5 hr. The Art of Color and DTAE Health and Safety

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5 hr. The Art of Color and
DTAE Health and Safety
Performance Objective and Introduction
This class is a presentation of the theory and practice of hair color and chemistry. The topics
that will be discussed and demonstrated includes terminology, application and workplace
knowledge related to hair color and chemistry also Color theory which teaches the basic
principles and foundations for hair color. The focus of this class is to allow the student to
discover how to design with color, create depth, and add texture and excitement to a hair
design. The class will also demonstrate Hair coloring simulation and appropriate use and
application of hair coloring products.
Hair coloring is one of the most rewarding services offered at a salon. Many stylist shy away
from color because of the chemistry, possible problems, and mistakes that could happen. This
course will highlight basics of the coloring process, and discuss the products and techniques to
help you elevate your confidence level as you increase your knowledge. For those with more
advanced hair-coloring experience, this course will refresh your training and introduce some
new concepts.
SECTION 1
The Art of Color
Performance Objective and Introduction
This class is a presentation of the theory and practice of hair color and chemistry. The topics
that will be discussed and demonstrated includes terminology, application and workplace
knowledge related to hair color and chemistry also Color theory which teaches the basic
principles and foundations for hair color. The focus of this class is to allow the student to
discover how to design with color, create depth, and add texture and excitement to a hair
design. The class will also demonstrate Hair coloring simulation and appropriate use and
application of hair coloring products.
Hair coloring is one of the most rewarding services offered at a salon. Many stylist shy away
from color because of the chemistry, possible problems, and mistakes that could happen. This
course will highlight basics of the coloring process, and discuss the products and techniques to
help you elevate your confidence level as you increase your knowledge. For those with more
advanced hair-coloring experience, this course will refresh your training and introduce some
new concepts.
Why Many Stylists Often Fear Haircoloring
The biggest reason anyone is ever afraid is lack of knowledge. Timid about attempting
haircoloring, stylists often discourage people from trying a tint or color effect. Yes, this strange
phenomenon occurs more times than you would think! Stylists have actually talked customers
out of trying color, resulting in the loss of larger service revenues, retail sales, and eventually
the loss of the client, who is dis-appointed by not receiving the service requested.
Other reasons stylists are afraid to try color or suggest it to clients are: a previous experience
that was a disaster, lack of confidence arising from lack of experience, and fear of client
rejection with the finished look. Either they don't know what to do with colors or they are
afraid to try! Fear keeps the potentially successful stylist from becoming a true technician.
Although most students understand that practice makes perfect, it is perhaps more difficult to
understand that in cosmetology, perfect might be a rut. You might learn something to
perfection and never go past that point. Hopefully this course will broaden your understanding,
first and foremost. Beyond that, it will challenge you to experiment, to think past the
immediate moment, and to go forward with confidence, even if you tried something and it
failed. One of the best ways to become successful is to know failure.
BASIC CHEMISTRY
There are some very specific rules that come into play with hair coloring. This page outlines the
basic chemistry involved and highlights some of the most critical rules to keep in mind. Knowing
where you're starting, where you're going and what to expect along the way is the best way to
ensure good results from your color.
Here's the formula... nice 'n simple...
Hair Coloring Formula
Virgin Hair
(no artificial color present)
Underlying Pigment
+ Artificial Pigments
______________________
Final Result
Previously Colored Hair
Underlying Pigment of
Regrowth
+ Existing Artificial Pigments
+ Artificial Pigments in New
Color
_______________________
Final Result
Step One - Identify Natural Haircolor Level
An international system is used to identify the level of darkness of your hair, 1 being the darkest
(black) and 10 being the lightest (blonde). Match your hair (just the regrowth if it's previously
colored) to the hair color swatch below that most closely resembles the darkness of your
haircolor...not necessarily the tone, which could be warm (red), cool (ash), or neutral, but the
degree of lightness or darkness.
Step Two - Identify Your Underlying Pigment
A hair coloring process that involves any amount of hydrogen peroxide (which can include some
semi-permanent formulas) will bring out the natural underlying pigment of your hair.
The "natural looking" tone that's visible as your hair color is not the true tone when it comes to
the chemistry of hair coloring.
Think of it as a surface layer that's stripped away, and laying in wait underneath are the bold
and brassy tones of your underlying pigment.
The chart above clearly illustrates which color of underlying pigment corresponds with the
natural level you identified in step one. So now you know what you're dealing with.
Step Three - Understand the Color Wheel
The color wheel is a universal chart which shows how all colors are created from just three
basic (primary) colors. Here's how it goes...
Primary Colors (inner circle) - Red, Yellow, and Blue
Secondary Colors (middle ring) - Orange, Green, and Purple
Secondary colors are made by mixing 2 primary colors together:
Red + Yellow = Orange
Red + Blue = Purple
Blue + Yellow = Green
Tertiary Colors (outer ring)
Created by mixing primary and secondary colors together:
Yellow + Orange = Orange/Yellow
Yellow + Green = Yellow/Green (lime green)
Blue + Green = Blue/Green
Blue + Purple = Blue/Violet
Red + Purple = Red/Violet
Red + Orange = Red/Orange
Why is the hair color wheel so important?
1) All hair color is comprised of different ratios of the primary colors (red, yellow, blue).
2) It clearly illustrates which colors neutralize which...find the primary color you want to tone
away and look directly across the chart to the opposite secondary color.
**Mixing all three primary colors equally creates BROWN**
So creating a neutral tone is achieved by mudding out the underlying pigment using an
opposing color.
Because underlying pigments are all reds, oranges, and yellows, you must consider that you are
not beginning with a blank canvas...you're adding color to color, so the results will be a
combination of all elements.
The Law of Color
You can enhance anyone's appearance with color! Understanding color theory is as easy as
knowing the simple Law of Color and relating it to addition and sub-traction. Believe it or not,
hairdressers did not invent any of the simple color laws, which trace back to Isaac Newton.
Around the same time the apple fell on his head, he discovered that when white light passes
through a prism, that light reflects six colors, which make up the colors of the rainbow and are
the basis for the color wheel. These six colors are:
Primary colors: yellow, red, and blue
Secondary colors: orange, violet, and green
Primary colors are colors in their purest form. They are the three strongest and most influential
pigments! Any color on earth can be broken down to yellow, red, or blue. Yellow is the lightest
primary and is warm in value. It is the color hair colorists use most, for it creates the most
highlighted effect. Red is the medium-bright primary that reflects more light than the other
colors; therefore, it catches the eye first. It is also the strongest of the warm primary colors.
Blue is the darkest, strongest primary. Any time more blue than red or yellow is used in a
formula, the color will not only be darker, but less bright. It is the only primary with a cool
pigment.
Secondary colors are created when two primaries are mixed together. There are three
secondary colors. Orange is the strongest warm secondary color and is made by mixing yellow
and red. Violet is made when red and blue are mixed. It is a cool secondary because it is based
on the cool, strongest primary. Green, the secondary color with the most coo/ tones, is made
by mixing yellow and blue.
When each of the three primaries is placed at the point of a triangle, the three secondaries will
fit on points of another triangle.
This configuration forms the outline of a circle or wheel, hence the term color wheel.
The wheel divides into halves-a cool side and a warm side. Green, blue, and violet are cool: red,
orange, and yellow are warm.
Note that each primary color on the wheel is opposite a secondary color. These opposites are
the true key to success in hair coloration.
If colors are opposite each other on the color wheel, they are called complementary colors. So
at does that mean? Complementary means that they complement one another. For example,
when yellow is placed next to violet, both colors look their most vibrant and attractive. The
same is true with orange and blue or green and red. When two complementary colors are
mixed, however, they neutralize or cancel each other, making brown (center of the wheel).
All other colors or combinations of colors are called quaternary colors. Although these colors
are the most varied and widespread, they are not essential in understanding the color wheel
because manufacturers describe their products' color bases in terms of primaries, secondaries,
or tertiaries.
This theory is known as the Law of Color, and it is universally accepted. It is the key to
predictable, successful color service.
The Law of Color never changes!
Here are some more important terms that will help to enhance your understanding of the laws
of color.
Highlights: Probably one of the first innovations in hair coloring, highlights brightens and adds
shine. Highlights work best in warm shades of gold, honey, amber, and reds and can be applied
with permanent hair color or created with over-the-counter hair mascara, such as Christian
Dior's Mascara Flash Highlights or Revlon Professional Luminates, both of which wash out after
one shampoo.
Twilighting: When you want a lighter hair color to show a subtle change, twilighting is the
answer. Twilighting tones down too-bright hair colors by adding a few darker tones. Twilights
are closely related to lowlights.
Lowlights: A hair coloring technique that adds real depth to hair color. Like twilights, low lights
add darker tones and soften the look of over-lightened hair or add dimension to hair color that
looks flat. A skilled stylist can weave up to three different colors into your hair by pulling a few
strands here and there through a weave cap for a subtle look or foiling chunks of your hair for a
dramatic, trendy look.
Veiling: Brightens and enhances old flat hair color by applying a semi-permanent glaze in a
richer tone over a permanent shade.
Chunking: Takes large, random sections of hair and infuses them with new color. Chunking is a
hair coloring technique that gives dramatic impact to your hairstyle, often by adding bright,
trendy colors to natural hair color.
SHADE SYSTEM
The original hair coloring system used as a permanent, penetrating tint is called the Shade
System. It was and still is very effective. The Shade System measures color by its tonal value,
such as reds, naturals, golds, browns, and so forth. While many technicians still work with the
Shade System, most manufacturers today pro-mote the Level System as easier, and as
producing better results.
LEVEL SYSTEM
The Level System can totally eliminate the fear of haircoloring and remove all the guesswork
from tinting hair. A simple, three-part formula is all you use to determine and achieve great end
results.
The following information is devoted mainly to the exploration and explanation of the Level
System of haircoloring. It includes advanced information usually only provided to the educators
who are teaching other professionals. Hopefully this information is presented simply, so it
becomes basic color knowledge. A good philosophy to follow is: the more you know, the less
you fear.
The term “hair coloring”, as used in this course
refers to both the science and art of changing the
hair color by using a variety of products and
techniques.
Definition of the Level System
For those who are not clear on what the Level
System is, the definition is simple--it is the
numerical system of judging color in stages, or
numbers, one level being a measure of light or
dark in the hair. The system assigns a number for
measuring dark to light without regard to tonal
value. Level measures are usually represented by
the numbers I through 10, each indicating one equal measure (level). However, because there is
no universal measurement of a level, one company's level chart may vary from another's. Most
of them are similar because there is a limit to the differences between light and dark.
Think of the Level System as being a ladder. The first or bottom step is # I (usually signifying
black); with # I 0 the highest step on the ladder (usually representing very pale blonde). If you
are presently more familiar with the Shade System, three to four shades equal approximately
one level in the Level System. The Level System colors always use numbers to indicate levels
(the measure of light and dark) and letters to refer to tonal value, the major contributor of
pigment in a particular series.
Example: I0N means level 10 natural, 9G means level 9 gold, 10S means level 10 silver some use
more than one letter, indicating contributions of more than one dominant tone.
Example: GB (gold, beige).
If you're a blonde (level 7), trying to go lighter, without the brassy tones...your underlying
pigment is yellow. You must use a purple based (ash) color to neutralize the underlying
pigment. Any darker than level 7 and the orange underlying pigment comes into play, for which
you need blue based color, except blondes don't contain enough blue to tone out orange, so
you'll need to pre-lighten to bring up the underlying pigment to a yellow (preferably pale
yellow) tone, then apply a purple based (ash) hair toner (semi-permanent color).
Alternatively, if you're a dark brown (level 3) and you want to lighten up to a slightly golden
brown (level 6). You'd need to consider that you're dealing with a very strong red-orange
underlying pigment, so adding gold (orange based) color will amplify the orange and bring out
the brass. Go for a neutral shade, or even slightly cool to mud out some, but not all of the
orange.
So you see, each hair coloring process has its own set of variables. If your hair is previously
colored, the formula becomes slightly more complicated as you must take into account the
artificial pigment already on the hair. In this case it's imperative you know that color does not
remove artificial pigment, so if you want to lighten already colored hair...you're going to need
bleach...and it will lighten slower than the natural regrowth.
Another option would be to use a hair color removal product, which only removes the artificial
pigment. Also tricky, and more expensive, but in the long run, it can save you both dollars and
further damage to your hair.
Categories of Color
The Level System consists of four basic categories of color. These categories are:
The B category, dark brown and black: People born with black or dark brown hair Levels 1, 2,
and sometimes 3 are in the black dark brown category. They may have some reddish highlights.
Their hair darkens with age until it turns gray.
The W category, warm brown: People born with blonde hair that gradually darkens through
adolescence. Even before the hair begins to gray the natural hair color loses its warmth and
starts to flatten. The hair colorist must keep in mind that the original undertones are still
present although the hair has turned gray. These clients can generally wear red tones very well
and often request them. They also wear highlights very well. The warm category can include
levels from 5 to 10.
The L category, light brown: People born with blonde hair that remains blonde through
adolescence. Their hair gradually darkens in their teens to a soft brown color. The soft brown
category is usually level 5 or 6.
The category red: People born with red hair that remains red through-out adolescence. Their
hair gradually darkens or loses warmth with age. The red category usually falls into the levels 5,
6, and 7.
Blonde has not been noted as a category. People with blonde hair levels 8, 9, and I0; do not
usually color their hair until it darkens, although they often add even lighter or brighter
highlights for fashion effects. At this point, they are often in the L category.
The Level System is the simplest and most easily performed system of color formulation,
providing clear-cut steps to follow with no guesswork. In addition, many level systems contain
lower ammonia levels than their shade system counter-parts, creating predictable, beautiful
results.
PREPARE YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR
For best results (and to avoid common color mishaps), make sure your client’s hair is ready for
the color. People no longer regard hair as merely a protective fiber. In today's society, hair
expresses image, a client's fashion and life-style preferences.
Whether your client requires monthly retouches or simply naturalized effects that last for
months, color is a repeat business when properly done. To look its best, color must be
maintained!
With proper consultation, you can customize your color service, catering to every whim and
need your clients have. The public continues to spend more time and money to look good.
Haircoloring is the most profitable service offered in salons today. Why? A retouch client
averages 10 to 12 visits per year! If you hit on the right formula for the client, it equals loyalty!
Clients are very loyal when it comes to color.
Hair Color Ideas
To come up with amazing hair color ideas, you need to explore the unlimited color palette you
are working with. In addition, keep the latest hair coloring and styling trends in mind for proper
guidance.
So, make use of the ideas given below to spruce up your innate sense of fashion. Apply your
creativity and modify these basic ideas to suit your needs. Most importantly, identify your skin
tone and select the shades accordingly.
Your clients’ lustrous locks will enhance
their overall personality. Thus, it is essential
to pick hair colors that you can comfortably
pull off. If you are going for a drastic change
such as going from brunette to blonde or
vice versa, you will have to adjust your
make-up too.
Those who do not want to commit to the
care required for maintenance of all-over
hair color can opt for strategically placed
highlights and lowlights (done near roots).
To get impressive results, it is best to use
the balayage hair coloring technique.
Another fantastic and easy hair color idea is
to have peek-a-boo-highlights, particularly
on front sections and lower layers.
Unless you are interested in a bold and
funky hairdo, pick colors that look natural
yet attractive. For instance, you can
experiment with sun-kissed or bronde
(brown + blonde) hair color. More often
than not, incredible hair coloring ideas tend
to add depth and dimension to your hair.
You can pump up your style with latest
ombre hair color. It involves having a darker
color at the roots and progressively lighter
at the mid-section and ends.
In fact, ombre/color streaming is one of the
hottest hair color trends for 2011. Brunettes
can use this trend to lighten their boring
dark tresses. Plus, it requires less frequent
touch-ups as compared to traditional
highlights.
While following this trend, however, do not
neglect the golden rule of staying within 2-3
shades of your usual hair color.
Two tone hair color ideas are also gaining
huge popularity nowadays. For this, choose
contrasting shades to create a gorgeous
two-tone or even multi-tone effect. Try to
pick shades that bring out the beauty of
your locks, depending on your hairstyle.
Shades of red, especially the darker tones
look awesome on black and brown hair.
Moreover, it is a great option for those who
have freckles.
As you age, it is better to stay close to soft
and copper gold reds rather than playing
with deep wine red tones.
However, if you have a ruddy skin tone with
red undertones then avoid red hair color;
instead, pick golden or honey brown tones.
You may also consider rich chocolate brown
hair color with light caramel highlights.
Auburn is another amazing choice.
Those with a tanned complexion can
experiment with coffee brown shade.
Remember, brown is considered suitable for
nearly all skin tones.
Shades of brown can be produced with the
help of henna. It serves as an organic hair
color and hence, does not damage your
hair.
Honey colored highlights look fabulous on
blonde hair. Those with edgy hairstyles can
try unconventional, vibrant colors like hot
pink, blue, fuchsia, purple, white, and so on.
When using colors and hairstyle to express
your individuality, you can opt for emo or
scene hair colors as well. If you are not
interested in all-over hair color, you may
use the desired color on the bangs only.
Tips for Choosing Hair Colors
If you have a warm skin tone then warm hair colors are perfect for you, particularly in cases
where eye color is also brown, hazel or green.
For example, you can go for chestnut, rich golden brown, auburn, honey, caramel blonde and
other similar shades.
Cool skin tones, on the other hand, look best with cool colors like ash brown, ash blonde,
platinum, etc.
Those who have a light complexion, and dark eye color can go with any hair color as per their
preference. Similarly, those with dusky skin and light eye color need not be fussy when
selecting shades for coloring their hair.
