From bouncer Wed Jan 1 12:54:50 1997

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From: talon-owner@dsm.org
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Subject: Talon Digest for 01/01/97
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[Happy New Year! -talon mgr]
Talon Digest for Wednesday, January 1, 1997
Moderated by Todd Day, today@dsm.org
Moderator's sole purpose is to keep the discussion moving and make
this digest look nice. While the Moderator reserves the right to
remove all or parts of submissions that are deemed not to meet this
criteria, the Moderator is not in any way responsible for the accuracy
or truth of the content of this digest. Poster is solely responsible
for comments made on the digest. These comments do not necessarily
represent the views of the poster's mail provider. This compilation
is protected by copyright, and may not be reproduced for profit.
When posting, please target your audience by supplying one of the
following subject keys at the beginning of your subject line. Only
use the keys when the post does not apply to other types of cars.
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[NT] - non-turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
[1G] - first generation (90-94)
[2G] - second generation (95+)
[AT] - automatic tranny (manual is assumed unless specified)
Example: question about first gen turbo engine would give [1G,T]
Today's Topics:
1) Joe Jankord
Spark Plug Gap / Marc's Talon
2) Gary Clouse
Hyundai mitsu engines
3) Thomas Harrington 2GT Autocrossing Setup for 95+ Eclipse GS-T
4) Aaron J. Becker
Shifter Mod, 92 4bolt, fuel cut<15
5) Warren Tsai
Re: **Do NOT crush that BOV!!!**
6) Tom Stangl
[T,1G] Porting Exhaust/O2
7) Shindley
PMS for sale
8) Scott Ritter
[2G,T] fuel tank service. Another losing tale...
9) Laughn Rowe
Cold start whine
10) Jim McKenna
Re: BOV idea response
11) Hank A Bell
[2G,T,FWD] I Fixed My Camber!
13) Mark Hessler
Interesting Neighbors
14) Andrew S. Brenner Neat picture online
16) Michael J Myers
crushed blow-off valve
17) Kristian Steenstrup Turbos in Denver
18) Aaron J. Becker
RE: Do Not crush that BOV
19) Dave Skolnick
[2G] '97 turbo Spyder
Submissions:
mailto:talon@dsm.org
Subscriptions:
talon-request@dsm.org (send the word "help" in a message
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
ftp://talon:eclipse@ftp.dsm.org
IRC chat: irc.dsm.org, channel #dsm, nightly at 6pm Pacific
You may request back issues by sending this line to talon-request@dsm.org
get talon-digest digest/YYMMDD.txt
Upcoming Events: (send new events to today@dsm.org in similar two-line
format)
Jan 12, 1997 - Mid-Winter Test-N-Tune at ATCO Raceway, NJ. Gates open at
9am.
Cold air = HP!!! More info croft@bc.cybernex.net
May 16, 1997 - 5th ANNUAL DIAMOND STAR SHOOTOUT 10-4 at Norwalk
Raceway Park,
Norwalk, Ohio. Don't bug DaveB until he gets all the details worked out.
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date:
From:
Tue, 31 Dec 1996 16:29:17 -0500
Joe Jankord <Joe.Jankord@wmich.edu>
Subject: Spark Plug Gap / Marc's Talon
Message-ID: <#1>
Fellow DSM'ers:
I hope that everyone has a Happy New Year. I am wondering about the
effects of spark plug gapping. I am running high boost with the 16g so
my plugs are gapped less than the stock gap of .035". Are there any
negative results associated with running too small of a gap? How can you
tell if the gap is too small?
I just received my new issue of Turbo Magazine and was very pleased to
see Marc's Talon in there! It is a great article and has great pictures
in it. It seems that Turbo is trying to make up for their negative
comments earlier on the DSM's. Anyway, I just wanted to congratulate
Marc on the awesome story on his Talon. So run out and pick up a copy of
this issue, but just remember be "4 WARND" when you turn to page 80!
Joe Jankord
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 16:40:13 -0600
From: Gary Clouse <gclouse@mail.state.tn.us>
Subject: Hyundai mitsu engines
Message-ID: <#2>
for many years, mitsubishi has manufactured "swiss-movement"
drivelines ... that is engine/transaxle unit that were sold to other
manufacturer who build the rest of the to bolt the driveline into. These
units are usually identical from the mitsu units except for part numbers
and company name.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 15:02:41 -0800
From: Thomas Harrington <tomh@lvccld.lib.nv.us>
Subject: 2GT Autocrossing Setup for 95+ Eclipse GS-T
Message-ID: <#3>
Well I need some advice from the some wise autocrossers. I have a 1995
Eclipse GS-T. Right now I have NO mods at all. Factory air filter,
factory tires... name it it's from the factory.
Here is were you come in... I have not been autocrossing in one year.
I'm not sure what the rules allow but what should I do to be competetive
in BStock or ???SP ( I say ??? because I'm not sure if it is 'D' or 'B'
). I'm between BS and BSP depending upon how comfortable I want to be
racing ( see last weeks seat discussion ).
I do have a set of rims from a 1990 Eagle Talon AWD but No tires. I'm
leaning toward BFG R1s.
What size tires work best. What pressure? Wheel Alignment? Exaust
options ( how about a strait pipe? ) What special pixie dust can I put
in the gas to make me 5 second quicker?
Sorry for the bandwidth...
Tom Harrington
Autocrossing a FWD car again.... Ohhh Joy.. :-(
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 18:09:43 -0500
From: "Aaron J. Becker" <aaron@misco.com>
Subject: Shifter Mod, 92 4bolt, fuel cut<15
Message-ID: <#4>
Well, I just got done doing the Shifter Mod and I have a few ideas to
share. First I think they mean "Four -1" washers with
5/16"
hole dia." It’s hard to find a 1" washer with a 5/8" hole. You can
also use washers slightly bigger than 1" in overall diameter in fact I
would suggest it. I also got a nylon washer with a 9/16" hole from the
hardware store. The nylon washer is not as thick as a metal washer and
works great with the nylon bushings. Also get some loctite thread
locker for the shifter nut because you won’t want to tighten that nut
all the way. If you tighten the nut all the way you're likely to get
slow molasses like shifts. If you have a chance get 8 rubber washers
and putting them where the grommets used to be (i.e. in contact with the
top and bottom of the shifter base). They don’t allow any more movement
but they make the shifter a little less noisy. Don’t forget to lub
everything back up as you put it back together. By the way great job on
the Shifter Mod page!
My 92 Laser AWD LSD has the 4 bolt rear axle and it was manufactured in
September of 91. Looks like I need a 20G to take advantage of the
axle;). Sorry about your 4 bolt deal failing through Todd but, at least
you already have the 20G!
I have also had trouble with fuel cut at temps less than 15deg. F. I
thought it might have been a leak in my intake which I fixed but that
wasn’t the problem. I have also replaced my O2 sensor since then and
it’s not the problem. I didn’t replace it because of the fuel cut but,
because the heater on the sensor wasn’t working. Correct me if I’m
wrong but, at WOT the computer doesn’t give a hoot about your O2 sensor
it is just looking at your MAS. Todd? So I think if your worried that
your O2 sensor is giving your bad performance at WOT it probably isn’t
your O2 sensor. I’m trying the stock thermostat during the winter I’ll
let you know if it gets rid of the fuel cut at low temps.
[Fuel trim is learned using the oxy sensor. You are right that the
computer ignores the oxy sensor at WOT, but a bad oxy sensor can
affect WOT via fuel trim. -talon mgr]
Happy New Year.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 31 Dec 96 15:34:43 PST
From: warranty@corp.cirrus.com (Warren Tsai)
Subject: Re: **Do NOT crush that BOV!!!**
Message-ID: <#5>
Hmm,
Jim McKenna suggested moving the BOV's vacuum reference to BEFORE the
TB instead of behind it as in the factory setup.
I agree it will probably help the BOV to stay closed under high boost
because now there is no loss of pressure due to TB restriction so
the pressure on top and bottom of the BOV is essentially equal.
BUT! Am I missing something? How in the world would the BOV open without
vacuum?!?!?! We only have vacuum behind the throttle plate, no?
Please correct me if I'm wrong. Sounds like you might have as well
welded the BOV flange shut because now the BOV will never get enough
vacuum to open....
Warren
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 15:42:18 -0800
From: Tom Stangl <toms@netscape.com>
Subject: [T,1G] Porting Exhaust/O2
Message-ID: <#6>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Is there a FAQ or anything available on how/what/where to port the exhaust,
O2, or Turbo housing? I'm going to (eventually) buy a downpipe and when I
have everything apart I might as well do a bit of port work.
Something with pictures would be great (I'm sure I'm pushing my luck),
but descriptions/instructions would be helpful too.
Funny you should say this ;-) I already HAVE pics of before/after a
mild porting on my site - I just need to turn them into a VFAQ - that
will have to wait until AFTER my car is back together.
The pics of my engine teardown, turbo, etc, are at
http://www.best.com/~talonts/proj-pics/teardown
The porting VFAQ, and the turbo removal VFAQ, along with several others,
should be posted by the end of January, hopefully.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 17:15:13 -0800
From: Shindley <shind001@maroon.tc.umn.edu>
Subject: PMS for sale
Message-ID: <#7>
IG-T
I want to sell my PMS and EFI mass air sensor from my '92 GSX. I bought
both last summer and have used them for about 4 months. I paid $1450
for both. Will sell both for $1200 incl. shipping.
Email if interested: shind001@maroon.tc.umn.edu
Thanks,
Rick
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 20:17:30 -0500
From: Scott Ritter <sritter@BBN.COM>
Subject: [2G,T] fuel tank service. Another losing tale...
Message-ID: <#8>
Got the recall service done on my 95 GSX last week. That and a new set of
shifter cables (sucker was still rattling, and my rare-earth magnet kludge
kept confusing migratory waterfowl). Well, at least the shifter appears stable
now...
I called the service dept. at the end of the day to see if the car was ready.
"Yes, but we'll be seeing you again..." What?! Turns out the sending unit
"needed to be replaced" during the operation and none was in stock. At least
they were aware of it & told me themselves. I did get a full tank of gas
(actually, I won't know for sure until I refill - but I do trust my service
dept's good *intentions*). Anyway, my fuel pump's being whistling like a sack
of sparrows ever since. I've let 'em know, but has anyone got any ideas what
might lead to this?
Regardless, consider finding a mechanic with a number of these recall services
under his (/her) belt, and maybe even going through the TSB together with him
before dropping off your baby.
On a couple of other notes:
1. Ira's magnetic kill switch trick looks really neat. Thanks for the idea,
Ira!
2. *** WARNING *** this is an absurdly unrelated and gratuitous plug, but hey,
there's non-ECU code hacking to be done, too... If anyone's interested in
real-time audio effects for their PC, I've posted my debut (a demo) at:
ftp://ftp.ultranet.com/pub0/m/mah/rsp/RSP.ZIP
/Scott Ritter 95 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 17:23:35 -0800
From: Laughn Rowe <lonrowe@concentric.net>
Subject: Cold start whine
Message-ID: <#9>
> Got my 2G Talon AWD back from South Shore Mitsu this evening. Per Warren
> Tsai's posting on this digest, I requested that the following parts be
> replaced to remedy the cold start whine:
This is my second request. Could someone please send me the original
post about the cold start whine? My 95 TSi has this really bad and I
joined the digest after the origianl post. Thanks
L. Rowe
95 Talon TSi
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 05:19:59 GMT
From: Jim McKenna <jfm127@email.psu.edu>
Subject: Re: BOV idea response
Message-ID: <#10>
>Where did you tap?
OK, what I did was tap into one of the vaccum connections on the FRONT of
the TB in 1990 DSM's (for 91+ I believe it would be one of the first two
from the front of the manifold). This connection reads boost pressure from
before the throttle plate. Quite a few DSMers have emailed me for more
info, but there is a potential problem which I did not address (thanks
Fred!). Give this some thought: In order for the new connection to sense
vaccum and open up the CBV, something has to give. What gives is the
throttle plate. This is why my CBV now opens more slowly. If you have
ever completely disconnected your CBV, you'll hear the sound of the plate
"flapping" when you get off the boost because the trapped pressure has no
other place to go. In this case, that flapping is much less extreme, but
it is still there. I really don't believe that this mod I propose can do
ANY harm whatsoever, it can *ONLY* help, but I do have a solution. A few
days ago, I was thinking about how I could use the pressure reading from
before the TB, and the vaccum reading from the intake manifold, to create
the perfect CBV. Using a "T" connection, and two one-way aquarium check
valves, I think I may have found a way. By putting one valve inline with
the boost hose so that air only flows "out" of it, and putting one in the
original reference line so that air (vaccum) is only allowed to flow "in",
you can then connect these two lines with a "T" connection and run it right
to the CBV! Essentially, this is a cheap way of accomplishing what GReddy
and HKS do with their BOV's which have seperate boost and vaccum
connections. I guess they saw this long before I did, but that's why
they're HK$ huh?
So, what do you think? Any and all suggestions and discussion on this are
appreciated! It's real early in the morning now, but I'm going out for a
little spin in the BlakRoket to test out my new found power. I'll let you
all know how this new experiment works!
Jim McKenna*jfm127@email.psu.edu*
BOOSTED 1990 FWD Laser RS Turbo
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 00:13:11 -0600 (CST)
From: Hank A Bell <hbell@tiger.lsuiss.ocs.lsu.edu>
Subject: [2G,T,FWD] I Fixed My Camber!
Message-ID: <#11>
I DID IT!
I saved myself $345! I can't believe my redneck approach worked!
Here's the scoop: Is there a lot of 2nd generation owners out there
(Turbo, NT, FWD, AWD) that have lowered their car "considerably", and have
noticed a significant increase in negative camber/toe in a harsh manner?
Well, if u have, then read on.
Well, it all started after I lowered my car with Suspension
Technique springs. The ST's lowered my car 1.5 inches total, and I was
very happy with that. I didn't notice a severe negative effect of the
lowering, that is, until I got on some grooved pavement near the state
capitol in Baton Rouge, Louisiana. The rear of the car would bounce,
(bad struts), and it would pull from side to side. Also, on severe turns,
it would have much more oversteer than stock.
When I looked at it, I could see a slight offness, if u will.
My dad followed behind me to look at it, and he said that it was off
bad. I went to Steve @Alamo's shop, and he said that it looked to be off
by about -3 degrees or more. Steve fully adjusted the bottom camber adj.
spots, and it seemed to help a little. It cured some toe in somehow.
I went home, and tried to shim the bolts out. The most I could
get with flat washers was of little or no effect. I almost gave up and
paid the $350 that ARCHER BROS. wanted.
I don't think so, Hanky don't play that. Today, 12/31, I went
on a mission, to save myself $345. I went to Pep Boys, and they didn't
have it. After 5 more places, I tried a special bolt place. I bought
8 new bolts, M10x35mm, 8 lockwashers, 50 flatwashers, and 12 galvanized
beveled washers. Sounds ridiculous, but it works. Haven't tried it
on autox or the 1/4, but I'm sure it'll hold up.
Check my page Http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/3683/camber.html
for the complete FAQ. L8R. Sorry for the long post. I did it!
(U owe me ph5)
I've updated my 2nd homepage to have pics of my horse. Sorry if
it's not DSM related, but a lot of people have been askin' me 'bout it.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/3683
Click on the "My Horse" button. THANX!
I wonder if a K&N would get any more out of him?
Hank "That's Mister Camber To You" Bell
IRC=RUFRIDR
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 04:41:54 -0500
From: Mark Hessler <mhessler@engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Interesting Neighbors
Message-ID: <#13>
Hi all. I really have no reason to post this, as it's really trivial,
but given my (our) current situation, it's kinda cool. I live in
Bloomfield Hills, MI, in a little subdivision with about 70 houses. My
family was one of the first ones in here, very near the front, and we've
been here for about ten years now. When the people that used to live
behind us moved in (moved out about 4 years ago), we had dinner with
them a few times. The man, Mr. Ohinoee (phonetic spelling) worked for
Mitsubishi, and he and his wife were very nice. I recently found out
why they moved away. It turns out that they moved to Illinois because
of his job. He was promoted to PRESIDENT OF DSM AMERICA! As far as I
know, he still is. Cool! If only I'd known then (Saaaaay, could you
get me a discount on those 20Gs?? ;) But alas, I was DSMless back
then. My loss. Anyway, sorry to all who found this stupid and
pointless, I just thought it was interesting that I lived next door to
the president of DSM and didn't even know it.
Mark Hessler
'90 ETTsiAWD Fosgate Comp Car
(Back to 16 psi after a little chat with DaveB. Thanks!)
PS - Happy New Year! (That '90 sounds a bit older now........ ;)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 03:57:21 -0500
From: "Andrew S. Brenner" <abrenner@tezcat.com>
Subject: Neat picture online
Message-ID: <#14>
Just wanted to let you guys know that I had to drive my GSX through central
Illinois on Monday, and I happened to pass the exit for the DSM plant in
Normal.
I had my digital camera in the car, so I couldn't resist stopping on the
shoulder and taking a picture of a "Mitsubishi Speedway" road exit sign.
You can see the picture on the bottom of the page at URL
http://www.scoopman.com/me.html.
Too bad I didn't have the time to take the exit and see where my car was
born -- has anyone taken this exit?
Andy
95 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 06:01:59 -0600 (CST)
From: Michael J Myers <mimyers@prairie.nodak.edu>
Subject: crushed blow-off valve
Message-ID: <#16>
Jim, if you connect up the blow-off valve to pre-throttle body, it won't
recieve a vacuum when the throttle body closes, won't open, defeating the
entire purpose of having it there in the first place.
My experience: I crushed my blow-off valve till the pipe was slightly
above the canistor, just enough room to get the hose on. Makes really
cool sound, didn't notice much in performance. Idle quality went down
slightly, but it would idle on its own. Left it like that for a month
before I relized my milage went down 2-3 mph. Car was also running
richer. So I through my cap and a pliers in the glovebox, when I want to
whistle, takes 5 minutes to switch. YMMV.
-Mike
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 10:43:41 -0700 (MST)
From: Kristian Steenstrup <kris@mincom.com>
Subject: Turbos in Denver
Message-ID: <#17>
I have a 1990 Eclipse GSX Manual with a siezed Turbo.
I would like to know what (economical) alternatives there are for a
replacement. OEM, or rebuilt turbos?
Are there performance turbos priced less than OEM or rebuilds?
What warranties come with the choices?
Are there good repairers in Denver, or alternatively is Turbo replacement a
DIY project for the reasonably competent with a set of sockets and screw
drivers?
Should I be worried about the cause of this on a 85K mile car or should it
be expected?
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 13:43:22 -0500
Subject: RE: Do Not crush that BOV
Message-ID: <#18>
Don’t touch the vacuum hose on your BOV. The hose has to be connected
AFTER the throttle body. When the throttle body plate closes, that is
when you want your BOV to open. Jim, if you reference your BOV to
another boost source before your throttle body, you will effectively
disable your BOV. You need your BOV to open when the throttle plate
closes and a vacuum is created in the throttle body. On the other side
of the throttle plate all the air that was coming in smashes against the
plate and builds up in the intercooler piping. This air has no way out
except back though the turbo in the wrong direction! The BOV opens when
it sees this vacuum in the throttle body and lets the air out instead of
going out backwards though the turbo. The only time your setup will
work is when you step on the throttle after shifting gears. By this
time your turbo has already been slowed down, or worst case is spinning
backwards! This set up will significantly increase boost lag and will
be harder on your turbo. Crushing the BOV will help your car idle with
the BOV hose disconnected, which definitely decreases your 1/ 4 mile
times by several tenths. It may also help you run high boost levels
without letting air past the BOV. On the street it probably doesn’t
hurt too much to run with the BOV crushed some. It will not open as
soon or as wide as the stock, so it will probably increase your turbo
lag a little and put a little more strain on the turbo during shifts.
My advice is get two BOV’s: crush one for racing with the BOV hose off,
and, keep one stock for normal operation. Jim, tell us more about your
problem and maybe we can figure out another solution.
[The turbo will never spin backwards. -talon mgr]
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 13:39:33 -0500
From: Dave Skolnick <skolnick@mnsinc.com>
Subject: [2G] '97 turbo Spyder
Message-ID: <#19>
I have a new (well, 6000 miles since October) Eclipse Spyder GS-T. Great car,
stock with no real plans to mod anything (although the digest is really getting
my interest).
Top down, this car is the best I have ever had. Top up, you cannot see squat
when trying to back. I can live with this, but wonder if anyone is making a
hardtop. It would be nice to put a solid roof with a real full size back glass
for winter. Any leads?
dv
------------------------------
From bouncer Thu Jan 2 13:36:29 1997
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id NAA16489
for talon-digest-approved on Thu, 2 Jan 1997 13:36:23 -0800
Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 12:00:05 -0800
Sender: owner-talon
Precedence: list
Talon Digest for Thursday, January 2, 1997
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) RandyNet
All dsms, Balancer belt (or Timing belt B)
2) Jack Zhe
4 WARND/Shifter Mod
3) Ian Jordan
Winshield wiper/Cruise control lever [1G]
4) Alamola
assorted comments
5) Vince Chiaro
[1G] creaks and rattles
6) The4Bangr
PHONE CONTACT
7) Dean
Re:Shifter Mod Page
8) Chris Hallford
Paint chips rusting.
9) Dan Warren
Snow Tires
10) Shindley
parts sale
11) Dan Warren
Nokian snow tires
12) LIMP BISCUIT
Sakmtorcng
13) Jim McKenna
MORE CBV stuff...
14) Turbo Mike
Satan/2g tank recall
15) Bob Fischer
1G T awd auto
FPR solenoid
16) James Oxley
Re: BOV idea response
17) Mike Cornwell
(2G,T,FWD) New Tranny, Dash Lights, IRC
18) Pete
transfer case part II / dsm support net : )
19) Nathan Todd Pharr re: Hyundai parts usage
20) Greg Clayton
[1G T] Oil return line oil leak
21) Tom Stangl
Stripped exh stud/oil line holes?
22) Btalont
Top speed....
23)
24)
25)
26)
27)
29)
30)
31)
32)
33)
34)
35)
Frank Williamson
FS: Power Antenna from 92 Eclipse
Scott Borders
Stumbling, upper intercooler pipe [2G,T]
SRS3%LPCNO%CTS
DSS - New Owner!
robrien
digest member?
Joe Jankord
Buschur's 3" Exhaust & State Police
Victor DelCol-YEGR07 [2G,T] ECM Code Reader
Warren Tsai
Re: Cold start whine
Wallace Tam
How do I know I got the right rear end?[2G,T]
murari
Galant factory manuals FS
Ian Jordan
Starter kill methods
Pete Turley
dsm help page
Vince Chiaro
[1G] performance shocks?!? which?
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
9am.
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 16:56:11 -0500
From: RandyNet@aol.com
Subject: All dsms, Balancer belt (or Timing belt B)
Message-ID: <#1>
I have read a few posts about new TIMING BELTS failing because of an old
BALANCER BELT flying apart and causing the timing belt to slip. I had the
same problem myself.
The balancer belt is sooooo easy to replace if you are doing the timing belt
job. However, if you did not know it was there you might not ever notice or
see it. Many 4 cylinder twin cam engines do not have a balance shaft or belt
as part of their design, ie, your average honda or toyota engine. Therefore
some "general" mechanics might forget about it if you dont remind them.
The moral of the story is: I feel that both belts should be replaced every
40k to 50k. The balancer belt is only another 25 bucks or so (for the part)
and should be mandetory if any timing belt work is done. So, make sure you
or your mechanic don't overlook it! Ask your mechanic for the used belts and
throw them away yourself if you want to be extra sure. And remember, a
couple of hundred dollars of belt work is much cheaper than a couple of
thousand for engine work!
It hurts me to read about these great cars being stranded because of those
belts!
RandyNet@aol.com 91Talon Tsi FWD Bright Red! in Dallas TX!........
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 1 Jan 97 17:00:40 -0500
From: Jack Zhe <z@clarityconnect.com>
Subject: 4 WARND/Shifter Mod
Message-ID: <#2>
>I just received my new issue of Turbo Magazine and was very pleased to
>see Marc's Talon in there! It is a great article and has great pictures
>in it. It seems that Turbo is trying to make up for their negative
>comments earlier on the DSM's.
Well, MAYBE. Did eveyone catch the last paragraph. That REALLY p*ssed
me off. It starts off by saying "Now Marc has his sights set on
mid-11-second timeslips by the middle of '97." Then the final sentence
says "If Marc finds a way to keep the transmission, transfer case and
axles from breaking, we're sure he'll reach his goal."
Man, what a bunch of BS. They write an entire BEAUTIFUL article on a
BEAUTIFUL car (perfect plate and all!) and then slip that line in.
Thanks a lot Michael Ferrara. Congratulations to Marc though on an
otherwise very nice write-up. Dave got some much-deserved publicity in
there too.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Shifter Mod~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I joined the ranks with the modified shifter last week. Pretty easy to
do, I like the feel. Good mod.
Even if you do not perform the mod, I would STRONGLY suggest everyone go
out and check their shift linkage! The cable discussed in the mod was
WAY off in my car! The cable was about an inch too long! No WONDER I
was having trouble with 5th and Reverse. I have a strong suspicion this
may be why 2nd has been giving me a hard time even with the new tranny.
We'll find out at the track next Spring. 5th and reverse have been
difficult ever since the first tranny re-build over a year ago (done by
Burdick Mitsu in Syr). 4th gear also vibrated very badly since then.
Now that the cables have been adjusted, all 3 of those problems are
HISTORY. It appears that Burdick doesn't know how to adjust the cables,
nor does the new dealer I took it to for the last re-build. "If you want
it done right, do it yourself."
I checked the other cable too, it was just about right, I only had to
tighten it one turn to make it perfect.
Jack Zhe
NY Tag: ZHE WIZ (but I like 4 WARND better! :-)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 15:06:08 -0700
From: ijordan@starfire.lpl.arizona.edu (Ian Jordan)
Subject: Winshield wiper/Cruise control lever [1G]
Message-ID: <#3>
Does anyone know where I can get the windshield wiper/cruise control lever
from a '93 DSM? I'm adding cruise control to my car and would like to keep a
stock look with the original lever. The dealer wants about $160 for that
thing. Of course, the dealer also tells me there is no such thing as a '93
Laser w/o cruise....
Ian Jordan
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 19:00:30 -0500
From: Alamola@aol.com
Subject: assorted comments
Message-ID: <#4>
"Any one who plans to change their turbo should replace the heat shield
bolts with high strength (or stainless steel) ASAP or you may never get the
old ones out."
I would caution against using stainless steel hardware with cast iron/mild
steel manifolds. The stainless is prone to gauling(sp?) and if you think it's
difficult to drill-out a mild steel bolt you haven't seen 'nuthin yet. If you
do use stainless(or mild steel for that matter) use a little bit of
anti-seize on the bolt before tightening.
Russ Harris: I think I have the motor mount you're looking for.....email me
direct or call me at 504-767-6188.
"EVERYONE do yourselves another favor. Buy a can of brake clean. Buy a
can of RTV sealant. Get an old butter knife. Now jack your car up and clean
the back side of the yoke where it goes into the transfer case, CLEAN it
good. All clean? Dry it off and let all the brake clean evaporate. Now put
a bunch of that RTV you bought on the butter knife and smear it all over the
back side of that yoke."
I agree that the yoke has to be spotlessly clean. I usually go a bit further
and use a bit of steel wool to remove any corrosion/burrs from the shaft and
install a new rear seal every time the shaft is removed. I use a high temp
grease to coat the spline before insertion into the xfer case seal. This is
the only way I've been able to prevent leaks permanently(I tried RTV to no
avail).
Steve('91 Talon AWD)
Alamo Louisiana
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 16:10:14 -0800
From: Vince Chiaro <chiaro@netcom.com>
Subject: [1G] creaks and rattles
Message-ID: <#5>
Hmmm...strange noises have been coming from my lovely 92 Eclipse GS
(non-turbo) lately. I have been attempting to have passengers locate them
while driving but we can't figure it out. Maybe these are common and someone
can help. Usually, driving on nice, even pavement yeild NO NOISES but if you
go over some sort of defects in the road you can here a rattle coming from
the rear somewhere. It sounds like maybe the back hatch but all seems solid
back there and i just replaced the gas shocks that hold the hatch up about 2
months ago so they should be ok. Maybe the spoiler is getting loose? Is
there a way to tighten it down (i can't seem to find the screws/bolts) it is
the same 3 peice spoiler found on the GSXes and TSi's. I hope someone can
help. Thanks!
Vince.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 19:28:17 -0500
From: The4Bangr@aol.com
Subject: PHONE CONTACT
Message-ID: <#6>
Hi all,
Well since I have been doing this full time things are going great. I have
noticed one thing. Alot of you know that the answering machine picks up on
the fourth ring. Well the trouble is my call waiting beeps once to every 2
rings of the phone. Most of the time by the time I can interupt whomever I
am talking to in order to get the call coming in it is to late because the
caller hangs up thinking he is going to get the machine. If you could wait
to see if the answering machine is actually going to pick up it would help
alot. I do the best I can but I hate to interupt someone to grap another
call, seems rude. I also hate missing the call coming in. Just hope this
helps out. I also just had another line put in so that should help out. I
will use the new line for outgoing calls and the computer.
Thanks and Happy New Year.
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 19:20:00 -0600 (CST)
From: Dean <dmy1382@unix.tamu.edu>
Subject: Re:Shifter Mod Page
Message-ID: <#7>
Aaron,
Ya know when it came to washer part, I just grabbed whatever was in the
toolbox and they worked fine. Thanks for your suggestion, I'll make the
change on the page when I'm back at school. The page has been hit over
1200 times since 12/6/96 so I'm glad to know that fellow DSMers are being
helped.
Dean
ag97@tamu.edu
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 20:38:47 -0500
From: Chris Hallford <challfor@wwonline.com>
Subject: Paint chips rusting.
Message-ID: <#8>
I've got a 92 Talon, and unfortunately there are numerous paint "chips" on
the hood from highway driving, etc. The chips are VERY small, barely bigger
than a pinhead, but there are around 8-12 of them. There are also some very
tiny chips on both the passenger and driver doors. Washing the car recently
(I'm in Toronto, and there can be MAJOR road salt occassionally) I noticed
that the small chips are turning a reddish colour, no bubbling, just a
reddish-orange colour. As I said, they're NOT noticible, as they're very
tiny chips, but I was wondering if this is a sign of rust, and what I should
do to make sure the rust (if that's what it is) doesn't spread through the
WHOLE car. ;(
Regards.
Chris
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 20:15:43 -0500
From: Dan Warren <dwarren@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Snow Tires
Message-ID: <#9>
>PS- all you poor sods w/ the non-turbo 2.0 DOHC have a winter tire
>advantage- you can get 14" base-model wheels and run cool snow tires
>(Hakkapelitta!!) which aren't available for 16"... I think turbo cars
>have bigger brakes making this impossible...?
But you can run 15 inch Chrysler steel rims on a turbo. I know I'm doing
it with my 97 Talon Tsi. Even have the Hakkapelitta's on it. Speedo reads
about 3% high. These are the same 15 inch rims I used on my 91 non-turbo.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 20:04:58 -0600
Subject: parts sale
Message-ID: <#10>
I am attempting to sell my Alamo intercooler, a Cartech fuel pressure
regulator, and the A/C from my 1G,T AWD. Please see the parts trader!
Thanks - Rick
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 21:49:52 -0500
Subject: Nokian snow tires
Message-ID: <#11>
>I can buy Blizzaks from tire shops near my house. Can I say the same about
>Nokian tires?
I have no problem finding them here in Rochester NY. In fact of all places
where I get mine is an auto recycler that specilized in Buicks. They are
the ones who told me to run 4 snows on my 91 Talon and sold me the steel
rims that fit both the 91 I used to have and the 97 Tsi that I drive now.
HAd to replace 2 older snow with new Nokian's at a cost of about $100 each.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 22:02:34, -0500
From: HBRL18B@prodigy.com (LIMP BISCUIT)
Subject: Sakmtorcng
Message-ID: <#12>
Hello all. I am rather new to the digest and had a few ?'s.
[RTP]
1. I am having trouble getting my Cyberdyne AF ratio gauge to give
a proper reading, anybody got some ideas on the best wire/location to
hook up the sensing lead to on a 93 Talon TSi FWD??
2. I also want some peoples suggestions on using synthetic or
regular motor oil. Is it really worth the extra expense?? all
opinions will be greatly appreciated..
ALSO. A local guy is starting to sell performance parts mail order,
he specializes in DSMs but sells parts for other imports as well..
Prices are WAY cheap from what I have seen so far, Manual boost
control kits for 45 bux, white gauge faces for 90 bux, etc etc.. his
Email address is Sakmtorcng@aol.com... email him for more specifics..
Thanks to Todd for great Digest..
Jim Hucks
93 Talon Tsi FWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 04:10:50 GMT
Subject: MORE CBV stuff...
Message-ID: <#13>
OK OK OK, I've heard "the BOV won't open without vaccum" a million
times now. I think my new solution will work much better. To tell you
the truth though, I kinda like the "flapping" sound my throttle plate makes,
and my car's acceleration is now stumble-free and much smoother and
faster. Here are some things to brainstorm about:
Check this out. Make a little drawing. Draw a hollow "T". The bottom
branch goes to the BOV. Now draw an arrow going "up" the right side
(vaccum from the manifold) of the "T" and an arrow going "down" the left
side (boost from the IC pipe) of the "T". Put check valves in these lines to
only allow flow in the specific directions. These represent pressure flow in
the vaccum tubes. Now, the low-pressure intake boost source from the
intake manifold will not reach the BOV and the high-pressure IC source
will. I don't know if all of the pressure will be "seen" though because some
might escape back up the vaccum check valve, but there should be enough
pressure behind the check valve to prevent any loss. Now, when you get
off of the throttle, the other check valve opens up and sucks any excess
pressure that was in those lines out into the manifold (remember, that's the
5/32" hose) and opens up the BOV. Could it work???
Fred Miranda and I have been chatting offline about a solution to this
problem which I think is pretty significant (at least in the 2 cars I tested it
on). What needs to happen here is that the pressure in the vaccum
connection has to rise while still being able to register vaccum, OR we need
to reduce the pressure on the bottom of the diaphram of the BOV. If you'll
notice underneath your BOV, Mitsu actually did incorporate a seperate
boost port for the BOV. It's that little hole next to the valve opening.
FRom Fred: "The only way I see of doing it on the stock valve is to first
plug the port under the valve, then drill a smaller hole. (restriction) Now
somewhere on the outside drill another smaller bleed hole to the area under
the diaphram." So by playing with the hole sizes you could get anything
from full boost to atmospheric pressure on the bottom of the diaphram.
Makes sense. This is no different than bleeding off some pressure from the
wastegate actuator for a boost controller! Trick it into staying closed
longer!
Here's another one. Using a solenoid like the one for the FP regulator inline
with the boost and vaccum lines to the BOV. Use a throttle activated
switch like the one I got from NOS, and you're set!
>This air has no way out except back though the turbo in the wrong
>direction! This set up will significantly increase boost lag and will be
>harder on your turbo.
Never happen! That sucker is spinning at speeds well over 30000rpms (I
think I read 100000 once?)! It's gonna take more than that to stop it! And
I don't know how fast you shift, but I didn't notice any more lag at all!
The GNs and Turbo Regals have never had CBV or BOVs. They have the
advantage in that they are automatics and shift faster than a stick. But
when they get off the boost, you'll still hear that same "flapping" noise that
you will in the DSMs. And as far as I know their turbos are MUCH bigger
and more expensive than ours (for now at least ;-). Why would they want
to destroy them?
>Crushing the BOV will help your car idle with the BOV hose
>disconnected, which definitely decreases your 1/ 4 mile times by several
>tenths. It may also help you run high boost levels without letting air past
>the BOV. On the street it probably doesn't hurt too much to run with the
>BOV crushed some. It will not open as soon or as wide as the stock, so it
>will probably increase your turbo lag a little and put a little more
>strain on the turbo during shifts.
That's fine that it will let you idle and all (my CBV was never a problem
disconnected even before crushing it...), but it still has two problems. 1)
the thing is still going to open because of the pressure differential I
described in my first post. And 2) crushing the CBV makes it less effective
in releasing the air. I don't care about how my car idles. Drivability means
nothing to me (ask OX and Croft about my suspension on Rt. 80 to the
ShootOut last year...heh heh). BUT, this stumbling thing makes me want
to drive my car into a wall! Finding a solution to that, led me to my
conclusions which also happen to help with the idle problem. The key is
to EQUALIZE THE PRESSURE ON BOTH SIDES OF THE CBV
DIAPHRAM. All problems will then be solved!
IMHO, the IDEAL way to solve this is to modify the CBV to relieve
pressure under the diaphram. This benefits the car at idle, part-throttle,
and most importantly WOT. I volunteer to do the drilling and testing, and
I'll let you all know how it goes. I think I'll try the various check valves
and solenoids first though...
>My advice is get two BOV=EDs: crush one for racing with the BOV hose off,
>and, keep one stock for normal operation.
BTW, try disconnecting the CBV vaccum hose altogether. You'll notice
that the valve opens by itself at anything over 15psi or so. Weak springs
they have.
Jim McKenna
BOOSTED 1990 FWD Laser RS Turbo
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 23:16:04 -0500
From: Turbo Mike <trbomike@pipeline.com>
Subject: Satan/2g tank recall
Message-ID: <#14>
Ok, I already know the "dealer" is a total a$$h0le and screws up more
than he helps. After reading the few horror stories about the fuel
tank recalls already hitting the digest, now I'm afraid to have them
do it. This is a stupid question (since we're dealing with Satan here)
but why does the recall call for removing the exhaust & ABS lines to
drop the tank when digest members have been replacing the pump by lifting
it out of the tank from the rear seat location? Am I missing something?
Since I'm going to get a Dave B pump anyway, I'd rather have Jeff Hill do
the two gaskets when he puts in my pump. Has anyone tried to get the tank
recall kit instead of having the dealer do the service?
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 1 Jan 1997 21:23:39 -0700
From: bob@softwood.com (Bob Fischer)
Subject: 1G T awd auto
FPR solenoid
Message-ID: <#15>
Todd, thanks for the suggestion of checking all the engine grounds. The
one to the battery was a little loose, but it didn't help the problem : (
Can someone do me a big favor?
Please explain to me what the Fuel Pressure Regulator Solenoid actually does?
I have been having an intermittent power loss and have been trying
different things to see what it is.
well, tonight I bypassed the FPR solenoid and drove about 5 miles and the
felt a lot stronger. will this hurt the car to bypass the solenoid?
I don't know for sure if this cured my problem sometimes it does show
itself for a couple of days but I will keep you posted.
something I noticed about the power loss problem is that it seems to step
up or down in increments, in other words, it feels like some one is
increasing or decreasing the throttle at precise incremnts, even when the
throttle is held steady.
iIt does it at idle as well as at a slight load under cruise.
If this wasn't an auto it would probably feel almost like a bucking(yes
I've checked for intake leaks and haven't found any.
I also have an idle problem. I adjust it to about 1100 rpm in neutral and
then about 2 or 3 wekks later it is back upto about 1400 and hitting the
closed throttle cut off. so it starts to surge when I put it in neutral.
All thru this the idle in gear stays at 800 rpm and doesn't change.
any ideas???
Bob Fischer
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 23:34:00 -0800
From: James Oxley <luxjo@thecore.com>
Subject: Re: BOV idea response
Message-ID: <#16>
OK,
Man, I thought I beat this subject to death about a month ago. I thought
about the check valve arrangement, But I could not get it to work in my
mind. Here's why
You have one check valve (CV#1) only allowing pressurized air to go
from before the throttle body to the BOV. The other check valve (CV#2) is
put in the line for the stock BOV vac line and only allows a vac to get
to the BOV and will not allow a pressure to get to the BOV from the
manifold. A tee is put in before connection to the BOV.
A check valve only flows in one direction. Depending on the type of
check valve you get, you can have CV#1 always flowing. It allows boost to
get to the BOV from before throttle body. It also allows vac to suck air
through the check valve from the output side of CV#1 while under vac
in the manifold. This will effectivley reduce the vac going to the BOV,
especially since the vac source it will be sucking, at that point, is
from a source that is under boost and is rapidly trying to escape through
the BOV itself. In other words, effective vac to the BOV may be almost
nill and it may never open. Air will just rush by the BOV diaphram
from before the throttle plate to the manifold.
I think what would be needed is a vac operated valve. This would be put
inline where CV#1 would be. CV#2 would be installed as described. When
The vac operated valve got vac, it would close the line that goes from
before thottle body to BOV. CV#2 would work as before only allowing boost
from before throttle body.
This would give you full vac under decell and full boost from before
throttle plate during accel. Vac switch should be set at close to 20 in
HG vac.
The only problem I could see with this is that if under part throttle
situations, you actually see mild boost before the throttle body, you
would create throttle plate bypass sucking air around the throttle plate
(because vac operated switch would be open at that point).
OX
Uh, OH, one more problem, under boost, CV#2 would flow slightly also,
because it would be under a vac differential between the lower manifold
boost verse the higher, before throttle body, boost. This would slightly
lower the pressure in the line coming from before the throttle body.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 01 Jan 1997 21:58:26 -0800
From: Mike Cornwell <mcornwell@abtechsys.com>
Subject: (2G,T,FWD) New Tranny, Dash Lights, IRC
Message-ID: <#17>
Just got my Talon back from the dealer. Took 15 days to replace the
tranny and clutch. So far so good, though there are a few new noises
that I'll have to be going back for (damn, just spent an hour putting
the K&N, BOV and bleeder back on!).
This morning I installed some new Magnacores that I bought while the car
was in the shop. Don't know if it could be related, but this evening
while driving, all of the dash lights went dark. Stopped to check the
fuse, but it was fine. A few hours later, they magically came on
again... Has this happened to anyone? Could the new plug wires have
caused this?
Lastly, is IRC down? Tried logging into the server tonight, but it just
sits there waiting to connect. I NEED MY IRC!
~Mike in San Diego
IRC --> Tsi_95
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 01:15:10 -0500
From: Pete <ir004861@mindspring.com>
Subject: transfer case part II / dsm support net : )
Message-ID: <#18>
Ok, I found my receipt for an oil change for my transfer case and rear
diff, from 8-23-96. I don't drive my car a lot (5 miles a day, tops). How
hard would it be to prove that the part failed from either improper fluid
levels (they didn't fill it completely) or from wrong lubricant? I don't
want to go in there and yell "hey! you guys f*&#$d up my diff, here's the
bill!" without having a good idea that they were at fault - or a good
chance at making my claim.
or, am I going to have to just eat dirt on the whole deal, and live with
it? It seems kinda funny that my car, that MIGHT have had maybe 600 miles
or so since the diff change, suddenly crapped the xfer case out.
If anyone has had to make a claim vs their local quick lube place, let me
know what you did and if it worked.
I'm going to make a webpage on my site, with a list of members that will
help other members traveling through their area. For example, I'm NOT a
mechanic by any means, but I have jackstands, a decent set of tools, a 1st
gen shop manual (thanks jon!),ability to post on the digest or ask irc
questions, (I felt HELPLESS away from the digest and irc when I was broke
down.) and wouldn't mind a bit helping someone who was having car trouble
in my area.
If anyone else wants to be listed, E-mail me with your location and phone
number. I'll put it on my webpage. before any of us takes a long trip,
print my webpage out - and you will hopefully have some friendly dsm help
if you hit any trouble on the road.
here's hoping for a better new year for all of us, and less breakdowns.
Pete
poorer but wiser
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 01:09:49 -0500 (EST)
From: Nathan Todd Pharr <ntphar@planetx.bloomu.edu>
Subject: re: Hyundai parts usage
Message-ID: <#19>
Hello,
I just wanted to put in my two cents on this whole Hyundai issue. A
good friend of mine who works at the local Mitsu dealer told me on
numerous occasions that Hyundai uses the same *design* of the engines, and
then finds ways to cut costs, and therefore corners. He said that
Hyundais coming in with broken timing belts with 6000, yes 6K miles on
them was not unusualf for a length of time. Just a word to the wise and
wary.
Nate Pharr
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 02:08:16 -0600
From: Greg Clayton <gclayton@revnet.com>
Subject: [1G T] Oil return line oil leak
Message-ID: <#20>
Hello all. My oil return line from the turbo to the oil pan WILL NOT quit leaking.
I've replaced the gaskets, no luck, then the whole line with new gaskets again
and it still leaks. It seems like the bolts keep getting loose. I dont really
want to put thread locker on them because it seems like I might never be able
to get them out again if I do so, the bolts seem weak and so does the thin
metal
of the oil pan. Anyone have a fix for this? Is it a common problem??
Thanks for any suggestions,
Greg
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 00:31:12 -0800
From: Tom Stangl <talonts@best.com>
Subject: Stripped exh stud/oil line holes?
Message-ID: <#21>
Guys, if you have stripped the oil feed line hole in the head, or the
outer 2 exhaust stud holes, and want to fix them RIGHT, I bought a
HeliCoil kit to fix another DSMer's oil feed line (mine aren't stripped,
but I haven't tried to put it back together, either). This kit cost me
$56 with tax, so I need to try to make back SOME of the money.
If you have stripped the outside exh stud holes, or oil feed line hole,
both WERE 10mmx1.25 on 95s, and the 1G exh stud holes can be drilled out
to that size (I think, see below).
I will ship you the HeliCoil kit, if you will send me a $60-70 deposit,
depending on how many inserts you will need. After you return it, I
will send back all but $10 for use, plus cost for the inserts
(NOTE:anyone know where I can order more inserts?!? Cost for them?).
I figure SOMEONE will need this kit, and not want to pay for it, so
could use mine, and I could MAYBE earn back a little of the purchase
price while saving other's money too.
BTW, I am thinking about using this kit to do the outside 2 studs for
the 95 manifold I am installing - can someone verify that there is
enough metal there to drill the 13/32" hole needed for the steel
inserts? I don't want to do it without knowing, and CERTAINLY wouldn't
send this kit to someone without trying it first, or at least knowing it
WILL work.
Tom Stangl
1990 Talon AWD
1992 Laser AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 08:40:08 -0500
From: Btalont@aol.com
Subject: Top speed....
Message-ID: <#22>
Did my annual bonzai run at 4 AM Christmas morning when traffic is
non-existant. Not trusting the speedo and with it being off the scale anyway,
finally got the Bowling's MPH program to calculate my speed via RPM and gear
ratios/tire size (I know my tach is accurate per PMS display) and it worked
out to 151 MPH. This was at 1.1 bar boost, slight head wind and my wife along
for the ride! The car was rock stable too. Can't wait for that 16G. A
reminder about these speeds though, don't try this unless your tires are
rated for that kind of speed, in this case you need a "Z" rating :)
Brian
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 09:19:27 -0600
From: fw@Emss.Com (Frank Williamson)
Subject: FS: Power Antenna from 92 Eclipse
Message-ID: <#23>
For Sale: Power Antenna from 92 Eclipse that I purchased at a salvage
yard for my 91 Talon, but had incompatible plugs on it.
Price: $75 + $5 S&H (what I paid for it).
Frank Williamson
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 10:30:17 +0000
From: "Scott Borders" <sborders@nfinity.com>
Subject: Stumbling, upper intercooler pipe [2G,T]
Message-ID: <#24>
Well, I've been in contact with several list members off-line
regarding this problem, and I believe I posted about it a while back,
too. Unfortunately, even with all the good suggestions, I haven't
had any luck hunting it down. Here's the background:
'96 Talon TSi AWD
GReddy cat-back exhaust
K&N FIPK
Buschur BOV
BOV pipe hacked
Solenoid restrictor removed
New NGK BPR6ES plugs
Magnecore wires
The car will stumble/hesitate at WOT in 2nd and 3rd as RPMs reach the
top of the powerband (around 4500-5000). Sometimes it is very
slight, and others it is more obvious. Boost doesn't drop off
dramatically when the hesitation occurs, but the boost level does
fluctuate slightly. Mileage has been around 18-19 mpg since I picked
up the car 6 months ago, and 0-60 performance according to the G-tech
isn't exactly stellar (a best of 7.20 with all my mods; a friend with
a '95 FWD that only has a K&N was able to turn 6.87). Oh, the
problem also seems to be more pronounced at colder ambient temps.
Since I live in Omaha, NE, we get more than enough of those :(
Any ideas? I tried new plugs and wires, and the dealer replaced the
O2 sensor . . . none of those changes seemed to have any effect. I
haven't yet tried the LED hack on the solenoid to see if it is
closing. I use Amoco Ultimate exclusively (92 octane); shouldn't 92
octane be enough to prevent detonation at this level of mods? Could
my knock sensor be faulty? How about timing/ignition problems not
related to plugs and wires?
If you have *any* suggestions, please drop me a note. Brian H.
posted the other day with what seems to be a similar problem; you
might CC: him, too.
On an unrelated note, Santa Employer just dropped some unexpected
end-of-the-year bonus $$$ on my desk, so an upper intercooler pipe
may be in my future. If you have a 2nd gen and you've upgraded,
please [RTP] with vendor and pricing information, and whether you
were satisfied with the workmanship. The only ones that I've seen
available are ~$400 (ouch). Since I already have a Buschur BOV, I
just need a pipe with a mount point for the BOV (I don't want to pay
for the valve again).
Thanks for any suggestions/info,
Scott Borders
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 97 8:48:23 PST
From: SRS3%LPCNO%CTS@go50.comp.pge.com
Subject: DSS - New Owner!
Message-ID: <#25>
Greetings Talon Digest Diamond-Star Specialties now has a new owner, Mr. Mike Croutcher.
Mike had been working with me for several years, and we finally found a
way to get him a full time job!
I've been keeping a very low profile on the Digest for the last year. The
sponsors of my day job have been thru several "re-organizations" in
preparation for deregulation, and another is coming in May (we call them
"de-orgs"). My attention has necessarily been focused more on that than
on DSS.
Mike will be able to provide phone coverage on a regular basis, from
9am to 5pm Pacific every day. He has good connections in the
motorsport industry, and will be able to offer better pricing and expanded
coverage. He also has some great new product ideas, mostly in the
suspension area. We will still be using my 90 Talon AWD as the test
mule, while looking for a stripped 92-94 Laser AWD to build into a
dedicated autocross/drag race car. The DSS web pages are being
remodeled and updated, still at http://www.digisys-one.com/dss, the
DigiSys-One mini-mall. The new email is at DSSpecial@juno.com.
My thanks to everyone on the Talon-Digest for your support over the
years, and for a great source of information. See you at the races!
Steve, not @ DSS any more.....
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 11:16:01 -0600
From: robrien@maxmarketing.com
Subject: digest member?
Message-ID: <#26>
I saw a white Eclipse with some rims and a huge rear spoiler down in
Springfield, IL over the Christmas holiday...
anyone on the digest?
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 13:23:26 -0500
From: Joe Jankord <Joe.Jankord@wmich.edu>
Subject: Buschur's 3" Exhaust & State Police
Message-ID: <#27>
Well thanks David:-) Last night I was at a light in the left turn lane.
While waiting for the light to turn green a Michigan State Police car
pulled up next to me in the lane to go straight. Well when my light
turned green I made my left turn very slowly. The damn cop pulled into
the left lane and pulled me over. He came to my window and asked for the
usual documents and then asked me if I knew why he had pulled me over. I
said probably because of my tinted windows. He said well that too, but
the main reason is because of your muffler. Is there something wrong
with it? It's way too loud! I told him that it is all legal and made to
be that way. Well he ended up giving me a ticket for my tinted windows,
which means that I am going to have to make a trip down to the
courthouse to show them my doctors prescription that says my eyes are
light sensitive:-) Just thought it was a funny reason to get pulled
over, for the exhaust. Heck, I was trying to make it as quiet as I could
when I made the turn. Well pulling away from him after the ticket I
really let him hear what a 3" sounds like! I'm sure it put a smile on
his face, it did mine...
Joe Jankord
Oh I forgot. I have a quick question too. I am wondering if the ticket
would be thrown out anyway if the officer made a mistake on the ticket.
Where the car year goes, he wrote '97. Wow I wish I had a '97, but my
'92 will have to do:-) Just curious in case it ever happens again.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 12:22:20 -0600
From: "Victor DelCol-YEGR07" <Victor_DelCol-YEGR07@email.mot.com>
Subject: [2G,T] ECM Code Reader
Message-ID: <#29>
According to the manual the trouble codes stored in the computer for 2nd
generation turbos can only be read by a scan tool.
Does anyone know a way to read these codes without a scan tool?
Are there any inexpensive scan tools or programs around that can read these
codes?
Victor Del Col
95 TSI
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 97 10:39:48 PST
From: warranty@corp.cirrus.com (Warren Tsai)
Subject: Re: Cold start whine
Message-ID: <#30>
Laughn,
Hmm, I don't have the article that I sent to the digest anymore, but
if you search the old digests you should be able to find it. I got the
problem fixed after 10/96 so you shouldn't have to look into digests
before 10/1/96 to find the article.
Good luck,
Warren
-----------------------------Date:
Thu, 2 Jan 1997 10:48:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Wallace Tam <wwtam@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: How do I know I got the right rear end?[2G,T]
Message-ID: <#31>
Hello,
[RTP]
I recently bought a 97 Talon Tsi AWD, and I noticed that even though the
sticker said that it had four wheel ventilated disc brakes, the rears
looked like solid dics. After reading about someone's joke about swapping
rear ends to get the four bolt, I started wondering about whether or not
someone played this joke on me, however unlikely. How can I tell if I
got the correct rear end?
And I was wondering how I could tell if I got the rear LSD like the
sticker said I was suppose to?
If I've got my head up my a$$ about someone swapping the rear end, what
do you guys think, should I make a big stink about the rear solid dics?
TIA
Wallace
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 14:03:57 -0500 (EST)
From: murari@cfar.umd.edu
Subject: Galant factory manuals FS
Message-ID: <#32>
I have the Galant factory manuals (which also covers
the VR-4) for the previous generation Galant. Since
I just sold my VR-4, I don't have any need for them.
I paid about $57 for them (two-volume set) and would
like to get $35 + shipping for them. Please make me
an offer.
There was someone on this list who was interested in
the manuals. I lost his telephone number and email. If
you're still interested, please send me an email. I'm
sorry that I lost your number.
Thanks,
Murari.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 12:04:57 -0700
From: ijordan@starfire.lpl.arizona.edu (Ian Jordan)
Subject: Starter kill methods
Message-ID: <#33>
With all this talk about using the clutch switch as a starter kill switch, I
just thought I'd throw this in:
The clutch switch is a normally-closed, grounding switch. Which means that
when you push the clutch in, the circuit opens and nothing is grounded. So
if you want to use an alarm as a starter kill, you need to hook it up such
that the sense wire is grounded whenever the alarm is armed. If you want to
use the magnetic switch apporach, you need a normally closed which that
opens when in the presence of a magnetic field. Both of these methods get
wired in parallel with the switch since in order to keep the sense wire
grounded even if the clutch is depressed.
Since there are two wires on the clutch switch, one is constant ground and
the other is sense. I forget which is which, but it's easy to determine.
Just unhook the connector from the switch. Take a jumper wire and hook it
from one of the wires to ground. If the car still starts, it's the other
wire. If the car diesn't start, that's the sense wire.
Ian "after all of this my car will never start again" Jordan
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 13:35:54 -0600
From: ir004861@mindspring.com (Pete Turley)
Subject: dsm help page
Message-ID: <#34>
hey allI just cobbled up a dsm help page. details are at:
http://www.mindspring.com/~ir004861/DSMHelp.html
check it out - I'd hate for someone to go through what I did over xmas holidays.
Pete
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 11:56:43 -0800
Subject: [1G] performance shocks?!? which?
Message-ID: <#35>
Well I am getting some new springs for my car tomorrow (still am having
trouble deciding between H&R or Eibach) and I want to know, what will happen
if I use the STOCK shocks? I have a 92 Eclipse. I want to upgrade the shocks
too but have only been able to find the GABs which are major $$$! Tokico
doesnt have anything availible til about April or May they *think*. Bilstein
doesnt have anything either. What are you guys running that have performance
springs? Koni adjustables? How much do those run? My current shocks are not
worn now but will I have problems if I upgrade to Eibach or H&R's? Thanks
for any info.
Sorry for the double-post.
Vince.
------------------------------
From bouncer Fri Jan 3 12:32:22 1997
for talon-digest-approved on Fri, 3 Jan 1997 12:32:20 -0800
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 12:00:05 -0800
Sender: owner-talon
Precedence: list
Talon Digest for Friday, January 3, 1997
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) gselph
Laser / new plugs / cage / Track Day Event
2) James Roth
Port work questions
3) Robert Arrowood
Bad Idle Fix!!
4) BRETT_NASHLUND
New e-mail address...
5) Daniel C. Lee
Re: Cold start whine
6) Xceler8n
too hot to handle...
7) Tom Stangl
BOV
8) Tom Stangl
Satan/2g tank recall
9) Bill Bauman
Gas mileage
10) Croughwell,Scott
NGK spark plugs
11) Nick Totoro
Mailing Addresses
12) Alex Wilson
[2G] Wheels and offset
13) Eric Hostert
[1g] Shifter Mod
14) DanHurwitz
How to make a REAL fast DSM
15) valarie fong
Re: spacer eater!
16) Aaron J. Becker
BOV
17)
18)
19)
20)
21)
22)
23)
24)
25)
26)
27)
Dean
1g,T Socket Size
Kmp123
More LSD ?'s (1G,T)
RandyNet
Ticket for Tinted Windows in MI?
Steve Ungar
2GT Autocrossing Setup for 95+ Eclipse GS-T
SAVARIA, MICHEL
Nokia snow tires
gselph
Fix for leaking oil return line
Pete Paraska
[1G] Wanted: AM/FM/clock radio for 92 GSX
robrien
Buschur vs. HKS ?
BRAD GRANE
transfer case (T1G)
Mario
New Talon Howl/old Talon Belt
Scott Ritter
[2G] Clock Spring repair, [2G,T] Fuel Tank TSB, [T
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
9am.
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 97 16:14:11 EST
From: gselph@nordson.com
Subject: Laser / new plugs / cage / Track Day Event
Message-ID: <#1>
I had my first encounter with a laser speed trap New Years Eve. I lost.
Last week I posted about what I thought was fuel cut at high rpms with a 16g,
VPC, 20psi, etc.. it wound up being bad plugs. I was using the platinum NGK
plugs that had about 20,000+ miles on them. Apparently that was too much. I
put in a fresh set of NGK BPR7ES and now it purrrrs like a kitten at idle and
growls like a tiger under WOT.
I ordered an AutoPower roll cage early in December. I just received all of
the pieces finally (UPS lost three of the bars). It was scratched up pretty
bad from shipping and from a long storage at the place I bought it from.
However, I'm having it sand blasted and powder coated with a nice black
wrinkle coat this week. Hopefully by next weekend I'll have the cage and the
five point harnesses in. I posted earlier about being ready to put it in but
things didn't work out as planned.
There's another Road Atlanta Track Day event on Saturday, January 11. It is
an absolute blast. Depending on how fast I get my cage/harnesses in I may or
may not make it to this one, but mail me for info. if interested.
Until next time,
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 15:27:07 -0600
From: James Roth <rothjc@hqamc.safb.af.mil>
Subject: Port work questions
Message-ID: <#2>
I am considering having a local mechanic do some port work (or even do it
myself) but I want to know exactly what it is. It sounds like it is just
polishing out the rough surfaces on the inside of the turbo housing, o2
housing and the exhaust manifold. But on the exhaust manifold aren't there
supposed to be some grooves that should remain even after port work?
What's the difference between porting something and extrude honing? [RTP]
I don't have a WAIS search program...
OX,
Yeah I can imagine racing down the road running 18 psi and then a song with
strong bass hits, the sub rocks, and then I hit a massive fuel-cut cause the
amp sucks the current away from my fuel pump. (joking ;) Actually, this mod
sounds like a really good idea and would even be easier for those who have
moved their batteries to the trunk.
J. Chris Roth
92 Laser RS AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 16:17:16 -0600
From: "Robert Arrowood" <Robert.Arrowood@sullivan.sullivangraphics.com>
Subject: Bad Idle Fix!!
Message-ID: <#3>
THANKS!!!
Well folks, it has been 30,000 miles and I am $300 dollars
poorer!! The verdict is in and I have traced down the poor idle
problem. I fixed it on mine by blocking the EGR. Now, I don't
think my EGR is bad, this only fixed the idle problem. After
going through and testing the vacuum/emissions section 25 in the
Service Manual, I have found a possible miss-print on page 25-6.
This page shows two diagrams of the vacuum hose routing - top
diagram for Federal/Canada and bottom diagram for California.
Both of these diagrams show the top two TB hoses as Red/Green.
Now turn to page 25-17, look and the second diagram from the top
~ notice they removed the hose from the left nipple.
Instruction #1 says to remove the hose w/ Green stripe. This
really confused me as many of you already know. I have come to
a conclusion that the diagrams on page 25-6 are WRONG on the TB
side. We can only hope that the rest of the diagram is correct.
I had several people e-mail me their order of the hoses on the
TB. All but a couple of them were Green/Red. Several people
noted the TB is marked with colored paint. The left nipple on
top is marked GREEN. A big THANK YOU goes out to everyone that
sent me an e-mail. I checked my TB today and sure enough there
is a green mark behind the top/left nipple (actually on the top
of the TB). I will be swapping these hoses tonight and will
leave my EGR blocked as this will keep the TB and intake from
getting carbonized (is that really a word?). When I first
noticed the idle being bad, it was right after the dealer had
serviced the vehicle @ 71k miles. I did not think they did
anything to the TB but I may be wrong. We will never know. We
can assume that the mechanic was following the Service Manual
when putting everything back together. Anyone that has a 1990
model with a strange idle - low and stumbling - feels like
ignition is missing - car shakes tremendously, check the two
hoses on top of the TB while standing on the right side of the
car the hoses should be GREEN/RED. With the hoses connected
incorrectly - Red/Green - the EGR gets vacuum all the time.
This causes the EGR to open and allow the exhaust to circulate
back through the intake. This is only supposed to happen when
the car is COLD. This is why the idle smoothed out when the EGR
was blocked, even though the EGR is receiving vacuum and is
open, the exhaust is not able to get into the intake path (for
those of you that are not familiar w/ the EGR block off). If
anyone has any questions just drop me an e-mail.
Thanks again to all that responded!!!
Robert
1990 Talon AWD - XCLRATN
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 14:34:19 -0700
From: BRETT_NASHLUND@fragomen.com
Subject: New e-mail address...
Message-ID: <#4>
I have switched e-mail addresses and would like to have y'all start using
this one instead of my "languru@earthlink.net."
My old account will still continue to work, but I now have Notes running,
and can get my e-mail anywhere easily...
Thanks!
Brett
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 17:53:10 +0000
From: "Daniel C. Lee" <danlee@ziplink.net>
Subject: Re: Cold start whine
Message-ID: <#5>
Mr. Rowe,
Laughn,
The original post basically lists the parts that need to be replaced to
recitfy the problem. If you're really interested in seeing it, you can view
it in the WAIS archive search probably under the above subject heading.
However, it is probably easier for you to reference the 1/1/97 edition of the
digest where I authored a posting that listed all the parts and their
respective part numbers that need to be replaced to remedy this problem.
Best of luck.
DL
'95 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 15:03:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Xceler8n <anguyen@scudc.scu.edu>
Subject: too hot to handle...
Message-ID: <#6>
Hello guys,
Well, my car is overheating and I have no idea why.
With the help of other members, the turbo was replaced with another stock
turbo this past weekend. While driving home, the car overheated and when
I looked under the hood, coolant was gushing out of the overflow.
I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap. There are no leaks in the
system. I also had the radiator flushed out and reworked. But none of
this solved the problem.
The heater works after I filled the radiator with coolant....so that
means that the water pump is working.
I don't think we overlooked anything during the turbo installation. I
checked the oil and coolant lines and they are fine. The water fitting
near the turbo is also fine.
I took the radiator relay out and tested it--that's okay. The A/C fuse
is good. I used a continuity tester and checked the wiring harness from
the fuse box all the way to the thermo sensor (radiator switch) on the
bottom of the radiator. The wiring is fine.
I noticed that after running the car at idle for 15-20 minutes, the
engine fan didn't come on. After a couple hard runs around the block,
the car started overheating and when I shut off the engine, I left the
ignition on (where all the dash lights are on).....but the fans still
didn't come on.
I jumped the two terminals in the rad relay plug in the fuse box and both
fans came on. So the fan motors are fine.
The last thing I didn't check was the thermo sensor that sits on the
bottom of the radiator and is connected to the fan. I went and bought a
new sensor, hoping that this would ultimately solve the problem.
After installing it, the engine fan came on about 10 minutes into idle.
And it intermittently came on and off--like it used to. I thought that
fixed the problem.
After several hard runs on the streets (empty streets), the car would
start overheating again. I pulled in and watched the temp gauge. I
waited for the engine fan to come on but it wouldn't. When the needle
passed the right white line, I turned on the A/C and both fans came on.
I sat there for half an hour with both fans running and the temp gauge
did not move--it moved and stayed a little to the left of the right white
line. After sitting there for half an hour, I turned off the A/C to see
if the engine fan would come on by itself....it didn't. So I shut the
engine off.
I don't see any smoke coming out of the exhaust. And I can't find any
coolant or water in the oil...so MAYBE I didn't blow my head gasket.
It's now Thursday and I've been trying to fix this since Sunday.
If anybody can offer ANY help--something that I missed, I would really
appreciate it.
If nobody can help, I'm just gonna have to take it to the dealer tommorow
and have them charge me $75 an hour just to find out what COULD be the
problem. I have no choice--I need this car to get to school next monday.
Well, thanks for hearing me out and thanks in advance for any help.
Anthony
[This really sounds like your theromostat isn't opening. Does the
radiator feel hot? If it isn't as hot as you expect it to be, then
you should make sure the thermostat isn't the problem. Also, people
have mentioned that some replacement thermostats don't have a big
enough opening, and don't flow enough water. -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 16:07:22 -0800
Subject: BOV
Message-ID: <#7>
> IMHO, the IDEAL way to solve this is to modify the CBV to relieve
> pressure under the diaphram.
You want the best overall fix? Warren Tsai and I hashed this through a
month or so ago, I just have not had time to find the parts and build
such a system.
You want:
A fitting mounted in the IC pipe RIGHT NEXT to the BOV.
A 3way/T solenoid (the stock CA EGR solenoid will work)
A vac switch that activates at about 20" Hg
Since I have 49state cars, I don't have an EGR sol to use (but you don't
want to disconnect it anyways, to avoid Check Engine light), but I WILL
find one used.
Now, you tap the vac switch into the intake manifold where the current
BOV hose is. Wire it to open the solenoid. The solenoid has 1 OUT, 2
INs (or reverse, doesn't matter in this case). Connect the OUT to the
BOV. Connect the "normally on" IN to the IC pipe fitting, connect the
"normally off" in to the old intake BOV fitting.
What does this get you? EQUAL pressures on each side of the BOV, until
the vac increases past 20"Hg (during a shift), then the BOV sees HIGH
vacuum on top, high boost on bottom, and opens.
The only trick is, HOW MUCH is that EGR solenoid used, WHERE do we get a
vac switch set to 20"Hg, and WILL this be cheaper than an aftermarket
when all is done?
The last is the most important to me ;-)
This could all be done quite compactly, and either mounted/connected all
on the intake manifold, or all on/near the IC. I haven't decided where
I will do mine yet.
So, Jim, there you have it, let me know how well it works, and how much
it costs ;-)
[I would be interested in making a BOV system that was controlled by
the ECU. It knows the position of the throttle plate, so it knows
when the valve should open/close. Anyone know of an electronic
air valve big enough to flow the air we need? -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 16:16:43 -0800
Subject: Satan/2g tank recall
Message-ID: <#8>
>
>
>
>
This is a stupid question (since we're dealing with Satan here)
but why does the recall call for removing the exhaust & ABS lines to
drop the tank when digest members have been replacing the pump by lifting
it out of the tank from the rear seat location?
Because the 1G tank is farther back than the 2G tank, and because they
are replacing your ENTIRE TANK, not just the pump assembly. Since you
have a plastic tank, I'd assume someone got their butt FIRED for a sucky
design - the original lip was not shaped properly, and the gasket could
drop in the tank - that is a DESIGN flaw, NOT a construction flaw.
You will NOT get a recall kit that big, if any at all, trust me - just
wait until your dealer has done a few, and take them the entire recall
printout.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 19:15:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Bill Bauman <flewbyu@net2.netacc.net>
Subject: Gas mileage
Message-ID: <#9>
Had the fuel tank recall done on my car a couple weeks ago and my gas
mileage seems to have dropped 2-3 MPG. Anyone else have this problem?
Please
RTP.
Also, I'm interested in the overall mileage that these cars get. In case
anyone else is interested, I'll do an informal survey. Please specify year
of car, T or NT, FWD or AWD, approximate mileage, and mods (intake, exhaust
or upgraded turbo) as well as MPG. I'll post the results after I get some data.
Take care,
Bill
'96 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 17:03:02 -0800
From: "Croughwell,Scott"
Subject: NGK spark plugs
Message-ID: <#10>
Hey allA little while ago Matt Blue (yea, that dude that works at NGK)
mentioned that the BPR7EKN (or whatever heat range you like) is a pain
to get a hold of. The BPR7EKN is the plug with 2 ground straps, one on
either side of the center electrode. So if all y'all are stuck with the
normal 1 ground strap plugs (like the NGK BPR6ES) then drop me an email
and I'll go pick you up a set of the "better" plugs! They run $7/ea +
tax. (They're always in stock at the Irvine Auto Center Mitsu
dealership for you local yocals.)
Lates~
Scott scott@overboost.com
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 02 Jan 1997 20:00:59 -0500
From: Nick Totoro <ntotoro@mindspring.com>
Subject: Mailing Addresses
Message-ID: <#11>
Does anyone have a snail mail address for Mitsubishi Motors? I have
been looking for one, albeit unsuccessfully. I've tried several website,
including their own, and am wondering if anyone happens to have a piece
of literature with the address. Thanks...
Nick
-----------------------------Date: 02 Jan 97 20:00:15 EST
From: Alex Wilson <72027.3727@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: [2G] Wheels and offset
Message-ID: <#12>
I just put on 16x7.5 inch wheels with a 35mm offset (Borbet type H) and 225/50
tires. I've found varying info regarding putting on new wheels and getting the
proper offset. Some places say stay with the stock offset, some posts in the
archives say dropping the offset on 2nd gen cars from 45mm to 35mm is OK.
If anyone has any horror stories about wearing out wheel bearings by reducing
the wheel offset, please let me know so I can switch wheels.
BTW, the new wheels look great, almost an inch of clearence with inside upper
control arm and are flush with the outside of the wheel wheels.
Thanks, Alex
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 21:24:09 -0600 (CST)
From: Eric Hostert <hostert@interaccess.com>
Subject: [1g] Shifter Mod
Message-ID: <#13>
Hello,
I just wanted to make one last comment on that *excellent* shifter mod
description on the Club homepage. It seems like a couple of people have
noticed the "maple syrup" shifting even without doing the second half
of the modification, and I think I may know the cause of this.
When I did the mod to my '93 GSX, I grabbed some handy washers that just
happened to have an outside diameter of ~1.25". When I removed the rubber
grommets and tightened everything down, the shifter would not
automatically spring back to the center position (between 3rd and 4th)
when in neutral. It appears that the bolt on the passenger side rear
corner was slightly deflecting the shifter bracket because of the way the
large washer was riding up on the edge. Loosening this bolt (or
replacing the washer w/ a smaller one) solved the problem.
BTW, the '93 has the same black bushings as the '94s.
Eric Hostert
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 22:58:00 -0500
From: DanHurwitz@aol.com
Subject: How to make a REAL fast DSM
Message-ID: <#14>
Way back about...11? years ago, Car and Driver, or maybe Motor Trend, built a
twin-engine Honda CRX. Are you listening, Dave B.? Even with only mild
tuning, a Diamond-Star car with two engines could put 600hp to the ground.
Sure, it would take some work -- the Honda had a second front suspension
grafted onto the back, with the steering fixed straight...and I have no idea
how the shifter linkage worked for the rear. For that matter, seems to me
the rear engine would have to drive in reverse... But the CRX ran okay, and
if I remember it was pretty darn quick.
Well, anyway, I figured it'd be good for some conversation...
Dan
'91 (Single engine) GSX
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 03 Jan 1997 11:58:23 -0800
From: valarie fong <vfong@netvigator.com>
Subject: Re: spacer eater!
Message-ID: <#15>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sorry to tell you but sounds like your turbo ate the spacer.
But how do I explained
for the engine powerloss-sluggish thing at high level boost....?Could
all that debris be blocking the air intake at the intercooler joint? Or
is it the debris at the throttle body..? One more thing, do I need that
spacer?
No, you don't need the spacer and I still have the power loss problem
you have. I checked my compression and all cylinders are low around 124
psi, they were around 164 psi two weeks ago. Eveyone says the engine
should be fine since I ate the spacer but I don't believe them. I want
to do a leak down test then probably re-ring my pistons.
As you said it may also be a clogged intercooler but I don't think so
because I flushed it pretty good. Its easy to take apart the intake
tubing and inspect the throttle body but these should be pretty
clean. Your problem my be turbo related I had to change the compressor
wheel.
If you find out what the power loss problem is please let me know. BTY,
please call Dave and tell him you spoke to the guy in Bahamas and
explain your problem. We are trying to find out why I have the power
loss like you.
Anyone has any knowledge please help....Basically the problem is
a)Unusual highwhinging noise as the turbine spins!
b)90% power loss for a few seconds at WOT!
c)part of the spacer gone missing (rubber piece inside air intake hose
connecting the turbocharger to the air intake hose)
thanks.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 03 Jan 1997 00:43:17 -0500
Subject: BOV
Message-ID: <#16>
Jim, sorry I didn’t mean to sound like I was flaming you. There was a
good article on BOV’s in Decembers Turbo magazine. Automatics don’t
have the problems as bad as manuals; they don’t get off the gas (close
the throttle plate) when they shift. The fact that the turbo is
spinning at 100,000 rpm is precisely the reason that you need a BOV.
The thing is spinning so fast that when your throttle plate closes it
keeps spinning and cramming more and more air into the throttle plate.
It’s pushing enough air into your engine to run it at full throttle at
7000rpm. No matter how fast you shift you can’t stop the air from
building up. I agree with you that the BOV lets air by at higher boost,
but crushing it should pre-load the spring and allow for higher boost
levels. I think you’re right about the two sources for before and after
the throttle body. Most of the after market BOV’s have them. I think
the best thing to do might be to buy a high performance BOV.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 01:08:00 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 1g,T Socket Size
Message-ID: <#17>
Please RTP to me, thanks,
Anyone know the socket size for the drain plug for the transfer case and
the diff? I do know I don't have the right size, and don't want to buy
an entire set of large ones, If I can just get the one that fits :).
The shop manual says thin-walled, anyone have problems with regular
sockets ? Can't say I've seen too many "thin-walled" sockets out there.
Thanks,
Dean
ag97@tamu.edu
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 03 Jan 1997 00:56:52 -0700
From: Kmp123@ix.netcom.com
Subject: More LSD ?'s (1G,T)
Message-ID: <#18>
Hi Everybody,
My latest '91 TSI has an orange sticker on the door-jam saying, " This
vehicle is equipped with a limited-slip differential....." My first one
didn't have this. Is the LSD a four-bolt rear-end, or does having the
LSD have no bearing on whether it's a 3 or 4 bolt rear ?
I'm not planning on building a 400hp car, maybe 250 to 300. I'd like to
know at what point the 4 bolt becomes a necessity.
Kenny
p.s., Am I the only one on this list from Utah?
[Nope. Go to the Club DSM membership section and do a search in
the extended geographic part - *ut* shows up 6 other members.
-talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 03:00:39 -0500
Subject: Ticket for Tinted Windows in MI?
Message-ID: <#19>
On the 01/02/97 digest, Joe Jankord wrote that he got a ticket for having
tinted windows in Michigan.
Are they illegal in MI or are yours super dark? What about other states?
I live in Dallas TX, and I'd guesstimate that well over half of the late
model cars I see on the street have tinted windows. Then again triple digit
summer-time temperatures are not unusual either! It was in the mid seventies
today:-) unusually warm for Jan.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 2 Jan 1997 14:00:01 -0500
From: sungar@claritas.com (Steve Ungar)
Subject: 2GT Autocrossing Setup for 95+ Eclipse GS-T
Message-ID: <#20>
I can't answer all of your questions about autox a 2G FWD (I autox a
1G AWD), but here are some answers for you:
<<Here is were you come in... I have not been autocrossing in one
year. I'm not sure what the rules allow but what should I do to be
competitive in BStock or ???SP
What size tires work best. What pressure? Wheel Alignment? Exhaust
options ( how about a strait pipe? ) >>
We're not very competitive in B-stock, but luckily we are moving to
G-stock this year. In stock, you're not allowed to do much. The best
thing to spend your money on up front is race tires. The BFG R1's are
the most popular. As for size, I think 225/50 are the widest that you
can fit on the stock rim size.
Exhaust options in stock are a little limited. I think you're only
allowed to do a cat-back change. Whatever exhaust gives the most HP
will be the way to go.
If you want to go to SP, you will end up in ESP. To be competitive
here takes $$$ because you can do ALOT of things to your car. I don't
know exactly what's allowed/not allowed here.
<<What special pixie dust can I put in the gas to make me 5 second
quicker? >>
I don't know, but if you find out, please let me know!!!
-Steve
#13
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 03 Jan 97 08:17:00 EST
From: "SAVARIA, MICHEL" <SAVARIA@MONTRL1.HCC.COM>
Subject: Nokia snow tires
Message-ID: <#21>
I have a 97 TSI AWD and i install 4 Nokia tires (205 65 15) and they are
very good tires. I live in Quebec and usully we have a lot of snow here.
Previously i was using Vredenstein tires but they were not available in that
size. I think that on dry pavement the Vred were better but on ice Nokia are
the best.
Michel Savaria
Talon 2G TSIAWD 97 Nomods
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 97 8:46:29 EST
Subject: Fix for leaking oil return line
Message-ID: <#22>
>My oil return line from the turbo to the oil pan WILL NOT quit leaking.
I had this problem once. It seems some of the old gasket material was stuck
to the oil return line flange not allowing the new gasket to seat properly.
I had to scrape it off with a razor blade, sand it down as flat as possible,
and use a new gasket and two new bolts. The two bolts seem to have
something
resembling a washer that deforms easily when reused or overtightened. They
didn't allow a good snug fit until I replaced them with fresh ones.
>Oh I forgot. I have a quick question too. I am wondering if the ticket
>would be thrown out anyway if the officer made a mistake on the ticket.
>Where the car year goes, he wrote '97. Wow I wish I had a '97, but my
>'92 will have to do:-) Just curious in case it ever happens again.
On two occasions I've seen a judge either correct the error and continue with
the case or not pay the error any attention at all. I've had the greatest
luck going to court and pleading not guilty. Three of the last four times
the officer has not shown up to court and the case was dismissed.
Take care,
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 03 Jan 1997 09:59:31 -0500
From: Pete Paraska <paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil>
Subject: [1G] Wanted: AM/FM/clock radio for 92 GSX
Message-ID: <#23>
{RTP}
The stock (ETR) AM/FM/clock radio in my 92 GSX can not
pick up stations on either AM or FM. It used to work fine,
then I took it out an disassembled it looking for obvious
problems. Fixed a possible short across two traces on
the tuner board in front. It worked fine for a while - then
only at the low end of both bands. Now it picks up
no stations at all.
I have the standard double DIN setup with cassette player
below. The cassette part works fine.
If anyone has the AM/FM top unit that is in working condition,
I'd like to buy it. White's didn't have one.
Pete (paraska@dt.navy.mil)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 9:41:24 -0600
Subject: Buschur vs. HKS ?
Message-ID: <#24>
Does anyone know what the differences are between
the Buschur manual boost controller and the same
from HKS?
Is one better than the other?
I have had the HKS on for about 7 months and it
feels like it works okay, but if the Buschur is any
different maybe I'll swap it out for one.
Any help would appreciated.
Secondly, I want to sell the entire exhaust
system off of my 92 Galant VR4.
It currently has:
2.5 Buschur Downpipe
2.5 Buschur Testpipe
2.5 HKS cat-back
all pieces are mandrel bent
NO boost creep what-so-ever
Anyone interested?
Please e-mail me directly at:
robrien@maxmarketing.com
Hope everyone had a good holiday season,
Bob
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 10:32:51 -0600
From: b-grane@students.uiuc.edu (BRAD GRANE)
Subject: transfer case (T1G)
Message-ID: <#25>
Happy Holidays. On my way home from school last week I experienced what
appeared to be a clutch failure at the first toll booth after 120 miles of
shiftless driving. After limping to a dealer late saturday afternoon, I
had to wait till after Christmas to find out that the transfer case is
supposedly bone dry of fluid and ruined. The dealer says it takes at least
8 hrs to tear down and a week to fix. Anyone had a transfer case go out
and know what it should cost? If not can anyone make a guess? Thanx.
BRADFORD
[I'm sure someone here can answer that.... :-) -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 12:24:44 -0500
From: "Mario" <Mario@chip.cba.ufl.edu>
Subject: New Talon Howl/old Talon Belt
Message-ID: <#26>
Hey guys,
Happy New year to ALL. Well I finally got my TSi after moths of searching
on Dec.31. Then on Jan 1,I went outside to drive my Non Turbo and I heard a
nasty sound when I cranked it up. As I drove the power was down, the oil
pressure was low, and I was upset. Well it turned out the TIMING BELT
JUMPED, after only 10,000 miles. Well that's what I get for taking my car
to a low-tech BUBBA mechanic to save a few bucks. Well my local SATAN
affliate lined everything back up for $250 so I guess I should be thankful.
Now I just need to sell the Darn thing.
But I love my new car. I have already gotten the evil, envious eye from two
moostangs. Plus last night a brethren eclipse darted through traffic to
catch up with me. I would have raced him but I had my girl with me and she
frowns on such behaviour (insert whip crack here). But the major problem
with the car is that it howls loudly over 4k rpm in the engine bay. I'm
trying to find a crack or leak in the exhaust but I just cant. It's okay up
4k even under full stock boost from 3k-4k, but then all hell breaks loose.
So if you have any suggestions RTP.
As far as the Hyundai parts looking like ours. It has always been my
understanding that Hyundai Cars was own (at least partially) or built by
Mitsubushi. After all Mitsu did sell the Precis (?) which was the same as
the Hynudai Excel.
TTFM and oh yeah...HOW ABOUT THOSE GATORS.
Mario
('91 Talon NormAsp)
('90 Talon TSI)
love those pop-up lights.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 13:22:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [2G] Clock Spring repair, [2G,T] Fuel Tank TSB, [T] CBV mod's
Message-ID: <#27>
1. Fellow 2Gen'ers:
Just got something called the "clock spring" replaced in my 95 GSX.
(Same time as getting my fuel-level sending unit replaced - pretty neat
trick, huh?) The symptom was that a scratchy scraping sound started coming
from the steering column (hey, how bad could it be - I mean it only
happened when I turned the wheel...). Anyway, it supposedly has something
to do with the airbag system, and my service dept told me they've been
seeing quite a few of them croak lately. Keep your ears open...
[The "clock spring" is a coil of wire that connects the horn and the air
bag system to the rest of the car through the steering column. The coil
will tighten and loosen as you turn the wheel from left to right. Only
way to reliably connect multiple electric wires through a moving joint.
-talon mgr]
2. Turbo Mike wrote:
>why does the recall call for removing the exhaust & ABS lines to
>drop the tank when digest members have been replacing the pump by lifting
>it out of the tank from the rear seat location?
Because the tank itself is replaced as part of the recall - it's not
just the gaskets that are the problem, but also the plastic forms on/in
which they seat. BTW, my fuel pump's whistle has calmed down - perhaps it
was an air bubble?
3. Jim McKenna:
Jim, wrt your check-valve idea, is this what you mean?
TBI --------|>|----------|>|-------- TBM
|
|
CBV
|>| = Check valve for flow in > direction
TBI = Throttle body intake
TBM = Throttle body manifold-side
If so, what's to keep the "vacuum" check valve (TBM) closed under the
pressure on the CBV tee from the intake side of the TB valve (TBI)?
If not, please ASCII us up something! :-)
As I intuit it, even the Greddy type S probably doesn't use positive
pressure to hold itself closed, but rather incorporates a stiffer spring
and the differential pressure between the two "sides" of the closed TB
valve to actuate it sharply. (Anyone know for sure?)
Perhaps TPS-controlled electric valves in place of the above check valves
would work, but there's still potential driveability problems for cases of
non-completely-closed-throttle compressor bypassing.
Hmmm - just read Ox's response. Looks like he beat me to this one... ;-)
Keep up the good experimenting!
/Scott 95GSX
------------------------------
From bouncer Mon Jan 6 13:08:05 1997
for talon-digest-approved on Mon, 6 Jan 1997 13:08:05 -0800
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 12:00:06 -0800
Sender: owner-talon
Precedence: list
Talon Digest for Monday, January 6, 1997
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) Damon Root
4-bolt rears
2) Stanley Moskal
{2g,t,awd,a/t] overhead light problem
3) Glen W.
[1G, T] O2 sensor
4) Brian Heagney
PROJECTOR HEADLIGHTS [2GT]
5) FRCFED4
Mazda boost solinoid
6) Gene Boglio
Looking for Kevin Woods
7) Brett Nashlund
wheel offset
8) Victor DelCol-YEGR07 [2G] Brake Pads for Solo1 Racing
9) Sean
misc stuff [1G,T]
elex solenoid for BOV
11) Chan Yi
Alarm
12) NMastrocol
(1G,T) Bucking Horse Talon
13) MBlue22999
Re: Spark Plug Gap Width (Part II)
14) Eclipsedwc
Famous Talon Digest Members
15)
17)
18)
19)
20)
21)
22)
23)
24)
25)
26)
27)
28)
29)
30)
31)
32)
33)
34)
35)
36)
37)
38)
39)
40)
41)
The4Bangr
transfer case, BOV
Rob
[1G,T] Finding one in Pgh, PA?
STPK
Ball Joints
Mario
Exhaust Noise
SakmtoRcng
Sakimoto Racing
JChristou
New Wheels
Hank A Bell
[All] Louisiana Car Show
Derrick Chan
Intrax and Koni coil-overs
Brad Bauer
[1G,T] EGR Blockoff Plate
comfrt
Tire Story / Mount and Balance Q
Jason Allerding
[2G,T] Noise
Joe Jankord
PMS Programming
Gregory Carlsen
1G,T Acceleration "bounce", war story in the maki
Douglas Forest
For sale: 1993 Talon TSi AWD
Pete Paraska
[1G] Re: Shifter mods (long)
Mark Hessler
5.0 Fuel Pumps + Evil Mileage
anthony p. nguyen more hot stuff...
Frank Mowry
Dave B. gets a mention on Miata.net
gselph
Tint laws by state
Stanley Moskal
{2g,t,awd,at] dome light/ radio problem part 2
Juan A. Pons
[2G, T] TSB info
Jake McClean
[2g] Hoods..
Tome
overheating
Hank A Bell
[All] That There Redneck A-ward
William Ostlund
[2G, T] gas tank recall-talon
Kevan Riley
CFDF on 1G T AWD & misc responses
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
9am.
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 16:50:01 -0500
From: "Damon Root" <rootdamo@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 4-bolt rears
Message-ID: <#1>
DSMer's,
If you own a first generation AWD car and plan to go fast you
have either already purchased a 4-bolt rearend or are in the process
of looking for one. I myself am in that process of looking for one.
The question I have is can you convert an automatic 4-bolt rear with
the 3.31:1 gear to the manual rear with the 3.55:1 gear? I have
found a low mileage LSD 4-bolt rear but it has the smaller automatic
ring and pinion. Could I use the ring and pinion out of my existing
3-bolt LSD rear? Any knowledge in this area would be greatly
appreciated.
thanx,
Damon Root
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 15:06:24 -0600
From: Stanley Moskal <SMoskal@uic.edu>
Subject: {2g,t,awd,a/t] overhead light problem
Message-ID: <#2>
I have a new problem that I would like to submit to the group brain. My
overhead lights will not come on when the door opens. This problem is
coupled to a loss off power after shut down( I lose my presets and time on
the radio). The car still starts up in the morning though. I did move the
fuse box around when I did my air filter/IC hack mod but the problem showed
up 4 days later. I checked the overhead light fuse, no problem. I visually
checked the wires around the fuse, saw nothing amiss. I have an aftermarket
alarm that opens the doors and turns on the overhead lights. The alarm goes
on but the lights don't. I wiggled the driver side door switch, no help. I
checked to make sure the overhead door switch was in the correct position. I
gave the overhead light area some taps(hard ones),no help. Any suggestions
on what it might be or what to try and check next ? Stan
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 03 Jan 1997 16:12:46 -0500
From: "Glen W." <ghurst@cris.com>
Subject: [1G, T] O2 sensor
Message-ID: <#3>
The gas mileage on my '92 Talon AWD has only been @17.5 mpg city since
I got it in August. I finally got around to checking my o2 sensor
yesterday. My Haynes manual says you should read @12 ohms resistance
between pins 3 & 4 of o2 sensor harness at 68 deg. It was 71 deg.
outside, car hadn't been driven yet, and I read infinite resistance.
Double-checked, made sure was checking the right pins, still got
infinite resistance.
However, when I hooked up my digital voltmeter to the check
connector behind the passenger-side kick panel, I could see voltage when
the car was driven. It would read from @0.1V to @0.6V at part throttle,
and @0.93V when at WOT.
I then hooked up my analog voltmeter to see how fast it was
transitioning at part throttle. It didn't seem to be transitioning very
fast, but I've never tested a known good o2 sensor to see how fast it
transitions.
[It won't transition more than about once per second after idle has
stablized for a while. -talon mgr]
If any of you have tested a known good o2 sensor, could you give me a
rough idea how fast it transitions? I know mine read infinite
resistance, but I don't want to spend $100 at the dealer for a new one
and have it not be the problem.
Thanks for your help.
Glen W.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 03 Jan 1997 15:52:35 -0600
From: Brian Heagney <matrix@enteract.com>
Subject: PROJECTOR HEADLIGHTS [2GT]
Message-ID: <#4>
All:
We at Matrix Performance are excited to bring you good news...if you are
interested in a particular product.
We are working with one of our vendors in developing a
direct-replacement projector-style headlight kit for the '95-'96 Eagle
Talon's and Mitsubishi Eclipe's. It will be similiar to that of how the
Honda's are.
The price point is around $400.00.
What I need to know is how many people are SERIOUSLY interested out
there. Depending on the reply, will judge if my vendor/manufacturer
should spend time/money in developing the kit.
I am SERIOUS...are you?
~ Brian/Matrix
P.S. Please reply to: matrix@enteract.com.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 17:20:55 -0600
From: "FRCFED4" <c-brinkman@bgu.edu>
Subject: Mazda boost solinoid
Message-ID: <#5>
I was changing my mommy's thermostat on her '94 Mazda 626 V6 today. The
thermo is on the bottom hose and I needed to remove the air box to get to
it. While disassembling all this junk I noticed the Mitsu three diamond
symbol on the distributor. Kinda cool, but not as cool as what was
attached to the air box: the exact same boost solinoid as on the DSMs
except one end was plugged insted of having a vaccum line attached. It is
an identical piece, so if you break yours you might try a Mazda dealer for
a better price or a Mazda junkyard.
Rock on,
Chris Brinkman FRCFED4 in Illinois
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 03 Jan 97 16:51:15 CST
From: Gene Boglio <U64420@UICVM.UIC.EDU>
Subject: Looking for Kevin Woods
Message-ID: <#6>
Sorry to take up bandwidth with this message, won't happen again.
Kevin, I tried to reply to your e-mail but my server is having trouble
with your e-mail address. The cat is a Random Technology cat and
has 2" diameter inlet/outlet with rotateable flanges, meaning it will
fit 89-94 DSM both FWD and AWD. It is in perfect condition and was on
my 91 GS turbo for 4 months or 4,000 miles before switching to a
testpipe. It is also made of stainless steel. If you are still
interested in buying it, you can send me a money order for $75 and I
will pay for shipping if its within the U.S. I will ship the cat the
the same day I receive the money order. Let me know. If you need me
to reply, could you give me another e-mail address or your phone number,
as my server won't allow me to reply to your current e-mail address.
Thanks.
Gene Boglio
4221 West 91st Place
Oak Lawn, IL. 60453
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 03 Jan 1997 15:03:32 -0800
From: Brett Nashlund <languru@earthlink.net>
Subject: wheel offset
Message-ID: <#7>
I run a 95 FWD Tsi with 35mm offset and 225/50 tires. They just BARELY
rub in the rears, and there is no problem in the front. You can also
shave the inner bends inside the fenders. Any bodyshop will shave them
and seal them for around $50
The factory offset is 46mm, but remember as sizes increase, you will
have to go a little less. I have some Borbet Type C (oem versions) and
they seem to do just fine. But like I said, I had to shave the inner
fender in the REAR only... If you take a look at the lip underneath,
you will see what I mean.
Hope this helps!
Brett
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 17:07:42 -0600
Subject: [2G] Brake Pads for Solo1 Racing
Message-ID: <#8>
I have been racing my 95 Talon TSI on the track for two years now and have
experimented with the following brake pads. I have gone through at least
one set of each plus a few rotors. Testing is limited and my rating system
is based on fading on the track, or noise, wear and dust on the street.
I would welcome anyones comments on their experiences or
recommendations.
Hawk Black -Excellent Track Pad, Eats Rotors on the street
Porterfield R4 -Equivalent to Hawk
Metal Masters - Good Track and street Pad.
Porterfield R4S - Equivalent to Metal Masters
Stock Pads - Fair track Pad. Quiet and good wear for a non Metallic pad
Cool Carbon- Fair Track Pad. Wears very fast on track and Street.
Drilled Rotors- Very little difference. Crack very easily. Holes plug
after a few races any way.
Rear Pads- Tried Metal Master. No improvement over stock organic pads.
Slight squeal when cold
Victor Del Col
'95 TSI
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 03 Jan 1997 06:46:17 -0800
From: Sean <seanc123@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: misc stuff [1G,T]
Message-ID: <#9>
** ATTENTION **
Anyone who complained about there shifter moving while driving, DO the
shifter mod. It just about eliminated all the movement of the shifter
when in 3rd and 4th gear (the only time mine moved on its own). Even if
you think you wouldn't want to get into the project becuase it might be
too hard, its not. The web page illustrates it perfectly and takes you
step-by-step thru the whole thing, incredible job on the web page.
As someone noted in a previous digest you'd probably want to use
something a little larger than a 1" washer (I used a 1.25" which was a
perfect fit, except for the right rear position, but I managed) with a
5/16" hole, instead of 5/8" which is mentioned on the web page.
One other thing I found to increase/adjust the boost. I hooked up a fish
tank valve on the hose that goes to the white T right after (about 1
inch) the boost solenoid. However, I did find that if it is more than
about 1 inch it doesn't work, can someone tell me why????
A couple of questions I hope someone can answer. First, excuse my
ignorance but I see lots of people using aftermarket shocks, but don't
the DSMs have struts in the front??? Are you switching from struts to
shocks, is it possible???? Also, is it possible to use aftermarket
shocks/struts with the OEM springs or aftermarket springs with OEM
shocks/struts???
Sorry 'bout that long winded post.
Sean '91TalonTSi/AWD
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 15:23:44 -0800
Subject: elex solenoid for BOV
Message-ID: <#10>
Hey boys and girls>I would be interested in making a BOV system that was controlled by
>the ECU. It knows the position of the throttle plate, so it knows
>when the valve should open/close. Anyone know of an electronic
>air valve big enough to flow the air we need?
How about a boost solenoid pushing the plunger of the BOV instead of the
wastegate actuator? Feasible? Todd, you have a hell of an idea there!
Maybe you won't have to go thru the trouble of making the ECU control
it? Just use some type of logic circuit to open/close the BOV according
to TPS voltage? Or maybe use the differential pressure sensor to
control the BOV? Do I ask too many questions???
[We discussed this in IRC and came to the conclusion that it would
have to be electronically actuated as there is not enough vacuum
at the right time to make it work properly. -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 03 Jan 1997 14:50:35 -0800
From: Chan Yi <chan@poi.net>
Subject: Alarm
Message-ID: <#11>
I was wondering if anyone on the list has the wiring diagram for a
Avital Champion Mark II alarm. I searched the archives and a post came up
but the email address in no longer valid. The persons email address was
mdsteve@access.digex.net. If this is your old email address or if you have
any info on where to get the wiring diagram for this alarm please email me.
I bought the alarm but the seller didn't have the installation manual and
local installers want to charge $100+.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 23:04:43 -0500
From: NMastrocol@aol.com
Subject: (1G,T) Bucking Horse Talon
Message-ID: <#12>
My 1991 Talon AWD bucks like a horse when I either step on the gas after
coasting or release the gas. It is worse at low speed in low gears. It has
150,000 km (95,000 miles). I know it can be a lot of things that cause this
but I am wondering if someone has had similar problems. If you have or have
any advise please let me know what is was and how you fixed it. Thanks.
[You probably have a loose rear differential. I have this exact same
problem. Rear diff is so loose that it almost feels like fuelcut
when you get on/off the throttle. -talon mgr]
Part 2: I'm looking at replacing my car with one that has a lot less milage
and then start modifying it. I saw a 1990 Talon AWD with very low milage and
never winter driven. I know that there were some changes after the 1990. Is
there anything I should be worried about on the 1990 or is there anything
about it that will limit its performance potential for modifications. (I
realy woluld like a 93 but this 90 is a good deal.)
Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 23:06:48 -0500
From: MBlue22999@aol.com
Subject: Re: Spark Plug Gap Width (Part II)
Message-ID: <#13>
>I am wondering about the effects of spark plug gapping. I am running high
boost
>with the 16g so my plugs are gapped less than the stock gap of .035". Are
there
>any negative results associated with running too small of a gap? How can you
tell
>if the gap is too small?
I recently discussed gap width on a Digest page last week, but I spoke of the
antithesis of small gaps by talking about the big ‘uns. I mentioned that
when a gap is too large, you can literally "blow out" your spark under high
end operation. Now we will discuss the other direction, a gap that may be
too small.
To begin with, there are many determining factors to find the correct gap for
an engine. A perfect spark should be an intensely concentrated spark between
a wide gap in the center of the combustion chamber. If the world were
perfect, all our gaps would be 0.50", but it is not a perfect world and we
have many limiting factors. To begin with, we must have an ignition system
that can provide enough energy to spark across that huge gap even under
some
wicked operating conditions. That may be feasible, but now we have to deal
with the physical characteristics of the spark plug which govern a spark
plug’s gap. To have a big gap, we would be exposing a long ground electrode
to some violent temps and it may have trouble cooling. With this large gap
you also must somehow convince the spark to travel to the end of the ground
electrode instead of the path of least resistance (which would be to the
side). That is literally impossible. The ceramic insulator may also see
problems by being exposed to extreme heating and cooling rates which can
cause thermal shock and crack it in half. Some engine developers have even
had their plugs hit the top of their piston looking for the optimal spark
with projected tips (not a pretty site).
Since I am sure you read my long post last week about the large gap widths
(yea, right), we can now speak of a gap that is too small. I have pretty
much already answered your question. Your engine wants a gap that will be
large enough to have good exposure to your A/F swirl in the combustion
chamber. The only real fear of going too small is that you will not have
healthy combustion every time, especially at low-end (idle) states. This
will increase emissions and may even misfire.
We can see that gap sizes change with pressure after comparing our own gap
recommendations for the turbos (0.032") vs. non-turbos (0.044"). If you have
goosed your car (like you have) you may see better results with a smaller gap
size under large load conditions. I would personally hesitate substantially
shrinking my gap size until I saw my vehicle breakup (misfire) on the high
end.
I hope this info helps you out.
Matt Blue
OEM Product Engineer
NGK Spark Plugs
’90 & ’91 Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 23:25:05 -0500
From: Eclipsedwc@aol.com
Subject: Famous Talon Digest Members
Message-ID: <#14>
I know this isn't exactly about DSM cars, but it is about Digest members,
and since I mentioned both, maybe it isn't too far off subject.:-)
In the Dec. 16, '96 issue of AutoWeek, in the Fast Poll column, Brian Hood
of Katy, TX tells of his worst moment as an IMSA rookie driver (along with
other readers best and worst moments of 1996).
At work this past week, while pretending to read computer-related industry
magazines instead of working, I read an article that mentioned a couple of
32-bit shareware programs. One was authored by Alex Kunadze. Is this our
Alex.
[Yes, he is the author of Cute-FTP. -talon mgr]
And last, but probably least, yours truly had a letter printed in the Jan.
'97 issue of Road&Track.
I'm sure there are other equally famous Digest members, probably writing
articles for technical journals and such :-). How about a web page for this
;-).
Happy new year
Dave Campbell
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Fri, 3 Jan 1997 23:32:10 -0500
The4Bangr@aol.com
Subject: transfer case, BOV
Message-ID: <#15>
Hi all,
Steve @ Alamo,
You misunderstood what the problem is with the transfer cases. Sure
sometimes the yokes leak at the actual seal at the rear of the transfer case,
that is a given. The trouble I was talking about is not the rubber seal at
all. There is a soft plug located at the base of the yoke. The reason you
need a butter knife to apply the sealant is the sealant goes between the back
of the yoke and the u-joint. There is only about a 1/2" of room in there.
Everyone knows about the seal, I think the soft plug is harder to find and
most guys didn't know about it. The only other way to fix the soft plug is
to take the yoke off and weld it.
Jim M.
You need the compressor bypass valve to work on the car. Yours is constantly
shut now right? It does stall the turbo, not stop it, just slows it down.
Buicks don't run compressor bypass valves mostly because they are
automatics, they never shift and once they start to accelerate the throttle
plate does not shut. Buick turbos, depending on which one, but the majority
of them are much cheaper than ours. They also have problems with breaking
shafts. Most of the bigger Buick turbos have the "big shaft" upgrade. Also
alot of the Buicks with front mounts and such do run the compressor bypass
valves. We tried one on ours (Dad's) and couldn't get it to work. You know
how ours idles like crap with the hose off? Well you should see a Buick.
Solution for having the hose off, buy a VPC. You will get rid of the fuel
cut and run without the hose. No matter what crushing the valve will help
the car run more boost without a leak. Like I said before Tym's car picked
up 3 psi crushing it.
BTW, as old as this same old stuff gets it is nice to see guys trying to come
up with new stuff.
Just added a TIG welder to the shop. I have been doing a little practicing,
the aluminum is tough. Anyone needing any special welding done can feel free
to contact me.
[If you really want some fun, try Al welding with a MIG welder. It is like
using a nail gun to staple together paper. -talon mgr]
Thanks all,
David Buschur
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 3 Jan 1997 23:32:10 -0500
From: Rob <rob@b4futures.net>
Subject: [1G,T] Finding one in Pgh, PA?
Message-ID: <#17>
Does anyone on this list have any advice or leads on 1G TSIs or GSXs in or
around Pittsburgh, PA that are for sale? I have been canvas-ing dealer lots
and checking all the papers, but thought maybe one of the list members might
be ready to move on to a 2G car and need to get rid of their 1G? Any help
is appreciated!
~ Rob
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 4 Jan 1997 12:50:10 -0500
From: STPK@aol.com
Subject: Ball Joints
Message-ID: <#18>
Just in case anyone is interested, during the replacement process for my
clutch, I found the lower ball joint to be defective. According to both
responses listed in the digest and in my shop manual, both sources said the
ball jont could not be replaced because the entire lower arm needs to be
replaced.
I did not think it was necessary to go to the expense of replacing whole arm,
which included Suspension Techniques bushings, so I tried to see if any of
the parts stores had a listing for the ball joint. Everyone that I called
listed a part.
The next step to check with machine shop to see if they could press out old
joint. My local NAPA machine shop did so with no problems pressing joint out
and have heard of no problems in doing so. They did the work for $15. The
only difference between old joint and new joint is that there is now a grease
fitting and there is a snap ring holding joint instead of a C clip. The part
cost $35..
Hopefully this can save somebody a great deal of money in the future.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 4 Jan 1997 14:23:25 -0500
Subject: Exhaust Noise
Message-ID: <#19>
Hey guys
Well I think I found the cause of my 4k+ growl. There are two spider cracks
in my exhaust manifold. So If anyone has a stock manifold they want to part
with or has an aftermarket one that they suggest feel free to RTP.
BTW, whats the difference between the 90 and 91 throttle body and are they
interchangeable.
Mario
('91 Talon NormAsp)
('90 Talon Tsi)
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 4 Jan 1997 17:19:57 -0500
From: SakmtoRcng@aol.com
Subject: Sakimoto Racing
Message-ID: <#20>
Hello all. Just letting you all know about us. We are a small time shop in
Jacksonville Florida thats beginning to sell some performance parts for the
DSM cars. We dont deal in much of the HIGH dollar stuff such as turbo
upgrades and electronic boost control, but we do carry plenty of stuff for
the DSMrs who are just starting out, turbo and non-turbo.... If you are
interested in an Email price list on what we have available so far, please
email a request and we will get back to you as soon as possible!
Ralph Chappell
Sakimoto Racing
Jacksonville Florida
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 4 Jan 1997 23:26:16 -0500
From: JChristou@aol.com
Subject: New Wheels
Message-ID: <#21>
I finally figured out how to make the archives work with this crippled AOL
software, so following Farzaan's posts I got some 16x8's with 35mm. offset.
They're ARE type 205 with metal hubcentric rings. Mounted on them are
245/45/16 RE71's
I paid $175 each for the wheels from a local speed shop, and $128 each for
the tires from TireRack.
No rubbing, and the front wheels stick out appx. 1/8" when viewed from
above(as expected). The ABS still works in the corners, even with the
increased scrub radius.
The handeling is much better, and will only improve as the tires wear in.
John C.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 00:33:20 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [All] Louisiana Car Show
Message-ID: <#22>
Hi,
Just got back from a car show in Gonzales, Louisiana, and it was
a pretty good turnout. More Hondas than I expected, but the DSM crowd
was represented proud by me and Steve (Alamo of Baton Rouge). Ton of
people still argued me up and down that my car was a Supra, but nobody
argued that Steve's couldn't do 12s (11s soon), and mine could do 12s with
slix and other major mods. (hopin' and prayin') A lot of people are
surprising me saying, yep, it's a turbo, see that donut honey?, and plenty
of people are modding their imports now.
White '95 GS-T had eibachs, 16" Anteras, and some "minor" engine
work. Said he could do 14s, 13.90s. We'll see when capitol drag opens
mid Jan. :)
Ton of hondas, suprised me. There has never been a honda to this
show B4, and now, 8 showed up. The fastest one there, (estimating), was
a Prelude VTEC, with some headwork, exhaust, intake, etc. done. He said
the he was doin' 14.50s, and I esimate his mods to cost 'round $2000.
I think he got jipped. NO DUCT TAPE EITHER! I couldn't even get him to
look at a roll I had in my trunk! (shucks)
Hit of the show (to me) was a Mercury Cougar (80?) that was on
a Ford 4WD chassis. [Pic on my site TBA] 4WD, 38" tires, 350ci motor.
It didn't look nice, I'll give it that!
Welp, enuff yappin', here ya go:
(gives the official Club DSM talkin' stick over to...)
Hank A. Bell "RUFRIDR"
P.S. Camber pics and FAQ should be ready within the next week or so,
definitely. Moral of this story: 1 hour photoshops lie, and if there's
a cheaper, way, Hank Bell will find it!
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 00:07:41 -0800
From: Derrick Chan <trapspeed@earthlink.net>
Subject: Intrax and Koni coil-overs
Message-ID: <#23>
Hey all...just got back from the Los Angeles Auto Show....pretty big
turn out. HKS was there showing off a couple of Eclipses. One red
convertible GS-T and one black GSX. The GSX was quite a site, and both
were 2nd gen cars.
Anyways..a spokesperson from Intrax was there showing off the Rod Millen
NATCC car. I spoke to him about the coil-overs they were displaying and
I asked him about setups for our cars. He told me they (Intrax) were
working closely with Koni in developing a kit for the 1st gen
cars. This Koni/Intrax setup will utilize a main spring and tender
spring combo. Unfortunately he didn't give any specs or details other
than the fact that they should release them in April....along with a
$1500 price tag(for all fours). Thought I'd let you guys know...
Derrick C.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 10:48:15 -0500
From: Brad Bauer <bbauer@losf1.gmu.edu>
Subject: [1G,T] EGR Blockoff Plate
Message-ID: <#24>
I am having the hot start problem, and would like to make a EGR blockoff
plate for the EGR valve. The service manual ('91) shows the EGR valve
with 2 outlets through a gasket to the intake manifold. Do you simply
replace the gasket with a solid piece of gasket, or do you use something
else.
Thanks,
Brad Bauer
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 5 Jan 1997 15:10:02 -0500
From: comfrt <comfrt@pipeline.com>
Subject: Tire Story / Mount and Balance Q
Message-ID: <#25>
Happy '97 Ladies and Gents:
My brother just replaced all four tires at a National Tire
Wholesale shop in Boston. When the salesman rang up the bill,
he offered an extended warrantee for about $ 50 total. My
brother asked if he could get this warrantee for only one tire, as
long as they wouldn't record the serial number for the specific
tire. Didn't happen.
Does anyone know the cheapest place to get tires mounted and
balanced? Here are approx. prices from my own experiences:
Firestone Dealer:
$ 30/tire for tires purchased there!
NTW:
$ 15/tire (they claim 10, but there are hidden fees) for tires
purchased there
'Bishi dealer in Northbrook, IL:
$ 30/tire for tires I brought from home
A friend of mine that drives a Saturn (he's not that good a
friend) just purchased a full set of tires from the Tire Rack and a
Saturn dealer near Minneapolis, MN charged him only $ 10/tire
for a mount and balance! I wonder if I could take my wheels to
a Saturn dealer when the snow melts. . .
Comfrt, '95 GSX with winter Firestones
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 17:03:39 -0500
From: Jason Allerding <jmainfo@cris.com>
Subject: [2G,T] Noise
Message-ID: <#26>
When I shift under high boost in my 97 GSX I am hearing a loud squeek
noise. I drove a 95 GST a while back and also heard this noise, but not
as loud. Has anybody else had this problem? I am wondering if it is the
BOV or the wastegate opening??
Thanks,
Jason
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 18:10:38 -0500
Subject: PMS Programming
Message-ID: <#27>
Anybody who has the PMS that has fine tuned their units could you please
e-mail me with more details on exactly what parameters you used. My mods
are listed on my web page at http://www.angelfire.com/me/jankord. Thanks
for your help.
Joe Jankord
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 17:02:31 -0800
From: Gregory Carlsen <gcarlsen@ieway.com>
Subject: 1G,T Acceleration "bounce", war story in the making
Message-ID: <#28>
Hi all! This is my first time posting but I have been reading the digest
for a few months now. Usual thanks to Todd for a job well done.
Long post
RTP
My question is that I have been having a problem (annoyance maybe) when
I accelerate at WOT after I shift from first to second. The car sounds
and feels like it is going over little tiny bumps in the road. It only
happens right after the first to second shift all the way through second
and then stops with third or when I get off the gas. Steering is not
affected in the slightest bit and seems to be coming more from the back
side of the car. I don't seem to loose any performance from it, however
it is very annoying and starting to worry me a little. I am running
stock wheels and tires (Grand Spirits I think, something cheep for the
winter) and don't recall having any such problem with my summer wheels
and tires. I do not have any abnormal steering problems or "bouncing" on
the freeway so I am sure it is not a bent rim or alignment. Any insight
or advice on what to check would be greatly appreciated.
