Fall 2006 - Friends of the Boundary Waters Wilderness
Transcription
Fall 2006 - Friends of the Boundary Waters Wilderness
FALL 2006 • VOLUME 29 • ISSUE 4 The Friends’ mission is to protect, preserve and restore the wilderness character of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness and the Quetico-Superior Ecosystem. The organization was founded in 1976. Celebrate 30 Years of Protecting a Quiet Place “The BWCA is a land with great potential for spiritual regeneration. On August 30th, 1976, we published our first newsletter. It was an “The BWCA is the last large and relatively complete example of appeal from the newly formed Friends of the Boundary Waters the northern conifer forest ecosystem in the United States. It is a land Wilderness for help. where Canada Lynx, Pine Marten, Fisher, Moose, Black Bear, Beaver, The newsletter was written entirely by Miron “Bud” Heinselman, Otter, Bald Eagle, Raven, eastern Timber Wolf and other forest a field ecologist who later wrote The Boundary Waters Wilderness animals are present in full complement to the native vegetation. Here Ecosystem, considered to be the model description of that ecosystem in a living biological laboratory the relationship of these animals to by current Friends Board member and University of Minnesota forest their environment can be studied ecologist, Lee Frelich. Lee writes relatively free of man’s influence. about this year’s fire later in this “Logging and road-building issue and Lee attributes much of are destroying the last large our knowledge about fire’s role virgin wilderness in the eastern in the wilderness to Bud’s United States, and motorboat research. and snowmobile use are destroyIn 1976 fire burned through ing the sense of peace and some of the area we know as the solitude in large portions of Boundary Waters Canoe Area the area. Mining remains an Wilderness. But the appeal in our ever-present threat.” first newsletter wasn’t for help to Help arrived, in part because put out the fire. Bud knew that of Bud’s words, which are still fire was good for the ecosystem. true and prophetic today. A bill The appeal was for help – Bud Heinselman designating the 1,098,057 acre to pass a bill in congress that Boundary Waters Canoe Area would create the Boundary as the Boundary Waters Canoe Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Area Wilderness passed on October 14, 1978. One week later The word “wilderness” was critical; it would determine the managePresident Carter signed the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness ment, use, and legal protection of the area. Act into law. The law intended to bring quiet to nearly 75 years of Bud explained what was at stake. “The BWCA offers unique land-use controversy. In a way, it did. opportunities for recreation, wildlife, research, education, and Honorable people still raise our voices in disagreement, even inspiration. It is our only lakeland wilderness – a land where canoeist, between friends. But now we all have this international treasure hiker, snowshoer, and skier can leave the cares of urban life behind and called the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness – a quiet place experience Nature on her own terms – a land of rugged three-centurywhere we all can find peace – and that could make all the difference old pines and jutting glacially-formed cliffs, dotted with a thousand during the next 30 years, if help continues to arrive. There is still pristine island-studded lakes – where the mournful howl of the wolf much to do to keep it quiet. and the haunting laughter of the loon enchant the senses of the visitor. “It is our only lakeland wilderness – a land where canoeist, hiker, snowshoer, and skier can leave the cares of urban life behind and experience Nature on her own terms – a land with great potential for spiritual regeneration.” • Masthead photo: JimBrandenburg.com • Printed on paper using 100% post-consumer waste, processed chlorine free. Dear Friends: On June 22nd we received an e-mail message from one of our members that has increased our resolve to protect and preserve the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. The e-mail was sent by Ryan Goei (Duluth, MN), who wrote: “Dad, I miss the silence.” Grace Ryan Goei in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, August 2005 “My daughter Grace Ryan Goei and I shared one of the most amazing experiences together in the Boundary John Roth Waters on Kawishiwi Lake last summer. Easily the best time ever spent with my daughter. She loved it more than anything she has ever done. She often made us stop paddling the canoe to float and ‘listen to the silence.’ Grace never wept, but upon return from the BWCA, she wept in her bed and begged me to take her back so she could live there. She said sobbing, ‘Dad, I miss the silence.’” “Grace died in an accident when a semi-truck came across the median of I-94 in MI and struck our car on June 9, 2006, almost two weeks ago. In her memory we asked friends and family to make donations to the Friends of the Boundary Waters Wilderness to help you protect and preserve the BWCA for future generations and so that we might have the opportunity to visit and commune with her memory.” Experiences like that give true meaning to our lives. But too often wilderness travelers return after their trips to their normal lives and keep their experiences much to themselves. Wilderness travelers tend to be quiet folk. We savor the experiences, the quiet, and so don’t speak out enough about the value of wilderness and richness it gives our lives. We can’t continue that way. The wilderness, those precious areas of quiet, need our constant and vocal support. We need to tell our friends, our families, the Forest Service, our elected representatives – everyone who will listen – that the wilderness and places where silence can be found must be protected for people like Grace and her father and all others in the future. We can’t be quiet about that. The wilderness needs us to speak out. Since receiving that heartwrenching message, over forty individuals and businesses have sent us donations in Grace’s honor. She was only seven years old. It is to her memory that we dedicate this newsletter and make our steadfast commitment to protect the silence she so loved. Indeed, in a world where noise from motors and human activity is almost everywhere, the preservation of those few remaining areas where one can find quiet is critical. In August I had the opportunity to have a short canoe trip in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness with my son. It, too, was easily the best time I’ve spent with him. While at camp we would often sit for hours without talking. We would just stare across the lake or into the woods, reflecting on life and the beauty of our surroundings. The silence was spectacular. We need to tell our friends, our families, the Forest Service, our elected representatives – everyone who will listen – that the wilderness and places where silence can be found must be protected for people like Grace and her father, and for all others in the future. 02 — • The Cavity Lake Fire and BWCAW Forests By Lee E. Frelich Forest Ecologist, University of Minnesota, Twin Cities, and Board Member, Friends of the Boundary Waters Wilderness Seagull Lake at the end of the Gunflint Trail lies within the rolling pink granite hills of the Saganaga Batholith; the area has shallow rocky soils that easily dry out after a few days without rain and has a long history of large, intense forest fires. The occurrence of fires over the last four centuries has been documented by the late BWCAW forest ecologist Bud Heinselman. His data from fire scars on red, white and jack pine trees, as well as total ages of trees that germinated after fires, shows that parts of the area have been burned in 1595, 1692, 1727, 1747, 1801, 1815, 1854, 1864, 1903, 1910, 1918, 1976, 1995, and 2005 in addition to the prescribed burns of 2002-2004. Although all of these fires did not burn the entire area, we do know that any given location on the ground burned about once every 50-100 years. Thus, this year’s Cavity Lake Fire ignited by lightning on July 14 was no surprise. To put the Cavity Lake Fire in perspective, 2006 is the largest fire year, in terms of total area burned in the BWCAW, since 1910, and the Cavity Lake Fire, at about 50 square miles, is the largest single patch that has burned since 1894. However, if one examines the fire history of the BWCAW over the last several centuries, 2006 is still only a moderately-large fire year. The Cavity Lake Fire is about half the size of the fires of 1692 and 1801 that burned the same area around Seagull Lake, and it has burned only 1/12 the area burned in 1864, the biggest fire year on record in the BWCAW. If we examine the area burned over the last century there is a large deficit in the total amount of fire as compared to the 1600s to 1800s. This was caused by fire suppression, a shift to a climate less conducive to fire, and changes in the landscape surrounding the BWCAW, where many of the large historical fires started before moving into the BWCAW. The Cavity Lake Fire represents 3-4 years worth of fire in the BWCAW, using the 1600-1900 time period as a standard. Pine and birch forest in the BWCAW burn for 20-30 minutes before living tissue under the bark is killed. Also, their foliage is held high above the forest floor, where it is less likely to be consumed or scorched by fire than shorter tree species such as jack pine, balsam fir and black spruce. If some of the old adult red and white pines survive a fire, they can then shed their seeds onto the forest floor over the next 1-2 decades, a period during which brush that would otherwise compete with the new seedlings is less abundant as a result of the fire. Thus, each time a fire occurs a new cohort of seedlings enters the forest, so that red and white pine forests tend to have trees of two or more age classes. What type of future forests will develop in the 50 square miles burned by the Cavity Lake Fire? Because this fire has mostly burned forests that were leveled by the big blowdown of 1999, the cones of most