again (see page 63). Letters and numbers in different sizes Programming names together with embroidery stitches prog Lzt ----------- Example: A 8 A Letters and numbers can be sewn in different sizes. The maximum character height is 6 mm. Before the last entry of a letter or number, its height can be determined by means of key 140 (Figs. 2 and 2 a). • Reduce the last letter A with • key 140 to 4mm (Fig. 2) • Press mem+ key 106 (Fig. 2) • The height of the entire word has now been changed in the computer. z__. L.$6 4l JL - • Select the following programs: 1 x 36 1 x 41 1 x 36 3 x 00 E.V A 3 x 00 1 x 36 1 x41 1 x 36 and enter them in the computer memory pressing key 106 (mem+) each time. • Sew the program stored (Fig. 3). . v Balancing out letters and numbers Letters or words shift occasionally, dependin the fabric used. This can be corrected with “balancing” key (Fig. 1). The letter or number last input is correc towards plus or minus with key 124, and the rection entered by pressing the me m + key I The correction takes effect for the entire progr stored. .iLIAEEi\1 prog N ((3 —3+ 2 Example: SURFEN (surfing) • Select program N (last letter). • Select +3 with balancing” key 124 (Fig. 2) • Press mem+ key 106. The entire program has now been correct with +3 (Fig. la). la 9 rm.EUEJ prog 0 Lg 0 0 - //////t////// 72 2 Sewing with straight, utility and stretch stitches Tips for embroidering and sewing with the PFAFF creative 1467 • Before you begin, first sew a test seam on a scrap piece of the same material. • Check stitch pattern and tension. • Secure the beginning and end of the seam by pressing the “tie-off/button-hole” key. • When sewing light, soft and stretch materials hold the thread ends at the beginning of sewing (Fig. 1). • With cross seams, such as lap-felled seams, we recommend cutting out the fold and pressing the seam. This will provide a flatter cross seam. • In the case of problem materials, you can achieve better sewing results with the left needle position. • Exact stitching of edges is facilitated by the marking guide lines on the needle plate or by an edge guide (Fig. 2). • If you have to interrupt work during sewing, e.g. with long fabric panels or upon change of sewing direction, select needle position “down”. • Thread the needle with the needle threader. 2 J 3 Top-stitching collar points • Insert a thread into each collar point before beginning to sew and leave approximately 10cm of thread hanging. When stitching the corner, you pull on the threads of the respec five corner for the first stitches in sewing direc tion. The material feed is supported in this way and you obtain a beautifully stitched corner (Fig. 3). • For top-stitching edges, especially in the case of soft materials, a round-hole needle plate and a straight-stitch sewing foot with round needle hole can produce good sewing results (special accessories). • Sewing aid for thick seams In orderto ensure uniform feeding at the begin ning of the seam, we recommend supporting the sewing foot with a piece of material of the same thickness (Fig, 4). 4 73 II lb rim Dua’ feed Pfaff offer the only household sewing machine the world with built in dual feed. Bythis means, material is not only fed from below, but also fr above simultaneously. During processing of 10 fabric panels, such as curtains and side curtah etc., there is no shifting of the material plies. Also during assembly of checked or striped fab panels the material is fed exactly by the dual fe Especially during processing of delicatee ma rials, no seam pucker results. In the case of p stics, oilcloth, imitation suede, etc. (i.e. in the ca of extremely difficult materials), dual feed is equally great help. It provides for excellent fee ing of your workpiece, and consistent seams. T dual feed can be combined with several sewh feet. raise sewing foot, push top fe€ To engage: downward until it engages. To disengage: lift sewing foot, press top fe lightly downward, pull it to there. and allow it to move up. 74 - I Sewing tips for different materia’s Woollen fabrics: well balanced stitch length and tension. Batiste: light needle thread tension and medium stitch length. Velvet or silk velour: baste the seam line twice and sew in grain direction with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 mm. Be careful when pressing velvet! Try out on a piece of waste fabric and do not press on the iron. Twill/jeans: use special needles for jeans fabrics. When sewing over thick intersections t is advis able to cut away seam allowances. Synthetic materials: do not baste such materials as plastic, foil or oilcloth (penetration holes!). Use long stitch lengths (4 to 6 mm) and the dual feed. Pure silk: set needle thread tension a little lower. Needle must be in perfect condition (otherwise fibres are pulled). Use stitch lengths between 2 and 2.5 mm. Knitted or crocheted materials: sew with light needle thread tension and elastic seams. Machine-embroidery silk: to obtain effective motif embroideries set the needle thread tension lighter, i. e. lower than the buttonhole range. 75 Making taor’s tacks Fringe foot, special accessory 10 Z —a....— — + .L. Fnge I:, Stitch-width: 2 mm Needle: 80 Sewing thread: Machine embroidery thread Bashng is a useful method of transferring sr lines onto cuttings. First mark all contours with tailoring chalk on top material ply. Sew along the marked lines with the fringe fi When all lines have been basted, pull the fabric plies apart to find the joining threads: cut these through carefully, to avoid damag the material (Fig. 1). Basting prog 01 L -3+ — 0 Feed dog: lowered Sewing thread: normal sewing thread For trying on a garment, we recommend secur the parts previously with basting stitches. Pl the workpiece under the sewing foot. Sew c stitch. After that, pull the material by the requir stitch length to the rear. Repeat this procech until basting is completed. In order to avoid s ting of the material plies during securing of pati ned materials, insert dress pins crosswise to I basting direction. Shifting of the material plies thus largely avoided (Fig. 2). 2 Basting at 6 mm stitch length çq prog 00 . ± Stitch length: 6 mm For this application do not lower the feed dog. S the stitch length at 6 mm. Remove the bastii thread after sewing. 76 V .4 ____ _ LLL Wiii 1. prOg prog 1 o o ///////////II Change of needle position with straight stitch Through adjustment of the needle (needle tion), certain sewing work can be carried easier. For example, if you wish to stitch at a row margin such as on collars or when inser zippers, you select the required needle posit • For changing the needle position, the nec must always be in its highest position, Right or left needle positions • Select program 00 appear • Press zigzag key 140; symbol display 104 (Fig. 1) • By pressing the key zigzag + the needle p tion can be changed to the right for six di rent positions • Pressing the key zigzag changes the nec position to the left for six different positio • Needle position right’ is shown by symbol behind the number in the disr (Fig. 2). Needle position “left” is indicated sYmbol E in front of the number in the — right left EZD 78 ZD EED ________________________________ ______ ______ ______ ___________ ________ Change of needle position with zigzag stitch __Z i i 1 r i “ prog o a “ a ? i I///t//i///Jt -_.-—“ 3 L prog S The needle must always be in the highest posi ton. Right needle position (Fig. 3) e. g. 11 Program: as required Stitch-width: as required stitch-length: Left needle position 11 Program: as required Stitch-width: as required Stitch-length: pattern mirroring Key: With the above settings the zigzag-stitch program stored can be sewn with the needle positioned at the right or left of its throw. If the zigzag stitch is to begin at the left of the needle throw, the “pattern mirroring” key must be pressed in addition. Pat tern mirroring is indicated by symbol appearing behind the number in the display. • The zigzag stitch length can be changed with stitch length key 125 (Fig. 4). T 7/tt//IZ///Ii left right cD cD 79 ____ Straight stitch V Sew normal materials with straight stitch. Se stitch length longer or shorter according sewing work. Raise the sewing foot higher fort cult materials or several material plies, It is h easier to place the work under the sewing foot not forget to lower the presser bar lifter, in ot to ensure perfect sewing results. Certain work can be carried out easier wi change of needle position (see pages 78 and V Stretch triple straight stitch prog 1 -- 02 -- ‘3-5 0 You need elastic straight stitch seams for stretchable materials and seams subjected great stress, e. g. inside seams on trousers, wear and swimwear (Fig. 1). Zigzag stitch — iU — 1.0 mm Stitch width: 1.5 mm Stitch length: A stretchable seam can also be attained with narrow zigzag stitch. It is applied especially forj sey materials (Fig. 2). 2 80 IS Ca., A ‘a’ j •— I,’-. i’, a a 4 - S 0. ‘t —S -4 .4 a 6. 0’ a F S F 4. a— S . 4 y. I , •, , • 4, APt p so ‘p (4 4 . 4 ,_ a’ •‘, a a p — 4’ 0 5 a t K . S • S I p S a a ‘ et •, I, I • S S - C 4 4 5 ‘S 1 5 5, 4 5, p. C, ‘,P’e 454’ • • 4’ 4’ 4 *4 ‘a 4 a 4% S 4 4 4 SI’ -. S 4 IS.’ 0 4. • 6 — ,,_ /54J S C K — I 1’ a. 4. 51 S V. p p 5. 5, S 5 ,. .7 p. S •6 •5 IS p S V. ap • ••, 5,1 4’ •‘ 4. ( 0 ‘‘50’ .4 5’ 4 .4 — i1 4 S .5 S S 44fp * A, S , 5 • _ 4? 4.’ 1. ‘‘d • S ‘I 0• vAleS 1 4. -a •S a 5 •• ‘ — 4 14 PC —_ • V S 4 1’ S 5 4 a 4 0 S S •e a — e .. a • • b • • aa,a A IS • • • t K - S St I • 4’ 4 • IS, • a S r S •* ç’9çi” -; çr t ,. t “, •1 . ::.;, I ‘K : •‘ ‘t... :‘ •t • P. P 0 Sj 0 5, 4 SI a F • ••44’. WI .54 • fJ 7 pC,d 44 gk I • a 4, I 57. . • S 1 2 Top-stitch seams Buttonhole thread as needle thread ro pg ‘- L Needle: 100/120 Needle thread: buttonhole thread Bobbin thread: sewing thread Stitch length: longest stitch Top-stitch seams produce nice ornament effects. For this, selection of a suitable thread important. To obtain particularly promine seams, we recommend using buttonhole threa Buttonhole thread as bobbin thread ftiL’H Buttonhole thread can also be wound on the boi bin and used as bobbin thread. In this cas’ sewing thread should be used in the needle. Fe this sewing job the needle thread tension must b. set relatively high. For topstitching the fabric placed in the machine with the reverse side ut Select the longest stitch. • For topstitching, a No.80 needle may be user • For difficult top-stitch seams we recommen using the straight-stitch foot (special acce: sory). • Before you fit the straight-stitch foot, set th needle at its central position. 82 -Ii 4 Twin -needle top-stitch seams Top-stitch seams sewn with two needle threads I prog - ° oo 3-5 1. L 0 -- 6.0 mm Stitch length: 80 Needle: sewing thread Thread: If you cannot find a suitable buttonhole thread, try to use two needle threads together. Place one thread to the right, and the other to the left of disc C’, but thread both together through the needle eye. See page 56 (Fig. 3) Triple-fancy-stitch seams prog 03 - twin needle; needle gauge, as desired The twin needle can be used not only for embroi dery work, but also for top-stitching operations. It produces a particularly attractive effect along hem edges and on facings. Fold the bottom edge, the facing or border edge over to the reverse side and baste it down. Sew on the face side of the fabric with the twin needle. Trim excess material on the reverse side. (For threading instructions see page 56). Needle: :::z :i 0 6.0 mm Stitch length: 80 Needle: sewing thread Thread: • This stitch can he used without any difficulty for sewing a top-stitch seam along lapel and pocket edges or sewing an ornamental seam (Figs. 1 + 2). For this, normal sewing thread is used. ol 0%.. ___ Lap-seam feWng Imitation lap seam sewn with the ordinary sewing f prog 00 T-35 - 0 Place the two pieces of fabric one on top of the ot with their face sides, and sew them together about centimetre from the edge. Neaten the raw edge. Fold. seam allowance over to one side and press. Then i, stitch on the face side of the fabric, using the edge of sewing foot as a guide (Fig. 1). Double lap seam sewn with the felling foot — - 00 ZE-- I ( Jnte 35 If two lines of stitching are to appear on the face side the lap-seamed fabric, the two pieces of fabric must placed together with their reverse sides facing (Fig. If only one line of stitching is to appear on the face si of the lap-seamed fabric the two pieces of fabric must placed together with their face sides facing (Fig, 4b First workstep Place the two pieces of fabric one on top of the ot[ with the bottom ply protruding by the width of the cutc in the felling foot. Make sure the protruding edge enti the felling foot so that it is folded and stitched do (Fig. 2). Second workstep Open the two pieces and insert the seam ridge in the f ling loot. The ridge is folded down in the foot and si ched down along the edge. Pull both fabric plies ap lightly during sewing (Fig, 3). • Two felling feet are available as special accessori for stitching margins of 4.5 and 6.5 mm. 2 b 84 3 2 1 Shirring with straight stitch prog 4 mm Stitch length: In order to obtain consistent gather with straight stitch it is imperative to insert 2 to 4 shirring threads. First mark the starting line for the shirring on the face side of the fabric. Sew the first seam straight and carefully. During sewing, pull the fabric taut a little with your hands, because with long stitches the seam will pucker easily (Fig. 1). After sewing, leave about 15 cm of thread hang ing. The next two or three seams can be sewn at about sewing-foot width. Finally take hold of all underthreads and pull them. By this means you determine the amount of gather yourself. Please do not use fine threads, in order to ensure they do not break during gather ing. Afterwards, do not forget to tie off the threads at the beginning and end of the seams (Fig. 2). 