INFOMONT/resesescalada/Deportiva/Levante/Costa Blanca

Transcription

Fax07 - COSTA BLANCA
UPDATE
Version 3 - 21 March 2000
CONTENTS
ACCESS PROBLEMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
GENERAL CORRECTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Page by page listing of amendments
GANDIA SECTOR FINAL TOPO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
GANDIA SECTOR LA CUEVA TOPO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
TOIX TV and OESTE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
ACCESS PROBLEMS
Page 24 - Gandia Access.
The land owners (of the area below the crag) have erected No Entry/Private Property signs on the
approach to Gandia. It is not clear if this refers to the path through the orchard or the whole crag in general. The people who supplied this information managed to reach the crag using another path but please be
aware that there may be a problem developing here. ; I have since heard that the old path is still functioning.
; Page 57 - Olta Access.
A new sign has been added which effectively bans access to the track up to the crag. The track has also
deteriorated dramatically and is now very hard going. Effectively you now need to park at the station and
walk up to the crag which is a bloody long way - 45 minutes or so.
Page 77 - Mascarat Parking.
Construction work is taking place all over Pueblo Mascarat. Large kerbs have been laid on both sides of
the road near the parking area by the bridge for the gorge routes making it impossible to get off the road
(even in a hire car!). The alternative is to either continue along the parking place for the sea cliffs and walk
back or, drive towards Pueblo Mascarat and bear right down a rough track towards the beach. Just before
the beach double back to the right on to a track which can be followed back up the gorge to the road
bridge (unless heavy rain is forecast!). NOTE: it looks like they could be building villas all over this area so
get the routes done now while you can still reach them.
21 new routes at Toix TV. Topo for Toix Oeste Lower
PENON d’IFACH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Two big routes on the Penon including New Dimensions.
NEW SELLA TOPOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Sector Marion, Sector Competicion and Sector Odja de Odra redrawn with ten new routes.
Page 116 - Sella Sector Wild Side Parking.
See the new topo on page 10.
Page 131 - Pena Rubia Approach.
A fancy gate has been constructed on the approach to this crag (at the point where the roads become
wide on the map) which is closed for access. There is apparently a way around the gate to the left on a
dirt track but how long this will be possible is uncertain
SELLA SECTOR WILD SIDE TOPO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
FORADA SOUTH FACE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Sector Petorri and Descote redrawn.
AGUJAS ROJAS by Karen Yeow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Full topos and approach details for this crag.
BLUE TEXT - Further information at the end of document
; RED TEXT - Additions since Version 2 update on 15/12/99
? GREEN TEXT - This appears where we are short of information. Please amend copies and send back
details like route lines and grades where you see the green question mark.
1
Costa Blanca Update 21/3/00
Thanks to the following who have all contributed to this information:
Johnny Adams, Karen Yeow, Kevin Davey, Steve Anthony, Neil Foster, Richard Sewards, Dave
Douglas, Richard Fox, Ian Henderson, Dave Musgrove, Filpini Frank, Bridget and Jeremy ?, Andreas
Polster, John Zangwill, Chris Heald, Philippa Poland, John Smith, Chris Gore, Nick Easton, Paul Green,
Lisa Curry, David Chadwick, Howard Jones, Guy Maddox, Stuart Greenall, Carl Dawson, Sebastian
Schwertner, Sami Salonen, Stefan Ringmann, John Tombs, Craig Smith, Molly Heitz, Jane Grundy,
Lewis Grundy, Andy Jones, Dave Ranby, Paul Brooks, Simon Brown, Nick Longland, Jon Read, Roger
Everett, Steve Swygart, Alan Cameron-Duff, Simon Jinks, Andrew Roberts, Rick Kruze, Giles Stone,
John Cardy, Iain Mann, Mark Bull, Chris Sims, Jon Pearson, Mandy Payne, Tim Seaborne, Bob
Bennett, Rowland Edwards, Don Roscoe, Martin Crocker, John Harwood, Karen Beattie, Bill Pattison,
Doug Reid, Martin Cooper, Steve Green. Sorry to anyone I have missed off.
GENERAL CORRECTIONS
Page 25 - Gandia - Approach.
It is better to mention Albaida instead of Alimones
on the approach turnings since there are more
signs to Albiada.
Page 28 - Gandia - Sector Vici.
Route 3 - Gora ETA and Route 3 - Nina de
Porcelana need switching however Nina still traverses left to the lower-off on Fissure Tal...
Page 29 - Gandia - Sector Fundicio.
Route 21 is only 6c+.
Page 30 - Gandia - Sector Final new topo.
See page 5.
Page 32 - Gandia - Upper Section.
The line marked on the topo left of Route 9 is now
a route. Grade unknown.
Route 9 - Cellas Cortos is probably 6b but it is also
worth three stars.
New route - Route 16a is a worthwhile 6a.
Route 17 - Kamari is worth two stars.
Gandia - Sector La Cueva topo.
See page 6.
Page 34 - Salem - Approach.
The correct road from the Gandia ring road is the
first turn off, not the second as it says in the text.
The road number is CV60.
Also - the note about bolts being removed from
Sector Estival is now incorrect since some have
been added recently to the bold lower moves.
Page 37 - Salem - Sector Frigorific.
Several people have commented that if you come
to Salem and just sample the routes on this sector
then you will think this is a poor crag. The hot tip is
to try the routes on Bon I Temps or Complicacions
first despite the temptaion of Frigorific being so
close to the car.
Hay No Billettes has its own lower-off slightly leftwards and over the top of the crag.
2
Page 39 - Salem - Sector Sol i Bon Temps.
; The cave by Route 1 - Akelarre now has three
new routes all with bright red bolts. They look good
on steep tufas, probably all in the upper 7s.
; Route 7 is worth high 6b.
Route 15 has a hard start but is easy above - only
worth 6c.
Route 16 is probably worth 7b and has a desperate third clip.
; Route 17 is hard for 6a+ and is only 1 star.
Page 45 - Aventador - Approach.
The approach description on this page is a bit of a
mess. Use the Gandia approach and follow signs
towards Albiada, on the CV610, off the ring road.
Then pick up the description at "After 12km ...."
The C322 has changed number to the CV612.
Page 47 - Aventador - Sector Caruso.
The routes just to the right of the cave are a bit
stiff for their grades. This could be due to them
being a bit steeper than the routes further right.
There is also some confusion about lines here
which may be caused by the word 'Astolfo' being
painted on the rock underneath the wrong route
according to the guidebook.
Page 49 - Sector Navarro.
Route 52 - Pase Millions is poor and probably
harder than 6b.
Page 51 - Jalón Valley - Alcalali.
; There is a long new line well to the left of the
main crag which is probably around 6a+.
Route 2 is an excellent sustained route with a fingery finish - low 7b+. Route 4 is probably 7b if you
climb straight up the tufa. A good 7a+ variation follows the wall on the right of the mid-height tufa.
Page 52 - Jalón Valley - Lliber - Left.
You can now drive all the way to the olive grove.
There is a new pipeline which will hopefully have
put and end to the random floods down the water
channel. Route 6 - Agarrate como Puedas is a 7a
dyno but is probably impossible for shorties. This
move is also used to start Route 5.
Page 53 - Jalón Valley - Lliber - Right.
Route 5 - La Bella is worth 7b and probably even
harder for shorties.
Page 55 - L’Ocaive.
There is an un-named pleasent, fully bolted chimney/groove immediately left of Route 6, Aluncia
con la esquina. - 4+.
Page 58 - Olta.
; SEE ACCESS PROBLEM ON PAGE 1.
There are four new routes at this crag. Tao is the
crack left of Wings of Freedom - grade unknown
but not that hard.
Mulan is the wall left of Tai Chi - fingery 7a+.
Das Buch der Sringe is left of Turron - grade 4 but
possibly harder (6a) if you go too far left.
Breakthrough is right of Christmas Dreams - 4
Some of these grade 4s at Olta are thought to be
a bit stiff by many climbers.
; In Winter the sun goes off this crag in the early
afternoon.
Page 60 - Penon South Face Comment.
Several people have pointed out that the estimated
time of four hour for an ascent is a bit optimistic.
Allow 6 hours for most parties especially on UBSA
and Valencianos.
Page 61 - Penon North Face Access.
There is a notice at the environment centre which
prohibits climbing on the north and north-west
walls during April, May and June. This affects
routes 1 to 3 on page 61. It is not clear if the MaySeptember ban given in the guide is still correct.
Page 61 - Penon North Face.
The route Pany has suffered a major rock-fall which
has left a lot of loose rubble on it. A massive area of
rock has fallen from the right of the corner of pitch 4
scattering debris, earth and torn up bushes over all
of the easy angle section below. The section covered in rubbish is dangerous and unpleasent and
the described pitch 4 looks very unsafe. Instead of
traversing left on pitch 3 into the remains of the corner, climb straight up the pleasant wall at the start of
the traverse to rejoin the route where it comes back
right, just after the stance at the top of pitch 4. This
wall is about Spanish grade 4+/5 and reasonably
well protected with nuts.
Page 63 - Penon South Face - Valencianos.
I have received enough comments to make me
think that this route is a bit undergraded in the
Rockfax. Chris Craggs probably has it about right
with pitch grades as follows - 3, 3, 5+, 4, 4, 4 then
two easy climb-out pitches.
To reduce stone fall risk you may want to take the
following option for the first two pitches:
1) 35m. Climb first rightwards and then back left to
a slab. Belay on the left on bolts. (ie. out of the
way of stonefall in the corner).
2) 40m. Move up left past bushes to gain a ledge
running back right above the slab. Then easily up into
an earthy corner and ledge. Bolt belay on left wall.
3) Climb the blocky corner...........etc.
Page 63 - Penon South Face - New Route.s
Full descriptions for two big routes including a topo
for the amazing New Dimensions - page 8.
; Page 65 - Gomez Cano.
This route is a big mountain route and if you
attempt it don’t expect clean rock and perfect
bolts. Also take a lot of water with you and allow a
more than four hours unless you are a super-fast
team. A few additional points to mention:
1) the more accurate grades are given with the
text rather than in the route title although the last
pitch is probably worth 6a+.
2) the 7b/A1 pitch is a bolt ladder not a one-move
quick pull hence a sling for an foot stirrup is useful.
3) the ‘small bay’ on pitch 4 has been described as
a “sloping shale beach” by one ascensionist, with
lots of loose rock.
4) Belay above the chimney on pitch 8 to reduce
rope-drag.
Page 65 - Diedro UBSA.
Some find pitch 4 the crux of the whole route so
maybe at least 5+ is warranted.
The abseil on pitch 8 is nearer 8m than 20m but
also note that you need to swing some distance to
the left (looking in) to reach the twin bolt belay.
; Page 69 - Toix Este.
Route 11 - Winter is 35m long so take care when
lowering off.
Route 13 is called Spolli and is marked by red
splodges.
Route 29 is only 7c and involves some slate-like
slab climbing.
Page 70 - Toix Oeste.
Route 1 - Amarilla has had its bolts chopped on
pitch 2.
Route 11 - The Blue Route actually goes leftwards
through the top bulge in a good podition.
Route 13 (to the right of Dire Straits) is a good fully
bolted grade 4, 3+. Pitch 2 might be 4+ if you follow it to the upper double bolts and don’t lower-off
the single. Both pitches are 30m. Make 2 abseils
to descend.
There is a route between Routes 16 and 17,
Renov 5- is painted on the rock. Pitch 1 is up a
broken groove. Pitch 2 is up the slab above, traversing to lower-off bolts on 13. The grade is more
like 4, 4+.
Route 19 has its own lower-off.
See also new routes on Toix TV Lower - page 7.
COSTA BLANCA - Corrections continued...
Page 72 - Toix West - Lower.
See page 7 for a topo
Page 75 - Toix TV - Lower Wall and First Wall
See page 7 for many new routes.
Page 78 - Toix Sea Cliffs - Candelabra....
Roland’s Magical Mystery Tour is possibly a bit
easier than 5 but you may need to add a bit for the
situation. The belay at the end of pitch 2 has been
moved down so the description for pitch 3 should
be - "Move right and climb a rib..." instead of left.
Pitches are about 10m, 15m, 30m. There are ENP
placements on the belays at the end of pitches 1
and 2. These require a Rock 2 or similar.
; Candelabra del Sol can be climbed in one long
pitch. It is a superb route but the most amazing
thing is that it is in fact 7b+ and not 8a as claimed.
Page 79 - Toix Sea Cliffs.
There is a bolted line up the line of the 50m abseil.
Slabby start steepening to a hard crux move, with
a fair amount of rope-drag, to reach the abseil
ledge. El Dorado 1.5 is almost certainly closer to
the real line of El Dorado 2. The following combination gives the best pitches.
1) 6a Follow the dots of Route 9 to belay in the
crack (between the two belays marked).
2) 6b Climb the crack and amazingly featured wall
above to a sloping ledge with a bolt belay way
back up left. Take lots of slings for the threads on
pitch 2. The line out right is an escape pitch with a
fair amount of loose rock and hardly any fixed
gear.
; Page 80 - Via UPSA.
In general the route is easy to follow as long as
you look out for the bolts-without-hangers. A full
rack is definitely needed to back up some of the
belays. 2 to 3 stars is correct for an alpine-style
route, but considering there's no reliable gear left,
it might be tough going for beginners.
Here is an improved description.
1) 3 40m. Follow the easiest line up the pillar to
belays under steeper rock.
2) 4 35m. Follow the cracked rib above the belay
to where the ridge levels out
3) 2 35m. Scramble easily up the ridge to grassy
terrace. Walk along terrace to peg belay at foot of
upper wall, below and L of a groove.
4) 4+ 40m. Climb up and right to the foot of the
groove, and climb it for 2-3m before pulling round
onto the right edge (bolt). Follow a line of
cracks up the wall to threads (poss belay), and traverse right to peg and thread belay.
5) 5+ 35m. Climb the polished groove (old pegs,
one new bolt) and continue in the same line to
belay (threads, old bolt).
6) 4+ 30m. Climb the wall above and left of the
belay, then trend rightwards (pegs - optional bolt
belay down and right) to the arete. Go round
the arete and traverse right to exposed stance.
7) 4 35m. Continue traversing right to a groove climb this and slabs above to the top.
; Descent for Via UPSA If you continue to the
top there are two more excellent easy pitches, a
super scramble and a lovely ridge walk across the
top. To descend you have to traverse the whole
ridge until you reach a villa building site, descend
through this then traverse back across the
mountain to the normal descent gully. Instead of
going down the normal descent gully, keep to the
south of it and follow the bounding ridge and
scramble down the hillside to join the road by the
first tunnel entrance on the approach from Altea.
Page 82 - Mascarat.
Terminar has been re-bolted (for the first 3 pitches
at least) and you don’t need a rack for these. You
can descend down the back of the hill through the
tunnel from this point.
Gede is now fully bolted apart from the easy last
pitch (take a few wires) and is very worthwhile.
Pitches 2 and 3 are longer and better than suggested in the guide and pitch 4 is the crux pitch at
probably 6a "an overhanging soapy flake" although
it can be easily aided if necessary.
; Page 83 - Mascarat.
Aurora pitch 4 is probably worth 6a. The optional
finish (shared with Montesinos) is loose and above
the road.
Page 87 - Altea.
Route 6 - Green, is harder possibly 6b+.
; Route 7 - Yellow, is only 5+.
The approach to this crag is now fully tarmaced.
Apartments are now being built opposite the crag.
You will struggle to lower-off routes 6 to 10 with a
60m rope so please take great care. Abseil if in
doubt.
Page 88 - Altea Col.
Route 5 - Entre dos tierras is more like 7a or 7b for
the hideous start.
Route 6 - Walking on the Milkyway is 6c for the
start, 6a+ above.
Route 7 - Salva Mea is still a project. Apologies to
Jens Muenchberg for describing it as a route. It will
be harder than 7c.
Page 91 - Echo Placa.
General comments. The crag is in a superb location but the routes are big trad routes so expect
loose rock, long approach thrashes and tricky
descents.
Clearer Approach Description - From junction 65
on the A7 (by the Mammoth supermarket) take the
Callosa - Polop road northwards. In the centre of
Polop turn leftwards towards Guadalest. Follow
this uphill for 4.5km (500m after the 4km milepost)
and turn left onto a dirt track. Follow this track for
3.8km (this can be done in a car if it hasn't rained
recently) to a white building where the track starts
to descend. There is a chained off track on the
right; park here if you are still in your car. Walk up
this for 1.5km until you are below the wall. Route
Notes. Large Friends needed for pitch 5 of Luna
Sombre.
Here are some comments on The Forth Addition
"The rock is worrying, the climbing is poor and the
approach and finishing sections are awful. It is
also unbalanced, with the crux pitch being much
harder than graded. Definitely one to miss, we'd
have been better off going for a walk". - Roger
Everett
; Page 94 - Puig Campana Approach.
The road into Finestrat is for residents only.
Instead follow the main road around the village
and then turn right before turning left into the road
for Font de Moli. This by-pass road isn’t marked on
the map on page 94 but it is the obvious way and
also the way you drive towards Sella.
Page 95 - Espolon Central - Descent.
