international jewellery - CIJ Jewellery Magazine

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INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY
in association with
EDITOR’S LETTER
International Perspectives
Over the last few years, Couture International Jeweler has
undergone a number of changes. As part of its most recent
transformation, I am delighted to say that I have been brought
back as Editor-in-Chief, a position I previously held until mid2004.
And that’s just the beginning. The title is changing to the name
that the magazine was born with in Geneva, Switzerland more
than 35 years ago: International Jewellery. We will, however,
still maintain our strong and important affiliation with the Couture
Show, as well as remaining its official trade publication.
Perhaps the most important change for our readers and
advertisers is that the magazine is, once again, the only
jewellery trade publication with a truly global reach. Mailed along
with its sister publication, Europa Star, the world’s most read
and respected watch magazine, International Jewellery has
guaranteed postal delivery to high-end retailers and key buyers,
not just in North America, but also in Europe, the Middle East,
Asia, and Latin America.
In addition to this vast distribution network, comes a new
international website dedicated to the world of haute joaillerie
and luxury creations - www.cijintl.com - première launch for the
Las Vegas Show.
For Brands, this means that your international exposure to the
right buyers is virtually unlimited. For Retailers, it means that you
will always be on top of the hottest international trends—trends
that are set around the globe. Today’s high-end consumers travel,
and their tastes often reflect what they see in cities as diverse
as London, Paris, Tokyo, New York, Rome, Dubai, Beijing, Rio, or
Madrid. Not only will you be able to anticipate these trends, but
provide your sophisticated clientele the Brands they want.
Along with IJ’s focus on international distribution comes the
ability to provide an international perspective on the luxury jewellery industry—and it’s a focus we take very seriously. As this
issue goes to press, I am in China for an international conference—but more about that in the next issue. While China is usually
thought of as a supplier of jewellery (of all qualities), its domestic market is potentially one of the world’s largest consumers of
fine jewellery. This fact has not gone unnoticed by the large luxury groups that have already established a foothold in the nation,
with more high-end Brands moving into this dynamic market every month.
To provide you with an international perspective, we feature trends from around the world and the designers who are setting
these trends. We are bringing back our signature “Trends & Colours” section, showing the latest designs and the hottest
colours of the seasons, as well as a new “In the Press” section highlighting the jewellery that is being worn and talked about by
celebrities. “Success Stories” takes a look at successful retailers around the globe, what they are doing to remain that way in
these challenging economic times, and the Brands they carry.
And we are not stopping there. International Jewellery will also continue bonus distribution at the world’s most important
international fairs, such as the three editions of Vicenza, Couture in Las Vegas, BaselWorld, and Hong Kong, among others.
Put it all together and the new International Jewellery is your single source for what’s hot and what’s not—from an international
perspective to your own hometown.
All my best for a profitable summer.
Cynthia
Cynthia Unninayar
Editor-in-Chief
Vicolo dei sarmati, 1/A - 15048 Valenza (AL) - Italy
tel. (+) 39 0131 946665 - fax (+) 39 0131 946095
e-mail: andreoli@andreoli-gioielli.com
www.andreoli-gioielli.com
Presenti alle fiere di: BASILEA - NEW YORK - LAS VEGAS (Couture JCK) - VICENZA
IN THIS ISSUE
On the Cover
Pendant in the new
“Dagger” collection
by John Galliano.
14
Cover Feature
on page 14
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INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY
www.johngallliano.com
in association with
02
www.operajewels.com
Editor’s Letter
22
Global Perspectives
10
In the Press
26
Who’s Wearing What
12
Retrospective
Grace Kelly and Cartier
– The Princess and the Jeweller
14
Cover Feature
The Gems of John Galliano
16
Must See’s in Las Vegas
Selected brands from around the world
at the summer shows in Las Vegas.
22
Couture Spotlight
French Elegance at Couture
12
in this issue
Trends & Colours
24
26
28
30
The Power of Purple
Eternal Sunshine
Circular Reasoning
Creatures of the Deep
32
Industry Focus
Fair Fare & Fashion
36
48
BaselWorld 2009 – Mixed Results
OroArezzo – Signs of Confidence
52
Success Stories
Louis Anthony Jewelers
– Finding One’s Personal Style
50
Opera Jewels – The Sounds of Success
16
18
56 Freely Speaking
A Few Words from Roberto Coin
56
54 Index
36
32
Afrika Collection
in the press
Who’s wearing what?
A glimpse of fine jewellery on the red carpet and in the press.
10
Eva Mendes in Van Cleef & Arpels at the Golden
Globes. (Photo credit: Jen Lowery, startraks
photo)
Cristina Aguilar at the Oscars wearing
jewellery by Stephen Webster.
Taraji P. Henson wore a bracelet and earrings
from the Sunrise collection by H.Stern at the 2009
Screen Actors Guild.
Sophia Loren wears jewellery from the Damiani
Sophia Loren collection on the red carpet at the
2009 Academy Awards.
At a recent event, Her Majesty, Queen Rania
of Jordan, wore a variety of white and black
diamond gold jewellery by Gurhan.
During Monaco’s Rose Ball in March, Charlotte
Casiraghi wore a pair of earrings and a snake ring
in white gold and diamonds by Repossi.
retrOspeCtiVe
grace Kelly and cartier – the Princess and the Jeweller
As a tribute to Princess Grace of Monaco and a reminder of the historical
links that have existed between Cartier and the Principality of Monaco since
1920, the Cartier creations owned by Princess Grace make up a special
exhibition at the National Museum of Tokyo, from March 28 to May 31, 2009.
prince rainier iii and Grace Kelly in paris, before
the Cartier boutique on the rue de la paix. (photo
credit: Jack nisberg/roger-Viollet)
poodle brooch in white gold, platinum, diamonds,
rubies, and onyx, 1958. A paw and the tail are
movable. (photo credit: the royal palace of
Monaco Archives)
12
hen brooch in gold, platinum, diamonds, mother-ofpearl, pearls, and coral, with an emerald cabochon
for the eye, 1957. (photo credit: the royal palace
of Monaco Archives)
her last appearance on the big screen, Grace
Kelly wore her Cartier engagement ring, with a
10.47-carat emerald-cut diamond, in the film high
society by Charles Walters, 1956. (photo credit:
Dennis stock/Magnum photos)
princess Grace of Monaco wore a Cartier necklace
in platinum and diamonds, a wedding present,
during a reception in philadelphia in 1963. (photo
credit: Jack rosen, time Magazine/Getty)
three brooch-clips in yellow gold, platinum,
diamonds, and rubies (49 carats), designed to be
attached to a tiara, 1955. (photo credit: the royal
palace of Monaco Archives)
GR10510
COUTURE SHOW
Las Vegas · USA
booth 277
COVER feATURE
The Gems of
The most influential fashion designer of his generation,
John Galliano has an exceptional flair for the theatrical—his
runway shows are often likened to performance art. Now,
his unrestrained sense of fantasy and drama can be found
in his new collection of fine jewellery.
John Galliano
Exotic backdrops are the norm
for John Galliano’s fashion
shows. Here the model is
wearing a “Dagger” pendant.
By Cynthia Unninayar, Editor-in-Chief
“Flower” sapphire, white
coral, and diamond ring.
