RAMBLING GARDEN BLUES part 9 Hello again

RAMBLING GARDEN BLUES part 9
Hello again, welcome to Rambling Garden Blues part 9. In this issue we will be
travelling to Kent to visit the Oare Gunpowder Works Country Park. We will then be
exploring the North Kent Marshes, and looking at some of the plant life that grows
there. But first we visit the Gunpowder Works Country Park at Oare.
The park is situated near the town of Faversham in North Kent. This is not far from
the Isle Of Sheppey. Faversham is a town with much history. I will be telling you a bit
about this later, before that we will take a stroll in the country park. I first visited the
park in August 2009. I went to visit my sister who lives near to Faversham in a town
called Sittingbourne, she took me to visit the park. We visited the park again in
spring 2010. I think it was either April or early May. We have recently paid another
visit to the park. It was in mid-August. The weather was warm, There was some
sunshine some clouds, and a few drops of rain. Still must not grumble, it was an
enjoyable day.
There were some other gunpowder factories in this part of England. For example
there is another one in the town of Faversham. It is a lot smaller than the one at
Oare. It has now been turned into a museum. Both these factories were built around
the 17th century. They provided ammunition for the many wars that took place.
However it wasn’t just at war that people were killed by gunpowder. There have
been nasty explosions in the factories themselves that have killed workers.
Nowadays the Oare Gunpowder Factory is in ruins. It has been turned into a place
of beauty. There are various other gunpowder factories in Britain. There is one in
Surrey, another in Neath South Wales. There is another one in Ayrshire, which is on
the West Coast of Scotland to the south of Glasgow. There were also gunpowder
works at Waltham Cross in Hertfordshire, and another one in Hounslow Middlesex.
Like the Factory’s at Oare and Faversham they were all built around the 17th century,
providing ammunition for the wars that raged. Before we take that stroll round the
park, I will tell you a bit about the history of the gunpowder works.
The earliest reference to gunpowder being produced at the Oare site was in 1694.At
the time French Hugenot Peter Azire was advertising gunpowder as…God shining
and unglazed fine. Gunpowder of all sorts and grains. Peter Azire had fled religious
persecution in France in the 1680s and settled in England. He was then granted a
license to set up a gunpowder mill. He was then joined by fellow French Hugenot
refugee Francis Gurebur. He had also been driven out of France by religious
persecution. He inherited shares in mills,(later known as the Homework’s. ) In 1692
he became involved in production at Oare. Here he worked alongside Peter Azire.
However the production of gunpowder in Faversham goes back some years.
Production is known to have started before 1558. It is speculated that it may have
been started by the last Abbot of Faversham- John Caslock - in the period 1499 1538. Making this the earliest production site in Britain. It has been said that 36
barrels of gunpowder made at Faversham, were used by Guy Fawkes and the other
conspirators, in their plot to blow up the old Houses of Parliament in
1605. Production of gunpowder at Oare was to continue until 1934 when the plant
closed. The factory then fell into ruins and nature took over. In 2004 sensitive
intervention was introduced to ensure conservation and improvement of the site as a
wildlife habitat. The site has become a place of wild beauty.
Anyway we will now take a walk around the park. We arrive at the car park, I don’t
know if the park is accessible by public transport, I think there is a bus that goes
there. But you will need to check for details. I can’t remember myself. By the car
park is the visitors centre and public toilets. The visitors centre is only open at
weekends. On two of my visits I bought some postcards there. The visitors centre
also has an exhibition on the history of the gunpowder works. One case includes
relics that had been buried in the ground at Oare. The other visit took place on a
weekday. From the visitors centre we take the path into the park. Here we are
greeted by an abundance of nature and wildlife.
The plants listed as growing here are Bluebells, a relative of the Hyacinth that
brightens the woods in early spring with its delightful blue flowers. They are a native
of Kent woodlands as they are in other parts of England. Their flowers appearing
before the leaves have opened on the trees. As they feel inspired by the sunlight that
shines through the budding branches.
Other plants growing here are, Common reed, Dogs mercury, Greater pond sedge,
Harts tongue fern a plant that resembles the tropical Birds nest fern that we grow as
a house plant. Indeed they both are related as the both come from the Asplenium
family. Then there is Lesser celandine, a relative of the buttercup. Soft shield fern, a
semi evergreen plant that that likes to grow in shaded deciduous woodland, in
hedgerows, and beside shaded streams. It likes to grow on a slope, or on welldrained soil. Also here is the robust Spear thistle. Wood anemone, one of the first
spring plants in the woodland to greet us with its flowers. Yellow archangel, wild
angelica, Bulrush, Wood small-reed, Yellow Iris, Water mint, Mosses and Lichens.
Mosses give some plants the nutrients that they need to grow, should they be
covering a wall or a rock. They also offer a place for some seeds to germinate.
Lichens are the combination of two organisms, fungi and algae, which live together
intimately, Lichens like sunny sheltered places. They are found on the ground, on
stonework or brickwork, on trees and fence posts. Lichens are regarded as very
goods indicators of pollution levels.
I have seen two other plants growing here. One of them is Ground Ivy. This is not
related to other ivy’s that grow wild in England. The other plant is the native English
Primrose. This plant is smaller than the primroses that we buy as spring bedding or
container plants. It has yellow flowers at the top of a stem. Though this wild primrose
does also flower in the springtime. One relative of the primrose that I am very fond of
is the Cowslip. Cowslips grow in abundance along the grass embankments of
nearby motorways. I don’t know if they were planted or if the seeds found their own
way there. But they are a delight to see in the springtime.