On another note, I got in a huge argument with a "friend" (not really)
of mine about his "new" old car. He has always been telling me how I am
wasting my money on my car, that it will never beat a V8 built by him (I
have done no engine mods, just a filter and bleader valve and some
polishing of the intake elbows. New exhaust and fuel pump coming soon).
To my knowledge he has never built a V8 before, only bought them. Well,
any way, he just bought a '70 or '71 Cuda (I think) with a 440. I said
"Great! lets race." He then proceeds to get mad at the idea of me even
thinking I could beat him. I told him his car could come close to me let
alone get down to the elevens (where I want my car to go) for the price
that I could. He then tells me that with 5,000 he could make that car
break a 10 second quarter. I proceeded to fall down on the ground
laughing!! Do you guys think I should race him?? He doesn't plan to do
any mods to race me. If I should how much should I bet? A friend told me
if he is idling when he pulls up to me to take him for all he is willing
to bet. And about the 5,000 dollar 9.9 second remark, should I write him
a check for 5,000 and say "have at, if it doesn't do it, I get the car!"
or something to that toon?
Let me know
By the way, out of all the V8s that have pulled up to me on the street
none have beaten me with only one that kept up (a modified Stang. Boy
was he pist! :)
Gregory (wanting to kick some a$$) Carlsen
'92 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 21:02:58 -0500
From: Douglas Forest <forest@mnsinc.com>
Subject: For sale: 1993 Talon TSi AWD
Message-ID: <#29>
Hello, all!
Alas, I am selling my 1993 Talon TSi AWD; it=92s been a joy to own, but
unfortunately I need more of a grocery-getter that sips cheap gas!
The Talon is black and has 81,000 miles. It=92s got all the options
except the CD player and automatic transmission:
sunroof
leather interior (tan)
ABS brakes
cassette/equalizer (the eq has a Discman jack input on the front)
power door locks, windows, and mirrors
cruise control
air conditioning
Excalibur alarm
shop manuals
I=92m asking $9800.
I live in the Washington, DC area and can be reached at 540-882-4022 or
via e-mail at forest@mnsinc.com
Thanks for the bandwidth!
Doug Forest
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 05 Jan 1997 22:06:01 -0500
Subject: [1G] Re: Shifter mods (long)
Message-ID: <#30>
After _FINALLY_ catching up on 3 months of digests, I found the
shifter mod and did it. I have a 92 GSX. I have a lot of comments:
~ Step 3) I believe there might be something that keeps the
shifter base from resting flat on the tunnel so that the base will
touch the tunnel at the four bolt holes with the grommets not
present. I add two stacked 1" O.D. washers _UNDER_ the base
to raise the base to a height similar to what the grommets provided.
The first time I did the mod without the washers under the base
and thought that I perceived that the base was flexing as I tightened
the four bolts. That's what made me think that the base was teetering
on a high point in it's center and the base at the corners wouldn't all
touch at once. That's why I added the washers underneath.
After thinking some more (I know - dangerous) I thought I might some
day shorten the stock metal bushings and put them back in with the
grommets. This would compress the grommets more and give a stiffer
mounting with the grommets there for some sound isolation.
Oh yeah - a little motherhood here - put anti-seize on those bolts.
~ Step 3a) Quote from the shifter mod page: "...To adjust: You loosen
the two small nuts on that link. You can then turn the loop either
counter or clockwise to shorten or lengthen the cable."
Well, almost correct. Turn the _TURNBUCKLE_ (the long "nut"
between the two small nuts) after you loosen the two small
nuts. This gives infinite adjustment, whereas turning the loop
is a coarse discreet adjustment. Also note that the loop has a
bushing (black plastic) on it the is not the same on each side
of the loop, and the wider bushing side goes down against
the shifter arm. The correct procedure for adjusting this cable
(the select cable) is as follows: (guess where I got it :)
move transaxle shift lever (one nearest right side of car) to
it's (center) neutral position. (This is under the hood at the tranny)
(All this means is put the tranny and shifter in neutral.)
loosen the two small lock nuts, remove the cotter pin, turn the
turnbuckle so that the loop slides easily on and off the pin, hold the
turnbuckle in this position and tighten the two small nuts.
~SECOND.PART.OF.THE.SHIFTER.MOD:
The idea to remove the play in this portion of the shifter is great,
I just don't agree with the method (I know, I'm a picky bastard).
The shaft that the shifter handle mounts on that the mod page
says to add a piece of grommet or 9/16" washer to is a stepped
rod. The flat washer near the threaded end where the nut is
actually butts up against the step in the rod. On my car there
was about 0.015" play between the washer and the nylon bushing.
Adding more than this amount by installing a piece of grommet
or ordinary 9/16" washer is not the way to go. If you do what
is suggested on the page, you defeat the purpose of the stepped
rod, add the difficulty of not getting everything binding and
having to not tighten the nut so that the stock flat washer butts
against the step and having to snug it and use Locktite.
I took a piece of 0.015" shim-stock and made a thin washer that
just took up the play. Inserted this on the rod, then the first
bushing, then the shifter handle, then the next bushing, stock
flat washer, lock washer, and nut. No play, no Locktite. Nice.
~ New mod (call it a jury rig type adjustment :) :
At this point I went about adjusting the other cable that is moved
when the shifter is moved for-aft. It's called the shift cable, as
opposed to the select cable. To adjust it:
At the shifter, remove the cotter pin that attaches this cable
(the shift cable is the one on the right).
Remove the shift cable loop from the arm of the shifter and
push it forward, making sure it goes all the way. Push in the
clutch to help make this easier. Move the shift lever back into
the 4th gear position. Check to see that the shift lever loop
slides on and of the shift arm pin easily. If it doesn't, loosen
the two small nuts next to the turnbuckle adjuster on the
shift cable and turn the adjuster turnbuckle until it slides
on and off easily. (While doing this be sure you aren't
leaning too hard on the shift lever, or you'll be deflecting
the rubber bumpstop on the shift lever and getting the
adjustment wrong.) Tighten the two small nuts. Put the
shift cable on the pin and install the cotter pin.
I noted on my car that the adjustment was to spec as above,
but after pushing the shifter up to 3rd (with the cable
attached) and then removing the cable, that the cable was too long.
(Maybe that's why 3rd has been grinding and 1st is a bitch to
get engaged, I think to myself.) What I found was that I had
to push on the shifter to get the loop to slip on easy. The rubber
stop on the shifter hits either flange of that channel looking
structure of the shifter to function as mechanical stops for the
shifter. My shifter needed to be forced against the rubber stop to
be able to get enough throw of the shifter without deforming the
rubber stop so that the cable would slide on and off the pin
in the 3rd and 4th directions. This was after trying to adjust the
cable longer and shorter a few times.
The solution? Open the "channel" up a slight bit to give the shifter
slightly more throw. I'm talking slightly here. Grab the channel
near where the rubber bumpstop hits it with some VG's (sorry,
ViseGrips) and gently bend the channel flange open. So little,
that you can't even visually perceive the bend, but just feel it
begin to give. A little trial and error and I found that I could open
up the channel a visually imperceptible amount that gave the
shifter just enough more throw so that the cable slid on and off
the pin of the shifter arm easily in both the 3rd and 4th positions
without deforming the rubber bump stop.
I know this sounds unorthodox, but it worked. I now have a
solid shifting car that doesn't grind like it used to.
First round, I did the mod as listed on the shifter mod page
(Nice job Dean et al!) but used the shim stock washer on the
second part, then adjusted both cables as best I could.
Took it for a drive. Definitely better, but I had trouble with grinding
going to 2nd now instead of 3rd (due to my adjustment of the
shift cable where I made is slide on and off easily in the 3rd
position, since that's where I had grinding).
Next round:
Then I went back and added the washers _underneath_ the shifter
base and revisited the shift cable adjustment. That's when I came
up with this last part about opening that channel to get more throw.
It shifted great! No grinding and I don't have to force the shifter
against that rubber bump stop to engage the synchros enough to
do their job (just my theory of why it shifts better).
****
Just a thought. Is it possible that some variation in the dimension
of that channel opening from one car to the other, combined with
just slightly off shift cable adjustment, is the reason that some
of these cars shift fine (I've heard of it and seen it) and others like
mine have shifted like crap (until now)? Could the opening in the
channel being too small (slightly) cause the synchros to not be
push against the hub enough to get them to act as needed?
My car has been through 2 trannies and 4 rebuilds, all of which
were better (still not right) at first, but got worse within a few
thousand miles. It feels a lot better now and I haven't gotten
it to grind yet where it used to before. Could I be on to something
here? I'm trying to be modest, but I hope somebody else with
chronic grinding/bad shifting problems tries my "increase the throw"
mod and has success. I'm going to talk it over with my Mitsu
master mechanic (who's quite good) and see what he knows about
this area.
O.K. That's it. Sorry if it was too long or picky, I'm a perfectionist
about mechanisms :)
Cheers,
** Pete Paraska
** 73 240Z under restification & V8 swap ** IZCC #15
** 92 Eclipse GSX * 85 Maxima
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 02:25:39 -0500
Subject: 5.0 Fuel Pumps + Evil Mileage
Message-ID: <#31>
Hi all. I have been keeping up on the Ford 5.0 Fuel Pump discussion
going on, and I have a few questions. OK, the stock pump flows 48gph,
and the upgraded in tanks flow 70. The 5.0's have been called 170lph or
190lph pumps. To show my stupidity, isn't that 45gph or 50gph,
respectively? (3.78L=1G) Granted, they are supposed to flow to 90 psi,
more than the DSM pumps, but what gives? Is the 190lph pump actually
not "190 Liters Per Hour"? Oh well, if it works.... PS - George, can I
please get that diagram of the bracket you needed to make, RTP.
Thanks. Also, this is just hearsay right now, but I may be able to get
a discount on pumps if I can get like 3 or 4 other people who want one.
I got a friend into SVO stuff. Nothing big, maybe $20 off, but hey, an
upgraded FP for under $100?!? RTP me for details, first mailed first
served.
Update: I STILL have the official, DaveB certified, WORST DSM GAS
MILEAGE. I swear I'm gonna get a plaque made up or something... Maybe
16mpg if you drive nice, 14 if not. I got 15.2 on the last tank.
There's something wrong when you have to fill 'er up every 200 miles, at
$1.46 per gallon too! Damn oil companies, damn premium gas ;) Mods
include a K&N, airbox stuff, NGK plugs and wires, Dynomax, DaveB bleeder
@15psi, and not much else. The hell of it is that the car drives
perfectly, power everywhere, never problems. I had to put the MAF back
to stock (from de-honeycomed and screwed out) to fix some goofy cold
weather idle and acceleration stuff. PLEASE, if you have ANY
suggestions, RTP, I've already tried everything DaveB can think of on
the spot (thanks!). I'm systematically testing every damn senser in the
car with the service manual, so far, so good. BAD! I WISH it were a
busted senser, that'd be much easier. HELP! I pay $0.10 a mile, that's
like renting the damn thing! I'll pay, I'm addicted to boost, but I'd
LOVE a piece of that 24mpg everyone's got. Thanks in advance for all of
you that I KNOW are out there that're gonna fix me up!
Mark Hessler
PS - Todd, one small thought. I get no error lights/codes, but could
the ECU just be Royally F*cked? I run a .998 F/A all the time, my 3
month old BPR7Es are already black and caked with carbon, super rich all
the time. You're the ECU God, maybe something's wrong in there. Could
I borrow one of yours to test my theory? ;)
[Uhhh... sounds like your oxy sensor is gone... It is really tough to
get the first gen ECU to flag an oxy sensor error. You try replacing
it yet? -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 00:56:37 -0800 (PST)
From: "anthony p. nguyen" <anguyen@scudc.scu.edu>
Subject: more hot stuff...
Message-ID: <#32>
Thanks guys for some of the help and advice. I forgot to say that my car
is a 90 turbo.
I don't think it is the thermostat since my radiator and hoses DO get
hot.
To the members in the bay area, don't go to Capitol Mitsubishi. I took
my car in early friday morning and had them run a diagnostic. They did
the seatbell recall while it was there. I came back and they told me
that they can't find a problem with the coolant system and that it's
probably my head--either a blown gasket or a cracked or warped head. He
says for about $900, he can take the head off and send it to a machine
shop to have them fix it. I started laughing. I just stood there and
laughed.
Do you know how much they charge for a freaking diagnostic? $75
bucks!!! The bastards! And I asked the guy if I get some kind of
print-out of the test results or something to take home with me. Instead
they gave me a big f*ck you.
The guy said the fans and electrical system checked out okay...he said
some bull about how when the car overheats, the fans can't come on or
fails to come on. whatever.
So, I'm gonna get a compression test done soon. Maybe that'll tell me
something..thing is, I just did a compression test when my turbo was
blowing smoke a couple months back and so I can't see how I would have
blew the gasket.
Thanks for everybody's help. I'll keep the digest posted.
Anthony
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 06 Jan 97 07:42:56 EST
From: Frank Mowry <fmowry@ngs.noaa.gov>
Subject: Dave B. gets a mention on Miata.net
Message-ID: <#33>
Saw this on the Miata.net mailing list. Discussions came up regarding a
10 sec Miata (yeah, right). This progressed to fast Japanese cars.
Which ended up with this:
>There is a lunatic by the name of Dave Buschur who has an 11.3 sec
>123mph DSM (Diamond Star Motors) w/out nitrous. SERIOUS
>modifications, but AWSOME results.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 97 8:28:58 EST
Subject: Tint laws by state
Message-ID: <#34>
Re: Tinted windows
>Are they illegal in MI or are yours super dark? What about other states?
The January issue of Street Performance magazine has a 50 state listing of
tint laws, vehicle height laws, and accessory lighting laws.
It also has a pretty nice 95 GSX that runs 12.9's. The interior looks really
trick. I think it was built by Imagine motors.
If you guys had a choice between replacing a 2.5" pressbent downpipe with a
3" mandrel bent downpipe or replacing a stock intercooler with a front mount
intercooler, which would you choose?
This would be while using a 16G turbo with a 3" cat back exhaust with a 20G
about to be installed very very soon.
Take care,
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 09:38:55 -0600
Subject: {2g,t,awd,at] dome light/ radio problem part 2
Message-ID: <#35>
Well I got smart(or at least smarter) and checked the service manual about
my problem. It would seem that the overhead light problem is due to a bad
etac/ecu. I am basing this on the fact that a series of other problems have
shown up: no key in ignition warning, no headlight on warning, doors won't
lock when car is running w/ doors closed, 2 turns of the key in driver side
door won't open passenger side door lock, door ajar light doesn't come on.
I can't seem to see where there would be a connection to the radio losing
its presets and time when the car is turned off though. I started the
trouble shooting flow chart for the radio but haven't checked the harness
behind it yet. Any thoughts on a possible relation or alternative cause for
the problem? Does anyone in the Chicago area have access to the scanner
needed to checkout the etac/ecu? If so please let me know(I'd hate to fork
out for a new etac-ecu and find out its not the problem). Thanks In
Advance(TIA) Stan
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 10:56:09 -0500 (EST)
From: "Juan A. Pons" <jpons@iacnet.com>
Subject: [2G, T] TSB info
Message-ID: <#36>
Hello,
I've read quite a few messages about the TSB's for the 2G Eclipses
including the fuel tank TSB. I can't find the TSB's for the car anywhere,
not on the www.dsm.org pages nor searching back trhough the digests. Am I
missing something here? Can someone please point me to where I can get TSB
info on my '96 Eclispe GS-T Spyder.
[You should get a recall notice in the mail. If not, call your dealer
about it. -talon mgr]
Thanks,
~J
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 08:41:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Jake McClean <sin@value.net>
Subject: [2g] Hoods..
Message-ID: <#37>
Heyas,
For you 2G owners, any idea how difficult it is to *remove* the hood from
the car? I got a truly *nasty* couple of rock chips, right in the center
of my immaculate white hood this weekend.. I was draggin on a lonnnnng
straight back road with my friend in his Acura NSX.. hehehe. (For those
interested, we made three runs: The first two from a standstill he took me
by about 2-3 carlengths to 110mph, but the third run we started from 2nd
at about 20mph, and I beat him by almost 2 car lengths to 110, although he
was gaining FAST at the end...) Blech, I need MORE BOOST. :)
Anyway, back to my point. I'd like to remove my hood an have it
repainted, as the chips were so harsh that they got down to the metal
and are about 1/4" in size, and very noticeable. Past experience has
shown me that a good deal of the cost involved in repainting sections of
the car comes from the shop doing the work having to remove/replace the
body parts being painted. I'd lke to be able to remove/replace the hood
myself and save some cash. Opinions?
[Just buy some touch-up paint and fill in the holes. -talon mgr]
Oh, and is there a cheap way to fill/repair windshield glass-chips as
well?
Jake
95 Eclipse GST
"1GST2NV"
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 11:02:18 CST
From: "Tome" <TTRAJKOV@iunhaw1.iun.indiana.edu>
Subject: overheating
Message-ID: <#38>
>If anybody can offer ANY help--something that I missed, I would really
>appreciate it.
*This is regarding an overheating condition which has had the thermostat
*replaced along with a flush of the system and still the engine
*overheats.
Anthony,
Recheck the thermostat as Todd indicated.
Also, These modern cooling systems can build air pockets in the system,
if antifreeze is put in incorrectly, which will mimick bad thermostats.
A constant open thermostat is better than a constant closed one. But,
the problem here could be that you did not purge the system of any air
that may have become trapped in the coolant system. When replacing
antifreeze after flushing the system, you should pour your antifreeze
solution in and then start the car, the engine will warm and as it does
the thermostat will open and fluid will begin to circulate. As the level
starts to drop add more fluid till it is full. I've been told to keep
the cap open until the system is circulating freely and any air pockets
will work their way out.
You may want to open your thermostat cap and run the car. Sometimes
there is so much air in the system the it may take a few volcanic like
uppourings of antifreeze till the system is purged. This air-in-system
condition will cause overheating. Good luck.
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 12:10:11 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [All] That There Redneck A-ward
Message-ID: <#39>
Yeee Haw!
Howdy folks. How ya'll doin'? There's been some discussion on
IRC lately about a contest at the May Shootout. What contest, u say?
Biggest DSM Redneck. Yep, u guessed it, and I'm one of the finalists.
Don't laugh, cause either you are one, or you know one.
Anyways, it's rumored that there's gonna be a trophy, and a bunch
of high-fatootin' prizes to be mine -I mean- won. So, while still in the
developmental phase, you can still be thinking of who yer gunna vote fer.
Why don't you vote fer that 19year old Louisiana boy with the cute lil'
black go-cart and horsey?
As far as my application goes, heck, here it is:
Born in Ferriday, LA (same as Jimmy Swaggart and Jerry Lee Lewis)
Lives in Livingston Parish, LA. (David Duke ring a bell?)
Lives on a farm with horses, cows, ducks, a goose, a dog, and a pesky
nutra rat that won't go away!
Hauls horse feed in his $25,000 DSM even though his daddy's Dodge Ram has
a full tank of gas and has been at bay for 2 months. That's 14 sacks of
10% Nutrena Horse Feed @50lbs. each!
(I'll have pics on the horse feed TREK tomorrow)
Had a Rebel Flag license PL8 on his '95 GS-T (wrecked)
Actually planned and went on a trip to Bunkie, LA (Big points here!)
Family Tree has the fewest branches around.
Knows Jeff Foxworthy's home phone # and pager #.
Knows what the words Goulash, Etoufee, Jambalaya are.
Was gonna put a gun rack (hehe IRC), but the woofers (dogs) got in the
way.
Doesn't like country at all, but has 4 FM presets. (4 the girls)
Can hear a crippled Norwegian freighter a mile away.
and lastly, actually had horse poop on his 18" tires/rims! YUCK!
Thank you for your patience, and I hope you choose wisely.
Vote Hank "<spat> <wipe chin>" Bell.
"RUFRIDR"
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 12:11:14 -0600 (CST)
From: William Ostlund <wostlund@visi.com>
Subject: [2G, T] gas tank recall-talon
Message-ID: <#40>
Hi,
I just got back from dropping my car off for the recall. I want to thank
whoever spent the time to put up the website for the recall notice, (sorry
forgot your email address). I downloaded it, and put the copy right on the
dash. When I mentioned to the service manager about the the full tank of
gas, he said he didnt know anything about that. So I told him I had a copy
of the recall notice in the car detailing the fact that gas is supposed to
be included. He just lookeed at me, said well if its in the recall notice...
So you talon owners out there, bring the proof with you! Here is the url
again,
http://www.cs.cmu.edu/afs/cs.cmu.edu/user/jcrb/WWW/auto/dsm/recall/recall.ht
ml
Bill
'95 TSI/AWD
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 12:45:48 -0600
From: Kevan Riley <Kriley@pophost.com>
Subject: CFDF on 1G T AWD & misc responses
Message-ID: <#41>
Greetings Fellow DSMers,
I just finished installing my first DSM clutch, a CFDF! It took quite a
bit of time, but Robert Arrowood and I were able to get completely done
with mine and half way on his by noon Sunday starting Fri after work.
Thanks to OX for a great FAQ. I would like to suggest a listing of the
number of bolts for each of the parts. If I get the time I ay try to
compile one while Robert and I put his car back together. It would have
been much slower if I had not had the How-To to look at. The hardest
part is getting the tranny in and out once the bolts are all out. It
just bearly fits in there, and if it is not just so it hits this or
that.
I am liking the CFDF, I'll keep you guys posted once the breakin period
is up and i can start abusing it. Thanks to Dave B. for geting the
clutches to us as fast as he could with al the Christmas postage excess.
>dmy1382@unix.tamu.edu
> on Diff Socket size
I just changed out my fuids the other night. The socket in question is
either a 19mm or 24mm. I am pretty sure it is the 24mm. Commonly used
large sockets are 15, 17, 19, 24mm. It would be good to have each of
them on hand anyway. I can't think of having used a socked between 19mm
and 24mm on the talon. As for thin walled, My sockets aren't special,
and I have not had any problems with any of them. Look for the washers
when you take the bolts off. They tend to stick to the engine and then
fall off in the oil. Also the bolt on the center diff. is magnetic, and
will have a black mud of worn off metal on it, so don't be suprised by
it. It is OK.
>To: b-grane@students.uiuc.edu
> Transefer Case Work
I am sorry to hear about your X-fer case problem. If it is infact dry,
it is ruined. I would have them let me see it first though. That is a
big ticket item they stand to make good money off of. Especially at the
amount of time they told you. It takes about 30 min to remove one. I
have no idea why they told you so long. I know, I just changed my
clutch out this week end, and the xfer is one of the parts that has to
come off in the process. It is a peice of cake to tkat loose from the
tranny, it is heavey though. I didn't seperate it from the drive shaft,
though, I would not expect it to be a big deal either. Ask Dave B. I
think he mentioned having one or two.
>To: Mario@chip.cba.ufl.edu
> 4K rpm noise
Exhuast leaks are usually variable with engine temp. That is, you will
notice it while cold then it will usually quiten up when warm.
Kevan
`91 Red Talon AWD
------------------------------
From bouncer Tue Jan 7 12:37:47 1997
for talon-digest-approved on Tue, 7 Jan 1997 12:37:46 -0800
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 12:00:07 -0800
Sender: owner-talon
Precedence: list
Talon Digest for Tuesday, January 7, 1997
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) Kristian Steenstrup Turbos in Denver [G1 - T - AWD]
2) Tory M. Blue
second gen fuel pump
3) Joe Jankord
PMS MAF Temp Probe
4) Joseph P. Cernada Galant GSR ?
5) Chris LaFournaise (c [2G, T] Spark Plug TSB
6) Bobby Bernauer
Mitsubishi Elcipse question
7) ERIC PLEBANI
DSM Oil Caps
8) Marc S
Near stock DSM vs 440 Cuda
9) Hopkins John (Intera Plug gap
10) The4Bangr
Beating a dead horse.......Dealers and transfer ca
11) Mike Kanaly
Clear Corners??? Eugene, OR Performance Shops???
12) lowell
CBVs.
13) M3GTVR4
<2G/T> How much boost???
14) Bryan J. McGlade
clean oil in air cleaner-to-turbo intake pipe
15) CALABRESE, MARC
Not a fuel-cut problem...
16) leonard olteanu
2G,T,FWD question
17) James Roth
EGR Block Off & [1G] Cruising Studders
18) Jeff Sammaritano
1GT, 93GSX questions
19) gselph
Broken belt scare
20) dan
Hi flow cat vs. test pipe [T, 1G]
21) Tom Jurczak
Scraping Brake Rotor (2G, T, FWD)
22)
23)
24)
25)
26)
Phil Deneau
[1g t awd] Price for high mileage car?
Victor DelCol-YEGR07 [2G,T] Leaking 95 Gas Tank
RICHARD HELM
Can't get on IRC
Damon Root
I need a left front axle and spindle
Nial Pye
Fuel Tank Recall for 97's???
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
9am.
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 13:33:51 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Turbos in Denver [G1 - T - AWD]
Message-ID: <#1>
I posted a question about turbos replacement recently and got many very
helpful replies. Thank you all.
I decided to do the replacement myself after getting some guidance from
others. I also sourced the parts from Dave Bucher racing after much hunting
high and low for the best deal.
I have already disassembled things and this week I will receive the parts
and reassemble the turbo. My intention is to post a report on this when all
is well again. This may be of benefit to others (or maybe not) as a novices
guide to turbo replacement, which seems to be reasonably common.
After getting various ideas on the cause of this I think the most likely
theory is that a recent (4 weeks ago) oil change by an incompetent lube
place (names after I get legal clearance) left the turbo oil galleries empty
on start up. This caused some initial damage which was exacerbated by poor
oil used.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 12:59:18 +0000
From: "Tory M. Blue" <tblue@capella.com>
Subject: second gen fuel pump
Message-ID: <#2>
Hey all,
Just curious has anyone flowed tested the second gen pump or anyone
know the numbers? It is totally different then the first gen. I would
be interested in the number if you have them
Thanks,
Tory
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 17:07:52 -0500
Subject: PMS MAF Temp Probe
Message-ID: <#3>
I have a quick question regarding the upgraded MAF for the PMS Unit. The
temp probe that goes through the plate and sits next to the air filter
does the black heat shrink tubbing come off the probe or does the sensor
work just fine with the wrap on? Thanks for all of your help!
Joe Jankord
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 17:41:53 +0500
From: "Joseph P. Cernada" <joec@tpg.com>
Subject: Galant GSR ?
Message-ID: <#4>
Anyone want to claim a previous generation Galant (~1992) that was on
the NY Taconic State Parkway this morning? Thought it might be a VR4,
but the label said GSR (yes R). I know there were GSX's (AWD), and
VR4's (Turbo AWD). Is the GSR just someone adding an R sticker to a
GS?
Joseph P. Cernada
joec@tpg.com
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 16:21:44 -0800
From: "Chris LaFournaise (cjl)" <cjl@sequent.com>
Subject: [2G, T] Spark Plug TSB
Message-ID: <#5>
For those of you keeping track, one month ago I took my '95 AWD in
the shop to have a bad idle looked at. They started by ordering new
spark plugs as defined by a TSB. Upon receiving the plugs, they
decided they wouldn't work (the physical size prevented them from
using them somehow) so they called the factory, at which time they
were told to just ignore the TSB, "it doesn't matter". Fine; so they
just put some new plugs in and called it fixed.
WRONG! The car started better in the morning, but still ran awful
rough until completely warm. Once warm, if I were to shut the car
off, then restart it, it would idle very bad again for a while.
So I took the car into a different shop. They said, "oh, there was a
TSB on the plugs so we replaced them with these others that had a
different heat range". Lo and behold, the car runs much better now.
I also had the fuel tank recall performed. Don't let them tell you
they can do this in a couple hours-- it took this shop all day.
Now the question is, after the repairs the engine noise is much, much
louder than before, as if the exhaust system had a hole. The noise
is tied to the RPM (as opposed to the wheel speed) and gets defaning
around 5K RPM. Any ideas? I'm going to take it back to the shop
asap.
Cheers,
Chris
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 18:56:27 -0600
From: "Bobby Bernauer" <bobbyb@maas.net>
Subject: Mitsubishi Elcipse question
Message-ID: <#6>
Hey there everyone..
I have a 1995 Mitsubishi Elcipse, just about completely stock. My door
panels (the plastic/vinyl or whatever) and the back panels and all the
plastic panel like things are grey. I want to get these redone in black.
I talked to the dealer, and they wanted $320 for ONE door panel! Heck no!
I would like to dye my panels black. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Please reply via email!
Bobby
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 19:55:12, -0500
From: EXZC94C@prodigy.com (ERIC PLEBANI)
Subject: DSM Oil Caps
Message-ID: <#7>
Hey everybody,
I am just about complete on my first batch of club DSM oil caps.
For those who don't know , it is an
aluminum cap with a mirrored insert, with the club DSM logo sand
blasted on it. These caps will brighten
up any engine bay, and are a must for you guys who show your cars (
like me ). The going rate is
$35.00 and I pay shipping. I can also do custom etching in the
mirrored center (like if you wanted your
cars name on the cap) They don't do much for performance but they
sure look nice.
I can also take those bland EX-manifold heat shields and blast club
DSM or other custom graphics
onto them (mine has the eagle head) People do a double take all the
time (esp. car show judges).
So if anyone is interested E-mail me and let me know
BTW I will be getting some pics and a page for the site soon
stay tuned
Eric
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 18:43:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Marc S <marcst@netcom.com>
Subject: Near stock DSM vs 440 Cuda
Message-ID: <#8>
Gregory:
Find out if it's a 440 six-pack. Ever hear of a 426 Hemi? The 440
Sixpack didn't have the same claim to fame but wasn't far off at all
in the acceleration runs. Major horsepower and torque.
Regardless, you should not take a 70-71 Cuda with a 440 for granted.
If he gets traction, you may very well eat dust. If memory
serves, that car stock could run high 13's in the quarter if it had
decent traction. I had a friend with a stock 383 Cuda who ran mid
traction-limited 14's.
As for breaking a 10 with another $5k, I think it's possible.
By the way, breaking a 10 means 10.99, not 9.99. The latter is breaking
into the 9's. Anyways, invest some of the $$ into putting some mammoth
slicks on the rear (potentially yielding high 12's right there with a 440
six pack!), get a strong clutch, and stick on a fogger nitrous system as
the primary power add-on. Not saying it's easy, but it's possible.
Just don't make the mistake of thinking a 440 big block is some 5.0 or
4.6 Ford engine. Now, if he pulls up with skinny tires on the rear that
aren't slicks, take his money :)
~Marc
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 06 Jan 97 22:47:00 EST
From: "Hopkins John (Interactive Sys)" <HopkinsJ@rnd3.indy.tce.com>
Subject: Plug gap
Message-ID: <#9>
Matt Blue,
If the spark is "blown out" by the swirl in the combustion chamber won't
the plug restrike if there is enough energy left in the ignition coil? I
know many engines I tested "multi-sparked" & they seemed to run the same.
The main problem seemed to be getting enough energy to the plug. Maybe
we [talon owners] need to look into a higher energy coil pack. What
happens then? It couldn't hurt could it? How's about someone doing a
coil near plug project & getting rid of the plug wires!
John Hopkins
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 23:04:24 -0500
Subject: Beating a dead horse.......Dealers and transfer cases
Message-ID: <#10>
Well here we go again, the compressor bypass valve. What a topic. I am not
even going to waste the time this time. I only want to add a few things.
It has been mentioned that some of the aftermarket CBV's use two ports. One
on top of the diaphram and one on the bottom. This is suppose to equalize
the pressure. This is correct and it does work. I have tried 3 different
CBV's. I have tried the Super Blow Off Valve, the Sequential and the Racing,
all by HKS. Which one works best? The stock valve crushed! Which one do I
run? The sequential. Why? Well because there isn't that much difference in
any of them and the Super and Seq. both take a special mount to put them on
the intercooler pipe. Since I already have the mount I have chosen to just
keep the vavle. Now I sell HKS parts and there is good money in it, so if
this wasn't the truth don't you think I would gladly feed all you guys a
bunch of sh** to sell some? Dennis, Bill and Tym are all in the 11.5-1.6's
and run the stock crushed valve. They work great. Anyway, I'm getting a
little old and got side tracked, back to the two ports. I put a ton of stuff
on the car over the winter 4 years ago, front mount, fuel cell and the
Superblow off. Anyway brought the car out in the spring and the thing was
really lazy between gears. Wouldn't respool. The MPH was pretty decent
though. So my brother was there (the track) with me and said the car was
just laying down in 3rd gear. He shows me on his video camera (at the track
still) what the car looks like. It would leave really hard, the 2nd gear
shift looked good and then when it shifted to 3rd the car never lifted in the
front or anything. Well nothing makes sense. All these great new parts the
car should be flying. I start scratching my head and thinking while looking
under the hood. Just doesn't make sense. What the heck could cause the car
to do this. So I make another pass and watch the boost gauge between shifts.
Normal in 1st, not bad in 2nd but what the hell!? At the 3rd gear shift the
boost doesn't come up. Just lays there really low until really high in the
RPM range. Same with 4th. Back to the pits. Start looking again. WAIT!
What if the CBV was hanging open from boost being applied to both sides of
the valve? I take the top port off and leave just the side port hooked up
and try it again..The pass before I found this it ran 12.43, I disconnected
the hose on the top and it ran 12.05 and then 11.97 (BTW, I just looked these
times up in the records I keep so it is correct). So the two ports do one
thing on those valves, they keep the car from compressor surging, the reason
is they hang the valve open. The only thing left to close it is the spring
itself. No, you want adjustable? I don't think so, you can't adjust it
enough to keep it closed at idle and not compressor surge violently. I heard
more compressor surge in Florida at the Drag Wars than I think I have ever
heard in my life. You may as well not have a valve if it is that tight. The
Super is not adjustable. It has a little bit of comp. surge on my car. The
Sequential was suppose to eliminate that, it is just as bad or worse than the
Super on its weakest adjustment. Besides that it is made of plastic, for
that kind of money it should be made of billet aluminum. Like they say, HK$.
The stock unit does not surge, works great when crushed a little to raise
the spring rate and doesn't cost you a penny, why mess with it?
Brad,
You dealer told you what? That transfer case is held on by 5 bolts that are
easily reached. The only thing in the way is the downpipe and that is held
on by two nuts and a hanger. If I had a lift I could have it off in no more
than a 1/2 hour. So can the dealer. You should check around for a transfer
case and do it yourself. I have a feeling unless it is under warranty you
are about to take a dicking.
You can call me if you like I have a few t-cases. I have two used '90's and
a few new 91-94's.
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
419-929-2378
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 06 Jan 1997 21:33:24 -0800
From: Mike Kanaly <mkanaly@gladstone.uoregon.edu>
Subject: Clear Corners??? Eugene, OR Performance Shops???
Message-ID: <#11>
I want to know if any car company that anyone knows of sells clear
corners for 1990 t/e/l's. At the all import nationals this past summer in
Pomona, a Mitsubishi Eclipse owner had them and told me he did it himself.
He basically said that he pried apart the seal on the corners, (after
removing the corners from the body) and carefully cut the amber part out. He
then re-sealed the corner piece without the amber inside. It looked really
trick. There's got to be an easier way than this...
Has anyone Attempted /heard of /seen the clear corner mod on E/T/L's?
Does any company sell the clear corners for a 1990 E/T/L? if so, Phone
Number???
What do I have to do to access the amber corners???
was the mod really that difficult?
I'd really prefer to buy the corners clear, than have to do this manually.
If it comes down to it though, I will do this myself. I know that Turbo
Magazine, Sport Compact Car, and Super Street have ads for other cars clear
corners, but I've never seen any for E/T/L's.
Thanks, Mike
P.S. Does anybody know of any cool import performance shops in the Eugene,
Oregon area??? The car scene here really sux :(
Go To My Homepage!!! http://gladstone.uoregon.edu/~mkanaly It's Fat
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 6 Jan 1997 22:48:33 -0800 (PST)
From: lowell@smartt.com
Subject: CBVs.
Message-ID: <#12>
My Procharger came with a butterfly style compressor bypass valve with just
one connection to the manifold. Boost pushes it shut and vacuum snaps it
open. I must be missing something, since a butterfly valve doesn't care how
much pressure is on the manifold side, will never leak under pressure, and
mine seemed to pop open instantly on lift throttle and give that nifty
whoosh. Also, if you've ever looked at a Corrado G60, the CBV is a
butterfly valve on a linkage with the throttle cable so that it is open at
idle and fully closed at WOT. Weird looking but works well. The only
difference I can think of is that these are for superchargers. Do turbos
need something different from blowers?
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 03:19:15 -0500
From: M3GTVR4@aol.com
Subject: <2G/T> How much boost???
Message-ID: <#13>
Hi everybody, I have a question for all you gurus out there. I just got some
new toys this New year from Dave B. So far I have already put in the NGK
spark plugs(gap @ 0028) and the fuel pump(that is tough to put in). Only
thing left is the boost controller. My question is, what is the maximum boost
I could I run to be safe on pump gas? And should I test run the thing in full
throttle or partial throttle? BTW, I have the following done to my car. K&N
FIPR, HK$ exhaust, 2.5" downpipe, Bushur fuel pump, NGK plugs, lower
intercooler pipe w/ Greddy Type S' BOV and IMP 30lbs boost gauge. Thanks.
Lee
96' Eclipse GSX
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 97 07:24:52 CST
From: mcglbj@rdxsunhost.aud.alcatel.com (Bryan J. McGlade)
Subject: clean oil in air cleaner-to-turbo intake pipe
Message-ID: <#14>
G'day -As I was replacing the backup switch in the gear obx I had removed the
air box from the big rubber pipe that connects it to the turbo air
intake. As I looked into the big rubber pipe I saw that there was a
nice coating of clean clear oil and there looked like there was a small
puddle of it down near the turbo air intake hole.
Is this ok?
Where has it come from? Why is it clean?
My theory as to how it got there is that it either came out of the
turbo oil seal directly or has circulated through the inter cooler and
then back through the BOV.
I would have thought if any oil was in there it would have been dirty
like the engine oil assuming it came from a leaky turbo oil seal (that
car after all is burning oil somewhere).
I guess this must be the oil that I have been reading about for so
long.
Any thoughts?
thx
Bryan.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 08:20 EST
From: CALABRES@mailgate.navsses.navy.mil (CALABRESE, MARC)
Subject: Not a fuel-cut problem...
Message-ID: <#15>
I have a '91 Talon TSi with 45,000 well-maintained miles. The car is
completely stock. Recently, I have been experiencing abrupt and violent
loss of power upon hard acceleration, usually in second gear, at about
4000-5000 rpm. The power loss lasts only a split second, and only occurs
once. It also occured independent of ambient temperature. Not knowing
too much about fuel-cut, I just assumed that was what it was. Last
weekend, this power-loss was followed by general poor performance,
misfiring, and rough idle. To make the story short, I found a spark-plug
wire was arcing to the head. A new set of wires cured all problems. So,
if anyone is experiencing this type of "fuel-cut" symptom...be sure to
give the plug wires a good inspection (mine were the original wires.)
~Marc
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 08:31:31 -0500 (EST)
From: leonard olteanu <lolteanu@lynx.dac.neu.edu>
Subject: 2G,T,FWD question
Message-ID: <#16>
Hi all,
One of my friends is looking to buy a '95 Talon Tsi FWD and he doesn't
really know how much he should pay for it.
It's in very good shape like new inside and outside, no mods to the
engine.
It has a nice SONY, all digital head unit and a SONY 10 CD changer
It also has a VIPER alarm with keyless entry, starter kill, shock
sensor, etc
And it has the power windows/locks/cruise/AC package (23P)
Very low millage, only about 21K
How much would this be worth?
Thanks.
[RTP]
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 08:08:20 -0600
Subject: EGR Block Off & [1G] Cruising Studders
Message-ID: <#17>
>
>
>
>
The service manual ('91) shows the EGR valve
with 2 outlets through a gasket to the intake manifold. Do you
simply replace the gasket with a solid piece of gasket, or do
you use something else.
You can use a solid piece of gasket or just cut out a piece of thin sheet
metal in the shape of the gasket and drill the holes for the bolts. What I do
is I have a two valves in the hose just outside the EGR nipples. When I don't
want the EGR to be used I close the valves.
I have been having a rapid studder while at cruising speeds between 10inHg to
0psi. It doesn't happen very often, usually just after entering the normal
operating temperature. This studder happens only on the down/lean cycle on
my
Cyberdyne A/F guage. "Feels" like all 4 cyl's just don't get anything for
1rpm then come back till the next lean cycle where it happens again. Happens
from 1 to 5 occurrences not to return until the engine is shut down, cooled
off, and restarted.
I replaced the spark plugs, checked all vacuum hoses, and played with the MAF
(just in case). My MPG is down to 18 city and 21 highway where it used to be
20 city and 24 highway - could this be an o2 sensor thing?
Any replies would be appreciated.
J. Chris Roth
92 Laser RS AWD
-----------------------------Date: 07 Jan 1997 07:13:39 -0700
From: "Jeff Sammaritano" <Jeff.Sammaritano@lmco.com>
Subject: 1GT, 93GSX questions
Message-ID: <#18>
Hey Folks,
[RTP]
Well, the 95GSX is gone, my wife and I purchased a 1997 Ford Explorer,
very nice! To bad I'm not allowed to drive it!! Anyway, I have some
questions regarding my new 93GSX.
What kind of gains could I expect from a custom upper I/C pipe? I
noticed on my 93 the stock unit really doesn't look that restrictive
like my 95 was. I did noticed decent gains on the 95 with the 2.5"
pipe but will I get this same performance on the 93?
Also, does anybody have an 02 housing they want to part with? Ported
or stock, doesn't matter.
What kind of gas mileage should I expect from the 93? I know on my 95
I could go about 220-230miles on a tank.
Thanks,
Jeff
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 97 9:27:29 EST
Subject: Broken belt scare
Message-ID: <#19>
While driving home last night I sensed a burning smell coming from my car. I
glanced down at my gauges and noticed my oil pressure was at ZERO! I
immediately pulled over and shut down the engine. I checked the oil and it
was full. I had my Talon towed home by a flatbed wrecker.
After jacking the car up to assess the damage, I noticed that my alternator
and a/c compressor belts had torn to shreds and wedged themselves between
the
lower timing belt cover and the crankshaft pulley. As the frayed belts spun
around they apparently sliced the wires going to the oil pressure switch
which apparently killed the oil gauge signal. Hopefully that means I had oil
pressure, just not an oil pressure signal.
Fortunately for me, the crankshaft pulley is designed to break free to allow
the crankshaft sprocket (attached to the timing belt) to keep rotating
therefore saving my motor. All of the replacement parts should be ready
tommorow morning and hopefully I'll have it running tommorow night.
I only had 68,000 miles on my Talon. I had just recently replaced the timing
belt and balance shaft belt but did not replace the three accessory belts.
As Todd and others have warned in the past... change all the belts together
as one failed belt can take the other belts out.
While under the car I also noticed my transfer case has a leak that has
dribbled all over my down pipe. The dealer suposedly just fixed this leak
about 10,000 miles ago. Hopefully my xfer case is not bone dry like has
happened to other members.
Got lucky this time,
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:50:32 -0500
From: dan@rtp-nc.MENTORG.COM
Subject: Hi flow cat vs. test pipe [T, 1G]
Message-ID: <#20>
Fellow DSMer'sCoupla questions concerning "hi flow" cat's vs. test pipes.
I have in hand, Bushur's new 2.5 inch exhaust, ic pipe, and
Mark Hallman boost controller. I would like, at the same time
however, to install Bushur's down pipe. In order for this to
be effective, either a high flow cat or a test pipe is necessary.
So two basic questions come up.
Is a test pipe dramatically better than a good high flow cat?
And, as far as high flow cat's go, what is the best choice to
be mated with a 2.5 inch exhaust?
I called Random Technology and they said that thier high flow
cat flows 412 cfm with 2.5 inch necks at intake and outflow.
Said that the same cat flows around 500 cfm with a 3 inch neck.
Called Extreme. For a 2.5 inch, they are a lot cheaper
($160 vs $245), but could not provide flow characteristics.
After reading through the archives, it seems as though some
folks have bought the cat element (if so, from where?) and
had muffler shops build a shell and/or flanges custom to thier
needs. Is this a better option? Seems to be a lot cheaper.
Also, if the Random unit with a 3 inch neck flows so much better
than a 2.5 inch neck, how feasible (and beneficial) would it
be to mate the 3 inch version to a 2.5 inch exhaust, via custom
flanges?
RTP as appropriate.
Dan
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 09:59:26 -0600
From: tomj@math.uchicago.edu (Tom Jurczak)
Subject: Scraping Brake Rotor (2G, T, FWD)
Message-ID: <#21>
I have a brake problem that will be shown to Satan on Thursday so I need
help asap. There is a scraping noise coming from my left front brake that
has become almost constant. It sounds as if the rotor is scraping against
something. The sound disappears when the brakes are applied and reappears
as soon as I let off the brakes. The possibilities that I can think of are
as follows:
1. Wear indicator in brake lining
2. Plate in back of rotor may out of place.
3. Wheel bearings.
Please RTP.
Thanks,
Tom Jurczak
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 97 10:21 EST
From: deneau@symplex.com (Phil Deneau)
Subject: [1g t awd] Price for high mileage car?
Message-ID: <#22>
Hey there,
I have a 91 Talon AWD with 130K miles on it. I was thinking of selling it come
spring time. Has anyone out there purchased a used DSM with this many
miles?
What did you pay? Has anyone sold a DSM with this many miles, what did
you get for it? I know about www.edmunds.com; I wanted more real world
data.
Phil Deneau
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 10:21:52 -0600
Subject: [2G,T] Leaking 95 Gas Tank
Message-ID: <#23>
The gas tank on my 95 TSI started to leak a year before the recall. As far
as I can determine the problem is with the gasket sealing at the top of the
tank. Mine was fixed by just replacing the gasket. I understand that the
new tanks themself are changed so the gasket seals better. I have heard that
if your tank is not leaking the dealer will not make any changes.
To check if your tank is leaking remove your back seat and the two access
panels in the floor. Fill your tank to the top then drive it around a few
corners. If the top of you tank is still dry you probably don't have a
problem.
If any one has information contrary to the above please let me know.
Victor Del Col
65 TSI
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 12:36:21 -0600
From: "RICHARD HELM" <rixtoy@thor.net>
Subject: Can't get on IRC
Message-ID: <#24>
For the last week or so, I haven't been able to get on to IRC...
I try connecting to the server, and get this message:
Local host: (my isp address)
_
Connected to Boise.ID.TEST.(etc.) on port 6667(etc)
Sending Host/ No spoof Ping
_
Ping? Pong!
_
Then nothing...
I'm using Mirc 4.7 32bit, and am also having the same prob when using the
16 bit, also...
What gives? I'm not having any probs when hooking up to other IRC
servers.
[The next thing you have to do is join a channel. -talon mgr]
richard
90 Ecplise tag RIX TOY
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 14:55:49 -0500
Subject: I need a left front axle and spindle
Message-ID: <#25>
I am in need of a left front axle off of a 90 or 91 AWD car as
well as the spindle. Mine is quite rusty and is going to have to be
replaced by spring at the latest. I am looking for a spindle with a
bearing that is in good shape and an axle that has decent CV boots
(not torn) as well as good CV joints. The left side is the longer of
the two front axles. E-mail me back if you have the parts that I am
looking for.
thanx,
Damon Root
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 11:33:44 -0800
From: Nial Pye <nimel@ansa.com>
Subject: Fuel Tank Recall for 97's???
Message-ID: <#26>
I just picked up my 97 Tsi AWD last week. I was wondering if I need to
take it in to have the recall work done. I imagine not since this seems
to have been a known problem for sometime now. They have probably
corrected it at the factory.
I never really believed the guys who complained of all the different
rattling noises. The hatch rattled as I pulled off the lot and the
sunroof creaks when I go over speed bumps (as the car's body flexs). Oh
well, I was aware of these things before I bought it. Aside from that
it is a huge improvement over my ex (92 Tsi AWD).
Thanks in advance,
Nial
------------------------------
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id QAA27478
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 12:00:06 -0800
Sender: owner-talon
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) EricATCA
Re: 2G/For Sale
2) Robert Arrowood
Brake Pads
3) Tom Stangl
EGR Block Off & [1G] Cruising Studders
4) Tom Stangl
Hi flow cat vs. test pipe [T, 1G]
5) Grant Hawkins
RE: Can't get on IRC
6) sborders
Good news, bad news
7) Michael
Update
8) MARIO A. PENNYCOOKE 4k noise problems
9) EricATCA
Re: 2GT Intake Manifold
10) JAY RICHARD
Getting into the dash
11) Nathan Todd Pharr Various Galants
12) Ron T
Timing Belts/squealing
13) Greg Clayton
[1G T] Please explain this to me.
14) Bill Bradburry
[1g, AWD] Wheel lug bolts for ABS '91 Talon AWD
15) Joe Jankord
PMS Install Problems
16) Pete Turley
mechanic list, help list
17) The4Bangr
Misc. stuff
18) The4Bangr
SHOOTOUT NEWS
19)
20)
21)
22)
23)
24)
25)
26)
Robert Thompson
Regional Site Info
Roberto L. Landrau Galant GSR
Jake McClean
Re: Stealthbox for 95+ Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Ta
REITMAN, LEON
Snow Tires
Nat Sombat KC7DNX,HS auto-X 1G-T-FWD, header FAQ
darren.y.moy
Mixing DOT 3 Brake Fluid
John Dighton
1997 Gas Tank Recall
Jesse Hustad
1st Gen Tail Light mod
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
9am.
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 16:46:25 -0500
From: EricATCA@aol.com
Subject: Re: 2G/For Sale
Message-ID: <#1>
Guys!
I'm BACK! (For those who remember me.). My car was in with the dealer for
more than 4 WEEKS!!!. They finally found out they need to replace my entire
transmission. The problem was the full metalic clutch that I had gave too
much traction. It damaged the entire transmission, all cincro, front and rear
differential. Everything. I had to wait 4 weeks but now I have a brand new
trany under warranty. My suggestion: Do Not Use Full Metal Clutch.
Re: For Sale
I'm selling my front mount intercooler for $700. All piping included. The
front mount blocks quiet a bit of air into the radiator, your car temp will
get up a little bit higher when you're running on a 95+ day. Other than that
this is a great kit.
Re: Turbo
Tory, were you the one that wanted to trade turbos? I lost all my email.
Please let me know.
Eric
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 17:09:03 -0600
Subject: Brake Pads
Message-ID: <#2>
>Metal Masters - Good Track and street Pad.
>
>Drilled Rotors- Very little difference. Crack very easily.
Holes plug
>after a few races any way.
>
>Rear Pads- Tried Metal Master. No improvement over stock
organic pads.
>Slight squeal when cold
Victor:
I am currently driving w/ Metal Masters pads front/rear and the
Stillen Cross Drilled Rotors front/rear. They have been on the
car for about 5k or more miles. I have not "raced" on a track
with these so I may not be getting the heat you are. I like the
Metal Masters a lot. They grab hard. I do have two complaints:
Coming down hard and fast from above 100mph causes them to
growl after they get heated up say within 10-20 seconds. Also,
I don't feel they worth anything when it is raining. It feels
as if I don't have brakes until they dry off. As for the
rotors, the holes are fine. No cracks (yet).
Robert
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 15:35:39 -0800
Subject: EGR Block Off & [1G] Cruising Studders
Message-ID: <#3>
>
>
>
>
You can use a solid piece of gasket or just cut out a piece of thin sheet
metal in the shape of the gasket and drill the holes for the bolts. What I do
is I have a two valves in the hose just outside the EGR nipples. When I don't
want the EGR to be used I close the valves.
No need to close both, as far as I know - I ran vac tests on it, and
ONLY the top one opens it - while it is the vac differential between
them that opens it, if you close off the top one (green-striped), it
should not open. I am mounting a valve in my engine compartment tonight
as part of my rebuild.
Now, what I need NEXT is a nice valve for the throttle body coolant
lines - something that flows decently, is small, and can handle coolant
~ time to look through the Grainger catalog....
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 15:42:27 -0800
Subject: Hi flow cat vs. test pipe [T, 1G]
Message-ID: <#4>
> After reading through the archives, it seems as though some
> folks have bought the cat element (if so, from where?)
JC Whitney, 3" high flow for $120 (got mine on sale, 10% off)
> Also, if the Random unit with a 3 inch neck flows so much better
> than a 2.5 inch neck, how feasible (and beneficial) would it
> be to mate the 3 inch version to a 2.5 inch exhaust, via custom
> flanges?
Can't hurt, if you have the time - just "cone down" the inlet/outlet to
2.5". The system I am building uses a 2.5" downpipe, and I will cone
down the inlet of a 3" cat to 2.5" for a direct fit. The rear will stay
3" for a custom 3" catback. Once the catback is done and I verify I
like it, I will have it ceramic coated inside and out for long life.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 17:53:49 -0600
From: Grant Hawkins <EclipseFWD@gnn.com>
Subject: RE: Can't get on IRC
Message-ID: <#5>
>>Local host: (my isp address) _ Connected to Boise.ID.TEST.(etc.) on port
>>6667(etc) Sending Host/ No spoof Ping _ Ping? Pong! _
>>Then nothing...
I get this also when I'm at work......I just used a different IRC
program called wsirc 2.0 you can get it in 32-bit or 16 bit.
Grant " EclipseX"
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 18:05:24 +0000
From: sborders@nfinity.nfinity.com
Subject: Good news, bad news
Message-ID: <#6>
Good news:
At the suggestion of several list members, I swapped out the plugs in
my '96 Talon for one-range colder (BPR6ES->BPR7ES) over lunch today,
and my hesitation at WOT went away. Overall performance improved; a
quick G-Tech run showed 0-60 at 6.22 seconds, a full second faster
than my previous best. Thanks to everyone who replied.
Bad news:
On may way back to work from lunch, a Ford Aerostar ran a red left
turn arrow in front of me, and I t-boned him when I left from the
green. To make it even more fun, the other driver is uninsured.
No one was hurt seriously. He took a knock to the head from his door
window, I think, and he had a small cut on one finger. I'm fine
execpt for a really minor burn on my forearm from the airbag. I
can't even feel it now; it's barely even pink. So, all the humans
involved came out relatively intact. My blue baby is another matter
:o(
My car is badly damaged; the front end is completely crumpled, and
the transmission was stuck in 1st. I may take a $$$ hit on my mods:
the front strut tower brace is bent, the K&N looked a bit squished
(may be fixable), but I have no idea if the BOV survived. However,
nothing from the front of the doors to the rear of the car, or within
the cockpit seemed to be harmed. The minivan took a pretty good
hit . . . I was in the mood for Gs, and I did lauch pretty hard. I
couldn't have been going too fast when I hit him, though, because
the impact point was maybe only 60 or 70 feet from where I launched.
I wasn't to the top of first gear yet, so that's maybe 15, 20 mph?
He claims he entered the intersection on a yellow, but I checked
the intersection when I got the green (that light is notorious for
cars, and often semis, running the left turn arrow), and I didn't
see any cars that had started a turn. I can only assume that he was
traveling fast enough, and entered the intersection late enough, that
he began his turn *after* I checked. I looked at the tach as I
launched, and when I looked up, all I saw was minivan. BTW, airbags are
loud.
Lesson learned:
Save spirited driving for something a bit more deserted than
a major intersection at lunch hour. Technically, the minivan ran
a red light, but that doesn't mean I shouldn't have seen it. If
I had been driving more defensively, I probably could have avoided
the other car.
Unfortunately, no witnesses stuck around, so no one can verify that he
ran the red and that I started from a stop with a green light. The cop
issued the other guy a ticket for being uninsured, but said he couldn't
write him up for running the red without a witness who saw the accident.
According to my insurance agent, that means that it will be an
at-fault accident on my record for three years. I'll be out the $500
deductible, whatever mods I lost, plus a 25% surcharge next year, 20%
the second year, and 15% the third year (about a total of $300 over
the three year period). And, worst of all, I'll be without my car
for about three weeks, maybe more. I don't have rental car coverage
(something I intend to add to my policy), but my parents have agreed
to lend me one of their cars for the duration. Thanks, Mom & Dad!
Since the mechanic is going to be doing some major work under the
hood, anyway, maybe I can get some discount rates on installs for
some mods I've been meaning to do. For example, if he has to tear
the tranny apart, maybe I can get that upgraded clutch installed for
a little less money. I'll post in a couple of days when I know
exactly what will need to be done to put it back to stock. Part of
me hopes that itsy-bitsy-cutesy T25 got destroyed. I didn't really
want to part with the money for a bigger turbo right now, but if the
insurance company will pay to replace the stocker, I can probably
apply that money to the cost of an upgrade (IhopeIhopeIhope). I
don't know whether I should even mention it to the adjuster, or just
work it out with the mechanic and the body shop. Just to be clear,
I'm not trying to get any more money out of the insurance company
than they would pay to put the car back in stock condition . . . I
just want them to be OK with me taking the opportunity to save myself
a few bucks. Has anyone out there tried something like this? Were
you successful?
OK, I'll shut up now. Sorry this was so long-winded, but I needed a
sympathetic ear. With this list, I've got 1800 of 'em. Thanks,
Todd.
Scott Borders
sborders@nfinity.com
'96 Talon TSi AWD, badly wounded
sympathy e-mail appreciated :o) [RTP only, of course]
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Tue, 07 Jan 1997 19:03:21 -0500
Michael <grim@genesis.ispace.com>
Subject: Update
Message-ID: <#7>
Hey All,
Here's an update on my car with the stalling problem. Well this weekend
I spent three days working on it. Replaced my thermostat (the thing was
broken in two), my valve cover gasket, did the shifter mod, replaced
door speakers, and took out my ECU.
I ran into a snag working on the valve cover gasket. The damn thing was
like glue attached to my head. When I tried to knock it free with a
hammer it still didn't want to budge. A little more pressure and I
ended up cracking the area where the plug wires come across. Got
another at the junk yard. When I got it home and cleaned up, it was
cracked. Went to another junk yard and that one was cracked too. I
ended up using this weld putty by Loctite on the area, and it seems to
have worked. Is there any problem I may run into having fixed it like
this? Eventually when I find a good cover, I will probably replace it.
On to the ECU: I opened it up to see if there were any obvious cracks on
the board or burnt areas that may be the reason for my stalling. It all
looked okay considering I'm not sure what I would be looking for. I
smelled the board and it had the same electronic/plastic burning odor
that I get when my car stalls. The board seems to have some plastic
coating over it, my guess is that it protects the electronics from
moisture. There are a few little boards that attach to the mother
board. One of these small boards has a disk on it, maybe a 1/4 inch in
diameter. The coating on here was sticky instead of firm like the rest
of the components. My guess is that this gismo may be the part heating
up and shorting and is melting the plastic coating. Any suggestions?
At this point in time, I am beginning to think that eventually I may
need to think of a new ECU. Any pointers of what I will need to look
for in the junk yards when money is available? I wrote down the numbers
on the side of the ECU, in case they mean anything, some of them are the
part number. My friend had his engine in his Ford Probe blow once and
replaced the engine with the same year, but since then he gets false
warnings, etc. It's believed that his ECU isn't integrating to this
engine. Is this something that may happen to me, even with a 91 ECU to
match my car?
[You should have no problem as long as you get the same smog control
as what you have in your car. Check the shop manual for the ECU
partnumbers so you know what to look for. -talon mgr]
Guess that's it for this time.
Mike
91 Laser (RS-Turbo)
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 19:23:55 EST
From: "MARIO A. PENNYCOOKE" <mario@dale.cba.ufl.edu>
Subject: 4k noise problems
Message-ID: <#8>
Hey guys,
Well my "new" Talon problems continue. To recap I was having a loud
noise over 4k rpm. I took off my exhaust mainfold and saw a small
crack with white stuff around it. I bought a 1995 manifold (Sorry
Dave, couldn't wait), and put it on but alas the noise does persist.
I was wondering if it was the balance shaft since the more I listen
the more it sounds like it's coming from the lower engine
extremities. Oh well I'll have to get on my back and look and listen
some more or else I have to lend the keys and my checkbook to my local
SATAN affiliate.
BTW anyone know what size the bajo bolt for the coolant line on the
turbo is. It's gotta be atleast 21mm.
Oh and I gotta say, while I was in Tampa picking up my car. I heard a
lound exhaust passing me on Dale Mabry. It was NormAsp Eclipse..WITH
DUAL EXHUAST PIPES. I thought it quite original, but a bit domestic
car like.
Thanks to everyone whose given me input. I'll keep you updated on my
future moose-killer.
Mario
91 Talon NormAsp
90 Talon Tsi
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 19:37:55 -0500 (EST)
From: EricATCA@aol.com
Subject: Re: 2GT Intake Manifold
Message-ID: <#9>
Guys,
I'm working with Portmasters on some Custome Intake Manifold for the 2G
eclipse. He is porting one of the 1G head and found the following:
Stock flow (0 psi) around 230 cfm, after porting 274cfm.
Now the head with the stock intake manifold 244cfm. That is -30cfm by the
intake manifold. Now Charlie at Portmasters wants to make an Intake Manifold
that will force the air into the head creating around 300cfm with the intake
manifold.
The cost to make one is very close to making two, three....etc. If I can get
four manifolds together I can get the price down to $700/pc.
Let me know if anyone is interested, The Manifold is going to be made
according to the 2G sensors and locations.
Eric
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 19:44:38 -0600
From: JAY RICHARD <jayrichard@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Getting into the dash
Message-ID: <#10>
I have a 2G NT talon. I am interested in changing the CD player which is
an after market player installed by a stereo store. Where can I find
information on getting into the dash?
[The shop manual. Check the website vendor list for ordering
information. -talon mgr]
Jay
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 21:28:39 -0500 (EST)
From: Nathan Todd Pharr <ntphar@planetx.bloomu.edu>
Subject: Various Galants
Message-ID: <#11>
Hey guys,
A number of posts recently have dealt with the various trim levels of
Galants, and what the designations mean. Here's the rundown:
Galant GSX: Four wheel drive (duh) with 2 liter non turbo motor. Looks
identical to 91 Galant VR4 except for front airdam. Same color combos
offered as on VR4, in addition to a few more.
Galant GSR: One of the most complex Galants, this one had the
electronically adjustable suspension that could either raise or lower the
car about 1.5". Looked identical to the VR4 also, but had polished
silver wheels, not the body colored ones. I'm not sure if this one was
offered in the 1992 model year. This also had the non-turbo motor.
Just wanted to clear this stuff up...
Nate Pharr
GVR4s #1047, #282
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 20:56:58 -0600 (CST)
From: Ron T <laser@texas.net>
Subject: Timing Belts/squealing
Message-ID: <#12>
>
>
>
>
I only had 68,000 miles on my Talon. I had just recently replaced the timing
belt and balance shaft belt but did not replace the three accessory belts.
As Todd and others have warned in the past... change all the belts together
as one failed belt can take the other belts out.
My car recently started making an ugly noise coming from the
timing belt area. It sounded like the idler pulley was making the
racket. Not liking timing belt-related noises, I took my car in to
have the timing belt changed and the noise investigated. Sure
enough, the bearing on the idler pulley had disintegrated; happily,
the fragments didn't get caught up in the timing belt. I had the
pulley replaced (obviously) along with the tensioner, the tensioner
pulley, the water pump, and all drive belts. At 75k I figured I'm better
off taking preventative measures than having $1500 worth of engine
damage from a timing-belt related failure. Just a thought as our cars
get up in mileage. If your already having the belt changed, the labor
to replace these parts is insignificant, and the parts aren't all that
expensive.
Ron
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 03:44:12 -0600
Subject: [1G T] Please explain this to me.
Message-ID: <#13>
Hello all.
Well we just got through putting a clutch in my friends car and also taking
off the turbo and doing some port work on it. When we got the car back
together
it was over-heating, it seemed the fan wouldnt kick on. So we switched out
his whole fan with mine, didnt work. So we pulled his fan relay, looked at it
put it back in. Still the fans didnt work. So then we pulled the fog light
relay and looked at it, same part number, so we switched the fog light
relay with the fan relay. The fans work now! (???) AND on top of that
the fog lights still work! (We pulled the fog light relay and they dont
work without the relay). What the heck could of happened? I'm glad it works
but WHY did that fix it if the relay is apparently still good since it works
on the fog lights? Also why did this relay decide to go bad cause we took
the fan out (to pull the turbo?) and uh why does it work on the fog lights
but not on the fan?
Secondly, Since we got his car back together, we put in a boost gauge
at the same time. His gauge only reads 9 psi until 5K rpm or so then it
boost creeps up to 15 psi (full 2.5" exh). Shouldnt this thing boost 11 psi
stock?
We had also put larger vacuum line on it previously and pulled out the
restrictor
in the solenoid, so it should of been around 14 psi? Will the port work
cause it to run less boost with no bleeder valve etc on it? His bleeder
valve is on the way. Just curious if maybe his boost gauge is reading
wrong. I know my 16G ported/clipped only runs 8 psi or so with no boost
controller on it, but I also have the solenoid outta there.
Thanks,
Greg
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 00:14:43 -0800
From: Bill Bradburry <a0150919@dsbs15.itg.ti.com>
Subject: [1g, AWD] Wheel lug bolts for ABS '91 Talon AWD
Message-ID: <#14>
I have had a rash of bolts freezing when trying to remove them. The result
was that they were broken off. I now have the right front and left rear
wheels with only 3 bolts each. This was done be Discount Tire. They have
bought the bolts that they broke but have refused to pay for the labor to
replace the bolts. Satan wants $90 per wheel to repair...
This is a '91 Talon, AWD with ABS. Does anyone know what is involved with
the replacement when the ABS is involved? Is this a job that I can attempt
myself? Has anyone tried this? I would like some advice..
Maybe someone can step me thru it....
Tks,
B2
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 00:16:39 -0500
Subject: PMS Install Problems
Message-ID: <#15>
I was installing my PMS and now have some questions.
1. Do I reconnect my boost solenoid (I was using David's MBC) and all
of the hoses associated with it? Where does the hose go that is included
with the unit? What do I do with the hose from the boost solenoid that
connected to the nipple off of the air filter box (I now have the
upgraded MAF)?
2. Why do you have to put the four washers in between the wastegate and
turbo? My bolts were not long enough and I was only able to get two of
the four (one on each bolt) to fit. What does this do?
3. Where did you tap the hose from the MAP sensor? I used the hose that
I had already cut and used with David's MBC. I believe that it is the
pressure hose to the BOV.
If you have installed your PMS and have any suggestions please e-mail me
ASAP. Right now I am stuck driving another car. I only have this car
until tomorrow and will have to pull everything out and reinstall my
stock MAS and MBC in place of the PMS unit and MAF.
Thanks for your help,
Joe Jankord
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 7 Jan 1997 23:37:03 -0600
From: Pete Turley <ir004861@mindspring.com>
Subject: mechanic list, help list
Message-ID: <#16>
Hey all.
I"m going to start a webpage for dsm mechanics. Not the dealers, but guys
who want to make some extra $ with stuff they can do, that to be honest, a
lot of us can't. (raise your hand if you don't think you could change a
clutch. I can't either, but I'll be damned if satan gets a thin cent of my
$, especially with the tranny problems we all have.ditto for the timing
belt, or lots of stuff. However, I'm hell on wheels with oil change and
transfer cases.)
Anyways, if you're one of the above folks, who shadetree occassionally,
E-mail me the following info:
name
location
E-mail
and, if you want, your Ph#.
also, any special info you want in there, but be reasonable. say two
paragraphs at most.
I'll put it up on a nifty website. maybe I'll do an animation of a 3-d
wrench spinning around or something.
~------------club dsm help page
I really got a great response, but tom stangl (bad-dsm on irc) thought some
jerky websurfers might give grief to anyone who put their ph.#'s on.
Unfortunately, I agree with him. (not to say it's bad to agree with tom, I
just hoped that the 'netsurfing public' wouldn't screw with folks that
freely gave their personal phone numbers out. Mine's unlisted, but I'll put
it on the net if it can help a fellow dsm'r.)
I e-mailed todd, and he is currently working the help stuff as part of club
dsm registration, which I think would make MORE people participate, and
keep ALL of us listed there a little more secure.
Pete
oh, I sent two letters to club dsm - the transfer case thing I wrote in on
about 5 minutes after reading the digest, but it looks like I may be having
some e-mail problems. (not like you aol folks are immune from problems,
tho!) : )
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 00:57:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Misc. stuff
Message-ID: <#17>
To all of you that saw Eric P.'s post about the custom oil caps for the cars,
I would just like to verify he does very nice work. My basement is done in
old car signs and misc. pictures of Diamond Stars etc. I have a bar that was
custom built by my Grandfather. The top is Mahogany and is curved on the
edge the same way the front of the 1st gen. DS's are curved. Directly under
the top of the bar is the front fascia off my 91 Talon. Looks really cool I
need to finish it. it was suppose to get a fake front mount intercooler and
operating fog lights. Just never got around to it. Well, Eric did a large
mirror for me with a picture of my car sandblasted into it and Buschur Racing
written on it with the Eagle, Plymouth and Mitsu. symbols at the bottom. I
liked it so much I hung it over the center of the bar. Very nice. Thanks
again Eric. I also have one of the oil caps with Buschur Racing on it.
Pretty darn cool.
Gary Selph,
Better have the dealer check the back of the yoke for that leak. I am sure
they replaced the seal and didn't seal the back of the yoke. I posted this
last week.
Tory,
You wanted to know the flow rates of the new style pump. I had them at one
time becuase I tried to get a pump made with more flow in the exact same
frame size, it wasn't possible. The old models (90-94) were 48 gph at
freeflow, the new ones were guite a bit less, I do remember that. You could
get with Fred, he can show you how to test it in a bucket;)
Later,
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 00:59:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: SHOOTOUT NEWS
Message-ID: <#18>
Hello fellow shootouters,
Here is a little more news for all of you news hungry people.
The shootout is scheduled for May 16th. It looks like we have a good shot a
getting a rain date for the 18th, which will be a Sunday. In case of a rain
out the race will have to be held at Thompson Raceway, this track is about 1
hour and 45 minutes east of here. It would be great for the guys traveling
east on their way home. For all the others it would suck.
The race is going to start at 10 am on Friday, the gates will open at 9 am.
Gas is going to be served from 9 until 10am, that is it. The awards banquet
will be at 5 pm at Sterks' with all you can eat pizza again.
There will be an addition of three classes this year. One for just 2nd
generations, this class will be for ALL 2nd gens, regardless of mods. I am
also opening the event to 3000GT and Stealths this year, one class for all of
them. Anyone that can't compete heads-up can run Bracket. The other is
Unlimited. This is for guys that just want to run for records and a few odd
ball cars. The RWD will be in this class if it is done. No one slower than
11.50 allowed in this class.
Here are some of the other general rules for this year. Be prepared, no
exceptions and no whiners.
NO OPEN EXHAUST
TWO front seats and rear seats unless it interfers with a roll bar. The two
fronts can be aftermarket.
No passengers during the actual racing
This is about it for major changes.
As soon as the apps are done I will send them out.
David
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 01:00:38 -0500
From: "Robert Thompson" <techx@gold.interlog.com>
Subject: Regional Site Info
Message-ID: <#19>
Great news for rally drivers on both sides of the border!
I received a email today from a buddy in Michigan about the
97 SnoDrift Pro Rally. This sounds like a fantastic event for drivers
and spectators alike. Plus they need volunteers!
Come to the site to read the full email and if you have something
to offer, fill out an application to work the event.
http://www.interlog.com/~techx/odsmsnodrift.html
Next, could all members of the Ontario DSM site please check your
member information. Changes to the site have been made and I might
have the wrong information up.
Also we are now listing DSM members from all over Canada at the
Ontario site. Coast to Coast eh? ! If your not on the site, please
drop by and leave some info.
Thanks for your time, and the bandwidth Todd. Cheers!
Bob
Ontario Canada DSM Site Manager
http://www.on.dsm.org
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 07:50:43 -0500
From: "Roberto L. Landrau" <rll@linus.mitre.org>
Subject: Galant GSR
Message-ID: <#20>
>Thought it might be a [Galant] VR4, but the label said GSR (yes R)...
>...Is the GSR just someone adding an R sticker to a GS?
Was the 'R' taped to the car with duct tape?
Was there a VTEC logo next to it?
Maybe it's an Acura wannabe trying to increase trade-in value.
More seriously, I was able to find references to a GSR produced
in 1991 and 1992. I have no details about it, other than it
was priced as a middle of the line trim level.
Roberto L. Landrau (landrau@mitre.org)
-----------------------------Date:
Wed, 8 Jan 1997 07:33:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Stealthbox for 95+ Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon (fwd)
Message-ID: <#21>
Everyone,
This is directed towards anyone who is considering upgrading the audio
in their 95+ DSM. I currently have a completely aftermarket system in my
Eclipse with a really nice subwoofer box, but the box takes up a fair
amount of space, and makes use of a rear strut bar impossible. In hopes
of a solution, I wrote JL-Audio, and their response is quoted below.
For those of you who don't know, stealthboxes are PERFECTLY matched
subwoofer enclosures designed to make the most of available space in a
specific car, while remaining as 'stealth' as possible. I've heard
several systems that made use of stealthboxes, and was more than
impressed... this says something, as I've been a car audio enthusiast for
some time now. No "bazooka" tube will ever match the performance of a
high-quality sub in a well designed enclosure. Check out the JL web page.
Jake
95 Eclipse GST
"1GSAT2NV"
From: Keith Ryan <sturrisi@jlaudio.com>
Subject: Re: Stealthbox for 95+ Mitsubishi Eclipse/Eagle Talon
We are releasing a new Stealthbox for the new generation Eclipse/Talon at
CES this year, which is next week. Final information, such as MSRP,
pictures etc will be on our web page shortly there after. It will contain
a single 10W4 in a molded fibreglass enclosure, in the rear quarter panel.
Keith M Ryan
Technical Support Specialist
JL Audio
For the lastest information, and news, check out our web site!
http://www.jlaudio.com/
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 97 10:55:00 PST
From: "REITMAN, LEON" <LREITMAN@lex.pria.com>
Subject: Snow Tires
Message-ID: <#22>
Forget about Blizakks and Nokias!!! I followed advise of
Charles D. from 12/6 digest and got Wintermaster Plus tires from
Pep Boys. They have very aggressive thread and are a little
loud on the highway. But they are GREAT in the snow (as I tested
on my lunch brake the other day, went out just to do that :). The
best thing is, they are only $59 installed (balancing extra) for
205/55/16. That is $236 for a set four vs. around $450 for
Blizzakks. Now that is a deal.
BTW They are also studdable if you wish for around $8 per
tire. But since I am planning on doing some ice racing on a
lake in NH this winter, I do not want to be in a class with studs.
They have competitors with 1" long studs in that class. I do
not think that tiny street stud would measure up.
Thank again Charles.
Leon
Boston MA
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 09:48:27 -0800 (PST)
From: "Nat Sombat KC7DNX,HS1EGM" <nsombat@scs.unr.edu>
Subject: auto-X 1G-T-FWD, header FAQ
Message-ID: <#23>
Tom: here is the setup for Auto-x in my car.
16*7 w/ 225/50/16 BFG R1, F 30-40 psi, R 25 psi (new auto-x DOT
approved Hoosier is better I heard).
F/R swaybar, strut tower brace
1/2 tank of gas (if less I get a fuel cut in a sharp turn).
Archer camber (slot the F shock) all the way out.
1/2 turn out each side for toe out.
I start w/ fun end up more serious. I quit auto-x and go back to my
gokart for now.
another Tom Stangl:
I'm putting in new Archer Header + ported O2 and turbine housing.
I do port them myself not an easy job. My Friend (93 GSX) will put in
old Archer Header + 7cm housing + ext waste gate + 16G. Now we do my car
first. I'll take picture and write up some article. But I don't know
much about web page so I can e-mail it to U. At least I can give some
back to the Club DSM.
FS 4 wheels DP Motorsports Enduro 3 pieces silver clearcoat w/ polish edge
16 * 7 w/ BFG ZR 225/50/16 $1500 BO + about $100 shipping. new $500+
each. I quit auto-x.
check it out @ http://members.aol.com/zpeedfreak/DP_page.html
or DP page @ http://dpwheels.com
Nat....22 @ Zpeed Freak
90 Talon FWD, 93 Civic Si HB, 90 Emmick Gokart :D
-----------------------------Date: 8 Jan 97 11:12:22
From: "darren.y.moy" <darren.y.moy@ac.com>
Subject: Mixing DOT 3 Brake Fluid
Message-ID: <#24>
Good Day All:
Since Christmas was so expensive, I'm thinking about topping off the brake
fluid in my car instead of a full flush of the system. The dealer quoted $ 70
for a full flush and they only stock DOT 3. They could use DOT 4, but I'd have
to bring it myself (no big deal, of course, I don't know the volume/capacity of
the brake system).
The Question: Is it OK to mix different brands of DOT 3 brake fluid together?
I would never mix DOT 3 & 4, just like I would never mix a synthetic and a
conventional motor oil. This is definitely for street driving only. I don't
need racing fluid.
DM, '95 GSX
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 13:06:09 -0500
From: John Dighton <JDighton@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 1997 Gas Tank Recall
Message-ID: <#25>
All tanks are to be replace wether they show signs of leakage or not. A
recall notice was sent to all owners of '95 Talons. It takes about a day
to have this done. They have to remove rear seat, drive shaft, exhaust
pipes to be able to replace the tank. They are doing a replacement of
the tank itself and will return it with a full tank of gas. (Go in empty
if possible).
John.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 11:14:10 -0700 (MST)
From: Jesse Hustad <hustadj@pr.erau.edu>
Subject: 1st Gen Tail Light mod
Message-ID: <#26>
Last week I went to the local junkyard in search of some trim pieces.
Then I remembered a friend of mine showing me how he used the dual
filament bulbs and sockets from his brake lights in the turn signal part
of the lens to have the whole lens light up like the 92 and newer GSXs.
So I bought the dual illumination sockets and bulbs out of a wrecked
Laser. It only took me about a half hour to wire up the new sockets in
place of the old single illumination ones. I ran a wire from the harness
for the stock parking lamps that are in the same lens over to my new
sockets. I used black electrical tape to put the wire in with the stock
harness so everything looks nice and neat. The car looks great with the
lights the way they are. I think this "mod" cost me a grand total of 8
dollars. It would have been less but this junkyard had a 6 dollar yard
fee.
I looked to see if any of the cars there had the four bolt rear
ends or dual piston calipers but none did (sorry Todd!). There was a
wrecked '95 GS-T though that was totally loaded. It had been mostly
stripped of the good stuff though.
Jess
1990 GSX
------------------------------
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id SAA11343
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 12:00:06 -0800
Sender: owner-talon
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) Dennison Lee
[1g,t] O2 sensor
2) Jeff Sammaritano
Failing clutch?
4) MMEYER
Galant VR4 wanted
5) Daniel C. Lee
'95 [2G,T] Dirt cheap!
6) Nial Pye
re: 1997 Gas Tank Recall
8) Damian_Sigman
Re: Pete's Shifter Mod suggestions
9) Bill Bradburry
[1g, AWD] Wheel lug bolts for ABS '91 Talon AWD
10) Bobby Bernauer
BB: Hot Rod Looking
11) BRETT_NASHLUND
DSM's RULE The AUtOX!
12) Jesse Hustad
Seriously bad day!
13) Nat Sombat KC7DNX,HS Light Mod
14) Shifter
DSM mechanic in UT.
15) MHGSX
2 G,T
16) gary glick
(1g,2g) Wiper blades
17) Btalont
Cat sizes....
18) Archeracin
parts
19) Vel Natarajan
Re: Various Galants
20) james oxley
PMS install
21) anthony p. nguyen overheating...
22) BOB BLACK
Fuel Cut?, Clock Spring (2G,T)
23) REITMAN, LEON
RE: SHOOTOUT RULES
24) robrien
GalantVR4's
25) Dean
[All] Stealth Mail List
26) Sloclone
1G race story.
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
9am.
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 12:15:01 -0800
From: Dennison Lee <den@skyinternet.ca>
Subject: [1g,t] O2 sensor
Message-ID: <#1>
I have a '91 talon. Is the 1990 O2 sensor the same as the 1991? The local
UAP/Napa dealer lists only a '90 sensor for $56 CDN. I would rather pay
that if I could rather than $200 CDN at the dealer.
[Make sure that the number of wires matches (4). -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: 08 Jan 1997 15:13:01 -0700
Subject: Failing clutch?
Message-ID: <#2>
Hey Folks,
Of all the car's I've owned in the past, I never had a clutch fail on
me. I really don't know what the characteristics are of a ailing
clutch, nor do I know what it feels like so please excuse my ignorance
with this question.
My new 93GSX seems to be slipping a bit, however I'm confused with the
symptoms. It only occurs or seems to occur when the car is cold. It
occurs mostly in 3rd gear around 3700rmp's and when boost starts to
climb. The car will suddenly rev up a couple hundred rpms like I
through it in neutral for a second or two, then it catches. If I romp
on the petal again, the same thing happens. If I drive the car for
awhile the problem seems to go away.
So I ask you this, will a failing clutch slip only when it's cold?
I would think if a clutch was beginning to break down it would happen
all the time regardless of how cold or hot it was.
Any input would be mostly appreciated, I tried looking in the archives
but found little information.
[Oil leak onto the clutch face or flywheel. There is some seal
around the shaft that might be leaking. The oil burns off after awhile.
-talon mgr]
Thanks,
Jeff
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 20:30:11 EST
From: MMEYER@tir.com
Subject: Galant VR4 wanted
Message-ID: <#4>
Hello All,
I have recently subscribed to the list, and I am looking to buy a pristine VR4. I
am
located in the northern Detroit suburbs, but I would travel some distance to
find a
good one. Could anyone tell me what a nice example should go for? I have
recently seen
a 91 White VR4 with 32,000 miles drives nicely, but this is the only one I know
of for
sale. The owner wants $12900 for it, is he in the ball park? Any help would be
appreciated.
What wheels (16" or 17") will fit the vr4? any guidance appreciated.
Thanks Again,
Mark Meyer
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 08 Jan 1997 20:57:18 +0000
Subject: '95 [2G,T] Dirt cheap!
Message-ID: <#5>
1995 Talon TSi AWD for sale at blue book value! Need cash now!! No mods,
completely stock, meticulously maintained. Fuel tank recall completed, cold
start whine repaired under warranty w/ $200+ worth of parts. 29k miles, 5
speed, loaded with all available options except for sunroof and leather. Has
limited slip option and ABS. Red with black top. All records.
Summer 1994 build date; desirable ECU! Also has 4 wheel vented discs.
[The ECU has been shown to be the same for all manual transmission cars.
-talon mgr]
$13,995 current blue book wholesale value! Call (617) 743-7344 days or (617)
961-5982 evenings/weekends. Boston MA area.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 06:01:10 -0800
From: Nial Pye <nimel@ansa.com>
Subject: re: 1997 Gas Tank Recall
Message-ID: <#6>
Hi John,
I'm not doubting you but I just heard from someone else that he had to
wait a few months before he got his 1997 because they stopped production
for a short while to fix this problem. You mentioned that recall notices
were sent out to owners of 1995 Talons but what does that mean to us
1997 owners?
In your opinion, should I call my dealer and setup and appointment for
my 1997 TSi or do you think that they fixed the problem at assembly
time?
Thanks in advance,
Nial
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 07:55:41 -0500
From: Damian_Sigman@NEWS.CENTRALSOYA.COM
Subject: Re: Pete's Shifter Mod suggestions
Message-ID: <#8>
THANK YOU Pete for the suggestion of adjusting the Select and Shift cables
in each gear!!!! I know that a couple of others have suggested cable
adjustment already, but your level of detail finally got me to work on
mine. It WORKS!! My car has always seemed to "Crunch" going into 2nd, and
it seemed like I needed to hold the shifter against the left edge of its
travel to assure a good shift. Now that I've adjusted both cables I only
have to pull back! I didn't even really think I needed to adjust my cables
since they were only off by a little bit, but I guess even a little bit of
misadjustment still means something. I spent probably 30 minutes getting
my adjustments "Just Right", but it was time well-spent.
Here's a test to determine whether your cables need adjusted... While
parked with the shifter in 1st, can you just pull the shift lever back
EVERYTIME without worrying about missing 2nd even once, regardless of
"how"
you shift (where you hold your hand, whether you apply pressure to the left
or right)? If so, proceed to the 2nd-3rd and 3rd-4th shifts trying the
same test. With things adjusted properly, even the 2nd-3rd shift is very
easy - just push forward, (not up and over) the neutral spring takes care
of moving the lever to the right!
>Could I be on to something here?<
I'd say you are! On my car, I didn't have to "open the channel" as you
suggested. With the cables adjusted correctly, the rubber bumper "almost"
touches in each gear, but doesn't actually Hit in any gear.
>~ Step 3) I believe there might be something that keeps the
shifter base from resting flat on the tunnel so that the base will
touch the tunnel at the four bolt holes with the grommets not
present.<
I tore into my 91 and I couldn't perceive any "wobble" to its base (with
the bolts loose) - Not to say yours doesn't though...
My car still doesn't shift perfectly, but I FINALLY feel like all of my
shifting problems are in the tranny synchros, NOT in the shifter! All mods
combined, it is FAAARRRR better than it has ever been since I purchased it
18 months ago!!!
Dean and I appreciate the many compliments about his webpage from those
that have tried the "original" shifter mod. It's great to see others are
finding even more shifter ideas while they're at it!
Damian Sigman
91 Talon AWD
90 Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 23:09:13 -0800
From: Bill Bradburry <a0150919@dsbs15.itg.ti.com>
Subject: [1g, AWD] Wheel lug bolts for ABS '91 Talon AWD
Message-ID: <#9>
I have had a rash of bolts freezing when trying to remove them. The result
was that they were broken off. I now have the right front and left rear
wheels with only 3 bolts each. This was done be Discount Tire. They have
bought the bolts that they broke but have refused to pay for the labor to
replace the bolts. Satan wants $90 per wheel to repair...
This is a '91 Talon, AWD with ABS. Does anyone know what is involved with
the replacement when the ABS is involved? Is this a job that I can attempt
myself? Has anyone tried this? I would like some advice..
Maybe someone can step me thru it....
Tks,
B2
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 22:20:05 -0600
Subject: BB: Hot Rod Looking
Message-ID: <#10>
Hey everyone
I was looking in Books A Million today and saw tons of car books (I picked
one up for my car, a book entitled 'Chilton Mitsubishi Elcipse 1990-1993',
I have a 95, but thats the closest they had). But who cares about that.
:] What I am posting is that I saw some books for Hot Rodding and I saw
the way that some of the engines look with different colored parts (like
red and blue tubes), and I am wondering if any of these parts are
availiable for a DSM car (Specifically a 95 Elcipse)? If so, please reply
via email!
Thank you in advance!
Bobby
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 08:38:40 -0700
Subject: DSM's RULE The AUtOX!
Message-ID: <#11>
Well, in the San Francisco SCCA Region, you will notice that 5 of the top
ten cars are DSM for the rookie season!
There is one VW in 3rd, but he is being protested as we speak for running
springs/sway bars in stock class. His points do not count. :P
Oh yeah... As much as I HATE to admit it, congrats to Jimz who after
points/pax adjustments took FIRST PLACE in the Winter Slush Series in his
Billion-Dollar E/SP car (I took 4th with his ol' set of Yoko tires).
You can check the points standings at www.sfr-solo2.org
Heh, we really made a statement this year. Thanks to all of the Bay Area
DSM's!!!!!
Brett
95REDTSi
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 22:03:28 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Seriously bad day!
Message-ID: <#12>
Today was probably the worst day ever. First of all I almost was t-boned
by some speed racer in a Sentra in the Costco parking lot. The guy had to
be going 40mph in the lot!
Now for the really bad news. My rear differential on my 1990 GSX had been
making some strange noises recently so I decided to dump the fluid and
put in some new stuff to see if that would fix the problem. The diff had
plenty of fluid in it so it wasn't low at all. When I pulled the drain
plug there was more sludge etc. than usual. So I stuck my finger into
the drain hole to see if I could feel anything strange. Well, there was a
lot of broken metal pieces that I could feel in there. So I am assuming
that I now need a new rear diff. How much will a 3-bolt LSD in good shape
cost me?
My next question is how did this happen? My car has only been down the
1/4 four times and it is only very mildly modified. The noise began after
I replaced the side gear oil seal that was leaking. While the rear end
was jacked up and the axle was out the other wheel was rotated. Could
this have screwed up some alignment or something? The fluid was Mobil 1
Synthetic GL-5.
Exactly how difficult is it to remove and replace the rear diff? I am
pretty good with tools so that isn't a problem.
Thanks,
Jess
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 8 Jan 1997 23:31:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Light Mod
Message-ID: <#13>
Jess: I did that 3 years ago. Did U do the front? The turn signal in the
front is already 2 filament. They did not hook up. Just tap the parking
light from the side and push the wire in. I think it's the same as my 90
TSI.
90 Talon FWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 02:27:45 -0700
From: Shifter@Hearthstone.xxx
Subject: DSM mechanic in UT.
Message-ID: <#14>
Hi,
My clutch finally took a S@#$! I'm gettin' the CFDF, but am looking for
someone to install it. The local dealership who I have been happy with
up till now, will not install anything other than the stock replacement
and still warranty their work. So in my opinion, they are now SATAN!
Can any of you guys in UT. recommend a competent mechanic?
L8TR,
Kenny (91 TSI AWD suckin' up more bux)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 05:43:07 -0500 (EST)
From: MHGSX@aol.com
Subject: 2 G,T
Message-ID: <#15>
I have been experiencing problems with the windshield wiper fluid system.
Being from Chicago, this is very serious to me. Whenever the temperature
falls below freezing, no fluid comes out. I know for sure that the fluid
itself is not freezing in the reservoir, as I use the same fluid in my other
car with no problems. I believe that perhaps the lines coming from the
reservoir may be too thin, but before I start to monkey around with that, I
would like to know if anyone else has had this problem.
Replying to person who mentioned that we would recieve a full tank of gas for
the warranty work on the faulty gas tanks for 95 AWDs, it's not true. I only
got 12 gal. I plan on calling Mitsu. tomorrow to express my disappointment.
Hopefully I can get some sort of monetary compensation for the 2-3 gal. they
owe me.
p.s. The dealer didn't find the 5" exhaust pipe amusing. : )
Thanks
Sonny
-----------------------------Date: 09 Jan 97 06:49:51 EST
From: gary glick <103324.63@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: (1g,2g) Wiper blades
Message-ID: <#16>
Does anyone know where to find Dynal or Dynol wiper blades? They are on my
94
tsi and they work very well and last a long time? They were on the car when I
bought it in September.
Gary
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 08:28:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Cat sizes....
Message-ID: <#17>
TOM...Cat inlet sizes....
You need to use 3" or larger inlet even if you have to neck it back down to
the 2.5" downpipe. I have a flow study from an automotiv engineering
publication where they did flow tests on various inlets and outlets on
catalytic converters. With the exact same brick size, just increasing the
inlet pipe diameter 1" cut the pressure loss through the cat by 44%! I have
the article if anybody would like a copy. The outlet pipe diameter was not as
critical
Bottom line is to fit a cat with the biggest inlet size you can fit under the
car.
Brian
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 09:46:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Archeracin@aol.com
Subject: parts
Message-ID: <#18>
happy new year digest members. i still have some misc. parts & pieces left if
anyone is interested please give me a call or send me a e-mail how i can get
ahold of you my number is 1 218 727 4806 m-f 8-12 & 1-5
1-set 95 eclipse wheels 75.00 ea
1-set 95 talon wheels white 75.00 ea
1-set ats 16x8 aluminum wheels one has little scuff on beed ( great track
wheels) 65.00 ea
3-95 & up turbo short blocks 1550.00 ea
2-91 style non turbo complete new engines manifolds & all 1050.00 ea
8-95 & up complete turbo engines turbo,manifolds,electronics,wires,ect. these
are as complete as they come 1995.00 ea
```we also still have championship t-shirts & sweat shirts left get them
now!!!!
2-brand new in the box 2wd transmissions 90-94 style. 1250.00 ea
5-brand new 95 & up 5spd transmissions awd 1550.00 ea
4-90 94 awd 5spd transmissions rebuilt 1250.00ea
10- misc 90 to 97 automatic tranys new and used 350.00 ea
4-new 95 & up cylinder heads turbo 600.00 ea
and tons of other parts so just call & check before you go spend all that
money paying full list we just might have what you need. ( lots of oe parts
in stock )
call for info at 1 218 727 4806
thanks much
john archer
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 08:55:58 -0600 (CST)
From: Vel Natarajan <nataraja@cig.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Various Galants
Message-ID: <#19>
Actually, one small noticeable difference between the VR-4 and the GSX
is that the VR-4 has the long-narrow LED spoiler-mounted 3rd
brakelight. The GSX has a smaller box-shaped brakelight with regular
bulbs. But by then, you are looking at it from behind, and will see
the VR-4/GSX badge. (The only reason I noticed is that there's
someone at work with a GSX.)
Vel
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 09 Jan 1996 10:40:45 -0800
From: james oxley <LUXJO@thecore.com>
Subject: PMS install
Message-ID: <#20>
>I was installing my PMS and now have some questions.
>1. Do I reconnect my boost solenoid (I was using David's MBC) and all
>of the hoses associated with it?
I assume you are using the upgraded boost control solenoid from EFI.
Either way, you can not the stock boost solenoid for boost reduction under
knock. The stock boost solenoid wiring is used for boost control. I just
remebered that the knock LED will no longer work with PMS either unless you
tap straight into factory harness for stock ouput to boost solenoid.
>What do I do with the hose from the boost solenoid that
>connected to the nipple off of the air filter box (I now have the
>upgraded MAF)?
Don't need it, unless you are uisng stock boost solenoid for boost control vs
boost retard as was stock, then see above.
>2. Why do you have to put the four washers in between the wastegate and
>turbo?
You don't need to do this part with upgraded boost solenoid.
>3. Where did you tap the hose from the MAP sensor?
Disconnected BOV and teed right before that(no cutting involved). thought
that BOV might do funky things to MAP reading, so I Teed into boost guage
line. Got same readings so I put it back to BOV line
>I used the hose that
>I had already cut and used with David's MBC. I believe that it is the
>pressure hose to the BOV.
See above
>If you have installed your PMS and have any suggestions please e-mail me
>ASAP.
1. Ensure adapter that connects upgraded MAS to stock connector is seated
well. Early connectors were "short" on the pin lengths. Use tie rap around
connection to ensure it stays there.
2. I would keep stock boost controller, whatever it is, until you have
fuel/timing set the way you want it. Worry about PMS boost controller later.
You don't ever have to use PMS boost controller if you don't want. I still
use boost graphic as it is easier to change boost than PMS.
3. If you are going to mount 3 pos selector switch on console, be carefull of
small switch position washer on switch. If you take this washer out and
reinstall at a different location, you may end up switching between 3
positions on the 10 position switch (yes, it is really 10 pos, with a
limiter, the little pin on washer) that control absolutely nothing, in other
words, are not connected to any wiring.
Also, mounting on console requires drilling a slightly over size hole in
console padding to allow the switch mounting washer (not position washer)
and
nut to snug up against metal part of console. I mouted mine to left of
ashtray.
4. Make sure wire routing is confirmed before connecing main PMS connector
into stock processor. This connector is all one piece, unlike the HKS or
stock wiring harness that is 3 snap in connectors. Removing PMS connector
out
of stock processor is somewhat harder thn normal.
5. Use padding on both sides of PMS processor wrapped by a strip of black
tape to keep processor from banging around and hitting stuff. Processor fits
in front of stock preccesor mounting, sitting flat.
6. If using datalogging. Get an additonal serial extension cable that can
stay connected to back of labtop. This makes it much easier to switch back
and forth between labtop and controller/programmer, when doing "runs" and
then programming between runs. Software to enable programming straight
from
labtop is NOT Windows based and is not available yet (just talked with Doug
Wallace yesterday as I heard rumor that upgraded software was in Beta stage).
7. Use airbox or mount air cleaner down by trans using QUALITY 3.5 inch
tubing (trans mounting not recommended if you drive in heavy rain/snow). Use
of "Chysler 440 elcheapo intake tube" will ensure it sucks in on itself
creating a real cool whistling sound and no air intake under boost.
Datalogging air intake temp shows mounting underhood air cleaner by itself
is the WORST thing you can do (have seen air intake temps of 160+ during
summer) from a air intake temp stand point. I did not actually measure mass
air increase or decrease, although converting datalog to text file will give
an arbitrary number for mass air that can be compared before and after
intake air mods, or any mod for that matter. The headlight mod does
absolutley nothing in a 1/4 mile, again talking purely air intkae temp. Takes
at least 2 miles at 60MPH for headlight mod to have an effect. Mounting air
cleaner in front of trans is great, unless main fan comes on and blows hot
air into air cleaner.
I have an air intake guage mounted at throttle body, but am considering
getting 2 more PMS air intake sensors and using 3 pos switch to switch
between air cleaner, after turbo, and after intercooler.
Also talked to Doug W. about datalogging EGT. He said using the water temp
circuit would be possible, but I don't know the electronics details or what
the reading would corrolate to. Maybe 10 to 1 . Like 100 degree water temp
would be 1000 EGT, ect...
OX
If you have more specific questions, E-mail me priv.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 07:47:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: overheating...
Message-ID: <#21>
Hey Gary,
You mention a friend who's car was overheating...is it now completely
fixed? You can drive the car hard and it won't overheat?
I replaced my fan relay and the fans come on at idle but after hard
driving, they don't come on....and the car overheats.
Anthony
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 10:51:06 -0800
From: bob_black@pbsweb03.gsa.gov (BOB BLACK)
Subject: Fuel Cut?, Clock Spring (2G,T)
Message-ID: <#22>
I recently changed my BOV from stock to a Speedtek BOV and also put an
aquarium valve in place of my boost solenoid. The improvement in
performance is incredible - anyone with a 2nd gen must replace their
BOV. However, when I step on it, it sometimes feels as if I 've hit
something, sometimes even twice in fairly rapid succession. Until
yesterday's digest came, I assumed that this must be fuel cut.
However, someone posted that they had a feel similar to fuel cut from
bad spark plug wires. BTW, I originally thought that my turbo (stock)
was so limited that I would not have to worry much about fuel cut and
was surprised at getting what I appears to be fuel cut. Please note
that I haven't yet installed a real boost gauge (shame on me), so
actual boost figures are unknown. My question is this: Is it more
likely to be fuel cut or could it possibly be spark plug/spark plug
wire related? I still have the original wires & plugs and only have
11,000+ miles on the car.
My other problem is the scratching noise when turning the
steering wheel. It was noted in a recent digest that this is the
clock spring. I've had this noise for some time but do not like to
take my Talon to a bunch of jeep mechanics. Can letting this go on
cause more damage? Also, this would be covered under warranty,
wouldn't it?
TIA, Bob Black '95 Talon Tsi, FWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 09 Jan 97 10:47:00 PST
Subject: RE: SHOOTOUT RULES
Message-ID: <#23>
Dave,
You forgot one important rule:
NO DUCT TAPE :)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 9:39:45 -0600
Subject: GalantVR4's
Message-ID: <#24>
Just to add to the Galant VR4, GSX, GSR talk;
I believe that the VR4 is the only Galant that has the tail light
integrated into the spoiler, the others have the spoiler , but the
third tail light is still in the rear window.
The VR4 doesn't have the third tail light in the window, instead it
has a sticker saying 4WS (4 Wheel Steering). :)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 12:40:24 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [All] Stealth Mail List
Message-ID: <#25>
>
>
>
>
>
>
The convertible only comes in a GS-T, front wheel drive turbo.....stock
probably runs about 15's or 16's. Just drove one of the new '97
GSX's.......they are dogs. My '91 non-turbo Stealth (with 117K miles) would
eat this car alive. I was not at all impressed with the Eclipse.
-shawn
sdewey@dmv.com
Hey guys...just found this on the 3000GT/Stealth Mailing List, that's
what Shawn Dewey had to say about the 97 GSX vs his 91 Stealth
non-turbo! Any comments? The stealth mailing list email address is:
stealth@starnet.net
[If you are planning on writing something, make sure you represent this
list well, if you know what I mean. -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 14:06:33 -0500 (EST)
From: Sloclone@aol.com
Subject: 1G race story.
Message-ID: <#26>
Driving the mighty Laser tonight. This RX-7 with two young guys in it pulls
up at a light. It's a cement road near the college and goes right past the
police station.
He's revving his rotary up. I'm at a disadvantage with the FWD as 1st gear
is about useless with the Aqua-treads.
So he launches pretty good, I
ease it out and get into second as quickly as possible before hitting it
hard. By that time, he has over three cars lengths.
22 psi and I'm
rolling, more like burning past him, realed him in, into third, five
lengths. I shut her down. They roll up, slow down, then give me the
finger. Nice chaps. Maybe they thought the car was out of control when it
passed them spinning the entire time. Who knows.
Come out of the post office the same night, this guy has a 90 AWD Talon,
scoffs at the Laser as I walk out. I follow him through a few stop lights.
I hear it revving up, ready to go, I bring it out at 2000 and ease into it
again, hit second and pull away to third, he must have been back about ten
lengths by then. Man is stock slow! If only this thing was AWD. But it's
hard to complain when it gets over 30 mpg and has run 12's.
DS's are it.
------------------------------
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id OAA24632
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 12:00:06 -0800
Sender: owner-talon
Precedence: list
[I have added a bunch of new FAQs to the website. Also, I added
a section to the Personal Information section of Club DSM for
indicating whether or not you'd be interested in appearing on
a list of people who will help out stranded Club DSM members
or help with large projects in your area. This listing will
only be available to Club DSM members. Also, phone numbers will
only be available to Club members from now on. I don't quite
have the page that prints out a listing of these "helpers" yet,
but that will go in this weekend. -talon mgr]
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) chancm00
LOOSE REAR DIFFERENTIAL
2) Shindley
unhappy customer
3) Andrew Lu
For Sale
4) Vince Chiaro
WANTED: Koni shocks
5) Mark Cookson
Changing VR4 wheels to T/E/L wheels
6) NMastrocol
(1G,T) Valve cover gasket. 91awd.
7) LEARJET24
[2G,T] Increasing Boost, ect.
8) kyle munz
Collision Story (Long & Sad) :(:(
9) Snoopy-Boy!
Re:LA DSmer help?/Lancer Evolution IV Test drive.
10) Scott Carter
1G T AWD X-MAS BLUES (HARMONIC BALANCER)
11) Jesse Hustad
Lights and Diff
12) Joe Jankord
PMS
13) Tom Stangl
TODD's ECU code, piston torched, gauge faceplates,
14) Btalont
Clutch slipping...
15) Arman Nikzad
[2G][T] AWD Eagel Talon question
16) Btalont
PMS notes....
17) markp
running leaner _not_ under boost
18) JULIANNY.JIMENEZ
16g Upgrade (2G)
19) Allon Rauer
[2/3G??, T] Does '97 == '95+
20) gselph
Green and yellow wires / Roll Cage
21) Warren Tsai
Re: Stealth Mail List
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
9am.
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 15:26:35 MST
From: chancm00@hg.uleth.ca
Subject: LOOSE REAR DIFFERENTIAL
Message-ID: <#1>
[RTP]
Hi, I have a 93 TSI AWD. and seem to have the loose rear end. Can anyone
tell me the procedure to fix the loose differential. My car only has
90,000 km. Thank you.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 18:30:01 -0600
Subject: unhappy customer
Message-ID: <#2>
1G-T (long)
Fellow DSM'ers:
I recently burned up my engine in my '92 GSX. A heater hose bursted and
I melted major parts during an impromptu race (the best kind). I am
overhauling the engine myself and sought parts and advice from
everyone. The local dealer grants me 20% off new Mitsu parts and had a
new "loaded" head for my car for $937 (my cost) plus tax. In a
conversation with an Alamo AutoSports representative in San Antonio it
was told to me that I should get a '94 head because it is "tumble flow
ported" and will provide superior performance. The bare head was quoted
to me as $930 and I would have to buy valves and lot of other things to
complete the head. The total cost would have exceeded $1400. I went
ahead and placed a "large order" with Alamo falling for the advice. The
order exceeded 2 grand. I needed new pistons and virtually everything
else that moves in that engine!
Fortuitously I had a subsequent conversation with Dave Buschur who
listened to my story (I called him to order a front motor mount). Dave
looked up information for me regarding the '94 head. There is nothing
in the Mitsu literature that refers to "tumble flow porting" on any head
prior to '95. The only thing the '94 head had that was different was a
couple of larger exhaust manifold studs, hardly able to provide
"superior performance". I felt as though Alamo was playing me for a
fool. I cancelled the order with Alamo and ordered everything from Dave
Buschur! Dave was able to provide all the Mitsu parts BELOW my 20%
discounted price from the local dealer! Needless to say, I am very
grateful for learning the truth and at the same time hurt that I was
considered "a sucker" by Alamo (my feeling). Perhaps they didn't know
any better. I don't care. I was paying for it. Not any more.
I had previously sent my (Alamo) intercooler to Alamo for a pipe
upgrade, offered to me in a "cold call" a few months ago by Alamo. The
upgrade was explained to be the replacement of the standard size pipes
(in and out) with larger pipes. Since I have a 16G I needed only the
output pipe replaced. I was told on the phone that this would cost
"about $35". I sent it off. When it came today I was billed $90.
Alamo only replaced the output pipe with a larger pipe, but Steve Bell
of Alamop told me the "rubber interface tubing costs $50." I guess they
are getting even for the cancelled order, I don't know. I don't care.
I have had it with Alamo. They have "had me" for the last time. I have
purchased thousands of dollars worth of items from them this past year.
I have taken their advice, some good, some bad. That's enough. For me
I have been burned and I will always "remember the Alamo."
Rick
'92 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 17:29:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Lu <alu@scf.usc.edu>
Subject: For Sale
Message-ID: <#3>
Hi,
My friend has the following for sale:
1. Profec: 6 month old, $350
2. 2G AWD HKS exhaust: 4 month old, $350.
Please E-mail me if intreested, I'll give my friend's number.
I have a few sets of aftermarket springs for 2G AWD for sale also!
Andrew
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 18:55:32 -0800
Subject: WANTED: Koni shocks
Message-ID: <#4>
I am looking for a set (front and rear) of Koni Yellow shocks for my 92 FWD
Eclipse to go with my H&R springs that just arrived yesterday. I am actually
looking for some USED ones in EXCELLENT condition or else if someone knows
where I can get some news ones for a reasonable price. E-mail me with any
info (chiaro@netcom.com) Thanks!
Vince.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 19:24:15 -0800
From: Mark Cookson <mcookson@ricochet.net>
Subject: Changing VR4 wheels to T/E/L wheels
Message-ID: <#5>
Galants only have 4 lug wheels (which seems really stupid since they are
largely based on Eclipses).
I was thinking that it might be easier to get a big brake upgrade if I had
nice 5 lug wheels (not just the tire/wheel, but the whole thing from the
drive shaft out to the calipers/rotors). The thought of going down to the
local salvage yard and taking off a wheel assembly seems like a bit much,
but I am about to go through my Chiltons (T/E/L book) and my VR-4 shop
manual to see what I can see, but I was hoping someone on the list might be
able to comment on the feasibility of such an operation.
Any thoughts? It would certainly be different...
Thanks,
Mark
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 22:47:55 -0500 (EST)
Subject: (1G,T) Valve cover gasket. 91awd.
Message-ID: <#6>
My valve cover gasket leaks some oil and I need to replace it put two bolts
are stripped. Will re-tapping with same size help or to I have to put in a
Helli-coil or other insert. My idle is not great, am I losing vacuum through
the leaking gasket?
Can the transfer case, tranny and diff. be rebuilt? If so how much do you
thing it is for each. Would I be better off buying used or are rebuilt ones
available? My hole drivetrain is sloppy (play) but all CV and drive shaft
joints are tight.
All advise and info is appreciated and required because I'm border line on
trading this in for something (dsm of course) newer (93).
Thanks, NMastrocol@aol.com
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 23:22:02 -0500 (EST)
From: LEARJET24@aol.com
Subject: [2G,T] Increasing Boost, ect.
Message-ID: <#7>
I own a 1996 Talon TSi, (currently in the shop waiting for me to give the
OK for a new engine to replace the current one that has a thrown piston rod
that put a hole in the side of the engine block. She only had 15,300 miles
too, my poor baby.)
Anyway, I was wondering what levels of boost were safe to run once I get
the car, or a replacement back. I have read any numbers from 17 to 22psi,
but I was wondering what would be best with my setup. Currently I have added
a RS Akimoto Intake, removed ALL the honeycombs from the MAS and am
about to
install a 30psi boost guage and turbo timer. Once I change out the blowoff
valve I am going to increase boost, but I don't know how high to go. I also
would like to know if It is necesary to upgrade the exhaust($) before
increasing boost. I am hopeing I can get away with a couple of psi before
installing one. Thanks for the help!!
Justin M.
-----------------------------Date: Fri Jan 10 00:15:38 1997
From: kyle munz <kmunz@envirolink.org>
Subject: Collision Story (Long & Sad) :(:(
Message-ID: <#8>
Sad day in LoQ-Land :(
Today while cruising down TX-HWY 3 in the left lane @ about 30-35mph, granny
in the right lane decides she needs to make a U-turn. I hit the brakes and
edged over as far as I could, but at about the last 15' my brakes locked up
and I hit her. SHE WAS MEAN!!! "Didn't you see my light???" I can't see turn
signal lights when the car is sideways in my lane :P I thank God that noone
was hurt, especially my girlfriend in the passenger seat. But the 'Blue Lite
Special' is bearing the battle scars. One war story with a sad ending. I was
able to drive away from the accident thankfully, but I can't open the pass.
side door, and the lite only opens half way, its drivable atleast. The cop
didn't want to ticket either of us since no witnesses decided to stick around.
For some reason he considers my gf biased :P The old lady insists she was
turning from the left lane, well, there's no turning lane southbound and
inorder to get sideways in the lane like that, she would have had to have
locked 'em up, cut the wheel, pulled the parking brake, and let off the foot
brake. (I know I can't pull this off and stay in my lane, I doubt granny can.)
or she turned from the right lane. I got pictures of the skid marks, mine are
perfectly straight down the middle of the lane up until the impact. I saw the
dent where the right point of my bumper hit the front of her back door (olds
'88). According to the skid marks, and the impact signs, and my gf's
statement, I feel I have solid proof that she turned from the right, but I'm
afraid they're going to play the 'punk in a sportscar' card on me :P She's
claiming it was my fault. Well, I claimed the accident with her ins. company
before she did. I have only liability ins. so my ins. co. won't help unless
her co. sues me, and then its only to save them, not me. I'm sure I'm going to
have to sue if state farm doesn't want to settle out of court.
Are there any Lawyer types out there cool enough to drive DSMs that want to
give some advice? The adjuster is looking at it tmrw, but I hope to get it to
a body shop for an estimate before the adjuster tries to bend me over. If the
monkeys decide to total my car, or worse, if I have to fix it myself, I was
wondering if I could get some help here?
Anyone have, or know where I can get a right front '91 fender?