jack pine trees were down on the ground, and many seeds were consumed by the fire rather than merely scorched. This will lead to a Story continues on page 8, The Cavity Lake Fire Why not log and then burn? By Bud Heinselman, from our 1976 newsletter 200 year old red pines felled by 1999 blowdown The BWCAW forest is fire-dependent; it is composed of a number of tree species that require fire to reproduce. The three pines native to the area, jack pine, red pine and white pine all reproduce best after fire. Jack pine has serotinous cones held high in the crown that open when scorched by a fire, shedding millions of seeds on the burned forest floor and regenerating a young even-aged stand of jack pine after a major fire. Red and white pine employ a different strategy—they resist fire by means of thick bark that on older trees can FRIENDS OF THE BOUNDARY WATERS WILDERNESS • FALL 2006 Logging followed by fire has far different ecological effects from fire in the natural standing virgin forest. For example, if red pine, white pine, jack pine or black spruce are cut for timber first, when the slash-covered land is burned over their seeds are destroyed, and it is then necessary to artificially re-seed or replant if these tress are to be regenerated. If this is not done, the area will be taken over by aspen and birch. In nature, jack pine and black spruce seeds are stored in closed or semi-closed cones which open and re-seed the area after the fire’s heat has unsealed their resin coating. Red and white pine are very fire resistant, and seed-trees usually escape the fire to regenerate their kind. When a stand is burned after logging, the nutrients in the mature trees, which would have been recycled by fire, are lost to the system in the timber that is carted off. If we use logging before fire to manage the BWCA, there is no way all the interactions of the natural ecosystem can be duplicated. Although this (logging before fire) type of forestry is proper in a managed forest or tree farm, it is clearly out of place in a wilderness. — 03 Thomas Flint Fund makes a difference to 15 more kids By Caron Gibson, Friends’ staff member where groups plan their own routes; a packing area to plan and pack food and supplies; and a canoe area that is used for repairs as well as storage. Most of the canoes used are wood-canvas canoes, which can weigh up to 85 lbs. After using a wood-canvas canoe, a Kevlar one feels like a feather, but the Kevlar canoe isn’t often used due to its vulnerability to rocks. There are many aspects to running a YMCA camp year round and Paul seems to come by it naturally. After dinner and songs of celebration (“Lean on Me” and “Let it Be”) the SAYLI groups headed to their lodging to create skits to present at the campfire. The boys’ skit focused on the numerous bugs that were bugging them yet seemed invisible to their guide and Sovatha. The girls focused on camping terminology and language barriers. Their guide spoke to them in Spanish, and when they told her they did not understand Spanish she in turn explained she did not understand their native SAYLI kids in a Voyageur canoe (not used on their trip) with Sovatha in the stern. Hmong language. The compromise was to speak On June 28th I had the pleasure of being a part of the Welcome English. Examples of ambiguous terms at camp were “tarp,” which Back celebration at YMCA Camp Menogyn, on Hungry Jack Lake off was interpreted as “tart” and “stakes” as “Cub food steaks?” They the Gunflint Trail. Fifteen kids from the Southeastern Asian Youth also could not discern why they just didn’t iodine the whole lake to Leadership Initiative had just returned from a wilderness canoe trip purify water rather than individual water bottles. with their leader/advocate Sovatha Oum. Sovatha is a Board member I asked the two groups to share the best and worst of their of Friends of the Boundary Waters Wilderness and is also the experiences in the BWCAW. Portages and lunch were chosen as the Multicultural Program Education Specialist at the Amherst H. Wilder best; mosquitoes, hands down, were the worst. Everyone felt that they Foundation, St. Paul, MN, where he directs the Southeast Asian had grown from the wilderness adventure, mainly from the fact that Youth Leadership Initiative (SAYLI). the hands-on learning taught them they could be self-sufficient Since 2002, these wilderness canoe trips have been sponsored by mentally as well as physically. Many had felt that they might not be the Thomas Flint Fund, in honor of the deceased son of one of capable of meeting the challenge of venturing into the unknown with our founding Board members. Friends of the Boundary Waters unfamiliar people. Each found their true potential as well as areas in Wilderness maintains the Thomas Flint Fund, which provides some of which they needed to improve. the necessary financial support for economically disadvantaged inner All felt the experience broadened their perspective of life and city youth, such as the kids from SAYLI, to experience the Boundary helped them to empathize with what their parents went through Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. in war torn Laos. The wilderness taught them strength, respect, The SAYLI group of eight young women and seven young responsibility and team work. They learned that the unknown can be men with whom I met were chosen by their peers to experience a their ally, not their enemy. Throughout the adventure the groups wilderness adventure in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness always heeded the SAYLI golden rule: “The brother’s keeper takes (BWCAW). These kids had only known each other for a year when care of each other.” they took the bus trip to Camp Menogyn. Yet, by the time I arrived This generation will be inheriting the national treasures we leave from the cities for their last night at the YMCA camp, they looked them. They need to experience the Boundary Waters Canoe Area like they had been friends forever. Wilderness in order to see why we need to protect, preserve and The girls had paddled a loop originating from Seagull Lake (site of restore their heritage for future generations. The SAYLI program this year’s fire two weeks later), and the boys began at Missing Links ended on June 30, 2006 and will now be multi-cultural so that it Lake and ended at Seagull Lake. Both groups traveled for five days. includes inner city kids of African American, Asian, Caucasian and Once the two groups had returned to Camp Menogyn, they took a sauna Hispanic descent. (I tried teaching them the pronunciation as "saw ~ nah"), followed by a Due to a shift in priorities from within the Wilder Foundation, the jump in the lake and then off to shower for the first time in a few days. coordinating body for the Thomas Flint Fund trips, there will be less One of the boys had a prosthetic, yet that did not deter him. With the funding for these kinds of trips in the future. Therefore, Friends of the challenges he has already faced in life, the trip to the BWCAW is only Boundary Waters Wilderness wants to encourage its members to give one of many goals he has planned to fulfill. generously to the Thomas Flint Fund so that these wilderness trips Paul Danicic, Camp Menogyn’s Director, gave me a tour of the may continue for kids who wouldn’t have the chance for adventure facilities while the group was occupied with acclimating back to and development without this program. semi-civilization. There is a dining hall with great cooks; a map room • 04 — How we make a difference Six Minnesota High School Students Win Friends’ Essay Contest The first ever Friends of the Boundary Waters Wilderness Minnesota state wide essay contest, Living for the Wild, based on a curriculum designed to encourage students to explore their connections between everyday outdoor places and more distant wild, natural places, produced six winners. Each winner received a $500 U.S. Savings Bond. Four year ago, Friends’ Education Committee asked itself why the majority of Americans feel a strong connection to distant wild lands even if they never visit such places as the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Yellowstone, Everglades, or the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Most of us have never been to a wilderness area, many will never go. Yet we care deeply about wilderness. Why do we care? What is this mysterious connection we have to wild, natural places? Can we express it? What would happen if we asked high school students to write about their connection? Those were our questions as we developed Living for the Wild. During the spring and summer of 2005, Living for the Wild was promoted throughout Minnesota high schools and subsequently sent to 244 teachers, grades 9 thru 12, who requested it for the 2005-2006 school year. The curriculum prepared students to write their essays, and it included all necessary background materials for teachers. Participating teachers nominated the top two essays per class for Friends to judge, two winners per grade. Nominated essays were based on the author’s: 1. writing skill; 2. originality; and 3. ability to make the connection between everyday outdoor places and more distant wild and natural places. We received 50 essays from students in grades 9 thru 12. During two rounds of judging six winners were chosen – two each from grades 9, 10, and 12. Winners were contacted in late May 2006. Winners were Rorie Arnold, grade 9, Meghan Oakes, grade 9, whose essay “Mistfire Mornings” is included on the next page of this newsletter, and Rachel Roe, grade 10, all from Harbor City International School in Duluth; Amanda John, grade 10, from Eden Prairie High School; Nat Shepard, grade 12, from Central High in Saint Paul; and Jeff Hughes, grade 12, from Andover High, whose essay “I am Out to Sea” is included on this page of this newsletter. All winning essays can be found on our website. Friends hopes Living for the Wild will become a long-term curriculum and tool for helping students understand and express their connections to wilderness. In that way, respect for America’s wilderness will be strengthened for generations to come. The Larson Foundation of West