The trees and shrubs listed as growing at Oare are as follows: Ash, the wood of this
tree is much used in building. Brambles, this being a rapidly spreading shrub, from
the same family as the rose. Like a rose this is quite a vicious shrub with its thorns.
However it is of course quite different in appearance from a rose. It scrambles about
climbing through the other shrubbery. Brambles have their redeeming features. In the
autumn after a long flowering season it produces Blackberries. A fruit that I am quite
fond of. Bees feed on the pollen and nectar from its flowers. Migrating birds enjoy the
ripe fruit before they fly off to a warmer climate for winter. Small mammals nest in the
tangled growth. This gives them protection from predators. If you are planning to go
out collecting blackberries wear boots and protect yourself from the thorns. But enjoy
the fruit that you pick. Perhaps you could make a nice blackberry pie.
Also coming from the rose family is Dog Rose. The arching branches clambering
through shrubby areas, lighting up the woodland with its beautiful flowers. Does
anyone remember Rose Hip Syrup that you were given as a child when you were
unwell, along with castor oil and other such treats? [I think we dodged Castor Oil but
Rose Hip Syrup was a regular thing for sure – Ed]
Another fruiting shrub growing here in abundance is Elder. Birds eat the berries and
spread the seeds everywhere. In tradition the white flowers are used to make
Elderflower champagne and the berries to make jam and wine. A number of different
trees and shrubs are growing in abundance here. There is Hawthorn a tree that
brightens the month of May with its flowers. Then there is Holly. A shrub that
brightens wintertime with its red berries.
The Horse Chestnut grows here at Oare. It is recognizable by its large candles of
flowers that appear in late spring. Also growing here are oak trees. A couple of
species being native to Brittan. Then there are Secuoia trees, they are sometimes
called the Californian Redwood and were introduced to Brittan in 1853. It can grow
very tall. Sliver Birch is a tree that is common to England. It has long been used to fill
the gaps in woodland. It is a strong tree, but it has a lifespan of 60 to 80 years. This
is relativity short in the world of trees. The Sweet Chestnut is not related to the Horse
Chestnut. But like the Horse Chestnut will grow into a big tree. In many parts of Kent
including Oare the trees have been coppiced. About every fifteen years the tree is cut
down. The new shoots are used for hop poles, fencing posts or fuel. Sycamore grows
here at Oare. With its winged seeds flying around it speeds rapidly. When I was
young we called Sycamore seeds helicopters.
Experts say the tree may have been introduced to Brittan by the Romans. Willows
grow by the lakes and other damp places. In the spring their catkins offer a welcome
source of nectar and pollen to flying insects. Another tree listed as growing here is
Wych Elm. Its wood is hard and resistant to water.
When they aren’t considered to be a danger to the public, fallen trees are left to
decompose here. This encourages insects. The decaying trees can also provide a
place for plants to grow.
There are six different species of Bats at Oare. They live in the old buildings where
they can hibernate through the winter months in undisturbed peace. In spring,
summer and autumn, they feast on insects that fly around at dusk and dawn. With all
this feasting they build up a layer of fat. This is an energy resource that helps them
through the winter. Other mammals that live here include Hedgehogs, Foxes,
Badgers and Bank Moles.
Many birds live here at Oare. In the woodland we find Blackbirds, Robins and
Dunnocks. They can be seen foraging for food, and in the spring they can be seen
building nests to raise their young. The Great Spotted Woodpeckers search for their
food in the trees, while Green Woodpeckers are often in grassy areas searching for
Ants to eat. In the winter feeding flocks of Long Tailed Tits, Blue Tits and Chaffinches
are often seen. It is said that close observation of these flocks may reveal other
species as well. Kingfishers dart through the woods, stopping to feed on the small
fish and invertebrates that live in the water. Sometimes they perch on twigs
overhanging the water making their distinctive call. Coots nest visibly at the edge of
the water. However Moorhens make sure that their nests are well hidden. The Grey
Herron is often seen standing guard over the water. As it watches for Frogs, Fish,
and Insects to eat.
In spring and summer migratory birds arrive. For a short period they fill the woods
with their birdsong. Then they raise their young. This is quite time consuming for
small birds like the Chiffchaff, and the Sedge Warbler. The Cuckoo will most likely be
heard here in springtime. The reed beds give home to migrant warblers like the Reed
Bunting. While other migrant birds like Swallows, House Martins, and Swifts, may be
seen in the skies over water feeding on insects. In the autumn these birds gather in
large groups as they prepare to move south. The woodlands at Oare can support
migratory birds like woodcocks, Fieldfares, (a bird from the thrush family), and
Redwings. They can over winter in undisturbed parts of the woods. Other birds like
Goldcrests, and Redpolis may be seen or heard in the trees during the cold weather.
Last time I visited Oare I saw a pair of Swans with their children sailing across one of
the lakes.
A number of reptiles and Amphibians live here at Oare. The Amphibians include the
Common Frog, Toads, the Smooth Newt and the Great Crested Newt. There are
Grass Snakes here. On my last trip to Oare I read somewhere about Adders living
here. Like the Grass Snake they will move away from disturbance. They are only of
danger to you if you are a Toad or a Frog, unless you strayed from the paths and
trampled through the undergrowth. If you do it may be wise to wear protective boots.
There are many Insects and invertebrates at Oare. In the summer many Butterflies
glide through the grassy glades during the Summer, while the Dragonfly hovers over
the water. There are Slugs and Snails living here. They are a pest if they get in your
garden. Spiders of all sizes live in the trees and ruined buildings, building their strong
but delicate webs. Waiting for any insect foolish enough to drop in for a chat. Oare
can provide visitors with information on the following insects. Azure Damselfly ,
Common Blue Damselfly, Banded Demoiselle Damselfly. Common Darter Dragonfly,
Southern Hawker Dragonfly, Emperor Dragonfly, Broad- Bodied chaser Dragonfly. A
wealth of small invertebrates spend most of their lives in the water here. Oare can
provide information about the following. Water Boatman also known as the Common
Backswimmer, Pond Skater, Screech Beetle, Pea Mussel, and the Ramshorn Snail.