A right headlite assembly and the plastic lense and side marker lites
underneath it?
Right side mirror?
The intercooler was also slightly mashed, though it doesn't appear to be
leaking. I brought it up to 7psi with no appearent flooding, but wasn't really
in the mood to stomp on it. I'll bring it to a radiator shop to be tested,
unless the damage will hinder my performance, then I suppose I'll need a new
one. Atleast the 2 week old K&N wasn't damaged :P The car still drives
straight, well not quite, but no worse or different than before so I'm
assuming there was no frame or suspension damage. I couldn't see any. All of
the fluid levels appear to be the same aswell and I noticed no puddles under
the car. Anything else I need to check in a front impact collision?
Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to get it off my chest and make my mind
stop buzzing... Why couldn't they have hit the @#$#&^$#% MG????? Why is it
always my Mitz cars??? :(
~Kyl3 Munz
'91BlackTSiAWD
The One-eyed 'Blue Lite Special'
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 21:23:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Snoopy-Boy! <dfong@cs.uop.edu>
Subject: Re:LA DSmer help?/Lancer Evolution IV Test drive.
Message-ID: <#9>
Hi everyone,
With regards to my 1G talon having problems with "possibily foriegn
objects entering the turbo", as I do not have tools and equipment and a
garage to check out the problem like flushing the intercooler or throttle
body etc...should I bring it to the dealer to checked it out? or bring it
to a performance shop?? As I do not live in LA and my car is there, does
anyone living in the Los Angeles know of any shop that is pretty good
with DSM??? Thanks.
Oh by the way, I am right now in Hong Kong, I test drove my friend's
Lancer Evolution IV, that monster has 280 factory BHp equipped with
active AYC....think is active yaw control? Damm it grips a 100X better
than my Tsi AWd...I do not think I want to know its cornering limits
plus that thing really files!!! It comes stock with reclinable Recaro
seats and momo steering wheel...HUGE front mount intercooler monster
brakes..and fog lights as big as the WRX!!!! its 0-60 is tested faster
than the NSX,Supra turbo, Rx7, WRX. It's about the FLAT 5 figure. The
friend of mine who drove this while ME being the passenger;I had never
been so afraid before, I must say that while he was doing crazy stunts on
these tiny Hong Kong mountains 2 way roads, I was hanging on to my dear
life, might have even broke his door handle! He was going down hill and
into a corner, that guy step on it instead of slowing down and did a 4
second sliding turn through the corners. Damm csary but Cool. Wish I could
bring it into the states.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 09 Jan 1997 23:24:31 -0600
From: Scott Carter <cart9929@nova.gmi.edu>
Subject: 1G T AWD X-MAS BLUES (HARMONIC BALANCER)
Message-ID: <#10>
Greetings all!
I must add another sad X-mas story to the current list. I was leaving
to travel home from college (Michigan back to KY) and I heard a
mysterious rattle. I removed the top timing belt cover and the noise
was a little louder. The belt looked like brand new (57K) and the
engine was idling and running fine. My only modes were a K&N, no
restrictor, the air meter screw backed off, and a bleeder valve.
Anyway, the noise stopped and I had to get home ... it was the Saturday
night before Christmas and I had a good 500 miles to travel fully
loaded. I decided to take the chance. I ran on cruise all the way home
with no problems except you could here a strange wizz sometimes when the
clutch was depressed. So, I was at home. I turned onto my street and
when I shifted into third, there was a loud pop and the engine went
dead. When I attempted to restart, the starter was in free spin! I was
TWO BLOCKS FROM HOME!
The tear down. Apparently, the harmonic balancer took a sh*t and the
noise was the balancer eating my belt cover. Upon removal of the valve
cover, only two cam followers were still on the lifters, the rest were
distributed around the cams. One was busted, and one was missing with
no trace. Luckily the valve train otherwise seems okay. As soon as I
get a new balancer, followers, and belt, we are going to check
compression. The top of the pistons appear fine and the plugs looked
okay - maybe it won't be too bad :)
So, questions: Has anyone ever had a balancer fly apart? Has anyone
ever opened up the engine and been missing a cam follower? I can't find
anyway it could have made it down further into the engine. Let me know
if you have had similar problems.
Many thanks and have a great 1997!
Scott Carter
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 9 Jan 1997 22:52:32 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Lights and Diff
Message-ID: <#11>
Nat. . .
I have done the mod to the front lights, with the headlight mod
and fog light mod the car looks really good.
Everyone. . .
You probably saw my post about the rear differential. My question
is whether or not it is a problem to pull off the cover that is on the
rear of the differential. The reason is that I want to see what is
exactly going on inside there. What advice does everyone have for me in
doing this?
Thanks
Jess
90gsx
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 01:01:30 -0500
Subject: PMS
Message-ID: <#12>
Hi guys. Well I finally have the PMS and MAF installed. I do have more
questions though. I have not altered any of the three base programs yet.
The intake sound is MUCH louder now with the MAF. Should it be much
louder? Under boost it seems almost twice as loud as it did before the
MAF. Also the car is running very rich. The air temp here in Michigan
has been in the 20's, would that cause it to run rich? Do I need to make
adjustments to that right out of the box? The car, also when at idle,
stutters when I tap the throttle. The RPM's start to bog and then they
jump right up. What would cause this? Is this something that I need to
adjust too? Thanks for the help again!
Joe Jankord
'92 Talon Tsi-R AWD
-----------------------------Date:
Fri, 10 Jan 1997 02:46:31 -0800
Subject: TODD's ECU code, piston torched, gauge faceplates, shim stock,
etc....
Message-ID: <#13>
OK, for those of you NOT following the saga of my car on IRC, I blew up
a piston, and got it back together over SEVEN WEEKS, working on
weekends, in my apt parking lot, with hand tools. The gory damage on
the piston can be seen at:
http://www.best.com/~talonts/mods/piston.html
Check it out if you want to see what happens when you lean out a car too
far.
Now that my car is running, I have started testing Todd's ECU mods - one
is using the stock boost gauge as an AF ga - it works great, but we need
someone to make up a new faceplate for JUST that one gauge - any
takers? Also, with his PROPER fuelcut fix, I got NO fuelcut with my MAF
returned to stock. With the stock level chip, it FCed at 15-16psi in
the cold - I put in the next level chip - NO FC. I will be opening the
bleeder tomorrow to try out the chip fully, and try out the next step
chip if necessary ;-)
For shifter rebuilds - I stripped down a complete shifter, and took
pics. I want to PROPERLY rebuid it using shims. Where in the HECK do I
get a pack of miscellaneous shim stock? Oh, and the shifter teardown
pics are at: http://www.best.com/~talonts/mods/shifter.html
Finally, does anyone know where to buy HeliCoil REFILL kits? I can't
find them locally. I will need to refill the 10mmx1.25 kit sooner or
later.
Tom Stangl
1990 Talon AWD
1992 Laser AWD
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Fri, 10 Jan 1997 08:20:25 -0500 (EST)
Btalont@aol.com
Subject: Clutch slipping...
Message-ID: <#14>
Jeff...cold slipping clutch...
You are correct that a marginal clutch will slip, especially when cold. The
friction material doesn't grip as well when cold and will slip under
load...3rd/4th gear under boost typically, when the clutch is worn out. What
happens is the disk wears to a point where the pressure plate has begun to
run out of stroke and/or the clutch disk is worn to the point that the facing
material has worn down to the rivets so the rivets are riding on the flywheel
and pressure plate. This prevents the disk material from contacting the
flywheel and pressure plate and voila'.....slipping clutch.
Brian
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 08:54:47 EST
From: anikzad@symbol.com (Arman Nikzad)
Subject: [2G][T] AWD Eagel Talon question
Message-ID: <#15>
Hi everyody,
My name is arman, and I am about to become a
owner of a 1995 talon AWD, Now to my questions
[RTP]
1) what should I look for when purchasing
the car? I am getting the car from a
dealer and want to make sure all
recalls/TSB have been done...
2) As far as AWD go, is LSD an option or
part of any AWD system. the car I am
looking for has ABS, sunroof, but I did
not see any mention of LSD...
3) Any idea how much a real clean, talon
95 AWD, black, bone stock, 10K with
sunroof, and ABS would be worth...
Thanks in advance, and email private if U want.
Happy motoring
Arman Nikzad
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 09:04:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: PMS notes....
Message-ID: <#16>
Sorry for the extra post but another note to add to OX's post on PMS tips is
to use the stock air box. I had the outlet of the stock air can enlarged at
the local muffler shop just enought that I could press in the ProM MAF into
it. I then siliconed the connector into the hole the stock MAF used for the
wiring connector.
This gets you 3 thing. One, it looks completely factory to prying eyes and
the smog nazis, 2 it allows for cooler air, and 3 it stablizes the idle and
protects the MAF from propwash of the cooling fan which improved my idle.
Along with OX, hollar if I can help any PMS users out there. Also OX, the
datalogging of egt's would be a terrific addition.
Brian
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 09:21:59 MDT
From: markp@Exabyte.COM
Subject: running leaner _not_ under boost
Message-ID: <#17>
I has the strangest thing happen last evening going home:
the car ran leaner and leaner off boost, as though it
was learning its way there. off boost means -10" to 0"
of vacuum, very little foot on the gas pedal.
the car: '92 GSX, breathes very well, 16g, hks FCD, dave's
in-tank fuel pump.
conditions: roughly 15 degrees F, elevation from 5300 feet
to ~ 6500 feet.
I have a 30-segment fuel/air monitor on the O2 sensor and
watched it while loafing along in traffic at 50 or so in
4th. initially, after the car warmed up, the mix seemed to
"hunt" between lean and rich, as I've seen it do in the past.
over the course of the next half hour, the range it hunted
over headed leaner and leaner until it was restricted
to both ends of the lean set of LEDs. If I punched it into
boost, the highest that it would read was the high end of
the stoich range. (yow).
I pulled over, turned the car off, waited 10 seconds, and
restarted it -- the ECU then would hunt thru stoich to the
start of rich, and continued to do so all the way home.
I don't think the FCD was at work here as I kept the rpms
low and was out of boost -- but could be wrong.
Todd, this thing was running progressively leaner -- as though
it was trying to learn its way, but in the wrong direction;
any comments or thoughts would be appreciated. maybe it's
seeing bogus data from a sensor and going into some fail-safe
mode, w/o firing the check engine light.
[Have you thought about some other problem, like perhaps your
fuel pressure regulator? The ECU reads the oxy sensor the
same way that you do, so it shouldn't be lean. To give you
an idea of where it should be, when I made the factory
boost gauge display the 0-1V range of the oxy sensor, during
cruise, the oxy sensor would bounce between 0psi and 7psi.
At idle, it would end up full lean for a couple seconds,
then blip rich, then repeat. -talon mgr]
the next time this happens I'm going to pull over and try to
read any trouble code being presented.
has anyone else out there had this happen?
Thanks in advance,
Mark Pilon
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 11:25:45 -0500
From: JULIANNY.JIMENEZ@EY.COM
Subject: 16g Upgrade (2G)
Message-ID: <#18>
What's up fellow DSM'ers,
I just upgraded my stock turbo with a 16g. Finally, the beast has awakened.
Damn! what a difference. The top end is really strong. And I still have the
stock upper intercooler pipe! (You know, that flat piece of plastic) installed.
I have my profec set to only 17 psi. I want to install an air/fuel meter and
the upper intercooler pipe upgrade before setting the boost any higher.
Any recommendations as to which air/fuel meter I should install?
Which one is the best? Any info will be greatly appreciated.
I want to thank david buschur for a terrific job setting me up with the 16g.
He also ported my exhaust manifold and o2 sensor housing. Thanks again
david, for all the wonderfull work and for all the information provided.
Time to go to the track and get some time slips. I'll keep you all posted.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 10:17:42 MST
From: Allon Rauer <rauer@fashi.fc.hp.com>
Subject: [2/3G??, T] Does '97 == '95+
Message-ID: <#19>
Hey, all,
I was shamefully embarassed by a Camaro Z28 the other day, so
it's time to kiss stock goodbye! Before I try to crank extra psi
from the turbo, I just wanted to make sure: has anyone been under
the hood of a '97 and compared it to a '95+? Did Mitsu make any
non-cosmetic changes to the Eclipse between '96 and '97? I don't
want to encounter any surprises when trying some '95+ mods
on a '97.
I ordered my GSX in July, and waited 'til November for this
baby, so I'll be damned if some cocky, Camaro-driving punk is gonna
leave me eating dust!
Thanks.
~ Allon
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 12:30:56 EST
Subject: Green and yellow wires / Roll Cage
Message-ID: <#20>
After replacing my belts/pulleys this week due to a crankshaft pulley failure
I attempted to reconnect my oil pressure gauge sender wires that were
damaged
during the failure.
The gauge sender had one yellow wire going to a single tab terminal on the
oil pressure gauge sender that was frayed badly and a green wire that was
dangling nearby.
I think the yellow wire by itself goes to the oil pressure gauge sender tab
terminal but does anyone know where the mystery green wire may go? The
wire
is part of a harness that is located right below the alternator and next to
the oil filter. I've looked all under that area of the engine bay and
through various wiring diagrams to no avail. The dealer's computerized
wiring harness diagrams were useless.
I picked up my roll cage last night from the powder coating shop. It looks
beautiful. I used a black wrinkle powder coat that my company (Nordson) uses
on all of our equipment. This stuff is tough as nails.
Putting in the cage is turning into quite an experience. I had to remove the
front and back seats, and the rear 6x9 speakers. The AutoPower cage is
definitely a very close fit in every direction. It will definitely stiffen
up the chassis. The shop I bought the cage from suggested I place the entire
vehicle on jack stands so as to unload the suspension during the
installation. This suposedly has a dramatic positive effect on stiffness.
I put the main hoop in last night along with the rear supports. As I was
putting the passenger side bar in that goes along the roof line down to where
the passenger's feet lie I begin to notice that my glove box would no longer
open. A few whacks with a sledge hammer will eliminate the problem (I hope)
but it was getting late so I let it be for the night.
I was sitting on my Talon's floor pan looking around absorbing the new look
of the roll cage when my friend that was helping me started laughing.. He
said "You finally did it.. your Talon is no longer a car.. it's a race car!"
Heh heh,
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 10:02:09 -0800
From: Warren Tsai <warranty@corp.cirrus.com>
Subject: Re: Stealth Mail List
Message-ID: <#21>
>>
>>
>>
>>
The convertible only comes in a GS-T, front wheel drive turbo.....stock
probably runs about 15's or 16's. Just drove one of the new '97
GSX's.......they are dogs. My '91 non-turbo Stealth (with 117K miles) would
eat this car alive. I was not at all impressed with the Eclipse.
>Hey guys...just found this on the 3000GT/Stealth Mailing List, that's
>what Shawn Dewey had to say about the 97 GSX vs his 91 Stealth
>non-turbo! Any comments?
Nah...why flame an idiot who doesn't know what he's talking about? With
the 160hp SOHC V6 or even the 222hp DOHC V6 engines those heavy-ass
non-turbo 3000GT/Stealth can't even match the power/weight ratio of a stock
Eclipse turbo...first gen or second gen.
Here is something funny that I thought I share with you guys. I was in the
Mitsu dealer getting my cold-start whine fixed, and was browsing through
the 97 3000GT brochure (nice looking wings, I must say). The el-cheapo
160hp 3000GT (not even the 222hp SL) is pictured in front of a race track.
Nice picture. But then I read the fine print that said, "This vehicle is
not designed nor intended to be used as a race vehicle." So there! Send
*this* to that Shawn Dewey guy....
He is just jealous because he was stupid enough to buy an el-cheapo Stealth
in the first place....
Warren (heehee I hope I didn't offend anybody on this list who happens to
own a 3G/S???)
------------------------------
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id PAA23533
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 12:00:10 -0800
Sender: owner-talon
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) CHRISG485
Various
2) Jackson, Kahlil - TP headliner repair
3) Victor DelCol-YEGR07 Leaking Windshield Washers Damaged Paint [2G]
4) Dan Warren
Price for high mileage car?
5) speedrcr
Greetings from a new member
6) dwright
My baby
7) Ying Hau Wang
Re: Eclipse/Talon
8) Michael
[1G, T] Lost my email regarding valve cover and s
9) Joe Jankord
Condensation on my MAF...
10) Kyle.Zingg
Happy oil line, thanks, fast 3000GTs?
11) Hank A Bell
GULFCOAST DSM CHAPTER
12) ACC7973
Dyno
13) MBlue22999
Spark plug info
14) James P. Gonzales Re: [2/3G??, T] Does '97 == '95+
15) JASON E INZER
1G low idle; 16G turbo,3000GT brakes
16) Bobby Bernauer
Hydralics
17) dixon
Nos system for sale
18) Gabe Chung
white eclipse..
19) NumbLine
1GT FWD Questions/Comments
20) anthony p. nguyen sorry
21) The4Bangr
parts needed/for sale
22) Ron Gregory
Galant info.
23) Pete Turley
dsm help page/shadetree page
24) Casey Rayman
Electronic BOV
25) M3GTVR4
<2G/T> Various
26) Mike Croutcher
DSS Pricing/Sale items
27) Douglas S. Raeburn RE: 1997 Gas Tank Recall
28) ERIC PLEBANI
Ooops
29) BMWFAN
repairs
30) comfrt
Slow Draft
31) tony wilhelm
[2g] archer camber kit
32)
33)
34)
35)
36)
37)
38)
39)
40)
41)
42)
43)
44)
45)
46)
47)
48)
49)
50)
51)
52)
53)
54)
Jason Allerding
[2G,T] Air filters
JChristou
Longer Oil filter
anthony p. nguyen sorry again...
bcurnow
[2G,T] Infinity CD Player + CD-R
madregal@royal.net ( leaking oil...need to replace head gasket
Mike Cornwell
Tire Stuff [FWD, all]
Joe Jankord
PMS Problems...
Chad Gray
drag racing??
John Hartley
Re: Jeff Samaritano...Slipping clutch(1/9/97 posti
FRCFED4
custom fit speaker box [1G, , AWD]
Dave Campbell
Change of Servive Provider
Fedja Jeleskovic/Pic [2G NT] Car for sale
gselph
roll cage install complete
REITMAN, LEON
Re: (HARMONIC BALANCER)
James Roth
Fuel-cut and then some - need help!
Jon Roberts
Archer Brothers Challenge
Thomas Wahjudi
[2G,T] Cold Whine Repair
Snoopy-Boy!
Re: Los Angeles DSMers??
Arman Nikzad
[2G][T] LSD on a 95 Eagle AWD
Stanley Moskal
overhead lights part 3
Scott Ritter
[2G,T] Re: Fuel cut & clock spring. [2G,T] Plugs
jim_jordan
Which springs to get? [2G, T]
Farzaan Kassam
Frame web site.
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
Raceway Park,
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 17:15:26 -0500 (EST)
From: CHRISG485@aol.com
Subject: Various
Message-ID: <#1>
Hi, this is my first post to the digest. I love it, I have read it everyday
since I got my 93 Talon (Non-Turbo). I had a couple of questions on things
I was looking into doing for it.
1: I want to get a different styled air-dam (lower trim) for it. Mine has the
diagonal
and I was interested in getting the kind that is parallel to the ground. My
dealer
told me it would be $600. Is there a cheaper way of getting it?
2: I've looked at the website for non-turbo mods. It talks about the Archer
Brothers
header. Earlier I thought I heard something about a Pacesetter header. Do
you
have any suggestions?
[RTP]
3: What exhaust do you think would be the best for my car. I want the best
performance with the lowest noise possible.
Thanks,
Chris
93 Talon ES
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 15:08:00 -0800
From: "Jackson, Kahlil - TPKGJ" <kjackson@pacent.com>
Subject: headliner repair
Message-ID: <#2>
anybody have suggestions on how to repair a "hanging" headliner? the
fabric material is starting to separate from its padding right in front
of the dome light box. looks pretty tacky.
anybody else experience this or know what causes it? i'm thinking it's a
combination of heat from external environment and from car's heater
(when in defrost mode).
help please! i can't stand this "junker look"!!
TIA,
kahlil
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 16:41:53 -0600
Subject: Leaking Windshield Washers Damaged Paint [2G]
Message-ID: <#3>
For anyone with a 1995 DSM you may notice that your windshield washer
nozzles dribble. There is a TSB regarding this problem (TSB080795). Get it
fixed ASAP. If you car is out of warranty buy the parts and fix it your
self.
One hot summer of having this water, alcohol, soap mix sitting on the
hottest part of the car all day ruined the paint. The paint around the
nozzles was cracked and soft enough to scrape off with my finger. I have
already noticed one other car with the same problem. I am going to see if
Chrysler is willing to repaint the hood because of this.
Please E-Mail me if you have noticed this problem with the paint on your car
and let me know if you had any success in getting it repainted.
regards Victor Del Col
95 TSI
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 18:48:59 -0500
From: Dan Warren <dwarren@FRONTIERNET.NET>
Subject: Price for high mileage car?
Message-ID: <#4>
>I have a 91 Talon AWD with 130K miles on it. I was thinking of selling it come
>spring time. Has anyone out there purchased a used DSM with this many
miles?
>What did you pay? Has anyone sold a DSM with this many miles, what did
>you get for it?
Just sold my 91 FWD for $3,000. It had 123K miles on it. My formula was
take the suggested wholesale price from edmunds, deduct for the mileage
acording to their formula, then I deducted another $300 since it was going
to need a tiing belt replacement at 130k, was replaced at 60k and 70k. I
started at $3,500. Sold it within 2 weeks. Same day as I picked up my 97
Tsi. In fact a guy met me at the dealer and bought it on the spot.
Hope this helps
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 18:47:17 -0600
From: speedrcr <speedrcr@flash.net>
Subject: Greetings from a new member
Message-ID: <#5>
Hi Y'all.
Just wanted to take a minute to introduce myself. I just signed on the
list. I used to work at and owned a big chunk of Alamo Autosports in
San Antonio. I used to own a Galant VR4 when they first came out. Did
EVERYTHING to it....at least what was available at the time....16G
turbo, front mount air to air IC, F-CON, AIC, water/alcohol injection,
etc. Was in the July 91 issue of Turbo Magazine. Anyways, I live in
Dallas now and have an 11 second Syclone (if it ever gets outta the
shop), an Infiniti Q45 with nitrous, and an 87 RX7 Turbo 2 that should
have 375 hp when i get done. The only Mistubishi I own now is a 92 Expo
SP 4-door (yes, a minivan). Anyways, I changed the oil today and found
flakes of bearings in it. My question is this....has anyone ever
dropped the 4G63BT in a minivan? Yes I'm serious. What a sleeper it
would be....c-ya, Rustang!!! The engine in there now is the 4G64 2.4
liter sohc engine. Looks like it will drop right in. My friend Jason
Crum is jonesing to do it...Any thoughts? I am seeking a turbo motor
and front wheel drive auto tranny with low miles. I also need the
wiring harness and computer. Can anyone help me?
By the way, I currently am a warehouse/distributor for BBS and TSW alloy
wheels. And Borla stainless steel and carbon fiber exhaust products, so
if anyone needs anything, drop me a line....
Thanks for your assistance,
Steven Reiter
Custom Wheel Specialists
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 97 17:32:20 PST
From: dwright@SPH.LLU.EDU
Subject: My baby
Message-ID: <#6>
Well he's back! The Hermster is back, better than ever. (For those of
you who don't remember my engine blew, but the dealer wouldn't admit
they screwed up the timing belt causing it to slip.)
The service order says: Tow In No Start. Internal Failure of Calance
Clutch Causing Oil Leak and Rod Bearing to Lock up. Replace Short
Block Assembly and both balance shafts.
In addition to that at no extra charge (including for parts) they
replaced the clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing and repainted the
hood! (One of the great guys at satan said it needed it so had the
body shop come in!)
Anyway, if anyone is looking for a great dealer in S. California, San
Bernardino Mitsu is AWESOME. Ask for Mario.
One question though: the check engine light is on. Satan says it's the
knock sensor, which they will replace next week. They said it is
common for it to be reported as bad after having the engine out for
some time. Is this true? I am not damaging the engine by driving it
early am I? Is it bad that they only replaced the short block and not
the long block? (Okay that was three questions)
Thanks to everyone who has helped me out so much with this. I
appreciate everyone's input.
The now very excited and happy,
Danielle
94 GS-T
GSTChik on IRC
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 19:13:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Ying Hau Wang <yhauwang@unicorn.it.wsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Eclipse/Talon
Message-ID: <#7>
Hi all,
> The 3S Shootout just happened a few months ago. Who won? Not a 3000GT,
> but his little brother, (Bill L.) an Eclipse! Sure Jack's car finally
> ended up with the best time at the event, but the fastest DSM is David
You sound like just because Bill won the DSM are better ... Sorry no
intend to offend anyone.
I don't really agree with this fight over which car is the best. I believe
that he(Shawn) was not impressed with the car because the 222hp
version(non-turbo) is a lot more responsive than eclipses/talon turbos (no lag).
But I do believe that the eclipse will keep up with it if not pass it. I
also believe the top speed on the 222hp is well over 145mph (because there
are some people with the non-turbo version that did it). I respect anyone
that has any one of these type of car(either DSM or 3/S) even if they are
not a turbo or the cheapest model of the car ...
I was an owner of a turbo Plymouth Laser. I'll tell ya, the car is great!.
But in the other hand I still enjoy both of my slow pigs and heavy cars
(3000GT VR4 and Stealth TT)
> Buschur in his '90 Talon AWD. He has run a best of 11.09 off NOS (and
> that's with one less turbo and 2 fewer cylinders!)
One less turbo but a hell of a bigger turbo ... A 20G is three times
bigger than the TD04 we have in our cars ...
BTW, I believe Jack's best time is 11.08 with NOS and 11.3 no nos.
Who said that people can't have a 2 ton grocery getter :)
We could discuss diferences all day long and we would not get and any
agreement on the topic ... Is like saying that Pepsi is better than Coke
...
People, these cars are all related ... Let's just make the experience of
driving then more enjoyable and not trash on people ... Respect I think is
neccessary ... It was his personal opinion. We are all brothers, That's
why I subscribe both list.
PS: This is e-mail is not intended to offend anyone ...
Just some thoughts ...
Thanks,
Take care,
Sincerely,
Hau
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 22:20:06 -0500
From: Michael <grim@genesis.ispace.com>
Subject: [1G, T] Lost my email regarding valve cover and stalling
Message-ID: <#8>
Hey everyone,
Thanks to everyone who responded to my message, only one
problem...somehow I managed to delete my mail from my server before I
ever saw any of it. I did get two message from
Kevan P. Riley
Victor Brant
before I lost it all. So if anyone else sent a message my way, could
you please send it again.
Today I found out just how different our cars are...or so the bulb
replacement guide said at Discount Auto. My front passenger turn signal
went bad so I went to get a new one. The book showed that the Laser
listed 2 different bulbs, one that they didn't have, the Eclipse had a
completely different part number, and the Talon listed the bulb they
were out of. I decided to go home and get the old bulb from the car.
Glad I did, because I found it has an orange color, which the bulb they
did have for the "Laser" was clear. Guess I'll check another shop
tomorrow after work, but this time with the bulb in hand.
Since I replaced the valve cover gasket and the thermostat, it seems
that the car is performing much better. I had that same mild surging
that Tome has been fighting for a while now and I haven't noticed it.
We have a gotten some cool weather here in Florida, don't know if that
made a difference somehow. Could either of these repairs have made a
difference? I was just reading in an older Digest someone saying that
their O2 sensor wasn't working right until they replaced the thermostat
with a stock one. Since my thermostat was actually broken in two, could
this have thrown something out and was making my car stall due to a bad
code somewhere being received? Just a hopeful thought.
See you on IRC!
Mike (RS-Turbo)
91 Laser RS Turbo
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 23:59:45 -0500
Subject: Condensation on my MAF...
Message-ID: <#9>
We have been getting a TON of snow (almost 23") the past two days and
while filling up for gas I decided to add washer fluid. I noticed that
their was a little snow and condensation on the MAF. I don't know how it
got there, but I didn't want the water to ruin my engine so I cleared it
off. My question is, could of it caused any damage already? My car is
running way rich right now, could it be a sign? I have messed with the
PMS and have tried to reduce the fuel and it seems to have helped a
little. I am just concerned though. I guess that I should put the damn
airbox back on over the new filter.
Joe Jankord
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 10 Jan 1997 23:52:34 -0500
From: Kyle.Zingg@RossNutrition.com
Subject: Happy oil line, thanks, fast 3000GTs?
Message-ID: <#10>
[Long Post]
Well, after a few Cokes, and staying up until 5am Thurs morning, the car is
alive again, after a month of begging rides and stealing friends' cars. I
pulled the head and had the turbo oil feed line HeliCoiled, and while I was
waiting, lightly ported the intake and head runners, and cleaned out all of the
carbon in the head. We'll see how that turns out.
Initially, at 3am, I was done. Replaced the head, exhaust manifold, thermo
housing, valve cover, and spark plug gaskets, and the half moon on the valve
cover. Started it up, looked ok, went inside, warmed up and cleaned up.
Looked
out the kitchen window while getting a drink, and saw a wonderful glistening
pool under the car. Gee, I know that I slightly overfilled the coolant... Oh,
S@#$, that's not coolant. Well, the repair didn't take, and I now had 3 quarts
of oil all over the driveway. After spending an hour in the cold cleaning up,
I called in sick to work and passed out. 12 hours later, just before tearing
the head off again, I figured that it couldn't hurt to try the other (original)
banjo bolt that I had. I had replaced the original one with one that seemed to
fit better, but had a slightly smaller opening in it. After 45 minutes of
fighting with it, it finally went in correctly threaded. Added 3 quarts of
dino and prayed. Hallelujah! I can't believe it worked!!! No more leaks, and
it has been running well for 2 days. Hopefully that is the end of that, and I
don't seem to have damaged the engine by spewing out most of the oil. These
things are tough. I must say, the second time around since changing the
timing
belt 5k ago, the timing belt reassembly went much faster, even though it was
2am.
Thanks to Robert Arrowood for catching the mislabeled vacuum lines to the
throttle body in the '90 shop manual (p25-6). My car idles much better now
that I have switched the green and the red striped lines on the top of the
throttle body.
Warren>With the 160hp SOHC V6 or even the 222hp DOHC V6 engines those heavy-ass
non-turbo
>3000GT/Stealth can't even match the power/weight ratio of a stock Eclipse
turbo...first
>gen or second gen... The el-cheapo 160hp 3000GT (not even the 222hp SL)
Very true, but from driving my friend's '93 base 3000GT, they seem a lot faster
than they are from the immense-feeling low end torque of the motor. Only the
now-defunct base Stealth had the 160hp 12-valve motor. Both the base and
SL-trim 3000GTs have the 222hp 24-valve motor. Talk about traction limited. I
can slide that car all over, anytime, and it borders on scary in the snow. The
only annoying thing is that she gets better mileage than my AWD :( Then again,
I get much better traction ;-)
Thanks again to Todd for a great Digest. I get more ideas of things to do to
this car, and I've collected a binder full of juicy info. Now if I only had a
free month... :->
Kyle
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 00:26:23 -0600 (CST)
Subject: GULFCOAST DSM CHAPTER
Message-ID: <#11>
Hi,
Well, it's finally here. The long awaited GulfCoast DSM Chapter
is amongst the other chapters. We are still under heavy construction,
but the look is different, and quite one of its own. Come check it out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7199
[Try http://www.gc.dsm.org -talon mgr]
P.S. If ya want to become a member, (and since Kyle Munz [LoQuito], and
myself [RUFRIDR] don't understand that database stuff), u'll have to send
yer member info to our email account. This is a shared account, so either
of us will surely catch it.
gulfcoast-dsm@geocities.com
Just send the usual stuff:
Name
email
year
make
homepage
mods
hometown
state
Thank you for yer time. Don't ferget to vote fer this redneck!
Hank A. Bell [RUFRIDR]
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 0:53:01 -0600 (CST)
From: ACC7973@ACS.TAMU.EDU
Subject: Dyno
Message-ID: <#12>
I recently Dyno'd my car on a DynoJet Dyno. I did it at Alamo Autosports
in Arlingtobn, who was nice enough to let me borrow a FrontwheelDrive
transmission for a nominal fee. Anyways we put a fWD tranny in and dyno'd it
It was awesome. At 18psi my car made @350 hp. and I was tuning on the PMS
for like 1 and 1/2 hours. It didnt make 10hp differnece either way. I leaned it
out richened it up, jacked the timing up, turned the timing down everything!!!
SO, i finally quit pissing around and turned the Boost up and made 413hp at
6200rpm. torque was 363. I made a few more runs which were 406 and 401hp
anyways it was alot of work, and my biggest determination is that ALL the
power in these cars comes from boost. Just be sure you have enough fuel and
dontdetonate.
~Andy
-----------------------------Date:
Sat, 11 Jan 1997 10:20:31 -0500 (EST)
From: MBlue22999@aol.com
Subject: Spark plug info
Message-ID: <#13>
[Please fix your mailer so it doesn't barf like this. -talon mgr]
Once again, here are a couple spark plug questions I have been asked
recently:
Question #1:
> If the spark is "blown out" by the swirl in the combustion chamber won'=
t =20
> the plug restrike if there is enough energy left in the ignition coil? =
I
=20
> know many engines I tested "multi-sparked" & they seemed to run the sam=
e.
=20
> The main problem seemed to be getting enough energy to the plug. Maybe=
=20
> we [talon owners] need to look into a higher energy coil pack. What =20
> happens then? It couldn't hurt could it? How's about someone doing a =
=20
> coil near plug project & getting rid of the plug wires!
> John Hopkins =20
My reply:
John,
You are right in claiming that a plug is capable of a "restrike," but lik=
e
you said, there must be enough energy left in the coil. I am curious to =
know
where and how you observed this phenomenon. If you had some serious dyno
equipment and if you witnessed this phenomenon on a large percentage of
combustions, you most certainly observed some slight power loss. This
appears to me to be a retard in spark. Spark retard is what many automak=
ers
do to take power away for things like traction control or to adjust for l=
ower
octane gasolines than required (via an octane sensor).
The electric current our spark plugs give begins with a large leading spi=
ke
(tamed by a resistor), followed by a decreasing sinusoidal wave. The spa=
rk
should begin on the trailing edge of that initial spark. This required
voltage (or demand voltage) is needed to overcome a 1MOhm (estimated)
resistance between the center and ground electrodes. If that initial pat=
h is
destroyed (or "blown out") before it can give suitable combustion, your
chances of reaching the activation energy with less voltage are decreased.
It can happen, but I will bet that there is power loss accompanied by po=
or
fuel economy and high emissions (not that we all care).
I do not know what operating voltages our plugs see from the coils, but I
have seen up to 40KV in the industry. Anything more, and you are really
pushing the envelope on a spark plug=92s, coil=92s, plug wire=92s and plu=
g cap=92s
physical capabilities. If you generate too much voltage, you may create =
more
problems than it=92s worth. To contain that voltage, you would definitel=
y have
to adjust the system. You would run the risk of arcing spark from the
coil/coil cap, coil cap/wire, wire/plug cap, plug cap/plug to ground (i.e=
.,
your engine block).
Okay, suppose we figure out a way to get the voltage there safely (maybe =
the
coil-on-plug configuration you mentioned). Now you run the serious risk =
of
carbon tracking (sparking right through the plug=92s insulator walls), or
flashover (from the top terminal to the metal shell). The dielectric
(insulation) breakdown of all of the above mentioned failure modes can li=
e
around 50 - 65KV of a perfect operating system. Not too safe if you ask =
me.
Now we have this huge voltage coming to the end of our spark plug and we
should be able to set the gap as large as we would like for better
combustibility, right? Well, remember that a concentrated spark is more
favorable than a long spark and more voltage does not mean better
concentration. Now we would also be exposing our longer ground electrode=
to
some serious over-heating possibilities along with the plug itself.
Thanks for the point of interest. I hope this answers a couple questions=
you
had.
Question #2:
> From: wu@tab.com (dixon)
>To: MBlue22999@aol.com
> I have mods on my 1991 Talon TSi... k&n , exhaust, boost control,
> manifold ported.... Let me know if platium is worth the money and the l=
ife
spand of=20
> the NGK plugs.
My reply:=20
Dixon,
I use the BPR6EVX (the Platinum plug) and I am very happy with them. Not
only will the plug last longer, but it has better sparking characteristic=
s.
The center electrode is able to maintain a smaller diameter because of t=
he
stronger material (Pt). A smaller center electrode lowers demand voltage=
(V
necessary to spark across the gap). It also creates a more concentrated
spark (i.e. more powerful).
As for the life of Pt plugs, it is almost impossible to say. Driving
conditions and engine applications determine all of that. NGK has never
claimed to last 100K miles, but I have seen NGK Pt plugs last over 130K m=
iles
in a supercharged taxicab with only a minor loss in gas mileage and power.
The automakers will claim 100K tune-up intervals while using NGK plugs, =
but
NGK will not support that claim because we know it is driver dependent. =
It
is safe to assume that the Pt plugs will last nearly twice as long as the
regular plugs.
Matt Blue=20
OEM Product Engineer
NGK Spark Plugs (USA), Inc.
=9290 & =9291 Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 11:23:36 -0600
From: "James P. Gonzales" <jpg@enteract.com>
Subject: Re: [2/3G??, T] Does '97 == '95+
Message-ID: <#14>
Allon writes:
[I was shamefully embarassed by a Camaro Z28 the other day, so]
Z28 does the 0-60 in the 5 second range doesn't it? What were you
thinking?
[it's time to kiss stock goodbye! Before I try to crank extra psi
from the turbo,]
It seems to be the general consensus that any 2G owner that is really
trying to get as much out of the car as possible will need to trunk that
ol' Garrett turbo and get a more powerful one like the 16G. It is
widely accepted that the weakest links in the 2G cars involve the turbo
and the BOV.
[I just wanted to make sure: has anyone been under the hood of a '97
and compared it to a '95+? Did Mitsu make any non-cosmetic changes to
the Eclipse between '96 and '97?]
They should be mechanically identical.
Jim
'96 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 12:39:36 EST
From: jinzer@juno.com (JASON E INZER)
Subject: 1G low idle; 16G turbo,3000GT brakes
Message-ID: <#15>
Hello All!
I would like some input on the 'ol subject of poor idle. my 90 AWD has
been idling around 500-600rpm, 700 w/ A/C on. I noticed it shortly after
i did the MAS mods. I have now reset the MAS to stock and it hasn't help
much at all! Any ideas on where to look? The only mods are NGKs, K&N,
and shifter mod and A pillar gauge.
Other notes: I am about to park the Talon for a while and do some work
on it. I just finished replacing the timing belt(s), and water pump.
The pump was on its last leg! The bearing was leaking and I couldn't
have timed it better.
Since my boost has fallen off (again) I suspect the turbine housing is
cracked. If the turbine is worn/damaged at all- This would be a good
time for an upgrade! How much would a 16G cost? Would it be a complete
bolt-on replacement for the old one? Is a bleeder valve system needed for
this 16G? Also, I have a 95 exhaust housing I just picked up and plan
on having Dave B port it that will do nicely!
I have read in the past that some folks have upgraded the 90-93 years
front brakes with the similar year brakes from a Stealth/3000GT. What
EXACTLY is needed from the salvaged car?? Rotors, calipers, pads....
what else?? There is a local shop that deals only with Mitz cars/parts.
They buy wrecked ones and part them out. I noticed they had a couple of
3kGT/S cars.. Help!!
Thanks for everything! Stay warm and watch the blue-haired drivers!!!!!
(Jason Inzer)
'90 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 12:12:32 -0600
Subject: Hydralics
Message-ID: <#16>
Hey everyone
I have seen some movies where peoples cars go up and down and they
can
control it. I was told this was done using hydralics or air shocks or
something. Can someone give me some more information on this? Is this
possible to do with an Eclipse?
Thank you in advance,
Bobby
please reply via email -- bobbyb@maas.net
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 01:26:13 -0800
From: dixon <wu@tab.com>
Subject: Nos system for sale
Message-ID: <#17>
I have posted the Nos system in the DSM parts trader
http://fly.hiwaay.net/~gclayton/dsmtrader/ I will be taking bids for a
little bit longer. The system is for the Crx Si and is rated at 50hp.
If any one is interested let me know.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 13:17:58 -0800 (PST)
From: etalon@intergate.bc.ca (Gabe Chung)
Subject: white eclipse..
Message-ID: <#18>
Hey everybody, i was just browsing through the february issue of SCC with
the golf and the front..anyways looking through i came the the Motorsports
Expo '96 and behold a '95-96 eclipse with a veilside spoiler (i think) , big
razo sticker on the windshield..anybody want to lay claim to it? and if you
do, where did you get those two front spoilers for your car?? I saw it in
Options magazine but nobody here in vancouver could get it so please
reply!!.. Thanks alot!
Gabe '95 talon
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 17:06:41 -0500 (EST)
From: NumbLine@aol.com
Subject: 1GT FWD Questions/Comments
Message-ID: <#19>
Hello all. I finally got my car back from the dealer with the new shortblock
and even got a new clutch out of the deal. On my way home I stopped for gas
and took a look under the hood. To my surprise the line going from the turbo
outlet to the wastegate wasnt connected!!! Th line coming out of the
wastegate ran in a loop back into itself, the line coming out of the turbo
outlet just hung there not connected to anything..?? Anybody got any ideas on
why this was the way it was?? Is the dealer just an idiot?
ALSO, I did the shifter mod this morning.. WOW what a difference, I love it!!
QUESTIONS:
I have seen a few cars in pictures with the hose going from the Blow Off
valve to the intake pipe removed. Is this mostly for effect (sound, looks) or
does this serve a purpose? any drawbacks to this setup?
I cleaned out my intercooler today and noticed a large amount of oil along
the intake path. I figure it will reduce now that I have flushed the
intercooler thoroughly but I wanted to know if a little oil along the path is
acceptable?
Thanks for any help all of you can offer!! Pray for my Jaguars this
weekend!!.;)
Rusty Chappell
Jax,Florida 93 FWD EcLiPsE tuuuurbo
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 14:28:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: sorry
Message-ID: <#20>
Sorry about the bandwith, but Jonathan, can you contact me? Mail keeps
bouncing from your address (jonathan_chiem@eee.org).
[That's probably ieee.org. -talon mgr]
Thanks,
Anthony
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 20:14:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: parts needed/for sale
Message-ID: <#21>
Hi all,
If anyone has a set of 17" 3000GT or Stealth wheels (STOCK) for sale and
would like to sell them would you please call Randy at 309-663-6751. Thanks.
Also anyone interested in a mandrel bent stainless steel 2.5" downpipe, used
but has a brand new flex section in it and is in very good condition please
let me know. I have one a customer wants to sell to move up to a 3". He is
asking $200 and will pay the shipping.
Thanks,
David Buschur
Buschur racing
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Sat, 11 Jan 1997 22:33:05 -0600 (CST)
Ron Gregory <rgregory@ti.com>
Subject: Galant info.
Message-ID: <#22>
I was going through my old car propaganda, and found short descriptions
of the various GS? Galants. My '91 literature lists the GSR, the GSX,
then the VR-4, in that order.
The GSX was last produced in '91. It was 2.0 DOHC AWD with auto tranny.
The GSR was produced in '91 and '92. It was 2.0 DOHC with manual tranny.
The GSR had the Active-ECS electronically controlled suspension.
For '91 ABS in mentioned as a "feature", and in '92 it is listed as an
option. The GSR was available in two-tone, also. For '92 only the
GSR and VR-4 had the CD radio as an option. The spoiler was standard.
The VR-4 is.. well, the VR-4. Check the WWW page for full details.
Things I *think* but can't confirm:
* only the VR-4 had fog lights... at least for '91 and '92
* before '93, only the VR-4 had an LED 3rd brake light
Did you know that the Galant VR-4 wasn't even mentioned in the Galant
literature for '92. The Galant VR-4 had its own little 8-page book?
I think both the VR-4 and GSR died for '93. I believe that the
LED 3rd brakelight in the spoiler was an option for '93... or I've seen
a couple '93 Galants with VR-4 spoilers <grin>
Ron Gregory
'91 GMC Syclone (VIN 1452)
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 23:02:04 -0600
From: Pete Turley <ir004861@mindspring.com>
Subject: dsm help page/shadetree page
Message-ID: <#23>
>Also, I added
>a section to the Personal Information section of Club DSM for
>indicating whether or not you'd be interested in appearing on
>a list of people who will help out stranded Club DSM members
>or help with large projects in your area. This listing will
>only be available to Club DSM members. Also, phone numbers will
>only be available to Club members from now on.
Todd- thanks a million. I had a good idea, but it took you to make it safer
and more doable. I have a question, that I bet others were thinking: How
the hell do you keep from burning out on DSM topics? - you've had a car
since '90, right?
I haven't had anything keep my attention for seven years! (I've only been
married just over a year - so that doesn't count)
Hopefully this will keep out of state 'dealer boneathons' to a minimum.
When they did mine, they didn't even use GL-5.
~----------As far as the mechanics page goes, I have a little problem.
I'm also getting names from folks who know performance shops, or guys who
work through dealerships. Here's what I'm going to do - and if anyone else
has a better idea - fire away.
I'm putting in two categories:
1) DSM Listmembers who are offering services, and may be expert mechanics,
but just don't do it all the time.
2) guys with speed shops that are members. I'd prefer it to be dsm mostly,
tho. Not - "Bubba's Speed Shop usually does Hemi's and Rat motors - but
they did a dsm tire rotation last week. put em on the page." Nope. I'd
rather have a little more 'spotlight' on guys like buschur and extreme (to
name a few) that post and actually
If you are affiliated w/a dealer - forget it. nana. nope. zip. sorry - your
buddy x may be a great mechanic for them, but you've still dealing with
'satan'.
I should have the page up early next week - I got a whole lotta dsm
projects goin on. : )
Pete
T-shirt guy, breakdown empathizer -
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 11 Jan 1997 23:38:02 -0600 (CST)
From: raym0082@utdallas.edu (Casey Rayman)
Subject: Electronic BOV
Message-ID: <#24>
Todd
You could probably use a system similar to the boost control solenoid
which would shut off the vac line to the BOV unless the throttle was closed
or you could use a system similar to the BMW idle air control system which
is basically a rotary valve linked to a stepper or DC motor. You would
however have to find or fabricate a much larger version, but it would
probably work.
Casey
'90 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 00:50:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: <2G/T> Various
Message-ID: <#25>
Hi everybody, while flipping through Motor Trend, I came across an
advertisement from Exotic Tires. I check their prices with Tire Rack and they
were between $40-100 less than the originals. So do you guys think that the
remanufactured tires are worth the price or should I get the original tires?
Bob:
Regarding your problems after you install the BOV and bleeder valve. I too
experienced that when I first install the Greddy Type S' BOV(w/out bleeder
valve). This only happens when the temperature drops significantly. So I
guess the temperature must be very cold where you stay, am I right. The
remedy for this is to change the fuel pump. I got a bleeder valve and fuel
pump from Dave B. After installing it the fuel cut went away. BTW,
temperature here in Fayetteville, AR was below 10 degrees F. So far I have
yet to hit fuel cut and my guess is that the fuel pump upgrade work. Hope
that helps.
Lee
96' Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 01:57:49 EST
From: dsspecial@juno.com (Mike Croutcher)
Subject: DSS Pricing/Sale items
Message-ID: <#26>
Well this is my first post to the list under the DSS name.
I would like to say hi to everyone (you know the usual P.R. stuff).
I would also like to say that I am in fact there, or someone will be
there for me, from 9AM to 5PM except for a "floating" lunch.
I also want to say I SHUT OFF THAT STUPID VOICE MAIL SYSTEM. :-)
I now have a simple answer machine.
I have changed some of my pricing. Everyone should check it out.
More pricing changes to come. Most of them are going down.
I would also like some feed back on what should go on sale for "This
months special", ya sure just a month. (remember, I'm not Steve)
no offence Steve
Well you can reach me at DSS at (805) 541-4483
or at my E-mail address. DSSpecial@juno.com
I don't have the E-Mail program at the shop yet so I can only answer
them at night.
Mike
Diamond Star Specialties
(805) 541-4483
DSSpecial@juno.com
Your performance supplier!!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 08:29:17 -0600
From: "Douglas S. Raeburn" <draeburn@execpc.com>
Subject: RE: 1997 Gas Tank Recall
Message-ID: <#27>
Just one minor correction (or at least something different that I was =
told)... I just had mine done, and the service manager told me that the =
recall allowed for $17 worth of gas (pretty close to a full tank in my =
neck of the woods, but not quite). But, by all means, go in as close to =
empty as possible.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 10:39:23, -0500
Subject: Ooops
Message-ID: <#28>
Well went to Atco Racway,
and the damn track was closed :( (snow I guess)
But the trip wasn't a total waste I got to do some cool AWD doughnuts
,in the snow at Atco's parking lot,
Eric
Screamin Eagle
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 10:51:00
From: BMWFAN@gnn.com
Subject: repairs
Message-ID: <#29>
Hello to everyone, this is my first time writing, so will try to
make it brief. Yes, I will admit I am a big German fan, however, I
was so impressed with what DSM's could do in the Turbo magazines
that I sold my 325i for a '94 AWD TSi.
Owning a BMW was much cheaper. The parts did cost more, but they
lasted longer.
Car was purchased in Feb. 95 with 19,000 miles on the clock. I
slammed the car within the first month with Eibach, Koni, etc. No
complaints so far. Later bought a manual boost, found out how to
cheat with gas pedal floored and then turn the boost up. Got some
crazy acceleration. Raced a Viper on the highway with this set-up,
stayed in front of him to 145 mph, melted my engine as well.
Time for new engine, did my homework, talked with Ray from Alamo
Motorsports in Tx. He recommended that I talk with Tad Motorsports
in Lake Zurich, Ill. (Mike and Murray). We had a talk about
engines, horsepowers, and cost. He claimed that the car will run
12.7 in the quarter with his engine and will have no plms for
40,000 miles and would be warrantied for the same (verbal).
Agreeing to his nbrs, I dropped off the car and money.
When I got the car back, upon acceleration, it felt like it was
dragging the back bumper on the pavement when accelerating hard.
However I got massive fuel cut. Complained about it, then some
things were changed, FCD was installed. Car was considerably
slower....took the car back complained about it 20-30 times, seemed
to be the same, they will hold the car for few days and do nothing
and then tell me the car is fine. Along the way, I purchased a few
other parts to try and solve my power loss. Finally, one year
later, a compression test was done, found 40 percent loss in cyl
compression. I told him to fix the plm thinking it was under
warranty since only had 20k on engine. He told me it would take
two days to fix. Six weeks later he was finished, but he said, I
would have to pay the repair bill before I could pick up the car.
I asked him how much was it, $4,000. HUH?
I look at my receipts, I have already paid him $9,000 for mostly
engine work (with a best time of 13.4 @ 98 mph) and yet a year
later he wants another 4,000 for an engine which in my opinion
never ran right. He still has the car and I am in process of
contacting Attorney General among others. I am really P.O.'d with
this service and cost. TAD never gave me an estimate for this
engine work so I had no idea to expect a 4,000 bill staring at me.
I feel it is his responsibility to set up the engine correctly if
the first one didn't work.
Car engine was modded at 34,000 miles, I think it has something
like 51,000 miles on it now. Probably spent about $15-16,000 on
modifications. Would have been cheaper to buy an M-3??
Anyone have any suggestions on how to deal with my mechanic??
He seems more interested in working on his race cars than with
customers cars. Very interested in bleeding me dry too.
An unhappy TAD customer,
Greg Olson
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 14:50:29 -0500
From: comfrt <comfrt@pipeline.com>
Subject: Slow Draft
Message-ID: <#30>
Good Day Ladies & Gentlemen:
I have a friend that does long distance driving on the interstate for various
reasons. He says he gets excellent mileage by drafting 18-wheelers at
around the speed limit. BTW, his favorite car is his Hummer when he's on
active duty.
I think he's inaccurate and partially insane. I don't think his great mileage
comes from drafting, but from driving at the speed limit. Plus, I don't
think he gets close enough to the trucks in front of him to get a decent
draft. He usually maintains about a 2 second following distance.
Is anyone out there that can back me up?
Comfrt, '95 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 15:27:02 +0500
From: tony wilhelm <tony@wilhelm.mdn.com>
Subject: [2g] archer camber kit
Message-ID: <#31>
Has anyone recieved a Archer camber kit, if so
can you tell me tell me what it consists of ?
Is it just a rod with a couple of adjustable ends on it ?
thanks
Tony Wilhelm (gsx96)
96 black gsx (for daylight driving only)
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 17:15:12 -0500
From: Jason Allerding <jmainfo@cris.com>
Subject: [2G,T] Air filters
Message-ID: <#32>
[RTP]
I would like to hear from someone who has used one of the various brands
of filter chargers on their 2nd gen cars. I just installed a K&N FIPK
and was suprised at how LOUD the thing was. You can hear a whoosh as the
car goes into boost now. Is this normal and do all of the various brands
do this???
Thanks for the help
Jason '97 Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 19:36:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Longer Oil filter
Message-ID: <#33>
While I was changing the oil today (1G,T) I couldn't help but wonder if a
full size filter would fit. The filter is parallel to the block, so there
wouldn't be an interference problem. It looks like a Fram HP1 (or similar)
would go right in. This should be less restrictive, and trap more dirt due to
the larger surface area. It would also increase the oil capacity about half a
quart.
I couldn't find any mention of this in the archives, but it seemed so
obvious, Has anyone tried this?
John C.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 17:13:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: sorry again...
Message-ID: <#34>
Sorry for taking the bandwidth, but Darren Moy, could you contact me
soon? The mail keeps bouncing back from your address.
Thanks,
Anthony
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 18:08:02 -48000
From: bcurnow <bcurnow@sonnet.com>
Subject: [2G,T] Infinity CD Player + CD-R
Message-ID: <#35>
The CD player in my 96 Talon skips about 20% of the sound on any CD-R
disc that I have tried on it. Since I have discovered the problem, I
have tried CD-Rs in as many CD players (car and otherwise) that I can get
my hands on. So far, only the Talon skips and stalls.
Does anyone know what might cause this? Is it an indication of an
isolated defect that can be fixed, or do I need to junk this player and
get a new one?
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 18:59:06 -0800
From: madregal@royal.net
Subject: leaking oil...need to replace head gasket
Message-ID: <#36>
i just came back from the shop... i had my timing adjusted 2 degrees... it
made the car more responsive... see i have an AT 1.8. normally-aspirated.
the mechanic showed me oil leaking.. he said the oil gasket needs to be
replaced, he said parts alone would be $300...he went on to say that its a
big job because the gasket also has to be machined and refinished... i
pretended to understand but i don't.. i am seeking your advice. smart of
me huh?
he wants $550.. he said mitsubishi will charge me $900... he wants the car
for 3-4 days...
is this reasonable?
in relation to adjusting the timing.. he didnt want to do it coz he said the
engine might ping... he test drove it after and he said it doesnt...so
there. now..should i always fill up with 92 octane... prior to adjusting
the timing, i was running on 87... and 92 every fourth full tank... HELP.
thanks a lot. the digest has definitely been very helpful to me ...someone
who is mechanically-challenged. :)
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 19:33:48 -0800
Subject: Tire Stuff [FWD, all]
Message-ID: <#37>
While driving in pouring rain today, I fell into a pothole which bent
my right front rim (aftermarket), enough to let the air leak out over
about 10 miles... I have a few suggestions and a few suggestions and
questions for all the DSMers out there.
First of all, CHECK YOUR SPARES AIR PRESSURE. My Goodyear spare says
"Inflate to 60 lbs" in big letters on the side. When I got home, I
measured 30 lbs in it, though it's also stamped 60 lbs max at 1600 lbs
carrying capacity (who has a 6400 lb T/E/L?) I inflated to about 50
lbs...
Also, if you have gone with aftermarket wheels, check to make sure your
lugnut wrench works with your new wheels. When the shop installed my
new wheels, they also put on new nuts that my OEM wrench didn't fit.
Luckily, I rotated my own tires a few months ago and found this out in a
non-side-of-the-road situation.
Now, my question...
I remember following the thread that the AWD'ers had a few months ago
about putting different size tires on the front and on the rear, saying
the differential (?) would melt over time because of the different
rotational speeds. Well, I did some measurements on the different
tire/wheels that my car has/has had...
Tire Width(mm)
STOCK
205
I HAVE
215
SPARE
125
Tire Profile Rim Diameter
Tire Radius
55
16
12.4390"
45
17
12.3091"
80
16
11.9370"
Wouldn't running the spare on one of the drive wheels cause a problem
similar to the problem of running different size tires on the front/rear
of an AWD? I did swap the dinky little spare to the rear until I can
get the rim fixed, as I'd rather have a real tire on my drive wheel, but
am I true in thinking that it's also better for the drivetrain?
Just Curious,
Mike "the smaller tire on the right front cured my drifting to the left
problem" Cornwell
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 23:22:34 -0500
Subject: PMS Problems...
Message-ID: <#38>
Well my woes continue with my new PMS and MAF. The car is running way
too rich. I can try to lower the amount of fuel in that range, but to no
avail! When you are in the engine monitoring mode and you enter mode 2
(Air/Fuel Monitor Mode) what do you get to show up on the screen? My
manual shows that in mode 2 I should see: Air Flow, PW, o2, and Fuel
injector duty cycle. I don't see the Air Flow in pounds per hour. In its
place I see RPM's. RPM's are in both mode 1 and 2. I am wondering if
there is something wrong with with my PMS unit. I am ready too get rid
of the damn thing! Well I am still curious about the stock boost gauge
readings being way off. Although I can hear the increased air being
sucked in when the stock gauge reads any positive boost, my aftermarket
boost gauge and PMS show no boost at the time. This is when my car runs
FULL RICH. If you have any idea what is going wrong with this damn thing
please email me with your suggestions. I'll try anything right now. I
also want to personally thank Brian Hood, James Oxley, James Heck, and
everyone else who has helped me with my questions!
Thanks for your help!
Joe Jankord
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 23:55:35 -0500
From: Chad Gray <cgray@neo.lrun.com>
Subject: drag racing??
Message-ID: <#39>
Could somone explain the classes etc of drag racing? I have never done this
before, and have no idea what i am going to be getting my self into... How
does bracket racing work....? Heads up?
[Check the Racing links on the web page. -talon mgr]
I have a 91 with Bushcur bleeder, cat back exhaust, air filter, and strut
tower braces. I am just looking forward to trying this out. I really dont
plan on (or want too) breaking any records... :)
Also does anyone have tips for FWD drag racing?
Thanks in advanced...
Chad Gray
'91 Talon Tsi FWD with 108K and it's still a BLAST to drive!
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 1997 21:10:05 -0800
From: John Hartley <jjhjr@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Jeff Samaritano...Slipping clutch(1/9/97 posting)
Message-ID: <#40>
I go along with the oil leakage theory here(oil getting on the clutch).
I have always been easy on clutches and never worn one out and the one
on my 92 AWD Talon started slipping off and on at 30k. I never fixed it
and now at 65k, my still holds strong(most of the time). If it was worn
out, I never would have gotten to 65k. Dealer naturally told me that
anything to do with the
clutch is NOT covered by the warantee, no matter what.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 03:29:24 -0600
Subject: custom fit speaker box [1G, , AWD]
Message-ID: <#41>
Since I'm not aware of any custom fit box that successfully utilizes the
limited and contorted space available in the hatch of our AWD cars, I've
decided my next project will be to design and manufacture these for myself
and interested digest members. My tenitive plans are to build a box which
spans the width of the hatch, fitting flush against the back seats, below
the hatch cover, and molded around the spare tire hump. Although I haven't
determined my exact costs, I might be able to sell these at around $100.
Most of this is labor, since molding around the tire will be a slight pain.
And for those with a nack for woodworking, I'll let someone toss the plans
up on their web page. Anyway, I'm just trying to collect ideas and get an
estimate of those who would be interested, so please RTP.
Remember, this is for 90-94 cars only!
Thanks,
-----------------------------Date: 13 Jan 97 8:55:24 EDT
From: eclipsed@camalott.com
Subject: Change of Servive Provider
Message-ID: <#42>
To whom it may concern:
Having become totally fed up with AOL service (or lack thereof) I have
changed to a local service and my new address is eclipsed@camalott.com.
Thank you for your support
Dave, formerly eclipsedwc@aol.com, Campbell
-----------------------------Date: 13 Jan 97 8:56:24 EDT
From: Fedja Jeleskovic/PicTel <Fedja_Jeleskovic@smtpnotes.pictel.com>
Subject: [2G NT] Car for sale
Message-ID: <#43>
95 Talon ESi. Black with grey interior. A/C. Power windows. Power locks.
Cruise control. Option package 21C. AM/FM Cassette. Great condition.
Well maintained. 39K. Asking $12,700 or best offer.
Car located in Boston, MA.
work: 508.623.4297 or
home: 617.321.6880
Fedja
fjelesko@pictel.com
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 9:09:37 EST
Subject: roll cage install complete
Message-ID: <#44>
I finished installing my AutoPower six-point bolt in roll cage last night. I
won't have the five-point harness in until later this week, I'm exhausted
after living in my car for the past 4 days.
A few minor details that you should consider when installing a cage: Both
sun visors and the plastic dome light cover have to be removed. The glove
box barely opens and closes. The factory hood latch release lever is blocked
(have to yank on the cable instead). A-pillar mounted boost gage can't be
seen. The driver's side rear side window which was almost useless before is
now completely useless when looking for cars in the blind spot. Seats no
longer recline very far. Rear 6x9's have to be removed. Back seat
passengers must be well versed in the art of contortionism.
Other than that, the roll cage is awesome! Handling is much improved and the
whole car is much stiffer. With the harnesses in place it will be one heck
of a nice ride.
Wolf Camera in Atlanta, by the way, sells a video camera mount that can
attach to the roll bar for $25. The one AutoPower sells is $85.
For those of you that have replaced your factory seats with a race seat, what
brand did you use and how comfortable/uncomfortable is the ride with a stiff
supension?
I've looked at OMP, Cobra, Recaro, Momo. Those 10 lb seats make a nice
reduction in weight to offset the added roll cage weight. At first I was
concerned about losing the recline feature that is not normally available
with a race seat. Now my factory seats don't really recline anyway.
For those that were keeping tabs, the Road Atlanta event that was scheduled
for this past weekend was cancelled due to bad weather. I'll let you know
about my adventures (this time with video camera installed) when it's
rescheduled.
"Aw shucks, Mr. Track Director, snow? I have AWD.. the race can go on!!!"
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 10:40:00 PST
Subject: Re: (HARMONIC BALANCER)
Message-ID: <#45>
Scott C.
Sorry to hear about your engine trebles. And I am also sorry
to tell you tell you that the sign of cam followers being scattered
around your head, indicates you most likely:
-bend 14 (if not all 16) of your valves
-cracked valve guides. (those you will not see even if you take
the head off)
You should also have pretty badly scored lobes on the cams. At
least on the onces that busted the followers. As far as valve train
"looking" fine, it might look fine even if the all of the valves are bend.
Your missing follower might have gone down the oil return passage.
But I do not think that it is small enough to go down into the engine
block. So check all of the oil return lines, it should be about 2" below
the head surface.
Your best bet would be find a used/new/rebuilt head. Rather then
rebuilding your old one.
Good luck
Leon
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 09:44:18 -0600
Subject: Fuel-cut and then some - need help!
Message-ID: <#46>
My fuel-cut type problems are wierd I am thinking it may be the fuel
injection system controller (such a thing?) or the ECU.
Two months ago I noticed that just after the car reached normal operating
temperature I would get mini-fule-cuts. It would feel just like fuel-cut. It
would feel as though all fuel would be cut for a couple rpm, this is verified
by the imediate full lean condition (no leds lit) on Cyberdyne A/F guage. It
would happen 2 or 3 times with only a couple seconds in between occurences.
I have checked all the hoses, changed the spark plugs, replaced the PCV
valve, and removed the EGR block-off. But it didn't fix anything. Only know
problem is one broken exhaust manifold stud.
Right after the first snow the temp dropped to the teens. I was getting
fuel-cut at 8psi so let out the MAS screw 1 full turn which got me to 10psi.
Still hitting ful-cut I chose to disconnect the boost solenoid plug which
lowered me to 9psi - keeping me safe, for now.
I installed a Buschur fuel pump which I hoped would solve these problems.
Unfortunately, it did not cause I am still getting fuel-cut at 10psi with the
temp in the teens. Wierd thing is that with the boost solenoid plug connected
I get fuel-cut at 6-7psi, with it disconnected I get fuel-cut at 10psi,
bypassing it altogether I get fuel-cut at 10psi.
I have now let out the MAS screw out 4 full turns and I get fuel-cut at
14psi. At 13psi my Cyberdyne still shows full rich, I am assuming this means
I am not leaning out (faith in the o2 sensor).
The problem has now progressed so now it does these "mini-fuel-cut" things
randomly while cruising (10inHg - 0psi). During normal driving the A/F
fluctuates between LED#2 to LED#8. These mini-fuel-cuts drop it to no LEDs
and then jumps to all LEDs - I have never seen all LEDs lit before (not even
under WOT). This goes way beyond your average fuel-cut thing. Just last year
I was running 12psi with a stock pump in below freezing temperatures without
any fuel-cut.
My relevant mods are: K&N air filter, K&N crankcase filter, solenoid
restrictor removed, cat-back Dynomax, magnecore 8.5mm plug wires, Ugrooves
.032, ported throttle body elbow, removed lower honeycomb, removed silencer,
and MAS screw backed out 4 turns. For a complete list go to
http://www.mw.dsm.org/Owner/roth.htm
Due to the odd behavior of the boost solenoid amongst other things I have to
wonder if the fuel injector controller or the ECU is the cause - Todd?
[First, make sure problem isn't with fuel pressure regulator, and make sure
all your injectors are in working condition. Also, check the voltage that
your ECU is getting. This sounds like it could be any of 10 things. Start
with the basics. -talon mgr]
Any help would be appreciated (as my last post was unanswered).
J. Chris Roth
92 Laser RS AWD
-----------------------------Date:
Mon, 13 Jan 1997 10:50:38 -0200
From: Jon Roberts <jroberts@ntr.net>
Subject: Archer Brothers Challenge
Message-ID: <#47>
$30,000 Fuel management system? Well, what is so great about it?
Is it 30 times better than a VPC or a PMS?
How do you guys deal with fuel cut? Care to explain how your solution works?
What do you guys use as a BOV? Crushed factory? What about I/C?
With the amount of knowledge that you guys have, why don't you share more
other than the occasional sale of a FWD tranny?
Jon Roberts
DSM Picture Archive at http://www.ntr.net/~jroberts
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 11:33:19 -0500 (EST)
From: wahjudi.1@postbox.acs.ohio-state.edu (Thomas Wahjudi)
Subject: [2G,T] Cold Whine Repair
Message-ID: <#48>
Hi all,
I'm just curious, for those whose cars cold whine have been
repaired, does the sound come back again after some time ? Thanks.
Thomas Wahjudi
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 08:49:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Los Angeles DSMers??
Message-ID: <#49>
Hi,
I have a 92AWD that has some complicated problems with the turbo, does
anyone living in LA have any shop that you know of that is pretty good
with our DSM to recommend me?? Thanks again.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 12:53:07 EST
Subject: [2G][T] LSD on a 95 Eagle AWD
Message-ID: <#50>
[RTP]
A rookie question,
How can i tell if an Eagle AWD has LSD option?
I know I can take the VIN# to a dealer, but is there a
faster way like by looking at some label or something
under the car...
Help please
Arman
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 10:35:45 -0600 (CST)
Subject: overhead lights part 3
Message-ID: <#51>
Hi, Thanks to all who replied to my problem. The problem still exists.
We(me and Dad) checked all the fuses(both under the hood and under the dash)
twice. We also checked all the fusible links. We checked both by visual
inspection and with a continuity light for fuses and a continuity meter for
the links. Any suggestions as to what to check next? When it warms up we
will check the door switches, and the continiuty to the overhead lights. Any
idea how to check the fusible link connections(other than visual
inspection)? Anything else we could have missed? TIA
Stan
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 13:39:52 -0500
Subject: [2G,T] Re: Fuel cut & clock spring. [2G,T] Plugs
Message-ID: <#52>
Bob Black wrote:
>Please note that I haven't yet installed a real boost gauge (shame on me), so
>actual boost figures are unknown. My question is this: Is it more likely to
>be fuel cut or could it possibly be spark plug/spark plug wire related?
Not worth trying to diagnose until you get a boost gauge. Don't put it off any
longer! You do *like* your motor, don't you ? ;-)
> {damaged clock spring symptoms} Can letting this go on
>cause more damage? Also, this would be covered under warranty,
>wouldn't it?
You may lose (have lost) connections from your horn switch/airbag to the rest
of your car. The repair is covered under warranty.
Plugs:
My own 95 GSX was starting to show a rough low end power curve & idle, so I
replaced the plugs w/ factory NGK BPR6EKN's (@22,000 miles). I do have some
minor mod's: K&N FIPK, pre-95 CBV, occasional bleed to 17lbs. Some
observations:
1. The old plugs' electrodes (hot & ground) were worn fairly smooth. The gaps
had worn open up to a max of about 2X the .7-.8mm spec. (1.4-ish mm).
Electrode color was brown.
2. The plugs are a pain to gap. Anyone have a clever trick for bending these
things? Fortunately, most of the gaps were good out of the box. Hint: use a
wire-type gauge - a flat feeler won't fit within the contoured gaps.
3. The new plugs have completely restored my low end.
4. Idle was still rough, so I up'd the idle speed a squeak with the bypass
screw. All better now.
I'd like to say that it's worth changing the plugs every 20K-ish miles on the
95+ turbo and leave it at that, but I'm not certain that the mileage I've
gotten on the plugs makes sense. Is this kind of lifespan typical? (If so,
then by all means, do change 'em! :-) )
/Scott
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 97 13:35:24
From: jim_jordan@afs-lsc.com
Subject: Which springs to get? [2G, T]
Message-ID: <#53>
I finally had to get under my car to do some work last week.
Unfortunately, my car is to low to go up my ramps! so I had to pull
out the jackstands. I made some adapters of sorts out of some "4 x
"3/4 copper tubing with a slot cut lengthwise. They fit perfectly in
the notches of my jackstands and they protect the seam from bending.
I've been toying with the idea of installing my own springs and
shocks. I plan on using Eibach Pro-Kit or Sportline springs. My
question is, which one should I go with? I'd like to use the
Sportlines but I live in Pa. and it does snow occasionally :>). I get
around okay with the stock ride height so will a two inch drop make
that much difference? I'm leaning toward Koni or GAB shocks; are
they're others I should consider? [RTP]
P.S. I know it's been said before, but it bears repeating. Dave
Buschur is THE MAN! The advice he gave was worth more than my order!
So from now on DaveB is the first one I call for parts.
Thanks again Dave!
Now all I have to do is intercept that credit card bill before my wife
sees it! :>)
Jim 95GST
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 11:21:36 -0800
From: Farzaan Kassam <fkassam@direct.ca>
Subject: Frame web site.
Message-ID: <#54>
I'm just in the process of updating Dave's web site at Buschur Racing.
I want to take an informal poll (not to the list, send it to me private).
What I want to know is, is there anyone out there that cannot view frames?
I don't want to know if you can, I want to know if you can't. I'd really
like to change the formate of Dave's site to frames, but I don't want
people to be left out. Does AOL support frames???
On a car related note, Paul and I raced. It was a damn good race too. We
were heading up this long, long uphill stretch, no traffic around, no one
else around. I floored it in 2nd gear (100km/h) at the bottom of the hill
and he got the jump on me as his boost comes on sooner than the Porsche
does. He was really moving, and I was about to give up, then as I came
into my power range (4500rpm - 6500rpm), I started to come up on him.
When I went into fourth, I started to really move and mid way through fourth,
I went by him rather quickly. This was at about 200km/h. I took it up to
220km/h and then let off. I was surprised at the pulling power of the motor
in the higher gears. No doubt though, when Paul gets his 16G (from Dave)
installed, I will be toast. The S-Trim just doesn't seem to pump as
well as my 16G did (Joe Jankord has that one now). Then I guess I'll have
to get a K27 :)
Farzaan.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 12:00:07 -0800
Sender: owner-talon
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) James Roth
2.5" FWD Exhausts Cheap
2) Hector DeLeon
fuel cut question
3) Scott Borders
Turbo upgrade, intercooler [2G]
4) MDSOG / Ray Parks Integrity
5) Marc S
3000GT vs GSX: House o' Duct Tape Responds!
6) Nick Totoro
Fuel Tank Recall & Stuff...
7) Jon Bennett
Re: dsm help page/shadetree page
8) Mike Cornwell
Windshield drool
9) Richard Silva
Re: Los Angeles DSMers???
10) Snoopy-Boy!
Re: Turbo Eating Foreign Objects/Power Loss(Hi Boo
11) Dave Fong
[2G,T] Infinity CD Player + CD-R
12) Damian_Sigman
Misc questions answered - Long
13) Aaron Whitney
Compression [1g, T]
14) Merritt, Sam (S.) Car for Sale???
15) RYAN DENKE
[1G, NT] Got my new engine
16)
17)
18)
19)
20)
21)
22)
23)
24)
25)
26)
27)
28)
29)
30)
31)
32)
33)
34)
35)
36)
37)
J. Hayden
[2G] Electric Antenna
Frank Williamson
Alarm Disable Question (1G,T,AWD)
APALMER
[1G,T,AWD] Worn Center Shaft
Gary Clouse
Tranny problems [1g,AT,NT]
Robert Arrowood
Poor/Low Idle
CW31
Headliner Repair Procedure
Fedja Jeleskovic/Pic Re: LSD on a 95 Eagle AWD
BRETT_NASHLUND
Bypass check idea
Kevan Riley
1G T Boost beyond control (boost creep)
Ebeid, Nader
Framingham area DSM repair shops
MCCLURE, KATHERINE Toledo, Ohio DSM'ers??
Michael Kline
Funny noises (1G, T), Monte Carlo, 3000GT VR4
Terry Wells
[1G] Quirky Anti-Lock warning light
guillermo_polo
3000GT
james oxley
big 16G
Ryan Noss
oil dipstick/exhaust
Xceler8n
sorry again...
Bob Fischer
1g awd auto ecu
Edan Idzerda
[2G] [T] the longevity issue
Benny Chin
NOS wet system questions. [2G, T]
darren.y.moy
My Bouncing Mail
Croughwell,Scott
poor idle/MAS mods, "Veilside" spoiler
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
Raceway Park,
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 14:36:39 -0600
Subject: 2.5" FWD Exhausts Cheap
Message-ID: <#1>
I don't remember seeing anyone else post anything
about this so I will.
In J.C. Whitney they have Monza 2.5" cat-back
exhausts available for 1st gen FWD T/E/L's. From
the picture in the catalog it looks just like the
HKS unit except for the decal. The price is just
under $140 + shipping.
J. Chris Roth
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 16:18:32 -0500
From: Hector DeLeon <deleonh@db.erau.edu>
Subject: fuel cut question
Message-ID: <#2>
Say your car has a factory fuel cut of 16 psi; does the car hit fuel cut
because it is running lean or just because the fuel cut is set to a
certain level. When my car hits fuel cut, I don't know if its actually
running lean.
[The DSMs fuel-cut at a preset airmass/cyl. The ECU doesn't care if you
are running lean or not at WOT. It is crossing its fingers that you
aren't. -talon mgr]
Hector DeLeon
Conquest
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 15:47:40 +0000
Subject: Turbo upgrade, intercooler [2G]
Message-ID: <#3>
Hi everybody,
I'm looking to upgrade my turbo while the car is being repaired from
the accident . . . I could use some advice. So far, I have three
basic choices: the Mitsu 16G, the Super 60 hybrid upgrade for the stock
T25, or a T3/T4 hybrid that I can get from a local shop. The 16G
has the advantage of being proven technology for the DSMs, but from
what I understand, the installation is quite obviously not stock.
The T25/Super 60 hybrid utilizes the stock housing with both a bigger
turbine (clipped) and compressor . . . looks stock, but only used by
a few people on the list. And, finally, I'm looking at the T3/T4
hybrid because it's *cheap* compared to the T25/Super 60 or the 16G
at only $750. The T3/T4 should also be a bolt-on replacement for the
stock T25, but both the compressor and turbine side of the housing
are both obviously larger than stock.
Any opinions? Has anyone out there had experience with the Garrett
T3/T4 hybrid?
Also, I'm looking for a fender mount intercooler that will perform
better than the stock unit. The dealer wants almost $600 for the
stock replacement, so I have about that much to spend. Recommendations
on vendors appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Scott Borders
'96 Talon TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 17:43:00 -0600 (CST)
From: MDSOG / Ray Parks <mdsog@connecti.com>
Subject: Integrity
Message-ID: <#4>
On 01/10/97 Rick Shindley addressed the list with:
>Fortuitously I had a subsequent conversation with Dave Buschur who
>listened to my story (I called him to order a front motor mount). Dave
>looked up information for me regarding the '94 head. There is nothing
>in the Mitsu literature that refers to "tumble flow porting" on any head
>prior to '95. The only thing the '94 head had that was different was a
>couple of larger exhaust manifold studs, hardly able to provide
>"superior performance".
Now I've got this funny feeling Mr. Buschur was misrepresented here too.
I have the paperwork from the Mitsubishi 1993 Model Engine Technology
Overhall Manual to back up my statement to Mr. Shindley.
There is a note which reads; "Tumble type" intake port for Vertical Vortex
fuel efficiency.
I would be happy to supply Todd with all I have. Mabe Todd can make a
page out of all of this to pervent any other misunderstandings.
[Any updates should be sent to the author of this page
http://www.flash.net/~thoffman/dsm/4g63mods.html -talon mgr]
One last note; Our local Jeep Eagle parts dealer couldn't find the part
number for the loaded head. It shows up only if the correct number is
entered into their system. When they do a search for a cylinder head,
part number MD330615 is not listed. The cylinder head #MD330615 has a
cut off date of late 1992.
Ray
PS. I don't know why but my provider hooked up our service again
last week Wednesday. Sorry if the down time inconvienenced anyone.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 17:08:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: 3000GT vs GSX: House o' Duct Tape Responds!
Message-ID: <#5>
Shawn Dewey of the 3000GT/Stealth Mailing list wrote:
>> The convertible only comes in a GS-T, front wheel drive turbo.....stock
>> probably runs about 15's or 16's. Just drove one of the new '97 GSX's..
>> ...they are dogs. My '91 non-turbo Stealth (with 117K miles) would
>> eat this car alive. I was not at all impressed with the Eclipse.
DSM'ers, 3000GT'ers, and fellow 9 second Honda drivers, lend us your gears!
We come not to bury Shawn Dewey, but to praise him!
The House o' Duct Tape (HoDT) staff hereby throws its support behind
Shawn Dewey in an effort to silence the false words of you
anti-duct-tape-preaching DSM heretics!!
Shawn's analysis is nothing short of insightful! He's right on the
money! Shawn's car can undoubtedly whip a GSX, faster than you can
say "9-second Honda"!!! We at HoDT shall now enlighten you on why
non-turbo '91 3000GT's with 117k miles eat 97 GSX's alive!!
1) As so kindly pointed out by Warren Tsai, there are pictures of
non-turbo 3000GT's at a drag strip. So, what other cars do you find
at drag strips?? 5-second 3000-horsepower dragsters!! Look at the
implications of that statement!! The circumstantial evidence alone
should have you convinced. And, can it even be a co-incidence that
the dragster's 3000 horsepower co-incides with the 3000GT name?
We think not!!! The 91 3000GT NT is obviously a dragster in disguise!
2) As we love to say at HoDT, "Experience is everything!" Which
do YOU think is more experienced, a 117,000 mile 3000GT, or a brand
new GSX!? We always hear about how "experience makes the difference
at the racetrack"... Obviously this is what everyone is talking about!
3) The 3000GT is a much larger car than a tiny DSM. Bigger car = more
surface area on the outside.. And you know what that means... YES!!!
MORE CAPACITY FOR DUCT TAPE!! You can get FAR more duct tape on a
3000GT than a DSM! Duct tape.. Wear it with pride, America!!!
4) Ok, we know this is going to burst a lot of bubbles but the truth
must be told... The all-wheel-drive of the 97 GSX is a recipe for
slowness!!! The 3000GT NT will KILL the GSX off the line!!! Think
about it!! Drop the clutch at 4000rpm on the 3000GT and you may very
well spin those tires (if the engine is up to it!). Do the same on
the GSX and the tires turn very slowly! Well, EVERYONE knows that
if your tires are turning faster than someone else's, you must be
traveling at a higher rate of speed! That's common sense! We'll take
the obviously-faster 3000GT with the rapidly spinning tires, thank you!
5) As you know, the exhaust wheel of a turbo gets in the way of
exhaust flow. A 3000GT NT doesn't have such a restriction! If '91
3000GT's with *two* turbos run mid-to-high 14's at the track, just imagine
how fast the NT will go without the turbo exhaust wheels to slow it
down!!! Man, we are on a roll now! Get it?? "On a roll"?? Ha ha!
Hey, that's a little duct-tape humor folks. Lighten up!
6) Follow the logic! Duct taped Honda's are the Gods of the drag strip,
right? Well, Honda's are normally aspirated. The 3000GT Non-turbo is
normally aspirated. Normal aspiration is a-kin to godhood!! The
first thing any smart GSX owner would do is remove the turbo and be
1-step closer to Honda-ness!!!!
6a) On a side note.. Until the end of the month, we at HoDT will be
offering an upgrade special for DSM owners who have seen the light!!
Get rid of your turbo, and buy just 3 rolls of duct tape (your choice
of colors, textures, and scents), and we'll throw in our
HoDT Box o' Decals with Vitamin E to protect against aging,
absolutely free!!! ***
*** Note: Your choice of duct tape does not include specialty items,
such as our new Chia-Duct-Tape, the tape that grows when it rains!,
or our Exxon Valdez Duct Tape, "The tape that makes you slick!!"
7) Finally, we come to weight.. The 3000GT NT probably weighs a good
300 pounds more than the lighter DSM. Do you understand what this
means?... HA! WRONG!!! But, it's ok, this was a tricky question.
We'd only expect the smartest DSM'ers to get this one, like that
Boosted guy on the East coast who runs 10's with his FWD DSM! Think
really hard now.. In racing, what do they do when a race car is much
faster than the other cars it competes with?? Answer: They add
weight to it!!! Obviously, this is what happened to the 3000GT NT!!
It is so much faster than a GSX, they rewarded the 3000GT by adding a
few hundred more pounds!!
While we know we've more than proved our case (We bet you are looking
at Shawn with new-found respect now, huh??), we feel we should respond
to some really idiotic arguments that a few people have mentioned...
We will take each argument and respond to it with a non-emotional,
analytical commentary where we systematically and logically explain
why we are right and they are wrong.
A) The 3000GT Non-turbo has less horsepower or at the most the
same horsepower (222, 215 same difference), yet it weighs 300+
pounds more. The power-to-weight ratio favors the GSX, big time.
Our Response: Ratio's, shmatio's! Who cares! Quit thinking and
start buying some duct tape from us!
B) The GSX can get all its power to the ground via AWD, the 3000GT
NT can't.
Our Response: Yeah, and your mother smells like race gas!! Shaddup
and buy some duct tape.
C) The 3000GT NT has longer gears and a longer final drive ratio than
the GSX. All else equal, longer gears=slower acceleration.
Our response: Yeah, we hear "longer is better!" What, you short-gear
guys have a Napolean complex or something?! Grow up!! And while
you're at it, it might be smart to buy some duct tape.
D) Stock 3000GT NT's have never gotten near low 15 second 1/4 mile
times. Stock GSX's do that all day long.
Our response: Yeah, and you're so ugly, when a Hyundai with a body
kit and racing stripes cruises by you, it says "Man, YOU'RE ugly!!!"
We don't think it's a problem that a little duct tape wouldn't fix,
however.
To Shawn Dewey: We're with you brother!!! We are officially adopting
you as a HoDT mascot, and we consider you our "special friend". Should
you ever have need of employment, we will always have a respectable
minimum wage job waiting for you here at HoDT, helping us glue chia-seeds
to our new chia-duct-tape. Write us and let us know when you break into
the 9's with your non-turbo 3000GT!!!! Keep the faith, man!!!!
Love,
All the Staff at,
The House o' Duct Tape!
Grins,
Marc S
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 20:22:38 -0500
From: Nick Totoro <ntotoro@mindspring.com>
Subject: Fuel Tank Recall & Stuff...
Message-ID: <#6>
Well... I made reference a while ago that my '95 GSX was running
fine, however my loss in fuel economy might be attributed to the
oxygenated gas used in my area in the Winter. It appears that there are
a few more screwy things occuring.
First of all, I have lately been getting a gasoline stench in the
car only when I fill up the tank. Wasn't the recall supposed to fix a
problem like this? I had no problem with the car before I took it in for
the recall service.
The second is that the fuel gauge is now as queer as a three dollar
bill. When I run almost 30 miles after filling the tank, it says I've
used a quarter of a tank already. When the gauge is on a quarter of a
tank left, I actually have a little under two gallons. Good thing I
happened to stop for gas Saturday... didn't really think I needed it,
though.
Regardless, the car is soon to be history. She qualifies as a lemon
under the state of Virginia's lemon law act and will be in my possession
for not much longer. Needing front brake work four times before the car
reached 24k miles is bad enough. Safety-related items are to only take
one session in the shop for the manufacturer to fix, not four. This is
among other things, of course. I am currently undergoing the process
under which Mitsubishi motors must purchase the car back from me,
accounting for useage, etc.
Maybe I just happened to purchase a bad model. I've driven no other
DSM's, so I have nothing against which to compare/contrast it, but I
have seen several complaints on the NHTSA's website for troubled rotors
which shows that the manufacturer has done nothing to ameliorate the
situation. I want to thank you all in the past year-and-a-half who have
helped me and wish you all luck in future endeavors with your DSM's.
Thanks, again...
Nick
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 20:46:54 -0500
From: Jon Bennett <jcrb@fore.com>
Subject: Re: dsm help page/shadetree page
Message-ID: <#7>
>I'm also getting names from folks who know performance shops, or guys who
>work through dealerships. Here's what I'm going to do - and if anyone else
>has a better idea - fire away.
>
>I'm putting in two categories:
..
..
>If you are affiliated w/a dealer - forget it. nana. nope. zip. sorry - your
>buddy x may be a great mechanic for them, but you've still dealing with
>'satan'.
Pete,
I think you may be a little over zealous here, a total ban on
dealers will lose some potentialy useful sites. Like I found out the reason
that my local dealer does not give me shit about my mods is that they used
to sponsor (by way of doing work at discounted prices) a DSM in SCCA pro
rally!
Last time I went in the parts manager was happy to engage in a discussion
about
the feasibility of puting 3000VR4 brakes on a 2nd gen car, "so you want some
four piston calipers hun?". Just cause they do it for a living does not always
mean they are scum.....
I am only realy making this argument because the dealer repair shop
page is dead. (Hey Dong Shin if you still have the page mail it to me,
I'll put it up...)
jon
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 17:57:15 -0800
Subject: Windshield drool
Message-ID: <#8>
Victor C wrote:
> For anyone with a 1995 DSM you may notice that your windshield washer
> nozzles dribble. There is a TSB regarding this problem (TSB080795).
My 95 has the problem, and it has damaged (spotted the paint) all around
the nozzles...I'll probably mention it to them when I take it in for the
other 6 things on the list (mainly noises). It'd be nice if for once
the dealer would say when I was in for some other service: "Hey, we
noticed you have a problem with fluid leaking out of the winshield fluid
nozzle...we went ahead and fixed the problem for you as the TSB
suggests..." but I doubt I'll ever see the day.
~Mike
95 Tsi
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 19:32:22 -0800
From: Richard Silva <resilva@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Los Angeles DSMers???
Message-ID: <#9>
Snoopy-Boy,
The only shop in L.A. that has worked on my car other then the dealer
or myself is "RPS". They are located in Chatsworth just 25 min. north
of downtowm L.A. If you decide to call them ask for Rob Smith. He's the
owner and creator of RPS and the "RPS Turbo Clutch". Their number is
(818) 993-9174 they should be able to help with your turbo problem.
They're also the only people I trust with my car. You can also try
"Imagine Motors" if you want and ask for Ken Frakes the owner; he might
be a little pricy. Hope this helps. Sorry for the short post gotta run.
Richard Silva
93' Talon Tsi
So. California DSM member
-----------------------------Date:
Mon, 13 Jan 1997 19:26:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Turbo Eating Foreign Objects/Power Loss(Hi Boost)
Message-ID: <#10>
For those people who had problems with their 16G turbine blades being
damaged or bend due to some rubber pieces from the filter hose being sucked
into the turbo:
Some of you told me that you have the same power loss problems at WOT and
flushed the intercooler to free it from the debris?
One of the mechanics (not dealer) told me that it might be the BOV not
being able to handle the 16G at 1.2 Bar, does anyone who own a 1G AWD
that is equipped with a 16G able to run 1.2, 1.3 with the stock BOV??
Or should I discard the possibilitiy altogether.
Also, is it possible to remove the turbocharger without dismantling the
manifold/turbine hosing etc? I was thinking of removing the 16G and
putting a stock one back on while I send the 16G for repair...IS IT
REPAIRABLE in the first place?
I am still looking for some good shops in Los Angeles to send my car to
fixed all this mess. Anyone with ideas ,thanks.
Des.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 20:27:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Dave Fong <Dave@lazarus.com>
Subject: [2G,T] Infinity CD Player + CD-R
Message-ID: <#11>
>CD player in my 96 Talon skips about 20% of the sound on any CD-R
>disc that I have tried on it. Since I have discovered the problem, I
>have tried CD-Rs in as many CD players (car and otherwise) that I can get
>my hands on. So far, only the Talon skips and stalls.
I think I know what your problem is! I have the same problem with my 1G. I
have several CD-R's and I could not figure out why some CD's work in my car
and some don't. The cheapest CD-R I have will work and all my other ones
don't. What I found out was that My cars CD Player is only a 1x sampling
rate player and I have been recording in 2x. My cheapo pinacle (garbage)
will only record in 1x sample rate and it works fine in my car. The other
ones if I record in 1x sampling rate will work in my car.
Bottom line try recording in 1x sampling rate.
Dave
[Uhhhh... The "1x, 2x, etc" refers to the rate of data transfer, not the
"sampling rate", which is frozen at 44.1kHz for a CD. Typically, the reason
that a disc will play in one player but not another is that the center hole
is not really punched on center and some CD players can tolerate more offset
error than others. -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 11:00:38 -0500
Subject: Misc questions answered - Long
Message-ID: <#12>
Arman:
>>How can i tell if an Eagle AWD has LSD option?
You can easily tell if your car has an LSD by raising both rear tires off
the ground and rolling one of the tires forward. If the other tire rolls
forward too, you have a LSD, if it turns in reverse, you don't... Also, on
the 1st gens (and I presume the 2nd gens) there is a fairly visible tag on
the back of the differential that you can see from behind the car.
[This is also a good test to see if your LSD is blown. -talon mgr]
Rusty Chappell:
>>I have seen a few cars in pictures with the hose going from the Blow Off
>>valve to the intake pipe removed. Is this mostly for effect (sound, looks) or
>>does this serve a purpose? any drawbacks to this setup?
The purpose of this mod is to allow the turbo to spin-up faster between
shifts. This mod can be done with good results if you have a VPC or PMS,
but without those electronics, the idle quality suffers to the point where
some cars won't even idle. There has been much discussion about this
problem (for those of us with the stock MAS) on the digest recently, that
you will probably want to read for a better understanding. The WAIS search
tool is Extremely Valuable when searching the archives for topics like
this. Don't do this mod if you don't have a firm understanding of all the
ramifications. Email me for more detailed info if you need it.
>>I cleaned out my intercooler today and noticed a large amount of oil along
>>the intake path. I figure it will reduce now that I have flushed the
>>intercooler thoroughly but I wanted to know if a little oil along the path is
>>acceptable?
A little oil (vapor, but not a pint of fluid) is acceptable. If you trace
the rubber hose that is connected to the pass-side of your valve cover,
you'll see that oil vapor from the valve cover is directed to the turbo
inlet hose (air cleaner to turbo). Large amounts of oil in the intercooler
indicate more serious problems like the turbo oil seal. Many people
eliminate this issue by adding a small K&N to the end of the valve cover
and capping the turbo inlet connection. You will probably find a film of
oil in the upper intercooler hose as well.
Jason Inzer:
>>I have read in the past that some folks have upgraded the 90-93 years
>>front brakes with the similar year brakes from a Stealth/3000GT. What
>>EXACTLY is needed from the salvaged car?? Rotors, calipers, pads....
>>what else??
When I did my brake upgrade, I got the Calipers and Brackets from a 92
3000GT SL.with 22k miles. I think someone told me that you don't actually
need the brackets, but I'd guess most salvage yards include them as "part"
of the calipers. I paid $85 each for mine. If you buy used rotors be sure
you have them turned and buy new high performance pads before you install
everything. You don't have to replace the brake line. If you happen to
have 17" wheels, a few members have gone with the 3000GT VR-4 MONSTER
Brakes! I think that some have had to grind a bit of material off the back
of the caliper though -- depending upon their exact wheels. Oh yeah,
you'll want to put some better brake fluid in the system when you put
everything back together. I'm using ATE Super Blue - Gary Selph's
recommendation, although I don't have the same opportunity to REALLY use it
that he does (130 - 40? lap after lap on road courses).
Hope this helps,
Damian Sigman
91 Talon AWD
90 Eclipse GSX (For Sale)
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 00:49:21 -0500 ()
From: Aaron Whitney <whitneac@jmu.edu>
Subject: Compression [1g, T]
Message-ID: <#13>
Well I had my compression checked and it turns out
that cylinder two is down around 125. The other three are
at 150+. My question is how much is this hurting my
performance? I ran at the track the week after and ran at
103.5, which seemed good, but it was my first time at the
track so that tells me nothing. I am wondering if it is
worth the $550+ dollars to fix the rings? Is one low
cylinder robbing me of significant power? 5, 10, 15 hp or
can it even be quantified?
Sorry for all the question marks but I have no idea
how much power I am being robbed of.
Thanks in advance!!
Aaron
91 Turbo Sport Intercooled
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 23:06:04 +0000
From: "Merritt, Sam (S.)" <Sam.Merritt.merritts@nt.com>
Subject: Car for Sale???
Message-ID: <#14>
Folks,
I never thought I would say this, but I am seriously considering selling
my car. It's time to modify another car. The specifics are as follows:
Fully loaded 1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX (black) -- 45,000 miles
~-Modifications include:
~---Eibach progressive rate springs
~---Suspension Techniques swaybars (front and rear)
~---16"x7.5" Momo Evolution rims (chrome)
~---Centerforce Dual Friction clutch
~---K&N air filter w/open canister
~---NGK plugs (one heat range cooler than stock)
~---160 degree thermostat
~---Extreme Motorsports one-piece intercooler pipe (2.25" diameter)
~---2.5" mandrel bent downpipe
~---2.5" catalytic converter and test pipe
~---2.5" HKS cat-back exhaust
~---Boost Blaster set @ 21lbs at the dragstrip
~---Small 16G, clipped and ported
~---7cm exhaust housing
~---Ported 1995 exhaust manifold
The car is extremely strong for the limited amount of mods done running
12.3 @ 111 in the 1/4-mile. The car is in great shape--just needs new
tires.
I have seen completely stock '94 GSX's listed in the $14,000-$15,000
range. I was thinking of selling for $17,000 or best offer. Is this a
decent price? Please respond directly to me at
merritts@americasm01.nt.com.
Also, if anyone is interested in making an offer ($17,000 is not firm,
it's negotiable) or desires more information, respond to the address
above.
Regards, Sam.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 13 Jan 1997 23:28:15 -0700 (MST)
From: RYAN DENKE <ICEBABE@UWYO.EDU>
Subject: [1G, NT] Got my new engine
Message-ID: <#15>
I received my new engine today. A nice, shiny, brand new non-turbo engine
from Archer. Should have it installed in the next few days. Just over
$1200 after shipping - another 500-600 should have it installed. I guess
it could have been worse.
FOR SALE:
I got my old '91 non turbo engine with 85k miles on it. The Timing belt
jumped when the blancer belt came apart. Amount of damage is unknown.
If anyone is interested, let me know. Shipping will be around $150, +-$25
(probably), so figure that in your offer. I'll also consider parting it out
because I really don't think anyone's gonna want this anyway... The valve
covers are in good shape, and I don't know what else you might be interested
in, but let me know soon and I'll bet I can get it for you. Call me at
307-766-7635.
Ryan
('91 Talon NT, *New* engine, recently rebuilt transmission - Hey, it's a new car
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 01:23:57 -0800 (PST)
From: "J. Hayden" <jhayden@u.washington.edu>
Subject: [2G] Electric Antenna
Message-ID: <#16>
Has anybody replaced the antenna that feeds into the antenna motor? I
installed one the other day and the new antenna does not feed all the way
back in upon turning off the key or radio. Just about 2 inches still
stick out after motor finishes "reeling" it in? Any ideas?
Hey I wonder how fast Dan Lee sold his 95 TSI AWD. It must have gone fast
at that price (13,999). If only the wife liked these cars as much as me I
would have pursued that deal!
Jim
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 08:02:36 -0600
Subject: Alarm Disable Question (1G,T,AWD)
Message-ID: <#17>
Hey gang,
after waking up my neighbors for the 3rd time in the last month at 5:30
a.m., I've decided to semi-permanently disable my factory alarm on my
91 Talon TSi AWD. What happens is that I can put the key in the door
or hatch on a cold morning (10-15 F), the doors unlock, and the alarm
goes off. Put the key back in the door and it shuts it off fine.
Tried pulling the fuse last night under the dash. It disabled the
horn, but the alarm still operated, i.e. the lights flashed. However,
this also disabled the horn completely (then what is the f%%$&*ing horn
fuse for?!?!?!). I then tried pulling the relay under the dash....
system still worked. I then tried all permutations of this.....same
effect.
I'm sure I'm not the only out there who's had this problem.....ideally,
is there an easy fix for the bad alarm problem, or how do I disable the
alarm without disabling the horn?
Thanks in advance,
Frank W.
91 Talon TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 09:11:48 -0500
From: APALMER@maila.harris.com (APALMER)
Subject: [1G,T,AWD] Worn Center Shaft
Message-ID: <#18>
Hi All,
I'm in the process of dropping a new Centerforce in my '92 AWD
Talon, and I pulled it all apart last night. Turns out my flywheel
was shot, but thanks to Archer, I should have one here early today
for half of what the dealer wanted!
Anyway, when I pulled the transmission, I noticed a lot of wear on
the splines of the shaft running from the transmission to the
transfer case (Center Shaft). The gear it fits into in the transfer
case is also noticably worn... about 50% of the metal is gone.
Has anyone noticed similar wear on their car? I've got over 80K
miles, and since there is no lubrication in the bellhousing, I can
see why this wear might occur. However, I'm at a loss as to how to
prevent it from getting any worse.
The center shaft is pretty expensive, so my question is this: If
the splines wear totally and let go, my AWD would become FWD. What
effect would this have on my viscous center diff? Would I have any
warning, or would I fry it in no time? I'm not sure if the risk is
big enough to justify replacing the shaft now.
I'd greatly apprecite any advice! Thanks
Alex Palmer
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 08:50:37 -0600
Subject: Tranny problems [1g,AT,NT]
Message-ID: <#19>
I managed to put the tranny back together and I now have only 1 gear
and neutral. I am not sure which pair of pins in the diagnostic connector
are for the transmission control unit. The tranny manual shows the
connector for a gallant with the same tranny.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 09:04:58 -0600
Subject: Poor/Low Idle
Message-ID: <#20>
>I would like some input on the 'ol subject of poor idle. my 90 AWD has
>been idling around 500-600rpm, 700 w/ A/C on.
Jason,
Just for kicks, have you looked at the order of your vacuum
hoses on the top portion of your TB? The correct order of these
hoses is as follows:
Windshield
Green Striped
Red Striped
-then on the front sideYellow Striped
Solid Black
Turbo
The two on top were switched on my 90 Talon AWD which causes the
EGR to remain open at all times instead of only at cold start
idle.
You may also want to check for a larger vacuum hose that runs
from the intake hose between the Turbo and MAF. There will be
two hose that are connected at the same place on the intake hose
one on top of the other. One hose runs to the valve cover to
relieve oil pressure in case your PCV valve in your valve cover
fails. The other hose runs to a valve just under the battery
tray, this is also termed a PCV something or another. The
letters represent something totally different than the
aforementioned PCV on the valve cover. Anyway, follow the one
that goes under the battery tray and make sure it is connected.
Mine came off during one of my 'modding' attempts and it caused
the car to run slightly leaner at idle, enough to keep the A/F
gauge from lighting at all during idle.
Hope this helps
Robert
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 10:19:13 -0500 (EST)
From: CW31@LNS62.LNS.CORNELL.EDU
Subject: Headliner Repair Procedure
Message-ID: <#21>
If your headliner fabric has separated from its fiber board backing then
read on for a simple repair.
First inspect the orgional fabric for excessive stretching, tears, fading, etc.
If its in good shape then you can reuse it. Otherwise you can order new fabric
from an automotive accessory or upholstry shop. Typical cost is <$20. You will
also need a can of spray adhesive which you can buy from the same store or
your friendly hardware store.
Remove the headliner by removing the trim and clips which hold it in place.
Carefully peel off the old fabric and clean any remaining debris (mostly
old glue, fabric fuzz) from the fiber backer using a dry stiff bristle brush
(coarse sandpaper and steel wool would probably work O.K.). Vacuum or blow
off
remaining dust.
Once the board is clean and smooth apply two moderately heavy coats of spray
adhesive. Let each coat set for 5 minutes.
Carfully position the fabric on the board and starting from one edge press
the fabric onto the adhesive (alignment is less critical if you are using new
fabric). Stretch the fabric just enough to remove the wrinkles.
If using new fabric then trim the excess from the edges using an X-acto blade.
Reinstall the headliner.
Happy boosting,
Curt
-----------------------------Date: 14 Jan 97 10:28:49 EDT
Subject: Re: LSD on a 95 Eagle AWD
Message-ID: <#22>
Arman Nikzad wrote:
>How can i tell if an Eagle AWD has LSD option?
To find out if the car has LSD or not, check on the door frame or on the back
of the rear differential for stickers. They should be there.
Mechanically, if you lift your car and turn one of the rear wheels, other rear
wheel will turn in
the same direction if you have LSD. With standard differential, other wheel
will turn in opposite
direction.
Hope this help
Fedja
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 07:44:36 -0700
Subject: Bypass check idea
Message-ID: <#23>
I was watching a show on indycars last night, and they showed an
interesting little device hooked up to their blowoff valves. Evidently,
the drivers have a small tube connected into their helmet from the bypass
that starts to whistle slightly just before the valve opens. I thought
this might be a nice little deal to setup for testing anyways.
which leads me to this question:
When we shift, the cars go into vaccuum. i seem to generate about 20in/hg
of vaccuum. Would crushing the bypass valve even farther (so it doesn't
open at all under vaccuum) improve spool between shifts???
Food for thought... See you all at the shootout. (Especially you hank...
We got a bet right???) ;)
Brett
95REDTSi
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 10:01:12 -0600
Subject: 1G T Boost beyond control (boost creep)
Message-ID: <#24>
Greetings Fellow DSMers,
Problem: I installed a 2.5" down pipe and test pipe last week. I
have a 16G 'sport' turbo, K&N no silencer, the usual stuff. Oh the test
pipe connects to a HKS cat-back. Boost build extreemly fast now, and
that is great, but, now I have boost creep, or more precisesly
uncontrollable boost. Unless you count fuel-cut as a means of boost
control. I searched throuogh Wais and found it to be a common problem,
but not too many solutions. BTW my bleeder valve is all the way closed,
I have been breaking in a new CFDF. I even unpluged the BCS to make
sure there was no bleeding of the signal at all. No change. I wouldn't
mind as bad except that it goes way up to 17, 18, and higher, untill i
get off or hit fuel-cut. The RPM that boost runs off is between 4000
and 5000, I am not able to get much beyond 5000 at WOT before Fuel-Cut.
What do I do to fix it. Does porting the exhaust side (and waste gate)
of the turbo fix, or reduce the problem into a managable level? If not,
what about machining a hole in the wastegate area and adding a dump tube
to the wastegate? I definately can race with it this way.
Please help. BTW before I installed the down pipe and test pipe, that
is with the stock down pipe and Cat, I had no such problem AT ALL.
`91 Red Talon AWD
Kevan
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 10:59:45 -0500
From: "Ebeid, Nader" <nader.ebeid@FMR.COM>
Subject: Framingham area DSM repair shops
Message-ID: <#25>
Hi,
I was wondering if anyone in, or near, the Framingham (Mass) area could
recommend a shop for DSM repairs and service. Actually, I wouldn't mind
traveling for the right place (anywhere in the Boston area or central
Mass). I'm trying to find someone who is knowledgeable and honest.
Reasonable prices would also be nice, but I don't mind paying for
quality work and an honest mechanic. If you know of a shop, a person,
or if you do this type of work, please let me know. I'm having a
terrible time finding someone who I can trust to service my car.
Especially when it comes to any thing out of the ordinary for some time
trials and club events that I'm starting to do
Thanks,
Nader Ebeid
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 97 11:05:53 EST
From: "MCCLURE, KATHERINE" <KMcClure@PO.tiffin.edu>
Subject: Toledo, Ohio DSM'ers??
Message-ID: <#26>
I just moved up to Toledo, Ohio and have seen quite a few
Eclipse/Laser/Talons around town. Any of them owned by people on this
list? I was quite impressed by an owner of a Eagle Talon who got
blocked in, in the parking lot of my apartment building. The
manuverbility of both the car and driver was very impressive. Let me
know if any of you live in Toledo, Ohio.
Thanks
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 11:24:10 -0500
From: mkline@kta.com (Michael Kline)
Subject: Funny noises (1G, T), Monte Carlo, 3000GT VR4
Message-ID: <#27>
Hey everyone. I've got a couple of questions for you.
1) When I'm turning left and also when I'm backing up with the wheel cut
to the right, I hear a strange clicking noise. It sounds like one of the
front tires is rubbing against a piece of loose plastic. I've looked under
the car and checked the plastic around the wheel wells, but nothing seems
to be loose. Since its been so cold recently and I don't have a nice car
jack or a heated garage, I haven't really given it a thorough look
underneath. Anyone have any ideas about what it could be?
2) This past weekend, after a spirited burst of speed to pass a Prelude
and some idiot in a Sunfire, I was stopped at a light when this guy pulled
up behind me in a heavily modded, mid-80's era, Monte Carlo and started
revving his engine. I guess he wanted to show me a thing or two about fast
cars. Unfortunately, we were in the left lane of a road that merges into a
one lane road, and the right lane has to turn right, so no racing was going
to happen. Being the obvious big man that he is </sarcasm>, he started
revving his engine really high and then smoking the rear tires, WHILE
STANDING COMPLETELY STILL. He never even moved forward. I know
because I
was watching him in case he lurched forward so I could try to move before
he demolished my rear end. Him and his passenger seemed to be delightfully
enjoying the prospect of buying two new rear tires, because they were
laughing as the driver was doing this. My question is, how did he do this?
How could he sit still and smoke his tires? I have some ideas about how
one might accomplish this, but nothing concrete. Anyone care to tell me?
3. Coming into work this morning I passed a 3000GT VR4. Black, very sharp
looking. Better yet, there was this incredibly gorgeous woman driving it.
Of course, being married, I couldn't exactly do something silly to get her
attention, even if she did follow me into the office park where I work.
Oh well, life goes on. Maybe I can get my wife to buy a 3000GT and drive
it around......
L8R,
Michael Kline
'90 Talon TSi AWD
Pittsburgh
IRC Nickname "PaintMan"
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 08:39:04 PST
From: Terry Wells <twells@cp10.es.xerox.com>
Subject: [1G] Quirky Anti-Lock warning light
Message-ID: <#28>
Hi,
Has anyone ever figured out why the Anti-Lock warning light comes on
(solid) while you're driving and won't go out until you power cycle the
car?
In the 5+ years that I've had my '91 Talon AWD, the light has
mysteriously come on at least 6 times. Often, these events are
separated by as much as a year.
There do not seem to be any particular factors that contribute to the
event. I'll simply be driving in a straight line around 35 miles an
hour and the light comes on. Air temp has been variable, but it's never
been raining.
Once I shut down the car and restart it, the light goes out and stays
out for another year or so.
Since the event happens so infrequently, I have been unable to test
whether the performance of the Anti-Lock brakes has been affected while
the light is on.
There is no mention of this situation in the shop manual. The only
situation it covers is a blinking light which indicates low battery
power.
I have tried to read a code from the ECU, but only after a power cycle.
Once the light is out, no error code is reported.
I'm really curious about this. If anyone else has seen this and been
able to capture an error code, I'd really like to know what is going on.
Thanks much,
Terbo
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 10:05:08 -0700
From: guillermo_polo <gpolo@ogre.phx.mcd.mot.com>
Subject: 3000GT
Message-ID: <#29>
>I don't really agree with this fight over which car is the best. I believe
>that he(Shawn) was not impressed with the car because the 222hp
>version(non-turbo) is a lot more responsive than eclipses/talon turbos (no
>lag).
>But I do believe that the eclipse will keep up with it if not pass it. I
>also believe the top speed on the 222hp is well over 145mph (because there
>are some people with the non-turbo version that did it).
What??? I don't think a non turbo 222HP Stealth or 3000GT will do 145MPH's.
I used to own a 93 240SX that ran 15.7's off the bottle and I have a friend
with a 92 222HP Stealth. He swore up and down that he could beat my 240SX
and at the time I got my car I wasn't sure so we raced, about 5 times, I
beat him by 3 to 4 car lengths up to 90MPH or so every time. After 90 MPH's
it was over, the second I shifted to fourth my car would just pull on his
like he wasn't even trying. His best time at the track was a 16.1 at 86
MPH's. Mine on that car off the bottle was a 15.7 at 87.6 MPH's. By the way
I now own a 95GSX that ran a 14.8 at 90 to 91 MPH's, bone stock, it now
runs 13.3's. With the GSX bone stock I had him by about 15 car lengths to
90 MPH's. On another note his car could not do better than about 138 on a
trip to California, the only way it could do 145 would be on a downhill. I
don't mean to offend anyone, but non-turbo Stealth's and 3000GT's are dogs,
too heavy and not enough traction. By the way in case anyone is wondering
if this Stealth was unusually slow, he raced several other 222HP Stealths,
never mind those 160HP ones, and he lost some and won some but they were
always close races. Just my 2 cents.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 12:22:02 -0800
Subject: big 16G
Message-ID: <#30>
Does the big 16G look like a small 16G or a 20G?
OX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 12:49:52 -0500
From: Ryan Noss <rcn110@psu.edu>
Subject: oil dipstick/exhaust
Message-ID: <#31>
Yesterday I took my '90 Plymouth Laser Turbo to the dealer to have
the recall done on the O2 sensor. They told me that they could do the
timing belt recall to even though I had 120,000 miles on the car and I had
also had the timing belt break and bend all of my valves. When I got the
car back, the oil dipstick keeps popping up and splashing oil everywhere. I
know this has been talked about in the past...but I need help. I took it
back to the dealer this morning and the mechanic couldn't find anything
wrong with it. I had just put a new PVC valve on about a month ago and I
know its not that. I'm running about 15 lbs. of boost with the usual free
mods and a K&N. Also after getting my car back, its is about 3 times louder
than it was before. It had a hole in the flex section of the downpipe, but
it is not that big. What could cause this? Its really loud between
shifts....it almost doesn't sound like its coming from the exhaust.