Hartford, CT, and Friends of the Boundary Waters Wilderness sponsored Living for the Wild. • Early morning mist and breakfast on the rocks in the BWCAW FRIENDS OF THE BOUNDARY WATERS WILDERNESS • FALL 2006 The story below, by distinguished anthropologist Loren Eiseley, reminds us how we make a difference – one person at a time. The Star Thrower Once upon a time, there was a wise man who used to go to the ocean to walk on the beach before he began his work each day. One day, as he was walking along the shore, he looked down the beach and saw a human figure moving like a dancer. As he got closer, he noticed that the figure was a young man, and that what he was doing was not dancing but reaching down to the sand, picking up small objects, and throwing them into the ocean. He came closer and called out "Good morning! May I ask what it is that you are doing?" The young man paused, looked up, and replied “Throwing starfish into the ocean.” “I must ask, then, why are you throwing starfish into the ocean?” And the young man replied, “The sun is up and the tide is going out. If I don't throw them in, they'll die.” Upon hearing this, the wise man commented, “But, young man, do you not realize that there are miles and miles of beach and there are starfish all along every mile? You can't possibly make a difference!” At this, the young man bent down, picked up another starfish, and threw it into the ocean. As it met the water, he said, “It made a difference for that one.” • I Am Out to Sea By Jeff Hughes, Andover High School, 12th Grade Living for the Wild essay winner. I awake with the sun. The morning dew allows me to slip my canoe noiselessly towards the shoreline. I slip my canoe into the water; it causes the glassy surface to ripple, as I paddle away from the world. An eagle lazily stretches its wings, soaring to welcome the morning. A kingfisher swoops to the surface, retrieving his breakfast. I paddle, within five minutes everything in the world has been forgotten. I am now a mere part of the lake I am so fond of. The fish jump and swirl, I cast. The line flies purposefully, spraying a cool stream of water on my hands. The fish give chase to my lure, following and darting away. It is a dance we have played out many times. Eventually it bites, I spend minutes relishing the fight, retrieving my prize, oniy to let her go. As she swims away, I head home. We will meet again, and we shall play our parts in this endless chain. My lake is my backyard, it has always been there for me, and always will be. The ducks and the fish, the plants, all are perfectly intertwined; all are at peace with themselves. I can find peace in these waters, every stress and pressure of life melts away as I coast aimlessly about. I am two minutes from my house, but I am a million miles to sea. It is this placid region, only moments from my home, where I can briefly enjoy the solitude I lack in the city where I live. This lake, a seemingly pointless puddle in the Minnesota scenery is where I am reminded of the wilderness. Without this minute escape from civilization, I put nature out of my mind. I need these waters to gently awaken my senses to the true wilderness areas around. Only a handful of true wilderness areas remain, they are as important as any piece of land. If we as humans are to remain sane, and true to this earth, then we need our everyday wild place to keep thoughts of the true untamed wilderness fresh in our minds. If we lose our conscious thoughts about the wilderness, then we lose the wilderness itself. • — 05 Mistfire Mornings What does a Wilderness Specialist do? By Meghan Oakes, Harbor City International School, 9th Grade Living for the Wild essay winner By Duane Lula Recreation and Wilderness Project Manager, U.S. Forest Service Bleary eyed and slightly flustered, I stumble from my home, offbalanced by a large, overstuffed backpack precariously perched on one shoulder. I look like a three legged tortoise as I make my way to my bus stop. One icy block later I am at my stop, standing in the stomped-out place where I stood yesterday and the day before. This is the place where I spend my mornings, where I wake up and clear the rotting fuzzies from my thoughts. This is the place where my mind and the beauty of the new morning can take me to a primeval world of untamed glory and wild things. This morning’s sun has just risen above the floating mist on the lake I can see from my station through the leafless trees. A frozen strand of hair rudely pokes me in the eye as the wind stirs through the trees across the black river road that lies in front of me. Watching over my shoulder a towering pine stands guard, its tall peak much higher than the other surrounding pines whose tops have been cut off due to the power lines that run down the street and provide perches for the same four black birds every morning. The black river road parts in front of me. It eddies and swirls smoothly into a silver stream that curves behind me towards a row of silent houses, and its other fork becomes rough gravel, dusty in the warm seasons. Just before the river roughens