The Butterflies that Oare can provide information about are as follows. Brimstone
Butterfly, Comma Butterfly, Peacock Butterfly, Red Admiral Butterfly, Speckled Wood
Butterfly, Small Tortoiseshell Butterfly. Oare also provides home to Wasps and Bees,
Ants and Beetles, Grasshoppers and sometimes Crickets. The latter two will be
chirping away in the grass on a sunny day. There is no doubt a lot more insect life
going on here than I have listed.
Anyway we now take a walk around Oare gunpowder works country park. After
leaving the car park we pass by the visitors centre, then we enter the park. Walking
to the east I think, it is very wooded. Lots of brambles and nettles here. I don’t know
if they are stinging nettles or dead nettles, but they grow rapidly. Just off the path we
see a clearing. Here is a rather big lake. This lake gives home and food to many
birds, also no doubt to other water creatures as well. It is a tranquil sight to see.
Sadly the tranquility is spoilt a bit by the hum of traffic from a nearby main road. Long
gone are the days when Mr Toad from Toad Hall, would drive his sports car down
country lanes disturbing the peace of the English countryside.
But this is England in the 21st century. It is possible to shut the noise out and to enjoy
the day.
Anyway we leave the lake and walk a bit further down the path. Here we come to a
smaller lake . Like the other lake this is home to many water creatures. It is also
home to plants that either grows by the edge of the water, or in the water. Sadly
people also seem to dump rubbish in this lake. This does spoil things a bit. Here we
take a path to the left and climb up a small hill. At the top we find some old buildings,
they are home to the Bats. They are small Bats and they fly in through small windows
and gaps. A little further on we come to a large collection of Ferns. The two types of
Ferns mentioned earlier are here. They are growing out of old buildings and on
embankments by the path. The bricks of the buildings hold water, and there is a lot of
water nearby. A number of the ferns on the embankment had masses of dead leaves
and leaf stems hanging down from the bottom of the plants. These probably keep the
plants warm in winter. All this time we are walking under a canopy of trees through
which the sunlight filters. The water that I mentioned a little while back is a series of
canals. They were used by the gunpowder factory when it was in operation. The
canals are now more or less stagnant and thick with algae. This is a good breeding
ground for insects. In turn this gives food to the bats and some of the birds.
Above all this is another level. There are less trees here, but there are a lot of plants
growing. I remember seeing a lot of Ground Ivy here. There are also some more
remnants of the Gunpowder works here. After this we make our way back down to
the visitors centre and car park. We drive off home after an enjoyable day at the Oare
Gunpowder Works Country Park. We will stay in the area for a while and visit
Faversham.
Faversham is a market town that grew up around an ancient sea port on Faversham
Creek. . It would go on to be the birthplace of the explosives industry in England.
Anyway here is a little history. Faversham was established as a settlement before the
roman conquest. It was held in royal demesne in 811, and is further cited in a charter
granted by Kenulf. The King of Mercia. It was recorded in the Doomsday Book as
Faversham. In 1148 Faversham Abbey was established by King Stephen. At this time
Faversham was a very important settlement, it even became the capital of England
for a short while. Among the few surviving buildings of Faversham Abbey are two
barns at Abbey Farm. The smaller barn dating from 1425, the larger barn dates from
1476. Then there is the Abbey Farmhouse, the Abbey Guesthouse, now known as
Ardens House, a private residence in Abbey Street, was the location of the infamous
murder of Thomas Arden in 1551. The Faversham Almshouses were founded and
endowed by Thomas Mendfield in 1614 and exist to this day.
Kent is the centre of Hop-Growing in England, and Faversham became home to
three breweries. They were Fremlins, Whitbread, and Shepherd Neame. Of these
only the Shepherd Neame Brewery survives. Founded in 1698 it claims to be the
oldest brewery in Britain and continues to be family- owned. Having drunk Shepherd
Neame larger, I can tell you that they make strong larger. Not as strong as Tenants
Super but strong enough.
The years during the First World War was an uncertain time for the breweries. The
scarcity of labour became evident from 1915, as a number of employees turned to
offers of higher wages in other employment, including the local ammunition works.
Another industry that blossomed in Faversham was a shipyard. Established in 1916
by James Pollock& Sons (Shipbuilders) at the request of Lord Fisher, the First Lord
of The Admiralty. Faversham already had a tradition in shipbuilding, and it soon
became a major contributor to markets throughout the world. Between 1916 and the
shipyards closure in 1969, over 1200)) ships were built and launched from
Faversham. The town is built on a creek near the Thames estuary.
Another point of interest in Faversham is in the previously mentioned Abbey Street in
the centre of town. Here there is a remarkable collection of original medieval houses.
They survived threats of demolition and became listed buildings. Also in the centre of
Faversham is the Fleur de Lis centre. Here is a museum showing the history of
Faversham, from its beginnings up to present times. I think Fleur de Lis is French for
Flowers of the Forest, or Lilly’s of the Forest. [In French, fleur de lis literally means
"lily flower". It is widely thought to be a stylized version of the species Iris
pseudacorus – Wikipedia Ed]. There is a street in Spittalfields East London called
Fleur de Lis Street. There was also an underrated band from the 1960s called the
Fleur de Lis.. They are sometimes known as Les Fleur de Lis. The original line up all
came from Southampton. They were around from the early 1960s until the end of the
decade. They wrote a lot of their material. But they also recorded a version of the
Who song Circles, and a version of The Gong With The Luminous Nose, written by
Victorian poet Edward Lear. The Fleur de Lis also made some records under the
name Rupert’s People. [Keyboard player Pete Sears was a founding member of
Jefferson Starship – Interfering Ed]] .
