Nouvelle CuisiNe

food tour
Nouvelle Cuisine
By Andrea Bosco | Photograph + Styling by Cayla Zahoran
the fall food scene is robust with the expansion of flagship restaurants,
the arrival of dynamite chefs, and epicurean celebrations! Learn tips from
top chef Jason Capps on spicing up your game-day tailgate. Reinvent your palate with a visit to that new
restaurant you’ve been meaning to try, and stock your ‘fridge with delicious Italian soda, new to Burgatory,
made locally. New on the scene is a French patisserie — warm up with a café au lait and a to-die-for éclair.
There is so much to put on your food radar. Grab your scarf and go!
Turn to page 56 to get the
details on these gorgeous
goodies from Gaby et Jules!
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Chef’s Top 10: Jason Capps
1
KISSF (Keep
It Simple,
Steelers Fans)
“Less (work) is more (fun). Added stress
does not make you a better host. Know
your limitations, but push the envelope
toward ETS (Expert Tailgate Status).
Don’t out-do yourself. As a guest, or
host, I’d rather have three awesome
items on the plate versus six or more
half-baked concoctions.”
2
No one knows a tailgate better
than Jason Capps. Capps owns
and operates Bella Sera Catering,
Venue, Bistro & BBQ, a certifiedgreen brand. We asked for the
master griller’s assistance in
planning a supreme parking lot
party. He may make it look easy, but
much of what’s below actually is!
Who’s in?
The Venue at Bella Sera, 414
Morganza Road, Canonsburg.
724.745.5575. bellaserapgh.com.
Timing Is
Everything
5
Beyond Beer:
Think Batch
Beverages
“Sangria is a great example of how advanced
preparation meets on-site convenience. Be sure
to soak your fall fruit (apples, pears, grapes) in
brandy one to two days ahead. Awake Sunday
morning, add your wine of choice and go. Let
blend. A Canadian “Sunday Funday” favorite is
the “Caesar” — a Bloody Mary with clam juice.
Funk it up with cool garnishes, i.e., Slim Jims,
long carrot sticks, or try pre-pierced skewers with
pepperoncini, jumbo olives, pickled cauliflower,
and Genoa salami cubes.”
“Ready, set, go! Quick set-up means more
party time and less missed kick-offs. Fire
up the grill, pop the E-Z-UP tent, and set
up your prep and buffet tables. Get drinks
in hands, starter snacks out, then put out
condiments — 15 minutes tops. By now,
the grill is already hot and you’ve intuitively
staged like a pro. Hint: A tent not only
protects from the elements, but also creates
boundaries to define your space.”
“Lettuce” Get
Ahead of the
Game
3
“What can you do in advance? Create
items that store and travel well —
made days ahead. One of my favorites
are veal meatballs. Thursday, make
tomato sauce. Friday, make meatballs
and bake. Saturday, combine the two,
and place in crockpot on low before
bed. Split and garlic butter the rolls —
wrap in foil. Sunday morning, place
bun on grill, meatballs on bun, add
shredded mozzarella on meatballs,
return to grill in foil, eat, repeat.”
4
6
Hot Soup, Happy
Faces
“Soups and stews embody all the key aspects of the
ultimate tailgate fare. Warming and filling, soups
are easy to serve and eat standing up — sometimes
without a spoon. My favorite? Butternut squash
bisque. Serve in an insulated paper cup (no Styro,
yo!), you can even get fancy and garnish with a
dollop of Greek yogurt and some freshly grated
nutmeg. Touchdown!”
The Heat Is On
“Propane versus charcoal?
Propane eliminates several variables
by consistently producing quick and
reliable heat. Just be sure to test-fire it at
home to make sure it works. Clean it up,
and check your gas supply. Anything
you can take already warm or parcooked, do it. Remember: coolers work
as warmers, too. The fuller the better.”
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Photographs from Terry Clark, by Adam Milliron.
7
Think for the
Masses
“Healthier choices are always smart to have
around. With eight home games, why not
mix it up with partial menu themes? A great
variation could be a Korean BBQ. Kalbi beef
is a super-smart tailgate item. Thinly sliced,
cross-cut short ribs marinated with ground
kiwi, brown sugar, soy, and fresh ginger will
cook in five minutes on the grill. Pair with
Asian red cabbage slaw.”
8
Delegate When
You Tailgate...
“...but also have a contingency plan.