85 Shirring with e’astic thread prog a.. 1618 aa 35 20r * Cording foot (special accessory) First mark the starting line for the shirred se on the underside of the fabric. Insert the need the seam beginning point and place an ela thread around the needle. Insert the elu thread in the groove of the sewing foot in Lower the sewing foot and sew a numbei seams at about foot width. Ensure that the ela thread is not pierced during sewing and do stretch it. Finally, pull the threads with your h and determine the amount of gather yours Knot the threads on the inside (see Fig. 1). Instead of elastic thread it is also possible to• heavy cotton thread (see Fig. 2). Pull the fabric to the required width and stitch threads down. This provides you with a fixed St ed edge. • This work can be carried out with dual feed sewing foot No. 0. 2 ,: Shirring with shirring foot (special accessory) I 00 — 3 Shirong font 3—4 mm Stitch length: How to engage the shrring foot Insert the shirring foot with its rear pin in groove A” and push the shoe upwards so that front pin ‘6” snaps in (Fig. 2). How to gather Both outer fabric and the material to be shirred are sewn together with the shirring foot in one workstep. Ensure that the gathered material always goes under the foot and the smooth outer fabric in the foot cutout (Fig. 1). Lightly stretch the outer fabric during sewing; by this means you determine the degree of gathering. How to disengage the foot: Raise the presser bar lifter. Disengage the sewing foot by pushing its front part down. Press up and hold the presser bar lifter and remove the sewing foot to the rear. 4 87 ___________ Smocking with elastic thread F III - 88 oo Stitch length: 3 to 4 mm Bobbin thread: elastic thread, (wind tensionfree on bobbin) Needle thread: sewing thread For sewing with elastic threads we recomm buying an additional bobbin case. Because elastic threads are much thicker thar ordinary bobbin thread, the tension on the bo case has to be set Iooser The greater the bob thread tension the greater the shirring effect The most suitable fabrics are nylon, satin, bab and fine-knit fabrics. The amount of gathering be determined by testing on a piece of wa fabric. Sew the seams at about foot width (Fig Tie off the seams on the reverse fabric side at beginning and end of the seams. If there are several parallel seams, the mater must be stretched to its original width dur sewing, otherwise the shirring will turn out irre lar. Do not forget to carry out a sewing test. Overcasting with zigzag stitch ro -‘--. -____ —---— ——-- — 0 Stitch-width: as required Sewing thread: Embroidery/darning thread or sewing thread for serging of The stored zigzag-stitch is suitable material, the wider the heavier The materials. light the stitch width must be selected for the zigzag stitch. Ensure that the needle passes over the fabric edge during sewing. In this way the material edge is properly serged and well covered (Fig. 1). For heavy or easily fraying materials, use: • Program: 16 or 09 (Fig. 3). j Overcasting with overlock foot For materials which contract during serging use the overlock toot. g 11 2 3 rz 3—5 Lr 3 as required Stitchwidth: edge with the required zigzag raw the Serge stitch. The material enters at the red marking on the sewing foot (Fig. 2). • Preparalion of the sewing foot (overlock foot No. 3) Turn screw ‘A” fully to the front. The red mark “B” is then on the right sewing foot side, Allow the edge of the material to be sewn to enter close against the red mark. During sewing, the thread is placed over the wire “C”. By this means you will receive a beautiful smooth seam (Fig. 2). For change of needle position for zigzag stitch see page 79. 89 ________ Stretch triple zigzag stitch Lycra stitch ... , rog c 1620 3-5 -- I 130/705 H 80 or 130/705 H SKF 80 as required Stitch width: With the above-mentioned programs it is poss. to repair elastic tapes, or join them, on underw swim wear and high-stretch materials such Lycra and difficult synthetic fabrics. Select the appropriate stitch width for the ap cation. Forthis work it is recommended to use sewing threads (Figs. 1 + 2). Needle: \_‘ • . . z’ .-. Faggotting stitch for corsetry prog -‘ - —•---• ((3 -- — t_.. ___. , [j ______. 130/705 H 80 or 130/705 H SKF 80 With faggotting stitch it is possible to sew a hig elastic seam with hem-stitching effect, Tack o the edges to be sewn and place them under sewing foot with a clearance of 3 mm (Fig. Over-stitch using program 21. The needle mi penetrate the material to the right and to the I (Fig. 4). Needle: 2 90 3 Sewing and overcasting in one operation Seams which are not ironed open can be sewn together and serged in one workstep. The Pfaff Creative 1467 offers a selection of diffe rent elastic assembly and serging seams from which you can easily select the corresponding seam for all stretchable materials. Closed overlock stitch or overcasting stitch — prog 09 17 07 — -—-— — -- 3—5 0/3 Jersey Material: Especially jersey materials can be sewn together and serged in one workstep with the recommend ed stitches (Fig. 1). Sleeve cuffs or knit collars can be sewn on with the above-mentioned programs in a wear-resist ant manner just the same. / //I /1 Sewing neck openings: Measure the required width and close the stand at the correct curvature and press open the seam, fold over in lengthwise direction and pin onto neck cutout from face side, The raw edges of the knit facing are placed on the raw edge of the cutout. In one workstep, knit facing and cutout edge are sewn together (Fig, 3). In order to avoid waviness in the case of loosely woven materials, insert an elastic thread. By this means, the seam keeps its original shape (Fig. 2). 2 3 91 Closed overlock stitch prog -- ( 17 / Knit-edge foot (special accessory) Needle: 70 or 80 Fashion-knitted parts can easily be joined with closed overlock stitch. In order to obtain a perfect seam on fashion knitted parts, we recommend to insert a w thread and hold it with a slight tension while I over-stitched (Fig. 1). * J - I Overlock stitch with edge-thread effect 09 - -- 3—5 3 Stitch length: 3.0 mm Position the raw edges under the sewing foot shown in Fig. 2. Make sure the needle in its rig position stitches just beyond the fabric edge. this way, the edge thread is placed over the r edge and serves as an edge protection. For sc ting overlock foot No. 3 see page 89. 2 .iWv 92 Honeycomb stitch prog -- 19 Overlap the fabric edges by 1.5 cm, then neaten each raw edge with: Program 19 • Stitch-width 6.0 mm • Stitch length 2.0 mm (Fig. 1) E’astic stitch L__ -- 16 3—5 0 Overlap the material edges by 1.5 cm and overstitch each edge with: • Program 16 and • stitch length 0.5 mm (Fig. 2). ,•K K Elastic stitch (for underwear) rr1 E pg_ Li-J 0 L_16 • . Cut off the stretched elastic tape close to the edge. Gather the fabric to the waist size using straight stitch. Push the part prepared in this way between the elastic tape and pin it firmly. Stitch it on using elastic stitches. Finally over-stitch the closed tape with elastic stitches (Fig. 3). . Elastic straps . 2 (outerwear) T:TU L 16 1 On skirts or trousers sew the strap onto the pre pared edge with elastic stitches. 3 93 Honeycomb stitch prog — 19 I / 3 ‘ Honeycomb stitch is especially suitable a means of securing hems on stretchable un materials. Fold the hem double up to the h and overcast with honeycomb stitch (Fig edge Securing hems with the twin neede (Tshirt seam) - prog F Needle: twin needle, 4 mm distance For a 2cm hem, turn over and baste about 2.5 of material. Stitch on the face side at about 2 c width. Cut off the protruding material edge on ft inside along the seam (Fig. 2). For threading instructions see page 56. 94 ____ _________ Narrow hem with the hemmer foot prog cE -- 3-5 Hemmer foot (special accessory) Hemming secures the fabric edge against fraying and produces a neat and durable edge. The hem width is about 4 mm. Begin by folding the fabric edge over twice and placing the folded edge under the hemmer foot. Lower the foot and secure the hem in position with a few stitches. Fig. 1 shows how the fabric is drawn into the hem mer foot scroll with the aid of the stitched-down threads. Fig. 2 shows how the fabric edge is fed into the hemmer foot scroll. Hold the fabric tight as you guide it during sewing. Make sure the fabric con tacts the edge of the right half of the hemmer foot as it enters the scroll. * RoVed hem with the rolled hem foot 10 Roll hemmer (special accessory) the roll hemmer foot for hemming nylon, tncot and chiffon. Begin by stretching the fabric to see which way the edge curls. This is the side to which the hem must be rolled. Draw the fabric into the hemmer scroll with the aid of sewn-on threads. Set the stitch width just wide enough that the needle stitches close to the drawn-in hem edge (Fig. 3). In this way, an attractive shell edge effect is obtained, * 2 3 Binding edges with non-woven tape prog 00 -- -- (J 3—5 0 Fold ready-made bias binding lengthwise shape-press. Push the folded binding over fabric edge and baste it in place, if required. TI sew it on with straight stitches (Fig. 1). Edge-binding with the binder Sewing foot: Program: Stitch length: Binder (special accessory) 00 (Fig. a) 2.5 mm, or Program: 10 Stitch-width: 2.5 mm Stitch length: 1,5 mm, (Fig. b) Remove sewing toot and screw on binder. Ins the bias tape in the scroll of the binder and pu out to the rear. Set the binder in such a way ft. the needle enters 1 to 1.5 mm from the turned bias edge. Sew a number of stitches along t bias tape. Place the raw edge in the groove of t binder. During sewing, the bias tape is wrapp automatically over the material edges. Sew if. bias tape on with the above mentioned progra or a program of your own selection. Straight mat rial edges are the simplest to bind (Fig. 2). 2 96 BHnd stitch -3+ 05 3 Fold the previously overcast raw edge over to form a hem of the desired width and baste about 0.5 cm from the fabric edge. Place the fabric under the blindstitch foot and sew, making sure the folded fabric edge runs along edge guide B” of the blindstitch foot (Fig, 1 + 2a). Before you start blindstitching, adjust the needle penetration point on the folded fabric edge. To do this, adjust the position of edge guide 8” by turning regulating screw “A” so that the needle catches only one thread in the folded edge when it makes its left stitch. Sew a trial seam on a piece of scrap material first. • Then proceed as described above (Fig. 2). Blind stitch (for elastic materials) prog - -- ---- 06 —3+ 3 Program 06 is suitable for stretch fabrics. First fold the hem to the desired width and baste. Adjust the needle position as described above. Now you can sew the hem (Fig. 2b). • Follow the instructions given above. 