For now we say goodbye to Faversham. But we stay in the area as we explore the
North Kent marshes. They start just outside Greater London just to the north of
Dartford and to the east of Erith. Here the River Darenth runs into the Thames. The
area is dotted with factories, and is the location for the Joyce Green Hospital, On the
east side of the River Darenth lie Dartford Fresh Water Marshes. Then on the west
side is Crayford Marshes. Here the River Cray joins the River Darenth. Crayford is a
town to the west of Dartford, through which the River Cray flows. It seems that there
must have a ford here once. A ford being how people crossed rivers, back in the old
days. To the north of this we have Dartford Salt Marshes. Further west on the edge of
London lies Thamesmead. This was once marshland too. The QEII road bridge
crosses the River Thames by Dartford Salt Marshes. I have been getting information
from an old king-size A to Z. Possibly from the early 1980s. But checking on the
internet Dartford Salt Marshes continue to flourish. In relation to Dartford Salt
Marshes, it seems that salt water comes quite a way up the River Thames. But there
is a town on the north side of the River Thames to the west of Tilbury called Grays.
There was a time when people used to go there for their holidays, there being a
beach there. Anyway to the west of Grays opposite Dartford is a large expanse of
marshland. This starts at Rainham, a town just to the west of Dagenham, It continues
down to Purfleet. The marshes on the north side of the River Thames then continue
just past Tilbruy. To the east of Dartford lies Greenhithe then Swanscome. Here we
find Swanscome Marshes then Botany Marshes. Having read an article on the
internet written by someone who walked along the River Thames from Dartford to
Northfleet while he followed a path along the banks of the River Thames, he said
how on his journey he encountered the obstacle of a new housing estate which was
under construction. He explained how when he tried to walk through it he kept
coming to dead ends. It took him quite a while to find his way round the housing
complex. After he had found his way round the complex he walked across
Swanscombe Marsh and Botany Marsh, after which he found himself on an
industrial Road called Manor Way. Luckily just above the road is a footpath which
helped him get away from the industry. I am not saying this to put off anyone who
chooses to take this walk, but beware of the obstacles that stand along the way. This
gentleman’s article was most interesting. At Northfleet stands Ebbsfleet station on
the Channel Tunnel railway. It lies just behind Northfleet station. Northfleet station is
served by trains travelling from Charring Cross and the Medway Towns. In the
recently mentioned article the gentleman commented on how rundown Northfleet
station is in comparison to the modern Ebbsfleet station.
Travelling east from Northfleet we come to Gravesend. This town stands on the River
Thames opposite Tilbury. A ferry runs back and forth across the River Thames
between Tilbury and Gravesend. there is also an interesting pier on the river here.
Travelling through Gravesend on the train the town seems a bit run down, and there
is industry scattered along the Thames. However to the south of Gravesend are the
North Downs. This is very pleasant undulating countryside. The line from Victoria to
the Kent coast runs a few miles to the south of Gravesend. On the south side of the
railway line is some beautiful countryside rolling off into the distance. Anyway back to
Gravesend. After leaving Gravesend on the train we pass Gravesend Marshes. They
are rather flat and desolate looking. A railway line branches off here and travels
across the marshes. Gravesend Marshes lead on to Cliffe Marshes, Higham
Marshes, and the Isle Of Grain. The train then turns to the south east and stops at
Higham station. It then travels through the Higham tunnel coming out into daylight
again at Stroud. After stopping at Stroud station, it joins on to the line from Victoria
and crosses the River Medway to Rochester, Chatham, and Gillingham, where the
trains from Charring Cross terminate. Another line from Stroud follows the River
Medway to Maidstone. The line from Victoria carries on past Gillingham, terminating
at either Ramsgate. or Dover, trains divide at Faversham. The River Medway at
Rochester is quite a magnificent sight. While marshes run along the Thames estuary,
a little way inland there are chalk cliffs. This explains the previously mentioned
Higham tunnel that trains pass through on their journey between Higham and Stroud.
On the train journey between Rochester and Gillingham there are three tunnels.
There is a stretch between Chatham and Gillingham where the railway goes up on a
viaduct. On the south side of the railway are many terraced streets going off into the
distance. Apart from this stretch of viaduct the train passes through cuttings and
tunnels. After Gillingham the landscape is less hilly.
The marshes carry on along both sides of the Swale. The Swale being a stretch of
water that comes off the Medway near Sheerness and goes round the Isle of
Sheppey to come out into the Thames estuary again. The previously mentioned
Faversham Creek comes off the Swale, near where it flows back into the Thames.
The marshes then carry on eastwards as far as the Seaside resort of Whitstable.
Anyway we will return to the Isle Of Grain for a while. During the late 1990s New
Labour had plans to build a housing scheme called Thames Gateway along this
stretch of marshland. Thankfully nothing came from the idea. However now there is a
new threat to the marshes. There are plans to turn a part of these marshes into a
new London Airport. This is of great concern. The marshes act as a flood plain
should the Thames overflow. They are home to many birds and much plant life. In
their own way they have a beauty, a bit desolate but beautiful all the same. There
are many reasons why they should be protected. The Isle Of Grain was the setting
for the first part of Charles Dickens story Great Expectations. Young Pip grew up
here. He meets an escaped convict from a prison ship that was moored out in the
Thames estuary. Pip befriends the man who in turn pays for young Pips education.