In case you have a neutral skin tone, you may consider getting beige-blonde or sandy-blonde
highlights.
Strawberry or copper hair highlights would look flattering on olive skin tones.
Funky Hair Color Ideas
Funky hair color ideas work best on edgy haircuts for short, medium as well as long hair. In addition, you
need to stay in sync with the latest trends in hairstyles and colors to help you make a brilliant choice.
Hair color ideas for funky hairdos usually incorporate bold and contrasting shades. While picking such
unconventional colors, though, make sure that they go well with your skin tone and eye color.
The most obvious options for funky hair colors include pink, blue, purple, orange, fluorescent yellow,
green, blonde, turquoise, red, copper, burgundy, violet, and so on.
Gorgeous highlights and lowlights in various colors are usually considered better than monotonous allover hair color. Plus, they are relatively easier to maintain and require less frequent touch ups.
Multi-tonal highlights, when strategically placed, create a stunning effect even with usual shades of brown
and blonde.
Besides, you may consider going for rainbow hues on your hair to express your bold and open attitude.
Another idea is to try peek-a-boo-highlights in funky colors.
Those who love to be different can try punk type or emo/scene hair color ideas to add spunk to their style.
Brunettes, especially the ones with a darker complexion should select deep color tones like auburn, dark
red, deep fuchsia red, black, rich, dark magenta, etc.
Apart from this, tints of golden blonde and light brown tend to accentuate bright-colored eyes.
Blondes, on the other hand, can experiment with light and flirty candy tones.
Nevertheless, if you want to create a funky and fashionable look but feel that the bold hues would look
crazy on you, you may pick more sensible colors and use them creatively to add beauty to your hair.
To keep your style simple yet stunning, just color the end strands or
the layers beneath the crown and use brighter colors on the bangs. Make sure you apply good-quality hair
colors to avoid unnecessary hair damage.
Depending on your personality, another funky hair color idea is to opt for freakish neon highlights like
electric blue, pink, orange, etc.
You could also come up with some creative ideas, for instance, tiger stripped highlights.
In case you are not interested in the maintenance and care required for color-treated tresses, you can opt
for dyed hair extensions.
However, you will have to learn the details regarding proper use of such extensions before actually
applying them.
If you are interested in funky hair color ideas but just want to sport an unusual look for a special occasion,
consider using temporary dyes (sprays and gels) instead of permanent hair colors. You may also use semipermanent colors.
Scene Hair Color Ideas
Scene hair color ideas are quite similar to hair color ideas for emo hairstyles, but they tend to be more
varied and colorful than the latter.
As scene hairstyles incorporate lots of layers, you can use several hair colors to express your individuality.
The overall influence of vibrant colors and choppy scene haircut with side bangs helps create a
strategically messy appearance.
These colors indicate that scene boys and girls are inevitably more confident, cheerful and social.
The most popular scene hair color idea involves coloring your hair black and then adding neon highlights
on them.
You may also add streaks of emo colors in brighter shades. Preferably, choose
colors that complement your skin tone and suit your hair, whether short, medium
or long.
If you are interested in a bold and unique look, you may use rainbow colors on
your locks.
Opting for chic highlights is a great way to add a number of colors at various
sections of your mane. Plus, maintenance of hair highlights is easier than that of
all-over hair color.
Horizontal stripes of colors on highlights are also gaining huge popularity. You can include multi-colors to
create a fun yet gorgeous look.
Scene hair color ideas usually lay emphasis on candy tones.
Colored streaks on bangs around the face look stunning on such hairstyles. Hot pink, electric sky blue and
purple are some of the most common colors used for this purpose.
Scene hair colors are mostly used on basic black or dark-colored tresses. Nevertheless, if you do not want
to darken your hair, you may go for blonde instead.
Brunettes can go for bright red streaks, especially on the inner layers. Shades of auburn shall also look cool
on dark hair.
Blondes can experiment with alluring lowlights combined with chunky highlights. Contrasting colors
enhance the appearance of scene hairstyles.
Green looks great on under layers both in dark as well as light colored tresses.
Those with short, spiky hairstyles can choose to color the tips only.
SECTION 2
Men’s Hair Color Ideas
Unlike the popular misconception, men’s hair color ideas are not merely limited to covering the
grays. Like hair colors for women, men’s hair colors also vary depending on seasons. That is,
during winters, there is more emphasis on darker tones and vice versa for summers.
Flip through various hair coloring guides and magazines to determine colors that would be
attractive yet appropriate on your hairstyle.
For example, using tone on tone color is an excellent men’s hair color idea nowadays.
Nowadays, more and more men are taking interest in latest hair color trends to add zing to
their style. Given below are a few tips and tricks to help you find suitable colors for your locks.
The most important suggestion for choosing
the right hair color involves selecting a color
that suits your complexion.
Therefore, those with darker skin color should
opt for dark shades, whereas the fairer ones
can consider light colors. In addition, pick a
color that is within two shades of your usual
hair color.
Shades of brown usually work well on most of
the skin types and hair. In case you are
interested in creating a sharp look, you can try
shades of blonde, preferably on a hairstyle with
sharp cuts.
If you have blonde hair, you may pick warm
champagne tones.
While doing streaks, just use a few foiling
highlights to stay subtle yet alluring.
When opting for highlights, pay attention
towards the positioning as well as application.
Besides, steer clear of extremely chunky hair
highlights.
In fact, try to blend the highlights along with
lowlights.
In case you have a cool, spiky hairstyle, try
lightening the tips of your hair to accessorize
your style.
Men’s hair color ideas for covering grey hair
focus on choosing a color that is not too dark
as it tends to look unnatural. In addition,
remember to pick more neutral tones.
For maintenance of the color, use shampoos
and conditioners that are meant for colortreated hair, and do touch-ups every 4-6
weeks.
Besides, it is often suggested to color facial hair
as well in order to look younger. Thus, you can
use brush-in color gels for coloring your beard
and mustache.
Unless you are a naturally redheaded guy,
avoid going for red hair color. Instead, opt for
color tones that suit your style and also seem
natural.
As men have been known to be more prone to
hair problems, it is better to use organic hair
colors.
Men’s hair color ideas for creating a more
dramatic look involve the use contrasting color.
Plus, you may go with funky, punk style and
emo hair colors like blue, green, purple, etc.
Auburn Hair Color
Auburn hair color lies between brown and dark red. Unlike other similar colors such as
burgundy and chestnut, this reddish-brown color has more of a reddish tint in sunlight.
However, it has more depth than red.
The lighter shade of this color is like strawberry blonde. Medium auburn is similar to darker side
of ginger red, and dark auburn resembles cinnamon red.
The color is more common in people belonging to the northern and western European areas
but rare in other parts of the world.
Deep auburn colored tresses are more popular
during winter months as compared to summers
because of its richness and warmth.
Moreover, this color tends to enhance the eye
color. While choosing this color, though, pick a
shade that suits your skin the best.
The color perfectly suits dark-haired beauties.
Plus, it can be combined with red highlights to
make dark-auburn look more flattering.
Blonde highlights look stunning on auburn
colored locks.
If you are not sure about getting all over hair
color, then opting for lowlights or highlights is
a great hair color idea.
You can pick a single auburn shade or multitones to enhance your appearance. Moreover,
remember that highlights along the bangs
make your skin look lighter and brighter.
Dark auburn colored hair can have wine red
highlights. This combination would look
amazing on long wavy hair.
Caramel streaks can add to the beauty of
medium auburn hair.
Black women with luxurious dark tresses can
go for auburn red tinted hair.
In case you have dark or light brown hair, you
can sport subtle beautiful auburn lowlights.
Besides, chocolate brown locks look splendid
with bright auburn highlights.
Deep auburn hair color tends to balance out
the sallow tones of yellow skin. This color looks
more reddish on lighter hair colors.
Those with medium skin tone should consider
using medium shade of this reddish-brown
color. If you have dark or olive skin tone and
dark brown or red hair, stay away from bright
auburn; instead try deep mahogany red.
The color may turn into golden auburn when
applied on light blonde hair. On dark-brown
tresses, it may give rise to coppery brown hair
color.
Hence, drastic change to auburn may not prove
successful at all times. In addition, it requires a
good amount of maintenance and upkeep, or
else it can turn brassy due to fading.
Stripping out this hair color is a tricky task in
case of blondes rather than brunettes.
Those who have natural auburn hair color can
choose to lighten up their locks with blonde
highlights and chocolate brown lowlights that
complement their skin tone.
The Level System
Hair color theory is a topic we can never cover too much, with all the experimenting going on
by our readers . . . I figure one more trip down the road couldn't hurt. Besides, repetition is the
basis of all great education. A great way to continue understanding hair color theory is to
understand the difference between Levels and Tones. Levels and Tones are the 2 most
important characteristics of color; every single hair color has these 2 attributes - remember
that. To confuse things at the beginning some rare companies refer to "Tones" as "Shades"...
the more current choice is Tones - so forget 'Shades'. Now, the 2 characteristics of color we will
discuss are Levels and Tones and this post is one that should stick with you to make a lot of
what you do and choose make sense.
LEVELS
For those who are not clear on what the Level System is - the definition is simple - it refers to
the lightness or depth (darkness) of a hair color, be it natural or artificial. Words such as light,
medium, dark, palest, darkest, and very light, tell you about a color's level. Level is, very simply,
how light or how dark a hair color is. The exact definition is simple -- it is the numerical system
of judging color in numbers - one level being a measure of light or dark in the hair. The system
assigns a number for measuring dark to light without regard to tonal value.
The level system is used to determine the lightness or darkness of the color you have whether
natural or processed. Basically, the level system determines how dark or light ANY hair color is
(natural or unnatural).
The tonal value (or tone) is the hue of the natural or processed hair color. This determines
whether the color is cool, neutral or warm. I’m showing examples of cool and warm hair colors
below. A neutral hair color is an equal mixture of both cool and warm.
Here are some examples of cool hair tones:
Icy Blonde:
Cool Dark Brunette:
Cool Medium Red:
Warm tones include colors that have gold, orange and reds in them. These tones are richer and
usually look great on most everyone. Cooler tones can be harsher on a lot of skin tones.
Warmer tones (especially golden tones) generally bring more color into your complexion and
give a more youthful appearance because of it. I’ve seen women come in with too blond
highlights on a too ashy base color and the harshness draws attention to every line and wrinkle
in their face. Just by changing the base color to a warmer color, it adds a softness and youthful
glow to the skin, thereby decreasing attention to imperfections. Here are some examples of
warmer-toned hair color:
Warm Chocolate
Brunette:
Warm Medium Red: (note the
warm copper undertones as
compared to the violet-y pink
undertones in the medium cool
red pic above)
Light Golden Brown:
Light Copper Red:
Light Golden Blonde:
Some Rules of Hair Color
1. Color does not lift color: Meaning, if you have hair that has been colored dark and you
put a light color over it, nothing will happen. You will have to use bleach. When you put
color on top of color it will make your hair darker, this is how people often end up with
black ends even though they have just been using brown color.
2. Gray coverage: When you have lots of gray you need a certain type of color to cover the
gray because it can be resistant.
3. 10 volume = deposit, 20 volume = deposit (for gray hair to open the cuticle more) or up
to one level of lift, 30 volume = 2 levels of lift, and 40 volume = 3 to 4 levels of lift.
4. Know your underlying pigment: which means if you are lifting hair, these tones will
come up that you will need to control with certain pigments. You will usually need a
blue or ash base depending on the level. Level 2 – 7 usually requires blue and 8 – 10
blue/violet.
This is a chart of the underlying pigments for each level when you lighten hair. As you can see, it
is very easy to end up with brassy hair if you don’t know how color works.
THE LEVEL SYSTEM IS MANDATORY KNOWLEDGE in charting your plan for coloring your hair.
Whether the goal is:
Level 1 Black
Level 12 – Platinum WHITE
The factors that make the level System Differ from person to person:
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Porosity
Density
Resistance
Length
Growth Direction
Scalp Abrasion
Texture
Condition
Scalp Disorder
Virgin Hair Color
Strength
Elasticity
Previous Hair Color and or Treatments (remember hair CAN be repaired and remoisturized)
Hair Color 101
Begin with a Consultation
To give your clients the beautiful results they want, you need to understand the differences in
hair color types, as well as how they affect hair’s structure.
Gorgeous hair color doesn't just happen. It takes a skilled colorist—one who understands hair's
structure and the difference between hair color formulas.
As you consult with your client, be sure you ask what kind of results she's looking for, as well as
how long she wants her color to last.
If she's looking to dramatically change her hair color (up to 4 Levels darker or lighter) or wants
100% gray coverage, choose a permanent formula. On the other hand, if she wants to refresh,
enhance or darken her current color, or is looking for about 50% gray coverage, a demipermanent formula will give her beautiful results with less commitment.
Once you've chosen either permanent or demi-permanent color, you need to decide whether
you want to work with a liquid or creme formula. Many colorists prefer liquids for their speed
of application, while others like the greater application control of a creme.
Sectioning and Saturation
Before You Color
• Always do a preliminary patch test 24 hours before applying color.
• Always do a color preview strand test.
Virgin Application: Going Darker
Use this method when color is close to or deeper than the natural Level of hair color.
1. Part hair in 4 equal sections.
2. Apply to dry hair. Take ¼ to ½ inch partings and begin application at root area, working
color all the way down to the ends immediately. Apply generously with applicator bottle
or brush, making sure hair is thoroughly saturated.
3. Note: If ends are porous or damaged, apply the mixture only to three-quarters of the
strand first. Allow mixture to develop for about 15 minutes, and then work through to
the ends. Strand test the ends to determine color development and timing.
4. Allow color to develop for a minimum of 15 minutes.
5. Do a strand test for color development. (Normal processing time is approximately 30
minutes, but for maximum lightening and gray coverage allow complete development
time of 45 minutes.)
6. When desired color is achieved, spray hair with a little warm water and work into lather
at the shampoo bowl. Rinse thoroughly.
7. Shampoo and rinse until water runs clear.
Virgin Application: Going Lighter
Use this method when the color is one or more Levels lighter than your client's natural hair
color Level.
1. Part hair in 4 equal sections.
2. Apply to dry hair, beginning one inch away from scalp, down to and including the ends.
Use the applicator bottle or brush. Application is made 1 inch away from scalp because
the hair away from the root area receives less natural body heat and will take a little
longer to decolorize.
3. Allow color to develop for a minimum of 15 minutes. Check strand for color
development.
4. Continue checking until hair is decolorized half as much as desired.
5. Mix a fresh hair color formula and apply to root area, making certain that hair shafts and
ends are thoroughly re-saturated.
6. After 15 minutes, check a strand for color development. (Normal processing time is
approximately 30 minutes, but for maximum lightening and gray coverage allow
complete development time of 45 minutes). Leave color on hair until color is uniform
from roots to ends.
7. At shampoo bowl, spray hair with a little warm water and work into lather and rinse
thoroughly.
8. Shampoo and rinse until water runs clear.
Note for experienced stylists:
If you are an experienced colorist, you may wish to use 30-or 40-volume developer in the
formula for use on the shaft and ends.
When application to shaft and ends is complete, immediately mix a fresh formula using 10- or
20-volume developer and apply to root area.
For longer hair, use cotton strips to protect the root area while color is applied to shaft and
ends.
Retouch Application
1. Refer to your records for the previously used formula and timing, and be sure to do a
patch test 24 hours before retouching.
2. Part hair in 4 equal sections.
3. Apply to dry hair, using applicator bottle or brush. Outline each section separately with
the color formula.
4. Using the tip of the applicator nozzle or brush handle, make - to -inch parts and
generously apply the hair color mixture to new growth area only.
5. If lightening the hair, start application where hair is the darkest
6. If gray hair is present, begin application at the grayest portion of the hair
7. Check color development periodically, using your hair color record as a timing guide.
Test strand and check color until desired shade is reached. Be sure to reapply hair color
to strand after each test.
Formulating For Level and Tone
Level and Tone
Tone is generally described as being either WARM or COOL. To formulate properly, one must
determine:
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Starting Tone
Desired Tone
How to utilize color wheel to either enhance or neutralize a tonality.
Neutral is best described as a Brown to Brown-Gray. Clairol Professional Neutral is a balanced
brown. To create Neutral, you simply mix an equal ratio of all three primary colors (Blue, Red
and Yellow).
For more information, please refer to our Color Theory section.
Natural Levels and Contributing Pigment
Levels refer to the degree of lightness or darkness, regardless of tone. Natural hair colors
contribute their color to the final result when artificial hair color is added.
Contributing pigment is exposed warmth resulting from the lightening process. This can either
be enhanced or neutralized.
For accurate results and to control contributing pigment, formulate shades that are within 2
Levels of Natural Level.
Developers
Developers are oxidizing agents. The hydrogen peroxide in the developer delivers the required
oxygen gas to develop color molecules and to lighten natural melanin.
10 Volume
Use when little to no lift is desired on pigmented hair. This is the only volume suitable with
powder lighteners on chemically relaxed hair and provides the slowest, most controlled lift.
20 Volume
The standard volume for covering gray and for lifting hair is 1-2 Levels. With powder lighteners,
20-volume is used often on hair that is non-porous and in good condition. Only 20-volume is
used with 7th Stage Liquid Lightener.
30 Volume
Fast lightening, is for 2-3 clean Levels of lift. This volume can be used with Basic White powder
lightener.
40 Volume
For use with high-lift (3-4 Levels) permanent hair color shades use the 40 volume. Used in 1:2
mix ratio with high-lift blonde shades. Not for use with powder lighteners.
