Jan Szczepanik Józef Bem Churches Monuments Museums

INTRODUCING TARNÓW
HISTORY
SIGHTSEEING
First mentioned in a document dated 1124, Tarnów was granted city rights by
King Władysław Łokietek in 1330 - an event celebrated by a fine monument of
the King on ul. Wałowa before the stairs leading up to Plac Katedralny. It was at
this time that the medieval layout the city retains to this day was created, with
the market square and Town Hall at its centre.
A privately owned city until 1787, Tarnów’s greatest period of growth came under
the illustrious, avant-garde nobleman Jan Tarnowski during the 16th century
when the Old Town was largely reconstructed in the manner that today earns
it the accolade of being Poland’s ‘Pearl of the Renaissance.’ The Tarnowski
clan expired without an heir in 1567 and the city was later incorporated into the
Austrian-Hungarian Empire during the era of Polish partitions. Tarnów’s citizens
were quick to join the Polish legions when WWI broke out and the region saw many
battles between the Russian and Austro-Hungarian armies, resulting in a trail of
WWI memorial sites and cemeteries in the city’s vicinity.
In October 1918 Tarnów gained notoriety when it became the first Polish city to
reclaim independence after 146 years of occupation, and again on August 28th,
1939 when German terrorists detonated an explosive in the city’s train station
killing 20 people, injuring 32, and leading some historians to claim that WWII
officially started here in Tarnów. The bombs would start falling from the sky six
days later and by September 7th the Nazis had captured the city.
Eighty kilometres east of Kraków near the crossroads of two ancient trade routes
lies the charming and hospitable city of Tarnów. Małopolska’s second city by
size, Tarnów is absolutely dwarfed by Kraków but features many of the same
cultural and architectural charms without the crushing crowds, inflated prices
and occasional feelings of herd mentality that unfortunately come along with
a tourist market the size of Kraków’s. On the contrary, Tarnów offers tourists
the comforts of a small town with a long history and the cultural intrigue and
activities of a much bigger city. In addition to a well-preserved medieval Old
Town - which includes a glorious Cathedral, a cute market square and Town Hall,
and many pedestrian avenues - in Tarnów visitors will discover several unique
and worthwhile museums, wooden churches, historic cemeteries, castle ruins
and a scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic and historical monuments
at every turn. Those with a special interest in Jewish history should be extra
motivated to visit Tarnów due to its deep Jewish heritage, many traces of which
are still in evidence today in the city’s evocative Jewish district and large Jewish
Cemetery. While the town’s nightlife may not have the sizzle of Kraków, there
are still plenty of bars, cafes and restaurants, the best of which we list here,
where you’ll find it easy to meet friendly local folks who are proud of their city and
eager to present a good impression to foreigners. All told it’s enough to easily
warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as in addition to serving as a
quiet, even romantic retreat from Kraków, Tarnów also makes a superb base for
exploring the wealth of other nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at
Dębno, the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia. You’ll find more
information on Tarnów and all the surrounding area has to offer on our website,
but make sure you also pay a visit to the fine folks at the Tourist Information
Office when you arrive for more insights.
Tourist Information
Tourist Information Centre A-6, Pl. Dworcowy 4, tel. (+48)
600 55 94 95, www.tarnow.travel. A good first point of contact if
arriving by train, here you can get yourself a free map and other helpful info. There’s also a computer on which you can browse the web for
free. Q Open 08:30-13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Closing times may vary
depending on demand.
Tourist Information Centre D-4, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 14 688 90
The first Jews settled in Tarnów in the mid-15th century and by 1939 their numbers
had reached 25,000 - nearly half the city’s total population. On June 14th 1940,
728 Tarnów residents (mostly Poles, in fact) became the first victims of Auschwitz;
of 40,000 Jews crammed into Tarnów’s ghetto, over 10,000 were executed and
the rest deported to the Bełżec death camp. Today Tarnów’s Jewish heritage
remains through several historical monuments and sites in and around the former
ghetto, though no active Jewish community has survived.
Tarnów was a stronghold of resistance during Nazi occupation, before eventual
‘liberation’ into the communist regime on January 17, 1945. The city developed
rapidly in the postwar period as the monstrous soviet-era residential blocks in the
north-east part of the city became home to over one-third of its 100,000 population in the mid-70s. The rise in the prices of meat in July 1980 inspired a series of
strikes in Tarnów predating the Gdansk shipyard strikes that would eventually lead
to the communist regime’s collapse by over a month. Since Poland’s ascension
to the EU in 2004, Tarnów has enjoyed the revitalisation of its Old Town and is
gaining an increasing reputation as a noteworthy tourist destination.
90, www.tarnow.travel. One of the most helpful offices in all of PL, make
this your first port of call on arrival. Here you’ll find a wide range of free
information on Tarnów and the surrounding region, free internet (browse
away), a few souvenirs, bicycle rental and there’s even accommodation
available upstairs. If you’re interested in a gadget-led tour, there are nine
different mp3 audio tours of the main sights for hire, in addition to a GPS
guide called Navigo City Tour. The friendly, knowledgeable and enthusiastic
English-speaking staff, can give you a better idea of what that is, plus
whatever information or advice you can’t find in this guide, so don’t be
shy.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. From October open
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the
16th century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off with an idiosyncratic
30m tower from which a bugler plays Tarnów’s ‘hejnał’ - a short traditional
melody - every day at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Cracovian cousin,
the Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a good investigation, and
includes a fairly well preserved Jewish quarter to the east, one remaining
defensive tower and a pleasant pedestrian street, hugging its northern edge
and featuring several interesting buildings as well as a number of monuments.
In the spring and summer the Rynek comes to life with tables and chairs from
the multitude of cafes and bars (and surprisingly few restaurants) lining it and
has a warm and welcoming appeal.
LOCAL HEROES
FURTHER AFIELD
Jan Szczepanik
Jan Szczepanik, aka ‘the Polish Edison’, was born of peasant stock on April 13, 1872 in the small village of Rudniki
(now in Ukraine just on the other side of the border from
Przemysł, PL). An extraordinary man with an extraordinary
moustache and a wild head of hair, Szczepanik was your
classic troubled genius, dropping out of high school despite having a brain the size of a planet. Starting his adult
life as an unassuming teacher, the young Szczepanik took
an interest in the primitive weaving technology of the day, and
after a series of innovations, lucky breaks and accolades he was
able to abandon his academic life in 1896 and focus all his time and energy on
his passion for collecting patents, of which he possessed several hundred for
the 50-some inventions to his credit over the course of his career. The visionary
pioneer of motion pictures, colour television, colour photography, early flying
machines, submarines, the wireless telegraph and a whole host of other things
we take for granted today, moved his workshop from Vienna to Tarnów after
falling in love with Wanda Dzikowski, the daughter of a Tarnów doctor, whom he
married in Tarnów Cathedral in 1902. Managing to combine a life that involved
working for several of the world’s top companies while immersing himself in his
own private work and fathering no less than five children, Tarnów’s adopted
genius was feted by royalty (among his many achievements, Szczepanik invented the bullet-proof jacket in 1901 at the personal request of Spain’s King
Alfonso XIII, whose life it later saved from an assassination attempt) and was
a personal friend of Mark Twain, who visited and wrote about him in Vienna
during the early days of his career. The sadly overlooked inventor fell seriously
ill in 1925, and died of liver cancer in his adopted hometown on April 18, 1926.
On the 80th anniversary of Jan Szczepanik’s funeral on April 20, 2006, a rather
charming bust of the great man was unveiled in Tarnów on Pl. Sienkiewicza (D-3),
directly north of the Old Town near the central post office. Recently, the square has
been completely renovated with a new two-level fountain, landscaped walkways
and new benches. Szczepanik has been given better exposure than ever before
with his monument prominently displayed before a new installation with information
and photos of his life and inventions, as well as a long curving wall that includes
a large mirrored bust of his iconic head, his signature and some important dates
from his career. Make a detour in your wanderings to give it a look.
Bochnia Mine (Kopalnia Soli Bochnia) ul. Campi 15, Bochnia, tel. (+48)
14 615 36 36, www.kopalniasoli.pl.
The oldest industrial site in Europe and
Poland’s most ancient salt mine, Bochnia,
some 45km west of Tarnów, has been in
continuous operation since 1248. Though
less celebrated than the region’s Wieliczka
mine, a recent influx of investment has made
Bochnia more worthwhile than ever. Guided
Courtesy of Bochnia Mine tours are obligatory and despite regular
tour times in Polish (38/28zł), unfortunately
English-speakers must arrange ahead for an English-speaking guide at a cost
of 125zł per group.
The pride of Bochnia is the new ‘Underground Multimedia Exposition,’ during
which local tour guides are assisted in telling the mine’s story by ‘holoscreen’
characters of Polish kings, Genoese merchants and ghostly monks. Through
state of the art technology, guests experience the challenges miners faced
underground and the development of mining techniques from the Middle Ages
to the present day. The highlight for some, however, may be the short train ride
at 200m underground. The 2.5-hour tour through various exhibition tunnels,
geological chambers and chapels with magnificent sculptures concludes with
30 minutes in the Ważyn Chamber, whose therapeutic microclimate is used
as a health and recreation centre, and which hosts a number of attractions
including a 140m slide, sports field, children’s playground, discotheque, souvenir
shop and the world’s deepest underground restaurant. With so much to do,
guests can extend their stay by spending the night in one of the underground
hotel rooms; overnight stays, or ‘Inhalation holidays’ as they’re called by some,
also include the opportunity to take a 120m-long boat ride through the mine’s
original flooded tunnel.
Getting to Bochnia from Tarnów takes an hour or less by car via the A4 highway.
