Fall 2004 - Gunks Climbers` Coalition

Table of contents
4
Ethan Ladof
5
Jannette Pazer, our website guru, writes
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Gunks News: new Access Fund rep; MUA
7
Events:
© 2004 Mike Stanislaw
Cover:
(Cooper
Caillier belaying Rick
Clark on the Dangler)
Mike Stanislaw has
been a climber and photographer for more than
ten years. In addition to
his Talus contributions,
he donates time and
technical expertise to
the GCC website.
3
recently caught up with
climbing legend and guidebook author and
all-around good sport Dick Williams
about Gunks love, ...“Let us fall in love with the
Gunks and create a relationship that
will stand the test of time.”
Campground cleanup; titanium litter purchase;
rescue equipment fund established
Oct 15
Climbing legend Henry Barber hosts
a slide show. You do not want to miss
this one. Mohonk Preserve Visitors
Center, 7pm.
Gunks Ethics:
Bouldering is exploding in popularity,
at the Gunks and elsewhere.
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Members’ Corner: in this issue: photos and poetry.
We want your poems, photos, short
stories (500 words or less), drawings,
etc. We know you can climb, but
we’re betting you can write too.
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Letter From
The Steering
Committee:
What a wild and
busy summer for
the GCC!
Frankly, the Steering Committee
was psyched at
the speedy and
enthusiastic response to the titanium litter drive.
In short order we
provided state-ofthe-art rescue
equipment for the
Preserve. Hands
down, this demonstrates how a
few dedicated individuals can get
the ball rolling,
and it shows what
the climbing community is capable
of accomplishing.
We need more
successes like
this.
Climb safe this fall.
GCC CHATS WITH DICK WILLIAMS
© 2004 Chris Moratz
GCC member Ethan
Ladof recently caught
up with climbing
legend and guidebook
author and all-around
good sport Dick
Williams and the two talked
about Williams’ current passion: trail
building at the Gunks. Ladof has
worked on the Williams’ crew during
the last two years, and has helped
rebuild trails at the base of the Mac
Wall (including the trail up to the
wall), the trail to Arrow, and at the
base of Arrow and Limelight.
Ethan Ladof: Dick, what year
did you start climbing here at
The Gunks?
Dick Williams: I started climbing in
1957 at Breakneck Ridge [located in
Hudson Highlands State Park]. The
first time I climbed at The Gunks
was 1958.
EL: I imagine it was a lot different
in those days. How many climbers
might show up on a weekend?
DW: (Laughs) If there were 30
climbers…that was crowded!
EL: The sport has certainly grown
in popularity. Dick, I’ve noticed in
all the guidebooks you’ve written
and published that the introduction
always contains advice on treating
the climbing areas, shall we say,
reverently? In a 1972 guidebook
© 2004 Mike Stanislaw
you write how delicate the terrain
is to foot traffic, the importance
of respecting wildlife and nesting
areas, and the absolute need to
leave no trace. These passages
are perhaps more relevant today
as more and more people use the
land. As a climber and author you
have always been environmentally
concerned. Can you tell us what
or who might have influenced you
along those lines?
DW. Yes, It was my fellow
Vulgarians. We were very sensitive
and aware of the litter and graffiti
at the hairpin turn on the shale bank
there. We were also sensitive to the
noise pollution from the cars on the
roadway. I proposed a clean up of
the shale bank and we did just that;
took us all day. That was back in the
mid 60’s.
EL: The last two years you have
been doing a great deal of volunteer
work at The Mohonk Preserve.
Specifically you and your crew of
volunteers have been rebuilding
trails and shoring up erosion at the
base of the cliffs. How many manhours do you estimate you and your
crew have donated to The Preserve?
DW. So far, about 1,070.
EL: I’ve seen a great deal of this
work. It’s fabulous! It’s great to see
you and your crew giving back to
The Preserve. Is there anything you
would like to add about the trail
crew?
DW. The volunteers are a great
bunch of people and fun to work
with. They are dedicated and hard
working people who give up those
precious climbing days for the great
cause of keeping this wonderful
area fit for the eye.
EL: Dick, it’s been great talking
with you. Thanks for all the positive
contributions you have made over
your long climbing career.
Mike Donnelly aid climbing Twilight Zone 5.13 -5.7 C2
Editor’s Note: for those interested
in joining a trail building team,
please contact the GCC via
newsletter@gunksclimbers.org
GUNKS LOVERS
By Jannette Pazer
There are many types
of relationships. Those
that last and that are
mutually beneficial to
both parties involved
are those which are
loving and caring
relationships. They are
relationship where both people are
always willing to communicate,
enjoy pleasing each other, and feel
a strong desire to take care of each
other.
I recall someone at a Mohonk
Preserve event mentioning how
Gunks climbers evolve over time. In
the beginning they try to cheat and
get around the ranger so they don’t
have to pay for a day pass. Later
they understand the need to help
pay to maintain the preserve so they
are willing to buy a day pass. As
time goes on, they feel a stronger
bond with the land and a stronger
responsibility to take care of it.They
become members, they donate more
money and volunteer.