Also, I was going to get a 2.5" downpipe and 2.5" press bent exhaust
and get rid of the cat. I was going to get the 2.5" Dynomax Ultraflow
muffler, and I wondered if anyone knew if this would sound good and get the
biggest bang for the buck without being too loud.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Ryan Noss
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 09:50:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: sorry again...
Message-ID: <#32>
Jonathan Chiem, I tried Todd's suggestion about your email address @ieee....
Email me if still interested.
Anthony
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 11:06:10 -0700
Subject: 1g awd auto ecu
Message-ID: <#33>
Hi all!!
Just a quick question regarding the ecu.
If you disconnect the TPS does this cause the ECU to use default settings
for the TPS input or does the whole ECU go into default? If you haven't
followed my posts I'm having probs with power loss and erratic shifting
(auto tranny). well, I checked the voltage at the TPS and it was off a
little so I adjusted it to .5 volts. I then checked the resistance thru its
travel and found that it didn't correspond to what the chiltons says. So
out of curiosity I disconnected it and have been driving it for a couple of
days. Wow, what a difference!!!
So now I just need to make sure that the ECU is substituting only the TPS
signals, if this is the case then it looks like the TPS is bad, if not then
it must be sensor problem somewhere.
any insite would definately be appreciated
[The only thing you are really missing out on is the extra juice you
get when press on the throttle, but the engine hasn't caught up yet.
The ECU can infer most everything else. Oddly enough, the first gens
won't even light the CHECK ENGINE light for a bad TPS sensor.
-talon mgr]
Bob Fischer
irc: Tsibob
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 14:01:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Edan Idzerda <edan@mtu.edu>
Subject: [2G] [T] the longevity issue
Message-ID: <#34>
I am in search of the truth, the one truth, :) about the cost of
owning a DSM, in particular second generation Talon Tsi AWDs.
The Talon digest archives have been helpful, but it's been very
much like digging for gold--there are many bright shiny nuggets,
but there's also a whole lot of rock (at least for me) :)
Basically, I'm interested in how these cars run for Joe Average.
What things break under normal use? Am I guaranteed to need a
new transmission at 90k, and does everybody go through two (or three)
clutches before that point as well?
I've really got my heart set on one, but I'm not entirely
convinced that they're built to last. I love driving, mind
you, but I don't really love throwing money away. If I
turn into a big Buschur Racing customer--fine, my costs go
up, but how do these cars hold up to day-to-day "spirited"
driving?
So, if anyone can share with me what their experience has been
with these cars at non-launching, under-90-psi-of-boost
driving, I'd really appreciate it. If people want to send
me a rough guess at what kinds of major maintenance they've
had to perform (and when), I'd be more than happy to summarize
to the list for the common good.
Please, help me justify this to myself! It's the only
sports car I know of that makes sense when you get 300+" of
snow a year! (I can't afford a 911 Turbo.)
Thanks a lot!
~ edan
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 12:16:30 -0700 (MST)
From: Benny Chin <bchin@evergreen.com>
Subject: NOS wet system questions. [2G, T]
Message-ID: <#35>
Hello all,
Finally got a NOS system for my '95 GS-T. Stock number 5208. Now I have
the following questions.
~Where is the negative terminal of the coil? (for the RPM switch uses)
~I know I can "T" the fuel hose to get the fuel, but is that a way to get
the fuel from the top of the fuel filter? (that will look much better)
~What sizes should I use for the fuel jet and N2O jet? (I only need around
50HP to start with)
~Finally, can someone just give me some sugguestions on installing the NOS
system and somethings that I need to beaware of.
Thanks in advance.
~Benny '95 GS-T white (http://ivy.evergreen.com/jack)
-----------------------------Date: 14 Jan 97 13:12:30
Subject: My Bouncing Mail
Message-ID: <#36>
Good Day All:
My apologies for:
1) Bouncing mail sent to me at work
2) Multiple mail sent from me at work
My mail server at work, Andersen Consulting, has been more temperamental
than
Joe's PMS during the last week or so.
You would think the world's largest consulting firm would have a stable mail
server!
Speaking of work, does anyone out there need a job doing computer stuff? I'd
be more than happy to refer a fellow DSM / VR4er to my employer.
DM, '95 GSX
Darren.Y.Moy@ac.com
or
Comfrt@pipeline.com
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 11:38:58 -0800
Subject: poor idle/MAS mods, "Veilside" spoiler
Message-ID: <#37>
Hey all>my 90 AWD has been idling around 500-600rpm, 700 w/ A/C on. I noticed it
>shortly after i did the MAS mods. I have now reset the MAS to stock and it
>hasn't help much at all!
I don't think the mods to your MAS are the "real" problem. I don't know
about the 1GT, but on the 2GT, ISC function isn't performed if the MAS
is screwed up. Since your A/C is upping the idle to 700 rpm, the ISC
appears to be working, and indicates that there's nothing seriously
wrong with the MAS. (Other than this, I don't have any suggestions for
your rough idle... sorry!)
>behold a '95-96 eclipse with a veilside spoiler
Yea dude, driving to my parents' house for Christmas I raced a white or
silver Eclipse with this Veilside-looking spoiler on the 210W fwy. I
kicked his/her butt, but damn, that was a nice spoiler. The extra wind
resistance probably slowed them down ;-) I did some research and found
that RAZO makes them. They are quite popular around here in Orange
County, CA.
>I cleaned out my intercooler today and noticed a large amount of oil along
>the intake path.
This happens because some of the engine oil travels down that rubber
hose that attaches from the valve cover to the intercooler plumbing. A
non smog-legal cure for this is to remove the rubber hose, cork up the
intercooler plumbing, and put a K&N on the valve cover nipple. (The K&N
will soak up the engine oil, so you probably won't ever have to clean or
re-oil it.)
>So do you guys think that the remanufactured tires are worth the price or
>should I get the original tires?
No no no no no! Here in CA, where there's no saftey inspection, I have
many-a-mark on my airdam from running over bits and pieces of radial
retreads. (Unless you only drive your car on-to and off-of a trailer I
guess.)
>I don't think his great mileage comes from drafting, but from driving at the
>speed limit.
Ok, when I was 19, I had this 1964 Impala. Granted, it's no sleek,
swift, sexy DSM, but when I drafted an 18 wheeler real good (by "good" I
mean 2 or 3 feet off the back bumper) I got GREAT mileage. When not
drafting a truck, I got lousey mileage, also driving the speed limit. I
was afraid that if I pushed my 140 hp L6 over 55 mph that something
would blow. (FYI it had 140 hp @ 2200 rpm, 200 ft-lbs @ 1800 rpm, and a
Powerglide tranny.)
>It looks like a Fram HP1 (or similar) would go right in. This should be less
>restrictive, and trap more dirt due to the larger surface area.
Ok, as a DSM nut, I can attest that bigger is not always better. Just
ask my ex girlfriend. Just kidding. I tested oils, filters, and
gasolines on remanufactured Chrysler 2.2L 4 bangers. (They were out of
the K series cars.) The larger oil filters such as the PH1 took longer
to fill with fresh oil on cold starts and dry starts. I'm sure this
alone was the primary factor in the relatively extreme engine wear of
the 2 of the 4 mills with the PH1. The other 2 had Bosch filters from
the Suzuki Swift (tiny). The oil pressure was the same as the engines
with the FRAM filters but would build from 0 to full pressure MUCH
faster when cold starting. None of the filters even came close to being
"full" of engine grit/fallout even after putting well over 20,000
simulated miles on them. So for me the moral of the story was, in the
case of oil filters, use the smallest that will fit. I like the new,
smaller Mitsubishi filters. And Castrol makes the best dino oil. Mobil
and Unocal gasoline have the highest SG. (In 1994 anyway.)
>Although I can hear the increased air being sucked in when the stock gauge
>reads any positive boost, my aftermarket boost gauge and PMS show no
>boost at the time. This is when my car runs FULL RICH.
Isn't this an indicator that you're losing boost somewhere between the
MAF and throttle body? The MAF "counts" the incoming air, supplies the
fuel, gives the stock boost gauge a reading, but doesn't "know" that the
boost isn't making it to your combustion chambers. (I don't have any
experience with the PMS BTW.)
Hope all that is helpful,
------------------------------
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id TAA22134
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 12:00:05 -0800
Sender: owner-talon
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) Scott Borders
Info on Garrett turbos
2) Mike Cornwell
Battle of the Imports photos
3) gselph
Interesting turbo stuff
4) Michael Kline
The Talon of a friend
5) Benny Chin
Comments on remanufactured tires
6) Chris Burton
foglights vs performance
7) RPavsner
Suspension In for '97 Season [1g,T, awd] & FL Auto
8) Tom Stangl
Burning out without moving
9) Troy Jollimore
1G,T, AWD, FYI, RSVP, SOS, FUBAR...
10) JimFoss
Re:Fuel-cut and then some - need help!
11) smanders
Various ?'s
stock replacement IC
13) MDSOG / Ray Parks RE:unhappy customer, the other side of the story
14) Vel Natarajan
TAD Motorsports (was: repairs)
15) Prjtrev
Turbo's & Parts 4 sale.
16) Chung-Hun (Scott) Ki Tires & noises
17) Dave Campbell
Re: 2.5" FWD Exhausts Cheap
18) Pete
shadetree page - dealers?
19) Stephen Mcdonnell MAS Porting....Broken speedo
20) Bob Fischer
1g awd auto ECU
21) james oxley
rwd burnouts/NOS tips-questions/boost creep/HODT
22) Christian Boglivi 91' Eclipse For Sale
23) Jon L. Peccarelli '97 AWD badging question
24) SPR741
Wanted:
25) Jason Lanstra
Long awaited update
26) Jason Lanstra
Peeling dash, sub woofer in spare (ALL)
27) Damian_Sigman
Factory Alarm Fix
28) M3GTVR4
<2G> Greddy Turbo Timer installation tip
29) gelph
Turbo bog (AT)
30) Kyle Munz
re:smoking tires
31) The4Bangr
Lots of stuff
32) Alex Okun
[1G,T] 2.5" Ultraflow; Fixes for dipstick and oil
33) Thomas Harrington [2G T] Cold weather starting, brake fluid and rad
34) Tom Stangl
Mike SUCKS!!!
35) Smokin
White 2nd Gen Eclipse
36) John Snodgrass
Car for Sale (Last Chance)
37) Tome
turbo pricing
38) lionel@hcl.com
smoking tires standing still
39) Vel Natarajan
Re: Alarm Disable Question (1G,T,AWD)
40) Kevin Kiwon Park
WANTED: HEADERS FOR NON-TURBO
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 14:48:51 +0000
Subject: Info on Garrett turbos
Message-ID: <#1>
Check out http://www.alliedsignal.com . . . Allied Signal
manufactures Garrett turbos, and their website has a lot of basics on
turbocharger theory, diagrams, construction, etc.
I'm not affiliated with Garrett in anyway; I just ran across this
site while trying to research the turbo upgrade for my '96 Talon.
Enjoy,
Scott Borders
'96 Talon TSi AWD (currently recuperating from an accident)
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Tue, 14 Jan 97 13:14:22
"Mike Cornwell" <mcornwell@abtechsys.com>
Subject: Battle of the Imports photos
Message-ID: <#2>
I just got back photos from the Battle of the Imports in Palmdale from
a few months ago. I took this occasion to make my first web page
(well, I did 'borrow' the framework from another site) and post about
10 of the pictures. I.E., don't expect too much.
A few things, you will need to turn on Images if you want to see
ANYTHING. Also, I left one picture at home and will have to upload it
this evening, so you will see a broken link thingy.
See pictures of Todd, Dave B., and the infamous Fred "Fuel Pump"
Miranda at http://www.abtechsys.com/mike/dsm/dsm.htm
-Mike
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 97 16:21:15 EST
Subject: Interesting turbo stuff
Message-ID: <#3>
I caught a fantastic show on TLC Monday night (8-9 PM EST) that was about
IndyCars and other amazing race cars (McLarens, Ferrari F-40s, and Porsches).
They used a high-speed video camera along with a bore-scope to view the
internals of an IndyCar engine while it was running. One particularly
amazing part was a face first shot right into the turbocharger intake.
The camera showed the compressor wheel spinning wildly and expelling air
through the outlet. The shots went on showing the intake/exhaust valves
opening and closing blowing air and gases all around. I was mesmerized by the
sight!
An item that you may find interesting was the blowoff valve (or wastegate,
they weren't really clear which it was) these cars used. It was set by race
officals to open at 40 inHg which is about 19.65 psi of boost. The things
were about the size of a coffee can and fit right on top of the motor. A
hose was run from this blowoff valve to the driver's helmet so that he could
adjust throttle position based on the hissing noise of it opening in order to
maximize the boost of the race car at all times. Pretty neat!
If you get a chance to see a re-run of this show, it'll give you a new
respect for turbocharged small displacement engines. These puppies put out
900 hp and go 0-100 in three seconds.
Take care,
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 17:46:55 -0500
Subject: The Talon of a friend
Message-ID: <#4>
A guy I work with had this happen to his 90 Talon AWD:
>Broken Wrist-Pin, timing belt snapped, bent the valves, and cracked the
>head, AND the Oil Pump is broken, ACK!
>
>Vasko Jeep/Eagle Dealership in Canonsburg said, and I quote,
>"HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH.........We're netting at minimum from you, CHA-CHING,
>
about $2600.00!"
The car has 81,000 miles on it, and had already had the timing belt snap on
it one other time (with similar horrible results). The first time it was
under warranty. It's not any more. What should I tell him to do? Maybe
he'll take $2,500 for the car and I can use the good parts. :-)
Michael Kline
'90 Talon TSi AWD
Pittsburgh
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 16:15:46 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Comments on remanufactured tires
Message-ID: <#5>
Hello,
I brought 4 remanufacted tires from Exotic Tires about 4 months ago.
Here is my inputs...
~The tread on the tires are different from the original manufacted ones.
They have their own design on the tread. Good design or not, I don't know.
~The brand you choose doesn't really matter and they have very limited
choices of the brands for all sizes.
40% of the tire material is from Exotic Tires. If you look close enough,
you can tell it is like brand new tread covers on a used tire.
~Tires are soft for some reasons, like Mickey Thomson Street legal Slick.
(of course won't be as good as Mickey Thomson, i think)
~The speed rating decreased. See table below...
R, S, T - Min 85 mph
U, H - Min 118 mph
V, Z - Min 130 mph
The tires I brought were rated S, so it is good up to 85 mph. Well... the
car still can go 100 mph but really not safe.
~After using those tires for a few months, they all still look good.
~The guy who balanced the tires for me said they didn't take much weight
to balance. And he said they all look good. I brought those 4 tires for
my Mon's van, she never drives more than 80 mph. So those remanufactured
tires are just perfect and cheap. But I won't buy it for my car.
~I think if you don't race and drive slow like my Mon, then those tires
are good. But if you need the tires to drag, then I don't think so.
Thanks.
~Benny '95 GS-T white
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 19:01:06 -0500
From: Chris Burton <kllr4cyl@ziplink.net>
Subject: foglights vs performance
Message-ID: <#6>
Marc Hallman, nice article on your car in Turbo Magazine (except for that
last little dig about breaking axles). I noticed you have the stock
intercooler and the stock foglights in place. Do you run 11's with the
foglights? I always thought they were a big impediment to getting fresh air
to the intercooler and therefore hindered performance. Comments??
Chris
92 Laser AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 19:22:40 -0500 (EST)
From: RPavsner@aol.com
Subject: Suspension In for '97 Season [1g,T, awd] & FL AutoX
Message-ID: <#7>
Hey Everyone,
Well after getting my suspension in, I finally got new tires which for a
while will double as race tires. I can honestly say this car handles
incredible and with the help of Farazaan's advice and lots of shopping I did
it all including tires for about $1,100.
This is what I did:
Koni sport cartridge front (strut).....part# 8641-1231
Koni sport gas shock rear.............part# 8040-1129
Eibach pro kit (1" drop)..................part# 6011.140
I ordered these parts from ASI in Cali they had all the parts in stock for
less than anywhere else I could find. Installation is not the easiest thing
in the world but 5 hours and it was done with no problems once everything was
on the car.
My tires needed replacing so I knew I was short of funds and would not be
able to afford a seperate set of racing rims and tires for Auto cross, so I
went with Dunlop D40m2's (225/50/16) in Z trim, I have had good experience
using these on my Shelby daytona in autocross competition. I used settings
that Farazaan recommended for Camber settings and the car tracks through
corners incredibly. His advice and web page were greatly appreciated.
I have the schedule for the South Florida AutoCross Scehdule, if anyone is
interested please e-mail me for details. Thanks again for everyone's advice
and for Todd making the digest possible.
Robert
90 Tsi
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 16:32:24 -0800
Subject: Burning out without moving
Message-ID: <#8>
> Being the obvious big man that he is </sarcasm>, he started
> revving his engine really high and then smoking the rear tires, WHILE
> STANDING COMPLETELY STILL. He never even moved forward. I know
because I
> was watching him in case he lurched forward so I could try to move before
> he demolished my rear end. Him and his passenger seemed to be delightfully
> enjoying the prospect of buying two new rear tires, because they were
> laughing as the driver was doing this. My question is, how did he do this?
Simple one there - linelock - you can use one on a FWD DSM if you want
to. It is basically a solenoid spliced into the brake lines - you hit
the brakes, then activate the solenoid. Then you can let your foot off
the break, and the solenoid holds the pressure in the line to the 2
wheels you wish to brake. Smoke your tires all you want, then let go of
the button, and off you go.
Very useful for racing - I may put one on my AWD just so I can race at
tracks with sloping launch pads - I can then concentrate on the clutch
and gas, and just let the button go at launch. No more red lights from
rolling.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 14 Jan 1996 20:26:29 -0400
From: Troy Jollimore <Troy.Jollimore@acadiau.ca>
Subject: 1G,T, AWD, FYI, RSVP, SOS, FUBAR...
Message-ID: <#9>
Heh! Like WWII code...
Well, the definitive word is back on my transmission. I'm just
curious if anyone else has had this same problem. Apparently, the
bearing at the end of one of the shafts, in a small plastic cup in the
casing became starved for oil somehow, overheated and seized. This
resulted in the tragic destruction of my tranny and drivetrain. At least
now Chrysler has a better chance of paying for it. Anyone else ever see
this kind of problem? Anything else I should check for damage caused by
the tranny suddenly seizing solid? (ie. Clutch, Crankshaft, Driveshaft,
etc...)
-Troy (Huntsman on IRC)
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 20:07:43 -0500 (EST)
From: JimFoss@aol.com
Subject: Re:Fuel-cut and then some - need help!
Message-ID: <#10>
<<Two months ago I noticed that just after the car reached normal operating
temperature I would get mini-fule-cuts. It would feel just like fuel-cut. It
would feel as though all fuel would be cut for a couple rpm, this is verified
by the imediate full lean condition (no leds lit) on Cyberdyne A/F guage. It
would happen 2 or 3 times with only a couple seconds in between
occurences.>>
These symptoms could also be due to an ignition problem. If the fuel and air
are not ignited, the oxygen sensor will see all the O2 in the air (as oposed
to products of combustion: CO2, etc.) and show full lean even though fuel is
present. On the next cycle, unburned fuel trapped in the cylinder would
cause it to show rich.
<<I installed a Buschur fuel pump which I hoped would solve these problems.>>
The fuel pump will help you to avoid leaning out, but does nothing to prevent
fuel cut. That is determined by the ECU based on the MAF signal.
Jim Fossum
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 20:09:27 -0500 (EST)
From: smanders@eos.ncsu.edu
Subject: Various ?'s
Message-ID: <#11>
I have a 2G T and some question's on my mind. What else does a filter charger
come with other than an air filter. I have just a K&N air filter. Is it worth
getting a hold of? I also was wonderingabout some warranty work. I have
heard
about some of you taking your cars back to the dealer to have warranty work
done involving the speaker rattles, cold start whine, gas tank leaks, etc. Do
I have to do any convincing with my dealer or do they already know about
these
problems? One more question...how much does it cost to have a 16G turbo
installed these days?
Thanks for your time,
Stephen
'95 Green GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 17:14:34 -0800
Subject: stock replacement IC
Message-ID: <#12>
Hello girls>Also, I'm looking for a fender mount intercooler that will perform
>better than the stock unit. The dealer wants almost $600 for the
>stock replacement, so I have about that much to spend.
SpeedTek sells a "large" intercooler that fits in the stock location and
uses stock inlet/outlet points. Supposedly good for 20 or 25 horse. I
don't know the cost (SpeedTek is closed for the day) but their phone #
is 713-869-8299. Speak to John Louis; he's very helpful.
>How could he sit still and smoke his tires?
Old RWD trick called a "line lock". Basically a solenoid in the brake
line to the rear brakes. You press the brake pedal, hit a button
(activating a solenoid in the high-pressure portion of the brake line)
and release the brake pedal. The front brakes are relieved, but the
rears are held in the "stop" position by the solenoid. On FWD cars we
can just use the e-brake. Wow, neat.
>~Where is the negative terminal of the coil? (for the RPM switch uses)
Uh, if your car is a 2G then use the diagnostic tach output lead. It's
a blue connector that's wrapped in tape, hiding behind the battery.
IMPORTANT: the output of this connector is exactly HALF of the actual
engine speed. If you have a selectable RPM module, set it to 1250 if it
goes that low. Otherwise, don't be surprised if you don't get any
nitrous until 5,000 rpm!
>~I know I can "T" the fuel hose to get the fuel, but is that a way to get
>the fuel from the top of the fuel filter? (that will look much better)
Get a $3 banjo bolt from Satan for the fuel filter. Drill & tap the
head for the fuel solenoid input. Slick. (Wasn't there discussion
about this before?)
>~What sizes should I use for the fuel jet and N2O jet? (I only need around
>50HP to start with)
For 50 HP use a #37 nitrous and #23 fuel jet. This is rich, so you'll
have to lean-down for max HP.
>~Finally, can someone just give me some sugguestions on installing the NOS
>system and somethings that I need to be aware of.
Make sure you mount the Fogger so that none of the nitrous/fuel mixture
gets into the ISC port. A buddy of mine plumbed his Fogger before the
throttle plate, and the first time he used it got a CHECK ENGINE light
with the error code pointing to the ISC motor. We replaced the motor,
killed it w/ NOS again before figuring it out. So he moved the Fogger
after the throttle blade and everything works like a charm. (FYI the
car is a '96 GS-T @ a 75 HP.)
I have this little web page (http://www.overboost.com) that has an
article called "Got NOS?".
You might find a few useful tips there.
LATES~
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 19:16:08 -0600 (CST)
From: MDSOG / Ray Parks <mdsog@connecti.com>
Subject: RE:unhappy customer, the other side of the story
Message-ID: <#13>
Ok...I've been cooking about this for about 24 hours now and need to
address a few more points.
>The local dealer grants me 20% off new Mitsu parts and had a
>new "loaded" head for my car for $937 (my cost) plus tax.
When Rick told me this I advised him to buy the head from his local
dealer.
>In a conversation with an Alamo AutoSports representative in San Antonio
>it was told to me that I should get a '94 head because it is "tumble flow
>ported" and will provide superior performance.
The representative was me...Ray Parks
I told Rick the Vertical Vortex "tumble flow" intake ports
were designed by Mitsubishi to reduce emissions. The earliest mention
of (Vertical Vortex "tumble flow" intake ports) I have is from the 1993
engine overhall supplement. I don't remember boasting about any
horsepower figures.
>The bare head was quoted to me as $930 and I would have to buy valves
>and lot of other things to complete the head
The list price was $1250.00 do the math...big discount.
>I went ahead and placed a "large order" with Alamo falling for the advice.
>The order exceeded 2 grand
Even after I advised you to go for the loaded $937 head. I said to you,
"If it was my choice, I would use the '90 casting because it costs less."
>I felt as though Alamo was playing me for a fool.
We wouldn't do this to anyone. You have my word.
>I cancelled the order with Alamo and ordered everything from Dave
>Buschur! Dave was able to provide all the Mitsu parts BELOW my 20%
>discounted price from the local dealer! Needless to say, I am very
>grateful for learning the truth and at the same time hurt that I was
>considered "a sucker" by Alamo (my feeling). Perhaps they didn't know
>any better. I don't care. I was paying for it. Not any more.
Rick, I told you I couldn't find the part number. Our local dealer
couldn't find the part number. We couldn't find it! Couldn't find it!
It's just not there. The Jeep/Eagle guys here can't access that number!
I also told you, if you could get the part number for me, I would make
it well worth your while. This meant the head at -30%.
>I had previously sent my (Alamo) intercooler to Alamo for a pipe
>upgrade, offered to me in a "cold call" a few months ago by Alamo.
You asked Mr.Bell to inform you of any updates in the Alamo product
line.
> I was told on the phone that this would cost
>"about $35". I sent it off. When it came today I was billed $90.
Ok...sombody, probably me, made an error. You should have called me,
and held me to the $35 phone quote. I quoted you for work only...
>Alamo only replaced the output pipe with a larger pipe, but Steve Bell
>of Alamop told me the "rubber interface tubing costs $50."
HKS part #90400-5060US listed for $46.40 on 09/18/96 the price is
currently $46.99 this is for silicone. In mid December we switched
to a rubber hose. Mr. Bell didn't know we switched to rubber.
Again, you should have called us...we have always been fair to you.
>I guess they are getting even for the cancelled order, I don't know.
>I don't care.
The cancelled order was no problem. No one here at Alamo was
inconvienenced
in any way. It is always your choice to place or cancel an order with
anyone you deal with.
>I have had it with Alamo. They have "had me" for the last time. I have
>purchased thousands of dollars worth of items from them this past year.
>I have taken their advice, some good, some bad. That's enough. For me
>I have been burned and I will always "remember the Alamo."
You have always been treated with
respect. You were always charged a fair price. We even sent an ECU for
you to swap out while you were tuning out you PMS unit. Out of the
goodness of our hearts. We never charged you for the ECU.
It is an ECU with an prom upgrade to boot, not just some junkyard stocker.
Furthermore, we offered tech support to you on the 800 number.
Once again folks...a misunderstanding is turned into an international
conspiricy. A small mistake $55 has enraged Mr. Shindley. He never even
bothered to call and bitch. As far as the cylinder heads, I'm sure
this will open up days and days of heated debate...stay tuned...
Ray
PS. 183 men gave their lives for Texas at the Alamo. Out numbered, out
gunned and held under seige. They never gave up......Remember...
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 19:38:42 -0600 (CST)
Subject: TAD Motorsports (was: repairs)
Message-ID: <#14>
As a counterpoint to the post complaining about TAD:
I've been a customer of TAD for 3+ years now. I've had nothing but an
excellent experience dealing with them. They (Murray and Mike) go
beyond what I've ever expected from any shop I've dealt with.
They've stayed late on weekends, weekdays, whenever, to look at any
problem I've had, or to answer any questions I've had, no matter how
minor. They do support race-teams, but they treat me and other
customers with as much respect as they do their racing teams. The
work they do is impeccable, and they've always stood by it.
I even bought my Galant thru them. A friend of Mike's was selling his
Galant, and Mike checked it out for me. It was exactly as he said it
would be, and I'm more than happy with the purchase. They even stored
it for me for 3 months no charge, when I was still in England.
>Car was purchased in Feb. 95 with 19,000 miles on the clock. I
>slammed the car within the first month with Eibach, Koni, etc. No
>complaints so far. Later bought a manual boost, found out how to
>cheat with gas pedal floored and then turn the boost up. Got some
>crazy acceleration. Raced a Viper on the highway with this set-up,
>stayed in front of him to 145 mph, melted my engine as well.
Did you have a boost gauge? EGT Gauge? What kind of boost levels
were you running? What other mods did you have on the car at the time
to be able to beat a viper and melt your engine all in one go (before
you took it to TAD to be fixed)?
>Car engine was modded at 34,000 miles, I think it has something
>like 51,000 miles on it now. Probably spent about $15-16,000 on
>modifications. Would have been cheaper to buy an M-3??
I'll put my Galant up against an M3. Shall we have a go? :-) I've
only spent about $2000-$2500 in mods on mine tops.
>He seems more interested in working on his race cars than with
>customers cars. Very interested in bleeding me dry too.
In my personal experience, that's a load of crap, (but that's just my
opinion). He's done work for me a number of times and not charged me,
and has always been patient and treated me with the same respect as
any other customer. Doesn't sound like he was bleeding me dry, or
more interested in the race cars...
....if you doubt the quality of his work or his knowledge, then ask
Rod Millen why he hired Murray as his chief-mechanic.
Remember, there are two sides to every story. I happen to have heard
the other side, and to say that I am not impressed with the previous
post is an understatement.
Vel
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 22:26:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Prjtrev@aol.com
Subject: Turbo's & Parts 4 sale.
Message-ID: <#15>
All Parts are New....
16G's for sale kits for 2nd gen for $1050.
16G's for 1st gen $775.00.
T-25 with Super 60 wheel and ported exhaust housing $600.00.
HKS Fuel - Cut Defenser for 2nd gen $200.00
HKS Fuel - Cut Defenser for 1st gen $175.00
Weapon * R Intake system for 2nd Gen $115.00
Weapon * R Intake for 1st Gen $45.00
Weapon * R Turbo Clutch For 2nd Gen $400.00
Fuel Pump Upgrades for $200.00 Nippon Denso
Thermal Research & Development ( Quiet by Deadly )
3" Mendrel Bolt on Exhaust for 2nd Gen GST $575.00
3" Mendrel Bolt on Exhaust for 2nd Gen GSX $575.00
2.5" Downpipe Mendrel bolt on for 1st Gen GSX $225.00
2.5" cat replacements for any model $50.00
If you have any ?'s Email or Call (415) 259-9738
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 97 03:25:46 UT
From: "Chung-Hun (Scott) Kim" <Chung-Hun_Kim@msn.com>
Subject: Tires & noises
Message-ID: <#16>
Question: How small can a defect or irregular wear on a tire be
before it will start to make a weird sound as you drive?
I ask because I have this weird warping kind of sound
coming from my car which is worst in the 25-45mph
range. The inner most block of tread on 1 of my
front tires are kind of saw-toothed but not extremely so.
Riding on 4 Goodyear Eagle GT+4 P205/55R16 89V.
BTW how do you guys who torque your wheels down with only 70 ft-lbs.
feel safe? I used 75 ft-lbs. and it felt like I didn't tighten it
enough, it was VERY easy to do.
Scott 93 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 97 21:37:21 PST
From: "Dave Campbell" <eclipsed@camalott.com>
Subject: Re: 2.5" FWD Exhausts Cheap
Message-ID: <#17>
'Monza' is made by Pacesetter and the 2 1/2" refers to the exhaust tips.
The pipes are more like 2 1/4". NOPI sells them for $119.00 plus shipping.
They fit both the FWD 2.0 T and NTand 1.8 cars.
Dave C.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 21:48:54 -0600
Subject: shadetree page - dealers?
Message-ID: <#18>
>
I think you may be a little over zealous here, a total ban on
>dealers will lose some potentialy useful sites.
First, let's clear the air here - I'm not putting dealers on my
webpage.
that's it - last word on that from me.
I'm not saying they are crooks, (ok, so I called em satan) but let's
look at a few facts.
1) Dealers are a hell of a lot more expensive to take our cars to than a
guy like Buschur or a shadetree. If I am wrong, please - some one enlighten
me. BTW, what dealership sponsored dsm has broken 12's or even 13's
yet? : )
2) Eagle, Mitsu and Plymouth dealerships have generally took a big dump on
the enthusiast. From the transaxles to the battles various members have had
with getting TSB's done correctly, to horror stories I read all the time in
the digest, it's common knowledge that dealers are going to use you like a
shake-and-bake bag.
With this in mind, who would you rather pay to have something done to your
car? Would you like to pay a faceless 'dealer' to work on your dsm,(hey,
that's a mod! you're out of warranty, pal!) or have the money go to a
hard-working guy who drives a car like yours and is making a few extra
bucks on the side?
Why should I do squat for dealerships by promoting them on my page? They
have yellow pages, etc. for advertising, and anyone who wants to can easily
find the dealers in their area.
I personally would rather see what limited promotion/information I can
provide going to guys who love these cars as much as we do - and feel like
sharing their mechanical aptitude. Again, I'd rather pay a fellow dsm'r
than satan.
>I am only realy making this argument because the dealer repair shop
>page is dead.
well then, put that page up. Enjoy yourself. just make sure you damn the
bad dealers as well as praise the good ones.
Pete
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 23:11:54 -0500
From: Stephen Mcdonnell <mcdonnell@icubed.net>
Subject: MAS Porting....Broken speedo
Message-ID: <#19>
[Please turn off the "send as html" option. -talon mgr]
I was wondering with all the talking about fuel cut, etc,etc....has
anyone tried to port the inside of the MAS? Basically just opening the
inside up some. I'm sure with as long as some people on this digest
have been tweaking someone should have thought of this and shot it down
for some reason. I thought about it when I was doing my intake elbow
and decided I'll wait and ask. I know that backing out the screw ups
the boost level before fuel cut, is this because it's allow more air to
pass where the screw normally was? If so then some mild ( or major )
porting should help this.
I did the usual mods to my MAS and I've only seen fuel cut once...7
grand...22 - 23 psi...stock pump...stock exhaust, Really it was a
mistake before I had an aftermarket boost gauge, the dealer fixed my
timing and for some reason had to remove the vacuum line on the outlet
hose of the turbo. Well boy was I surprised when I got in my car after
having the timing reset and had @ 100 more hp ( 9 psi - 23 psi ) I
thought wow this is how the car is suppose to feel.
Anyway now I'm wiser and poorer trying to attain faster speeds, but
a little more airflow never hurt anyone so I'm interested in MAS porting
help if someone has done it.
One last thing does anyone have a broken speedo lying around...I
need a single small little part. TIA
Steve
91 RED GS-T (seeing much better in the dark thanks to new fogs!!!)
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 21:14:06 -0700
Subject: 1g awd auto ECU
Message-ID: <#20>
Todd,
I think there might have been a misunderstanding in the response to my last
post.
I wrote:
<If you disconnect the TPS does this cause the ECU to use default settings>
<for the TPS input or does the whole ECU go into default? >
>I'm having probs with power loss and erratic shifting (auto tranny).>
response was:
<The only thing you are really missing out on is the extra juice you>
<get when press on the throttle, but the engine hasn't caught up yet.>
If I'm not mistaken the ECU uses the TPS to sense throttle position to help
in the control of the tranny shift points for an automatic. When I
disconnected the TPS shifting became regular and wouldn't hunt or peck for
the right gear.
does this mean that the ECU is simulating the TPS readings, or is the whole
ECU in default and all settings are now simulated??
[Hmmm... hadn't thought of that, since I rarely deal with auto trannies.
However, there is nothing in the code that deals with an auto tranny,
so I think the disappearance of your problem is actually a secondary
effect. -talon mgr]
<Oddly enough, the first gens won't even light the CHECK ENGINE light
for a> <bad TPS sensor.
My check engine light comes on about 10 secs after I start the car when the
TPS is disconnected. when it is hooked up I get no check engine light.
[Yeah, I got my TLAs mixed up. It is actually the ISC servo that will
never flag an error, even though there is a code for it (ECU doesn't
do any checking). Also, spedometer will never flag a check engine
light either, even though there is a code for it as well. -talon mgr]
I think my TPS is sending an erratic reading to the ECU which is confusing
the auto tranny. I don't have the service manual yet. The only one I
found at a dealer the wanted $120, I laughed at him told him I only wanted
one and he said that is just one. I left abruptly and promised myself to
never return.
If anyone can check this in the manual or where ever I'd appreciate it.
Bob Fischer
DSM irc: TsiBob
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 23:22:07 -0800
From: james oxley <luxjo@thecore.com>
Subject: rwd burnouts/NOS tips-questions/boost creep/HODT
Message-ID: <#21>
>How could he sit still and smoke his tires? I have some ideas about how
>one might accomplish this, but nothing concrete. Anyone care to tell me?
It's easy with V-8, auto, RWD cars. Place foot firmly on brake pedal.
Push gas to floor. Disc brakes in front will hold veh from moving while
drum brakes in back will have less braking force and can be overcome by
engine torque. Once rear tires start to spin, it becomes even easier to
maintain (burnout) due to friction coef of tire changing from static
(tire stopped or not skidding ) to sliding (tire slipping). Coef of
static friction is higher than that of sliding friction.
Finally, can someone just give me some sugguestions on installing the NOS
system and somethings that I need to beaware of.
"Banjo" fitting on outlet of fuel filter can be tapped for NOS fuel
supply. A tee in the line is really not the greatest idea due to fuel
pressure reaching close to 60 psi at 20 PSI boost.
Get yourself a NOS pressure guage and bottle heater. Ensure NOS
pressure is at least 900 PSI, but not over 1070 PSI. Heating of bottle
will be required in cold weather, possibly for up to a half an hour.
Get FP gauge to ensure pump is up to engine and NOS needs.
Also, I was wondering why Dave and Bill gave up on the NOS. My
understanding is that it did not make that much of a difference in 1/4
mile times when you are running mid to low 11's. Was this due to the
engine just not being able to handle the extra airflow? I have heard
some people on the 5.0 digest state that running over 200 HP NOS on
virtually stock intake/headed`engines did not produce any more HP due to
limitations of the stock intake/heads. I remember Dave saying that his
engine bent several rods in the same cyl due to the nitrous. Was this
due to not having a port system and all the NOS going into one cyl? I
have been told that with a port NOS system, that there is not enough
time for the nitrous to mix with the gas before it enters the cyl.
Anyone ever think of creating 4 seperate tubes tapped into each port on
the manifold to allow a wet port system to be used, but have extra time
for gas to mix with NOS? I guess this would cause havoc with intake
runner airflow, due to the "NOS tube port" opening.
Kevin R.
I have O2/turbine sec ported, but still get boost creep with 3 inch
downpipe/no cat. 2.5 downpipe and test pipe are no problem with porting.
I have 2.5 exh. I did a WG analysis several months back and determined
that I still need more O2 housing porting and/or a bigger WG hole. The
WG actuator only opens the WG door partially. Even wiring open the WG
door to full open pos did not reduce my boost creep. Obviously a
external WG will solve all boost creep problems, but do the porting
first.
>7) Finally, we come to weight.. The 3000GT NT probably weighs a good
>300 pounds more than the lighter DSM. Do you understand what this
>means?... HA! WRONG!!! But, it's ok, this was a tricky question.
>We'd only expect the smartest DSM'ers to get this one, like that
>Boosted guy on the East coast who runs 10's with his FWD DSM! Think
>really hard now.. In racing, what do they do when a race car is much
>faster than the other cars it competes with?? Answer: They add
>weight to it!!! Obviously, this is what happened to the 3000GT NT!!
>It is so much faster than a GSX, they rewarded the 3000GT by adding a
>few hundred more pounds!!
HAH, and you thought we weren't paying attention. This contradicts
your "Honda lightness theory", uh, I mean, track proven fact, of being
able to float down the track with all the body parts removed. If Hondas
are even faster than 3000 GT, NT's, why doesn't your Honda recipe call
for the weight reward.
Explain that one :-) ??? or cancel my stealth, body colored paint,
pre-shootout discounted price, DT order.
OX
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 23:46:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Christian Boglivi <cboglivi@plaid.richmond.edu>
Subject: 91' Eclipse For Sale
Message-ID: <#22>
My 1991 GSX is for sale. My dad is making me get a more practical car for a
College Student. It is a sweet car, in good condition, black, stick, power
windows and locks, alarm, Mitsubishi car cover, pop up sunroof, Pioneer CD
player with sweet Infinity 6x9's in the back (sounds good but not much
Bass). I live in North Jersey, E-mail at cboglivi@student.richmond.edu in
interested. I would like to get 7,000 for it.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 22:41:28 -0600
From: "Jon L. Peccarelli" <jonpecc@csd.uwm.edu>
Subject: '97 AWD badging question
Message-ID: <#23>
Anyone with a '97 Eagle Talon TSi AWD, could you please respond. I bought
mine about 2 weeks ago and just noticed this last week. On the passenger's
side rear of the car, the brochures have "TSi AWD" on the back. But mine
has "TSi". And yes, my car is a AWD. Is my car marked wrong or is
everyone's 97 like that? Thanks!
Jon L. Peccarelli
'97 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - Sold my '91 Nissan Sentra SE-R
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 00:07:15 -0500 (EST)
From: SPR741@aol.com
Subject: Wanted:
Message-ID: <#24>
Hi guys and girls,
My friend is looking for some stock rims off a 93/94 talon tsi. The charcoal
gray color ones. If anyone has a set laying around, please drop me a line.
Thank You.
Brian
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 00:43:09 -0500
From: "Jason Lanstra" <frgestl@erols.com>
Subject: Long awaited update
Message-ID: <#25>
Hey guys,
I thought I should answer a few questions about the DSM stuff. Yes, you
will have DSM static stickers soon. Yes, the plate frames are done. No, I
am not accepting anymore money for the sticker until they arrive. Now let
me go into detail.
DSM static stickers,
This has been the hardest task I have ever been faced with in my life. It
would appear to people that this would be easy. That's what I thought when
I took on the task. But you couldn't imagine how hard it is to get a
multi-color static sticker done. I say multi-color because they count the
graduation of color as seperate colors. I have gone to several printers to
have this done and noone wants to do it. I finally found a company that
would do it and I will have their proof by the end of this week. The chain
of events as it is now is, get the proof, if I like it they print the rest,
if not they re-do it, and then I get another proof. This goes until I am
satisfied with the work. Let me tell you, for all this time I have put into
this these things are going to look awesome. I have spent almost a year on
this project alone, I have had the artwork redone, mac-ified, redone agian,
and then agian. It still looks pretty much the same but is ALOT crisper.
Frames,
They are done and ready to be shipped out to the world. All of you who have
sent money to me already for the stickers and frames. I will send both
together when the stickers arrive. I have already sent out a couple anxious
peoples frames. I can do this for you too as long as I receive a Self
Addresses Stamped Envelope upon receiving your frames. The reason for this
is simple, I am losing money as it is on these and I can't afford to lose
anymore. A simple 32 cent envelope will suffice.
Money,
I am not accpeting anymore money for the stickers until I receive them.
This is for two reasons. 1. because I don't have the merchandise and don't
have an exact date when I will. 2. Because, who wants to send money for
something that isn't available yet?
As I said before there will be some DSM static stickers very very soon. I
have gone to far with this to just not get them done. Canadian orders, I
can only accept US funds. Abd I will ahve to add extra shipping to you. The
$4.25/ea for frames and $3.00/ea. for stickers included shipping for the US
but extra is needed to get to Canada. I didn't want to do this but I cannot
afford to lose anymore money on this project. As an alternative I will be
at Shootout '97 with a hatch full of DSM stuff. You could pick one up there
if you come.
Future DSM stuff,
As I said I will be at Shootout '97 with a hatch full of DSM stuff. I will
have the frames, stickers and new DSM stuff. Stuff at the shootout will be
cheaper because of no shipping. I have a few ideas on what new DSM stuff I
am going to offer but if you have some email them to me frgestl@erols.com .
I will not be able to do anything until after the stickers are done
though.
I hope this answered alot of questions, if not I can always be reached at
frgestl@erols.com just drop me a line.
Later,
Jason Lanstra
(Froggy on IRC)
'93 Laser RS NT
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 00:52:47 -0500
Subject: Peeling dash, sub woofer in spare (ALL)
Message-ID: <#26>
Hey guys me agian,
I have a couple personal DSM stuff to ask about now.
Does anyone have a fix for the peeling dash? It is right where the top
section and the bottom meet. Has anyone tried hot glue? Also, has anyone
ever installed a sub woofer where the spare tire is on a non-AWD? I want to
do this with my system and just wanted to hear from some people who have
done it.
RTP, please
Jason Lanstra
'93 Laser RS NT (Froggy green paint, NGK wires, K&N, removed air can
nozzel, removed air resovior (is that the right name for it?), Ram-air
system (ask if you want to know))
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 10:34:14 -0500
Subject: Factory Alarm Fix
Message-ID: <#27>
Frank Williamson wrote:
>>is there an easy fix for the bad alarm problem
If you have the Factory Service Manual for your 91 Talon, check page 8-300
(in the Electrical Manual) for the troubleshooting section for the alarm.
This section describes the proper connections on the diagnostic connector
for the alarm codes and should allow you to pretty easily determine whether
the door locks are being properly recognized by the alarm.
I was able to find a problem with the alarm not arming on my 90 GSX using
this troubleshooting guide in about 15 minutes. It was a problem with the
door pins having corrosion on them -- works fine now!!
RTP if you need any more specifics, and I'll see what I can do!
Damian
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 00:56:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: <2G> Greddy Turbo Timer installation tip
Message-ID: <#28>
Hi everybody, I finally finish installing my Greddy Turbo Timer after more
than a day trying to figure out what was wrong with it. The Greddy harness
*WILL NOT* work on cars equipped with the factory theft alarm system. So if
anybody wants to get the Greddy turbo timer, I repeat DO NOT GET THE
GREDDY
TURBO TIMER HARNESS. I found a simpler way. Just get the HK$ harness, it
will
work perfectly. For those who get the Greddy harness, you would need to
reroute the GREEN wire. It is the one which have two green wires stuck
together. Once you reroute the wire, it should work just fine. Hope this will
help.
Lee
96' Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 23:15:24 -0800
From: gelph@garlic.com
Subject: Turbo bog (AT)
Message-ID: <#29>
I have a 91 laser turbo with an AT and when its cold and my oil has bout 1k
miles on it i have a problem. When i hit the gas the turbo starts to spool
up and then jus bogs down like it has huge back pressure. I still have dino
oil in it iam going to put in synthetic not sure what type most ppl say
mobil 1 so i guess ill try that or castrol. The turbo does go cause i hear
it but jus no power. When the engine warms up i dont get that as much but i
do get it sometimes. To make things more complex sometimes i dont get that
bog when its cold for the first few accels. Pls post anything that may help
or diagnose the prob. Thanks much.
inline4-t
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 01:28:32 -0800
From: Kyle Munz <kmunz@envirolink.org>
Subject: re:smoking tires
Message-ID: <#30>
>revving his engine really high and then smoking the rear tires, WHILE
>STANDING COMPLETELY STILL. He never even moved forward. I know
because I
>was watching him in case he lurched forward so I could try to move before
>he demolished my rear end. Him and his passenger seemed to be delightfully
>enjoying the prospect of buying two new rear tires, because they were
>laughing as the driver was doing this. My question is, how did he do this?
Power braking, autos can hold the brakes and gas pedal down at the same
time...
but a friend of mine in HS had an old AMC Javelin completely modded for
drag. He had a hand brake for the front tires, he'd lock up the skinnies
and spin the mickies... :P
good thing his family was rich...
~Kyl3 Munz
'91BlackTSiAWD
'Blue Lite Special' Smashed but still Special.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 02:35:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Lots of stuff
Message-ID: <#31>
What's happening dudes and dudettes?
I feel as though I may have not asked enough questions when a few guys have
called me lately. Usually when I get a call for a certain part unless it is
really high priced I don't bother to ask why you want it I just write it down
and send it. I noticed in the last few digest a couple guys commented they
bought fuel pumps from me either to get rid of fuel cut or because they were
getting fuel cut already. Well I just want to tell everyone that a fuel pump
upgrade will IN NO WAY solve fuel cut. Now if you had a miss that you were
mistaking for fuel cut and the car was actually missing becuse it was lean
that is another story. True fuel cut cannot be changed from the fuel pump
upgrade though. Just want you guys to know so nobody else waste money
trying
to get rid of the fuel cut with a pump.
Comfrt '95 GSX.
I read your post about drafting. Believe me it helps. Two years ago when
the Ohio crew went to Oklahoma for the DSM shootout Ken Walker followed
me.
I was driving my Suburban pulling the 24' enclosed trailor. The top is
probably around 9.5' tall and I think it is 108" wide. Anyway, in his '92
AWD Laser running 12.50's or so, he got just over 32 mpg every single tank.
He never got this again. The other guys who ran behind him or infront of me
time to time only got around 27-29. I really think it makes a difference. I
know when I used to do alot of traveling on motorcycles I use to get behind
the semis when I was cold or tired to draft off them. Unbelievable how much
difference there is in wind behind them. Problem is you gotta stay on your
toes. I fell asleep once on the bike (no sh**) and felt the bike swerve,
popped my eyes open and I'm about 6 feet off this guys butt going 70, he's at
about 55. Slam the brakes and it won't slow down, I had an old manual cruise
control and you have to shut it off with your thumb, so anyway lay bike into
a hard left and just clear his bumper. Scared the crap out of me. Pulled
off in the next rest area and passed out (slept) in the gutter. Woke up in a
few inches of water, it had started to rain and I was sleeping on the ground
next to the bike with my old Army rain poncho on. Since I have rambled on
with this stupid story this long I want to add this was all for a little
blonde in Wisconsin. 37 hours no sleep, straight through in 42 degree
wheather from FT. McClellan, Alabama to Wausa, Wisc. It was a 27 hour drive,
no sleep, no stops on a Honda Custom 400. Man I was crazy for women.
ha ha ha
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 00:49:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Alex Okun <aokun@sdcc10.ucsd.edu>
Subject: [1G,T] 2.5" Ultraflow; Fixes for dipstick and oil consumption
Message-ID: <#32>
>When I got the car back, the oil dipstick keeps popping up and splashing
>oil everywhere. I know this has been talked about in the past...but I
>need help. I took it back to the dealer this morning and the mechanic
>couldn't find anything wrong with it. I had just put a new PVC valve on
>about a month ago and I know its not that. I'm running about 15 lbs. of
>boost with the usual free mods and a K&N.
I had exactly same problem as you. It turned out that rubber plug that
holds dipstick in the tube was wornout(80k). After I got a new dipstick
($8-$10) it never came out at 18psi. Old one would usually come out about
0.5" everytime. This one hasn't moved since I installed it. Mods:
16G 10degree clip/ported, 95 ex. manifold,2.5" downpipe, 2.5" Random Tech
Cat, 2.5" Ultraflow cat-back, K&N, fuel pump,18psi (when the car is
not detonating :)
>Also, I was going to get a 2.5" downpipe and 2.5" press bent exhaust
>and get rid of the cat. I was going to get the 2.5" Dynomax Ultraflow
I got Dave B. 2.5", it's a pretty good system. It sounds about the same
as SuperTurbo but I gained 0.2sec in 0-60mph after the switch. I have one
problem though. Something in my car starts resonating at about 3100rpm.
Not sure what it is yet.
If you are using about 1qt of oil every 1000mi start saving for a 16G. My
car started using 1qt per 2000mi about a year ago, before I put in 16G it
was using 1qt every 800mi. No signs of oil under the car, turbo was
covered with oil though and pipes downstream of turbo were also oily.
I have been driving with a new turbo for 2 weeks now, no signs of oil
consumption. Turbo installation is not that hard even if you are not
very mechanically inclined. I'll make a FAQ after I get pictures
scanned in.
Alex
IRC nick T-1000
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 23:50:09 -0800
From: Thomas Harrington <tomh@lvccld.lib.nv.us>
Subject: [2G T] Cold weather starting, brake fluid and radio volume
problems
Message-ID: <#33>
Does/has anyone else had the following problems with their 95+ Eclipse.
Mine is a 95 GST w/5-speed and Infinity radio/tape combo (no cd in
dash). The car is bone STOCK. Nothing, not even an air filter.
Problem 1. A while back, I drove from warm Vegas ( 80F ) to colder Reno
( 40F ). The next morning when I tried to start the car, it would
start, then immediatly die. It did this about eleven times. Once it
started, it need some throttle to keep running. This cleared itself up
in about 15-30 seconds. This morning, Vegas got cold ( 30F ). My car
again, did not want to start. I cranked it 5-7 times before it would
start. Once it started, revs were at about 1500RPM (what I expected).
The car was fine, but still 5-7 times to start it. What gives?
Problem 2. I took my car to the dealer because when I turn the radio
volume up, sometimes it does not go UP. Sometimes it goes DOWN, many
times, it does nothing. If it turn it fast, it will _maybe_ go UP very
slowly. The dealer looked at it, but did not find anything.(surprise,
surprise) Any Ideas?
Problem 3. When my car had about 7000 miles on it, the "BRAKE" light
came on. I added brake fluid and it went off. Now my car has 13500
miles, and the brake light came on again. Now, I know I filled it last
time, so I took it to the dealer. He said that this was "poor design"
and "normal" He started out with the usual, you brake might need
changing, but they don't. Has anyone else had this problem, or do I
have a leek somewhere? I have notice, that the bracket that holds the
brake fluid resouiver(ohh.. you know, the plastic can) has the black
paint pealing off and has rusted. This is Las Vegas, it rarely rains
here, and I don't wash it enough to rust. Anyone else have these
problems?
I like my eclipse, but it seems to like my dealer more. It spent a
month in the body shop there(long story, NOT my fault), and has been to
the service department about 5 times for various warenty work including,
new battery, poorly installed trim, broken sunroof rails, rear speaker
rattle(still not fixed), lifter noise( apparently because I'm not using
a Mitsubishi Brand oil filer-- I used Fram), hard cornering engine death
( apparently a "poorly designed fuel tank", seem to be a lot of this
poorly designed crap ) and other annoying items.
Well if you have input, please e-mail me at tomh@lvccld.lib.nv.us also.
I like my car and all, but sometime I just wonder why it hates me so much.
Tom Harrington
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 01:40:53 -0800
Subject: Mike SUCKS!!!
Message-ID: <#34>
Mike F, I am SICK of you trashing DSMs left and right.
You wrote a perfectly good article on Marc Hallman's car (Marc, I'm
gunning for that 14B record...), I was REALLY happy with it...until you
showed your DUMBS$$$ bias on the LAST sentence.
Mike, YOU are the one breaking parts. YES, the trannies and transfer
cases are weakpoints on the AWD cars. But YOU, and ONLY YOU, seem to
break them so often. QUIT accentuating YOUR breakage, and QUIT having
the nerve to expect others to break as much as you. YOU BREAK BECAUSE
YOU CAN'T DRIVE!!!
This is a call for ALL Digesters to Email turboperf@aol.com (Turbo Mag)
and turbogod@primenet.com and express their displeasure DAILY until Mike
prints a retraction IN THE MAGAZINE, stating the simple truth that maybe
IT'S HIS DRIVING STYLE causing such high breakage. Here is a MUCH more
polite version that Jon wrote, please use IT, not what I wrote above
;-)
[This letter also available via a link from the website. -talon mgr]
*******************************************************
An open letter to Turbo Magazine
Turbo Magazine
9887 Hamilton Ave
Huntington Beach, CA 92646
(714) 962-7795 Tel
(714) 965-2268 Fax
turboperf@aol.com
To: The Editors and Owners of Turbo Magazine
Dear Sirs,
In the past I have read with great interest many of the articles in
your magazine, and used to look foward to seeing articles about the
Diamond Star Motors (DSM) Talons, Lasers, and Eclipses, as I drive one
myself. However, recent articles in your magazine which have been
authored by Michael Ferrara have put an end to my enthusiasm. Instead of
reading articles with useful information or entertaining stories about
my favorite car I am instead bombarded with endless lists of the parts
that HE has broken. I am unsympathetic for a very simple reason - Mr.
Ferrara has managed to single-handedly break more parts, in less time,
than any dozen DSM owners I know put together, and I know over a
thousand of them!
On your web site in the page about your most recent DSM article about
Marc Hallman's "Worlds Quickest Stock Turbo Talon", Mike Ferrera ruins
the article at the end - "If Marc finds a way to keep the transmission,
transfer case and axles from breaking, we're sure he'll reach his goal".
You say in that article (online, at least), and I quote, "If you are
looking to increase the performance of your Diamond Star, there's only
one place to go Turbo magazine." I would like to ask that you put some
truth behind this statement. A good start would be for Mr. Ferrara to
start admitting that perhaps his collection of parts, which only he
seems able to break, is due to his apparently dubious qualities as a
driver and/or tuner and not to the excellent qualities of these cars.
(Actually, a good start for a place to go is to Club DSM (TM) at
http://www.dsm.org. Mr. Ferrara has gotten the Talon Digest for almost 2
years, but obviously doesn't bother reading the daily digest, because he
is making mistakes our club has known about for over two years!)
An even better start would be for you to send some other writer to cover
this year's "Diamond Star Shootout" held in every year in Norwalk, Ohio
(several of those thousand DSM owners I mentioned are actually going to
drive their supposedly unreliable cars all the way from California to be
there!). That way you can show your readers what our cars are really
capable of, rather than how little Mr. Ferrara is capable of doing with
his car and tons of sponsor money/parts. (At this point when I want to
increase the performance of my Diamond Star the place I go is Club DSM
(TM) at http://www.dsm.org. The information contained in the club digest
has enabled me to increase the performance of my car while avoiding the
pile of broken parts that Mike Ferrara has amassed. Perhaps Mr. Ferrara
would have more success if he followed the advice contained in our
digest. Since Mr. Ferrara appears to have the
luxury of spending (wasting?) the magazine's time/money in his
unsucessful attempts to learn things we have known for years, perhaps
you should ask him to read our digest before you give him any more checks.)
Please return to me the enthusiasm I once had for your fine magazine.
Sincerely,
Tom Stangl
Thanks go to Jon Bennett for toning down my language a LOT on this,
believe me, the first draft was quite hot.
*******************************************************
Tom Stangl
1990 Talon AWD
1992 Laser AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 04:35:35 -0600
From: "Smokin" <Smokin@csinet.net>
Subject: White 2nd Gen Eclipse
Message-ID: <#35>
Who wants to claim a white 2nd gen eclipse with a HUGE spoiler and twin
blue racing stripes? The car was spotted heading west on I-80 at a high
rate of speed (heh heh) on Monday, about 4:00 P.M. west of Joliet,
Illinois.
Dave 92 GSX
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 11:05:13 -0500 (EST)
From: John Snodgrass <jls@ssc.siemens.com>
Subject: Car for Sale (Last Chance)
Message-ID: <#36>
FOR SALE
1991 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD
$8,500 OBO
The car has 71K miles and is dark blue with silver/grey accents along the
bottom. This car has been very reliable for me the last five years. When I
bought the car, it had every option except for the leather seats and CD
player. I have since installed a pullout Sony CD player. I have maintained
this car myself and it is in very good condition. I have done the timing
belt service, installed a new clutch, and just recently installed a new
Sears Diehard battery. I have also installed new brake pads within the
couple of months.
Features and Modifications
Upgraded front brakes to larger 1994 AWD specifications
Custom cat back exhaust with hi-flow muffler
Eibach high performance street springs
Suspension Technics rear sway bar
TSW Stealth five spoke wheels 16x7.5
K&N air filter
Custom fitted car cover
Full set of factory service manuals
Except for the exhaust and muffler, I have all the stock parts and will
pass those along to the new owner.
If you are interested, email me at johns@magicnet.net or
jls@ssc.siemens.com and I can send you some recent pictures. I am no
longer a list member, so please respond directly to me.
I live in Orlando, Florida
You can call me at 407-942-5583 (work)
407-260-2230 (home)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 10:03:00 CST
Subject: turbo pricing
Message-ID: <#37>
G'day folks,
>And, finally, I'm looking at the T3/T4
>hybrid because it's *cheap* compared to the T25/Super 60 or the 16G
>at only $750.
If you are comparing 16g prices to that of the T3/T4, please check
around. The 16g can be had for $750 and less.
Right.
C-Ya!
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 11:28:39 -0500 (EST)
From: "lionel@hcl.com" <lionel@hcl.com>
Subject: smoking tires standing still
Message-ID: <#38>
There are a couple of ways:
~brake stand
~lineloc
A brake stand is exactly what you are thinking. Step on the brakes just
enough to lock up the front, and step on the gas to get the rears spinning.
Lineloc is hooked up to the front brakes. You simply hold down the lineloc
button while pumping the brakes to lock them up. Do your burnout and
when you are done, release the button and your front brakes release.
Regards,
Lionel Chichioco
90 AWD Tsi, IRC nick=LC303
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 10:55:40 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Alarm Disable Question (1G,T,AWD)
Message-ID: <#39>
>Tried pulling the fuse last night under the dash. It disabled the
>horn, but the alarm still operated, i.e. the lights flashed. However,
>this also disabled the horn completely (then what is the f%%$&*ing horn
>fuse for?!?!?!). I then tried pulling the relay under the dash....
>system still worked. I then tried all permutations of this.....same
>effect.
Frank,
I'm not sure what relay you pulled under the dash, but here's my $.02:
On my Galant, the P.O. had disabled the factory alarm horn (becuase he
installed an aftermarket one) by unplugging the horn from the relay
which flashes/honks them.
When I first bought my Galant, I always used the aftermarket alarm
remote to lock/unlock the doors. Once when a friend locked the doors
manually upon leaving the car, it apparently armed the factory alarm.
Thus, when I opened the doors without using my key (I used the
remote), it set off the alarm. The horn had been unplugged from the
relay so it didn't honk, but I noticed the reflection of my headlights
flashing in the store window. I could hear the relay clicking on and
off, and followed the noise to the relay and just unplugged the lights
from the relay. (Luckily, my friend had a GSX and recognized the
flashing lights as part of the factory alarm and not some weird
electrical gremlin. :-) )
In my case the relay was located in the engine bay, on the driver's
side, attached to the firewall (by the hood hinge).
This didn't affect normal operation of the lights or the horn.
Hope this helps.
Vel
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 12:56:44 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Kiwon Park <kekipark@umich.edu>
Subject: WANTED: HEADERS FOR NON-TURBO
Message-ID: <#40>
hey gang!
i only have two more steps to go until im done with my car.
headers and a new ECU which im not even sure works....
anyways, if anybody has headers they want to sell to me, new or excellent
condition used, please email me.
and, if anyone knows where i can buy one, id appreciate it just as
much.
QUESTION.
what does the exhaust manifold have to do with headers?
why do some magazines call headers exhaust manifolds and vice versa?
thanks a bunch
kevin park
97 RS
------------------------------
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id RAA02806
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 12:00:05 -0800
Sender: owner-talon
Precedence: list
[Anyone know for sure whether the RX-7 injectors work in our
cars (as 550s)? Any of you guys with RX-7s, could you check
the size of the injectors and see if they might fit in our
cars? -talon mgr]
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) Michael Scandura
(2g, t) Window problems
2) paul lyons
OKC DSM's [all]
3) Scott Borders
T3/T4 hybrid not feasible (for me, anyway) [2G]
4) Wallace Tam
winter tires [2G,T]
6) Victor DelCol-YEGR07 Re: Monte Carlo
7) Shindley
statement
8) myercd01
1G T, Wheels
9) Julian Liu
Struct noise/idle screw/rear seat
10) tony wilhelm
shootout 97 plant tour
11) Rob
92 GSX - What to look for?
12) Dean
1gT Cosmetic Diff?
13) Name Withheld Upon R 1G,T
14) Tom Stangl
Ray Parks/MDSOG
15) The4Bangr
HOTEL RESERVATIONS-GET THEM NOW!!!!
16) Andrea Lin
Exshaust Housing for the Turbo
17) TStreed
Alamo
line-locks et al; NOS
19) Stanley Moskal
{2g,t,awd,a/t] fuel tank recall
20) Jarrod Igou
Door switch corrosion
21) Eric Herring
Bad dealer, ISC, BOV
22) gselph
Peeling dash foam
23) Jim McKenna
re: retreads
24) Rich d'Erizans
Dash Rattle [2G]
25) robrien
burnouts without rolling
26) Dennison Lee
[1g,t] My driveshaft noise, fpr solenoid
27) M3GTVR4
<2G/T> Parts for sale
28) robrien
TAD Motorsports
29) jim_jordan
RE: Remanufactured tires
30) markp
fuel pressure regulators (1G, T), fuel cut (again)
31) HCKaiser
[1G], [T] 3" Exhaust for sale
32) T. Wahjudi
[2G,AWD] 15" Wheels on AWD
33) Steve Ungar
[1G] Quirky Anti-Lock warning light
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 13:17:41 -0700 (MST)
From: Michael Scandura <syrinx@IMAP2.ASU.EDU>
Subject: (2g, t) Window problems
Message-ID: <#1>
My passenger's window is having trouble rolling up and down. When its
closed there is a *bang* (not loud of course but hard sounding) as it comes
down from the weather stripping and on the way up there is another bang when
its about 1/4 up. Sounds like its loose in its track but the window seems
stable if I jiggle it. Also, it only seems to do this when the door is shut
so it really sounds like an alignment problem. My driver's window rattles a
bit when its warm (like many of ours) but not like this.
What concerns me is I'm aware of window seating problems with the first gen
cars and I hope this isn't a problem with 2nd gen. Has anyone else had
this? I know frameless windows are less sturdy but I try to take care
closing the doors with the windows fully up or down so they don't rattle too
much - or when my passenger slams the door =<
Thanks for the feedback. I have an oil change and fuel tank recall
appointment coming up - I guess I'll add this to the list. Why do I worry
that after the dealer opens up the doors to fix this that things probably
won't be the same!?
Mike
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 97 14:40 CST
From: phlyons@mailhost.ecn.uoknor.edu (paul lyons)
Subject: OKC DSM's [all]
Message-ID: <#2>
Hi everybody
I just wanted to know if there any other fellow dsm'ers here in OKC. I know
there must be a few but I have yet to meet you. I'd like to discuss the
trials and tribulations of DSM ownership with you. thanks.
Paul Lyons (Pauley-Man)
90 Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 16:13:58 +0000
Subject: T3/T4 hybrid not feasible (for me, anyway) [2G]
Message-ID: <#3>
Sorry if I got anyone's hopes up wrt the 2nd gen turbo upgrade.
My source was wrong about the T3/T4 being a bolt-in . . . the turbo
*can* be had for only $750, but it also requires a custom exhaust
manifold to mount it on (another $575). So, if anyone out there
does want to take the plunge with a T3/T4, it can be done.
Unfortunately, that's out of my price range (and my comfort level
for being a guinea pig), so I'm back to looking at the T25 hybrid
or the 16G.
Tory Blue was kind enough to give me some info on his upgrade . . .
it's a 16G, but it has been built so the compressor housing faces
down, like the T25. I'm trying to collect data points, so if anyone
else out there has a similarly modified 16G on a 2nd gen, please
e-mail me with your impressions (Tory gave it a thumbs up, btw).
Thanks,
Scott Borders
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 14:33:17 -0800 (PST)
From: Wallace Tam <wwtam@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: winter tires [2G,T]
Message-ID: <#4>
Hello all,
I wanted to thank those who replied to my ski rack question. I can't
recommend Yakima for 2G owners, as they couldn't figure out a good
installation for my 97 Tsi AWD. It seemed as if it was suppose to clip
onto the plastic window holder thingie (sorry for the technical term).
I ended up getting a Rhode Gear bicycle rack and attaching a set of Yakima
button down sixes. Email me if you want to know what I did.
Now I was considering getting a winter set of wheels in addtion to the
stock 17". Anyone have any luck putting in 215/75/15 w/o suspension mod?
I forget what the stock offset, and what the minimum allowable offset,
someone was talking about that for their 235/40/17 or something like that.
What kind of offset would I need for the 215/75/15, if possible?
I was hoping to get a little more snow clearance, and trick the odo into
recording a little less miles. I know the speedo will be off. =)
TIA
wallace
97 Tsi AWD
89 5.0 (LOTS of fun in the snow!)
-----------------------------Date: Wed,Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 18:59:30 -0600
Subject: Re: Monte Carlo
Message-ID: <#6>
Michael you need a quick history lesson. Once upon a time there where some
strangely designed vehicles around. They had RWD (rear wheel dive) which is
a way of putting all the weight of the engine as far away from the drive
wheels as possible. These cars also had "Drum Brakes" a system which is
good at keeping the dirt off the braking surfaces and keeping the heat in.
They also had a engine known as a V8 (not the juice drink). For its hugh
size and weight it was very inefficient at producing power. Admittedly
they are very good at producing torque which can be useful some times. The
last factor required to produce this effect is an AT (automatic
transmission) a word that should never appear in the same sentence as
sports car. (oops.)
With all this the effect is simple. One foot on the brake and one foot on
the gas. The weight of the engine over the front wheels keeps the car from
moving and the drum brakes won't stop the rear wheels from spinning.
Every once in a while on a dry summer day and a long straight road I miss
my Camaro. Otherwise I'm glad I sold that dinosaur.
Victor Del Col
95 TSi AWD, Toronto
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 21:26:59 -0600
Subject: statement
Message-ID: <#7>
Fellow DSM'ers:
A week ago I posted a long gripe I had about Alamo. I have not received
any flames for being such a fool (thank you), however, I managed to
upset some Alamo employees. No, I am not being sued!
I write this out of guilt. It made me feel badly about saying what I did
and I have learned that I hurt some feelings at Alamo. I am sorry, guys.
I had three minutes of satisfaction and a week of "oh, damn"! I was
wrong.
The employees of Alamo have always done their best to help me when I
call. I took a cynical view the other day and dismissed all of their
past help in a moment of misunderstanding. I should have kept my
feelings to myself.
Thanks.
Rick
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 23:13:51 -0500 (EST)
From: myercd01@holmes.ipfw.indiana.edu
Subject: 1G T, Wheels
Message-ID: <#8>
I called Tire Rack today to place an order for some new wheels for my '92
Talon AWD. I was looking at the Kosei S5R in 17x8 but when I told them
that I had a talon they told me that I could only get a 7 inch wide tire.
They told me that Eagle's/Mitsu's and other foreign car have very tight
specs for the wheel to funtion properly even if it is dropped. I asked
him if it is because of the offset and he said it was. I also told him
that I know of many people who have 17x8 inch wheels and they seem to work
well and he had no answer. I was going to put 225/45/17 tires on and it
should work. Let me know who is wrong here because I really want these
wheels. If I have to I will buy them elseware.
I was flipping through the new Sport Compact Car magazine the other day
and there was a picture of a nice 95+ Talon so I had to have it. When I
got home and read the article I was pissed that I spent $3.50 on it.
Basicly they should have had just pictures (which were great) and left out
the lousy article. They didn't give any specific upgrades to the car.
They left me hanging I wanted more info and they finished before they had
a good start. From the pictures I could tell the Talon had a front mount
intercooler but this was not stated in the article. Neither where any
turbo upgrades. They did state that it ran the 1/4 in 12.53 at about
109mph. It serves me right for not reading it before I bought it. Check
it out for yourself. Of course they had lots of Acura's and honda's in it
(you have to have those, ya right).
Craig Myers
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 20:43:58 PST
From: Julian Liu <jliu@hpctn9.corp.hp.com>
Subject: Struct noise/idle screw/rear seat
Message-ID: <#9>
Hello All,
Being stuck at work for over 12 hours and being 8:30pm, I had began
and finished catching up with 1 1/2 months of digests. Here are my
thoughts of problems posted earlier:
Danielle: When I installed some kyb struts a long time ago the front
struts made noise as I made full lock on turns. The hole in the upper
spring mount is off centered. If you don't position the mount
correctly (meaning off centered hole closer to the engine),
during full lock it will rotate and hit the strut tower and make
noise.
Idle screw: I lost the idle screw rubber cap when I took my car in for
smog check a few years ago. The screw kept backing out and
caused fast idle and idle surge. I adjusted the idle and timing
then put a bit of Loctite on the screw and the idle has remained
the same since.
Dean: Just remove the rear seats. They are not for human and not
for sitting in anyway. I took mine out and built a box for my
amp and crossovers. Another advantage is when you go out to lunch
with 2 or 3 people, you can say you only have a two seater and never
have to drive.
Regards,
JL SOLAR
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 00:05:10 +0500
Subject: shootout 97 plant tour
Message-ID: <#10>
Hey all,
May 16 is rapidly approaching. I have decided to help Todd out
by attempting to organize a tour of the Mitsubishi Plant in Normal, IL
the day before the shootout.
If you are planning to attend the shootout in Norwalk, OH and you
would be interested in touring their facility please e-mail me so
I can get a acurate estimate of the number of people for the tour.
We will meet some where outside of Normal and all drive to the
plant together.
hope to see as many of you there as can come.
tony wilhelm (irc gsx96)
black gsx (for daylight use only)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 00:29:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Rob <rob@tsdc.com>
Subject: 92 GSX - What to look for?
Message-ID: <#11>
I'm about to take the plunge and buy a 92 Eclipse GSX from a dealer. Car
has 60k miles and has had the timing belt done. Drove ok, clutch slipped a
couple times and missed a couple shifts but I was driving really timidly so
they could've been all my fault. Oil looked clean, as was the paint. So
can anyone recommend anything else that I should look at in particular on
this car, or have my mechanic look over when it goes to him? Speaking of
which, can anyone recommend a good DSM mechanic in the Pittsburgh, PA
area?
I'd like to publicly thank Michael Kline and Jon Bennet for their help on
this so far, as well as LoQuito from IRC (I was armorer). Todd, keep up the
great work and I hope to be contributing soon!
~ Rob
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 00:18:53 -0600 (CST)
Subject: 1gT Cosmetic Diff?
Message-ID: <#12>
Those of you with a 1gT Talon or Eclipse with the black roofs (do just
the turbo models have black roofs?) I'm wondering if there's yet another
cosmetic difference in the Talon and Eclipse - like in the side mirror
housings....
I'm thinking that the Talons (I can verify on a 90-91 Tsi) have painted
side mirror housings. And I'm thinking the Eclipses have just have plain
black plastic housings.
On a 91 Eclipse that I've had since it was new, in it's latter years,
the side mirror plastic showed signs of weathering (although the car was
well taken care of!) On the 91 GSX I acquired recently, the side
mirrors are in dire need of repainting as well.
Now I've seen Talons with 100K miles on them, and the side mirror housing
look very good and shiny. Some of these Talons may/may not have been
owned since new, but gosh the condition of the mirror housings are great.
So digest owners, has anyone else noticed this, can you Talon owners send
me some mail and enlighten me? And can you paint gurus inform me on the
steps to go about repainting the housings?
Thanks,
Dean, 2 91 Eclipses so far, both with crummy looking side mirrors...
ag97@tamu.edu
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 15 Jan 1997 23:52:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Name Withheld Upon Request <ucoogj00@ucsb.edu>
Subject: 1G,T
Message-ID: <#13>
The altenator in my 91 tsi gave out. the car has about 52000 miles on it.
Is it common on these cars for this to happen? Also the local dealer
strongly recommended I stay away from rebuilds any buy the $600 new one.
This is toooo much for this college student. So, I was wondering if I
should heed his warning/advice, if rebuilds have major problems on these
cars or just simply don't last as long and thats the only worry I should
have about them(rebuilt altenators). Any info from those who know or have
gone through this would be greatly appreciated.-Jason Coogler
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 00:45:17 -0800
Subject: Ray Parks/MDSOG
Message-ID: <#14>
Welllll, I'm going to give MY side of the story. Ray helped me out
IMMENSELY during my rebuild, giving good advice, and told me flat out
when to order from the local dealer. he also helped me GET a 20%
discount from the local dealer due to the leverage of his discount. If
I had not needed the parts FAST, I would have ordered them from Ray.
>
>
>
>
>
>The local dealer grants me 20% off new Mitsu parts and had a
>new "loaded" head for my car for $937 (my cost) plus tax.
When Rick told me this I advised him to buy the head from his local
dealer.
Ray will definitely do this.
> >The bare head was quoted to me as $930 and I would have to buy valves
> >and lot of other things to complete the head
>
> The list price was $1250.00 do the math...big discount.
No argument there, MDSOG has GOOD discounts on factory parts.
> >I felt as though Alamo was playing me for a fool.
>
> We wouldn't do this to anyone. You have my word.
I'd tend to believe Ray here - he told me when NOT to waste money, just
as DaveB does.
Tom Stangl
1990 Talon AWD
1992 Laser AWD
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:33:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: HOTEL RESERVATIONS-GET THEM NOW!!!!
Message-ID: <#15>
HERE'S THE SCOOP~!
Here is a list of local motels for you guys to stay in for this years event.
NO roach motels this year. These are all fairly new, except the L&K, and it
is nice enough the regular guys have been staying there and liking it.
There's only 20 rooms at the L&K.
This list I am getting ready to type for you guys will be listed from the
hotel closest to the track to the one furthest from the track. When you
call please start at the top of the list and work your way down. This way we
can fill each hotel with DS's. There are a few reasons for this. The number
one reason is NOISE. If is a hotel full of just us no one will cry about the
exhausts or getting a little loud late at night in the parking lot. The
other is nothing will give you wood like (can I say that?) an entire parking
lot full of modified DS's! So PLEASE start at the top and work down. Call
NOW and reserve a room! They don't bill you until then and you can cancel if
you don't show, but get the room reserved now. The race is Friday the 16th
with an entire day of activities the day after which is Saturday the 17th.
IF it rains out there is a CHANCE that we will have a rain date scheduled at
Thompson Raceway for Sunday the 18th. I hope it doesn't rain, Thompson is
almost 2 hours East of here. This is great for the guys traveling back to
NY, PA, MD, NJ etc. So, here is the list:
L&K Motel
283 Benedict Ave, Norwalk
419-668-8255
[This is full. I just tried it. -talon mgr]
Econolodge
342 Milan Ave, Norwalk
419-668-5656
Comfort Inn
11020 US RT 250 (one block North of Ohio Turnpike)
419-499-4681
Super 8
11313 US RT 250
419-499-4671
Thanks and please call soon to try to fill the hotels with DS's. Like I said
start at the top and go down. If someone calls and they tell you that they
have booked please contact me and I will call to verify and then make a post
to the net. Thanks again.
David Buschur
Buschur Racing.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 97 07:52:10 MST
From: "Andrea Lin" <Andrea_Lin_at_JEPP16@SMTP-GW.jeppesen.com>
Subject: Exshaust Housing for the Turbo
Message-ID: <#16>
Hi there;
I wonder if anybody has Exshaust Housing for turbo that is in a
good condition. NO CRACK. If so please e-mail me with the details.
Thanks
Yao.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 08:51:42 -0600
From: TStreed@rres.com
Subject: Alamo
Message-ID: <#17>
I have never done any business with Alamo, so I have neither a good or
bad opinion of the service they provide.
However, in general, I do not think someone should have to "call and
bitch" because the invoice price is not the same as the quoted price. In
my opinion, it is Alamo's responsibility to insure the quoted price is
the same as the invoice price. After all, they are the one who set the
price, not the customer. If your system of pricing controls can not
accommodate phone quotes, don't do it. I respect Alamo's willingness to
stand behind their products, and re-invoice if the pricing is wrong, but
the problem shouldn't be there in the first place.
It seems to me this whole "international conspiracy" could have been
avoided if Alamo had better control of their prices and products.
Just my 2 cents...
Todd Streed
91 Talon TSI
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 07:34:14 -0800
Subject: line-locks et al; NOS
Message-ID: <#18>
Hello all of you butt-kicking DSM pilotsI said...
>Old RWD trick called a "line lock". Basically a solenoid in the brake
>line to the rear brakes. You press the brake pedal, hit a button
>(activating a solenoid in the high-pressure portion of the brake line)
>and release the brake pedal. The front brakes are relieved, but the
>rears are held in the "stop" position by the solenoid.
Sorry, I am obviously confused with the concept of "front" and "rear"...
again, something you can ask my ex girlfriend. Just kidding. I know
the difference.
James said...
>I have heard some people on the 5.0 digest state that running over 200 HP
>NOS on virtually stock intake/headed`engines did not produce any more
HP >due to limitations of the stock intake/heads
I think this is correct... at least partially. I had a 1968 Mercury
Cougar with a "crate" 351W, running a 150 shot of NOS (direct port). On
the motor, it would do 13.00 at Terminal Island. With the NOS, I was
only running 12.1. Now I don't know about the rest of you, but a 150
shot should darn well be worth more than 9/10's! I ran a Holley 750
double pumper... changed to a Holley 1050 Dominator and gained about
1/10. Never got into the science of screwing with the intake manifold,
but the heads were stock SVO.
Dave said...
>no sleep, no stops on a Honda Custom 400. Man I was crazy for women.
>ha ha ha
That's why you bought a DSM, right? ;-)
C-YA 'round sometimeScott scott@overboost.com
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:41:41 -0600 (CST)
Subject: {2g,t,awd,a/t] fuel tank recall
Message-ID: <#19>
I had my fuel tank done yesterday(1/15) at Mancari Chrysler Plymouth
Jeep/Eagle in Orland Hills, IL. I dropped it off the night before and
recieved the its done call at 3:30 PM the next day. I recieved 12.4 gallons
of gas from them after the job was done. Based on the following conversation
with a service rep. I believe it represents $17 worth.
rep: how much gas is in it
me(in South Side accent); I was good to you guys, there's only about a
gallon left.
rep: you know you get 17 gallons,its in the recall
me: that would be a neat trick getting 17 gallons in a 15.9 gallon tank
rep: I mean they allot 17 dollars
That ends this weeks installment of Car Dealer theatre.
The guy also told me that they had done 4-5( which changed to 3-4 after I
started to quiz him a bit) before mine and that it takes them 3-4 hours to
do it. All in all I'm satisfied with what they did. if you don't hear from
me in a week I give them my unconditional endorsement for the fuel tank
recall. It should be interesting to see if my inaccurate fuel guage problem
goes a way( I won't bore you with this journey into the bowels hell).
Stan
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:45:36 -0600
From: Jarrod Igou <jigou@rconnect.com>
Subject: Door switch corrosion
Message-ID: <#20>
Damian wrote:
>It was a problem with the
>door pins having corrosion on them -- works fine now!!
Has anyone else had problems with this? My 90 Laser has had this problem.
I'm wondering if this is fairly common in the harsher climates. Seems that
the switch in the lower rear corner of the door is a pretty silly place to
put it....
Any fixes to keep them from re-corroding?
Jarrod
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 12 Jan 97 08:15:36
From: Eric Herring <EricH@QEI.COM>
Subject: Bad dealer, ISC, BOV
Message-ID: <#21>
Well i just thought i'd warn all of you about Mesa Mitsubishi in Mesa,
AZ. After doing a few of the basic cleaning tips for the throttle body
(from Terry's Talon troubleshooting tips) i took our 90 Eclipse GSX to
the dealer to see if they could fix it, 2 days and about $750(mostly
unrelated seals and stuff) later we picked it up at the dealer. It was
idling a little better but a few days later we noticed that on cold
mornings it was idling at about 3-400 rpm and stalling. I turned up the
base idle a tad to keep it from stalling but then developed a real bad
case of idle surge. Last weekend i decide to tackle this myself, when i
took off the T.B. elbow i noticed something stuffed into the hole that
goes down to the lower Throttle Body, IT WAS STUFFED FULL OF ELECTRICAL
TAPE (Must be an ex-Honda mechanic :-) ). After removing and opening up
the T.B. there was also a bolt stuck in there holding open some valve??
well anyway after removing all of the dealer modifications and spraying a
bunch of carb cleaner all over it now idles fine. It turns out the
thermostat was stuck open and the ISC is totally dead which leads me to
my next question.
Does anyone know where i can get a deal on an ISC motor?
For anyone who has crushed the stock BOV. How much do you crush it? Are
there any pictures anywhere?
Thanks in advance,
Eric Herring
90 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 97 11:17:16 EST
Subject: Peeling dash foam
Message-ID: <#22>
>Does anyone have a fix for the peeling dash? It is right where the top
>section and the bottom meet. Has anyone tried hot glue?
I used an adhesive called Black Rubber Glue that I found at Home Depot. It
was the ONLY glue on the shelf that didn't say "Not intended for use on foam
rubber." It comes in white or black and has a picture of a tennis shoe on
the front of the package.
I tried hot glue (I work for an industrial adhesive application equipment
manufacturer) and it would only melt the foam. There is a lower temperature
foam-based adhesive applicator that would have worked, but my boss would
not
let me drive my car into our development lab to apply it :)
Speaking of our lab, I've been working over the past few months with some
data acquisiton software called LabVIEW by National Instruments. It has
automotive related programs available and simply needs a laptop and a few
sensors to create a rolling engine laboratory. Kinda pricey, but available.
Take care,
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 11:39:07 -0500
Subject: re: retreads
Message-ID: <#23>
Benny wrote:
>~Tires are soft for some reasons, like Mickey Thomson Street legal Slick.
> (of course won't be as good as Mickey Thomson, i think)
>~I think if you don't race and drive slow like my Mon, then those tires
> are good. But if you need the tires to drag, then I don't think so.
Ah ha! You've just stumbled upon a WELL-kept secret that the "big guys"
have known for quite awhile. SOFT COMPOUND RETREADS! Do you
have any idea how well these things hook up at the track? Who cares about
the speed rating, these suckers are sticky! Try them, you'll like the results.
Jim McKenna
1990 FWD Laser RS Turbo
IRC nick = BlakRoket
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 10:03:37 -0500
From: "Rich d'Erizans" <derizans@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Dash Rattle [2G]
Message-ID: <#24>
Over the past few months my '95 Talon seems to have developed a loud
"plastic-on-plastic" rattle that sounds like it's coming from the area
of the center A/C vents. It almost sounds like one of the plastic ducts
is loose and rattling against something else that's hard plastic. It
only happens over relatively sharp bumps, but it's getting worse.
Has anyone else run into this and solved it? The dealer just keeps
taping up wires...<sigh>. If not, is it easy to remove the plastic trim
covering those two vents? I don't play around too much with my car, so
I have no idea what something like that might entail. It looks pretty
straightforward, though.
Someone had mentioned in yesterday's digest about a problem with radio
volume going down when adjusting it UP. I've had the same problem, but
it hasn't been bad enough for me to mention it to the dealer. I'm
assuming the Infinity? No solution, yet, although my guess is that the
radio is just barely getting the power it needs and when you try to turn
it up, the current isn't there.
Thanks for any help on the rattle!
Rich
'95 Talon TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 10:42:22 -0600
Subject: burnouts without rolling
Message-ID: <#25>
try putting the car in first, then pull the parking brake just enough
to stop the car from rolling, then get ready to launch.
Concentrate on the gas and clutch with your feet, and the e-brake
with your right hand. Your hand can easliy move from the e-brake
handle to the shifter without looking at it. I have used this
techinique for years with great success.
see ya'
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 09:33:32 -0800
From: Dennison Lee <den@skyinternet.ca>
Subject: [1g,t] My driveshaft noise, fpr solenoid
Message-ID: <#26>
If you recall my post regarding my driveshaft noise, I haven't really solved
it yet. However, when this happened about 2 years ago, it was still under
warranty and I was able to dig out the work order for it. The dealer
replaced the two center support bearings and the center driveshaft.
After looking at the service manual, these bearings require some grease when
installing them. So what I'm gonna do is put some grease on the bearings
and see if it solves the noise problem.
Does anyone know the part number for the Fuel pressure regulator solenoid?
The dealer has no idea what it is. Apparently in their parts catalogue, the
section where the solenoid is located is just labelled as relays with a
list of part numbers.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 12:48:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: <2G/T> Parts for sale
Message-ID: <#27>
Hi everybody, I have the following for sale so that I could upgrade to 3"
exhaust system.
5 months old HK$ exhaust system - $350
3 months old 2.5" downpipe(mandrel bend, chrome plated, flex section) - $200
All prices does not include shipping. Thanks.
Lee
96' Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 11:13:29 -0600
Subject: TAD Motorsports
Message-ID: <#28>
I want to commend Vel for his writing in the defense of TAD
Motorsports.
I also have had nothing but positive experiences with TAD.
All of the work that has been done on my 92 Galant VR4 has been done
at TAD - and there have been no problems with anything that they have
done for me.
Bob
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 97 13:36:31
Subject: RE: Remanufactured tires
Message-ID: <#29>
I have used remanufactured tires and IMO they are simply too dangerous
to use for anything other than around town driving. Here's why:
1. The adhesive compound used to glue the new tread onto the tire
softens with extended highway driving, especially in warm weather.
Over time, this can cause the new tread to separate from the tire. You
can imagine the results if that happens at the speeds most of us
drive.
2. Someone mentioned that the speed rating of the retreaded tire is
reduced. Well, what most of these retread tire vendors don't tell you
is in reality the speed rating is reduced to no better than 'S' for
the tire, regardless of the tire's original rating. Reducing the
rating by a level or two is bullsh$t.
3. Quality control is low to nonexistent. I've purchased retreads that
went flat within 24 hours of installation, This happened not once, but
twice! Eight tires and none of them would hold air for more than a
day. Then the set which did hold air almost got me killed when one of
the tires disintegrated on the turnpike.
These are my opinions, but you don't have to take my word for it. Just
cruise down any major highway and count the hunks of tread laying on
the side of the road. I haven't used retreads in years and never will
again. I can think of better ways to risk my neck. :^)
I just got my DaveB BOV! (I know, big fr#@$ing deal. But it's my first
mod!). Compared to the stock unit, this thing looks like it means
business. I can't wait to strap it on this weekend. I'm not expecting
miracles but Dave says I should be able to feel the difference and
even a little better performance is worth it. Besides, it looks and
works better than the crappy little plastic thingy they put on the 2nd
gens.
Jim 95GST
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 97 12:12:50 MDT
Subject: fuel pressure regulators (1G, T), fuel cut (again)
Message-ID: <#30>
has anyone used a different fuel pressure regulator?
George has mentioned using one made by paxton (?),
has anyone used anything else, including one from
a normally aspirated T/E/L.
according to the tech manual, the regulator from
the normally aspirated car regulates the fuel pressure to
46 psi above manifold; according to the graph provided,
would appear to maintain that behavior into positive manifold
pressure (boost).
the manifold from the turbo T/E/Ls maintains fuel pressure at
34 psi above manifold -- would seem like a simple swap, for
those w/ a larger fuel pump. has anyone done this?
I would then expect to run shorter injector pulses during closedloop operation; my question to the experts out there (that's you,
Todd,) is will this shorter injector pulse width be carried over
into open-loop operation, and so raise the fuel-cut limit ? an
overview of what gets carried from closed-loop to open loop would
be appreciated.
[Fuel cut is based on airmass/cyl, not injector width. -talon mgr]
George Dold, have you measured injector pulse widths under boost
w/ different fuel pressures? what have you seen?
thanks,
Mark Pilon
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 14:14:47 -0500
From: HCKaiser@aol.com
Subject: [1G], [T] 3" Exhaust for sale
Message-ID: <#31>
I have a new, mandrel-bent, 3" exhaust sitting in its box in my garage. It
is made by Applied Technologies and is high quality stainless steel. I sold
my car before I could install it. It is made for AWD vehicles. Please send
reasonable offers to me at HCKaiser@aol.com.
Charles
Miami, Fl
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 14:20:26 -0500
From: wahjudi.1@postbox.acs.ohio-state.edu (T. Wahjudi)
Subject: [2G,AWD] 15" Wheels on AWD
Message-ID: <#32>
Hi all,
I'm wondering if anyone in the US with 2G AWD DSM has tried to use
15" snow tires/wheels. The price on 15" snow tires is much cheaper than
16" but Tire Rack doesn't know if their 15" Mitsu alloy wheels will fit our
cars. Any other suggestions ? Can I use 15" wheels from other cars ?
TIA.
PS : 14" wheels from ESi wouldn't fit, would they ?
Thomas Wahjudi
-----------------------------Date:
Wed, 15 Jan 1997 13:05:41 -0500
From: sungar@claritas.com (Steve Ungar)
Subject: [1G] Quirky Anti-Lock warning light
Message-ID: <#33>
<<Has anyone ever figured out why the Anti-Lock warning light comes on
(solid) while you're driving and won't go out until you power cycle
the car?>>
After I'd had my car (91 Talon AWD) for about a year, I had very
similar problems. Driving along doing nothing out of the ordinary and
the ABS light would come on. Happened about once a week or so.
Turning the car off and back on cleared the problem.
Took it to the dealer and they said the unit at one of the wheels
(can't remember exactly what - I'll look through my records and find
out if necessary) was bad. They said they'd never seen one go bad
before. I guess I'm just lucky!
They replaced the unit, and I left. A week or so later the same thing
started happening. Took it back. They said the unit at another wheel
was bad, as well as the central ABS system. They replaced everything
under the extended warranty ($1500+ in parts/labor). This seemed to
fix the warning light problem, but I've never been overly confident of
the ABS in my car.
-Steve
91 Talon AWD
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 12:00:10 -0800
Sender: owner-talon
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) Gary Clouse
Header and exhaust manifolds
2) Isaac Crow
1G 1.8L
3) Tom Stangl
550 injectors ?
5) MHGSX
Re: Various 2 G, T
6) Vel Natarajan
another Ford war-story
7) Philip Weaver
FS: Boston Acoustic RC-61 Speakers
8) Mciveron
[2g] Exhaust choices
9) The4Bangr
IRRATATED
10) Michael Breslin
Fluids...
11) Joseph M. Cicali
Carbon fiber dash kit
12) Daniel C. Lee
Blizzak snow and ice tires
13)
14)
15)
16)
17)
18)
19)
20)
21)
22)
23)
24)
25)
26)
27)
28)
29)
30)
31)
32)
33)
34)
35)
36)
37)
38)
39)
40)
41)
42)
43)
Michael
Calling Central Florida DSMers
Cory R Deeds
1991 Talon Tsi Wiring
jrmauldi
[2G,T] Used 95 Talon TSi
Ashok N. Babu
Biggest 17" Tires for 1GT
Bobby Bernauer
Interior
Larry MYHRE
exhaust
Lambert Knowles
1G AWD T
Larry MYHRE
Vibs
Karl Thoennes III [1g] paint condition (92 Talon)
Tom Stangl
How to crush the BOV
Kyle Munz
re:alternators & re:statement & re:What to look fo
Btalont
Tire Rack and more...
MARIO A. PENNYCOOKE 4k noise problem fixed
V8KILLR
For Sale & Mike @ Turbo Mag.
Kyle.Zingg
Door switch corrosion
Merritt, Sam (S.) Car/Parts for Sale
James Roth
Retreaded and Rebuilt tires - my experience (long)
Michael Kline
Thanks...
Robert Arrowood
Off Topic - Sorry
Robert Arrowood
Mirrors and Paint
gselph
Econolodge
guillermo_polo
Help
Robert Arrowood
various
Kyle Meyer
Re: Volume control probs
Jon Roberts
Archer Bros. Challenge Part II
dsspecial
BPR?EK-N/ Class for 95+ FWD turbo
Gabe Chung
tires and wheels
Stanley Moskal
platinum spark plugs
Tory M. Blue
RE: 3" FWD Catbacks - prjtrev@aol.com
Modifyd
Dave's Shootout
Eric Typpo
Mirrors, alternators & noise at the motels
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 14:15:07 -0600
Subject: Header and exhaust manifolds
Message-ID: <#1>
The difference between headers and exhaust manifolds. An exhaust
manifold connects several exhaust ports to one exaust pipe. A header is
an exhaust manifold designed so the distance from each port to the
exhaust pipe is the same. A standard manifold spreads out like the
fingers on a hand and the length of the center pipes in the manifold are a
bit shorter thean the ones on the sides. The exhaust pulses (the putts)
for the to middle cylinders will arrive at the exhaust pipe while the
previous exhaust pulse in still there, causing some backpressure into the
cylinder. Headers have some extra bends in the center pipes to make
them longer so the exhaust pulses are phased and minimize back presure
on the cylinders, allowing the engine to breather easier and making the
engine more efficient.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 16:04:48 -0500
From: Isaac Crow <Isaac@avana.net>
Subject: 1G 1.8L
Message-ID: <#2>
Can anyone give me contact info for Archer Bros.? I am looking for a
new complete engine for my 1990 1.8L Laser.
[Check the vendors page on the website. -talon mgr]
Thanks,
Isaac Crow
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 13:11:24 -0800
Subject: 550 injectors ?
Message-ID: <#3>
Guys, I need some help. I may actually be getting to the point already
where it is safer to swap to 550 injectors (YES, with the STOCK turbo),
and even if NOT, I want to put them on and get them working via Todd's
tweaks ;-)
The problem is, they're too damn expensive! I got wiped out by my
engine repair, but I NEED these things.
So my questions are:
- Do the RX7s injectors fit
- if so, what year and which injectors, and are they 550cc?
- if not, what injectors am I looking for?
- Does anyone have a set of 550s laying around they will sell cheaply?
My goal is to find EIGHT used injectors, and have them cleaned, flow
tested, and matched. I need 2 complete sets available if at all
possible. I need PURE bolt-ins, no modding involved (well, REAL minimal
is OK, if it can be done cheaply).
I'd like to get 550s installed and tested in Feb, so everyone's help is
appreciated.
Oh, yeah, I also need to verify if the RX7 injectors are the correct
TYPE too - some are low resistance, high current, some are high
resistance, low current. I've been told ours are low resistance, high
current peak hold injectors.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 16:28:05 -0500 (EST)
From: MHGSX@aol.com
Subject: Re: Various 2 G, T
Message-ID: <#5>
Hello from Chicago. The snow we gat yesterday made the commute a real
slip-n-slide event. This led me to ponder the following question: Can I
apply the emergency brake while the car is moving? Will this cause any
damage to the diffs? I have a '95 AWD w/LSD.
The other question is has anyone out there replaced their seats on their 2
G,T? I'm looking for a seat that has more support, is lighter, has slots for
shoulder harnesses, has seatback recline, has seat height
adjustablility(cause girlfriend is short), and comes in matching leather. Am
I asking for the impossible?
Thanx in advance,
Medardo "Sonny" Hernandez.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 15:45:12 -0600 (CST)
Subject: another Ford war-story
Message-ID: <#6>
Whipped another blue-oval product yesterday...
Yesterday in Chicago, we got a good dumping of snow. About 4-6" ring
rush-hour. Snow plows couldn't even keep up with clearing the streets,
so the streets were nice & messy.
(So who COULDN'T beat a Mustang in weather that's not perfectly dry,
right? Of course, but this was a Bronco II.)
At about 10pm when the streets were deserted, I decided to start up
the Galant and go out and practice slippery weather driving. After
about 45 minutes of driving thru unplowed streets, power-slides,
practicing getting the car sideways, recovering, etc. I still haven't
met a 4x4 I could "test" my car against. I pull up at a light and a
Bronco II pulls up next to me. The high-school kid looks over and
stares down at me. I look up at him, laugh, and turn to watch the
light turn. He inches up, I rev it, and do the same. When the light
turned green, he starts to go, spins, and his tail end goes out. He's
off the gas. I spin, my tail end goes, but I keep on the throttle,
and the Galant takes off, Blizzaks biting and gripping. I look back
and see him trying to spin and catch up, but it's too late. He makes
a quick turn into McDonalds before the next red light we were pulling
up to...
Normally, beating a Bronco is nothing to brag about, but it's nice
putting the SUV crowd in it's place too...
oh yeah, I had the boost set to 8psi (EVC was OFF). :-)
Vel
-----------------------------Date: 16 Jan 1997 17:09 EST
From: "Philip Weaver" <pweaver@nortel.ca>
Subject: FS: Boston Acoustic RC-61 Speakers
Message-ID: <#7>
Hi,
I have a set of Boston Acoustic RC-61 Car Stereo speakers
that I removed from my '90 Talon Tsi. They were bought
new in 1996 and used 3 months before selling my car.
These are component speakers (separate 6.5" woofer, 1"
tweeter, and crossover) and are awesome for the money!
They fit with very little modification in the door/dash...
can provide details if interested. Would prefer local
buyers, but would consider shipping (I have the original
boxes/hardware).
Anyway, I paid $270 + tax for them...can be yours for $200.
Reply directly via email to pweaver@nortel.com.
Thanks,
Phil
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 16:38:00 -0600
From: Mciveron <Mciveron@concentric.net>
Subject: [2g] Exhaust choices
Message-ID: <#8>
Hi Digest Readers,
This is my first of many post to the digest! Just want to say the
digest along with the website is a great way to learn about are cars.
I am looking to get a catback exhaust system for my 95 AWD. I would
like a system mandrel bent, and has a definite louder sound over
stock,with most power gains possible. I would prefer a 3" system since
I do not want to upgrade in the future. So would anyone with knowledge
please email me with options including prices.
Thanks
Chad
(95 TSI AWD)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 18:58:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: IRRATATED
Message-ID: <#9>
Hi all,
I need to let everyone know a few new things that are business oriented.
First there is a new and improved WEB site going up. Should be faster to
load and easier to find. It will have alot more parts adn prices added to it
along with some 2nd generation information.
On another note everyone knows I lost my butt on the cat back systems I put
on sale for $225. That is fine I accepted it. I messed up and actually had
quite few guys offer to pay the shipping, thanks alot. I did decline those
though. Well today I realized how much all this shipping is costing me. I
have in the past always paid shipping on every item I sell. No more. I was
selling K&N breathers for $9 and then paying $3 to ship them, I guess I am
dumb. New rules are as follows:
I will pay shipping on any order in the continental US over $50.
I will not pay ANY shipping to Canada. I lost $100 on one of the exhausts I
shipped there.
Orders under $50 and under 2 pounds are an additional $3, over 2 pounds UPS
charges apply.
This is as fair as I can be. I took a $40,000 a year pay cut to do this full
time and have no benifits at all now. Everyone's gotta eat;)
On a side note the RWD is still coming along slowly, it now has a custom
firewall in it. The original was cut out to make more room and make the
tunnel cleaner looking. I guess I should have just built a full tube car!
Can't wait for it to be done.
The AWD head will be back tomorrow I hope and should have the car going
next
week.
Saturday morning the front mounts for the 90-94's WITH A/C will be
finished. So now I have kits for all of them with very little cutting or
grinding involved. Still uses the very short plumbing everyone saw on my
car. ALL mandrel bent stainless intercooler plumbing, top and bottom. 3"
mandrel bent aircleaner inlets too. Same price, $1350 complete.
Thanks,
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 19:05:19 -0500 (EST)
From: Michael Breslin <BRESLIN@kcgl1.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Fluids...
Message-ID: <#10>
Quick question...
Brake fluid/Clutch fluid. Does anyone have any experience with the various
DOT
4 brands? Specifically ATE or the Castrol(I think that's who makes it) LMA.
Also, are the Silicone DOT 5's worth the price and to what degree does the
system have to be purged to make the switch from Glycol to Silicone? Any
responses would be appreciated (RTP or otherwise). Thanks...
That is all...
Brez!
90 Laser RS-T
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 19:34:14 -0500
From: "Joseph M. Cicali" <jcicali@li.net>
Subject: Carbon fiber dash kit
Message-ID: <#11>
[2G]
Thanks to everyone about the battery postings. Sure is nice to have the
Optima in there with double the cranking power.
Has anyone used the carbon fiber dash kits for a 2G Eclipse and willing
to talk about it?
That plain grey interior is a little too institutional for me.
Thanks!
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 19:59:37 +0000
Subject: Blizzak snow and ice tires
Message-ID: <#12>
I have four top rated Bridegestone Blizzak snow and ice tires for sale! They
will fit any turbo DSM (16" size). I had them on my [2G,T]. I bought them
from the Tire Rack in early November '96 at $110 a piece; $440 for the 4.
They are practically brand new. I'm selling them because I sold my '95 AWD
and they won't fit on my new car. These tires handle any snowy and or icy
road as if it were dry. Best money I ever spent on tires. I am hooked and
will be buying a set for my new car. Will sell for $249 or best offer since
I have absolutely no use for them at this time. Call (617) 743-7344 days, or
(617) 961-5982 evenings and weekends.
Thanks for the bandwidth.
DL
Boston, MA
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 21:08:13 -0500
Subject: Calling Central Florida DSMers
Message-ID: <#13>
Hello, any Central Florida DSMers!
I tried to find some people here in my area a while ago and did find a
few, but I lost all my old addresses and messages from those who did
reply. I was wondering who else is around here. Maybe our area can get
together sometime and just show what each of us has done. Maybe a few
tips on local shops and experiences, etc.
Mike
'91 Laser RS Turbo
IRC: RS-Turbo
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 21:51:13 EST
From: crdeeds@juno.com (Cory R Deeds)
Subject: 1991 Talon Tsi Wiring
Message-ID: <#14>
Does anybody out there have any information about the power lock
wiring for and 1991 Talon Tsi. I would like to hook up my power locks to
my Clifford alarm system. I cannot find the Lock/Unlock wires. My locks
are frozen in this cold Michigan weather therefore I can't unlock my
doors with the key from the outside. (Not to mention I look pretty silly
climbing in through the hatch!) If you have any information please let
me know.
Thank you,
Cory Deeds
-----------------------------Date:
Thu, 16 Jan 1997 22:37:38 +0000
From: jrmauldi@cc10ss.unity.ncsu.edu
Subject: [2G,T] Used 95 Talon TSi
Message-ID: <#15>
I have a few questions.
I am considering buying a 95 Talon TSi from a local dealership. They are
asking $13,900 US for it and are advertising it as an AWD. It has 21,000
miles.
First, it is not an AWD, I checked under the rear and there is no
drivetrain at all. When I test drove it, I was also able to spin the
front tires (just to check!!). How much should I request that they
drop the price, since it is not an AWD and they are advertising it as
such?
[I would stay away from these guys. Anyone crooked enough to pull
this is bound to have a few more tricks up their sleeve. Also,
I would report them to your local district attorney. This is not
just a simple mistake. -talon mgr]
k
Also is there any thing (known problems) that I should look out for
with this year & model?
One more question, when the car was first started there was a
squealing coming from the engine.. Any ideas as to what this would
be?
Thanks,
Jason
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 21:44:13 -0600
From: "Ashok N. Babu" <ashokbabu@nwu.edu>
Subject: Biggest 17" Tires for 1GT
Message-ID: <#16>
I've got a '91 Talon TSi FWD.
I just talked to a guy at the Tire Rack about a new set of rims and tires. I
was looking at two wheels, one was 17 x 8 and the other was 17 x 7.5. Both
would fit my car but he said the biggest tire I could put was 225/45/17.
Otherwise there would be serious fit problems. Is this true??
I remember other list members putting 245's on their DSM's and I hoped to do
the same.
Let me know what your experience has been. BTW, I am looking at Borbet Type
M and O.Z. Competition.
Type M w/225/45/ZR17 Sumitomo HTR Z shipped=$1459
OZ Competition w/same rubber=$1715
Ashok Babu
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 22:00:58 -0600
Subject: Interior
Message-ID: <#17>
Hey everyone
A while back I asked for advice on how to redo my plastic(or whatever)
panels inside my 95 Eclipse RS. A few people suggested a special spray.
Well, I spent about 20 bucks on spray, and covered ALL my panels correctly,
but the stuff is crap -- it peels off at the slightest scrath, it flakes
off -- It ruined all my panels. I had to spend about 4 hours with a super
high powered hose getting the stuff off! But I am still determined! How
else could I do this feat? I thought I could maybe somehow mold my own out
of plastic or fiberglass? But I am not sure how much I want to do, because
I might be selling this car for a '69 Porsche 912.. Any help or ideas?
Thanks,
Bobby
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 04:15:53 +0000
From: Larry MYHRE <rystalon@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: exhaust
Message-ID: <#18>
[1g,T,AWD]
I want to put dual exhaust on my 1991 AWD Talon from the cat back. How can I
do this and is there such a thing as a "dummy" cat? If so what is it and
where can I get one? I am also only getting about 230 miles to a tank of
premium gas, is this normal? I would also like to get leather seats, can
this be done by simply buying some kind of kit? Please help I am a beginner.
[RTP]
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 23:41:01 -0500
From: Lambert Knowles <lamind@bahamas.net.bs>
Subject: 1G AWD T
Message-ID: <#19>
I've removed the lower honey from the MAS and now my Cybredyne guage
runs full lean at idle. Is this normal?
Secondly, has anyone installed a Starion front mount intercooler. It
looks massive and the lines line up pretty go. If anyone did please let
me know how it work. Iam also looking to purchase a used Starion
intercooler anyone have access to a scrap yard near by or have one
please let me know. They normally sell for around $100.
Thanks
Lambert
91 AWD T
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 04:38:47 +0000
From: Larry MYHRE <rystalon@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Vibs
Message-ID: <#20>
[1g,AWD,T]
Help. my 1991 AWD Talon gives my the shakes. At 70mph or so, the car
vibrates pretty bad. I also hear a clicking or clunking sound coming from
the rear of the car when I turn around. Ex. 1st to rev. back to 1st.
Regaurding that door pin switch on the Laser, I have the same prob. I
usually kick it and the light comes on:) How do you fix that?
[Read Terry's Tips in the HOWTO section of the website. -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 16 Jan 1997 21:34:15 -0900
From: Karl Thoennes III <atket@UAA.ALASKA.EDU>
Subject: [1g] paint condition (92 Talon)
Message-ID: <#21>
I have 168K miles on my '92 Talon, and the paint looks just great. Not
brand new of course, but pretty darn good. I'm always surprised at the
posts about paint problems in the 1st gen T/E/L's. In the last digest
someone mentioned that the painted mirror housings wear away, chip, or
simply happen to be the first area that looks awful. I just checked mine,
and they look fine too--which leads me to wonder...
Perhaps it's sunlight. I live in Alaska. My car has been deep frozen
(-50 in Fairbanks, and that ain't wind chill either, that's plain old
ambient), sprayed with sand, slush, snow, ice storms, dirt, gravel
chunks from dirt roads, eagle droppings, even moose guts from a road kill
that happened right in front of me. Through it all, the paint--including
the mirrors--looks just fine. I don't go crazy washing & waxing because
with Alaskan conditions, there's no point most of the time, but all this
leads me to believe that maybe sunlight causes deterioration and general
weakness in the finish far more seriously than I thought. Direct
sunlight--that's the one thing we don't have, and maybe that's why
the paint lasts so much longer. (We also don't salt the roads up here, we
just sand.)
Karl Thoennes
Anchorage, Alaska
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 01:11:21 -0800
Subject: How to crush the BOV
Message-ID: <#22>
> For anyone who has crushed the stock BOV. How much do you crush it? Are
> there any pictures anywhere?
No, but there WILL be soon. However, they will do you NO GOOD
WHATSOEVER. Everyone's crushes a little different - the KEY to crushing
it is to use a vacuum pump, and crushing it a little at a time until it
JUST starts opening at 18-20" Hg. It depends on what your car idles at
~ mine idles at 18-19", so I crushed mine to 20", and MAY take it to
21".
But you can't just say - crsuh until the total height is X, as
everyone's is a little different.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 04:23:20 -0800
Subject: re:alternators & re:statement & re:What to look for? & re:retreads &
well, thats it for now :)
Message-ID: <#23>
>The altenator in my 91 tsi gave out. the car has about 52000 miles on it.
>Is it common on these cars for this to happen? Also the local dealer
>strongly recommended I stay away from rebuilds any buy the $600 new one.