2 Th H 2a 2b 97 _____ Darning with straight stitch —n prog (J -- 00 L__ 6 2—3 — L — lowered in darning position embroidery and darning thread Darning position (Fig. 1): Lower presser bar lifter “A”. at the same t pushing it back slightly until it enters notch “B the bottom of its slot. Attaching the darning foot (Fig. 2): Raise the needle. Push lever “E” towards the b and hold it there. Insert the pin of the foot in h “C” and insert the foot so that it rests against stop. When you do so, guide fork “G” fits aroh the presser bar. Release clamp “E”, which ft moves down onto retaining screw “F”. Tigh; screw “D”. Draw up the bobbin thread. Hold both three until the machine has made a few stitches. F sew a few stitches in the unworn area of the fah Then stitch over the damaged spot from one s to the other in serpentine fashion, placing I lines of stitching close together (Fig. 3). When I damaged spot has been covered completely, U the work through 90° and darn at right angles the preceding row of stitches (see Fig. 4). You determine the length of the darning stitch by the rate at which you move the fabric back af forth. Feed dog: Presser bar lifter: Sewing thread: 2 -, L 98 3 Darning with wool ro — 10 16 — 2—3 6 lowered in darning position (see page 98) embroidery and darning Sewing thread: thread, wool Draw the wool thread through the needle hole of the darning foot and into the thread guide (Fig. 1). Place the wool thread under the darning foot. Start at the top left and place the wool thread back and forth across the damaged area with pro gram 10 (Fig. 2). Then cut the yarn and sew over the rows of wool thread with zigzag stitches or an elastic-stitch seam (Fig. 3). Do not place the lines of stitching too close to gether as this would make the darn too hard. All darning work described above is carried out on the reverse side of the fabric, so that the darn looks neater on the face side. Feed dog: Presser bar litter: 4’ .5 2 3 99 Darning with elastic stitch prog 16 -- -- cc] 3—5 I () Sew as many elastic-stitch seams over the dw ged spot as may be required to cover it corny tely. Overlap the seams slightly (Fig. 1). Inserting patches _ 0,5 mm Stitch length: down Needle position: The new piece of fabric is pinned on the face sr and the fabric edge over-sewn with the select stitch. To make the patch more durable you can sew second seam at sewing-foot width from the fi Afterwards cut away the damaged material on II inside (Fig. 2). Darn ing torn fabrics prog 2 100 3 For mending tears, frayed edges and small hole place a piece of material under the torn fabr which is larger than the damaged area. Stitch ov the area at the width of the tear. The materi underneath reinforces the damaged material ar ensures reliable darning. Trim any protrudir material on the underside close to the edç (Fig. 3). a t a ‘V . as ‘4, a.. 0’ ts... 1 ; .4. ‘ .a% * ‘.. %‘ r ., 4. , smA S A a a. . ‘tk 1j n V .1 I •Iis a Sa -be tb N 4 a b c lingerie buttonholes prog_____ -- : Sewing thread: Embroidery and darning thread Generally buttonholes are sewn onto double material. In spite of this, a piece of paper should be placed underneath during sewing. First mark the spacings and the distance from the edge. The points thus obtained always mark the beginning of sewing. Pull the runner of the buttonhole foot fully to the front before beginning the buttonhole. Sew the first lengthwise seam at the required length (Fig. 1 a). Press key 1 16 “tie-off/button hole. After that the Pfaff Creative sews the first bar and the reverse seam (Fig. 1 b). Shortly before the end of the reverse seam the machine automa tically slows down, thus calling attention to the final bartack that is to be sewn now. Press key 116 (Fig. 1) again one zigzag stitch before the reverse seam has the same length as the first buttonhole seam, then sew the second bartack. The machine automatically secures the buttonhole at the end and then stops (Fig. ic). The buttonhole is now stored. Without actuating further keys, the follow ing buttonholes can now be sewn automatically. If you wish to determine the 2nd bar for a pro grammed buttonhole, press key 116. The display will then show a full stop at the left of program 13. Shortly before the end of the reverse, seam the machine automatically slows down. As soon as both seams have the same length, press key 116 again. The machine now sews the 2nd bar and secures the buttonhole. I fl’. For sewing the following buttonholes it will f good to lift the fabric a little in order not to affet feeding of the fabric, The sewing speed mu: remain constant. • f a buttonhde was not programmed correcti it can be cancefled by selecting another prc gram. Select program 13 again and repe programming of the buttonhole. + 4 Balancing the density of buttonhole seams With key 124 the left buttonhole seam can be adapted to the right one. First make a sample but tonhole • Sew the first buttonhole seam in the length required and • the first bartack. • Set balance key 124 toward + or and adjust the second buttonhole seam to the first one (Fig. 3). • Sew last bartack. • This change will be maintained for the follow ing buttonholes. — Adaption of buttonhole length A garment may consist of different numbers of fabric plies, e. g. the buttonhole strip may consist of three plies and the collar stand of six owing to the folded seam edge. In this case it is necessary to program the computer for varying numbers of fabric plies in order to maintain the same button hole length as on the 3-ply buttonhole strip. — Changing the buttonhole width For every fabric type, the corresponding button hole width can be determined up to 5.5 mm. For heavy materials select a wide buttonhole and a narrow one for light materials. With the stitch width key (140), you determine the required but tonhole width. The length of the cut is changed automatically (Fig. 4). A buttonhole width of 4.5 mm is stored. After sewing, cut the buttonholes open (seE page 106). I r’V I ‘J z B Changing the buttonhole stitch length With the stitch length key (125), the buttonholf seams can be set more densely or loosely. Buttonholes with gimp thread In the case of elastic materials, it is possible thai the button holes extend. Therefore, the button hole strip should be strengthened with interlininç. material. In order to retain the shape of the button hole, use gimp thread if possible. Place the gimp thread over the back ridge ‘A”, pull taut and jam it into front ridge “B” to the left and right (Fig. 1) (Pull runner fully forwards). The buttonhole sequence is the same as withou gimp thread, see page 102, After completing thE buttonhole pull on both thread ends of the gim[ thread (Fig. 2), until the loop is covered up by the bar. This is where the button is located later. Pull the gimp threads through to the underside with a needle, secure them and trim them. We recommend to determine the second scanE bar yourself for this type of buttonhole (see page 102). Single buttonhole After sewing, cut the buttonholes open (see page 106). 104 As you know, it is difficult to sew buttonholes in collar stands, waistband strips etc. In such cases, the buttonhole length should be drawn in pre viously and the first seam, bartack and second seam controlled by hand. Sewing foot No. 2 can also be used for this work. (Sewing procedure as described on page 102). Eyelet buttonholes 14 - Sewing thread: Embroidery and darning thread Key: press “sew slow” Eyelet buttonholes are often sewn in outerwear, such as jackets, coats or leisure wear. They should always be sewn with backing material underneath. However, a piece of paper should also be placed underneath during sewing. The buttonhole must be 3mm longer than the dia meter of the button, plus its height. The distance from the front should be equal to the buttonhole width. First mark the spacings and the distance from the edge. Mark the buttonhole length from this point to the inside. Then always sew from the inside towards the edge. Nine button-hole lengths are stored in the com puter: 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 mm. Upon program selection, a zigzag stitch width of 6 mm appears in the display. Select the required length for the buttonhole with stitch length key 125. The machine sews the selected buttonhole automatically. Adapting buttonhole seams with the balance key With the balance key (124) the left seam can be adjusted to the right one. Example: If the left seam is too short, Fig. 1: Using balance key, select + 1 to + 3 or more, if required. If the left seam is too long, Fig. 2: 1 to 2 or more, if Using balance key, select required. — — After sewing, cut the buttonholes open (see page 106). = Correction of a buttonhole It a buttonhole does not turn out correctly, it can be cancelled by selecting another program. Select the buttonhole again. 1 2 i ni; Cutting buttonholes open When you cut open a buttonhole it is important not to damage the bartacks. To avoid this, insert the seam ripper about 1 mm away from the bartack. Now carefully cut the buttonhole open to the middle, then repeat this from the bartack at the other end (Fig. 1). If you have no punch pliers to cut the eyelet, simply cut around the curve with a pair of pointed scissors. Sewing on buttons prog 15 -- - ( 3-5 Lowered Feed dog: Lay the button on the mark made on the fabrk beforehand and push the fabric with the buttor under the sewing foot holder (Fig. 2). Turn th hand wheel towards you and adjust the position ot the button so that the needle stitches into its lef hole. Lower the presser bar lifter Turn the hand wheel and check to make sure the needle enterr the right hole of the button. Then sew the button on. After backtacking, the needle stops in its upper position. 3 Sewing in zippers prog fl( -- (H Need/e down Key: There are different kinds of zippers: joined or split zippers and special ones for trousers or slacks. They can be inserted concealed or open, as requi red. The zipper foot can be engaged on the left or on the right, depending on the work (Figs. 1 and 2). Fufly concea’ed zippers Baste the zipper in first. Engage the zipper foot at its right side (Fig. 1). Place the open zipper under the foot so that its teeth run along the right edge of the foot (Fig 3). When you change the needle position respectively (see page 78), the zipper can be stitched in at a narrow margin. Sew about half the length of the zipper at the desired width. Leave the needle down in the fabric, raise the foot, and close the zipper (Fig. 4). Lower the foot, conti nue to sew until the end of the zipper, then sew the cross seam. Sew on the other side of the zipper parallel and at the same seam margin. Shortly before the end of the seam, leave the needle down in the material, raise the foot, and open the zipper (Fig. 5). Lower the foot again, and sew the rest of the seam. Our sewing tip: If you lack practice, we recom mend using the quilting gauge to obtain parallel seams. If the sewing foot is engaged with its right side, the needle position must only be changed to the right. If the sewing foot is engaged with its left side, the needle position must only be changed to the left. 5 107 Zippers for ladies’ slacks rjzi___ 00, 01 N 2 108 3 3—5 4 Stitch length: 2.5 to 3.0 mm Key: Needle down • Snap the zipper foot in at the right. Iron the fly edges. Baste the closed zipper under neath the pressed righthand fly edge so that lb teeth are still visible. Pin facing strip A” to the underside and stitch it down at the same time a you sew on the zipper. The zipper teeth move along the righthand guide edge (Fig. 1). Shortl before you reach the end of the seam, leave the needle down in the material, raise the sewing foo and open the zipper. Then lower the foot agair and sew the seam to the end. Close the zipper. Fold the right edge over the left and pin it in place according to the seam line. Then baste in the lefl zipper chain (Fig. 2). Open the zipper. Attach the edge guide anc adjust it so that its finger moves along the fabric edge (Fig. 3). Shortly before you reach the end 01 the seam, leave the needle down in the material raise the sewing foot and close the zipper. Then lower the foot again and sew to the end of the seam, Secure the end of the zipper seam with a tack. Our sewing tip: If a zipper jams after dry cleaning rub candle wax or a piece of soap over its teeth. It can then be opened and closed without any effort. 0 CD N :‘ 4 I Needle chart Using the adequate needle guarantees better processing of the material. light medium heavy Needle size: 60, 70, 75 Needle size: 80,90 Needle size: 100, 110,120 Needle points Point & eye Suitable for Light ball point Universal needle for fine-meshed synthetics, fine linen, chiffon, batiste, organdy, woolens, velvet, fancy seams and embroidery work. 130/705 H-SUK 70, 110 Medium ball point Coarse knitted fabrics, Lastex, doublejersey fabrics, Quiana and Simplex. 130/705 H-PS 75, 90 Medium ball point Stretch-fabric needle developed especially for Pfaff. Particularly suitable for delicate stretch and knitted fabrics. 130/705 H-SKF 70, 110 Heavy ball point Wide-meshed corsetry, Lycra, Simplex and Lastex. 130/705 H-J 90—110 Acute round point Twill, workwear, heavy linen, blue jeans and light canvas. 130/705 H-IL 70-120 Narrow twist point Leather, suede, calf and goatskin leathers. 130/705 H-PCI 80—110 Narrow wedge point with left-twist groove Imitation leathers, plastic materials, plastic sheeting and oilcloth, 130 H-N 70—110 Light ball point, long eye Seams topstitched with buttonhole silk or No. 3013 synthetic thread. Hemstitching point Attractive hemstitching on heavily dressed materials, organdy and glass cambric. System & No. Profile 130/705 H 70, 80 — — — 130/705 H-WING 100 _— cJ -( — 110 __ ede chart System &No.’ Stitch len hStitch wiJ Needle Suitable for spacing • 130/705 H-ZWI 80 25 mm 2.5mm 130/705H-ZWI 80 90 100 2.5mm 2.5mm 3.0 mm I — — — — — 1.6 mm 2.0mm Medium-wide cording 2.5mm 3.0mm 4.0 mm Widecording Extrawidecording Extra-wide cording Decorative designs sewn with twin needles into the s Before you start sewing, turn the handwheel and check to make sure the needle stitch fabric properly. In this way, needle breakage can be largely prevented. Decorative and zigzag patterns 130/705 H-ZWI 80 80 80 I) 0.5—1,5 mm 0.5—1.5mm 0.5—1.5mm - - wide narrow narrow 1.6 mm 2.0mm 2.5 mm j li_ Ornamentations Ornamentations Ornamentations Special hemstitching twin needle 130/705 H-ZWlHo 80 100 very narrow very narrow 2.0—3.0 mm 2.0—3.0mm I — — Decorative hemstitching effect. Heavily dressed fabrics are particularly suitable. I - — — — I 111 Fault finding Cause: Remedy: 1. Machine skips stitches Needle not inserted correctly. Push needle up as far as it will go, its flat shank side facing rear. Wrong needle used. Insert system 130/705 H needle. Needle bent or blunt. Insert new needle. Machine threaded improperly. Check threading. Needle too thin for thread used. Insert thicker needle. 2. Needle thread breaks For any of the above reasons. See par. 1 above. Thread tension too strong. Regulate thread tensions. Poor-quality or knotty thread used, or thread that has become too dry by excessive storage. Use only good-quality thread. 3. Needle breaks Needle not pushed up as far as it will go. Insert new needle and push it up as far as it will go. Needle bent. Insert new needle. Needle too thin or too thick. Refer to needle table. Needle bent and strikes needle plate because fabric is pushed or pulled. Let machine feed the fabric. Only guide the material lightly. Bobbin case improperly inserted. When inserting the bobbin case, push it in as far as it will go. 4. Seam is not uniform Tension out of adjustment. Check upper and lower tensions. Tread too thick, knotty or hard. Use first-class thread only. Bobbin thread wound unevenly. During bobbin winding, do not hold thread in hand, but pass it through the winder ten sion stud. Kinks appear on top and bottom of material. Thread machine properly and check both tensions. Cause: Remedy: 5. Machine feeds irregularly or not at all Lint has accumulated between tooth rows of feed dog. Remove needle plate and remove lint with a soft brush. Feed dog lowered. (Slide control is at right). Push slide control to the left. 6. Machine runs with difficulty Thread ends in hook raceway. Remove thread ends and put one drop of oil into hook raceway. 7. Electronic bobbin thread monitor does not work Thread ends and dirt have collected in the free arm cover over the sensor, in the hook raceway, in the bobbin case, behind the hook and on the second sen sor to the right behind the hook. Remove thread ends and dirt. Special care should be taken in the area round the second sensor. 8. Machine does not sew the program entered Switch the machine off, wait about 30 seconds, then switch it on again. Again enter the desired program. 9. Machine can no longer be programmed If you find that it is not possible to program the computer although it is not filled up, the machine must be switched off and on again after about 30 seconds. The MEM-memory is now cleared. The required program sequences must be input again. 10, The sewing lamp lights up, but the machine does not run Fuse is defective. Insert new fuse. Important: Before exchanging either sewing foot or needle, switch off master switch 107. Never run a threaded machine unless there is a piece of fabric under the sewing foot. If you have to leave the machine, even for a short while, be sure to switch off the master switch. This is particularly important when children are around. 113 UtHity sUtch programs 00 01 I I i I I J I <—> 02 III 11/ III 03 04 // / Ill &—> —> 06 05 cç 7 cz 07 1” : 08 N N r! — ‘% No. DescripUon AppHcation ‘-“-‘ Straight stitch with 13 needle positions For all sewing work requiring special needle positions. 01 Basting stitch For basting cuttings. 02 Stretch triple straight stitch stitchlengthl.5to3.Omm 03 Stretch tn p le strai g ht stitch stitch length 3 to 6 mm - ,/ lJ7 -. — — For very strong seams. Under any strain they stretch without tearing. They are used, for example, for inside leg seams on sports- and workwear, but also as a fancy seam. Stem stitch For embroidering with the embroidery programs. 05 Blind stitch For invisible hemming and shell-edging. 06 Stretch blind stitch r 10 1%, — ‘‘ 09 --_.---.-.-_- -- For invisible hemming in elastic materials (securing edges>. . 07 Cross stitch 08 Overlock stitch H-- . A high-stretch seam for sportswear. For sewing and serging in one operation. ------ Closed overlock stitch For joining and serging seams with edge thread Zigzag stitch from middle needle position For serging, appliquéing, inserting lace and basting with fringe foot. __ _. ____ 14 13 12 16 15 18 17 20 19 cçjj(,Q ,J i\ ‘s 21 c)k - T No. Description Application Zigzag stitch from right needle position Same as program 10 (for zigzag from left needle position push pattern reverse key). Purl stitch For sewing purl seams. 12 - 13 For buttonhole sewing. Light buttonhole - -— I—For buttonholes in outerwear, costumes, coats, etc. Eyelet buttonhole 1A -— For sewing on buttons. -. For sewing on elastic tape, darning tears and patching. Suitable for almost every fabric Stretch stitch 16 Closed overlock stitch 17 18 19 e rns nds :ea nga ing T Hoc g heavy-knits and jersey. Pullover stitch For elastic joining and serging seams in heavy-knits and jersey. Honeycomb stitch For sewing on elastic threads, covering terry-cloth seams and fancy hem seams (shirring effect). Stretch triple zigzag stitch For sewing elastic tapes in sportswear and bathing wear (high-stretch seam for light knitted fabrics). I L 21 , Fagotting stitch —- — _ -. - - For joining foundation wear Produces a fancy hem-stitching effect. 115 ___- _______ Embroidery stitch programs 23 22 25 24 26 27 28 29 ,: ‘,. 31 30 .‘-, 32 33 34 35 I_I •Jc’’/ 77Lr_.’..,; 4 ‘ 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 .0 9 22—36 40—50 ‘s’-’ - A, .0 .% IN IN ‘ , Embroidery stitch programs For fancy seams, ornaments, borders and embroideries. Cross stitch program for crossstitch embroidery in children’s wear, blouses, covers, etc. Hemstitching programs For hemstitching in table linen, bed linen, blouses, cloths, etc. Alphabets with special letters for languages For monograms and texts. — Block letters and numerals — Capital letters, numbers and punctuation marks. FAFF ritznerstra(3e 11 300 Karlsruhe 41 to oIterntons in design. Printed in Wnst Germany Nt 2992499401 engl HR 1192 IaIITE( h® t ALiL S 1147 Instruction Book C ) 4 A 2 Ornamental seams on leather h j ai3 htn ± Thread: embroidering/darning thread Needle: 130/705 H-LR, size 80 Since leather is a pliable material, an underlay of double-folded paper or light non-woven material (e. g. vylene) should always be used. Do not set the stitches too close, because leather splits easily and splits in leather show on the finished work. Flat leather seams prog Optional -- -- (J —3+ 0 Needle: 130/705 H-LR; size 80 Overlap the raw edges by about 1/2 cm. Topstitch both sides at a narrow margin using straight stitch. Instead of straight stitch it is also possible to use zigzag stitch or some other program to over-stitch the double seam. 53 Hemstitchng can be As the illustrations show, hem-stitching orce used in different ways, both as an edge reinf or linen table on effect fancy a as and ment clothing articles. •*t Hemstltching turned-in hem edges prog 2 ,J cci -3+ L38 2 Stitch width: 2 mm embroidering/darning thread Thread: turned-in hem edge (Fig. 4), first a h stitc To hem requi draw the number of fabric threads for the ne red hem stitch width. Place the hem breakli drawn are ds threa the where edge the t agains the and tack it in place. Now secure the hem using above-mentioned program. Hemstitching with wing needle prog 38 39 -- -- cci ii -3 + 2 Thread: embroidering/darning thread Needle: wing needle ds For this work, four threads are drawn, five threa are left in, then a further four threads are drawn. Oversew the five threads left in the fabric using program 38 or 39 (Figs. 2 and 3). Hemstitching as an edge finish made with the wing needle prog 38 4 -- ‘-I cci —3+ 0 Thread: embroidering/darning thread Needle: wing needle thir This edge finish is used on very light and es fabrics. It is particularly well suited for valanc thi: flounces and frills or for finishing edges. For of thr sewing job no threads must be drawn out fabri the along width -foot fabric. Sew at sewing guidE edge, using the edge of the sewing foot as a th Then carefully trim the excess material along (Fig. 5). ors sciss small a with hemstitching Inserting lace For this work, two worksteps are required First workstep prog L The lace insert is first secured to the face side of the material and is sewn on at a narrow margin with straight stitch. The material underneath the lace is cut open at the middle and ironed to the sides. Second workstep 1i prog L -3 + 10 0 1 width: as required Stitch Stitch length: as required Sew over the lace edge on both sides with small, dense zigzag-stitches from the face side. Cut off the remaining material on the reverse side (Fig. 1). ..., Attaching lace For this work, two worksteps are required First workstep \* .%‘ -‘,I 4• I prog 10 -3+ -a-- 0 Stitch width: 5.0 mm Stitch length: 1.5 mm Serge the raw edge with zigzag stitches (Fig. 2). . Second workstep 2 prog 00 [] -- a -- j -3+ 0 Stitch length: 3.0 mm Baste and sew the lace onto the face side of the material (Fig. 3). Secure the corners with stitches. Cording Cording foot + cording tongue (special acces sory) prog w rd foot Needle: Twin needle Cording seams are especially popular as a deco ration on underwear, dresses, blouses, etc. Cording sewn with the cording tongue Cording is always sewn with two needle threads Place a spool of thread on each spool pin and secure it in position with the corresponding unreeling disc. Place one thread to the right, and the other to the left of disc C” (Fig. 3 a). Then conti nue threading the machine, as usual. Do not twist the two threads. Thread each thread separately through thread guides and the needle eye (Fig. 3b). The thread tension should be adapted to each fabric type. The tighter the tension, the more pro minent the cording appears. Fig. 1 shows how the cording tongue is engaged. For thin materials, the cording foot with 7 groo ves, the small cording tongue and a twin needle of up to 2 mm are used. For thicker materials, the cording foot with 5 grooves, the large cording tongue and the respec tive twin needle are used. If you wish to sew several cordings beside each other, use the grooves of the cording foot (Fig. 2> For greater distances we recommend using the edge guide. 2 3 ____I—I Cording sewn with gimp thread prog -- 00 (J —5 + J corthng Needle: Twin needle Lift the needle plate off and pass the gimp thread through round hole A. After that re-insert the needle plate. Notch B’ is the entry groove (Fig. 1). Place the roll of gimp thread in front of the machine (see Fig. 2). Place the beginning of the gimp thread together with the needle- and bottom threads back under the cording foot. Move the detachable work sup port up to the machine. Choose a gimp thread of the same colour as the outer fabric. Narrow pleats E prog 00 -a--fl 3—5 0 Needle: 130/705-H, size 80 Iron the first fold line and stitch at the required width. Prepare and stitch the further fold groups in the same manner (Fig. 3), For stitching down wider pleats we recommend using the edge guide. Adjust the edge guide to the required width. Guide the material so that the fold runs along the edge guide. (See pages 60 and 73.) 3 3a 57 Shell edging prog 05 [ -5+ 2 Stitch length: 1.5 mm Pattern mirroring Key: Shell edging provides nice trimming, especially on sheer, soft materials. Fold over the fabric edge once along the line which is to be decorated. During sewing, the blindstitches draw in the fabric edge at regular intervals, thus producing a shelledge effect. The stronger the needle thread ten sion, the more the fabric edge is indented (Fig. 2). Adding a wool thread of a different colour not only reinforces the edge, but also makes an attractive contrast trimming. Place the material under the needle so that it pro trudes far enough to allow the wide zigzag blind stitch to pass over its edge (Fig. 1). . ..• .• • . • . . 2 Appliqué work ci For this, two worksteps are required. First workstep E prog 10 -.