Trains run frequently during the day, with the possibility of catching a return as late
as midnight. The journey costs 9.50zł and takes 35-50mins depending on your
train. From Bochnia train station it’s about a 20min walk to the entrance of the
mine on ul. Campi: head right out of the station down ul. Solidarności, staying on
this road the entire time as it turns into ul. Ofiar Katynia and ul. Pileckiego, before
making a right onto ul. Campi at the mine. The camp is also about 20mins on
foot from the Bochnia market square, just off of which at ul. Solna 2 is the town’s
Tarnów’s greatest son was without doubt the swashbuck- welcome centre where you can pick up maps and other info.
ling hero of Poland, Hungary and Turkey - Józef Bem - who
D ę b n o C a s t l e (Z a m e k w
was born in the city on March 14, 1794 in what was then
part of Hungarian Galicia. After receiving a first class
Dębnie) Dębno 189, tel. (+48)
military education in nearby Kraków, the young, diminutive
1 4 665 80 35, w w w.muzeum.
and famously courageous Bem fought in many notable
tarnow.pl. Located a mere 21km
battles, including the Russian campaign of 1812, earnwest of Tarnów on the major A4/E40
ing the Cross of the Legion of Honour during the bloody
international east-west highway, Dębno
defence of Danzig (Gdańsk) only a year later. As a teacher at
Castle is an easy and worthwhile detour
a Russian military college he spent some time testing missiles
for anyone travelling between Kraków
before getting himself thoroughly mixed up in a conspiracy to restore Polish
(63km away) and Tarnów. This lateindependence, an act that almost cost him a year in jail. After resigning his
Gothic knight’s residence was built
commission in his late 20s, Bem, who is widely acclaimed as one of the greatbetween 1470 and 1480 by Jakub
est Polish and Hungarian generals of all time, lived a progressively eccentric
Dębiński, the Kasztelan of Kraków.
and romantic life, earning his Polish credentials from the part he played in At that time, the emphasis was beginning to shift from protection to prestige,
the failed 1830-1831 Polish uprisings against tsarist rule and, after a failed as indicated by the beautiful brick and stone exterior enhanced by towers with
assassination attempt by the Russians in Portugal, acquiring the status of lovely bay window trusses and door and window frames embellished with organic,
Hungarian national hero after fighting heroically in the 1848 uprising in Vienna. geometric and heraldic motifs. Though remodelled several times as it passed
Via skirmishes in Transylvania and a victory over the Austrian general Anton through the centuries and the hands of several Polish noble families, the castle
Freiherr von Puchner in 1849, Bem was seriously wounded at the Battle of at Dębno has maintained its original appearance of four two-storey wings conSegesvár, a crushing defeat that forced him into exile in the Ottoman Empire. nected by wooden interior arcades. At one time surrounded by a moat, today a
To facilitate a career in the Turkish army, Bem converted to Islam, changed wooden bridge still leads you through the Baroque-era portal into the cobbled
his name to Yusuf Pasha and served as the governor of the city of Aleppo in rectangular courtyard with a well at its centre. Since 1976 the castle has been
what’s now Syria. In his final act of bravery, Bem helped save Aleppo’s Christian home to a branch of the Tarnów Regional Museum - The Museum of Antique
population from being massacred by the Muslims before succumbing to a fever Interiors - and its sumptuous displays of historic period furniture and domestic
which took his life on December 10, 1850.
items, paintings, weaponry and religious objects.
In 1929, Bem’s remains were brought back to Tarnów, and the city has since
become a place of pilgrimage for both Poles and Hungarians. Józef Bem’s If you don’t have a car, you can get there by catching a bus, which run about twice
ashes lie in a grand Mausoleum in the middle of a lake at the far northern end an hour from the ‘Tarnów ul. Sikorskiego - Huta’ stop outside the Świt shopping
of Strzelecki Park (D-2), and features inscriptions in Polish, Hungarian and centre (B-5). The journey costs 4zł, takes 30-35mins and drops you off right in
Ottoman Turkish. A special Józef Bem Trail can be followed in Tarnów, which Dębno within walking distance of the castle. Q Admissions limited to once an
takes in his Mausoleum, the house in which he was allegedly born (Pl. Gen. J. hour on the hour from 09:00 - 15:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 14:00; closed Mon. From
Bema 8, D-5), his handsome monument on the eastern edge of the Old Town November, same hours; closed Mon, Sat. From December, open Tues to Fri only,
at ul. Walowa (E-4) and more. For more info visit Tourist Information.
09:00 - 15:00. Admission 8/4zł, weekends 12/6zł.
Józef Bem
Tarnów boasts an extraordinarily well-preserved Old Town, has one of the finest
market squares in southern Poland, and hides a wealth of unique buildings and
places of interest. With its rich Jewish history, superb churches and outstanding
museums, there’s enough to see and do to justify spending at least one night in the
city. A longer stay would also allow you to fully explore a city that features many other
remarkable sights, from traditional wooden-roofed houses to a diverse selection of
attention-grabbing monuments and statues. Tarnów’s geographical position also
makes it an attractive base for exploring many impressive sights within an hour or
two’s drive. A trip to the city’s Tourist Information Centre is also recommended for
supplementary, and often more in-depth information than what’s available here.
Poets’ Bench D-4, ul. Wałowa. Located on
Tarnów’s main pedestrian street opposite ul.
Wałowa 10 are the seated sculptures of three
popular 20th century Polish writers and literary
figures: Agnieszka Osiecka, Jan Brzechwa and
Zbigniew Herbert. Created by Jacek Kucaba,
the work led to debate over the suitability of
the chosen poets when it was unveiled in
2004. Today, however, it is one of Tarnów’s
most popular and photographed sculptures.
The boxes beside each writer are intended to
contain books authored by them; take a peek
to see if you’re so lucky.
Cathedral D-4, Pl. Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14
621 58 85, www.katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.
pl. Dating from the 14th century with major additions and rebuilds in the 15th and 19th centuries,
the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Nativity of the
Virgin Mary, just northwest of the Rynek and one
of the oldest brick buildings in the city, must rate
as one of the most impressive parish churches
in Poland. Of note is the 16th-century portal, the
impressive several-metre-long monuments to the
Tarnowski and Ostrogski families, a number of extraordinary paintings and the impressive, 72-metre
tower, a handy point of reference when getting lost
in one of Tarnów’s many rambling back streets.
Some nice recent additions are also evident,
including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on the southern side of the
building. QOpen 06:00 - 18:30, Sun 06:00 - 20:30. No visiting during mass please.
Holy Trinity Church (Kościół Św. Trójcy) D-5, ul. Tuchowska 5, tel. (+48)
14 626 88 85, www.tarnow_terlikowka.diecezja.tarnow.pl. Of the 50 or so
wooden churches in the Tarnów region, two can be found inside the city. This little
Gothic marvel was built between 1595 and 1597. Of particular interest inside is the
extraordinary painting above the main altar, the Throne of Grace, which depicts God
as having six fingers on his left hand, representing the number of days it took Him
to create the Earth. Q Open to visitors Wed - Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00
with a short break from 13:00 - 13:30. From October 17 open during mass only.
St. Mary’s Church (Sanktuarium Matki
Bożej Szkaplerznej) D-5, ul. Najświętszej
Marii Panny 1, tel. (+48) 14 621 31 75. Known
locally as the ‘Church by the Burek’, this beautiful
little Gothic larch wood church is only a four block
walk south from the market square, across from
the Old Cemetery. Consecrated in 1462, St. Mary’s
is home to a painting of the Virgin Mary and Child
to which several miracles are attributed. If you can
get yourself inside, the first thing you’ll notice is the
extraordinary smell of wood, a miniature organ,
painted flowers on the ceiling and a few remaining
touches of the original hand-painted wall paintings.
Lovely. Q Open 06:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement. From October open during mass only.
Monuments
Adam Mickiewicz D-4, Pl. Kazimierza Wielkiego. This small bust of the beloved 19th century Polish romantic poet is one of the oldest monuments in Tarnów,
having been unveiled on what was then known as Mały Rynek (Small Square) in
1900 by artist Tadeusz Błotnicki. Considered the greatest Polish literary figure of
all time, Mickiewicz’s bust supposedly survived the Nazis’ campaign to destroy
all Polish culture, when the occupiers were persuaded to believe the at-that-time
uninscribed statue was of German literary luminary Johann Wolfgang von Goethe.
John Paul II D-4, Pl. Katedralny. Heard of this guy? One of hundreds of statues of
the first Polish Pope across the country, Tarnów’s has the distinction of being the very
first in Poland, having been unveiled on June 29th, 1981 in a ceremony that gathered
over 10,000 observers to Pl. Katedralny. The work of popular sculptor Bronisław
Chromy, the 3.5m high sculpture was supposedly completed at the same time as an
assassination attempt on the pontiff in Rome. If true, the ominous coincidence certainly
didn’t prevent hundreds of other statues like it from being erected across the country.
ZALIPIE
SIGHTSEEING
King Władysław Łokietek D-4, ul. Wałowa 7. On March 7th, 1330, Polish
King Władysław Łokietek bestowed Tarnów city-founder Spycimir Leliwita with a
document - an original copy of which survives to this day in Kraków’s Czartoryski
Museum - granting his new city the right to self-govern under Magdeburg Law, in
recognition of services rendered to the king. 678 years later, the citizens were
still so grateful that they erected this impressive 3.5m bronze statue of the king
to commemorate his gracious act. Towering over a large square in front of a
preserved segment of Tarnów’s original defensive walls off ul. Wałowa, in real-life
sculptor Czesław Dźwigaj’s subject was much smaller, hence his affectionate
nickname of ‘Władysław the Elbow-high.’ Locals believe that if you rub the king’s
shoe your wishes will come true, but clearly only if you use your right hand.
Churches
Rynek & The Old Town
Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets
and central market square
(Rynek) reached by stairways
from a lower, surrounding loop
(formerly the city walls and
defensive towers), Tarnów’s
exemplar y Old Town began
li fe in the 14th centur y, alt h o u g h m os t o f wh a t n ow
stands dates from later on. Its
crowning glory is the Rynek, a
wide-open plaza surrounded
on all four sizes by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from the
16th to the 18th century.
SIGHTSEEING
Wincenty Witos E-4, Pl. Drzewny. Among the most revered heroes of the
area, Wincenty Witos (1874-1945) was born a peasant in the nearby village of
Wierzchosławice, where he rose to prominence as a politician to become leader of
the Polish People’s Party (PSL), a member of Parliament and served as the prime
minister of the interwar Second Republic of Poland three times. Overthrown by
Piłsudski’s coup in 1926, Witos was imprisoned and lived in exile before returning
to PL in 1939 only to be promptly imprisoned again by the Germans. He died in
1945 and is buried in his native Wierzchosławice (about 10km west of Tarnów),
where his family home and farmstead have been turned into a branch of the Tarnów
Regional Museum. His bronze monument was unveiled in 1988 and stands 6.5
metres tall including its pedastal just east of the market square near ul. Lwowska.
Felicja Curyłowa Farmstead
Museum (Muzeum Zagroda Felicji Curyłowej w Zalipiu) Zalipie
135, tel. (+48) 14 641 19 12, www.
muzeum.tarnow.pl. Zalipie’s most
celebrated artist was Felicja Curyłowa
(1904-1974), who most embodied the
spirit of Zalipie and was often visited by
passersby and tourists. Upon her death,
the Cepelia Foundation - Poland’s folk art
preservation and promotion organisation (see their stand in Kraków’s Cloth Hall in
the middle of the market square) - bought her property and in 1978 transferred it
to the care of the Tarnów Regional Museum. Several other local 19th century buildings, including a barn, pigsties and a woodshed, were moved to the farmstead and
today it is accessible to the public as an open-air museum of folk architecture and
art. Most impressive is the interior of Curyłowa’s three-room residence filled with
decorative ornaments by the artist, original furnishings, farm tools, folk costumes
and paper crafts. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3/2zł.