SECTION 3
Color Theory
Putting Color Theory into Practice
Hair color results can be summed up in a simple equation:
Contributing Pigment + Artificial Color = Final Result
To determine these different statements, you need to understand a few basic hair color terms.
Base Color- The dominant color in any hair color mixture that gives a shade its overall
characteristic.
Level- The degree of lightness or darkness, regardless of Tone.
Tone- The warmth or coolness of a color
• Warm Tones reflect light and appear lighter.
• Cool Tones absorb light and appear darker.
To formulate properly, you must determine:
• Starting tone
• Desired tone
• How to utilize the color wheel to either enhance or neutralize a tonality
Base Colors and Tonal Results
Natural Level
There are 10 Natural Hair Color
Levels. Levels 6-10 are Blonde; Levels
1-5 are Brown. These swatches
approximate natural hair color
shades. Natural hair colors contribute
their color to the final result when
artificial color is added.
Contributing Pigment
Every Natural Level has
Contributing Pigments, or
underlying warmth. It is exposed
during lightening and affects the
final color result. It can be
enhanced or neutralized,
depending on your desired results.
Maintaining Blonde Hair Color
Keep the brassy tones out of your blonde hair style by using a color depositing shampoo and
conditioner.
The conditioners work the best because they don't contain cleansing agents and can be left on
the hair for long periods. The longer they're left on and more often they're used, the more
pigment is deposited onto your hair strand.
Blonde Hair Style Photos
Platinum blonde hair style
(Level 10 -- this could actually be
considered level 11 or 12, but the
traditional color level system only
goes to 10, so we'll stick with that.)
This shade can only be achieved by
bleaching and toning the hair.
It's best for shorter hair styles
because of the damage bleaching
hair to this degree causes. The ends
of long hair have been around,
exposed to the elements for at least
a year or two. They'd look awful
after being so severely bleached.
Ash blonde hair style
(level 10 with level 6-8 lowlights)
A combination of light blonde
highlights and ash toned lowlights
create a nice multi-tonal blonde.
This is the best way to use ash
tones. An all-over ash color can look
greyish, but breaking it up by only
using the ash for lowlights looks
great!
Yellowish-blonde hair style
(level 9)
A light blonde with a slightly
yellowish tone. You'll notice the
yellow if you enlarge the image and
compare it to the ash or platinum
above.
This is about as much yellow as a
blonde should have before it starts
looking brassy. If you look closely,
you'll see that the yellow tones are
broken up with platinum blonde
highlights.
Neutral slightly golden blonde
(level 8)
An all over medium dark, slightly
golden toned blonde. This shade
works very well with a warm skin
tone.
Gold tones are always better when
they lean toward the neutral end of
the spectrum. Too much gold can
look brassy and artificial.
When choosing a hair color (if
you’re doing it yourself) ALWAYS
takes into account your underlying
pigment. If you choose a golden
blonde off the shelf and apply it to
your hair with an orange-yellow
underlying pigment, you'll end up
with a VERY bright, brassy gold
color.
Golden blonde with light blonde
highlights
(level 7)
The highlights are nicely placed and
the tone blends well with the
golden shade of the darker color.
Just a few foils in the top layer of
your hair can add great impact and
work well to break up a solid color.
Sandy blonde hair style
(level 7)
This dark blonde compliments
cooler skin tones. It's very neutral,
but without the gold in the photos
above.
If you opt for a color like this, make
sure the cut has some texture and
personality. Otherwise your hair
could look a bit drab.
A few skinny foils 1 or 2 shades
lighter would be a nice addition to
break up this color and add some
dimension.
Multi-tonal blonde
(level 7)
This color has a bit of everything.
Foil highlights were added in every
one of the above mentioned tones.
It's a bit too much.
If this were my client, I'd
recommend we add a level 8 color
gloss over top which would not
affect the darker tones. It'd add a
bit more darkness to the lightest
pieces and create more harmony.
She'd still have a multi-tonal blonde,
but it wouldn't be so reminiscent of
a calico cat.
Stick with a maximum of three
colors when foiling for a multi-tonal
effect.
If you're coloring your hair blonde, consider having your eyebrows tinted.
TIPS FOR BLONDS
1. When lightening brown to blonde, remember there may be underlying unwanted warm
tones.
2. When covering gray hair with a blonde color use a level 7 or darker.
3. Double-processing is best way to get light pale blonde.
4. If using high-lift blondes that lift only 5 levels, the results can be too warm or brassy.
5. If highlights become too blonde, lowlights can be foiled into hair for a more natural
color.
Brunette Hair Style Photos and Advice
Tips for Choosing, Achieving and Maintaining Your Color
Shades of brunette range from a light ash tone to a deep chestnut and everything in between.
Browns are classic, rich, mysterious, and the easiest of all haircolor to maintain.
Browns sometimes need to be deepened to add impact, which can easily be done with a semi
or demi permanent color.
Many times, all that's needed to boost a brunette shade is a bit of shine. Apply a color gloss, in
either a tinted shade or clear.
If you feel the need to lighten things up a bit, opt for a few foiled highlights, rather than an allover blonde hair color. That way, you'll get a more natural look, without the heavy maintenance
that's inevitable when lightening brown hair to blonde.
Take the time to learn about hair color chemistry. The more you understand, the better your
hair color results will be.
Maintaining Brown Hair Color
Keep the rich brown tones present in your hair color by using a color depositing shampoo and
conditioner.
The conditioners work the best because they don't contain cleansing agents and can be left on
the hair for long periods.
The longer they're left on and more often they're used, the more pigment is deposited onto
your hair strand.
Brunette Hair Style Photos
Ash Brown
(Level 6 with level 7 & 8 natural
highlights)
This shade of ash brown is difficult
to achieve with artificial hair color.
There is just enough highlighting
from the sun to bump this color out
of the "mousy" category.
Adding a few medium ash or beige
blonde foil highlights throughout
the top of the hair would give a
similar effect.
Light Auburn Brunette
(level 6-7)
This shade is just on the verge of
belonging in the Red Hair Color
section. It's a very warm shade of
brunette, which brightens a medium
to fair, warm skin tone.
Avoid this shade if you have a cool
(pinkish) skin tone.
Medium Brunette With Flair!
(levels 6 & 9)
Jazz up a solid brown hair color with
panels of gold. Slice out a few strips
of hair near the front. Get creative
with the positioning. Consider how
the hair will lay. Not just the
highlighted piece, but the hair
around it too. Use foil highlights to
color just the section you want
lightened.
The effect is made more dramatic
the lighter (or brighter) you go. This
technique can be done using any
(complimentary) combination of
colors.
Medium "True" Brunette
(level 5)
Thoughts of "brunette hair color"
often bring to mind a picture of
precisely this shade. It is a beautiful,
rich shade -- not too light, not too
dark. This is another one that's
difficult to capture with artificial
permanent haircolor.
If this is the shade you're trying to
achieve, opt for a semi-permanent,
which doesn't lift the underlying
pigment. The underlying pigment
always brings gold and warmth into
the picture because of the way it's
formulated. To avoid the gold, go
with a "deposit only" hair color.
Dark Brunette Hair Color
(level 3-4)
This deep rich, shade of brunette
has a warm hue, great for a
dramatic effect on warm skin tones.
A sprinkle of very thin highlights,
just a shade or two lighter, adds
some dimension to the color.
Deepest Brunette
(level 2)
This shade is slightly darker than the
one above, and has cool
undertones, rather than warm. Can
you see the difference? If you can,
great! You're developing the eye of
a colorist!
The cool hue makes this color
suitable for (you guessed it), cool
skin tones. A clear color gloss,
applied every few months, will
maintain the shine that is so
important with such a deeply
saturated color.
If you're coloring your hair to a brown shade that is darker than your natural color, consider
having your eyebrows tinted.
TIPS FOR BRUNETTES
1. Avoid orange or brassy tones when lifting brown hair with permanent color, by using a
cool blue base.
2. Avoid brassy tones by not lightening more than two levels above the natural color.
3. Add 1 oz. of a natural color to cover gray in brunette.
4. Natural highlights in brunette should be deep or caramel colored.
Understanding Red Hair Color
Getting the Right Red
Shades of red hair color vary from light strawberry to fiery copper to rich auburn.
Once your hair is colored, keeping the red in your hair becomes the challenge. Red hair color
contains the smallest of hair color molecules.
Small molecules enter the hair shaft easily, so your hair soaks up the color.
They also escape from the hair shaft easily, which means you wash many of them down the
drain each time you shampoo.
To prevent those sneaky red hair color molecules from leaching out, use a pigmented shampoo
and conditioner. These products deposit color molecules back onto your hair every time you
use them.
Red Hair Color Pictures
Light Strawberry Blonde
(level 9)
This color has bleached blonde foil
highlights, which lighten the overall
color.
Best neutral, fair skin tones. If your
hair is already quite light, this is a
good option. Really dark hair will
require A LOT of maintenance to
deal with the regrowth.
Bright Copper Red
(level 8)
This is a great, rich
copper/strawberry. It's a very bright
color, so beware!
Many women feel sure they want a
bright shade like this... until they're
looking at it on their own hair.
Dark Copper Red
(level 7)
Same advice as above with this
color. It's very bright. Not for the
faint of heart.
Reds like this are difficult to tone
down once the molecules are in
your hair. It can be done, but it'll
end up being a darker color than
you probably wanted.
Neutral copper Red
(level 7)
This shade is more reminiscent of a
"natural redhead." Could be
described as a ginger spice color.
It's very rich and not overly bright...
a good choice if you want a more
subdued red hair color.
Light Auburn Red
(level 6)
The tone of this auburn hair color is
deeper than the coppers above.
Very rich without being too dark.
A great color for fair skinned women
who find the coppers too bright.
Auburn Red
(level 5)
Also a rich auburn, just slightly
darker than the one above.
These reds have enough brown
pigment to keep them from being
overly bright.
Dark Auburn Red
(level 4)
A very rich, deep auburn red hair
color. This is a beautiful shade. It's
just one level darker than the photo
above. The differences in color
levels are subtle.
If you spend a lot of time in the sun,
it's wise to opt for a shade darker
than you want to compensate for
the inevitable fading.
If you're coloring a client’s hair red, consider having their eyebrows tinted. Many women have
ash toned eyebrows, which contrast with the warm, spicy red tones.
TIPS FOR REDS
1. Create warm coppery reds by using a red-orange base color.
2. Create hot fiery reds by using a red-violet or true red color.
3. After permanent color, use a no-lift deposit-only color to refresh.
4. If gray is present, add ½ to 1 oz. of a natural color.
Refresh reds with a soap cap to brighten haircolor. A soap cap is equal parts of shampoo and
the remaining color formula.
SECTION 4
The Fundamentals of Foil Highlighting
There are many different ways to foil, but they all begin with these essential steps. This section
will detail the technical aspects of highlighting hair using foils (or another material).
Formulate a plan before you start. Once you've decided which methods you'll employ, here are
the technical details.
Before You Begin
1. Pre-cut and pre-fold aluminum foil. Use 4x5 pieces, or larger, depending on the length
of the hair.
2. Study your client's cut and style and discuss the dimensional effects desired.
3. The client's hair must be brushed out and completely tangle-free.
4. Take a Color Preview Strand Test.
5. Do not apply mixture if skin is red or irritated or if Preview Strand Test shows any sign of
breakage or damage.
6. Map out where your foil wraps will be placed and comb the hair into working sections.
7. Clip loose hair to allow for control during the foiling process.
8. Mix the highlighting formula in a non-metallic bowl.
9. Follow the weaving or slicing method of foil wrapping within the design you have
mapped out.
Doing the Wrap
1. Part dry hair according to desired effect and begin foil application in the back nape
section. (This gives you easy rinsing access if these strands lighten before total
application is complete.)
2. Using the handle of a tail comb, weave through each section, selecting fine strands of
hair. Remember, every foil wrap becomes a highlight...the more you weave and the
more strands you wrap, the more highlights you’ll get.
3. Hold woven strands out at a 90-degree angle from the head. Slip comb through the fold
in the foil. Holding firmly, center edge of foil under woven strands, as close to the base
of strands as possible.
4. Lay selected strands in the center of the foil, holding the ends of the hair taut so they lay
flat against the foil. Remove comb.
5. Start application away from the scalp, working the formula down the strand. Be sure
each strand is thoroughly and evenly saturated with mixture. Keep product 1/8- inch
away from the edge of the foil.
6. Fold bottom edge of foil to top edge. Do not press foil down where mixture is on hair.
7. Gently fold both sides of foil inward about inch.
Check Development
1. Check strand for development 20 minutes after the first foil placement. Select a foil
from the first wrapped section.
2. Hold a towel under the selected foil. Unwrap the foil and, with a spray bottle, spray
strand with water. Check results. Dry strand thoroughly. If additional time is needed,
reapply mixture and rewrap as before.
3. When hair has lightened as desired, remove foil wraps (in the same order as applied) at
the shampoo bowl and thoroughly rinse mixture from hair. Shampoo.
Additional Advice:
1. If it takes a long time to complete the entire foiling application, and the first section
foiled is sufficiently decolorized, remove each of the processed foils by holding a towel
under the foil, wetting the strand, and wiping the formula off the strand.
2. If you prefer to increase the volume of developer as you proceed through your foiling,
make note of the time you began. This will help to determine the entire processing time
for the foils.
Highlight and Low-light Process
This section features hair coloring pictures of a foiling process for your reference. The process
demonstrated in this section was done with foils from the temples up, and solid dark brown
hair color from the temples down. The foils were used to highlight the hair blonde while adding
color back with permanent brown hair color in the alternating foils.
Overview
This hair color was done at the end of summer. The client's hair is very-porous and overhighlighted to the point where it's become an all-over blonde with little color dimension.
The tone, as is common with blonde hair color, is slightly brassy and her regrowth is an ash
tone. She wanted a multi-tonal color, highlighted and lowlighted on top, and a solid very dark
brown underneath.
Step 1.
Multiple sections were weaved and foiled above the temples. Blonde and medium brown colors
were alternated to add dimension and bring back some depth to the color. All foils were then
clipped up out of the way, and the dark brown color was applied from the temples/occipital
bone down. It's important to ensure that those blonde pieces don't dangle down into any of the
dark color that is applied in the bottom section. Use duckbill clips (or even small metal clips) to
position those strands in a safe spot.
Step 2.
This photo shows a good view of the solid dark brown color applied to all underneath sections.
The hair must be parted in about half inch sections and color applied right from the root
through to the ends. This is especially important when covering over blonde, porous hair. If you
miss a spot, it'll be obvious in the finished hair color...and not in a good way.
Step 3.
Once the colors have processed to the appropriate stage, the foils are removed and the hair
color and bleach are rinsed well. A semi-permanent ash based color is applied as a toner, only
to the roots, as the ends being over-porous will absorb the purple/grey tone from the toner.
The objective of the toner is to match the newly bleached pieces to the blonde that is left on
the ends. Adding the medium brown foils throughout the top sections brings some dimension
back to the over-blonde ends.
Step 4.
The hair was then shaped into a nice layered style, which updates the look and showcases the
color. Unfortunately, because of the black T-shirt, it's difficult to see the dark sections
underneath, but they're there. And they add a lot of dimension and personality to this hair
color. As these hair coloring pictures show, this highlight/low-light process gives the client a
much more mature and refined look. Because of the dark sections, this hair color should last for
up to 3 months as the re-growth will be nicely disguised because there isn't such a contrast
between the all-over blonde and the ashy re-growth.
Advanced Highlighting Methods
Colorists may use alternative methods of foil placement patterns, techniques (slicing vs.
weaving) and foil wrapping. Methods are generally determined by the client’s style and desired
color effect. Colorists may choose one type or may combine various patterns, techniques and
wrapping methods to achieve results.
Foil Placement Patterns
There are 3 basic patterns of foil placement: block pattern (see The Fundamentals of Foil
Highlighting), bricklayering and angling.
Brick-layering
Hair is sectioned into 4 – 5 sections depending on the density, texture and head shape. Foil
placement alternates from 3 foils in a row to 2 foils in the next row. This pattern is repeated
throughout application.
Angling
Hair is sectioned in the basic block wrap pattern and the hair is sliced or woven at a slight angle
starting at the hairline. Place each foil at an angle, working towards the tip of the ear. Continue
wrapping in a semicircular movement, placing each foil at a slight angle to achieve a curved
effect.
Techniques
There are two basic techniques for picking up the hair during the foil process: weaving and
slicing. One technique could be used alone for highlighting or the techniques could be
alternated, depending on the desired highlighting effects.
Weaving
Weaving is the classic method for foil wrapping. Weaving can be used in combination with the
slicing method.
1. To weave, always part very fine sections—no more than 3 inches wide and 1/8-inch
thick.
2. Move the end of a tail comb through the surface of the entire section in an in-and-out
pattern until you have separated the row.
3. Place the foil under the strands you have weaved. Brush formula onto the strands, then
wrap the foil and secure.
WEAVE AND FOIL PROCEDURES
Because weave and foil techniques are so predominant in today's salons, every colorist needs
to have skill in the application of these techniques. Frosts are being replaced with more
accurate and professional foils with weaving and foiling techniques. These techniques not only
intrigue the client and look as though they are more artistic and difficult, they are nearly
impossible to duplicate at home. Here are some suggestions for great streaks or weavings.
Weave Procedure
After consultation, plan color(s) to be used and your pattern. Example: Use two colors, a blonde
and a medium red, to add highlights. Alternate two blonde weavings with one red to have a
golden blonde highlight, two red with one blond for a more strawberry blonde effect, or one
medium lift light blonde, one darker golden blonde, and one thin slice one or two levels darker
than the client's own color This gives movement and dimension to the hair.
