Chennai - Lonely Planet India

CRICKET
in the
C TY
CHENNAI
A visit to Chennai is short of delights of the tourist brochure variety. Its now
a modern metropolis with spanking malls and swish restaurants, but it has
not lost its grip on its heritage and culture. It needs a keen eye to spot the
traditional architecture, antique churches and temples of Chennai, but in this
city, the past is always present.
TRANSPORT
GETTING THERE
• Air: The Anna International Airport and domestic Kamaraj
terminal next door have daily flights to all metros and major
cities. Autos and taxis are available outside both.
• Train: Interstate trains and those heading west generally
depart from Central train station, while trains heading south
depart from Egmore.
LOCAL TRANSPORT
• Auto: They charge `20 for the first two kilometres and then
10 for every kilometre after that. It is the most convenient way
to travel around the city.
• Bus: Chennai’s bus system is worth getting to know. The
main city bus stand is at Parry’s Corner, and fares are between
`5 and `12.
• Taxi: There are various radio taxis you can pre-book. The
charges vary from `10–25 a kilometre. A full day cab costs
`800 for 8 hours/80km.
• Train: Efficient MRTS trains run every 15 minutes and are a
convenient way to get around.
CONNECTIvITy
Most big hotels have business centres or offer free wi-fi.
Restaurants and coffee shops may not provide wi-fi, but do
check with them once. There are internet cafes all over the city;
most charge between `20 and `30 for an hour.
Quick Facts
STD Code: 044
Helpful websites:
www.tamilnadutourism.org
www.lonelyplanet.com/india/
tamil-nadu/chennai-madras
Chennai is home to
500 years of church
architecture that offers
amazing variety. Mostly around
George Town and Santhome.
I chennai’s busy streets;
©Getty iMaGes/ Peter adaMs
TOP EXPERIENCES
Government Museum
Sprawling over a large campus
with four main buildings and
46 galleries, this is one of the
best museums in the city. The
Museum Theatre resembles
Italianate architecture and is
a throwback to another era.
The National Art Gallery is a
stunning piece of architecture
combining Mughal and
Rajasthani styles.
Valluvar Kottam This
memorial honours the Tamil
poet Thiruvalluvar and his
classic work, the Thirukural. A
weaver by trade, Thiruvalluvar
lived around the 1st century
BC in what is present-day
Chennai and wrote this famed
poem, providing a moral code
for millions of followers. The
three-level memorial replicates
ancient Tamil architecture
and boasts an immense
35m chariot, as well as an
enormous auditorium and
inscriptions of the Thirukural’s
1330 couplets.
Vivekananda House This
is interesting not only for
the displays on the famous
‘wandering monk’, but also
for the semicircular structure
in which it’s housed. Swami
Vivekananda stayed here
briefly in 1897 and preached
his ascetic philosophy to
adoring crowds. The museum
houses a collection of
photographs and memorabilia
from the swami’s life, a gallery
of religious historical paintings
and the meditation room
where Vivekananda stayed.
Marina Beach Holding the
spot of second-longest beach
in the world, Marina Beach is
undoubtedly Chennai’s pride.
I Many dance Festivals are held in chennai throuGh the year; © GettyiMaGes/ srivatsaa
The Italianate promenade was
built more than a century ago
and the name Marina is an
ode to its Sicilian inspiration.
It’s best to stroll along this
lively sandy stretch early
evening both to take in the
refreshing sea breeze and to
admire the heritage buildings
on the opposite side.
Theosophical Society
Between the Adyar River and
the coast, the 100 hectares
of the Theosophical Society
provide a green and peaceful
retreat from the city. It’s a
lovely spot to just wander; the
sprawling grounds contain
a church, mosque, Buddhist
shrine and Hindu temple. The
Theosophical Society’s bestknown symbol is the 400-yearold Adyar banyan tree which
has put in nearly 1000 roots
within the complex.
Fort St George Finished
around 1653 by the British
East India Company, the
fort has undergone many
facelifts over the years. Inside
the vast perimeter walls is
now a precinct housing
the Secretariat & Legislative
Assembly. Visit the Fort
Museum for interesting
military memorabilia from
World War I and 18th century
etchings.
San Thome Cathedral
This is a soaring Roman
Catholic church between
Kapaleeshwarar Temple
and Marina Beach. In the
basement is a modern chapel
housing the tomb of St
Thomas the Apostle, above is
a museum containing Thomas
related artefacts but are of
varying degrees of historical
dubiousness.