Everyone thought it was Miss Faversham who paid for Pip but all along it was the
escaped convict. Sorry but I can’t remember the man’s name at the moment. Kent
did seem to feature in some of Charles Dickens work. Was Miss Faversham. named
after the town with the same name? [Abel Magwitch – Dickensian Ed] Mr Pickwick
used to like taking coach journeys out into Kent. There are two Charles Dickens
museums in Kent. One is in Rochester, the other is in the seaside town of
Broadstairs.
A few years back I went to visit some friends who live on the Isle of Sheppey. They
live in Queensbrough on the north west of the island near Sheerness. We went out to
the south east of the island to visit some marshes I believe they are called Elmley
Marshes. As the Swale makes its way around the island it carries salt water from the
Thames estuary on the north west of the island, to the Thames estuary on the north
east of the island. In the south west part of the island the road and railway cross over
the Swale. The modern road bridge being an impressive sight. This part of the island
is dotted with industry, as is Sheerness. Though not as much industry as there used
to be. As the Swale moves to the east we come to the marshland. First we travel
through some flat fields with sheep grazing in them. There are a number of dykes
running through these fields. There had been no rain for a while so the dykes were
nearly dry. I imagine that it gets very bleak here in the winter. But it is also very
atmospheric countryside. You wouldn’t think of finding such a wilderness so close to
London. After we travel past these fields we come to a car park. We then take a
short walk down to the Swale, and what a spectacular sight greets us. Due to the
lack of rain the Swale was a lot smaller than it normally is. This left a lot of muddy
ground and a river in the middle. However leading down to the Swale was a beach.
There were many rocks here. Amongst these rocks growing out of a mixture of sand
and seaweed, were a number of interesting plants. They spend some of their time in
salt water, and some of their time on dry land. For me they resembled succulent
plants. I found out the names of some of these plants. But being untidy I have lost
some of notes. There is a down side to being untidy. For me one plant resembled an
Opuntia (Prickly Pear) without the spines. Another plant I felt resembled a shrubby
Crassula. The Crassula family contains a large number of succulent plants from
South Africa, including the ever popular Money Plant. However I have read that the
family also contains some aquatic plants. Plants that live in water. I don’t know if it is
just freshwater, or if there are any that grow in saltwater. Could this plant be related?
There was another shrubby plant with green leaves and many yellow flowers. I have
found the name for this one, It is called Golden Samphire. There was another plant
there that is called Sorrel. This plant reminded me of Heather only a lot bigger. It was
growing in colours of red, orange and green. There were other plants that I can’t
remember so well. But all these plants were scattered in abundance all over this
beach. Walking back to the car park there was a lot of Bindweed scrambling through
the grass. It was a different type of Bindweed from the one we usually see. There
was a plant also growing in the grass that resembled a Dandelion, but the leaves had
little spines in them. I found out that they are related to the Dandelion. But being
untidy I have lost my notes, so I can’t tell you the plants name. It was an enjoyable
day that introduced me to some plants that I had not been unaware of before.
Golden Samphire
Sorrel
On the opposite side of the Thames to the North Kent Marshes are Canvey Island
and Southend. Two places that have made important contributions to the music
world. In the early 1970s Canvey Island gave us Doctor Feelgood, Eddie and the Hot
Rods, and harmonica player Lew Lewis. Artists who while coming from a blues and
rhythm and blues background helped to pave the way for punk. Their down to earth
no nonsense attitude being an alternative to the aloofness that went with some
progressive rock artists, and sometimes their fans too.
Yes, I do like some of what would be called progressive rock. Patto, and Spooky
Tooth being two examples. Southend gave us the Kursaal Flyers. The band were
named after the Kursaal Ballroom. Having been in Southend during the summer, I
can tell you that the Kursaal Ballroom is still standing. They had a singer called Paul
Shuttleworth who used to dress as a spiv, an effective image. In the mid 70s they had
a hit with a song called Little Does She Know. The song was set in a Launderette.
Not a place that has been the setting for many songs. But it is a place that many of
us have spent a lot of time during our lives. Unfortunately the band never survived
the punk years but I felt they had the potential to do so. Characters like Ian Dury
became popular during the punk years, there could have been room for the Kursal
Flyers. But they were part of the pub rock scene that helped to pave the way for
punk. There are probably other artists from Southend who became popular in that
time, that I have forgotten about. [Oh No Frank – I feel a Kursaal Flyers article
coming on now! Pub Rock Ed. Paul and a few of the others are still active, check out
The Ugly Guys, also of course drummer Will Birch is an excellent writer and Graeme
Douglas is still playing and recording]
From the early 1960s Southend produced a band called the Paramounts. They
played the rhythm and blues and soul music that was popular at the time. Their piano
player Garry Brooker was also a fine singer. In the autumn of 1966 Guy Stevens
introduced Garry Brooker to a young poet called Keith Reid. As a result we had
Procol Harum and A Whiter Shade Of Pale. Guy Stevens named them after his cat.
Procol Harum went on to make many more recordings well into the seventies. At one
point all the Paramount’s featured in the bands line up. I feel they made some fine
albums along the way. [Here here]
It would take a whole article to write about Guy Stevens and his achievements, but
here are a few things. In the early to mid 1960s He ran the British branch of Sue
records. Sue records was founded in America in 1957 by a chap called Henry Juggy
Murray. The label was releasing the soul and rhythm and blues music of the day. Guy
Stevens worked alongside Chris Blackwell’s’ Island label. At that time Island was
promoting Jamaican music. Ska or Blue Beat as we called it in Brittan. Guy Stevens
Sue label was promoting American Rhythm and Blues Soul, and Blues music, much
of which came via the American Sue label. Guy was keen to make the records
available here. In this he introduced us to a lot of great records, and a lot of artists we
may otherwise have not heard about. At this time he was a DJ at the Scene Club in
London’s West End running a Monday night session, playing soul, rhythm and blues,
ska and blues. He would have an audience of mods and afro Caribbean youths.