into gravel the row of stunted pines ends abruptly, making way for a hidden road that slopes down into what seems to be a grove. The occasional truck rumbles past, disturbing my peace with its growling and smog. The sun is alight on the mist now, creating the illusion of a bursting star upon the hidden water, a brilliant conflagration that captures, for a moment, the glory of morning. I inhale; a wave of peace overwhelms me. I am brought back to all the magnificent forests that I have seen in nature programs, read about in books, captured in my mind: places of untamed perfection. The clumsy start to my day is always followed by a display of nature’s splendor and beauty. There, in my stomped-out hole, I am reminded. A bus stop is not the most obvious place to become connected with the wild places of the world, but in my little stomped-out perch, all it takes is one of those mistfire sunrises to be reminded of the grandeur of the long past and far-off greater wild. In the Superior National Forest, the Forest Service manages many different natural resources, and employs wildlife biologists, foresters, geologists, hydrologists, and a host of other resource specialists. Because the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) is such a large and important part of the Superior National Forest, the Forest Service has a large staff dedicated to managing the wilderness. While many people deal with specific tasks needed to manage the wilderness, there is one person who coordinates and keeps an eye on the entire wilderness and its management. That person is Wilderness Specialist, Ann Schwaller, who works in the Superior National Forest Supervisor’s office in Duluth, Minnesota. Ann has been working in Minnesota for about a year and a half. She came to the Boundary Waters with an extensive background in wilderness management, having worked on the Salmo-Priest Wilderness in Washington, the Anaconda-Pintler in Montana, Grand Canyon in Arizona, the LaGarita and Weminuche in Colorado, and the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness in Idaho. Ann has undergraduate degrees in photojournalism and natural resources and conservation, and a Master’s degree in wilderness and recreation management. With a wilderness as large, complex and sometimes controversial as the BWCAW, there is no typical day in the life of a Wilderness Specialist. The BWCAW has 200,000 visitors annually. Making sure that all of those visitors can get a reservation, get correct visitor information, understand wilderness rules and ethics, collect their permit, find a campsite each day, and experience the unique character of the BWCAW is all part of Ann’s job. An even more important task is ensuring the protection of the wilderness as an ecosystem. • Geologically the BWCAW occupies the lower portion of the Canadian Shield. It is located on the remains of the ancient Laurentian Mountains, some of the oldest rock in North America. The Laurentian Divide separates two major drainage basins in the BWCAW: the Hudson Bay and the Great Lakes. About 90% of the BWCAW lies with in the Hudson Bay basin and the remaining 10% flows into the Great Lakes. The BWCAW contains the highest point in Minnesota: Eagle Mountain (2,301 feet). Leave A Legacy Include Friends In Your Estate Plans If you or your advisor would like information on how to name Friends of the Boundary Waters Wilderness as a beneficiary of your estate or about the benefits of a planned gift, please call 612-332-9630 or email the Friends at info@friends-bwca.org. Two good resources for general information on planned giving are: Minnesota Tool Kit for Giving at: www.minnesotagiving.org and Leave a Legacy Minnesota at: www.leavealegacyminnesota.org. • 06 — Excerpts from a day in the life of a Wilderness Specialist: • Developing wilderness and visitor management plans. • Coordinating and approving wilderness research applications. • Providing leadership in wilderness training for Forest Service employees. • Developing and implement wilderness visitor education, such as the Leave No Trace video that was cooperatively developed with several groups, including the Friends. • Developing partnerships with other governments, wilderness groups and other interest groups to further wilderness protection and management. • Providing wilderness expertise and advice to District Rangers and their field staff. • Developing and implementing a program to achieve the 10 Year Wilderness Challenge. • Finding answers to the tough technical and philosophical questions that visitors sometimes ask. Ten percent of all visitors to our nation's National Wilderness Preservation System come to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, though it represents just 1% of the 104 million protected acres among 630 places in 44 states. It is the only large lake-land wilderness in the country. Visitor studies indicate the top motives for visiting the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness are nature appreciation, personal development, escape/solitude, companionship, adventure, and fishing. Fortunately for