Otherwise, don’t count on someone for
the core items you can’t live without. Life
happens, traffic happens. Let someone
bring the buns, not the meatballs. A bread
sandwich just isn’t that good, if you know
what I mean. Meatballs on a plate are
acceptable in a pinch. Catch my drift?”
9
Tender and Juicy
“Saucier, moister foods will always
be better in the long run. Especially if you
plan to rekindle the flames and rejoice a
victory after the game. If I were to go the
Southwestern route, I love our tasty Roasted
Corn & Black Bean Salad (recipe available
at whirlmagazine.com!), served with our
Grilled Baja Chicken Breast. Marinated and
ready for the grill, boneless/skinless chicken
breasts cook quickly and offer a healthier
protein option.”
10 Snacks N’at
“Skip the boring chips and pretzels,
and go beyond! Why not combine them with
some cashews, caramel or cheese popcorn,
flavored Triscuits, Cheez-its, you name it.
For a dessert treat, have apples already filled
with brown sugar, butter, and cinnamon,
wrapped in foil, and ready for the grill. I’ve
made soft pretzels, s’mores, gyros, even
fajitas right on the grill, with the help of
heavy duty foil.”
Photograph from Jacky Fife.
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Barefoot in
Pittsburgh
Aspiring to make your
cooking explorations
foolproof? Be sure to reserve
your seat for October 17
when the Barefoot Contessa,
Ina Garten, comes to town.
The Food Network star
and best-selling cookbook
author will be speaking at
the Benedum Center, sharing
her simple and delicious
cooking know-how. Her new,
New York Times best-selling
cookbook, “Foolproof:
Recipes You Can Trust,” is
one of our must-haves in
the kitchen, and we can’t
wait for the Q&A portion
of the evening to get even
more tried-and-tested advice
from Garten. How cool is
that? Barefoot Contessa,
barefootcontessa.com. For
tickets, visit trustarts.com.
— Nicole Barley
La Crème de la Crème
If you’re looking for a fine French pastry experience close to home, Gaby et Jules is calling
your name. The much-anticipated pâtisserie is pleasing its regulars and newbies with Parisquality macarons, éclairs, Napoléons, and other French specialties (See our spread on page
53!). The sibling brand of Shadyside’s Paris 66, the locale is a joint venture of Frederic and
Lori Rongier, and Master Pastry Chef David Piquard, who the Rongiers brought to the States
in 2011. Piquard impresses with edible creations, which perfectly complement the modern
French décor — spotless stainless steel, white marble-topped counters, and sparkling glass
vitrines. Gaby et Jules represents the grandfathers of Frederic and David, Gabriel “Gaby”
Rongier and Jules Piquard — who both dreamed of opening French pâtisseries. “It is very
emotional for us,” says Frederic. “We are so happy to be fulfilling this dream, not only for
ourselves but for our families. And we are grateful to the City of Pittsburgh for welcoming us
with open arms. We hope that all will enjoy this gift from France.” Oui oui, mon ami! Gaby
et Jules, 5837 Forbes Ave., Squirrel Hill. 412.682.1966. gabyetjules.com. Paris 66, 6018 Penn
Circle South, Shadyside. 412.404.8166. paris66bistro.com.
TRY OUR NEW LOCATION —
Bridgeville (October 2013)
1595 Washington Pike • 412.564.5746
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Photographs from Random House, Gaby et Jules.
Talent Returns
Braddock’s Pittsburgh Brasserie has welcomed culinary trailblazer and Pittsburgh native
Jason Shaffer as its new executive chef. Highly sought after, his extensive résumé
features experience pioneering the revitalization of dozens of restaurants from within
New Orleans’ Beau Rivage Casino to Vegas’ Mandalay Bay and Bellagio. He’s most
known for his nine-year contribution to the nine restaurants of the renowned Beau
Rivage Casino, including the launch of the casino’s award-winning Port House. “We
are confident that chef’s culinary creativity will continue to elevate our guests’ dining
experience,” says General Manager Jennifer Thomas. “His worldly expertise brings
tremendous talent to our team.” He’s in part responsible for the revamping of Mt.
Washington’s Monterey Bay Fish Grotto, and played an integral role in the $16 million
transformation of the Radisson turned DoubleTree by Hilton Pittsburgh in Green Tree
— not to mention other countless accolades. He’s earned four-star and four-diamond
ratings, as well as awards from Dirona, Food & Wine Spectator, and the James Beard
Foundation. We’re thrilled to have him back. Braddock’s Pittsburgh Brasserie, 107 6th
St., Downtown. 412.992.2005. braddocksrestaurant.com.