- cci ii 2—3 2 Stitch width: 0.5 mm Stitch length: 1.0 mm Trace the design on the reverse side of the fabric, lay the appliqué on the face side and baste it on, making sure it matches the fabric grain. Sew along the outline of the design on the reverse side (Fig, 1). Trim the excess material close to the contour seam (Fig. 2). Second workstep prog cc) [] 10 2—3 2 Stitch width: 1.5 mm Stitch length: 0.2 to 0.25 mm (for cording) Sew over the raw edges of the appliqué with nar row, dense zigzag (purl) stitches. To make the edge of the appliqué more promi nent, insert a filler cord in the seam (Figs. 3 and 4). Ready-made fabric appliqués can be applied much more easily. Before you cut out the design, iron on a fusible backing. This reinforces the mate rial, makes it easier to cut, and prevents fraying. Baste on the design. Place three layers of tissue paper under the fabric and sew along the edges of the design with dense, narrow zigzag stitches. In this way, a good-looking seam is produced. • For cording we recommend the appliqué foot (special accessory) 3 Quilting (C] prog [ 00 [i -- • Edge guide Seams stitched on articles filled with cotton wool or some other soft padding have a very prominent effect. For this purpose, batting, foam plastic or flannel is placed between the top ply and a light weight bottom ply (Fig. 3). To keep the fabric plies and the padding in place, baste them together with rows of long basting stit ches spread over the whole area. Squares and diamonds can be sewn on the straight or on the bias of the material. On fabrics with regular patterns stitch between the patterns or around them. The spacing between seams can be set as requi red by adjusting the guide accordingly. Trace the seam line for the first seam on the fabric or guide the quilting gauge along the straight-cul fabric edge. When you have completed the first seam move the work sideways so that the quilting gauge rum along the first seam or the traced seam line. Fo each subsequent seam, guide the gauge finge along the preceding line of stitching (Fig. 1). Quilting can also be done advantageously on pat terned materials. Preparation of the material is the same as describ ed above. Just sew around the contours and yot have a very beautiful piece of embroidery (Fig. 2) During the operation the needle position mus not be changed. 2 _ ___ Programming the computer with embroidery stitches and monograms 42 pog ,. olObo =139 /j///////// 3 Capacity of the MEM-memory for programs 00 to 50 prog • The Creative computer has one MEM-memory. • 12 programs (from 00 to 50) can be input to the MEM-niemory one after the other to form a pat tern sequence. • When the machine is switched off the pro grams stored are cancelled. • When the capacity of the memory is used up, two dashes appear on the display and no addi tional programs are accepted (Fig. 1). • The programs can be cancelled in the MEM memory by means of the mem key (105). Before a new program sequence is entered the MEM-memory must be empty. o 1. y/ && ///////////// — How to select the MEM-rnemory 104 prog th <> — 0 0 105 =139 ///////////// \ - -V 2 • Select the MEM-memory with the left “pro gramming” key 139 (Fig. 2). • The MEM-memory is free if no program num ber appears in display 104 (Fig. 2). • Select the desired program by pressing “pro gramming” keys 139 and enter it in the MEM memory by pressing the mem+ key 106 (Fig. 3). • If the program stored is no longer needed, can cel it in the MEM-memory by pressing the mem— key (105) (Fig. 2). r prog (>o j. o 125 123= Checking the programs stored If you want to check the program stored, • press “pattern start” key 123. • By repeatedly pressing key 125 the programs input can be checked one after the other as they appear in the display (Fig. 1). Symbol E to the left of the program number stands for program start (Fig. 1). Symbol to the right of the program number stands for the end of a program sequence (Fig, 2). Fifli. (>o i • &&& 105 /;)/-) yw Correcting the programs stored ///////////// — ‘ 2 Wrong programs can be deleted by repeatedly pressing the mem— key 105 (Fig. 2). Single patterns Various stitch patterns, such as monograms, numbers, program combinations, and embroi dery motifs, are very attractive when sewn as single patterns (Fig. 4). ‘ ess Wirq 1 6 i . t-fLttc ze after ) The machine sews the stitch pattern program med, ties off the seam and stops automatically. 3 63 __ Lengthening patterns at the same stitch density The pattern length in the decorative-stitch pro grams 40 to 48 and 50 can be varied, while the stitch density remains the same. The pattern can be varied in length from 2.0 to 90mm. When a pat tern is sewn with short stitches, its maximum length is limited (Fig. 1). Indicated below are the maximum and minimum pattern lengths for various stitch lengths. 2 Stitch length in mm Pattern length in mm from to 0.2 0.25 0.3 0.35 0,4 and over 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 50 60 70 80 90 Before entering a program, you can vary the pat tern length by pressing key 124. ILL i:iitni Example: • Select program 44 • Set pattern length 25 (with key 124) • Press key mem+ (106). The pattern is now stored with the modified data (Fig. 3). prog 124 ////I/uZ/uIJ/ Pattern mirroring 3 [Lii1Tfl!fI prog 122 - //LZL/i/iZ/1/ 4 If you want to sew a pattern mirror-inverted (Fig. 2), select the respective program, and press • “pattern mirroring” key 122 and • themem+keylO6. The pattern mirroring function is indicated by the vertical dash symbol appearing after the program number in the display (Fig. 4). Changing the stitch length if I prog ()o All programs and program combinations can be varied in length and width, as desired, and entered in the computer memory. Before entering the last decorative-stitch pattern program, determine the stitch length, using key 125 (Fig. 1). This altered stitch length determines the length of stitch of the programs entered previously. Example: • Select program 44 • Press mem+ key (106) • Select program 46 • Press mem+ key • Select program 44 • Press mem+ key • Select program 42 • Change the stitch length to 0.5 • Press mem+ key Now the entire program sequence together with the altered stitch length is stored in the computer memory (Fig. 1). 106 • 125 1//Zi/iiII/ZL I hLJL!/’I /1] prog () ? “a Changing the stitch width 106 1z//1I //Z Before entering a program you can change the stitch width by pressing key 140. Example: • Select program 44 • Stitch width 4.5 • Pressmem+ key The pattern together with the altered stitch width is now stored in the computer memory (Fig. 2). 2 A5 _ __ __ - ABLD EFGP-IIJKL t1NOPQRS TU V W XYZ ADL1 4242 prog <i>. C 1235679S 0 4242 :139 ///////////// 4 Programming letters and numbers ,- :i: • prog With your PFAFF Creative you can stitch the num bers from 0 to 9 and the etters of the alphabet. They can be used to decorate or mark linen goods or outerwear. You can even compose texts and write them on the fabric. 42 0 106 ° Capacity of MEM-memory for fetters and numbers. 139 You can input a sequence of 36 letters and num bers to the MEM-niemory. ///////////// L (i>. 4242 10 0 (1 -- -...-—3+ 2 Thread: embroidery thread Example: K L A U S • Select —A with the bottom-left (minus) pro gram key 139 (Fig. 1). • Select the letters K _L _A _U .S with the top-right (plus) program key 139, and • input them in the memory by pressing the mem + key 106 each time (Fig. 2). • Sew the stored program (Fig. 4). 2 prog prog 0 4242 : r ifter n 3. :139 -/zL/zz/zIzzzIS. 3 Sewing numbers .0 • Select program .0 (Fig. 3). The numbers are programmed in the same way as the letters. Also see page 67 Sewing dots L4iIJEJ1fLJJ prog ()e O I O - -. — 1 Sewing dots Dots can be used in many different ways. For instance after abbreviations or between two num bers, etc. [Lii 11111 i prog prog 0 r 0 -3+ ///////////// Example: 1.5 • Select .0 with the bottom-left (minus) program key 139 (Fig. 1) • Select .1 with the top-right (plus) program key 139 (Fig. 2) • Press the me m + key 106: the display shows 1 (Fig. 2) • Select point with the bottom-right (minus) program key 139 (Fig. 3) appears in • Press the me m + key: the point the display (Fig. 3) • Select .5 with the top-right (plus) program key 139 • Press the mem ÷ key: 5) appears in the dis play Sew the stored program (Fig. 4). . . 2 I LTi” 1 i i:i P9 (>o 0 //IZ/J/1ZZZ/ - 3 67 Spacing between two words ui prog .J 1 -3+ 2 Example:PFAFF _KARLSRUHE Between two words it is always necessary to pro gram a space. Depending on how much space is required, three or four space symbols are to be input (Fig. 1). • Press the bottom-right (minus) program key 139 until the symbol appears in the display (Fig. 3) • Press mem + key 106:thespace symbol— is shown in display 104 (Fig. 3) • Input three or four space symbols to the com puter with mem+ key 106 • Then input the next word (Fig. 1) — FFAF&Cf?EA 7 VE Sewing hyphens/dashes 104 prog i prog ()o ° 106 — ///////////// Ir Itw’ii:f ii 92 o 106 0 “2 139 ///////////// 68 -3+ 2 Example:PFAFF-CREATIVE • Press bottom-right (minus) program key 139 until the hyphen appears on the display in the required position (Fig. 4) • Press mem+ key 106 (Fig. 4) • The hyphen appears on the display • Program the rest of the text. ° 139 prog - a — 4 d { I H fer - 69 :Z $ - á2 4). H,4PPY 0 0 106 0 i4o BIRTHDAY zLLLzz/ 2 Writing texts Correcting program entries Start out by marking the beginning of the text on the fabric. After sewing, cut the threads between letters and numbers and in the spacings (Fig. 1). If you want to check the correctness of your text, press key !1 25+. The individual letters will then appear in the display (see page 63). If you have left out a letter or figure or entered a wrong one, you can correct the entry. Cancel the individual entries back up to the mistake and cor rect it using key 105 (mem—), Then enter the rest of the text again (see page 63). Letters and numbers in different sizes prog -- Programming names together with embroidery stitches c) -3+ For the mdi ;iuai notterns rjress key 116 Sie off/buttonhole after sewing start. See page 63. 2 Example: A B A Letters and numbers can be sewn in different sizes. The maximum character height is 6 mm. Before the last entry of a letter or number, its height can be determined by means of key 140 (Figs. 2 and 2 a). . Reduce the last letter A with . key 140 to 4 mm (Fig. 2) . Press mem+ key 106 (Fig. 2) . The height of the entire word has now been changed in the computer. rL prog 3641 -- (ci -3+ 2 • Select the following programs: 1 x 36 1 x41 1 x 36 3 x 00 _E _V ._A 3 x 00 1 x 36 1 x 41 1 x 36 and enter them in the computer memory by pressing key 106 (mem +) each time. • Sew the program stored (Fig. 3). oal oat few pre ns key 1 6 For ii e off/buttonhoie” after sewing start. See pag•.i. 63. 70 Ba’ancing out setters and numbers Letters or words shift occasionally, depending on the fabric used. This can be corrected with the “balancing” key (Fig. 1). The letter or number last input is corrected towards plus or minus with key 124, and the cor rection entered by pressing the mem + key 106. The correction takes effect for the entire program stored. prog -- ( Example: SURFEN (surfing) • Select program N (last letter). • Select +3 with “balancing” key 124 (Fig, 2). • Press mem+ key 106. The entire program has now been corrected with +3 (Fig. la). e fte’ 3e “33 SDREEV la prog • 106 0 247 124 ///////////// 2 c ,‘ . key S Sewing with straight, utility and stretch stitches Tips for embroidering and sewing with the PFAFF creative 1467 • Before you begin, first sew a test seam on a scrap piece of the same material. • Check stitch pattern and tension. • Secure the beginning and end of the seam by pressing the “tie-off/button-hole” key. • When sewing light, soft and stretch materials hold the thread ends at the beginning of sewing (Fig. 1). • With cross seams, such as lap-felled seams, we recommend cutting out the fold and pressing the seam. This will provide a flatter cross seam. • In the case of problem materials, you can achieve better sewing results with the left needle position. • Exact stitching of edges is facilitated by the marking guide lines on the needle plate or by an edge guide (Fig. 2). • If you have to interrupt work during sewing, e. g. with long fabric panels or upon change of sewing direction, select needle position “down”. • Thread the needle with the needle threader. 2 J 3 Top-stitching collar points • Insert a thread into each collar point before beginning to sew and leave approximately 10cm of thread hanging. When stitching the corner, you pull on the threads of the respec tive corner for the first stitches in sewing direc tion. The material feed is supported in this way and you obtain a beautifully stitched corner (Fig. 3). • For top-stitching edges, especially in the case of soft materials, a round-hole needle plate and a straight-stitch sewing foot with round needle hole can produce good sewing results (special accessories). • 4 Sewing aid for thick seams In order to ensure uniform feeding at the begin ning of the seam, we recommend supporting the sewing foot with a piece of material of the same thickness (Fig. 4). 