Dakshina Chitra This is an
exciting cross cultural living
museum of art, architecture,
lifestyles, crafts and
performing arts of South India.
Kapaleeswarar Temple
Mylapore’s landmark is the
impressive Dravidian style
Kapaleeswarar Temple and
its temple tank. The temple is
dedicated to Lord Shiva and
was built by the Pallavas of
the 15th century and further
developed by the Vijayanagar
kings in the 16th century.
AROUND CHENNAI
Mahabalipuram I 52 km
Listed as a World Heritage
Site because of its ancient
archaeological wonders,
this fascinating place is also
known as Mamallapuram.
It is a laid-back town which
most travellers flock to. The
windswept Shore Temple is a
sight worth catching on the
water’s edge.
Kanchipuram I 72km
Also known as ‘Silk City’,
Kanchipuram is not only
reputed for its world famous
traditionally crafted silk
saris but also its culture and
civilization with its glorious
display of a thousand temples.
Tirupati I 135km The holy
hill of Tirumala is always
packed with lakhs of devotees,
who come to worship Lord
Venkateswara. The temple
is often compared to the
Vatican as a place of worship
that is incredibly rich and
receives the highest number
of pilgrims.
Puducherry I 160km
Fondly termed as ‘Pondy’,
this former French colony is a
sea of tranquillity with clean
cobbled streets and colonial
townhouses aligned beside
them.
I the kaPaleeswarar teMPle has
stunninG FiGures adorninG the toP;
© GettyiMaGes/ walter bibikow
ACCOMMODATION
THE PARk
%42676000; www.
theparkhotels.com; 601
Anna Salai; rooms from
`10,500
This super-stylish hotel flaunts
design everywhere you look,
from the bamboo, steel and
gold cushions of the towering
lobby to the posters from
classic South Indian movies
shot in Gemini Studios. Rooms
have lovely bedding, and
stylish touches including glasswalled bathrooms. It has three
restaurants, a large open-air
pool and spa also.
RESIdENCy TOWERS
%28156363; www.
theresidency.com; Sir
Theagaraya Nagar Road, T
Nagar; rooms from `5200
At this price, it’s like Residency
I the Park hotel has PleasinG decor;
©the Park
Towers doesn’t know what a
good thing it has going: fivestar elegance with personality.
Every floor is decorated
differently, but rooms all
have sliding doors in front of
windows to block out light
and noise, dark-wood furniture
and thoughtful touches.
LOTuS
%28157272; www.thelotus.
in; 15 venkatraman Street,
T Nagar; rooms from `2000
An absolute gem, this hotel
offers a quiet setting away
from the main roads, a good
veg restaurant, and fresh,
stylish rooms with wooden
floors and cheerful decor.
yWCA INTERNATIONAL
GuEST HOuSE
%25324234; 1086
Poonamallee High Road;
rooms from `1000–1500
The YWCA guesthouse, set
in green and shady grounds,
offers a calm atmosphere and
exceptionally good value.
Run efficiently by an amiable
staff, it provides good-sized,
impeccably clean rooms,
spacious common areas and
good-value meals (`150/225
for veg/non veg).
fOOTPRINT b&b
%9840037483; www.
chennaibedandbreakfast.
com; Gayatri Apartments,
16 South Street, Alwarpet;
rooms from `4000
This B&B is located in
a quiet street in a leafy
neighbourhood. Bowls of
pretty flowers and old-Madras
drawings set the scene. The
nine cosy, spotless rooms have
king-size or wide twin beds.
Breakfasts (Western or Indian)
are generous, wi-fi is free and
the hospitable owners can tell
you all you need to make the
most of your time. Phone or
email in advance as walk-ins
are discouraged.
vIvANTA by TAj–
CONNEmARA
%866000000; www.
vivantabytaj.com; binny
Road; rooms from `13,0000
The Taj group has four hotels
in and around Chennai but
this is the only one with
historical ambience, built
in the 1850s as the British
governor’s residence. There’s
a pool in the tropical garden,
and even the small rooms are
large and comfortable.