The descent route from Espolon Central is now
rigged with wire cable, via ferrata fashion, on some
(but not all) of the harder and more exposed
moves.
Improved description for Espolon Central - Direct
Start ? I don’t quite follow this description so if
anyone can supply a better one then please do.
One thing is clear and that is that it joins the normal route after 3 pitches and not 5 as in the book.
1) 3 35m. Start to the left of the flat oval area of
rock. Climb a ramp up left.
2) 4+ 35m. Climb left across the groove and up
the arete to a ledge.
3) 4 25m. Move up and right to join the original
route at a big ledge coming from the left.
3
Improved description for The Edwards Finish
1) Scramble onto the tower in front of the main
face.
2) 4 25m. Climb over the tower until a second, one
comes into view and go around that on the left to
the col between the main face and the towers.
3) 4+ 25m. Climb up the slab on the main face
moving right to a flatish plateau at its top. After
scampering up the plateau for 15m
4) 4+ 25m. Directly climb the wall to the top, trending leftwards slightly at the top to reach a tree.
The rib leads to the top.
Another alternative finish:
From the finish of Espolon Central, scramble up to
a narrow ridge with massive drops on the south
side. Follow the ridge (exposed in places) to about
10m in front of a large tower in front of the main
face. Easier variations are usually available on the
north side of the ridge to this point.
The Fewell Finish
1) 50m. Climb across the ridge to the tower then
skirt it on the left (north) into a gully, climb
to gully to the col.
2) 30m. Stand on top of the boulders on the col
and climb rightwards across a steep slab to
a vegetated ledge. Now climb the rib on the left of
the vegetation and on the right of the blank
face. This leads to a good ledge with a solid thread
at its centre.
3) 35m. Climb up into a depression above the right
hand side of the ledge then traverse
rightwards to a point below a flake crack. Climb
straight up via the flake crack to a good ledge
with a solid thread just above head height.
4) 50m. Escape from the right-hand side of the
ledge, when faced with a choice of going right
or left go left and scramble up to the area of trees.
Descent - Continue over the top (ignore a cairn
down to the right (seaward side)). Then
scramble down into the square-cut col which is the
distinctive feature of this mountain’s profile.
The path from here is vague, there are some small
cairns occasionally which help. From the
northern end of the col scramble down steeply to
the right (towards the sea). All being well you
will find an abseil anchor at the top of a via ferrata.
One 25m abseil is required. Now contour
round to the north and drop down a gully to the
main descent gully. Boots or hard soled crag
approach shoes strongly recommended for the
descent of this horrible scree gully.
Page 98 - Aguja Encantada - El Diamante.
The alternative 7a start to El Diamante is sparsely
bolted - gear is needed. The normal first pitch is
about 50m rather than 30m, and it is best to split it
to avoid drag. It is also poor and vegetated.
Page 105 - Sella - Culo de Rino - Right.
There are two new routes between Route 2 - Los
Refugiados and Route 3 - Via del Indio.
Left Diestra Siniestra - 5 and right Y Golpe de
Porrazo - 5. Diestra Siniestra starts where Los
Refugiados is marked on the topo and is hard for
5.
Page 107 - Sella - Techo del Rino.
New first pitch to Cardo Borriquero up the crack
between routes 8 and 10. One report of 6a and
another of 6b, let's call it 6a+.
NOTE you can't reach the ground from the top of
Cardi Borriquero on a 60m rope.
New route right of Route 13 - No Me Bajes:
El Torronet - 6a, worth 2 stars.
Page 108 - Sella - Sector Marion.
See page 8 for a redraw.
Page 109 - Sella - Sector Competition.
Page 110 - Sella - Sector Oja de Orda.
Page 112 and 113 - Sella - Pared de Rosalia.
There has been some activity up here even since
the new topo in Edition 2 so prepare to be a bit
confused. Only brief details are known.
There is a new route/start right of Route 6.
Routes 10/11 have an upper pitch.
The lone line through holes between Route 12 and
13 is now bolted and looks excellent.
Route 14 must be the longest pitch around since it
virtually reaches the top of the crag in one.
Route 17a is a good 7a up the wall left of the
groove.
Route 18 has a very hard move on it (harder than
a 7b+ on Sector Techo according to my source).
Route 18a is a good 6c+.
; Route 23 - Mujer Lamprea is a superb, fully
bolted mega route which is worth adding to your
tick list.
4
Page 116 - Sella - Sector Wild Side.
Page 117 - Sella - Outlying.
Just before the Second Edition went to the printers
someone who had climbed these routes told me
that they were very hard and sharp and not worth
three stars.
Page 118 - Top approach to the Divino.
Someone has said that all the distances quoted in
the approach description should be 0.4km less. It
may be that the 2 people who measured it for me
started at points 400m apart. ie. If there is no dirt
track at 4km, turn right at 4.4km.
Page 119 - Sella - El Elephante.
This impressive crag is worth a visit if you lead 6c
or above. The routes are curiously geared so take
a rack with you. Once on them, they give can
superb and intricate climbing.
The Naked Edge can be done on one 60m rope
and gives an immaculate sustained pitch. Once at
the top belay, pull your rope through, drop an end
and pull up another rope to abseil off on. This is
better than splitting it since the belay is poor and
the second section is more than 30m anyway.
Split Gran Fisura at the (in-place) half-height belay
since it is at least 60m.
Route 8 - Project is a good 7a+ wall climb to the
first lower-off.
Route 5 - Edwards Wall, is only 7b to the first
lower-off.
Route 2 - Scorpion is better split at what is
described as the mini lower-off, and not at the
higher stance.
Page 121 - The Divino - Sector Pertemba.
I have had several comments about this route, few
of them complimentary.
"Pitch 2 is good, the rest is choss".
The belay after P3 is reputedly very dangerous
with much loose rock perched above it. One person has commented that you can abseil down
Espolón Pertemba but you need 2 long ropes and
some tape to leave behind on some of the
stances. Another person has commented that
there are no pinnacles or flakes on pitch 4. Their
alternative description is "press on up the slabs,
slightly leftwards".
Page 121 - Techo Placa.
The start of Voyages is unstable and 6c+. Wires
are required for start of the route Techo Placa.
; Page 126 - Alcoy
Route 3 is worth a star and 6a.
Route 4 is worth 6a+.
Route 5 is worth a star and 6a+.
Routes 7 and 8 may well have been de-bolted or
never have been there in the first place.
Route 12 is probably worth 6a+.
Route 13 is very hard - 7b at least!
Route 17 is also very hard (7b or more) and there
is no photo any more.
Routes 31 to 35 hace high first bolts.
; Page 129 - Reconco Approach
It may be possible now to approach the crag via
the second track.
; Page 130 - Reconco.
The extra routes mentioned on page 130 are well
worth seeking out. They are on a small buttress
down and right from the main face at Reconco (?
more accurate approach details needed). The wall
is well sheltered which is useful if you are getting
blown off Reconco.
There are six routes;
1) 7a, 2) 6b+, 3) 6b+/6c, 4) 6b+, 5) 6a+, 6) 6a+
Crag Near Reconco - Agjuas Rojas
Full details on page 11.
; Page 136 - Cabreras - Approach.
Both sets of traffic lights you encounter in Sax,
after leaving the motorway, are now roundabouts.
The junction for Sax in the description is the first
junction on the motorway.
Alternative approach avoiding the town
At first roundabout (marked as traffic lights in the
guide) turn right. Continue along passing below the
Fort up on left. Take the next left (signed El Plano).
Follow this road for approx 400m then turn
right onto narrow lane (again signed El Plano).
From here, continue along a narrow road past the
white house ... as in the book.
; Page 138 - Cabreras - Penas Del Rey.
There is a new top pitch between the upper lines
10 and 11 at 6a.
Page 145 - Salinas - Approach.
As described for Cabreras, both sets of traffic
lights in Sax are now roundabouts. You need to
turn left at the first - the sign to Salinas is not obvious - and drive straight on at the second.
Page 146 - Salinas - Sector Final.
Route 10 - Donde Dices que Vas is probably more
like 6a+.
Page 147 - Salinas - Sector La Higuera.
Route 4 - Babieca is soft touch at 7b+, more like
7b.
Page 149 - Salinas - Sector Picara Viborita Left.
; Route 6 - Ponsela is worth 6a and should be
climbed direct up the scoop.
Amonite doesn't have a hard start and is probably
only 5+, it is Ali Baba ... (route 12) which has a
hard start - possibly 6b.
; Page 150 - Salinas - Sector Picara Viborita
Right.
Route 25 has a new lower-off up and left but the
original finish is still the best.
Page 156 - Forada - Sector Super Heroes.
Route 1 left of Tundra is an immense and endless
route of 8-something difficulty.
The bolt left of Batman now has a route, grade
unknown.
Clipping the 4th bolt on Batman is a bit of a challenge.
Route - 5 has now been climbed at a dodgysounding 8a+. It is brilliant of course.
There is a silly created route/project up the bulging
right-hand side of the through cave on the left of
Sector Elecciones.
Page 157 - Forada - Sector Elecciones.
Route 6 - Abstencíon is only 6b+ and Route 7 - La
Fuerza del Parabol is only 6a+.
Page 161 - Forada - South Face.
DO NOT USE THE THROUGH TUNNEL TO
ACCESS THE SOUTH FACE, WALK AROUND
THE BOTTOM.
This is an excellent crag and is very much worth
considering even if you don't climb that hard since
several people have reported having good days
while climbing exclusively on the sunny south face.
The only consideration here is that it isn't too hot.
The views from the crag are wonderful.
Page 161 - Forada - South Face - Sector Petorri
and Descote
GANDIA - Sector Final - Page 30
4
4a
5
1
2
3
4. Tercer Left
GANDIA SECTOR FINAL
6
7
8
9 10
11
1x 7b
...........
There are a few confusing anomalies on this sector which have
hopefully now been cleared up with help from Carl Dawson. One
of the problems seem to be in the route names which are different across the local topo, the Rockfax and Chris Craggs guide. I
have stuck with the route names and numbers as per both editions of Fax07 but some of the lines have changed and there are
three new routes.
Climb the orange wall past a hard move then take the left-hand
branch.
The first route is up the left-hand side of a long narrow wall.
Superb, intricate climbing with a big finish.
1. Maqui Popeye y la Sirla . . . . . .
x 6b
1x 7b
4a. Tercer Right . . . . . . . . . .
The right-hand branch.
5. Muluk el Tarqui . . . . . . . . .
3x 7a+
1x 7b
Given 7c+ before. Shares start with route 5.
2. Donde Hostias ... . . . . . . .No Bolts
7. Botoia Sakatu . . . . . . . . . . . .
It was a good 6c wall climb..
1fx 6b
3. Juputa . . . . . . . . . . . .
A steep start but the crux pulls are on the thin grey wall right of
the upper corner.
x 7c/7c+?
Start left of the recess.
3x 7c
8. Enya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steep fingery wall right of the big flake.
2x 7b
9. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . .
Excellent route which is hard to on-sight if you don't find the hidden hold.
1x 7b
10. "Twin Bolts" . . . . . . . . . .
Harder than 7a+.
5
16
13
14
17
17a
17b
18
15
The main feature of this wall is the magnificent elephant's trunk
tufa. The next route is just to the left of this.
11. Dos Super Carrozas . . . . .
3x 7a
Brilliant moves past a heart-shaped hole and onto the trunk.
Eases above. DON'T see the photo on the inside back cover 'cos
it ain't there anymore.
12. Don Diego . . . . . . . . . . .
6. Sugar Glass . . . . . . . . . . .
Start by a block.
12
3x 7a
Another great route with a steep start which is okay if you don't
think about it too much.
13. Jaque Mate . . . . . . . . . .
3x 7a+
A powerful start and a bit of a tricky finish, if you are pumped,
which you probably will be.
1x 7a+
14. Solta el Mos . . . . . . . . . .
Less steep but has a (chipped) fingery finish.
x 8a?
15. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hard and fingery with a blank section. Known as Jaque Mate
elsewhere.
2x 7a
16. Groceries . . . . . . . . . . . .
An excellent quick and pumpy pitch.
2x 6c+
17. A Mano . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Much pumpier than it looks. Possibly 7a.
x 7a/b?
17a. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The left-hand line out of the cave.
x 7a+
17b. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The steep central line has one hard move to leave the glued flake.
18. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6c+
Very poor.
GANDIA - SECTOR LA CUEVA
Gandia - Sector La Cueva
Topo by Alan Cameron-Duff
More bolts
to high
lower off
P
10
11
12
12
13
8
6
13
11
7
15
14
9
10
?
P
16
17
18
?
15
See enlarged topo
P
P
3
4
5
2
1
SECTOR LA CUEVA
This cave gives some superb hard routes which should make the
Costa Blanca more attractive to climbers operating in the upper
grades. The climbing is as impressive as that found at crags like
Fraguel and Las Perchas in Mallorca, or Volx in France. It faces
east and is well sheltered.
APPROACH - Drive to Gandía as described above. Continue past
the turning for the crag for 900m then turn left (signed 'Bar
Carril'). Drive on for another 900m and turn left again at a small
bike sign. Drive down here for about 450m to the second turning
on the left (which is a tarmac-ed road just past a green gate).
Take this and drive to the end of the road. Park leaving room for
cars to turn. Follow the path across a slope and back left to reach
the crag (5 mins).
Long aid sling
The first route is up a grey rib on the left-hand end of the crag.
1. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1x 6b+
1x 7a+
Broccoli wall leadin to steep bulge. Good but untravelled and a
touch friable. Locally given 6c.
2x 7a
3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Just right of small cave. Hard start up bulging wall then easier rib
above.
1x 6a+
4. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wall behind trees. Good climbing with nice finish.
5. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1x 6b
Another good grey wall.
Gandia
Main Crag
Junction
signed
‘Barx’
The next lines are three very impressive projects.
3x 7c+
6. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Start up the block to the right and traverse left, crossing the next
route.
Sector La Cueva
3x 8a+
7. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sign ‘Bar Carril”
Direct through the lower bulge.
N332
GANDIA
8. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3x 7c
A direct finish to route 6.
‘Private’
3x 7c+
9. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
‘Bike’ sign
A7
P
17
Wall
From road
Reasonable little rib at far left-hand side of crag.
2. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
16
14
12
The long wall starting up the block.
The main cave routes are so steep that they get hardly any sun.
The routes are also very complex and the roof has several pocket
lines which cross each other. All of these are bolted and most
have been climbed but where the actual intended route lines are
is unclear. The lines on the two topos here are as taken from the
local topo however there are several lines of bolts which don't fit
onto their topo. The cave itself is only of interest to people who
lead 7c+ and above. Route 17, the 7a+, is easy to find.
3x 8c+
11. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3x 7c+
12. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3x 7c+
13. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 8a
14. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3x 8a
15. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 8a
The lower path is 8c+!
10. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2x 8b
17. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 7a+
Good long route with a tricky lower section. Loose in middle.
16. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x (6a)
18. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Scrappy route up grey slab right of cave.
6
Further right is a high bulge with yet another impressive project.
? Please help
improve these
updates by amending this page and
returning a copy to
ROCKFAX
TOIX WEST and TV - New Routes - Pages 73 and 75
- Thread
Toix TV - Lower Wall - now called Toix Placa
40m
40m
All these lines are approximate
TOIX TV - The First Wall
(Page 73)
More new stuff up here. All the
names are painted on the rock.
22
20
14
13
11
12
15 16
17
18
21
A lot of routes here.
They may be in the
wrong order
10
3
1
2
8
7
7 and 8 might not be
in the correct order
TOIX TV LOWER now TOIX PLACA (Page 75)
Jens Muenchberg has been busy here and has added a lot of new
routes. A consequence of extending the routes down the hill
towards Toix Oeste is that many people are now approaching it
from below since it is almost a continuation of the routes on
page 71. This is probably also a quicker approach.
NOTE - the new bolts are good resin bolts but many only have
single bolt lower-offs.
I haven’t got many route lines for the above and would appreciate someone marking them on this topo (or better - drawing
a new one) and sending it back. Also we have no star ratings please feel free to add them.
The routes have now been described from right to left.
x 4+
2. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5
3. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . .nx 6a+
4. Mu Shu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+/6a
5. Ghost in the Shell . . . . . . . . . .x 6c+
6. Kalk Stall Videnhul . . . . . . . . .x 6b
In guide - now bolted.
1. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7. Coming back to Life . . . . . . . .
x 6b+
Very thin slab moves.
x 6b+
8. Thalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 6a+
10. Pegasus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a+
2 bolts at the start.
9. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 5+
11. Cicky Bugger . . . . . . . . . . . .
There are two methods one to the right of the bolts.
x 5+
13. Johanna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5
14. Heti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4
The line of old threads.
12. Heaven Is... . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 5+/6a
16. Semi Dulce . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+/6a
Route 6 in the guidebook.
15. 4 You . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 5+/6a
18. Fantasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a
19. For my son Jens . . . . . . . . .x 6b
An easy wall, then a big ledge, then a deceptive scoop.
x 6c
21. Hafa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4+, 4
Route 7 in the guidebook - now bolted.