Painters’ House (Dom Malarek) Zalipie 128a, tel. (+48) 14 641 19
38, www.dommalarek.pl. At this local art center and workshop you can see
women at work on the beautiful local crafts on sale in the adjoining shop. This
is also a good place to get information, maps and guides to the area. QOpen
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
Getting There
Located in the middle of nowhere near the confluence of the Wisła and
Dunajec rivers, Zalipie is not that easy to get to, but you have to appreciate
that this is the very reason it is still such a special place to visit. Zalipie is
most easily accessed by car and though it lies just 36km north of Tarnów,
the journey nonetheless takes almost an hour; a good map is essential and
a GPS device would be an even better wingman. A few daily mini-buses from
Tarnów stop in Zalipie: look for private shuttles headed for Gręboszów or
Bieniaszowice that leave from opposite the Tarnów bus station; you’ll pay
5-6.50zł to get off in Zalipie. Alternatively, you could hitchhike, but don’t bank
on spending the night there unless it’s in a field. For accommodation in the
area, your best bet is Tarnów.
Tarnów District Museum (Gmach Główny) D-4, Rynek 20-21, tel.
(+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. This Renaissance building
dates back to 1565 and includes beautiful arcades and an extensive wine cellar.
In 1780 it was adapted to be the headquarters of Austrian General d’Altona who
took the city in 1772. From the 19th century the building was in Jewish possession
until after the war when it received a major renovation and has since been owned
by the city. Now the headquarters of the Tarnów District Museum, the building
hosts temporary regional exhibits - currently a cycle displaying the work of local
artisits which changes each month. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 15:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. From October open 09:00 - 15:00,
Tue 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admission 4/2zł, Sun
free. [Note that prices may be subject to change at the beginning of next year.].
Town Hall Museum (Ratusz)
D-4, Rynek 1, tel. (+48) 14 621 21
49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Worth
a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall
alone, this extraordinary collection over
two floors includes glass, porcelain and
silver, and the most extensive collection
of 18th-century Sarmatian portraits in
the country. Two new permanent exhibits have also been added: the Hunter’s
Armoury and the Sarmatian Armoury.
Sarmatism, if you’re wondering, was a
beguiling infusion of lifestyle, culture and ideology that predominated the Polish
nobility from the 17th to 19th century. Based on the mistaken and rather amusing
belief that Poles were descended from a loose confederation of ancient Iranian
tribes, Polish Sarmatism evolved over the centuries from a set of values based on
pacifism into a full-blown warrior philosophy that endorsed horseback riding, outrageous behaviour and a propensity for lavish Oriental clothing and huge, handlebar
moustaches. The Town Hall Tower can also be ascended, offering panoramic
views for an extra 10zł. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. From October open 09:00 - 15:00, Tue 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admission 5/3zł, family ticket 10zł. Sun free.
[Note that prices may be subject to change from the beginning of next year.].
Places of Interest
Museums
Diocesan Museum (Muzeum Diecezjalne) D-4, Pl. Katedralny 6,
tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum.diecezja.tarnow.pl. To paraphrase
the late John Paul II, the Church needs art to better understand what lies inside
the soul of man, and Tarnów’s superb Diocesan Museum, established in 1888,
does a very good job at doing just that. An astonishing collection of religious art
from the 15th century onwards, housed inside an equally wonderful ensemble of
16th-century houses, the museum’s most precious artefact is the original alter
from St. Leonard’s church in nearby Lipnica Murowana, moved here for preservation reasons at the insistence of UNESCO. Other highlights include some truly
breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from Małopolska, a collection of
church fabrics from the Middle Ages and a few pieces of 19th-century religious folk
art. A marvellous and highly recommended experience. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00,
13:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne) C-5, ul. Krakowska 10, tel. (+48) 14
622 06 25, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. As well as
highlighting local ethnographic traditions, this better
than average collection includes a large celebration
of Roma (Gypsy) culture, which is allegedly the only
such collection in Europe. A truly fascinating, if slightly
dated, exhibition tracing Roma culture in Poland from
its beginnings in the 15th century to their fate at the
hands of the Nazis and beyond, the three rooms that
make up the exhibition include some excellent maps,
models, costumes and photographs, all of which are
best seen with the aid of a small and very good booklet, The Gypsies, written by the museum’s curator
Adam Bartosz and available in English for just 3zł. There are still about 350 Roma
living in Tarnów, and their culture is still very much alive. In the museum’s back garden
you’ll find several traditionally painted gypsy caravans. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Wed, Fri
09:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. From October open 09:00 - 15:00,
Tue 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admission 5/3zł. Sun free.
RESTAURANTS
Zalipie is a small secluded Małopolska
village some 35km north of Tarnów
where you’ll find Polish folk art traditions
to be perhaps more alive than anywhere
else in the country. Since the late 19th
century the women of Zalipie have been
painting their homes inside and out with
bright, floral patterns making this village
one of the most photogenic places you
could ever brandish a camera. The custom developed in the days before chimneys
when the smoke from the cottage hearths would slowly blacken the interior walls.
To prepare the home for important religious holidays, the proud wives of the village
would repaint the walls with white lime. By the time progress and its new fan-dangled
‘chimneys’ arrived in Zalipie the tradition had not only stuck, but, with the aid of
coloured paints, it had evolved into a unique art form that saw the village cottages
adorned inside and out in extraordinary floral folk motifs. By the 1930s, the village
had made a bit of a name for itself and in 1948, the first competition to select the
most beautifully decorated cottage was held—a tradition that continues annually
to this day on the weekend after Corpus Christi.
Though well-known throughout Poland, Zalipie is well enough off the tourist trail
that it is not a highly-trafficked destination and your presence there will be met
with smiles, welcoming gestures and plenty of inquisitiveness from the villagers
themselves. Few adventures could be more authentic, so if you’ve got some time
to plumb around Poland, put this sleepy little marvel on your list.
As Zalipie is a village there’s no central district to gravitate to; most of the sights can
be accessed by foot, but it is ideal to have a car, bicycle or other mode of transport.
The joy of a visit is in wandering around the countryside discovering and admiring
the cheerful decorations. In addition to the 20 or so painted homes in the area,
you’ll find plenty of other objects that have been livened up with colour, including
barns, fences, outhouses, wells, chicken coops, roadside crosses and, of course, the
village church, the interior of which is filled with painted figures and ornate touches.
Don’t be surprised if you’re invited into someone’s home for a friendly look around,
but if local hospitality fails you can get the full effect by visiting the sites below.
SIGHTSEEING
It’s going to be quite some time before Tarnów can compete with the likes of Parisian cuisine or even nearby Kraków. Despite having an impeccably restored Old
Town that suggests prosperity, Tarnów simply does not have the tourist industry or
local wealth to support a diverse restaurant scene, however things are improving
and there are still some high-quality gems where you can feel like you’re treating
yourself without spending nearly what you would in Kraków.
International
Aida D-4, ul. Wałowa 4, tel. (+48) 14 627 42 64, www.restauracja-aida.pl.
Tucked away in a courtyard beyond a tacky neon sign declaring ‘Pizzeria’, Aida is not
as bad as first impressions would suggest. In fact, this is a surprisingly legit dining
option for a date or family dinner, with a decent attempt at Tuscan decor and even
outdoor seating in the summer. Lauded by locals for their pizza, Aida’s menu extends
to cover all the Polish standards, pasta, and a range of creative grilled meats. All
are reliable and we would even go so far as to recommend the pork loin roasted
with bacon, onion and cheese. It won’t bring the Michelin folks to town, but it is one
of only a half-dozen or so restaurants in Tarnów that they wouldn’t go running out
of. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 23:00. (8-35zł). PTAUVBXS
Cristal Park ul. Traugutta 5 (Cristal Park Hotel, Mościce), tel. (+48) 14
633 12 25, www.cristalpark.pl. One of the finest restaurants in the region
with a menu to suit all tastes ranging from pickled herring and meat cutlets to
pheasant and foie gras, this hotel restaurant is a delight in what can sometimes
feel like a food desert. In addition to the rich, well-presented food you have a
range of unique regional alcohols to taste-test and a huge wine list with over 70
labels. Recommended. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. (25-47zł). PTAUGBW
Restauracja Podzamcze Al. Tarnowskich 75 (Zabłocie), tel. (+48) 14
627 67 77, www.podzamcze.eu. Located below the ruins of Tarnów’s medieval
castle, Podzamcze attempts to evoke an air of those times long gone with plenty
of red brick and stone inside and out, and even a turret whose staircase winds
you up to the guestrooms above. Specialising in Polish and Hungarian grub, the
standouts are the goulash and the potato pancakes, which can be splendidly
experienced together if you order ‘placki po węgiersku.’ Some of the best food
around, it’s an ample reward for making the trek out to St. Martin’s Hill, and the
summer terrace is a great place to take a break on your way up or down. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (15-50zł). PTA6UGBSW
Italian
Delekta D-4, Rynek 24, tel. (+48) 14 656 44 22, www.delekta-tarnow.pl.
One of a staggeringly small number of restaurants on Tarnów’s market square, this
newcomer could just as easily be found on any street, in any town in PL. That’s not
to say that it’s bad, in fact quite to the contrary, it’s just so perfectly satisfactory
and familiar that we can’t help feeling like an opportunity was missed given the
context. A modern, casual interior combines with a standard menu of cheap pizzas,
salads and pastas that any chef in Tarnów could adequately prepare, to create
the perfect comfort zone for anyone afraid of trying something new, or exhausted
from doing so. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (11-27zł). GBSW
Soprano C-5, ul. Mościckiego 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 09 09, www.sopranotarnow.pl. Just when we’d given up on having a nice meal out in Tarnów, Soprano
saves our appetite. This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional Italian cuisine
down to the gold tableclothes. Unfortunately the best seats in the house are only
seasonal - when the outdoor garden full of plants and flowers is open, and you can
watch the chef at work with the brick, wood-fired pizza oven - but that shouldn’t
stop you from making this one of your meals out when in town. The soups are
delicious and come with fresh olive bread, while our lamb shank with potato puree
and red currant sauce (40zł) was a worthy follow-up. Probably the most money
you can spend on a meal out in Tarnów, and still a bargain. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (20-40zł). PTAUGBSW
U Włocha E-4, ul. Żydowska 16, tel. (+48) 14 656 22 77, www.pizzeriauwlocha.com. In a town full of pizza shops, this authentic Italian eatery owned and operated
by a charming Italian-Polish couple quickly outclasses the competition by bringing not
just the flavours of Italy to Tarnów, but also its warmth and hospitality, expressed in that
most Italian of methods - with a full table of delicious food. All the traditional dishes are
present - from ravioli to risotto - and all come with fresh ingredients, affordable prices
and charming service from the people that prepared them. There’s also a great selection
of Italian wines, imported sodas, and Peroni bottles for only 7.5zł. Despite the interior
being full of reliefs that look a bit like they belong in a Roman bath, this is a great family
restaurant you’ll be happy to have found. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Note that the opening hours may be subject to change.