Earring in diamonds and
sapphires.
John Galliano launched his own fashion label in 1984,
creating historically-inspired designs infused with
a contemporary edge. Part romantic and part
rebel, Galliano’s trademark quickly became his
delicate bias-cut gowns and wonderfully
tailored suits. In 1987, the Gibraltar-born
designer won the first of several British
Designer of the Year awards. In 1990, he
moved from Britain to Paris, and in 1995,
he was hired to revitalize the stuffy house
of Givenchy, greatly surprising the French
fashion establishment with his romantic
vision of dishevelled lovelies in chiffon
slips and billowing gowns. The following
year, Galliano became chief designer at Dior, France’s
haute couture flagship, a position he still holds in addition
to managing his own brand.
Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, the house of
John Galliano is launching its fine jewellery collection in the
United States with stunning new pieces that capture
the fashion and fantasy of Galliano’s spirit. The pieces
are designed by Galliano himself and are produced in
collaboration with noted Italian jeweller Valente Milano
and distributed by Opera Jewels.
“People want to invest in the dream, in the name, so I
have kept our inspiration true to the essence of Galliano. We have
combined beauty, romance, and adventure—all the things I love—
into our three key themes,” explains John Galliano. “Jewellery is an
investment in craftsmanship, rather than following trends. I wanted to
develop three themes that are very much part of the Galliano DNA—
the dagger, the flower, and the coin.”
The Dagger collection
“I am an adventurer,” Galliano says. “Travel is one of
my greatest inspirations. I like to think of myself
as a pirate of life. The dagger is a very Galliano
symbol of bravery, courage, daring, and dazzle.”
“Dagger” signet ring with white and black diamonds
and pink sapphires in white gold.
14
JOHN galliano
Following his research into pirate treasure chests and ending with
the famous dagger of Topkapi, Galliano created a Dagger collection
that features a white gold signet ring, inset with black and white
diamonds and blood red rubies, as well as Dagger earrings in white
gold, inset with black and white diamonds. Among the necklaces is a
classic strand piece inspired by an English rose garden—thorns and
beauty—complete with pirate pearls, white and black diamonds, and
red rubies, supporting a dagger with a drop of ruby red blood at its tip.
The Flower collection
For the romantic feminine side of Galliano, he created a beautiful
Flower collection. “I love sending and receiving flowers. I wanted to
capture the delicacy and romance of flowers in bloom,” he muses.
“Now, I have a collection that has blossomed into diamonds, sapphires,
and gold—it’s so Galliano.” The pieces include a pink flower ring,
delicate earrings, and small pendants in white gold, pink sapphire
pavé, and diamonds. Large stones on the main flower nestle on
petals of tourmaline, rhodolite, and amethyst. A small central flower
is made of blue sapphires and is set off with a glittering Galliano G
set in diamonds on the chain.
“Dagger” pendant with pirate pearls,
white and black diamonds, pink sapphires,
and a drop of ruby red blood at its tip.
The Coin collection
“Another symbol of adventure, travel, of riches lost and riches found,
the coin reminds me of my childhood, of far away lands and treasures
to be found,” adds Galliano. A symbol of exchange and of passage
from one person to another, a coin has its own life, its own story. The
Coin collection features rings and pendants. In some of the rings, the
Galliano coat of arms is engraved on a silver or jet coin set in yellow
gold. An oversized silver coin pendant with black diamonds hangs
from a yellow gold chain, with onyx stones and “knots” in the chain.
Clearly, these lovely John Galliano Coins are too precious to use for
stamping a wax-sealed treasure map.
Fashion’s great romantic
“I am thrilled the jewellery line is growing and attracting attention. I
think it shows another side to Galliano. I love that we are creating
treasure of our own,” concludes John Galliano. The success
of both his fashion and jewellery lines is not surprising
since John Galliano is one of fashion’s great romantics.
From his fantastical outfits to his colourful background and
personality, Galliano’s rise to fame is like a fairy tale. His
genius is his ability to communicate this romanticism
through his clothes, and now also through The
Gems of John Galliano. (www.johngalliano.com,
www.operajewels.com)
“Dagger” earrings in white gold,
white and black diamonds, and
pink sapphires.
John Galliano’s F/W 09 show was pure
theatre, the creation of a fantasy world
in the frozen wastes of Balkan folklore,
complete with “snow” falling on the runway.
“Coin” ring with the John Galliano coat of
arms on the top of a jet coin set in pink
gold with sapphires, also available with a
silver coin in white gold.
15
Las Vegas Summer Shows
Must See’s in Las Vegas
Between the trade shows of Couture and JCK Las Vegas, as well as the other smaller fairs,
there are enough talented and creative designers and brands to keep everyone dashing from
place to place. On these pages, we are showcasing a few brands exhibiting in Las Vegas
that are definitely worth a visit. They represent designers from around the world, which offer
various international perspectives on the art of fine jewellery and related products.
A few Must See pieces in Las Vegas…
16
DeGrisogono: Ring in pink gold set with a 26.07-carat
rubellite, 272 brown diamonds, 26 white diamonds, and
234 emeralds. Couture Chamber 1
Valente Milano: ‘Althea’ ring in white gold with
gemstones, and diamond and sapphire pavé, part
of a collection also featuring pendants and earrings.
Couture 336
Faber Castell: Graf von Faber-Castell Limited Edition.
Pen of the Year 2009. Roughly 70 individually hand-woven
horsehairs provide an alternating dark and light texture,
forming a fascinating contrast to the cool platinum-plated
metal parts. Couture 100
Jaeger LeCoultre: The goddess of love is the muse
of this Master Minute Repeater. The dial is decorated
with a stunning interpretation of Venus in the form of an
enamelled miniature depicting ‘The Birth of Venus’ by
Botticelli. Couture VL203
INFO@ZALEMARK.COM
1.800.949.9809
Las Vegas summer shows
18
Carl F. Bucherer Fine Swiss Watches: This ‘Alacria
Diva Gothic’ model sparkles with diamonds and
sapphires, features an ETA quartz movement, white
gold case, and galuchat bracelet. Couture VL101
Joaillerie de France: French brands Umane, Mathon,
and Joïa present uniquely different styles of jewellery.
‘Pebble’ ring in yellow gold by Umane. ‘Iceberg’ ring
featuring a 46.72-carat green beryl by Mathon Paris.
‘Cachemire’ necklace featuring pink beryls, tourmalines,
smoky quartz, and diamonds by Joïa. Couture 228
Jewelmer: This company features loose natural golden
pearls as well as finished jewellery such as this ‘Petite
Fleur’ necklace in yellow gold with golden pearls, motherof-pearl, and diamonds. JCK 10054
Green G.: Designer Sabina Lee creates a variety of
gemstone pieces including these earrings from the
‘Endless Love’ collection in purple sapphires, with black
and white diamonds in white gold.
JCK Design Center 18152
Travel Through
Time and Culture
Couture LaTour Ballroom
Booth 349
Lois Hill Accessories 1 West 37th Street New York, N.Y. 10018
1-888-loishil
www.loishill.com
Las Vegas Summer Shows
Breuning: Suite of gold earrings, ring, and pendant
in the ‘Honeymoon’ Collection set with a variety of
gemstones in various colours.