20. Aladdin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x3
15
8
14
13
7
9
11
12
10
6
5
2
3
4
1
Green lines are new and
may not be marked
correctly on the topo
To the
Amphitheatre
Route 12 is
somewhere here
x 6a+
2. Gufelwufel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5
3. Seduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+/6a
4. Banana Joe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a
In guide.
1. Universal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x5
. . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+
5. Intressengem . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6. Dear Renate
In guide.
7. Tropical Dreams . . . . . . . . . . .
x 6a
In guide.
8. UB40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 5+
In guide.
x 5+
10. Clound No.9 . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a/6a+
11. Gaudi Max . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6b
In guide.
9. El Baile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12. Follow me . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 7a+
TOIX OESTE - LOWER
The routes on this short bit of rock, below Toix Oeste, have
been re-bolted since the page was removed from the Second
Edition of Fax07 so here is the topo again.
APPROACH - Walk down rightwards from below the main Toix
West buttress.
x3
2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4
3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 3
4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 3+
5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4
6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4+
7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5
Has now been bolted.
1 .......................
1x 6b+
8 ....................
50m to the right is a tufa.
TOIX OESTE - Lower
May be in the wrong position.
17. Steinbeisser . . . . . . . . . . . . .
22. Hova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
The route lines are approximate
and some may not be in the
correct order. Please feel free
to redraw or amend.
17 16
19
9
5
4
6
50m right
x 7a
8
13. Salida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
In guide.
14. ? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 6c
This could be Follow me.
15. Terminator
x 6c+
.............
In guide.
x 6a
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5
16. Daddycool . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
17. Un-named
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
PENON d’IFACH - Two New Routes
NEW DIMENSIONS
3x 7b
New Dimensions . . . . . . . . . .
At the top abseil off or
walk down rightwards to
Odja de Odra
4
No fixed gear
?
6c
35m routes
5+
Immense bulge
Immense
prow
Hanging seat
Hard wall
z o n e
5
Good
picnic ledge
r o c k
Bolts
marked
on the
three
grade 5
pitches
5+
3b
Very long
pitch
(20 clips)
Twin flakes
Alternative
6c pitch
6b+
7
4
5
7a
climbing, along with a bit of dodgy rock along the way. Not as impressive as New
Dimensions but certainly number 2 in the pecking order.
Black bolts
Start midway between Costa Blanca and El Navigante, below a line of new bolts to the
up white wall
7b
right-hand side of the huge pillar.
1) 7a+. Climb easily into a crumbly cave. Pull out right and up a leaning, compact wall Prominent ledge
by far the hardest moves on the whole route. Easier off-vertical wall climbing to a belay.
2) 6c. Move on up the wall past a rock scar, then make a scary move leftwards onto a
loose-looking flake - which is okay. Climb overlapped walls above to a belay.
3) 6b. Climb a scary and loose bulge then follow easy ground to reach a big steep jamming/layback crack which is fully bolted.
4) 6c+. A technical and exposed hanging arete, in better brown rock, leads to a belay on big ledge on top of the pinnacle.
5) 5. Step down across the void to gain lovely, easy, smooth jamming cracks. A very pleasant respite.
6) 6c+. A brilliant, big overhanging pitch up the equivalent band of perfect rock which the amazing 'blobs' pitch on New Dimensions follows. Ever steeper moves up the big corner to a tricky capping roof. Completely out-there!
7) 7a? The enigma. Bolts lead leftwards across a compact, prickly wall towards a thread in a pocket. Don't follow the bolts, as there are
no holds. Stretch left to clip the bolt out on the wall, and reverse back to base. Drop down and traverse underneath a perfect top-rope
left to pockets in the leaning wall. Lever up these to the aforementioned thread, and follow the thin corner above, past the odd chipped
slot, to easy ground and the top. There may also be a high level method on the traverse
SECTOR MARION (Page 108)
x 6b
2. Hola Patricio . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a
3. Puntea que no Tienes . . . . . . .x 6b
1. Colp de Cot . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
There are two new routes on the wall to the right. Both are about
35m and have very high first bolts which means you can loweroff with a second rope and get to the ground before the knot
reaches the first bolt. Take care whatever you do here.
3a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1x 6b+
Good technical wall with a poor finish.
3b. Rosalind Sutton . . . . . . . .
1x 6a+
Poor lower wall leading to great crack. Combine lower bit of 3a
with upper bit of 3b for the best route (6b+).
Down the hill, past the trees are some more routes.
1x 6a
4. Bolt Tax . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
9
10
11
6
This sector has been badly drawn in both editions of Fax07.
Above is an attempt at a better topo. The first three routes are
just to the left of this new topo and are long overdue an
upgrade.
3x 7a+
This fully-bolted, 7-pitch monster, has some atmospheric and occasionally intimidating
3a
6c+
; Puto Paseo Ecologico
8
Colpe de Cot Area
6c
Sector
Competicion
50m to
ground
from here
L o o s e
This amazing route tackles the awe-inspiring right-hand side of the vast South Face of the
Penon. After a desperate first pitch it relents somewhat before building to an incredible
finale on the huge bulging headwall. The climbing is sustained and intimidating and the
whole route is about English E6 to free but probably still E5 if you pull on a bolt or two on
the first pitch. A recent report puts the route at E5 free. All the main pitches are bolted but
the three easier pitches have only a few bits of fixed gear to show the line. The stance are
mostly bolted with the same arrangement of three bolts. There are other belays so if
yours hasn't got 3 good bolts, then you may be on the wrong line.
GEAR - It is advisable to take a rack for the three easy pitches and the last one since there
is quite a lot of loose rock. Twin 50m ropes are a good idea in case you have to retreat
but a single 60m will get you to the top since the pitches are fairly straight. Also worth
taking are your prussik loops just in case you fall off pitches 8 or 9.
APPROACH - Walk to the end of the promenade and continue to the path below the huge
quarried wall. Follow this back leftwards up the slope. When you are about half way up
the slope to the main routes, double back right to a perched ledge, below a line of black
bolts, up a gently leaning wall.
1) 7b (7a minimum to frig) 35m. A much harder pitch than it looks and worth every bit
of its 7b grade. It is similar to the Main Wall routes at Gogarth, only harder and steeper
than most of them, but with better protection. The crux is by the three close bolts, then
comes a hands-off rest. Take a good break here since the upper section is incredibly
draining to a non-rest on a big flake. One final hard move gains the stance. This last move
can't be frigged very easily.
2) 7a 35m. Climb straight up the wide crack behind the stance and follow the line over
two awkward bulges above. The line of bolts out to the left of the stance are an enjoyable
alternative 6c pitch which gets a bit lost higher up by a thin slab. The first move of this
alternative is very entertaining.
3) 6b+ 50m. A huge long pitch. The first moves are thin after that it plods upwards for
miles. Take care or you will run out of clippers.
4) 6c+ 40m. The short wall above is hard and steep. At the top of this wall is a ledge
below 20m of easy ground. Keep slightly right here until you reach a big ledge below the
hanging seat.
5) 5 20m. Step right around the corner past a peg. Follow the loose groove and step right
onto a belay above a pillar.
6) 5+ 30m. Teeter leftwards past a peg to a bolt. Continue into a bay then left to a thread.
Squirm back up rightwards past a bolt to belly-flop onto a ledge.
7) 5+ 35m. Spy the solitary bolt way up right and meander up to this. The short rib is
awkward and another belly-flop necessary to gain the next ledge. Walk right and pick your
jaw off the ground after you have seen where the next pitch goes.
8) 6c 25m. Just try and enjoy the position as you tip-toe up the groove, then launch up
the big holds to grab the blobs. Pray they don't break off and clip all four bolts at the
belay. Take a deep breath and stare downwards for ten seconds.
9) 6c 40m. A stunning pitch in an awesome position, but only the second best pitch on
this route. Follow the hanging groove above then tweak a few crimps (the smallest holds
on the route?) when the rock and angle changes. Continue past a couple of ledges to a
good stance.
10) - 40m. Scramble off rightwards past two grooves then double back left to reach the
top.
SELLA - Sector Marion - Page 108
1x 5
6. Cartujal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 5+
7. Cul de Sac . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5,5
8. Prusik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 5+,5+
9. Anglopithecus.... . . . . . . . . . .x 5,5,?
Now has a third pitch.
5. Deja Vu . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1x 5+
10. Mr Pi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Start by bridging up the groove. Hard 6a if you stick to the hardest line. Can escape right to the crack.
3x 5+
11. Maríon . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The classic prominent arete offers one of Sella’s most celebrated
climbs. The grades suggested for the various pitches seem to
vary wildly from person to person.
1) 5+ 25m. Hard moves over a bulge then trend left to ledges.
2) 4 20m. Continue to another stance (50m to ground).
3) 4+ 20m. Follow a small groove to a tricky bulge. The bolts run
out after 5m. It is possible to step left in Anglopithicus if you
want, otherwise push on with wires, or abseil off.
SELLA - Sector Competicion - Page 109
SELLA - Sector Oja De Odra - Page 110
Sector
Odja de
Orda
Sector
Competicion
8
7
6
7
16
9
6
17
12
10
8
11
Sector Final
9
2
? Please help improve these
updates by amending this page
and returning a copy to ROCKFAX
5
3
4
1
Further up the hill is the famous hole. If you scramble up the back
of this hole you can get an amazing view of the Divino.
SECTOR OJO DE ODRA (Page 110)
3x 6a
SECTOR COMPETICION (Page 109)
8. Martxa d’Aci . . . . . . . . . . .
This is one of the show-piece areas of Sella with many long slab
climbs on perfect rock. There have been a few additions lately
and I have re-drawn the topo.
Great rock and a superb route.
The first routes are down and left of the main wall.
2x 6a+
2. Nido de Piratas . . . . . . . . .2x 6b
3. Y Tú ¿Quién Eres? . . . . . . .1x 6a
Polished.
1. El Gran Coscorron . . . . . . .
4. Desbloquéa que No . . . . . .
1x 5+
9. New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x5
5. Perietera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
10. Dingo Boingo . . . . . . . . .
6. The Wasp Factory . . . . . . .
2x 6a, 7a
A good first picth (worthwhile on its own) and a pumpy second.
3x 6c
An excellent line which is nicely sustained.
11. Pedro Estas Inspirado . . . . . .
x 8a
Not what you can to Spain for.
12. Sopa de Marsopa . . . . . .
2x 6b+
A long and technical route which is sutained from the 5th bolt all
the way to the top.
13. Odio los Domingos . . . . .
3x 6c+
Past the white rock scar.
Harder (6a) for the short.
The next two routes start from the big vegetated ramp and finish
high on the wall above.
5x 6b+
? route line on the topo
Gets tricky near the top.
14. Technocratas del Alpinismo
2x 6c
Technical climbing on side-pulls.
3x 6a+/6b
15. El Vuelo de la Maquina . . .
Some find this route hard, others find it okay - hence two grades.
7. Ratito de Gloria . . . . . . . .
A good first pitch worth doing on its own. The second pitch has a
very distinct crux move.
16. New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2x 6a, 6c
17. New
Around the corner and up the hill from Sector Competicion is a
steep end wall leading to a shorter section with an amazing hole
through it. Further right is another short wall which has seen
some recent development.
The first two routes are just around the corner from Sector
Competicion.
x 4+
. . . . . . . . .x 3+
1. Almorranas Salvajes . . . . . . . .
2. Alí Babá y los 40K
Further right the wall is stepper but the rock is a bit dodgy and
the bolts are well-spaced.
1x 7a+
3. Kamikaze . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Well named?
4. Seventh Samurai . . . . . . . .
1x 6c
Even more run-out.
The right-hand end of the wall has 2 new routes both of which
look to be in the ameanable grades.
9
14
13
1
2
13
4
3
15
11
12
5
14
10
5x 6a?
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5x 6a?
1x 6a
6. Roberto Alcázar y Merlin . .1x 6a+
A technical start followed by a long reach then some juggy
5. Fisura con Finura . . . . . . .
moves to the top.
x (6c)
7. Espíritu de Satur . . . . . . . . . . .
There are no bolts visible for this route. The line on the local topo
is just left of the cave.
8. Odja de Odra . . . . . . . . . .
1x 6c
Start in the hole and swing out of the left-hand side (looking in)
on sharp polished holes.
1x 6c+
9. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . .
The line of pockets right of the hole past a sling.
Right of the cave are five new routes. The grades in brackets are
approximations and no star ratings are known yet but the routes
aren’t classics.
? Grades Below
x (6b/c)
11. Mel de Roma . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a
12. Skid Row . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a
13. Los Remeros . . . . . . . . . . . .x (6c/7a)
14. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x (6a/b)
10. Els Nucliere . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SELLA - Sector Wild Side - Page 116 (NOTE - more additions since version 2 of this update)
Sella Wild Side
50m
2x 8b
12. La cratura . . . . . . . . . . .
Interesting despite 3 glued-on stones. The second bolt is
very high.
1x 7b+/7c+
13. Nido Amoroso . . . . . . . . .
The right-hand finish provides the easier 7b+ option. Chipped.
x?
14. Another line? . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pocketed wall left of route 10. Bottom half looks okay. Top half is
difficult to see. This line may not exist.
3x 8b
15. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . .
A stunning line up some vague tufas, all the way to the top.
8a+ to the first lower-off
25
x 7b
16. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
24
Short 7b route to first belay chain. A project (8b+) to the top.
23
3x 8a
22
17. Ergometria . . . . . . . . . . .
21
A mini Lourdes (see El Chorro) with a hard start followed by
pumpy moves up rounded tufas.
20
19
18
18. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
17
1x 8b+
5
14
13
19. Dosis . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
A very difficult line up the smooth overhanging wall. Chipped.
12
11
10
9
8
7
20. Cuestión de Estilo . . . . . .
6
3
2
1. Si te Dicen que Caí . . . . . .
1x 7a
1
6. La ola de Millau . . . . . . . .
3x 7c
This large and impressive overhanging wall is one of the steepest
crags in the area with some classic climbs up improbable tufas.
If you climb 7b or above, this is the best crag at Sella, and one of
the best in the Costa Blanca.
The prominent corner above where you arrive at the crag. Slink
rightwards at the top.
The tufa that forms the V-groove and follows the rising rightward
ramp just right of route of 7.
7. El pito el sereno . . . . . . . .
APPROACH
2. Todos los Caminos
Conducen al Rom . . . . . . . . .
A good route up the vague tufa/crack system.
There is a new land owner who owns the house that overlooks
the crag. You can no longer park as described in the guidebook.
Parking is only permissible on the main track/road. There is a
large 'No Entry' sign on the old track. The new owner is very
pleasant and is happy for people to climb but he doesn’t want
people to park on the track. PLEASE RESPECT THIS NEW
ARRANGEMENT.
Walk up the old track to a bend. Find an indistinct track through
some woods and scramble up an area of loose rock. Traverse a
section of rock and vegetation using a fixed rope to a ledge
below the wall.
2x 7b
x 7a+
3. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Blue streak and tufas left of Route 2. Poor.
3x 7c
A brilliant route with a bouldery start and a dynamic finish.
8. El Gerino . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3x 8a
Another excellent route. Climb past a long sling to a slot. Finish
9. Dimension diamente . . . . .
2x 7c+
Long and sustained, finishing up the vague left-facing corner.
up a left-facing corner. High in the grade.
5. La Forqueta del Diablo . . . .
2x 8a+
The line is marked by some double bolts with tats.
3x 7c+
A superb climb up the blue streak. The 7c+ grade is if you climb
direct, it is only 7b if you step right and use the right-hand bolt.
There is then a 50m gap past some blocky, but climbable looking
rock.
4. Celia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2x 8a+
Start just right of a corner ramp and climb up to the blank head10. Sweet ladie . . . . . . . . . .
wall. A strange start and a boulder problem finish.
x 8b+
11. Septembre . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tufas up to the roof and then over roof. Finish as for route 10.
10
2x 7c
A good route up a rightwards trending crackline with a distinct
crux move. Finish on the belay of the previous route. Eases
above.
Approach
scramble
SECTOR WILD SIDE
x Project
Outrageous wall right of Dosis (makes this route look easy).
16 15
21. Keep the Faith . . . . . . . .
2x 7c,7b
Follow the overhanging ramp line to a crux on smooth rounded
tufas and pockets.
1) 7c
2) 7b
5x 7b
22. New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Slanting crack and pockets. Join Route 15 to finish.
3x 7b+
23. Ya Somos Olímpicos . . . .
A brilliant route up overhanging tufas. Pitch 2 continues up the
corner in a spectacular situation. Can be lead in one mega 50m
pitch from the ground.
1) 7b+
2) 7a+
3x 8a+
24. Watermark . . . . . . . . . . .
A vague crack and tufa system up a big black wall which is led in
one enormous pitch. To the first lower-off is an excellent 8a.
x 7b
25. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tufa left of 17 to the same lower-off as the first part of
Watermark.
AGJUAS ROJAS
FORADA - South Face - Left - Page 160
Sector Petorri
Sector Descote
by Karen Yeow
Agujas Rojas is a small collection of pinnacles on a hilltop near the town of Onil in a picturesque woodland
setting. The orange and yellow coloured walls offer face climbing enthusiasts well-bolted climbs on good
quality rock. Most of the routes are in the high 6s and 7s with only 3 routes below 6a. The approach is
very easy and the crag could be a good one to combine with a visit to Reconco or just to enjoy a bit of
peace and quiet away from the crowds at Sella and Toix.