73 U Dual feed Pfaff offer the only household sewing machine in the world with built in dual feed. By this means, the material is not only fed from below, but also from above simultaneously. During processing of long fabric panels, such as curtains and side curtains, etc., there is no shifting of the material plies. Also during assembly of checked or striped fabric panels the material is fed exactly by the dual feed. Especially during processing of delicatee mate rials, no seam pucker results. In the case of pla stics, oilcloth, imitation suede, etc. (i.e. in the case of extremely difficult materials), dual feed is an equally great help. It provides for excellent feed ing of your workpiece, and consistent seams. The dual feed can be combined with several sewing feet. raise sewing foot, push top feed To engage: downward until it engages. To disengage: lift sewing foot, press top feed lightly downward, pull it to the rear and allow it to move up. 74 I Sewing tips for different materials Woollen fabrics: well balanced stitch length and tension. Batiste: light needle thread tension and medium stitch length. Velvet or silk velour: baste the seam line twice and sew in grain direction with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 mm. Be careful when pressing velvet! Try out on a piece of waste fabric and do not press on the iron. Twill/jeans: use special needles for jeans fabrics. When sewing over thick intersections it is advis able to cut away seam allowances. Synthetic materials: do not baste such materials as plastic, foil or oilcloth (penetration holes!). Use long stitch lengths (4 to 6 mm) and the dual feed. Pure silk: set needle thread tension a little lower. Needle must be in perfect condition (otherwise fibres are pulled). Use stitch lengths between 2 and 2.5 mm. Knitted or crocheted materials: sew with light needle thread tension and elastic seams. Machine-embroidery silk: to obtain effective motif embroideries set the needle thread tension lighter, i. e. lower than the buttonhole range. 7P3 Making tailor’s tacks Fringe foot, special accessory prog cc] w -3 + 10 J Fonge toot 2 mm Stitchwidth: 80 Needle: Sewing thread: Machine embroidery thread Sasting is a useful method of transferring seam lines onto cuttings. the First mark all contours with tailoring chalk on ply. al top materi Sew along the marked lines with the fringe foot two When all lines have been basted, pull the and threads joining the find to apart fabric plies e tc cut these through carefully, to avoid damag the material (Fig. 1). 1 Basting cc] prog 01 —-3+ 1} 0 lowered Feed dog: Sewing thread: normal sewing thread c For trying on a garment, we recommend securin Placf the parts previously with basting stitches. on the workpiece under the sewing foot. Sew require the by al materi the pull stitch. After that, ur stitch length to the rear. Repeat this procedshi until basting is completed. In order to avoid ting of the material plies during securing of pattet th ned materials, insert dress pins crosswise to basting direction. Shifting of the material plies thus largely avoided (Fig. 2). 2 Basting at 6 mm stitch length prog -- , 6 mm Stitch length: do not lower the feed dog. S tion For this applica bastir1 the stitch length at 6 mm. Remove the thread after sewing. -.3 -.3 • N4 1)4 • S _ _ __ Lmi.ii71 14riSfLJT111 pog prog o 140 140 - o o /1/1IILIZ//i! J7/1111711111 Change of needle position with straight stitch Through adjustment of the needle (needle post tion), certain sewing work can be carried out easier. For example, if you wish to stitch at a nar row margin such as on collars or when inserting zippers, you select the required needle position • For changing the needle position, the needle must always be in its highest position. Right or left needle positions • Select program 00 • Press zigzag key 140; symbol E appears ir display 104 (Fig. 1) • By pressing the key zigzag + the needle pose tion can be changed to the right for six difle rent positions • Pressing the key zigzag changes the needk position to the left for six different positions • Needle position “right” is shown by th symbol behind the number in the displa (Fig. 2). Needle position ‘left” is indicated witi y5ml0 E in front of the number in the dis — — right left - 7 h / __________________________________________ ________________________________________ ______ ______ __________ __________ Change of needle position with zigzag stitch I I I I I (i>. 1 prog o 0 140 /1/f3 - 1 1i liii prog <> iJ 0 • The needle must always be in the highest posi tion. Right needle position (Fig. 3) e. g. 11 Program: Stitch-width: as required Stitch-length: as required Left needle position Program: 11 as required Stitch-width: as required Stitch-length: Key: pattern mirroring With the above settings the zigzag-stitch program stored can be sewn with the needle positioned at the right or left of its throw. If the zigzag stitch is to begin at the left of the needle throw, the “pattern mirroring” key must be pressed in addition. Pat tern mirroring is indicated by symbol appearing behind the number in the display. • The zigzag stitch length can be changed with stitch length key 125 (Fig. 4). 0 125 /I////IIuu/JL - 4 left right V 70 Straight stitch (ci prog 00 --i— E} 0 Sew normal materials with straight stitch. Select stitch length longer or shorter according to sewing work. Raise the sewing foot higher for diffi cult materials or several material plies. It is then easier to place the work under the sewing foot. Do not forget to lower the presser bar lifter, in order to ensure perfect sewing results. Certain work can be carried out easier with a change of needle position (see pages 78 and 79). Stretch triple straight stitch prog (V) -- (ci a You need elastic straight stitch seams for all stretchable materials and seams subjected to great stress, e. g. inside seams on trousers, ski wear and swimwear (Fig. 1). Zigzag stitch I prog (ci 10 3—5 0 1.0 mm Stitch width: 1.5 mm Stitch length: A stretchable seam can also be attained with a narrow zigzag stitch. It is applied especially for jer sey materials (Fig. 2). 2 2 Top-stitch seams Buttonhole thread as needle thread ((1 prog 0 00 100/120 Needle: Needle thread: buttonhole thread Bobbin thread: sewing thread longest stitch Stitch length: Top-stitch seams produce nice ornamental effects. For this, selection of a suitable thread is important. To obtain particularly prominent seams, we recommend using buttonhole thread Buttonhole thread as bobbin thread I c) prog -- • 00 I1 6-7 0 Buttonhole thread can also be wound on the bob bin and used as bobbin thread. In this case sewing thread should be used in the needle. Fo this sewing job the needle thread tension must bE set relatively high. For topstitching, the fabric i placed in the machine with the reverse side up Select the longest stitch. • For topstitching, a No.80 needle may be used • For difficult top-stitch seams we recommern using the straight-stitch foot (special acces sory). • Before you fit the straight-stitch foot, set th needle at its central position. 4 Twin-needle top-stitch seams op-stitch seams sewn with wo needle threads prog 00 - TI -- 3—5 [J prog -- 0 00 -a- 6.0 mm titch length: 80 Jeedle: sewing thread hread: you cannot find a suitable buttonhole thread, try use two needle threads together, Place one read to the right, and the other to the left of disc but thread both together through the needle ye. See page 56 (Fig. 3). riple-fancy-stitch seams rZTT 03 6.0 mm fitch length: 80 eedle: sewing thread read: This stitch can be used without any difficulty for sewing a top-stitch seam along lapel and pocket edges or sewing an ornamental seam (Figs. 1 + 2). For this, normal sewing thread is used. {;] 3—5 0 twin needle; needle gauge, as desired The twin needle can be used not only for embroi dery work, but also for top-stitching operations. It produces a particularly attractive effect along hem edges and on facings. Fold the bottom edge, the facing or border edge over to the reverse side and baste it down. Sew on the face side of the fabric with the twin needle. Trim excess material on the reverse side. (For threading instructions see page 56). Needle: Lap-seam felling imitation lap seam sewn with the ordinary sewing foot I prog 00 --H- 0 Place the two pieces of fabric one on top of the other with their face sides, and sew them together about one centimetre from the edge. Neaten the raw edge. Fold the seam allowance over to one side and press. Then topstitch on the face side of the fabric, using the edge of the sewing foot as a guide (Fig. 1). Double lap seam sewn with the felling foot I.11 (1 prog 3 00 — 5 Felling foot If two lines of stitching are to appear on the face side of the iapseamed fabric, the two pieces of fabric must be placed together with their reverse sides facing (Fig. 4a). If only one line of stitching is to appear on the face side of the lap-seamed fabric the two pieces of fabric must be placed together with their face sides facing (Fig. 4b). First workstep Place the two pieces of fabric one on top of the other with the bottom ply protruding by the width of the cutout in the felling foot. Make sure the protruding edge enters the felling foot so that it is folded and stitched down (Fig. 2). Second workstep Open the two pieces and insert the seam ridge in the fel ling foot. The ridge is folded down in the foot and stit ched down along the edge. Pull both fabric plies apart lightly during sewing (Fig. 3). • Two felling feet are available as special accessories for stitching margins of 4.5 and 6.5 mm. I i I I Ii I I I I I I I I Ii a 3 b Shirring with straight stitch prog -- - 4 mm Stitch length: In order to obtain consistent gather with straight stitch it is imperative to insert 2 to 4 shirring threads. First mark the starting line for the shirring on the face side of the fabric. Sew the first seam straight and carefully. During sewing, pull the fabric taut a little with your hands, because with long stitches the seam will pucker easily (Fig. 1). After sewing, leave about 15 cm of thread hang ing. The next two or three seams can be sewn at about sewing-foot width. Finally take hold of all underthreads and pull them. By this means you determine the amount of gather yourself. Please do not use fine threads, in order to ensure they do not break during gather ing. Afterwards, do not forget to tie off the threads at the beginning and end of the seams (Fig. 2). 85 Shirring with elastic thread prog 16 18 --3-5_ * Cording foot (special accessory) First mark the starting line for the shirred seams on the underside of the fabric. Insert the needle at the seam beginning point and place an elastic thread around the needle. Insert the elastic thread in the groove of the sewing foot in use. Lower the sewing foot and sew a number of seams at about foot width. Ensure that the elastic thread is not pierced during sewing and do not stretch it. Finally, pull the threads with your hand, and determine the amount of gather yourself. Knot the threads on the inside (see Fig. 1). Instead of elastic thread it is also possible to use heavy cotton thread (see Fig. 2). Pull the fabric to the required width and stitch the threads down. This provides you with a fixed shirr ed edge. • This work can be carried out with dual feed and sewing foot No. 0. I7 1 IT h® I i A t tL U 4 1147 Instruction Book 0 Shirring with shirring foot (special accessory) i;i Shurrnq toot 2 :- Stitch length: 3—4 mm How to engage the shirring foot Insert the shirring foot with its rear pin in groove “A” and push the shoe upwards so that front pin “B” snaps in (Fig. 2). How to gather Both outer fabric and the material to be shirred are sewn together with the shirring foot in one workstep. Ensure that the gathered material always goes under the foot and the smooth outer fabric in the foot cutout (Fig. 1). Lightly stretch the outer fabric during sewing; by this means you determine the degree of gathering. How to disengage the foot: Raise the presser bar lifter, Disengage the sewing foot by pushing its front part down. Press up and hold the presser bar lifter and remove the sewing foot to the rear. H c7 / / I Smocking with elastic thread L prog 00 I -- (() 3—5 0 3 to 4 mm Stitch length: Bobbin thread: elastic thread, (wind tensionfree on bobbin) Needle thread: sewing thread For sewing with elastic threads we recommend buying an additional bobbin case. Because elastic threads are much thicker than an ordinary bobbin thread, the tension on the bobbin case has to be set looser. The greater the bobbin thread tension the greater the shirring effect. The most suitable fabrics are nylon, satin, batiste and fine-knit fabrics. The amount of gathering can be determined by testing on a piece of waste fabric. Sew the seams at about foot width (Fig. 1). Tie off the seams on the reverse fabric side at the beginning and end of the seams. If there are several parallel seams, the material must be stretched to its original width during sewing, otherwise the shirring will turn out irregu lar. Do not forget to carry out a sewing test. 88 Overcasting with zigzag stitch prog -.