Luxury by JCK 328, JCK PC 21
Jades by David Lin: High quality purple jade and
diamond earrings are among the many colours and
styles of jade offered by David Lin.
JCK Design Center 23148
20
Picchiotti: High jewellery necklace of diamonds and
exquisite blue sapphires in white gold in the ‘Cascades’
collection. JCK 24
Bergio: Fluid and airy bangle in pink gold and diamonds
in the ‘Safari’ collection, that also features earrings,
rings, and pendants. JCK 24121-GP couture spotlight
French elegance
AT Couture
Under the collective label, “Joaillerie de France,” three outstanding French brands
are exhibiting at Couture for the first time—Joïa, Mathon, and Umane.
By T.R. Flora, Contributing Editor
The “Joaillerie de France” collective brand certifies that products stamped with this hallmark have been
designed, manufactured, assembled, set, and polished in France, with respect for the traditional “Stateof-the-Art” rules of French jewellery manufacturing and in compliance with the legal, social, ethical, and
environmental standards. Among the criteria that distinguish French jewellery are creativity, excellence,
and savoir-faire, thus making these precious jewels unique. Joïa, Mathon, and Umane will be showcasing
their creations at the Joaillerie de France booth #228 at the 2009 Couture show at the Wynn Hotel in
Las Vegas, May 28 to June 2.
“Palmyre” pendant in diamonds
and white gold by Joïa.
The jewellery of Joïa is designed to evoke love and passion. The
curvaceous and sensual—and sometimes abstract—forms are animated
by a flowing stream of precious gemstones and diamonds. The creator
of these precious pieces is Jean-Pierre Moreira who, after working
many years for one of Lyon’s most respected jewellers, opened his own
atelier in 1998. “My muse is the woman with a romantic sensitivity and
a very feminine look, whose spirit is faithfully embodied in the jewels,”
explains Moreira, who nourishes his inspiration with travels to Brazil,
Sri Lanka, and India in search of the perfect coloured gemstones.
Joïa’s collections have been well received by retailers around
the world whose clients are seeking high quality, unique, and
contemporary pieces with a feminine and luxurious flair.
(www.joia.fr, joia@joia.fr)
“Passiflore” ring in purple and
pink sapphires with diamonds in
white gold by Joïa.
“Anae” necklace
in green tourmalines and
diamonds
in white gold by Joïa.
22
“Fleur de Corail” necklace in
white gold, diamonds,
aquamarines, and opals
by Mathon.
Mathon Paris jewellery represents a subtle alliance of
contemporary, classic, sensual, elegant, and original
designs. Inspired by Nature and the arts, the colourful
designs enhance the beauty of the stones. Founded in 1931
as a workshop that manufactured for renowned international
brands, the company launched its own collection in the 1970s.
In 2007, Mathon received formal recognition as a “Living
Heritage Company” by the French government. It is now run by
Frederic Mathon who has expanded the brand globally, with
distribution in North America, Japan, and Europe. The collections
range from whimsical to classic contemporary to one-of-a-kind and
exclusive pieces. As John Thompson, of Atlanta-based jeweler
Mednikow, says, “They have been attracting a lot of attention. Our
patrons love the fanciful and fantastic colors from Mathon. Just
slip one of Mathon’s frog or turtle rings on a client and watch their
eyes light up! We are excited to have this collection at our store.”
(www.mathon-paris.com, dnavarro@mathon-paris.com)
“Hippocampe” pendant/brooch in
white gold, diamonds, coloured
sapphires, opals, emerald, and
tourmalines by Mathon.
“Coriandre” earrings in white
gold, diamonds, Paraiba and
green tourmalines by Mathon.
“Pebble” earrings in white gold,
hand-carved onyx, and diamonds
by Umane.
“Bo Pise” earrings in ebony,
gold, silver, diamonds, and
green tourmaline by Umane.
Large “Pebble” ring in white
gold, hand-carved onyx,
green tourmalines, and
diamonds by Umane.
Umane, a soft and gentle name that suggests force and vital energy,
is a company focused on innovative jewellery. The brand is young
but partners Valerie Brun and Maé Jund have complementary talents
and share a passion for excellence and for shaking up traditional
codes with daring designs. Inspiration comes mainly from Nature
and its eternal lifecycle. Organic shapes, subtle ranges of tones
suggesting the rhythm of the seasons, unconventional materials,
airy movements, and feminine sophistication are all part of the
collection, evoking comments from their Japanese distributor,
Takenakashouten Co. Ltd., such as: “I understood immediately
that Umane pieces were created by women—they are sensual,
tactile, and subtle,” or “My clients adore the Bo Pise earrings
because they are so visual, ethnically inspired, and
contemporary. They are a real bestseller,” or “The Pebble
earrings are simple, chic, and can be worn day or night.”
(www.umane-paris.com, valeriebrun@umane-paris.com,
mae.jund@umane-paris.com)
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T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S
1
4
5
1.
2
2
THE POWER
OF PURPLE
Derived from mixing a strong cool
color with a strong warm color, purple
evokes both cool and warm feelings, a
complexity that we don’t find in a single
primary color. Purple—a complex color
for our complex times.
3
7
6
1. White gold and amethyst earrings by Mattia Cielo
(Italy). 2. Gold, amethyst, and pearl brooch by Bielka
(USA). 3. Dress by Tadashi S/S 2009. (Photo courtesy
of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week) 4. White gold, diamond,
and amethyst pendant by Color Story (USA). 5. White
gold, diamond, and amethyst earrings by Bruner (Brazil).
6. Platinum and amethyst ring by Fillner (Germany).
7. White gold, diamond, and amethyst ring by Samra (Dubai).
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8
13
10.
9
10
14
11
11.
12
8. Pink gold, diamond, and amethyst earrings by Casato (Italy). 9. Lavendar jade necklace with
gold and diamond clasp by David Lin (USA). 10. White gold, diamond, and amethyst earrings
by Vianna (Brazil). 11. Pink gold, diamond, and amethyst ring by Giovanni Ferraris (Italy).
12. Felt and sequin purse by Dots Creations. 13. Pink gold and amethyst bracelet by
Roberto Coin (Italy). 14. Dress by Carolina Herrera F/W 2009 (Photo courtesy of
Mercedes Benz Fashion Week).
25
T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S
31
1
2
4
1
Eternal
Sunshine
5
From the hottest sunflower shades to
the palest buttery tones, yellow is a
warm color that evokes sunshine and
happiness. The natural gems of citrine,
sapphire, tourmaline, and diamond
provide the perfect colour for the
summer months.
6
6
6
1. Citrine and diamond brooch by Manak Couture (USA). 2. Citrine and
diamond earrings by Bruner (Brazil). 3. Citrine and gold “Sunrise” earrings by
H.Stern (Brazil). 4. Outfit by Terexov F/W 2009 (Photo courtesy of Mercedes
Benz Fashion Week). 5. Yellow and white diamond ring by Cherie Dori (USA).
6. Gold, diamond, and tourmaline ring by Tamara Comolli (Germany).
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10
7
9
7
8
11
13
12
14
7. Citrine and gold “Dreamcatcher” earrings by Iosi (Italy). 8. Yellow and white diamond
necklace by Daniel K (USA). 9. Citrine, diamond, and gold pendant by Rahaminov (Israel).