Well, I've never changed the alternator on a DSM, but I have on other
cars and are you sure it's $600? I can't believe that, I've
bought an entire datsun for $500! :)
Personally, I'd call a different dealer and ask him about it first, then
find a good alternator/starter shop and ask them... If the dealer really
insists on $600, I'd go for a rebuilt. I can't see paying that much for
an alternator, must be atleast gold plated first... :P
>The employees of Alamo have always done their best to help me when I
>call. I took a cynical view the other day and dismissed all of their
>past help in a moment of misunderstanding. I should have kept my
>feelings to myself.
nah, vent the feelings, we'll listen. I have the opposite opinion of
MDSOG myself, but I wouldn't flame ya for it. I have high respect for
anyone who can make a public appology though :) good job :)
>I'd like to publicly thank Michael Kline and Jon Bennet for their help on
>this so far, as well as LoQuito
ya welcome:) -LoQ
>I have used remanufactured tires and IMO they are simply too dangerous
I agree, I was going ~70mph in my old MGB down the 5th most dangerous
bridge in the U.S. (The only way to get that thing going 70 :P) anyhow,
within seconds the car started shaking violently, then it SWERVED
against the cement wall on the side of the bridge and proceeded to climb
it!!!! My passenger swears he could have seen the water about 100' below
us if he hadn't been covering his eyes :P I personally was doing
everything I could to keep the car down. When I got to the bottom of the
bridge, I looked at the tire, it was holding air fine, but the tread had
come smooth off, it was wrapped around the axle. (explains the swerve to
the right) Anyhow, that was a retread left on from the previous owner.
Despite the lower price, I'll always go with real tires from now on. I'd
never believed a tire could be that dangerous until that day. Scared me
so bad, it took 3 days to push my bellybutton back in :):)
sorry for the long post and alls :):)
happy motoring...
~Kyl3 Munz
'91BlackTSiAWD
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 08:03:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Tire Rack and more...
Message-ID: <#24>
Craig Meyers....Tire Rack and wheels...
In th past, I have had great help from Tire rack. When I was looking at
wheels and triae for my 1G, They even sent me one tire and wheel assembly to
test on the car before I bought all 4 and let me return it when it didn't
work like I wanted. They charged me of course, but credited my credit card
when I shipped it back. They even paid the shipping back. Talk to them about
this option.
Mark...NT fuel pressure regulators.... Mark, the ECU doesn't know or care
about fuel pressure. You could raise the fuel pressure and under boost at
wot, the injector pulse width wouldn;t change because the ECU is not in
closed loop and ignores the O2 sensor. Secondly, you do not want to use a NT
FPR as the off boost fuel pressure will be too high. You have several choices
for aftermarket FPR's.. Cartech, Paxton, and there is one that Dave B and
others use. I have a LAmbros engineering which is a modified stock unit made
adjustable.
Brian
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 08:11:34 EST
From: "MARIO A. PENNYCOOKE" <mario@chip.cba.ufl.edu>
Subject: 4k noise problem fixed
Message-ID: <#25>
Hey guys,
Well I finally got my Talon TSi back and yes brethren there truely
is an evil living among us and his name is SATAN. I took my car to
the eagle dealership on Mon morrning, I call em back in the afternoon
they said, oh we fixed you over 4k noise problem, it was just a bent
exhuast hanger come and get it. So I go to pick it up. I started it
and reved it up to about 6k. The noise was still there. Their
remark..."uuhhh we didn't rev it up that high." Well to make a long
story short, like I thought, THE TIMING WAS OFF TWO TEETH . SOoo they
replaced the belt($50) and the tensioner ($100), and with labor it
took 4 days and $450 to get my friggin timing belt replaced and
my car back. So within two week I've spent $700 bucks replacing the
timing belts on both of my cars. But oh well, the noise it gone. Well
its time for some real mods, mooostangs beware, rah rah. Spending cash on
non upgrades suck.
Well take it ez,
Mario
91 Talon Normasp (4 sale)
90 Talon Tsi
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 08:35:33 -0500 (EST)
From: V8KILLR@aol.com
Subject: For Sale & Mike @ Turbo Mag.
Message-ID: <#26>
Hi guys & gals,
I hope that everyones holidays were enjoyable. I have an ATR external
Wastegate and a Buschur Racing SS O2 housing that I would like to sell. The
wastegate comes with 2 springs, a 15psi and an 18psi. Both are in good
condition and the O2 housing has never cracked. I am asking $350 for the
whole deal.
I would like to take a minute a comment on my feature that was in Turbo
Magazine. I have been reading most of the posts about the article and would
like to thank everyone for their compliments. But most of the posts are
negative because of the last sentence of the artice. Let me ask a question,
does one sentence out of a couple hundred ruin the whole article? I agree
that it could have been left out, but I don't think that because it is in
there that it destroys the article. This is a four page spread and the
article shows off the true potential of our cars through various stages. It
also gives a lot of credit where credit is due, I am refering to David
Buschur.
It is like winning a major battle, we all want coverage of the performance
potential of DSM's and we have finally received some. I'm not going to bitch
because of one sentence out of the whole article. The sentence can be
interpreted a couple of different ways. Let me state the sentence word for
word, "If Marc finds a way to keep the transmission, transfer case and axles
from breaking, we're sure he'll reach his goal." The first way that this can
be interpreted is that it infers that I have broken those things, which I
have not. I have broken three transmissions but never a transfer case or an
axle. I'll get into more detail about that in a minute. If you read the
comment again you will find that it doesn't actually say that I have broken
anything. There is another way to take this sentence, that is put it into
context with what has been going on. Look at it from a standpoint of
following the build up of project Talon. In the last issue before this one,
Jan 97, Mike did a article on the failure of the various driveline
components. Since Mike and I are running very similar times it would be safe
to assume that I have a pontential for breakage. Why, because things break
when you start running low, low 12's and faster. Now if you were following
project Talon and get to my article one issue after the one on all his
breakage problems, Mikes last sentence could be taken that he hopes that I
have more success and less breakage than he has had. This is how I
interpreted it.
I would like to thank Mike Ferrara for the excellent article. In case you
guys haven't noticed, Mike writes a lot of the articles in Turbo. Take a
minute to leaf through a couple of issues and see how many of the acticles he
writes each issue. Then consider how much time he spent putting my four
page
spread together along with everything else he worked on in that issue. The
guy works pretty hard. If you don't always agree with what he writes and it
is obvious that a lot of you don't, go a little easier on his. Slamming the
crap out of him is surely not going to get us more coverage, right? The
truth of the matter is that the weak link in our cars is the driveline. It
does't matter now if the article on his breakage should or should not been
printed because it was. I guess that is why they say that truth hurts. I
understand that a lot of you are PO'ed because he printed what he broke and
it is more than alot of us. It doesn't mean that he can't drive, it just
means that he drives harder than we do, and he admits this himself. He is
just flat out more abusive. I know someone else that was extremely abusive
and constantly breaking things, and things that no one else ever broke. I am
refering to Ken Walker, That guy was the most abusive driver that I have
ever met, and he broke more parts that anyone I have ever met, just ask
Buschur.
It is frustrating to break parts, let me tell you. If you have not yet
broken any don't jump all over someone that has because you don't know what
it is like. When you get to the point where you could change a transmission
in your sleep, and I am there, you have done it too much. I think that I had
my transmission out of my car six or seven times this summer. I broke 3 sets
of spider gears, which are located inside the Center Differential, this
summer. I went through a couple of stock clutch disks. I remember changing
a clutch the night before leaving for Maryland to race at the East Coast
Import Challenge. It got late and I did not have enough tranny fluid so I
finished in the morning before we left. After the race we headed over to
Ocean City. We got stuck in a two hour traffic jam that was stop and go.
When I got home and went racing the next itme my clutch was slipping, I'm
sure the traffic jam did not help. My point is that it sucks to break things
weather it is because of your driving style or not.
I guess that I will stop here because this is getting long and I could
probably keep going. I just want to stick up for Mike since no one else has.
He is a tremendously nice guy and he has always bent over backwards to help
me in anyway that he could. I don't think that he meant anything negative
through the last sentence in the feature.
Marc
P.S. Tom, records were meant to be broken, so if you can do it, it is all
yours. That is were the fun comes in.
Good luck!
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 08:40:09 -0500
Subject: Door switch corrosion
Message-ID: <#27>
Jarrod,
>>It was a problem with the door pins having corrosion on them -works fine
now!!
>Has anyone else had problems with this?
>Any fixes to keep them from re-corroding?
Yeah, it seems to be a common problem out here in Ohio. A former DSM owner
I
work with gave me a tip. They will still recorrode eventually, but so far,
they have worked for the last year.
Just disassemble the switch, clean all of corrosion out that you can reach, and
clean the contact points on the car. Reassemble and reinstall the switch,
using a light coating petroleum jelly to slow future corrosion, and make sure
that the little rubber switch boot is on tightly. Viola! Working door
switches. Simple, but has worked well so far.
Kyle
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 09:15:24 -0500
Subject: Car/Parts for Sale
Message-ID: <#28>
Folks,
I didn't receive a single response regarding the sale of my '94 Eclipse
GSX, currently running 12.3 in the 1/4-mile. If anyone has interest,
please email me.
I will consider selling the car stock if no one bites so, in the
meantime, if anyone is looking to modify their stock AWD DSM and would
like to trade stock parts for upgrades, please respond via email.
Below are the parts I have available.
Ported and clipped 16G with 7cm housing - $400 + stock turbo
16x7.5 Momo Evolution rims (chrome) - $1,200 + stock rims
Ported '95 Exhaust Manifold - $150 + stock manifold
Mandrel-bent 2.5" downpipe - $130 + stock downpipe
HKS exhaust - $200 + stock exhaust
VPC head-unit - $300
Modified air canister - trade for stock air canister
One-piece intercooler pipe (fits around ABS) - $150
Regards, Sam (desperate to sell and build an RX7)
-----------------------------Date:
Fri, 17 Jan 1997 08:12:44 -0600
Subject: Retreaded and Rebuilt tires - my experience (long)
Message-ID: <#29>
I am posting this information not as an expert on the subject but as a
customer who has had experience with the products (disclaimer ;)
I called several places and asked alot of questions before I was going to
purchase retreaded tires. Eventually I got a hold of a guy who works for
Butler who does the "rebuilding". He told me that they don't just retread
tires as all that is, is just glueing sectional chunks to the old worn down
tread. He exclaimed to me the whole process where they strip the old tire
down to the belting and then rebuild it back up. Irregardless of what tire
you order the tread pattern is GoodYear GSC made from Yokohamma rubber
and
it is speed rated to "H". I ordered 4 225/50/ZR16's and had them delivered
to my door for under $375.
I used my rebuilt tires while racing at last year's Shootout. I have put
over 15K miles on them and they hardly look worn. They grip really well and
have great traction - except on ice.
The reason rebuilt tires get bad names is cause of the truckers. They use
retreads and they use them till they fall apart. Since they have twin tires
on each side of the trailers they milk their tires for all their worth and
will use them till they blow apart. That's why you see chunks of tire on the
road and everybody thinks it because retreads suck.
I will be using the same set of rebuilt tires at this years Shootout too!
J Chris Roth
92 Laser RS AWD
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 10:00:52 -0500
Subject: Thanks...
Message-ID: <#30>
I'd like to thank everyone who answered my questions over the past few
days. If I didn't reply to you personally, please don't be offended. The
response was overwhelming, especially regarding the question about the
smoking tires.
You guys (and gals) are the greatest. <snif><wipe away tear>
Have a good weekend everyone.
Michael Kline
'90 Talon TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 09:17:42 -0600
Subject: Off Topic - Sorry
Message-ID: <#31>
Hey guys/gals!
This is definitely off subject. And knowing how all of use just
love the 5.slows, I thought I would offer this up. I currently
have a 87 Mustang GT Convertible that I am trying to sell. The
insurance on two sports cars is eating me up. Anyway, I
purchased the car a year ago in May with, get this, 29,???
miles. Since I have owned it, it now has 41,??? miles. It has
been to the dealer and the technician has confirmed the mileage
is correct. He said the rear end was just like new. There were
a few seals that had dry rotted and the rear pinion seal was one
of them. It still leaks a little around the valve covers. I
haven't replaced them because the intake has to come off. It is
black w/ gray/black interior. This car has not been modified.
The paint is in real good condition. There are a few dings on
the sides and some chips in the front. The top is in good
condition, a little faded but still looks good. I am currently
asking $8000 but am negotiable. Does this sound too high?
Robert
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 09:36:57 -0600
Subject: Mirrors and Paint
Message-ID: <#32>
>Those of you with a 1gT Talon or Eclipse with the black roofs (do just
>the turbo models have black roofs?) I'm wondering if there's yet another
>cosmetic difference in the Talon and Eclipse - like in the side mirror
>housings....
>I'm thinking that the Talons (I can verify on a 90-91 Tsi) have painted
>side mirror housings. And I'm thinking the Eclipses have just have plain
>black plastic housings.
Dean,
I have owned my 90 Talon AWD since new. From what I have seen,
all the Talons had black roofs and some of the Eclipses had the
black roof treatment. As far as the mirrors being painted.
None of the '90 or '91 Talons had painted mirrors. They were
all the molded black plastic or fiberglass. I think the mirrors
on the Eclipses were body color coded. The reason I picked the
Talon over the Eclipses was because it appeared more aggressive
and I liked the black green house. I also liked the rear
spoiler better because it comes down the side of the car up and
in front of the mirrors.
Robert
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 97 10:22:51 EST
Subject: Econolodge
Message-ID: <#33>
I just got my reservation at the Econolodge for Thur, Fri, and Sat. The lady
on the phone said.. ahhh.. you must be calling for the race event. It
sounded like she'd been bombarded with DSM Shootout callers :)
The price for the Econolodge with no special discounts is $48 for Thursday
night and $68 each for Friday and Saturday nights.
So now that the track date is official, how soon until we can start sending
the reservation forms to Dave for the event?
Anybody care to make a stab at the approximate number of miles from Atlanta,
GA to Norwalk, OH?
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 08:37:46 -0700
Subject: Help
Message-ID: <#34>
If anyone out there knows the address or preferably the e-mail address to
Mitsubishi Customer relations or Customer service let me know.
Thanks in advance.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 10:03:49 -0600
Subject: various
Message-ID: <#35>
Wow! Three posts. Sorry.
Jason:
I would be careful if you buy a "new" alternator from the
dealer. I have seen more than once, a dealer charging for a new
one but putting on a rebuilt. The US cars came with 75amp (I
think) and the Canadian cars came with 95amp alternators. If
you do purchase a new one, insist on getting the Canadian model.
I am not sure why they were different. Maybe it is because
they have the daytime running lights.
>Damian wrote:
>>It was a problem with the
>>door pins having corrosion on them -- works fine now!!
>Has anyone else had problems with this? My 90 Laser has had this problem.
>I'm wondering if this is fairly common in the harsher climates. Seems that
>the switch in the lower rear corner of the door is a pretty silly place to
>put it....
This is in one of the FAQ's on the Web Site. It kept my factory
alarm from working for about a year and a half.
Robert
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 11:36:22 -0500
From: Kyle Meyer <kmeyer@nicom.com>
Subject: Re: Volume control probs
Message-ID: <#36>
I had a similar problem on my 92 GS -- except it would get *LOUDER*. I have
the combo model (no CD), and I don't know if it's the same model the newer
cars have. The problem got worse and worse, until I couldn't bear it any
longer (about 1 month after the b-to-b warranty ran out, of course). The
dealer said they could have swapped it (no-charge) if it had still been
under warranty. If I were you, I'd take it out yourself, bring it to the
dealer, and have them swap it under the warranty.
For me, I took it to a reputable stereo-repair shop, and they couldn't find
anything wrong w/ it either. So eventually I had to order the volume
control from a radio parts store, and replace it myself. Cost about $10
bucks, but it was a bitch to get into the stereo (lots of odd connections,
small screws, had to unsolder the part, etc.). But once I replaced it, it
worked great.
If you want the radio-parts dealer, leave me e-mail and I'll look it up.
Kinda useful, actually, if you like/don't mind messing w/ electronics.
(Todd - would that be useful for the web site?)
[Sure, send it my way. -talon mgr]
~Kyle
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 11:48:45 -0200
Subject: Archer Bros. Challenge Part II
Message-ID: <#37>
If anyone remembers, I wrote an email challenging Archer racing to
contribute more. Well, John Archer didn't like that much. Below is his
response to me directly with my comments.
>JON....
>#1 this system is nothing you would ever use on a street car it is for race
>applications...
1. Take a look at most of the members with "race cars" on the digest. I
think that they would love your input on the guts of your $30,000 total
electronic package. For instance, as you should know, fuel cut is caused
by the ecu which is an electronic piece of equipment. Did you take the ecu
out of the car and replace it with your computer? If not, how do you deal
with fuel cut? Do you just run on the lean side? This is what I mean by
contribution!
>#2 its not a fuel management system only.. this system controls everything
>involved in the electronics of the engine,, boost,fuel,timing,spark,rev
>limiter,air fuel mixture,and the electronic boost solenoids we use in are
>system. it totaly computer programed different at every track because
>altitude changes.
2. Sounds like your system is sort of like a PMS that you can reprogram
with a laptop. hmm... how much do they run?
>#3 i am a 1 person business.and dont have time to answer questions all day
on
>the digest i do what i can to help the members out if they have a question
>they usually ask it.
>there are more than 2000 good members on this list that can answer just
about
>any question you may have.
3. Other vendors spend much more time online and contribute much more.
Even "part-time" vendors have contributed more. I simply would love to
hear more from you.
>#4 these cars we have are far from street cars almost no comparison besides
>the actual body they are highly modified
>so if there is anything we can answer for you just ASK.
4. Same engine, right?
>#5 AND JUST SO YOU NO ALL THE OTHER MEMBERS APPRECIATE THE
PARTS WE PUT ON
>THE INTERNET ITS ONLY FOR THEM NOBODY ELSE AND THEY HAVE
GOTTEN SOME VERY
>GOOD DEALS!!!!!
>so sorry if i didnt do something especially for you .. but people have been
>calling me asking me what your problem is . which i dont no.!!
I have never purchased anything from you. I never said that you didn't
give good deals. The point is, I would like to hear more from you in the
digest.
John, I had hoped that you would have responded in a more positive manner.
Maybe with some more information about these cars. Instead, you have
decided to tell me that I don't know enough about these cars to participate
in a discussion about them. You probably know much more about these cars
than I do. Therefore, you should contribute more than me to this
digest! That is the point, isn't it?
Here are my questions that I think that everyone on the digest would
enjoying hearing the answers from you.
1.
2.
3.
4.
Why a garrett instead of 20G or 16G?
What kind of BOV? If stock, do you crush it?
What kind of fuel pump?
injectors?
5. intercooler?
6. springs/struts?
7. sway bars?
8. alignment?
9. EVC? or does your $30,000 computer do this also?
10. where do you place your air filter and why?
Jon Roberts
http://www.ntr.net/~jroberts dsm picture archive.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 12:55:24 EST
From: dsspecial@juno.com
Subject: BPR?EK-N/ Class for 95+ FWD turbo
Message-ID: <#38>
This is Mike from DSS:
I also have an ENDLESS supply of the EK-N double ground electrode
plugs. I also sell them for $7. For that mater I can get ANY NGK plug
(I think) If I don't have it in stock I can get it the next day. Come to think
about it, if I don't have a part in stock I can also usually get it the
next day.
About the 95+ FWD turbo. My rule book ,1996 SCCA, puts the 95+ FWD
turbo in D/SP. All the AWD live in E/SP.
Mike
(805) 541-4483
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 10:30:08 -0800 (PST)
From: etalon@intergate.bc.ca (Gabe Chung)
Subject: tires and wheels
Message-ID: <#39>
Hi everyone..I was just wondering..my friend was selling his 215/40/16
Pirelli P700 ZR tires to me but i have a question.. my stock wheels off my
ESi were 195/70/14 ..now i have 195/60/15 because i got new rims.. I'm
getting 16" blades so i figure i'll get my friends tires because he is
selling them to me very cheap partly because there used but still have a
good 85% left on them..anyways if i upgrade to 16" I'm suppose to be using
215/50/16 right?? If i take his 215/40/16 then how much would it affect my
speedo, braking and other important things like that?? I also lowered my car
1.8 inches using eibach sportlines if that matters..I want to use a lower
profile tire but don't want to mess up my speedo that much..thanks for any
help!
Gabe
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 13:09:05 -0600 (CST)
Subject: platinum spark plugs
Message-ID: <#40>
2 quickie questions: I noticed(in the archives and a recent post) some
people have had problems with the Bosch plat. plugs. Is this a problem with
just this brand or platinums in general? and are the stock sparkplug wires
NGK? Stan
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 10:23:19 +0000
Subject: RE: 3" FWD Catbacks - prjtrev@aol.com
Message-ID: <#41>
JUST A FYI.. any comments or questions feel free to RTP!!!!!
Hey all,
Thought some of you were wondering what the heck prjtrev@aol.com was
talking about when he put in the ad for the new 3" FWD Catback
exhausts, well I was! I went down to his shop yesterday when I was
picking up my tires (one blew on freeway) and I told him to show me
the exhaust (thinking that maybe he built his own as he does on other products
(nice work by the way) and well there it was.. 5" tip, mandrel bent
Sharp looking! It is just a tad bit louder then the RS-R but not by
much. The muffler and piping is all black but the tip is a nice
chrome. I think this is a nice combination as you won't be attracting
too much attention from behind as the big chrome mufflers do (you
know, reflect light back etc) So yes the exhaust is a reality and
it is a nice unit.. I am scanning some documentation on the exhaust
so if you want a copy let me know.
I also picked up a new Weapon 'R' air intake, it's a nice unit but
what got me to thinking that I wanted to give this filter a whirl is
the performance reports that were done on a few hondas on dynos. This
filter shows on paper to outflow the K&N and RSA/II. In fact one of
the reports shows that running the filter showed no extra powerloss
from when they ran the same vehicle without a filter..
I'm also scanning the stats of these numbers so if your interested again let
me know..
Another lil tidbit on the filter, I just installed it and removed my
RSAII and this intake does not sound as raspy as the RSAII. Don't
know performance yet as I only drove to work with it.. Will do some
testing when I can and let you know..
This is just a FOR YOUR INFORMATION, it happens that Leo IS a friend
of mine and he DOES run Revolition Motorsports but a lot of you guys
are my FRIENDS, so I just thought I would give you a better report
on what the 3" exhaust was all about, I do not work for him nor do
I get anything for my observation nor posts I just like to keep people up to
date on their options when upgrading their DSM
Later all,
Tory *95 GSX actually sitting in San Jose today :) hehehe there is a
twist!!*
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 14:22:56 -0500
From: Modifyd@aol.com
Subject: Dave's Shootout
Message-ID: <#42>
If you can't find hotel reservations for Daves event just go ahead and crash
at his place, I know how he loves it, oh yeah and while your at it why don't
ya sneak around and look under the hood of peoples cars you have no business
checking out? : )
PAT
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 13:34:20 -0600 (CST)
From: Eric Typpo <etyppo@Menudo.UH.EDU>
Subject: Mirrors, alternators & noise at the motels
Message-ID: <#43>
> I'm thinking that the Talons (I can verify on a 90-91 Tsi) have painted
> side mirror housings. And I'm thinking the Eclipses have just have plain
> black plastic housings.
Interesting theory. I always get comments from people who are amazed
that my mirrors are shiny. I've just waxed them since I bought the car,
and assumed they didn't but maybe there is a difference between cars.
> The altenator in my 91 tsi gave out. the car has about 52000 miles on it.
> Is it common on these cars for this to happen? Also the local dealer
> strongly recommended I stay away from rebuilds any buy the $600 new one.
My $90 rebuild from Pep Boys is still going strong after 1.5 yrs and
17K miles. It has a lifetime warranty, so if it goes bad, I'll just pop
it out and get a new one. It probably won't last as long as a dealer
replacement, but for $510, I'm willing to risk having to pull it out and
and replace it again. Not that big of a job.
> The number one reason is NOISE. If is a hotel full of just us no one
> will cry about the exhausts or getting a little loud late at night in the
> parking lot.
Noise? We didn't (Jim McKenna) make any noise last year. I can't believe
that anybody (Jim McKenna) would have had anything to complain about (Jim
McKenna). We were a pretty quiet (Jim McKenna) bunch last year. I
don't think I was rudely awakened last year at 3 a.m. (Jim McKenna) at
all...... :-)
Eric "Mr. Subliminal" Typpo
------------------------------
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id VAA15758
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 12:00:06 -0800
Sender: owner-talon@dsm.org
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) Rory Martin
factory order [2G, T]
2) Michael Kline
(1g T) Looking for a new/rebuilt CV joint
3) David Starnes
warranty work
4) Cory R Deeds
1991 TSI Problems
5) Davies, Grant
Cosmetics
6) Michael Kline
97 Shootout
7) Tom Stangl
DSM Wiring
8) Tom Stangl
Painting Interior panels
9) Kyle Munz
re:Florida DSM'ers
10) Bryan K. Swain
DSM Shootout "roommates"
11) Bobby Bernauer
Whoah!!!!!!!!!!!!
12) Shingo Asano
VERY LONG but Informative/Funny
13) Joe Jankord
Thanks David!
14) Steve Calbert
Re:another Ford war-story
15) Pete
interior painting prep
16) Sloclone
March issue of Turbo Mag. , Fluke engines, small w
17) Dave Campbell
Mirrors, Alternators, Tires and Wheels
18) Craig Lucero
[1G T] Odor
19) Lambert Knowles
Electrical Problems ?
20) Bob Fischer
movies
21) Michael
[1G, T] different idle prob, other stuff, etc.
22) FRCFED4
Re: 4K noise problem fixed
23) Smokin
Fw: Alaskan DSM'er
24) JChristou
Brake Fluid Choices
25) John Hindle
RE:alternators
26) Mark Cookson
Re: [2G,T] Infinity CD Player + CD-R
27) Brandeis?
tank recall, etc.
28) Boosted
HoDT
29) SEAN E. ELLIS
[NT] Electric Supercharger
30) Mario
Air box mods/ boost solenoid
31) Cory R Deeds
Re: 1991 Tsi Problems
32) Jesse Hustad
Alternators, Rear Ends {1G, T, AWD}
33) tony wilhelm
TOUR '97
34) BRAD GRANE
T1G x-fer case , dealer horrors
35) Jesse Hustad
Rear Differential
37) Jeff
[1G, T] No more Die Hard Batteries!?
38) RENEGAR
Temporary Oil Burn? - or Big Problem? Please Advis
39) NMastrocol
(1G,T) Valve cover & gasket.
40) bcurnow
[2G,T] 96 Talon Amplifier location?
41)
42)
43)
44)
45)
46)
48)
49)
50)
51)
53)
54)
55)
56)
57)
58)
59)
60)
61)
NumbLine
plug gaps
Chris Wirth
New Products, Ideas & Questions
RYAN DENKE
valve cover 4sale/new engine solved ticking noise
Stephen Mcdonnell Running Out of Fuel...Ported MAS?
Lilsharky1
2G Times, Downpipe,and Cat
William or Karen
(1g) Headlightthingy
Bill Lawrence
NOS
The4Bangr
FILLING UP...GET YOUR RESERVATIONS
RPavsner
Evolution 4 on Espn 2....
Speedline Racing
Response To Tom S. & Gang
auger
Competition Stereo for sale and [2G] Sub Box
Brian Hinken
RE: [1g] paint condition (92 Talon)
Shawn Murphy
Bad Idle (1G, NT, 2.0)
Fedja Jeleskovic/Pic RE: tires and wheels
Jon Bennett
HELP ME MAKE A NEW DEALER (REPAIR SHOP) PAGE
Sloclone
PMS unit for second generation for sale
Jon Bennett
Re: [2G,T,AWD] fuel tank recall
Bryan K. Swain
[1G] Timing belt replacement
Damon Root
16G needed
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 14:58:02 -0700 (MST)
From: Rory Martin <rmartin@bara.psi.vcu.edu>
Subject: factory order [2G, T]
Message-ID: <#1>
I have an awd Talon on order and the dealer tells me the car is currently
"on restriction". Can anyone confirm this? I'm aware that the plants close
over Xmas for maintenance work, but this should be over by now. The dealer
tried to tell me the restriction was due to me not ordering the sunroof!
("it's not a normal package you've put together")
Rory Martin
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 15:25:05 -0500
Subject: (1g T) Looking for a new/rebuilt CV joint
Message-ID: <#2>
Sorry for the double post.
The subject line says it all. I'm looking for prices and/or good sources
for new and rebuilt CV joints for a 1990 Talon TSI AWD. RTP please.
Michael Kline
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 16:15:06 -0800
From: David Starnes <dave1320@key.net>
Subject: warranty work
Message-ID: <#3>
A week ago I busted my d/s axle where it goes into the rearend of my 91
talon. I was able to drive it to the small Dunkin Ford, Linc, Merc,
Plymouth, Dodge, Chrysler, Toyota dealership here in key west. I have
modified the car with K&N, cut out mas, 2 1\2 exhaust w downpipe, fuel
pump, & c/f clutch and was worried that they would not do the work. I
really got worried when they said they had a chrysler tech coming down
and was going to have him look at the mods.
I just got back from the dealer and they said that the mods had voided
the warranty but would authorize the work to be done anyway. They are
going to put in a whole new rear end. They wouldn't swing for putting in
a 92 rearend or installing my 16g & 95 manifold becuase of the busted
manifold stud. I knew I was really pushing my luck there anyway but why
not ask.
I am really pleased the are going to fix the car. There is no way I
would have taken the car up to miami not knowing if it was going to be
covered. This puts a good end to a really bad week. The way things are
here in Key West I am hope I get the car back by next month :)
David Starnes
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 16:30:29 EST
Subject: 1991 TSI Problems
Message-ID: <#4>
I'm sorry to bother you with what seems like a small problem but
my car started running really terrible yesterday (1/16/97). It has a
really rough idle, and a terrible hesitation problem. I have already
added fuel injector cleaner and 93 Octane Fuel because I thought maybe
the injectors were a little gummed up. But still no results. Could it
be the fuel filter? I say this because I smelled a little gas when I
opened the throttle up all the way. I just don't know. And today I
experienced a traumatic event, when I put the car in boost and release
it, It makes a sound like I have a Blow-off valve. It sounds like I am
dumping off boost when I thought I couldn't having an internal waste gate
and bypass valve. Could it be this Cold Michigan Weather?
HELP.........
Cory Deeds
1991 TSI
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 17:02:50 -0500
From: "Davies, Grant" <gdavies@ccsc.com>
Subject: Cosmetics
Message-ID: <#5>
Hi I was wondering who had some detailing tips
I recently washed, polished, and waxed my car.. it looked like glass,
really clean shiny and sexy, (erm ok.. its only a car)
After about 4 days it looked dull again.
I used miguires wash, polish and wax as recomended by many people, I did
it by hand and wondered if an orbital polisher would have made a huge
difference? Or is there some technique to this that I'm missing like too
much polish or whatever (I got it all off, it was completely clear
before I waxed it)
Thanks
Grant Davies
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 17:55:37 -0500
Subject: 97 Shootout
Message-ID: <#6>
Yo Western Pennsylvania DSMers:
Any of you going to the Shootout? Rob, Jon? Any others? Let me know.
Michael Kline
Pittsburgh
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 15:51:08 -0800
Subject: DSM Wiring
Message-ID: <#7>
> Does anybody out there have any information about the power lock
> wiring for and 1991 Talon Tsi.
Use the WAIS search on old Digests, I posted the wiring over a year ago,
including the wire to tap into to disarm the factory alarm when you
disarm the aftermarket, so you can also keep the factory alarm.
Or go to John M's page, http://members.aol.com/BlueGSX, he put them
online.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 15:57:32 -0800
Subject: Painting Interior panels
Message-ID: <#8>
>
>
>
>
A while back I asked for advice on how to redo my plastic(or whatever)
panels inside my 95 Eclipse RS. A few people suggested a special spray.
Well, I spent about 20 bucks on spray, and covered ALL my panels correctly,
but the stuff is crap
The trick behind doing this RIGHT is preparation. There are vinyl
paints that will NOT flake off IF YOU PREP RIGHT. There is a spray (one
company calls their's Liquid Sandpaper) that you spray on plastic that
opens up the pores without melting the plastic. Once that is applied, a
vinyl spray will soak into the top layer of the plastic, BECOMING the
top layer.
It IS a PITA to do correctly, though. I never had the chance to do it
on my 71 Stang, as I sold it before the interior color swap was complete
:(
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 18:20:15 -0800
Subject: re:Florida DSM'ers
Message-ID: <#9>
>Hello, any Central Florida DSMers!
>I tried to find some people here in my area a while ago and did find a
>few, but I lost all my old addresses and messages from those who did
>reply.
Florida has a beach on the Gulf Coast!!! Therefor it and its occupants
qualify for the GulfCoast-DSM subchapter!!! http://www.gc.dsm.org
Yes, we are a new group, we don't offer a mail digest. But we have a web
page, it includes a list of members (few, but hopefully that will change!)
also a small pic gallery, Events Calender, Buy/Sell/Trade, and Vendor
Info.
If you live in TX, LA, MS, AL, or FL, then email Hank or Myself. We live
in LA and TX respectfully, so we rely on input from you guys/gals in the
other three states. If you want to join our member's list, let us know
about cool vendors in your state/s, or current events, or have something
you wanna sell/buy. Then visit the site (thats http://www.gc.dsm.org/ )
and send some email to us, gulfcoast-dsm@geocities.com and let us know!!!
If you're not using a frames capable browser and find you can't view the
site, try back the next day, I hope to have a NOFRAMES version up very
soon. Also, sorry for any inconvenience w/ emailing, but I'm not QUITE
that strong in CGI's yet, and don't want the headaches of intelligent 9
yr. olds adding their 'Tickle Me Elmo' dolls (worth ~13HP each when
taped to a civic) on the Buy/Sell page :)
~Kyl3 Munz
'91BlackTSiAWD
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 19:20:39 -0500 (EST)
From: "Bryan K. Swain" <bks@vt.edu>
Subject: DSM Shootout "roommates"
Message-ID: <#10>
If anyone who already has a room reservation for the shootout is looking for
a roommate to split the cost of the 3 nights (Thurs, Fri, Sat) please let me
know.
I can commit to those nights. For that matter, even if someone doesn't
already have a room but wants to share one, get in touch with me and we
could make a reservation.
Thanks,
Bryan
quick_ag
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 18:58:42 -0600
Subject: Whoah!!!!!!!!!!!!
Message-ID: <#11>
Whoah
Ok.. My Eclipse is carrying more weight than ever (Spare tire, a speaker
box, amps, passengers). But it is feeling SO fast!! What happened? It
used to feel slow, but it seems to be speeding up! I recently put some
Super Unleaded Plus fuel in it. Does the quality of the fuel matter any?
Thanks,
Bobby
PS- I always have dumb questions!!
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 21:06:16 -0500
From: Shingo Asano <solared@ibm.net>
Subject: VERY LONG but Informative/Funny
Message-ID: <#12>
I know shootout97 is just around the corner. People will start asking "how
do I get to Norwalk, OH?" or "how far is it from my house?" I've never
been there myself but I hope following webpages will help you safely get
there. :-)
(1) Getting there from your house/finding distance from your house
Go to Http://www.mapquest.com and choose Tripquest. It will tell you which
roads you need to take and how much you have to drive. Shootout is held at
Norwalk, OH. I think you have to use city to city rather than door to door.
Once you get to Norwalk, ask the guy at the gas station on how to get to
the track ;-) That's what your Girlfriend/Boyfriend/Wife/Husband is for. Oh
yeah, I think Tony (IRC nick=gsx96) is planning a DSM factory tour at
Normal, Illinois a day before the shootout so you might want to check the
direction to get there too.
(2) For those that will be traveling a great distance to the shootout.
There is nothing annoying than getting speeding ticket(s). I know you guys
will be driving safely and following all traffic laws. ;-) But
http://www.speedtrap.com/speedtrap/ will tell you where you might encounter
speedtrap. I hope this page will help you avoid getting un-wanted speeding
ticket(s). Please slow down and drive safely!
(3) Contact your regional DSM owners or visit the regional Club DSM site.
They might have little Caravan planned so you guys can all meet up
somewhere and drive up to Norwalk, Ohio together :-) You should start
saving up money for CB or handheld radio so you can talk to other DSM
owners during your trip ;-)
(3) I was doing net search under "Mitsubishi Eclipse" today and I found
this article. Goto this address....
http://www.spub.ksu.edu/ISSUES/v100/SP/n127/opn-4-4-Schields.html
Anybody wanna claim this silver Eclipse? Hehehe, it scared me at first cuz
I own a silver Eclipse too. I know she isn't talking about me, I don't
live anywhere near Kansas.
(4) Well, lot of people on IRC ask me if I am going to the shootout. Man,
I like to attend but I'll be in California by then. I don't know if I want
to drive all the way up to Ohio. I "might" hook up w/ Bay Area guys and
drive up. But chance of that is real slim. By the way, I live in NY right
now. Maybe we can schedule California shootout so SoCal and NoCal guys can
hook up few months from now. I should have my car by ready to go by then.
I'll race you guys with my 11 second awd 2nd Gen Eclipse equipped w/ 20G
turbo, NOT!!!!! That's just my fantasy. I'm planning to race Ron (IRC nick
SoCalDSM) as soon as I get to L.A. tho. Let's see who's going to get his
butt spanked...hehehe ;-)
Take care,
Shingo
IRC nickname=EkLiPsEd <---doh!
P.S. Some guy on IRC is desperately seeking a roomie during shootout 97,
he has a hotel room reserved already ... I think his IRC nickname is D
something. I think he owns a 87 RX7 (which is for sale) and red Talon Tsi
awd.....I'M ONLY KIDDING!! THIS IS A JOKE!! ;-) Don't get upset at me
please. Hehehe.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 21:43:42 -0500
Subject: Thanks David!
Message-ID: <#13>
I want to publicly thank David Buschur for his help. I made a really
stupid mistake and while having the lower I/C pipe disconnected from the
turbo accidentally dropped an object down into the turbo! I was going
crazy. I didn't know what to do. It was a Friday night and after 5pm. I
called information and got David's phone number. I called him and he
told me that since it was a light object it would just come flying out
when the car was started. Well that exactly what happened. It was
probably only a 2 minute call, but it sure helped. It just calmed my
nerves and was some heartening advice. I didn't know if I was going to
have to totally remove my turbo or if I started it if it would destroy
my turbine blades. Well thanks David!
Joe
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 21:58:08 -0500
From: "Steve Calbert" <scalbert@flwsoutheast.com>
Subject: Re:another Ford war-story
Message-ID: <#14>
> Normally, beating a Bronco is nothing to brag about, but it's nice
> putting the SUV crowd in it's place too...
Now, I do love driving my wifes Eclipse GS-T, I have also owned a AWD
Talon and know the traction of these vehicles.
But in defense and to be politically correct I must add that not all SUV's
should be taken lightly. I also love driving my Typhoon in adverse
conditions and would have to say that it possibly has better staight line
traction and performance than the typical DSM in adverse conditions due to
wider tires and much greater weight.
I just try to keep myself, or atleast in my own mind, seperate from the
other SUV's out there.
Steve
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 21:20:37 -0600
Subject: interior painting prep
Message-ID: <#15>
>A while back I asked for advice on how to redo my plastic(or whatever)
>panels inside my 95 Eclipse RS. A few people suggested a special spray.
>Well, I spent about 20 bucks on spray, and covered ALL my panels correctly,
>but the stuff is crap -- it peels off at the slightest scrath, it flakes
>off -- It ruined all my panels.
Hmmm. depends on how well you prepped/cleaned your panels before painting..
I 'restored' an interior to an old muscle car with a 'special spray' - but
FIRST I had to clean the panels with a very strong cleaner, then rinse them
VERY carefully - then keep from touching the panels (finger oil, ya know)
and even then - I had to be very careful spraying them.
My paintjob lasted two years, without ANY fade or scratching off.
Pete
Interior painting specialist >: )
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 22:44:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: March issue of Turbo Mag. , Fluke engines, small world.
Message-ID: <#16>
Just got the March issue of Turbo Mag. More project Talon. I won't spoil it
and tell what the newest heartache is with the "Outlaw" car. Wish I had all
of the parts that the car has had. Be running 11.00's if it was my car.
Interesting letter and picture in Mail Call. I was at that track that day
in London. Canada. The first time ever to that track for me. The Yellow
Corvette in the picture is my friend's, Greg. It beat the Syclone that run.
I talked to the Syclone owner, seeing how I still have mine. (Put away and
stored where it is safe, dry, and with only 3000 miles.) He was from New
York and had driven four hours to get to that track. His dad had a Buick GN.
It was a turbo club meet that day.
He could have gotten a few more tenths out of the truck, but was scared to
have me paperclip the relays. He had a long drive home.
I have the truck on video tape, including that pass. Cold and windy day. I
almost fell over the top rail of the stands taping. Was like 45 degrees.
The Vette has run a best of 11.91 at 119.8 mph on the stock tires and
stock engine.
Nothing has ever been apart. Just has an NOS wet system, no air filter, and
colder plugs. He has went numerous 11.90's at 118-119.
Funny thing is Greg called NOS and asked what a 94 automatic with a 3.73
gear
should run on 150 HP. They said high 12's.
He called Ligenfelter. They
said to run 11's, they could build a $15,000 engine. After telling them he
did it for $800, they didn't believe it.
Really think he just got "One" of those engines. It has seen over 65
bottles of Nitrous now and has never failed. Not even a bigger fuel pump.
Best on engine alone, 12.98 at 103 mph.
First time I met him. My Talon ran a 12.67 at 111.69 mph, had a bad misfire.
So I parked it. He straps me in the Vette since I am much lighter than him,
135 pounds to 220 pounds. Made a practice pass on engine. Then bottle.
1.80 60 ft., good 1/8th mile, then it ran out of nitrous. 12.40 at 108
popping. Oh well. That was the second bottle used up that day. He ran
12.05 three times in a row, then 12.03. Then put me in to see if it would
pick up more. Too late. Five passes per bottle, I was on the sixth.
Really hope to move to the west coast by this fall, if not sooner. Then hit
all of the Import races and see if I can generate some DS ink. If nobody
beats me to it, you know, gets a car all dialed in and flying. It's possible
somebody will get one to run, maybe.
Watch for the new issue. Who wants to bet it takes till "Talon XI" before
they get the "driveline" problems worked out? Ridiculous.
Safe motoring. Man this below zero weather is making some HP.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 17 Jan 97 23:20:15 PST
Subject: Mirrors, Alternators, Tires and Wheels
Message-ID: <#17>
Observations and comments regarding several recent posts:
1. Both my '92 1.8 and '93 2.0 Eclipses had black plastic mirrors.
I never polished the '92 mirrors, but they were polished when I
got the '93. Polished is better IMO. The mirrors on both cars still
look good. However, the flat(er) portion that attaches to the door,
sort of flush with the window, was shedding its skin like a snake
on the '92 and is beginning to do so one one of the '93 mirrors. It
is sort of a rubber material with a clear coat. I haven't figured out
what to do about it yet. Clear laquer, maybe?
2. When AutoWeek does a full test on a car, they list a few parts and
what they cost, like fenders, hood, wheel, headlights and alternators.
It is incredible what some of those parts cost. I just looked through
one of their recent buyers guides and alternators went from $200,
for some American cars, to $900 on some higher dollar foreign cars.
Would you believe $880 for a Porsche 911 Turbo, whoose headlight
assembly is $1072 BTW. AutoWeek says the '95 Eclipse alternator is
$295 and a headlight assembly is $343.
3. The 1G 2.0 NTcars had 16" tires and wheels, just like their big brother T.
The 1.8 had 14" as does the '95 - '97 2.0 NT. And, at least on the '92 ~
94, the 14" and 16" will interchange with no problem, unless the bigger
brakes of the T cars preclude the swap. A black top was standard on
'94 2.0 cars and probably on the '92 & '93 as well. The spoiler was colorkeyed rather than being black as on the Talons and was an option on
the 2.0 NT.
4. What the heck is the dummy button above the fog light switch? Is it for
the pop-up headlights?
[Yes. - talon mgr]
Regards,
Dave spouting-off as usual Campbell
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 22:33:55 -0700
From: Craig Lucero <lucero@frii.com>
Subject: [1G T] Odor
Message-ID: <#18>
Lately my Talon emits a horrible odor whenever I push
the RPMs past 4500. The smell lasts for about three or
four minutes, but it sometimes requires the unrolling
of my windows. If anyone knows the source of the stench, I
would greatly appriciate it. I am looking to do all of the
stage one mods, and don't want to start modifying a car that has
problems.
Craig Lucero
91 Talon TS
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 00:53:58 -0500
From: Lambert Knowles <lamind@bahamas.net.bs>
Subject: Electrical Problems ?
Message-ID: <#19>
Ok, its 12:43am and Iam just getting in from having my baby towed home.
Please someone give me some ideas before I think of calling Satan.
I installed my new 16G turbo, Thanks Dave it runs much better and
quieter than before, and decided to try it out. Took the car up to
120mph, that's somewhat diffcult on an island 30miles by 15miles,
everything ran fine. Easy off the gas and drove for five minutes and the
radiator, battery and brake light come on. Its starts to idle real funny
for a while but still driveable. Stop to a station and leave it on for
ten minutes. The idle suddenly settle down and the lights go out on its
own. Ok drove home half way there the lights come on again and same
strang idle, this time the radio cracks a few times. Got home check the
battery, spark plugs, EUC codes everything ok. Start it up two hours
later and everythings fine but as soon as boost gets on the lights
again, this time all lights are going dim including the headlights,
Cybredyne gauge is reading full rich, the car fights for about ten
minutes to stay on then dies. No power, no start, nothing. 4 hours later
and a tow truck Iam home again.
I believe this must be electrical, but why the strange idle?
Maybe the alternates gone and I was driving on battery the whole time
until it dead, but why kick in at boost, did the fuel pump pull that
much more power?
Anyone have similiar problem please let me know. Iam going after the
voltage regulater, alternate etc, first. Please advise?
THanks
Lambert
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 17 Jan 1997 23:40:31 -0700
Subject: movies
Message-ID: <#20>
Hi guys,
Just saw First Strike w/ Jackie Chan and like his other movies, there were
quite a few Mitsu cars in there.
One of the last scenes he jumps a car into a boat. I'm not sure but the
only car that matches is the FTO that is on the Mitsu Japan web sight.
Can anyone confirm this?
Its kind of a neat looking car(even if we can't get it here)
Just a little curious.
Bob Fischer
DSM irc: TsiBob
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 02:27:51 -0500
Subject: [1G, T] different idle prob, other stuff, etc.
Message-ID: <#21>
Hello everyone,
This is a little long, I was bored at work and thinking when I came up
with a few more thoughts that I have been looking for clues on:
A different idle problem I have a different idle problem than the one that is usually mentioned
here. I have my idle set to around 1000+- rpm because if I turn on my
AC it drops to the normal 600-700 rpm. Sometimes (AC off) the idle
drifts down a bit on it's own (around 800 rpm) but usually will return
to the setting I have it at. Lately since we have been having colder
weather here, I've noticed that it has creeped up to 1100-1200. It runs
like this even when the engine is warm. I seem to recall someone once
saying there is an AC relay that holds the idle steady when the AC is
turned on. Is this true? Where is it located, any way to test it, and
how much does a new one cost? And would this only affect the idle when
the AC is on or possibly at other times as well?
Clunk A few people in the past have mentioned that they hear a clunk in the
rear when going over bumps, etc. I'm not sure if it pertains to FWDs, I
think most people who mentioned it had RWDs. I've always assumed that
it was some of the stuff I have with my spare tire that was jarring. Is
it actually a part of my car that may be doing it that I should check?
Shift Mod Okay, everyone is ranting about this shift mod. I did mine about 2
weeks ago now, but maybe I was expecting more. Mine seems to shift a
little better and is tighter, but I still encounter a good amount of
resistances and clunkyness going between 1-2-3 gear. I'm going to look
at it again and redo some of it. I want to make sure the cables are the
right length, raise the corners all up level (one side of mine on the
back right has a weld joint that doesn't allow the shifter to rest flat)
and add those thin rubber washers in to quiet it a bit. Should this
thing feel that much better? I read here a few places that sell a mod
kit with prices ranging between $15-25. Anybody tried one of these yet?
Shop Manuals A while ago I remember talk of someone going to print up shop manuals
for our car, but there were debates on legalities, etc. Was something
ever done, can we get copies? I'd be interested in one for my car.
Turbo Magazine Well I've been getting the last several issues of Turbo since I found
the digest last summer. Only one store around me carries it and sooner
or later I plan on subscribing. Does anyone have any back issues they
want to get rid of? Particularly ones with info on our cars. To buy
each back issue I think runs $5 each, and being tight on money at this
point, I was wondering if someone is planning to toss any of their old
issues. Or if I could get copies of the articles on our car, that's all
I really would like to see.
After Market Car Stereo Noise Here's one for anyone who has had noise with an aftermarket stereo. A
few years ago I installed my old Kenwood along with a Pioneer EQ. I
always had electronic noise but it was suspected that it was my EQ since
the same setup had the same problem (just not as pronounced) in my old
car and I was told that I had a bad ground inside my EQ. Well almost 2
years ago I replaced the EQ with a Kenwood one and have the same noise.
I brought the car back to Sound Advice who installed the system and
first told me of the ground, but they were not able to figure out what
the noise was. The excuse this time was with all the new electronics in
cars and this was an older stereo, the system wasn't able to filter out
the noise as well as the newer systems. It still sounds like a bad
ground, but where? Everything is grounded. I have actually two
noises. One is a hum and the other is a distinct buzz. Both vary with
rpm. Sometimes the buzz is quiet, but other times it is really loud and
annoying. This buzz disappears when I put a cassette in, but the hum is
still there. My friend just put a system in his Eclipse (it's Pyramid's
Legacy setup) and his noise is even worse. Do our cars have this
problem and how is it solved?
Stall and paint update I sent off a letter to Chrysler asking what might be causing my stalling
that I have been trying to figure out. I hope that maybe they have
encountered this type of stall before. I also mentioned that my paint
has faded down to the primer in many areas, and asked if the ever had a
recall on a bad batch. Now I wait to see what they say.
And for you headlight pop-up electronic gurus I did a mod to my pop ups. Yes, another different way of doing it. I
think mine is a bit more complex than everyone elses so far, but I was
kinda picky how I wanted them to work. I wanted a seperate switch to
activate the lights ONLY (not the running lights to) while the pop-ups
are down. This way I could put them on and off when I wanted and they
would be like DRLs without the sidemarkes all on too. But I also wanted
my normal light switch to work without having to touch the pop-up
button. And to add a little more fun, an indicator that I can tell when
I have them on.
Now to see if I remember how I did it, it's been a few months. I
installed the switch (a small round rocker from Radio Shack) on the left
side of the steering column. I also placed a green LED (also Radio
Shack. They have one with a built in resistor in both red and green. I
used one of these) on the upper left of the column facing me when this
switch is on. Rather than running a hot line out to the engine
compartment I made it into a ground wire. I installed a relay that will
activate when the ignition is in the ON position (not in ACC) that
allows this ground to work. When the switch is then on, it flips
another relay I placed in the engine compartment. When this relay
triggers, it sends a positive current to the headlights from the
battery. I have a fuse between the battery and this relay.
It all seems to work fine, except...when I have this switch on and I use
the brights (either when in just DRL mode or when the lights are up) it
pops the fuse I made by the battery. Somewhere when the brights are
activated the setup grounds itself. My guess is that I have the hot
lead going to the lights wrong. Anyone know what the individual
contacts are on the lights? There are three. I figure one for low
beam, one for high, and one ground. I was shooting in the dark here,
but when I applied 12 volts it lit up, so I thought that I had it.
The LED I had activate when the switch comes on using the same ground,
but I think I may run a small wire in from the relay in the engine that
will activate it. This way if I blow the fuse, I can tell.
Well, that's it this time. Sorry about all the space.
Mike
IRC: RS-Turbo
'91 Laser RS-T
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 02:51:51 -0600
Subject: Re: 4K noise problem fixed
Message-ID: <#22>
~-----Well to make a longstory short, like I thought, THE TIMING WAS OFF TWO
TEETH . SOoo they replaced the belt($50) and the tensioner ($100), and
with labor it took 4 days and $450 to get my friggin timing belt replaced
and my car back.
~----I had my timing belt changed at Mancari's in Oak Lawn, Il. in September,
'96. I have a suspicion that my timing is off a couple teeth like Mario's.
Starting at about 4K, the car is kinda loud. It makes me not want to take
it to 5K. However, it's not resonating anything in the interior like when I
did the belt myself 180deg out of alignment.
Anyway, I know if I bring it back to SATAN, they'll somehow "not hear" what
I hear and dismiss it. They don't want to take a loss on warrantee work on
a job they did months back. However, I think if I take it to a different
Mancari's Jeep/Eagle, like the one in Orland Park, Il., and not mention the
work the other Mancari's did, I'm sure they'll know what's wrong. Then, I
can give them the go-ahead to fix it and when they try to charge me, show
them my Mancari's 12month/12K warrantee from September! Good idea?
BTW, they did not replace the tensioner when it was changed in September.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 03:22:33 -0600
Subject: Fw: Alaskan DSM'er
Message-ID: <#23>
I tried to e-mail Karl but his e-mail won't work. Karl, do you have the
address and could you e-mail me to verify?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
From: Smokin <Smokin@csinet.net>
To: atket@UAA.ALASKA.EDU
Hey!!! It's really cool to have and Alaskan Diamond Star quy on the Talon
Digest!!! Hope you enjoy the page, and digest, all though you may have
been here before me!!! My paint also looks pretty good although I'm a
virgin compared to your car. I only have a few chips in the hood that were
there when I bought my 92 GSX last January with only 10,500 miles on
it!!!!!! My mirrors are flaking the black paint off though. Why they even
painted these mirrors is beyond me as the plastic is black anyway.
What mods do you have? Also, would it be practical to drive an Eclipse AWD
to Alaska from the lower 48?
Later,
Dave
92 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 09:01:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Brake Fluid Choices
Message-ID: <#24>
Several members have asked about different brake fluids. For race
applications ONLY I use Castrol SRF, or Motul Blue. Why not for the street?
because they absorb moisture MUCH more than other fluids. Racing fluid has a
poor wet boiling point. I always bleed my brakes before every event, and
use only fluid from an unopened container. I never save an opened can of
brake fluid for later use.
Silicone fluid is CRAP. I bought some of this junk for my track car
because of the high boiling point. The can claimed it was compatable with all
fluids, so I bled it through the front brakes only(Mustang fronts get very
hot)
What I didn't know is that silicone fluid gets compressable when it warms
up! Only the rear brakes worked, and I sailed off a corner. It took 3 days
to get all the sand out of the car.
What should you use on the street? Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3! This is so
good, that some race teams are using it.
So, swallow your pride, and belly up to the Ford parts counter for a pint.
John C.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 09:19:15 -0500
From: John Hindle <hindle@nbcs.rutgers.edu>
Subject: RE:alternators
Message-ID: <#25>
Well, as all the guys on IRC know, i just changed my alternator. Very easy
job as long as you take out the A/C fan. I did check with a dealer by me
and they wanted 500 bucks or so. Pep Boys has a rebuilt one for 150 (plus
35 for core).
When you change it, the manual might say that you have to pull off the
driver side splash shield. DON'T! it's not necessary! there should be a
little hole that you can get the pivot bolt out of. That's how it was on
mine. Once you get that off, it's a piece of cake getting it out. But, BE
CAREFUL and don't hit your radiator! cause it's really tight.
good luck
John "outta control with the FWD and 18psi with pump" Hindle
1990 Laser rs
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 14 Jan 1997 15:11:05 -0800
Subject: Re: [2G,T] Infinity CD Player + CD-R
Message-ID: <#26>
>The CD player in my 96 Talon skips about 20% of the sound on any CD-R
>disc that I have tried on it. Since I have discovered the problem, I
>have tried CD-Rs in as many CD players (car and otherwise) that I can get
>my hands on. So far, only the Talon skips and stalls.
This is most likely due to the CD mechanism, but it may be inherent in the
design so you may not have a defective CD player.
The problem is that CR-R disks aren't as good a source as a real CD so if
the CD player is picky it can get lots of read errors from a CD-R disc.
Plus CD changers have a tendency to scratch CDs which make a CD-R go from
bad to worse.
Keep the CD-Rs away from all heat and try a different brand next time. Not
all CD-Rs are created equal. Also, make the CD at single speed, that
causes the least amount of problems.
Good luck,
Mark
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 11:28:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brandeis? <ST950288@PIP.CC.BRANDEIS.EDU>
Subject: tank recall, etc.
Message-ID: <#27>
Hey all,
Following Dan Lee's recommendation to take my car to South Shore Mitsubishi
(THANKS DAN!) I had the fuel tank recall done and inquired about having
those belts replaced for the cold start whine and also the windshield
wiper nozzle TSB.
First of all these guys didn't seem like your typical demon...
in fact they seemed almost human. But really, these guys were cool..
washed my car with freezing water and everything.
About the cold start whine...they're only ordering two parts...
MD182537 Pully, Timing Belt
MD308587 Adjuster, Timing Belt
Now, the first one matches the description as in the digest. The tensioner,
balance (MD192068) seemed to have been thrown out. Part MD185539, the
adjuster, seemed to have been replaced with MD308587. Is there a difference
here?
About the Windshield wiper TSB...the guy didn't seem to know what a TSB
was...but he checked out the nozzles and found nothing wrong. He explains
that since my car was a late comer, many of the defects were found and
fixed. I don't think so. I clearly remember one summer day when I had rub
out windshield wiper fluid stains leaking from the nozzles. The advisor,
Rick Welch, said that this is because of fluid that wasn't completely
forced out of the nozzle the last time I used them. Ok.
Other than that, I'm taking my GSX to South Shore Mitsubishi in Hanover from
now on...at least they don't test drive your car at WOT when you complain
about a problem at idle speeds. Oh..one more thing, I've received a strange
card from Garden City, NY saying "Reminder. Vehicle Owner: Please call at
your earliest convenience concerning your vehicle." Anyone have any idea
what this is?
Thankxalot!
=Paul
Braintree, MA
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 14:36:04 -0500 (GMT-0500)
From: Boosted <boosted@warcraft.rutgers.edu>
Subject: HoDT
Message-ID: <#28>
hey HoDT, do u guys sell hats?
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 15:35:13 PST
From: redracer@juno.com (SEAN E. ELLIS)
Subject: [NT] Electric Supercharger
Message-ID: <#29>
[Please hit <RETURN> at 75 columns. -talon mgr]
To All NT Owners Who Want More Power:
I just saw an advertisement on TNN during Hot Rod Magazine for an electric
supercharger.
They claim a 30% increase in horsepower when added to your vehicle. The
system consists
of a compressor with housing, controller unit, and mounting hardware. Spool
up time to full
boost is 0.03 seconds. The commercial says they have a unit for nearly every
vehicle application
including motorcycles. The unit is also warranted for 500,000 miles. The
starting price is
$1500.00 (not too bad considering that aftermarket turbo systems go for about
$3500.00, but
not so good considering a factory turbo on a new car was about a $1000.00
option). In any
case, I guess system just sits in the plumbing between the MAS and the intake
to the throttle
body since it uses the battery or alternator for power to compress instead of a
pulley hook-up
or exhaust gas to spool-up. I'm not sure how the controller works as far as
when it makes
boost or how it is linked to the throttle and the response, but I will ask these
and other questions
when I get a representative on the phone. I called the number today and I got
an answering
service, so I left my number and hopefully they will call me back on Monday. I
am wondering
if we will need better fuel pumps that flow more to compensate for the
increase in air mass
so we don't run lean and get detonation. I am also wondering if the units could
handle more
than 12 - 14 volts from the battery or the comparable output from the alternator
so they could
spin faster and make more boost...like hooking up two 12 V batteries in series
to the unit
(only to the compressor, not to the controller) to get twice the boost. All of
this interests me
because I thought of the concept of an electric supercharger about a year ago
and designed,
built, and tested a smaller version of what they are marketing for an
independent study project
for my BS in Mechanical Engineering. I used a smaller fan-type pump
connected to the battery
and air mass controlled by a rheostat connected to the throttle linkage. I got
about a 16% increase
in horsepower and 14% increase in torque when I put it on the engine dyno, so
I think their claims
of 30% could be legitimate since it is larger and has a better controller.
Anyway, if anyone knows
more about this or already has one, please e-mail the list or at least RTP. If
anyone wants to talk
to them for themselves, the company name is SUPERPAC and their number is
(805) 383-6720.
I hope this turns out to be as cool as it sounds..lets see...135HP * 1.30 (30%
increase) = 175.5 HP
for the Mitsubishi 2.0 NT and 140HP * 1.30 = 182 HP for the Neon 2.0 NT..and
that's not counting all
the other mods I have done.
Sean Ellis
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 18:18:25 -0500
Subject: Air box mods/ boost solenoid
Message-ID: <#30>
Hey guys,
Well, despite the cold for Florida weather, I managed to do some mods this
morning. I took off the horn, the silencer, the small MAS honeycomb, and
the little restriction out of the boost solenoid. I was just want to make
sure that its okay to running do this stuff without the exhaust being
upgraded.
As for increasing boost, I was just wondering has anyone tried putting a
second solenoid to bleed off more air. I was thinking this would be simpler
to make for cockpit adjustment than routing hoses.
Mario
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 18:47:20 EST
Subject: Re: 1991 Tsi Problems
Message-ID: <#31>
Regarding my message sent on 1/17/97, about rough idle and
hesitation problems, please disregard it. I found the problem. After
replacing the spark plugs and fuel filter I noticed that the #3 plug wire
had an abrasion on the boot. This abrasion created an arc between the
head and the plug. It all comes down to a simple replacement of the
spark plug wires. Thank you very much for all the help and suggestions.
Cory Deeds
1991 Tsi
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 17:43:08 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Alternators, Rear Ends {1G, T, AWD}
Message-ID: <#32>
I had the alternator rebuilt in my Eclipse last year and I have not had
any problems with it at all. My only regret is that I took it to the
dealer, they charged me 250 dollars! The alternator is really easy to
remove too.
I posted last week about the rear LSD in my car making some strange
noises. When I dumped the fluid out of it I could feel loose parts laying
in the bottom of the casing. So I want to take the cover off of the rear
of the differential. I removed all of the bolts and the RTV really has a
grip on it, what is the best way to break it loose? The other thing is
regarding the rear support, is there anything I should worry about if I
unbolt it from the underside of the car? I already removed the two bolts
that attach it to the diff. This is my last question, is there anyone
that rebuilds or can replace the pinion(?) gear that is in the rear diff?
The guys at the Eagle dealer said that the gears are probably the problem
since the LSD was still working. But they would have to see inside of it
first.
Anyone who has experience with the rear diffs in our cars please respond
because I am really in a jam.
Thanks,
Jess 90 GSX
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 21:22:48 +0500
Subject: TOUR '97
Message-ID: <#33>
So far only 13 people have expressed interest for about
the tour of the facility in Normal, IL
I will be contacting them (mitsu) this week to arrange
the tour, I'm hoping to get a lot more people.
Todd, how many are coming in your caravan from California ?
[Not sure yet. -talon mgr]
If anyone else is invovled in a "caravan" to the shootout and
wants to come to TOUR '97 let me know the number of people
coming and where from.
btw: Normal is about 8 hours from Norwalk, (or 4 hours by DSM)
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 20:31:24 -0600
From: b-grane@students.uiuc.edu (BRAD GRANE)
Subject: T1G x-fer case , dealer horrors
Message-ID: <#34>
Thanx for all your help with my transfer case questions last week. In
addition to an $1800 x-fer case, they also replace some tranny pieces and a
control arm. They charged us for 8+ hours of labor. $4005, and two weeks
later, I get the car back with messed up alignment. The dealer says
they'll fix it free of charge. When I go to pick it up, they say that the
control arm has nothing to do with the alignment. They say that they
swapped the two front wheels and now it pulls to the right. I noticed no
such pull to the right. I finally took it to the local tire shop that our
fleet vehicles have used for 8+ years. they fixed the alignment. My dad
footed the bill cuz college students are poorer than ever these days and is
now considering sueing them. They also did not offer to let me see the
used parts. Is there a law for this in Illinois? Any input would be
welcome. I guess I really need to find a good trusted mechanic.
BRADFORD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 21:18:44 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Rear Differential
Message-ID: <#35>
Sorry about the double post but between the time that I posted before and
now I figured out how to remove the carrier and the differential. My
question now is how in the world do you remove to two upper bolts that
hold the diff to the suspension subframe? I remember Dave B. saying that
was the toughest part of removing the diff so, what advice does everyone
have to make this tough job easier(possible?).
Thanks a lot,
Jess 90 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 18 Jan 1997 21:09:39 -0800
From: "Jeff " <stigerj@ns.net>
Subject: [1G, T] No more Die Hard Batteries!?
Message-ID: <#37>
Hello all,
The Die Hard Gold finally died in my car the other day, so I went to Sears
to replace it. I was told that Sears no longer makes the Die Hard Gold
(or any Die Hard) that fits my car, so I had to settle for a SEARS 60. Is
this true???
Although it is probably too late, is there any other battery that would
be comparable to the DH gold (warranty, CCA, performance, etc.). Probably
RTP, unless others are interested.
Thanks,
Jeff
90 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 19 Jan 1997 00:44:00 -0500
From: RENEGAR <drenegar@cdc.net>
Subject: Temporary Oil Burn? - or Big Problem? Please Advise! (1G, T)
Message-ID: <#38>
Hey guys,
Here's what happened : I have a '91 Tsi AWD with 72k on it. This
morning, it was about 30 degrees F. outside and about 2 minutes after
startup, I'm driving down the road and suddenly I notice a trail of blue
smoke coming from the rear of my car viewed through the rear-view
mirror, but wasn't too sure what was up. I was caught by a red light
only a few seconds later and then the entire car was consumed by this
blue smoke pouring out of the exhaust, so I pulled into a parking lot
and popped the hood, got out, and saw oil all over the engine bay. The
car smelled like burned oil and it was still pouring out the back.
Here's the weird part. The car never idled any differently, my
turbo/vacuum gauge showed 18.9 in/Hg. the entire time at idle. The oil
pressure gauge was normal and no warning lights came on, and...no
abnormal noises.
I kept examining the thing and noticed a bit of dampness around my
crankcase breather filter..water and oil mixed, just a bit, not much.
The oil on the dipstick looked fine and the water in the radiator
opening looked clear. And now get this...after about 5 minutes the smoke
completely stopped pouring out the back and all was totolly fine. Never
any power loss either. Did it just have a temporary fit?=20
Ok...any ideas? I've never seen this happen to any car before nor have
I ever heard of it. Any one ever here of this, have it happen to them,
or offer any possible ideas?
Thanks,
Renegar '91 Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Sun, 19 Jan 1997 02:23:38 -0500 (EST)
NMastrocol@aol.com
Subject: (1G,T) Valve cover & gasket.
Message-ID: <#39>
I didn't get any response to this question last week so I'll try again. My
valve cover gasket is leaking some oil and I need to replace it but a couple
of bolt holes are stripped and wont't hold. Can I just tap the holes or will
I have to use a helli coil or similar insert. I am also thinking of using
some removable loc-tite on the bolts when I replace the gasket.
Also, my idle is a little rough and my vacuum at idle is only around 15, tell
me, am I losing vacuum from the leaky gasket?
Your input is appreciated.
91 Talon AWD.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 19 Jan 1997 09:53:33 -48000
From: bcurnow <bcurnow@sonnet.com>
Subject: [2G,T] 96 Talon Amplifier location?
Message-ID: <#40>
[RTP]
I am having my stereo system replaced with a Pioneer unit. The installer
was able to get the rear and door speakers running, but the dash speakers
apparently are run by a separate amplifer somewhere in the car. This
amplifier connected to the old unit with a 6-pin RCA DIN connector.
Does anyone out there know where this amplifier is located in the car so
that the installer could rewire those other speakers into the new unit?
Also, after the replacement is done, would anyone be interested in the
old unit? It is the Infinity Radio/CD/Tape system. I replaced it to get
some of the newer/cool features in the Pioneer system, and it works
fine. The Infinity is only five months old.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 19 Jan 1997 13:57:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: plug gaps
Message-ID: <#41>
Im about ready to throw all the mods back on my car, nearing the end of the
engine break in period.. any duggestions on a plug gap setting?? I am using
BPR7ES plugs and have the following mods..
MBC set at 16psi
HKS IC pipe
Exhaust,no cat
K&N air filter with cut can and MAS mods
NGK plug wires, if they ever get here TOM, :)
[RTP]
I know the stock gap setting is .032, but wanted to know if anybody
recommended a different setting since the boost is up.. Thanks for any help!!
Rusty Chappell
93 FWD Eclipse tuuuuuuuurbo
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 19 Jan 97 15:17:26 EST
From: Chris_Wirth@mlsonline.com (Chris Wirth)
Subject: New Products, Ideas & Questions
Message-ID: <#42>
In the quest for more speed and more reliable turboÕs, IÕm looking into a few
options to add to the list of mods... I found a few items of interest in the Feb
ÒTurboÓ mag:
1) Turbo Insulating Kit from Thermo-Tec: I called up and found out that their 4
cyl turbo kit (#15001) retailed for $98.78 and was available from JegÕs or
Summit. He said it was a stainless steel braided ÒhoodÓ that you cut down to
size to cover your Turbo to reduce or eliminate turbo lag and improve
performance via a cooler turbo and lower underhood temps... to the tune of
reducing radiant heat by up to 70%! Who else has tried this on their cars
without melting your turbo? While a meltdown would give me an excuse to
upgrade
to a 16G, IÕm not really clear on the definition of Òradiant heatÓ and how
keeping it from escaping the turbo would be healthy. Several people have
mentioned that wrapping your exhaust from downpipe back would be
beneficial.
2) G-Force Engineering / Jet ECU / SuperChips: ($300-$700) What is the overall
consensus on ECU upgrades? I refuse to accept an answer of Òthey are
uselessÓ or
such and would like some hard evidence that they DONÕT work... innocent
until
proven guilty. I am definitely very skeptical of anything
electronic that magically obtains between 10 and 25 HP without some proof
such
as a before and after dyno runs! IÕm sure that a VPC or PMS is still the better
way to go, but not all of us can spring for the coolest toys of engine tuning.
3) Vortech Engineering ÒMaxflow Power Cooler SystemÓ: (Price ?) I found this
item in the new products section of February Turbo mag and had some ideas...
I
remember that 2nd gen 5 Spd turbos donÕt have an Auto tranny cooler in the
driver side air intake and thought this might be a great way to further cool
down the turbo in some way. Although this air/water aftercooler might not be a
cost effective answer to cool down our turbos... how about feeding more oil to
the starving turbo or combining that with an oil cooler in the driver side air
intake? Could an auto tranny cooler be modified to cool oil fed directly to the
turbo? Could this be the answer to avoid cooking the oil in our 4 bangers?
4) Kenne-Bell Boost a Pump vs Fuel Pump Upgrade: What are the hard facts of
increasing the GPH rating of a stock fuel pump via a voltage increase. How
would
this effect fuel pump efficiency and service life? I read a post a few days back
that asked about the original GPH rating @ X PSI for a 1st Gen and 2nd Gen fuel
pump... can someone post the answer? IÕll lend you a bucket if needed...
I know these questions have been asked before, but if you have some new
input on
these products, please post it for the good of all DSM kind (including those
slow, overweight stealth/3000GTÕs... just kidding!)
Chris Wirth
Ô96 Eclipse GSX (soon to receive a shiny Extreme Upper IC pipe, among other
things)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 1997 13:18:09 -0700 (MST)
From: RYAN DENKE <ICEBABE@UWYO.EDU>
Subject: valve cover 4sale/new engine solved ticking noise
Message-ID: <#43>
I got my car back with a brand new engine last friday Boy does that
engine purr. I'd like to thank Archer racing for giving me a good deal
on a new engine. BTW, my old engine had a ticking noise. Now it's gone.
I guess replcing the engine fixed it - so if you've got a strange ticking
noise coming from your engine, try replcing it. OK, that's funny.
I sold my old non-turbo 2.0 engine block for $50. It was all I could get
out of it. If there are any parts off of it that anyone wants, LET ME KNOW
ASAP as I might still be able to get a part for you!
For sale: The valve cover from my 2.0NT engine is in good shape. I'll take
$50 or best offer for it.
PAINTLESS DENT REPAIR
I also got a dent removed from when a deer ran into my car. The dent was
Probably the equivalent of punching or kicking the drivers door as hard
as possible. The guy pushed, prodded, and pounded on the dent until it
came out - it was amazing! I can't even tell that it was there.
One comment he did make is that Chrysler/Jeep/Eagle put a pretty hefty
side impact protection bar in there and that I was lucky that he was
able to access the dent from the back side...
Ryan '91 NT with a *NEW* engine that purrs like a kitten *MEOW*
PS, the dent repair guy said that he can remove hail damage a lot
cheaper than a body shop. My roof and lift gate estimate was just
over $600 - he roughly estimated that he could fix it for $200!
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 19 Jan 1997 20:37:23 -0500
From: Stephen Mcdonnell <mcdonnell@icubed.net>
Subject: Running Out of Fuel...Ported MAS?
Message-ID: <#44>
Hey all, I didn't get a single reply on the idea of porting the
MAS...come on someone has to have tried this before...Dave?...
any of the others...
Secondly I finally got my Air Fuel gauge installed and its a pretty
nice unit ( cyberdyne ). My question pertaining to this is how can I
tell when I'm out of fuel thus possibly entering the danger zone. My 91
14G FWD has the usual free mods, custom flowmaster 2.5" cat back, No
airbox, K & N conical, and a manual bleeder valve set at 15 psi. To
test the A/F gauge I set the boost back to 11.7 and did a full hard
three gear run...full rich as soon as boost hits. The next run I did
was with boost set back to 15 psi...expecting some drop I just wanted to
see how much...Another full hard three gear run and still full rich all
the way till 7000, but at 7000 the LED I intalled on the solenoid
started to flicker. Other than that It ran perfect ( except alot of
torgue steer ).
I was getting curious at this point so I proceeded to do a series of
runs after this each time increasing the boost 1 psi. The only change I
encountered which I expected was the LED to come on faster and sooner.
At 20 psi the gauge finally dropped to the 9th bar but still red. Short
of buying a fuel pressure gauge or EGT is there any other method to
tell if I'm running out of fuel? The previous owner had done some mods
himself ( I'm guessing because of tell tale signs in the engine
compartment ) I wouldnt know if he would have put a pump in or what but
by the looks of it I have sufficient flow so far. The only mod tto the
fuel system I've done is bypass the solenoid in the regulator line ( to
eliminate the large puff of black smoke upon flooring it )
Dave B. by the way do you have any Buschur Racing stickers
available...? I'd like to do some advertising for ya ( at no charge to
you of course :) )
Well thanks all for the time and help.
Steve
91 RED GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 19 Jan 1997 22:13:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Lilsharky1@aol.com
Subject: 2G Times, Downpipe,and Cat
Message-ID: <#45>
Aloha fellow DSM'ers
This is my first post on the digest. I have a few questions. Frist off I have
a 96 GSX with the Greddy exhaust,upperintercooler pipe upgrade and type S
BOV,K&N type filter and last a HKS EVC III. The times I am getting with this
set up are 14.425 @ 90mph. Thats at 17 psi of boost.The 60' times are 1.881.
Are these times good or bad? Next I would like to know which downpipe I
should get 2.5 or 3.0 My exhaust is 2.5. Also can I run with out a cat? If so
what do I do about the O2 sensor aft of the cat. Thanks for the help.
Luke Reeder
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 19:39:58 -0800
From: William or Karen <naja@teleport.com>
Subject: (1g) Headlightthingy
Message-ID: <#46>
Just a quick question, does anyone with a 92-94 Talon have an extra
passenger-side outermost "blinker" light lense (thing lense thats on the
side of the car)?? I was backing out of my garage a while back and it
popped right out... its toast but the light blub dangles inside the
body...20
Thought I'd just check... I've been living without for almost a month
(or has it been a month?) When I look at my car from the left I think,
"What a wonderful car I have" when I look at it from the right I think,
"D'oh!" The deal wants about $60 bucks for it... so, maybe I should
just get it from them. . . but I don't want to. especially for 60
bucks.
I'd also like to ask Ray at MDSOG... about.. that... you out there,
...please comment...
thanks
William Moglia
93 Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date:
Sun, 19 Jan 1997 22:30:03 +0000
From: Bill Lawrence <wel@apwk01g3.abrfc.noaa.gov>
Subject: NOS
Message-ID: <#48>
>Make sure you mount the Fogger so that none of the nitrous/fuel mixture
>gets into the ISC port. A buddy of mine plumbed his Fogger before the
>throttle plate, and the first time he used it got a CHECK ENGINE light
>with the error code pointing to the ISC motor. We replaced the motor,
[Hmmm... that's odd. ISC won't flag on first gen car. -talon mgr]
Funny...that never happened to me...and I had my fogger in the TB
elbow. Made hundreds of runs with it. Of course I pointed the nozzle
in. I also have a 1st Gen. I have since went to a 4 port kit.
>Also, I was wondering why Dave and Bill gave up on the NOS. My
>understanding is that it did not make that much of a difference in 1/4
>mile times when you are running mid to low 11's. Was this due to the
>engine just not being able to handle the extra airflow?
I used to use NOS all the time. It was consistent in giving me
about 8/10th in the 1/4. However...once I got into the 11s raw...I
started having clutch problems. The clutch couldn't hold the hp on NOS.
Now...there are clutches that can hold it...but the next weakest link
goes. The tranny. And DSM trannies are expensive. I don't have
sponsors giving me trannies. That is why I stopped. Also...NOS was
becoming much more inconsistent when in the 11s raw.
BTW...anyone know if any magazine will be at the shootout this year?
We will probably only have 150 cars. And you won't be searched at the
gate!
bill
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 19 Jan 1997 23:52:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: FILLING UP...GET YOUR RESERVATIONS
Message-ID: <#49>
Hi all,
Well the L&K and the EconoLodge are booked full for the event already. That
is about 70 rooms. Looks like it is going to be a big one.
There are some changes to who to call from the last post I made. Skip the
Comfort in unless it is absolutely necessary. There rates are way to high.
The hotel to call right now is the Super 8, the number is 419-499-4671.
Anyone who calls make sure you mention you are with the Diamond Star
Shootout for an addional 10% savings. Also they need to know this to put us
all in one section of the motel. As a matter of fact if you don't mind
please call them back if you have already made reservations and let them
know
you are with the shootout. Super 8 has been very cooperative with the rates,
10% off like I said and they are holding their advertised rates. We have a
very large amusement park in the area and all these hotels fill quickly, as
they fill the rates go UP. So it is $38 for the 15th and $70 for the 16th
and 17th. Then the 10% off. Not bad. Please call now.
Thanks guys,
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 01:20:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Evolution 4 on Espn 2....
Message-ID: <#50>
Hey all,
Just thought some of you might have wanted to know that ESPN 2 was
showing an
Fia world Rally from Sweden. The Evo 4 won, and get this the car was left
hand drive. I had never seen that before, all the Evo 4's I had seen were
right hand drive. Anyone have some pull to get those over here?
Just thought you should know,
Robert
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 01:01:59 -0700 (MST)
From: turbogod@primenet.com (Speedline Racing)
Subject: Response To Tom S. & Gang
Message-ID: <#51>
To all the people who think I suck (so far only three):
I believe that the Talon Digest gave you a forum to look ridiculous.
What's your problem with me? Many racers on the digest know that the weak
link in the AWD platform is the driveline...Why do you think Dave Buschur is
building a RWD car? Dave and others that have pushed these cars into the 11s
are quite familar with the weak links. When your car reaches this
perfromance level perhaps you'll be able to understand the limitations of
the AWD driveline.
With the sport turbo 16G setup and Centerforce clutch combinations,
I never broke the center differetnial in the trans. Once we installed the
ported head, 20G turbo and some other go-fast goodies, Project Talon hasn't
made a full-power pass at the strip without breaking something. We also
changed the clutch combination at this point, which we now believe had a lot
to do with the driveline problems. We stand behind the decision to
experiment with these cluthces and we had minor gripes about the previous
clutch. Considering we're generating over 80 additional horsepower at the
wheels since running 12.04 at 113 mph, the transmission is being asked to
handle more power than ever. Nevertheless, we will find a solution.
So is it my driving? Well, to tell you the truth, that's definitely
part of it. But, driving technique has had nothing to do with the last two
failures. For the record, the last two transmissions were lost with
extremely soft launch techniques. The cause on these two failures is
believed to be clutch related. Looking to an old friend, we're working with
Centerforce to develope the "ulitmate clutch" for these cars. The
technologies incorporated in these prototype clutches will probably find
their way to the street in the standard Dual Friction setups. Thus, every
AWD enthusiast may one day be benefitting from the "Turbo Mike that sucks".
Tom & Gang (two others that sent the chain letter to my attention),
I love these cars. I've personally spent over $8,000 in driveline parts to
keep my Talon on the road every day. I'm personally committed to finding a
solution to the driveline dilemma. Currently, I have a 1988 Galant VR-4
(Japanese) transmission installed that is rear wheel and all-wheel drive
selectable. Will it be the hot ticket? We're not sure yet.
Turbo magazine is committed to telling its readers the whole truth.
No matter how ugly it is or how much it hurts. Sorry, if this has caused any
ill feelings. There are plenty of other magazines out there that lie to
their readers. Since I know I can't please all of the people all of the
time, I resort to Honesty being the best policy.
Best Regards,
Michael Ferrara, Turbo Magazine
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 05:09:54 -0800
From: auger <auger@cric.com>
Subject: Competition Stereo for sale and [2G] Sub Box
Message-ID: <#53>
The following competition system is out of a 2nd Gen. Eclipse and
sounds unbelievable.
Custom made/ custom fit sub box for 2G: box is made of 3/4" MDF, has
tons of bracing, two separate sealed chambers for each sub, gold
terminal jacks, and is covered in thick grey vinyl to match the
interior. It fits like a glove between the rear strut towers with the
subs angled flush against the rear seat and a large angled flat surface
(35" x 16") facing the rear so that amps and crossovers can be mounted
on it. It is designed for a pair of Boston Acoustic Pro 10.4LFs, but
will work extremely well with many subs. The internal volume of each
sealed chamber is exactly 1.4 cu. ft. and you could add ports if you
want. A box like this would cost well over $600 to have made at your
local shop. I'll sell it for $200. It would be easiest if someone in
the Boston area bought it to avoid shipping, but if someone wants to
pay shipping on this beast...
Boston Acoustics 6.4 Pro Series Speakers, 6" MidBass, Titanium Tweeters
and x-overs, in box w/ manuals. Custom "tweeter pod" mount for
fantastic imaging w/no cutting in 2G stock dash tweeter location,
MidBass fits right in stock door mounts, $350.
Boston Acoustics 5.4 Pro Series MidBass drivers (for rear fill) w/
plexi adaptors for 2G rear speaker mounts (no tweets or x-overs), $70.
a/d/s PS5.2- 2 x 45 Watt Bridgeable Amplifier, in box w/ manuals $125.
a/d/s PQ20.2- 4 x 80 Watt Brigeable Amplifier, in box w/ manuals $325.
Alpine 5-Channel active crossover with 4 inputs, 10 outputs (I don't
remember the number, 1.5 yrs. old), $125.
Steve
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 97 09:51:49 EST
From: "Brian Hinken" <brian@apam.com>
Subject: RE: [1g] paint condition (92 Talon)
Message-ID: <#54>
>I have 168K miles on my '92 Talon, and the paint looks just great. Not
>brand new of course, but pretty darn good.
My 92 Talon paint looks great too (Aqua color). Many people think my
car is brand new and are surprised when I tell them its a 92.
>Perhaps it's sunlight. I live in Alaska.
Well my car has lived its entire life in Florida so I don't think
sunlight has had an effect in my case.
I also believe that the color has alot to do with it. It seems that
colors like RED and SILVER seem to fade pretty fast in the sun. In fact
out of all the DSM cars I have ever seen, the only ones that were faded
(and faded badly) were the RED ones.
Brian(TSi)
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 97 10:05:37 -0600
From: Shawn_Murphy@beckett.com (Shawn Murphy)
Subject: Bad Idle (1G, NT, 2.0)
Message-ID: <#55>
Car: 1992 Eagle Talon Esi - automatic transmission, 58K miles
My girlfriend's car doesn't seem to want to idle above 400 rpm when the a/c
goes on and at stop lights/signs it wants to die, but won't. At 48K miles
(just a mere 10K) miles back, she had a complete tune up with new plugs,
wires, timing corrected, a couple of vacuum hoses and everything else that
goes with it. I looked at the receipt she kept and the problem explanation
column shows the same symptoms she has now. She said the problem was
never
really fixed, it just got somewhat better. What do you think could be the
problem? Has anyone with the NT 1G 2.0 had this problem? Also, she just had
a brand new alternator and battery put in on January 10th of this year. I'd
like to correct this problem because she wants to get rid of this car within
the next year and we feel this will mar the trade-in value. Thanks in advance
for any help,
Shawn Murphy
Dallas, TX
-----------------------------Date: 20 Jan 97 10:52:36 EDT
Subject: RE: tires and wheels
Message-ID: <#56>
Gabe,
215/40-16 are 215 mm lower than 215/50-16 and 251 mm lower than your
original
195/70-14.
Those are radius measures and I think this would be too much or too low.
Right 16" size for your car will be 205/55-16. Another option will be 225/50-16
if your rim can accept it.
215 is a size for 95+ AWD but with 55% of the width for the side height.
215/50-16 is a "new" one.
Fedja
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 11:26:11 -0500
Subject: HELP ME MAKE A NEW DEALER (REPAIR SHOP) PAGE
Message-ID: <#57>
After finaly understanding why Pete doesn't want to list any dealers on
his mechanic page (Having a GSX I sometimes forget how many people are
stuck taking their car to a Jeep dealer for warranty work, at which point
I achieved enlightment.... I also own a Jeep and you could kill me before
I'd give them my baby.....) I have decided to try (with your help) to get
the dealer page going again.
Since noone wants to admit to having an old copy of the dealer repair shop
page I am forced to conclude that I will have to start one from scratch. I
am going to expand it to basicly be a "dealer" page, rather than just
repair shops, that way people can know where to get their cars, as well as
where to get them repaired. So my request is for people who have an
opinion on a dealer [Pete, I'll just put you down for "They all suck!", is
that ok? or would you prefer something stronger? :-) ] to fill in as much
of the form below and mail it to me. Please use the big capital subject
line so that I can file them without much difficulty. Just fill in as much
as you can/want and I will, as they say, do the rest.
Once I start getting them I will make a page and post the location.
Also if anyone has any suggestions for additional information that should
be listed about dealers just let me know.
thanks
jon
~----------------- cut here --------------------Subject: DEALER PAGE ENTRY SUBMISSION
[**********************************************]
Dealership Name:
Dpt (R=Repair, N = New Sales, U= Used Sales):
Address:
City:
State:
Phone:
Rating (1-10):
Person(s) to talk to:
Story:
[**********************************************]
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 11:36:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: PMS unit for second generation for sale
Message-ID: <#58>
Decided to sell the PMS unit for my second generation Eclipse.
Reason being I have a few friends who work at a manufacturer of custom fuel
injection systems. And am getting a stand alone system, either Haltech or
DFI, for my car. A speed density system with infinite tunability.
So I am offering the PMS unit. Easy to install, only took a half hour.
Easy to program. Setting one is all stock. No need to do anything
there. Setting two is a little bit more than stock, boost wise mainly
Setting three has more timing and fuel table changes. And is where the
most gain can be felt. I have this setting programmed and it provided a 2
tenths and 2 mph gain after only a few passes at the track. Then it rained.
Didn't get to make any more runs. Definitely more left in the unit.
Drivability on the street can really be felt. Part throttle settings make
a large noticable difference. I've done those tables also, Part load, medium
load, and high load. But mainly WOT is where I concentrated.
PMS only has a few hundred miles on it. I never drive my GSX, it's just a
race type car.
Uses the stock mass air on the second gen. units. Since the mass air is so
large and free flowing. Asking $975 firm. Anyone interested, please e-mail
me at Sloclone@aol.com.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 11:41:46 -0500
Subject: Re: [2G,T,AWD] fuel tank recall
Message-ID: <#59>
>rep: you know you get 17 gallons,its in the recall
>me: that would be a neat trick getting 17 gallons in a 15.9 gallon tank
>rep: I mean they allot 17 dollars
Stan,
They are not reading it right, you get a FULL tank of gas (well for
certin if you have a GSX, but since you also say $17 I will assume that they
are identical recall notices), the dealer gets $25 dollars! because they get
to mark the gas up by 40% as if it was a spare part! (it says the markup pays
for the labor time to fill the tank, but it dont take 10 minutes to fill a
gas tank.....)
> All in all I'm satisfied with what they did. if you don't hear from
>me in a week I give them my unconditional endorsement for the fuel tank
>recall.
If your car has not exploded by the end of the week why don't you send me
your unconditional endorsement for the new dealer page (Plug Plug....) :-)
jon
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 13:19:43 -0500 (EST)
From: "Bryan K. Swain" <bks@vt.edu>
Subject: [1G] Timing belt replacement
Message-ID: <#60>
Well, my car is getting close to 67k miles, and everyone is telling me I
better think about having the timing belt replaced, so I finally called the
dealer and made an appointment to have it done. The phone estimate was
$275, which I assume includes labor. That sounds reasonable to me since I
have heard others say in the range of $500.
I'm just curious if there is any additional info I should have when I go in
there, say, little things that they might not do or do right if I don't
mention it to them?? The appt is Wed., 1/22 at 1:00pm, so if anyone could
get back to me before then [RTP, preferably!!] I'd really appreciate it!
Thanks,
Bryan Swain
quick_ag
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 15:58:00 -0500
Subject: 16G needed
Message-ID: <#61>
I am in need of a used 16G turbo. I am looking for one that is
ported and not clipped, but will consider a clipped unit as well.
E-mail me if you have one you want to or are thinking of getting rid
of.
thanx,
Damon Root
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 12:00:21 -0800
Message-Id: <199701211134.DAA18679@bbfm.di.com>
To: talon-digest-outgoing
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) darren.y.moy
Chrysler in Forbes
2) Damon Root
good hotel deal for Norwalk
3) Bruce Pember x3251 SATAN Story 2GT
4) Jeff Sammaritano
Thanks and New Clutch. 1GT
5) BRETT_NASHLUND
Tire clearance (2g-T) Problem solved
6) Jeffasourus Rex
Re: Thomas Harrington, brake light
7) Mark Hessler
Fuel Pressure and Mileage
8) Name Withheld Upon R 1G,T:altenators
9) Extreme Motorsports Directions from anywhere to Norwalk.....and where
10) TURBOTLN1
first post,parts for sale
11) Pete
deep thoughts re:turbo mag
13) BRIAN HO
Audio problems
14)
16)
17)
18)
19)
20)
21)
22)
23)
24)
25)
26)
27)
28)
29)
30)
31)
32)
33)
34)
Tom Stangl
"Taking all the wrong steps, but getting nowhere"
Edward Puskaric
RE: fuel cut question
SAVARIA, MICHEL
Real mileage
SAVARIA, MICHEL
Amplifier location
Stephen Torchia
[2G, T] Cold start whine
Scott Preston
Eletrical Problems
Dan Warren
Snow Tires [2G]
Dan Warren
1st Oil Change [2G T]
Phil Grady
1G, T Electrical Problems
Tome
paint fade
Ian Jordan
RE: Aftermarket Stereo Noise [1G]
CLIPSEE
Lifter replacement
The4Bangr
reservations
Jake McClean
Bleeder install for 95+ [2g, T]
Majorhouse
Greetings, answers, questions (2G, NT)
James Roth
DSM odor / Normal IL / Batteries
Jeff Sammaritano
PROfec installation WEB site.
gselph
Roll cage, TLC show
James Roth
mini-fuel cuts (continued)
Tome
Of axles and articles
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date:
From:
20 Jan 97 10:53:42
"darren.y.moy" <darren.y.moy@ac.com>
Subject: Chrysler in Forbes
Message-ID: <#1>
Good Day All:
Finally read the January 13 edition of Forbes. They had more than a few
accolades for the Chrysler Corp., but they did mention a few problems:
1) While Chrysler products are no longer perceived in the "Crap" category,
their quality may not prove any better than any other car company.
2) Even if Chrysler is making great cars, the dealers are still terrible. It's
kind-of tough to build customer loyalty (and make a profit) if the dealers are
hacks. Forbes stated that many dealerships out there have been around for 20
years, so it's hard to get them to learn new ideas about customer service. The
magazine also said that, since Chrysler was viewed as subpar to GM and Ford
20
years ago, someone was awarded a Chrysler dealership because he/she
couldn't
get a GM or Ford dealership.
DM, '95 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 16:41:10 -0500
Subject: good hotel deal for Norwalk
Message-ID: <#2>
Guys/Gals,
I know that some of the hotels are full and some are filling
fast in Norwalk for the Shootout. Dave listed a Comfort Inn within
the list of hotels in his post a few days ago, but I know of another
one as well. I stayed at a brand new Comfort Inn just 5 miles
further down the road (from the other Comfort Inn) last year during
the Hot Rod Power Tour which was the week before. This place is
really nice (more like a Holiday Inn) and is only $48/night. I called
the other Comfort Inn and they wanted $120/night for May 16. I'll
drive 5 miles to save $72 and stay at a nicer facility thank you. I
know we all like to save money whenever possible. Joe Jankord,
myself, and two other guys with DSMs are already booked in there.
Sounded to me like they had a lot of rooms left! The phone # is:
(419) 621-0200.
thought I'd share this,
Damon Root
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 97 13:32:10 PST
From: bpember@eng.adaptec.com (Bruce Pember x3251)
Subject: SATAN Story 2GT
Message-ID: <#3>
Now, maybe this is simply because this is my first new car that I have ever
purchased, but I thought that when a vehicle is under warranty, you don't
have to pay money for things to be fixed on it.
I have been having numerous problems with my Eclipse since the day I bought
it. Nothing extremely devastating, just a lot of little things. The latest
has required me to bring it in for some problems which were previously
diagnosed but needed a special appointment to repair, as well as a new one.
So I bring the car in, drop it off, and get a nice voice mail from the service
manager which has left me utterly PISSED! I was told that I would have to pay
$120 for a "diagnostics" fee in the event that they do not find a problem that
can be fixed by a replaced part. So if it is due to a something coming out
of adjustment, I will have to pay!
I tell the individual that the car is still under warranty, and as such, I
should not have to pay for anything when there is a problem. He continues to
tell me that they need to be paid for thier time in diagnosing the vehicle,
but if they can't find anything wrong, Mitsubishi will not pay them any
money, so they must pass it on to me. I proceed to question him in:
"So now if anything goes wrong with the vehicle, I have to diagnose it myself,
make sure that it isn't something that can fixed by a simple adjustment AND
that it is easily diagnosed, THEN bring it to you, otherwise I will be charged?"
His response:
"No sir, you can give a detailed description of the problem and 99.9% of the
time, we will easily verify the problem and be able to reapair it, at which
time all of your money will be refunded."
To which I responded:
"For the last service that was required, it took four visits for you to
verify that something was indeed wrong. So what you are saying is that I
would have had to have paid you a total of $480 in diagnostic fees for you
to not do anything, because 99.9% of the time this doesn't happen?"
He went on to explain to me that the money would have been refunded upon
finding a problem, however he could not explain to me why I had to be out
the money in the first place. Nor could he dispell the fact that in order
to be sure that I will not be charged anything, I have to do all of the
diagnostics at my home before I ever bring the car in to be sure that I
will not be charged anything for the warranty service.
Whatever you Silicon Valley DSM'ers do, do NOT go to Steven's Creek
Mitsubishi
under ANY circumstances!!!!
~ One disgruntled DSMer
-----------------------------Date: 20 Jan 1997 14:49:04 -0700
Subject: Thanks and New Clutch. 1GT
Message-ID: <#4>
Hey There,
Just like to take this time to thank everyone who responded to my
question, "what are characteristics of a slipping clutch?". This is
truly a great place to be..:) Thankyou.
My clutch has progressively gotten worse, so before I start doing any
kind of mod's, I thought I better install a new clutch first! I paid
$378.00 for a Centerforce clutch which includes the throwout bearing,
not bad ehh?
Found someone who'll install it for $150.00..:( I hate paying that
being I'm on a extremely tight budget for this car.
Until next time.
Best Regards,
Jeff.....Why can't it be a "little" warmer so I can work on the car??
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 14:34:55 -0700
Subject: Tire clearance (2g-T) Problem solved
Message-ID: <#5>
Well, I bought some aftermarket rims a while back and was having a slight
rubbing problem in the rear when I had a heavy load (autox tires/equip,
etc..). The tires were being rubbed by the outer part of the fender. I
got some MB Motoring 16x7.5 which are an exact Borbet Type C knockoff (for
about half the price!). Anyways, standard DSM bolt pattern, but I got 35mm offset, and they just BARELY fit. (Stock is a -46mm offset I believe
on the 6" rim)
I resolved the rubbing problem (and can now even go WIDER) by having the
inner fenderwells shaved off. If you look underneath the 2nd gen rear
fenders, you will see a rain lip that sticks inward towards the tire. I
had a bodyshop shave this and seal it with protectant. It only cost me an
hour labor ($54) and the problem is solved!
BTW, fronts fit perfectly... I got these rims locally for $420 installed
w/lug nuts and they mounted/balanced the tires for free!
Brett
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 10:56:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeffasourus Rex <jsmeier@csupomona.edu>
Subject: Re: Thomas Harrington, brake light
Message-ID: <#6>
>Now my car has 13500 miles, and the brake light came on again. Now, I know
I
>filled it last time, so I took it to the dealer. He said that this was "poor
>design" and "normal" He started out with the usual, you brake might need
>changing, but they don't.
Thomas, you're not alone... the brake light came on in my '95 eclipse ~1000
miles ago and refuses to go off. At first it was intermittent and would go
off after driving for ~15 minutes. I checked the fluid level and the E-brake
handle switch but they're fine. I suspect a bad switch in the reservoir but
I haven't had the chance to look. I haven't taken it to the dealer (...yet?)
because my experience with them (as with ANY dealership service dept.) has
been exactly as you described, useless.
Also, I just took a couple pics of my eclipse and would like to post one on
the web site but I don't have a scanner. Could anyone scan it in for me if I
snail-mail it to you???
Jefffff
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 18:41:52 -0500
Subject: Fuel Pressure and Mileage
Message-ID: <#7>
Hey all. In the continuing saga of my horrid gas mileage, I worked on
the car some while I was home this weekend. I replaced the O2 sensor,
which our patron Todd said might be "slow", but it was to no avail. No
change in mileage. ACH! Oh well, the old one had 60K on it, time to
replace it anyway. Curiously, getting the old one out was very
anticlimactic. Everyone says to try this and that, and that it's
impossible to break loose. I shot some WD40 on it the night before, let
it soak about 12 hours, and it came out w/o a squeak! My spark plugs
are harder to change! Maybe I just got lucky, or maybe I'm getting paid
back for that busted head stud :) Regardless, the install was very
easy. The "sniffer" on the new O2 sensor is different from the old one,
but I assume it's OK. Thanks again to all you guys on IRC who gave me
tips and to DaveB for saving me some $$$ on the new O2 sensor.
OK, since I've checked all the elctronics I can, it's time to do
something I really don't wanna do: check the fuel pressure. I know
it's easy, I'm just spooked about removing the fuel line from the rail.
OK, here's the point: Does anybody have the two special adaptors and a
fuel pressure gauge I can borrow? I'll pay to ship it around, and I
only need it for this weekend. I figure I might as well check the
pressure while the lines are bled (fuel pump install this weekend! :)
Anyway, I don't exacly feel like spending $100 to check something once.
If anybody's got one they don't mind letting me borrow, please RTP.
Otherwise I'm SOL - PLEASE HELP! On a related topic, how much would a
stock FPR for a 1G/T run? Any of you who bought adjustable ones
willing to part with your stock one for some green? I think mine might
be stuck open, giving me high pressure, and thus explaining the bad gas
mileage.
This whole 14mpg thing is makin' me crazy!! C'mon, is 20-24mpg too much
to ask?? I THINK NOT! Anyway, since all the sensors on the car check
out OK, I'm forced to think it's the FPR. If I could only check the
pressure... This weekend'll bring about the new fuel pump, fuel filter,
and possibly a timing adjustment, so it'd be great if I could check the
pressure then while the car's apart. Please help if you can! Thanks
for your time.
Mark Hessler
PS - Anyone got an Idle Position Switch? It's the only one that tests
bad on the car, but it really can't be responsible for the mileage.
It's the little pin-type switch on the TB that is pressed when the
throttle is 100% closed. It's super-minor, doesn't even warrant an ECU
error code, but SATAN wants $70 for one!!!! ACH! M&S doesn't have any,
do any of you? RTP, thanks.
[It is quite possible that the ECU isn't going into the proper modes
because of this. It is unclear from the code just how much this will
affect idle, but, for example, depending on whether the switch fails
open or closed, the ECU won't chop fuel during deceleration. This wil
definitely impact your mileage in town. -talon mgr]
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 18:14:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Name Withheld Upon Request <ucoogj00@mcl.ucsb.edu>
Subject: 1G,T:altenators
Message-ID: <#8>
I live in santa barbara/goleta area and need to have a altenator installed
in my 91 Tsi. I'm not very skilled mechanically or else I would do it
myself. I'm most likely going to get the alt. from PEP BOYS but I'm not so
sure about their handiwork(rumors you know) and of course the dealer is a
little too rich. Any one who has a suggestion, it would be greatly
appreciated.-Jason Coogler
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 22:37:56 -0500
From: "Extreme Motorsports" <Extreme@nicom.com>
Subject: Directions from anywhere to Norwalk.....and where to get them
Message-ID: <#9>
Well I haven't written in a while but I found something everyone may be
able to use to get to the Shoot Out this year...... Easy and (from what I
can tell) pretty good directions, and it beats trying to read a map in the
car.
Gary:
In answer to your question of mileage from Atlanta to Norwalk it is about
670 miles, and should take almost 11 hours.
If you are wondering where I found this, it was by going to www.yahoo.com
and I was able to search out the start and destination points and it gave
up the distance and directions. This search gives also gave a nice little
map with which way to turn on each new road and also how long it takes to
get to the next road. This whole thing is located in the "City Maps"
section and has a section for driving from one point to another. Give it a
try-- it is almost too easy.
Sincerely,
Sean
Extreme Motorsports
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 23:33:46 -0500 (EST)
From: TURBOTLN1@aol.com
Subject: first post,parts for sale
Message-ID: <#10>
Hello ,
My name is John Shepherd ,since this is my first post I'll tell you a little about
my car it's a red 92 tsi awd best time is an 11.89@114.26 I'm running a
16g,7cm.
stock intercooler with 21/4' inlet and outlet and 21/4'' upper and lower i.c.pipes,
Daves fuel pump,21/2 down pipe and test pipe,hk$ exhaust,vpc ,stock
inj.,ported
95 man.stock wastegate.I also installed a set of 95 pistons (I think I was the
first
to try them last winter)I also cleaned up the cyl. head ports .
I plan on going to the 20g,front mount,sx pump etc.etc.
I also have a few parts for sale.All parts are new oem. and around dealer cost
md 149309 valve lash adjusters
$165.00 set of 16
md 133115 timing belts
$ 27.50 have 4
md 164533 90-92 t.belt tensioners $ 52.00 have 4
complete set of valve springs,
retainers,locks list $300.
$180.00 1 set2
2 slave cylinders
I also have a friend that has an archer header for sale for $225
I also run and sell rps turbo clutches for $475 with throwout brg.
If anyone has a gcc they would like to sell please e-mail me.
BTW. PETE no I don't know of any 13 or 12 sec.dealership sponsered talons
just my
11sec.talon.I've worked at pettys jeep/eagle for 7 yrs.I get all parts at bare
cost
and many free parts .I also have complete access to the shop at nights and
weekends.I just want everyone to know not all dealers are satans there are a
few good ones,and some techs take pride in there work. later
John Shepherd
92 tsi awd
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 00:57:35 -0600
Subject: deep thoughts re:turbo mag
Message-ID: <#11>
I'm not a "since '89" dsm'r, but hey - I do have an opinion, and yes,
you're all entitled to it. <g>
>Turbo magazine is committed to telling its readers the whole truth.
>No matter how ugly it is or how much it hurts. Sorry, if this has caused any
>ill feelings. There are plenty of other magazines out there that lie to
>their readers. Since I know I can't please all of the people all of the
>time, I resort to Honesty being the best policy.
If turbo is dedicated to 'the truth, and nothing but the truth' let's see
some digest member's talons and eclipses that run comparable times to your
project car - and compare them in turbo magazine. also include price of
mods, of course.
oh yes, and number of breakdowns. I think it will make very interesting
reading. That would be the best policy, don't you think?
Pete
BTW, I have a feeling I'll be driving a duct-taped honda before Turbo mag
does the above.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 20 Jan 1997 23:50:44 -0800
From: hodaway@ix.netcom.com (BRIAN HO)
Subject: Audio problems
Message-ID: <#13>
Hi! This question is for all the car stereo gurus out there. I have a
GVR-4 and I just replaced all of the speakers. I put some Infinity
Reference speakers in all around and used Crutchfield wiring harnessess
instead of hard wiring them to the speakers. However, now, my rear
passenger side speaker only works 10% of the time. It keeps popping in
and out. All of the connections look tight. So, does anybody have any
suggestions? Thanks.
Brian
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 01:57:54 -0800
From: Tom Stangl <talonts@best*.com>
Subject: "Taking all the wrong steps, but getting nowhere"
Message-ID: <#14>
> To all the people who think I suck (so far only three):
Um, TRUST ME Mike, from what I've seen in the DSM IRC channel, it's a
LOT more than 3 - there is much you could do about that perception,
however. The comment directly below does not help.
>
I believe that the Talon Digest gave you a forum to look ridiculous.
> What's your problem with me? Many racers on the digest know that the weak
> link in the AWD platform is the driveline...Why do you think Dave Buschur is
> building a RWD car? Dave and others that have pushed these cars into the
11s
> are quite familar with the weak links. When your car reaches this
> perfromance level perhaps you'll be able to understand the limitations of
> the AWD driveline.
Yes, and *you are one of those people who KNEW about the weaknesses* you just showed the entire Digest membership that you have *no common
sense whatsover*. You used a full metallic clutch, KNOWING the
driveline was a weakness. You launched from a stop WITH BOOST ON. Um,
yeah, that makes sense. Gee, why the heck are all those parts
breaking? I can't imagine.
As someone said in IRC, and I quote DIRECTLY:
"any idiot would know not to use full metal clutch - we have known our
drivelines are weak and need babying for some time..."
I will leave off the name to protect the innocent, but it wasn't me, it
was a well-respected member of the DSM group.
Point of FACT - with AWD DSMs, the clutch is the "fuse" in the system
(with FWD, it's the tires). Common sense dictates that putting a "bar
of metal" (full metal clutch) in place of that "fuse" will cause the
system to burn up farther down the line (using slicks on a FWD DSM can
destroy the trans in some cases). You KNEW this, but ignored it.
Mike, If you want to research into DSM parts, be my guest - I APPLAUD
research. I thank you for researching clutches for us. But when you go
against OBVIOUS common sense, ADMIT IT!!! Hell, I've pulled a
boneheaded move or two on MY car, and was the first to admit it.
You would do MUCH for DSMs by printing a side column in your next
article detailing what things you HAVE done in research that really
weren't such a good idea, or in other words, quit the sensationalism - a
banner across the opening picture of an article stating all the broken
parts, without a FULL disclosure of why they broke (OK, some broke
because of factory design defects - but when YOU broke something from
ignoring common sense, SAY SO, and so so more openly), really makes our
cars look worse than they deserve. If necessary, I'll do a
point-by-point rebuttal of your article in the Jan 97 issue, but I don't
feel it necessary at this time.
Mike, you HAVE managed to break more than anyone else I know to go low
12s (you should be going 11s, but I know breakage is slowing that effort
down), so maybe you should chill out, and work on your driving
technique, which ALL of us must do at the track at one time or another.
I myself have improved my 60ft times *tremendously* (1.68 on a STOCK
clutch isn't bad at all) just using test'n'tunes for repeatability.
And DON'T interject your OWN experience of breakage into articles on
OTHER DSMs. That was my main beef. The article on Marc Hallman's car
was excellent, EXCEPT for that last sentence. Next time you write a
similar article, curb your desire to add on such a comment at the end.
BTW, are you EVER going to do an article on Dave B's car(s)? I would
HOPE you would consider doing an article on his RWD car, but you really
should be doing one on his AWD car too. How many street cars that have
been in your magazine do low 11s WITHOUT removing half their parts at
the racetrack? You seem to be *purposefully* ignoring the fastest DSM
out there, and many of us are NOT happy about that.
Tom Stangl
1990 Talon AWD
1992 Laser AWD
[I'll toss in my two cents on this. The article for the most part had
useful information in it, especially the middle part. What got me
about this article is the following excerpt from the title page.
Project Talon - Part VI
11 Clutches, Five Transmissions, Four Axles and Three Rearends
Taking All The Right Steps, But Getting Nowhere
Clearly there are a few things the author did that are *NOT* the
right steps, so this BANNER HEADLINE is extremely misleading. It
is hard enough for our cars to get respect, so the casual Honda
owner cruising through the mag gets the idea that our cars are
pieces of junk. I guess I am extra frustrated because we've
*KNOWN* about these problems for some time on this list, but
the author made these mistakes anyway.
I also cringed when I read the last sentence - "we're going to bottle
feed this high-flying bird". I really don't see what this is
going to accomplish except to break even more tranny parts. I'm
hoping that the next article in Turbo will be "Project Talon Part VII - we've finally found an indestructable drivetrain".
Otherwise, I'm afraid the next article will sport a banner with
driveline causualties in the fifties.
-talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 07:27:20 -0500
From: eglsfly@cstone.net (Edward Puskaric)
Subject: RE: fuel cut question
Message-ID: <#16>
>The DSMs fuel-cut at a preset airmass/cyl. The ECU doesn't care if you
>are running lean or not at WOT. It is crossing its fingers that you
>aren't.
Todd,
Wanted to ask....
Therefore, if more air was available, then you would not hit fuel cut?
This seems to be my problem, as the Air/Fuel gauge reads RICH,
while I appear to hit fuel cut just over 16psi with a stock fuel pump.
[No, it fuelcuts when you have airmass/cyl above a certain number.
-talon mgr]
Ed
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 97 08:16:00 EST
Subject: Real mileage
Message-ID: <#17>
Hello everybody!
One of my friend try my new 97 talon tsi awd. Hel like it so much that he
want to buy a 95 talon tsi awd. The odometer shows only 25000km. Is there
a way to know if the odometer has been disconnected or modified? Do the
ECU
keep the real mileage? Is there a seal in speedometer?
[No - it is not too difficult to change the odo in these cars. -talon mgr]
Thank you in advance!
Mike
2G TSIAWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 97 08:33:00 EST
Subject: Amplifier location
Message-ID: <#18>
Hello!
>I am having my stereo system replaced with a Pioneer unit. The installer
>was able to get the rear and door speakers running, but the dash speakers
>apparently are run by a separate amplifer somewhere in the car. This
>amplifier connected to the old unit with a 6-pin RCA DIN connector.
The amplifier in 2g is located under the riht seat. All speakers are
running to this location.
Michel Savaria
1997 tsiawd
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 08:50:08 EST
From: "Stephen Torchia" <stephent@stylus.com>
Subject: [2G, T] Cold start whine
Message-ID: <#19>
I'm pretty sure I'm hearing the same whine everyone else is hearing. I have it
on my Talon and a
friend of mine has it on her Eclipse. When I took the car in for the tank recall
last week, I asked
the guy who worked on my car about the whine. He told me that he's heard it
too (on his girlfriend's
talon.) When I asked him if it might be the belts he told me he thought it was
coming from the
turbo. I have to say I agree with him. I'm not convinced that it sounds like a
belt. Anyway it seems
like a LOT of people are experiencing this problem. Hopefully the mystery will
be solved soon...I'm gonna
keep lookin.
steve
boston
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 09:00:01 EST5EDT
From: "Scott Preston" <PRESTS@ENG.STH.UFL.EDU>
Subject: Eletrical Problems
Message-ID: <#20>
My alternator died on my 1G T and I did not get any warning lights.