Mościce In addition to Tarnów’s Old
Town, the nearby suburb of Mościce may
also hold some intrigue for visitors. Four
kilometres west from Tarnów’s market
square on the other side of the Biała
River, Mościce was built in the 1920s as
a residential area for employees of the
Nitrogen Works (presently called ‘Azoty
Tarnów’) - the first, and today still one of
the largest, nitrate factories in Europe.
The district acquired its name from Ignacy Mościcki, a Polish chemist who patented
the industrial production of nitrogen and nitric acid, initiated the construction of the
Nitrogen Works, and was President of the Republic of Poland in the interwar years of
1926-39. As a result, the name Mościce wasn’t officially used for the area during the
communist era because of its connotations with Polish independence.
Ironically, the industrial district of Mościce is also known as Tarnów’s ‘Garden
District’ thanks to its many trees, gardens and beltways of park. When the area
was laid out in the ‘20s, dozens of trees were planted along its short, narrow
streets to help diffuse the odour of nitrogen in the air. The prewar area west of
ul. Czerwonych Klonów (one of Mościce’s main streets) is particularly green and
picturesque with buildings in the style of 19th century manor houses surrounded by
gardens. The entire residential district has been added to Tarnów’s list of historical
monuments and is ideal for a stroll, particularly in the autumn.
East of ul. Czerwonych Klonów is Mościce’s more modern district characterized
by taller residential buildings, including the renovated 8-story Cristal Park Hotel.
Next door is the Mościce Cultural Centre (ul. Traugutta 1), host to a cinema
and art gallery, as well as frequent concerts and other events. Mościce is also
Tarnów’s sports district thanks to its large sports complex with an indoor pool
and playing fields, plus the Unia Tarnów speedway track.
In 1951 the suburban village was officially incorporated into Tarnów and today
has a population of about 10,000, formerly among them the world famous artist
Wilhelm Sasnal who was raised in Mościce. For more info, including a walking
tour of the area’s highlights, pick up the handy brochure ‘120 minutes in TarnówMościce’ from the Tourist Information Office on the market square.
RESTAURANTS
Polish
Obsesja Smaku C-4, ul. Krakowska 3, tel. (+48) 14 688 80 77, www.obsesja-smaku.pl. A welcoming restaurant offering hearty, honest Polish home-cooking.
The interior balances elements of class and country with fine drapes and chandeliers
alongside the colourful floral folk patterns on the walls - a nod to the traditional art
of nearby Zalipie. The food is a cut above your typical Polish eatery with delicious
potato pancakes smothered in goulash, and the cherry pierogi are another tempting
highlight. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (13-35zł). PTAGBSW
Pasaż D-4, Pl. Kazimierza Wlk. 2, tel. (+48) 14 627 82 78, www.pasaz.
tarnow.pl. Hidden inside a passage (as the name implies) between the Rynek
and the street of the address, the surprisingly swanky Pasaż is a local favourite
specialising in potato pancakes. Pasaż serves the stodgy Polish standby in ten
different ways, including topped with goulash or oscypek (a local sheep cheese
from the mountains), plus plenty of meat and fish entrees. Great for smothering
a hangover or fueling up for a big day of sightseeing, Pasaż earns plus marks.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (15-45zł). PTAGSW
Tarnovia A-5, ul. Kościuszki 10, tel. (+48) 14 630 03 50, www.hotel.
tarnovia.pl. When we described the Tarnovia Hotel’s ground floor restaurant
as the kind of experience that will “soon be a thing of the past,” we were clearly
flexing our prognostic powers as the hotel, restaurant and bar have all been
completely renovated since. Today the Tarnovia carries the same air of local
sophistication that it’s always had, however now with a fully modern interior of
elegant table settings and framed classic images of Tarnów that pay homage
to the city’s past rather than live in it. Perfect for banquets, the menu gives you
enough reasons to stop in off the street, including 15 types of pierogi and promotional lunch and dinner deals. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 23:00.
(13-60zł). PTAUGBSW
Tatrzańska C-4, ul. Krakowska 1, tel. (+48) 14 622 46 36, www.kudelski.
pl. A very friendly and relaxed affair, featuring English-speaking waiters in bow
ties and a classy menu. Among the extravagant-sounding dishes on offer are the
recommended beef tartare, Polish mountain cheese and scampi in brandy sauce.
The wine list offers the chance to try regional labels, there’s a fine selection of
desserts, and it’s all wrapped up in an elegant ambience of potted palms and paintings of Old Tarnów. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (18-45zł). PTAUBXSW
U Jana D-4, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 14 626 05 64, www.hotelujana.pl. For
the number of umbrellas and chairs on the market square in summer time, you’d
think finding a place to eat wouldn’t be such an undertaking. One of only two
establishments on the Rynek at present that actually serves a meal at all, what
we admire most about U Jana is its reliability. This is in fact your best bet on the
market square not only for food, but also accommodation and maybe even a
drink. Start your day here with an honest attempt at English breakfast (the bacon
is worth it) for only 20zł, or return in the evening to choose from the full menu
of earnest Polish fare at fair prices. The interior features a salon of comfortable
leather love-seats before room after room of sloppy portraits and reproductions
of famous nationalist paintings. Completely old-fashioned and enjoyable for it.
QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (12-55zł). TABXSW
Cafes
Gusto A-6, Pl. Dworcowy 4, tel. (+48) 534 77 44 66, www.cafegusto.
pl. Located inside the newly renovated train station, this small cafe goes
beyond coffee and is actually a great place to refuel thanks to the presence
of that mystifyingly most-rare of all things in Poland: a proper sandwich.
Choose between mini (15cm, 6.90zł) and mega sizes (30cm, 8.90zł), select
the bread of your choice, then meat, cheese and a range of veggies that even
includes sprouts and marinated red peppers, add sauce and lo and behold,
you’ve got yourself a made to order sandwich that’s not from Subway. Open
early and apparently only in Tarnów. QOpen 05:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00
- 20:00. TUGS
Hybryda D-4, Rynek 22, tel. (+48) 14 627 22 82 ext 22, www.hybryda.
com.pl. Charming service and some great outdoor seating next to the Town
Hall mark Hybryda out as one of the best, if not the best place to relax on the
market square when the weather’s warm. Inside find bright orange walls, basic
wooden seating, a big screen for football and a ground floor shisha room (open
from 16:00), indicative of the fact that as evening falls this cafe becomes one of
the most interesting watering holes around. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. GBW
JEWISH TARNÓW
St. Martin’s Hill Góra Św. Mar-
cina (Zabłocie). This 384 metre
hill on the southern end of Tarnów is
considered the northernmost point
of the Carpathian Mountains and is a
favourite recreation point for locals. It
was here that the Tarnowski Castle,
first completed in 1329, stood for
many centuries. The castle had its
heydey during the reign of hetman
Jan Tarnowski who adapted it into a
Renaissance-style palace in the 16th
century. However, after the hetman’s son died childless in 1570 - a mere six years
after his own death - the castle began to fall into disrepair and was abandoned
by 1724. Today all that remains are ruins, however they serve as a popular hiking destination for locals who enjoy the panoramic views of Tarnów’s Old Town
(climb at your own risk, particularly dicey in bad weather). On the western side
of St. Martin’s Hill, about a 15 minute walk from the castle ruins and easy to find
next to a tall TV transmitter, stands one of Tarnów’s three wooden churches:
St. Martin’s. Built in Gothic style in the 15th century, it stands on the site of
Tarnów’s first parish, established in the 12th century. Only 2km from the city
centre, St. Martin’s Hill is popular with mountain bikers, while others enjoy the
scenic walk. Near the top is the Podzamcze restaurant, one of Tarnów’s better
culinary offerings.
Strzelecki Park C/D-2, ul. Piłsudskiego /
ul. Słowackiego. Located just north of the city
centre, Strzelecki is Tarnów’s largest and oldest
public park - the over 8 hectare space having
been established back in 1866. An English-style
garden planted with many unique trees, bushes
and perennials, this picturesque park is a wonderful place to enjoy Tarnów in warm weather.
Within the grounds you’ll find several interesting
architectural structures, including a neo-Gothic
shooting range building from the mid-19th century, however the park’s main feature is General
Bem’s mausoleum. Located at the north end of
the park (near a popular children’s playground),
Bem’s unusual tomb rises out of the middle of a
pond on six tall Corinthian columns, atop of which
is Bem’s sarcophagus - with inscriptions in Polish, Hungarian and Turkish - which
has held his ashes since 1929. The pond below is home to swans and ducks
and full of waterlilies, making this one of the most photogenic places in Tarnów.
Worth visiting. Q Open 05:30-21:00.
Tarninówka
According to historian Jan Długosz—esteemed authority on Polish antiquity—
the city of Tarnów does not actually take its name from its medieval ruling
family, but quite the other way round. The name ‘Tarnów’ in fact originates
from ‘tarnina’—a spiky shrub native to the region. As we know from Monty
Python, shrubbery was very important to medieval life, and apparently in the
14th century when city founder Spycymir Leliwita was surveying spots for his
new settlement and discovered an abundance of tarnina on St. Martin’s Hill,
he took it as a sign from on high and Tarnów came into being. From that day
forward, Leliwita changed the name of his progeny to ‘Tarnowski’ who went
on to rule the land for almost 250 years.
So what was so special about this shrubbery? Tarnina, most commonly known
as ‘blackthorn’ in English, produces a dark purple plum-like fruit in autumn,
which can be used to make wines, brandies and other alcohols. Apparently
the cellars of Spycymir’s castle were full of wines and liqueurs made from
tarnina fruit, and the tradition of making teas and alcoholic infusions from
the plant continues today. Purported to have medicinal properties such as
regulating metabolism, settling the stomach, and eliminating toxins from the
body, ‘Tarninówka’ brand tea and spirits have become a popular local product
and city souvenir. Worth seeking out, you can try this ‘taste of Tarnów’ at
many restaurants and cafes around town, or take it home with you by visiting
any local alcohol shop. The tea is even available for purchase in the Tourist
Information centre (Rynek 7). Na zdrowie!