Confusing area - lots of bolts
ASPECT AND CLIMATE
Most of the crag faces west although the pinnacles can give shade if you find the right spots. The trees
also offer some shelter from the sun and wind however there is nothing to climb here in the rain.
12
13
11
16
14 15
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
North Face
Access passage
South Face
FORADA SOUTH FACE (page 160)
There has been a bit of development on this popular easier sector
and I have improved the topo slightly above.
SECTOR PETORRI
This is virtually at the highest point of the ridge.
x 3+
1. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
An easy new route. There is a bolt to the right which connects
this and the next route to give a better, and harder, variation.
? This could be a route in its own right.
2. Bon Dia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x5
Now bolted and with its own lower-off.
x4
3. Cursilania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The line of bolts curves rightwards.
x 6a+
8. Paula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+
Climb through a slanting groove.
7. ? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 5+
x 4/5
There seems to be some confusion over the next set of routes.
This area is way over-bolted and it appears that there are more
lines than listed below however when I checked it very carefully
(December 1998) I could only find one new line. It is obviously
very easy to stray from your chosen line.
x 6a
6. Noche Golfa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
11
Stone hut
Villena
Biar Reconco
A new line on the right of this wall.
? There may be another new line further right.
Salinas
Castalla
Salinas
Agujas Rojas
Onil
Peña Rubia
Cabreras
10. New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pink House
‘El Sucre’
Avda de
Castalla
Onil
50m to the right.
1nx 4,4+
A two pitch route on natural gear, up the corner and wall above.
oad
res R
Bane
Sax
SECTOR DESCOTE
x 6a
13. Freire sin Aceite . . . . . . . . . .x 6a
14. New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a+
15. Mujer Furtiva . . . . . . . . .1x 6a+
16. Cosme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+
Further right, past a corner.
1x 5
Map on
next page
Agujas Rojas
330
tinued to the shared lower-off.
The direct line is good.
To Madrid
The large flake/corner.
11. Caballari . . . . . . . . .
5. Pilar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SAX
AREA
9. Tiburón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 5+
There is a lower-off at the bend in the route but originally it con4. Fam de Gos . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
APPROACH
Agujas Rojas is best reached from the motorway and not via the twisting mountain roads (this has been
tested and there is almost 20 minutes in it from Calpe to the crag). From Alicante, drive towards Madrid on
the N330 (a free dual carriageway). Turn off this at the second junction signed to 'Sax'. Follow this road
towards 'Castalla' but keep left towards 'Onil'. At a complex junction under a dual carriageway, continue
straight past two small roundabouts. Reconco is up on the left. Keep going into Onil until you arrive at a
traffic circle (the mountain road arrives at this point from the right). Go straight on here onto Matrimonio
Mira Garcia (at an arrow pointing towards ‘Baneras’ and ‘Alcoi’). This road turns into the Baneras Road follow it for 2.5km past a traffic circle until you reach a fork in the road. Take the left fork and continue for
about 2km, past a pink house (‘El Sucre’) on the left. The crags are visible as a series of tawny coloured
faces uphill from the road. Park at a small gravelled shoulder off the road, within sight of the crag, just
before a ruined stone hut. You’ve gone too far if you drive past a stone wall on your right. There are several paths leading from the road up through the woods to the crags.
Forada
Elda
From
Reconco and
the motorway
Petrer
Monovar
Matrimonio
Mira Garcia
12. Marisol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
330
From Alicante
10km
CV 815
Ibi
AGUJAS ROJAS
AGUJAS ROJAS
Sector La Hiedra
SECTOR MEDIA VUELTA
The pinnacle in front of Sector La Hiedra has three lines on it.
7. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . . .
x?
Sector La Hiedra
38
27
Sector El Corredor
The back of the pinnacle.
37
8. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . . .
6
x 6c
28
21
29
10
The central line.
Sector la Esfinge
36
7
9. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . . .
x?
The right-hand line.
Sector a
la Sombre
9
1
8
30
35
31
16
32
SECTOR EL CORREDOR
Sector Media Vuelta
25
2
3
4
x 7b
11. Nit de Bruixes . . . . . . . . .1x 7b+
12. My Gym . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 7b+
Start under a pocket.
6
5
SECTOR LA HIEDRA
The crag is about 10m high and is situated about 10m above the
track. It gives a small set of steep blobby routes with powerful
moves and strange holds.
Aspect - The crag is in the shade until late in the afternoon.
23
22
Sector Tocho Pinchoso
2x 7a+
13. L’Babao . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The thin, intermittent crack.
M
1x 6b
2. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . . .x (7 ?)
3. Jumpin’ Jack Flash . . . . . . . . .x 7c+
Up a slightly overhanging arete.
x 7a
5. Jack El Destrepador . . . . . .1x 7c+
An overhanging face climb with small shallow pockets.
4. Niu de Aranyes . . . . . . . . . . . .
2x 8a
6. Lagramusa . . . . . . . . . . . .
1x 7b+
1x 7c
16. Mentireta . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 6a+
17. Los Taruges . . . . . . . . . .1x 6b
18. Un 6b I si no Tambe . . . .2x 7a+
19. Turbo Diesel . . . . . . . . .2x 7a
20. Hay Btuneta . . . . . . . . . .2x 7c+
21. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . .x (7 ?)
15. Mama Chico . . . . . . . . . .
Sector El Corredor - Right
SECTOR LA ESFINGE
SECTOR TOCHO PINCHOSO
x 7a+
23. Cipriano Toca el Piano . . . . . .x 6c
24. Hay Madonna . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a+
22. Marabu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SECTOR A LA SOMBRE
x 6a
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a+
25. Fumador No . . . . . . . . . . . . .
26. Crus
13
14
16
15
17
18
20
Sector El Corredor - Left
12
19
21
x?
28. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . .x ?
29. A la Sombre . . . . . . . . . .1x 6a
30. Clip-clap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 7b
31. Rompe Techos . . . . . . . .1x 7b
32. Escupe Cubatas . . . . . . . .1x 6b+
33. La Tufona . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 7b
34. Besuga . . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 7c+
35. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . .x 6c+
36. Gonso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4+
37. Rufo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+
38. Pequenecos . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4+
27. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . .
12
ad
ro
The thin winding crack.
1. El Raco . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
11
n
ai
14. Chip-chop . . . . . . . . . . .
The routes are described from left to right.
10
34
24
10. Edu el Travieso . . . . . . . . . . .
1
33
26
Fax07 - COSTA BLANCA
UPDATE
Version 3 - 21 March 2000
CONTENTS
ACCESS PROBLEMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
GENERAL CORRECTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Page by page listing of amendments
GANDIA SECTOR FINAL TOPO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
GANDIA SECTOR LA CUEVA TOPO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
TOIX TV and OESTE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
ACCESS PROBLEMS
Page 24 - Gandia Access.
The land owners (of the area below the crag) have erected No Entry/Private Property signs on the
approach to Gandia. It is not clear if this refers to the path through the orchard or the whole crag in general. The people who supplied this information managed to reach the crag using another path but please be
aware that there may be a problem developing here. ; I have since heard that the old path is still functioning.
; Page 57 - Olta Access.
A new sign has been added which effectively bans access to the track up to the crag. The track has also
deteriorated dramatically and is now very hard going. Effectively you now need to park at the station and
walk up to the crag which is a bloody long way - 45 minutes or so.
Page 77 - Mascarat Parking.
Construction work is taking place all over Pueblo Mascarat. Large kerbs have been laid on both sides of
the road near the parking area by the bridge for the gorge routes making it impossible to get off the road
(even in a hire car!). The alternative is to either continue along the parking place for the sea cliffs and walk
back or, drive towards Pueblo Mascarat and bear right down a rough track towards the beach. Just before
the beach double back to the right on to a track which can be followed back up the gorge to the road
bridge (unless heavy rain is forecast!). NOTE: it looks like they could be building villas all over this area so
get the routes done now while you can still reach them.
21 new routes at Toix TV. Topo for Toix Oeste Lower
PENON d’IFACH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Two big routes on the Penon including New Dimensions.
NEW SELLA TOPOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Sector Marion, Sector Competicion and Sector Odja de Odra redrawn with ten new routes.
Page 116 - Sella Sector Wild Side Parking.
See the new topo on page 10.
Page 131 - Pena Rubia Approach.
A fancy gate has been constructed on the approach to this crag (at the point where the roads become
wide on the map) which is closed for access. There is apparently a way around the gate to the left on a
dirt track but how long this will be possible is uncertain
SELLA SECTOR WILD SIDE TOPO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
FORADA SOUTH FACE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Sector Petorri and Descote redrawn.
AGUJAS ROJAS by Karen Yeow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Full topos and approach details for this crag.
BLUE TEXT - Further information at the end of document
; RED TEXT - Additions since Version 2 update on 15/12/99
? GREEN TEXT - This appears where we are short of information. Please amend copies and send back
details like route lines and grades where you see the green question mark.
1
Thanks to the following who have all contributed to this information:
Johnny Adams, Karen Yeow, Kevin Davey, Steve Anthony, Neil Foster, Richard Sewards, Dave
Douglas, Richard Fox, Ian Henderson, Dave Musgrove, Filpini Frank, Bridget and Jeremy ?, Andreas
Polster, John Zangwill, Chris Heald, Philippa Poland, John Smith, Chris Gore, Nick Easton, Paul Green,
Lisa Curry, David Chadwick, Howard Jones, Guy Maddox, Stuart Greenall, Carl Dawson, Sebastian
Schwertner, Sami Salonen, Stefan Ringmann, John Tombs, Craig Smith, Molly Heitz, Jane Grundy,
Lewis Grundy, Andy Jones, Dave Ranby, Paul Brooks, Simon Brown, Nick Longland, Jon Read, Roger
Everett, Steve Swygart, Alan Cameron-Duff, Simon Jinks, Andrew Roberts, Rick Kruze, Giles Stone,
John Cardy, Iain Mann, Mark Bull, Chris Sims, Jon Pearson, Mandy Payne, Tim Seaborne, Bob
Bennett, Rowland Edwards, Don Roscoe, Martin Crocker, John Harwood, Karen Beattie, Bill Pattison,
Doug Reid, Martin Cooper, Steve Green. Sorry to anyone I have missed off.
GENERAL CORRECTIONS
Page 25 - Gandia - Approach.
It is better to mention Albaida instead of Alimones
on the approach turnings since there are more
signs to Albiada.
Page 28 - Gandia - Sector Vici.
Route 3 - Gora ETA and Route 3 - Nina de
Porcelana need switching however Nina still traverses left to the lower-off on Fissure Tal...
Page 29 - Gandia - Sector Fundicio.
Route 21 is only 6c+.
Page 30 - Gandia - Sector Final new topo.
See page 5.
Page 32 - Gandia - Upper Section.
The line marked on the topo left of Route 9 is now
a route. Grade unknown.
Route 9 - Cellas Cortos is probably 6b but it is also
worth three stars.
New route - Route 16a is a worthwhile 6a.
Route 17 - Kamari is worth two stars.
Gandia - Sector La Cueva topo.
See page 6.
Page 34 - Salem - Approach.
The correct road from the Gandia ring road is the
first turn off, not the second as it says in the text.
The road number is CV60.
Also - the note about bolts being removed from
Sector Estival is now incorrect since some have
been added recently to the bold lower moves.
Page 37 - Salem - Sector Frigorific.
Several people have commented that if you come
to Salem and just sample the routes on this sector
then you will think this is a poor crag. The hot tip is
to try the routes on Bon I Temps or Complicacions
first despite the temptaion of Frigorific being so
close to the car.
Hay No Billettes has its own lower-off slightly leftwards and over the top of the crag.
2
Page 39 - Salem - Sector Sol i Bon Temps.
; The cave by Route 1 - Akelarre now has three
new routes all with bright red bolts. They look good
on steep tufas, probably all in the upper 7s.
; Route 7 is worth high 6b.
Route 15 has a hard start but is easy above - only
worth 6c.
Route 16 is probably worth 7b and has a desperate third clip.
; Route 17 is hard for 6a+ and is only 1 star.
Page 45 - Aventador - Approach.
The approach description on this page is a bit of a
mess. Use the Gandia approach and follow signs
towards Albiada, on the CV610, off the ring road.
Then pick up the description at "After 12km ...."
The C322 has changed number to the CV612.
Page 47 - Aventador - Sector Caruso.
The routes just to the right of the cave are a bit
stiff for their grades. This could be due to them
being a bit steeper than the routes further right.
There is also some confusion about lines here
which may be caused by the word 'Astolfo' being
painted on the rock underneath the wrong route
according to the guidebook.
Page 49 - Sector Navarro.
Route 52 - Pase Millions is poor and probably
harder than 6b.
Page 51 - Jalón Valley - Alcalali.
; There is a long new line well to the left of the
main crag which is probably around 6a+.
Route 2 is an excellent sustained route with a fingery finish - low 7b+. Route 4 is probably 7b if you
climb straight up the tufa. A good 7a+ variation follows the wall on the right of the mid-height tufa.
Page 52 - Jalón Valley - Lliber - Left.
You can now drive all the way to the olive grove.
There is a new pipeline which will hopefully have
put and end to the random floods down the water
channel. Route 6 - Agarrate como Puedas is a 7a
dyno but is probably impossible for shorties. This
move is also used to start Route 5.
Page 53 - Jalón Valley - Lliber - Right.
Route 5 - La Bella is worth 7b and probably even
harder for shorties.
Page 55 - L’Ocaive.
There is an un-named pleasent, fully bolted chimney/groove immediately left of Route 6, Aluncia
con la esquina. - 4+.
Page 58 - Olta.
; SEE ACCESS PROBLEM ON PAGE 1.
There are four new routes at this crag. Tao is the
crack left of Wings of Freedom - grade unknown
but not that hard.
Mulan is the wall left of Tai Chi - fingery 7a+.
Das Buch der Sringe is left of Turron - grade 4 but
possibly harder (6a) if you go too far left.
Breakthrough is right of Christmas Dreams - 4
Some of these grade 4s at Olta are thought to be
a bit stiff by many climbers.
; In Winter the sun goes off this crag in the early
afternoon.
Page 60 - Penon South Face Comment.
Several people have pointed out that the estimated
time of four hour for an ascent is a bit optimistic.
Allow 6 hours for most parties especially on UBSA
and Valencianos.
Page 61 - Penon North Face Access.
There is a notice at the environment centre which
prohibits climbing on the north and north-west
walls during April, May and June. This affects
routes 1 to 3 on page 61. It is not clear if the MaySeptember ban given in the guide is still correct.
Page 61 - Penon North Face.
The route Pany has suffered a major rock-fall which
has left a lot of loose rubble on it. A massive area of
rock has fallen from the right of the corner of pitch 4
scattering debris, earth and torn up bushes over all
of the easy angle section below. The section covered in rubbish is dangerous and unpleasent and
the described pitch 4 looks very unsafe. Instead of
traversing left on pitch 3 into the remains of the corner, climb straight up the pleasant wall at the start of
the traverse to rejoin the route where it comes back
right, just after the stance at the top of pitch 4. This
wall is about Spanish grade 4+/5 and reasonably
well protected with nuts.
Page 63 - Penon South Face - Valencianos.
I have received enough comments to make me
think that this route is a bit undergraded in the
Rockfax. Chris Craggs probably has it about right
with pitch grades as follows - 3, 3, 5+, 4, 4, 4 then
two easy climb-out pitches.
To reduce stone fall risk you may want to take the
following option for the first two pitches:
1) 35m. Climb first rightwards and then back left to
a slab. Belay on the left on bolts. (ie. out of the
way of stonefall in the corner).
2) 40m. Move up left past bushes to gain a ledge
running back right above the slab. Then easily up into
an earthy corner and ledge. Bolt belay on left wall.
3) Climb the blocky corner...........etc.
Page 63 - Penon South Face - New Route.s
Full descriptions for two big routes including a topo
for the amazing New Dimensions - page 8.
; Page 65 - Gomez Cano.
This route is a big mountain route and if you
attempt it don’t expect clean rock and perfect
bolts. Also take a lot of water with you and allow a
more than four hours unless you are a super-fast
team. A few additional points to mention:
1) the more accurate grades are given with the
text rather than in the route title although the last
pitch is probably worth 6a+.
2) the 7b/A1 pitch is a bolt ladder not a one-move
quick pull hence a sling for an foot stirrup is useful.
3) the ‘small bay’ on pitch 4 has been described as
a “sloping shale beach” by one ascensionist, with
lots of loose rock.
4) Belay above the chimney on pitch 8 to reduce
rope-drag.
Page 65 - Diedro UBSA.
Some find pitch 4 the crux of the whole route so
maybe at least 5+ is warranted.
The abseil on pitch 8 is nearer 8m than 20m but
also note that you need to swing some distance to
the left (looking in) to reach the twin bolt belay.
; Page 69 - Toix Este.
Route 11 - Winter is 35m long so take care when
lowering off.
Route 13 is called Spolli and is marked by red
splodges.
Route 29 is only 7c and involves some slate-like
slab climbing.
Route 1 - Amarilla has had its bolts chopped on
pitch 2.