Use 3 formulas for a dimensional effect that creates movement:
1. medium lift light blond
2. one darker golden blonde
3. one darker than client's color
Remember the Rules of Haircoloring, especially #4. Include enough of the darker tint formula to
"ground" the hair color and give it a balanced effect. The beauty of planning your pattern is that
it allows you creativity and helps customize your techniques.
1. Prepare foils (should be done before your scheduled appointment time).
2. Prepare your client for a tint, remembering to use tint apron or smock and gloves for
yourself.
3. Divide the hair into the desired sections. Your vertical panels should be no wider than
three inches.
4. Two choices:
1. When making your subsections, begin parting at the bottom of each panel and
work up to avoid slippage of the woven strands.
2. If beginning at the top, lay your foil against the top of the head and push each
strand up against it to avoid slippage.
5. When performing a weave procedure, mix very small amounts of product, enabling
continuity in lift and timing. If bleach is used for the procedure, stagger volumes to
control the lift. Example: first panel, use 10 volume, second use 20, etc.
6. Beginning in the area that requires the most lift or deposit effect, part a I /4-inch
subsection horizontally and hold at a 90° angle from the base with tension.
7. Holding a wiretail comb parallel to the section, beginning on the right side of the
section, insert the wiretail comb with an up and down motion, weaving across
subsection hair to the opposite side of the section.
8. With the woven hair grasped in your thumb and forefinger, push the lower part of the
subsection downward with the wiretail, separating the strands.
9. If using choice (a), take one piece of precut foil; fold the top 1/4 inch over the edge of
the wiretail comb, making a clean, straight fold.
It's a toss up. Some people prefer the folded edge on the under side of the foil, some
prefer the folded edge on the upper side.
10. Lift the separated subsection and place the wiretail with foil attached directly under the
parting against the scalp.
11. Hold the edges of foil from above, just past the edges of the sub-sectioned strands. Slide
the wiretail comb out without disturbing the hair.
12. Still holding the thumb and finger against the foil, load the tint brush with your
premixed formula. Starting 1 / I 6 inch from the edge of foil, apply to all strands on foil
with a downward motion, allowing for complete coverage and keeping the hair in place
on the foil.
13. With your thumb and finger against the foil, fold the foil toward the scalp in half; fold
left side over to the center, then the right side or use the wiretail to crease the foil and
bend it where desired.
14. For a heavy foiled effect, weave from each subsection. For more subtle results, apply to
every other section.
15. More than one color may be used. Remember to frequently mix small batches of color,
ensuring the proper processing.
16. When checking the processing, make sure to keep foils close to the scalp. If the first
sections need removing before the last sections are complete, use a towel and water
spray to stop processing action. Or use an antioxidant (product that halts oxidation).
17. Foils need not be removed individually when rinsing. Place the client's head in the
shampoo bowl, apply medium temperature and water pressure, and foils will "rinse"
from the hair.
18. Shampoo with the appropriate shampoo and conditioner.
19. Style to desired finish.
If you use choice (b), just place the straight edge of the foil against the section line at scalp and
bend hair strand over it to hold the foil in place as you apply the product. Then simply fold the
edge back to the part so the foil bends in half to the scalp.
Foil Procedure
The foil procedure would follow the same steps as the weave procedure, except for the
following:
1. Rather than weaving pieces from each section, the horizontal subsection taken is much
smaller, up to 1/16 inch depending on hair density. Color is then applied to the entire
subsection, eliminating the weave process.
2. Color is applied to small sections mentioned in # 1, but the uncolored sub-sections will
be taken in 1/8- to I/2-inch partings.
3. You may use one, two, three, or four colors and may also use bleach or a blonding
creme mixture.
4. Processing, checking, and removal are identical to the weave procedure.
5. Due to the elimination of the weaving process, the foil technique enables the service to
be completed more quickly. However, to ensure correct results extreme care must be
taken to maintain very small subsections while applying.
As with any other technical service, practice builds speed. So practice, practice, practice!
Weave caps: Used most often in highlighting, twilighting, and lowlighting, your stylist pulls
small strands through holes in the weave cap. The effect is usually a subtle change that
enhances your basic hair color. Highlighting with a weave cap also helps to camouflage gray or
roots growing back after a permanent hair color application.
Foiling: Your stylist places sections of hair onto rectangular sheets of foil and applies color or
lightener, folding the foil to keep the color in place and away from other sections. Of all
highlighting techniques, foiling can be applied closest to the root.
Baliage: A great application for textured, natural curls, or wavy hair. Your stylist selects specific
areas and hand paints them with color. This dramatic implementation of a hair coloring
technique leaves you with a very “personal” appearance! It’s important to note that although
kits are available for most all hair coloring techniques; professional stylists have the skill that
comes with experience. Especially for hard to color shades like gray, platinum, and black hair,
it’s wisest to consult a professional before you try a new hair color technique at home!
Caramel-Flagging Technique: Caramel-flagging produces brilliant highlights, lowlights, and
shine on gray hair with a diffused regrowth line and low maintenance.
1. Divide hair in three sections. Then divide sections ear to ear.
2. On 30% to 75% gray hair use three formulas:
1. Formula # 1 is two to four levels lighter than natural base color with 30 or 40
volume developer May use high lift color or lightening formula such as Blazing
Hair.
2. Formula #2 is at the same level or one level lighter as the base color in golden or
red-brown tone with 20 volume developer.
3. Formula #3 is at the same level as the base color or one level darker in a natural
tone with I 0 or 20 volume developer.
3. Using tiny slices (1/6 inch) and the foiling technique, apply color to all the hair.
4. On the top third of the head, apply Formula # I alternating with Formula #2 and #3,
Example: # I , #2, # I , #3, # I , #2, # I , #3 so there are more of # I.
5. On the middle third of the head, apply even amounts of all three colors.
6. On the lower third of the head, apply Formula #3 alternating with #2. Use # I with the
first alternation only Use #2 (base color) at all hairline areas and scalp to ensure 100%
coverage.
7. Process 10 to 20 minutes until desired tones are achieved.
8. Remove foils; shampoo and condition.
Slicing
For many expert colorists, slicing has become an alternative method of picking up hair, because
it is fast.
1. To slice, part sections up to 3 inches wide and from 1/6- to 1/8-inch thick. KEEP SLICES
THIN.
2. Place the foil underneath the strands. Brush formula onto the strands, fold the foil and
secure.
Whichever technique you choose, remember to keep the sections thin. Do not take large
sections of hair as this will result in spotting on the scalp, and a striped effect. If the client
desires many highlights, place more foils in the hair.
Foil Wrapping
The alternate methods of folding the foils are double foils (or foil-on-foil) and the two-fold
method.
Double Foils (Foil-on-Foil)
This is ideal for retouching, or when portions of the shaft and ends need protection while
highlighting.

Weave or slice the hair and secure the first foil in place. After application of the formula,
take a second foil of the same size and place on top of the first foil. Fold sides inward.
Two-Fold Wrap
An alternative method for use when applying formula only to selected portions of the hair
strands.


Place foil underneath strands. Apply formula only to those areas to be highlighted or
colored. (Conditioner may be applied to protect rest of strand.) Fold bottom third of the
foil over the ends of the hair (or wherever hair needs protection).
Fold foil up to the edge and fold sides inward.
Basic Hair Coloring Technique
The following is a normal tint application using a brush procedure found to be effective:
1. Begin applying at the top of the head.
2. Slant your sections up toward the front to accommodate the round shape of the head.
3. Use very small section lines (1/8 inch for retouches and 1/4 inch for shaft applications).
4. Start 1/2 inch out from scalp for virgin lightening or reds.
5. Apply from roots to ends with virgin hair going same tone or darker.
6. Rest the handle of the brush on the tips of the forefinger and middle finger; hold the
brush in place with your thumb.
7. Rotate the brush between thumb and finger to use the tip of the handle to make
diagonal partings.
8. Draw a line to your thumb.
9. Grasp the sectioned hair between thumb and forefinger.
10. Push excess hair downward with the brush handle still flat to separate the strands.
11. Then lift the strand away and out with tension, then upward.
12. Dip brush in color formula.
13. Scrape the product from the back side of the brush.
14. Rotate the brush in your fingers and apply to the regrowth from the top of the regrowth
in one continuous motion.
15. If regrowth is less than 1/4 inch use the edge of the brush, drawing tips of brush along
the sub-parting, working the color into the scalp.
16. Repeat until finished.
Helpful reminders:
Some reminders may be helpful:





Be careful! Don't overlap!
Dip your brush in the color formula for each section application.
Remove any excess color from the skin around the hairline as soon as your application is
completed. The more care you take during and immediately after application, the easier
the color removal will be!
Lift the hair out from the scalp to assist the oxidation process.
If you are applying to the shaft or ends, coat the brush more liberally. (These areas are
more porous and require more products.)
You should still use only one side of the brush for neatness; hold the hair on your outstretched
palm and work the color into the hair on your palm. After coating all the hair comb the product
from scalp to ends, or as indicated by the process you require.
Your color is complete when the desired color is reached (usually when the regrowth matches
the shaft and ends).
Georgia Department of Technical
and Adult Education
Skin, Diseases,
Disorders
Copyright © October 2002 by Georgia Department of Technical and Adult Education.
All rights reserved. No part of this manual may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by
any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information
storage and retrieval system, without written permission from Georgia Department of
Technical and Adult Education.
Published December 2002
(C121002)
Table of Contents
Skin, Diseases, Disorders………………….....................................................1
Introduction........................................................................................... 1
Objectives.............................................................................................. 2
Anatomy and Histology of the Skin..………………...................................... 3
Nerves of the Skin .................................................................................. 5
Glands of the Skin .................................................................................. 5
Nourishment of the Skin......................................................................... 6
Functions of the Skin .............................................................................. 6
Terminology ........................................................................................... 7
Diseases and Disorders…………………........................................................10
Skin Conditions /Descriptions.............................................................. 11
Skin, Diseases, Disorders
Introduction
The flexible, waterproof, tough protective covering known as the skin is the largest organ in the
body both by weight and surface area. Skin accounts for approximately 16% of the body’s
weight.
Healthy skin has a fine texture that is slightly moist, soft, and flexible.
Varying in thickness, the skin is thinnest on the eyelids and thickest on the palms and soles. A
callous can be caused by continuous friction on any part of the skin.
The skin has appendages that include the hair, sweat and oil glands, and the nails. Composed of
the substance known as keratin, this protein gives the skin its protective ability. The skin is
slightly acidic in pH, which enables good immunity responses to intruding organisms. Normally
the skin separates the internal environment from the external. However skin diseases and
infections can invade that barrier. For this reason, a thorough understanding of the histology of
the skin and its diseases and disorders is needed for a better position to give clients professional
advice.
Objectives
Upon completion of this course, trainees will be able to:
 Explain the structure and the composition of the skin.
 Identify the functions of the skin.
 Describe terms relating to skin disorders.
 Recognize which skin diseases/disorders may be dealt with in the salon and which should be
referred to a physician.
 Identify online dermatology resources.
Anatomy and Histology of
the Skin
The two major divisions of the skin are the dermis and the epidermis.
The outermost layer of the skin is the epidermis that is composed of sheets of dead cells that
serve as the major waterproof barrier to the environment. The epidermis is the visible layer of
skin. This layer contains numerous nerve endings, but no blood vessels. The human epidermis is
renewed every 15-30 days.
The epidermis consists of many layers. The stratum corneum is the outer layer that is often
called the horny layer. Cells are continually being shed and replaced. This layer of skin for the
most part is dead - it is composed of cells that are almost pure protein.
The stratum lucidum consists of translucent cells through which light can penetrate.
The stratum granulosum, known as the granular layer, consists of cells that resemble
granules. These cells are transforming into a harder form of protein.
The stratum mucosum is also known as the basal cell layer. Basal cells are continuously being
reproduced. It is the deepest layer of the epidermis. This layer also contains melanocytes that
produce the coloring matter known as melanin and determines skin color. Melanocytes also
react to ultraviolet rays to darken the skin for added protection.
The middle layer, the dermis, provides a tough, flexible foundation for the epidermis. In the
dermis, body temperature is regulated by sweat glands and blood vessels. It also contains arector
pilli muscles, papillae, and hair follicles. Nerve endings send sensations of pain, itching, touch,
and temperature to the brain. The skin is moisturized by oil glands that produce sebum.
The dermis consists of two layers. The papillary layer connects the dermis to the epidermis.
Tactile corpuscles are nerve fiber endings that contain looped capillaries. Tactile corpuscles are
responsible for the sense of touch. The papillary layer also contains some of the melanin.
The reticular layer is the deepest layer of the dermis. It contains fat cells, blood vessels, lymph
vessels, oil glands, sweat glands, hair follicles, and arrector pilli muscles. The reticular layer
supplies the skin with oxygen and nutrients.
Subcutaneous tissue is the fatty layer found below the dermis. It is also called the adipose or the
subcutis tissue. It varies in thickness according to age, sex, and general health of the
individual. The subcutaneous tissue contains fats for energy, gives smoothness and contour to
the body, and acts as a protective cushion for the outer skin. Arteries and lymphatics maintain
circulation to the body.
Nerves of the Skin
Sensory nerves are receptors and send messages to the brain causing reactions to heat,
cold, touch, pressure, and pain.
Motor nerve fibers, attached to the hair follicles, are distributed to the arrector pilli
muscles which may cause goose flesh when you are frightened or cold.
The secretory nerve fibers regulate the excretion of perspiration from the sweat glands
and regulate the flow of sebum to the surface of the skin.
Glands of the Skin
There are two types of duct glands contained in the skin that pull out minerals from the
blood to create new substances. The suderiferous glands are the sweat glands and the
sebaceous glands are the oil glands.
Sweat glands excrete perspiration. This secretion is odorless when excreted, but in a
short period of time produces an offensive odor due to the bacteria on the skin’s surface
feeding on the fats of its secretion. Perspiration is controlled by the nervous
system. About 1-2 pints of liquid containing salts are excreted daily through the sweat
pores in the skin. The sweat glands consist of a coiled base or fundus and a tube-like
duct that ends at the skin surface forming the pores. Sweat glands are more numerous
on the palms, soles, forehead, and armpits. Body temperature is regulated by the sweat
glands that also aid in the elimination of waste.
Oil glands secrete sebum through little sacs whose ducts open in to the hair
follicles. These glands are found in all parts of the body with the exception of the
palms and soles. The oily substance produced by the oil glands is called
sebum. Sebum lubricates the skin and preserves the pliability of the hair. When the
duct becomes clogged with hardened sebum, a blackhead is formed.
Nourishment of the Skin
Blood and lymph circulate through the skin providing nourishment essential for growth
and repair of the skin, hair, and nails.
Functions of the Skin
The major functions of the skin are sensation, heat regulation, absorption, protection,
excretion, and secretion. The functions of the skin can easily be remembered using the
acronym: SHAPES
S - ensation - response to heat, cold, pressure, and pain
H - eat regulation - maintains body temperature of 98.6
A - bsorption - substances can enter the body through the skin and
affect it to a minor degree
P - rotection - from bacterial invasion
E - xcretion - sweat glands excrete perspiration
S - ecretion - sebum is secreted by the sebaceous glands
Terminology
Dermatology
study of the skin, its nature, functions, and
treatment
Dermatologist
a medical skin specialist
Disease
a pathological condition of the body, organ, or
mind making it incapable of carrying on normal
functions
Disorder
abnormal condition usually not contagious
Immunity
freedom from or resistance to disease
Integumentary system
one of the 10 systems of the body; pertains to the
skin, its appendages and functions
Pathology
study of disease
Etiology
study of the causes of diseases
Trichology
study of hair
Diagnosis
recognition of a disease by its symptoms
Prognosis
foretelling of the probable course of a disease
Objective symptom
visible symptom
Subjective symptom
symptom that can be felt by client, but not by
observation
Acute
rapid onset with severe symptoms of
short duration
Chronic
long duration, usually mild, but often recurring
Infectious
invasion of body tissue by bacteria that cause
disease
Contagious
communicable; by contact
Occupational
due to certain kinds of employment
Seasonal
influenced by weather
Parasitic
caused by vegetable or animal parasites
Pathogenic
produced by disease causing bacteria
Systemic
due to over or under functioning of the internal
glands
Venereal disease
acquired by sexual contact
Epidemic
emergence of a disease that affects a large number
of people simultaneously
Allergy
reaction due to extreme sensitivity to normally
harmless substances
Inflammation
skin disorder characterized by redness, pain,
edema and heat
Rhytidectomy
Blepharoplasty
Chemical peel
face lift
eyelid surgery
chemical solution applied to skin areas causing a
mild, controlled burn of the skin
Rhinoplasty
plastic surgery of the nose
Mentoplasty
chin surgery
Dermabrasion
sandblasting irregularities of the skin
Injectable fillers
tiny injections of collagen to soften wrinkles
Retin-A
prescription cream used in the treatment of acne
Diseases and Disorders
In a salon, you will come in contact with diseases and disorders of the skin and its appendages:
the hair and nails. Your license requires you to be responsible for the recognition of potentially
infections diseases. Some disorders can be treated in cooperation with and under the supervision
of a physician.
Skin Conditions /Descriptions
WARNING: NEVER TRY TO DIAGNOSE A DISEASE;
ALWAYS REFER TO A PHYSICIAN.