Artist’s like the Beatles and Eric Clapton would often be in the audience checking out
the latest sounds that Guy Stevens was playing, In this he influenced both the British
Beat groups and the R&B bands of the time, in doing so he influenced the British
music invasion of America that took place in the mid-sixties. Guy Stevens was a
popular figure amongst the Mods. I was never a mod, but I was into the music that
they liked. I became a teenager in the 1960s and while Sue records came from
America, hearing this music broke through some of the phobias that we had towards
the people who were coming to Brittan from the Caribbean at the time. Guy promoted
his music with great enthusiasm. The list of artist that Stevens introduced an English
audience to was vast. They included Ike and Tina Turner, this was before River Deep
and Mountain High. Also the excellent brother and sister duo Inez and Charlie Foxx.
They are best known for the song Mockingbird, a hit for Sue records when they
released it as a single in 1963. A song that a number of people have recorded over
the years. The b side of Mockingbird titled A Stranger To Love is a beautiful song.
Then there was The Harlem Shuffle by Bob and Earl, and Shotgun Wedding by Roy
C, a big hit in England in 1966. Through Sue Guy Stevens was also promoting the
deep soul of artists like OV Wright and Baby Washington. There was blues from
artists like Lowell Fulsom, Elmore James, Louisiana Red, and JB Lenoir. Also some
of the greats from Chess Records, like Chuck Berry, Bo Diddley, Howling Wolf and
Sonny Boy Williamson, and much more. In the early 60s Guy Stevens got Chuck
Berry out of prison on bail so he could do his first tour of Brittan. Chuck Berry had
some hits in Brittan in the mid 60s. There was Memphis Tennessee and No Particular
Place To Go. Being born in 1951 and coming into my teens in the 1960s these two
songs were my introduction to Chuck Berry. I had heard groups like the Beatles play
Chuck Berry songs. In 1963 Dave Berry and the Cruisers had a hit with Memphis
Tennessee. But hearing the man himself and seeing his duck walk on television was
great.
In the late 1960s Guy Stevens got busted on a drug offence and spent a while in
prison. When he was released from prison he found that his treasured record
collection had been stolen. This was understandably a big shock for him. He started
suffering with severe depression. He also started struggling with alcoholism. In 1969
he was involved in the formation of Mott The Hoople. The story behind Mott The
Hoople has a history that went back some years. A band called The Silence
approached Guy Stevens to produce them. The Silence started in the mid 60s, at this
time they were known as The Shakedown Sound. In 1967 the Shakedown Sound
became the backing group for Jamaican singer Jimmy Cliff. At this time Jimmy Cliff
was living in England. Chris Blackwell the boss of Island records had brought him
here in 1964. Is this where the line in the song Many Rivers To Cross about the white
cliffs of Dover comes from? [There’s a Mojo article where he talks about this, it’s not
quite homesickness but I need to dig it out to remember more - Ed] Did Jimmy Cliff
and the Shakedown Sound make any records together? [Verden Allen for one played
on one track on Cliff's Island album Hard Road To Travel, not sure about the rest.
Ed].
From what I have read about Jimmy Cliff and the Shakedown Sound they were quite
a popular act around the clubs. Jimmy Cliff went back to Jamaica and had a hit with
Wonderful World Beautiful People. He also recorded a great album for Trojan
records. I used to have a copy. The Shakedown Sound changed their name to The
Silence. In 1968 their bass player Overend Watts auditioned for the job as bass
player in Free. A band that Guy Stevens was producing at the time. Overend Watts
didn’t get the job. However he noticed that when the band were nodding their heads
as they played Guy would be nodding along, like he was a part of the band. The
Silence then approached Guy Stevens to produce them. Guy liked the band but
didn’t think their singer Stan Tippins was that good. Stan got moved to the job of
road manager. It has been said that Stan was happy to make this career move. Guy
then put out adverts for a new singer and piano player. One of the people to audition
was Ian Hunter. At the time Ian Hunter was working in a factory. He came to the
audition with long hair, a donkey jacket and dark glasses. Guy was taken by the dark
glasses and Ian Hunter got the job. To this day he still wears those dark glasses in
photos. Ian Hunter also speaks highly of Guy Stevens and the help he gave him in
getting his music career of the ground. It was Guy Stevens who named the band Mott
The Hoople. This being the title of a book that he had read while in prison.
I read somewhere that Guy Stevens wanted Mott The Hoople to be a cross between
Bob Dylan and Jerry Lee Lewis. On Mott The Hoople’s self-titled first album from the
autumn of 1969 you can hear some of his vision. Guy went on to produce Motts
second album Mad Shadows. One working title for the album was Sticky Fingers.