10. Citrine and tourmaline earrings by DeGrisogono (Switzerland). 11. Yellow and white
diamond ring by Gumuchian (USA). 12. Outfit by Kevan Hall S/S 2009 (Photo courtesy
of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 13. Gold and citrine ring by Marco Bicego (Italy).
14. Citrine and platinum pendant and ring by Bunz (Germany).
27
T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S
1
1
2
3
1
4
5
Circular
Reasoning
6
3
Philosophers like to say
that to understand reality, we
must understand the circle. We find
this elemental form in mathematics,
science, religion, psychology,
economics, art, and history. Yet
some of the circle’s most
beautiful expresions are
in jewellery.
1. Gold and diamond necklace by Leo Pizzo (Italy).
2. White gold and diamond circular earrings by Palmiero (Italy).
3. Square-faceted pearls and white gold pendant by Louis Golay
(Switzerland). 4. Dress by Pamela Roland S/S 2009 (Photo
courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 5. Gold, diamond,
and tourmaline pendant by Trésor (USA). 6. White gold, ruby,
and diamond circular earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal (India).
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6
8
7
9
10
12
11
13
7. Gold and diamond earrings by GL Paris (France). 8. Gold
and gemstone “Enlightened” pendant by Swarovski (Austria).
9. Circular necklace in sterling silver by Georg Jensen
(Denmark). 10. Circles within circles in these gold and pearl
earrings by Rosato (Italy). 11. Diamond and white gold pendant
by Cento (Italy). 12. Outfit by Adam F/W 2009 (Photo
courtesy of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week). 13. Gold and diamond
“Trinity” necklace by Cartier (France). 14. Silver and gilded bronze
necklace by Cesare Paciotti (Italy).
14
29
T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S
1
1
1
2
4
3
Creatures of
the Deep
5
One of the more whimsical trends for this
summer season involves creatures of the deep,
with charming seahorses leading the charge.
At the water’s edge, we also find frogs,
turtles, and other forms of marine life.
1. Opal, diamond, and gold turtle brooch by Cristofol for
Marchak (France). 2. Fantasy fish brooch in sapphires,
pearls, diamonds, and gold by Autore (Australia).
3. Octopus ring in white gold and diamonds by Scavia (Italy).
4. Sapphire, tourmaline, and diamond frog pins by Goldiaq (India).
5. White gold and diamond frogs resting on a lily pad ring in gold
and tsavorite by MVee (Hong Kong). 6. Gold, sapphire, and
diamond fish pendant by Rodney Rayner (England).
30
6
10
7
9
8
12
11
13
7. Gold, garnet, and diamond crab pendant by Nafco (USA).
8. Whimsical marine life charm bracelet by Aaron Basha (USA).
9. Sapphire, diamond, and pink gold seahorse by Pierez Design (Italy).
10. Secret Duo Amphitrite” watch in pink gold with princess, round, and
baguette cut diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels (France). 11. Gown with
fish motifs by Leila Hafzi S/S 2009 (Photo courtesy of Mercedes Benz
Fashion Week). 12. Diamond, enamel, and gold fish rings by Porrati (Italy).
13. Sapphire, diamond, and gold starfish brooch by AVeVA (France).
14. Baroque pearl embellished with gold, diamonds, and gemstones by
Mario Buzzanca (Italy).
14
31
Industry Focus
Opera
Jewels
Valente Milano’s Aeterna choker
made of fancy coloured and
white diamonds and 18K gold,
winner of the prestigious 2008
Town & Country award in the
Haute Couture category.
The Sounds
of Success
Like the magnificence of a Puccini aria, Opera Jewels
radiates with passion, elegance, and innovation. While
so many distributors struggle to stay alive, this six-yearold company is soaring to new heights.
By Diana S. Zimmerman, Special Features Editor
“In this erratic and critical economic period,” states Opera’s
co-founder, Massimo Zerbini, “when so many companies are
afraid to invest in developing and creating solid relationships with
customers, Opera Jewels is strengthening its commitment with
presence, support, and innovation. Our goal is to become—for every
customer—an important strategic partner in their success.”
Founded in 2003 by Massimo Zerbini and Andrea Medri, Opera
Jewels was born on the beautiful Caribbean island of St. Martin and
is now based in Miami Beach, Florida. The two founders knew that
to differentiate themselves, they needed to be truly innovative—not
Massimo Zerbini, co-founder just in the way they approach business, but with the brands they
would represent. Their search led them to Valente Milano, and in
of Opera Jewels.
2004, Opera Jewels became the exclusive distributor for this highly
creative Italian brand.
“Valente’s jewelry has similar qualities of artistic spirit
and refinement that reflect Opera’s philosophy,”
Zerbini explains. “It is the perfect match.” Opera
Jewels put Valente in the spotlight and helped
Sapphire, diamond, and 18K
white and pink gold necklace
and ring by IoSi.
Gold, enamel, and diamond
bangles from the “Images
from India” collection
by Nouvelle Bague.
32
it achieve worldwide status as a contemporary couture jewelry
brand. With Zerbini’s strategic focus on brand positioning
and strong distribution channels, demand for Valente has
skyrocketed.
“Our strategy underlines Opera’s commitment as a
solid financial investor, even during this recessionary
economic phase,” Zerbini insists. “It puts the emphasis on
marketing, distribution, and staff to build brand awareness and
equity.” Without question, Opera Jewels is responsible for much
of Valente’s newfound success. In 2008, at the Couture Show
in Las Vegas, the brand won the “Town and Country Couture
Award.” Always the visionary, Zerbini’s precise positioning of the
brand’s unique style, as well as placing a renewed emphasis on
the intrinsic value of Italian craftsmanship, has been win-win for
both companies.
“Equally as important to our success,” he adds, “is our ability
to find and work with the finest jewelry retailers.” This master
marketer’s goal includes a threefold plan: “First, to work closely
with each retailer; second, to help each retailer develop its
business; and third, to support our retailers with the highest
degree of customized service,” he explains.
Zerbini believes that this philosophy is a key factor in the
company’s remarkable success, and one that will continue to
allow it to attract and benefit other high-end brands. In March
of 2009, Opera began working with the prestigious DIT Group
for the distribution and marketing of Stefan Hafner, Nouvelle
Bague, IoSi, and Porrati in North and South America, as well
as the Caribbean. “We are very proud of this important new
partnership,” he states.
Another important new partnership for Opera Jewels is with
the jewelry line of couture fashion designer John Galliano, whose
jewelry is made in collaboration with Valente. “We are very proud
to work closely with one of the icons of fashion,” says Zerbini.
“We believe that this collaboration will extend the creativity and
research with precious metals and stones to develop even more
unique jewelry collections.”
With a philosophy that is as passionate, elegant, and innovative
as Puccini’s music, Opera Jewels is redefining the sounds of
success, and Massimo Zerbini is the perfect marketing maestro
to make it happen. (www.operajewels.com)
Sapphire, diamond, and
18K gold “In Fiore” ring
by Stefan Hafner.
Pendant made of 18K
gold, sapphires, diamonds,
and jet in the “Dagger”
collection by John Galliano.
Sapphire, pearl, diamond,
-and 18K gold “Etoile”
necklace by Porrati.
33
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FAIR FARE & FASHION
Gemstone and diamond rings by Breguet (Switzerland).