NOTE: COLOR CHANGES, A CRACK ON THE SKIN, A TYPE OF
THICKENING, OR ANY DISCOLORATION, RANGING
FROM SHADES OF RED TO BROWN AND PURPLE TO
ALMOST BLACK, MAY BE SIGNS OF DANGER AND
SHOULD BE EXAMINED BY A DERMATOLOGIST.
CAUTION: DO NOT TREAT OR REMOVE
HAIR FROM MOLES.
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Pigmented Lesions
Lentigo
small, yellow to brown spots
Chloasma
moth patches, liver spots = increased deposits of
pigment
Naevus
birthmark (portwine or strawberry) small-large
malformation of skin due to pigmentation or
dilated capillaries
Leucoderma
abnormal light patches due to congenital
defective pigmentations
Vitiligo
acquired condition of leucoderma-may affect skin
or hair
Albinism
congenital absence of melanin pigment
Stain
abnormal, brown, skin patches having a circular
& irregular shape
Disorders of the Sebaceous Glands
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Comedones
blackheads, a worm-like mass of
keratinized cells& hardened sebum
Milia
whiteheads, an accumulation of dead,
keratinized cells and sebaceous matter
trapped beneath the skin
Acne Simplex
chronic inflammatory disorder usually
related to hormonal changes &
overactive sebaceous glands
Acne Vulgaris
acne-pimples
Acne Rosacea
chronic inflammatory congestion of the
cheeks& nose
Seborrhea/Seborrhea
Oleosa = Oily Dandruff
overactive sebaceous glands-often the
basis of acne
Steatoma
wen or sebaceous cyst (subcutaneous
tumor)ranges in size from a pea to an
orange
Asteatosis
dry, scaly skin characterized by absolute
or partial deficiency of sebum
Furuncle
boil-a subcutaneous abscess that fills
with pus
Cysts
sac-like, elevated (usually round) area,
contains liquid or semi-liquid substancewhen a follicle ruptures deep within the
dermis & irritating oil& dead cells seep
into the surrounding tissues often cause
acne pits
Pimples
follicle filled with oil, dead cells, &
bacteria inflammation causes white
blood cells to rush to fight bacteria
creating a pus
Disorders of the Sudoriferous Glands
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Bromidrosis
osmidrosis=foul-smelling perspiration
Anhidrosis
lack of perspiration
Hyperhidrosis
excessive perspiration
Miliaria Rubra
prickly heat-eruptions of small red
vesicles accompanied by burning &
itching-caused by excessive heat
Hypertrophies
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Keratoma
callus-superficial, round, thickening of
the epidermis caused by friction (inward
growth is called a corn)
Mole
a small, brown spot-believed to be
inherited maybe flat or deeply seatedpale tan-brown or bluish black
Verruca
wart, a viral infection of the epidermisbenign
Skin Tag
bead-like fibrous tissue that stands away
from the flat surface-often a dark color
Polyp
growth that extends from the surface or
may also grow with the body
Inflammations
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Eczema
dry or moist lesions accompanied by
itching, burning, & various other
unpleasant sensations usually redblistered, & oozing
Psoriasis
rarely on the face, lesions are round, dry
patches covered with coarse, silvery
scales-if irritated, bleeding points occurmay be spread to larger area-not
contagious
Herpes Simplex/ fever blisters/cold
sores-single group of vesicles
Herpes Zoster = Shingles on a red
swollen base
Allergy Related Dermatitis
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Dermatitis
allergy to ingredients in cosmetics, etc.
Venenata
protection is the prevention-gloves, etc.
Dermatitis Medicamentosa
dermatitis that occurs after an injection
of a substance
Urticaria
hives-inflammation caused by an allergy
to specific drugs/foods
Primary Skin Lesions
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Macule
small, discolored spot or patch on the
skin's surface, neither raised nor sunkenex: freckles
small elevated pimple containing no
fluid, but may have pus
Papule
note: yellow or white fatty papules
around the eyes indicate an elevated
cholesterol level-refer to a physician
(xanthelasma).
Wheal
itchy, swollen lesion that lasts only a
few hoursex: mosquito bite
Tubercle
solid lump larger than a papule-projects
above the skin or lies with-sized from
pea to hickory nut
Tumor
external swelling-varies in size, shape &
color
Vesicle
Blister containing a watery fluid-larger
than a vesicle
Pustule
Elevation with inflamed base,
containing pus
Secondary Skin Lesions
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Scale
accumulation of epidermal flakes, dry or
greasyex: abnormal dandruff
Crust
accumulation of serum & pus-mixed
with epidermal material-ex: scab
Excoriation
abrasion produced by scratching or
scraping-ex: raw surface after injury
Fissure
crack in the skin penetrating into the
dermis
Ulcer
open lesion on skin or mucous
membrane,
accompanied by pus & loss of skin
depth
Acne Scars
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Ice Pick Scar
large, visible, open pores that look as if
the skin has been jabbed with an ice
pick-follicle always looks open-caused
by deep pimple or cyst
Acne Pit Scar
slightly sunken or depressed
appearance-caused by pimples/cysts that
have destroyed the skin & formed scar
tissue
Acne Raised Scar
lumpy mass of raised tissue on the
surface of the skin-caused where cysts
have clumped together
Contagious Disorders
Tinea
Tinea Capitis - Ringworm of Scalp
ringworm, due to fungi
Tinea Sycosis - Barber's Itch
Tinea Favosa - Honeycomb Ringworm
Tinea Unguium - Ringworm of Nails
Athlete's Foot - Ringworm of Feet
(plant or vegetable parasites) -small
reddened patch of little blisters that
spread outward and heal in the middle
with scaling
CAUTION! NEVER ATTEMPT TO DIAGNOSE BUMPS,
LESIONS, ULCERATIONS, OR DISCOLORATIONS AS
SKIN CANCER, BUT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO
RECOGNIZE THE CHARACTERISTICS OF SERIOUS
SKIN DISORDERS AND SUGGEST THAT THE CLIENT
SEE A PHYSICIAN OR DERMATOLOGIST.
Extremely Serious Disorders-Skin Cancers
Basal Cell Carcinoma
least malignant-most common skin
cancer characterized by light or pearly
nodules & visible blood vessels
Squamous Cell Carcinoma
scaly, red papules-blood vessels are not
visible more serious than basal cell
Malignant Melanoma
most serious-characterized by dark
brown, black, or discolored patches on
the skin
Tumor
abnormal growth of swollen tissue
Nail Diseases/Disorders
Onychophagy
nail biting
Onychogryposis
over curvature of the nail-claw like
Pterygium
sticky overgrowth of the cuticle
Eggshell Nail
extremely thin nail
Leuconychia
white spots under the nail plate
Paronychia
bacterial inflammation of tissue
(perionychium) around the nail
Tinea Corporis
ringworm of the hand
Tinea Pedia
ringworm of the foot
Agnail
Hangnail
Onychia
an inflammation somewhere in the nail
Onychocyanosis
blue nail (usually caused by poor
circulation)
Hematoma Nail
bruised nail (usually caused by a hammer or
slammed door)
Tinea Unguium
onychomycosis-ringworm of the nail
Onychorrexis
split or brittle nails with a series of
lengthwise ridges
Beau's Lines
ridges/corrugations/furrows
Onychatrophia
atrophy or wasting away of the nail
Onychocryptosis
ingrown nail
Onychauxis
overgrowth of the nail plate
Onychosis
any nail disease
Onychophosis
accumulation of horny layers of epidermis
under
the nail
Hair Disease/Disorders
Pityriasis
Capitis Simplex
dry dandruff
Pityriasis Capitis
Steatoids
Seborrhea
Oleosa
= Oily Dandruff
greasy dandruff
Trichoptilosis
split hair ends
Trichorrehexis Nodosa
Knotted
Tinea Favosa
honeycomb ringworm
Tinea Capitis
ringworm of the scalp
Tinea Sycosis
barber's itch
Androgenetic Alopecia
common hereditary hair loss
Alopecia Adnata
loss of hair shortly after birth
Alopecia Areata
hair loss in patches
Alopecia Follicularis
hair loss caused by inflammation of hair
follicles
Alopecia Prematura
hair loss early in life
Alopecia Senilis
hair loss from old age
Alopecia Totalis
hair loss from entire scalp
Alopecia Universalis
hair loss from entire body
Traction/Traumatic
Alopecia
patchy hair loss sometimes due to
repetitive traction on the hair by pulling or
twisting
Postpartum
Alopecia
temporary hair loss at the conclusion
of pregnancy
Telogen Effluven
hair loss during the telogen phase of the
hair
growth cycle
Canities
gray hair
Pediculosis Capitis
headlice
Monilithrix
beaded hair
Fragilitis Crinium
brittle hair
Hirsuities/Hypertrichosis
superfluous hair, excessive
Scabies
contagious disease caused by the itch mite
Impetigo/Infantigo
highly contagious bacterial infection,
usually
staphylococcal
Discoid Lupus
Erythematosus (DLE)
chronic autoimmune disorder, causes red
often scarring plaques, hair loss, &
internal effects
Keloids
forms when excess collagen forms at the
site of a
healing scar-over healing
Asteatosis
excessive dry skin
Websites: Online Dermatology Resources
http://tray.dermatology.uiowa.edu/DermImag.htm
http://www.medic.mie-u.ac.jp/derma/world/worldd1.html
http://www.skin-information.com/
http://www.skin-disease.com/
http://www.skin-cancers.net/
http://www.age-spot.com/
http://www.i-wrinkle.com/
http://www.i-wrinkle.com/
http://www.asds-net.org American Society of Dermatologic Surgery
http://www.aad.org
American Academy of Dermatology
Skin Conditions /Descriptions
WARNING: NEVER TRY TO DIAGNOSE A
DISEASE; ALWAYS REFER TO A
PHYSICIAN.
NOTE: COLOR CHANGES, A CRACK ON THE SKIN, A TYPE OF
THICKENING, OR ANY DISCOLORATION, RANGING FROM SHADES OF
RED TO BROWN AND PURPLE TO ALMOST BLACK, MAY BE SIGNS OF
DANGER AND SHOULD BE EXAMINED BY A DERMATOLOGIST.
CAUTION: DO NOT TREAT OR
REMOVE
HAIR FROM MOLES.
Pigmented Lesions
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
small, yellow to brown spots
Lentigo
Naevus
birthmark (port wine or strawberry)
small-large malformation of skin due to
pigmentation or
dilated capillaries
abnormal light patches due to congenital
defective pigmentations
Leucoderma
acquired condition of leucoderma-may
affect skin or hair
Vitiligo
Albinism
congenital absence of melanin pigment
Stain
abnormal, brown, skin patches having a
circular & irregular shape
Disorders of the Sebaceous Glands
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
blackheads, a worm-like mass of keratinized
cells & hardened sebum
Comedones
Milia
whiteheads, an accumulation of dead,
keratinized
cells and sebaceous matter trapped beneath the
skin
Acne Simplex
chronic inflammatory disorder usually related to
hormonal changes & overactive sebaceous
glands
Acne Vulgaris
acne-pimples
chronic inflammatory congestion of the cheeks
& nose
Acne Rosacea
Seborrhea/Seborrhea
overactive sebaceous glands-often the basis of
acne
Oleosa = Oily Dandruff
wen or sebaceous cyst (subcutaneous tumor)
ranges in size from a pea to an orange
Steatoma
Asteatosis
dry, scaly skin characterized by absolute or
partial
deficiency of sebum
boil-a subcutaneous abscess that fills with pus
Furuncle
sac-like, elevated (usually round) area, contains
liquid or semi-liquid substance-when a follicle
ruptures deep within the dermis & irritating oil
Cysts
Pimples
& dead cells seep into the surrounding tissues
often cause acne pits
follicle filled with oil, dead cells, & bacteria
inflammation causes white blood cells to rush to
fight bacteria creating pus
Disorders of the Sudoriferous Glands
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
Bromidrosis
osmidrosis=foul-smelling perspiration
Anhidrosis
lack of perspiration
Hyperhidrosis
excessive perspiration
Miliaria Rubra
prickly heat-eruptions of small red
vesicles accompanied by burning &
itching-caused by excessive heat
Hypertrophies
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
Keratoma
callus-superficial, round, thickening of
the epidermis caused by friction (inward
growth is called a corn)
Mole
a small, brown spot-believed to be
inherited may be flat or deeply seatedpale tan-brown or bluish black
wart, a viral infection of the epidermisbenign
Verruca
Skin Tag
bead-like fibrous tissue that stands away
from the flat surface-often a dark color
Polyp
growth that extends from the surface or
may also grow with the body
Inflammations
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
Eczema
dry or moist lesions accompanied by
itching, burning, & various other
unpleasant sensations usually redblistered, & oozing
Psoriasis
Herpes Simplex/
rarely on the face, lesions are round, dry
patches covered with coarse, silvery
scales-if irritated, bleeding points occurmay be spread to larger area-not
contagious
fever blisters/cold sores-single group of
vesicles on a red swollen base
Herpes Zoster = Shingles
Herpes Zoster
Herpes Simplex
Allergy Related Dermatitis
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
allergy to ingredients in cosmetics, etc.
protection is the prevention-gloves, etc.
Dermatitis
Venenata
dermatitis that occurs after an injection
of a substance
Dermatitis
Medicamentosa
Urticaria
hives-inflammation caused by an allergy
to
specific drugs/foods
Primary Skin Lesions
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
Macule
small, discolored spot or patch on the
skin's surface, neither raised nor
sunken-ex: freckles
Papule
small elevated pimple containing no
fluid, but may have pus note: yellow or
white fatty papules around the eyes
indicate an elevated cholesterol levelrefer to a physician (xanthelasma).
itchy, swollen lesion that lasts only a
few hours ex: mosquito bite
Wheal
Tubercle
Tumor
solid lump larger than a papule-projects
above the skin or lies with-sized from
pea to hickory nut
external swelling-varies in size, shape &
color
blister with clear fluid-lie within or just
beneath the epidermis-ex: poison ivy
Vesicle
blister containing a watery fluid-larger
than a vesicle
Bulla
Pustule
elevation with inflamed base, containing
pus
Secondary Skin Lesions
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
Scale
accumulation of epidermal flakes, dry or
greasy ex: abnormal dandruff
Crust
accumulation of serum & pus-mixed
with
epidermal material-ex: scab
Excoriation
abrasion produced by scratching or
scraping-ex: raw surface after injury
crack in the skin penetrating into the
dermis
Fissure
Ulcer
open lesion on skin or mucous
membrane,
accompanied by pus & loss of skin
depth
Acne Scars
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Ice Pick Scar
Description
large, visible, open pores that look as if
the skin has been jabbed with an ice
pick-follicle always looks open-caused
by deep pimple or cyst
Acne Pit Scar
slightly sunken or depressed
appearance-caused by pimples/cysts that
have destroyed the skin & formed scar
tissue
lumpy mass of raised tissue on the
surface of the skin-caused where cysts
have clumped together
Acne Raised Scar
Contagious Disorders
Tinea
ringworm, due to fungi
Tinea Capitis - Ringworm of Scalp
(plant or vegetable
Tinea Sycosis - Barber's Itch
parasites) -small reddened
Tinea Favosa - Honeycomb Ringworm
patch of little blisters that
Tinea Unguium - Ringworm of Nails
spread outward and heal in
Athlete's Foot - Ringworm of Feet
the middle with scaling
CAUTION! NEVER ATTEMPT TO DIAGNOSE BUMPS, LESIONS,
ULCERATIONS, OR DISCOLORATIONS AS SKIN CANCER, BUT YOU
SHOULD BE ABLE TO RECOGNIZE THE CHARACTERISTICS OF
SERIOUS SKIN DISORDERS AND SUGGEST THAT THE CLIENT SEE A
PHYSICIAN OR DERMATOLOGIST.