NIGHTLIFE
Tarnów’s nightlife scene is about what you might expect from small town whose
student population tends to move to Kraków the moment they graduate from
high school. Which is to say, rather limited and downright sleepy on weeknights.
Of course, there are exceptions, and you’ll find the best of them listed here.
Bars & Pubs
Basteja D-4, ul. Kapitulna 8, tel. (+48) 14 656 42 02, www.pubbasteja.
pl. Finding Basteja comes as a relief, as it validates the hope that there must be
at least one cool cafe/bar hidden somewhere in this city. Hidden indeed it is - in a
passageway between ul. Kapitulna and ul. Wałowa - and it owes a lot to its location
which comprises part of Tarnów’s ancient city walls. On one side you’ll find an ethereal red interior with tasteful lighting and black and white photography of Old Tarnów
on the walls, while across the passage you can’t miss the magnificent summer beer
garden inside the ruins of the bastion it takes its name from. Either way, this is one
of the most laidback locales around and you’re likely to leave with it near the top of
your list of trip highlights. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. GBW
Carpe Diem D-4, Rynek 16, tel. (+48) 14 656 47 47, www.carpediem.
pl. A favourite watering hole of students, Tarnów’s incarnation of the Carpe Diem
franchise has the same careless appeal as those in other Polish cities, while offering
the same dirt cheap beer (3.50zł a pint on Mondays!). Designed with a slight motor
theme, you’ll find all kinds of wacky furnishings, bike parts, chrome bits and even
some checkerboard amongst all the brick and stone, plus foosball, darts, and a
stage area in the back that occasionally hosts rock acts. Walking the line between
sloppy rock pub and sticky club, a dance party is not guaranteed, but you never
know when one will break out. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 04:00. XW
Leprikon Irish Pub D-4, ul. Rynek 16, tel. (+48) 696 18 75 22. Fetching a great
location on the market square, this relatively new Irish pub is a welcome addition to
Tarnów - a city suffering from a severe lack of decent watering holes. Leprikon looks
the part with lots of lucky green and dark wood fittings, 2 TVs beaming live sports,
Guinness on draft (14zł) and even a full Irish breakfast on offer (14zł). In addition to the
breakfast menu, this is one of a scant number of places on the market square that
will feed you a proper meal, from Shepherd’s Pie (15zł) to local specialties, burgers
and other pub grub. Though hardly original or wholly authentic, Leprikon’s effort is
still one most will appreciate, and symbolises a recent shift for the city from one that
people are queuing to leave, to one that foreign punters now consider invading on
holiday. Congrats, Tarnów. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. AGBW
Clubs
Mała Czarna D-4, ul. Wałowa 29 (entrance from ul. Rybna), tel. (+48) 603 84
60 46. The closest thing to an alternative clubbing destination we’ve yet to see in Tarnów,
this intimate club features rainbow-striped sofas, a cool and confident clientele that seem
like they’ve been partying together for years, and a loud and live dance-floor on weekends
when DJs play everything from remixed 90s rock songs to reggae, techno and house. If
Tarnów had hipsters you’d find them here, but as it stands none of the locals are jaded or
self-important enough not to want to show you a good time. Indeed it’s one of the best
to be had in town. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 04:00. [Note that they can
be kind of flaky with the opening hours, which couldn’t be confirmed before press time.]
Pretekst D-4, Rynek 12, tel. (+48) 14 621 53 33, www.pretekst.eu. Located
right on Tarnów’s market square beneath Impresja restaurant, Pretekst gives you an
instructive glimpse into the nightlife and music culture of a small, somewhat provincial
Polish city without a major university. Occupying three dingy cellar rooms, they haven’t
done much with the place but there is a bar and it does serve Guinness. With a small,
stuffy dance-floor in the back room, Pretekst packs out with local party-goers whose
parents probably know exactly where they are (they aren’t exactly spoiled for choice)
as resident DJs play hip-hop (Fridays) and house music (Saturdays). The vibe may
not be fresh, but it is fun and friendly, and simply being a foreigner could make you
the draw of the night. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. AUBXW
Wall Street Bull E-4, ul. Pl. Więźniów KL Auschwitz 1, tel. (+48) 14 688 90
66, www.wallstreetbull.pl. Significantly more upscale than Tarnów’s other nightlife
venues, as you may have guessed Wall Street fancies itself as the music club of choice
for refined local businessmen and visiting Manhattan socialites. Conservatively modern
with red leather booths, bowtied and suspendered barstaff, a professionally lit dance
floor and some tacky NYC iconography, Wall Street fails to fill its desired niche, perhaps
because, well...this is Tarnów and the local, everyday folks need a few places to go too.
As such it draws a mixed crowd that covers two generations, and varies its programme
accordingly, somehow striking a successful balance. Paid entry for most parties, but
it might be worth it for the irony of getting your photo taken in front of their Statue Of
Liberty backdrop. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PUGW
The first mention of Jews in Tarnów dates to
1445 with the mentioning of a certain Kalef, a
silk merchant from Lwów (now the city of L’viv
in western Ukraine). The first written record
of a synagogue can be traced to the 16th
century, and in 1667, Stanisław Koniecpolski,
who then owned what was still a private city,
granted Tarnów’s Jewish population the rights
to a place of worship and their own cemetery.
Tarnów’s vibrant Jewish community included large numbers of both Orthodox and
Hasidic Jews, and the city remains a site of pilgrimage for many modern Hasidic
Jews. Tarnów’s Jews formed a large part of the city’s intellectual and cultural
elite, among them several of the most prominent lawyers, doctors, musicians,
teachers and entrepreneurs, although the vast majority were generally poor.
On the day WWII broke out in Europe there were about 25,000 Jews living in
Tarnów, making up over 40% of the city’s population. The Ghetto was located in
the area directly east of the Rynek, where the majority of the Jewish population
already lived. Between June 1942 and September 1944 virtually the entire
Jewish population of Tarnów were either shot or deported, almost certainly
to their deaths, ending almost exactly 500 years of Jewish cultural life in the
city. A sinister footnote in the history of the Holocaust relates to Tarnów; as
early as October 20, 1939, Tarnów’s Jews were forced to wear Star of David
armbands, making this the first town in Poland to do so.
The Nazi occupation of Tarnów during WWII ensured that not only were the Jewish
people obliterated, but that their cultural monuments were also destroyed wherever
possible. Thanks in part to a rather uncharacteristic sloppiness on the part of the
Germans and the fact that the city’s architecture came out of the war relatively
unscathed, a few traces of Tarnów’s Jewish past are still visible, particularly in
the area around the former Ghetto immediately east of the Rynek between ulica
Żydowska and ulica Wekslarska. Żydowska (Jewish Street) is the more interesting of the two, and features a few Jewish remnants, most noticeably about half
way down on the left where a large open space marks the spot where the former
17th-century synagogue stood. Burnt to the ground by the Germans on the night
of November 9, 1939, all that remains are the four large columns and dome that
made up its bimah. The former Ghetto is worth a look around in general, and
traces of mezuzahs can still be found in the occasional doorway.
Nearby, just to the northeast at Pl. Bohaterów Getta is the former Jewish
Bath House - or mikvah - where the first Tarnovians (some Jews, but mostly
Poles) who would later become the first prisoners of Auschwitz were kept before being deported to the death camp in June 1940. Built in fanciful Moorish
style between 1900 and 1904, the building still shows evidence of its former
beauty, but has been sadly ruined by the creeping claws of Capitalism and
is now home to a motley collection of assorted businesses who proffer their
wares with the help of several vulgar signs screwed onto every available space
on the building’s exterior. Close by is the often overlooked memorial to the first
728 prisoners to be transported to Auschwitz.
The largest surviving relic of Tarnów’s living Jewish past lies, literally and
somewhat ironically, inside the four walls that surround the city’s Jewish
Cemetery. A 10-minute walk north of the Old Town, just east of the junction
of ul. Słoneczna and ul. Matki Bożej Fatimskiej, the cemetery was established in the early 1580s and is one of the oldest and largest in Poland. With
several thousand gravestones, almost all of them untouched by the hands of
both the Nazis and Mother Nature, the Jewish Cemetery is a haunting albeit
necessary part of any visit to Tarnów. Seriously overgrown in places, some
areas near the main entrance can still be easily reached, and the addition of
several signs in English marking a few of the graveyard’s more eminent souls
is a welcome addition. Near the entrance is a large memorial to the Jews of
Tarnów, built from one of the columns of the city’s
destroyed New Synagogue. The cemetery’s original
gates are now in Washington’s Holocaust Museum,
and their replacements are kept firmly locked, however it is possible to borrow the key by leaving a 20zł
deposit at the Tourist Information Office at Rynek 7
(Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. From
October open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun). Here you can also pick up a small, free
booklet with more comprehensive information on
Tarnów’s remaining Jewish sights and their histories
than is covered here.
SHOPPING & DIRECTORY
Food & Sweets
Pasieka Radwan D-5, ul. Panny Marii 9, tel. (+48) 600 65 90 78. A
wonderful shop run by a local beekeeper, find some great honey including one
from the nectar of raspberry flowers as well as a range of beeswax candles
fashioned into various religious and natural designs. Supplies tend to completely sell out between harvests, so don’t sleep on the opportunity. QOpen
07:30 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Cepelia D-4, Rynek 8, tel. (+48) 14 621 31 74, www.cepelia.pl. An
treasure trove of gifts and souvenirs including Tarnów T-shirts, dolls, painted
eggs, mugs and more. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Tourist Information Centre D-4, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 14 688 90 90,
www.tarnow.travel. In addition to plenty of free info and one of the most
helpful staffs in Poland, the tourist info office is also one of your best bets
for local souvenirs, including books, postcards, gadgets, Tarninówka tea and
more. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. From October open
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Markets
Burek Square D-5, Pl. Gen. J. Bema. At the bottom of the Wielkie Schody
(Great Stairs) descending from the market square behind the tourist information
office, you’ll find ‘the Burek’ - Tarnów’s primary marketplace. At the intersection of numerous trade routes, this legendary merchant square dates back
centuries, arguably serving as the artistic and social centre of the city more
so than the Rynek. In fact, in the mid-19th century two churches and a hospital
for the poor were torn down to accommodate its expansion. Today its primary
commodities are the same as they’ve always been: local, home-grown fruit and
vegetables, fresh meat and flowers (Sun flowers only). Here we list the official
opening hours, but honestly, vendors come and go as they please. QOpen
06:00 - 15:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 13:00.