- 10 -“‘‘‘ cci r;i 3—5 0 Stitch-width: as required Sewing thread: Embroidery/darning thread or sewing thread The stored zigzag-stitch is suitable for serging of light materials. The heavier the material, the wider the stitch width must be selected for the zigzag stitch. Ensure that the needle passes over the fabric edge during sewing. In this way the material edge is properly serged and well covered (Fig. 1>. For heavy or easily fraying materials, use: • Program: 16 or 09 (Fig. 3). 1 Overcasting with overlock foot For materials which contract during serging use the overlock foot. 11 L prog 2 ‘-“ — - I I (ci 35 J 3 Stitch-width: as required Serge the raw edge with the required zigzag stitch. The material enters at the red marking on the sewing foot (Fig. 2). • Preparation of the sewing foot (overlock foot No. 3) Turn screw ‘A” fully to the front. The red mark “B” is then on the right sewing foot side. Allow the edge of the material to be sewn to enter close against the red mark. During sewing, the thread is placed over the wire “C”. By this means you will receive a beautiful smooth seam (Fig. 2). For change of needle position for zigzag stitch see page 79. C’) fL1 (p -. , CD th 3 -‘CD D DC,) CD CD • - Q- C a- 0 ‘CD D -CD CD 3 CD o cE 3.DCD CD C-) DD a- CD - o —3 Q’ 3 D ) CD Dc CD th - — co 0 0101 — o o o o cc-..) Ii: 01 C) CD _+ 1’ -MCD -‘ cQ) CD - CD - CD -D_D D3D CD — z CD (0 cCCD - 3 )0r D CD COO) 0 a- C0 3 CD 3 CC) C’) C’)’CO o a cCDo D.C’) -C_• CD a- 2.0) 3 0 2 0 0 3D CO -, 0 CICO — DC CC) -D CD C,) C’) C’) CD C- 2.),) CD CD 2 00 “ 9< 2C1) a- CD — -Q __,i_—4 CD 2. th 00 C cn D 0101 -, s:;: CD “Dy -‘D 5 CD 3 :3DC-)D) g’- 0 C,) C) -4, C, -4. Li, CD N CD N CD 0-’ -4. C)D D 0 C Sewing and overcasting in one operation Seams which are not ironed open can be sewn together and serged in one workstep. The Pfaff Creative 1467 offers a selection of diffe rent elastic assembly and serging seams from which you can easily select the corresponding seam for all stretchable materials. Closed overlock stitch or overcasting stitch Lt±t5oH Material: Jersey Especially jersey materials can be sewn together and serged in one workstep with the recommend ed stitches (Fig. 1). Sleeve cuffs or knit collars can be sewn on with the above-mentioned programs in a wear-resist ant manner just the same. Sewing neck openings: Measure the required width and close the stand at the correct curvature and press open the seam, fold over in lengthwise direction and pin onto neck cutout from face side. The raw edges of the knit facing are placed on the raw edge of the cutout. In one workstep, knit facing and cutout edge are sewn together (Fig. 3). In order to avoid waviness in the case of loosely woven materials, insert an elastic thread. By this means, the seam keeps its original shape (Fig. 2). 2 3 Closed overlock stitch prog 17 -- - 3-5 * Knit-edge foot (special accessory) 70 or 80 Needle: Fashion-knitted parts can easily be joined with the closed overlock stitch. In order to obtain a perfect seam on fashion-cut knitted parts, we recommend to insert a wool thread and hold it with a slight tension while it is over-stitched (Fig. 1). * Overlock stitch with edge-thread effect L prog 09 I -- 3 Stitch length: 3.0 mm Position the raw edges under the sewing foot as shown in Fig. 2. Make sure the needle in its right position stitches just beyond the fabric edge. In this way, the edge thread is placed over the raw edge and serves as an edge protection. For set ting overlook foot No. 3 see page 89. 2 92 Honeycomb stitch prog 19 -- -- 3—5 0 Overlap the fabric edges by 1.5 cm, then neaten each raw edge with: • Program 19 • Stitch-width 6.0 mm • Stitch length 2.0 mm (Fig. 1) Elastic stitch prog 16 ij -- -- Overlap the material edges by 1.5 cm and overstitch each edge with: • Program 16 and • stitch length 0.5 mm (Fig. 2). Elastic stitch prog (for underwear) -- 16 3-5 0 Cut off the stretched elastic tape close to the edge. Gather the fabric to the waist size using straight stitch. Push the part prepared in this way between the elastic tape and pin it firmly. Stitch it on using elastic stitches. Finally over-stitch the closed tape with elastic stitches (Fig. 3). Elastic straps 2 prog 16 (outerwear) -- 3—S 0 On skirts or trousers sew the strap onto the pre pared edge with elastic stitches. Honeycomb stitch r / prog 19 i I 3—5 0 Honeycomb stitch is especially suitable as a means of securing hems on stretchable lining materials. Fold the hem double up to the hem edge and overcast with honeycomb stitch (Fig. 1). Securing hems with the twin needle (Tshirt seam) prog ((1 [1 00 2—3 0 Needle: twin needle, 4 mm distance For a 2cm hem, turn over and baste about 2.5 cm of material, Stitch on the face side at about 2cm width. Cut off the protruding material edge on the inside along the seam (Fig. 2). For threading instructions see page 56. 2 Narrow hem with the hemmer foot L prog 00 -- - CC] li 3—5 * Hemmer foot (special accessory) Hemming secures the fabric edge against fraying and produces a neat and durable edge. The hem width is about 4 mm. Begin by folding the fabric edge over twice and placing the folded edge under the hemmer foot. Lower the foot and secure the hem in position with a few stitches. Fig. 1 shows how the fabric is drawn into the hem mer foot scroll with the aid of the stitched-down threads. Fig. 2 shows how the fabric edge is fed into the hemmer foot scroll. Hold the fabric tight as you guide it during sewing. Make sure the fabric con tacts the edge of the right half of the hemmer foot as it enters the scroll. * Rolled hem with the rolled hem foot I prog “‘- - 10 3-5 * Roll hemmer (special accessory) Use the roll hemmer foot for hemming nylon, tncot and chiffon. Begin by stretching the fabric to see which way the edge curls. This is the side to which the hem must be rolled. Draw the fabric into the hemmer scroll with the aid of sewn-on threads. Set the stitch width just wide enough that the need’e stitches close to the drawn-in hem edge (Fig. 3). In this way, an attractive shell edge effect is obtained. * I 95 Binding edges with non-woven tape Fold ready-made bias binding lengthwise and shape-press. Push the folded binding over the fabric edge and baste it in place, if required. Then sew it on with straight stitches (Fig. 1). Edge-binding with the binder Binder (special accessory) 00 (Fig. a) 2.5 mm, or 10 Program: 2.5 mm Stitch-width: (Fig. b) 1.5 mm, Stitch length: Remove sewing foot and screw on binder. Insert the bias tape in the scroll of the binder and pull it out to the rear. Set the binder in such a way that the needle enters ito 1.5 mm from the turned-in bias edge. Sew a number of stitches along the bias tape. Place the raw edge in the groove of the binder. During sewing, the bias tape is wrapped automatically over the material edges. Sew the bias tape on with the above mentioned program or a program of your own selection. Straight mate rial edges are the simplest to bind (Fig. 2). Sewing foot: Program: Stitch length: a b Blind stitch Fold the previously overcast raw edge over to form a hem of the desired width and baste about 0.5 cm from the fabric edge. Place the fabric under the blindstitch foot and sew, making sure the folded fabric edge runs along edge guide “B” of the blindstitch toot (Fig. 1 + 2a). Before you start blindstitching, adjust the needle penetration point on the folded fabric edge. To do this, adjust the position of edge guide “B” by turning regulating screw ‘A’ so that the needle catches only one thread in the folded edge when it makes its left stitch. Sew a trial seam on a piece of scrap material first. • Then proceed as described above (Fig. 2) Blind stitch (for elastic materials) I’, ro i 06 -- -3+ 3 Program 06 is suitable for stretch fabrics. First fold the hem to the desired width and baste. Adjust the needle position as described above. Now you can sew the hem (Fig. 2b). • Follow the instructions given above, 2 / 2a 2b n7 Darning with straight stitch lowered in darning position embroidery and darning thread Darning position (Fig. 1): Lower presser bar lifter ‘A”, at the same time pushing it back slightly until it enters notch “B” at the bottom of its slot. Attaching the darning foot (Fig. 2): Raise the needle. Push lever “E” towards the back and hold it there. Insert the pin of the foot in hole “C” and insert the foot so that it rests against its stop. When you do so, guide fork “G” fits around the presser bar. Release clamp “E”, which then moves down onto retaining screw “F”. Tighten screw ‘D” Draw up the bobbin thread. Hold both threads until the machine has made a few stitches. First sew a few stitches in the unworn area of the fabric. Then stitch over the damaged spot from one side to the other in serpentine fashion, placing the lines of stitching close together (Fig. 3). When the damaged spot has been covered completely, turn the work through 90’ and darn at right angles to the preceding row of stitches (see Fig. 4). You determine the length of the darning stitches by the rate at which you move the fabric back and forth, Feed dog: Presser bar lifter: Sewing thread: 2 -‘ r r -, — I 3 4 Darning with wool prog -- cci 2-3 Feed dog: Presser bar lifter: 6 lowered in darning position (see page 98) Sewing thread: embroidery and darning thread, wool Draw the wool thread through the needle hole of the darning foot and into the thread guide (Fig. 1). Place the wool thread under the darning foot. Start at the top left and place the wool thread back and forth across the damaged area with pro gram 10 (Fig. 2). Then cut the yarn and sew over the rows of wool thread with zigzag stitches or an elastic-stitch seam (Fig. 3). Do not place the lines of stitching too close to gether as this would make the darn too hard. All darning work described above is carried out on the reverse side of the fabric, so that the darn looks neater on the face side. 2 Darning with elastic stitch HTh35O Sew as many elastic-stitch seams over the dama ged spot as may be required to cover it comple tely. Overlap the seams slightly (Fig. 1). Inserting patches 1 — 0.5 mm Stitch length: down Needle position: The new piece of fabric is pinned on the face side and the fabric edge over-sewn with the selected stitch. To make the patch more durable you can sew a second seam at sewing-foot width from the first. Afterwards cut away the damaged material on the inside (Fig. 2). Darning torn fabrics prog 619 1H 2 — - I 3—5 0 For mending tears, frayed edges and small holes place a piece of material under the torn fabric which is larger than the damaged area. Stitch ovei the area at the width of the tear. The materia underneath reinforces the damaged material anc ensures reliable darning. Trim any protrudinç material on the underside close to the edgE (Fig. 3). -‘ 0 7- b a 0 J 2 Lingerie buttonholes prog tJ Sewing thread: Embroidery and darning thread Generally buttonholes are sewn onto double material. In spite of this, a piece of paper should be placed underneath during sewing. First mark the spacings and the distance from the edge. The points thus obtained always mark the beginning of sewing. Pull the runner of the buttonhole foot fully to the front before beginning the buttonhole. Sew the first lengthwise seam at the required length (Fig. la). Press key 116 “tie-off/button hole. After that the Pfaff Creative sews the first bar and the reverse seam (Fig. 1 b). Shortly before the end of the reverse seam the machine automa tically slows down, thus calling attention to the final bartack that is to be sewn now. Press key 116 (Fig. 1) again one zigzag stitch before the reverse seam has the same length as the first buttonhole seam, then sew the second bartack. The machine automatically secures the buttonhole at the end and then stops (Fig. ic). The buttonhole is now stored. Without actuating further keys, the follow ing buttonholes can now be sewn automatically. If you wish to determine the 2nd bar for a pro grammed buttonhole, press key 116. The display will then show a full stop at the left of program 13. Shortly before the end of the reverse, seam the machine automatically slows down. As soon as both seams have the same length, press key 116 again. The machine now sews the 2nd bar and secures the buttonhole. 