all visitors, Wilderness Specialist Ann Schwaller is helping the Forest Service make sure that all who come will continue find these qualities in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. • Issues Update Echo Trail Logging South Fowl Lake Snowmobile Trail As part of the General Management Plan, the Forest Service South Fowl Lake is on the farthest eastern end of the wilderness proposes logging along the Echo Trail west of Ely in some places boundary separating the U.S. from Canada. Two miles directly west of adjacent to the wilderness. Friends, along with other groups, South Fowl Lake is McFarland Lake. Twenty private homes surround commented on the draft Environmental Impact Statement published McFarland. Between the two lakes is a thumb-shaped section of this spring. Today we are waiting to read the Forest Service’s final wilderness. In the years since the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Environmental Impact Statement. Friends is doing all it can to work Wilderness Act of 1978 established the wilderness boundary and use with the Forest Service to find a solution to proposed logging in restrictions, snowmobilers have illegally driven on a preexisting roadless areas along the Echo Trail. trail between McFarland and South Fowl lakes through that thumb-shaped section of wilderness. Last year the Forest Service Mining asked for public input to decide whether to build a new trail or widen Currently there are at least five proposed mining operations south an existing trail, both outside the wilderness, to access South Fowl and west of the wilderness. Questions being asked by environmental Lake. After much debate from all sides, this spring the Forest Service organizations are How much heavy industry is too much for announced it would build the new trail along a high ridge above Royle Northeastern Minnesota's natuLake and within a few hundred ral resources? And what might feet of the wilderness. It is the the combined effects be on the shortest route between region's air and water quality, McFarland and South Fowl wetlands, wildlife and forests if Lakes. Friends argued for “The laws that apply to the Boundary Waters, the manage- all or some of the projects widening an existing trail one mile south of the proposed ment system that administers it, the map boundaries defining advance? Friends is a part of a coalition of groups that will new trail for a variety of it, and the emotions surrounding it are all very complex. insure these questions are debatenvironmental reasons – chiefly, “The lakes, flora, and fauna of the Boundary Waters have ed satisfactorily while permitpreserving quiet in the wilderness. their own set of complex laws to live by. Unwritten and ting processes work through the As the issue stands today, the Izaak Walton League and other unspoken, their laws have prevailed for thousands of years Minnesota D e p a r t m e n t o f Natural Resources, Minnesota groups have filed suit to prevent and have maintained a place of incredible beauty, variety, Pollution Control Agency, Forest the implementation of the Forest and stability. Service and Corps of Engineers. Service’s plan. “The Boundary Waters is a clear reminder of how little we We will require these public General Management know about the intricate relationships of the natural world. agencies to say "NO" to any and all proposals if the most stringent Plan for Superior Because much of the Boundary Waters is still a complete controls and guarantees are not National Forest natural ecosystem, it is a rare laboratory in which man can firmly in place. We will help our By law the General members and the public-at-large study those relationships. Management Plan for the “There will never be a law so perfect and immutable that learn about the consumer Superior National Forest must demand for the minerals, so as the Boundary Waters can be considered "saved" forever. But consumers we can find ways to be revised at least every 15 years. The most recent 2004 revision good protective laws and informed citizens can do the job.” reduce the demand, perhaps was initiated by the Forest even eliminate the demand. – By Bud Heinselman Service in 1997. In conjunction Condensed from Bud’s 1976 newsletter article “In Conclusion” with the revision, in 2003 the Please see Issues Updates Forest Service began preparing on our website for ongoing a draft Environmental Impact updates of all issues that Statement (EIS). A broad affect the Boundary Waters coalition of environmental Canoe Area Wilderness. groups, including Friends, commented on the EIS. There was no provision for keeping logging out of roadless areas identified by Friends and President Clinton’s Roadless Area Conservation Rule. The Rule listed 62,000 acres of inventoried roadless areas, most of which are adjacent to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Because of its unique characteristics the BWCAW was Overriding our objections, the Forest Service approved the Plan in included in a list of the 50 greatest places to visit in a lifetime put July 2004. In November 2005, a group of