Extremely Serious Disorders-Skin Cancers
Basal Cell Carcinoma
least malignant-most common skin
cancer characterized by light or pearly
nodules & visible blood vessels
scaly, red papules-blood vessels are not
visible more serious than basal cell
Squamous Cell Carcinoma
most serious-characterized by dark
brown, black, or discolored patches on
the skin
Malignant Melanoma
Nail Diseases/Disorders
Onychophagy
nail biting
over curvature of the nail-claw like
Onychogryposis
Pterygium
sticky overgrowth of the cuticle
Eggshell Nail
extremely thin nail
white spots under the nail plate
Leuconychia
Paronychia
bacterial inflammation of tissue
(perionychium) around the nail
Tinea Corporis
ringworm of the hand
Tinea Pedia
ringworm of the foot
Onychocyanosis
blue nail (usually caused by poor
circulation)
Hematoma Nail
bruised nail (usually caused by a
hammer or slammed door)
onychomycosis-ringworm of the nail
Tinea Unguium
Onychorrexis
split or brittle nails with a series of
lengthwise ridges
ridges/corrugations/furrows
Beau's Lines
atrophy or wasting away of the nail
Onychatrophia
Onychocryptosis
ingrown nail
Onychauxis
overgrowth of the nail plate
Onychosis
any nail disease
Onychophosis
accumulation of horny layers of
epidermis under the nail
Hair Disease/Disorders
Pityriasis Capitis
dry dandruff
Simplex
Pityriasis Capitis
Steatoids Seborrhea Oleosa
greasy dandruff
= Oily Dandruff
Trichoptilosis
split hair ends
Trichorrehexis Nodosa
knotted
Tinea Favosa
honeycomb ringworm
Tinea Capitis
ringworm of the scalp
Tinea Sycosis
barber's itch
Androgenetic Alopecia
common hereditary hair loss
Alopecia Adnata
loss of hair shortly after birth
hair loss in patches
Alopecia Areata
hair loss caused by inflammation of hair
follicles
Alopecia Follicularis
Alopecia Prematura
hair loss early in life
Alopecia Senilis
hair loss from old age
Alopecia Totalis
hair loss from entire scalp
Alopecia Universalis
hair loss from entire body
Traction/Traumatic
Alopecia
patchy hair loss sometimes due to
repetitive traction on the hair by
pulling or twisting
Postpartum
temporary hair loss at the conclusion
Alopecia
of pregnancy
Telogen Effluven
hair loss during the telogen phase of the
hair growth cycle
Canities
gray hair
Pediculosis Capitis
Headlice
Monilithrix
beaded hair
Fragilitis Crinium
brittle hair
Hirsuities/Hypertrichosis
superfluous hair, excessive
Scabies
contagious disease caused by the itch
mite
highly contagious bacterial infection,
usually
Impetigo/Infantigo
staphylococcal
Discoid Lupus
chronic autoimmune disorder, causes
red
Erythematosus (DLE)
often scarring plaques, hair loss, &
internal effects
Keloids
forms when excess collagen forms at the
site of a healing scar-overhealing
Asteatosis
excessive dry skin
Appendix A
Georgia State Board of Cosmetology
Glossary of Legal Definitions
Master Cosmetologist
Any person who performs any one or more of the following services for compensation:
Cuts or dresses the hair
Gives facial or scalp massage or facial and scalp treatment with oils or creams and other preparations made for
this purpose, either by hand or mechanical appliance
Singes and shampoos the hair, dies the hair, or does permanent waving of the hair
Braids the hair by hair weaving, interlocking, twisting, plaiting, wrapping by hand, chemical or mechanical
devices, or using any natural or synthetic fiber for extensions to the hair
Performs nail care, pedicure, or manicuring services as defined in Nail Technician
Performs the services of an esthetician as defined in Esthetician or Esthetics Operator
Such person shall be considered as practicing the occupation of a cosmetologist within the meaning of this Code
section; provided, however, that such term shall not mean a person who only braids the hair by hairweaving;
interlocking; twisting; plaiting; wrapping by hand, chemical, or mechanical devices; or using any natural or
synthetic fiber for extensions to the hair, and no such person shall be subject to the provisions of this chapter. Such
term shall not apply to a person whose activities are limited to the application of cosmetics which are marketed to
individuals and are readily commercially available to consumers.
Hair Designer
Any person who performs any one or more of the following services for compensation:
Cuts or dresses the hair
Singes and shampoos the hair or dyes the hair.
Esthetician
A person who, for compensation, engages in any one or a combination of the following practices, esthetics, or
cosmetic skin care:
Massaging the face or neck of a person
Trimming eyebrows
Dyeing eyelashes or eyebrows
Waxing, stimulating, cleansing, or beautifying the face, neck, arms, or legs of a person by any method with the
aid of the hands or any mechanical or electrical apparatus or by the use of a cosmetic preparation.
Such practices of esthetics shall not include the diagnosis, treatment, or therapy of any dermatological condition.
Such term shall not apply to a person whose activities are limited to the application of cosmetics which are marketed
to individuals and are readily commercially available to consumers.
Nail Technician
A person who, for compensation, trims, files, shapes, decorates, applies sculptured or otherwise artificial nails, or
in any way cares for the nails of the hands and feet of another person.
Appendix B
130-5-.01 Shampoo Equipment.
Shampoo bowls must be thoroughly cleansed and sanitized.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Pets” adopted. F. and eff.
June 30, 1965. Repealed: New Rule entitled “Shampoo Equipment” adopted. F. Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar.
17, 1986. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. May 11, 2006; eff. May 31, 2006.
130-5-.02 Linens.
Towels/linens, after being used once, must be placed in a closed container until properly
laundered. Clean towels must be kept in a closed cabinet, container, or closet except
linens which are designated for use on current patrons.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Linens” adopted. F. Feb. 25,
1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. Sept. 12, 2006; eff. Oct. 2, 2006.
130-5-.03 Sterilization.
The use of any article that is not properly cleansed and disinfected on any patron is
prohibited. Hands must be properly cleansed and sanitized prior to servicing each client.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Sterilization” adopted. F.
Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. July 20, 1993; eff. Aug.
9, 1993. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. Mar. 29, 2007, eff; Apr. 18, 2007. Repealed: New
Rule of same title adopted. F. Nov. 1, 2007; eff. Nov. 21, 2007.
130-5-.04 Waste and Garbage.
All waste material must be removed daily. Garbage shall be stored in a covered, washable
container and shall not be left in the establishment overnight. Each facility must be free
from stale food and soiled dishes.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Waste and Garbage” adopted.
F. Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. July 20, 1993; eff.
Aug. 9, 1993. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. Mar. 29, 2007, eff; Apr. 18, 2007. Repealed:
New Rule of same title adopted. F. Nov. 1, 2007; eff. Nov. 21, 2007.
130-5-.05 Cleaning and Recommended Disinfection of Implements.
(1) All multi-use tools, implements, and equipment used for cosmetology services that
come in contact with a client must be cleaned of all visible debris after each use and
disinfected after each use by complete saturation or immersion for at least 10 minutes in
an EPA-registered, hospital-grade dis infectant according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Autoclave is an acceptable method of sterilization. Each salon or shop shall provide
correct wet disinfection and dry storage standards at all times.
(a) Multi-use items constructed of nonporous materials such as metal, glass, or plastic for
use on more than one client include, but are not limited to the following items: nail
clippers, cuticle nippers, cuticle pushers, scissors, shears, reusable nail forms, manicure
and pedicure bowls, foot files, glass, metal and fiberglass files, metal drill bits, tweezers,
comedone extractors, brushes, combs, clips, reusable pencil sharpeners, reusable gloves,
and any other metal tools/non-porous implements not listed above.
(b) Single use items shall be discarded after being used one time. These items include:
buffers, emery boards, nail files, sleeves and sanders for electric files,
orangewood/birchwood sticks, wooden applicator sticks or spatulas, porous foot files,
pedicure slippers and toe separators, disposable gloves, paraffin liners, cotton balls,
cotton strips or swabs, neck strips and muslin strips or any items that cannot be
disinfected.
(2) Wet disinfection standards for tools, implements, or equipment:
(a) After cleaning, all tools, implements and equipment must be disinfected by complete
saturation or immersion (enough solution to cover all surfaces of the item) for 10 minutes
in an EPA-registered, hospital-grade disinfectant that is bactericidal, viruscidal,
fungicidal, and pseudomonacidal. The disinfecting solution must be changed daily
and/or prepared according to manufacturer’s directions.
(b) All tools, implements, or equipment that come in contact with blood or body fluids
must be disinfected by complete immersion for a minimum of 10 minutes in an EPAregistered
disinfectant that is effective against HIV-1 and Human Hepatitis B Virus, or
tuberculocidal that is prepared and used according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Autoclave is an acceptable method of sterilization.
(3) Dry storage standards for tools, implements, or equipment:
(a) All disinfected tools and implements shall be stored in a sanitary manner in a covered
container. The container must be labeled to show that it contains disinfected tools and
implements.
(b) Soiled and dirty tools and implements must be stored in a separate and properly
labeled covered container. Soiled and dirty tools and implements shall not be used aga in
until properly cleaned and disinfected according to the procedures stated in this rule.
(4) Hand washing is required before and between providing services to each client. An
anti-bacterial soap is recommended to sanitize the hands and the exposed portions of
arms before providing services and after smoking, drinking, eating, and using restrooms.
(5) Pedicure equipment cleaning and disinfection procedures to be used for all pedicure
equipment that holds water including sinks, bowls, basins, pipe-less, and whirlpool spas
are as follows:
(a) After each client, all pedicure units must be cleaned with a chelating soap or detergent
with water to remove all visible debris, then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospitalgrade
bactericidal, fungicidal, virucida l, and pseudomonacidal disinfectant used
according to manufacturer’s instructions for at least ten (10) minutes. If the pedicure unit
has a foot plate, it should be removed and the area beneath it cleaned, rinsed, and wiped
dry.
(b) At the end of each day of use, the following procedures shall be used:
1. All filter screens in whirlpool pedicure spas or basins for all types of foot spas must be
sanitized. All visible debris in the screen and the inlet must be removed and cleaned with
a chelating soap or detergent and water. For all pedicure units, the jet components and/or
foot plate must be removed and any debris removed and cleaned. The screen, jet, and/or
foot plate must be completely immersed in an EPA-registered, hospital-grade
bactericidal, fungicidal, virucidal, and pseudomonacidal disinfectant that is used
according to manufacturer’s instructions. The screen, jet, and/or foot plate should be
replaced after disinfection is completed and the system flushed with warm water and lowsudsing
soap for 5 minutes, rinsed, and drained.
2. After the above procedures are completed, the basin should be filled with clean water
and the correct amount of EPA-registered disinfectant. The solution must be circulated
through foot spa system for 10 minutes and the unit then turned off. The solution should
remain in the basin for at least 6 to 10 hours. Before using the equipment again, the basin
system must be drained and flushed with clean water.
(c) Once each week, additional procedures should be performed. After completing the
required cleaning procedures for the end of the day, the basin should be filled with water
that contains one teaspoon of 5.25% bleach for each gallon of water.
The solution should be circulated through the spa system for 5 to 10 minutes and then the
solution should sit overnight in the basin, or for at least 6 to 10 hours. Before being used
again, the system should be drained and flushed.
(d) A record or log book containing the dates and times of all pedicure equipment
cleaning and disinfection procedures must be documented and kept in the pedicure area
by the salon or shop and made available for review upon request by a consumer and/or an
inspector from the Board.
(6) Signs shall be posted in clear view in the reception area of the salon/shop as follows:
(a) Cosmetology laws, rules, and regulations are available upon request.
(b) All cosmetology services shall only be performed on intact, healthy scalp, skin, and
nails.
(c) Customers should not shave their legs the same day as receiving pedicure services to
reduce the risk of infection.
(7) Signs shall be posted in clear view in the pedicure services area of the salon/shop as
follows:
(a) All cosmetology services shall only be performed on intact, healthy scalp, skin, and
nails.
(b) Customers should not shave their legs the same day as receiving pedicure services to
reduce the risk of infection.
(c) Any razor-like implement, such as a credo blade, shall not be used to reduce the
chance of injury or infection.
(d) Pumice stones shall not be reused from one customer to another to prevent the spread
of bacteria.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Cleaning of Implements”
adopted. F. Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. July 20,
1993; eff. Aug. 9, 1993. Repealed: New Rule entitled “Cleaning and Recommended Disinfection of
Implements” adopted. F. May 11, 2006; eff. May 31, 2006.
130-5-.06 Storage of Preparations.
Creams, lotions and other cosmetics for use on patrons must be kept in sanitary, closed
containers. Authority O.C.G.A. Sec. 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Storage of Preparations”
adopted. F. Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986.
130-5-.07 Pets.
Pets shall not be allowed in cosmetology facilities, with the exception of animals for
handicapped patrons. Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Pets”
adopted. F. Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. Mar. 29,
2007; eff. Apr. 18, 2007.
130-5-.08 Protective Clothing and Footwear for Patrons.
Patrons in all Georgia Schools/salons/shops shall wear appropriate clothing and footwear
to prevent exposure to potential infectious materials.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Recommended Disinfection –
Approved by the Georgia State Board of Health” adopted. F. Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986.
Repealed:
New Rule entitled “Recommended Disinfection Approved by the Georgia Department of Human
Resources, Environmental Health Section” adopted. F. Oct. 20, 1995; eff. Nov. 9, 1995. Repealed: F.
May
11, 2006; eff. May 31, 2006. Amended: New Rule entitled “Protective Clothing and Footwear for Patrons”
adopted. F. Nov. 1, 2007; eff. Nov. 21, 2007.
130-5-.09 Protective Clothing.
Cosmetologists, hair designers, nail technicians, and estheticians in Georgia are required
to abide by all state laws for cosmetology, hair design, nail care, and esthetics. The
professions of cosmetology, hair design, nail technology and esthetics are subject to the
guidelines and rules promulgated by Georgia State Board of Cosmetology.
Cosmetologists, hair designers, nail technicians, estheticians are also subject to the
provisions of O.C.G.A. § 43-1-19. Practitioners of the cosmetology profession in Georgia
shall wear appropriate protective clothing for clinical services to prevent occupational
exposure to potential infectious materials. Appropriate clothing and footwear may
include, but not be limited to, clinical jackets, gloves and/or similar outer garments for
the protection from infectious or harmful materials.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6, 43-10-9. History. Original Rule entitled “Protective Clothing”
adopted. F. May 10, 1993; eff. May 30, 1993. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. May 11,
2006;
eff. May 31, 2006. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. Mar. 29, 2007; eff. Apr. 18, 2007.
Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. Nov. 1, 2007; eff. Nov. 21, 2007.
Georgia Department of Technical
and Adult Education
Skin, Diseases,
Disorders
Copyright © October 2002 by Georgia Department of Technical and Adult Education.
All rights reserved. No part of this manual may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by
any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information
storage and retrieval system, without written permission from Georgia Department of
Technical and Adult Education.
Published December 2002
(C121002)
Table of Contents
Skin, Diseases, Disorders………………….....................................................1
Introduction........................................................................................... 1
Objectives.............................................................................................. 2
Anatomy and Histology of the Skin..………………...................................... 3
Nerves of the Skin .................................................................................. 5
Glands of the Skin .................................................................................. 5
Nourishment of the Skin......................................................................... 6
Functions of the Skin .............................................................................. 6
Terminology ........................................................................................... 7
Diseases and Disorders…………………........................................................10
Skin Conditions /Descriptions.............................................................. 11
Skin, Diseases, Disorders
Introduction
The flexible, waterproof, tough protective covering known as the skin is the largest organ in the
body both by weight and surface area. Skin accounts for approximately 16% of the body’s
weight.
Healthy skin has a fine texture that is slightly moist, soft, and flexible.
Varying in thickness, the skin is thinnest on the eyelids and thickest on the palms and soles. A
callous can be caused by continuous friction on any part of the skin.
The skin has appendages that include the hair, sweat and oil glands, and the nails. Composed of
the substance known as keratin, this protein gives the skin its protective ability. The skin is
slightly acidic in pH, which enables good immunity responses to intruding organisms. Normally
the skin separates the internal environment from the external. However skin diseases and
infections can invade that barrier. For this reason, a thorough understanding of the histology of
the skin and its diseases and disorders is needed for a better position to give clients professional
advice.
Objectives
Upon completion of this course, trainees will be able to:
 Explain the structure and the composition of the skin.
 Identify the functions of the skin.
 Describe terms relating to skin disorders.
 Recognize which skin diseases/disorders may be dealt with in the salon and which should be
referred to a physician.
 Identify online dermatology resources.
Anatomy and Histology of
the Skin
The two major divisions of the skin are the dermis and the epidermis.
The outermost layer of the skin is the epidermis that is composed of sheets of dead cells that
serve as the major waterproof barrier to the environment. The epidermis is the visible layer of
skin. This layer contains numerous nerve endings, but no blood vessels. The human epidermis is
renewed every 15-30 days.
The epidermis consists of many layers. The stratum corneum is the outer layer that is often
called the horny layer. Cells are continually being shed and replaced. This layer of skin for the
most part is dead - it is composed of cells that are almost pure protein.
The stratum lucidum consists of translucent cells through which light can penetrate.
The stratum granulosum, known as the granular layer, consists of cells that resemble
granules. These cells are transforming into a harder form of protein.
The stratum mucosum is also known as the basal cell layer. Basal cells are continuously being
reproduced. It is the deepest layer of the epidermis. This layer also contains melanocytes that
produce the coloring matter known as melanin and determines skin color. Melanocytes also
react to ultraviolet rays to darken the skin for added protection.
The middle layer, the dermis, provides a tough, flexible foundation for the epidermis. In the
dermis, body temperature is regulated by sweat glands and blood vessels. It also contains arector
pilli muscles, papillae, and hair follicles. Nerve endings send sensations of pain, itching, touch,
and temperature to the brain. The skin is moisturized by oil glands that produce sebum.
The dermis consists of two layers. The papillary layer connects the dermis to the epidermis.
Tactile corpuscles are nerve fiber endings that contain looped capillaries. Tactile corpuscles are
responsible for the sense of touch. The papillary layer also contains some of the melanin.
The reticular layer is the deepest layer of the dermis. It contains fat cells, blood vessels, lymph
vessels, oil glands, sweat glands, hair follicles, and arrector pilli muscles. The reticular layer
supplies the skin with oxygen and nutrients.
Subcutaneous tissue is the fatty layer found below the dermis. It is also called the adipose or the
subcutis tissue. It varies in thickness according to age, sex, and general health of the
individual. The subcutaneous tissue contains fats for energy, gives smoothness and contour to
the body, and acts as a protective cushion for the outer skin. Arteries and lymphatics maintain
circulation to the body.
Nerves of the Skin
Sensory nerves are receptors and send messages to the brain causing reactions to heat,
cold, touch, pressure, and pain.
Motor nerve fibers, attached to the hair follicles, are distributed to the arrector pilli
muscles which may cause goose flesh when you are frightened or cold.
The secretory nerve fibers regulate the excretion of perspiration from the sweat glands
and regulate the flow of sebum to the surface of the skin.
Glands of the Skin
There are two types of duct glands contained in the skin that pull out minerals from the
blood to create new substances. The suderiferous glands are the sweat glands and the
sebaceous glands are the oil glands.