However the Rolling Stones used the title for their own album. It is said that some of
Mad Shadows was recorded live in the studio. This was how Guy Stevens liked to
work. The next Mott The Hoople album titled Wildlife was produced by the band
themselves. For their fourth album titled Brain Capers the band returned to Guy
Stevens. Sadly Guy Stevens had a destructive side, and due to his wild behavior he
started to fall out with Islands boss Chris Blackwell. At this point Mott the Hoople
were on the verge of splitting up. However David Bowie came to the rescue giving
them a song called All The Young Dudes. It became a big hit and Mott The Hooples
career took off. They had some more hits. They were able to fit in with the Glam Rock
movement of the time. Some of their songs had an anthem like quality to them. As
such I felt they had an influence on the Clash. I think Clash guitarist Mick Jones has
a Mott the Hoople connection, but I can’t think what it is. [“I followed Mott the Hoople
up and down the country. I’d go to Liverpool or Newcastle or somewhere—sleep on
the Town Hall steps, and bunk the fares on the trains, hide in the toilet when the
ticket inspector came around. I’d jump off just before the train got to the station and
climb over the fence. It was great times, and I always knew I wanted to be in a band
and play guitar. That was it for me” Mick Jones who went on to do some production
work with Hunter too – Ed].
In 1973 guitarist Mick Ralphs left Mott The Hoople to form Bad Company with singer
Paul Rodgers and drummer Simon Kirke both from Free, and a bass player called
Boz who I don’t know much about, apart from the fact that he spent a while in King
Crimson.
[Sorry to keep interrupting but Boz Burrell was one of my all-time favorite bass
players http://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/boz-burrell-417457.html
although curiously this doesn’t mention Alexis Korners Snape the band I first saw
Box play in – Ed]
Mick Ralphs was replaced by Spooky Tooth guitarist Luther Grosvenor. Another band
with Guy Stevens connections. While he was with Mot the Hoople he changed his
name to Ariel Bender. The name was suggested by singer Lindsey De Paul. A while
later Ian Hunter left to work with ex Spiders From Mars guitarist Mick Ronson, and
then to pursue a solo career. Mott The Hoople shortened their name to Mott, then
became the British Lions. They carried on until the end of the 1970s. In 1979 the
Clash were recording their then new album London Calling. They wanted to broaden
their sound, so they asked Guy Stevens to produce the album. Trusting in his musical
knowledge they asked him to help them in their quest. Guy wanted to get the best
performance he could out of the band. This included throwing chairs at the band
while they were playing. By this time Guy was struggling badly with his alcohol
problems, but he got on well with the Clash. In 1976 they had called on Guy to
produce some demos but it hadn’t worked out. However they valued Guys
knowledge of music. So respect to the Clash for giving him another go.
Guy Stevens died in August 1981 from an overdose of tranquilizers that he was
taking to help him drink less. People who met him in the last year or so of his life
described him as talking incoherently, and usually say that they knew his story was
coming to an end. Had he managed to give up drinking would he have found a new
beginning? Whatever the answer Guy Stevens started a lot of positive things that are
still going on today. For example a lot of the records that he released through Sue
records and played as a DJ, are still being played and danced to on the Northern
Soul circuit, where people continue to keep the faith. Then there is the legacy that
Mott The Hoople left behind. They have been an influential band over the years. Guy
Stevens was there at their beginnings. While the song a Whiter Shade Of Pale has
overshadowed everything else that Procol Harum have done, It will always be
remembered as a landmark of its time. It was Guy Stevens introducing Gary Brooker
to Keith Reed that set the ball rolling. In an article on Guy Stevens that I once read
Ian Hunter described him as a very special person. Guy Stevens was born in East
Dulwich South London in 1943, he supported Arsenal football team.
Now we travel back to Kent for a short while, to take a look at some of the music that
has come out of Kent. My knowledge of music from Kent is limited, but I know a little
bit. The Medway towns and in particular Chatham, have given us Billy Childish and
his many bands. The Milkshakes, The Mighty Caesars, Thee Headcoats, The Buff
Medways etc. Chatham has also given the world garage punk legend Sexton Ming.
Closer to Greater London, Dartford has produced Mick and Keef from the Rolling
Stones, also the Pretty Things. Their guitarist Dick Taylor was in an early Stones line
up. Another band from the Dartford area was Bern Elliot and the Fenmen. They
formed in 1961 and spent a lot of time playing in Hamburg and at the Cavern Club in
Liverpool. In 1963 they had a hit with the Tamla Motown song Money. In early 1964
they released a version of Garry US Bonds song New Orleans. That March they
promoted the song on the television programme Ready Steady Go. However the
Fenmen parted company with Bern Elliot. He formed a new group called Bern Elliot
and the Klan. The Fenmen continued on their own for a while. Two members of the
Fenmen joined the Pretty Things around 1967. Dartford also gave us Sounds
Incorporated.
Like Bern Elliot and the Fenmen Sounds Incorporated were formed in 1961. Due the
fullness of their saxophone led sound, they were sometimes known as the Dartford
Wall Of Sound. In 1961 Gene Vincent’s backing band the Blue Caps got refused
permission to work in Brittan. As a result Sounds Incorporated won the opportunity to
back Gene Vincent. This led to opportunities to back other visiting American artists
including Little Richard, Jerry Lee Lewis, Brenda Lee,(at the time she was known as
little Miss Dynamite), and Sam Cooke. In the 1960s there was a musicians Union
Law that stopped some American acts from bringing their backing groups over with
them. A number of British bands got jobs backing these artists. For example There
was Sonny Boy Williams the 2nd and the Yardbirds John Lee Hooker and the
Groundhogs and Carl Perkins and the Nashville Teens. There were bands who were
regularly employed as backing groups for visiting American singers. A few examples
are The Mike Cotton Sound, Johnny B Great And the Quotations, and Tony Knight’s
Chessmen, A group that featured a young Lol Coxhill. There is a clip on you tube of
Tony Knight’s Chessmen backing Rufus Thomas, Lol Coxhill looking cool with his
shaved head and dark glasses.