Calendar Cravings!
Get to the intersection of Penn and Highland Avenues in East Liberty on October 5
for a vibrant block party, complete with a pig roast by chef extraordinaire Kevin
Sousa, food trucks, olive oil tastings, and glass-blowing demos. The East Liberty
Round-Up is a celebration of the area’s cultural resurgence and part of week-long
festivities, which include an artisan pop-up lounge at Wood Street Galleries, an
open artist studios brunch in Lawrenceville, and mural tours in Millvale. Visit
treadingart.com/discoverpittsburgh for details.
Mad About It
Mad Mex changed the Pittsburgh culinary scene when it first opened its
doors in October 1993. It started in Oakland with a small collection of folk art,
simple dishes, and a few microbrews. Now, the company boasts 10 locations
in Pittsburgh and the surrounding area. This year, it’s celebrating its 20th
anniversary, and has added delicious menu items to commemorate! The
restaurant has teamed up with Fat Head’s Brewery to create “the perfect beer.”
Enter Dos Décadas — a Mosaic hop blend of passion fruit and piney citrus notes,
created by ale alchemist Matt Cole. Available the second week of the month, at
7.5 percent ABV and 80 IBUs, it’s the perfect drink to wash down a from-scratch
signature burrito or enchilada. Let’s celebrate! Mad Mex, 20510 Perry Hwy.,
Cranberry. 724.741.5656. 4100 William Penn Hwy., Monroeville. 412.349.6767.
7905 McKnight Road, North Hills. 412.366.5656. 370 Atwood St., Oakland.
412.681.5656. 2 Robinson Plaza, Park Manor Drive, Robinson. 412.494.5656. 220
South Highland Ave., Shadyside. 412.345.0185. 2101 Green Tree Road, Scott
Township. 412.279.0200. madmex.com. — Michelle Dickson
Mad Mex
Shadyside
Celebrating
74 YEARS
of serving great
ITALIAN FOOD
All dressings and
sauces are house made
18 flavors of
house made gelato
IF YOU LOVE ITALIAN FOOD
YOU OWE IT TO YOURSELF
TO TRY OUR RESTAURANT
AngelosRestaurant.com
2109 North Franklin Dr
Washington, Pa. 15301
724-222-7120
Opentable.com for
Reservations.
Photograph by Rachel Priselac.
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featuring
Prohibition era
specialty cocktails
Dancing
Club
Sunday BBQ
Not going to the game? Hot at Cain’s Saloon are Steelers Sundays! The Dormont
restaurant serves in-house smoked meats and barbecue specials on game day, not
to mention a Bloody Mary bar, and all-day breakfast. The bar boasts 33 craft beers,
a list of local brews, daily specials, and 20 flat-screen TVs for the sports fanatics.
Known for the Codfather, a colossal, “gangster” fish sandwich, the locale is also
known for its all-you-can-eat crab legs on Monday and wing night on Wednesday.
For its Smokehouse Sunday menu, visit cainssaloon.com. Cain’s Saloon, 3239 W.
Liberty Ave., Dormont. 412.561.7444.
Cocktail
Bar
1323 E. Carson St.
RowdyBuck.com
Pittsburgh
412-431-BUCK
facebook.com/RowdyBuckPgh
Vine to Vino
3
3
Opening October 1, Gervasi Vineyard will unveil its new winery and wine bar, The Crush
House! The Canton, Ohio, sprawling estate’s new café-style wine bar and eatery will
provide guests with 13,000-square-feet of space to eat, drink, and relax. Did we mention
the outdoor seating is accompanied by a fireplace? Complementing the stunning interior
is state-of-the-art wine-making equipment, and peek-a-boo views of the winery and
barrel room. And, the second-floor wraparound balcony serves incredible views of the
creek bed and south vineyard. Modestly priced, the menu ranges from $5-12 for a fun
lunch, and with the expansive new tasting bar, tasting plates, and both public and private
wine tours, there is something for everyone. Also being introduced to the menu are
hand-crafted signature cocktails, made with OYO craft spirits, and some unique Italian
and local craft beers! Why not make a weekend out of it and stay in one of the winery’s
24 beautiful suites? Gervasi Vineyard, 1700 55th St. NE, Canton, Ohio. 330.497.1000.