Route 11 - The Blue Route actually goes leftwards
through the top bulge in a good podition.
Route 13 (to the right of Dire Straits) is a good fully
bolted grade 4, 3+. Pitch 2 might be 4+ if you follow it to the upper double bolts and don’t lower-off
the single. Both pitches are 30m. Make 2 abseils
to descend.
There is a route between Routes 16 and 17,
Renov 5- is painted on the rock. Pitch 1 is up a
broken groove. Pitch 2 is up the slab above, traversing to lower-off bolts on 13. The grade is more
like 4, 4+.
Route 19 has its own lower-off.
See also new routes on Toix TV Lower - page 7.
Page 72 - Toix West - Lower.
See page 7 for a topo
Page 75 - Toix TV - Lower Wall and First Wall
See page 7 for many new routes.
Page 78 - Toix Sea Cliffs - Candelabra....
Roland’s Magical Mystery Tour is possibly a bit
easier than 5 but you may need to add a bit for the
situation. The belay at the end of pitch 2 has been
moved down so the description for pitch 3 should
be - "Move right and climb a rib..." instead of left.
Pitches are about 10m, 15m, 30m. There are ENP
placements on the belays at the end of pitches 1
and 2. These require a Rock 2 or similar.
; Candelabra del Sol can be climbed in one long
pitch. It is a superb route but the most amazing
thing is that it is in fact 7b+ and not 8a as claimed.
Page 79 - Toix Sea Cliffs.
There is a bolted line up the line of the 50m abseil.
Slabby start steepening to a hard crux move, with
a fair amount of rope-drag, to reach the abseil
ledge. El Dorado 1.5 is almost certainly closer to
the real line of El Dorado 2. The following combination gives the best pitches.
1) 6a Follow the dots of Route 9 to belay in the
crack (between the two belays marked).
2) 6b Climb the crack and amazingly featured wall
above to a sloping ledge with a bolt belay way
back up left. Take lots of slings for the threads on
pitch 2. The line out right is an escape pitch with a
fair amount of loose rock and hardly any fixed
gear.
; Page 80 - Via UPSA.
In general the route is easy to follow as long as
you look out for the bolts-without-hangers. A full
rack is definitely needed to back up some of the
belays. 2 to 3 stars is correct for an alpine-style
route, but considering there's no reliable gear left,
it might be tough going for beginners.
Here is an improved description.
1) 3 40m. Follow the easiest line up the pillar to
belays under steeper rock.
2) 4 35m. Follow the cracked rib above the belay
to where the ridge levels out
3) 2 35m. Scramble easily up the ridge to grassy
terrace. Walk along terrace to peg belay at foot of
upper wall, below and L of a groove.
4) 4+ 40m. Climb up and right to the foot of the
groove, and climb it for 2-3m before pulling round
onto the right edge (bolt). Follow a line of
cracks up the wall to threads (poss belay), and traverse right to peg and thread belay.
5) 5+ 35m. Climb the polished groove (old pegs,
one new bolt) and continue in the same line to
belay (threads, old bolt).
6) 4+ 30m. Climb the wall above and left of the
belay, then trend rightwards (pegs - optional bolt
belay down and right) to the arete. Go round
the arete and traverse right to exposed stance.
7) 4 35m. Continue traversing right to a groove climb this and slabs above to the top.
; Descent for Via UPSA If you continue to the
top there are two more excellent easy pitches, a
super scramble and a lovely ridge walk across the
top. To descend you have to traverse the whole
ridge until you reach a villa building site, descend
through this then traverse back across the
mountain to the normal descent gully. Instead of
going down the normal descent gully, keep to the
south of it and follow the bounding ridge and
scramble down the hillside to join the road by the
first tunnel entrance on the approach from Altea.
Page 82 - Mascarat.
Terminar has been re-bolted (for the first 3 pitches
at least) and you don’t need a rack for these. You
can descend down the back of the hill through the
tunnel from this point.
Gede is now fully bolted apart from the easy last
pitch (take a few wires) and is very worthwhile.
Pitches 2 and 3 are longer and better than suggested in the guide and pitch 4 is the crux pitch at
probably 6a "an overhanging soapy flake" although
it can be easily aided if necessary.
; Page 83 - Mascarat.
Aurora pitch 4 is probably worth 6a. The optional
finish (shared with Montesinos) is loose and above
the road.
Page 87 - Altea.
Route 6 - Green, is harder possibly 6b+.
; Route 7 - Yellow, is only 5+.
The approach to this crag is now fully tarmaced.
Apartments are now being built opposite the crag.
You will struggle to lower-off routes 6 to 10 with a
60m rope so please take great care. Abseil if in
doubt.
Page 88 - Altea Col.
Route 5 - Entre dos tierras is more like 7a or 7b for
the hideous start.
Route 6 - Walking on the Milkyway is 6c for the
start, 6a+ above.
Route 7 - Salva Mea is still a project. Apologies to
Jens Muenchberg for describing it as a route. It will
be harder than 7c.
Page 91 - Echo Placa.
General comments. The crag is in a superb location but the routes are big trad routes so expect
loose rock, long approach thrashes and tricky
descents.
Clearer Approach Description - From junction 65
on the A7 (by the Mammoth supermarket) take the
Callosa - Polop road northwards. In the centre of
Polop turn leftwards towards Guadalest. Follow
this uphill for 4.5km (500m after the 4km milepost)
and turn left onto a dirt track. Follow this track for
3.8km (this can be done in a car if it hasn't rained
recently) to a white building where the track starts
to descend. There is a chained off track on the
right; park here if you are still in your car. Walk up
this for 1.5km until you are below the wall. Route
Notes. Large Friends needed for pitch 5 of Luna
Sombre.
Here are some comments on The Forth Addition
"The rock is worrying, the climbing is poor and the
approach and finishing sections are awful. It is
also unbalanced, with the crux pitch being much
harder than graded. Definitely one to miss, we'd
have been better off going for a walk". - Roger
Everett
; Page 94 - Puig Campana Approach.
The road into Finestrat is for residents only.
Instead follow the main road around the village
and then turn right before turning left into the road
for Font de Moli. This by-pass road isn’t marked on
the map on page 94 but it is the obvious way and
also the way you drive towards Sella.
Page 95 - Espolon Central - Descent.
The descent route from Espolon Central is now
rigged with wire cable, via ferrata fashion, on some
(but not all) of the harder and more exposed
moves.
Improved description for Espolon Central - Direct
Start ? I don’t quite follow this description so if
anyone can supply a better one then please do.
One thing is clear and that is that it joins the normal route after 3 pitches and not 5 as in the book.
1) 3 35m. Start to the left of the flat oval area of
rock. Climb a ramp up left.
2) 4+ 35m. Climb left across the groove and up
the arete to a ledge.
3) 4 25m. Move up and right to join the original
route at a big ledge coming from the left.
3
Improved description for The Edwards Finish
1) Scramble onto the tower in front of the main
face.
2) 4 25m. Climb over the tower until a second, one
comes into view and go around that on the left to
the col between the main face and the towers.
3) 4+ 25m. Climb up the slab on the main face
moving right to a flatish plateau at its top. After
scampering up the plateau for 15m
4) 4+ 25m. Directly climb the wall to the top, trending leftwards slightly at the top to reach a tree.
The rib leads to the top.
Another alternative finish:
From the finish of Espolon Central, scramble up to
a narrow ridge with massive drops on the south
side. Follow the ridge (exposed in places) to about
10m in front of a large tower in front of the main
face. Easier variations are usually available on the
north side of the ridge to this point.
The Fewell Finish
1) 50m. Climb across the ridge to the tower then
skirt it on the left (north) into a gully, climb
to gully to the col.
2) 30m. Stand on top of the boulders on the col
and climb rightwards across a steep slab to
a vegetated ledge. Now climb the rib on the left of
the vegetation and on the right of the blank
face. This leads to a good ledge with a solid thread
at its centre.
3) 35m. Climb up into a depression above the right
hand side of the ledge then traverse
rightwards to a point below a flake crack. Climb
straight up via the flake crack to a good ledge
with a solid thread just above head height.
4) 50m. Escape from the right-hand side of the
ledge, when faced with a choice of going right
or left go left and scramble up to the area of trees.
Descent - Continue over the top (ignore a cairn
down to the right (seaward side)). Then
scramble down into the square-cut col which is the
distinctive feature of this mountain’s profile.
The path from here is vague, there are some small
cairns occasionally which help. From the
northern end of the col scramble down steeply to
the right (towards the sea). All being well you
will find an abseil anchor at the top of a via ferrata.
One 25m abseil is required. Now contour
round to the north and drop down a gully to the
main descent gully. Boots or hard soled crag
approach shoes strongly recommended for the
descent of this horrible scree gully.
Page 98 - Aguja Encantada - El Diamante.
The alternative 7a start to El Diamante is sparsely
bolted - gear is needed. The normal first pitch is
about 50m rather than 30m, and it is best to split it
to avoid drag. It is also poor and vegetated.
Page 105 - Sella - Culo de Rino - Right.
There are two new routes between Route 2 - Los
Refugiados and Route 3 - Via del Indio.
Left Diestra Siniestra - 5 and right Y Golpe de
Porrazo - 5. Diestra Siniestra starts where Los
Refugiados is marked on the topo and is hard for
5.
Page 107 - Sella - Techo del Rino.
New first pitch to Cardo Borriquero up the crack
between routes 8 and 10. One report of 6a and
another of 6b, let's call it 6a+.
NOTE you can't reach the ground from the top of
Cardi Borriquero on a 60m rope.
New route right of Route 13 - No Me Bajes:
El Torronet - 6a, worth 2 stars.
Page 108 - Sella - Sector Marion.
Page 109 - Sella - Sector Competition.
Page 110 - Sella - Sector Oja de Orda.
Page 112 and 113 - Sella - Pared de Rosalia.
There has been some activity up here even since
the new topo in Edition 2 so prepare to be a bit
confused. Only brief details are known.
There is a new route/start right of Route 6.
Routes 10/11 have an upper pitch.
The lone line through holes between Route 12 and
13 is now bolted and looks excellent.
Route 14 must be the longest pitch around since it
virtually reaches the top of the crag in one.
Route 17a is a good 7a up the wall left of the
groove.
Route 18 has a very hard move on it (harder than
a 7b+ on Sector Techo according to my source).
Route 18a is a good 6c+.
; Route 23 - Mujer Lamprea is a superb, fully
bolted mega route which is worth adding to your
tick list.
4
Page 116 - Sella - Sector Wild Side.
Page 117 - Sella - Outlying.
Just before the Second Edition went to the printers
someone who had climbed these routes told me
that they were very hard and sharp and not worth
three stars.
Page 118 - Top approach to the Divino.
Someone has said that all the distances quoted in
the approach description should be 0.4km less. It
may be that the 2 people who measured it for me
started at points 400m apart. ie. If there is no dirt
track at 4km, turn right at 4.4km.
Page 119 - Sella - El Elephante.
This impressive crag is worth a visit if you lead 6c
or above. The routes are curiously geared so take
a rack with you. Once on them, they give can
superb and intricate climbing.
The Naked Edge can be done on one 60m rope
and gives an immaculate sustained pitch. Once at
the top belay, pull your rope through, drop an end
and pull up another rope to abseil off on. This is
better than splitting it since the belay is poor and
the second section is more than 30m anyway.
Split Gran Fisura at the (in-place) half-height belay
since it is at least 60m.
Route 8 - Project is a good 7a+ wall climb to the
first lower-off.
Route 5 - Edwards Wall, is only 7b to the first
lower-off.
Route 2 - Scorpion is better split at what is
described as the mini lower-off, and not at the
higher stance.
Page 121 - The Divino - Sector Pertemba.
I have had several comments about this route, few
of them complimentary.
"Pitch 2 is good, the rest is choss".
The belay after P3 is reputedly very dangerous
with much loose rock perched above it. One person has commented that you can abseil down
Espolón Pertemba but you need 2 long ropes and
some tape to leave behind on some of the
stances. Another person has commented that
there are no pinnacles or flakes on pitch 4. Their
alternative description is "press on up the slabs,
slightly leftwards".
Page 121 - Techo Placa.
The start of Voyages is unstable and 6c+. Wires
are required for start of the route Techo Placa.
; Page 126 - Alcoy
Route 3 is worth a star and 6a.
Route 4 is worth 6a+.
Route 5 is worth a star and 6a+.
Routes 7 and 8 may well have been de-bolted or
never have been there in the first place.
Route 12 is probably worth 6a+.
Route 13 is very hard - 7b at least!
Route 17 is also very hard (7b or more) and there
is no photo any more.
Routes 31 to 35 hace high first bolts.
; Page 129 - Reconco Approach
It may be possible now to approach the crag via
the second track.
; Page 130 - Reconco.
The extra routes mentioned on page 130 are well
worth seeking out. They are on a small buttress
down and right from the main face at Reconco (?
more accurate approach details needed). The wall
is well sheltered which is useful if you are getting
blown off Reconco.
There are six routes;
1) 7a, 2) 6b+, 3) 6b+/6c, 4) 6b+, 5) 6a+, 6) 6a+
Crag Near Reconco - Agjuas Rojas
Full details on page 11.
; Page 136 - Cabreras - Approach.
Both sets of traffic lights you encounter in Sax,
after leaving the motorway, are now roundabouts.
The junction for Sax in the description is the first
junction on the motorway.
Alternative approach avoiding the town
At first roundabout (marked as traffic lights in the
guide) turn right. Continue along passing below the
Fort up on left. Take the next left (signed El Plano).
Follow this road for approx 400m then turn
right onto narrow lane (again signed El Plano).
From here, continue along a narrow road past the
white house ... as in the book.
; Page 138 - Cabreras - Penas Del Rey.
There is a new top pitch between the upper lines
10 and 11 at 6a.
Page 145 - Salinas - Approach.
As described for Cabreras, both sets of traffic
lights in Sax are now roundabouts. You need to
turn left at the first - the sign to Salinas is not obvious - and drive straight on at the second.
Page 146 - Salinas - Sector Final.
Route 10 - Donde Dices que Vas is probably more
like 6a+.
Page 147 - Salinas - Sector La Higuera.
Route 4 - Babieca is soft touch at 7b+, more like
7b.
Page 149 - Salinas - Sector Picara Viborita Left.
; Route 6 - Ponsela is worth 6a and should be
climbed direct up the scoop.
Amonite doesn't have a hard start and is probably
only 5+, it is Ali Baba ... (route 12) which has a
hard start - possibly 6b.
; Page 150 - Salinas - Sector Picara Viborita
Right.
Route 25 has a new lower-off up and left but the
original finish is still the best.
Page 156 - Forada - Sector Super Heroes.
Route 1 left of Tundra is an immense and endless
route of 8-something difficulty.
The bolt left of Batman now has a route, grade
unknown.
Clipping the 4th bolt on Batman is a bit of a challenge.
Route - 5 has now been climbed at a dodgysounding 8a+. It is brilliant of course.
There is a silly created route/project up the bulging
right-hand side of the through cave on the left of
Sector Elecciones.
Page 157 - Forada - Sector Elecciones.
Route 6 - Abstencíon is only 6b+ and Route 7 - La
Fuerza del Parabol is only 6a+.
Page 161 - Forada - South Face.
DO NOT USE THE THROUGH TUNNEL TO
ACCESS THE SOUTH FACE, WALK AROUND
THE BOTTOM.
This is an excellent crag and is very much worth
considering even if you don't climb that hard since
several people have reported having good days
while climbing exclusively on the sunny south face.
The only consideration here is that it isn't too hot.
The views from the crag are wonderful.
Page 161 - Forada - South Face - Sector Petorri
and Descote
GANDIA - Sector Final - Page 30
4
4a
5
1
2
3
4. Tercer Left
GANDIA SECTOR FINAL
6
7
8
9 10
11
1x 7b
...........
There are a few confusing anomalies on this sector which have
hopefully now been cleared up with help from Carl Dawson. One
of the problems seem to be in the route names which are different across the local topo, the Rockfax and Chris Craggs guide. I
have stuck with the route names and numbers as per both editions of Fax07 but some of the lines have changed and there are
three new routes.
Climb the orange wall past a hard move then take the left-hand
branch.
The first route is up the left-hand side of a long narrow wall.
Superb, intricate climbing with a big finish.
1. Maqui Popeye y la Sirla . . . . . .
x 6b
1x 7b
4a. Tercer Right . . . . . . . . . .
The right-hand branch.
5. Muluk el Tarqui . . . . . . . . .
3x 7a+
1x 7b
Given 7c+ before. Shares start with route 5.
2. Donde Hostias ... . . . . . . .No Bolts
7. Botoia Sakatu . . . . . . . . . . . .
It was a good 6c wall climb..
1fx 6b
3. Juputa . . . . . . . . . . . .
A steep start but the crux pulls are on the thin grey wall right of
the upper corner.
x 7c/7c+?
Start left of the recess.
3x 7c
8. Enya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Steep fingery wall right of the big flake.
2x 7b
9. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . .
Excellent route which is hard to on-sight if you don't find the hidden hold.
1x 7b
10. "Twin Bolts" . . . . . . . . . .
Harder than 7a+.