Sweat glands excrete perspiration. This secretion is odorless when excreted, but in a
short period of time produces an offensive odor due to the bacteria on the skin’s surface
feeding on the fats of its secretion. Perspiration is controlled by the nervous
system. About 1-2 pints of liquid containing salts are excreted daily through the sweat
pores in the skin. The sweat glands consist of a coiled base or fundus and a tube-like
duct that ends at the skin surface forming the pores. Sweat glands are more numerous
on the palms, soles, forehead, and armpits. Body temperature is regulated by the sweat
glands that also aid in the elimination of waste.
Oil glands secrete sebum through little sacs whose ducts open in to the hair
follicles. These glands are found in all parts of the body with the exception of the
palms and soles. The oily substance produced by the oil glands is called
sebum. Sebum lubricates the skin and preserves the pliability of the hair. When the
duct becomes clogged with hardened sebum, a blackhead is formed.
Nourishment of the Skin
Blood and lymph circulate through the skin providing nourishment essential for growth
and repair of the skin, hair, and nails.
Functions of the Skin
The major functions of the skin are sensation, heat regulation, absorption, protection,
excretion, and secretion. The functions of the skin can easily be remembered using the
acronym: SHAPES
S - ensation - response to heat, cold, pressure, and pain
H - eat regulation - maintains body temperature of 98.6
A - bsorption - substances can enter the body through the skin and
affect it to a minor degree
P - rotection - from bacterial invasion
E - xcretion - sweat glands excrete perspiration
S - ecretion - sebum is secreted by the sebaceous glands
Terminology
Dermatology
study of the skin, its nature, functions, and
treatment
Dermatologist
a medical skin specialist
Disease
a pathological condition of the body, organ, or
mind making it incapable of carrying on normal
functions
Disorder
abnormal condition usually not contagious
Immunity
freedom from or resistance to disease
Integumentary system
one of the 10 systems of the body; pertains to the
skin, its appendages and functions
Pathology
study of disease
Etiology
study of the causes of diseases
Trichology
study of hair
Diagnosis
recognition of a disease by its symptoms
Prognosis
foretelling of the probable course of a disease
Objective symptom
visible symptom
Subjective symptom
symptom that can be felt by client, but not by
observation
Acute
rapid onset with severe symptoms of
short duration
Chronic
long duration, usually mild, but often recurring
Infectious
invasion of body tissue by bacteria that cause
disease
Contagious
communicable; by contact
Occupational
due to certain kinds of employment
Seasonal
influenced by weather
Parasitic
caused by vegetable or animal parasites
Pathogenic
produced by disease causing bacteria
Systemic
due to over or under functioning of the internal
glands
Venereal disease
acquired by sexual contact
Epidemic
emergence of a disease that affects a large number
of people simultaneously
Allergy
reaction due to extreme sensitivity to normally
harmless substances
Inflammation
skin disorder characterized by redness, pain,
edema and heat
Rhytidectomy
Blepharoplasty
Chemical peel
face lift
eyelid surgery
chemical solution applied to skin areas causing a
mild, controlled burn of the skin
Rhinoplasty
plastic surgery of the nose
Mentoplasty
chin surgery
Dermabrasion
sandblasting irregularities of the skin
Injectable fillers
tiny injections of collagen to soften wrinkles
Retin-A
prescription cream used in the treatment of acne
Diseases and Disorders
In a salon, you will come in contact with diseases and disorders of the skin and its appendages:
the hair and nails. Your license requires you to be responsible for the recognition of potentially
infections diseases. Some disorders can be treated in cooperation with and under the supervision
of a physician.
Skin Conditions /Descriptions
WARNING: NEVER TRY TO DIAGNOSE A DISEASE;
ALWAYS REFER TO A PHYSICIAN.
NOTE: COLOR CHANGES, A CRACK ON THE SKIN, A TYPE OF
THICKENING, OR ANY DISCOLORATION, RANGING
FROM SHADES OF RED TO BROWN AND PURPLE TO
ALMOST BLACK, MAY BE SIGNS OF DANGER AND
SHOULD BE EXAMINED BY A DERMATOLOGIST.
CAUTION: DO NOT TREAT OR REMOVE
HAIR FROM MOLES.
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Pigmented Lesions
Lentigo
small, yellow to brown spots
Chloasma
moth patches, liver spots = increased deposits of
pigment
Naevus
birthmark (portwine or strawberry) small-large
malformation of skin due to pigmentation or
dilated capillaries
Leucoderma
abnormal light patches due to congenital
defective pigmentations
Vitiligo
acquired condition of leucoderma-may affect skin
or hair
Albinism
congenital absence of melanin pigment
Stain
abnormal, brown, skin patches having a circular
& irregular shape
Disorders of the Sebaceous Glands
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Comedones
blackheads, a worm-like mass of
keratinized cells& hardened sebum
Milia
whiteheads, an accumulation of dead,
keratinized cells and sebaceous matter
trapped beneath the skin
Acne Simplex
chronic inflammatory disorder usually
related to hormonal changes &
overactive sebaceous glands
Acne Vulgaris
acne-pimples
Acne Rosacea
chronic inflammatory congestion of the
cheeks& nose
Seborrhea/Seborrhea
Oleosa = Oily Dandruff
overactive sebaceous glands-often the
basis of acne
Steatoma
wen or sebaceous cyst (subcutaneous
tumor)ranges in size from a pea to an
orange
Asteatosis
dry, scaly skin characterized by absolute
or partial deficiency of sebum
Furuncle
boil-a subcutaneous abscess that fills
with pus
Cysts
sac-like, elevated (usually round) area,
contains liquid or semi-liquid substancewhen a follicle ruptures deep within the
dermis & irritating oil& dead cells seep
into the surrounding tissues often cause
acne pits
Pimples
follicle filled with oil, dead cells, &
bacteria inflammation causes white
blood cells to rush to fight bacteria
creating a pus
Disorders of the Sudoriferous Glands
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Bromidrosis
osmidrosis=foul-smelling perspiration
Anhidrosis
lack of perspiration
Hyperhidrosis
excessive perspiration
Miliaria Rubra
prickly heat-eruptions of small red
vesicles accompanied by burning &
itching-caused by excessive heat
Hypertrophies
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Keratoma
callus-superficial, round, thickening of
the epidermis caused by friction (inward
growth is called a corn)
Mole
a small, brown spot-believed to be
inherited maybe flat or deeply seatedpale tan-brown or bluish black
Verruca
wart, a viral infection of the epidermisbenign
Skin Tag
bead-like fibrous tissue that stands away
from the flat surface-often a dark color
Polyp
growth that extends from the surface or
may also grow with the body
Inflammations
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Eczema
dry or moist lesions accompanied by
itching, burning, & various other
unpleasant sensations usually redblistered, & oozing
Psoriasis
rarely on the face, lesions are round, dry
patches covered with coarse, silvery
scales-if irritated, bleeding points occurmay be spread to larger area-not
contagious
Herpes Simplex/ fever blisters/cold
sores-single group of vesicles
Herpes Zoster = Shingles on a red
swollen base
Allergy Related Dermatitis
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Dermatitis
allergy to ingredients in cosmetics, etc.
Venenata
protection is the prevention-gloves, etc.
Dermatitis Medicamentosa
dermatitis that occurs after an injection
of a substance
Urticaria
hives-inflammation caused by an allergy
to specific drugs/foods
Primary Skin Lesions
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Macule
small, discolored spot or patch on the
skin's surface, neither raised nor sunkenex: freckles
small elevated pimple containing no
fluid, but may have pus
Papule
note: yellow or white fatty papules
around the eyes indicate an elevated
cholesterol level-refer to a physician
(xanthelasma).
Wheal
itchy, swollen lesion that lasts only a
few hoursex: mosquito bite
Tubercle
solid lump larger than a papule-projects
above the skin or lies with-sized from
pea to hickory nut
Tumor
external swelling-varies in size, shape &
color
Vesicle
Blister containing a watery fluid-larger
than a vesicle
Pustule
Elevation with inflamed base,
containing pus
Secondary Skin Lesions
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Scale
accumulation of epidermal flakes, dry or
greasyex: abnormal dandruff
Crust
accumulation of serum & pus-mixed
with epidermal material-ex: scab
Excoriation
abrasion produced by scratching or
scraping-ex: raw surface after injury
Fissure
crack in the skin penetrating into the
dermis
Ulcer
open lesion on skin or mucous
membrane,
accompanied by pus & loss of skin
depth
Acne Scars
Condition/Disease/Disorder
Description
Ice Pick Scar
large, visible, open pores that look as if
the skin has been jabbed with an ice
pick-follicle always looks open-caused
by deep pimple or cyst
Acne Pit Scar
slightly sunken or depressed
appearance-caused by pimples/cysts that
have destroyed the skin & formed scar
tissue
Acne Raised Scar
lumpy mass of raised tissue on the
surface of the skin-caused where cysts
have clumped together
Contagious Disorders
Tinea
Tinea Capitis - Ringworm of Scalp
ringworm, due to fungi
Tinea Sycosis - Barber's Itch
Tinea Favosa - Honeycomb Ringworm
Tinea Unguium - Ringworm of Nails
Athlete's Foot - Ringworm of Feet
(plant or vegetable parasites) -small
reddened patch of little blisters that
spread outward and heal in the middle
with scaling
CAUTION! NEVER ATTEMPT TO DIAGNOSE BUMPS,
LESIONS, ULCERATIONS, OR DISCOLORATIONS AS
SKIN CANCER, BUT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO
RECOGNIZE THE CHARACTERISTICS OF SERIOUS
SKIN DISORDERS AND SUGGEST THAT THE CLIENT
SEE A PHYSICIAN OR DERMATOLOGIST.
Extremely Serious Disorders-Skin Cancers
Basal Cell Carcinoma
least malignant-most common skin
cancer characterized by light or pearly
nodules & visible blood vessels
Squamous Cell Carcinoma
scaly, red papules-blood vessels are not
visible more serious than basal cell
Malignant Melanoma
most serious-characterized by dark
brown, black, or discolored patches on
the skin
Tumor
abnormal growth of swollen tissue
Nail Diseases/Disorders
Onychophagy
nail biting
Onychogryposis
over curvature of the nail-claw like
Pterygium
sticky overgrowth of the cuticle
Eggshell Nail
extremely thin nail
Leuconychia
white spots under the nail plate
Paronychia
bacterial inflammation of tissue
(perionychium) around the nail
Tinea Corporis
ringworm of the hand
Tinea Pedia
ringworm of the foot
Agnail
Hangnail
Onychia
an inflammation somewhere in the nail
Onychocyanosis
blue nail (usually caused by poor
circulation)
Hematoma Nail
bruised nail (usually caused by a hammer or
slammed door)
Tinea Unguium
onychomycosis-ringworm of the nail
Onychorrexis
split or brittle nails with a series of
lengthwise ridges
Beau's Lines
ridges/corrugations/furrows
Onychatrophia
atrophy or wasting away of the nail
Onychocryptosis
ingrown nail
Onychauxis
overgrowth of the nail plate
Onychosis
any nail disease
Onychophosis
accumulation of horny layers of epidermis
under
the nail
Hair Disease/Disorders
Pityriasis
Capitis Simplex
dry dandruff
Pityriasis Capitis
Steatoids
Seborrhea
Oleosa
= Oily Dandruff
greasy dandruff
Trichoptilosis
split hair ends
Trichorrehexis Nodosa
Knotted
Tinea Favosa
honeycomb ringworm
Tinea Capitis
ringworm of the scalp
Tinea Sycosis
barber's itch
Androgenetic Alopecia
common hereditary hair loss
Alopecia Adnata
loss of hair shortly after birth
Alopecia Areata
hair loss in patches
Alopecia Follicularis
hair loss caused by inflammation of hair
follicles
Alopecia Prematura
hair loss early in life
Alopecia Senilis
hair loss from old age
Alopecia Totalis
hair loss from entire scalp
Alopecia Universalis
hair loss from entire body
Traction/Traumatic
Alopecia
patchy hair loss sometimes due to
repetitive traction on the hair by pulling or
twisting
Postpartum
Alopecia
temporary hair loss at the conclusion
of pregnancy
Telogen Effluven
hair loss during the telogen phase of the
hair
growth cycle
Canities
gray hair
Pediculosis Capitis
headlice
Monilithrix
beaded hair
Fragilitis Crinium
brittle hair
Hirsuities/Hypertrichosis
superfluous hair, excessive
Scabies
contagious disease caused by the itch mite
Impetigo/Infantigo
highly contagious bacterial infection,
usually
staphylococcal
Discoid Lupus
Erythematosus (DLE)
chronic autoimmune disorder, causes red
often scarring plaques, hair loss, &
internal effects
Keloids
forms when excess collagen forms at the
site of a
healing scar-over healing
Asteatosis
excessive dry skin
Websites: Online Dermatology Resources
http://tray.dermatology.uiowa.edu/DermImag.htm
http://www.medic.mie-u.ac.jp/derma/world/worldd1.html
http://www.skin-information.com/
http://www.skin-disease.com/
http://www.skin-cancers.net/
http://www.age-spot.com/
http://www.i-wrinkle.com/
http://www.i-wrinkle.com/
http://www.asds-net.org American Society of Dermatologic Surgery
http://www.aad.org
American Academy of Dermatology
Skin Conditions /Descriptions
WARNING: NEVER TRY TO DIAGNOSE A
DISEASE; ALWAYS REFER TO A
PHYSICIAN.
NOTE: COLOR CHANGES, A CRACK ON THE SKIN, A TYPE OF
THICKENING, OR ANY DISCOLORATION, RANGING FROM SHADES OF
RED TO BROWN AND PURPLE TO ALMOST BLACK, MAY BE SIGNS OF
DANGER AND SHOULD BE EXAMINED BY A DERMATOLOGIST.
CAUTION: DO NOT TREAT OR
REMOVE
HAIR FROM MOLES.
Pigmented Lesions
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
small, yellow to brown spots
Lentigo
Naevus
birthmark (port wine or strawberry)
small-large malformation of skin due to
pigmentation or
dilated capillaries
abnormal light patches due to congenital
defective pigmentations
Leucoderma
acquired condition of leucoderma-may
affect skin or hair
Vitiligo
Albinism
congenital absence of melanin pigment
Stain
abnormal, brown, skin patches having a
circular & irregular shape
Disorders of the Sebaceous Glands
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
blackheads, a worm-like mass of keratinized
cells & hardened sebum
Comedones
Milia
whiteheads, an accumulation of dead,
keratinized
cells and sebaceous matter trapped beneath the
skin
Acne Simplex
chronic inflammatory disorder usually related to
hormonal changes & overactive sebaceous
glands
Acne Vulgaris
acne-pimples
chronic inflammatory congestion of the cheeks
& nose
Acne Rosacea
Seborrhea/Seborrhea
Oleosa = Oily Dandruff
overactive sebaceous glands-often the basis of
acne
wen or sebaceous cyst (subcutaneous tumor)
ranges in size from a pea to an orange
Steatoma
Asteatosis
dry, scaly skin characterized by absolute or
partial
deficiency of sebum
boil-a subcutaneous abscess that fills with pus
Furuncle
sac-like, elevated (usually round) area, contains
liquid or semi-liquid substance-when a follicle
ruptures deep within the dermis & irritating oil
Cysts
Pimples
& dead cells seep into the surrounding tissues
often cause acne pits
follicle filled with oil, dead cells, & bacteria
inflammation causes white blood cells to rush to
fight bacteria creating pus
Disorders of the Sudoriferous Glands
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
Bromidrosis
osmidrosis=foul-smelling perspiration
Anhidrosis
lack of perspiration
Hyperhidrosis
excessive perspiration
Miliaria Rubra
prickly heat-eruptions of small red
vesicles accompanied by burning &
itching-caused by excessive heat
Hypertrophies
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
Keratoma
callus-superficial, round, thickening of
the epidermis caused by friction (inward
growth is called a corn)
Mole
a small, brown spot-believed to be
inherited may be flat or deeply seatedpale tan-brown or bluish black
wart, a viral infection of the epidermisbenign
Verruca
Skin Tag
bead-like fibrous tissue that stands away
from the flat surface-often a dark color
Polyp
growth that extends from the surface or
may also grow with the body
Inflammations
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
Eczema
dry or moist lesions accompanied by
itching, burning, & various other
unpleasant sensations usually redblistered, & oozing
Psoriasis
rarely on the face, lesions are round, dry
patches covered with coarse, silvery
scales-if irritated, bleeding points occurmay be spread to larger area-not
contagious
Herpes Simplex/
fever blisters/cold sores-single group of
vesicles on a red swollen base
Herpes Zoster = Shingles
Herpes Zoster
Herpes Simplex
Allergy Related Dermatitis
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
allergy to ingredients in cosmetics, etc.
protection is the prevention-gloves, etc.