I was on the interstate and my radar detector would go bonkers
everytime I hit the gas (it believed it was being hit by laser).
My best guess is that the extra power required to open up the
injectors when I hit the gas caused the power to drop ... based on
the fuse for those I am guessing wide open they draw a bit of current.
Scott
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 08:55:20 -0500
From: Dan Warren <dwarren@FRONTIERNET.NET>
Subject: Snow Tires [2G]
Message-ID: <#21>
>I'm wondering if anyone in the US with 2G AWD DSM has tried to use
>15" snow tires/wheels.
I've said this before but I'll repeat it again. Had a 91 NT Talon and now
a 97 Talon Tsi turbo. On both cars I've run standard 15 inch Chrysler
steel rims in the winter, currently with Nokia's. They work just fine.
I've got plastic wheel covers. Not as good looking as alloy wheels, but
living in Western NY, I want to make sure I can keep the car on the road.
BTW, I've only seen one other 97 Talon on the road here in the Rochester
area and that was from out of state. Any other 97 owners out there.
Also, anyone know if bra's are available for the 97's yet and if so, where
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 09:44:02 -0500
Subject: 1st Oil Change [2G T]
Message-ID: <#22>
[RTP]
Coming up on my 1st oil change for my 97 Tsi. Should I switch to synthetic
oil at this change or wait till my 2nd change. Ran my 91 Talon NT for most
of it's 123,000 mi on Mobil 1.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 10:17:02 -0600
From: Phil.Grady@infores.com (Phil Grady)
Subject: 1G, T Electrical Problems
Message-ID: <#23>
Hi all,
Since I won't have access to the Internet for another week or so I'd
like to get some feedback on a problem I've been experiencing. I
recently started driving my Laser again after 2 months. I installed a
new battery, Magnecor plug wires and new PCV valve. After about 15
minutes of driving, my car started to idle low and/or cut off at stop
lights. The next day while returning from an appointment, the car
started bucking violently and the battery went dead. After a trip to
Sears for a replacement battery my car ran fine until I stopped for
red lights. My guess is the alternator is shot but I'd like to get
some other troubleshooting suggestions before I replace it. RTP
Phil Grady
92' Laser RS AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 10:25:39 CST
Subject: paint fade
Message-ID: <#24>
G'day all,
>I don't go crazy washing & waxing because
>with Alaskan conditions, there's no point most of the time, but all
>this leads me to believe that maybe sunlight causes deterioration and
>general weakness in the finish far more seriously than I thought.
>Direct sunlight--that's the one thing we don't have, and maybe that's
>why the paint lasts so much longer.
That is an interesting point. I would also add that I've seen this wear
that people are referring to on many types of cars around here, the
Chicagoland area. I don't have this type of problem though. I do have
Side window trim that is cracking and exposing the metal under it. That
happened because I used the wrong cleaner and stripped the protective
coating off.
Which brings me to my next point. My car is not show quality or anything
like that, but for a 1990 it looks very good when it is washed. I don't
use many chemicals to clean my car or a lot of waxes. I usually only wax
about twice a year (two coats) and then only use some of the water
applied waxes like the types at Spot-not or some of the auto car washes.
Maybe too much washing and too many varied products are destroying some
of these finishes. Then again if you live east of Chicago then Acid rain
has much to do with finish deterioration. I have acid rain damage which
can only be seen up close but it has been there for about 4.5 years.
I don't have rust and my finish is not faded. I had one trouble spot
when I first bought the car and is popping up again. Down around the
door jamb where the side of the door rounds to the bottom, in the jamb
area (both sides), I had flaking paint which is caused by dirt and salt
being blown into there at high velocity (aero dynamics) basically
sandblasting the area slowly. It started to wear and then peel. I had a
friend sand it down and apply anti-chip coating and new paint about two
years ago. It looked great and cost about $240. It is now being
scratched off again but the coating underneath is holding up and I don't
see bare metal like before, but I do see the coating. I may end up doing
the repaint again next year. We Laser owners and non lower-plastic trim
cars have this problem because of the way the air flows around the
bottom and side of the car (aero dynamic guess).
The point is, maybe too much washing with too many chemicals and too
many various "wax" products are the problem with many faded finishes.
I use Spot not alot which is a toucheless cleaning mehtod and have been
having great results.
Also, our cars do hold up well despite the upper mentioned theory. I
have seen many TELs around the area and few look worn.
Ranting is now finished, we return to regularly scheduled programming.
C-Ya!
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 11:46:50 -0500
From: Ian Jordan <ibj2@po.cwru.edu>
Subject: RE: Aftermarket Stereo Noise [1G]
Message-ID: <#25>
I've got a '93 1.8L Laser with a Kenwood head unit and three amps. Two
amps are in the hatch and one is in the dash. Anyway, I used to get a
bad RPM related "whine" out of my rear amps untill I replaced the head
unit to amp interconnects with Monster Cable interconnects. I had been
using some cheapo radio-shack or something interconnects and the
sheilding just wasn't very good. Try something with a braided sheild
like the Monster Cables (they're only about $1/foot) and you'll be
happier.
Also, keep your interconects away from the ECU (I think that's what it
is...) in the back of the center console. The amplitude of the whine was
definatley related to how close and how much of the interconect went by
the "big bronze box in the back of the radio compartment."
~-Ian
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 10:50:22 -0600 (CST)
From: CLIPSEE <bsw86450@Bayou.UH.EDU>
Subject: Lifter replacement
Message-ID: <#26>
Oh, no! It seems as if I have a worn lifter in my '93 eclipse because
there is an awful tapping noise especially when I start it up in the
morning. How much would it cost to have this problem fixed by the way?
I have 54k miles which I think would be the best time to replace the
timing belt, especially from hearing all of the recent stories about
timing belt slips and stuff.
Also I was in a fender bender or should I say plastic pounder and my
front bumper is dented in. Where would be the best place to get a new
front fascia for a good price?
Any leads would be great..
and keep up the good work Todd..
Bilal
Houston, TX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 11:51:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: reservations
Message-ID: <#27>
Check it out.
The hotel rates I have given and all of you are getting are only good until
the end of this month. Because of cedar Point (the amusement park) after the
end of this month if you make reservations the rates are going up
SUBSTANTIALLY. So make them now or pay the price later. You can reserve a
room now with your credit card and as long as you call and cancel it if you
decide not to come you won't be charged. Get your reservations.
Super 8 419-499-4671
ramada Limited 419-499-4347
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 08:59:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Bleeder install for 95+ [2g, T]
Message-ID: <#28>
A while back I installed a DaveB bleeder into my 95 Eclipse GST, and while
the supplied instructions were helpful, they didn't really apply to the
second generation DSM cars. In an effort to "give back" a little to this
great digest, I've typed out a SECOND GENERATION ONLY set of instructions
for installing a DaveB (Marc Hallman) manual boost controller. Just for
the record, this is a great little unit, and I would recommend it to
absolutely anyone. (Note: if these sound like *real* instructions, its
because i copied portions of the original first generation instructions
where applicable.)
Talon/Eclipse 95+
ABC Installation Instructions
The ABC (Adjustable Boost Control) that you have just purchased is
made of the highest quality brass fittings. The ABC will provide reliable
control of boost with race proven results.
Before you install your ABC you *must* already have aftermarket
boost gauge, as the stock boost gauge does not measure actual boost, and
will not work accurately at high boost levels. In addition, it is
*highly* recommended that you have a low restriction air filter and a
performance exhaust system installed before attempting to raise the stock
boost levels. Raising your boost WILL void your warranty and it can also
destroy your engine if not done correctly!
To install the ABC, first locate the wastegate actuator. The
actuator is a small bronze canister (2-3" diameter) located near the front
of the engine between the turbo and the radiator. There should be a short
vacuum tube (approx 2") leading out of the bottom of the actuator which
leads a "T" connection. If you follow the "T" to the right, you should
end up at the turbo, and if you follow the "T" to the left, you should
find the wastegate solenoid (underneath the MAS). Disconnect the
solenoid-side of the "T" intersection. Remove the small hose from the
bleeder which is labelled "Airbox", as well as the larger hose labelled
"Wastegate Actuator", they won't be needed. Connect the vacuum tube you
removed from the factory "T" to the "T" on the bleeder where the "Airbox"
line used to be. Then, connect the tube from the bleeder labelled
"Compressor Bypass Valve" to the factory "T" fitting where the solenoid
vacuum tube used to be. Make sure that all your vacuum tube connections
are tight, using small metal clamps or the supplied wire ties. Lastly,
secure the bleeder against something in the engine compartment using one
or two of the supplied wire ties.
Now you are ready to test the car. Make sure that there is about
1/4 inch of adjustment between the bottom of the adjustment screw and the
surface where the lock nut seats. Drive the car and check the boost
level. Unscrewing the adjustment screw will allow for more boost, and can
be VERY sensitive, so make small adjustments. Be SURE to tighten the lock
nut after adjustments are made! One of the best ways to test for max
boost is find a road with a 55-65mph speed limit which is on a slight
incline: starting in low rpms in 2nd or 3rd gear, floor the pedal and
watch the boost rise... it rises FAST so be ready to let off QUICK if the
boost heads up to far. With only an exhaust and air filter, no more than
15 psi of boost is recommended. If the car sputters, knocks, or kicks
under acceleration the boost is too high and needs to be turned down.
This is known as fuel cut, and is the engine computer's way of protecting
engine from damage. If you hit fuel cut you will need to disconnect the
negative battery cable for about 30 seconds to reset the computer before
attempting high boost again. (This must be done, because even if you turn
down the boost, you can STILL get fuel cut if the computer has not been
reset) Good luck!
Happy boosting! :)
Jake
95 Eclipse GST (absolutely screaming @18psi w/fuel new pump)
"1GST2NV"
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 13:08:38 -0500 (EST)
From: Majorhouse@aol.com
Subject: Greetings, answers, questions (2G, NT)
Message-ID: <#29>
Hello fellow DSMers,
I hope all of you are doing well. It has been a while since I respond, but I
am finally up to date with the latest digests. Anyway, here goes:
Jason:
I had the same dash problems w/ my '90 Laser. I used some foam glue that I
bought at Home Depot, it worked well, but, I traded the car in shortly
thereafter, so I can't tell you if it worked long term.
Tom Harrington:
I had the same problem w/ my Infinity radio too. This along with EQ lights
that did not work. It took Satan 3 months to get me a reconditioned radio,
but, it was under warranty, so it did not cost me. I also have the same
problem with the Brake light. It seems that it comes on when cold, then goes
away. Brake fluid is OK as well as the pads. I guess Mitsu screwed up a
sensor or something, so far it has not become a major nuisance for me. Poor
starts may be linked to a bad battery, my battery has been replaced twice by
Satan. It is always preceded with a poor start problem when cold.
Kevin Park:
Other than Pacesetter, the only header I have seen for the 2G NT is a
specially made (machine shop) unit from a company called Dynamic Turbo in
Miami, FL. You may want to call them at (305) 593-6160. For the record, I
do not work, know, buy, date, etc. anyone associated with Dynamic, they just
seem like nice guys that know what they are doing.
OK, here are some questions: (please RTP)
1. Anyone have an Iceman intake on their 2G NT? Is it worth the money?
2. Anyone have a Greddy cat-back on their 2G NT? They have a new system
out
that is designed for the NT models. It is a 2" system, but they claim that
it still outflows any other comparable system, while keeping the noise to a
minimum. Any thoughts? I want a better exhaust, just cant deal w/ the
noise. (i have already tried the Ultra-flo, as well as the Super Turbo, both
were too loud and did not improve performance)
OK, thats it, for now.
Thank you all for listening/reading. Special thanks to Todd for continuing
to do a great job w/ this digest.
Later,
Fernando
'95 'clipse GS (42,000 miles and still going strong)
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 12:22:52 -0600
Subject: DSM odor / Normal IL / Batteries
Message-ID: <#30>
lucero@frii.com,
>Lately my Talon emits a horrible odor whenever I push the RPMs past 4500.
Sounds like you may have a busted stud on the exhaust manifold. When you
give it alot of gas the pressure pushes out enough gases to be taken into
the AC/Heater intake. My car gets this smell on occassion cause I have
been too lazy to get my manifold studs fixed.
tony@wilhelm.mdn.com
>tour of the facility in Normal, IL
I will add a section to the Mid-West Club DSM site about this. As soon as
I get some rock hard info on what's going on I will upload it.
stigerj@ns.net
>is there any other battery that wouldbe comparable to the DH gold
I have been satisfied with the Energizer series of car batteries. I am
currently using a 850CA/650CCA with 100CA backup in my car. This sucker
has been running strong since I tossed that crap Chrysler battery when I
bought the car brand new. They are the same price as the DieHard Gold
series, checking out at about $70-80.
J Chris Roth
92 Laser RS AWD
http://www.mw.dsm.org
-----------------------------Date: 21 Jan 1997 11:27:59 -0700
Subject: PROfec installation WEB site.
Message-ID: <#31>
FYI,
For those of you who are having difficulties installing your PROfec, I
found a WEB site that gives you a schematic of the installation. The
picture illustrates the motor with an external wastegate however I'm
sure for those who are running an internal system could improvise:)
There's other neat stuff there as well.
http://www.greddy.com/lrgprofecmap.html
Don't know if most of you know about this site or not, just thought
I'd pass it along.
Regards,
Jeff
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 97 12:50:32 EST
Subject: Roll cage, TLC show
Message-ID: <#32>
I may be taking out the front half of new six-point AutoPower roll cage.
With the roll bar padding in place, I'm experiencing a rather inconvienent
interference problem: In order to clear the driver side roof bar I have to
tilt my head over a good bit just to drive. With a helmet on it becomes even
more ridiculous.
I've tried both an OMP seat and a Momo seat in an attempt to lower my seating
position and neither would position me properly to avoid the interference
problem. If I mount either of them low enough on the floor, the catalytic
converter hump in the floor pan causes the seat to be positioned about 3" off
center from the steering wheel. If I raise the seat mounting points enough
to center it, I hit my head again.
At least now I can reinstall my sun visors and dome light and be able to use
my hood release latch and my glove box :) Besides, with the padding in
place, the front bars create an eight inch wide blind spot on either side
looking out the front windshield.
My main reason for installing the cage was for the harness mounting points
and for a camera mount. Secondary considerations were stiffening the chassis
and for safety on a road course.
For those people in the southeast, Road Atlanta is having a Track Day event
this weekend (January 25). I along with a couple of list members will be
attending. If you want to watch or join the fun, let me know.
Finally, I found out the name of the super cool show that was on The Learning
Channel (TLC) last week. It was called "Race Cars" and is part of the
"Extreme Machines" series. I'm calling them at 800-813-7409 to find out
when/if they'll replay it again. I've been on hold all day today.
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 13:00:22 -0600
Subject: mini-fuel cuts (continued)
Message-ID: <#33>
The temps have increased here in SW-Illinois and my mini-fuel-cuts have
ceased as well as my normal fuel-cut. Funny that in 30 degree and below
I fuel cut at 10psi, 30-40 I fuel-cut at 17psi, and 40 on up I am safe at
18psi - all this with a Buschur pump.
Looking through some technical documents on the MAS I noticed that the
barometric pressure sensor is on top of the MAS. I noticed mine has a
small tear on it. Could this be the culprit of my mini-fuel-cuts? If
not, what effect can this cause?
Thanks to everybody who took the time to give me some info.
J Chris Roth
92 Laser RS AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 13:15:14 CST
Subject: Of axles and articles
Message-ID: <#34>
Hi ya doin'?
>"If Marc finds a way to keep the transmission, transfer case and axles
>from breaking, we're sure he'll reach his goal."
Perhaps the anger generated by this statement is that is is potentially
true and some feel it can hurt the reputation of the fine DSM vehicles.
It just goes to show ya that many of the people on this digest feel
these cars are invincible and can run as fast as they want without any
problems. But, usually the very fast and powerful rwd cars have beefy
suspensions and drive-lines set up for high torque, which can and has
snapped many a beefy driveline, axle, what-have-you....
Look at the positive, this engine IS capable of snapping the axles and
transfer cases! Wow! What power. "The damn thing is so powerful I had to
build up the tranny and axles so they wouldn't snap!" Response: "No
shit!?, how much horse is that thing putting out?"
Now you can brag.
Why all the ruffled collars? Bartender! A round of Jagermeister for
everyone, on Mike F. Thanks buddy! :)
C-Ya!
Tome
------------------------------
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id TAA03922
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 12:00:05 -0800
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) Kevan Riley
Stainles steel break lines + more
2) Victor DelCol-YEGR07 Throttle Body Icing, Poor Idle
3) Michael Kline
Shootout reservations
4) Tom Stangl
Regional DSM sites
5) tim
Clipped Turbo's
6) Venger
Help with a problem...
7) William T. Goldbach 2G Steering Column Modification
8) Andrew Lu
For Sale
9) Brandeis?
Fuel Tank Recall Side effect?
10) The4Bangr
Capital High Speed, porting and sh** talking
11) ERIC PLEBANI
Oil Cap Page is up
12) anthony p. nguyen overheating (all)
13) solared
LONG "boring" STUFF! Tom S. vs. Mike F.
14) lowell
broken drivetrains
15) lowell
best front mount IC?
16) NumbLine
Stereo system noise etc.. Paint fade
17) Bruce Anderson
3000GT info
18) AWD20L
<ALL> Various
19) Damian_Sigman
How lean is too lean?
20) Chris & Meridth
blue smoke when cold on '91 Tsi AWD
21)
22)
23)
24)
25)
26)
27)
28)
29)
30)
31)
32)
33)
34)
35)
36)
Snoopy-Boy!
Re: Movies...
Snoopy-Boy!
Re: Nology wires?
David Cain
Re: Chrysler in Forbes
Jon Dantzig
Turbo Whine {2G,T}
Michael Butkus
Sold the farm
Jason Allerding
General Stuff
james oxley
2.5 test pipe for sale/breaking DT parts/shootout
Shawn Murphy
'97 GS-T (2G, T)
Mark Hoover
2g,t cold kick
Tom Stangl
Re: Roll cage
Tome
dealer repair
gselph
record for 16G, sponsor, drivetrain
Rob
Oh well
Andrew Lu
FOR SALE
FRCFED4
overcrushed BOV?
dsspecial
H&R spring sale/ fuel pumps
Submissions:
Subscriptions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives:
format)
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 15:06:41 -0600
Subject: Stainles steel break lines + more
Message-ID: <#1>
Hi DSMers,
Has any one bought the stainless steel braided brake lines and put them
on? I don't like the sponginess of the brake pedal I was wondering if
the stainless steel braided lines help or not. They aren't real cheap,
so I am only interested if it really improves the feel.
> I was flipping through the new Sport Compact Car magazine...
> pissed that I spent $3.50 on it. Basicly they should have...
> out the lousy article.
I would have to agree. Generally I have really been disapointed at most
of the articles in Sport Compact for the shallowness. Especially when
they review some new item. I end up feeling less informed that I
started. I do still get them from time to time because Turbo doesn't
have as many adds for all the trick assesory items.
Lastly, does anybody have a good idea for a simple circuit for producing
a variable pulse width. I want to control a solenoid that is either on
or off in a variable way, by turning it on and off with a variable pulse
width. A reference to an easy to find book with good examples would be
fine too.
Thanks,
`91 Red Talon Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 18:32:32 -0600
Subject: Throttle Body Icing, Poor Idle
Message-ID: <#2>
Throttle Body Icing, Poor Idle
I found out why the throttle body need to be heated with the engine coolant.
I bypassed the coolant hoses last summer and it worked great to keep the
intake manifold cool. This winter after less then a week of driving in
temperatures just a few degrees below freezing my idle became high and
progressively very erratic. Replacing the hoses fixed the problem instantly.
[The throttle body does not need to be heated with coolant. There is
an extra idle air bypass to shift the ISC range when it is cold
outside. This extra bypass is controlled by coolant temperature.
The "heating" of the throttle body is a side effect. -talon mgr]
Strange, the big space heater under the hood of my old Camaro didn't have
this problem.
Victor Del Col
95 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 18:24:05 -0500
Subject: Shootout reservations
Message-ID: <#3>
Howdy-doo everyone!
Just made my reservations for the Shootout. I called the Super 8. They
said the price is $88.99 per night (plus tax I think). OUCH! Damn Cedar
Point. Speaking of Cedar Point, anyone know if the bars at Put-in-Bay will
be kickin' by mid-May? Dave? It might be worth an extra night just to
spend the day up there. :-)
Thats it for now.
Michael Kline
'90 Talon TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 15:34:56 -0800
Subject: Regional DSM sites
Message-ID: <#4>
Just another reminder to all of you who didn't know.
There ARE regional DSM sites. Hit
http://www.dsm.org/clubdsm/affiliates.htm to check for your local
site. These sites give you a local support group to ask about local
races, car shows, dealers to go to, dealers to avoid, etc.
USE the resources you have out there ;-)
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 97 13:05:34 +12
From: tim@megadyne.co.nz
Subject: Clipped Turbo's
Message-ID: <#5>
Hi All,
Could someone please explain or point me to info regarding the clipping
of turbo's and its advantages/disadvantages.
[A FAQ would be nice (hint hint guys). -talon mgr]
My mechanic is planning to pull out the Turbo on my '88 ZR4 , put a bigger
impeller in and reflow the inlet and clip the exhaust wheel but I can not
figure out what that would achieve.
Regards,
Tim
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 18:46:32 -0600
From: "Venger" <mchester@utdallas.edu>
Subject: Help with a problem...
Message-ID: <#6>
I need some assistance diagnosing a
problem/recommending action.
My car has suddenly developed a resonance with
the engine. It is especially strong at 4k, and
vibrates through the wheel and chassis. It is
audible through the tail slightly as well. I have
had a high engine oil consumption for several
months.
My first thought is a head gasket, or some other
type of compression type leak. This would explain
the strength of the resonance at high revs. Any
thoughts? If it is, how much should I expect to
pay for this?
\/enger
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 20:03:17 -0800
From: "William T. Goldbach" <goldbach@tellink.net>
Subject: 2G Steering Column Modification
Message-ID: <#7>
Here's something I did to my '95 TSI AWD that possibly could be of
interest to other "gravitationally challenged" DSM drivers: I decided
one day that the steering wheel's bottom edge was way too close to the
top edge of my thighs. My thighs are somewhat larger than the average
sized driver this car was obviously designed for! This was especially
noticed when getting in and out of the car. The adjustment provided by
the factory only goes so far "up". Here's what I did to gain between
1/2" and 3/4" more clearance : First, go get yourself (8) big steel
washers, approximately 1/16" thick x 1/2" I.D. x 1" O.D. A bit thicker
is also OK. Under the dash, you will find four bolts that hold the
steering column to the body sheetmetal of the car. Loosen the bolts
until they are almost falling out, but don't take them all out. Now get
a big screwdriver, and pry between the column and the sheetmetal. You'll
notice that the column will move up/down a little. Take out one bolt,
and trap (2) of the washers between the column bracket and the
sheetmetal. Make sure the holes in the washers line-up to the bolt hole.
Put the bolt back in loosely. Repeat 3X, then thoroughly tighten all (4)
bolts. That's it! -Now you are saying to yourself, this guy is nuts! I
just lowered my steering column!!! But, it works just the opposite,
since you have spaced it down, but on the other side of the pivot point,
thus raising the steering wheel. You wouldn't beleive the difference a
1/2" can make. I've driven this car about 6,000 mi. with the
modification, and can see no ill effects.
I've also got a general question : Is Chrysler trying to "kill-off" the
Eagle product line? You almost never see any advertising, and they only
have the Eagle and Vision to sell now. Both of these are very good
looking cars (especially the '97 Talon- COOL!) , but they don't seem to
be trying to sell them.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 17:07:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: For Sale
Message-ID: <#8>
Hi,
I have another friend selling his Profec for $350.
E-mail me for more info.
Andrew
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 20:04:13 -0400 (EDT)
From: Brandeis? <ST950288@PIP.CC.BRANDEIS.EDU>
Subject: Fuel Tank Recall Side effect?
Message-ID: <#9>
Alrite...after having that fuel tank recall done I've been experiencing
some strange readings from my fuel gauge.
I got it back with a full tank (or what seemed like a full tank..14
gallons) and the gauge read as if it was filled to the brim. After approx.
a 35 mile drive the gauge dropped to the 75% mark. Huh? Usually it would
take about 50 - 60 miles to get me to the top mark (supposedly the 100%
mark.) Right now I've gone about 149 miles on the odo and the tank's
gone all the way to the 1/4 mark. On top of that the gauge fluctuates
much more ever since I've done the recall.
Side effect? Anyone else experiencing this?
=Paul
Braintree, MA
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 20:10:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Capital High Speed, porting and sh** talking
Message-ID: <#10>
Good, we are finally going to have a good arguement again.
Today I was talking to a customer that had visited a shop in Texas called
Capital High Speed. While he was there he talked to a guy named Scott Chang
who this customer says was very high on himself. Well so am I so that is
fine. He told this guy that the port work that comes from Buschur Racing
sucks. I figure well let me see for myself what he has to say. I call him
up and ask a few questions not giving my name. Says he wants $200 to port a
1995 manifold to fit a 7cm exhaust housing. This is labor only. (FYI, I
only charge $50 for a new one and $100 for a used one) I say, "Wow that's
kinda high, Extreme and Buschur Racing don't even charge that much." He
tells me how Buschur Racing's port work sucks and he has a customers car
there right now and the customer is pissed off how he got screwed by me and I
screwed him and sold him a 2.5" exhaust for his car when he needed a 3". I
ask him why does he need a 3"? He says well on a turbo car you want the
biggest exhaust you can fit under the car. I ask what kind of turbo does the
guy have? He says a Stage 3 16G. I ask again, why do you need a 3" for a
16G turbo. He says you have to have it to make it work properly! Well at
this point I can't stand it and say, "Look this IS DAVID BUSCHUR YOU ARE
TALKING TO AND LET ME TELL YOU SOMETHING..." Well the little pussy hangs
up
on me. I try to call back 3 times, each time the entire bunch of pussies he
has working there take their turns in hanging up on me. This is after all I
ask is to speak to him in a kind tone.
Bottom line is I heard a rumor and checked on it myself. The truth be told
he said what was told to me. I was going tell him I have been porting turbos
since he was pooping yellow. He didn't even have the balls to carry on a
conversation face-to-face. I actually find this to be typical. I have never
heard anything bad about any of the port work I have sent anyone. As a
matter of fact I think just about every car in the 11's right now has port
work done by me on it.
Now I want to give a little class. It is true you want the biggest exhaust
you can fit under your car, why the heck else would have I have been the
FIRST guy to ever offer a full 3" mandrel bent exhaust for the car?! Do I
try to sell an $850 exhaust to every guy I talk to? NO! WHY?! Because not
everyone can afford one nor do they need it. If your goal is mid 12's you
don't have to have one. As a matter of fact a 2.5" will go high 11's. JOHN
SHEPPARD is a customer and friend of mine and is running 11.8's with a 2.5"
exhaust 16G and no external wastegate right now, what does that tell you? I
think I can honestly say there isn't one guy I have ever talked to that I
tried to sell him something he didn't need. As a matter of fact most guys I
talk to I try to talk them out of atleast one or two things that they don't
need that I could easily sell them. Anyone disagree let me know.
As for port work, I also talked to someone else tonight (another shop, which
I am on good terms with) that stated they thought their port work was better
than mine. The reason is it is more polished. Let me tell you all a little
something about polishing exhaust components. Doesn't mean sh**! 15
minutes
after you run the car the crap is all carboned up and rough anyway. A good
carbide port job with a stone polish is all that is needed. The MAIN thing
is to get all the material you can out of the collector and make the runners
as round as possible going into the runners. Don't think my port work works?
Bill, Dennis and myself have all switched from headers to MY PORTED 95
manifolds this year, we are all faster now than before. 11.12 @ 124 mph on a
ported '95 manifold in my 3,000 pound Talon. How close to that are you Scott
Chang?! That's what I thought. Same goes for the polishing theory.
BTW, $50 for my port work of a new manifold VS. $200 at both of these other
shops. Let me see...............this guy Buschur has the fastest DSM, most of
the 11 second cars run his port work......he charges $50 and the other guys
charge $200.....which one should I get?
Now, I have been known to get irrated in the past (ha ha), and I get irrated
once n awhile when someone calls me and says "well the guys at ----------say
that it is better to do this is or that than what you are telling me to do"
and when this happens if I have had to listen to this same stuff for more
than a few minutes I may be irrated enough to say "well they don't know crap,
and when they beat my times I will listen to what they have to say". This is
just common sense to me, don't call someone and say so and so says this or
that what do you think? And then proceed to argue with the poor sucker you
are asking questions to (the poor sucker being me, Extreme, Alamo or even
Capital Slow Speed.)
Bottom line, I have got to be one of the dumbest business men that ever
lived. the reason why is I am so overly honest I cut my own throat half the
time. There are atleast a half dozen phone calls a day I could sell a part
to someone and end up talking them out of it because at the stage they are at
either isn't going to help or it is just a junk part to begin with. These
are on parts I can get and sell, not parts I don't have and can't get!
One other side note, I am not bringing this up to increase the amount of port
work I do, believe me I ABSOLUTELY HATE HATE HATE standing there eating
mouth
fulls of metal chips and getting them stuck in my hands, arms and eyes. I
don't want anymore port work business than I have right now. I just want to
set the record straight once again what is right and what is wrong when it
comes to the performance of these great cars.
Scott Chang, I hope you are on the digest or have someone to copy this so you
can read it. You are a sorry piece of sh**. I will say it here and will say
it to your face if I ever meet you. I would have told you on the phone if
you would have been man enough to talk. I hope your shop and dishonest
practices close up and you lose your a** financially.
One more thing, if there is infact someone out there that has his car at
Capital right now that I did port work on and you are unhappy please call me.
I will make it right or give your money back! If you bought one of my new
2.5" exhausts and don't want it and want the 3" I will give you full credit
for one of my 3" exhausts. No problem. If the only reason you want to
change is because this Scott character told you that you need to then you had
better think about why people sell parts, incase you don't understand it is
for money. Some need more than others. For me I want, above all, a great
reputation, the money comes second. It is your choice, as for every other
guy on this list where he or she buys their parts. I'd like it to be here,
if it isn't so be it.
Thanks for listening.
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
419-929-2378
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 20:27:23, -0500
Subject: Oil Cap Page is up
Message-ID: <#11>
Hey all,
Thanks everyone for being so patient with me, the club DSM oil
cap page is finally up.
It aint great but it should do the trick.
So check out my work at:
http://pages.prodigy.com/EXZC94C
Eric
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 18:10:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: overheating (all)
Message-ID: <#12>
Hey everybody,
Well after a month of not driving the car, my 90 eclipse is back on the
road. It turned out that I had a blown head gasket which caused my car
to overheat. However, the gasket wasn't too bad...the water and coolant
would leak alittle over time.
I guess after the turbo install, the gasket decided to give out! The
head wasn't warped or cracked or anything.
If I just checked the compression before replacing the thermostat and
relay and stuff, I could have saved some money!
Take it easy,
Anthony
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 21:36:02 -0500
From: solared@ibm.net
Subject: LONG "boring" STUFF! Tom S. vs. Mike F.
Message-ID: <#13>
This is what I have to say in response to Mike Ferrara's 1/20/97 post.
These are my opinions, if you don't agree that's okay with me. If I am
wrong, please feel free to correct me. This post is real long, skip it
if you want!
(1) Mike said "Why do you think Dave Buschur is building a RWD
car?" It maybe be for drivetrain reason like what Mike said. But I
think Dave B is doing it just to cut weight. AWD cars are really heavy
for "serious" drag anyway. I think 1/4 mile time of upper 10/lower 11 is
probably the limit on street legal AWD DSMs. Of course, you can always
remove your ashtray and ducttape your car to go faster than that. :-P
Contact your local HoDT (House of Duct Tape) center for more info.
(2) This thing started because Mike made that comment about breaking
trannies on his Talon. That Turbo mag article made our car look bad,
that's why many people got upset and started saying nasty stuff. On that
article, I don't think Mike mentioned "So is it my driving? Well, to tell
you the truth, that's definitely part of it." By now, many of Turbo
magazine readers (non DSM owners) probably think Talon/Eclipse/Laser AWDs
are "Tranny failure" prone like his.
(3) On Tenacious Talon (Marc Hallman's Talon) article, Mike Ferrara said
something like "only if Marc doesn't break his tranny, axles and transfer
case, he'll reach his goal." This re-ignited the fire. That's why Tom S
and couple other guys wrote to him. I don't blame them tho. That joke
(or comment) was a cheap shot.
(4) Mike said "Turbo magazine is committed to telling its readers the
whole truth. No matter how ugly it is or how much it hurts." He has to
understand media is a very powerful tool. He can write something and
influence thousands of his readers. If Mike writes "widget is
unreliable" then thousands of his readers and their many friends will
soon think "widget as unreliable product" For people who doesn't know
anything better, Mike and his magazine's opinions carry a lot of weight.
So he has to be real careful about what he writes. This is a free
country so he can anything he wants. However, misleading his readers is
no different from telling bullshit to his readers.
I just hope Mike F's tranny problems are isolated case. Hopefully, those
things don't happen to most of us from Club DSM.
Think about these questions tho...
(a) maybe Mike F's driving is too hard on the tranny?
(b) maybe Mike F's car was tranny failure prone to begin with? I know he
bought it used.
(c) maybe using experimental products on his car caused these
breakdowns?
(d) maybe he didn't install these products correctly?
(e) did he follow his routine maintainace schedule?
In other words, it could've been anything that cause his problems! Just
don't start blaming Eagle Talon and it's AWD drivetrain!
(5) Mike said "There are plenty of other magazines out there that lie to
their readers." I don't think people called Mike F a liar. We just don't
want him bad mouthing DSM "in general" just because he had bad
experiences with his Talon.
I like to see Mike Ferrara be "TRUTHFUL" on his Honda articles too. I
will look forward to the next issue of Turbo Magazine. ;-)
Quote of the day: "Some things are better not said"
Sorry for a long post,
Shingo
IRC nickname = EkLiPsEd
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 20:05:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: broken drivetrains
Message-ID: <#14>
>"If Marc finds a way to keep the transmission, transfer case and axles
>from breaking, we're sure he'll reach his goal."
It's too bad there aren't enough DSMs around to make aftermarket driveline
parts cost effective. Maybe one of the manufacturers will take interest and
start building Honda gearboxes and axles which would be a step in the right
direction.
Tremec TKO, fit's 90-94 AWD 400+ ft/lbs! .......... $1500 (wishful thinking)
Borg Warner T56, includes special 90 degree adapter plate and flying monkeys
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 20:10:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: best front mount IC?
Message-ID: <#15>
Extreme/Buscher/HKS/? I don't mind cutting up the car, and would actually
enjoy doing so, but I'd like something that mounts solidly after doing a
really mickey mouse IC install on my old Mustang.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 23:49:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Stereo system noise etc.. Paint fade
Message-ID: <#16>
FINALLY I find a subject where I have some input..:) I have installed
mobile electronics in the Jacksonville, Florida area for about 2 years now at
Cruising Tunes and Sound Sensations.. I dont do it anymore due to returning
to college for that degree..;) Here are my comments about stereo..
1. WHINE OR NOISE IN SYSTEM: The main cause of this is DEFINITELY the fact
that the Preamp cables are usually run right by the ECU which is located
directly behind the stereo.. The best way to eliminate this noise is to run
the cables up the center of the car, through the center console, and under
the carpet for a short distance to the underneath of the rear seat. ALSO make
sure you dont run your preamp cables along the same side as your power wire..
The best idea is to run your remote turn on wire and power wires down one
side, and the preamps down the other.. ONE MORE FIX.. Many have you have
probably seen the preamp cables with a small diameter wire inbetween the
two
signal cables, a lot of people use this for their remote turn on lead, this
is obviousley very bad..:) It is intended to be a ground attachment between
your Head unit and Amp(s) meaning the end at the head unit is attached to
your head unit ground wire, and the other end is grounded either on the amp
itself, or where the amp ground wire is grounded.. You can also just run a
single wire along the same side that your preamps are (or up the middle) for
a similar effect.. I had some noise in my 93 Eclipse Turbo and all of these
steps had to be taken to fully eleminate the problem.. others obviousley may
be different..
2.TO THE GUY WITH THE 96 GETTING A NEW SYSTEM: Sorry I dont remember
your
name but I figure you can figure out who you are..:) I may have
misunderstood but I thought u said that your installer was unable to hook up
your dash speakers because he didnt know the location of the factory amp.. If
this is the case, tell the guy to get off his a$$ and find it!! I havent been
doing this all my life but I have NEVER told a customer that I "couldnt" do
or find anything!! With the technology available today, anything is possible
in auto electronics!! Especially locating a factory amp..:)
Since I dont have as much know how about the performance side of the
vehicles
(learning VERY fast, getting there!!) Maybe I can help anybody with Car
stereo/alarm questons? Let me know if anybody needs any help!! If anybody in
my area needs anything installed (cell phone,stereo,amps,car alarms) let me
know.. Thanks for the bandwidth and the GREAT digest!!
Rusty Chappell
93 FWD Eclipse tuuuuuuuurbo
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 23:20:19 -0600 (CST)
From: Bruce Anderson <rba@eden.com>
Subject: 3000GT info
Message-ID: <#17>
I've got a friend who's run into some bad luck... his 3000GT VR-4 got hit
pretty good on the rear passenger side... insurance has screwed him...
and he doesn't have the cash to fix it... so he's looking into other
options... one is parting it out... so I have a couple questions... first
what parts from his car can I use? I own a 90 GSX so there seems like
there would be a few things and I'd like to help him out if I could while
gettin a few nice things out of one of the more technological cars I've
ever seen... also... anyone out there interested in the motor as a whole
or near whole... it's a 1993... just under 40K miles on it... oil changes
every 2500 miles (this was his baby)... no mods that I can think of but
I'll have to check with him... he's looking into getting an Eclipse if he
can scrape together enough $$ ... also if your interested in any
other parts from it... drop me a line... he doesn't currently have
email... and I'll get it to him... he's trying to decide what to do right
now... so if your interested in anything let me know and if there's
enough of a response we'll start getting as many parts off of it as
possible... if not he's going to have to find some other way to get
enough money for a car out of it (junkyard etc) and we'd both much rather
see this stuff go somewhere it can be used a little more...
[Before he ships it to a junkyard, I want a shot at the ECU.
-talon mgr]
Include some idea of an offering price in your mail if you don't mind...
we're not out to screw anyone... just get my boy some new wheels...
preferably a nice DSM ;)
Thanks alot
Zach Anderson
P.S. I spect <--- goin for hick award in 97) most of this is RTP... but
I'd like to see a posting of some sort about the parts that will transfer
over... for everyones info... I've heard a little about being able to get
the brakes to transfer with some notching... but little about much else
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 00:28:30 -0500 (EST)
From: AWD20L@aol.com
Subject: <ALL> Various
Message-ID: <#18>
Hi guys & gals, first off all I would like to thank all the people who gave
me their opinions on remanufactured tires. I came to a conclusion. It's
better to get new tires if you intend to drive fast.
While roaming through Car & Driver at AOL, I came across this interesting
message:
<<There will be a very large Import Street Car Shoot out at ATCO raceway its
all about street racing se the artical in Turbo Magazine about the DRAG WARS
that was held in Florida iwas was the best race ever and now its coming to
the NY ,NJ area check out the web page for more info...it will be up by Jan
25th.....The Feature Race Will be to see the fastest Diamond Stars are there
the match up will include the totally worked 1991 Mitsu Eclpise from TURBO
MAGAZINE and it will be up against 1991 Eagel Talon from DAVE BUSHER and
it
will be up against 1991 Mitsu Eclipse from PSI
RACING\DRAGWARS(SPONCERED
CAR)...this will be the diamond star show down..come see who takes the TITLE
for the FASTEST DIAMOND STAR...... .for more info check out there web
site..http://www.drag-wars.com>>
WOW, this is going to be the battle of the titans. Who do you think is gonna
win or is that a stupid question?
Lastly, the 97' shootout. I was wondering if anybody is driving through
Arkansas. Maybe we could form a caravan and drive up to Ohio together. BTW,
I'm located in Fayetteville, AR which is NW. Small but crazy college town. If
nybody is interested to drive up to Ohio together, please email me. I will
make a list and update frequently. C'ya.
Lee
96' Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 11:08:24 -0500
Subject: How lean is too lean?
Message-ID: <#19>
Jack Zhe and I were discussing our impressions of "safe" O2 sensor voltage
off-line the other day...
The question I have is based upon a statement found in the Jan '97 of Turbo
Mag (I know, a 5-letter word right now :) )... In the PMS Part II article
they indicated that on pump gas, they were tuning the PMS to provide WOT O2
voltage in the .84 to .88 range, but on 117 Octane, they leaned things up
a bit to .74 to .78 volt readings.
While I have seen "safe" O2 voltages listed in the .85 range on the digest,
I hadn't really seen members promoting leaner values on race fuel. I
understand why the higher octane fuel could make leaner values safer as
long as there was no detonation, I just don't remember this being a widely
accepted/publicized fact. Do you agree that .74-..78v is relatively safe on
race fuel?
Would the lack of knock sensor activity AND EGT values of 1300 degrees or
less, be a more accurate gauge of the safety margin than O2 voltage especially when considering the inaccuracy of our O2 sensors at the limits
of their range? Obviously we don't all have instrumentation to display both
of these values, but isn't the measurement of "lean-ness" the reason we
would want this info?
Please reply to the digest if appropriate - I couldn't find this exact
discussion with WAIS...
Thanks in advance!
Damian
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 22:49:45 -0800
From: Chris & Meridith <mickynut@netcomuk.co.uk>
Subject: blue smoke when cold on '91 Tsi AWD
Message-ID: <#20>
>Here's what happened : I have a '91 Tsi AWD with 72k on it. This
>morning, it was about 30 degrees F. outside and about 2 minutes after
>startup, I'm driving down the road and suddenly I notice a trail of blue
>smoke coming from the rear of my car
Sounds like the seals on the hot side of the turbo are starting to turn
loose. I had a similar situation just before I shipped my '91 Tsi AWD to
England. It would burn for a short time at startup - went away as soon
as you drove (and heated up) the turbo. As time was short, I rebuilt the
stock turbo - to the tune of $667. Hope this helps. And for my DSM
friends in the States - I try very hard not to exceed 90mph on the
normal commute to work - life in England won't be bad for the next 2.5
years ;-)
Cheers!
Eurotalon '91 Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 23:49:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Movies...
Message-ID: <#21>
Bob, the car that you saw in First Strike is a Mitsu FTO.
2Litre MIVEC(VTEC =)V6 engine. 200Bhp
Frankly speaking, I think they could have done better with a 2L V6 MIVEC.
At least Hondas are polishing their VTEC engines to 200BHP with a 1.8.
In-line 4.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 21 Jan 1997 23:59:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Nology wires?
Message-ID: <#22>
Anyone installed these wires yet? Howwell do they worked?
I am planning to buy one sometime soon...hopefully it will cure my high
boost stumbling. Meanwhile, my high pitch noise from the turbo is so high
that it isn't cool anymore, in fact, it sounds ridiculous....!
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 97 08:15 EST
From: David Cain <cain@syrres.com>
Subject: Re: Chrysler in Forbes
Message-ID: <#23>
>Finally read the January 13 edition of Forbes. They had more than a few
>accolades for the Chrysler Corp., but they did mention a few problems:
Yes. Good article, if a bit too "pro-Chrysler".
Also interesting, the article confirms that Chrysler is trying to build
its own engines now, instead of relying on Mitsubishi. This confirms the
breakdown in relationship with Mitsubishi.
Dave
'94 Eclipse
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 07:52:16 -0600
From: Jon Dantzig <jon@solace.me.uiuc.edu>
Subject: Turbo Whine {2G,T}
Message-ID: <#24>
I've had this on two different vehicles: 91 GVR4 and 95 GSX. So far, my
97 GSX doesn't do it. In my case, it was the idler pulley on the A/C belt,
and it went away after I tightened the belt.
Jon Dantzig
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 09:32:05 -0500
From: Michael Butkus <Butkus@LANMAIL.SHU.EDU>
Subject: Sold the farm
Message-ID: <#25>
I'm sorry to say I sold my '91 Eclipse. I finally needed a car that could seat
4, good storage and could go in any weather. My Eclipse went throught
anything but the seating and storage wasn't there. Whom ever bought a
blue '91 Eclipse with 71K, red painted mag wheels and a decals on the
bottom front in the N.J./East coast area contact me, I'll give you the
particulars of what was done to it. Someone got a good car. No one
else would have those painted wheels, one side had red center caps the
other was white. (never matched them before winter) It had pw/m/l CD,
alarm, no sun roof, no rust or dents. I traded it on a '94 JGC Larado. The
dealer gave me $5000 for my car. The jeep was on the lot for 2 months
or so & had a cracked windshield and they dropped the price $1,000.
already in an ad. So they were giving me a lot for my car as the first visit
to see the Jeep they wouldn't lower the price so I Ieft. I came back the
next day with my trade. FYI - I got a new windshield, alarm, battery and
alignment from the Jeep dealer after the factory alarm freaked in cold
weather the first night.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 10:20:35 -0500
From: Jason Allerding <box1@writeme.com>
Subject: General Stuff
Message-ID: <#26>
For everyone on the digest that does not already know this:
I do scanning work on the side for some extra income and have been
scanning photos for anyone on the digest for free as long as they are
related to our cars.
Just send them to me at: Jason Allerding
119 Denwood Trail
Clayton, OH 45315
http://www.cris.com/~Jmainfo/proimage.shtml
Also, I will soon have a website up specifically for the 2nd gen cars.
It will have a lot of wiring digrams and detailed instuctions on things
such as alarm and stereo installation, fog light mod(this is totally
different on the 2nd gens), etc...
I should have some in process pics of my project '97 Eclipse GSX. I have
over $4000 in stereo equip waiting to go in for a competition system as
well as current engine upgrades and soon to be turbo upgrade.
Jason
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 10:52:03 -0800
Subject: 2.5 test pipe for sale/breaking DT parts/shootout hotel noise
Message-ID: <#27>
2.5 test pipe for sale, used 2 weeks, then got 3" DP which uses no cat.
50$ plus ship,
Oh and I loned it to Todd for last years shootout, so it's got a
history to it, kinda like an old Ferrrari race car. :-) only kidding.
As for the bad rap on breaking parts. The only thing it really hurts,
besides some egos (sp?), is the fact that some potential manufacturers of
DSM stuff may shy away from making the product if they think people are
not interested in modding a DSM (have not seen this happen as of yet).
Also, some people, like myself, who have not run 11's yet, may shy away
from building up the car as far as they would like (I'm still building
mine).
In the past year, it has become apparant to me that an 11 second DSM
is going to eat up trannies. Hopefully mine will not eat up as many parts
as Mike F's car. I do not consider even 50 passes and then a blown tranny
acceptable. These things cost some serious bucks.
I do agree with Todd and others that the article was misleading, but I
personally don't give one hoot what the avarage HONDA owner cruising
through TURBO mag thinks. Let em think we suck and when they get blown
away, they'll be even more confused.
On the good side, if the rep gets out that these cars are not good to
reliably mod to the hilt, then think of all the cheap parts that will be
available to the rest of us who are going ot do it anyway.
[Good point... better yet, maybe all those first gen owners will send
their car to the junkyard so I can finally get a four-bolt rear!
-talon mgr]
I roomed with McKenna last year and I can personally attest that the
room was very quiet (due to Mckenna working on his car in the lot all
night, hell all weekend, solid motor mount, no boost, muffler falling
off, ect..) until Sat night (new lampshade anyone). I wonder who's
guarding the sign this year.
OX
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 Jan 97 09:10:02 -0600
Subject: '97 GS-T (2G, T)
Message-ID: <#28>
I currently own a 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS with 13,500 miles. At year end,
I am considering purchasing a 1997 GS-T or maybe a '98 model around January.
I will probably sell it outright because I know a dealership will screw me on
a trade-in, then turn around and sell it for alot more. I have a few
questions to all the turbo owners:
1) What is normal accelaration like? I haven't test driven one because I
don't want to have an anxiety attack waiting another year before I can get
one. Does the car just putter along if you don't have the foot to the floor?
2) I seem to notice several digest members having problems with their cars.
Is this before you started adding modifications, or after? I have not had one
problem with my GS, and I don't want to trade it in on something I'm going to
be taking into the shop more often than not. I baby my car, maybe that's why
it's in such good condition. I rarely haul @ss in it.
3) Several magazine say it's hard to keep the front tires locked up in first
and second once the turbo spools up completely. Do all of you have this
problem? I know it can be fixed with better supsension components, bigger
tires/wheels and the such. I just don't want to hammer it occassionally
leaving half of my tires behind - that gets expensive.
I'd appreciate any help with this, and please respond directly to me, not the
digest.
Thanks,
Shawn Murphy
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 97 16:10:49 UT
From: "Mark Hoover" <MrJayhawk@msn.com>
Subject: 2g,t cold kick
Message-ID: <#29>
Although I do have the cold start whine like most people, I think I may have
an additional problem I haven't heard addressed. When the car has been
sitting outside all day in cold temps <20F when the engine starts about 2
seconds after that I can hear and feel a thump and then everything is fine.
It does not do this after sitting overnight (it is garaged). Anyone have any
ideas before I take it in?
[Possible backfire? -talon mgr]
Thanx
96 AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 08:41:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Roll cage
Message-ID: <#30>
> Basically, the rear 6X9's have to be removed and it's unlikely that anybody
> will be sitting in the rear seats anymore. Other than that, it's not all
> that dramatic.
The speakers aren't a problem, I can mount smaller speakers elsewhere.
I also don't have backseat passengers ;-)
>
>
>
>
>
I'm not sure what the official NHRA policy is on bolt-in versus welded in.
If the proper bolts are used and if it passes inspection, I don't see how
they could deny you using it. The guys at Extreme said they currently use an
Autopower (I think) four point. So far, the track guys have asked them to
install side door beams, but didn't mention the top/roof stuff.
Side beams aren't a prob either, as long as they allow them low enough
to become armrests ;-) I was thinking of getting a spare set of door
panels, and fiberglassing a depression into them to set the side beams
as far out as possible (RIGHT up next to the door sheetmetal, basically)
anyways, and set it up for swing-out beams if at ALL possible.
OK, so anybody happen to know NHRA rules/specs? Once I break 12.00 (a
while away, but I need to be ready), I either gotta dial BACK the power
to avoid being kicked out of every local track, or get a rollbar. SO I
need to know WHAT will pass. Rear hoop, rear supports through the
speaker area, and front side bars can be used, but I need to BOLT it
down if at all possible (I could weld the reinforcement plates to the
car, but need to be able to pull the bar in some cases), and would MUCH
prefer that the side bars be low eough or swing-out, to ease
entry/loading of stuff.
Any other suppliers of such a system besides Autopower? Dave?
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 11:11:27 CST
Subject: dealer repair
Message-ID: <#31>
Bon Giorno Friends,
>"So now if anything goes wrong with the vehicle, I have to diagnose it
>myself, make sure that it isn't something that can fixed by a simple
>adjustment AND that it is easily diagnosed, THEN bring it to you,
>otherwise I will be charged?"
Unfortunately, you are right. That is what we customers are left with
most of the time. Yes, I know there may be certain dealerships that do
good work, but in all honesty it is rare. The norm is that, repair of a
vehicle is a money maker to a dealership so we have to pay.
I have said this many times before, when you buy a car don't just shop
for price. A couple of hundred dollars is insignificant compared to the
hours you will spend being screwed by a bad dealer rapeair (sp) sorry
repair center. When you decide which car to buy (do that first) then
shop for a great service center. Buy the car from the dealer that is
willing to talk about repair and ask questions about repairs and how
they are handled, what is involved in diagnostics, waiting times, who
pays what. If we all do the correct thing we would have the dealer and
salesman sign a document that states the things that were verbally told
to us. Pick the dealers with good repair centers even if the cost of the
vehicle is a couple hundred more. You will be ahead in the end because
you will have less frustration. I changed "authorized" (doesn't mean the
manufacturer will back you, it only means that a certain place can
purchase manufacturer parts)
services centers 4 times till I found one that was willing to work with
me better.
Bruce, you are correct about having to diagnose your own problems. But,
that will not guarantee that they will do the work correctly or agree
with you. I have diagnosed problems with my car that took the dealer 3
trys to finally come to my original conclusion. The lastest fix was
given to me by Robert Arrowwood regarding the misplaced vacum hoses for
the EGR. I've had numerous "techs" look at that problem and they never
solved it until members on this digest did. Thanks.
I would be willing to forego some of the so called "warranty" for a
substantial reduction in cost of the vehicle. The manufacturer and the
dealer should sell the warranty separate of the vehicle. Then we could
buy the warranty with a contract that would spell out what work will be
done and how it is to be done. We can then have our choice of how we
want our repairs handled. Competition among same brand dealers would
make for better repair centers all around.
I don't like the idea of a 3/36 bumber to bumber warranty. What happens
at 50k when a timing belt snaps and you have $2000 worth of damage? You
pay. I would rather give up the squeeky seat fix (which I can do myself)
for the first 3 years so that my engine and driveline can be covered for
5 or 7 seven years and about 70k miles. I want to decide. There are
people who want the 3/36 but all of us should not have to take it when
we are the ones paying for it. We deserve a choice.
The manufacturers are making cars last at least 3/36. Then they try to
sell this to everyone under the guise of "it covers everything". They
make it seem worthwhile. To the unmechanical that may seem like a
godsend. But hold on, what happens at 65k when your auto tranny is
making sucking noises and slamming your head back everytime it shifts?
You then have to pay a private mechanic to fix it. Was getting that
plastic cup holder fixed at 20,000 miles worth it?
We demand better.
Don't let these dealers tell you what screw you around. You paid for the
vehicle which included a large chunk for warranty work. You are the
customer which pays their salary. Someone pays you for your time and
work and if they don't like it they tell you. Same thing applies to
people who you pay.
Many of us on this digest like our cars. But lately I've been reading a
lot about these new models with their problems. My friend bought a new
96. It too has many problems. Too many for a car that has been around
since 1990. There seem to be more problems now than before. I don't know
if I can even recommend this vehicle to friends and people who ask. It
is a shame. She paid $25,000 and has too many problems. Mits, Chrysler
are you guys listenting?
C-Ya! and demand answers.
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 97 11:58:52 EST
Subject: record for 16G, sponsor, drivetrain
Message-ID: <#32>
>In answer to your question of mileage from Atlanta to Norwalk it is about
>670 miles, and should take almost 11 hours.
<Dream mode on> Only if there were no speed limits.. I could make it in 4.5
hours at 150 mph <Dream mode off>
>My name is John Shepherd ,since this is my first post I'll tell you a little
>about my car it's a red 92 tsi awd best time is an 11.89@114.26 I'm running a
>16g,7cm.stock intercooler with 21/4' inlet and outlet and 21/4'' upper and
>lower i.c.pipes...
Does this make the first 16G equipped DSM to enter the 11's?
>BTW. PETE no I don't know of any 13 or 12 sec.dealership sponsered talons
just my 11sec.talon.
I got a free oil pressure wiring harness from a dealer valued at $4.50 and I
run a 12.8 :). He probably felt sorry for me though because he ordered the
wrong parts for me earlier that week.
>
>
>
>
hoping that the next article in Turbo will be "Project Talon Part VII - we've finally found an indestructable drivetrain".
Otherwise, I'm afraid the next article will sport a banner with
driveline causualties in the fifties.
Me too. I'm tempted to stay with my 16G and shoot for 11.99 rather than put
in a 20G, get 11's, and break expensive parts.
Maybe we ought to tear apart a new Porsche Turbo... it has 400hp from the
factory and is bullet proof as far as I've heard. The Nissan Skyline GTR
also has AWD and makes gobs and gobs of power. It can run 10's on street
tires.
In last month's Turbo, there is a Hynudai looking rally car that has what
looks like a Mitsubishi turbo engine. It has 400+ hp and AWD. What ever
drivetrain it has, it hooks up to a Mitsubishi engine. I think TAD worked on
the car. I'll go do some research!
Take care,
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 14:03:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Rob <rob@tsdc.com>
Subject: Oh well
Message-ID: <#33>
As some of you know, I was supposed to finally pick up my first DSM last
night (a 92 GSX). Well, after having a mechanic look it over I had to walk
away. *sniff*
Apparently the car had been hit in the front and rear (and the new paint was
orange peeled like crazy and poorly buffed out) and the rear diff for the
AWD was a SCRAP YARD replacement. Of course, the dealer had this car
priced
like it was cherry ($11,995, sale priced at $10,588) and hadn't mentioned
any of this to me. So I wouldn't recommend buying a car from Baierl Acura
in Wexford PA (outside of Pittsburgh). When I took the car back to leave
the keys, the salesman made a really poor show of sounding surprised about
the paint, but did a much better job when I mentioned the diff. So maybe he
didn't really know about it, but I'm not sure...their mechanics must have
because it still had the scrap yard chalk markings on it. Either way, I
recommend staying away. The mechanic I went to also recommended against
the
used car dealer Don Bindas (also in Wexford), in the way only mechanics can
("I wouldn't recommend going there...most of his cars end up here shortly
after purchase. Take this Audi 90...the lady received it Dec. 27 and I just
did $700 worth of work putting on new lifters." I think he said lifters, I
was kinda stewing about the car I was about to buy so I might've heard
wrong, but the recommendation is the same.)
Now, at least this wasn't a total loss (aside from the fact that I didn't
get screwed with a wrecked car)..the mechanic I went to was very friendly,
quite competent, and seemed to know a bit about DSMs (like the timing belt
recall, etc). So now that I've finished b*tching, let me recommend a DSM
mechanic to you guys in the Pittsburgh area. The garage is Import Motorcars
on Rt 19 in the North Hills, #364-2222. If any of you guys try him, I'd
like to know your experiences since I will probably be using him as my
mechanic in Pittsburgh.
Sorry for the long post, but I'm feeling kind of down about not getting my
DSM...back to the drawing board I guess. One quick question: Is there any
reason I shouldn't look at 90/91s? I've been looking for 92-94s, but
there's a 90 that I've found....
Thanks for any help, and I will have a #@%^&# DSM in time for the shootout. ;)
~ Rob
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 11:02:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: FOR SALE
Message-ID: <#34>
Hi, my friend has the following for sale:
1. spare 95AWD Tranny, 1month old, $1000.
2. 95AWD Rear Axel & Differential, $500
3. 95AWD HKS exhaust, $350
[Now, I'm pretty certain that a 95 rear diff won't work in the first gen...
however, if I am wrong, I've got first dibs on this baby! -talon mgr]
e-mail me for more info.
Andrew
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 14:49:00 -0600
Subject: overcrushed BOV?
Message-ID: <#35>
I believe I've crushed the BOV too much. The nipple hit the ledge and since
I crushed further, the nipple is slightly bent. Now, I think it sounds
right, since it's not whistling. It sounds like a quick release of air, or
like squeezing the grease out of a burger onto the hot coles of a grill, or
like a semi truck releasing his brakes. You know, tttiisssssssssss.
Anyway, the problem is that I've lost almost 3 psi of boost. Is this a
symptom of an overvrushed BOV? Can I uncrush the BOV?
Thanks,
Chris Brinkman "not-so" FRCFED4 in Illinois
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 14:54:50 EST
From: dsspecial@juno.com
Subject: H&R spring sale/ fuel pumps
Message-ID: <#36>
I just got a Special Sale flyer from H&R. They have a few of our cars listed.
I'll pass the savings on to you.
You know, I think that these will be next months special! Not only that,
but I will sell MOST H&R springs for 25% off H&Rs list price.
H&R list
Sale price
95+ AWD Talon/ Eclipse
$299
Save $90.30 --> $208.70
P# 30 263
91+ 3000 base model
P# 30 277
95+ Stratus
$222.20
P# 30 816
93+ Intrepid (LH)
$207.20
P# 30 382
$329
$329
$329
Save $121.80 --> $207.20
Save $106.80 -->
Save $121.80 -->
Other cars on H&R's Special Sale Flyer:
Acura, Audi, BMW, GM, Ford, Mazda, Mercedes, Nissan, Suzuki, and Volvo.
If you know of anybody who has any of these cars and wants new H&R
springs
have them give me a call. I will give them the same 25% off plus
the H&R discount.
FUEL PUMPS
Finally, our fuel pump special is almost over. The last day of the
sale will be Jan 31. Until then I will include free ground shipping, or
for $5 more 2 day air. The sale price is $179. This is the famous
ND pump. The same 70gph pump that ALL of the tuners sell.
Mike @ DSS
(805) 541-4483
http://www.digisys-one.com/dss
------------------------------
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id UAA15319
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 12:00:06 -0800
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)
Hector Deleon
Oil/clutchslip;Fuel p regulator
Arman Nikzad
[2G,T] Q on LSD
SRS3%LPCNO%CTS
LA Times article
vam3
Problem getting into first gear (1G, AWD) & Loss o
Sean
Looking for someone
tblue
Second Gen rims... Interesting,. need input!
Lilsharky1
20G on a 2gen.
lowell
trannies
9) lowell
MAF sensor on 1G PMS unit
10) Marc S
FAQ: 2G Cold Start Whine, Exh. Man. leak
11) Chad Gray
Blah, Timing belt TSB?
12) Shifter
Re:3000 parts
13) Kyle Munz
re:Mike F. & re:drivelines & IRC
14) HelaFoReal
Quick question about Lowering Springs
15) Jason Allerding
[2g,t] Thump on start
16) Btalont
heating the throttle body....
17) Frank Williamson
[1G,T,AWD] Waterleak into the interior
18) Gary Clouse
Tranny conversions???? [1G]
19) Shawn Murphy
Chrysler Engine Clearup
20) Kristian Steenstrup Re: Dave Bucher
22) markp
into the fray(s)
23) Ryan Noss
Misfire?
24) Nat Sombat KC7DNX,HS SS brake line, EGT, FWD launch, 4-Sale
25) Peyton, Russell S Cruisin' the Hotels
26) Kyle.Zingg
Venger's vibrations
Submissions: mailto:talon@dsm.org
Subscriptions: talon-request@dsm.org (send the word "help" in a message
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
FTP Archives: ftp://talon:eclipse@ftp.dsm.org
IRC chat:
irc.dsm.org, channel #dsm, nightly at 6pm Pacific
format)
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 16:01:10 -0500
From: deleonh@page.ent.db.erau.edu (Hector Deleon)
Subject: Oil/clutchslip;Fuel p regulator
Message-ID: <#1>
Hello DSMers:
My car is consuming oil and I think it is finding its way to the clutch. It slips
and then grabs when the oil burns of. How is it getting to the clutch, rear main
seal?
I anm looking for a fuel pressure regulator that could be adjusted depending on
what boost it
senses. I found one for 250 but that seams way to much, any sugestions?
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 97 16:33:08 EST
Subject: [2G,T] Q on LSD
Message-ID: <#2>
A question to All DSMers,
if I wanted to get a LSD on a 95 Talon AWD, what
do I need to get? can I swap the rear trans? is it
possible or is it a loss cause?
Thanks in advance
Arman
PS> Thanks for all Ur input on the 95 Talon AWD.
All came handy.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 97 14:07:56 PST
From: SRS3%LPCNO%CTS@go50.comp.pge.com
Subject: LA Times article
Message-ID: <#3>
>From the 1/22/97 LA Times, Life Style Section, front page....
"A Turbocharged Obsession"
Goes on to talk about the new breed of hot-rodders, and their sleek cars.
"....worked nearly six years selling shoes to buy and fix up his used '93
Acura Integra. 'I didn't go to the prom or parties. I set aside my social
life.' Now, however, he doesn't even drive it. The car into which he has
sunk nearly $35,000 has been garaged while he finds a way to make it
even faster. He ran 14 seconds on a quarter mile drag strip, but he
wants to cut that down and keep it street legal. That means a serious
engine rebuild, turbocharging and a nitrous oxide boost."
Hey now, try it in a Talon/Eclipse/Laser!!! He coulda had two cars, both
in the 11's, for the same price. And even some spare drivetrain parts (if
needed). The article makes no mention of TELs, although the closing
pictures shows part of a yellow 92-94 Eclipse with an Imagine
Motorsports windshield banner, from a Battle of the Imports meet. Yo
Mike at DSS, what lets sell expensive Honda parts, then take the money
and spank them with it using the Talon! And I've got some primo chrome
duct tape available...
Steve, not @ DSS, wondering what his reaction time is like....
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 19:08:45 -0500 (EST)
From: vam3@cornell.edu
Subject: Problem getting into first gear (1G, AWD) & Loss of power
Message-ID: <#4>
[RTP]
Lately, I've been having trouble getting into first gear. ( I did the
shifter mod). I can't get in without grinding it, and the noise it's
pretty loud and not nice. Is it time to change the clutch, or could it be
a syncronizer(?)?
Another thing I realized, is that the car doesn't pull after 3500-4000
rpm, as it used to. What could be the problem?
Please help.
Thanks in advance,
Victor
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 21:39:35 -0500
From: Sean <talon4x4@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Looking for someone
Message-ID: <#5>
Sorry to take up the bandwidth but my HD crashed and I lost someones
address. So, SEAN COSTAL please e-mail with your home address. I picked
up your Talon decal and wanna send it out as soon as possible.
Sean TALON4X4
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 19:49:40 -0800
From: tblue@capella.com
Subject: Second Gen rims... Interesting,. need input!
Message-ID: <#6>
HI Ho neighbors,
Okay here is the situation...
Us 95-96 turbo DSM owners had our cars come equiped with 16" wheels right?
Of course we did, don't think about it!!!
97 turbo DSM's came with 17" wheels...
Now how can the 97's get away with 17" wheels when us pre 97'ers have to
get
a camber plate in order to have perfect alignment in the rear when we go
17's... IS there maybe an actual difference between the 95 and the 97 that
we had not thought/known about?
Interesting,
Anybody have any facts on this?/
Tory
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 22:49:07 -0500 (EST)
From: Lilsharky1@aol.com
Subject: 20G on a 2gen.
Message-ID: <#7>
Aloha from the land of caralarms and rubber slippers!
It's a cool 75 degrees here in Hawaii. Sorry I had to rub it in. But
any way I was wondering, have any of you guys have tried a 20G on a Second
Generation car yet? If so how bad is the lag, is it still fun to drive, and
does it affect the drivablity of the car?
I am also going to change my clutch this weekend does anybody have
any hints or tricks that I should know about that could help me? If so please
email me. Thanks!
Luke Reeder
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 20:02:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: trannies
Message-ID: <#8>
>Maybe we ought to tear apart a new Porsche Turbo... it has 400hp from the
>factory and is bullet proof as far as I've heard. The Nissan Skyline GTR
>also has AWD and makes gobs and gobs of power. It can run 10's on street
>tires.
I seem to remember a new AWD Porsche breaking at the One Lap...
As for the Skyline GTR (and Escort Cosworth) those use a longitudional
engine with a more conventional transmission instead of a transaxle. I
think the Escort uses a T56 with a transfer case, which is a very strong
'box. Maybe someone should turn the motor 90deg and mount up some Escort
hardware...
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 22:20:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: MAF sensor on 1G PMS unit
Message-ID: <#9>
Is the MAF meter that comes with the PMS package a 77mm Pro-M from
Proflow
Technologies? Just wondering, since the 77mm Pro-M is $400, and easily one
of the most expensive meters around. I guess that could account for the
$450 difference between the 1G and 2G PMS units. Which brings up the
interesting idea of using a cheaper meter on the PMS box, since all the hot
wire meters interchange with no computer changes on the Mustangs... I'd be
annoyed if I had to buy a $400 MAF meter with the PMS.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 22 Jan 1997 22:36:24 -0800 (PST)
Subject: FAQ: 2G Cold Start Whine, Exh. Man. leak
Message-ID: <#10>
I just got back from the dealer. They diagnosed my 2G cold start whine
as being caused by the *turbo*! This is the loud whine that many people
have mentioned on the list previously: it occurs on cold mornings, changes
pitch as you step on the gas, and suddenly disappears as the revs climb
past some limit (for some, 2500rpm, for me, around 2000rpm).
Correct me if I'm wrong but there's no way the turbo is causing this
sound! Members who have posted about getting the whine fixed posted
part numbers relating to belts, tensioners, etc.. No turbos :)
FRom what I've seen from the dealers, we practically have to create our
own documented "TSB's" to get some of these problems taken care of. By the
way, I tried to get that windshield-washer-leak TSB that was mentioned a
few days ago performed at my Mitsu dealer but apparently it's a
Chrysler/Eagle TSB and thus Mitsu is "unaware of it" and won't do it
unless you demonstrate the problem.
To all those who have had that cold-start whine fixed on their 2nd Gen:
*PLEASE* email me and tell me any info you can about your experience.
In particular, what was the initial diagnosis, how did the dealer
figure out to replace the parts that they did, and did they find
a "defective part" or reason why the whine was taking place?
It would be very helpful if you can tell me the name/phone # of the
dealer who did your work.
I'll create a FAQ so that others who hit this problem can find out what
it is, and be armed with information when they go to the dealer including
a list of other dealers who have fixed the mod the way WE say it's
supposed to be fixed :). I showed my dealer the parts list that list
members have posted, but the dealer said they couldn't just "take my
word for it" especially since they figured it's the turbo. They're not
too keen to begin with on any noise that occurs at startup which goes
away after a few mins. (If it goes away, 'live with it'). For those who
have experienced this noise, you probably know that a few seconds of it
is a few seconds too many. I've gotten enough stares and comments from
the noise, thank you very much :). My car should sound like a car, not a
hoover vacuum cleaner.
On another 2GT note, has anyone had their exhaust manifold start leaking?
(RTP) We figured the 1G leak problem was fixed for sure on the
95's, but a few people (myself included) are having problems with leaks
on the 2G's. It is all the more annoying that Mitsu policy is to replace
the manifold with a new one instead of resurfacing the old (since the new
one could potentially warp all over again). Mitsu policy is also that
customers cannot supply their own parts on warranty work, due to liability
issues. If it's fixed under warranty it has to be done with new factory
parts. Even my dealer said the factory is being idiotic with this policy;
I'm not the first customer who offered to supply free parts in exchange
for the dealer doing the labor.
Thanks,
Marc S
P.S. I'm currently surpressing the urge to let HoDT respond to Mike
Ferrara :). They really want to adopt him as their newest Mascot :)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 02:09:03 -0500
Subject: Blah, Timing belt TSB?
Message-ID: <#11>
>Many of us on this digest like our cars. But lately I've been reading a
>lot about these new models with their problems. My friend bought a new
>96. It too has many problems. Too many for a car that has been around
>since 1990. There seem to be more problems now than before.
I think the people on the digest have to realize that the posts that you are
reading are going to be more negative, than positive. I turn to the Digest
to answer the questions that i have, or diagnose the problem that i have.
People dont write to the digest to say "i drove to work today, and i did not
break my timing belt!".
I do have a question on the timing belt TSB:
SO what is the special tool to compress the tensioner (MD998738)? It sounds
like a giant treaded bolt that applies pressure to the tensioner... Does
any one know the type of bolt thread, so i can hack a Chad's Special Tool?
Also why is step 21, step 21? Shouldn't it be more like step 9?
I will be asking more Timing Belt questions, becuase i bought the belts! So
now i HAVE to install them my self!
BTW i Drove to work today and i Did NOT break my timing belt!
Chad Gray
(Promise me that you will change your oil every 3,000!)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 00:39:30 -0700
From: Shifter@Hearthstone.wds
Subject: Re:3000 parts
Message-ID: <#12>
Hi Guys and Gals,
I remember reading somewhere that wheels off the 3000's will fit on 1st
gen cars. Is this true, and are there any fit problems at all? What
about off-set?
Is anyone on the list going to attend the Import Street Car Shootout,
and would you consider videotaping it? Sounds like this should be one
hell of an event. I'd love to see Dave's car kick some ass! I'd buy a
tape. Anyone else?
Kenny
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 01:45:52 -0800
Subject: re:Mike F. & re:drivelines & IRC
Message-ID: <#13>
Well, first I'm going to start off saying that NO, I do not have a car
that compares to either Mike or Tom, but it is still a DSM. Yes, I
understand that EVERYCAR has its one weakness, and I've heard enough
horror stories on the Digest to know to treat mine carefully. It doesn't
mean that I can't still race the occiasional V8 and shock the pants off
of it. Anyhow, Shingo Mentioned:
>(4) Mike said "Turbo magazine is committed to telling its readers the
>whole truth. No matter how ugly it is or how much it hurts." He has to
>understand media is a very powerful tool. He can write something and
>influence thousands of his readers.
If only more ppl in media realized this! I agree, he through the
magazine should tell the whole truth. However, I don't feel that he told
the whole truth, I personally feel that his article was one sided,
regaurdless of how much enthusiasm he has for these cars. That bright
yellow banner was the first thing that everyone who read my magazine
noticed. Their first comment was "you're going to be paying for these
parts soon, so you better save up or sell the car." Well, with each
person I had to explain to them to read the rest of the article, and
even then only the few who understood the slightest about cars and
mechanics caught on that his solid clutches and launch techniques were
quite 'unique' and were mostly to blame. If you knew that the AWD
drivelines were the 'weak links' in these cars, then why go out and
intentionally attack that link???
In short, I feel that yellow banner was uncalled for, he could have
posted his times there as he does with other cars, or his horsepower or
just left it blank. but with america's attention span as it is today,
they don't look past all those parts, and get a negative opinion of the
car, and never read the rest of the article, which barely points out the
reasons for all those parts breaking.
Another note:
>start building Honda gearboxes and axles which would be a step in the right
>direction.
We don't need honda gearboxes, the driveline Mitz stuck in the
ConQuest/Starion never had these problems. Of all the ppl I've talked to
that have owned any, including the 3 we've owned, there were no troubles
other than the weak mitz clutch. It took driving it for a few months
unknowingly with no lube in it to finally damage one at all. If mitz
would just acknowledge the design flaws and offer us all recalls to get
satan to pop a shiny new one in, they'd gain somemore respect. Mebbe
even Mike would do a write up about their GREAT customer service! :) Ok,
I know, wishfull thinking.
On to other news... WHERE's #DSM? I can't get on cyberhiway for
anything, and noone is on cobranet, is the server down? If so, where
is everyone hanging out to pass the time?
thanks to all who read this far :)
~Kyl3 Munz
IRC=LoQuito
'91BlackTSiAWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 03:45:47 -0500 (EST)
From: HelaFoReal@aol.com
Subject: Quick question about Lowering Springs
Message-ID: <#14>
Whats up? I've had my laser for about a year and I'm just finally starting to
beef it up a little. I allready put NGK plugs and wires in it and didn't see
to much of a difference. But I just ordered a set of springs and i'm
wondering if its ok to put them on with the stock shocks and stuff. Is there
anything else I need to replace when I put on the springs? Its gunna lower
the car 2". I had to get a big drop cuz i put 40 series tires on and I have a
huge ass wheel well. if anyone can let me know, I'de appreciate it.
-----------------------------Date:
Thu, 23 Jan 1997 08:32:35 -0500
From: Jason Allerding <box1@writeme.com>
Subject: [2g,t] Thump on start
Message-ID: <#15>
>Although I do have the cold start whine like most people, I think I may have
>an additional problem I haven't heard addressed. When the car has been
>sitting outside all day in cold temps <20F when the engine starts about 2
>seconds after that I can hear and feel a thump and then everything is fine.
Mine does the same thing. I have narrowed it down to the steering pump.
Infact if it is really cold out the thump continues for a few seconds
and if you turn the steering wheel the sound changes accordingly. I have
not been real concerned with it yet, at least not enought to take it to
the dealer just for that problem.
Please let me know what they do to fix the problem if you take it in!
~Jason
'97 Eclipse GSX
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 09:35:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: heating the throttle body....
Message-ID: <#16>
Victor noted reconnecting the hoses to his throttle body to heat in in the
winter. Todd noted that it wasn't necessary. I have to disagree with Todd's
note. The extra air bypass passage is controlled with a wax pellet that melts
when the TB heats up. If you remove the coolant lines, it takes engine heat
and a great deal of time to heat the TB and melt the wax from conduction of
engine heat to the TB. The result of this is you wind up with high idle for
an extended period of time in cold weather and in the case of Victor's,
potential for icing too. This is more of a problem for people in colder
climate. It is probably less of a concern in southern California.
[I think you misunderstood me - that wax pellet thing was the thing
I was talking about. The poster thought those lines were to heat
the throttle body - I was saying no, that is not what it is for, it
is for the extra idle air bypass. -talon mgr]
Brian
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 08:37:32 -0600
Subject: [1G,T,AWD] Waterleak into the interior
Message-ID: <#17>
Hey gang,
unfortunately my baby, 91 Talon TSi AWD, has decided it wanted to get
bathed on the inside as well as the outside...... The back floorboard
carpets get wet after each good rain that comes by. Water doesn't fill
the floorboard, but the carpet does get good and soaked.
I don't have a sunroof. The windows are all sealed well. There are no
water marks on the inside of the rear quarter windows, so they are
tight. The door seals look tight, while the hatch seal looks good
also. The 2 drain tubes from the drain holes in the hatch to the
bottom of the fender are in place and look to be in good shape. I've
even caulked up above the rear taillights in the hatch area to no
avail. What I'm wondering if it is possible for water to get in along
the side mounted trim molding, the one that has the 6 or 7 small
louvers in it behind the doors? Anyone else have any other suggestions
or experiences? Hope to get this fixed this weekend.
Thanks in advance,
Frank W.
91 Talon TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 08:38:53 -0600
Subject: Tranny conversions???? [1G]
Message-ID: <#18>
Has anyone in the DSM group ever attempted replacing an auto tranny
with a manual? It looks like the master clutch cylinder and pedal would just
bolt in. I haven't mamaged to get anywhere with the auto tranny, SATAN
want over $2000 just to look at it and the indepent shops (Dens of
theives) want $3000 and up. So I may consider a conversion.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 97 09:03:46 -0600
Subject: Chrysler Engine Clearup
Message-ID: <#19>
This is to clear up the misconception that the second generation Mitsubishi
Eclipse RS/GS and the Eagle Talon Esi has the Dodge/Plymouth Neon 2.0 dohc
engine.
Excerpt taken from: http://www.cybernw.com/~kmartin/eclipse.htm
May 24, 1994
Mitsubishi Eclipse
By Keith Martin
"The Eclipse engine lineup is all new this year. The normally-aspirated
choice is a Chrysler built two-liter, 16-valve twincam that will soon be
appearing in the Neon. It produces 140 bhp at 6,000 rpm and 130 lbs. ft.
of torque at 4800. Turbo-buyers get the Mitsubishi-designed 2.0 liter DOHC
16-valve powerplant producing 210 bhp at 6,000 rpm and 214 lbs. ft. of torque
at
3,000 with manual transmission, and 205 bhp and 220 lbs. ft. of torque
with the automatic.
The $16,500 Eclipse GS model is expected to be the best-seller, offering
a few more amenities like 4-wheel disc brakes, a 7-way adjustable
driver's seat, optional fog-lamps and a 6-speaker AM/FM cassette system.
During a four-hour drive on back roads north of Seattle, both the GS and
GS-X models showed their pluses. The twin-cam engine of the GS revved
easily to its 7,000 rpm redline, and downshifting to third gear provided
plenty of power for passing on two lane roads. Handling was crisp and
predictable, with the four-wheel discs providing plenty of stopping
power. The turbo, all-wheel drive GS-X makes anyone behind the wheel seem
like
Mario Andretti on a road course. The engine makes easy horsepower at
nearly any rpm, and the practically imperceptible turbo-boost gives the
illusion of a much larger engine under the hood. The all-wheel drive is
transparent during normal driving, and provides an extra performance and
safety edge in wet weather conditions."
So now we can put this whole "Your 2G, NT Eclipse/Talon is nothing more than
a
NEON with a DSM body" perception to rest.
I have spoken.
Shawn Murphy
1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
Dallas, Tx
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 08:14:20 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: Dave Bucher
Message-ID: <#20>
>I think I can honestly say there isn't one guy I have ever talked to that I
>tried to sell him something he didn't need. As a matter of fact most guys I
>talk to I try to talk them out of at least one or two things that they don't
>need that I could easily sell them.
I have recently gone through a big learning experience changing the turbo on
my [1gt]. I need to finish it off a little (I didn't tighten the oil lines
enough :-( ) and will write a beginners perspective on this in the next week.
However I can at this stage certainly recommend Dave's honesty and
willingness to help. After calling around the country I found that Dave had
the best $ deal. After going through some of the steps I also found that he
had no interest in selling more than I needed, and offered advice on how to
do the job and what to look out for.
I can not say that anyone else is bad... indeed DSS was also very helpful,
but I do know that Dave seems OK in my dealings.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 97 09:09:42 -0Date:
Subject: into the fray(s)
Message-ID: <#22>
Thu, 23 Jan 97 09:05:18 MDT
David B: it shouldn't come as a surprise to you that your competitors
talk trash -- just ask them about _their_ fast times. you're the
target they're shooting at.
when it comes to selling upgrades, you've got the most experience and
know what works. what you _are_ up against, though, is the perceptions
of your (sometimes foolish) customers. If someone thinks they
_must_ have a 3" exhaust, and you talk them out of it, you're
the villain, especially if there's another vendor to reinforce
their beliefs.
We saw an example of this when Mike Ferrara wanted to buy a 20g
hybrid from Pro-turbo ( I forget his name ) -- the vendor didn't
want to sell him one until he worked on getting his times down
by working on his _driving_, lest the larger turbo be blamed in print
for not being fast enough. It's always the car's fault, isn't
it, Mike? A cynic would see a pattern in this behavior.
David, as for what you charge for port work, I've always thought you
don't charge enough. As I see it, I'm not just paying for the porting,
I'm also paying for the experience to know _what_ to do, for not
having the equipment to do it, for not having myself sandblasted w/
metal chips . . . I'd really hate to see you go out of business.
charge well and fair and you'll do fine. there will always be some
yahoo out there who's convinced that they could do the job twice as
good for half the time and money. let them.
Regarding blaming the car for the troubles of the driver, I've autocrossed
quite a bit. If you're fast, you're not a good driver, you have a fast
car. If it's too fast the car must be illegal. the focus is always on
the car, never the driver. We place very little emphasis on that loose
nut behind the steering wheel. That's you, Mike -- if you had any sense
you'd take a long look at your driving.
Mark Pilon
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 11:57:46 -0500
From: Ryan Noss <rcn110@psu.edu>
Subject: Misfire?
Message-ID: <#23>
I have a strange problem with my '90 Laser RS turbo that I have been
trying to figure out for three years. Please, someone HELP! I've done the
usual mods to the car(K&N, EGR blockoff, etc.) and have replaced the O2
sensor and sparkplug wires with Magnecore wires. The problem is that at
around 15 lb. of boost it seems like I have a misfire or something...I
really don't think it's a fuel cut, but I could be wrong. I have tried many
brands of spark plus, including the NGK BPR7ES, gapped at .032 but the
problem still persists. Now the weird part, every time I put new plugs in,
the car will run fine, actually it runs great, for a couple of hundred mile
but then the problem is back. So, my question is WHY? By the way I had
this problem even before all of the mods...so it's not a mod that is causing
the problem. I have even taken it to 2 dealers, both of which didn't fix
it. Thanks in advance
Ryan Noss
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 09:45:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: SS brake line, EGT, FWD launch, 4-Sale
Message-ID: <#24>
Kavan:
I change to SS brake line (from Alamo) it help a little bit. The
paddel feel firmer and not like spoon anymore. I also change brake, clutch
fluid to Castrol MLA.
Damian:
HK$ told me (5 years ago) that if You run EGT under 1350F after
turbo you are fine.
Shawn:
Me and Steve (GSXracer) just install header and port the turbine,
O2 housing in my car. It's BAD, I got beat by stock 3000GT and upset
Steve (sorry steve). :( I can't not get traction (bad tire too). I need
to learn how to drive it again. I can't floor it on 1 or 2 or 3, as soon
as the boost come the front tire will jump. I have to baby it.
I took off like 2500 or 3000 rpm not more than that. After the car
take off Easy on the gas and WAIT til the boost hit then easy step on
it(not floor it). If I not wait for the boost to hit and step on the gas
early front tires will spin. Same thing for the 2nd gear. If I do this I
can floor on the 3rd gear. I shift around 6500.
Hay, I just learning and only drag once, so don't frame me.
Please comment :)
For Sale stuff:
95 NT intake home made (AEM style) w/ K&N, Magnecor spark plug wire.
all for $100 include shipping. my friend cars. he does not have e-mail.
4 wheels DP motorsports Enduro 3 pieces 5 spokes silver w/ clear coat
polished edge. 16*7 w/ BFG ZR 225/50/16 $1200 + about 100 shipping. new
$500+ each picture? @ http://members.aol.com/zpeedfreak/DP_page.html
90 Talon FWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 12:53:39 -0500
From: "Peyton, Russell S" <Russell_Peyton@dscc.dla.mil>
Subject: Cruisin' the Hotels
Message-ID: <#25>
Hi all,
When everyone finally gets all the reservations straightened out.
Could someone print out a list where everyone is staying. I will be
making the trip up from Columbus, Ohio, and will probably drive up,
(Only a 2 hr drive) to meet some of you guys, and shoot the sh**. And
also to listen to the loudest DSM's rocking Norwalk ;-) Is there a Place
where everyone meets on say Fri night to Bullsh**? BTW, anyone going
from the Columbus area? I really need to find out where the hell all
these Hotels are, and what are the main streets everyone cruises. Should
be a blast! Hey Todd, you making the trip this year? See ya all there.
Russ "primer hood" Peyton
rsturbo@rocketship.com
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 14:00:49 -0500
Subject: Venger's vibrations
Message-ID: <#26>
Venger,
>My car has suddenly developed a resonance with
>the engine. It is especially strong at 4k, and
>vibrates through the wheel and chassis. It is
>audible through the tail slightly as well. I have
>had a high engine oil consumption for several
>months.
Diagnosis is the key here. How many miles on the car? How long since the
timing+balance shaft belts have been changed? Recently, my balance shaft
belt
shredded, causing the timing belt to skip 2 teeth, and since there was now only
one functioning balancer, my car shook with the rise in RPM, but still ran ok.
Could also be the head gasket, especially if you are burning a lot of oil, but
that oil could be escaping past the turbo oil seals, too. How much is "high
oil consumption"?. On what little info you give here, I guess the balancer
belt went. Give us some more to chew on... I'm sure someone on the Digest
probably has it figured out.
Kyle
------------------------------
From bouncer Sat Jan 25 01:18:10 1997
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id BAA26194
for talon-digest-approved on Sat, 25 Jan 1997 01:18:10 -0800
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 12:00:07 -0800
Precedence: list
[Just a reminder that any adminstration requests sent to
talon@dsm.org will simply be deleted and ignored.
-talon mgr]
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) Jesse Hustad
Thermostat, Rear Diff
2) Steven M. Swink
Turbo Timer Installation w/97 Factory Alarm and Re
3) Smokin
Desperate
4) Jason/Eric Straatman RE: 2G steering column Mod
5) REITMAN, LEON
Re: Dyno
6) lionel@hcl.com
Dave B kicks Butt!
7) RobGSX
Eight second Talon
8) Farzaan Kassam
Pictures for web site.
9) Tome
The anger swells
10) jim_jordan
Re: porting and sh*t talking
11) Frank de Kat
Brakes, Hyundai Rally "Talon"
12) Blaine J. Weddle
Time for Balancer Belt Replacement (maybe)???
13) gary glick
(1g,t) Will a 95 awd tranny fit a 1g,t awd?
14) Farzaan Kassam
Various.
15) Allon Rauer
RFR: Exhaust recommendations
16) Benny Chin
Re: Nology wires
17) Cadet Christopher S. FYI: 3000GT parts
18) Richard Ko
Turbo 97 and stuff
19) Richard Ko
Turbo 97 and stuff (fwd)
20) Allon Rauer
Imagine Motors
22) Speed
Clutch-Starter?
23) TROY JOLLIMORE
The Saga Continues...
24) MR MORRIS S JOHNSON Oil choices/plug gasket [1G-T]
25) Jose H. Viscarra
fuel tank recall
26) Chad Gray
Alldata CD-ROM??
27) Chad Gray
Timing Belt tools & other ? [1G T]
28) Chris LaFournaise (c [2G,T] Another silly noise
29) Bruce Anderson
Some good news... and some bad news
30) Snoopy-Boy!
Re: 200Bhp Integra misunderstanding.
31) Curtis Allen Lum
LA Times article
32) Todd Day
Why aren't we listed, Dave?
33) Todd Day
checkit
34) Frank Mowry
Shootout info
35) Jack Zhe
Buschur Ported 90-94 Manifold 4 Sale
36) SAVARIA, MICHEL
cold start noise
37) Jared Rimmer
97 Shootout
38) Dan Warren
Re: Second Gen rims... Interesting,. need input!
39) Btalont
PMS and flow meters...
40) Kyle.Zingg
Re:3000 parts
41) Stephen Torchia
[2G,T] RE: Cold start whine
43) Robert Arrowood
Rear Differential & various
44) Mark Hessler
FORCEFED
45) Warren Tsai
RE: Second Gen rims... Interesting,. need input!
46) Sol Sean Wang
Parts for sale, 2G NT
48) Tory M. Blue
95-97 camber /alignment etc.....
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
format)
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 13:17:10 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Thermostat, Rear Diff
Message-ID: <#1>
I believe that the thermostat in my Eclipse is going bad. My question is
what kind should I replace it with? Some people have said to replace it
with a 180 degree style instead of the stock 200 degree. Will a 180
degree style not allow the car to go into closed loop mode? My car is
mildly modified right now.
Update on my rear diff, the differential is out of the car and I
pulled the cover off of it last night. There were two pieces of something
in the bottom of the case but they don't look like they belong to
anything too expenisive. I am going to take it to the dealer and ask them
who they would recommend I have take a look at it. The dealer here is
actually pretty good, it is York Motors in Prescott, Az..
Jess
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 12:56:49 -0800
From: "Steven M. Swink" <smsc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Turbo Timer Installation w/97 Factory Alarm and Remote Keyless
Entry
Message-ID: <#2>
I have successfully installed a Greddy Turbo Timer in my '97 Eclipse GST.
Timer works. Remote and alarm work fine while timer running motor. Only
problem so far is that key reminder and interior light faders do not work
while TT running (when hooking TT green to IG2). Rear antenna stays up
until motor shuts off.
The key is to not mess with IG1. It connects to the computer which
disables remote and alarm if IG1 is powered. Connect TT blue instead to
connector B63 wire #11 (black w/white stripe at left-most end of
connector).
TT
Ig. Switch
Chassis Connector
~----- ----------------------------------------Red-----12V
Green--IG2 (try ACC, etc.)
Blue-------------------------------------> B63 wire #11 (in console
behind/under radio)
If anyone has any questions, suggestions or improvements, please let me
know.
Thanks,
Steven Swink ('97 Spyder GS-T)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 15:24:07 -0600
Subject: Desperate
Message-ID: <#3>
Hey everybody!
I'm looking for someone to share a room with at the shootout. Please
respond quickly so we can get reservations.
Thanks,
Dave Flaherty
92 GSX
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 15:33:36 -0600
From: Jason/Eric Straatmann <jesers@is.usmo.com>
Subject: RE: 2G steering column Mod
Message-ID: <#4>
I would first like to thank William T. Goldbach <goldbach@tellink.net> for
this mod. Second I would like to add my own *helpful* hints:
2G Steering Column Mod
Why: The 2G Dsm's steering wheel just does not go up high enough for
bigger people. I am 6'3" and now I can drive with alot more comfort.
What you need:
large flat screwdriver
a 12 MM deep socket
an extension bar (almost a need on a stick)
a good light source
about 30 min (your time differ)
Bandaids (I tore up my hands)
a blanket to put on the floor as it is softer than the lip of the door.
8 Washers 1/16" thick x 1/2" I.D. x 1" O.D.
1. Look under your dash, you will find 4 bolts that hold the steering
column to the body sheet metal of the car(it will be the same color as
your car). Loosen all the bolts till they are ready to fall out.
2. Remove one bolt. Push up on the steering wheel and slip you big flat
driver under the steering column bracket. Pry it open a little farther.
Slide two of the washers between the column and the sheetmetal. Center
them and loosely put the bolt back in. Do this until all four bolts have
been done.
3. Retighten the bolts. Enjoy the new found room and repair you hands.
This works great!!! Thanks alot William!!!
Just my 2 cents worth. If anyone cares I have moved my front L plate
and it looks great. I will post spec's if any one wants them. If any
one has any 97 parts that they want to get rid of please mail me.
Jason
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 97 16:45:00 PST
Subject: Re: Dyno
Message-ID: <#5>
>I recently Dyno'd my car on a DynoJet Dyno.
Andy, can I ask for one more thing? DETAILS, DETAILS, DETAILS :):)
I think that entire digest would be interested in knowing more about
your experiments. For example:
- At what boost did you get 413 HP?
- What are your mods? Turbo? Fuel system?
- What gas were you using?
- Have you been able to come up with HP/PSI relationship?
-Are these numbers as measured at the wheels or they have been
adjusted to represent numbers at the crank?
Have I left out anything out? Thanks for your time.
Leon
94 AWD
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 16:45:41 -0500 (EST)
From: "lionel@hcl.com" <lionel@hcl.com>
Subject: Dave B kicks Butt!
Message-ID: <#6>
Dave B wrote:
>Let me tell you all a little
>something about polishing exhaust components. Doesn't mean sh**! 15
minutes
>after you run the car the crap is all carboned up and rough anyway. A good
>carbide port job with a stone polish is all that is needed.
Anybody who has taken apart an exhaust manifold knows this is 100% true.
I asked these polishing questions a while ago when I was getting my intake
and heads ported for my Mustang, and they (J+P Performance) said the
exact same thing. They even port the same way that Dave B describes.
So how fast do their Mustangs go? Yellow one: 8.58@164, red one: 8.80's.
Numbers talk and bullsh*t walks...
More Power to Dave B!
Regards,
Lionel Chichioco
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 16:50:23 -0500 (EST)
From: RobGSX@aol.com
Subject: Eight second Talon
Message-ID: <#7>
I saw the following paragraph in the Jan/Feb issue of Mopar Performance
News.
The Eagle Soars - Ed " The Eagle " Belfour spends most of his time
stopping 100 mph slap shots as an all-star goalie for the NHL Chicago
Blackhawks. Recently Belfour was filmed by ESPN to highlight his off -ice
passion -- drag racing. Belfour pilots a Koffel's Place 498 cubic inch
Chrysler B1 powered Eagle Talon in the 8.18 seconds, 165 mph range. With his
NHRA and IHRA licenses in hand, Belfour aims for a future in drag racing
after his hockey days are done.
I wonder if Ed " The Eagle " Belfour is a member of Club DSM. If not, maybe
someone can send him a Club DSM shirt to spark his interest.
Regards, Rob
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 14:13:27 -0800
Subject: Pictures for web site.
Message-ID: <#8>
Hey dudes,
I am in need of electronic pics of DSM cars. As Dave pointed out a
little while back, we are updating his web site to a whole new one.
I would say it's a few steps ahead of the last one, BUT, it does use
frames. I know, I know, some of you guys don't like frames, but in
this case, it's not for asthetics, it's for functional use. The site
is much easier to navigate using this method and that was the No.1
complaint about the current site, it was hard to find your way around.
When I asked people what they would like to see in a new site, a lot
of people wanted more pictures like the ones that are currently on the
racing page. It seems that DSM owners just can't get enough of each
other's cars and want to put faces (or car fronts) to people that they
communicate with on a regular basis. Dave's site is as good as any
for something like this since most of the cars in the gallery would
have at least one part from him. Currently, in the new site, there
quite a few pics of my old car, my new car, Paul's car, and Dave's car,
but I need more to add some variety. If you have an electronic picture,
this is what I need to know:
1. Picture name
2. Description of what you were doing when pic was taken (autocrossing,
road racing, drag racing, or just sitting there, etc.)
3. Where the picture was taken, (city, state, country)
. Name of the owner, (firstname AND lastname)
5. If you have any Buschur Racing parts on the car, what are they.
As for the shootout, I don't think I'm going to be able to make it this
year. Last year, I was pretty growtchy(sp?) at the event because I came
out alone (I will NEVER travel alone again) and had a rough plane ride
out. This year, if I come up, it will be with Paul. The major problem
is time off at work. That weekend has almost all of the management going
away so I doubt I'd be able to take it off. The plane tickets are a bit
cheaper this year at C$600ea return. I don't know, I'll have to see.
I really want to be there when Dave runs 10's, but it's a long way to come.
And I don't think I've gotten over the bird sized masquitos yet, right Bill?
Farzaan.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 16:22:35 CST
Subject: The anger swells
Message-ID: <#9>
Oh boy, how is everyone today,
>There are at least a half dozen phone calls a day I could sell a part
>to someone and end up talking them out of it because at the stage they
>are at either isn't going to help or it is just a junk part to begin
>with. These are on parts I can get and sell, not parts I don't have
>and can't get!
Dave. If the customer is cock-sure he/she is right and that is the part
they *want* then sell it if you have it. I assume you have quit your
other job so that you can do this full time. Then do it.
Business sell all kinds of varied parts not just the ones they will only
use. You really came off this time as being a bit over zealous about
your opinion (granted you do back it up). Dave, no disrespect here, but
if you are in business to sell, build, wrench for automobiles then sell
parts that are of good quality, for a good value, with honesty on
shipping and returns. It is the quality of service and advice that get
you a good reputation in my opinion. You are well qualified to give
advice as to what you believe to be correct and if the customer agrees
than they will listen to you and buy or not buy or they may choose to
follow their own intuition. It is their perogative. But getting angry
because someone doesn't listen to your advice will gain you only a
smaller market (less money unless you charge more). Sometimes when
others do things which are not advised and they achieve a positive we
can all learn, all of us.
You have proven your knowledge and experience but there will come a day
when others out there who will be as fast as you and may be faster.
Using your own reasoning, should then everyone leave your commitment to
service and quality and not use your business for their car desires?
Immature comments about you and your work only reflect on the bad
attitude of the person who made those comments and you reacted overly.
As a person you have the right to get mad, as a business owner do you
really want everyone to see you this way?
You made a comment about this guy being a "pussy" several times and that
was not very nice. He didn't like your work and spoke badly of you so
you bash him in public with profanity, not cool.
FRom reading this digest and what people say about you and from talking
to you personally, I think you are an honest, knowledgable and nice
person. Don't tarnish your image with derogitory defensive language.
Your work, effort and professional conduct will speak for themselves.
I don't mean to say you shouldn't have done a "little" bashing. It is
that you made some bad statements and your overall tone is one of
arrogance (not that that is bad, 'cause I too get it:)).
Wish you well and success.
C-ya!
Tome
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 97 17:06:39
Subject: Re: porting and sh*t talking
Message-ID: <#10>
>>Bottom line, I have got to be one of the dumbest business men that
>>ever lived.
Dave, if it's any consolation, you're not the dumbest businessman that
ever lived. *I* claim that distinction. That's why I'm always broke
and have to work for someone else just to make ends meet. Not only did
I spend most of my time talking people out of buying every dumbass
service or product some greedy schmuck tried to sell them, I would
spend hours of billable time on the phone telling them how to do stuff
they would have gladly paid through the nose to have me do! I
basically ended up working long hours and making less than minimum
wage.
I would like to give you one piece of advice based upon my vast
experience at being unsuccessful in business. I think it's fair to say
that we on this list know you to be honest and forthright in your
dealings. And we appreciate the expertise you share so freely with us.
Not to mention the great prices you give for the things you sell. I'm
not suggesting that you do anything different except this: make sure
you charge us enough for stuff to make a fair profit. You're not doing
yourself or the rest of us any favors if you go under because you
tried to save us a few extra dollars. Stuff costs what it costs.
Frankly, I'd rather deal with you and pay a little MORE than deal with
some moron out to sell me his/her entire inventory every time I call.
>>I hope your shop and dishonest practices close up and you lose your
>>a** financially.
And another thing, don't keep your feelings so bottled up. Tell us how
you REALLY feel. :^)
Jim '95GST
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 17:48:48 -0500 (EST)
From: Frank de Kat <fdekat@sentex.net>
Subject: Brakes, Hyundai Rally "Talon"
Message-ID: <#11>
To all those crazy car nuts, that have no life (but do have a Talon...!)
>Has any one bought the stainless steel braided brake lines and put them
>on? I don't like the sponginess of the brake pedal I was wondering if
>the stainless steel braided lines help or not. They aren't real cheap,
>so I am only interested if it really improves the feel.
I help service a rally VW Golf, and after almost every hard run stage *I*
have to bleed the brakes, because the pedal is soft. Bleeding never does
really help. While filling up the master cylnder, the driver was pressing
on the brake pedal, and this caused the whole master cylnder & booster to
move. What I think is really happening, is that his brakes fade a bit as
they get hot, so he has to push on the pedal harder to compensate. As the
firewall/booster mounting points are not all that stiff, is causes him to
think that his brakes are spongy.
So.... Before you run out and buy steel braid brakelines, have someone push
hard on the brakes when you take a look under the hood, and take alook at
what the booster and master cylnder is doing. Some rallists have all sorts
of brackets in place, to stiffen up the master cylnder mounting points.
>In last month's Turbo, there is a Hynudai looking rally car that has what
>looks like a Mitsubishi turbo engine. It has 400+ hp and AWD. What ever
>drivetrain it has, it hooks up to a Mitsubishi engine. I think TAD worked on
>the car.
Rally "Legend" John Buffum has built such a car, for his son Paul Choinere
to run in the SCCA/Michelin rally series. I have seen it, and under the
hood, it looks very much like the older Talons, although it is heavily
modified.
Also, quite a few Talons are running as Rally cars. Between the AWD, and the
fantstic amount of power that can be obtained, they make a good,
cost-effective rally car. A bit different game than going a quater mile in
a straight line though....
Take a look at my home page, to see one of them.
Frank de Kat
Dundas
Ontario
Canada
My Rally Pics Homepage is at: http://sentex.net/~fdekat
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 18:13:09 -0500
From: "Blaine J. Weddle" <bweddle@chemistry.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Time for Balancer Belt Replacement (maybe)???
Message-ID: <#12>
I'm just passing the 90,000 mi. mark and I know that is time for some
general maintenance. I was looking through my past receipts and I
noticed that although my timing belt was replaced at 71,000 mi. that
my balancer belt has not replaced since 41,000 mi. I'm kinda pissed
that my mechanic didn't recommend replacing the balancer belt at the
same time that the timing belt was changed. Anyway, my question is
this....Should I go ahead and have the balancer belt replaced now or
can I get by on it for another 10,000-15,000 mi. until I sell the car
(probably this summer). Also, is the damage as serious if the
balancer belt were to break as it would be if the timing belt broke?
[No - however, the balance belt has no place to go when it breaks it is stuck under the cover. Most likely, it will want to do the
tango with the main timing belt. -talon mgr]
Thanks for your comments.
Blaine
-----------------------------Date: 23 Jan 97 19:09:07 EST
Subject: (1g,t) Will a 95 awd tranny fit a 1g,t awd?
Message-ID: <#13>
Is the 95 tranny better than a 94? Will it fit? What mods and are they
difficult? Will the cables on the shifter work without mod?
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 16:15:51 -0800
Subject: Various.
Message-ID: <#14>
>Maybe we ought to tear apart a new Porsche Turbo... it has 400hp from the
>factory and is bullet proof as far as I've heard. The Nissan Skyline GTR
>also has AWD and makes gobs and gobs of power. It can run 10's on street
>tires.
As far as the Porsche goes, the weak link there is the clutch. No one
has ever broken a transfer case or rear-end on a stock clutch in a DSM.
There was a fellow I know with a new 911 TT that took it drag racing.
He revved it up to 6000rpm, dumped the clutch, the car's clutch slipped
all the way down the track. He ran 15.X @ 110mph, it was pretty gross.
The car stunk when he brought it back. Well, that car is now traded in
and he's waiting for his 911 Turbo S to arrive.
The Skyline on the other hand has an awesome drivetrain, which can handle
some serious power.
>In last month's Turbo, there is a Hynudai looking rally car that has what
>looks like a Mitsubishi turbo engine. It has 400+ hp and AWD. What ever
>drivetrain it has, it hooks up to a Mitsubishi engine. I think TAD worked on
>the car. I'll go do some research!
If you take a car to a gravel road, you can put 700hp down with our
stock drivetrains and probably a stock clutch, the tires will spin, not
the clutch or the drivetrain. These guys only have to launch perhaps once
every four to five races on ashpalt and even that's on cold slick tires
that spin easily. For the record, I never broke any drivetrain parts on
my car and I really sh*t kicked that poor thing, but then I don't launch
off the rev limiter either :)
I kind of want to get something off my chest here, so please allow me to
vent. How the hell do people think the drivetrains in these cars are
weak? You can do a 12 second run at 110mph without breaking anything
and people consider this weak? Most AWD cars that come from the factory,
including big $$ Porsches will destroy their clutch if you do this and if
you get a better clutch, it will break the gearbox or an axle. Many a
911 Turbo and 944 Turbo have broken axles from launching hard. I think
some people don't understand the forces involved in launching a 3200lb
AWD car with 350hp. If you don't do a 4500rpm launch at the track,
YOU WILL NOT break parts, you won't be as fast, but you won't break
parts. I know Ferrera said that he was still breaking parts even with
granny shifts, but that I can guarantee was his clutch choice. Even a
granny shift with a 4-puck clutch will be too much stress for the
drivetrain. But, I have to give credit to Ferrera for trying different
things. I know we'll be ordering a carbon fibre driveshaft to reduce
the rotating mass down there. I broke three diffs in my FWD car from
a poor choice of parts, but I learnt too :)
Now that I own a RWD car, I feel kind of sorry for my old Talon. In the
Porsche, when you shift into second hard, it goes all squirmy and the tires
spin like crazy. The AWD obviously stopped this from happening, but the
clutch I'm sure took a hammering as did the transfer case and diffs.
I remember reading an english magazine where they took a 400hp Escort
Cosworth and painted a white stripe down the center driveshaft. They
took it up the limiter and dropped the clutch. The car did a high 3
second 0-60 and did the 1/4 mile in something like low 12's @ 112mph.
The white stripe had warped around the driveshaft! We should do this
to Dave's car one day, maybe he can wrap it around a couple of times.
Mark your calenders, Feb 1 will be launch of Buschur Racing's new site!
Farzaan.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 97 17:19:30 MST
Subject: RFR: Exhaust recommendations
Message-ID: <#15>
Hey, y'all,
It's time to add some muscle to my stock '97 GSX. I've ordered
most of the parts I'll be needing, but I need some suggestions for an
exhaust system. Although my first phase of modifications won't take
me much over 275-300HP, I do plan on performing further upgrades in the
future, so I've decided that investing in a 3" cat-back exhaust
will be worth it. To those of you w/ 3" cat-backs: who made your
system and how satisfied are you with it?
I heard that Buschur will have his own 3" system in
~1 month, and the same goes for Extreme, but I'm very impatient,
so I'm wondering what I can get now!!! If it's worth holding out
a month for a Dave B, so be it...I need some input to decide.
I heard that Thermal Research has a decent 3-incher..anyone
heard of these people or have good experiences w/ this exhuast?
OK, second issue: stock catalytic conv...there's not too
restrictive, right? So spending $200 on a high-flow won't buy me
too much extra power/decreased backpressure, right? From what's
I've read, it seems that Mitsu did a pretty good job on the cat,
so it's not a major restriction...comments on this?
Lastly, downpipe...obviously a 3" will let the engine
breath easier, but has anyone had success with a 3" downpipe
and stock wastegate. I heard that boost creep is inevitable without
an external wastegate (which doesn't fit in my budget!)..any
experiences w/ this?
That's it for my questions..I've been a DSM-er for just
2 months (got my '97 GSX in late Nov after a
LOOOOOOOOONNNNNNNNGGGGGGGGGG
wait), and I've learned a lifetime of info from reading
the digest. Thanks, everybody, and especially Todd.
~Allon
'97 black GSX - soon to be non-stock!
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 17:24:00 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: Nology wires
Message-ID: <#16>
Hello,
I have Nology for about 6 months. I spend about $150 including the
Firestore spark plugs. I don't feel any thing at all.
Same thing happen to my bro's Civic, he got Nology too. But no difference.
Just my 2 cents.
~Benny
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 18:11:41 -0800
From: "Cadet Christopher S. Dotur, x4640"
<DoturCS97.CS03.USAFA@usafa.af.mil>
Subject: FYI: 3000GT parts
Message-ID: <#17>
Chris,
I posted just yesterday that I was in the market for a transmission for my '91
VR4. I would be very interested in you friend's. I don't really know what a
fair price for a used one is, but since you requested a figure, I'll just throw
$1,000 out there for grins.
Richard
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 21:19:46 -0500 (EST)
From: Richard Ko <masterko@expert.cc.purdue.edu>
Subject: Turbo 97 and stuff
Message-ID: <#18>
Hello to the members of the digest!!
I just recently got back on the digest after a semester off from school
and I have a couple of questions. I recently sold my blue 91 GSX and
purchased a 97 Green Eclipse Turbo and all I can say is WOW..
I'm planning to make the trip to the Ohio from Chicago in May and was
wondering if anybody in the vicinity wants to travel together. If
interested, please e-mail me at masterko@expert.cc.purdue.edu
By the way, if any of you are interested in OZ 17: Monte Carlo wheels
with BF Comp TA (225/45/ZR17) tires I'm getting rid of them for a really
low price ($1500 or best offer). Please check out my homepage if you
want to see how it looks on a 97 Eclipse.
The address is http://expert.cc.purdue.edu/~masterko
Well, that's it for now!
Rick Ko
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Thu, 23 Jan 1997 21:26:06 -0500 (EST)
Richard Ko <masterko@expert.cc.purdue.edu>
Subject: Turbo 97 and stuff (fwd)
Message-ID: <#19>
Hello to the members of the digest!!
I just recently got back on the digest after a semester off from school
and I have a couple of questions. I recently sold my blue 91 GSX and
purchased a 97 Green Eclipse Turbo and all I can say is WOW..
I'm planning to make the trip to the Ohio from Chicago in May and was
wondering if anybody in the vicinity wants to travel together. If
interested, please e-mail me at masterko@expert.cc.purdue.edu
By the way, if any of you are interested in OZ 17: Monte Carlo wheels
with BF Comp TA (225/45/ZR17) tires I'm getting rid of them for a really
low price ($1500 or best offer). Please check out my homepage if you
want to see how it looks on a 97 Eclipse.
The address is http://expert.cc.purdue.edu/~masterko
Well, that's it for now!
Rick Ko
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 97 19:33:20 MST
Subject: Imagine Motors
Message-ID: <#20>
Anyone have a voice number for Imagine Motors? The number in the Club-DSM
Vendors section seems to be a fax/modem...
Thanks.
~Allon
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 21:43:14 -0600
From: Speed <speed@starnetinc.com>
Subject: Clutch-Starter?