5
16
13
14
17
17a
17b
18
15
The main feature of this wall is the magnificent elephant's trunk
tufa. The next route is just to the left of this.
11. Dos Super Carrozas . . . . .
3x 7a
Brilliant moves past a heart-shaped hole and onto the trunk.
Eases above. DON'T see the photo on the inside back cover 'cos
it ain't there anymore.
12. Don Diego . . . . . . . . . . .
6. Sugar Glass . . . . . . . . . . .
Start by a block.
12
3x 7a
Another great route with a steep start which is okay if you don't
think about it too much.
13. Jaque Mate . . . . . . . . . .
3x 7a+
A powerful start and a bit of a tricky finish, if you are pumped,
which you probably will be.
1x 7a+
14. Solta el Mos . . . . . . . . . .
Less steep but has a (chipped) fingery finish.
x 8a?
15. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hard and fingery with a blank section. Known as Jaque Mate
elsewhere.
2x 7a
16. Groceries . . . . . . . . . . . .
An excellent quick and pumpy pitch.
2x 6c+
17. A Mano . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Much pumpier than it looks. Possibly 7a.
x 7a/b?
17a. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The left-hand line out of the cave.
x 7a+
17b. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The steep central line has one hard move to leave the glued flake.
18. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6c+
Very poor.
GANDIA - SECTOR LA CUEVA
Gandia - Sector La Cueva
Topo by Alan Cameron-Duff
More bolts
to high
lower off
P
10
11
12
12
13
8
6
13
11
7
15
14
9
10
?
P
16
17
18
?
15
See enlarged topo
P
P
3
4
5
2
1
SECTOR LA CUEVA
This cave gives some superb hard routes which should make the
Costa Blanca more attractive to climbers operating in the upper
grades. The climbing is as impressive as that found at crags like
Fraguel and Las Perchas in Mallorca, or Volx in France. It faces
east and is well sheltered.
APPROACH - Drive to Gandía as described above. Continue past
the turning for the crag for 900m then turn left (signed 'Bar
Carril'). Drive on for another 900m and turn left again at a small
bike sign. Drive down here for about 450m to the second turning
on the left (which is a tarmac-ed road just past a green gate).
Take this and drive to the end of the road. Park leaving room for
cars to turn. Follow the path across a slope and back left to reach
the crag (5 mins).
Long aid sling
The first route is up a grey rib on the left-hand end of the crag.
1. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1x 6b+
1x 7a+
Broccoli wall leadin to steep bulge. Good but untravelled and a
touch friable. Locally given 6c.
2x 7a
3. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Just right of small cave. Hard start up bulging wall then easier rib
above.
1x 6a+
4. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wall behind trees. Good climbing with nice finish.
5. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1x 6b
Another good grey wall.
Gandia
Main Crag
Junction
signed
‘Barx’
The next lines are three very impressive projects.
3x 7c+
6. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Start up the block to the right and traverse left, crossing the next
route.
Sector La Cueva
3x 8a+
7. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sign ‘Bar Carril”
Direct through the lower bulge.
N332
GANDIA
8. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3x 7c
A direct finish to route 6.
‘Private’
3x 7c+
9. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
‘Bike’ sign
A7
P
17
Wall
From road
Reasonable little rib at far left-hand side of crag.
2. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
16
14
12
The long wall starting up the block.
The main cave routes are so steep that they get hardly any sun.
The routes are also very complex and the roof has several pocket
lines which cross each other. All of these are bolted and most
have been climbed but where the actual intended route lines are
is unclear. The lines on the two topos here are as taken from the
local topo however there are several lines of bolts which don't fit
onto their topo. The cave itself is only of interest to people who
lead 7c+ and above. Route 17, the 7a+, is easy to find.
3x 8c+
11. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3x 7c+
12. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3x 7c+
13. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 8a
14. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3x 8a
15. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 8a
The lower path is 8c+!
10. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2x 8b
17. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 7a+
Good long route with a tricky lower section. Loose in middle.
16. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x (6a)
18. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Scrappy route up grey slab right of cave.
6
Further right is a high bulge with yet another impressive project.
? Please help
improve these
updates by amending this page and
returning a copy to
ROCKFAX
TOIX WEST and TV - New Routes - Pages 73 and 75
- Thread
Toix TV - Lower Wall - now called Toix Placa
40m
40m
All these lines are approximate
(Page 73)
More new stuff up here. All the
names are painted on the rock.
22
20
14
13
11
12
15 16
17
18
21
A lot of routes here.
They may be in the
wrong order
10
3
1
2
8
7
7 and 8 might not be
in the correct order
TOIX TV LOWER now TOIX PLACA (Page 75)
Jens Muenchberg has been busy here and has added a lot of new
routes. A consequence of extending the routes down the hill
towards Toix Oeste is that many people are now approaching it
from below since it is almost a continuation of the routes on
page 71. This is probably also a quicker approach.
NOTE - the new bolts are good resin bolts but many only have
single bolt lower-offs.
I haven’t got many route lines for the above and would appreciate someone marking them on this topo (or better - drawing
a new one) and sending it back. Also we have no star ratings please feel free to add them.
The routes have now been described from right to left.
x 4+
2. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5
3. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . .nx 6a+
4. Mu Shu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+/6a
5. Ghost in the Shell . . . . . . . . . .x 6c+
6. Kalk Stall Videnhul . . . . . . . . .x 6b
In guide - now bolted.
1. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7. Coming back to Life . . . . . . . .
x 6b+
Very thin slab moves.
x 6b+
8. Thalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 6a+
10. Pegasus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a+
2 bolts at the start.
9. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 5+
11. Cicky Bugger . . . . . . . . . . . .
There are two methods one to the right of the bolts.
x 5+
13. Johanna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5
14. Heti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4
The line of old threads.
12. Heaven Is... . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 5+/6a
16. Semi Dulce . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+/6a
Route 6 in the guidebook.
15. 4 You . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 5+/6a
18. Fantasia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a
19. For my son Jens . . . . . . . . .x 6b
An easy wall, then a big ledge, then a deceptive scoop.
x 6c
21. Hafa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4+, 4
Route 7 in the guidebook - now bolted.
20. Aladdin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x3
15
8
14
13
7
9
11
12
10
6
5
2
3
4
1
Green lines are new and
may not be marked
correctly on the topo
To the
Amphitheatre
Route 12 is
somewhere here
x 6a+
2. Gufelwufel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5
3. Seduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+/6a
4. Banana Joe . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a
In guide.
1. Universal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x5
. . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+
5. Intressengem . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6. Dear Renate
In guide.
7. Tropical Dreams . . . . . . . . . . .
x 6a
In guide.
8. UB40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 5+
In guide.
x 5+
10. Clound No.9 . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a/6a+
11. Gaudi Max . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6b
In guide.
9. El Baile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
12. Follow me . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 7a+
TOIX OESTE - LOWER
The routes on this short bit of rock, below Toix Oeste, have
been re-bolted since the page was removed from the Second
Edition of Fax07 so here is the topo again.
APPROACH - Walk down rightwards from below the main Toix
West buttress.
x3
2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4
3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 3
4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 3+
5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4
6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4+
7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5
Has now been bolted.
1 .......................
1x 6b+
8 ....................
50m to the right is a tufa.
TOIX OESTE - Lower
May be in the wrong position.
17. Steinbeisser . . . . . . . . . . . . .
22. Hova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7
The route lines are approximate
and some may not be in the
correct order. Please feel free
to redraw or amend.
17 16
19
9
5
4
6
50m right
x 7a
8
13. Salida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
In guide.
14. ? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 6c
This could be Follow me.
15. Terminator
x 6c+
.............
In guide.
x 6a
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5
16. Daddycool . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
17. Un-named
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
PENON d’IFACH - Two New Routes
NEW DIMENSIONS
3x 7b
New Dimensions . . . . . . . . . .
At the top abseil off or
walk down rightwards to
Odja de Odra
4
No fixed gear
?
6c
35m routes
5+
Immense bulge
Immense
prow
Hanging seat
Hard wall
z o n e
5
Good
picnic ledge
r o c k
Bolts
marked
on the
three
grade 5
pitches
5+
3b
Very long
pitch
(20 clips)
Twin flakes
Alternative
6c pitch
6b+
7
4
5
7a
climbing, along with a bit of dodgy rock along the way. Not as impressive as New
Dimensions but certainly number 2 in the pecking order.
Black bolts
Start midway between Costa Blanca and El Navigante, below a line of new bolts to the
up white wall
7b
right-hand side of the huge pillar.
1) 7a+. Climb easily into a crumbly cave. Pull out right and up a leaning, compact wall Prominent ledge
by far the hardest moves on the whole route. Easier off-vertical wall climbing to a belay.
2) 6c. Move on up the wall past a rock scar, then make a scary move leftwards onto a
loose-looking flake - which is okay. Climb overlapped walls above to a belay.
3) 6b. Climb a scary and loose bulge then follow easy ground to reach a big steep jamming/layback crack which is fully bolted.
4) 6c+. A technical and exposed hanging arete, in better brown rock, leads to a belay on big ledge on top of the pinnacle.
5) 5. Step down across the void to gain lovely, easy, smooth jamming cracks. A very pleasant respite.
6) 6c+. A brilliant, big overhanging pitch up the equivalent band of perfect rock which the amazing 'blobs' pitch on New Dimensions follows. Ever steeper moves up the big corner to a tricky capping roof. Completely out-there!
7) 7a? The enigma. Bolts lead leftwards across a compact, prickly wall towards a thread in a pocket. Don't follow the bolts, as there are
no holds. Stretch left to clip the bolt out on the wall, and reverse back to base. Drop down and traverse underneath a perfect top-rope
left to pockets in the leaning wall. Lever up these to the aforementioned thread, and follow the thin corner above, past the odd chipped
slot, to easy ground and the top. There may also be a high level method on the traverse
SECTOR MARION (Page 108)
x 6b
2. Hola Patricio . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a
3. Puntea que no Tienes . . . . . . .x 6b
1. Colp de Cot . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
There are two new routes on the wall to the right. Both are about
35m and have very high first bolts which means you can loweroff with a second rope and get to the ground before the knot
reaches the first bolt. Take care whatever you do here.
3a . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1x 6b+
Good technical wall with a poor finish.
3b. Rosalind Sutton . . . . . . . .
1x 6a+
Poor lower wall leading to great crack. Combine lower bit of 3a
with upper bit of 3b for the best route (6b+).
Down the hill, past the trees are some more routes.
1x 6a
4. Bolt Tax . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8
9
10
11
6
This sector has been badly drawn in both editions of Fax07.
Above is an attempt at a better topo. The first three routes are
just to the left of this new topo and are long overdue an
upgrade.
3x 7a+
This fully-bolted, 7-pitch monster, has some atmospheric and occasionally intimidating
3a
6c+
; Puto Paseo Ecologico
8
Colpe de Cot Area
6c
Sector
Competicion
50m to
ground
from here
L o o s e
This amazing route tackles the awe-inspiring right-hand side of the vast South Face of the
Penon. After a desperate first pitch it relents somewhat before building to an incredible
finale on the huge bulging headwall. The climbing is sustained and intimidating and the
whole route is about English E6 to free but probably still E5 if you pull on a bolt or two on
the first pitch. A recent report puts the route at E5 free. All the main pitches are bolted but
the three easier pitches have only a few bits of fixed gear to show the line. The stance are
mostly bolted with the same arrangement of three bolts. There are other belays so if
yours hasn't got 3 good bolts, then you may be on the wrong line.
GEAR - It is advisable to take a rack for the three easy pitches and the last one since there
is quite a lot of loose rock. Twin 50m ropes are a good idea in case you have to retreat
but a single 60m will get you to the top since the pitches are fairly straight. Also worth
taking are your prussik loops just in case you fall off pitches 8 or 9.
APPROACH - Walk to the end of the promenade and continue to the path below the huge
quarried wall. Follow this back leftwards up the slope. When you are about half way up
the slope to the main routes, double back right to a perched ledge, below a line of black
bolts, up a gently leaning wall.
1) 7b (7a minimum to frig) 35m. A much harder pitch than it looks and worth every bit
of its 7b grade. It is similar to the Main Wall routes at Gogarth, only harder and steeper
than most of them, but with better protection. The crux is by the three close bolts, then
comes a hands-off rest. Take a good break here since the upper section is incredibly
draining to a non-rest on a big flake. One final hard move gains the stance. This last move
can't be frigged very easily.
2) 7a 35m. Climb straight up the wide crack behind the stance and follow the line over
two awkward bulges above. The line of bolts out to the left of the stance are an enjoyable
alternative 6c pitch which gets a bit lost higher up by a thin slab. The first move of this
alternative is very entertaining.
3) 6b+ 50m. A huge long pitch. The first moves are thin after that it plods upwards for
miles. Take care or you will run out of clippers.
4) 6c+ 40m. The short wall above is hard and steep. At the top of this wall is a ledge
below 20m of easy ground. Keep slightly right here until you reach a big ledge below the
hanging seat.
5) 5 20m. Step right around the corner past a peg. Follow the loose groove and step right
onto a belay above a pillar.
6) 5+ 30m. Teeter leftwards past a peg to a bolt. Continue into a bay then left to a thread.
Squirm back up rightwards past a bolt to belly-flop onto a ledge.
7) 5+ 35m. Spy the solitary bolt way up right and meander up to this. The short rib is
awkward and another belly-flop necessary to gain the next ledge. Walk right and pick your
jaw off the ground after you have seen where the next pitch goes.
8) 6c 25m. Just try and enjoy the position as you tip-toe up the groove, then launch up
the big holds to grab the blobs. Pray they don't break off and clip all four bolts at the
belay. Take a deep breath and stare downwards for ten seconds.
9) 6c 40m. A stunning pitch in an awesome position, but only the second best pitch on
this route. Follow the hanging groove above then tweak a few crimps (the smallest holds
on the route?) when the rock and angle changes. Continue past a couple of ledges to a
good stance.
10) - 40m. Scramble off rightwards past two grooves then double back left to reach the
top.
SELLA - Sector Marion - Page 108
1x 5
6. Cartujal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 5+
7. Cul de Sac . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5,5
8. Prusik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 5+,5+
9. Anglopithecus.... . . . . . . . . . .x 5,5,?
Now has a third pitch.
5. Deja Vu . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
1x 5+
10. Mr Pi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Start by bridging up the groove. Hard 6a if you stick to the hardest line. Can escape right to the crack.
3x 5+
11. Maríon . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The classic prominent arete offers one of Sella’s most celebrated
climbs. The grades suggested for the various pitches seem to
vary wildly from person to person.
1) 5+ 25m. Hard moves over a bulge then trend left to ledges.
2) 4 20m. Continue to another stance (50m to ground).
3) 4+ 20m. Follow a small groove to a tricky bulge. The bolts run
out after 5m. It is possible to step left in Anglopithicus if you
want, otherwise push on with wires, or abseil off.
SELLA - Sector Competicion - Page 109
SELLA - Sector Oja De Odra - Page 110
Sector
Odja de
Orda
Sector
Competicion
8
7
6
7
16
9
6
17
12
10
8
11
Sector Final
9
2
? Please help improve these
updates by amending this page
and returning a copy to ROCKFAX
5
3
4
1
Further up the hill is the famous hole. If you scramble up the back
of this hole you can get an amazing view of the Divino.
SECTOR OJO DE ODRA (Page 110)
3x 6a
SECTOR COMPETICION (Page 109)
8. Martxa d’Aci . . . . . . . . . . .
This is one of the show-piece areas of Sella with many long slab
climbs on perfect rock. There have been a few additions lately
and I have re-drawn the topo.
Great rock and a superb route.
The first routes are down and left of the main wall.
2x 6a+
2. Nido de Piratas . . . . . . . . .2x 6b
3. Y Tú ¿Quién Eres? . . . . . . .1x 6a
Polished.
1. El Gran Coscorron . . . . . . .
4. Desbloquéa que No . . . . . .
1x 5+
9. New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x5
5. Perietera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
10. Dingo Boingo . . . . . . . . .
6. The Wasp Factory . . . . . . .
2x 6a, 7a
A good first picth (worthwhile on its own) and a pumpy second.
3x 6c
An excellent line which is nicely sustained.
11. Pedro Estas Inspirado . . . . . .
x 8a
Not what you can to Spain for.
12. Sopa de Marsopa . . . . . .
2x 6b+
A long and technical route which is sutained from the 5th bolt all
the way to the top.
13. Odio los Domingos . . . . .
3x 6c+
Past the white rock scar.
Harder (6a) for the short.
The next two routes start from the big vegetated ramp and finish
high on the wall above.
5x 6b+
? route line on the topo
Gets tricky near the top.
14. Technocratas del Alpinismo
2x 6c
Technical climbing on side-pulls.
3x 6a+/6b
15. El Vuelo de la Maquina . . .
Some find this route hard, others find it okay - hence two grades.
7. Ratito de Gloria . . . . . . . .
A good first pitch worth doing on its own. The second pitch has a
very distinct crux move.
16. New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2x 6a, 6c
17. New
Around the corner and up the hill from Sector Competicion is a
steep end wall leading to a shorter section with an amazing hole
through it. Further right is another short wall which has seen
some recent development.