Faceted square pearls and gold rings by Louis Golay (Switzerland).
BaselWorld 2009
Mixed Results
The world’s leading watch and jewellery trade show,
BaselWorld opened its doors on March 26 under a
cloudy, cold, and rainy sky. The dreary weather seemed to
reflect the initial mood of both exhibitors and visitors. Yet,
as the week progressed, patches of blue showed through
the clouds, a fitting symbol of the mixed results at this
important fair.
By Cynthia Unninayar, Editor-in-Chief
It is quite understandable that words such as “low expectations,” “difficult,”
“pessimistic,” “unprecedented,” and “unsettled times” were on the lips
of exhibitors in the jewellery halls at BaselWorld 2009. But at the same
time, those who came to showcase their latest wares were also “hopeful,”
expressing their “optimism” that the global economic meltdown would resolve
itself sooner than later.
Gemstone and
diamond earrings by
Brumani (Brazil).
By the numbers
When the show closed its doors eight days later, on April 2, a total of
93,900 visitors from across the globe had crossed its turnstiles—a
12 percent decline from the record number of 106,800 that the fair
attracted in 2008. Exhibitor numbers were down a little over 6 percent
at 1,952 this year compared to the 2087 that came to the last edition.
Given the times, however, these numbers were not totally unexpected.
Pink gold and diamond ring
by Daniel K (USA).
Diamond, gold, and enamel ring by Magerit (Spain).
36
Sliced rough diamonds,
faceted white and black
diamonds, and pearls make up
this “Fire and Ice” necklace
by Autore (Australia).
“Capri Plus” bracelet in yellow
gold with wood and diamonds by
Roberto Coin.
Diamond “Art Deco” bracelet
by Messika (France).
On a purely anecdotal note, it was clear that the
watch halls were busier than the jewellery halls—again
understandable since the jewellery sector has been hard
hit by the recession and the pending bankruptcies of
a number of U.S. retailers.
Yet, despite the lower visitor numbers this year,
many jewellery brands informally reported “better
than expected” results and promising new
contacts—welcome blue skies in the economic
gloom and doom. Some even reported doing
“great business” as buyers sought unusual or
more affordably priced designs and collections
for their stores.
Sylvie Ritter, Show Director, drew a positive
conclusion from the final results, “BaselWorld
2009 has shown that the watch and jewellery
industry is facing up to this difficult economic
situation in an extremely constructive way. The show
has successfully given the watch and jewellery industry
new momentum and, as a result, business has been
boosted.”
Gold and
diamond “Barcelona”
pendant by Manoel
Bernardes (Brazil).
Designs for the times
Many jewellery designers are facing the challenges of the
current economic slump with a variety of new innovations
and products. One major example is the increased number
of lightweight designs, as new technologies permit the
creation of hollow and wire pieces, while laser cutting
offers solutions for open work. These often give a bigger
but stylish look for a smaller price.
Another trend is the increased use of “alternative”
metals such as titanium and wood to create original
and contemporary styles by such high-end brands as
Zydo, Roberto Coin, Alfieri & St John, and Stephen
Webster, among others. Emerald and diamond
“Bovary” earrings by
Zydo (Italy).
Pearl and diamond ring
by Utopia (Italy).
37
FAIR FARE & FASHION
With high gold prices, many brands have
brought silver into the spotlight. As one prominent
designer mused, “It’s not the metal so much as
the design that is important.”
Gemstone “Flowers” ring
by Palmiero (Italy).
Sapphire and diamond
“Atlantic” pendant by
Jewellery Theatre (Russia).
Amethyst and diamond “Aphrodite”
earrings by Casato (Italy).
Circles to Stilettos
In terms of styles, many trend directions were
evident this year at BaselWorld. Necklaces
continue to be long and loopy, with lots of links or
strands of pearls, while haute joaillerie pieces dripped
in diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, and rubies. The
earring was a perennial favourite in all sorts of shapes
and sizes, in plain metal or embellished with diamonds
and gemstones, and styles ranged from small studs
to modified chandeliers and slinky stilettos, without
forgetting the ever-popular circular hoops. Speaking of
circles, this was one of the more prominent trend
directions that was displayed in earrings as well as
pendants and rings. In terms of rings, they included
small metal bands to pieces that combined large semiprecious centres with precious accents in all colours,
passing by highly stylized organic forms in a variety of
materials.
Flowing organics contrast with edgy sharpness
The organic look continued to gain in popularity as
seen in the collections of Jewellery Theatre and Manoel
Bernardes, as did textured pieces in all forms
and metals. A number of brands paired rosecut diamonds and other gemstones with a
variety of textures and metals. The edgy
look was epitomized by French couturier
John Galliano, who launched his jewellery
collection at BaselWorld last year, as well as by
designer, Cesare Paciotti, whose pieces were
introduced this year.
Textured yellow gold and rose-cut
“Gardenia” diamond ring by
Carrera y Carrera (Spain).
Black sapphire and white
diamond rings by Al Coro
(Germany).
Silver necklace by
Cesare Paciotti (Italy).
38
Gemstone and diamond
“Dagger” pendant by
John Galliano (France).
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Lilac agate and diamond
pendant by Annamaria
Cammilli (Italy).
Titanium, sapphire, and diamond “Jewels Verne”
brooch by Stephen Webster (England).
Tsavorite, peridot, garnet, and diamond
“Sortilège” ring by Gay Frères (France).
Elements of nature
Right in time for summer, the marine motif was one of
the major trends at this year’s BaselWorld. From frogs
to fish and from coral to crustaceans, the aquatic
motif ranged from simple gold designs to stunning
gem-set pieces. Autore’s Oceania collection featured
gem-encrusted reproductions of shells, algae, and
even fantasy fish, while Stephen Webster created
fighting fish in tinted titanium along with other life
under the sea. Seahorses were one of the more
popular marine motifs and could be found at
Pierez Italia, among others.
Nature in its floral form was a ubiquitous
favourite. Delicate gemstone flower rings were
presented by a number of brands, including
Carrera y Carrera and Palmiero. Another popular
trend depicted the elements, as exemplified in
the stylized “Fire and Ice” collection by Autore
and the “Snow” creations by Favero.
Primary colours
Colours in all shades and hues could be seen,
although purple was the couleur du jour, as the
fashion world’s love affair with this complex colour
was translated into jewellery. Delicate shades of
amethyst were combined with diamonds and other
gems by a number of brands such as Casato in
its “India” and “Aphrodite” lines, while Annamaria
Cammilli used lilac agate in her purple creations.
Yellow and orange gemstones were also prominent,
especially citrine, sapphire, and garnet.
Although black represents all the colours combined
and white is the absence of all colour, the contrasting
combination of the two non-colours was one of the
strongest trends at this year’s show. Black and white
diamonds were most often paired together, while some
Diamond and
gemstone ring by
Luca Carati (Italy).
Pearl and diamond “Ballerina” ring
by Schoeffel (Germany).
40
White gold and diamond
“Butterfly” ring by Leon
Hatot (Switzerland).
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FAIR FARE & FASHION
Gemstone and diamond
pendant by Waskoll
(France).
jewellers used black sapphires or onyx with white agate
or diamonds. Pearls also lent themselves well to the
contrast of black and white, as did enamel.