EATING
HOTEL SARAvANA bHAvAN
%28192055; www.
saravanabhavan.com; 21
kennet Lane
Delicious lunch and evening
South Indian thali meals at the
Saravana Bhavans are available
from `80 to 100. This famous
Chennai vegetarian chain is
also excellent for South Indian
breakfasts – idlis and vadas,
ice creams, filter coffee and
other Indian vegetarian fare
including biryanis and pulaos.
They have several branches
across the city.
PONNuSAmy HOTEL
Wellington Estate, 24 Ethiraj
Road
This well-known non-veg
place serves curry, biryani and
Chettinad specialities. Look
out for interesting options like
brain fry and crab masala.
I Many restaurants serve south
indian staPles like dosa & idli;
© Getty iMaGes/ PrabhaGraPhy
SPARky’S dINER
Ramanathan Salai, Spur
Tank Road
An expat-run American diner
plastered with US licence
plates and movie posters,
with Sinatra crooning on the
stereo. Come for reliably good
Western food, especially the
pasta, and a bottomless cup of
iced tea. If you’re craving a USstyle burger you might have
to adjust your expectations a
little (they’re not bad though).
muRuGAN IdLy
Shop 77 GN Chetty Road,
T Nagar
Those in the know generally
agree this particular branch of
the small chain serves some of
the best idli and South Indian
meals in town. We heartily
concur.
A2b (AdyAR ANANd
bHAWAN)
bharathi Salai
Enjoy South Indian classics,
veg biryani, a wide range of
sweets and savoury snacks in
clean surrounds.
THE GRANd SWEETS ANd
SNACkS
%24914213; www.
grandsweets.com; 2nd main
Road, Gandhi Nagar Adyar
Excellent for traditional South
Indian sweets, savouries,
crunchy snacks, chutneys and
pickles. The restaurant serves
piping hot vegetarian south
Indian tiffin too.
SRI kRISHNA SWEETS
%243112324; www.
srikrishnasweets.com; 2&3
Prakasam Road, Panagal
Park, T Nagar
Their Mysorepak (sweet
made of gram flour, ghee
and sugar) is to die for. It has
branches all over the city. The
Purasawalkam branch is in a
renovated 120-year old house.
kumARAkOm
%42034203; www.
kumarakomrestaurant.com;
9 kodambakkam High Road
You may have to stand in
a queue for a table at this
popular restaurant done up
with dark-wood furniture. The
seafood is quite good. Try the
prawns masala or karimeen
pollichatthu (pearl-spot fish
marinated and steamed in a
banana leaf).
I silk saris are a Must-buy in chennai; © GettyiMaGes/ arvind balaraMan
SHOPPING
THEAGARAyA NAGAR
Better known as T Nagar, it
has great shopping for silks,
especially at Pondy Bazaar
and around Panagal Park.
Nungambakkam’s Khader
Nawaz Khan Road is a pleasant
lane of designer shops, cafes
and galleries and there are
plenty of malls across the city.
NALLI SILkS
9 Nageswara Road, T Nagar
The huge, super colourful
granddaddy of silk shops, with
a jewellery branch next door
is a must-visit if you’re looking
for traditional silk saris.
SAkuRA
72 North mada Street,
mylapore
From traditional and heavy
temple costume jewellery for
dancers to small and elegant
pieces for evening wear and
silver objects and jewellery
you’ll get it all here.
HIGGINbOTHAmS
116 Anna Salai
If you’re fond of books make
your way to Higginbothams
that is reckoned to be India’s
oldest bookshop. It opened
in 1844 and has a decent
collection of kinds of books.
POOmPuHAR
108 Anna Salai
This large branch of the
fixed-price state government
handicrafts chain is good for
everything from plaster deities
to a 1m-high bronze Nataraja.
RASI SILk HOuSE
1 Sannadhi Street,
mylapore
This silk shop (formerly Radha
Silk Emporium) is over a
century old and has a good
selection of silk saris and
cotton saris not just from Tamil
Nadu, but across South India
and also has an adjoining
shop for handcrafts, Tanjore
paintings, Salem woodcuts
and gift tables.
ACTIVITIES
STORyTRAILS
%9600080215, 42124214;
www.storytrails.in
It runs highly recommended
neighbourhood walking tours
based around themes such as
dance, jewellery and bazaars,
as well as tours specially
aimed at children.
THE CHENNAI PHOTOWALk
%9884467463
August 22 is the day Chennai
was recorded as a city over
300 years ago. A photo walk
takes you past some of
Chennai’s historic spots.