The first two routes are just around the corner from Sector
Competicion.
x 4+
. . . . . . . . .x 3+
1. Almorranas Salvajes . . . . . . . .
2. Alí Babá y los 40K
Further right the wall is stepper but the rock is a bit dodgy and
the bolts are well-spaced.
1x 7a+
3. Kamikaze . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Well named?
4. Seventh Samurai . . . . . . . .
1x 6c
Even more run-out.
The right-hand end of the wall has 2 new routes both of which
look to be in the ameanable grades.
9
14
13
1
2
13
4
3
15
11
12
5
14
10
5x 6a?
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5x 6a?
1x 6a
6. Roberto Alcázar y Merlin . .1x 6a+
A technical start followed by a long reach then some juggy
5. Fisura con Finura . . . . . . .
moves to the top.
x (6c)
7. Espíritu de Satur . . . . . . . . . . .
There are no bolts visible for this route. The line on the local topo
is just left of the cave.
8. Odja de Odra . . . . . . . . . .
1x 6c
Start in the hole and swing out of the left-hand side (looking in)
on sharp polished holes.
1x 6c+
9. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . .
The line of pockets right of the hole past a sling.
Right of the cave are five new routes. The grades in brackets are
approximations and no star ratings are known yet but the routes
aren’t classics.
? Grades Below
x (6b/c)
11. Mel de Roma . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a
12. Skid Row . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a
13. Los Remeros . . . . . . . . . . . .x (6c/7a)
14. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x (6a/b)
10. Els Nucliere . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SELLA - Sector Wild Side - Page 116 (NOTE - more additions since version 2 of this update)
Sella Wild Side
50m
2x 8b
12. La cratura . . . . . . . . . . .
Interesting despite 3 glued-on stones. The second bolt is
very high.
1x 7b+/7c+
13. Nido Amoroso . . . . . . . . .
The right-hand finish provides the easier 7b+ option. Chipped.
x?
14. Another line? . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pocketed wall left of route 10. Bottom half looks okay. Top half is
difficult to see. This line may not exist.
3x 8b
15. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . .
A stunning line up some vague tufas, all the way to the top.
8a+ to the first lower-off
25
x 7b
16. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
24
Short 7b route to first belay chain. A project (8b+) to the top.
23
3x 8a
22
17. Ergometria . . . . . . . . . . .
21
A mini Lourdes (see El Chorro) with a hard start followed by
pumpy moves up rounded tufas.
20
19
18
18. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
17
1x 8b+
5
14
13
19. Dosis . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
4
A very difficult line up the smooth overhanging wall. Chipped.
12
11
10
9
8
7
20. Cuestión de Estilo . . . . . .
6
3
2
1. Si te Dicen que Caí . . . . . .
1x 7a
1
6. La ola de Millau . . . . . . . .
3x 7c
This large and impressive overhanging wall is one of the steepest
crags in the area with some classic climbs up improbable tufas.
If you climb 7b or above, this is the best crag at Sella, and one of
the best in the Costa Blanca.
The prominent corner above where you arrive at the crag. Slink
rightwards at the top.
The tufa that forms the V-groove and follows the rising rightward
ramp just right of route of 7.
7. El pito el sereno . . . . . . . .
APPROACH
2. Todos los Caminos
Conducen al Rom . . . . . . . . .
A good route up the vague tufa/crack system.
There is a new land owner who owns the house that overlooks
the crag. You can no longer park as described in the guidebook.
Parking is only permissible on the main track/road. There is a
large 'No Entry' sign on the old track. The new owner is very
pleasant and is happy for people to climb but he doesn’t want
people to park on the track. PLEASE RESPECT THIS NEW
ARRANGEMENT.
Walk up the old track to a bend. Find an indistinct track through
some woods and scramble up an area of loose rock. Traverse a
section of rock and vegetation using a fixed rope to a ledge
below the wall.
2x 7b
x 7a+
3. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Blue streak and tufas left of Route 2. Poor.
3x 7c
A brilliant route with a bouldery start and a dynamic finish.
8. El Gerino . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3x 8a
Another excellent route. Climb past a long sling to a slot. Finish
9. Dimension diamente . . . . .
2x 7c+
Long and sustained, finishing up the vague left-facing corner.
up a left-facing corner. High in the grade.
5. La Forqueta del Diablo . . . .
2x 8a+
The line is marked by some double bolts with tats.
3x 7c+
A superb climb up the blue streak. The 7c+ grade is if you climb
direct, it is only 7b if you step right and use the right-hand bolt.
There is then a 50m gap past some blocky, but climbable looking
rock.
4. Celia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
2x 8a+
Start just right of a corner ramp and climb up to the blank head10. Sweet ladie . . . . . . . . . .
wall. A strange start and a boulder problem finish.
x 8b+
11. Septembre . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tufas up to the roof and then over roof. Finish as for route 10.
10
2x 7c
A good route up a rightwards trending crackline with a distinct
crux move. Finish on the belay of the previous route. Eases
above.
Approach
scramble
SECTOR WILD SIDE
x Project
Outrageous wall right of Dosis (makes this route look easy).
16 15
21. Keep the Faith . . . . . . . .
2x 7c,7b
Follow the overhanging ramp line to a crux on smooth rounded
tufas and pockets.
1) 7c
2) 7b
5x 7b
22. New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Slanting crack and pockets. Join Route 15 to finish.
3x 7b+
23. Ya Somos Olímpicos . . . .
A brilliant route up overhanging tufas. Pitch 2 continues up the
corner in a spectacular situation. Can be lead in one mega 50m
pitch from the ground.
1) 7b+
2) 7a+
3x 8a+
24. Watermark . . . . . . . . . . .
A vague crack and tufa system up a big black wall which is led in
one enormous pitch. To the first lower-off is an excellent 8a.
x 7b
25. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tufa left of 17 to the same lower-off as the first part of
Watermark.
AGJUAS ROJAS
FORADA - South Face - Left - Page 160
Sector Petorri
Sector Descote
by Karen Yeow
Agujas Rojas is a small collection of pinnacles on a hilltop near the town of Onil in a picturesque woodland
setting. The orange and yellow coloured walls offer face climbing enthusiasts well-bolted climbs on good
quality rock. Most of the routes are in the high 6s and 7s with only 3 routes below 6a. The approach is
very easy and the crag could be a good one to combine with a visit to Reconco or just to enjoy a bit of
peace and quiet away from the crowds at Sella and Toix.
Confusing area - lots of bolts
ASPECT AND CLIMATE
Most of the crag faces west although the pinnacles can give shade if you find the right spots. The trees
also offer some shelter from the sun and wind however there is nothing to climb here in the rain.
12
13
11
16
14 15
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
North Face
Access passage
South Face
FORADA SOUTH FACE (page 160)
There has been a bit of development on this popular easier sector
and I have improved the topo slightly above.
SECTOR PETORRI
This is virtually at the highest point of the ridge.
x 3+
1. Un-named . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
An easy new route. There is a bolt to the right which connects
this and the next route to give a better, and harder, variation.
? This could be a route in its own right.
2. Bon Dia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x5
Now bolted and with its own lower-off.
x4
3. Cursilania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The line of bolts curves rightwards.
x 6a+
8. Paula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+
Climb through a slanting groove.
7. ? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 5+
x 4/5
There seems to be some confusion over the next set of routes.
This area is way over-bolted and it appears that there are more
lines than listed below however when I checked it very carefully
(December 1998) I could only find one new line. It is obviously
very easy to stray from your chosen line.
x 6a
6. Noche Golfa . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
11
Stone hut
Villena
Biar Reconco
A new line on the right of this wall.
? There may be another new line further right.
Salinas
Castalla
Salinas
Agujas Rojas
Onil
Peña Rubia
Cabreras
10. New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pink House
‘El Sucre’
Avda de
Castalla
Onil
50m to the right.
1nx 4,4+
A two pitch route on natural gear, up the corner and wall above.
oad
res R
Bane
Sax
SECTOR DESCOTE
x 6a
13. Freire sin Aceite . . . . . . . . . .x 6a
14. New . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a+
15. Mujer Furtiva . . . . . . . . .1x 6a+
16. Cosme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+
Further right, past a corner.
1x 5
Map on
next page
Agujas Rojas
330
tinued to the shared lower-off.
The direct line is good.
To Madrid
The large flake/corner.
11. Caballari . . . . . . . . .
5. Pilar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SAX
AREA
9. Tiburón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
x 5+
There is a lower-off at the bend in the route but originally it con4. Fam de Gos . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
APPROACH
Agujas Rojas is best reached from the motorway and not via the twisting mountain roads (this has been
tested and there is almost 20 minutes in it from Calpe to the crag). From Alicante, drive towards Madrid on
the N330 (a free dual carriageway). Turn off this at the second junction signed to 'Sax'. Follow this road
towards 'Castalla' but keep left towards 'Onil'. At a complex junction under a dual carriageway, continue
straight past two small roundabouts. Reconco is up on the left. Keep going into Onil until you arrive at a
traffic circle (the mountain road arrives at this point from the right). Go straight on here onto Matrimonio
Mira Garcia (at an arrow pointing towards ‘Baneras’ and ‘Alcoi’). This road turns into the Baneras Road follow it for 2.5km past a traffic circle until you reach a fork in the road. Take the left fork and continue for
about 2km, past a pink house (‘El Sucre’) on the left. The crags are visible as a series of tawny coloured
faces uphill from the road. Park at a small gravelled shoulder off the road, within sight of the crag, just
before a ruined stone hut. You’ve gone too far if you drive past a stone wall on your right. There are several paths leading from the road up through the woods to the crags.
Forada
Elda
From
Reconco and
the motorway
Petrer
Monovar
Matrimonio
Mira Garcia
12. Marisol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
330
From Alicante
10km
CV 815
Ibi
AGUJAS ROJAS
AGUJAS ROJAS
Sector La Hiedra
SECTOR MEDIA VUELTA
7. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . . .
x?
Sector La Hiedra
38
27
Sector El Corredor
The back of the pinnacle.
37
8. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . . .
6
x 6c
28
21
29
10
The central line.
Sector la Esfinge
36
7
9. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . . .
x?
The right-hand line.
Sector a
la Sombre
9
1
8
30
35
31
16
32
SECTOR EL CORREDOR
Sector Media Vuelta
25
2
3
4
x 7b
11. Nit de Bruixes . . . . . . . . .1x 7b+
12. My Gym . . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 7b+
Start under a pocket.
6
5
SECTOR LA HIEDRA
The crag is about 10m high and is situated about 10m above the
track. It gives a small set of steep blobby routes with powerful
moves and strange holds.
Aspect - The crag is in the shade until late in the afternoon.
23
22
Sector Tocho Pinchoso
2x 7a+
13. L’Babao . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The thin, intermittent crack.
M
1x 6b
2. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . . .x (7 ?)
3. Jumpin’ Jack Flash . . . . . . . . .x 7c+
Up a slightly overhanging arete.
x 7a
5. Jack El Destrepador . . . . . .1x 7c+
An overhanging face climb with small shallow pockets.
4. Niu de Aranyes . . . . . . . . . . . .
2x 8a
6. Lagramusa . . . . . . . . . . . .
1x 7b+
1x 7c
16. Mentireta . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 6a+
17. Los Taruges . . . . . . . . . .1x 6b
18. Un 6b I si no Tambe . . . .2x 7a+
19. Turbo Diesel . . . . . . . . .2x 7a
20. Hay Btuneta . . . . . . . . . .2x 7c+
21. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . .x (7 ?)
15. Mama Chico . . . . . . . . . .
Sector El Corredor - Right
SECTOR LA ESFINGE
SECTOR TOCHO PINCHOSO
x 7a+
23. Cipriano Toca el Piano . . . . . .x 6c
24. Hay Madonna . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a+
22. Marabu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
SECTOR A LA SOMBRE
x 6a
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 6a+
25. Fumador No . . . . . . . . . . . . .
26. Crus
13
14
16
15
17
18
20
Sector El Corredor - Left
12
19
21
x?
28. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . .x ?
29. A la Sombre . . . . . . . . . .1x 6a
30. Clip-clap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 7b
31. Rompe Techos . . . . . . . .1x 7b
32. Escupe Cubatas . . . . . . . .1x 6b+
33. La Tufona . . . . . . . . . . . .1x 7b
34. Besuga . . . . . . . . . . . . .2x 7c+
35. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . .x 6c+
36. Gonso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4+
37. Rufo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 5+
38. Pequenecos . . . . . . . . . . . . .x 4+
27. Name Unknown . . . . . . . . . .
12
ad
ro
The thin winding crack.
1. El Raco . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
11
n
ai
14. Chip-chop . . . . . . . . . . .
The routes are described from left to right.
10
34
24
10. Edu el Travieso . . . . . . . . . . .
1
33
26
Costa Blanca - Murla
GENERAL
A newly discovered and developing crag about 25km north of Calpe in the Jalon Valley. This is the
place to visit if you find the Costa Blanca too easy. The central section of the crag is very undercut and
then gets steeper. The climbing is characterised by sharp pockets and on many routes there is gear insitu to give you a chance to climb a-vista. For the seasoned indoor wall climber there is the perfect
route, Bailando Con Tu Puta Madre using familiar bolt on holds. The routes are short, steep and hard
for their grades.
APPROACH
Travel north from Calpe along the N332 towards Benisa and take the turning to Jalon and Alcalali.
Follow the road to Jalon and take a right turn at the garage and left at the roundabout, to gain the
bypass. Continue for 3km to the town of Alcalali where the road comes to a ‘T’ junction. Turn left and
then take the first right signed Pego. Continue along the road (passing Alcalali crag on the bend) to a
second ‘T’ junction. Take the right turn towards Orba. The crag is clearly visible up on the right. After
1km turn right into the Pueta de Valle villa development and keep on the main road until past the
houses and level with the crag. On reaching a green substation take the right turn along a rough track
(if allowed) and park next to the concrete building. If the road is blocked off park here and walk along
the track. At the concrete building find the footpath leading off from behind the back and in less than 5
minutes the crag is reached.
Note The track will soon be a finished road.
ASPECT AND CLIMATE
The crag is divided into four sections. The first section is quite short and has some fierce, technical
routes. The Main Sector is higher and very much steeper. This sector overlooks the villa development.
Around the corner Crazy Wall Sector is a series of slabby and vertical walls facing due south. This
sector provides the easiest climbing on the entire crag. Down and further along the hillside is a longer
and the highest, most impressive part of the crag which is largely undeveloped at present.
The rock is of excellent quality but can be very rough and much of the climbing is on sharp pockets
and tufas. You will find that your hands are sore and your muscles are tired after a day climbing here.
GEAR
All the routes are well protected by bolts. Some of the harder lines have a number of the quickdraws
permanently in place.
BOULDERING
There is a lot of scope for developing some very good and hard bouldering along the base of the main
sector – but bring a mat as the base is rocky and uneven. The areas currently developed are the roof
just as you reach the cliff, the undercut base behind the fallen blocks and the start to route La
Chaqueta Hidraulica in the Main Wall section.
Starting Route 1
Page 1 of 8
Version 3 20/4/2004
© Richard Davies 2004
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Page 2 of 8
Version 3 20/4/2004
“On the Left” Section
This is above the approach path and is in the shade in the morning until 2pm. The section is more
sheltered from the wind than the other sections.
Main Wall Section
There is a 30 metre section of rock with no routes and then the crag gets really overhanging. Some of
the routes have in-situ gear which is a great help when the climbs are so steep. This section is in the
shade until approx 4pm in the summer and in the shade all day in winter time. The right most side can
get very windy and quite cold.
1. ?
1. ?
6c+
7m. A steep line on sharp pockets. Pull up and left to
gain better holds. Easier to the belay.
2. ?
7a
10m. As for route 1. Straight up the diagonal line.
3. ?
6c
12m. Hard start.
4. ?
6c+
12m. Harder start.
5. ?
12m. The corner line to finish at the belay of the
previous route.
6c
6. Holds? What holds?
8a/8a+
12m Start off the ledge to the right. A hard start leads to
a good hold after which the title becomes appropriate.
Richard Davies, December 2003
6. ?
7b+
15m. Start below the roof and pull though to gain a large
tufa. Climb this and the steep wall above. Eases after
half way.
7. ?
7b+?
15m. The large corner line and roof at the top.
8. ?
project
Start as for the last route but move to the right arete.
Climb this.
8a+
15m. Pocket line with in-situ gear.
2. La Chaqueta Hidraulica
8a
15m.
3. ?
7c
15m. Hard start and follow the painfully pocketed crack
line soaring rightwards though the bulge.
4. ?
8a+
15m. The pockets up the wall to the right to the block,
joining the previous route at the top.
5. ?
project
15m
6. ?
project
15m.
7. ?
project
15m
8. Bailando Con Tu Puta Madre
7b
15m .Use 4 bolt on holds to climb the barrel wall. A very
good (although artificial) route.
10.?
8a+
12m. Line to the right. Start up good tufas until
difficulties passing a broken hold.
11. ?
7c+
15m. 4m to the right. Hard boulder problem leads to
good holds. Fight up the tufa above and through the
bulges to the belay. An excellent and sustained route.
From the belay of the previous route a roof extends to
the right for 10m.
12. ?