gervasivineyard.com. — Katherine Christoff
Don’t Fear This Beard
www.sesameinn.com
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Loved by many, Redbeard’s has recently debuted its second location! A Pittsburgh
staple locale — the original sits atop Mt. Washington — has opened Downtown as
a Sports Bar & Grill that’s great for game day, before, after, or during. Open seven
days a week from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m., the space offers an extensive menu, including a
killer Reuben (our favorite!), spring rolls, deep fried pickles, and a Kielbasa & Kraut
Sandwich. For those late-night foodies, the kitchen stays open until 1 a.m. Daily
specials include all-you-can-eat crab legs, taco Tuesdays, all-you-can-eat wings,
all-you-can-eat pasta, drafts all day, and a Bloody Mary bar on Sundays. Owner Len
Semplice offers free Wi-Fi, 14 HD TVs, and space for private parties. In fact, we’re
hosting our Perfect Match Party, in conjunction with The Modern Matchmaker,
on September 25. Stop by for a bite! Redbeard’s Sports Bar & Grill, 144 6th St.,
Downtown. 412.261.2324. 201 Shiloh St., Mt. Washington. redbeardspgh.com.
Photograph from Gervasi Vineyard.
Voted Top 25 Best Restaurants in Pit tsburgh
Make a Splash
A self-proclaimed lover of old history, Vito Gerasole acquired the traditional Natrona
Bottling Company almost four years ago in what he calls a “stroke of luck” and a
“gift from God.” The seasoned restaurateur — his family owns Shadyside restaurant
Girasole — decided to buy the old-fashioned soda bottling company after he visited
the plant and fell in love with the entire process. “The creation of the bottles is
fun and eye-catching,” says Gerasole. Natrona Bottling Company offers palatepleasing flavors like cherry, grape, mint julep, and ginger beer, which is its most
popular seller. Since taking the reins, Vito has created two new flavors — vanilla
cream and almond cream. The company is on an advancing course. “Being such
an old company, it really needs coddled,” he says. “I love the hustle and bustle of
the restaurant business, but I really enjoy the tender care I can put into Natrona
Bottling.” The old-fashioned sodas are sold at Wholey’s, Giant Eagle Market District,
Brentwood Distributing, and were just picked up by Burgatory. Natrona Bottling
Company, 91 River Ave., Natrona. 724.224.9224. natronabottlingcompany.com. — K.C.
Spoon’s Spinoff
Spoon owners Rick Stern and Brian Pekarcik are coming Downtown in
November with the opening of Grit & Grace on Liberty Avenue. The American
Dim Sum-style restaurant will feature a selection of small plates, “street food,”
and noodle bowls. “The idea is to share entrées,” says Pekarcik. “It’ll be a very
casual, social, communal, and lively place.” The cocktail and wine list will reflect
the menu with “a nice Saké representation” and “a lot more by the glass.” The
pair says the menu will be reasonably priced at $4-5 for small plates and $1018 for entrées, and that the name is a good representation of the style of food
and drink — think fresh, infused simple syrups. “Some of our offerings will
be polished and refined — and some pretty rustic.” Grit & Grace, 535 Liberty
Ave., Downtown. 412.224.2240. Spoon, 134 S. Highland Ave., East Liberty.
412.362.6001. spoonpgh.com.
Adjace nt to Pe t Smart and Whole Foods in Shadyside
ts
Premier Spory
Bar & Eater
21 HD TVs
33 Rotating Seasonal
Craft & Microbrews
Open 7 Days a Week for
BREAKFAST
LUNCH
DINNER
Kitchen Open until 1AM
7 Days a Week
Pie & Patrons
Johnsonville Italian Sausage is a national favorite pairing up with Pittsburgh
establishments for a delicious combination! Local pizzerias, such as Pesaro’s Pizza,
Casa Del Sole, and Beto’s Pizza, are creating a “specialty” pizza using the company’s
sausage. From September 30-October 27, customers can vote for their favorite at
topthatpittsburgh.com. Once voting has closed, the pizzeria with the most votes will
receive $500 cash and a $500 donation to the charity of their choice, and a Johnsonville
Italian Sausage Top That! Pittsburgh trophy to display. And, the runner-up will receive
$250 cash and $250 to donate. Grab a slice and vote! Johnsonville Italian Sausage,
johnsonvillekitchens.com. — M.D.
Photograph by Cayla Zahoran.
3239 West Liberty Avenue
Dormont, PA 15216
(412)561-7444
CainsSaloon.com
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