Shopping Malls
Galeria Tarnovia ul. Krakowska 149 (Koszyce), tel. (+48) 14 646 63
01, www.galeria-tarnovia.com. Just southwest of the centre on the road to
Kraków, Galeria Tarnovia is the most modern consumer complex in the area,
cramming over 90 shops, services, cafes and restaurants over two floors
with underground parking for about 450 vehicles. The biggest retail space
belongs to the Simply hypermarket, with other stores including H&M, Carry, Lee
Wrangler, Reserved, Stradivarius and New Yorker. Easily accessible by public
transport, there’s even a free shuttle bus that ferries shoppers straight to the
turnstiles of this consumer temple; the best place to catch it is on ul. Krakowska
at Pl. Popiełuszki. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Gemini Park ul. Nowodąbrowska 127 (Krzyż), tel. (+48) 14 639 50 10,
www.tarnow.geminipark.pl. Technically the largest shopping complex in the
area, Gemini Park brandishes over 100 stores, outlets and restaurants including retail giants Tesco, Media Markt, Castorama, plus KappAhl, Intimissimi,
Smyk, Empik, Swiss, Ecco and more. The shopping sprawl includes over 1000
parking spaces and is easily reached just northeast of the centre by public
transit; simply hop on bus number 2. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
24-hour Pharmacies
Apteka F-4, ul. Lwowska 22, tel. (+48) 14 622 28 66. Everything you
need to manage minor medical mishaps, at all hours.
Internet Cafes
Tourist Information Centre D-4, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 14 688 90 90,
www.tarnow.travel. In addition to tonnes of free info and an eager, helpful
staff, you’ll also find three perfectly capable computers with free internet at the
Tourist Info office. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
Post
Post Office (Poczta Polska) D-3, ul. Mickiewicza 6, tel. (+48) 14
621 17 62, www.poczta-polska.pl. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
STREET REGISTER
1 Maja
B-3
29 Listopada
B-4
3 Maja
A-2
5 Pułku Strzelców Konnych, Pl. E-3
Asnyka
D-3
Bandrowskiego
B-5/B/C/D-6
Basztowa
D-4
Batorego
C-4
Bema
B/C/D-5
Bema, Pl.
D-5
Bernardyńska
D-4/5/E-4
Bitwy Pod Cedynią
E-1/F-1
Bohaterów Getta, Pl.
E-4
Boya-Żeleńskiego
B-1
Bóżnic
E-3/4
Brodzińskiego
D-2/3/4
Cegielniana
E-1
Cicha
E-4/5
Chopina
B-3/4/C-4
Chrząszcza
B-2/3
Dąbrowskiego
E-4/5/F-5/6
Dembowskiego
A-4/5
Dębowa
E-4
Drużbackiej
C-6
Drzewna
E-4
Drzewny, Pl.
E-4
Drzymały
E-6
Ducha Świętego
D-5
Dwernickiego
E-1/2
Dworcowa
A-6
Dworcowy, Pl.
A-6
Fąfary
F-6
Forteczna
E-4
Franciszkańska
E-4/5
Goldhammera
C-3/4/E-2/3
Gomoły
F-3
Goslara
F-3/4
Grottgera
B-2/3/4
Gumniska
F-5
Jana III Sobieskiego, Pl.
C/D-4
Jastruna
A-1
Kaczkowskiego
C-5
Kapitulna
D-4
Karłowicza
B/C-1
Kasprowicza
A-2/B-1/2
Katedralna
D-4
Katedralny, Pl.
D-4
Kazimierza Wielkiego, Pl.
D-4
Klasztorna
E-4
Klikowska
A-1/2/B-3
Kolberga
B-1
Kołłątaja
E/F-4
Konarskiego
D/E-5
Kopernika
C/D-4
Kościuszki
A/B-5
Krakowska
A-5/6/B-5/C-4/5
Krasińskiego
B-3/4/5
Kręta
E-4
Krótka
D-4
Krupnicza
F-3/4
Księżycowa
F-2
Kupiecka
E-4
Kurpińskiego
B-1
Legionów
D-1/2/3/4
Limanowskiego
D-5
Lippóczy’ego
C-1
Lwowska
E/F-4
Łazienna
D-5
Łazienny, Pl.
D-5
Malczewskiego
B-4/5
Małe Schody
E-4
Marszałka
E/F-2
Matejki
B/C-3
Matki Bożej Fatimskiej, Al.
E-1/2/3/F-1
Mickiewicza
D/E/F-3
Morawskiego, Pl.
E-4
Mostowa
F-4/5
Mościckiego
A/B/C-5/B/C-4
Nadbrzeżna Dolna
E-5
Nadbrzeżna Górna
F-5
Najświętszej Marii Panny
D-5
Na Łąkach
D-2
Nowa
E-3/4
Nowy Świat
C-1/2/3/4/5
Ofiar Katynia, Pl.
D-4
Ofiar Stalinizmu, Pl.
E-4
Olejarska
E-4
Paderewskiego
A-1/B-2
Parkowa
B-1/2/3
Pasaż Tertila
D-4
PCK
B-3/4
Piaskowa, Al.
C-1
Piastowska
F-5
Piekarska
D-4
Piłsudskiego
D-1/2/3/4
Piotrowskiego
E-6
Polna
F-3
Poniatowskiego
D/E-2
Powroźnicza
E-3
Powstańców Warszawy B-3/4/5
Prostopadła
D-1/2
Przecznica Strusińska
B-3/4/5
Przedszkolaków
E-6
Przesmyk
E-5
Pułaskiego
A-2/3/4/5/6
Rogoyskiego
C-2/3/4
Romanowicza
A-1/2/3/4
Rybna
D-4
Rybny, Pl.
D-4
Rynek
D-4
Sanguszków, Al.
F-6
Sądowa
E-5
Sienkiewicza, Pl.
D-3
Sienna
F-4
Sikorskiego
A/B-5
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Sitko
D-2/3/E-2
Skargi
C-1/2/3/B-3
Skłodowskiej-Curie
E-3
Słoneczna
E/F-2
Słowackiego A/B/C/D-2/C/D-3
Sokolna
A-5
Solidarności, Al.
B/C/D-3
Sowińskiego
C-4
Sprawiedliwości, Pl.
E-5
Stanisza
E/F-6
Stara
D/E-4
Starodąbrowska
F-1/2/3/4/5
Starowolskiego
B-4
Staszica
C-4
Studniarskiego
D-6
Szczepanika
A-3
Szczepanika, Pl.
D-3
Szenwalda
A-2
Szeroka
E-4
Szewska
E-5
Szkotnik
A-3/4
Szpitalna
E-3/4/F-1/2/3
Szujskiego
A/B-3
Szymanowskiego
B-1
św. Anny
D-4/5
Taras
D-4
Targowa
D-4/5
Targowy, Pl.
D-5
Torowa
F-6
Towarowa
C/D-6
Tuchowska
D-5/6/E-6
Ujejskiego
A-5
Ułańska
A-4
Urszulańska
C-5
Urwana
F-6
Wałowa
D/E-4
Waryńskiego
D/E/F-4
Wąska
D/E-4
Wekslarska
D/E-4
Wesoła
F-5
Westwalewicza
E/F-4/F-5
Widok
F-1/2/3
Wielkie Schody
D-4/5
Wieniawskiego
A-2
Więźniów KL Auschwitz, Pl.
E-4
Wigury
D/E-3
Wita Stwosza
C-6
Wodna
D-5/6
Wojska Polskiego
F-1
Wojtarowicza
B-1/2/C-1
Wójcickiego
D-1
Wspólna
E-6
Zakątna
D/E-4
Ziaji, Al.
E/F-6
Żwirki
D-2
Żydowska
D/E-4
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Eighty kilometres east of Kraków at the crossroads of two ancient trade routes
between Germany and Ukraine as well as Hungary and the Baltic Sea, Tarnów is
easily reached by road. A good network of train and bus services running in and
out of the city centre also link Tarnów with many major destinations throughout
Poland. The nearest airport is Kraków Balice.
By Bus
Buses from Kraków to Tarnów run about once an hour, with the first leaving as early
as 06:30 and the last bus back to Kraków departing at a rather early 18:05 during
the autumn and winter (except for Thurs and Sun when we’re told there should be a
bus to Kraków at 22:05). PKS schedules aren’t famous for their long-term consistency
however, so you may want to check ahead. Minibuses also make the trip, departing
from across from the bus station, so don’t overlook that option if you need it.
Main Bus Station A-6, ul. Dworcowa 1, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 23. Offering
almost nothing in the way of services or facilities aside from a currency exchange
(kantor), toilets downstairs, a few kiosks selling mobile top-up vouchers and a
snack bar upstairs. Don’t be duped by the ticket windows, they only sell monthly
passes and local fares, which goes a long way towards explaining why everyone
just buys their tickets from the driver. There are no ATMs, so if you need cash
you’ll have to go to the train station next door. To get into town, find taxis parked
outside, who will take you to the Rynek for 10-12zł. Bus N°9 can be caught on ul.
Krakowska (buy a 2.40zł ticket from one of the nearby kiosks), and heads east
along the same street before peeling right and skirting around the southern edge
of the Old Town. A walk into the centre takes about 10 minutes.
By Car
Tarnów is close to a number of major road routes in all directions and is worth
considering as a place to stop off for a few hours or even for the night if you’re on
a long journey. Only 80km from Kraków, it’s an easy hour’s drive between the two
if you catch it at the right time, however traffic jams are increasingly common and
unpredictable, meaning the journey could take anywhere between one and two
hours. The main road (the E4 highway) from Kraków leads right to the market square
and the most convenient place to park is ul. Bernardyńska, by making a right on ul.
Targowa and then your next left on Bernardyńska. Parking must be paid Mon-Fri
08:00-18:00, Sat 08:00-15:00 (Sun free), with some complicated math dictating
the price depending how long you will be there (for example: 1zł/30mins, 2zł/1hr,
4.20zł/2hrs, 6.80zł/3hrs, after which it’s an additional 2zł for every hour over 3,
or 14 for the whole day). Buy a ticket from the kiosk, cross off the proper time and
from there the market square and tourist info office are just one block to your north.
Guarded Parking D-4, ul. Brodzińskiego.
CULTURE & EVENTS
Festivals
Bike Rental
BWA City Gallery (BWA Galeria Miejska w Tarnowie) A-6, Main
29.10 Monday - 04.11 Sunday
Train Station, Pl. Dworcowy 4, tel. (+48) 14 688 88 20, www.gm.tarnow.
pl. Tarnów’s premier contemporary art gallery, which as recently as November
2011 moved into this new space in the renovated railway station. Q Open 11:00
- 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission varies depending on
the exhibit; Sundays free.