Black and white diamond
ring by Noah (Spain).
Other events
BaselWorld has also become a venue for
events and conferences that have a significant
bearing on the industry. Two presentations were
conducted this year dealing with the issues of
socially and environmentally responsible practices
in the jewellery sector. First, the Responsible
Jewellery Council (RJC) launched its certification
system and explained the process to exhibitors,
attendees, and the media. The RJC is open to all
in the gold, diamond, jewellery, and watch supply
chain who are willing to adhere to the RJC’s Code of
Practices and submit to RJC-approved third party auditing.
A few days later, the Rapaport Fair Trade Conference was
held to address the impact of the global economic crisis on
the diamond and jewellery trade and to discuss Fair Trade
practices within the industry.
The Israel Diamond Institute (IDI), under the leadership
of managing director Eli Avidar, kicked off its “Together
Works” campaign, a strategic marketing program aimed at
demonstrating the Israeli diamond industry’s commitment
to its international trading partners. The “Together Works”
program includes print and online advertising in leading
trade publications and websites as well as an exclusive
B2B service for IDI partners in the United States, Israel’s
largest diamond market. (www.israelidiamond.co.il)
Woven gold bracelets by
The Fifth Season (Italy).
Diamond and sapphire “Hello Kitty”
pendant by Enlightened/Swarovski
Elements (Austria).
42
Gold “Casual” earrings
by FR Hueb (Brazil).
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FAIR FARE & FASHION
Faceted crystal and gold
“Facettes” pendant by
Baccarat (France).
Diamond and emerald ring
by Stenzhorn (Germany).
Emerald and diamond suite
by Staurino (Italy).
Silver, gold, and garnet
bracelet by Gurhan (USA).
White gold and diamond
“Snow” ring by Favero (Italy).
Cut-out silver and
onyx pendant by
Brosway (Italy).
Visitor survey
According to BaselWorld officials, a survey of buyers
indicated that three-quarters rated the 2009 edition of the
show as either good or excellent. As many as 78 percent
of visitors in 2009 stated that “BaselWorld is a must.”
About 68.1 percent of those who came to BaselWorld
were from overseas (compared with 63.6 percent in 2008),
and 71 percent of those visitors questioned confirmed
that they intend to visit the show next year. The main goal
of their visit to the watch and jewellery show was to gain
an overview of the market. This objective was followed
by networking, customer care, meeting new clients, and
information gathering about market innovations.
The next edition of BaselWorld will be held March 18 to
25, 2010. (www.baselworld.com)
Emerald and diamond ring
by Stefan Hafner (Italy).
Gemstone and dianmond
brooch by Ferraris (Italy).
44
FAIR FARE & FASHION
OroArezzo
Signs of Confidence
Lacy earrings and necklace
made of ruthenium and silver
by Daveri.
“Plissé” necklace in pink gilded
silver and fossil coral spheres,
made from pleated sheets and
flex-tubing by Sem-Ar.
The International Gold, Silver, and Jewellery Exhibition
held in the picturesque Tuscan city of Arezzo had more
to celebrate than its 30th anniversary this past March.
OroArezzo seemed to signal a break in the downward
spiral of visitor attendance that has plagued other
international jewellery trade shows.
By Cynthia Unninayar, Editor-in-Chief
Given the state of the global economy, expectations were low for the
fair’s organizers as well as for its 450 exhibitors, but on March 24, at
the conclusion of the four-day event, they all drew a collective sigh of
relief. Visitor numbers remained largely unchanged from last year, the
level of orders was promising, and an agreement was signed between
the trade fairs of Vicenza, Valenza, and Arezzo for the development of a
national jewellery system and the harmonization of exhibitions.
“Beyond every expectation,” said Giovanni Tricca, President of the
Centro Promozioni e Servizi, the company that organizes OroArezzo,
“we were able to stop a practically inevitable fall in visitor numbers
given the extremely delicate state of the international jewellery market.
The number of visitors, more than 7,500 from 73 countries, was
substantially the same as that for the last edition—an exceptional
result, particularly in the light of the results for the other important
trade fairs. We are especially proud of the fact that these results
were achieved during the 30th edition of OroArezzo.”
Slender gold bracelet by Superoro.
Arezzo holding its own
Tricca was also proud of the fact that gold and jewellery exports
from the Arezzo region held up in 2008, showing a 0.2 percent
increase over the previous year, while exports from Italy’s other
main jewellery districts—Alessandria and Vicenza—reported
decreases of 16.2 percent and 13.6 percent, respectively.
The figures for Arezzo are due mainly to exports to the United
Arab Emirates, which for some time has been the main client of the
Tuscan district. The UAE increased purchases by 30.8 percent in
2008 and by more than 43.1 percent in the last trimester. Exports
to Turkey were also positive—up 9.9 percent despite a decrease
of 15.4 percent between October and December. On the other
“Princess” necklace in yellow and
white gold spheres made of gold
sheets with glazed and diamond-cut
finishing by Daniela Coaro.
48
Ring in amethyst, gold, diamonds,
and enamel by Artlinea.
hand, the decline in exports to the United States
appears nearly unstoppable, with a decrease
of 36.9 percent for 2008, and a slide of 43.5
percent in the last quarter alone. Overall, however,
the trend in 2008 for Arezzo, which counts 1,413
gold and jewellery companies, showed production
down by 9.9 percent, while revenue was down by
8.1 percent, according to the Arezzo Chamber of
Commerce.
New strategies
In order to stay ahead of low-cost labour centres that copy Italian
design, manufacturers are producing several new collections a year.
Also, to remain competitive, many small to medium companies are
working together to help reduce labour costs, maximize marketing, and
provide volume for big buyers. A number of companies in Arezzo are
also becoming very creative in the design of their pieces, including the
use of more coloured gemstones and pearls in addition to offering a
bigger and bolder look.
Innovation and design
In response to the current gold dilemma, more companies are crafting
lightweight, filigree, hollow, and electroform pieces in all sizes and
shapes, as well as cut-out designs, thus offering a larger look for a
smaller price. But, as one designer mused, “It is not so much the high
price of gold that is so problematic as it is the level of its fluctuations.”
As a gold-chain manufacturing centre, Arezzo produces chains that are
on the cutting edge of style. Unlike the chains of yesteryear, the links of
today are very design-oriented and come in a variety of combinations,
shapes (disks, ovals, hearts, circles, hollow, and solid), and textures—
matte, satin, scratched, and hammered.
New conceptual interpretations in shapes and materials were also
apparent throughout the show. In terms of metals, yellow and pink
gold were top performers, while innovative pieces in bronze, brass,
silver, titanium, and steel showed a great deal of creativity. Designers
also used other materials such as wood, Murano glass, rubber, leather,
enamel, pearls, and coloured gemstones.
The use of colour has become more prevalent in the last few years in
pieces seen at OroArezzo. As an example, many of Artlinea’s collections
pair amethyst with other gemstones set in gold to create energetic and
organic designs. Marta Maelstri, sales and marketing manager, explained
that the company’s goal is to create elegant pieces that evoke lots of colour
and movement. Falcinelli, which was founded in 1968 with a focus on
diamonds, now makes designs with a variety of gemstones, especially
“Harmony” suite made of
electroformed yellow gold
with black and white enamel
by New Line.