plaintiffs, including Friends, together by the National Geographic Society in 1999. The NGS filed an Administrative Appeal of the Forest Service’s approval of the identified destinations that "no curious traveler should miss" and Plan. In August 2005, our appeal was rejected. On August 15th, 2006, the BWCAW was included alongside places such Antarctica, a coalition of plaintiffs, including Friends, filed a lawsuit requiring the the Amazon, the Grand Canyon, the Giza pyramids, the Great Forest Service to improve the Plan by, for example, protecting the Wall of China and the Taj Mahal. wilderness from the noise of logging on adjacent roadless areas. • FRIENDS OF THE BOUNDARY WATERS WILDERNESS • FALL 2006 — 07 The Cavity Lake Fire Story continued from page 3. lower proportion of jack pine in the future forest than there was historically. There are a number of groves of red and white pine near lakeshores that survived the big blowdown, and if they also survive the Cavity Lake Fire (it is too early to tell as I write this article) they will be able to shed their seeds up to 1/4 mile in every direction, creating future stands of those species. Based on my experience with the blowdown and the prescribed burns of 2002-2003, paper birch will likely be the big winner within the Cavity Lake Fire. This is because paper birch is one of the species most resistant to windthrow. Adult seed-bearing trees are prolific seed producers. Their seeds can blow for miles on the wind, perhaps even arriving from outside the burned area, and its seedlings do very well on charcoal created by fires. Thus, as a forest ecologist, I predict that a birch forest, with some pines, and a few other conifers that also have a surviving seed source along lakeshores (balsam fir, black spruce, white cedar) will predominate in the area. The pines have really taken a hit in the BWCAW over the last century due to logging before the area was designated as wilderness, the lack of fire for most of the 20th Century, and the big blowdown. The chances for recovery of pines are modest in the Cavity Lake Fire, but they have no chance at all without fire. The unburned parts of the blowdown are densely stocked with thickets of hazel, dogwood, and saplings of balsam fir that are preventing reproduction of the pines. There will also be more area of exposed rock on hilltops, because the soil in those areas consisted of moss which creeps out from the surrounding forest in the absence of fire, but was burned away by the fire. It is a natural state of things for hilltops on the Canadian Shield to fluctuate back and forth from moss cover to bare rock in response to Staff: Caron Gibson John Roth Randolph Tatum Wever Weed Board of Directors: Scott Anderegg Doug Anderson Gustave Axelson Paul Aslanian Jeff Evans Lee Frelich Peter Jung Darrell Knuffke Lynn MacLean Mike Matz Jon Nelson Sovatha Oum Mary Probst Carolyn Sampson Steve Snyder Kris Wegerson Honorary Board Members: Richard Flint Herb Johnson Jon Nelson Becky Rom Minnesota Environmental Fund Helps Protect the BWCAW If your company does not have MEF as a giving option, please contact Friends at 612-332-9630. fires. Another feature of interest after boreal forest fires is a native species of geranium, Bicknell’s Geranium Bicknell’s Geranium, the seeds of which have been buried in the soil since the last fire. When fire burns off the duff, these seeds are exposed to sunlight and they germinate in vast numbers, covering the forest floor with geranium plants and their bright pink to magenta flowers. On Threemile Island in Seagull Lake, these geraniums covered the landscape after the prescribed burn of 2002, even in areas where the last fire was in 1801 or 1864, so that the seeds were up to 200 years old. The Cavity Lake Fire is the biggest fire in a century in the BWCAW. It will allow us to see the type of post-fire landscape that was common in the days of the Voyageurs. It has also initiated 50 square miles of new forest and will afford a major opportunity for research into how fires impact forest growth and development. As a forest ecologist at a major university, I will be involved with this research for the foreseeable future. My research program in the Seagull Lake area began in 1991 with the help of Bud Heinselman, and started out as an examination of structure and function of old growth pine forests. Those old growth forests were leveled by the 1999 blowdown, and we established more than 700 plots to monitor forest response to the blowdown. Those plots were burned by the Cavity Lake Fire on July 16 and 17, and have now become the best pre-fire data set anyone could possibly ask for. Once again Mother Nature has provided a major disturbance and changed the look of the landscape and the direction of our research program. 401 N. Third Street, Suite 290 Minneapolis, MN 55401-1475 P: 612.332.9630 friends-bwca.org The Friends of the Boundary Waters newsletter is printed on paper using 100% post-consumer waste, processed chlorine free. Address Service Requested • Non-Profit Organization U.S. Postage Paid Minneapolis, MN Permit No. 4068