8a
15m. Climb the wall to the right and pull though the right
side of the roof at the top.
13. ?
7c+
15m. Fingery and technical climbing up the smooth wall
to the right.
14. ?
project
15m. Sparsley bolted line to the right.
15. ?
7c+
15m. Bulge to a good horizontal slot. Climb the groove
above.
There is now a gap of 10m
9. ?
8a
12m. Line up the tufas
Page 3 of 8
Version 3 20/4/2004
Page 4 of 8
Version 3 20/4/2004
10 meters further right is
16. ?
Crazy Wall Sector
Continue around the corner and along the path for 30 metres until a slabby wall is reached. This sector has some
easier routes.
project
15m. Start behind the tree and bush. Past a peg follow
the line of pockets diagonally rightwards.
17. ?
project
Direct to the belay on route 17.
18. ?
7c
15m. Pockets through the bulge. Move left and up to
belay.
19. The Last Bicep
7b+
10m. The hanging groove 3m to the right. Start on the
right of the first bolt, move up and left into the groove,
finish up the right-hand crack.
Richard Davies – January 2004
10m further right the rock gets less steep.
19. Tendonator
7b
10m. Start at a shallow corner. Make a hard move off
the ground to better holds and pull through the roof to
jugs. Cross the wall rightwards and go straight up the
wall.
Richard Davies – December 2003
19. ?
6c+
10m. 7a if you climb left of the bolt or start to the right.
Passing the hole at 3m is the most difficult. Follow the
groove above to a belay.
20. ?
6c+
8m. Climb the short wall and pull through the bulging
rock above.
1. Scary Movie
6a+
8m. Start in the center of the wall.
Richard Davies – April 2004
2.Via Segundo
6a
3. Via Primaria
5+
8m. 1st of 2 parallel lines up the middle of the wall.
Easier climbed on the right of the bolts.
8m. 2nd line.
Page 5 of 8
Version 3 20/4/2004
Page 6 of 8
Version 3 20/4/2004
Sector Mayor
Follow a path down the hill side and under some small slabby walls. The remainder of the crag runs for
½ km along the hillside. This part of the crag is much higher and is south facing and gets the sun for
most of the day. This is the continuation of the Alcalali crag.
After the large central section of the crag are two parallel lines.
1. ?
7c?
30m.
2. ?
7c?
30m.
A further 20m along the path, just left of a cave
entrance.
4. ?
6a+
10m. The wall close to the flake.
5. ?
6b+
10m. Line to the right to finish at the belay of route 3.
6. Crazy Crazy
6c
10m. Climb from block and step right. Climb straight
through the bulge and more easily up the wall to the
belay.
Richard Davies - September 2003
7. Spanish Holiday
6c+
10m. Start as for Crazy Crazy. Step right and climb to
the obvious hole high in the wall. Finish at the belay of
the last route.
Richard Davies - September 2003
8. Atchata
7b+
10m. Start to the right. The move through the bulge is
extremely powerfull on undercuts. It can be climbed with
1 point of aid at a pleasant 6c.
Richard Davies - April 2004
Page 7 of 8
Version 3 20/4/2004
Richard Davies on Spanish Holiday
Page 8 of 8
Version 3 20/4/2004
En la Font de l Árc, a pie de pared, se encuentra el Refugio, base ideal para todas
tus actividades tanto en el valle de Sella como en otras zonas cercanas (Puig
Campana, Ponoch, Toix y Mascarat y el Peñon de Ifach). Por el momento es el
único lugar de la zona donde además de pernoctar, encontrarás toda la info
relativa a escalada, senderismo, BTT y parapente.
El Refugio dispone de 25 plazas, duchas, servicio de bar y zona de acampada
vigilada. Además organiza permanentemente cursillos de escalada. Cuenta
también con un servicio de guías de montaña y alquiler de material.
Casa-refugio Font de l Árc, s/n Sella 03579.Alicante. 965 941019
Sella es una zona muy frecuentada a lo largo de todo el año. Su
clima y su situación la hacen ideal como escuela de invierno, pero
se puede escalar en las caras norte durante cualquier época del año.
Es por esto que se hace necesario respetar unas normas de
convivencia minímas para que todos podamos seguir disfrutando de
este lugar por muchos siglos.
Lugar de paso de escaladores de todo el mundo, se va convirtiendo
paulatinamente en un punto de encuentro obligado
Mantegamos un ambiente tranquilo y respetuoso con los demás a
pie de pared. Es mejor dejar el loro para lugares mas apropiados.
Usad el coche lo menos posible. Evitareis el desgaste de los caminos
y ahorraréis pelas en mecánico y gasofa
No hacer nunca fuego. Es una zona de alto riesgo.
La recogida de basura no es diaria, por tanto será mejor si la
depositais en Sella o mejor, en Villajoyosa o Benidorm.
Respetemos la época de nidificacion, desde mediados de enero a
finales de junio.
Algunas paredes como el Tafarmaig, el Divino y la Taula son
usadas para nidificar por aves protegidas
Sectores
Font Mayor
Rellotge de la Mora
Pared de la Cima
La Taula
La Cueva
El Elefante
El Totxo
Cabeza de Rino
Culo de Rino
Techo de Rino
Foia Roja
Ojo de Odra
Pared de Rosalía
La Galera
La Papallona
Pared de Casandra
VIPS
Lineas Naturales
Wild Side
965 972106
Tipo
Altura
Pared
Num.
Vias
10 mts.
25 mts.
200 mts.
180 mts.
200 mts.
80 mts.
10 mts.
15 mts.
30 mts.
60 mts.
60 mts.
23 mts.
100 mts.
100 mts.
100 mts.
80 mts.
15 mts.
70 mts.
60 mts.
7
2
9
9
9
16
3
18
21
22
22
24
20
1
5
1
13
3
12
Cabeza de Rino
Techo del Rino
Se puede dividir en dos partes, la izquierda
(vias 1 a la 11) severa y extraplomada, y la
derecha, inexplicablemente concurrida, con
predominio de la escalada en placa. Vias
muy sobadas.
Vías variadas en grado y estilo. Predominio de la
escalada en placa. La mejor la 18. Uno de los
sectores más populares.
1
L ´ eura
6b
10
Julio Cesar
2
Chapo el segundo
6a
11
Chulerías
6c+
6c
3 Menestrel Pescanova 7b+
12
Pequeñecos
3+
1
Dime Dime
3+
12
Vía pecuaria
6b
4 Síndrome del betún 7a+
13 La tina de Turner
5+
2
Con mallas....
3+
13
Martín Galas
6c+
5
Próximo bautizo
7a+
14
6b
3
Pequeñecos II
4
14
Vaya tipo...
6c
6
Comtitapel
7a
15 Frustración agrícola 4+
4
Pequeñecos III
4+
15
Cardo
6c+
7
La diagonal
7a+
7a
16
Acróbata
7a
Tais tois tolais
4+
16 Quisiera ser un 8º
4
5
Porko....
8 Hombres de poca fe 8a
17
5
6
Cuidado con....
6b
17
Ssorbe verga
7b+
9
18 Registro sanitario 6b+
7
Zig Zag....
5+
18
Kashba
6c+
8
Trwo night of....
5+
19
No me bajes....
7a
9
Blanco nato
6a+
20
Colp de Cot
6a+
6b
Multigrado
7c
Verglas que si
Culo de Rino
Sector clásico con vías de placa
vertical y dificultad concentrada en un
paso.
6b
10
Pesos pluma
6b
21
Hola Patricio
11
La Explanada
8b+
22
Puntéa....
6a
Foia roja
Variedad de grados y estilos. La mejor la
6.
1
Timatiriticón
5+
12
Tu dirás
6a+
2
Chusmanática
6a
13
Vino de Oporto
6b+
3
Otigofrénica
7b+ / 7c
14
Güija loca
6c
4 Denominación....
6a
15
Kina borregada
7b
1
Colp de cot
6a+
12
Wasp Factory
6a / 6c+
5
Camilo el Rey
6a+
16 No frenes mis instintos 7a
2
Hola Patricio
6b
13
Ratito de gloria
6a / 6c
6
Valor y Coraje
6a
17
7a
3
Puntéa
6a
14
martxa dáci
5+
7a
4
Rosalin Sutton
5+
15
Dingo Boingo
6c
Mister Pi
5+
16
Pedro....
7c+
Marion
Sopa de marsopa
6b+
6c+
7
Martillazos....
6b
18
Suspiros de dolor
La Cosa
8
Sense novetat
6a
19
A golpe de pecho
7a
5
9
Los refugiados
5
20
Con las manos....
6c
6
10
Vía del Indio
5+
21
Días de lluvia
6a+
11 Divinas Chapuzas
6a
4 / 4+ /5 17
7 Gran Coscorron
6a+
18 Odio los domingos
8
6b
19
tecnócratas....
6c
6a
20
El vuelo....
6a+
Nido de Piratas
9 Y tú ¿quien eres?
10
Desbloquéa....
5
21 Almorranas salvajes
4
11
Perletera
5+
22
4
Alí Babá
Ojo de Odra
8
Sonrisa...
6b
18
Final déstiu
7b
9
Calfamusculs
6a+
7a
6b
19
Proyecto.
7b+
10
Caleidoscopio
6a
20
Los Avutardos.
7b+
Las vías son guapas, pero están en terrenos privados.
La única condición que nos ponen es que no subamos
los coches. Por favor, sed respetuosos.
Pared de la Galera
1 Almorranas salvajes 4
13
El Oitxoncet
6a
2
Alí Babá
14
Con mallas....
5+
3
Kamikaze
7a+ 15
Aqui....
5+
4
7 Samurai
6b+ 16
Ni aquí....
6b+
5
Fisura con finura
6a
17
Wagageegee
6a+
6
Roberto Alcazar
6a
18 Desperate Dan
6c
7
Espíritu de Satur
6b
19 Kilroy was ére
6c
8
Ojo de Odra
6b+ 20
6b+ 21 Grillos navajeros 6c
9
Los coreanos
10
La vergüenza
11
La vergüenza II
12
Speedy González
4
3+
22 Mandolin wind
3a+ 23
5
El agüí
Nº
1
L1 L2 L3 L4
Mujer lamprea.
6c 6a+ 6c 6c
6c
7a
Anno Dracula
6c
I/Q 18/30
6b
24
Zona poco
desarrollada y con
grandes posibilidades.
Ideal para verano.
P. de Rosalia / Espejo / Collado
La más desarrollada de las paredes del
Tafarmach. Vías de gran ambiente,
generalmente equipadas. Verticalidad y
cantos limpios.
Nº
L1
L2
L3 L4
Nº
Pared de la Papallona
No hay sendero hasta pie de vía. Rapelar
desde la cumbre (obligado para vías 4 y
5) o llenarse de espinas. Por lo demás es
una buena zona.
L1 L2 L3
1 Escalera de color. 8b
11
2
El burócrata.
?
12 Sin Comentarios.
7b
3
Luna
6b+
13
7a 6a+ 6c+
Nº
4
Lejos de la
multitud.
4
6c
7a+
Rosa de Piedra.
7a
1
5
Venus Erycina
4
6c
7b A2+ 15
La vergonya
4
6
???
16
Indecisa
6c
17
Quita la música,
macarra.
7a+
7
Tanit
6b
6b
5+
6b+ 7a
6a+ 6b
14
Pretoriana
???
6b+
6b
L1 L2 L3
???
2
???
3
El Badall de
Tafarmaig.
Nº
L1 L2
L3
4 ??? 6c 6b
5+
6a 6a
6a+ 6b+ 6a
5 ??? 7a+ 7b 7b (izda) 8a+ (dcha)
Pared de la Cima
Vías serias de carácter alpino. Horarios largos
según la vía. Cansancio asegurado al final del
día. Escenario de lujo, con caliza que no
conoce el magnesio ni los cantos picados.
Pared de Casandra
No hay sendero hasta pie de vía. Rapelar
desde la cumbre.
Nº
1
Nº
1
Gran diedro rojo
L1
L2
6c
6a
2
3
4
5
6
7
El Totxo
Pues....... es un pedrusco de considerable tamaño, para
ser un pedrusco.
L1
Pantera
Rosa(final)
Placas solares
La zapatilla
?
Mantastic
Notario
Edwards
L2
L3
L4 L5 L6 L7 L8 L9 L10 L11 L12 L13 L14
4 5 4+ 4
3
4+
4
6a
6b
6b
6c+
5
4+
5 4+ 4 5 4+ 4 3
4
5
4 4
6a+
6b
5+ 5+
6b+
6c+
6b
6b+
6b 6b+ 6c 6c+
6b+
6c
? ? ?
7b
8 Ignasi Hernández 5+
7a+(6b+/A2) 4+ 5+
(6b+/A2)
Amor de
9
3 5+ 5+ 5+ 5+
Odio(final)
Pared de la Taula
Vías largas en terreno de
aventura.
1 Penetrados
2
Morigry
6c
3
Escalera de color
7b+
6b+
Nº
L1
L2
L3 L4 L5 L6 L7 L8
1
Todo
4+
6c+
2
La Taula
7a+
7a+
7b 7a+
3
Excitacion
4+
7b
7a+ 7a
4
Opera Orni
7b
A3
A3
5
La canal
3
4
4
4
6
Licia Agullo
?
?
?
?
7
Via del chino
3
8 Sangre en las rocas 7a
4
7a+
5
A0 5/A0 4+ 4+
?
4 4/A1 4+
6b 6a+
9 Milongas sangrantes 6a+ 6b+/A0 7b
6a 5+
3
4
3
FONT MAYOR
Zona de la Cueva
Sector poco interesante con vías explosivas y muy
cortas. Posibilidad de practicar boulder.
Nº
1
L-1
Peligro de extinción
L-2
L- L3 4
L-5
5 5+,A1+ 4+ 5+
5
2
Alcudia
4+
5
4+ 5+
4
3
Espolóm Pertemba
3
4+
4
3
4
?
6a+
5
?
6
?
6c
7
?
7a+
8
El paraiso antes de
Eva
6a
4+
4
5
5
9
Virus
4
4+
3
5a
3
4
L-6
1 Baldomero, rey del mambo 6b+
L-7
3
4
2
Hierbabuena
3
Calfadits
7b
4
? - (proyecto)
?
5
Malahierba
6c+/7a 6 El síndrome de la llampaça
7
Apologia del desatino
6b
7a
6a+/6b
Rellotge de laMora
?
Zona incendiada en 1994. No pisar la repoblación.
Vías verticales. Placa. Sector poco desarrollado
con buenas posibilidades.
4+
El Elefante
Una de las más expectaculares zonas de Sella.
Escalada de continuidad en roca vertical y algo
abrasiva.
Nº
L-1
L-2 Nº
1 Tramontana tremens
7c+
9
2
Plasmagoratron
8a
10 Lengua de serpiente (dcha)
3
Hostia succidanea
7c
11
4
Pontifex Maximus
7a/7a+
12
Divine...
5
The Shame
4+
13
El Arúspice
6
Candyman
6b
6a+ 14
7
Scorpion
7a
8
Lupo
6b+
6c
L-1 L-2 L-3
Lengua de serpiente
?
7b+ 7c
7c+
7a+ 7c
7b+ 7c 7c
7a+
? - (proyecto)
15
Gran Fisura
6b+
16
Naked Edge
4+ 6c
1
Jose Arcadio Buendía
7a
2
Macondo
7c+
1
La invasion de las
moscas
7b+
VIPS
LINEAS NATURALES
Desplome de 45º. Escalada corta y explosiva. Las
mejores vias son las originales (5,7,9,10 y 11). El
resto ha sido buscar donde no hay. Mucho picado
y sicado que, sin duda, han restado brillantez a
este sector.
Impresionante pared donde podras practicar la
escalada con empotradores, ya que todas las vías se
encuentran semiquipadas. Los dos últimos largos
de Entrance eam están totalmente equipados
aunque necesitan una pequeña restauración debido
a la calidad (un tanto "britanica") de los anclajes.
8
Bullarenque
8c
2
???
6c
9
La generación del yogur
7a+
3
Hazlo ahora
8b
10
La fuerza de la costumbre
7c
Nº
1 Entrance Exam 6a+ 7c+ 6c
4
Jumping mecha flash
5
Desert Strorm
6
Ejecucion radical
7
Mark of the Beast
8a
11
7c+ 12
?
13
Estratego
7c
Copacabana
7b+
El mejor matarife
6c+
8a
Vías de gran belleza y
continuidad sobre estalactitas
y muro desplomado.
Problamante las mejores de
Sella.
L1 L2
Nº
8a+
7
Nido amoroso
7c+/8a
2 Ya somos olimpicos 7b+ 7a+
8
El gremio
7b+
3
Keep the faith
7c
9 La forqueta del diablo
7c+
4
Cuestión de estilo
7b
10
8a
5
Dosis
8b
11 Todos los caminos...
7b
6
Ergometría
8a
12
7a
1
Watermark
2
Middle Exam
3
Final Exam
5+ 6c 7a+
6b+ 6c
3* Variante entrada 5
Wild side
Nº
L1 L2 L3
7a
Grado
Celia
Si te dicen que caí

INFOMONT/resesescalada/Deportiva/Levante/Costa Blanca

Transcription

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