102 For sewing the following buttonholes it will be good to lift the fabric a little in order not to affect feeding of the fabric. The sewing speed must remain constant. • If a buttonhole was not programmed correctly it can be cancelled by selectIng another pro gram. Select program 13 agaIn and repeat programming of the buttonhole. ÷ 4 Balancing the density of buttonhole seams vVith key 124 the left buttonhole seam can be adapted to the right one. First make a sample but onhole. • Sew the first buttonhole seam in the length required and • the first bartack. I Set balance key 124 toward + or and adjust the second buttonhole seam to the first one (Fig. 3). I Sew last bartack. • This change will be maintained for the follow ing buttonholes. — Adaption of buttonhole length garment may consist of different numbers of abric plies, e. g. the buttonhole strip may consist f three plies and the collar stand of six owing to the folded seam edge. In this case it is necessary to program the computer for varying numbers of fabric plies in order to maintain the same button iole length as on the 3-ply buttonhole strip. — Changing the buttonhole width Ear every fabric type, the corresponding button ole width can be determined up to 5.5 mm. For eavy materials select a wide buttonhole and a arrow one for light materials. With the stitch ‘idth key (140), you determine the required but nnhole width. The length of the cut is changed utomatically (Fig. 4). A buttonhole width of 5mm is stored. 103 Changing the buttonhole stitch length With the stitch length key (125), the buttonhole seams can be set more densely or loosely. Buttonholes with gimp thread In the case of elastic materials, it is possible that the button holes extend. Therefore, the button hole strip should be strengthened with interlining material. In order to retain the shape of the button hole, use gimp thread if possible. Place the gimp thread over the back ridge “A”, pull taut and jam it into front ridge “B” to the left and right (Fig. 1). (Pull runner fully forwards). The buttonhole sequence is the same as without gimp thread, see page 102. After completing the buttonhole pull on both thread ends of the gimp thread (Fig. 2), until the loop is covered up by the bar. This is where the button is located later. Pull the gimp threads through to the underside with a needle, secure them and trim them. We recommend to determine the second scans bar yourself for this type of buttonhole (see page 102). Single buttonhole As you know, it is difficult to sew buttonholes in collar stands, waistband strips etc. In such cases, the buttonhole length should be drawn in pre viously and the first seam, bartack and second seam controlled by hand. Sewing foot No. 2 can also be used for this work. (Sewing procedure as described on page 102). 104 Adapting buttonhole seams with the balance key Eyelet buttonholes prog 14 -- -- -3+ Sewing thread: Embroidery and darning thread press “sew slow” Key: Eyelet buttonholes are often sewn in outerwear, such as jackets, coats or leisure wear. They should always be sewn with backing material underneath. However, a piece of paper should also be placed underneath during sewing. The buttonhole must be 3mm longer than the dia meter of the button, plus its height. The distance from the front should be equal to the buttonhole width. First mark the spacings and the distance from the edge. Mark the buttonhole length from this point to the inside. Then always sew from the inside towards the edge. Nine button-hole lengths are stored in the com puter: 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32 mm. Upon program selection, a zigzag stitch width of 6mm appears in the display. Select the required length for the buttonhole with stitch length key 125. The machine sews the selected buttonhole automatically. With the balance key (124) the left seam can be adjusted to the right one. Example: If the left seam is too short, Fig. 1: Using balance key, select + 1 to + 3 or more, t required. If the left seam Is too long, Fig. 2: Using balance key, select 1 to 2 or more, f required. — — = A Correction of a buttonhole If a buttonhole does not turn out correctly, It can be cancelled by selecting another program. Select the buttonhole again. 1 2 105 Cutting buttonholes open When cutting open the buttonhole it is important not to damage the bartacks. In order to avoid this, insert a dresspin crosswise in front of each tack. Insert the point of the ripper in the middle of the buttonhole seam and cut open one half carefully, then cut open the other half in the opposite direc tion. If you have no punch pliers to cut the eyelet, simply cut around the curve with a pair of pointed scissors. I Sewing on buttons prog 15 -- ccl 3—5 [] — Lowered Feed dog: Lay the button on the mark made on the fabric beforehand and push the fabric with the button under the sewing foot holder (Fig. 2). Turn the hand wheel towards you and adjust the position of the button so that the needle stitches into its left hole. Lower the presser bar lifter. Turn the hand wheel and check to make sure the needle enters the right hole of the button. Then sew the button on. After backtacking, the needle stops in its upper position. 3 Sewing in zippers prog 00 -- -- ( [] 3-5 4 Needle down Key: There are different kinds of zippers: joined or split zippers and special ones for trousers or slacks. They can be inserted concealed or open, as requi red. The zipper foot can be engaged on the left or on the right, depending on the work (Figs. 1 and 2). Fully concealed zippers Baste the zipper in first. Engage the zipper foot at its right side (Fig. 1). Place the open zipper under the foot so that its teeth run along the right edge of the foot (Hg. 3). When you change the needle position respectively (see page 78), the zipper can be stitched in at a narrow margin. Sew about half the length of the zipper at the desired width. Leave the needle down in the fabric, raise the foot, and close the zipper (Fig. 4). Lower the foot, conti nue to sew until the end of the zipper, then sew the cross seam. Sew on the other side of the zipper parallel and at the same seam margin. Shortly before the end of the seam, leave the needle down in the material, raise the foot, and open the zipper (Fig. 5). Lower the foot again, and sew the rest of the seam. Our sewing tip: If you lack practice, we recom mend using the quilting gauge to obtain parallel seams. If the sewing foot is engaged with its right side, the needle position must only be changed to the right. If the sewing foot is engaged with its left side, the needle position must only be changed to the left. 5 107 Zippers for ladies’ slacks prog 00 -- cci --1- 4 Stitch length: 2.5 to 3,0 mm Needle down Key: • Snap the zipper foot in at the right. Iron the fly edges. Baste the closed zipper under neath the pressed right-hand fly edge so that its teeth are still visible. Pin facing strip “A” to the underside and stitch it down at the same time as you sew on the zipper. The zipper teeth move along the right-hand guide edge (Fig. 1). Shortly before you reach the end of the seam, leave the needle down in the material, raise the sewing foot and open the zipper. Then lower the foot again and sew the seam to the end. Close the zipper. Fold the right edge over the left and pin it in place according to the seam line. Then baste in the left zipper chain (Fig. 2). Open the zipper. Attach the edge guide and adjust it so that its finger moves along the fabric edge (Fig. 3). Shortly before you reach the end of the seam, leave the needle down in the material, raise the sewing foot and close the zipper. Then lower the foot again and sew to the end of the seam. Secure the end of the zipper seam with a tack. Our sewing tip: If a zipper jams after dry cleaning, rub candle wax or a piece of soap over its teeth. It can then be opened and closed without any effort. -c —. 2 3 6W Needle chart Using the adequate needle guarantees better processing of the material. Fabric weight: light Fabric weight: Fabric weight: medium heavy Needle size: 60, 70, 75 Needle size: 80,90 Needle size: 100,110,120 Needle points Point & eye Suitable for 130/705 H 70, 80 Light ball point Universal needle for fine-meshed synthetics, fine linen, chiffon, batiste, organdy, woolens, velvet, fancy seams and embroidery work. 130/705 H-SUK 70, 110 Medium ball point Coarse knitted fabrics, Lastex, doublejersey fabrics, Quiana and Simplex. Medium ball point Stretch-fabric needle developed especially for Pfaff. Particularly suitable for delicate stretch and knitted fabrics. 130/705 H-SKF 70, 110 Heavy ball point Wide-meshed corsetry, Lycra, Simplex and Lastex. 130/705 H-J 90—110 Acute round point Twill, workwear, heavy linen, blue jeans and light canvas. 130/705 H-LR 70—120 Narrow twist point Leather, suede, calf and goatskin leathers. 130/705 H-PCI. 80—110 Narrow wedge point with left-twist groove Imitation leathers, plastic materials, plastic sheeting and oilcloth. 130 H-N 70—110 Light ball point, long eye Seams topstitched with buttonhole silk or No. 30/3 synthetic thread. Hemstitching point Attractive hemstitching on heavily dressed materials, organdy and glass cambric. System & No. 130/705 H-PS 75, 90 130/705 H-WING 100 Profile -zE .IEr-:EE:::E -C Needle chart System & No. Stitch length 130/705 H-ZW1 80 2.5mm 2.5 mm 130/705 H-ZWI 80 90 100 2.5mm 2.5 mm 3.0 mm Stitch width — — — - - Needle spacing Suitable for 1.6mm 2.0 mm Medium-wide cording 2.5 mm 3.0 mm 4.0 mm Wide cording Extra wide cording Extrawide cording Decorative designs sewn with twin needles Before you start sewing, turn the handwheel and check to make sure the needles stitch into the fabric properly. In this way, needle breakage can be largely prevented. Decorative and zigzag patterns 130/705 H-ZWI 80 80 80 0.5—1.5 mm 0.5—1.5mm 0.5—1.5 mm wide narrow narrow 1.6 mm 2.0mm 2.5 mm Ornamentations Ornamentations Ornamentations Special hemstitching twin needle } 130/705 80 100 2.0—3.0 mm 2.0—3.0mm very narrow very narrow — — Decorative hem stitching effect. Heavily dressed fabrics are par ticularly suitable. ill Fault finding Cause: Remedy: 1. Machine skips stitches Needle not inserted correctly. Push needle up as far as it will go, its flat shank side facing rear. Wrong needle used. Insert system 130/705 H needle. Needle bent or blunt. Insert new needle. Machine threaded improperly. Check threading. Needle too thin for thread used. Insert thicker needle. 2. Needle thread breaks For any of the above reasons. See par. 1 above. Thread tension too strong. Regulate thread tensions. Poor-quality or knotty thread used, or thread that has become too dry by excessive storage. Use only good-quality thread. 3. Needle breaks Needle not pushed up as far as it will go. Insert new needle and push it up as far as it will go. Needle bent. Insert new needle. Needle too thin or too thick. Refer to needle table. Needle bent and strikes needle plate because fabric is pushed or pulled. Let machine feed the fabric. Only guide the material lightly. Bobbin case improperly inserted. When inserting the bobbin case, push it in as far as it will go. 4 Seam is not uniform Tension out of adjustment. Check upper and lower tensions. Tread too thick, knotty or hard. Use first-class thread only. Bobbin thread wound unevenly. During bobbin winding, do not hold thread in hand, but pass it through the winder ten sion stud. Kinks appear on top and bottom of material. Thread machine properly and check both tensions. J Cause: Remedy: 5. Machine feeds irregularly or not at all Lint has accumulated between tooth rows of feed dog. Remove needle plate and remove lint with a soft brush. Feed dog lowered. (Slide control is at right). Push slide control to the left. 6. Machine runs with difficulty Thread ends in hook raceway. Remove thread ends and put one drop of oil into hook raceway. 7. Electronic bobbin thread monitor does not work Thread ends and dirt have collected in the free arm cover over the sensor, in the hook raceway, in the bobbin case, behind the hook and on the second sen sor to the right behind the hook. Remove thread ends and dirt. Special care should be taken in the area round the second sensor. 8. Machine does not sew the program entered Switch the machine off, wait about 30 seconds, then switch it on again. Again enter the desired program. 9. Machine can no longer be programmed If you find that it is not possible to program the computer although it is not filled up, the machine must be switched off and on again after about 30 seconds, The MEM-memory is now cleared. The required program sequences must be input again. 10. The sewing lamp lights up, but the machine does not run Fuse is defective. Insert new fuse. Important: Before exchanging either sewing foot or needle, switch off master switch 107. Never run a threaded machine unless there is a piece of fabric under the sewing foot. If you have to leave the machine, even for a short while, be sure to switch off the master switch, This is particularly important when children are around. ii,