Azoty International Jazz Contest Festival
Tourist Information Centre D-4, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 14 688 90 90,
www.tarnow.travel. The only bike rental in Tarnów is handily operated out of
the ceaselessly resourceful Tourist Information Office on the market square.
Prices are 10zł for up to 3hrs, 15zł up to 5hrs or 30zł for the day day, except
for Mondays when you can pedal off for only 1zł. A 20zł deposit is required;
Mondays 50zł. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Kino Marzenie C-4, ul. Staszica 4, tel. (+48) 14 688 88 85, www.tck.pl.
Established in 1913, this historic downtown theatre holds up to 328 people and is
equipped with the most modern technology to deliver the best cinematic experience available today. One of Tarnów’s most important cultural centres, in addition
to mostly independent art films, Marzenie’s repertoire also includes concerts
and other events. Q Box office open depending on repertoire. Tickets 14-20zł.
Tarnów is served by some 40 or so trains every day from Kraków, with a journey
time of between 80 and 120 minutes depending on whether you take a local or
express train.
Main Train Station A-6, Pl. Dworcowy 4, tel. (+48) 197 57, www.
rozklad.pkp.pl. Following an extensive renovation, Tarnow’s train station
reopened in November 2010, exactly one hundred years after its original opening in November 1910. While the original character of the building was retained
- including Edmund Cieszkiewicz’s paintings of the Tatra and Pieniny mountains
which were funded by the early train owners over a century ago - it has been
converted into a modern passenger centre with all the services a modern station
requires. A tourist info point is open Mon-Fri 08:30 - 13:00 (however closing
times may vary depending on demand), and the two ticket offices stay open
from 04:30 - 21:15. Find also a kiosk, shop, cafe, underground restaurant and
the BWA Gallery. Walking to the centre takes about 10mins while a taxi from
outside the station will cost about 10-12zł.
National Holidays
November 1
November 11
December 25
December 26
January 1, 2013
January 6, 2013
All Saints’ Day
Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)
First Day of Christmas
Second Day of Christmas
New Year’s Day
Three Kings
LEISURE
Art Galleries
Cinemas
By Train
CULTURE & EVENTS
Kino Millenium ul. Traugutta 1, tel. (+48) 14 633 46 04, www.csm.
tarnow.pl. With two theatres (one accommodating 600 moviegoers, the other
106) showing the latest in independent cinema, this movie house is only part
of what’s on offer at the modern Mościce Cultural Centre (located 6km west of
downtown Tarnów), which also includes art exhibits, concerts and other events.
Q Box office open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 20:00. Tickets 15-18zł.
Cultural Centres
Mościce Cultural Centre (Centrum Sztuki Mościce) ul. Traugutta 1,
tel. (+48) 14 633 46 00, www.csm.tarnow.pl. The largest and most active
cultural centre in the area, this modern building 6km west of Tarnów’s downtown
hosts a cinema, exhibition halls, concerts and other events. Check their website
for more details. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
Various locations, www.tarnow-jazz.pl. Now in its 5th edition, this annual festival
gathers international stars of the jazz scene to Tarnów. This year’s headliner is
American post-bop jazz saxophonist and flautist Kenny Garrett (not to be confused
with that other Kenny G). The Grammy Award winner is just over 50 years old and
has over 50 albums to his name, including collaborations with big names like Miles
Davis, Chick Corea and Pat Methany; he will perform with his quintet on Nov. 3rd at
the Mościce Cultural Centre. Other highlights include Polish singer, violinist, pianist,
guitarist, composer and poet Stanisław Sojka, Piotr Wojtasik & Old Land, and the
Globetrotters. The festival also includes a competition for best solo and ensemble
jazz performances in two age groups, to be judged by the international jury. For full
programme details, visit the official website. Q Full schedule available at www.
tarnow-jazz.pl. Tickets 5-65zł. Available at www.tarnow-jazz.pl.
06.11 Tuesday - 12.11 Monday
XXX Polish Festival “Talent Week”
D-4, Rynek, www.paderewski.tarnow.pl. For 25 years now (long before reality
TV shows struck on the idea creating instant pop stars), this annual festival has
given young talents the opportunity to perform on stage, many of whom have never
performed before an audience before, let alone one composed of experts, musicologists, and critics. Talent Week has launched the careers of many national stars,
perhaps foremost among them the well-known Motion Trio. Drop in on one of the 8
days of performances to see the first steps of tomorrow’s potential musical darlings.
Motor sports are a favourite activity in Tarnów and go-carting is taken about
as seriously as you can imagine without quashing the fun. Just west of the Old
Town, Tarnów boasts two adjacent go-karting tracks on ul. Kochanowskiego,
which together probably represent the most exciting and competitive go-carting
complex in Poland. Safe and exhilarating, visitors to the city should seriously
consider taking a spin behind the wheel while in town.
Special Events
12.10 Friday
18.11 Sunday - 22.11 Thursday
Magda Piwowarczyk with “Mano” band
Cecilia’s Tarnów Day
D-4, Tarnów Cultural Centre, Rynek 5. Known for her characteristically soft
voice, Piwowarczyk achieved pop-rock notoriety in the late 90s. Her collaboration
with Mano is something completely different from her previous work however, as
the group will present songs inspired by world music and jazz. Q Concert starts
at 19:30. Tickets 15zł. Available before the event.
Saint Cecilia is the patron saint of sacral music and this event is organised to
coincide with her feast day. For four days Tarnów’s churches will host various
concerts presenting sacral music, as well as accompanying music workshops.
D-4, Tarnów Cultural Centre, Rynek 5. If you aren’t familiar with Polish hardcore
punk band Armia (Army) and their indeed legendary album Legenda (Legend),
here’s a chance to see one of the classics of Polish rock music performed live.
The band’s second studio album was originally released in 1991 and has aged
incredibly well, while the band itself has only gained in popularity and respect in
the over 20 years since Legend’s release. Called a ‘punk symphony’ when it first
came out, the concept album alludes heavily to gnosticism, with references to
Buddhism, Don Quixote, Tolkien, and Samuel Beckett as well. In Tarnów the boys
will dust it off, performing the album that many regard as their best work in its
entirety. Q Time and ticket prices were undecided at the moment.
Local Sports
The big spectator sport in Tarnów is motorcycle speedway, with the local
club Unia Tarnów dating back 50 years and now competing in Ekstraliga - the
highest sweedway league in PL. If you’re not familiar with speedway, this is
motorcycle racing between 4 racers at a time on a dirt oval track. Speedway
motorcycles have only one gear and no brakes, causing drivers to powerslide
through the turns before hitting up to 70mph on the straightaways. Pretty thrilling and a great opportunity to catch some local sports excitement in Poland
without suffering a boring, sloppy (and potentially dangerous) football match.
Unia Tarnów Speedway ul. Zbylitowska 3 (Mościce), tel. (+48) 14
BZ WBK Press Foto 2012
633 02 01, www.unia.tarnow.pl. The Unia Tarnów speedway team competes under the name Tauron Azoty (as dictated by sponsorship) and home
races are held at this track in the Mościce district west of the Old Town. The
track has a fan capacity of 16,000 and tickets can be easily bought before
races at the stadium for 20-45zł. The Ekstraliga season is April-October and
we list the local contests during the shelf life of this guide below (exact start
times are unknown at press time):
D-4, Tarnów Cultural Centre, Rynek 5, www.tck.pl. This fascinating photography exhibit presents the best Polish press photos published during the last
year. The competition is now in its 8th year and set a new record for the number
of works submitted for consideration this year. Try to catch it before it travels
on to other towns in Poland. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Tickets 3/2zł.
September 15: Final of Individual Speedway Junior World Championship
October 7: Final of Polish Speedway Championship (The final in Tarnów
will determine either first or third place, depending on the outcome of the
playoffs on Sept. 9th.)
Exhibitions
13.09 Thursday - 29.09 Saturday
HOTELS
For a city the size of Tarnów there are a surprisingly diverse number of places
to stay to suit just about all tastes and budgets, from the four-star Bristol to
camping and dormitories. Availability is rarely a problem, but that’s not to say
you shouldn’t make a reservation beforehand. If you’re having trouble finding a
place to sleep, the folks at Tourist Information (Rynek 7) are there to help, and
even offer guest rooms themselves.
Upmarket
Bristol C-4/5, ul. Krakowska 9, tel. (+48) 880 47 74 77, www.hotelbristol.
com.pl. Enjoy a sumptuous atmosphere of slightly flamboyant grandeur inside
Tarnów’s most exclusive hotel. Bristol’s immaculate rooms come with minibars,
cable television, spacious beds and a choice of en suite facilities with either a
shower or bath. Extras include plenty of elegant chandeliers, Doric columns that
don’t actually support anything, a solarium, gym and an outrageously pink honeymoon apartment featuring a large Jacuzzi. Q15 rooms (3 singles, 4 doubles,
2 triples, 4 suites, 2 apartments). PTHA6FGKW hhhh
Mid-range
Cristal Park ul. Traugutta 5 (Mościce), tel. (+48) 14 633 12 25, www.
cristalpark.pl. Located beside the Mościce Cultural Centre in Tarnów’s
outlying ‘garden district’, Cristal Park offers a wide range of rooms from basic
Economy to stately Superior, some with small balconies overlooking the local
speedway track, and there’s also a lush red Presidential Suite with a Jacuzzi.
Hotel extras include a billiards table, sauna and a rather fabulous salt room.
A taxi into the centre will set you back about 15zł, or hop on bus no. 9 for a
20min ride. Q95 rooms (95 singles, 90 doubles, 16 triples, 11 apartments).
PTHAR6UGKD hhh
Kantoria D -1, ul. Piłsudskiego 28a, tel. (+48) 14 621 51 24, www.
kantoria.pl. Located inside the Pod Jabłoniami campgrounds just north
of the city centre, Kantoria is a great choice for those who want to enjoy
the outdoors without ‘roughing it’. Adjacent to a park and recreation
centre (including an indoor pool and spor ts facilities), here you’ll find
plenty of opportunities to enjoy the sunshine of PL’s so-called ‘hot spot,’
including the terrace of the hotel itsel f. Inside you’ll find some of the
most com for table rooms in town, with handsome, modern furnishings
TVs and wi fi. Get to the centre and back by bus 30 i f you don’t fancy
the walk. Q12 rooms (3 singles, 3 doubles, 4 triples, 2 apar tments).