Dermatitis
Venenata
dermatitis that occurs after an injection
of a substance
Dermatitis
Medicamentosa
Urticaria
hives-inflammation caused by an allergy
to
specific drugs/foods
Primary Skin Lesions
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
Macule
small, discolored spot or patch on the
skin's surface, neither raised nor
sunken-ex: freckles
Papule
small elevated pimple containing no
fluid, but may have pus note: yellow or
white fatty papules around the eyes
indicate an elevated cholesterol levelrefer to a physician (xanthelasma).
itchy, swollen lesion that lasts only a
few hours ex: mosquito bite
Wheal
Tubercle
solid lump larger than a papule-projects
above the skin or lies with-sized from
pea to hickory nut
Tumor
external swelling-varies in size, shape &
color
blister with clear fluid-lie within or just
beneath the epidermis-ex: poison ivy
Vesicle
blister containing a watery fluid-larger
than a vesicle
Bulla
Pustule
Secondary Skin Lesions
elevation with inflamed base, containing
pus
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Description
Scale
accumulation of epidermal flakes, dry or
greasy ex: abnormal dandruff
Crust
accumulation of serum & pus-mixed
with
epidermal material-ex: scab
Excoriation
abrasion produced by scratching or
scraping-ex: raw surface after injury
crack in the skin penetrating into the
dermis
Fissure
Ulcer
open lesion on skin or mucous
membrane,
accompanied by pus & loss of skin
depth
Acne Scars
Condition/ Disease/Disorder
Ice Pick Scar
Acne Pit Scar
Description
large, visible, open pores that look as if
the skin has been jabbed with an ice
pick-follicle always looks open-caused
by deep pimple or cyst
slightly sunken or depressed
appearance-caused by pimples/cysts that
have destroyed the skin & formed scar
tissue
lumpy mass of raised tissue on the
surface of the skin-caused where cysts
have clumped together
Acne Raised Scar
Contagious Disorders
Tinea
ringworm, due to fungi
Tinea Capitis - Ringworm of Scalp
(plant or vegetable
Tinea Sycosis - Barber's Itch
parasites) -small reddened
Tinea Favosa - Honeycomb Ringworm
patch of little blisters that
Tinea Unguium - Ringworm of Nails
spread outward and heal in
Athlete's Foot - Ringworm of Feet
the middle with scaling
CAUTION! NEVER ATTEMPT TO DIAGNOSE BUMPS, LESIONS,
ULCERATIONS, OR DISCOLORATIONS AS SKIN CANCER, BUT YOU
SHOULD BE ABLE TO RECOGNIZE THE CHARACTERISTICS OF
SERIOUS SKIN DISORDERS AND SUGGEST THAT THE CLIENT SEE A
PHYSICIAN OR DERMATOLOGIST.
Extremely Serious Disorders-Skin Cancers
Basal Cell Carcinoma
least malignant-most common skin
cancer characterized by light or pearly
nodules & visible blood vessels
scaly, red papules-blood vessels are not
visible more serious than basal cell
Squamous Cell Carcinoma
most serious-characterized by dark
brown, black, or discolored patches on
the skin
Malignant Melanoma
Nail Diseases/Disorders
Onychophagy
nail biting
over curvature of the nail-claw like
Onychogryposis
Pterygium
sticky overgrowth of the cuticle
Eggshell Nail
extremely thin nail
white spots under the nail plate
Leuconychia
Paronychia
bacterial inflammation of tissue
(perionychium) around the nail
Tinea Corporis
ringworm of the hand
Tinea Pedia
ringworm of the foot
Onychocyanosis
blue nail (usually caused by poor
circulation)
Hematoma Nail
bruised nail (usually caused by a
hammer or slammed door)
onychomycosis-ringworm of the nail
Tinea Unguium
Onychorrexis
split or brittle nails with a series of
lengthwise ridges
ridges/corrugations/furrows
Beau's Lines
atrophy or wasting away of the nail
Onychatrophia
Onychocryptosis
ingrown nail
Onychauxis
overgrowth of the nail plate
Onychosis
any nail disease
Onychophosis
accumulation of horny layers of
epidermis under the nail
Hair Disease/Disorders
Pityriasis Capitis
dry dandruff
Simplex
Pityriasis Capitis
Steatoids Seborrhea Oleosa
greasy dandruff
= Oily Dandruff
Trichoptilosis
split hair ends
Trichorrehexis Nodosa
knotted
Tinea Favosa
honeycomb ringworm
Tinea Capitis
ringworm of the scalp
Tinea Sycosis
barber's itch
Androgenetic Alopecia
common hereditary hair loss
Alopecia Adnata
loss of hair shortly after birth
hair loss in patches
Alopecia Areata
hair loss caused by inflammation of hair
follicles
Alopecia Follicularis
Alopecia Prematura
hair loss early in life
Alopecia Senilis
hair loss from old age
Alopecia Totalis
hair loss from entire scalp
Alopecia Universalis
hair loss from entire body
Traction/Traumatic
Alopecia
patchy hair loss sometimes due to
repetitive traction on the hair by
pulling or twisting
Postpartum
temporary hair loss at the conclusion
Alopecia
of pregnancy
Telogen Effluven
hair loss during the telogen phase of the
hair growth cycle
Canities
gray hair
Pediculosis Capitis
Headlice
Monilithrix
beaded hair
Fragilitis Crinium
brittle hair
Hirsuities/Hypertrichosis
superfluous hair, excessive
Scabies
contagious disease caused by the itch
mite
highly contagious bacterial infection,
usually
Impetigo/Infantigo
staphylococcal
Discoid Lupus
chronic autoimmune disorder, causes
red
Erythematosus (DLE)
often scarring plaques, hair loss, &
internal effects
Keloids
forms when excess collagen forms at the
site of a healing scar-overhealing
Asteatosis
excessive dry skin
Appendix A
Georgia State Board of Cosmetology
Glossary of Legal Definitions
Master Cosmetologist
Any person who performs any one or more of the following services for compensation:
Cuts or dresses the hair
Gives facial or scalp massage or facial and scalp treatment with oils or creams and other preparations made for
this purpose, either by hand or mechanical appliance
Singes and shampoos the hair, dies the hair, or does permanent waving of the hair
Braids the hair by hair weaving, interlocking, twisting, plaiting, wrapping by hand, chemical or mechanical
devices, or using any natural or synthetic fiber for extensions to the hair
Performs nail care, pedicure, or manicuring services as defined in Nail Technician
Performs the services of an esthetician as defined in Esthetician or Esthetics Operator
Such person shall be considered as practicing the occupation of a cosmetologist within the meaning of this Code
section; provided, however, that such term shall not mean a person who only braids the hair by hairweaving;
interlocking; twisting; plaiting; wrapping by hand, chemical, or mechanical devices; or using any natural or
synthetic fiber for extensions to the hair, and no such person shall be subject to the provisions of this chapter. Such
term shall not apply to a person whose activities are limited to the application of cosmetics which are marketed to
individuals and are readily commercially available to consumers.
Hair Designer
Any person who performs any one or more of the following services for compensation:
Cuts or dresses the hair
Singes and shampoos the hair or dyes the hair.
Esthetician
A person who, for compensation, engages in any one or a combination of the following practices, esthetics, or
cosmetic skin care:
Massaging the face or neck of a person
Trimming eyebrows
Dyeing eyelashes or eyebrows
Waxing, stimulating, cleansing, or beautifying the face, neck, arms, or legs of a person by any method with the
aid of the hands or any mechanical or electrical apparatus or by the use of a cosmetic preparation.
Such practices of esthetics shall not include the diagnosis, treatment, or therapy of any dermatological condition.
Such term shall not apply to a person whose activities are limited to the application of cosmetics which are marketed
to individuals and are readily commercially available to consumers.
Nail Technician
A person who, for compensation, trims, files, shapes, decorates, applies sculptured or otherwise artificial nails, or
in any way cares for the nails of the hands and feet of another person.
Appendix B
130-5-.01 Shampoo Equipment.
Shampoo bowls must be thoroughly cleansed and sanitized.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Pets” adopted. F. and eff.
June 30, 1965. Repealed: New Rule entitled “Shampoo Equipment” adopted. F. Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar.
17, 1986. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. May 11, 2006; eff. May 31, 2006.
130-5-.02 Linens.
Towels/linens, after being used once, must be placed in a closed container until properly
laundered. Clean towels must be kept in a closed cabinet, container, or closet except
linens which are designated for use on current patrons.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Linens” adopted. F. Feb. 25,
1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. Sept. 12, 2006; eff. Oct. 2, 2006.
130-5-.03 Sterilization.
The use of any article that is not properly cleansed and disinfected on any patron is
prohibited. Hands must be properly cleansed and sanitized prior to servicing each client.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Sterilization” adopted. F.
Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. July 20, 1993; eff. Aug.
9, 1993. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. Mar. 29, 2007, eff; Apr. 18, 2007. Repealed: New
Rule of same title adopted. F. Nov. 1, 2007; eff. Nov. 21, 2007.
130-5-.04 Waste and Garbage.
All waste material must be removed daily. Garbage shall be stored in a covered, washable
container and shall not be left in the establishment overnight. Each facility must be free
from stale food and soiled dishes.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Waste and Garbage” adopted.
F. Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. July 20, 1993; eff.
Aug. 9, 1993. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. Mar. 29, 2007, eff; Apr. 18, 2007. Repealed:
New Rule of same title adopted. F. Nov. 1, 2007; eff. Nov. 21, 2007.
130-5-.05 Cleaning and Recommended Disinfection of Implements.
(1) All multi-use tools, implements, and equipment used for cosmetology services that
come in contact with a client must be cleaned of all visible debris after each use and
disinfected after each use by complete saturation or immersion for at least 10 minutes in
an EPA-registered, hospital-grade dis infectant according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Autoclave is an acceptable method of sterilization. Each salon or shop shall provide
correct wet disinfection and dry storage standards at all times.
(a) Multi-use items constructed of nonporous materials such as metal, glass, or plastic for
use on more than one client include, but are not limited to the following items: nail
clippers, cuticle nippers, cuticle pushers, scissors, shears, reusable nail forms, manicure
and pedicure bowls, foot files, glass, metal and fiberglass files, metal drill bits, tweezers,
comedone extractors, brushes, combs, clips, reusable pencil sharpeners, reusable gloves,
and any other metal tools/non-porous implements not listed above.
(b) Single use items shall be discarded after being used one time. These items include:
buffers, emery boards, nail files, sleeves and sanders for electric files,
orangewood/birchwood sticks, wooden applicator sticks or spatulas, porous foot files,
pedicure slippers and toe separators, disposable gloves, paraffin liners, cotton balls,
cotton strips or swabs, neck strips and muslin strips or any items that cannot be
disinfected.
(2) Wet disinfection standards for tools, implements, or equipment:
(a) After cleaning, all tools, implements and equipment must be disinfected by complete
saturation or immersion (enough solution to cover all surfaces of the item) for 10 minutes
in an EPA-registered, hospital-grade disinfectant that is bactericidal, viruscidal,
fungicidal, and pseudomonacidal. The disinfecting solution must be changed daily
and/or prepared according to manufacturer’s directions.
(b) All tools, implements, or equipment that come in contact with blood or body fluids
must be disinfected by complete immersion for a minimum of 10 minutes in an EPAregistered
disinfectant that is effective against HIV-1 and Human Hepatitis B Virus, or
tuberculocidal that is prepared and used according to the manufacturer’s directions.
Autoclave is an acceptable method of sterilization.
(3) Dry storage standards for tools, implements, or equipment:
(a) All disinfected tools and implements shall be stored in a sanitary manner in a covered
container. The container must be labeled to show that it contains disinfected tools and
implements.
(b) Soiled and dirty tools and implements must be stored in a separate and properly
labeled covered container. Soiled and dirty tools and implements shall not be used aga in
until properly cleaned and disinfected according to the procedures stated in this rule.
(4) Hand washing is required before and between providing services to each client. An
anti-bacterial soap is recommended to sanitize the hands and the exposed portions of
arms before providing services and after smoking, drinking, eating, and using restrooms.
(5) Pedicure equipment cleaning and disinfection procedures to be used for all pedicure
equipment that holds water including sinks, bowls, basins, pipe-less, and whirlpool spas
are as follows:
(a) After each client, all pedicure units must be cleaned with a chelating soap or detergent
with water to remove all visible debris, then disinfected with an EPA-registered hospitalgrade
bactericidal, fungicidal, virucida l, and pseudomonacidal disinfectant used
according to manufacturer’s instructions for at least ten (10) minutes. If the pedicure unit
has a foot plate, it should be removed and the area beneath it cleaned, rinsed, and wiped
dry.
(b) At the end of each day of use, the following procedures shall be used:
1. All filter screens in whirlpool pedicure spas or basins for all types of foot spas must be
sanitized. All visible debris in the screen and the inlet must be removed and cleaned with
a chelating soap or detergent and water. For all pedicure units, the jet components and/or
foot plate must be removed and any debris removed and cleaned. The screen, jet, and/or
foot plate must be completely immersed in an EPA-registered, hospital-grade
bactericidal, fungicidal, virucidal, and pseudomonacidal disinfectant that is used
according to manufacturer’s instructions. The screen, jet, and/or foot plate should be
replaced after disinfection is completed and the system flushed with warm water and lowsudsing
soap for 5 minutes, rinsed, and drained.
2. After the above procedures are completed, the basin should be filled with clean water
and the correct amount of EPA-registered disinfectant. The solution must be circulated
through foot spa system for 10 minutes and the unit then turned off. The solution should
remain in the basin for at least 6 to 10 hours. Before using the equipment again, the basin
system must be drained and flushed with clean water.
(c) Once each week, additional procedures should be performed. After completing the
required cleaning procedures for the end of the day, the basin should be filled with water
that contains one teaspoon of 5.25% bleach for each gallon of water.
The solution should be circulated through the spa system for 5 to 10 minutes and then the
solution should sit overnight in the basin, or for at least 6 to 10 hours. Before being used
again, the system should be drained and flushed.
(d) A record or log book containing the dates and times of all pedicure equipment
cleaning and disinfection procedures must be documented and kept in the pedicure area
by the salon or shop and made available for review upon request by a consumer and/or an
inspector from the Board.
(6) Signs shall be posted in clear view in the reception area of the salon/shop as follows:
(a) Cosmetology laws, rules, and regulations are available upon request.
(b) All cosmetology services shall only be performed on intact, healthy scalp, skin, and
nails.
(c) Customers should not shave their legs the same day as receiving pedicure services to
reduce the risk of infection.
(7) Signs shall be posted in clear view in the pedicure services area of the salon/shop as
follows:
(a) All cosmetology services shall only be performed on intact, healthy scalp, skin, and
nails.
(b) Customers should not shave their legs the same day as receiving pedicure services to
reduce the risk of infection.
(c) Any razor-like implement, such as a credo blade, shall not be used to reduce the
chance of injury or infection.
(d) Pumice stones shall not be reused from one customer to another to prevent the spread
of bacteria.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Cleaning of Implements”
adopted. F. Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. July 20,
1993; eff. Aug. 9, 1993. Repealed: New Rule entitled “Cleaning and Recommended Disinfection of
Implements” adopted. F. May 11, 2006; eff. May 31, 2006.
130-5-.06 Storage of Preparations.
Creams, lotions and other cosmetics for use on patrons must be kept in sanitary, closed
containers. Authority O.C.G.A. Sec. 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Storage of Preparations”
adopted. F. Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986.
130-5-.07 Pets.
Pets shall not be allowed in cosmetology facilities, with the exception of animals for
handicapped patrons. Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Pets”
adopted. F. Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. Mar. 29,
2007; eff. Apr. 18, 2007.
130-5-.08 Protective Clothing and Footwear for Patrons.
Patrons in all Georgia Schools/salons/shops shall wear appropriate clothing and footwear
to prevent exposure to potential infectious materials.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6. History. Original Rule entitled “Recommended Disinfection –
Approved by the Georgia State Board of Health” adopted. F. Feb. 25, 1986; eff. Mar. 17, 1986.
Repealed:
New Rule entitled “Recommended Disinfection Approved by the Georgia Department of Human
Resources, Environmental Health Section” adopted. F. Oct. 20, 1995; eff. Nov. 9, 1995. Repealed: F.
May
11, 2006; eff. May 31, 2006. Amended: New Rule entitled “Protective Clothing and Footwear for Patrons”
adopted. F. Nov. 1, 2007; eff. Nov. 21, 2007.
130-5-.09 Protective Clothing.
Cosmetologists, hair designers, nail technicians, and estheticians in Georgia are required
to abide by all state laws for cosmetology, hair design, nail care, and esthetics. The
professions of cosmetology, hair design, nail technology and esthetics are subject to the
guidelines and rules promulgated by Georgia State Board of Cosmetology.
Cosmetologists, hair designers, nail technicians, estheticians are also subject to the
provisions of O.C.G.A. § 43-1-19. Practitioners of the cosmetology profession in Georgia
shall wear appropriate protective clothing for clinical services to prevent occupational
exposure to potential infectious materials. Appropriate clothing and footwear may
include, but not be limited to, clinical jackets, gloves and/or similar outer garments for
the protection from infectious or harmful materials.
Authority O.C.G.A. Secs. 43-10-2, 43-10-6, 43-10-9. History. Original Rule entitled “Protective Clothing”
adopted. F. May 10, 1993; eff. May 30, 1993. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. May 11,
2006;
eff. May 31, 2006. Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. Mar. 29, 2007; eff. Apr. 18, 2007.
Repealed: New Rule of same title adopted. F. Nov. 1, 2007; eff. Nov. 21, 2007.
Bibliography References:
•
Hair Color Chemistry, Anne Marie Helmenstine, Ph.D. Nov. 2010:
http://chemistry.about.com/cs/howthingswork/a/aa101203a.htm
•
Behindthechair.com, 20 Color Formulas and How-To by Kerri Lee 2012:
http://www.behindthechair.com/displayarticle.aspx?ID=1599
•
Wikipedia the Free Encyclopedia, Color Wheel by Kathleen Lochen Staiger (2006):
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_wheel
•
The Complete Guide to Working with Color by Simon Jennings, Chapter 26 (2009)
•
Milady’s Standard Hair Coloring Manual, by Deb Rangl (1997) Chapter 1 “The Level System”
•
Stock photography photos, dreamstime.com: http://www.dreamstime.com/?gclid=CN72d3inq8CFQjd4AodzHgKZw
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