Textured gold earrings by Giante.
A view of Arezzo’s centre. This region in
Tuscany is home to more than 1400 gold
jewellery producing small and medium
enterprises. (Photo: Andrea Barghi, APT
Arezzo Archives)
49
FAIR FARE & FASHION
“More and Less” necklace with silver, copper,
cornelian, black onyx disks, and polished chains
by UnoAerre.
“Galaxy” rhodium-plated
necklace and bracelet with
gilded silver, crystals, polished
chains and spheres by Nuova
Duecentotrenta Ar.
“Golden Lace” ring
and earrings made from
laser-cut yellow gold
sheets by PVZ.
Yellow gold ring with
Australian baroque pearl
by Condito.
50
amethyst and citrine paired with diamond pavé, to give
a bold and dynamic look. According to Laura Falcinelli,
whose brother Fabrizo is the designer, the company has
also started creating exotic lines of silver jewellery aimed
at very fashion-conscious younger consumers.
Première designs
While known primarily as a volume show where jewellery
is sold by the kilogram, OroArezzo also hosted the classic
Première designer event, now in its 18th year, sponsored
by the Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena. Focusing on design,
the event offered buyers the opportunity to preview the
stylistic trends and technological innovations of Italian
jewellery in terms of products that will be offered for sale
later this year. Première also proved to be a testing ground
for jewellery designers, as a selection of the nine best
pieces—based on design, practicality for manufacture, and saleability—
was made by a panel composed of specialist jornalists representing
the most important international jewellery publications.
The 60 companies that entered the Première competition collectively
displayed a creative use of gold in all its colours—yellow, red, rose,
white, and chocolate—as well as silver, a reflection of the current global
economic crisis. Some also used gold-plating or gold combined with
metals such as ruthenium. Also seen in the entries were enamel,
colourful gemstones, Swarovski crystals, and cubic zirconia.
The creativity of the companies reflected an innovative use of modern
technology combined with the skill of traditional craftsmanship, which
could be seen in the surfaces, such as diamond-finished, satin-effect,
and striated to create a scratched effect with chromatic contrasts. It
could also be seen in the lace effects, in laser etching, and in soldering
to strengthen pieces created from threads of metal as fine as a strand
of hair.
The nine “Best in Show” winners were Condito (Torre del Greco),
Daniela Coaro (Vicenza), and Daveri (Vicenza) while the others—Jessica,
New Line, Nuova Duecentotrenta Ar, PVZ, Sem-Ar, and UnoAerre—
were all from Arezzo. Images of the winning pieces are shown on
these pages. Ending its 30th edition on a note of cautious confidence,
OroArezzo proved itself once again to be an important destination for
affordable yet quality Italian jewellery. (www.oroarezzo.it)
Bracelet, and ring in gold with coloured pavé
sapphires by Jessica (Designed by Fabio Arango).
SUCCESS STORIES
The main showroom, decorated during the
holiday period, features designer jewellery,
watches, and giftware.
Louis Anthony Jewelers, located
in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.
Louis Anthony Jewelers
Finding One’s Personal Style
When Louis Guarino, Jr began his career in the jewellery industry at age 18, he had
no idea that, in just nine short years, he would own his own successful store and have
acquired a well-earned reputation as one of the nation’s top jewellers.
By Cynthia Unninayar, Editor-in-Chief
“Jewellery is all about finding one’s personal style,” muses should matter that the country was in a recession at that
Lou Guarino. “The latest trend may simply not be right for time,” says Guarino. Taking their savings of $10,000, Lou
found a 900-square-foot location in
everybody.” With this in mind, Lou and
a freestanding building. Enlisting the
his wife Veronica, owners of Pittsburghbased Louis Anthony Jewelers, have
help of Veronica, he went to work. She
always nurtured the concept of finding
handled the marketing and advertising
what works for their clients on a more
while Lou, a graduate gemmologist,
intimate level. “We listen to what
managed the buying and selling. Lou’s
they say and take into consideration
years in the industry had provided him
with the vendor and client relationships
their interests and lifestyle when
that he needed to get started. Rather
personalizing their experience at our
than gearing the business plan around
store.” This attention to detail and warm
designer jewellery, which was still in its
customer service has played a large
infancy at that time, the pair founded
role in the store’s success. Customers
are greeted by name and, if they are Lou and Veronica Guarino, owners of Louis Anthony Jewelers. the store on the philosophy that they
new, are always introduced to either Veronica or Lou, and wanted to provide clients with a luxury experience but
without the attitude.
made to feel like an established patron.
Despite the recession, the store prospered. In 2000,
Louis Guarino founded Louis Anthony Jewelers in 1990
after leaving his position as a top salesperson for a large Louis Anthony Jewelers moved into a 3,500-square-foot
retail store. “Fortunately for me, I did not know that it store complete with marble floors and Roman columns,
52
later expanding it to 6,500 square feet. Another 2,000square-foot addition in the fall of 2008 epitomizes the
comfort and luxury that has always been the Guarino’s
goal. Flatscreen TVs with heavy gold frames grace the
walls and rotate images of designer jewellery, store events,
and even family photos. A store lounge features a wet bar
and a conference room for vendor meetings and private
client viewings.
The main focus, however, when a customer enters the
store, is the dazzling array of jewellery. Expertly displayed
and illuminated using eco-conscious LED and metalhalide lighting, the selections are tastefully presented
to showcase each piece. Lou always seeks out the
unique and focuses on carrying jewellery that
can withstand the test of time in terms of
quality, individuality, and style, thereby
ensuring his customers long-term
value for their investment.
Colour has always been one of
Lou’s favourite categories. One
vendor in particular, Valente Milano,
stands out among the many designers featured in the
store for the brand’s ability to integrate coloured stones
into expressive and artistic wearable pieces of art. Being
Italian himself, Lou has always appreciated the romance
and spirit of Italy. “Valente Milano incorporates function,
with their flexible multi-coloured sapphire bangles, and
form, with their bold use of rose gold and unusual cut
gemstones, into their jewellery,” Lou explains. Each new
collection is anxiously awaited and never fails to excite Lou
and Veronica and their discerning clientele.
Word of mouth is one of the major sources of new
clients, but Veronica also believes in the power of the
Internet, so last November she launched a dynamic new
website. “Since today’s consumers receive the majority of
their information from the Internet,” she says, “the site was
designed to inform customers about the industry, as well
as the possibility for e-commerce.” A Louis Anthony blog is
also in the works.
Other marketing efforts involve vendor co-op billboards
and magazine ads, as well as a campaign that features the
couple. “Ultimately, we are the brand,” she insists. “We can
have all of the designers in the world, but people have to
buy Louis Anthony first.”
Louis Anthony Jewelers routinely features
in-store and light-hearted promotions.
For a recent “Rat Pack” event, the
flatscreen TVs presented an array
of photos of the infamous Pack
along with live impersonators and
signature cocktails. “The sales staff
even got into the mood with hairstyles
and clothing that reflected the time
period,” adds Veronica.
As if the store did not keep them busy enough, the
Guarino’s are active in a number of local charities, giving
back to their community. Lou sits on the board of TELI,
an early intervention program for children with physical
and learning challenges, and Veronica is a board member
of The 25 Club, an organization that raises funds for the
neonatal intensive care unit at Magee Women’s Hospital.