THAUGKW hhh
Pod Dębem ul. H. Marusarz 9 B (Rzędzin), tel. (+48) 14 626 00 88,
www.poddebem.tarnow.pl. Built in 2011, Pod Dębem is the new wing of old
standby Zajazd Pod Dębem - the names of which refer to the 10,000 year old
black oak tree stump littering the yard. Found at the bottom of a nearby river and
labouriously transported here, this was apparently once the heights of Tarnów
tourism; fortunately it’s not even the main draw of this outpost a few kilometres
east of the city centre today. That would be the 24 new high-standard, modern
rooms, equipped with large beds, 32” TVs and wireless internet. Conference
facilities have also been added and the handy carpark makes this a good
base for exploring the region. Q24 rooms (23 singles, 20 doubles, 1 suite).
PTHA6UGKW hhh
Podzamcze Al. Tarnowskich 75 (Zabłocie), tel. (+48) 14 627 67 77, www.
podzamcze.eu. Located on St. Marcin’s Hill beneath the castle ruins, this is a
great location, though its 2km distance from the centre means you may want to
catch bus 31 if you don’t have a car or bike to avoid the long hike home. The ten
small, simple rooms are perfectly serviceable and the restaurant is one of the
better in the region as well. Podzamcze also has a mini-spa for guests - basically
a sauna and hot tub with hydro-massage. Q10 rooms (10 singles, 10 doubles).
A6GKDW
Tarnovia A-5, ul. Kościuszki 10, tel. (+48) 14 630 03 50, www.
hotel.tarnovia.pl. One of two communist-era landmark hotels in the city,
the Tarnovia is well-located within easy walking distance of the market
square and offers great views of the adjacent church and charming solar
system fountain. Built in the 1970s (forgive the concrete), the hotel has
made a successful recent effort to modernise and offers rooms at two
standards - economy and premium - depending on your preference. Parking
is nearby and today the hotel is owned by the staff themselves, giving the
whole place an aura of pride lacking in many hotels of a higher standard.
Q127 rooms (36 singles, 82 doubles, 6 apartments). PTHAR
6UGKW hhh
Osteria Bowling Pub D-1, ul. Piłsudskiego 30, tel. (+48) 14 656 60 50,
www.osteria-tarnow.pl. Part of the Osteria restaurant, which serves Italian and
Polish food in the same building as Tarnów’s ‘water park,’ this small side venue
includes two bowling lanes, two billiards tables and a bar. Perfect for a private
party with friends, reservations would be advisable. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri
11:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. Bowling: Mon-Thu 35zł/hr; Fri, Sat, Sun 50zł/
hr, after 18:00 55zł/hr. Billiards: Mon-Thu 12zł/hr; Fri, Sat, Sun 14zł/hr.
Go-carting
Concerts
www.inyourpocket.com
In association with
Armia plays “Legenda”
kwazarbowling.pl. This strange, secluded entertainment centre on the way to
St. Martin’s Hill, features six bowling lanes (surrounded by a fantasy celestial
panorama featuring angels and winged horses - it’s sweet), six billiards tables,
a large cafeteria, bar, darts and plenty of coin-slot machines. Billiards - 13-16zł/
hr, bowling - 39-57zł/hr depending on day of week (includes free shoe rental
for four, each additional pair 3zł). QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 01:00.
ArtFest
5, tel. (+48) 14 688 88 88, www.tck.pl. This small cultural centre regularly
hosts art exhibits (particularly photography) and other events, as well as functioning as a cafe. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Admission fee depends on the
exhibition, check website for details.
30.11 Friday
Kwazar Al. Tarnowskich 69 (Zabłocie), tel. (+48) 14 626 24 69, www.
23.11 Friday - 02.12 Sunday
www.gm.tarnow.pl. Now in its 8th year, this annual festival organised by the
BWA has grown to become the most important autumn festival in Tarnów. Multidisciplinary, multimedia and involving plenty of audience participation, the idea
behind ArtFest is to emulate the same creative process as jazz improvisation by
bringing together various forms of art at the same time in the presence of the
public to create something new and spontaneous. The programme will take place
in various locations around Tarnów and include concerts, exhibitions, happenings,
spectacles, workshops and more. Visit the website for more details.
Tarnów Cultural Centre (Tarnowskie Centrum Kultury) D-4, Rynek
Bowling & Billiards
Daytona Tarnów ul. Kochanowskiego 39 (Strusina), tel. (+48) 516
14 16 00, www.daytona-tarnow.eu. Located right next to Speed Race,
Daytona’s racetrack was designed in cooperation with the best kart driver in
Poland, Seweryn Tobias Szczepanik, and is 50 metres longer in length than its
neighbour. Carts are essentially the same, but prices are steeper, ranging from
39-79zł/30mins depending on your choice of 120cc, 200cc or 270cc cart. Very
serious fun. QOpen 15:00 - 22:00, Fri 15:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
Speed Race ul. Kochanowskiego 30 (Mościce), tel. (+48) 793 08
30 22, www.gokarty-tarnow.pl. This 450m indoor track would certainly
rank as one of the best in the country if it weren’t for the other track next
door. Combined, they represent one of the best places anywhere for amateur
racing enthusiasts, with the chance to participate in numerous events and
competitions. Three types of fast and safe carts are available: 120cc, 200cc
and 270cc. Prices vary from 36-75zł/30mins depending on the car. QOpen
15:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
Ice Skating
TOSiR Ice Skating Rink ul. Traugutta 3a (Mościce), tel. (+48) 14 656
36 76 ext. 29, www.tosir.com.pl. Located in the Mościce district west of
the Old Town, this outdoor ice-skating rink near Cristal Park hotel will be open
from the end of November or early December. Unfortunately, hours and prices
could not be confirmed before press time; we list the hours from last year to
you an idea of what to expect: Open every day 09:00-19:45, last entrance at
19:00. Admission 4/2.50zł for 45mins. Skate rental 3.50zł.
Swimming
TOSiR Aqua Park (Park Wodny) D-1, ul. Piłsudskiego 30, tel. (+48)
14 621 43 92, www.tosir.com.pl. Tarnów has a stellar water park just north
the Old Town near the city’s campgrounds, including athletic and recreational
swimming pools, a 90m water slide, a wide ‘family slide’, a special children’s
area, 2 Jacuzzis, dry and steam saunas, massaging jets, geysers and more.
Also in the building you’ll find the Osteria restaurant and its bowling and billiards
halls. Q Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. Last entrance one hour
before closing. 10/6.50zł per hour; Mon-Fri 06:00-08:00: 7.50/4.50zł per hour.
HOTELS
U Jana D-4, Rynek 14, tel. (+48) 14 626 05 64, www.hotelujana.pl. An
excellent choice, with 12 apartments boasting views of the market square, all
at a great value with prices varying based on size and standard. Where they
get all these oil paintings is beyond comprehension, but there’s a barrage of
them on the ground floor and you’ll find some in your quarters as well. Suites
are stylised quite tastefully to represent the Renaissance history of the building, with large beds in handsome frames, wooden floors and modern facilities
including satellite television and wifi. Unbeatable location, and the downstairs
restaurant is more reliable than many in the area as well. Q12 rooms (12
apartments). THA6GKW
Willa Krzyska ul. Krzyska 52b (Krzyż), tel. (+48) 14 620 11 34, www.
willakrzyska.pl. A choice of seven bright, modern rooms and apartments with
a distinctly business-class feel inside this villa-like building 15 minutes north of
the city centre. Facilities include card-operated security, broadband internet,
cable television, a splendid apartment with a big bath and kitchen, parking,
and English-style pub and a relaxing garden. Popular with business travellers
during the week, booking in advance is highly recommended. Taxis in and out
of the centre cost about 10zł. Alternatively, the numbers 6, 15 and 206 buses
go right past the front door. Q7 rooms (6 singles, 6 doubles, 1 apartment).
HAR6GKW hhh
Budget
B&B Leliwa ul. Esperantystów 34 (Zabłocie), tel. (+48) 661 97 47
49, www.leliwa.pl.tl. Stay under the ward of the Skoczyla family in this
two-floor detached house in a residential neighbourhood 2km from the centre.
The downstairs apartment includes 2 bedrooms, a living room, kitchen and
bathroom, while the upstairs comprises 3 bedrooms with a common bathroom. Hardly the heights of modernity, here you still have plenty of privacy
and more than enough to keep you comfortable, including wifi, a ground floor
terrace and backyard with some play equipment for kids. Accommodation
can be arranged by the day or the week and represents a great value. Hop
on bus 31 if your dogs are barking. Q7 rooms (1 single, 2 doubles, 3 triples,
1 apartment). T6GW
All you need
to know
about where
to sleep, eat,
drink, visit
and enjoy
Online
Tourist Information Centre D-4, Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 14 688 90 90,
www.tarnow.travel. Clean, carpeted accommodation upstairs from the Tourist
Information Centre, these basic, renovated rooms include everything you need
for a pleasant budget stay right in the heart of the city. The en suite bathrooms
come with showers only but there are surprise added bonuses such as wireless
internet throughout. The right price in precisely the right location. Q4 rooms (4
singles, 4 doubles, 1 triple). THAGW
Zajazd Pod Dębem ul. H. Marusarz 9 B (Rzędzin), tel. (+48) 14 626 96
20, www.zajazd.poddebem.tarnow.pl. The budget older brother of Pod Dębem,
this place has been operating since the mid-80s and aside from modernising the
televisions and internet access in each room, not much else has changed. That
said, it might be worth saving the extra coin if you don’t mind dated wallpaper.
Located 3 kilometres east of the Old Town, there’s a convenient parking lot right
there, as well as a busstop out front, plus a nice restaurant wherein you’ll enjoy
the breakfast buffet included in the price. Q26 rooms (26 singles, 20 doubles,
3 triples). THA6UGKW
Publisher: WIYP Sp. z o.o.,
ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot
tel. 58 555 08 31
tarnow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Editorial
Writer/Editor Garrett Van Reed
Research Manager Anna Hojan
Researchers Aneta Roszak, Maria Rulaff
Events Klaudia Mampe
Design Tomáš Haman
Photography Garrett Van Reed,
Krzysztof Gzyl - Courtesy of Tarnów Tourist
Information Centre
Print
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Sales Director:
Małgorzata Drząszcz 606 749 676
Distribution:
Bartosz Matyjas 58 555 98 18
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright WIYP 1999/2012.
Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved.
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Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editor’s note
In Your Pocket would like to thank the Tarnów Tourist
Information Centre for their help and support in
producing this guide.
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is
independent from paid-for advertising. We have
made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the
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Autumn - Winter 2012
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