I see an analogy here between
lovers and our relationship with
the Gunks. Some climbers are just
“dating.” They want to show up,
have a good time, and leave. Get
as much as possible out of the
encounter without having to pay or
make any commitments. They may
do harm to the environment—but not
necessarily maliciously, they are just
not aware of the “hurt” that they
cause. It’s all about a self-centered
desire for a good time.
As time goes on and they continue
to climb at the Gunks, it becomes
one of their favorite places to
climb. They’re willing to pay
the tab, and enjoy gazing at the
beauty. However, they aren’t ready
to commit yet. There’s a strong
fondness, but not a sense of
responsibility.
Gradually, they fall in love. They
feel a responsibility towards the
Gunks. They take pleasure in
providing tender loving care to the
land, the environment. They feel
a sense of community with the
others who are part of this climbing
family. They communicate with
the rangers, the landowners, and
talk with the other land users to
understand their impact on this land
they love and try to find solutions on
how they can lessen their impacts
and improve the experience for
all. Whether it be volunteering time
or donating money, or even just
spreading the message to others,
they do what they can to help. They
have fallen in love.
Let us fall in love with
the Gunks and create
a relationship that will
stand the test of time.
GCC NEWS
GCC BUYS NEW RESCUE
LITTER
FOR THE GUNKS
The GCC has raised
$1,100 to purchase a
new titanium rescue
litter for the Mohonk
Preserve. Building on this
success, the GCC is also launching
an ongoing fundraising campaign
to support the Preserve’s rescue
program.
Both photos: © 2004 France Menk
MUA cleanup crew from left to right: Chris Moratz, Jasmine, Ariel & Jannette Pazer, Rob
Mecus, Ajax Greene and Greg Johnson in photo at right.
The GCC fund drive has its roots,
not surprisingly, in a climbing
accident in the Gunks. Long-time
climber Dennis Yonkin took a fall on
High Exposure and was evacuated
by the Mohonk Preserve Rangers.
Soon thereafter, he wanted to help
those who had helped him. He came
to us, and the fund drive was born.
The new litter is made from titanium,
an extremely strong yet lightweight
metal, weighing only 13 pounds. The
weight reduction allows for quicker
approach and victim recovery times.
This isn’t the first time that the
GCC has stepped up to the plate to
promote responsible climbing along
the Ridge. In September 2003, more
than thirty rock climbers descended
on the Mohonk Preserve to clean
chalk off the Mac Wall. Those
interested in contributing to the
climbing rescue program can learn
more here:
http://gunksclimbers.org/
rescuefund.shtml
CAMPING AT THE GUNKS
Rest assured the GCC is following
very closely the ongoing saga of the
multi-use campground area. And
the democratic process works (sort
of), as you can read the response
at http://gunksclimbers.org/
MUA.shtml from the Department
of Environmental Conservation to
our concerns about shutting down
or limiting the number of legal
camping spaces.
Here’s a bit more on the ‘MultiAbuse’ area, courtesy of Chris
Moratz…
GUNKS CLIMBERS’ COALITION
DEC MULTIPLE USE AREA
WORK DAY JULY 31
The work day started promptly at
10 am with Chris and Tai and friend
Ania, also Mark with son, all of the
former staying in the campground
over the weekend. A reporter from
the Poughkeepsie Journal was also
present, took photos and notes for
an article which appeared on August
2nd. Ranger Rob Mecus was present
to guide and assist us with our
mission.
The main work done was again
to maintain existing firepits and
site housekeeping, along with
elimination of firepits on illegal sites
and brushing in of illegal sites.
We found that some of the NO
CAMPING signs had been ripped
down, and we replaced them.
GCC members Jannette Pazer and
Ajax Greene also came to join in
on the project, and member Greg
Johnson worked on the sites for
awhile then to start an erosion
mitigation project on the slope
leading down the hill (with rocks).
The GCC also placed new maps
which member France Menk had
designed to be larger and more
visible and easier to read. These
two maps were placed at the main
parking lot and also the smaller lot
across the road. We hope that these
maps will mitigate the camping in
illegal sites, since a lot of this seems
to stem from lack of awareness and
confusion about which sites are
legal (the signage at the sites may
not be visible to campers arriving
late at night, for example.)
We also prepared a “test site” which
we ringed with rocks to establish
where the boundaries of the site are.
The idea is an experiment, which
as we found only 5 hours later the
campers at the site had removed
most of the rocks and added them
to the fire pit. This obviously was
not the idea, so this particular
experiment was not a success.
Our work was finished by early
afternoon. The reward for the tired
and sweaty workers was a pool
party at the Blue Heron Watch
on Springtown Road, hosted by
residents Chris Cook and Jannette
Pazer! The party went until late in
the evening with lots of great eats,
a bonfire, cool music and mingling
with a large crowd.