Message-ID: <#22>
Hello everyone, I've got a few problems. Yesterday my clutch starts to
go bad very fast on the way to my friends house. When I leave to go
home it's almost totally gone, it's like i'm trying to propel the car
forward while in neutral. I know that if I stop the car it won't get
going again, and I'll be hard pressed to find a hand out here around
midnight. So I blow every stop sign on the way home, and slow the car
before eevry redlight so that it will go green before I have to stop,
and build all the speed possible down every hill. When I got home the
clutch was so gone that after the car was shut down, I could put it in
gear, take the parking brake out, and get out of the car and push it
around like it was in neutral. Here is my second problem, this morning
I try to start the car and all I here is the starter motor spinning, the
engine dosen't turn. Obviously something has either happened to the
ring gear or the starter pinion.
What could have happened? Remember the car started just fine before the
ride home last night.
To make things worse I got a parking ticket at school for driving the
car without the permit to school. !#%@$%?!#!$*@!!!!!!
John
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 23:42:31 AST4ADT
From: "TROY JOLLIMORE" <troy.jollimore@acadiau.ca>
Subject: The Saga Continues...
Message-ID: <#23>
I'm having serious reservations about keeping this car because
of the horrendous actions of the dealer...
As I mentioned earlier, I now have 3 tranny experts that agree
with me that the tranny self-destructed, tearing itself apart,
snapping a rear shaft and breaking the rear diff. One of the tranny
guys is one of the dealer's top mechanics, and the service manager
decides that she 'doesn't believe it'. She thinks that she has the
experience to just say it isn't so, and that I have to pay for
everything as it was an external problem. *Sigh* The final straw
comes this weekend. They want me to bring the parts in so that the
regional rep. can look at them and make a deciion.
Now, here's where I don't trust them. They want me to bring the
parts in tomorrow (Friday) or Saturday, the earlier the better. But
the guy won't be there until Monday or Tuesday. She was also very
hesitant to let me meet him in person, or even mention his name. I'm
even going to go to the point of taking pics or video of the parts so
I can use it for later comparison. I'd bet that they'd even show him
a 'good' tranny part to try to get out of it...I wish you could trust
some prople...
Any suggestions?
Troy
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 23:39:12, -0500
From: GVJF63A@prodigy.com (MR MORRIS S JOHNSON)
Subject: Oil choices/plug gasket [1G-T]
Message-ID: <#24>
DSMers,
My 92 AWD-TSI talon has 70K miles on it and I've being using 10W30 Penzoil. I want to switch to
a synthetic. I know some of you guys use Mobil 1. Has anyone used
Castro Full Synthetic?
Castrol says it bonds to the metal....same sort of stuff the "oil
additive people say".
Are there any disadvantages to using synthetics?
Also I've noticed the service manual mentions changing the oil plug
gasket before
re-installing it. I picked up one at my dealer, its nothing but a
little metal ring($1.05).
Is that something anyone really needs to change? I'd bet the dealer
and/or Jiffy
lube never replaced it....oh well.
Your opinions and advice would be well appreciated,
Stan Johnson
GVJF63A@prodigy.com
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 22:59:15 -0700
From: "Jose H. Viscarra" <papapito@pipeline.com>
Subject: fuel tank recall
Message-ID: <#25>
I am new to the digest and I already love it. Thanks to Todd for the great job.
I just bought a 95 Eagle Talon AWD and I would like to know if anybody in
Phoenix AZ, has done the recall in any local dealer, My dealer Pitre Eagle
never heard of the recall until I asked. Any advices are welcome ...
thank you
Jose H. Viscarra
95AWDTALON
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 01:45:33 -0500
Subject: Alldata CD-ROM??
Message-ID: <#26>
I have stumbled upon the All Data CD-ROM
http://206.136.144.67/ALLDATA/index.html
The disk goes into the TSB's, so it seems to be a good extension to the
service manual.
Does any one have this disk for there T/E/L? Is it worth the money?
[I have it, and the answer is a big NO. The disk could have done
so much more, but it doesn't. It is really just a scanned in
version of the manual. -talon mgr]
Chad Gray
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 01:46:46 -0500
Subject: Timing Belt tools & other ? [1G T]
Message-ID: <#27>
I have a few more questions about doing the timing belts:
1) Do i need the special tools? If so where do i get them? Satan said
that the part numbers that i gave them did not come up in their computer.
Can i get them from Snap-On, or Matco? Does any one what to rent me their
Special tools? I will pay shipping, and $20 for them.
[Check the web page. I've added Miller Special Tools to the vendors
list. -talon mgr]
2) I have not looked into the engine yet, but according to what i have
read, and the way the illustrations look. It seems like i need to take off
the CrankShaft Sprocket to get too the B-Belt. I have air tools so i am not
going to make the special tool that is described on the Web Site. Why
doesn't the TSB say that you have to take the CrankShaft sprocket off?
3) Is there a 'Best' brand of belts? I got mine at AutoZone (Kelly
Springfield is the manufacture) for $75 for all the belts. Am i going to
regret getting these belts?????
4) What else should i look at replacing while i have this sucker apart?
Oil Pump, Water pump......?
5) Why can't i find the info that i have asked through the search engine? I
cannot use the WAIS, so 40 best is all i had too work with.... Am i the
only CrAzY one that is trying to attempt this.... :)
[This problem will be solved soon. I've gotten a hold of a really
good text search engine that has an output about like that of
Alta Vista. -talon mgr]
6) WHY BELTS? Why not Chains, like the good ole' days????
If any one has additional info, of suggestions i would LOVE to hear them. I
have put about 1 week of research into this job, so far.
Chad Gray
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 22:54:56 -0800
From: "Chris LaFournaise (cjl)" <cjl@sequent.com>
Subject: [2G,T] Another silly noise
Message-ID: <#28>
"See, I have this noise in my car. You won't notice because you
don't drive it every day. But it's there. Really." How many times
have you heard that? How many times have you SAID that?
It seems that I am saying it again. The "engine noise" of my car-that is, the noise associated with the RPM and not the ground speed-is louder than it used to be. As the RPM's approach 5000, it gets
loud enough to drown out the stereo, and them seems to dissapate at
higher RPM's. In my opinion, this is not a symptom of the timing
belt skipping a tooth: as I understand it, that noise that would be
much, much louder and most obvious when you stick your ear under the
hood. My noise is most noticeable from the driver's seat, and seems
to resonate from the floor. It sounds a lot like a hole in the
exhaust system.
I first noticed it eons ago-- on a really wet day, upon splashing
through a puddle. Suddenly, the "engine noise" would just be louder.
It would seem to eventually go away. It was humorous at the time.
Now, my car has that noise all the time. This behavior appeared
right when I had the fuel tank recall performed. I noticed it as I
drove out of the parking lot of the dealership.
I've had the car back to the dealer a couple times about this matter.
None of them can really say that they've heard it, and frankly they
wouldn't know it unless they drove a Talon around all the time (after
all, this is not a Buick). They've inspected the exhaust: there are
no holes, and they've retightened all of the fasteners.
So does anyone have any ideas? Similar experiences?
Chris
95 Tsi Awd
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 00:58:58 -0600 (CST)
From: Bruce Anderson <rba@eden.com>
Subject: Some good news... and some bad news
Message-ID: <#29>
I recently posted about my friends 3000GT getting wrecked... and a
problem where the insurance company had basically screwed him... well it
seems they were doing this just to test him... a mutual friends father is
a lawyer and he called the insurance company on weds... just to see what
all was known etc... thurs morning my friend gets a call saying the
company has 're-evaluated' the situation and they will now pay for 70% of
the damage done to his car... they said the accident was somehow 30% his
own fault (a guy runs a red light... hit my friend in the rear after my
friend makes a right turn on green and it's 30% his fault!?!?!) some law
says if an accident occurs within a certain distance of a corner (as this
one did) it is at least partially the turning driver's fault... but this
isn't what worries me... since when did insurance companies get this kind
of power? and for lack of a better word... customer apathy? They were
just going to screw him until they heard that they might have to show up
in court (the lawyer didn't even say this... just said my friend was
considering) and then all of a sudden they're ready to pay... i guess
that they're ready to pay is the good news... and the bad news is that
obviously if he's getting most of the damage paid for he's keeping the
car (he LOVES this car)... so there won't be any parts... and i'm very
very sorry... to all you that wrote me asking about various parts of the
car (20-25 total) i sincerely apologize... i honestly thought the deal
with the insurance company was done (as did my friend) and piecing it out
was a last option... i'll write you each a small e-mail just in case this
post doesn't reach everyone... again... i'm sorry
[Insurance companies are Vegas casinos run by lawyers. Plain and simple.
BTW, you'd better go look up that 70% law yourself. Sounds like
lawyer speak for "We think you are an idiot and therefore want to
screw you out of 30% of your settlement." -talon mgr]
Zach Anderson
90 GSX and one 70% elated friend
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1997 23:06:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: 200Bhp Integra misunderstanding.
Message-ID: <#30>
Regarding my last post about the FTO could have done better than the 1.8L
200BHP Integra, what I meant was the Type R Integra-Japan based 200HP.
Not the 170Bhp GSR. I have got a few people correcting me on than...I
should have mentioned Type R in the first place, sorry.
Anyway...I was at a eagle dealer today checking out the 97 TSi AWD...and
this woman told me not to buy the car because some of her friends
brought it and they said it was falling apart, the 96's. My friends on
the other hand brought the MITSU ones and they rattles but other than
that, it is o.k. I wonder if
the eagles are much worst altough ther are from the same factory.
I have a 92Tsi, frankly speaking, the reason why my car rattles and some
panels fall apart is solely because of the GAB shocks. But super glue
does the job keeping my car intact. I have one in the car handy.
Also I have a non relavant question to ask. What engine does a VW Corrado
G60 and a Corrado SLC have??
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 01:33:30 -0800
From: Curtis Allen Lum <clum@calstatela.edu>
Subject: LA Times article
Message-ID: <#31>
>Hey now, try it in a Talon/Eclipse/Laser!
well, it seems as though you're interpreting the content of the article out
of context. That guy spent about $35,000 on the entire car---show, go, and
purchase price of the vehicle; not $35k on the motor. If you read the entire
article, you should know that the car club the guy belongs to--TEAM KOSOKU
is primarily a 'show-car oriented organization.' They clean up in the awards
dept. at virtually every import car show. Most of them try to add a little
performance to match the glitz, but they're not that fast/quick. Anyway, I
just thought the representation that Steve gave regarding the article/particular car was a little misleading.
curtis l.
BTW, I don't think that guys uses any chrome-plated duct tape, but perhaps
there is a market for it. Afterall, some guys like to stick additional
spoilers on cars already equipped w/spoilers, so I guess anything is possible.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 02:55:10 -0800
From: Todd Day <today@di.com>
Subject: Why aren't we listed, Dave?
Message-ID: <#32>
http://www.goracing.com/norwalk/events/events.htm#may
Norwalk seems to be missing the Shootout from their events schedule...
http://www.goracing.com/norwalk/news/may96.html#9
>From 1996, they have $10 test and tunes on Friday nights! Lets make
sure to show up to that in force, guys!
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 07:03:57 -0500
From: "Frank Mowry" <fmowry@ngs.noaa.gov>
Subject: Shootout info
Message-ID: <#34>
Dave,
With the rate at which people are making hotel reservations, I was
wondering if you will limit the number of cars to 100 this year. It would
probably piss a lot of people off if more than 100 people make hotel
reservations but some of them can't run in the shootout because of the 100
car limit. Just a thought.
Frank Mowry
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 24 Jan 97 07:29:41 -0500
From: Jack Zhe <z@clarityconnect.com>
Subject: Buschur Ported 90-94 Manifold 4 Sale
Message-ID: <#35>
I just upgraded to a ported '95 manifold and external wastegate. That
leaves me with this for sale. Best offer over $100 takes it.
Jack Zhe
NY Tag: ZHE WIZ
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 97 08:18:00 EST
Subject: cold start noise
Message-ID: <#36>
>Although I do have the cold start whine like most people, I think I may have
>an additional problem I haven't heard addressed. When the car has been
>sitting outside all day in cold temps <20F when the engine starts about 2
>seconds after that I can hear and feel a thump and then everything is fine.
My talon tsi 97 does exactly the same thing! I have started it at -33 and
that noise was very loud and it last for about 3 minutes. at -15 it just for
a few seconds. I am sure it's the power steering i check inside the hood and
the noise change as you turn the steering wheel. I did not go to the dealer
because i think this is normal!. I used to have a 92 prelude it was doing
exactly the same thing in cold start.
Michel Savaria
97 tsiawd
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 08:32:55 -0500
From: Jared Rimmer <jdr160@psu.edu>
Subject: 97 Shootout
Message-ID: <#37>
Just wondering if anyone from around PA was planning on attending the
shootout in oHio. Maybe we can caravan? I am going to be coming from exit 17
on the PA turnpike! Let me know, PRAY FOR NO RAIN!!!!!
Jared
90 TSI
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 08:17:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Second Gen rims... Interesting,. need input!
Message-ID: <#38>
>97 turbo DSM's came with 17" wheels...
Only the AWD's have 17 inch rims. The turbo FWD comes with with 16" rims.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 08:50:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: PMS and flow meters...
Message-ID: <#39>
Lowell...ProM MAF...
I thought as you did when I bought my PMS. You can pick that meter up for
$250 in the aftermatket. The problem is that doug remounts the meter section
in a special housing to match the DSM intake hose and modifies the hot wire
tube which gives it a different calibration so you could not buy an off the
shelf unit that would work. Smart on his part but more expensive for us.
Brian
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 08:43:20 -0500
Subject: Re:3000 parts
Message-ID: <#40>
Dear Kenny,
>I remember reading somewhere that wheels off the 3000's will fit on 1st
>gen cars. Is this true, and are there any fit problems at all? What
>about off-set?
Yes, they are a direct bolt-on, 16x8 wheels, same offset, bore center, bolt
pattern, etc. Aren't family ties nice?
Kyle
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 09:11:58 EST
From: "Stephen Torchia" <stephent@stylus.com>
Subject: [2G,T] RE: Cold start whine
Message-ID: <#41>
Like I said in a past post, my mechanic told me it might be the turbo and
I'm inclined to believe him. It doesn't really sound like the whine is
coming from a belt. I've heard it on other 2G, turbo DSMs too.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 10:11:52 -0600
Subject: Rear Differential & various
Message-ID: <#43>
Hello gang!!!
This is probably a really stupid question, but here goes....
What exactly needs to be replaced in order to do the 4-bolt
conversion? It would be nice to have the part numbers if anyone
has them, but just the item names will be OK.
I did the wastegate source relocation mod (that's a mouthful) on
Monday night. Although I have not been able to really test it
like I should (still braking in the CFDF - almost there though),
I did a 'boost test' in fifth gear and it went up to about
16.5psi. This of course is with my bleeder closed totally. The
boost went from 13psi to 16.5psi just by relocating the
wastegate source to the TB. I got on it a little in third the
other morning when it was cooler. The boost shot up to 16psi
then slowed down and went as high as 19psi before it settled
back down.
Anyone that is passing through Nashville, TN for the Shootout
and the Plant tour, let's talk and try to hook up for a caravan.
Robert
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 12:22:43 -0500
Subject: FORCEFED
Message-ID: <#44>
Hi all. I was coming back from North Campus this morning (I got to U of
M(ichigan), Engineering) and I saw a red Laser. It sounded funny, and
when it passed I saw the 4 or 5" tip and the characteristic low-profile
muffler. It looked like a Dynomax muffler, but it really can't be, and
it certainly wasn't a very loud exhaust. The license plate read
FORCEFED, not FRCFED4, just FORCEFED. I was wondering if anyone here
wants to claim it. Any mods? Anyway, just wondering what other DSMers
live around here (Ann Arbor).
Mark Hessler
PS - The Fuel Pump goes in this weekend! 18psi! Wish me luck! :)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 09:33:33 -0800
From: Warren Tsai <warranty@corp.cirrus.com>
Subject: RE: Second Gen rims... Interesting,. need input!
Message-ID: <#45>
I thought we only need camber adjustment if we lower the cars with lowering
springs....
Warren
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 12:32:38 -0500 (EST)
From: Sol Sean Wang <seanwang@grove.ufl.EDU>
Subject: Parts for sale, 2G NT
Message-ID: <#46>
Hey guys,
I've got some parts to sell from my 95 Eclipse GS, as I am trading for a
GS-T sometime within the next week or so...
Nology Wires, silverstone plugs = $110
Iceman Intake System with K&N = $120
Please email if interested.
Sean
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 10:33:51 +0000
Subject: 95-97 camber /alignment etc.....
Message-ID: <#48>
Any comments please RTP, hey you don't want to get your post in the
way of the flames going on do you??? hehehehe sorry had to say it!!!
Okay all,
I totally did not think my question through. I was still gasping at
the astounding $350.00 that archer wants for the rear camber kit..
ACK!!
But I had completely forgot that I installed ST springs which dropped
my car a perfect 1.5"'s :). So THIS is what is causing my camber
problem not the rim itself. Actually the stock wheel and tire combo
is only a few mm's smaller then the current 17" wheel and tire
package..
MY mistake forgive me!!!
BUT I just got back from custom Alignment in Mountain View (great new
shop) They aren't new but their location is.. They have the right
equipment and deal ALOT with race cars, from roadracing to SOLOII
SCCA. But the bad news is YES WE CAN NOT DO anything with our cars
camber wise unless you have camber plates.. PERIOD!!! SHooT.
I did find out however why my car was all over the road, it had
severe Toe out on all 4 corners of the car, They cleaned that up and
my car tracks real nice again at high speeds but will see what
happens on Sundays AUTOX event... Hope I didn't ruin a good thing..
That is it..
Tory *Sitting in Milpitas needing a bigger bank roll!!"
------------------------------
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id UAA13620
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 12:00:05 -0800
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) SCHR0CK
transfer case
2) Michael Chester
My resonance...
3) NMastrocol
"Satan" is alive and well in Toronto!
4) Sandra C.
Lousy weather.
5) Michael Richartz
[1G, T] 95 manifold?
6) Brian Heagney
[EVERYONE] Massive Profec Sale for the members of
7) James Ewing
FOR SALE!!!! I also have some questions about reb
8) Sean
hotels
9) Rob Burns
[1G,T] Temperature Guage Acting Weird
10) Lonnie Pollocks
[T] [1G] Dealer Story [Kind Of Long]
11) Kevan Riley
Talon's continue, says Lutz
12) Farzaan Kassam
Various replies.
13) SteveS
91 TSi For Sale
14) Bobby Bernauer
Panels -- Another question!
15) [__Lews Therin__] [1G] or [2G] 1.8L Turbo!! Is it a 1995 1G?????
16) Derrick Chan
LA race crews
17) Frankie Mint
Thermal Research exhaust systems
18) Jason Lanstra
Update [ALL]
20) howard draper
need Galant ultraflow part #
21) Rick Santangelo
Re: Eight second Talon
22) AWD20L
<2G/T> Tires???
23) Mario
Oil leak on Turbo Line
24) Tom Stangl
Alldate/manual - nope, noway
25) Chung-Hun (Scott) Ki Adjusting drive belt for generator/water pump
26) anthony p. nguyen for sale...
27) Jon Roberts
updated DSM picture archive
29) Bryan Warren
Cruise fuel efficiency
30) Jason/Eric Straatman L-plate lowering 2G
31) The Jackal
Tach Terminal [1GT]
32) Michael Butkus
CAR BATTERIES FOR DUMMIES
33) Greg Clayton
[1G T] A/F oddities
34) Extreme Motorsports Clarification of shipping + new I/C pipes
35) The4Bangr
MUCH CALMER TODAY;)
36) The4Bangr
misc. (can't spell the entire word;)
37) RandyNet
Quirky odometer? - All DSMs
38) Kristian Steenstrup [1g t]Beginners guides to Turbo change
39) Dave Campbell
Club DSM Caps
40) Chad Merritt
buschur exhuast rubbing problem
41) Turbo Mike
[2G] HVAC air outlet changeover
42) Tom Stangl
HELP! Need shop manual pics from 93 manual
43) David Cain
[1G,18] Where's the coil?
44) REITMAN, LEON
CFDF clutch break-in
45) The4Bangr
stuff and more stuff
46) gselph
Adventures at Road Atlanta
47) Mark P. McNamara
Galant VR4 brakes, and belts for lunch?
48) Francisco Rubio
Damage to brake rotors
49) Btalont
Talon for Sale..
50) Richard Helm
(18) Help!..IRC..Various
51) Archeracin
jon roberts
52) Hiren
tires for awd [1G, GVR4, AWD]
53) Frank Mowry
[1G] 4 bolt rear end
54) Farzaan Kassam
Tons o'parts for sale!
55) Benny Chin
Greddy Rebic III?
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
format)
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 17:01:52 -0500 (EST)
From: SCHR0CK@aol.com
Subject: transfer case
Message-ID: <#1>
Last week when I was driving back from Aspen to Indy, my transfer case
decided to lock up. I guess it didn't like 140mph for two hours straight. I
never once got stuck in Aspen, even in 3' of snow. I love flying by Jeeps,
Blazers, Range Rovers. Anyways, the car sat at some dodge dealer (only one
within 200 miles) that had 5 cars on his lot, for a week while I decided what
to do. I had to drive back and get the car and brought it home on the front
wheels. Man does this thing have SO MUCH more pull on the interstate only
being front wheel drive! 30 mpg was nice too. It was like a different car.
Anyone know where I can get a transfer case cheap. The second its back in
the
car is being sold. I had thought about putting the case back but without the
gears in it, course that wouldn't be to nice of me, oh well.
I'm looking for a 95' awd, anybody?
I just got my room for the shootout, at the super 8. They said it was $48 and
$88, respectively.
I better have my "new" car by then.
Anyone else in the Indiana area? I'm in Muncie, at Ball State U.
Brandon Schrock
90 TSI awd (well, used to be)
-----------------------------Date:
Fri, 24 Jan 1997 18:46:52 -0600
From: "Michael Chester" <mchester@utdallas.edu>
Subject: My resonance...
Message-ID: <#2>
Many of you have written, and thanks. Many want
more info...
My car has 88k on it (though I think the previous
owner may have disconnected the odometer). The
timing belt was changed back at 50 or 60k...it
has been consuming oil at the rate of about a
quart a month, give or take. It has also died for
NO reason twice in the last two days. Performance
is down, although the boost gauge still reports
15-16psi (I am not really pounding it since this
happened, just ramped it up to test to see if it
would still make boost).
Assuming it is a balance belt (timing belt goes =
head job), I need to know 1) who I can trust in
Dallas TX to do the work and 2) what I should
expect to pay.
Thanks guys for the help, and thanks Todd for
such a forum...
\/enger
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 20:12:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: "Satan" is alive and well in Toronto!
Message-ID: <#3>
So, I'm shopping for a starter for my 91 AWD. I check around and prices
range from $175 to $240 cdn. for a rebuilt unit w/ trade in, or a place would
rebuild my own for $120 if I brought it in. I call up the dealer, I'm
curious, he quotes me $325 ! for a rebuilt starter.
ii) I call the dealer service and ask about having several things checked out
on my car. He says he will charge me 1/2 hour ($40) for each item, even it
will take a mechanic only 1/2 hour to check everything, If that.
satan sucks
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 20:48:30 -0800
From: "Sandra C." <sandraa@buffnet.net>
Subject: Lousy weather.
Message-ID: <#4>
I just want to say that I drove through some freezing rain/slush/snow,
crap today coming home from work and my AWD is the BEST! I put new tires
on (Turanza from Bridgestone) and I very rarely slide. Living in Western
N.Y. is a pain at times but this car is really dependable. I may
complaign about lot's of stuff when I do post, but this time I just want
to make that statement. See ya...Sandy
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 20:48:11 -0500
From: Michael Richartz <grim@genesis.ispace.com>
Subject: [1G, T] 95 manifold?
Message-ID: <#5>
Hey everyone,
First thanks to everyone who responded to my previous messages. This
weekend I will redo my stereo wiring to try and get rid of the engine
noise I am getting as per some of the suggestions that I have received.
Also it sounds as if we have a small group of us here in the Central
Florida (Orlando) area. So when are we getting together and swap ideas?
I=92ve been reading about people getting a 95 manifold and porting it for
our 1st gen cars, but somewhere along the way I missed the explanation
what the benefit is. I remember something about port work, but don=92t
recall anything about the 95 manifold. Does it just bolt on without any
altering? Is there a FAQ somewhere on this? Could someone give me a
brief lowdown what the advantages are and if I should keep an eye out
for one when I go to my local junk yards.
Chad wrote:
>I think the people on the digest have to realize that the posts that you are
>reading are going to be more negative, than positive. I turn to the Digest
>to answer the questions that i have, or diagnose the problem that i have.
>People dont write to the digest to say "i drove to work today, and i didnot
>break my timing belt!".
By the way...I drove to work today, and I did not break my timing belt!
Mike (in his smart-ass mood)
=9191 Laser RS-T
IRC: RS-Turbo
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 97 21:17:41 -0500
From: Brian Heagney <matrix@enteract.com>
Subject: [EVERYONE] Massive Profec Sale for the members of the T/E/L
digest...
Message-ID: <#6>
All:
Unfortunately, I will not be able to attend the May "shootout" due to my
wife will be in her last weeks before bearing a child. However, I wanted to,
in exchange, share the goodness that Matrix has to offer for the members
of the T/E/L digest.
For a limited time only until the middle of February (or until our source
runs out), Matrix Performance is offering the sale of the GReddy Profec
device (complete kit) for $450.00 plus UPS ground shipping.
In fact, the more people interested (10,20+), the price could even drop to
$425.00 w/shipping.
Please RTP me at: matrix@enteract.com if SERIOUSLY interested.
Happy boosting!
~ Brian/Matrix
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 22:45:05 -0800
From: James Ewing <jce5052@acs.tamu.edu>
Subject: FOR SALE!!!! I also have some questions about rebilds.
Message-ID: <#7>
[I'm getting a little tired of all this MIME-encoded stuff getting sent in.
It is hard to clean up, especially a message like this. Anyone out there
have a script that will clean out this sort of garbage so the digest won't
look so funny? -talon mgr]
Howdy everyone,
I=92ve got some stuff to sell off of my 90=92 Talon. I had planned to ke=
ep all this stuff,=20
but seeing as how my motor is FUBAR=92d, I need some money for my rebuild=
, : ( so I am=20
needing to sell these soon. Any how here is what is for sale:
=20
4 16x8 rims. These wheels have been used for DSM racing for several year=
s. They are =09
semi-scratched, but work well for racing. They are Ultra five star rims.=
$300
Stock turbo and Exhaust housing from a 90=92 turbo. No cracks and works=
well, I took it=20
off to get a 16G. $275
Stock Exhaust manifold from a 90. Slight crack on one tube. Easily weld=
ed. $75
I still have two rear KONI=92s for sale for a 1G AWD. They are in good s=
hape. I am just=20
about ready to take any offer here.
I still have a full set of 4 Eibachs for sale. they are for a 1G, AWD. =
I do not know=20
what they are worth, so make and offer.
I have EVC for sale. It is an early model with the low/medium/high butto=
ns, of which =09
two of them are adjustable. $300
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask. =20
I also want to ask a question from those who have upgraded the internals =
of their=20
engines. I=92ve already talked to some of the =93Big Dawgs=94 about thi=
s. I want to ask=20
something of those who are running mid-low12=92s. Why did you choose you=
r J&E Pistons or=20
your 95 pistons. Are you happy or not that you did or did not remove the=
balance=20
shafts. =20
Any help is appreciated.
James Ewing
90=92 Talon with the =93James Bond=94 feature (a.k.a. clouds of white smo=
ke out the back)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 23:42:51 -0500
From: Sean <talon4x4@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: hotels
Message-ID: <#8>
I just thought I'd let everyone know I made my reservations at the
Comfort Inn (the 2nd one someone posted about) anyways the prices SEEMED
pretty good $37 for Thurs $42 for Fri and $98 (no typo there) for
SATURDAY. I mentioned the I was going for the shootout and the girl
didn't know anything about the 10% discount. So I think I'll be
checking out Saturday. From what I read there isn't anything going on,
on Sunday is there????
Sean
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 00:05:47 -0500
From: rburns@mustang.uwo.ca (Rob Burns)
Subject: [1G,T] Temperature Guage Acting Weird
Message-ID: <#9>
Hi Everybody;
I've got '92 Talon AWD. I changed the coolant at Christmas time
and since then the Temp gauge has been moving once and a while from the
normal position to almost the red zone for about 15 secs, then back to
normal. This usually only happens on the highway at 120-130kph (what, 80
mph or so?) It may have been happening since before I changed the coolant
and I never noticed, but I think i would have noticed it. At first I
thought I may be 'riding' the turbo too much, but I deliberately watched
the boost gauge for a while and that was not the problem. My coolant level
is good, and there are no visual leaks. I'm running about a 60/40 mix
'cause it is damn cold here in the great white north (Ontario)... There
are not signs of oil in the coolant or vise-versa. Rad cap looks good too.
Could the water pump be faulty? I thought about that, but that wouldn't
cause intermittent coolant flow, either it would or wouldn't right?
I've checked the archives, and the most popular fix has been the
thermostat. But if it were sticking, why would it all of a sudden open and
let the coolant through and the temperature back to normal. There may also
be the possibility of an air bubble in the system, how would I fix that?
I open to any suggestions and all are appreciated.
Rob '92 Burgundy Talon Tsi AWD - No mods yet
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 24 Jan 1997 23:50:48 -0500
From: Lonnie Pollocks <"lonnie@lonnie"@po3.frontiernet>
Subject: [T] [1G] Dealer Story [Kind Of Long]
Message-ID: <#10>
Hi Folks,
Pre story info:
1993 Talon
AWD
80k miles
Timing belt changed at 60 K, 80k (see story below)
Only use Castrol Syntec - every 4 k miles
Only use stock oil filter
Changed tranny fluid using synthetic @ 30K, 60k miles Valvoline
Air Filter- Every 25K - Stock
Fuel Filter - Every 23K Stock
PCV- Every 25K Stock
Gas Mileage 22-24
I had a bad experience with a dealer two weeks ago who shall remain
nameless here in Rochester, New York.
First, I was driving my talon on the expressway, when and
I smelled antifreeze, and suddenly lost heat. My temp gauge
was normal, the ambient temp was about 15F. I was about 3 mile
from home so I did not pull over. When I got home, I let the
engine cool, and removed the pressure cap. There was no
coolant visible. I added the correct coolant/H2O ratio,
and started the car and the fluid came out slowly. Snow was to
deep to assess source of the leak so I took it to the Eagle dealer
I bought the car from. The dealer said it was the water pump.
They then said it would cost $600 to fix (Parts and Labor).
I said "can't you do better than that? , I bought the
car here!". They when down to $500.00. This was on a Thursday night.
They said they didn't have the part and to drive the car could cause
damage, and it couldn't be fixed till the following Monday. I felt like I was
stuck. So the next day (Friday) morning I called another dealership which was
a
Mitsubishi dealer. They said they could do the job for $359.00.
I said OK. I will have AAA flat bed it to you . When I went back to
the original dealer I told them what the Mitsubishi dealer had quoted me,
they said they read the book wrong. I told them It was too late, I'm was furious.
To make a long story short. I threatened to tell everyone on the
Internet, and threatened to send a globale-mail note to everyone on my
job which job which employs over 30K people worldwide, and email all of
my friends. I also told them how many people could potentially find out
how bad they were if I did this.
The dealer then not only replaced the pump for $359, they also threw in the
timing and balance belt. The also wanted to throw in a free tune-up and
oil change but I felt the pump and belts was enough and I made my point.
I would not have carried out those threats because I do not know
the legalities, but I sure as hell scared the dealer. (GRIN)
Lonnie
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 01:49:56 -0600
Subject: Talon's continue, says Lutz
Message-ID: <#11>
Hi DSMers,
I found this browsing the web and thought that some of you here might
like to read it too. There has been much talk about the future of the
Talon line. Well read for youseves. There is more in teh article. It
is at:
http://www.chicago.tribune.com/autos/news/mateja/monday/current.htm
"We thought of doing the next generation of those cars
(Normal coupes) on our own, but we're doing well with
Mitsubishi building them for us, the cars represent no
investment on our part (in either plant or production) and
they are selling without us having to offer incentives, so we
decided why not roll over another cycle with Mitsubishi,"
Lutz said.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 02:32:31 -0800
Subject: Various replies.
Message-ID: <#12>
Troy wrote . . .
>
I'm having serious reservations about keeping this car because
>of the horrendous actions of the dealer...
Don't get rid of the car, get rid of the dealer.
>decides that she 'doesn't believe it'. She thinks that she has the
>experience to just say it isn't so, and that I have to pay for
>everything as it was an external problem. *Sigh* The final straw
>comes this weekend. They want me to bring the parts in so that the
>regional rep. can look at them and make a deciion.
I'm jumping into this in the middle so I don't have all the details, but
from what I remember you have a 95 AWD that blew the rear end out.
Whatever the case, it doesn't matter. If you feel that it should be
covered under warranty and you didn't drive it without fluid or something
on purpose, than raise all hell until it gets fixed. I normally try
a nicer approach first, but it sounds like you've already tried that.
Now, it's time to get NASTY :) Here's how you deal with a crappy dealer:
1. Warn the service manager that you are going to the top, not of the dealer,
but of Chrysler and she should be expecting a call from Chyrsler.
Don't let her talk you into letting her call the rep, etc. Tell her that
you feel she has not done enough to satisfy the situation and now you
feel that you must go above her to rectify the situation and to make
the power that be aware of the shabby treatment you've received.
2. Call Chrysler and speak to customer service. Explain everything and
be VERY, VERY pleasant. THis is not the place to get angry. They will
make a claim number and will contact the dealer for you. Mention to
the representative that you want a different dealer to fix the car
because you don't feel they are competent enough.
3. The service manager will have to call you to try and rectify the
situation. The regional rep will likely come down to visit you. Treat
him nicely. If he is a jerk from the beginning, use the following
sentence: "I feel uncomfortable dealing with you sir, you are being
rude and unco-operative even before we have begun, who do I escalate
this to?" This should freak him out, if it doesn't it's a good thing
you'll be dealing with someone else right off the bat. He should at
this time either become friendlier or give you someone else to call.
4. Call Chrysler again and explain that the person they sent was rude
and you didn't discuss the matter with him because you felt insulted.
5. Chrysler at this point will likely authorize the repair or send
another rep down which is nicer and they will sort it out for you.
6. The only unfortunate thing is that you will likely have to use the
dealer you hate to get this work done, but as long as you are nice
to the mechanics, it should be ok.
If you have spent $25,000 on a beautiful car, demand to be treated with
respect. A lot of these service managers are jealous or something that
people this young can drive such nice cars. Demand respect and they
will have to give it to you. I brought 15 sales to my local dealer
after I bought my first Talon in 1991. When they gave me flak on my
last car when I needed some cheap warranty work, I tried to be my
usual polite self and get them to do it, but they woudln't budge, so I
told them that I
won't recommend them anymore and pulled out a sheet that had all the
sales I brought them on there. They seemed adament about being idiots,
and still said "No". In the mean time, my family has bought a minivan,
a sports car, and 2 sedans. Where would these have been bought through?
You guessed it. Anyhow, now they keep calling me every couple of months
to come down and have some coffee and discuss the problems we had. I
just tell them, "You should've thought about what you were doing when
you treated a kid with no respect, now it's too late, I will never buy
a car from you or recommend you again." Even after I say that, they
still call every once in a while when a new Talon comes in or "potential"
race Talons come in, etc.
Bottom line is, treat them with respect and they should treat you with
respect in the end, but if you treat them with respect and they give
you flak, take it to the top and make sure people who have power are
told about this behaviour. You can't complain about a company if you
haven't taken the time to let them know what's going on.
>Now, here's where I don't trust them. They want me to bring the
>parts in tomorrow (Friday) or Saturday, the earlier the better.
Like I said above, tell them you don't want to talk to them directly
anymore and call Chrylser CS and do what they tell you.
Here's a little tip that might help some others out. WHen I bought
the Porsche, the service I've received has been awesome. The dealer
is just incredible. Since I know I'll be keeping this car for a while,
I bought the service manager an expensive pen to use for all the order
taking he does. Every time he writes an order, he'll remember this
$250 pen I bought him. I feel that it has already paid itself off when
the service manager saved me the price (and hassle) of not having to
tow my car in that snowstorm we had. Instead, he mounted a set of
snow tires on rims he had laying around and got them to me to mount in
the underground and get my car home safe and not on a tow truck. Even
if I didn't give the pen, I think he would have done it, but you
never know.
>It seems that I am saying it again. The "engine noise" of my car->that is, the noise associated with the RPM and not the ground speed->is louder than it used to be. As the RPM's approach 5000, it gets
>loud enough to drown out the stereo, and them seems to dissapate at
>higher RPM's.
This is exactly how it feels when the balance shaft belt is 180 degrees
out of phase.
Farzaan.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 10:22:44 -0500
From: SteveS <dmdesign@mindspring.com>
Subject: 91 TSi For Sale
Message-ID: <#13>
[Please do NOT sent HTML text to the digest! (Anyone have a
filter for this one?) -talon mgr]
<fontfamily><param>Times</param><bigger><bigger>1991 Eagle Talon Tsi
AWD
90,000 miles on odometer.
2,500 miles on TOTALLY rebuilt engine, transmission and turbo.
<bold>Modifications</bold>:
HKS Intercooler Piping upgrade
Extrude-honed intake manifold
Ported and polished head with port match
J&E Forged aluminum pistons
Balanced and lightened flywheel
Balanced and blueprinted injectors
HKS Electronic Valve controller
HKS Vein Pressure convertor (D138 EMPROM)
K&N Filtercharger
Turbo Performance Center 16g turbo with clip
Ported O2 and turbine housing
Ported '95 exhaust manifold
Imagine Stainless Downpipe upgrade
HKS off-road exhaust
Centerforce Clutch
New synchros and bearings in transmission
All new gaskets and seals
<bold>Other Key Points
</bold>HKS Boost Gauge<bold>
</bold>Factory Sunroof<bold>
</bold>4 Brand new Firehawk tires
Borbet Type C wheels
Alpine alarm system
Kenwood CD-Player with Infinity Component front and Pioneer Rear speakers
Interior and exterior in great shape
Just spent $4500 on engine work, but so it goes...
Car runs great, but I am getting a family cruiser.
$7500 or best offer.
For more info EMAIL or call 717-391-8794. (You can leave a 15sec.
voicemail)</bigger></bigger></fontfamily>
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 11:20:42 -0600
Subject: Panels -- Another question!
Message-ID: <#14>
I have yet another question concerning my panels:]
Ok, I have a 95 Eclipse, with those dull grey panels.. I would love to get
them done in black. I have tried the sprays, and those don't work very
well (they scratch right off), and I was unsuccessful with the junkyard
lookings :( . I had another idea, what if I covered the panels in a vinyl
like material? Could this possibly work?
Please reply via email (bobbyb@maas.net)
Thank you VERY much for your time,
Bobby
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 11:56:10 -0700
From: "[__Lews Therin__]" <Eclipse@idcomm.com>
Subject: [1G] or [2G] 1.8L Turbo!! Is it a 1995 1G?????
Message-ID: <#15>
I have a friend who first got me interested in the Eclipse. Well after I
bought my Eclipse we started to talk in more detail about the car. It
turns out she has a 1.8L engine in a 1G base but she says the car is a
1995!!! Is she just lying to me or did they really have a 1995 1G model?
Also, after 1993, all Eclipses and Talons had spoilers and the 1.8L engine
was dropped in 1992. So how come this girl's Eclipse has NO spoiler, AND
she has a 1.8L engine?
Any help unwinding the mystery would be appreciated.
Thanx
Josh Walker
Eclipse@idcomm.com
** like the email address? :) **
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 10:54:23 -0800
From: Derrick Chan <trapspeed@earthlink.net>
Subject: LA race crews
Message-ID: <#16>
>
>
>
>
TEAM KOSOKU
is primarily a 'show-car oriented organization.' They clean up in the awards
dept. at virtually every import car show. Most of them try to add a little
performance to match the glitz, but they're not that fast/quick.
Yeah...that article was pretty interesting. What got me was the fact
that the team leader's (RJ deVera)mom drives a show qualitly, slammed
yellow Honda Odysee(pictured in Sport Compact or Turbo). Maybe I ought
to get my mom an 11sec AWD Talon.....hmmmmm.
Anyways, the LA race crew scene has totally been played out. It ain't
OG as it used to be(Bozosoku, Horizon, PCR, etc (1983-90)). If any of
you in the LA area are in a crew, I'm not bashing you...this is simply
my opinion. Club DSM(if we consider it as a full time club) is one I
highly respect. At least we're not a bunch of sticker happy kids who
think a 'monster tach' is going to get us into the 10's.
Play it safe,
Derrick C.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 16:44:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Frankie Mint <dict@concentric.net>
Subject: Thermal Research exhaust systems
Message-ID: <#17>
>I heard that Thermal Research has a decent 3-incher..anyone heard of these
>people or have good experiences w/ this exhuast?
Thermal Research makes a 3" exhaust for 2G,T FWD & AWD DSMs. It is sold as
a cat-back system. The mid-pipe and muffler are finished in a high-temp
black powdercoat. The tip is a 5" polished stainless w/the Thermal logo
engraved on the top. You can contact them at 818.998.7280 for pricing and
fitment, etc. The guy that owns the co. (Chuck) actually owns a muffler
shop (California Muffler) at the same location. He sells and ships direct.
He does have dealers in some areas though (Options carries Thermal tips.) I
had him install the Thermal Research system on my car (97 GS-T) along with
his own custom fabricated mandrel bent 3" downpipe that he also wrapped and
a Perfection high-flow 3" inlet/outlet catalytic. He has welding equip. and
a mandrel press and can basically make an exhaust for any car...most of
these using Dynomax mufflers. The Thermal exhausts are entirely his
design...including muffler construction. This system is very high quality
and this guy's install work (for anyone in SoCal) is very clean.
>OK, second issue: stock catalytic conv...there's not too restrictive, right? So
>spending $200 on a high-flow won't buy me too much extra power/decreased
>backpressure, right? From what's I've read, it seems that Mitsu did a pretty
>good job on the cat, so it's not a major restriction...comments on this?
The cat change is recommended because of the restrictive stock inlet/outlet
diameters when changing to a 3" system w/downpipe. The Thermal exhausts
are
available for both stock catalytics and larger diameter aftermarkets.
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 17:04:37 -0500
Subject: Update [ALL]
Message-ID: <#18>
Hey guys,
I got back the proof for the stickers and it wasn't bad. I sent it back
because they were crooked. They were actually printed crooked on the static
material. You wouldn't believe the stupid things I have had to deal with on
this project. I set up a homepage for my DSM stuff. The address is
Http://users.aol.com/froggestyl/private/dsm.htm, I know it's kinda long but
I am working on getting it in it's own place. For now it will work. Frames
are still available, $4.25/ea. All I need to know is where your plate
stickers are located. The address and instructions are on the web site. If
you have any questions just email me or catch me on IRC.
Later,
Jason
(Froggy on IRC)
'93 Laser RS NT
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 17:46:48 -0600
From: howard draper <verve1@airmail.net>
Subject: need Galant ultraflow part #
Message-ID: <#20>
Hey all,
Anyone out there have a Galant VR4 with a 2.5" Ultraflow on it? I'm
about to order one but I need the part # and size specs. Please RTP if
you have info.
thanks in advance,
h. draper
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 15:15:42 +0000
From: Rick Santangelo <rickrack@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Eight second Talon
Message-ID: <#21>
>Recently Belfour was filmed by ESPN to highlight his off -ice
>passion -- drag racing. Belfour pilots a Koffel's Place 498 cubic inch
>Chrysler B1 powered Eagle Talon in the 8.18 seconds, 165 mph range.
I have this on tape if anyone is interested. It's a short interview with
shots of his Talon ripping down the track. It's more like a funny car
than a Talon though. The interview was done at Norwalk Race Track in
Ohio.
I'm with Rob, let's give "The Eagle" a DSM shirt. Any of you Chicago
members want to contact the United Center and send a shirt his way?
Rick
'90 Black TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 19:38:39 -0500 (EST)
From: AWD20L@aol.com
Subject: <2G/T> Tires???
Message-ID: <#22>
Hi guys & gals, the time came when I finally need a new set of tires for my
car. My question is will the factory rims fit 225/55VR16 tires? Or should I
just stuck with my current configuration which is 215/60VR16 tires. Thanks.
Lee
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Sat, 25 Jan 1997 19:54:41 -0500
"Mario" <Mario@chip.cba.ufl.edu>
Subject: Oil leak on Turbo Line
Message-ID: <#23>
Hey guys,
So I've been trying to fix the oil leak on my turbo oil feed line. I
replaced the lower banjo bolt ($6) since it was there that the oil was
collecting. But it still leaked. A few hours later I'm driving the car and
I look down at my oil pressure....BELOW L. I pull over and check my oil
level. The dipstick is clean and there is oil all over the engine. Turns
out the upper banjo bolt broke in two. So I replaced the bolt ($11), and
everything is IRIE. I'm just impressed that my turbo and engine survived
running with oil.. But I'm surprised that the Oil light didnt come on.
I installed the equis boost gauge last night and I pretty happy with it.
Especially since it's so cheap. But while I was installing it I was open my
car door and the friggin creap a** plastic door handle broke. So now I have
to open the passenger door and then open my door. Maybe I'll just wire the
alarm to roll down the window and jump in like the Dukes of Hazzard. Maybe
it's just me but the door handle just seem like a ridiculus thing to break.
Whatever. But despite the problems, all it takes is one spool of the turbo
for me to remember how much I love these cars.
Tek it eazy nuh,
Mario
91 Talon NormAsp for sale
90 Talon Tsi
-----------------------------Date: Sat, 25 Jan 1997 17:08:21 -0800
Subject: Alldate/manual - nope, noway
Message-ID: <#24>
>>have stumbled upon the All Data CD-ROM
>>Does any one have this disk for there T/E/L? Is it worth the money?
>
>I have it, and the answer is a big NO. The disk could have done
>so much more, but it doesn't. It is really just a scanned in
>version of the manual.
Not to mention that Todd says my scans are better quality than Alldata's
~ I guess that's because I will take the time to clean the pics up after
a scan (at the pixel level). Um, don't expect me to scan the whole
manual, though, noway - I only scan pics necessary for my VFAQs, and
even that is probably not very legal. I'm not reselling anything,
though, so if they sued me, it'd make them look bad ;-)
Tom Stangl
1990 Talon AWD
1992 Laser AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 97 03:28:36 UT
From: "Chung-Hun (Scott) Kim" <Chung-Hun_Kim@msn.com>
Subject: Adjusting drive belt for generator/water pump
Message-ID: <#25>
Guys,
How EXACTLY do I adjust the drive belt for the generator/water pump?
I have a 93 Talon AWD and the service manual.
Do I have enough room in the engine bay to do it without taking
apart other parts of my car?
The service manual says to first loosen the generator pivot nut,
where the hell is that? It's not labelled in the diagram, everything else
is labelled except for that. The rest is pretty straight forward.
The only other thing would be how I could measure the deflection of the
belt because it's pretty tight in there and I don't think I can get a ruler
lying across two pulleys let alone a tension gauge which I don't have.
Thanks.
Scott 93 TSi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 01:02:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: for sale...
Message-ID: <#26>
Hey all,
My friend has an evc III for sale...hardly used....in perfect condition.
Manuals and box still here. brand new evc lists for $800. make a decent
offer...
Thanks,
Anthony
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 10:59:26 -0200
Subject: updated DSM picture archive
Message-ID: <#27>
Since the dsm picture archive went from the ftp server to my home page, I
have added 24 new pictures. This has been an increase of 2.3 megs. I
really want to thank everybody for the new pictures and if you have any of
your car, please send it. The new pictures are pretty cool. I have some
really good looking 95+ models that look really cool.
here are some examples:
http://www.ntr.net/~jroberts/images/dsm/tory1.gif
http://www.ntr.net/~jroberts/images/dsm/apex.jpg
and one wicked background on this 90-91 model:
http://www.ntr.net/~jroberts/images/dsm/gsx.jpg
so please keep on sending me pictures through email.
Jon Roberts
http://www.ntr.net/~jroberts
-----------------------------Date: 26 Jan 1997 21:31:42 -0000
From: "Bryan Warren" <quicken23@hotmail.com>
Subject: Cruise fuel efficiency
Message-ID: <#29>
I heard from a dealer that cruise control can get two to four more miles per
gallon of gas, can anyone confirm this?
Also, I was wondering if anyone has/had a problem with a water leak in the
hatch area of the 2G Diamond Stars. The spoiler on my '96 Talon holds a lot of
water after it rains and as I come to a abrupt stop or a downgrade, water
spills from somewhere into the trunk area and/or back seat. It has been to the
dealer 3 times for this problem (obviously, they can't fix it) Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Bryan ['96 Tsi]
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 17:25:20 -0600
From: Jason/Eric Straatmann <jesers@is.usmo.com>
Subject: L-plate lowering 2G
Message-ID: <#30>
Hi Everyone!
I have received alot of mail concerning my license plate lowering. So I
decided to makea rough "How to" for it. Warning these contains really
poor ASCII drawings.Also I do understand that they are a little hard to
follow so start cussing now. Any revisions you make are welcome.
Front License Plate lowering On 2G Cars
What you need:
a steel box 7x4.5x4.5 inches
matte black spray paint
small felt bumpers
too much free time.
1. Make a steel box with dimensions of 7x4.5x4.5. NOTE: leave the one of
the 7X4.5 sides open. You can use perforated steel assuming the holes are
not too big. Spot weld the box together at the tabs on the corners
(making sure the tabs are in the inside).
2. Remove current L-plate bracket from car. There is 3, 10mm bolts under it.
3. The open side will be the back so you can access the bolts on the car. What
follows is a drawing from the top view. The "O"'s represent holes. Drill one
hole centered and set back from the back one inch. Hold up the old L-Plate
holder on top of the box and use it's holes as a guide for the other 2 holes.
You may want tomake them in to a track rather than a hole as show in the
right hole. This will allow for a tighter (adjustable) fit.
_________________________back_____________________
| hole centered and set 1 inch in.
|
|
O
^
|
|
O
||
|
|
U
|
|_________________________________________________|
^
|
| -------------------------------------|
^
|
O
|
|
|
OE bracket
|
___________________O____________O___________________
PLATE HERE
4. Now take the plate bracket and slide the bottom of it under the bottom
of the box. Making sure the plate is closest to the solid side of the box.
Take a strait edge and hold it against the box (vertically) Line it up with
the "bumpers" on the OE bracket They should be in line and square. Now mark
on the bottom of the box the position of the holes. Drill....
5. Paint the box black. Use a matte paint.
6. While it dries put the felt on the "bumpers" and on the bottom of the
L-bracket.
7. When dry secure the OE bracket to the box making sure to have the back
side open.
8. Secure the box in the "mouth" of the car using stock bolts. Adjust using
tracks so the felt on the "bumpers" just barely hits the facial.
You are done!!! I know how hard it is to understand but, Simply put Make a box.
Attach the OE bracket to it, Attach the box to the car. This lowers the
bracket and brings it in closer to the car. I am sure you can use angle iron
or other things but, the box is strong and light weight. Yes it does block
some air flow but I have took a hot MO August and never had any problems.
If anyone want to help clear up this "how to" please do you best. It is kinda
hard to do. I need to get some pics to show how it is done. It really is
simple.
Jason
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 15:37:34 -0800
From: The Jackal <justa4@cyber-nation.com>
Subject: Tach Terminal [1GT]
Message-ID: <#31>
Hmm, I can't seem to be able to get any reading out of the
tach test terminal (white/black wire) on the firewall from my
91 GSX.
I tried hooking a frequency counter the terminal. Tried all
combination (+ to terminal & - to battery, - to terminal &
+ to battery, floating ground, etc..) but all I get is a big
fat 0000. Hooked up a scope to the terminal and
discovered a small signal (very noisy and seemly
uncorrelated to engine rpm). Checked voltage of the
terminal and got a nice constant 13.xx volts.
So, the $1,000,000 question is does anybody know what the
blitz is going on? Is my test terminal toast? My tach on the dash
is still working fine so I'm clueless. Am I hooking up the
terminal incorrectly?
[Uhhh... that test terminal is not an output, but an input.
When you ground it, the ECU will turn off all of its automatic
trim features so you can set the basic idle speed to 750.
-talon mgr]
Thanks,
Jack
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 06:32:00 -0800
From: Michael Butkus <butkusmi@postoffice.ptd.net>
Subject: CAR BATTERIES FOR DUMMIES
Message-ID: <#32>
For all those that wonder why Eclipse/Talon batteries don't last.
http://nyquist.ee.ualberta.ca/~schmaus/batdum.html
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 06:09:31 -0600
Subject: [1G T] A/F oddities
Message-ID: <#33>
Hello all. I went on a short road trip yesterday and noticed something strange
with my A/F gauge. If I cruised at about 75 it would cycle between lean and
rich like its suppose to but most of the trip I had the cruise set at 94 or so
and the gauge would quit cycling, just sit right below 1 red bar the whole
time. I'm wondering if something is wrong with my o2 sensor or if the cruise
actaully has to give it enough gas to keep the thing from cycling at 94 mph.
I got worse mileage than usual on this 200 mile trip usually get much more on
the highway. It may be normal, if someone could let me know their experience
(I hope I'm not the only one that cruises at 94 for 200 miles :) ) I just
wanted get this fixed if it is a problem before my 600 mile trek to Norwalk.
If anyone is wondering why 94? So I was 1 mph under 'aggrevated speeding'
which is 25 mph over the speed limit which is 70 here.
[The ECU goes out of closed loop above 4500 RPM. I believe you were above
5000 RPM at 94mph. This means crappy gas mileage time. -talon mgr]
Thanks,
Greg
-----------------------------Date:
Sun, 26 Jan 1997 20:36:41 -0500
From: "Extreme Motorsports" <Extreme@nicom.com>
Subject: Clarification of shipping + new I/C pipes
Message-ID: <#34>
I would like to make a clarification of our shipping policy. We are still
offering free shipping in the continential US on everything except exhaust
systems and suspension parts. Still the rest remains the same--- call on
our 301-776-2903 line and mention the DSM pages.
We finally got in our new I/C pipes for all years and they are dead
perfect. All mandrel bent and polished stainless steel-- and they're in
stock too. If you have already ordered a set they are on the way. We will
be putting pictures of these sets on our web site as soon as we can.
Sincerely,
Sean
Extreme Motorsports
301-776-2903
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 21:15:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: MUCH CALMER TODAY;)
Message-ID: <#35>
Hi fellow shootouters,
Here is the scoop. Like every other money hungry scum sucker out there
Super
8 motel has now decided that since we may actually fill their precious little
motel they are raising the price as of this morning. Anyone who got
reservations on or after the 22nd CALL and cancel, for those of you that got
them before today you are fine. Now check this out. I called and got a
great deal right across the street at the Days Inn. The number there is
419-499-4961. I have reserved the entire hotel on my credit card, this means
nobody else can even get a room there except for the DS Shootout
participants. So when you call you have to tell them you are with the
shootout. This is what they have:
Thurs $39
Fri. $39
Sat $60
Indoor pool, exercise room and continental breakfast
40 rooms available
Rooms w/queen beds (2) add $5
Rooms w/queen and sofa bed (9) $10
Jacuzzi rooms and rooms with 2 double beds and sofa also available
First nights stay must be paid in advance by credit card or money order
4 people can stay in a room with no extra charges.
That's it, call and get your rooms!
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 21:15:59 -0500
Subject: misc. (can't spell the entire word;)
Message-ID: <#36>
I figure with my little yelling session everyone had to read the other day
and all the shootout info. I have been posting it is about time I posted
something useful again;)
Fuel cut. I have been getting alot of calls lately about cars missing at WOT
I also saw somebody asked about "mini" fuel cut.
If the car runs fine when the weather is warmer and the missing is only
aparent whent he weather is cold then chances are it is fuel cut. There is
definetley such a thing as the "mini" fuel cut. Make sure it isn't plugs and
wires first. This is also very common.
1. The car misses or bucks under boost.
a. fuel cut
b. wires and/or plugs
2. Car only does it when it is cold
a. Same as above
3. The car misses under boost even when it is warm but not if I turn the
boost down to factory or near factory levels.
a. plug wires or plugs
Bottom line is it is almost always fuel cut or wires. These are a couple
ways to narrow it down. My '90 that I drive everyday has a very mild fuel
cut when it starts getting cold. Alot of time it can be desribed as just a
loss of power, hardly any missing at all.
Gary,
I'm not sure about the roundy-round rules but as for drag racing if you have
harnesses you have to have a rollbar, if you have a rollbar it is has to be
legal. For it to be legal (depending on how fast it is) it has to have
atleast 5 mounting points. One being the drivers side door bar. It can be a
swing out. That is what I have in my car.
Mike Ferrara and Turbo Mag.
I was a little upset with Mike's last sentance in the artlicle too. I didn't
go off on him but I called and asked why he wrote it. He said he wasn't
saying Marc had broke anything, he was just implying that the possibilies are
there and he basically hope he doesn't start breaking them. I know that's
not exactly what it said but when he wrote it that's what he was thinking.
As for him covering my car please don't jump his a** for it. It is entirely
my fault. He wants to run the car. Offered a full feature quite awhile
back. As anyone who has seen my car can verify the engine and interior and
are all perfect. Problem is it has a black front bumper cover that had never
been painted and half way through this year ended up with a black front
fender, hood and rear bumper. Not magazine quality by any means. Although
duct taped big ugly slicked Honda's aren't in my opinion either. So anyway
with all the black panels and such he wasn't too interested in covering it and
to be honest I am glad, would have looked bad. NOW it is absolutely
BEAUTIFUL with new paint and he is ready. Problem now is the engine is apart
and without an engine we can't take the pictures. Mike has promised a great
article as soon as I can get him the pictures. The same story holds for
Sport Compact, no coverage with ugly paint.
1995 owners. I installed a VPC on Ken Krejci's car today, I have had it here
working on it all week. Tried some interesting new idea's. They all seemed
to work. Made a short throw shifter for the car, I actually don't like the
short throws on the old style cars, I make them but don't use it. I'll be
honest though, if I had a 95 it would be one of the first things I would do.
I can't believe the difference. Took all the rubber out of the shift mounts
in the counsole and under the hood. Crazy difference. When we came up with
the idea to do it to the old models it made a heck of a difference, the 95's
are even better. The driveability of the VPc on the new models is greatly
improved, Ken had his hose off the BOV since I did the car for him 2 years
ago. Really nice to drive now. The other thing I did was report the 16G
and install a bigger swing valve. He was getting boost creep, now it will
hold 8 psi all the way to redline! I can't believe it.
Take care all,
David
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 21:44:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Quirky odometer? - All DSMs
Message-ID: <#37>
My car: 91 Talon Tsi FWD 93,000mi.
Todd mentioned:
[No - it is not too difficult to change the odo in these cars. -talon mgr]
I have been wondering if maybe someone was jacking with my odo before I got
the car. The way it runs the higher digits (thousands, and ten-thousands) is
very strange. For example I recently turned 90,000miles, and here is what
happened:
The odo reads 89,999 then rolls to read 89,000. It rolls through about
another 700 miles and reads 89,700, then it flips the thousand digit to read
80,701. I roll through about another 2,000 miles and reads 82,750 and then
it flips the ten-thousand digit to read 92,751.
Anyways, it eventually reads correctly, but it takes about 3,000 miles of
driving to get the 89k to change to 90k. I bought the car at 55k, and it has
done this at 60, 70, 80, and 90k. Does anyone elses car do this? I consider
it a zero priority problem, but I would like to know if anyone else has seen
this?
Let me know if you have any ideas!
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 20:17:23 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [1g t]Beginners guides to Turbo change
Message-ID: <#38>
This is a longish post about my experience in changing the turbo on my 1990
GSX. I thought it might be useful and relevant since when I was asking
questions a few people said they were contemplating such a thing but didn't
know what the ins and outs were.
While I am a rank amateur when it comes to these things, I may have fumbled
through some solution to common problems.
~ on Jan 1 going up the Rocky mountains my car loses power and I can only go
up the mountain at 40 mph. I scan gauges and see 0 boost. Stop and check,
nothing obvious, but it is almost certainly turbo.
~ I drive slowly back home. Next day I drive to work. Car goes slow but
fine, sort of like an overloaded Geo Metro. After some e-mails and advice
(from Dave Buschur) I stop driving it to avoid damage from excessive exhaust
back pressure.
~ I call around and e-mail around to find a replacement. Dealer quotes $800
for a cartridge replacement, various second hand offers of around $500-600
from Denver and all parts of the US.
~ The best deal is from Dave Buschur who has a standard one for $550
complete (not a cartridge.... I am to slow to act and he sells it.. but has
a 16G unported and unclipped for $550.
~ second best deal is from Mike at DSS who has standard at $550, but I a
good line of advice as well when I buy from Dave according to everyone on
the WEB.
~ On the coldest day of the year (-15 in an unheated garage).. I begin.
Following manual and advice from all the folks on the DSM page... Use
liberal penetrating oil on all bolts and nuts. No problems with any getting
stuck. Some need more oil and a tap.
~ only two problems undoing things by the manual. The clip that holds the
overboost lever to the wastegate is rusted on so needs a lot of help. THe
far left (drivers side) exhaust manifold bolt is very hard to get to with
the power steering pump in place. With patience and a small 12mm spanner it
came off, but I suspect it was loose from a previous replacement.
~ no cracks on the exhaust manifold. Everything gets a steel brush clean up
and reassembly gets going (actually the next week which is also cold!) I do
not have replacement gaskets for the Intercooler pipe/turbo junction, and
the oil return pipe to turbo connection. These are put together with instant
gasket.
~ no real problems in fitting the major components on. Used anti-seize on
everything. First problem... 16G turbo inlet is larger than the old air
intake with the rubber insert sleeve. But is too small with the insert
removed. So I needed to make a spacer ring that went under the hose clamp to
get some pressure on it. Following Dave's advice I put the oil and coolant
pipes on before reassembly.
~ don't forget the O2 sensor in the turbo/exhaust as it has to go on before
the manifold is put back on. Also the heat sheild is a pain and mine is now
'customized' a little.
~ Coolant goes back in fine, as does oil. On doing a slow turn over to build
up oil pressure (before starting proper as per advice) the oil comes out
again on the floor... :-(
~ tighten up filter.... more oil comes out.... drain oil, remove filter...
find two(2) o-rings... THe old o-ring was stuck to the oil pump. Two o-rings
are NOT better than one. Replace with one o-ring, and everything is fine.
~ test drive and I have oil leaking on to the turbo from the top oil pipe. :-(
~ e-mail to Dave B and he recommends that I can not hurt it with normal
spanners. So... I buy a flex drive socket extension and remove the fan(s). I
actually can remove the right side one so I loosen it and do some juggling.
Turning the banjo slightly then repositioning I put some more pressure on it
and everything seems fine. I recommend torquing it properly as opposed to
'it is alloy so I should be careful.
~ end result is that my mods are now 16g, air silencer removed and air box
horn removed. There is little performance difference since the 16g (the
others were done last year and made a little difference. The car sounds
different and feels 'bigger'. It has a deeper note, maybe more lag or comes
in at higher revs, but pulls stronger (I think) above 5,000.
~ end result is as good or better than stock, and around $600 instead of
$1000 to the dealer. I recommend this as something you can do at home with a
reasonable set of tools. 10mm, 12, 13, 15, 17, 19, 22 sockets and spanners
I hope this is of help to someone. If you have further advice or questions
on my experience send me a mail.
Thanks to all who offered advice, particularly Dave B.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 97 21:24:35 PST
Subject: Club DSM Caps
Message-ID: <#39>
(This got really long. Sorry)
This is a public service announcement brought to you
by the friendly folks at Club DSM Gifts and Novelties.
First there were Club DSM T-shirts, then license plate
frames and stickers, followed by oil filler caps. Now
for the chapeau-challenged among us, we have...drum roll,
please...Club DSM ballcaps.
Yes folks, be the first on your block to have a unique
example of American folk-headgear. Be recognized far and
wide as belonging to the most informative, worthwhile and
sometimes useful digest in all of surfdom.
(BS mode off)
I have been thinking about a Club DSM cap for some time now
and decided to have a prototype made prior to the Shootout in
Temple. The cap generated a lot of interest. Ok, 2 guys noticed.
Everyone else was really busy, but I'm sure they liked the cap.
Here in Abilene, we have a local monogramming outfit called,
surprisingly, The Monogrammer. They have a wide selection of
baseball and golf caps in a multitude of colors. Some may
even match your car (baseball caps have a 6-section top with
a seam directly in front, golf caps have a 5-section top with
no seam in front).
Having talked to the Monogrammer people a couple of times, I
think I have enough info to pass on to the Digest members and
to offer my services to handle the ordering and purchasing of
the aforementioned Club DSM caps. Cap Czar, hmmm, I like the
sound of that. 'Yes, my dear, they call me the Cap Czar'.
(Details, details, details)
The Club DSM logo would be embroidered in 2 colors on the
front (duh!) of the cap, just as it appears on the front of
the Club T-shirt. Top-half of the letters one color and the
bottom-half in another color, with your choice of cap and
thread colors.
To have the Club DSM logo programmed as a pattern for their
machines, there is a $35 one-time charge. If 35 guys buy a
cap, this adds just a buck to the cost. And, of course, this
cost would go down if more caps were bought.
There are several styles of caps. There are solid color twill
with a braid across the base of the bill and natural color
canvas with colored bills and button on top and are $9. There
is a wool blend in solid and two-tone colors for $10. All caps
are solid fabric (no mesh) with a plastic snap adjustment thing.
A leather strap is available on most of the caps and is $1 more.
The $9 and $10 prices include the Club DSM logo. The programming
adds a $1, sales tax is a little less than $1 and the Monogrammer
people will ship them for $3.50. The shipping is a bargain
considering the hassle and expense of finding boxes, packing
and mailing and I don't think I could do it for less.
So, the delivered price would be $14.50 or $15.50, but could be
somewhat less, depending on the number made. An option would be
to have an official Club model with the same color cap and thread.
This option would reduce the cost by about $1.50 each because the
machine setup time is a lot less. Personally, I lean towards the
custom caps.
I have had them make several caps for me and they do good work
and the caps are good quality, too.
(Insert standard disclaimer here)
I don't work for them and I'm not making any money from the
project. I was overseas at the time. That's my story and I'm
sticking to it.
So, I need some feedback. If you are interested, send me an
e-mail with your preference for custom or standard Club model.
I will send you an e-mail with style and color details.
Dave, Cap Czar, Campbell
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 00:28:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Chad Merritt <chad@usgcc.odu.edu>
Subject: buschur exhuast rubbing problem
Message-ID: <#40>
Greetings all,
I've got a small little problem. I've asked this question
before, but disk problems on my server ate the responses. Anyway, I'm
running a Buschur Racing 3" exhuast on my 90 TSi AWD. I also have
Suspention Techniques springs on the car. My problem is that my cat rubs
on everything. From speedbumps to my driveway (which is NOT steep at
all). Is there anyway to get the cat tucked up some? Or do I need to
ditch the ST springs in favor of something alittle taller, like the
Eibachs. Thanks for your bandwidth and time.
Chad Merritt
90 TSi AWD
irc nick-- chad (the originial one :) )
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 27 Feb 1997 01:38:00 -0500
From: Turbo Mike <trbomike@pipeline.com>
Subject: [2G] HVAC air outlet changeover
Message-ID: <#41>
No matter where my Heat/AC outlet nob is set
(face/face-floor/floor/def-floor/def) I get hot air or A/C out of the vents
in my face. Question: The cable (from the heater control assembly) for the
airoutlet changeover nob runs to the airoutlet damper somewhere under the
center console. Where? Is it under the driver's kickpanel or towards the
passenger side or under the radio? Dont wana get to the heater control
assembly just to follow the cable if I can go right there. I'm hoping its
just not lined up properly and rather check it myself without having the
dealer say something like "thats the way its supposed to work" or "we'll
check, but we'll have to charge a $50 diagnostic fee" and THEN tell me thats
the way its supposed to work.
-----------------------------Date: Sun, 26 Jan 1997 23:33:29 -0500
From: toms@netscape.com (Tom Stangl)
Subject: HELP! Need shop manual pics from 93 manual
Message-ID: <#42>
OK, I am working on the timing blet VFAQ finally, but I need better pics
~ the ones that Alldata and DSM used for the TSB SUCK. So I have been
scanning in the pics from my 90 shop manual, and cleaning them up.
Does anyone have a 93 shop manual, and can you scan in all the pics in
the Timing Belt TSB (at http://www.dsm.org/tsbs/tbelt/tbelt.htm) that
are listed as 93 pics? If so, could you scan them VERY high resolution,
and then save them as JPGs (VERY low compression, please, so I can
compress them here), and send them to me? It is OK if the other side of
the page of the manual bleeds through, I have been cleaning that up. I
just need better drawings to work with. If you can do this, please
Email them to me here at work.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 97 09:19 EST
From: David Cain <cain@syrres.com>
Subject: [1G,18] Where's the coil?
Message-ID: <#43>
Was looking under the hood of my '94 1.8L Eclipse
this weekend and happened to notice that there are
only four (count 'em), four wires to my distributor
cap, one for each spark plug.
So where's the coil, or it's equivalent?
There are at least two other connectors to the
distributor. Are one of these carrying the voltage?
Dave
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 97 10:15:00 PST
Subject: CFDF clutch break-in
Message-ID: <#44>
>Although I have not been able to really test it
>like I should (still braking in the CFDF - almost there though),
All that talk about breaking-in CFDF clutches makes me want to point
out that instruction for RPS Turbo Clutch RECOMMENDS hard driving
for 200-400 after the installation. This is to assure proper break-in of
the clutch. I wonder which method would most people prefer to use? :)
The clutch on my 94 AWD just started slipping and I decided to go with
Turbo Clutch. I had two of them on my 90 AWD and I liked the fact that
RPS stands by their product, unlike some other clutch companies.
Later,
Leon
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 10:31:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: stuff and more stuff
Message-ID: <#45>
Someone mentioned the Starion and Conquest transmissions not breaking. I
have a few ideas on that one.
1. They are actually better, if so it is to bad we can't use them.
2. They don't make the horsepower the 2.0 DSM motors do.
3. The cars are RWD and don't put the strain on the transmissions the DSM's
do.
I can't spell and that IRRITATES (not irrates) me;) I can use the word I
typed three times in a sentence though. "I was at the DS shootout and looked
at the show cars, Irrated the red Laser the best one." See it is a word.
Rob, the 8 second Talon you read about is the one I saw run at NRP last fall.
The car is still up here in Huron, Ohio. It ran a high 8 when I saw it and
they told me it is capable of mid-7's. Full tube chassis, lexan glass and a
Lenco trans.
Todd Day. The reason we aren't listed in Norwalk's calendar of events is you
have to actually have NRP run the event and then they pay you. This will
probably not happen to us. Our event is basically a rental to just test and
tune.
The event.
There will be no limit to the amount of cars we are allowed THIS year. IF we
do go over 100 they are going to let it go. That is why it is not listed and
I have not mentioned it. The hosting hotel now is the Days Inn. Here is
the number again:
419-499-4961. They have the cheapest rates and I have reserved the entire
hotel for us, please call and get your reservations now. When this one is
full it will be a free-for-all to get rooms. They won't be cheap at that
point.
Here are the classes that will be run:
NO NOS CLASS THIS YEAR.
The only class NOS is allowed in is the Bracket One class.
DS Eliminator.
Stock Appearing
Front Wheel Drive ( all years, slicks O.K.)
2nd Generation (any mods o.k. FWD's can run slicks here or in the FWD class)
3000GT/Stealth
Bracket One (handicapped racing)
Unlimited (this class will hopefully showcase the RWD and my AWD. I will not
be racing in any of the classes this year. 4 years in a row of winning is
more than enough. Let someone else have a chance at it.)
[Can you be considered stock appearing if you have to duck your head down
to see my front mount? :-) :-) -talon mgr]
This brings me the comments I made the other day. I have had some response,
which some of you have read. I don't have much to say about it. I will in
the future speak my mind as always. Most of you seem to either appreciate it
or tolerate it. The guys at Capital were wrong and I gave them more than
enough chance to talk it out with me, when they wouldn't I took it into my
hands. We have since talked, Scott called me. Nothing has changed, he said
what he said and said he should not have said it. He admitted he was wrong.
By some of your standards I shouldn't have called him what I did but then
again we all handle things differently. Some of the opinions I have heard
are from guys who shop elsewhere anyway.
For all of the guys that supported me, all but two, thank you. I will not be
going out of business anytime in the future unless I choose to. My prices
are where they need to be for me to feel comfortable selling the parts.
Remember, I am still a racer at heart and know what it is like to spend my
hard earned money on race parts. I will still stick to advising customers
what they need to go fast and what they don't. I will continue to helping
them make the right choices to go as fast as possible with as little money as
possible. If this is wrong then I will stick with being wrong.
As for there coming a time when I will no longer be number one I suppose
anything is possible. Just remember there are a lot more cars out there with
more parts than I have and they aren't even close.
You know what, I could go on and on with someone beating me (the comment
that
was made and my arrogant attitude) but it really doesn't interest me.
Like I said, I appreciate any and all of the input that was made, good or bad.
Thanks and hope to see you all at the shootout.
David Buschur
Buschur Racing
p.s. I finished the first 3" stainless mandrel bent four inch tipped exhaust
yesterday. Really nice. Hardly any bends, perfect fit. It will be shipped
this week to the bender for production. Price should be around $500.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 97 9:58:20 EST
Subject: Adventures at Road Atlanta
Message-ID: <#46>
Road racing is sooo much fun!
I completed another successful session at Road Atlanta this past Saturday.
This time I had the roll cage, five-point harness, and in-car video camera
installed. Temps were mid 40's, sunny, and very windy.
I lined up behind a Acura NSX and a 96 Porsche Carerra 2. A bunch of other
cars were back behind me. After the warm-up lap I started to move in for the
kills. The Porsche was about three turns ahead of me when the green flag
dropped. After about 1/2 a lap I was right on his back bumper. He waved me
past on the front straight while I was topping out third gear on the bottom
of turn #12.
The next target was the NSX. This guy had been passing everyone on the
track
during the other sessions but now I was chasing him down. About two laps
after blowing by the Porsche, I was right on the NSX's back bumper. This
guy's ego would not allow him to wave me by (passing is only allowed when the
car being passed gives permission so as to avoid accidents). Finally the
officials in the flag stations were all waving the "let the guy behind you
pass" flag and he finally waved me to pass at the exit of a very sharp 98
degree turn leading to a 0.8 mile back straight. We both entered the turn at
high revs in second gear, by the time I hit third gear I was 2-3 car lengths
ahead of him, fourth and fifth soon followed and he disappeared in my rear
view mirror. While topping out fifth I quickly came up on and passed a WS6
Pontiac Ram Air Firebird.
A few minutes later I passed a Mazda Miata, an RX-7 twin turbo (who later
lost it under the bridge and went plowing through the dirt), a Porsche 944,
then Robert Vantoy's Eclipse GST, then this pesky Acura Integra VTEC.
After finishing the session, I pulled into the pits to talk to Robert (a list
member from NC) and Rick Laurence (another list member from GA). Rick said
he had me on tape smoking the Porsche and the before/after pass of the NSX.
While in the pits the Acura NSX guy walks over with his wife/girlfriend and
asks what I have in my car? I say a four cylinder turbo. He then asks if I
have nitrous or something? I say no, just a four cylinder turbo. He then
asks how much horsepower I have. I said 320-340 or so. He then says,
"'Cause you blew past me like I was sitting still on the back straight" :)
The best part was having the whole thing on in-car camera. My brother
suggested I use two video cameras next time. One facing forward to see who
I'm about to pass and once facing backwards to see them disappear behind
me.
Brakes are still holding up fine, suspension is doing wonderful, and the car
held up fine running 110 miles total spread over three sessions at 20-21 psi
on 112 octane race fuel. I think I averaged a little less than 10 miles per
gallon during those sessions.
I'll bring the in-car video tape along with some other Road Atlanta footage
to the Shootout. Thanks Rick and Robert for coming out to the event.
Take care,
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 10:06:47 -0600
From: Mark_P._McNamara@mailhost.bridge.com (Mark P. McNamara)
Subject: Galant VR4 brakes, and belts for lunch?
Message-ID: <#47>
>the balance belt has no place to go when it breaks >it is stuck under the cover. Most likely, it will want to do the
>tango with the main timing belt.
This happened to me at about 5000rpm on a test drive of a brand new
Talon back in '90, with the salesman in the car! I recommend it. You
will get one helluva deal on a car;-).
Anyhow, if anyone has done the Galant -> Eclipse brake conversion,
could you e-mail me privately? I need info on the problems encountered
for a related project involving the DSM's bastard little brother, the
Dodge Colt GT (Hey, 143hp, 4G61 engine, TD04 turbo, 7.2 sec 0-60, no
brakes). I might even want your old discs.
TTFN,
Mark McNamara
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 11:16:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Francisco Rubio <frubio@ic.sunysb.edu>
Subject: Damage to brake rotors
Message-ID: <#48>
Hey guys and gals,
I need help with a problem...
This weekend I was doing my front brakes and decided to have the rotors
turned. The problem was that the pass. side rotor was stuck on, so I
used the 8mm bolt holes to help me get the rotor off. As I was
turning one of the bolts, I noticed it wasn't moving the rotor anymore.
Instead, it was actually pulling the rotor apart- I could see the metal
by the lug nut holes coming apart in layers. Obviously, I know this isn't
good, but I was wondering if this has happened to anyone else, and if so, did
you have a brake failure or related catastrophe? Any response is
appreciated, 'cause I want to know how long I've got left with the
damaged rotor. The one good side of this situation is that it justifies
the bigger brakes I'll have to replace the old ones with. Safety first!!!
Anyway, thanks.
Franc
1990 Laser fwdt
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 11:51:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Talon for Sale..
Message-ID: <#49>
A friend in the Houston area is selling his 1995 Talon and asked me to post
it for him. I know this car personally and it is in excellent shape, never
raced and completely stock. Anyone interested may email him directly. Thanks
for the bandwidth. Here are the details:
1995 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD, loaded, black, under 24,000 miles, full warranty,
ABS,Leather, Infinity stereo, power everything, alarm, sunroof, rare vented
rear brakes, $18,500 or best offer Phone Jim Park at 281-483-1168 or email
jim.park@jsc.nasa.gov
Brian Hood
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 11:23:15 -0600
From: "Richard Helm" <rixtoy@thor.net>
Subject: (18) Help!..IRC..Various
Message-ID: <#50>
[RTP]
I have encountered some difficulty trying to change my o2 sensor this past
weekend on my 90 1.8l. (Note: the motor is a 91 1.8 w/ 55k on it.) Sorry
for all the non-technical jargon, but I'm a salesman not a mechanic.
Symtoms:
1.Sensor appears to be cheap after-market (non-DSM) type with only 1 white
wire going dircetly to the sensor.Also, harness plug only has 1
pole on the plug.This leads me to believe the factory 2 pole plug has
been removed (I got lucky and found a replacement 2 pole plug.)
2.If the sensor is aftermarket, it looks like the harness was grafted in
near the air intake.The wire coming out of the factory harness
going to the plug has the white wire wrapped in shielding,
with the shielding trimmed back aprox. 2" from the plug.
Anyone have a clue?
3.I can't the f@#$ing sensor to come out! I bought a 7/8" slotted socket
which fits the factory sensor perfectly, but only winnows around on the old
one. I also bought a 22mm crows foot socket which fits perfectly, but the
damned thing won't budge. I heated the engine, sprayed some WD-40 on it,
but still no luck...What are my options?
______
I've also been having problems getting on to IRC. I think it might be a
problem w/ my ISP, but I can get on to other Net's (EF, DAL, Undernet,etc)
without a problem...
Is there an alternate type of server or address I can use to get access?
_____
Finally, a couple of weeks ago, someone posted they had a modified air can
they wanted to trade for a non-modified one...If yours is for a 1.8 or a
2.0 NT, I would be interested in trading.
richard
90 Ecplise tag RIX TOY
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 13:12:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Archeracin@aol.com
Subject: jon roberts
Message-ID: <#51>
well here we go jon wanted some questions answeredabout the 30.000 system
used in our cars <WHICH CONTROLS THE ENTIRE CAR NOT JUST THE FUEL
SYSTEM>
this system was designed by comptech machine and EFI corp. it was designed
to give max performance at all times with the ability to change it at any
time we would like..remember there is not one single piece of factory wiring
or computer in these cars. it is totaly run off our system. which once again
... controls ,boost,fuel,map,mat,spark,timing,air fuel ratio,fuel
pressure,boost solenoids ect..
now for his ten questions he wanted answered..
# 1he says all the people with "race cars" on this list would love to
here what the guts of our system is..well 99% of the people on this list
could and probably do drive there cars every day these cars would not make it
on the street they are made to run wide open for the 1hr races we run with
them. the system was put in the cars for reliability so we could rid of alot
of other pieces like stock computer,air mass,ect
when your in a factory deal you can not afford to brake because you didnt
have thbest parts on the cars. no money can be spared this deal to run 3 cars
for 1 year costs between $800.000 and 1 million to run these cars and win
championships
with haveing 8 straight championships it shows we only use the best stuff on
our cars..
#2why a garrett instead of a 16g or 20g ??
because once again we were looking at the breaking factor that we can not
afford to have. and also it was kinda political a little bit to because the
2nd gen cars come with garrett turbos they wanted to be a sponsor of ours. so
we said what do you have for us . which was a garrett part #465919 ceramic
turbo which is also ball bearing for faster spool up my cost on this turbo is
$4580.00 ea and they have to be rebuilt every
16 hours because of the ceramic which costs us between 1500.00 and 2000
every
time they get rebuilt.. but in 3 years we only lost 2 turbos and that was
from blown engines..
#3 what kind of BOV ? if stock do you crush it??
we do not use a BOV because once again reliability its 1 more piece that can
break or not work..its probably a little harder on the turbos but garrett
said it was no problem..
#3 what kind of fuel pump do you use ??
we use 2 in tank bosch pumps part #gfp216 and gfp214 the reason for 2 is one
pump is mounted inside a box in the cell that aholds 2 gallons of fuel if the
cell happened to run dry all the driver has to do is flick a switch to turn
the pump on sometimes it gets
down to just enough to finish the race but once again we cant afford to loose
a championship because we ran out of gas..
#4 what kind of injectors do you use ??
the same hks 550cc ones that you all use..
#5 what kind of intercooler do you use ??
the front of these cars were cut off at the radiator saddle when we built
them so we could make our own front end set up for our intercooler & radiator
system the intercooler was built in house by our fabricator whick is 7 x 7 x
34 it is very big but with the system we are using we had to get cooler air
charge temps and this cooler did the job.but remember this car was cut off at
the saddle to fit this < not for a street car >
#6 what springs and struts do you use ??
we use bilstein shocks which are rebound adjustable in 5 different settings
and are fit with coil over collars for the eibach springs which are 2 1/2 id
x 8 in tall and they also usually get changed at every different track
depending if the driver likes the set up we give him..
#7what sway bars ??
the cars were fit with custom fit bars frt and rear made by are team for
racing only with different wall sizes such as .049 wall .065,.095,.120,.150
with all the different tracks drivers like it a little more tight at some
theothers
#8 do you use a evc??
like i have explained it is controled by the computer system !!
#9 where do you place your air filter and why ??
well.. doing alot of testing in the wind tunnel we found the highest pressure
spot was at the bottom of the windshield at the back of the hood.. so once
again we came home and cut a big portion of the fire wall out to fit the cars
with a cowl induction system which has turned out to be a big difference as
far as air flow goes because the turbo has a 5in inlet it likes alot of air..
#10 ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO CALL ME AT 1 218 727 4806
thank you all very much
john archer
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 12:24:01 -0600 (CST)
From: Hiren <h-thakar@students.uiuc.edu>
Subject: tires for awd [1G, GVR4, AWD]
Message-ID: <#52>
It's time to change my tires, and I was hoping someone had some suggestions.
*The car now has 81k ('1991 Galant VR4)
*I live in Chicago, so snow and cold is a factor (need to be m+s)
*I have (stock) 15" alloy wheels
*I frequent 100+ mph, so I want V-rated
*I would like to fatten the tires up to 205/60/15 or (205/55/15 if need be)
*I don't car about road noise or comfort
Any recommendations (from any AWD DSM owner)?
[RTP]
Currently I'm running on Turanza EL50's (195/60/15 H-rated), good touring
tires, but I feel I need a little more performace.
I'm leaning towards Comp T/A VR4 (not just for the name, although that is
kind of interesting) - I remember an article in C&D that said they were
good for AWD cars.
Thanks.
~Hiren Thakar
'91 Galant VR4 #627
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 13:55:15 -0500
From: "Frank Mowry" <fmowry@ngs.noaa.gov>
Subject: [1G] 4 bolt rear end
Message-ID: <#53>
I decided since I'm getting serious mods done to my car right now, I might
as well start the quest for a 4 bolt rear end, seeing as how everyone is
having trouble finding them. The first place I called out of the yellow
pages had one. Problem is it was out of an automatic. They wanted $850
for the differential and axles. There is a sticker on the differential
that indicates if it is limited slip (I thought all rears had LSD?). This
sticker also indicates the gear ratios. If my memory serves me correctly,
the auto has a 3.305 vs a 5 speed with 3.545. I talked to Sean at Extreme
and he contacted Mitsubishi to see if it is possible to just buy the gears
and swap them out. They said yes. Sean should be trying it this week.
Anyway, I went back to the parts recycler because they didn't include the
spindles which attach to the ends of the axles. He got on the phone and he
found another guy with a 4 bolt rear end out of a '92 Laser 5spd. I got
the guys number and called him. He sold me the whole rear end, from disk
to disk including the rear suspension for $650. So now I've got 2 4-bolt
rears. One for my car and one for Sean's Galant. One phone call and one
trip to the recycler netted me two hard to find rears.
So the things I learned are:
1) Try other places besides White's and MAP. Many of the recylcers in my
area, Baltimore-Washington DC have a parts network. They are all connected
via an open-air phone line (maybe a CB channel). The guy will pick up the
phone and say, "rear end, 92-94 Eclipse/Talon AWD". Then all the other
recylcers in the area will check their inventories and call him back if
they have one. I went to a place in Columbia MD but the second rear end I
got was from a junk yard in Northern VA, about 60 miles away.
2) Make sure it is from a 5-spd if you have the choice. I'll keep the list
posted on the results of Sean swapping in the 5-spd gears into the auto
rear-end.
3) Make sure the spindles are included. On the end of the axles there is
the plate with the 4 bolt holes. This end piece bolts up to the spindle,
which attaches to the back of the wheel hub. I think these cost $58/each
at the dealer.
Frank Mowry
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 11:19:50 -0800
Subject: Tons o'parts for sale!
Message-ID: <#54>
Paul now has almost 100k miles on his Talon and he's getting a bit bored
of it. He never got the chance to build up his car because he took all
of my parts when I sold my car, so he really didn't get a chance to enjoy
the upgrade path. Also, ever since the theft attempt, he hasn't been
happy driving it. Imagine seeing someone driving your car while someone
else is ramming it! Now, he wants a change and he's heading in the same
direction I did, so . . .
Well, it's true. The paperwork has been started today and Paul will
not be contesting E/SP this year. If everything goes like clockwork,
Paul should have his hands on a 944 Turbo S within 30 days. If things
don't work out right, then he might return to haunt E/SP :)
Here is an opportunity to purchase some really killer parts that took a long
time to develop. The following parts are now offered for sale:
Mitsubishi TD05-16G turbocharger with ported 6cm housing.
This unit was purchased from Dave @ Buschur Racing only 100km (60 miles!)
ago. The compressor side is completely new <100km, and the
exhaust side has been around for a while, but there are no exhaust
leaks or external cracks. There may be internal cracks, but that's
normal for an exhaust housing on a turbocharger. With the right
equipment, this turbo puts out 350hp at the flywheel. The car ran
12.70 @ 107mph on Pump Gas at the track.
$400.00 (C$536.00)
TSW Blade 17x7.5" wheels with (4) 215/45R17 Dunlop SP8000 tires.
The wheels are in pretty good condition. One wheel may have a small
dent from the theft attempt. The wheels seem to be balanced fine
and seem to hold air, but I do feel that one wheel may be damaged
from that incident and the price shows this feeling. This should be
easily fixed by a decent shop.
One wheel also has a slight curb scratch.
$750.00 (C$1000.00) w/tires
(4) AKT Logic race wheels 16x8" 5x114.3 bolt pattern and +35mm offset
These are litrally brand new wheels, barely used. These were used
on my 92 AWD for auto-x use only, never been on the road before!
These are very clean, very light and very durable. This is the
third set I had purchased because I liked them so much! Works
perfect with 245/45R16 tires.
$600.00 (C$804.00) for all four (six-star design)
These wheels were used as my track wheels on my AWD Talon. They are
quite well worn in, or in other words, they are not as new as they
used to be. They are perfectly round though and balance perfectly,
but a re-finish would do wonders for their looks. I'm extremely
picky though so they are probably just fine for most people. Works
perfect with 225/50R16 tires.
$260.00 (C$350.00) for all two (six-star design)
These wheels were used as my track wheels on my AWD Talon. They are
in better condition than the 16x7 wheels because I bought them
recently, but not as good as the 16x8 set above. They are perfectly
round though and balance perfectly. Works perfect with 245/45R16 tires.
$300.00 (C$402.00) for all tow (six-star design)
Ported manifold from a 1995 Talon AWD. These fit the 89-94 models also.
The manifold provides the same horsepower as a header does without
the ridiculous cost. This unit are extremely durable and flows much
better than the stock manifold or even a ported stock manifold. The
units have been known to provide 1.5-2mph in the 1/4 equating to
15-20hp! This unit was purchased from Dave @ Buschur Racing and
was ported by him. The unit is in good working order with no
external cracks or leaks. There may be internal cracks, but that is
normal with a hot turbine wheel nearby. I would prefer to sell this
with the turbocharger as they are bolted together, but can seperate
them if need be.
$200.00 (C$280.00)
Alamo/Spearco side mount upgrade intercooler with larger inlet and outlet
pipes. This unit is awesome! It increases low end torque, top end
power and cuts down on heat soak on long high boost stretches. Fits
where the stock unit currently is and requires very small adjustments
to the inner wheel fender (the black plastic thing with the vents
has to put a small cut in it, that's all). I can provide the correct
piping to make this all work with the larger inlets and all. You
may prefer to make your own piping for the lower IC pipe because
ours is quite ugly.
$400.00 (C$536.00)
Buschur Racing upper intercooler pipe. 2.25" polished stainless steel
intercooler pipe with excellent fittings. This unit is beautiful,
the best available. Increases low end torque and top end power.
Reduces heat soak that the stock rubber pipes pick up. Includes a
95 Talon throttle body elbow to provide even more flow than most
IC pipe upgrades.
$200.00 (C$280.00)
HKS VPC w/D138 chip. This is the heart of any Talon upgrade. The VPC
converts the MAS system to a speed density system opening up the
intake significantly. The D138 is the smoothest idling, best all
around chip. It's designed to work with stock injectors and a
Dodge Stealth VR4TT fuel pump installed (this unit is a bolt in and
is available from Buschur Racing for around US$225). With this unit,
you move from 102mph up to 106-107mph in the 1/4! Has adjustment
for boost mixture, idle mixture and throttle/decay.
$550.00 (C$737.00) (Paid C$1700 for it!)
550cc injectors with 550cc chip for VPC. These units will allow you to
further upgrade the car to reach 115mph in the 1/4 with the right
turbocharger (TD05/06-20G). Direct bolt on.
$400.00 (C$536.00)
C's short throw shift kit. Comes complete with base too so mounting is
easy, just unbolt four bolts, bolt in new shifter. Cuts throws
significantly and reduces vibrations. Do the hard bushing thing
at this time too for ultimate shifting.
$250.00 (C$335.00)
Dodge Stealth 2WD brake calipers (dual piston) with Porterfield rotors,
Porterfield R4-S pads and Porterfield R4 pads! The rotors are close
to new. I replaced them right before I sold the car, so they are
not even broken in. The R4-S pads have a bit of life left, the R4
pads are still in the box. Includes everything you need to convert
the front brakes to something that can handle the power and with
the porterfield rotors up front and the pads all around, you won't
have any fade either!
$400.00 (C$536.00) including 2 rotors, 2 calipers, 8 pads.
RalliArt/GAB suspension. You will never see this ever come up for sale
again . . . because they are custom made! The front struts are 1"
shorter than the factory struts as well as being significantly better
damped. The front height adjustable perch no longer moves, probably
due to it being set there for a while now. You could thread on a new
2.5" collar and cut the old one off if you want adjustment, but they
are set at the perfect height right now where they are. The front
struts will require the use of camber plates (available from Carrera
for US$269) or some fabrication of the top strut mount. They are
4-level adjustable. 2 works the best up front. The front suspension
comes with Eibach ERS race springs at 700lbs/in. This provides a ~2.5
CPS rate. The car rolls nicely up front and is smooth on the roard.
The rear suspension comprises of GAB shocks modified by Archer Racing
to make them height adjustable. These perches still work :) and the
shocks are 8-level adjustable. You won't go higher than 2 unless you've
got kidney braces. The rears come with Eibach ERS race springs set at
500lbs/in. If driven on the street frequently, I would recommend
reducing the rate to 350lbs/in and adjust the perch appropriately. The
CPS is ~3.0 with 500lbs/in and should be (from memory) around ~2.6
with 350lbs/in. With the 500lbs/in, the back did not roll at all.
These require no fabrication or anything, just bolt in and they work.
You'll have a lot of camber though, but it works really well.
$2000 (C$2800.00) (Paid over C$6000 for it! not including R&D [another
3-4k])
GAB rear strut tower brace. Really doesn't do anything to a solid car,
but looks really cool in the hatch.
$150.00 (C$201.00)
3" pressbent exhaust (mild steel) with 2.5" Dynomax muffler. Also comes
with 2.5" downpipe from the manifold down. Has no provision for
catalytic convertor. Looks great from behind with the big spaghetti
3" piping underneath and the 4" stainless tip on the back. I
feel this unit has the most awesome sound you can get out of an
exhaust. It's not as loud as a full 3", but not as quiet as an
HKS 2.25" exhaust. Produces noticeable power increase over stock
exhaust. If everything else is stock, the boost will come up to 13psi
with this unit. The stock computer will handle the fuel, no need to
worry. This is the exhaust we ran 12.7 on.
$186.00 (C$250.00) (we'll only sell this to someone locally or NW region
of US)
(2) Centerforce dual friction clutches. Hey, we used to drag race okay!
We still have two units left brand new, in box. These are the
dual friction units good for mid 11's and over 400hp. Buschur uses
one on his 11.09 Talon.
$400.00ea (C$536.00)ea
(4) Goodyear Eagle GSC-S tires in 225/50R16 size. These still have a bit
of holographic tread left on them. These were used for four drag race
passes, no road use or road race use.
$300.00 (C$400.00) for all four (we'll only sell to someone locally or
in NW US)
Big radiator for 89-94 Talon turbo with no A/C. You can make it A/C
compatible by adding another fan. The single one on there has
trouble coping with the A/C load at idle. My car never overheated since
putting this unit on. It's a four layer huge rad with all mounting
hardware. You will have to tap into the fan switch, etc. It has
it's own temp sensor and will run for 10 seconds after the car shuts
off to prevent heat soak in the turbocharger and engine.
$400.00 (C$536.00) (paid over C$1000 just a few months back!)
Well, that does it. I will be taking the emails on a first come, first
sold basis. I will look at the time stamp and see who sent it first.
They will get priority. I will let everyone who sent me an email know
tommorow on what number they are. If the people before them back out,
I will notify you that you will be able to purchase the item. It's
the fair way of doing it, I feel. The prices are set to sell so I expect
everything to be gone within 2 days. When I sold the parts off my car
last time, C$6000 of parts sold in 2 hours!!!
All prices in open text are US dollars, all prices in brackets are Canadian
dollars.
And don't worry guys, I'll still be around to answer as many DSM questions
as I can and my friendship with people like Dave will continue on. Heck,
we're all going autocrossing on Feb 16 in NW region of US with all the DSM
guys.
Thanks,
Farzaan (fkassam@direct.ca)
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 12:42:22 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Greddy Rebic III?
Message-ID: <#55>
Hello,
Just want to know does Greddy Rebic III worth to get it. Anyone in the
list using one and wants to give comments?
Thanks.
~Benny '95 GS-T
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 12:00:08 -0800
Precedence: list
[Okay, folks, to aid in the planning of Caravan '97 (aka DSMs
across America (aka the trip to David's house (aka driving
Miss Leadfoot (aka the great ShootOut Adventure (aka I'd
rather be Normal than in Spring Hill))))), I have
created a mailing list. caravan@dsm.org. You can sign up
for it similar to the way you signed up for this list. Mail
the single word "subscribe" without the quotes (in the body
of a message) to caravan-request@dsm.org. Have fun!
-talon mgr]
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) Damon Root
4 sale
2) Sloclone
Doug's Dynopower is almost ready to go.
3) Arman Nikzad
A SAD Day for a Talon Owner to be
4) Gary Clouse
Timing-belt [1G] tools and history
5) tony wilhelm
Tour 97
6) Tom Stangl
My engine rebuild - Long!
7) Tom Stangl
Custom wheel work?
8) Dennis_Ogino
[2G][T] Help!! Car locked up
10) speedrcr
HoDT ad in Turbo or SCC magazine?
11) Eric Typpo
Possible autox/track day at the Shootout
12) dixon
First time at the Drags!!!
13) Kevan Riley
Some Drag racing basics
14) Name Withheld Upon R Corrado Question
15) Tom Stangl
[1G, T] 95 manifold?
16) The4Bangr
event rules, apps and info
17) The4Bangr
parts for sale
18) Pete
t-shirt for talon funny car guy
19) ajk10
[1G T AWD] FOR SALE - 93
20) BOB BLACK
Long rambling post, mostly [2G,T]
21) AV8R
91 TSi For Sale
22) The4Bangr
transfer case for sale
23) paul lyons
dynomax rubbing 1g,t,awd
24) gselph
Manifold for sale / alternator belt adjustment
25) Michael Kline
Re: Eight second Talon, Shootout
26) jim_jordan
Klunking noise = new tranny??? [2G, T, AT]
27) Frank Williamson
FS: 91 Talon TSi AWD
28) jim_jordan
Klunking noise = new tranny??? [2G, T, AT]
29) Robert Arrowood
Talon Engine Size
30) WHITTLESEY, BRAD ABB VPC for sale
32) Nat Sombat KC7DNX,HS Reply mail
33) gselph
Upgraded PS pump / for sale / event dates
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
format)
May 15, 1997 - 1st ANNUAL DIAMOND STAR TOUR 9:00am at the DSM factory,
Normal, IL. Email tony@wilhelm.mdn.com for info
Raceway Park,
Norwalk, Ohio. Don't bug DaveB until he gets all the details worked out
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 16:20:30 -0500
Subject: 4 sale
Message-ID: <#1>
Have some things that I wish to get rid of:
~stainless Archer header with reinforced welds $350
~new Brembo replacement rotors (4) for 90-92 AWD cars $120
~shortened front strut bodies (2) for Koni inserts $80
All prices include shipping as well.
thanx,
Damon Root
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 16:15:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Doug's Dynopower is almost ready to go.
Message-ID: <#2>
Hi all to those who know me, and to those who most likely meet me in the year
to come.
My name is Douglas Derby, reside in Michigan. Currently have two DS's.
A 90 Laser FWD, ( beater, actually puts an a$$ whoopin' on most anything.)
((Right Dave!)) And a 95 GSX. Maybe some of you have seen my name on
the quarter-mile list.
A year ago, I had a 93 AWD Talon and somehow ran
two 11 sec runs back to back at Norwalk, on pump gas no less. It was my
everyday college car, driver. Sold the car and it is in Aruba now.
Currently have the proported? fastest 2nd gen. DS. That we know of?
12.27 at 112. It's got a lot left in it. Has PMS, yes, the unit. May
or may not use it this year.
The tuning I have done on it has made a profound difference in drivability.
Only ran it at the track once. First run actually using the settings
netted a near 2 mph gain. From 108 tp 109.8. Then it went to 112 by giving
the engine even more timing and pulling the pulsewidth back on the injectors.
Plans for the car this year, after trying three turbos and intercoolers
last year! Minor changes and tuning to get it into the 11.80 at 115 range,
at a minimum. Possibly use this Haltech or DFI system. Time will tell.
The main focus of my business is on the 2nd GEN., primarily engine
performance. My feeling is they are "Excellent" cars suspension wise out of
the box. All I want to say about that. Yes, my suspension is stock.
1.65-1.72 60 ft's also.
Going to be offering basic 12 sec. packages for these cars in particular.
Eliminating much of the "hoopula" out there about what works and what
doesn't. Everyone is free to decide but we know these packages work very
well. And are everyday streetable.
Reasonable prices also. As with anything in life, you get what you pay for.
Speed costs, how fast do you wanna go? Actually, I am very affordable.
Not into the cut throat tactics or bashing. Just want to help people who
appreciate others efforts.
My Laser is a riot. Hope to have it also at the Shootout this year along
with the GSX.
Maybe there will be a new "FWD King" crowned, or condemned, whatever the
case
may be. Anyway. It's a lot of fun. " A real handful?"
With any amount of traction, "My wheels are spinning, I know not what to
do?" , it may just run mid to low 12's by the year end. At any rate. It's
a rush, gets incredible gas mileage. AND WILL BE PUT ON THE DYNO within
the
next month, hopefully.
Any wagers or guesses on the power output. I'm guessing more than the
Turbo
Mag. car.
As for the new business. It will be my part time job for now. All calls
will be returned.
As long as a name, time and number are left with me, or the machine.
Credit card orders should be possible within a few weeks or so, if not
sooner. So for now, only checks and money orders.
MY WEB PAGE is done, we just have to find a domain to store it with.
It pretty much explains everything that this post just touched upon.
A side note. I talked to Michael Ferrara a year ago. My Talon was to be in
Turbo Mag., I sent in many pictures, timeslips, the article. Talked to
Michael three different times. My name was even printed in the mag in the
Porject Talon acrticle, twice I think.
But it didn't make the grade. Engine wasn't "pretty enough." Well blow me
down!
She ran though. A picture of her launching on an 11 sec pass in on my web
page, check it!
My e-mail address for the business is DDynopower@aol.com
Phone and fax number is (810) 628-6005.
Will post again when the page is up and going. Thanks, safe boosting!
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 97 16:16:33 EST
Subject: A SAD Day for a Talon Owner to be
Message-ID: <#3>
Hi All,
Went to pickup my 1995 Eagle Talon on Sat. from
a delear, we had all the numbers worked out.
But upon second inspection i foind out they have removed
the CD-Changer unit from the trunk.
So I asked for it. guess what. well it's gonna cost
me $500 dollars to have one installed. But it had one.
No, was not mentioned as a feature on their list.
Sure enough it was not. it said prem. Sound System only.
Now I am totally pissed. JUST SAID NO, AND WALKED AWAY.
Now feel kind of stupid, since I think I walked away
from a good car and a good deal, but can not stand these
A$$ H@##. Sorry had to vent
Arman
Poorman w/o a Talon
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 15:52:46 -0600
Subject: Timing-belt [1G] tools and history
Message-ID: <#4>
The special tools listed in the repair manuals for changing the timing belt
on 1st Gen DSMs are helpful but not necessary. You can get by with a
couple of medium C- clamps. As I recall, one ot the special tools holds the
tensioner pin in place while you bolthe tensioner down and the other is a
bolt-on jig the positions the tensioner until you bolt teh tensioner down.
The tools would definitly simplify the work but you can get by without
them.
Some one recently posted a somewhat inaccurate history about the
design on rear wheel drive cars and drum brakes. A little clarification is
needed.
Early cars were built using a chassis/drivetrain/body construction. These
were seperate units and quite often were interchangeable. In the early
1930's, due the the fact that engines were built of cast iron and were
quite massive the front engin placement became preferred because it
made the transmission linkages shorter and less prone to binding and
other problems. Rear wheel drive was used because the relative
inflexability of the drive train (CV joints had not been invented, the old
U-joints were the only thing available) demanded the driven wheels be a
good distance from the tranny. As better alloys were developed and
applied to commercially available vehicles things changed. Most of the
changes were used to reduce the cost of manufacturing. The first
change was the unibody in which the chassis was incorporated into the
body of the car. Disk brakes were the next major change. ( Eary disk
brake designs didn't work well when the got wet. Changes in the caliper
and pad design created "Self-wiping" brakes that alleviated the wet
braking problem. Until then drum brakes were used on the rear wheels
since the drums usually kept the water out.
When new cv joints were developed the front wheel started becoming
available. Since most people were used to the front engine rear drive
set-up, they thought front whee drive was really weird and didn't want it.
The auto makers were also slow to change, until they realized how much
less it cost to manufacture. FWD allow the entire drivetrain to be
assembled indepently ot the coach (body and suspension) and allow the
drive line to be mated to the body late in the assembly. This allow the
assembly to be prebuilt at the drive train plant and more or less inserted
into the car thus reducing the time and labor needed for final assembly.
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 17:10:44 +0500
Subject: Tour 97
Message-ID: <#5>
Here's the deal on the tour of the manufacturing facility in Normal, IL:
they have 2 times available: 9:00 AM and 1:30 PM
(I reserved the 9:00 one let me know if this will cause a problem)
The tour lasts approx 1:30 + a Q&A session
They have a maximum of 100 people per tour
(I have 20 people signed up that's 40 people including co-pilots)
So if you are interested in going let me know. ASAP
For those of you flying to the shootout, fly into Peoria thurs
morning and get a ride from another member driving to the tour.
Ok everyone let me know as soon as possible
alright I did my part I arranged the tour, now who is gonna get
speedvision to cover the shootout ??
Tony Wilhelm aka gsx96
96 Eclipse GSX (for daytime use only)
Tour97 Manager
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 14:18:08 -0800
Subject: My engine rebuild - Long!
Message-ID: <#6>
I realized that I have not updated the Digest on my work on my car.
While IRCers knew almost hourly what what going right/wrong, the Digest
was in the dark.
Many of the newest VFAQs have come about due to a major overhaul (or
minor rebuild, whichever you want to call it) of my engine, brought
about by a few BONEHEADED moves of mine. The engine did NOT destruct
because of racing. At BOI in November, I was having MASSIVE fuelcut
problems in a hotel parking lot. I figured it had to do with the
altitude (wrong), or my newly crushed BOV (wrong). After just about
snapping my neck a few dozen times, and turning the MAF screw ALL the
way out (previously I could run 25psi on avgas with it turned out
halfway with NO fuelcut), I realized my fuelcut was from HAVING TOO
LITTLE FUEL IN THE TANK. Adding 5 gal of avgas fixed that. However,
think about that for a second. What I was getting was NON-ECU induced
fuelcut - in other words, the car was running out of fuel as the gas
sloshed to the rear, **but the ECU didn't know it**. So I was basically
repeatedly pounding my engine with superlean conditions. Not good.
Then I had boost probs that day and the next day at the track, and
disconnected the bleeder tubing during testing - note, I disconnected
it, I did NOT bypass it. Further details are at
http://www.best.com/~talonts/mods/piston.html.
Well, anyways, from the pics at the URL above, you see I TORCHED my
piston. It took me SIX weekends, and 4 weekday nights near the end, to
slowly tear it down, analyze the prob, and fix it. I ended up replacing
the water pump, timing belt tensioner, balance belt tensioner, and
timing belt pulleys for safety while I was replacing the timing and
balance belts. I also replaced ALL belts. I replaced the piston, and
re-ringed all 4 pistons and honed the block. Replaced the rods
bearings while the pistons were out (only the bearings on piston #1 were
really worn). Replaced the head gasket and installed head studs.
Replaced the stock exhaust manifold with a 95 I ported myself, when I
found out the stock one was cracked. Ported the turbo myself while it
was out. Pulled the transfer case and sealed the yoke while it was off,
and redid all drivetrain fluids.
It has been running for about 450 miles, and it seems to run DAMN
strong, a LOT stronger than it used to, but the 95 manifold, porting,
2.5" downpipe in place of stock, and HKS upper IC pipe in place of stock
DEFINITELY has something to do with that too.
I would like to thank Dave Buschur Bill Lawrence, John Archer, Eric
Typpo, and Ray Parks at MDSOG for a LOT of remote help on what to look
for, how to fix it, etc. I'd like to thank Ray for saving me a LOT of
money on dealer parts, and giving me the leverage to negotiate a decent
discount with my local dealer when I needed parts quicker than Ray could
get them to me. I'm sure I forgot some people, so thanks to anyone else
who helped out, especially the IRC guys, our "online support" group, for
giving me a place to vent every once in a while ;-)
IRC - BAD_Tom, BADisAWAY, BADisVFAQing,.....many others
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 14:33:34 -0800
Subject: Custom wheel work?
Message-ID: <#7>
One of my future plans includes removing the STOCK center from a set of
Talon rims, and having them welded onto a lighter 16x7.5" rim section
(also having the center lug mounting pad extended to get the offset
right). That will let me run 245/45s, and be STEALTH about it. I can
also request using higher strength rim material, as we all know the
stock rims are tinfoil. Amazing how heavy such a flimsy rim can be.
I'm not too worried about how stock it is - if it voids me for SCCA, or
pushes me into a category with the big boys (at which point it's not
worth trying), no big deal. I am more interested in having a stealth
street/strip car. While wider tires will slow me down from higher
rotational mass, they will actually speed me UP from increased traction
(or slow me down infinitely by torching my clutch).
So - anyone know of any CA companies that can do such a rim conversion?
I know of an EAST coast shop (Ye Old Wheel Shoppe, or something like
that), but would rather go see what kind of work they do. If no CA
companies, any nearer to the west coast, so shipping is less?
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 15:34:48 -0700
From: Dennis_Ogino@amat.com
Subject: [2G][T] Help!! Car locked up
Message-ID: <#8>
Hello all,
I haven't submitted a message for a long time but what happened to me on
Saturday really stumped me and I hope someone can help.
I was driving home Saturday night and as I was coming out of a turn, my car
abruptly skidded to a stop (it was raining all day). I have a 92 Tsi AWD,
so my first thought was either the rear end or transmission broke. I
looked underneath the car and nothing was leaking or appeared out of the
ordinary. I then tried putting the car in gear and moving, but the car
would rock forward but would not move forward. I could not push the car to
the side of the road in neutral so I decided to try moving the car again I
could get the car to move but as soon as I let off the gas, the car would
stop as if the brakes were on. The closest possible description I could
give would be like it felt like I was "staging."
Other things I checked:
1. Parking brake - engaged/disengaged a few times w/no change
2. Brake fluid - level OK, used Motul
3. Removed ABS fuse - no change
4. Reset computer - no change
I left the car at a friends shop but now he tells me that the car is
rolling fine now so we're pretty baffled. Since it's rolling fine now, I'm
guessing that it was rain related and caused the rear calipers to lock and
whatever that was affected dried and is ok but I'm afraid of driving the
car again as it might lock up on me again so if anyone has any ideas please
e-mail me at dennis_ogino@amat.com.
Thanks,
Dennis
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 17:58:26 -0600
Subject: HoDT ad in Turbo or SCC magazine?