Sounds Incorporated made one single on the Parlophone label, then they moved to
Decca. Here they recorded a trio of singles. The third single Keep Moving was
produced by Joe Meek, unfortunately it failed to reach the charts. Like other bands of
that era they served an apprenticeship in Hamburg. Here they met and befriended
the Beatles. In 1963 this led to them being singed to Brian Epstein’s management
company NEMS. In 1963 they also appeared as musical guests in the film, Live It Up.
Their first two singles on their new label Columbia The Spartans and Spanish Harlem
made the singles charts in 1964. They were the bands only hits in Brittan. However
their next single a version of the “William Tell Overture reached number 2 in
Australia. Sounds Incorporated toured the world with the Beatles, where they were
the Fab Fours opening act. They also became Cilla Blacks backing group. Their
continuing popularity gave them much work. This included backing artists at the 1964
NME pool winners concert. In December 1964 the band appeared in the Beatles
Christmas show at the Hammersmith Odeon. That year they also released their first
album called Sounds Incorporated. The band used some unusual instruments. The
song they recorded for Joe Meek “Keep Moving“, and their previous single “Sounds
Like Locomotion” both featured the battery operated keyboard known as the
Clavioline. An instrument used by the Tornados. It can be heard on their big hit
Telstar. The lead melody to another of their singles “The Spartans” was played
throughout on a flute.
In 1966 the band released their second album. Like the first album it was simply
known as Sounds Incorporated. In 1967 the band shortened their name to Sounds
Inc. The band had kept their friendship with the Beatles, and their saxophone section
featuring Alan Boots Holmes, Major Griff West, and Barrie Cameron, became the
saxophone section on the Sergeant Pepper track, Good Morning, Good Morning.
They then released a solitary single on the Polydor label. Titled “How Do You Feel” it
was their first single to feature vocals. However the band was starting to disintegrate.
Drummer Tony Newman left to do session work before joining the Jeff Beck Group.
He replaced Mick Waller who left to join a blues band from Worthing called
Steamhamer. The first drummer in the Jeff Beck Group was Aynsley Dunbar who
went on to join John Mayall’s Bluesbreakers. He played alongside Peter Green on
the Hard Road album. When the Jeff Beck Group split up, Rod and Ron Wood went
on to become a part of The Faces. Tony Newman went on to form a hard rock band
called May Blitz. They released two albums on the Vertigo label in the early 1970s. I
should explain here that Sounds Incorporated bass player was Wes Hunter , and
their guitarist was John St John. The band got a new drummer Terry Frog, and their
first true vocalist Trevor White. They carried on, working mostly in Australia. In 1971
they finally split up. Watching this fine instrumental band on you tube, has brought
back memories of seeing them on television in the mid 1960s..
That’s all for now. Next time we travel down the Kingston By Pass and out into the
wilds of Surrey to explore the recently built greenhouse at Wisely Gardens. We also
take a London overground train to Homerton station to see the Homerton Wildflower
Meadow.
Blessings from Frank.
November 2011
Lol Coxhil 1932 - 2012
For Oare Gunpowder Works Country Park visit
www.gunpowderworks.co.uk
An informative web site
To find out more about Faversham there are a few sites to visit
www.gunpowderworks.co.uk
www.faversham.org
www.faversham.org/history
en.wikipedia.org/history
En.wikipedia.org/wiki/Faversham
Maps.google.co.uk
To read about the walk the chap took between Crayford and Northfleet. And other
walks the same man has taken around Brittan and abroad visit
www.bertchi.co.uk/crayford.php
For info on the North Kent Marshes visit
www.northkentmarshes.org.uk
En.wikpedia.org/wiki/north_kent_marshes.
Some photos of wildlife on the North Kent marshes can be found at
www.robertcanis.com/wpblog/tag/north_kent_marshes
For info about Guy Stevens visit
twww.procolharum.com
En.wikipedia.org/wiki/guystevens.
Also
Manchester soul.co.uk/guy_stevens
There are two tributes to Guy Stevens on you tube
1) Midnight To Stevens by the Clash
The lyrics can be found at
www.123people.co.uk
And
www.lyricsfreak.com/c/clash/midnyght+to+stevens
2) Indiscreet Harlequin by Patrick Campbell Lyons
The lyrics can be found at www.procalharum.com
Patrick Campbell Lyons was part of the British Nirvana. A band that recorded for
Island records in the mid to late 1960s.
For Sue records there are a few sites to visit
www.georgwa.demon.co.uk
En.wikipedia.org/wiki/sue_records
www.intoxica.co.uk/sue/
www.vinylnet.co.uk
www.acerecords.co.uk
www.bsnpubs.com/nyc/sue/
One of the artists that recorded on Sue records Baby Washington recorded a song
called Breakfast In Bed. The song was then recorded by Dusty Springfield. In 1972
the song was recorded by reggae artist Lorna Bennett. Looking on you tube I have
found a few other reggae versions of the song. It seems the song became popular in
the Lovers Rock scene during the 1970s.
For Mot The Hoople visit their web site at
Hunter-mott.com
Also en.wikipedia.org/wiki/mot_the_hoople
One sad bit of news is that Mott The Hoople drummer Dale Buffin Griffin is suffering
from Alzheimer’s disease. This meant that at the Mott The Hoople reunion gig in
2009 he was only able to join the band for the encores.
To find out more about Alzheimer’s disease and to read about Buffin’s own fight with
the illness visit
www.alzheimers.org.uk
The name Buffin was given to the drummer by Guy Stevens. Guy also gave Mott’s
bass player the name Overand Watts, and the organ player the name Verden Allen. I
don’t think he gave guitarist Mick Ralphs or Ian Hunter new names.
All the best
Frank Bangay
early December 011
.