The next work day will likely be
toward the end of the season, check
our Web site for details in the next
month or two.
Thanks to all who attended and
made this a very successful outing!
NEW ACCESS FUND REP IS NAMED
© 2004 France Menk
Congratulations to our very own
GCC Chairperson Chris Moratz, who
is now Regional Coordinator for The
Access Fund. The Access Fund, for
those who have been under a rock
and not climbing on one, works
closely with land management
agencies, environmental
organizations, climbing groups,
outdoor businesses and guide
services on conservation projects,
land acquisitions, and climbing
policy. They do this on a national
level, and rely on partnering with
local organizations to work at the
grass-roots level. So Chris, in his
new capacity and for extraordinarily
little pay (read: none), will be
representing our interests here at
the Gunks and in the Northeast. He
is highly dedicated to the cause and
we know he’ll do great. And if he
does great, we all benefit.
on the Undercliff Road
GUNKS
ETHICS
BOULDERING is exploding in
popularity, at the Gunks and
elsewhere. No big surprise here’s
all you need is a pair of shoes,
crash pad and chalk (dreadlocks are
optional). But with the increased
action comes increased impact. In
fact, bouldering shares many of the
same ethical considerations as trad
climbing. Chalk usage and sensitivity
of the land surrounding the rock are
nique, problem solving
and creativity of movement to climb the hardest routes and be on the
leading edge of the free
climbing movement of the
1970’s. This included quite
a few strenuous and daring leads in the Gunks.
His climbing took him all
over the world, including
to the mystical cliffs of the
Elbe sandstone, where he
climbed free on extremely
demanding climbs barefoot and using only knots
for protection. Typical of
his pure climbing style,
the strict sandstone rules
were well suited for him.
His many solo ascents of
difficult routes also were
the subject of many climbers’ tales around the evening campfire.
two that immediately come to mind.
Chalk has been beaten to death in
just about every online climbing
forum, and we’re not about to
change anyone’s mind in this
newsletter. Plain and simple, use
chalk if you want to. But how
about this: use a chalk ball, which
minimizes the amount just to your
fingertips, which is where you really
need it. No need to cake it on.
And please remember bouldering
is concentrated in small areas with
a great deal of ground traffic. This
means thinking of where you toss
the crash pad. We’ve got lots of
local flora and fauna up and down
the ridge, and much of what grows
near the rock is sensitive and easily
trampled. So before you drop the
pad, take a look at what you’re
about to cover. The Access Fund has
some excellent suggestions about
minimizing bouldering impact at
www.accessfund.org/programs/
boulderproject.html
EVENTS
Oct 15
Climbing legend Henry
Barber hosts a slide
show. You do not
want to miss this one.
Mohonk Preserve
Visitors Center, 7pm.
A native New Englander,
the legendary climber
Henry Barber mastered
the art of rock climbing
by spending many hours
studying the movements
of monkeys in the Boston
Zoo. As a result of this
he developed an amazing
style of climbing which
combined mastery of tech-
Due to his legendary boldness, he earned the nickname “Hot Henry.” The
show is to include images
of early ‘70s Gunks climbing, Elbsandstein, Meteora, Britain, and various
other locales around the
world.
Join us for a special evening of Henry presenting
his slides and stories from
a rich life of climbing that
has had an undeniable
impact on the standards
of climbing around the
world.
© 2004 France Menk
“El dedo” (‘the finger’), the Pyrenees, from the Spanish side
MEMBERS’ CORNER
THE HILL ROSE BARE AND BROWN
The hill rose bare and brown
in the sun out of the black
shadows of the snow;
of the snow waiting to melt.
The shadows formed the light upon
the hill rising up into the day into the blue-lit day.
It cast its shadows away
into the far dreams
of the green to come.
In this northern land of early
seasons, we, needing no reason,
hold the season’s expectancy
within us as though we were
a plant hidden, asleep, invisible,
not heeding their dormancy,
brown or black or yet
but a seed under the ground;
though we are not.
Our urgency abounds
with this bursting;
this blossoming;
this warming:
every year issuing
its tireless dawning.
We smell the melting,
warming, earth that sifts
through the vestiges
of winter’s snows.
The smell no parfumerie can match
– can come to know.
And out beyond the mound of
brown that rises up from the
snows of winter; out beyond,
against the horizon, piercing the light
we crave to enter,
are the peaks we climb;
the peaks we embrace;
the peaks we dream in kind
that we lie down in the meadow
to watch.
—France Menk, 2004
THE FOLLOWING PHOTOS:
© 2004 Mike Stanislaw.
Back cover: Mike Donnelly on Twilight
Zone, 5.13/5.7/C2
Susan Sosin on Forbidden Zone, 5.11,
in Lost City. A GCC charter member
and enthusiastic participant to our
entire area’s preservation efforts.