Message-ID: <#10>
Hey guys...here's a thought.....
Wanna leave the Honda people smoldering? How bout we take a collection
and create a small House of Duct Tape ad for the magazines? Think we
can get it in there? Anyone?.... It would be an excellent April
Fools joke...
Just my $.02 worth
Steve Reiter
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 21:25:05 -0600 (CST)
From: Eric Typpo <etyppo@Menudo.UH.EDU>
Subject: Possible autox/track day at the Shootout
Message-ID: <#11>
Jon Bennett and I have been discussing the possibility of trying to
organize either a track day or autocross for DSMs in conjunction with the
Shootout. The event would take place on Sunday, May 18th. The track
event would consist of a "driving school" (i.e. no racing and no times
given) at Nelson Ledges, while the autocross is a normal SCCA autocross that
will occur whether DSM people attend or not. I'd like to get a feel for how
much interest there is for either option. Reply directly to me.
Thanks,
Eric Typpo
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 09:25:07 -0800
From: dixon <wu@tab.com>
Subject: First time at the Drags!!!
Message-ID: <#12>
I finally had the chance to take my 1991 Talon TSI to the tracks. I
heard the track at Alamo Dragway in San Antonio is a very slow track and
was a little disappointed. After racing a 5.0 I was not sure how fast
my car was, I raced the 5.0 and I was ahead until 100 mph.. then he
passed me going about 15-20 mph faster... I was shocked and
disappointed since this was my first test to see how fast my car was.
After talking to Capital High Speed in San Antonio they said I would
probably run mid 14's. I have a K&N, fuel pump, 2.5 cat back, bypass,
and Grainger boost control. I am also running 18psi with a stock turbo.
I mentioned that I had about the same mods that Marc had and they said I
would probably run mid 14's. I pointed out the article about Marc's
12.57 and they said
that they run faster times up in Ohio. I said 2 seconds faster?
Anyway, I am not trying to take any sides, I am just very happy on my
car's performance. Even the guy I went with who owned a 1972 Corvette
with 383 block, he said it felt like a mid 14 second car. Long story
short, my 60ft times were bad. My best were 2.009 but.... I ran 13.66
at 100.57. I was expecting at best low 14's . I did run 105 race fuel
but did not mess with the boost, I did this so I would not run lean and
I also did not mess with the boost so I could see how fast my car was
when I raced the 5.0. To the guys at Capital High Speed, I just stopped
by to get some syncroshift, I did not even know that you were located in
S.A. Last time I was in S.A. it was just Alamo Autosport. That's why I
didn't mention my mods were from Dave B. I just did not want to get in
a pissing match. By the way I did get all my mods from David Busher
including the 95 ported manifold. The porting did not look great but I
guess by my times it works well enough. These may not be the quickest
times but I am pleased. Capital High Speeds was pretty cool and had
some good advice. One of the reason I bought my mods from David B. is
because he has a car that is proven to run low ets. I just have one
question....
(LOL) CAN'T WE ALL JUST GET ALONG?
Dixon Wu
1991 slightly modified Talon TSI
in the 13's( in the 12's if I can get my 60ft down)
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 22:19:01 -0600
Subject: Some Drag racing basics
Message-ID: <#13>
Greetings DSMers,
~Warnig if you are an experienced drag racer you may wish to skip this,
(or check me for correction).Like some of you I am fairly new to the strip, I've only been out a few
times. Well this months HotRod (No I don't get these regularly, but
ther is a nice series of articles on Nitrous this month) an ther is an
article on drag racing basics. Well a couple of the things seemed
intersting enought to me I though I would appreciateit if some one
posted them. So here it goes. Some of this is closely quoted, so give
credit to H.R.
"The most common misconception is that the elapsed time (ET) clock
starts when the green light comes on. In fact, the clock doesn't begin
until you leave teh starting line." HotRod (c)
Two type of trees. Sportsmans tree, and Pro tree. The most common one
most of us will be up against is the sportsman tree.
On a sportsman tree the three amber lights light in sequence from the
top in .500 sec intervals. On a pro tree all three amber lights light
at once and .400 seconds later the green.
A perfect sportsmans tree reaction is not 0.00, but .500 sec. And .400
for pro tree. A reaction quicker than this is a red light.
On bracketing. Say you dial in 14.27 and run a 14.25 with a .590
reaction, against a guy dialed in at 13.00 who runs a 13.05 with a .520
reaction. His reaction was .07 quicker than yours, but his e.t.was .05
slower than his dial-in, while you were .02 under yours. Who wins? He
does. Even though you were closer to your dial-in (your slower reaction
didn't effect your e.t.) he will have just beat you to the finish line
by .02 sec, and there by beaten you (period).
I hope the above is not confusing. I reworded it in an atempt to make
it more concise and hopefully not at the expence of clearity. I had to
read over that section of the article several times to feel as though I
had it right. Provided all this is correct I hope it helps clear up a
couple of confusing points. Atleast they were confusing to me.
kpr
`91 Red Talon AWD
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 20:52:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Name Withheld Upon Request <ucoogj00@mcl.ucsb.edu>
Subject: Corrado Question
Message-ID: <#14>
Snoopy-Boy-The VW Corrado has(had) two engines. The G60 has a turbo 4 cyl,
while the SLC has the VR-6 cyl engine. This was the faster variant. Alas
for VW fans this car was replaced by the new GTI. Which one is better is
up to those willing to drive a Volkswagon.-Jason
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 21:24:29 -0800
Subject: [1G, T] 95 manifold?
Message-ID: <#15>
> I=92ve been reading about people getting a 95 manifold and porting it for
> our 1st gen cars, but somewhere along the way I missed the explanation
> what the benefit is.
Go to http://www.best.com/~talonts/mods/exhman.html
Ok, OK, the pics aren't high detail, but they DO show why the 95 flows
better. The only mod to install one is to drill and tap the outer 2
studs holes for 10mm, which is no big deal.
Tom Stangl
***http://www.ba.dsm.org/
***Bay Area DSM Homepage
1990 Talon AWD
1992 Laser AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 00:30:24 -0500
Subject: event rules, apps and info
Message-ID: <#16>
Todd, well Mr. Day, is what I meant to say;),
Is it possible to put all the info for the shootout somewhere that everyone
can access and just hit "print" to get it? If we could do this everyone
could get the rules ahead of time along with an application and the hotel
info. I will type it all if someone can put it somewhere for me. Otherwise
I am afraid I will only be posting it once and then everyone will have to get
the info at the gate. I just can't keep up with all of this and sending
copies out to a couple hundred guys.
Let me know.
Thanks
David Buschur
[Sure, no problem. Someone want to volunteer to webify this information?
Dave, is there anything that should be in it that you haven't already
posted? I will put it up if someone will html it. -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 00:30:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: parts for sale
Message-ID: <#17>
Hi all,
A friend of mine has some parts he would like to sell. His name is Bob
Haworth and his number is 810-477-9236.
He has a 16g, clipped, minus the turbine housing with only about 3,000 miles
on it. He is asking $500 for it.
He also has a complete turbo engine with the ECU out of a '91 automatic. He
would like to get $1200 for that.
Both are decent prices. Anyone intereted call him directly. The only part I
know about is the turbo and he bought that from me.
David Buschur
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 23:54:25 -0600
Subject: t-shirt for talon funny car guy
Message-ID: <#18>
>I'm with Rob, let's give "The Eagle" a DSM shirt. Any of you Chicago
>members want to contact the United Center and send a shirt his way?
someone get me his address - next time I run shirts, I'll print one on a
tent for him. <g>
Pete
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 07:47:32 -0500
From: ajk10@chrysler.com
Subject: [1G T AWD] FOR SALE - 93
Message-ID: <#19>
Hello All,
Once again, I am posting my 93 Talon. I have found myself in a
financial pickle. Even though I don't want to, I have to part with my
fine Vehicle. Here's the specs:
1993 Talon TSi AWD:
Black Exterior
Charcoal Grey Interior
Factory Sunroof
Stock AM/FM/Cassette/E.Q./CD input
Power Windows
Power Locks
Factory installed Code Alarm
16inch wheels with newer tires (15,000miles)
Rear Defrost
Air Condition
All Wheel Drive
Turbo
5-Speed - Manual Trans
~ 58,000 miles
Asking $10,800 or Best
(I really must sell, so make an offer, the most I'll do is say "no")
Email: ajkresme@oakland.edu
or ajk10@chrysler.com
Phone: home (810) 853-0966 4:30pm or work (313) 493-3835 6:30am - 3:30pm
Drew
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 09:13:46 -0800
From: bob_black@pbsweb03.gsa.gov (BOB BLACK)
Subject: Long rambling post, mostly [2G,T]
Message-ID: <#20>
Recently, I submitted a ? on Fuel Cut vs. bad wires. I had installed
an aquarium gauge in place of the boost solenoid and it appears that I
had misadjusted this, hence getting fuel cut. I'd like to thank all
of you who offered suggestions/advice. I had been hoping to attend
this year's shoot-out, but I better spend my $ on getting a boost
gauge (I'm planning on getting an A-pillar mount and VDO gauge) and I
also want to get my windows tinted. Unfortunately, this exceeds my
current budget and therefore, I will not be able to spare the $ for
going to the shoot-out. I've been a musician for many years and I'm
actually going to sell one of my basses to be able to do these simple
upgrades - I never expected to find a group like this digest which has
fueled my interest in upgrading my car to the point that I'm actually
selling music gear to get $ for my car. Despite driving mostly in
heavy traffic, I need that burst of speed that I was getting when I
set my boost too high; now I need to recheck upgrade paths (Buschur
page) and back digests to see how to safely increase boost to a level
I'm comfortable with. I've also got a clock spring on order and the
material required to fix the WW spray leak stain (TSB 080795). I
don't know what satan will charge me for this, but I am curious to
know from anyone who has had TSB 080795 addressed, can you tell me
what they actually did?
Finally, there were recent posts from J. Allerding & M. Sevaria
(sp?) on a knock/thump when starting their cars in cold weather, I
also experience this phenomenon and am curious to know how widespread
it is and is it limited to 2nd gens, turbos, all dsms, or what; and
has anyone had this fixed? (I believe Mike said that it causes no
real harm and was related to the power steering system.)
Bob Black, '95 Talon Tsi FWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 09:23:45 -0500
From: AV8R <fay@gate.net>
Subject: 91 TSi For Sale
Message-ID: <#21>
For sale, 1991 Eagle Talon TSi FWD, 54,000 original miles. timing belt
replaced under recall, oxygen sensor replaced, seatbelt anchors, and
transmission synchros all replaced under warranty. Balance of warranty
effective until February 1998. New front tires and good rear tires, all
225/50 vr 16's, boost gauge, K&N air filter, manual boost control to
18psi, stick shift, and much more. Car is red with grey interior,
garage kept for 6 years, oil changed religiously every 2000 miles, looks
and runs great. If you are interested, e-mail me at fay@gate.net and I
will give you more details and e-mail you photos of the car.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 10:40:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: transfer case for sale
Message-ID: <#22>
Tym Switzer has been ahving a hard time getting on line and would like me to
post a part for sale. He has a 91-94 transfer case with low miles he would
like to sell. He is asking $750, probably take a reasonable offer though. I
can take the e-mails or calls for it here, I will even take a credit card for
it and just pay him.
Thanks,
David Buschur
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 09:56 CST
Subject: dynomax rubbing 1g,t,awd
Message-ID: <#23>
'Lo all
I was underneath the car yester day and I noticed the front hanger to my
dynomax exhaust had been rubbing against the driveshaft. I don't know how
since it is serveral inches away but there is a definate groove on the
hanger and the paint is gone from the shaft. Has anyone else experienced
this problem?
Paul Lyons (Pauley-Man)
90 Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 10:46:12 EST
Subject: Manifold for sale / alternator belt adjustment
Message-ID: <#24>
I have a Buschur ported 92 exhaust manifold for sale with an HKS external
wastegate mounting flange welded onto the #1 runner. I'm keeping the actual
wastegate itself to put on my Buschur ported 95 manifold.
The flange positions the external wastegate nicely so that the a/c fan
doesn't have to be removed. All you need to do is bolt on the external
wastegate and this manifold is ready to go.
This manifold has no cracks, warps, etc. Perfect condition! $200
I'll even throw in a modified heat shield cut out around the wastegate flange.
Not a work of art, but looks better than the one on Project Talon that time.
Re: Adjusting alternator belt tension
There is a 10mm bolt located along the arc of the adjustment bracket right
above the alternator. The bolt lies horizontal pointing towards the
passenger side of the car. Loosen this bolt, but don't remove completely.
Next, there is another 10mm bolt on this same flange that points towards the
back of the car, kinda pointing up at a 30 degree angle. By tightening this
bolt, you tighten the belt, by loosening this bolt, you loosen the belt.
However, this bolt is fixed and will not actually move in or out. Instead it
slides the first bolt you loosened along the arc of the mounting bracket.
I used the "it feels about right" measure to check the belt tension. If the
belt squeals, it's too loose. Tighten the first 10mm bolt (the one facing
the passenger side of the car) when done.
Nothing has to be removed to access either of these bolts. If you really
really wanted to measure the belt tension, you could remove the lower splash
shields in the driver side wheel well to get to it. The bottom half of the
belt is accessible enough to measure deflection with a ruler.
Take care,
Gary Selph
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 11:30:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Eight second Talon, Shootout
Message-ID: <#25>
>I'm with Rob, let's give "The Eagle" a DSM shirt. Any of you Chicago
>members want to contact the United Center and send a shirt his way?
That'd be nice, but he just got traded to San Jose earlier this week. How
about you Bay Area DSMers?
Dave B.:
Thanks for the hotel heads up yesterday. You just saved me a nice chunk of
change. Now I can get a boost gauge! :-)
Michael Kline
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 11:07:08
Subject: Klunking noise = new tranny??? [2G, T, AT]
Message-ID: <#26>
Hi all,
Like many folks in the digest, I was hearing a "klunking" noise
whenever my '95GST went over a bump. The consensus was that the noise
was the result of worn out control arm bushings. So, I figure I'd let
SATAN take a look at it while he/she/it fixes my brakelight problem.
Well, the dealer just called me back to say that I needed a new
tranny. He the said problem was, and I quote, "something rattling
around inside your transmission". Something?!?!? Like a broken gear
maybe?? I haven't had a single problem with the tranny since I bought
the car. It has always functioned perfectly. Personnally, I don't
think the tranny has anything to do with the problem, but who am I to
pass up a free, new tranny. They said I could drive the car normally
until the new tranny arrives in about a week. Is it me, or does this
seem a little weird? "You need a new tranny, but feel free to drive
around normally til we get one." I'm wondering if this isn't an excuse
to address another problem their not telling me about. I guess I
better check the TSBs. Anyone else have a similar experience?
One thing that bugged me about the mechanic who worked on my car. She
tells me that my brakelight is staying on because I need new brakes.
When I told her that I would take care it myself, she kind of got an
attitude, like I didn't trust her or something. For the record, the
brakes don't need replacing. But apparently she did replace the switch
and the brakelight now works normally. In short, I'm not too crazy
about this new crop of mechanics, but supposedly they are part of my
dealers "new committment to quality" in their service department. Uh,
yeah, right....
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 10:42:07 -0600
Subject: FS: 91 Talon TSi AWD
Message-ID: <#27>
For Sale:
91 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
~ 54K miles
~ White exterior
~ Gray/Black cloth interior from '93 Eclipse (exc. cond)
~ 5 Speed
~ ABS
~ Power Everything
~ No sunroof
~ All stock except K&N air filter, Hella aftermarket horns
~ All speakers upgraded to Pioneer/Premier
~ AR57 16"x8" Aluminum Wheels (5 months old)
~ Car in excellent condition, mechanically and cosmetically
~ All belts, including timing, changed in October at 50,000 miles
~ 5th Gear Synchro replaced October 1996 at 51,000 miles
~ Mobil 1 in engine, BG Synchroshift in tranny
~ New Brembo rotors and Frictiontech Pads all around (< 500 miles)
~ Selling due to the need of a bigger car
~ NADA Retail February 97 $9550
~ Asking $8500
~ Car is in Birmingham, Alabama
Frank
fw@emss.com
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Tue, 28 Jan 97 11:35:24
jim_jordan@afs-lsc.com
Subject: Klunking noise = new tranny??? [2G, T, AT]
Message-ID: <#28>
Hi all,
Like many folks in the digest, I was hearing a "klunking" noise
whenever my '95GST went over a bump. The consensus was that the noise
was the result of worn out control arm bushings. So, I figure I'd let
SATAN take a look at it while he/she/it fixes my brakelight problem.
Well, the dealer just called me back to say that I needed a new
tranny. He the said problem was, and I quote, "something rattling
around inside your transmission". Something?!?!? Like a broken gear
maybe?? Now, I haven't had a single problem with the tranny since I
bought the car. It has always functioned perfectly. I don't think the
tranny has anything to do with the problem, but who am I to pass up a
free, new tranny. The dealer says the car is okay to drive til the new
tranny comes in. Umm...ok. I think there's more to this than the
dealer is letting on but I'll play along for now. Has anyone else had
a similar experience?
Jim
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 11:42:51 -0600
Subject: Talon Engine Size
Message-ID: <#29>
Hey folks!!
Taken from the article Kevan Riley posted about:
"The engines Chrysler buys from Mitsubishi are 2.5-liter V-6s
used in the Talon, Avenger, and Sebring as well as the Dodge
Stratus and Chrysler Cirrus compacts, and 3-liter V-6s offered
in Chrysler mini-vans."
Hmmmm.....V-6 Talons.....They must be really rare....ha ha ha.
Probably wouldn't be as good as the 16V 4cyl. anyway. Whatever
they end up doing, I just hope Chrysler will wake up a little
and maybe do a turbocharged version of the Avenger, whether that
would be a 4cyl or V-6 version. A twin-turbo V-6 Avenger would
be a nice replacement for the Stealth Turbo R/T.
Robert
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 12:29:01 +0000
From: "WHITTLESEY, BRAD ABBOTT
" <BAW1080@acs.tamu.edu>
Subject: VPC for sale
Message-ID: <#30>
I have a brand new HKS VPC for sale with the D136 chip. This chip works
with the stock injectors and was designed for California cars. Runs a
bit richer than the D138 chip. $750 OBO.
thanks,
Brad
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 10:39:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Reply mail
Message-ID: <#32>
Michael Chester: I have 90 Talon and have only 86K on them. I can't take
the speedometer cable out. The idle will not stable and the engine will
die everytimes I stop at the red light. (U can do heel and toe to keep
the RPM up tho in everytimes U come to stop) Good practice :)
Lee: 225/50/16 will fit in the stock rim (16*6). U will have a bumpy side
wall (ugly for me). The tire shop will have a hard time put it on too.
Plate frame: I just flip the stock bracket down longer bolts same holes.
Don't forget the rotate the plate too DUH! No heat problem.
Now I use L shape metal piece mount to the bottom of the spoiler (I
think only 1G talon have the big opening spoiler). I use a bolt in the
middle lower part of the spoiler to hold the L bracket and rivet the
plate to the L.
90 Talon FWD
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 12:41:20 EST
Subject: Upgraded PS pump / for sale / event dates
Message-ID: <#33>
Has anyone installed the upgraded power steering pump that DSS sells? They
claim the stock pump becomes really restrictive at rpms over 4k and that the
new less restrictive pump helps in high-rev turning.
I got to looking in my garage and I have quite a few DSM parts laying around
(some new and some used). I'll post them on the DSM trader. If you're
looking for a cat-back exhaust system, boost gauge, center vent gauge mount,
brake calipers, exhaust manifolds, clutch and pressure plates, etc. go take a
look.
I just received the Atlanta International Dragway race schedule for the 97
season. There are some interesting prospects coming up, the highlights of
which are:
February 15, 22: Test & Tune days. Snowing in Ohio? Come on down to
Georgia.
April 10-13: Fram Nationals. Unrelated to DSMs, but 5000hp is fun to watch!
May 24-25: NMCA Fastest Streetcar Shootout: Watch me whip up on big
blocks.
June 14-15: NOPI Import Show & Drag Race: Now this is a first around here.
Sept 6-7: Hayes MOPAR Meet: MOPAR => Chyrsler => Eagle => Talon => me.
The one that interests me most is the NOPI Import Show and Drag Race. NOPI
puts on an absolutely spectacular car show in the fall. If that is any
indication of the size of this show, it'll be big. I'll post more when I
find out any additional information.
If you have been stockpiling those rolls of chrome plated duct tape, this is
your big chance. I'm sure every Honda East of the Mississippi river will
attend.
Take care,
Gary Selph
------------------------------
Received: by bbfm.di.com with id QAA01921
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 12:00:05 -0800
Precedence: list
[Anyone have the August, 1993, Chrysler Mastertech Program
videotape? -talon mgr]
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) JJWARD
back again
3) Mike Cornwell
Mom's ride
5) Victor DelCol-YEGR07 Cold Power Steering Noise
6) Tory M. Blue
DSM oil caps.. NICE
7) TStreed
Archer Racing
8) Vantoy
Road Atanta Track Day
9) Prjtrev
3" Exhaust/Parts 2nd Gen.
10) ETHEE
Eric's back!
11) dwright
Thermal exhaust
12) Mciveron
BOOST to HIGH
13) Andrew S. Lu
For Sale
14) Dale Green
Corrado engines
15) Steve Basile
[2G] front end thump
16) RPavsner
South Florida DSM? meeting
17) Farzaan Kassam
Parts needed.
18) GDLeung91
[2G,T] AWD exhaust
19) RandyNet
Detonation / Knock Sensor - All DSM Turbo's
20) J. Doe
[T, NT, AT, ?] Questions Regaring Trannies and Neo
21) JimFoss
picky details
22) Snoopy-Boy!
Re: For Sale...Used 1G PArts.
23) Alex Kunadze
I'm back + Re: Some Drag racing basics
24) ERIC PLEBANI
Mini Fuel Cuts
25) gary glick
1g,t oil cap gaskets
26) auger
[2G,T] Alternator Upgrade
27) juanb
2G-Knock/thump when starting in cold weather
28) James Oxley
fuel starvation
29) Dallace Marable
Shootout traveling!
30) speedrcr
Re: Turbo Advertisement
31) darren.y.moy
CD-Changer
32) Robert Arrowood
Engine questions
33) APALMER
Clutch Pedal Engagement
34)
35)
36)
37)
Michael Rizzotti
Stock Wheels for Sale
Victor DelCol-YEGR07 PS Pump High RPM Cutout
Rory Martin
Copperheads and auto shows
Chad Gray
Using a Buzzer to Get codes
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
format)
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 13:12:03 -0700 (MST)
From: JJWARD@sizzle.yavapai.cc.az.us
Subject: back again
Message-ID: <#1>
well my talon has been down for 2 weeks now as the stock clutch was
destroyed, in dragracing, oh well. started leasing a 94 Probe GT, my second
one and was thinking of doing the basic mods. Found the mailing list and
guess what they do'nt allow disscussion of mods on it!!!! well i
diddn't subscibe to that, i 'll stick with the talon digest thank you.
Well in little over a week the talon goes to phoenix to undergo some mods
such as 20g turbo, front mount interccoler etc, should have 5 grand to play
with,
any suggestions as to with mods i should get? currently, i have
3" exhaust
k/n filter
fuel pump upgrade
greddy profec
nology wires
any suggestion would be a big help
thanks
jeremy
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 12:33:55
From: "Mike Cornwell" <mcornwell@abtechsys.com>
Subject: Mom's ride
Message-ID: <#3>
Derrick Chan <trapspeed@earthlink.net> wrote:
>> TEAM KOSOKU
> Yeah...that article was pretty interesting. What got me was
> the fact that the team leader's (RJ deVera)mom drives a show
> qualitly, slammed yellow Honda Odysee(pictured in Sport Compact
> or Turbo).
So THAT'S the story behind the Yellow Honda Odysee mini van. I took a
picture of it that's on my talon page at:
http://www.abtechsys.com/mike/dsm/dsm.htm
Mike
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 15:06:17 -0600
Subject: Cold Power Steering Noise
Message-ID: <#5>
I have had my 95 Talon down to -30 C. with no strange Power Steering Noises.
However I changed all the fluids in my car to synthetic soon after I bought
it.
At -20 C (0 F) regular oil is almost like molasses. Try changing your PS
fluid to synthetic. (Mobil has a synthetic ATF) let us know via the digest
if this makes a difference.
Victor Del Col
95 Talon TSi
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 13:05:42 +0000
Subject: DSM oil caps.. NICE
Message-ID: <#6>
Hey all,
Well just wanted to let you all know that I purchased a CLUB DSM oil
cap and it's awesome.. Eric (SCREAMNEAGLE) Does great work, no wonder
the filthy stinkin rich folks pay him to do custom stuff in their
multi trillion dollar homes.
The letters are all very clear and complete, the oil cap fits perfect
and is a great replacement for the
stock dreary caps.. IT adds a bit more sparkle in my engine bay and
I'm sure the next event I go to and have the hood up there are going
to be a lot of positive comments and fingers and whispers "Hey G,
check that oil cap out, it's da Bomb!" etc..etc. : ) heheheh
Obviously I was seeing myself at an import drag!!
Well that is it.. I believe Eric has a page up with these beuties on
display but not sure what it is so..... Email him at
EXZC94C@prodigy.com.
Don't laugh at the prodigy address.. OKAY GO AHEAD AND LAUGH!!
hehehehehehehehe, sorry Eric..
No I'm not affiliated with Eric in any way, just thought I would
share my opinions wit ya ahlll (hank accent!)
Later all,
Tory
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 15:42:36 -0600
From: TStreed@rres.com
Subject: Archer Racing
Message-ID: <#7>
Recently, I had a considerable amount of work done to my 1991 Talon TSI
AWD. Namely, I replaced the transfercase and changed the timing belt,
balance belt, tensioner, and other drive belts.
I had Archer Bros. do the work and I am very pleased. John Archer was
very helpful, the cost was reasonable and the work seems perfect. If you
are considering some major work, consider Archer Bros. After all, who
would you rather have do the work, the guy at Satan who just finished
adjusting the child seat in Chrysler's latest minivan, or a group who has
years of experience which is specific to your car?
Happy Motoring,
Todd Streed
91 Talon TSI
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 18:27:29 -0500
From: Vantoy <vampire@dnet.net>
Subject: Road Atanta Track Day
Message-ID: <#8>
High peoples,
Well, Jan 25th dawned and I showed up bright and early for the track day
at Road Atlanta.
After running through Tech and meeting up with several other drivers, including
Gary Selph
from the list here, we had a short meeting discussing the track and the flag
stations.
Each person had a instructor assigned so we went for a 2-3 lap run in the
instructors vehicle
to learn the track. After which we got into our own cars to take or first
session.
The sessions ran about 30 min each, and we had 3 sessions. I had a blast.
Leaned the line around
the course and how to brake into each of the turns. Even though we were
supposed to have a 85MPH
limit I was able to go 110 before the instructor asked me to calm down a little.
Gary tore through the field, passing all other cars as far as I could tell, even a
NSX. My car does
not have quite the mods that Gary's does, but I managed to keep ahead of all
but Gary and a Porsche
911. I passed a firebird and a Porsche 944.
(Gary has a 1st Gen Eagle, I have a 95 Eclipse GST )
The NSX owner came over after the last session and asked Gary what kind of
engine he had. When Gary
said "a 4 cyl" the NSX guy's eyes got big. His next question was
"Nitrous?" which had the answer "Nope!"
Gary got some good in car shots from his roll cage camera, and I cant
wait to get a copy.
A few RX7s took some off course trips, along with a Mustang. Just a lot
of mud on them and no real damage.
In my personal opinion, this beats drag racing all to heck, and you dont have to
worry about drivetrain
damage as much. Although we did see a 60's Mustang blow either it's
rear or tranny, I couldn't tell which.
After it was all over, We went to Rick Laurence's house to look at some
video he had taken of us going down the front straight. Rick had his
Galant VR4 there, but didn't run it. Then we watched the tape of the 95
shootout in Norwalk.
All in all it was a great time. Allways good to meet other DSMer's.
Maybe we can get a few more for the
next time!
Later!
Robert Toy
IRC Nick "Vampire"
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 19:18:19 -0500
From: Prjtrev@aol.com
Subject: 3" Exhaust/Parts 2nd Gen.
Message-ID: <#9>
REVolutions Motorsports (415) 259-9REV
Weapon * R Intake system for Turbo: $125.00
3" Thermal Research & Development Mendrel Exhaust for:
GS-T : $450.00 Straight Up Cheap:
GS-X : $465.00 Straight Cheap:
Upper Intercooler Pipe: $150.00 Hoses: Clamps: Acc:
T-25 w / Super 60 ( For Stock Look ) $650.00 Core Exchange....
16G Call for Prices.....
20G " " "
" "
Lowering springs: Suspension Techniques: ( Speed Tech ) 2" Drop : $200.00
Steel Braided Brake Lines: $220.00
HKS VPC : Second Gen: $930.00
HKS Fuel Cut Defenser: $225.00
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 18:30:52 -0600 (CST)
From: ETHEE@jazz.ucc.uno.edu
Subject: Eric's back!
Message-ID: <#10>
Hey everybody, I'mmmm backkkkkk!!!!!!!! This is Eric Hunn of New Orleans,
if you didn't already know. Anyone lookin for me? Rob, Steve, Hank, anyone?
Anyway, I've been off the digest for a month or so but I've got a new VAX
account. What have I missed? Anyone want to fill me in?
Any of you autocrossers in the southeast region call me! This season is going
to kick ass, we've got some cool stuff planned. Contact me and I'll tell ya.
Well, I look forward to hearin from you guys!
Eric (yes I'm still alive) Hunn
90 multicolored 2wd t
P.S. ****Kyle Munz-----I saw your parts request the other day but forgot your
address, I've got your front bumper cover if you still need it, contact me.
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 97 12:10:48 PST
From: dwright@SPH.LLU.EDU
Subject: Thermal exhaust
Message-ID: <#11>
>I heard that Thermal Research has a decent 3-incher..anyone heard of these
>people or have good experiences w/ this exhuast?
My brother and I both use Thermal Research's exhaust. I love it.
Sounds great and definetely improved the cars performance. He has a
GSX, I have a GST, both 1g.
Danielle
GSTChik on IRC
-----------------------------Date: Mon, 27 Jan 1997 20:27:31 -0600
From: Mciveron <Mciveron@concentric.net>
Subject: BOOST to HIGH
Message-ID: <#12>
Heh all,
I own a 95 with a pre95 BOV and A D.I.S. filter kit(extreme). My boost
is jumping to 18 when i floor it. I do not have a boost controller or
anything like that, I have had people tell me that this is to high for
the stock fuel pump. Please help, do not want to kill my engine.
Thanks Everyone (Chad95Awd)
CHAD
-----------------------------Date: 28 Jan 97 23:02:03 EST
From: "Andrew S. Lu" <103667.2673@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: For Sale
Message-ID: <#13>
Hi All,
My friend still has the following parts for sale:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Profec, $350
HKS exhaust for 95AWD $350
95AWD Differential with Axl. $500
95AWD Tranny $1000
Andrew
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 21:09:35 -0800
From: Dale Green <dgreen@islandnet.com>
Subject: Corrado engines
Message-ID: <#14>
>The VW Corrado has(had) two engines. The G60 has a turbo 4 cyl,
>while the SLC has the VR-6 cyl engine
If memory serves me right, the G60 had a supercharged 4 not a turbo. The G
stands for whatever is German for supercharger. G-Lader or something like
that.
The VR6 has the narrow angle V6 engine. One sweet piece of engineering. A
V6 in practically the same sized engine bay that held a 4 cyl.
Dale Green
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Wed, 29 Jan 1997 00:34:18 -0500
Steve Basile <emhs@pond.com>
Subject: [2G] front end thump
Message-ID: <#15>
I've also noticed a thumping noise when hitting bumps on my 95 TSi as
others have posted. It only happens below 30 mph or so. I had it up on
a lift for inspection and the mechanic and I checked it for a while (a
friend I can trust). Suspension was tight all the way up to the rack
and pinion.
When I jarred the steering wheel hard back and forth, we could hear a
thump. We mainly felt it inside the rack and pinion. I haven't gone to
Satan yet, that scares me more than the thump. If it gets worse, I
guess I have no choice. I will baby sit any work (better yet, give me
the new rack and I'll do it myself; will they let us do that?).
RE: Satan saying it was the tranny for someone? Holly s$#t!! I'd get my
car outa there, especially after the fast one they tried to pull with
your brakes.
Regards,
Steve Basile
95 TSi IRC: blk95tsi
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 00:51:16 -0500 (EST)
Subject: South Florida DSM? meeting
Message-ID: <#16>
Hey everyone,
Well a couple of us in South FL have decided to get together, maybe we can do
some racing or whatever. We are planning on meeting at the Miami Subs off of
University Drive and 595, some time around 10:30 or so on Thursday night. If
you are interested show up or e-mail me.
See you all later,
Robert
90 Tsi awd
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 22:01:13 -0800
Subject: Parts needed.
Message-ID: <#17>
Hey guys,
I'm totally swamped with all the emails coming in for those parts! I'm
keeping all of you guys updated though once things sell and what number
you are if the person ahead doesn't buy.
There are a few parts I need really badly though:
~ 6cm exhaust housing. This doesn't have to be in very good condition.
~ Stock upper intercooler pipe including BOV flange.
~ Stock MAS
Those are the things I remember. If you have any of the above you want
to get rid of, please email me at fkassam@direct.ca This is kind of
an urgent nature, so please get to me ASAP. Thanks guys!
Farzaan.
fkassam@direct.ca
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 01:06:44 -0500 (EST)
From: GDLeung91@aol.com
Subject: [2G,T] AWD exhaust
Message-ID: <#18>
<< I heard that Buschur will have his own 3" system in ~1 month, and the same
goes for Extreme, but I'm very impatient, so I'm wondering what I can get
now!!! If it's worth holding out a month for a Dave B, so be it...I need some
input to decide. >>
As a matter of fact, I spent last Saturday down at Buschur Racing watching
Dave put the finishing touches on his new 3" stainless, mandrel bent, catback
exhaust for the 2g AWD. I knew that he needed a car to check the final fit
and clearances, so I volunteered to drive my car down for him to use. I'll
say one thing, that exhaust sure is straight! I think the whole thing looked
great when he was finished. He mentioned that he was going to offer two other
versions...3" aluminized, press bent and 2.5" stainless, mandrel bent. Don't
quote me, though, call Dave for the details.
Here's the best part. He said he'd give me a FREE exhaust for bringing my car
down! Pretty nice, eh?
Dave Bowden '95 AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 01:33:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Detonation / Knock Sensor - All DSM Turbo's
Message-ID: <#19>
My car: 91 Eagle Talon Tsi FWD 91,000 miles, no engine mods.
I need suggestions of what type of things, aside from true pre-ignition, that
would cause the detonation sensor to signal the ECU to retard the ignition
timing. Noisey lifters are the first quick answer, but what else?
As these DSM engines get older, there are many moving engine parts that
could
wear out and cause "knock" that the knock sensor would consider pre-ignition.
A WAIS search found many people cured hesitation problems by replacing
noisy
lifters. The old lifters were not causing the performance problem, but
instead the noise they created was causing the ECU to think it had a knock
problem and retard the timing. Over the weekend, I replaced all of my
lifters, and it did not fix my hesitation problem.
In attempts to educate myselft, my DSM has been running with 2 working
knock
sensors for many months. One is soft mounted to the engine bay so it cannot
hear anything. I call this one my deaf sensor. The 2nd one is mounted to
the engine block where it should be. I call this one my live sensor. I have
switched the two locations to prove that both sensors work.
THE TEST: When the live sensor is hooked to the ECU, the ECU hears
"something", retards the timing, and causes a serious hesitation problem,
even at low RPMs. With the deaf sensor hooked to the ECU, it runs like the
wind. This test proves that the knock sensor singnal is what is causing the
problem, and nothing else. Note, you cannot just disconnect the live knock
sensor wires, because the ECU will recognize it is not hooked up, and default
to open loop mode, that is why you must have 2 knock sensors for this test.
After I replaced all of my lifters, "THE TEST" has the same results. Why?
What else could the live sensor be hearing? The only thing I can think of
next is the timing belt idler pully. When I did the lifter job, I decided it
was "noisey" and had potential to fail, so I am going to replace it next
weekend. I definately do not need that part to seize up or desinigrate. I
don't feel like doing any more valve jobs!
I do all of my own engine work, and I figure that I can just keep replacing
parts cheaper than having the dealer try to figure it out. I'm just not sure
where to go next. There has got to be some other high mileage DSMs with the
same problem.
I am taking any and all suggestions. Any thoughts or ideas you have are
worth me researching at this point. Please e-mail any reponses directly to
me, if I solve the problem I'll be sure to post the ideas and solutions to
the digest so they will be accessable to others through a WAIS search.
Thanks in advance,
RandyNet@aol.com
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 21:22:49 -0800
From: "J. Doe" <nolimits@cts.com>
Subject: [T, NT, AT, ?] Questions Regaring Trannies and Neons
Message-ID: <#20>
hello. I am an infiltrator, actually, from the neon mailing list
(neon@iastate.edu).
You big dudes out there with 210hp have gotten us into quite a discussion.
Someone said that the best times in a turbocharged car were acheived by a
manual tranny, while others said that the autos got better times.
now, Im no newbie, so I know that the auto talon supposedly has 5 less hp.
HOWEVER, the auto can powerbrake (its a chryco, so probably its stall
converter will rev up to 3000rpm, right?), and launch at almost full boost,
right? On top of that, it can keep the throttle at WOT through the shifts.
now, in the manuals favor is shorter gears, and thats all.
my next question was in regards to the Talon's Engine. The engine is
supposed to be a backwards "neon engine." Notice that the talon has 10 less
hp due to the exhaust being in the FRONT not the BACK, as it is in the
neon. Has anyone on this list heard that? I mean, in regards to the neon
engine?
and of course, there has to be one more. This one is an easy one, however.
Is there a super charger or other bolt-on performance product available for
the non turbo (2.0L, right?) talon engine? Presumably such a part would
also fit a neon. And, heck, we are REALLY starved for aftermarket parts
over here.
Thanks a bundle,
alex
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 03:08:52 -0500 (EST)
From: JimFoss@aol.com
Subject: picky details
Message-ID: <#21>
<On bracketing. Say you dial in 14.27 and run a 14.25 with a .590
reaction, against a guy dialed in at 13.00 who runs a 13.05 with a .520
reaction. His reaction was .07 quicker than yours, but his e.t.was .05
slower than his dial-in, while you were .02 under yours. Who wins? He
does.>
Actually you would both get to the finish line at the same time. (You get
1.27 sec head start, but he has .07 better reaction plus 1.20 sec quicker
run.) You lost, however, because you broke out (ran under your dial in).
<The VW Corrado has(had) two engines. The G60 has a turbo 4 cyl,
while the SLC has the VR-6 cyl engine.>
The G60 had a Roots type supercharger, not a turbo.
Jim Fossum
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 01:09:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: For Sale...Used 1G PArts.
Message-ID: <#22>
Hi, I have the following to "THROW AWAY" for cheap bucks caused I do not
need it anymore. Some of you might want it who knows?
1) Superchips Boost Graphics.
2) H&R Springs for 1G AWD.
3) TD04 from 1G AT AWD. Excellent condition..below 50K (Wonder who wants
a TD04? But their wheel have the same design as the 16G ..only smaller)
4) Exhaust Manifold from 1G "AT" AWD (Does not fit the TD05's) no
cracks..50K av miles.
Desmond.
ps Ignore my STUPID snoopy-boy nickname! Some friends put it in and I
don't know how to get rid of it!
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 03:35:25 +0000
From: "Alex Kunadze" <rabbit@txdirect.net>
Subject: I'm back + Re: Some Drag racing basics
Message-ID: <#23>
Hi folks,
I've been off the digest for a while (having too little time left and
too many issues to catch up on :), but since the Shootout is
aproaching, I thought I'd join you boys and girls again.
So, "Hi guys" to everyone I know, and "Nice to meet you" to everyone
else :)
Update on my GSX: it's sitting at the shop, with a blown engine,
waiting for a new killer block to go in next week. So I'm looking
forward to kicking some butt at the shootout :))
I also got great new suspension (GAB + HKS springs) and a set of
_real_ nice 16x8 forged BBS wheels from the Archer sale, so I hope
nothing drastic happens and I'll be able to get some race rubber and
try the car out in Corpus Cristi at the next PCA Time Trials there
(it's 2nd weekend every month, so if anybody whants to join me in
Feb., email me).
Oh, and my email address has changed. You can now reach me at
rabbit@txdirect.net
Re: Some Drag racing basics
I'd just add a little about the basics of getting good reaction
times. I read a looong article on that subject a while ago, and the
info helped me improve my reaction times a lot (about half of my
slips are around .550, with the best of .507).
On a "Sportsman" tree, reaction timer starts when the last amber
light goes on. Green light goes on .5 sec afterwards, and you should
be out of the sensor beams at the same instant to get a good
reaction time.
Now, let's see what happens between your brain decides to launch the
car, and the car actually moving out of the sensor beam: your feet
get the impulses from the brain, release the clutch and push the
accelerator, the power reaches the wheels through the sloppy
drivetrain, overcomes the inertia of a still car, and the car rolls (several
inches at least) out of the wheel sensor beam.
All this stuff takes time, so if you wait for the green and _then_
launch, you'll be dead late. The trick, then, is to start launching at :
..500 - (time it takes to get the car out of the beam)
after the last amber lights up.
My experience has been that it takes almost precisely .5 sec. to get
the car out of the beam, so I just let it go as soon as I see the
last amber. Never had a red light yet :)
Of course, all the cars are different, and all the drivers are
different, so it might not work for everybody, but the basic theory
is sound: count you time from the last amber, and not from the green.
Hope it helps.
Well, it's real nice to be back :)
Kudos to all of you,
Alex Kunadze
-----------------------------Date: Tue, 28 Jan 1997 23:05:05, -0500
Subject: Mini Fuel Cuts
Message-ID: <#24>
Hey all,
My Screamin Eagle recently was experiencing these mini-fuel cuts...
it felt like bogging from 5500 rpm to redline, My plugs were brand
new, and the wire were fairly new.
It turns out a while back my o2 voltage at idle was 000. and I
freaked cause I thought it was a problem, so I put the lower
honeycomb back in the MAS, this fixed that problem, And o2 voltage
was bouncing again at Idle. (how nice)
So then I put a DSFCD in , it worked but when in cold temps the car "
BOGGED" or mini fuel cut from 5500 to redline (this sucked). It was
not like the Big BANG almost stop dead fuel cut I used to get, but it
sucked never the less.
So at the track this past weekend, before my last 2 run's I pulled
the lower honeycomb back out ( cause I will tolerate a lean mix at
idle rather than that sh!tty fuel cut at WOT) It worked, the car
felt tremendously strong, and pulled all the way to redline. With no
cut or bogging. ( just a reminder to tighten ALL IC clamps, doh! )
I don't think it will hurt the car if it idles lean.
Later
Eric
Screamin Eagle
http://pages.prodigy.com/EXZC94C <--DSM Oil cap page :)
-----------------------------Date: 29 Jan 97 06:46:23 EST
Subject: 1g,t oil cap gaskets
Message-ID: <#25>
Till now I have bought new oil caps when they began to leak. I just bought
and
replace only the gasket in the cap. It was only $1 or $2 vs app $6-8 for the
whole cap. The procedure took only 5 minutes. I highly recommend just
replacing the gasket.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 04:47:19 -0800
From: auger <auger@cric.com>
Subject: [2G,T] Alternator Upgrade
Message-ID: <#26>
I am currently installing a competition stereo system with 3 Xtant Amps
and will obviously need more juice than the stock alternator can
provide. The stock 95+ turbo alternator has an output of 90 Amps, I
need more than 150. Has anyone tried upgrading the stock alternator
either by having it rewound or replaced with a high output alt? What
brands have worked well? Also, does anyone know the output of the
3000GT altenator and will it fit?
Steve
p.s. I still have the custom 2G sub box I posted for sale last week.
Look in the archives and make an offer.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 97 08:46:18 EST
From: juanb@VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: 2G-Knock/thump when starting in cold weather
Message-ID: <#27>
>
>
>
>
there were recent posts from J. Allerding & M. Sevaria
(sp?) on a knock/thump when starting their cars in cold weather, I
also experience this phenomenon and am curious to know how widespread
it is and is it limited to 2nd gens, turbos, all dsms
Yup, I've got this one too, but not as bad as some of the others have
posted. Just a quick thump that lasts about 1 second when the car is
started after having sat for a while in cold weather. Does sound like it
could be coming from the steering column (I'm gonna check my power
steering fluid just in case). I haven't really looked into it any
farther since it's only when cold and I don't have any other problems
and also since I'm out of my bumper-bumper warranty (still have another
17K on the powertrain!)...If anybody finds out anything else, keep us
all posted...
Juan
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 10:25:03 -0800
From: James Oxley <luxjo@thecore.com>
Subject: fuel starvation
Message-ID: <#28>
>What I was getting was NON-ECU induced
>fuelcut - in other words, the car was running out of fuel as the gas
>sloshed to the rear, **but the ECU didn't know it**. So I was basically
>repeatedly pounding my engine with superlean conditions
I get this upon a 1/4 mile type launch making a left hand turn, even
with slightly more than a 1/4 tank. At the track, I was using 3 gallons
of race fuel after completely draining tank. The gauge read basically
empty. I was only getting one run before, the fuel starvation kicked in.
This year, I'll have to spring for at least 5-6 gallons of race fuel.
OX
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 10:33:17 -0800
From: Dallace_Marable@gap.com (Dallace Marable)
Subject: Shootout traveling!
Message-ID: <#29>
Hey all,
Just wanted to find out who is traveling up I74 to Normal IL for the tour
on either Wednesday night or Thursday. A fellow DSMer and I are heading up
that way from the Cincinnati area. So, if anyone is heading that way let
me know and maybe we can hook up on the way?
[Please use the caravan@dsm.org list for this.
Subscribe = caravan-request@dsm.org
-talon mgr]
Anyone coming up through Cincinnati, let me know... If it's not a whole
caravan I can give you a place to stop and rest! I think my wife would
freak if a whole caravan showed up at the door step. But feel free to ask,
I might be able to talk her into it :)
I don't want to say any names (because I don't want to leave anyone out)
But I just want to let everyone know how much I appreciate the help I've
received on IRC, Digest, and Homepage. The support for these vehicles is
great. THANKS EVERYONE!!
(DmTaLoN on IRC)
Dallace
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 09:46:25 -0600
Subject: Re: Turbo Advertisement
Message-ID: <#30>
> FYI - I work in advertising in Dallas, Tx for Beckett Publications and I think
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
you're idea is hilarious. I was checking in an SRDS, a catalog listing
magazines and ad rates, schedules, etc. and found a listing for Turbo & High
Tech Performance Magazine (Is this Turbo?). If everybody did this, I'm sure
we'd want a small ad, so here are the specifics:
1/6 page (4-5/8"x2-3/8") Black and white, 1 time - $802.00
1/12 page (2-1/4"x2-3/8") Black and white, 1 time - $416.00
to add color, add the following amounts to the amounts listed above:
1 extra color - $450.00
4 color - $800.00
The smaller (1/12) ad has a $4.16 CPM (cost per thousand) and reaches 240
readers per dollar spent. They have a sworn (6-30-96) circulation of
100,000/month).
The only problem with the April Fool's thing: The April issue had a closing
date of December 15, 1996 for space and January 2, 1997 for materials. It
hits the stands (ships from printer) on March 4, 1997. Probably the soonest
issue to jump into would be June.
Now who would you get to design it?
Shawn Murphy
Hey Shawn,
That is Turbo Magazine. I was afraid we had already passed the
deadlines. Oh Well.... Who is the person responsible for the Honda
House of Duct Tape? I think we should have a competition and see who
comes up with the best 1/12 or 1/6 page ad for it. And the www
address for Club DSM should be on there......no phone numbers
Anyways, lets work on it...
Steve Reiter
-----------------------------Date: 29 Jan 97 9:45:47
Subject: CD-Changer
Message-ID: <#31>
Good Day Ladies and Gentlemen:
>But upon second inspection i foind out they have removed
>the CD-Changer unit from the trunk.
>So I asked for it. guess what. well it's gonna cost
>me $500 dollars to have one installed. But it had one.
When I bought my '95, my dealer made sure I knew exactly what the car had.
I didn't get the trunk mounted CD-Player. The dealer removed it
and knocked $ 1,050 (US) off of the price of the GSX. I'd love
a CD player, but I didn't want to pay over $ 1,000 bucks for one.
$ 500? The value dropped in half over about a year and a half?
That seems about right, but yeah, I think the dealer dropped
the ball here.
DM, '95 GSX listening to the radio.
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 10:51:30 -0600
Subject: Engine questions
Message-ID: <#32>
Hello everyone!!
There has been an ad in our "Wheels & Deals" book for a 90-91
Talon AWD that needs a new engine. The guy is asking $3000 for
the car. I called him and apparently while coming home from a
trip, the oil light came on. He says that his mechanic said
that the 'oil shaft' backed out. What is this 'oil shaft'? I
check my 90 manual and could not find reference to this item. I
am thinking that the this is just what the mechanic is calling
it. But then what could have happened? The guy never really
said if he lost oil or if he just lost pressure. I have a
friend that had a 16v NT that had the same thing happen to him.
But he noticed first that he was losing pressure and when he was
exiting the interstate the oil light came on and he immediately
shut it down. There was something internally that came loose
causing the oil pressure drop. He never lost any oil. SATAN
fixed it under warranty. I do know that they took the valve
cover off but unsure as to what they actually did. I am going
to try to look at the car. The guy said that the car is
drivable but there is a hard knocking above 2k rpm and thinks it
is getting ready to throw a rod. I just saw that a used engine
could be had for around $1200. What is the problem here and
would it be cheaper to get the engine rebuilt? Any help would
be appreciated as I am trying to convert a friend from a Z-car
enthusiast to a TEL enthusiast.
Robert
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 13:06:05 -0500
From: APALMER@maila.harris.com (APALMER)
Subject: Clutch Pedal Engagement
Message-ID: <#33>
All,
I recently installed my second Centerforce clutch, and I'm now having
a problem with the pedal throw. My clutch pedal must now be pushed
almost all the way to the floor to disengage it.... I have adjusted
the master cylinder rod as much as possible, which helped some, but
it's still disengaging fully only about 1.5" off the floor.
I had a new flywheel installed at the same time, and told the dealer
to measure it and cut it to CF's specs if it was off. The dealer
tells me that it was OK, but given the problem, I suspect that they
might not have inspected it. Could imporper tolerances in the height
of the flywheel surfaces be the cause of this symptom?
A WAIS search revealed that other digest members have had low pedal
engagement after putting in a new CF-DF too, but I didn't find any
answers posted. I'd really appreciate any help I can get!
Alex Palmer
92 AWD Talon
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 14:12:17 -0500
From: Michael Rizzotti <tsiawd91@tiac.net>
Subject: Stock Wheels for Sale
Message-ID: <#34>
[ 1G] [ T ] [AWD]
Hi guys,
I have a set of stock 91 wheels and tires for sale. The wheels are
the factory gray ones with all the hardware, ie.. lug bolts, etc...
The wheels are in good shape, a few scratches and the usual dings. They
haven't
been on the car in over a year. Three of the wheels have Eagle GT+4 tires
that are like new ( maybe 1,000 miles on them ) the last wheel has the same
tire but half the tread. I was originally going to keep them for winter
driving, but this year I put the car away for the winter, so I don't need
them. I will pay shipping, I am asking best offer or would consider trades
for some performance parts.
Thanks for the Bandwith
The usual keep up the great work Todd ;)
Mike Rizzotti
91 Talon Tsi AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 12:48:58 -0600
Subject: PS Pump High RPM Cutout
Message-ID: <#35>
I am surprised that no one has published the fix for this. I fixed my '95
and it was easy. Maybe there was no problem in the 1Gs.
The PS pump contains a flow control valve which restricts pressure at high
RPM. It can be found by removing the hose connector at the top of the pump.
As the flow increases the valve closes and restricts pressure. The valve
is kept open by a spring. I simply inserted small washers until the spring
is fully compressed so the valve will never close.
I have been running my car for over a year now with no ill effects.
Victor Del Col
95 TSi
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 14:21:32 -0500 (EST)
From: Rory Martin <rmartin@bara.psi.vcu.edu>
Subject: Copperheads and auto shows
Message-ID: <#36>
There's an interesting feature in February's edition of Automobile magazine
about the Dodge Copperhead: it appeared as a show car at the recent Detroit
Auto Show. The layout is a two-seater roadster, rwd with a five-speed
manual transmission, a rear suspension based upon the Talon's, and the car
would use the new 2.7-liter all-aluminum V6 being made for Chrysler's 1998
LH sedans (~220bhp). Supposedly, prices would start in the mid $20k's.
It's a hot-looking car!
My father-in-law went to the Auto Show, and after seeing the Copperhead he
visited the Talon stand. Apparently the base model Talon was on display.
How do they expect to sell a sports car like this?
Rory
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 14:42:42 -0500
Subject: Using a Buzzer to Get codes
Message-ID: <#37>
I am not sure if this has ever come up before, but i found a TSB
that had a decent idea in it.
Instead of using a volt meter to get trouble codes, they recommend
getting a Radio Shack 12volt (model 273-026, or 273-055) buzzer. You
connect a couple alligator clips to the buzzer, then get trouble codes by
listening to the long, and short beeps.
Cool eh'
Chad Gray
91 Talon Tsi FWD with 110K and it's still a BLAST to drive!
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 12:00:05 -0800
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) Dave Barger
Info on Alamo Autosports
2) Phil Grady
DSM Mechanics
3) RobGSX
Racing harness, Mopar web page
4) ZackFrangidakis
Questions [ 1G, T ]
5) Michael Richartz
[1g, T] Update on stereo noise, still there
6) Randy Robinson
Comment
7) Snoopy-Boy!
Re: GAB shocks.
8) Ted J Wiegandt
Dealer near Durham, NC
9) Michael Richartz
[1g, T] tach terminal and my idle
10) Merritt, Sam (S.) Parts for Sale
11) Robert E. Ritchie Brief question & VW Corrados
12) Pete Paraska
Re: Clutch Pedal Engagement
13) Andrew S. Lu
Legal Question on Exhaust
14) Hank A Bell
[ALL] Long Various
15) JChristou
Neon Speed Secrets
16) LNCAHUB.PZGRYW
<1G,T> Spark Plug Confussion.
17) J. Michael Roberts Need idle control valve [1G,NT]
18) Btalont
Centerforce's and low pedals..
19) SLongo0406
Steering rack play [1G,T]
20) james.grimes
[2G,T]
21) BugsIke
RE: Dave B. Post
22) guillermo_polo
Mom's ride
23) Mark Cookson
Loss of power w/hissing sound
24) Gregg Horan
Autoweek forsale, & Window cracks
25) Russ George
Lowering susp.
26) markp
2-1/2" downpipe gaskets
27) paul lyons
house o duct tape
28) darren.y.moy
Mods on a Lease?!
Submissions:
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
format)
Raceway Park,
---------------------------------------------------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 15:10:24 -0600
From: Dave Barger <dave@perceptive.net>
Subject: Info on Alamo Autosports
Message-ID: <#1>
Does anyone know who the "head guy" is at Alamo Autosports in San Antonio?
I know there is an "Alamo" location in San Antonio and Arlington, TX, and
in Louisiana. Are there any other locations? Are they affiliated with
each other in any way? Or are they competitors.
Any info would be apprecated.
Dave Barger
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 15:14:52 -0600
From: Phil.Grady@infores.com (Phil Grady)
Subject: DSM Mechanics
Message-ID: <#2>
Hi all,
Just wanted to know what happened to the listing of qualified
individuals willing to do some DSM upgrade work for an affordable
price. I live in the Chicago area and I don't have the proper tools
or experience to do the work I need done. If anyone knows of some good
mechanics in the Chicago area drop me a email.
[Check the web page, under Club DSM Search. -talon mgr]
Phil Grady
92 Laser AWD
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 16:38:17 -0500 (EST)
From: RobGSX@aol.com
Subject: Racing harness, Mopar web page
Message-ID: <#3>
It's not too soon to be thinking about the racing season. I'm looking for a
harness for my 90 Eclipse GSX. I don't have a roll cage for attachment since
I only Autocross the car. Can anyone recommend a harness ?
I found a Mopar Accessories web page http://www.mopar.com
Some of the items they had listed were a ski
carrier, vinyl hood cover, car covers and a trailer hitch.
Rob
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 17:02:26 -0600
From: ZackFrangidakis <uni@super-highway.net>
Subject: Questions [ 1G, T ]
Message-ID: <#4>
Hi All! Id like to ask a few questions regarding my car maybe someone
here on the digest can help me. I currently own a 93 TSI 5 speed with
44k miles....unfortunately it is stock :(. The other day when i was
leaving work i went to start my car and what i heard surprised me. As I
turned the key I heard a grounding noise similar to the noise the
starter makes....i quickly let off the the key and turned it all the way
back. I let off the clutch and repressed it again thinking that might
have been it. I turned the key again this time it started but i still
heard that grinding noise again for a few secs and other than that the
car ran fine. My question is this...is the problem serious? I am still
under an extended warranty from triple diamond...is this something that
would be covered? I live in chicago and the last few weeks have been
kinda cold like below freezing...could this problem be related to the
cold weather we have been having??? Ive had the car last winter and i
have not had this problem. About 2 weeks ago i had the oil and pcv
valve change...i checked the oil and it is slightly over the top notch
in the dipstick....i dont think this couuld be causing the problem.
Could the wrong viscosity oil be causing the problem? It seems that
the problem only occurs when the car is cold in the morning...btw i keep
the car garaged at night cause damn it gets cold here in chicago. I
think it might be a loose belt on the starter? If anyone else has
experienced a similar problem please let me know how u fixed the
problem. I dunno im stumped on this issue....if anyone could please help
me on this issue it would be greatly appreciated. Please RTP or post on
digest if u like.
Thanks in advance
Zack
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 19:18:51 -0500
Subject: [1g, T] Update on stereo noise, still there
Message-ID: <#5>
Hi everyone,
Well, as per several suggestions on how to get rid of the two engines
noise problems I have with my stereo, I took the whole car apart this
weekend. If you recall I mentioned that I have a mild whine constantly
and on occasion a louder popping whine sound. It turned out that my
power wires were along the driver side floorboard and the speaker and
RCAs on the passenger side. I took all of the left side wires out and
ran them up the middle under the center console. I had several
suggestions to avoid the ECU. My wires passed next to it, under the
dash and then back. I thought running them up the center might help in
causing less contact. I now know what every wire to the system is and
labeled them as I reconnected each from the head and EQ to the amps.
Also recommended to me was to have one common ground. I ran my two amp
grounds which were bolted to the body under the rear seat, forward and
grounded them with the stereo and EQ to the dash. I was rather proud of
my 4 hours of work. But then I started the car and turned the stereo
on and the whine is still there. And now that second intermitant whine
is now a constant. I have also noticed a pop in the speakers that
wasn=92t there before when I shut the system off. So what gives now?
Everything is still pretty much wired the way it was with the exception
of the common ground connection. The only other thing that I did change
was a connection to my EQ. I was looking at the connection schematic to
the EQ and there are three wires; one is ground, one connects to my
remote wire, and the third should connect to a constant 12 volt. I
found that mine was connected to the ignition wire coming from the
harness. I switched this to the constant 12 volt in the harness that is
used for memory. I=92m now wondering if perhaps the EQ is drawing more
power from this wire than before, or if the ignition wire has a filter
somewhere in the system that the memory wire doesn=92t.
Any other suggestions?
Mike
91 Laser RS-T
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 19:29:03 -0800
From: Randy Robinson <Randjuke@clinton.net>
Subject: Comment
Message-ID: <#6>
OK, I test drove a 97' GSX and yeah, it's fun to drive. Frankly,
though, I'm kinda leery about buying a car that, judging by this group
and the FAQs, has had a crappy gearshift for years, is always breaking
down, and is serviced by a company routinely known as Satan. Is it just
that people with negative comments are more likely to post?
-----------------------------Date:
From:
Wed, 29 Jan 1997 18:04:37 -0800 (PST)
Snoopy-Boy! <dfong@cs.uop.edu>
Subject: Re: GAB shocks.
Message-ID: <#7>
Hi, I have a GAB shocks/ST springs setup. GAB have been adjusted to all
softest settings both front and back, still they are so damm HARD that
every bump on the road = BIG BANG. At the rate I am going, i am gonna
share to end up breaking my back. Does these GABs ever bottom out?
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 21:06:56 CST
From: Ted J Wiegandt <tedly@iastate.edu>
Subject: Dealer near Durham, NC
Message-ID: <#8>
Does anyone know of a decent dealer near Durham, NC?
My sister is having a nightmare experience with a dealer in Durham, NC
trying to get some warrantee work done. The car has been at the dealer
for 2 weeks because of total electrical failure on a 95 Tsi AWD and the
dealer hasn't even looked at it yet. Plus there are literally 10 other
things they need to fix because they failed to fix them in the past.
Thanks for the help,
Ted Wiegandt
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 22:07:33 -0500
Subject: [1g, T] tach terminal and my idle
Message-ID: <#9>
Hi again,
Thanks again to everyone who has replied to my previous posts and
questions. I now know I should keep an eye out in the junk yards for
that 95 manifold. Here is another question:
Again lately I have been reading about this tach terminal and setting
the idle. What exactly is it and do you need to do anything with it to
set the idl? When I set my idle I just turned the idle screw like I saw
the dealer do. Now I am reading about grounding it and setting the
proper idle, etc. Could this be a cause to why I have to set my idle
high so the AC doesn't drop it and kill it? Could this also be why my
idle sometimes fluctuates? Did the dealer do it wrong (surprise,
surprise)? Some people suggested that is could be my ISC, but that
isn't even a year old, I replaced it last spring. The problem began a
short time later.
[This should be explained in the shop manual. -talon mgr]
Thanks again.
Mike
IRC: RS-Turbo (I have to log back on sometime and see what is new)
91 Laser RS-T
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 13:04:12 -0500
Subject: Parts for Sale
Message-ID: <#10>
Folks,
I still have the following parts available. The turbo had been sold,
however, due to extraordinary circumstances, the turbo is on the market
again.
Ported and clipped 16G with 7cm housing - $400 + stock turbo
16x7.5 Momo Evolution rims (chrome) - $1,200 or best offer + stock rims
HKS exhaust - $200 or best offer + stock exhaust
VPC - $500
One-piece intercooler pipe (fits around ABS) - $150
I previously listed just the VPC control unit at $300. I will now sell
the whole unit for $500. Removal of the sensors, etc. is easier than I
thought. Also, it would make life easier to sell the rims to someone in
North Carolina.
Regards, Sam
Raleigh, NC
-----------------------------Date: Wed, 29 Jan 1997 21:17:02 -0600
From: "Robert E. Ritchie" <rritchie@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Brief question & VW Corrados
Message-ID: <#11>
(RTP) I've installed Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings. I used
all the silicone grease that came with them, which seemed skimpy but I
got everything covered. Several months later they still work great but
a few are squeaking something fierce. What should re-grease them with
that will do the job and not wash off? Is there a correct amount or
just glop as much in there as I can make stay? Where can I get this
grease? RTP, TIA!
Early VW Corrados were inline-4, 1.8 or was it 2.0. I'm pretty sure it
was 8-valve; why they didn't use their 16v head is beyond me. It was
*supercharged* (not turbo-) with a compressor that was spiral shaped
inside. Apparently the Germans thought it looked like a "G" so they
called it a "G-lader" ("G-charger") and labelled the cars "G60".
Later Corrados have a 2.8 liter, 15-degree V-6. Looks great on paper
but I have no idea how tough it is, or how well it pulls. These models
are labelled "SLC" and are supposed to be a little quicker. I think it
is SOHC (two cams total), but don't know how many valves.
All US Corrados are FWD but I remember reading something about a Synchro
(AWD) model in the European market. I'm not sure about that one. Car
magazines showed G60 Corrados just a few ticks behind AWD DSM's back
then, and SLC's running neck-and-neck with us.
I know all this because I've been living with a VW freak. Don't worry,
I'm moving out in February. :) TIA for help with my bushings!
~Rob Ritchie (Rob90AWD on IRC)
lamenting there is no Digest for his new-used Subaru
-----------------------------Date:
Wed, 29 Jan 1997 23:45:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Clutch Pedal Engagement
Message-ID: <#12>
>I recently installed my second Centerforce clutch, and I'm now having
>a problem with the pedal throw. My clutch pedal must now be pushed
>almost all the way to the floor to disengage it.... I have adjusted
>the master cylinder rod as much as possible, which helped some, but
>it's still disengaging fully only about 1.5" off the floor.
Since new, my 92 GSX had long pedal throw. I thought it was a design
flaw (it is to some extent, but not as bad as my car was). I bled the
fluid, and didn't see a difference.
I adjusted the linkage (at the mater cylinder rod and pedal stop, both)
so that I got the most throw out of the pedal by backing off the pedal stop
as much as reasonable, and then adjusted the free play to be maybe 1/2"
of true pedal movement before the slave cylinder began to move out.
(Need a partner for this adjustment). That helped me get the clutch fully
engaged so it ground less going into 2nd and 3rd on upshift, but I
wondered if I was just seeing the result of having to move the clutch
pedal through a longer distance and the extra time was helping the speed
matching of the parts in the tranny as they spun down. Pushing the pedal
in very fast showed that this was only partly true. It did have something
to do with moving the clutch disc farther away from the flywheel and
pressure plate. But it felt as if the inertia of the internals of the trans
(That long mainshaft and gears) were still too much for any of the various
synchro sets my 2 trannies and 4 rebuilds had seen. (I think this is one
design flaw the tranny has that causes so many of the problems. I think
Luis Haddack (sp?) pointed this out years ago.)
After my CFDF was installed by the dealer during a warantee tranny
rebuild (4th time), the action of the clutch pedal was variable from
day to day. Sometimes it would have lots of free play and not disengage
enough, and other days or different times during the same drive, it would
have insufficient free play (riding on the throw-out bearing with the
pedal all the way out). I ventured under the dash to adjust it for the
first time back from the shop to "undo" the stock free play adjustment
I figured they did and I saw brake (clutch) fluid seeping out of the
rubber boot on the clutch master cylinder. What I was seeing (at 62000 mi)
were symptoms of a worn master cylinder. I rebuilt it finally last weekend
(couldn't find a complete master cylinder quickly and it was getting bad)
and I found that the piston assemble was covered with more than
the usual amount of black fluid. It could be corroded Aluminum from the
cylinder bore, but was probably worn rubber seal material from the piston
assembly. Once rebuilt, my clutch pedal needs less throw to fully
disengage the clutch and the feel is firmer and more positive.
Now I wonder if all those tranny rebuilds were necessary because the
whole time the clutch wasn't disengaging as much as needed and the
synchros were over taxed. Granted, they're a bad design anyway,
but this could have been exagerating the problem.
Sorry so long, but the point is consider that you might have a
clutch hydraulics problem, either the slave or master cylinder.
>I had a new flywheel installed at the same time, and told the dealer
>to measure it and cut it to CF's specs if it was off. The dealer
>tells me that it was OK, but given the problem, I suspect that they
>might not have inspected it. Could imporper tolerances in the height
>of the flywheel surfaces be the cause of this symptom?
I think I've heard this talked about here. With the CFDF, the flywheel
grinding specs are very important. But all it takes is for the people
installing the flywheel to measure it with a caliper or depth gage. It
could be forgotten if the mechanic(s) were in a hurry or forgot about the
importance of this. But it _is_ important. If the step is too large, the
clutch won't disengage properly, and if it's too small, it won't have enough
clamping force. Unfortunately, (I'm 99% sure of this) you have to seperate
the tranny and engine to measure it. Not sure if you have room to seperate
them and not actually remove one from the car to get in there and measure
the flywheel step. Seems like it might be possible.
Sorry, I just can't seem to write small posts and get my point across clearly.
-----------------------------Date: 30 Jan 97 01:43:23 EST
From: "Andrew S. Lu" <103667.2673@CompuServe.COM>
Subject: Legal Question on Exhaust
Message-ID: <#13>
Hi everyone,
I have a question regarding exhaust mods in CA... I live in Alhambra (duct-tape
Honda capital of the world)... and the cops here really notice vehicle
modifications.
I have been given fixer tickets twice by the same cop already. I have a 95turbo
with RSR exhaust (the most quiet one...). Even when I was shifting at 1000
rpm
when driving next to him, he still pulled me over!
He says the CA law is that any modification to exhaust which makes it louder
than Stock is illegal... he then went on a powertrip saying he could give me a
federal clean air act ticket which requires $2500, impound my car...etc. He
must have been abused as a child. BTW, for my tickets I had my cop friend and
highway patrols signed off, but I would not like to get pulled over again. I
did not even change my exhaust when I gone to the highway patrol station to
get
the ticket signed!
Does anyone know if what he said is true? If it's true, then all cat-backs are
illegal in CA!
Andrew
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 01:14:55 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [ALL] Long Various
Message-ID: <#14>
Hi,
It's been a while. I seemed to have run out of material for "My
Act," but now I have returned with a vengeance. I am still shooting for
that 20G, but I feel the 16G will be better. I'll try the 20G first,
since I have one layin' around my friend's shop to tinker with, RIGHT
STEVE? hehehe.
First of all I would advise not taking a 90 Degree turn at 45mph
in the rain, unless u like the ditch. I seemed to know what I was doin',
as I spun the wheel hard, did 2 360Degree spins, pushed the clutch in,
restarted, and dumped the clutch B4 traffic caught up with me. I got a
couple of thumbs-up on I-12 after that. FEAR OF GOD WUZ IN ME.
Secondly, I would like to thank Dave B. for the shootout info,
Todd for the Caravan@dsm.org, and Tony Wilhelm for the Tour info. Let's
give 'em a big standing ovation guys/gals. (Then again, let's just send
'em some info in MIME format, maybe some HTML too) REALLY, thanks again
guys, WE NEED MORE EVENTS! (hehe)
Capitol Dragway FINALLY opens up mid Feb. due to contrary belief
of Jan. I'll have nothing but a K&N and "God's Speed". Pray I make it
down the track guys/gals. With my current camber/toe situation, I'll
probably be the first car to make an autoX track out of the dragstrip.
Another point I would like to ask, is about my mods I am plannin'
to do with my tax money. Listen and listen good. I need advice, PLEASE.
My mods with tax $$$:
Fuel pump Nippowhatchamakalit (will a 5.0 one work???)
1st gen. BOV w/adapters (Dave B)
grainger valve (or hallman)
testpipe
magnecores
NGKs (what setting for '96 GS-T mostly stock?)
R1s (test 'em from Steve @alamola)
That's pretty much it. I'll have 110 or whatever octane gas and
22psi at the track, and stick to 18psi on the street with 93oct. Any
help would be greatly appreciated. I'll start on the major stuff in Mid
feb. or early march. I know it's not much time, but school is killin' me
like the rest of ya'll.
I had the best race day of my life the other day. I racked up
some major wins (in total # only, not individual scoring).
'65 Boss Rustank 302, open headers, gears, etc.
'89 Lincoln Towncar FWD
'96 Ford Ranger Splash (supposedly runs 14.000000s)
'96 Eclipse GS (my clutch slipped BADDDDD!)
'97 Camaro "F11" Z-28 (285HP don't like rain)
'93 Chevy Stepside 5pseed 350 flows, 50HP NOS
I think I did good, considering I almost lost my clutch. I had been
driving in the city all day, my clutch wuz hot, and when I raced the GS
last, I dropped the clutch at 3000rpm, and the car just whined up to
redline, nothing. I raced from a bog, beat him, and limped home. Next
day, clutch wuz fine, no slipping in ANY GEAR, so I guess it wuz the city
driving that had faded it. ?!?!?
I'll let u all go 4 now, but I'll leave u with the phone # to
Strong's Enterprise, the company from which I purchased my Supra TT
spoiler (wing). Back then, fall '94, $145. Now, about $450!!! ACK!
L8R.
Strong's Enterprise 1-909-689-1866
RUFRIDR
http://www.gc.dsm.org Gulf Coast DSM Chapter!
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 02:26:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Neon Speed Secrets
Message-ID: <#15>
How to go fast in a Neon:
1. Push it with a DSM
2. Turn the engine around the right way
3. Call HoDT for speed parts
John C.
[Now now... let's be more neighborly to our
friendly caffeine fiends... :-) -talon mgr]
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 06:43:09 -0500
From: LNCAHUB.PZGRYW@gmeds.com
Subject: <1G,T> Spark Plug Confussion.
Message-ID: <#16>
There has been a lot of different spark plugs suggested for different
applications. Could someone
who is knowledgable in this matter please post a small list of the best spark
plugs to use with most
common dsm configurations such as stock boost, 15, 16, 18, 21 psi, stock
turbo, 16G, 20G etc. and
keep in mind geographical climate differences (calif. as oppossed to NY or
Canada) and other mods.
I think this would be beneficial to many readers.
6ES, 7ES, 7EKS, 007JBND ???
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 07:19:29 -0500
From: "J. Michael Roberts" <mroberts@eastky.com>
Subject: Need idle control valve [1G,NT]
Message-ID: <#17>
Hi everyone!
This past weekend I had the idle control valve burn out of my 93
Eclipse 2.0 DOHC NT. I have searched everyone used parts dealer I can
find with no success. The only place I have been able to locate it is
at the dealer for $248. Does anyone have any idea on where I could
locate one? I'd appreciate any help you all could offer.
Thanks,
Mike Roberts
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 08:10:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Centerforce's and low pedals..
Message-ID: <#18>
For all you that are installing Centerforce clutches....the flywheel MUST be
reground to their dimensions that are provided on a bright orange sheet
included with the clutch. This is very important as the CFDF disk is thinner
than a stock disk. If you install the clutch on a stock flywheel that has not
been resurfaced to the new dimensions, you will experience the low pedal that
Alex Palmer mentioned yesterday. This is because the pressure plate does not
rest at the correct height when installed on a stock flywheel and the
throwout bearing and clutch hydraulics don't have enough stroke to disengage
the flywheel. There is a fix other than taking the clutch back out...shim the
push rod that sits in the slave cylinder with small washers which will give
you a little more stroke. Hope this helps keep everyone from having problems
in the future.
Brian Hood
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 09:15:17 -0500 (EST)
From: SLongo0406@aol.com
Subject: Steering rack play [1G,T]
Message-ID: <#19>
>When I jarred the steering wheel hard back and forth, we could hear a
>thump. We mainly felt it inside the rack and pinion.
I've had this problem with my '92 GSX since the day I bought it.
Although slight at first, it's gotten progressivly worse (car now
has 62k). It's most noticeable when the cars parked and you rock
the steering wheel back and forth. Car appears to be fine at speed
and such. As far as I understand, to take up the play in the steering
rack requires pulling it from the car as the access to the adjustment
is impossible to get to while the racks still in the car. Anyone ever
solve this problem short of replacing the rack?
~Steve
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 08:40:21 -0600
From: james.grimes@plus.com
Subject: [2G,T]
Message-ID: <#20>
I was think about buying a '97 Eclipse GSX or a Spyder GS-T. I am planing
on modifing it once Iget it. But I still not sure which one to get. If
any of you have any suggestions or comments about what i sure do please let
me know. I would like to at least break the 12's. Would it be that much
harder in the ragtop form with only FWD. Also how hard would it be to
convert the FWD Spyder to AWD.
[It would be easier to convert an AWD to a ragtop - but that wouldn't
be easy, either. -talon mgr]
THX in advance
James
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 09:52:30 -0500 (EST)
From: BugsIke@aol.com
Subject: RE: Dave B. Post
Message-ID: <#21>
Whew...
Dave you must sure like to argue...
Actually, I must support Dave's arguement, ask yourself this:
1) Who's porting is on the fastest DSM's?
2) Who's done the most porting on DSM's, as porting is a job requiring
experiance
on the SPECIFIC engine being worked on - where to remove metal is more
important
than how much is removed.
3) If the above hasn't conviced you, consider the fact that is Dave B. is
specifically a DSM specialist business, not a general practioner speed shop
BTW, I think Dave is correct regarding polishing jobs. In fact, I've been
told a mirror finish
in a long intake tract can actually be bad - a little turbulance helps the
fuel remain atomized.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 08:17:58 -0700
Subject: Mom's ride
Message-ID: <#22>
>> TEAM KOSOKU
>So THAT'S the story behind the Yellow Honda Odysee mini van. I took a
>picture of it that's on my talon page at:
>http://www.abtechsys.com/mike/dsm/dsm.htm
[I really liked that minivan. Beautiful install. Plus, you
could see the compressor wheel spinning - no air filter,
completely bare-naked to the air. -talon mgr]
I looked at that thing while I was at Battle, it's pretty nice and guess
what, it's TURBO. Now that is a minivan, too bad it's a Honda. Has anyone
in the digest seen that badass turbo Diamante wagon? It's got a huge
triangle Greddy sticker on it, not sure what it runs but it's pretty trick.
He's got a single din radio and underneath he's got a Rebic III, Simulator,
Profec, and Greddy turbo timer, very clean.
Later fellow DSMR's.... BTW I didn't brake my timing belt on the way to
work today..;)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 08:55:45 -0800
Subject: Loss of power w/hissing sound
Message-ID: <#23>
Hi, I sent this Sunday, but I haven't seen it show up in the list, so here
it goes again. My appologies for any duplications.
I checked WAIS, but it wasn't too clear so I'm looking for
confirmation/denials...
Twice yesterday, once in first gear and once in fourth, I floored it, OEM
boost gauge (still haven't gotten a real boost gauge) read full boost, but
I was getting very little power and I could hear what sounded like the
wastegate stuck open. That is -- a continuous version of the short
"whoosh" I get when changing gears. Plus, and maybe totally unrelated, is
that it was stalling as I was trying to leave the parking lot (right before
the second loss of power event). WAIS pointed to either the EGR or ICS but
nothing very clear...
I have an HKS VPC and I am going to check its connections, but I haven't
done so yet. (I don't really think it is the VPC as everything seems to be
pretty much OK now.) I have about 46K (30K with VPC) miles on a '92 Galant
VR-4.
WAIS pointed to a bad/stuck wastegate (but I only found a response, no
initial question, so I can't be sure), but I'm wondering if the idle
problem may be related, and I wanted to confirm that it may be the
wastegate and ask how you fix it (get a new one?) and where is it a Galant
VR-4?
Also, I am seriously considering a full blown intercooler upgrade. A year
or more ago a member of the digest (someone named Robert perhaps?) sent
me
an e-mail saying he was working on a full blown intercooler upgrade for the
Galant VR-4, something in the $1500 range. If you ever got it finished,
I'm interested, please e-mail me.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 11:45:44 -0500
From: Gregg Horan <horangr@hsd.utc.com>
Subject: Autoweek forsale, & Window cracks
Message-ID: <#24>
Does anyone know about the talon forsale in Autoweek?
I think it said something about Team HKS.
I was also curious if anyone has had any problems in the
past with windshields cracking? Mine's cracking in the
lower corner on both sides! Definately not an impact thing
unless some fat guy just sat on the thing. It almost seems
like frame flexing caused the glass to bend and crack in
those spots.
Well, I don't have to pay for the replacement at least, but
it's still sort of annoying.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 10:43:23 -0700
From: snowdancer@idcomm.com (Russ George)
Subject: Lowering susp.
Message-ID: <#25>
I saw a base model '93 Eclipse about a month ago that was about 5" off
the ground! I like it! Is this possible to do to a '91 TSI AWD? If
so, how? Tires? New susp.?
Russ George
'91 TSI AWD (soon to be anyway)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 97 11:45:26 MDT
Subject: 2-1/2" downpipe gaskets
Message-ID: <#26>
For those using the Buschur/Frakes 2-1/2" stainless downpipe,
where do you find the gaskets that attach to the bottom of
the O2 sensor housing?
I've got a couple w/ the wrong spacing on the mounting holes.
I was going to elongate the holes w/ a dremel until my mechanic
told me that the compound used in the gaskets has asbestos. yow.
where to get the right gaskets? part numbers would be appreciated.
thanks,
Mark Pilon
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 97 12:55 CST
Subject: house o duct tape
Message-ID: <#27>
>I think we should have a competition and see who
>comes up with the best 1/12 or 1/6 page ad for it. And the www
>address for Club DSM should be on there
Before someone gets too serious about this (I think it's funny too) I doubt
Turbo would let the ad go through. Seriously do you think they would like to
hack off any one specific group be it Hondas, DSM's or otherwise. Even if
they thought it was funny I doubt they'd think it worth the risk of losing
subscribers.
[It would probably only work in the April issue, and it sounds like we
missed that deadline. -talon mgr]
Paul Lyons (IRC Pauley-Man)
-----------------------------Date: 30 Jan 97 10:52:07
Subject: Mods on a Lease?!
Message-ID: <#28>
Good Day DSM Owners and Leasers:
>>well my talon has been down for 2 weeks now as the stock clutch was
destroyed, in dragracing, oh well. started leasing a 94 Probe GT, my second
one and was thinking of doing the basic mods.<<
I didn't think people would modify leased cars unless they were planning on
buying it at the end of the lease! I know people also buy their cars at the end
of the lease if they can turn around and sell it for a profit, but that's never
a sure thing.
I just think people that lease have a different view of their car.
A friend of mine leased a Corvette, and rode on worn tires for the last 6 months
of his lease. He didn't want to put the $$ into a car that he was forced
to return!
DM, owner of a fully paid-for '95 GSX
-----------------------------From bouncer Fri Jan 31 18:09:09 1997
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 12:00:05 -0800
Precedence: list
[T] - turbo 2.0l
[18] - 1.8l
Today's Topics:
1) Jim Bogard
2) Joseph M. Cicali
3) RENEGAR
4) Michael Kline
5) RENEGAR
6) Jackson, Kahlil 7) Jackson, Kahlil 8) Jarrod Igou
9) Joe Jankord
11) Xceler8n
12) Al McKechnie
Extreme Motorsports and stickers...
Leaking Windshield Washer Nozzels
DynoMax UltraFlo Exhausts?
HoDT ad in Turbo
DynoMax UltraFlo Exhausts? : Part II
TP for sale: '90 wheels
TP socal repair shops
1G NT Noise when cold...SURPRISE!
PMS Unit (MAF) / Cobra (11.95)
for sale [1g]
1G NT New Road Rat
13)
14)
15)
16)
17)
18)
19)
20)
21)
22)
23)
24)
25)
26)
27)
28)
29)
30)
31)
32)
33)
CheezeFrog
CA Exhaust/Muffler Laws
Michael Richartz
[1g, T] Pillar Mount
Bill Lawrence
lots of things
ARTIS LANARD BEATTY 2G water in a headlight
juanb
Re: Comment (Semi-long)
rich
[1g,T] Turbo Wanted
Ron Sinclair
2.5" TP wanted, Mike F., BOI/bracket racing (1G, T
Michael Breslin
Taunteen
Tome
Grinding noise
Bradley H. Lamont [2g,T] The saga of getting the whining noise fixed
Bryan Warren
Fog/driving lamps
sborders
Tires and wheels, autox classing [2G]
Tome
comments
Tony Hewitt
Air fuel ratio gauge, Rendez-vous video
Jesse Hustad
Clutch Master Cylinder & Brakes
xwing
Alternator Upgrade
markp
Alamo/Spearco intercooler wanted
Rory Martin
Copperhead and paint chips
speedrcr
Race Tires for sale
Joe Jankord
o2 Sensor
Paul Mrozowski
<1G,T> Broken belts...
body)
Home Page:
http://www.dsm.org
IRC chat:
format)
Raceway Park,
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 15:11:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Bogard <jimbo@aplcomm.jhuapl.edu>
Subject: Extreme Motorsports and stickers...
Message-ID: <#1>
Chelk another one up for Extreme motorsports. I took my Talon in for a
timing belt and was extremely (heh) pleased with everything. Very clean
shop, and Sean was more than helpful and willing to talk even though he
was behind schedule. I feel fortunate to have a facility dedicated to
DSMs so close at hand.
Did we ever get anywhere with the DSM stickers? I seem to recall that
whomever was handling it dropped it for one reason or another. I'm
considering taking a crack at it myself.
Jim
1993 Talon AWD Tsi
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 15:31:28 -0500
From: "Joseph M. Cicali" <jcicali@li.net>
Subject: Leaking Windshield Washer Nozzels
Message-ID: <#2>
[2G, T]
TSB 95-51-002 Applies to "some" 95 Turbo vehiceles.
To make a long story short, the instructions involve removing the two
existing black check valves (MB 229708) from the lines behind the
nozzels and replacing them with two blue ones (MB 171570). Then remove a
second black check valve (MB 19160) further down the line (after the
"y") and replace it with a white connector (MB 0883730). Then reinstall
the first two black check valves into the line under the passenger side
sill after removing a white check valve (MB 191059).
DO NOT LOOK TOO HARD - there are NO check valves there, at least in my
95 GS-T. I guess the factory was out of them that day. Anyway the
problem went away after installing the two new blue check valves.
BTW if the dealer looks up the part number for the valves, he's going to
get a really weird description like a window strut ot something.
PS. I also have the clunking noise traveling over small bumps and yes no one can seem to find the source.
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 17:25:19 -0500
Subject: DynoMax UltraFlo Exhausts?
Message-ID: <#3>
[RTP]
I recently put my name on Dave Buschurs list to get a 2.5" cat-back w/
DynoMax UltraFlo for my 91 AWD.
I've heard the chat before, but I thought I'd ask some final quick
questions that I forgot to ask David on the phone.
1. Whats the tip look like? Two or one single tip? Can David customize
that too?
2. David says its the better 2.5" system, but exactly how much of a
power gain can this and a test-pipe add? I'll take any comments...times,
HP, seat-of-the-pants-feel, anything.
3. Will, after this, a downpipe upgrade add any more of a noticeable
gain on this setup?
4. After a 2.5" exhaust...what would you guys do next? I'm thinking of
porting the exhaust manifold / adding the bigger fuel pump next.
Thanks,
Renegar '91 Tsi AWD
Finally w/ mods. (soon)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 18:09:32 -0500
Subject: HoDT ad in Turbo
Message-ID: <#4>
Paul Lyons wrote:
>Before someone gets too serious about this (I think it's funny too) I doubt
>Turbo would let the ad go through. Seriously do you think they would like to
>hack off any one specific group be it Hondas, DSM's or otherwise. Even if
>they thought it was funny I doubt they'd think it worth the risk of losing
>subscribers.
I bet it would go if it was set up the right way. In fact, since most of a
magazines revenues usually come from advertisers, they aren't too likely to
turn down an ad unless the material is "politically incorrect" or grossly
offensive in nature. The Honda crowd might even take it up as some kind of
a challenge that we could parlay into a DSM/Honda a** whuppin'. To do
this, the ad would have to contain a phrase in the fine print like "If duct
tape won't make your car faster, then you should consider buying a real car
(i.e. Talon, Eclipse)." And instead of some tiny ad, we should make it a
1/2 page, 4 color ad with a picture of a DSM squishing some duct-taped '85
Accord.
That ought to do it. :-)
As far as hacking off a specific group of car owners, as I see it, there is
already an awful lot of bitching and moaning on this Digest about Turbo
magazine and their lack of quality DSM coverage [or for that matter,
coverage in general]. Not that it isn't justified. But I'm sure that many
of those who are complaining are still subscribers to the magazine. I
don't think one ad would cause too many people to give up their
subscriptions, after all, when it comes to reading a magazine, you have to
take the good with the bad. In addition to that, there aren't too many
other magazines out there that cater to small sports cars like ours and
small beater cars like Honda's.
Just my $0.02.
Michael Kline
'90 Talon TSi AWD
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 18:17:18 -0500
Subject: DynoMax UltraFlo Exhausts? : Part II
Message-ID: <#5>
[RTP]
Last follow up on the 2.5" DynoMax UltraFlo exhaust for (1G,T, AWD) cars.
1. Anyone actually loose low end torque with this system or any 2.5" exhaust
setup?
a. Anyone actually gain any low end with it?
2. Does this mod usually increase mid or top end power, or both?
3. Thats it..no more exhaust questions...Thanks guys.
Thanks,
Renegar '91 Tsi AWD
Finally w/ mods. (soon)
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 15:41:00 -0800
Subject: for sale: '90 wheels
Message-ID: <#6>
i have a set of 4 wheels from a '90 eclipse 16V DOHC. if anyone is
interested RTP.
or call 213-913-2345. make your best offer!
kahlil jackson
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 15:41:00 -0800
Subject: socal repair shops
Message-ID: <#7>
hi gang,
sometime ago, someone posted the name & number of a good repair shop
(not a satan). in the greater los angeles area. matter of fact, i think
it might have been in the valley area. i seem to recall the ph. number
area code being 818.
anyway, i can't find that info. i need to take my car to a good place
for servicing. i would greatly appreciate it if whoever posted that
info could do so again. i also ask others who feel pretty confident
about a good shop to do the same for the greater los angeles area (i.e.,
those that have 213, 818, 310 (or 562) and even 714 area codes).
thanks a bunch!
p.s. thanks! to dave archer. i got my wheels and they are fresh!!
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 17:46:00 -0600
From: Jarrod Igou <jigou@rconnect.com>
Subject: 1G NT Noise when cold...SURPRISE!
Message-ID: <#8>
Well, it may not be much of a surprise. My 90 Laser RS has started making a
bad noise when it's REALLY cold out (like below zero).
When I first start it, I get a loud rattling-type sound from the belt side
of the engine. Revving the engine to around 2500 or 3000 rpm makes the
sound go away...once the engine slows down, the noise comes back.
Today I investigated a little further, pushing and wiggling the timing belt
cover. The noise seemed to go away, but the car may have warmed up enough
by then.
At first I thought it was an exhaust leak that was making itself more
prominent when cold, but not any more. The general vicinity is making me
nervous...anyone else have this happen? Any ideas of what to check? I'm
wondering if the timing belt or related components are rubbing on the
cover. I plan to pull it off when I get home...but any other ideas are VERY
welcome.
Jarrod
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 18:54:42 -0500
Subject: PMS Unit (MAF) / Cobra (11.95)
Message-ID: <#9>
Well after finally finding enough time in my schedule to work on my car
and talking to Bill (Hahn Racecraft) and Doug (EFI Systems) we have
figured out why my car was running like crap with the PMS unit and MAF
installed. I kept thinking that I had a bad intake leak before the
manifold because the car would run FULL rich 99% of the time. I spent
many hours tightening everything down and still finding no leaks. It
seems that the MAF or the wiring harness is bad on the MAF. It was not
calibrated at all. I would have thought that to be the problem earlier,
but thought that if it was the problem an error code would pop-up on the
PMS and it never did. EFI Systems gets the MAF's from PRO-M here in
Michigan and it seems like PRO-M let a bad one get through their QC
department. Well I have shipped the MAF and sensor back to Doug and will
have the new one here in a few days. In the mean time, I have
re-installed my stock MAS and K&N Filter. WOW, now my PMS works!!! What
a difference with only slight tuning. I can't wait to get the MAF back
and installed. Well I had to change my plugs cause they were totally
shot! They were so black from running Rich that the car barely ran. Also
I have a question. Can the o2 sensor be ruined from running too rich
like plugs can? My o2 sensor now seems to be a little slower reacting.
Well I am just glad that the unit is working now for me:-)
In Turbo magazine they have an article on a '96 Cobra that Kenne Bell
worked on. The car with slicks ran a 11.95 and on street tires ran a
12.71 @ 115mph. I am not at all a fan of Mustangs or the F-bodys, but
this black Cobra looks very nice. The larger hood and wider wheels make
this thing look potent.
Joe Jankord
-----------------------------Date:
Thu, 30 Jan 1997 17:34:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: for sale [1g]
Message-ID: <#11>
My friend has the following items for sale from his 90:
PMS computer: brand new...never been used...he's selling for $1500.
GAB front strut tower bar: used....make an offer.
The reason why he's selling is because he's sorry and he wants to quit
racing. (he has a baby on the way)
Let me know if interested.
Anthony
-----------------------------Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 20:41:14 EST
From: Al.McKechnie@aquila.com (Al McKechnie)
Subject: 1G NT New Road Rat
Message-ID: <#12>
This 1992 non-turbo Talon is my first go fast car since I sold my 63 and 76
Corvettes. After driving it for the last three weeks, no more Corvettes.
I am sold on Talon. Put the Chrysler high performance muffler system on it
and the gas mileage went from 31 to 33 miles to a gallon on the toll road.
Next the air filter goes to a K&N setup. Chrysler really has a chance to
build a long term cult following with this series of cars, but it sure seems
like they don't care. Will in all probabilities be looking for a lot of
help down the road with this car but I sure lucked out finding it. For any
one interested the Plymouth, Jeep Eagle dealer, Riverfront, in North Aurora
Illinois has good mechanics, intelligent service personnel, good parts
department and they don't treat you like some form of pond slime because you
ask questions. Try them you will like it. Back at you chaps later.TTFN
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 01:36:08 -0500 (EST)
From: CheezeFrog@aol.com
Subject: CA Exhaust/Muffler Laws
Message-ID: <#13>
I forgot who asked the question about having an aftermarket exhaust,
but the answer can be found by looking it up in the CA Vehicle
Code. Just point yer browser to
http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/cgi-bin/calawquery?codesection=veh&codebody=
Funny thing is, it says you can't have a system which amplifies the
noise of the exhaust. I don't know of ANY systems which are capable
of amplifying an exhaust note. Doesn't say anything about a muffler
that may not dampen the sound as well as an OEM muffler though.
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 01:49:33 -0500
Subject: [1g, T] Pillar Mount
Message-ID: <#14>
Hi again,
As I am sitting here thinking how nice it would be to get that
ftermarket boost gauge and Cyberdine Air/Fuel guage, I was thinking
where it would mount. First I would get the boost gauge and I was
planning on using a pillar mount. Later I would like to get the
Cyberdine, but where would I put that? So I thought about the dual
pillar. I have seen the single one (on the DSS Site, I think) and I
like it, but what does the dual look like? Are the gauges stacked on
top of each other, or side by side? Does it look to bulky for that
area?
Mike
91 Laser RS-T
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 6:31:59 CST
From: Bill Lawrence <wel@apwk01g3.abrfc.noaa.gov>
Subject: lots of things
Message-ID: <#15>
hey all,
Got the followin email this morning. Apparantly someone saw my times on
dragnet. I really wish I could talk to this guy.(jerk)
>How many hair-dryers (and U.S. dollars[read:BUY AMERICAN])does that take?
>Does your car have one of those tailpipes with 2 inchs of diameter for
>every liter of your engine's displacement?
>Where do you get the rice oops fuel with enough octane to calm what
>certainly must be an unstreetable tendency to ping and knock?
>Do you say things like "DUDE! its so FAST!" ?
>Are valves more bragged upon than cylinders?
>p.s. i have more insulting ?'s but i've got to go and try to convert
>other "euro-racers" (GTi's, CRX's, Talons ect...)
>remember, BUY AMERICAN SAVE MONEY RETAIN STREETABILITY LESS
ATTRITION
funny hah....
>Just wanted to know what happened to the listing of qualified
>individuals willing to do some DSM upgrade work for an affordable
>[Check the web page, under Club DSM Search. -talon mgr]
Todd, thanks for puttin up the list...however I think its way too difficult
to obtain this list (with password and all). If I needed the list in
a hurry...last thing I would want to do is sign up...get a password...etc.
In fact...I wanted to look at the list the other day and cant remember
my password. In fact...I forgot my login too. This is too cumbersome
in my opinion.
[The thing is - phone numbers are available there, and some members want
their phone number protected from the masses. Also, part of that is
broken right now. If you do an Update Account and it asks for a login,
tell it "Remember? Yes". Then go back to the emergency section - you won't
have to type your password in again. -talon mgr]
> OK, I test drove a 97' GSX and yeah, it's fun to drive. Frankly,
>though, I'm kinda leery about buying a car that, judging by this group
>and the FAQs, has had a crappy gearshift for years, is always breaking
>down, and is serviced by a company routinely known as Satan. Is it just
>that people with negative comments are more likely to post?
I can't speak for the 2nd gen DSMs, but overall, the 1990 DSMs are
for a first year model, an outstanding car. I had well over 110k of
miles on mine with hundreds of passes at the drag strip running deep
into the 12s before I ever had any problems. Thats probably why I
still own it. (own 3 in fact) I do agree that DSM should have
redesigned the trannies tho.
HAnk said
> guys, WE NEED MORE EVENTS! (hehe)
well, I doubt that will happen. When only 20 cars show up at Temple
Texas, and Alamo looses lots of money renting the track, dsm events
will become few and far between....like 1 a year in Ohio.
bill
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 08:07:16 -0500 (EST)
From: ARTIS LANARD BEATTY <alb4809@email.unc.edu>
Subject: 2G water in a headlight
Message-ID: <#16>
I have a 95 Talon Esi. Recently I have noticed that water is collecting
in the right headlight. I am wondering if anyone else is having this type
of problem or if there is anyway that I can correct it as my car is out of
warranty.
Artis
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 31 Jan 97 08:04:41 EST
From: juanb@VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: Re: Comment (Semi-long)
Message-ID: <#17>
> OK, I test drove a 97' GSX and yeah, it's fun to drive. Frankly,
> though, I'm kinda leery about buying a car that, judging by this group
> and the FAQs, has had a crappy gearshift for years, is always breaking
> down, and is serviced by a company routinely known as Satan. Is it just
> that people with negative comments are more likely to post?
<soapbox on>
Randy, that's exactly it. If everyone here were to post only their
positive experience and not problems and how they solved them, or to
ask for help, what would be the benefit? At last count, there's
something like 1800 members in the club, but the majority don't have
any problems so they may not post, but they definitely learn something
new everyday thru the experience others have had. Plus, if you ever
do have something go wrong, who would you rather listen to, a group of
people who may have had the exact same problem and know exactly what's
wrong or your dealer who may say "Sorry, I couldn't recreate the
noise"? Don't underestimate the benefit of having all these voices
when you need them.
How do you know other cars out there don't have more problems? Answer:
you probably don't because there's no unified group of people who share
the same interest and can tell you if a problem is widespread or an
isolated incident. With this ammunition, you can go to a dealer and say
"I know 9 people who own this car and have this problem and this is
what the dealer did to fix it." Unless you know a bunch of owners of
any other car you're considering, you're just an individual to the
dealer and really have no way of knowing whether what they tell you is
the truth or what's more convenient for them. There's strength in
numbers and I for one am extremely grateful for Todd's efforts as well
as all the other contributor's to the digest and on IRC.
<soapbox off>
Juan (juanb on IRC)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 08:40:24 -0500
From: rich <rich@dvol.com>
Subject: [1g,T] Turbo Wanted
Message-ID: <#18>
I'm looking for a stock bolt-on Turbo for my 90 Talon Tsi AWD.
Please E-mail if you have one available.
Thanks,
Woodsman@dvol.com
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 06:03:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Ron Sinclair <wigglit@earthlink.net>
Subject: 2.5" TP wanted, Mike F., BOI/bracket racing (1G, T)
Message-ID: <#19>
Hi all!
Once again, it's been awhile since I posted and this might stretch into a
long one. Here goes:
1. Wanted: 2.5" testpipe for 1g AWD (91). I've scanned the DSM Trader and
found 2 x 2.5" TPs that are up for grabs for $50 (if they haven't been sold
already). I'm still a newbie and don't know the "going" price for alot of
DSM performance parts......is this a good price?
2. Mike F's tranny woes:
I just started subscribing to Turbo magazine this month and am about to
cancel it already. I've been reading it since buying my Talon and decided
to subscribe to it since it's sorta hard to find at stores around here. But
I DON'T want to hear about Mike's Talon breaking all the time. In the last
few months, Mike has been laying it on pretty thick about how DSM trannies
suck. The first time I read about his tranny woes was fine.........the
second time, he added more complaining.......after that, it started getting
old.
This is my opinion: (1) He should find a new launch technique, (2) suck it
up and just realize that 11 sec qtr. mile times aren't easy to come by (no
matter what kind of car make you are modding), or (3) just sell the Talon
and get something that he thinks is more capable............just quit
bitchin'. Mike wants to have 11 sec timeslips?? If so, he should expect
things to break. After all, this isn't a cheap sport. Want advice, Mike?
You wanna play, you gotta pay. I don't know of ANY 11-sec-and-under guys
that haven't broken things to reach their current times.
Also, he keeps mentioning that DSMs have wussy trannies. With all the
aftermarket clutches that he's used, where did he come up with the tranny
being the weak link? What do all his tranny woes have in common?? THE
CLUTCHES THAT HE'S BEEN USING! Hmmmmm.....after every install, he
makes a
track run. During the test run, he states (example, pg 65 of March 97 ish)
that "the clutch gremlins showed their ugly faces as the car could barely
put in gear." My question is this: how does he expect the tranny to hold up
if the clutch won't even work in the first place?! All that power is just
floating around in the drivetrain........something has to give, and if the
clutch can't hold up, then what is next??? Logical guess for a non-engineer
type like me: tranny.
Let me know if my above assumptions are wrong guys! Bottom line: quit doing
experiments and blaming the trannies for your own mistakes, Mike.
Another thing that ticks me off is the way he prints all of this crap in his
mag. Media is a very powerful tool. I feel that he should NOT use the
media as a way to vent his anger on DSMs. Yes, I feel that he's angry and
frustrated about continually failing to get 11 sec timeslips. He's angry
and is posting the same crap every issue and slandering a good car make. He
shouldn't do that cuz we don't get enuff respect as it is. If he wants to
get the truth out to the public, he should do valid evaluations. Putting
100 different clutches into 1 DSM and then complaining to the public about
breakage is not a valid evaluation. Comparing similarily modded DSMs by
putting them to the same stringent tests is my definition of a fair
evaluation. He's putting all this crap about bad trannies into the mag
without even consulting true experts. I'll use my Turbo mags for toilet
paper from now on, thank you........that's all its good for. Cancel my new
subscription.
3. BOI/bracket racing: For the So Cal guys, where do I find applications
for participation in the March BOI. Also, I don't know the categories in
which i may be able to run......I know JACK about bracket racing and would
appreciate someone schooling me about how they are run ( is there a test
day, to find out what times you run and what bracket you qualify to run??).
I have a link to a bracket racing website on my page, but it doesn't answer
some of my questions. It just tells me things about the actual race and not
how the events are executed.
4. Texas guys, look out for me soon. When the wife's tour of duty ends in
August, we'll be moving to Ft. Hood most likely. I'll still have my car
then (seriously considering selling it for a truck and settling
down......we're considering a child) and would like to run the $%*@ out of
it before I have to sell/trade it. I won't be doing any major mods to it
since I'm considering selling it, so I'll probably be running 14s still.
14s is good enuff for me.
OK....I think I'm finished venting!
Thanx for the bandwidth!
Ron Sinclair
aka WIGGLIT
IRC nicks: SoCalDSM, Rice_God, RiCoSuAvE, IkE_TuRnEr, or just plain Ron :o)
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 09:17:08 -0500 (EST)
From: Michael Breslin <BRESLIN@kcgl1.eng.ohio-state.edu>
Subject: Taunteen
Message-ID: <#20>
O.K. so it may be spelled wrong, but a true "taunteen" is illegal anyway. Just
a thought, but is anyone interested in entering a pool for the worst mechanical
"how-the-@#%!-did-that-break; honest-Mr. Insurance-guy,-I wasn't-racing; Howthe-hell-am-I-going-to-get-home" part failure at the Shootout? I figure $5 a
piece, and we can all vote at the pizza-thing after words as to who takes the
prize (and gets their air fare home subsidized!). Winner takes all. You can't
win if you don't play. If all goes well and nothing breakes (ha!) we can donate
the money to charity, the list, or whatever we decide. Like I said, just a
thought.
That is all...
Brez!
90 Laser RS-T (just about to go out of warranty!)
-----------------------------Date:
Fri, 31 Jan 1997 9:29:08 CST
Subject: Grinding noise
Message-ID: <#21>
Allo,
>I turned the key again this time it started but i still
>heard that grinding noise again for a few secs and other than that the
>car ran fine. My question is this...is the problem serious?
The following may or may not be related to your problem but here goes.
I have an intermittent grinding sound which eminates from the manual
tranny. It is at times very loud, especially when it is cold outside.
The noise stops when I push in the clutch pedal. I had my tranny rebuilt
at around 65k. One of the reasons the dealer ageed to the rebuild was
that noise. After rebuilding the noise was still there. According to the
"tech", "oh yeah, I noticed that the counter rotating shaft looked a
little worn but wasn't worn enough to change." Me- "Since you had the
thing apart, why didn't you just change it under warranty like the other
parts?" Tech- "Well, because I didn't think it needed it." Me- "The
main reason you opened the tranny to look is because of the noise it's
still making, but you didn't fix that." Tech- "oh, well", shrug and
stand with a blank, deer-in-the-headlights look. Chrysler wouldn't
authorize further warranty repair to get the job done right and I wasn't
paying over $600 to have them "take a look".
Anyway, when you hear the noise (mine occurs usually when the car is
idling), push in the cluth pedal and see if the noise goes away and if
it comes back when you release it, do this check while in neutral.
If you can confirm this, then I can assure you after thousands of miles
of this occaisional noise there aren't any problems, expect for the damn
noise it makes, which sounds like your everything is grinding itself
away to nothing (which it may be:) )
Good luck.
Tome
-----------------------------Date:
Fri, 31 Jan 1997 09:38:58 -0600
From: "Bradley H. Lamont" <bradley_lamont@hp.com>
Subject: [2g,T] The saga of getting the whining noise fixed
Message-ID: <#22>
Hi All I bought my 95 GS-T in Sept 95. About a month after I got it, I noticed
the cold start whining. I took it Prospect Mitsubishi in Champaign, IL
where I was finishing up school and they said it was normal. They even
started a couple of other GS-T's to show me it affected all of them. So I
accepted it as normal and decided not to deal with it at the time.
Cut to Oct 96. Now I have a job and I am driving the car every day. The
whine is getting really annoying and I was reading about other people
having the same problem. So I take it into Max Madsen Mitsubishi in Downer
Grove, IL. They look it over, and tighten the belts. That of course
doesn't do anything to fix it. When I picked it up, I asked the service
guy to come out and listen to the whine. He says that's normal. I said no
way, and gave him the part numbers of the three parts that everyone else
was having replaced.
I asked to get the parts ordered and replaced on my car. He says fine, its
under warranty and he'll go ahead and order them for me.
A month later the parts finally come in. I set up an appointment and
brought the car in (this was right after Christmas). When I go to pick it
up, they said that they found a problem with the exhaust manifold and
tightened it, but they didn't replace the parts that I had asked for since
the problem had gone away.
Of course when I picked it up, it was still whining. I called they service
guy of the day over and he tried to convince me it was the turbo whining.
I said yeah right whatever and left, pretty pissed off.
At this point I considered it a challenge - I was not going to let the
dealership beat me.
I called the service manager the next Monday (it was on Friday) and
politely and assertively told him that I wanted my problem fixed. After
convincing him that his service was unsatisfactory, he agreed to rent a car
for me for a couple of days while they fixed my car.
So I dropped it off Mon evening. I went armed with printouts from other
members of the digest who had the same problem and the parts they had
replaced. I told him that other people had the same problem and these were
the parts they used to fix it. He just stuck the printout in his folder
with out ever looking at it.
They kept the car Tue and Wed, and I picked it up Wed night. They said
they had fixed the problem. I looked at the receipt and they had replaced
every part related to the timing system - about 5 or 6 parts total. And
then the manager says "It was probably only one or two parts but we didn't
know which ones so we replaced all of them."
And lo and behold, the problem has finally gone away.
So that is the entire story. I doubt it was too helpful, but I had a
chance to get it off my chest ;-) Bottom line, if you are having cold
start whining, demand that the dealer fix it and don't take no for an answer.
Brad
1995 GS-T
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 07:53:48 -0800 (PST)
From: "Bryan Warren" <quicken23@hotmail.com>
Subject: Fog/driving lamps
Message-ID: <#23>
This is directed toward anyone with a 95/96/97 Talon/Eclipse. Have any of you
tried upgrading the fog lamps on your cars? My stock lamps don't seem to
increase lighting by very much. I am looking into Catz MSX (multi surface
exquisite) and MSP (multi surface projector). Which are better? Which fit
better? Is there a difference, other than appearance, between amber or clear
lenses? (I know the amber ones cost more) Or what about PIAA 1400's? Some
opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Bryan '96 Tsi awd
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 09:53:16 +0000
From: sborders@nfinity.com
Subject: Tires and wheels, autox classing [2G]
Message-ID: <#24>
Howdy all,
I found out from the body shop that I should have my car back in two
weeks at the outside. So, as a Valentine's present to myself, I
picked up the T25 hybrid turbo upgrade (fuel pump and clutch to
follow shortly). That takes care of the horsepower side of my
upgrades, but I also want to upgrade the wheels and tires. I thought
I would go to 17" on the wheels, and use a lower profile tire
(probably Dunlop SP8000s, unless anyone can recommend something
better/cheaper). I would also like to buy autox tires for my stock
rims for this season . . . then, in the winter, the 17" wheels/
fair-weather tires get garaged, and the autox tires get swapped
off the stock rims for all-season tires.
So, I'm looking for wheel recommendations. I'm looking for an
understated (no gold, no teddy bears, etc) five-spoke wheel, but
something that is open enough to show off the brakes.
Bang-for-the-buck is definitely an issue . . . price is pretty
important, but so is quality (need a happy medium). Any vendor
suggestions and pointers to pics on the web greatly appreciated [rtp].
Also, this will be the first time that I've ever bought autox tires.
You Sunday racers out there: what have you had good luck with?
Since speedo accuracy doesn't matter at the track, should I use a
lower profile tire than with stock rims?
And, finally, does anyone have a '97 SCCA rulebook? I have no idea
what class I'll be pushed into with the turbo upgrade. [please rtp]
Thanks for any help,
Scott Borders
24 days without my Talon, and counting :(
'96 Talon TSi AWD
IRC nick: Tortoise
-----------------------------Date: Fri, 31 Jan 1997 10:11:46 CST
Subject: comments
Message-ID: <#25>
>"Is it just that people with negative comments are more likely to
>post?"
Randy, isn't that obvious? This is a forum to discuss problems,
solutions, and modifications, with the occaisional social volley-ball of
commentary. It ain't so bad. :)
I'll agree with you, it seems the 2nd gen cars have been plaqued by more
than their far share of troubles. And that ain't right.
Overall though, there are many more positives than negatives in this
forum.
How 'bout this?
Hey guys,
Well the Laser started great today and warmed up smoothy. I didn't hear
the obnoxious grinding rattle from the tranny. I think my MPG is up
after fixing that misprinted info on vac hoses for the EGR.
I washed the car last night and even after two weeks of slush, salt,
cold and snow, the finish looks damn good for a 6 year old car with 96k
miles.
All true.
C-Ya!
Tome
-----------------------------Date: 31 Jan 1997 10:52 EST
From: "Tony Hewitt" <thewitt@nortel.ca>
Subject: Air fuel ratio gauge, Rendez-vous video
Message-ID: <#26>
A friend of mine who I forward this list to has a few questions about
air/fuel ratio gauges:
Would someone please clarify the following for me:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
How does an Air/Fuel ratio gauge work ?
How do you connect it in your car ?
Where do you get one ?
How much d

From bouncer Wed Jan 1 12:54:50 1997

Transcription

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