Other Pittsburgh charitable endeavours include the
Children’s Hospital, Juvenile Diabetes Association, and
the Spina Bifida Association.
It is clear that both Lou and Veronica Guarino not only
help their clients to find their personal style, but these
two success stories have found it for themselves in Louis
Anthony Jewelers. (www.louisanthonyjewelers.com)
Middle Photo: A sapphire and diamond bracelet by Valente Milano, one of the successful brands carried by Louis Anthony Jewelers.
In addition to a large bridal assortment,
Louis Anthony Jewelers also has a bridal
registry, and carries a selection of gifts
for the wedding party.
The lounge also features tableware
and comfortable seating.
53
EDITORIAL & ADVERTISERS INDEX
Managing Director Philippe Maillard
Editor-in-Chief Cynthia Unninayar • cu@communicationsintl.com
Special Feature Editor Diana Z. Zimmerman
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Graphic Design Melanie Maclin/Bang Productions
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Asia Maggie Tong • maggietong@couturejeweler.com • TEL +852. 9658 1830
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Laurence Chatenoud • lchatenoud@couturejeweler.com
TEL +41 22 307 7843 • FAX +41 22 300 3748
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Circulation Jocelyne Bailly • jbailly@europastar.com
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Nielsen jewelry Group
Group Vice President Bailey Beeken • bailey.beeken@nielsen.com
Group Show Director Couture Liz Hitchcock • liz.hitchcock@nielsen.com
Group Publishing Director Chris Casey • ccasey@couturejeweler.com
Editorial Director Whitney Sielaff • wsielaff@couturejeweler.com
Nielsen Retail Group
Senior Vice President, Retail David Loechner
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Printed in Geneva by SRO-KUNDIG
© Copyright 2009 by International Jewellery COUTURE
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
without the written permission of International Jewellery COUTURE
A
Aaron Basha 31
Al Coro 38
Alpilex 41
Andreoli 3
Annamaria Cammilli 40
Artlinea 49
Autore 30, 37
AVeVA 31
B
Baccarat 44
Bapalal Keshavlal 21, 28
Bergio 20
Bielka 24
Breguet 36
Breuning 20
Brosway 44
Brumani 36
Bruner 24, 26
Buccellati C4
Bucherer 18
Bunz 27
C
Carrera y Carrera 8, 9, 38
Cartier 12, 29
Casato 11, 25, 38
Cento/Roberto Coin 29
Cesare Paciotti 29, 38
Cherie Dori 26
Color Story 24
Condito 50
Cristofol for Marchak 30
D
Damiani 10
Daniel K 27, 36
Daniela Coaro 48
Daveri 48
David Lin 25, 20
DeGrisogono 27, 16
E, F, G
Enlightened/Swarovski 29, 42, 43
Eurostar 34, 35
Faber Castell 16, C3
Favero 44
Ferraris 25, 44
Fillner 24
FR Hueb 42
Gay Frères 40
Georg Jensen 29
GIA 51
Giante 49
GJEPC 45
GL Paris 29
Glamrock 13
Goldiaq 30
Green G. 18
Gumuchian 27
Gurhan 10, 44
H, I, J, K, L
H.Stern 10, 26
Intercolor 46, 47
IoSi 27, 32
Jaeger LeCoultre 16
Jessica 50
Jewellery Theatre 38
Jewelmer 18
John Galliano C1, 14, 15, 33, 38
Joïa 18, 22
Leo Pizzo 28
Leon Hatot 40
Lois Hill 19
Louis Golay 28, 36
Luca Carati 40
M, N
Magerit 36
Manoel Bernardes 37
Marco Bicego 27
Mario Buzzanca 31
Mathon Paris 18, 23
Mattia Cielo 24
Messika 37
MVee 30
Nafco 31
New Line 49
Noah 42
Nouvelle Bague 32
Nuova Duecentotrenta Ar 50
O, P, Q, R
Palmiero 28, 38
Picchiotti 5, 20
Pierez Italia 31
Porrati 31, 33
PVZ 50
Rahaminov 27
Repossi 10
Roberto Coin 25, 37, 56
Rodney Rayner 30
Rosato 29
Rosy Blue 39
S, T
Samra 24
Scavia 30
Schoeffel 40
Sem-Ar 48
Sethi Couture 26
Staurino 44
Stefan Hafner 33, 44
Stenzhorn 44
Stephen Webster 10, 40
SuperOro 48
Tamara Comolli 26
The Fifth Season 7, 42
Trésor 28
U, V
Umane 18, 23
UnoAerre 50
Utopia 37
Valente Milano C2, 1, 16, 32, 52
Van Cleef & Arpels 10, 31
Vianna 25
W, X, Y, Z
Waskoll 42
Zalemark 17
Zydo 37
Reaching the best jewelers worldwide
International Jewellery Couture & Europa Star
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f r e e ly s p e a k i n g
A Few Words from Roberto Coin
I think the economists have managed to very well brutalize
business and our future.
I believe that, in this particular time, people want to change their
attitudes by partying, eating more than ever, to express the joy
of life, and go back to their youthful memories, where the night
was not meant for sleeping, but to really enjoy themselves.
I truly feel that this is the Century of Women. We will need
their capabilities to go forward as they are undisputedly able to
establish the new platform for the future. I personally love them,
as they are more intelligent than ever, more sophisticated, but
most of all, they are collectors of sentiments.
I have my own theory and we definitely need to go forward. One
way is to take inspiration from sports, where athletes together
create the spirit of the winning team. In this case, what better
than rugby? The only way to win is “going forward” until you
reach the touchdown. Warriors, gentlemen, and the finest
athletes playing together to achieve Victory.
So, we can add to the words, “Yes we can,” the words “And we
must.”
Roberto Coin
We have a wonderful team, with different strategies, and
one of them, essential today, is a new Creativity, which is not
connected to economic value but only relates to jewellery
that has class and style regardless of price. A strategy where
we can play and create a new world, as the desires are
different, the feelings are different, and therefore creativity
will have to be different.
Traditions will remain and can’t be taken away from us. Our
cultural influences, our manifold inspirations, and our versatility
will always be part of us. The only thing we must achieve is to
create sophisticated, ethical Luxury. We understand fashion, we
participate through the emotions of the moment. We understand
that life should be lived differently through happiness, and may I
remind you once more that jewellery creates this sentiment.
In the end, this is only a small personal story, but the winners will
be those who are capable of re-conquering the final consumer’s
confidence at the point of sale. And be assured that we will
try tremendously hard to help you in achieving this challenging
goal. This is the beginning of another new game.
The ex-sportsman, probably trainer,
“Me stesso” bracelets in gold and diamonds by Roberto Coin.
56
Roberto Coin
Pure elegance
The barrel of the new Graf von Faber-Castell Intuition
line is shaped from a single piece of precious resin. The
platinum-plated metal parts bring out the gleaming
black of the barrel and cap to brilliant effect.
Each 18-carat bicolor gold nib is
“run in” by hand.
For more information and a list of our authorized dealers please visit www.Graf-von-Faber-Castell.com
Faber-Castell USA, Inc. • 9450 Allen Drive • Cleveland, Ohio 44125 • 800-311-8684
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