Expedition travel aboard the schooner Passing Cloud

Expedition travel
aboard the schooner
Passing Cloud
Experience the wildlife, wilderness,
& cultures of Canada’s Pacific Coast
2015 Expedition Dates
and Destinations
Welcome Message from
Outer Shores President
A Look Inside the
Schooner Passing Cloud
The sailing trip aboard the Passing Cloud
not only showed me the bliss and beauty
of the west coast but immersed me in 9
days of equally beautiful inner peace.
Mary Beth Morrow, Outer Shores Traveller
1
It was an experience not
to be rushed, but rather
to be savoured moment
by moment.
Join us aboard the schooner
Passing Cloud as we explore the
wilderness, wildlife, and indigenous
cultures of Canada’s Pacific Coast.
You’ll leave this journey rested
and relaxed, inspired, conscious
of vulnerable species and delicate
ecosystems, and filled with
wonderful memories and personal
experiences from this remarkable
corner of the world.
Contents
3
Outer Shores Expeditions
4
Welcome Message from our President
5
Schooner Passing Cloud
7
2015 Expeditions
8
Expedition: Pacific Rim
13 Expedition: Haida Gwaii
18 Expedition: Johnstone Strait
23 Expedition: Great Bear Rainforest
28 Expedition: Gulf Islands
33 Expedition: Photo Tour
42 Contact
2
Outer Shores Expeditions
Outer Shores offers multi-day wildlife and
cultural expeditions that are once-in-alifetime experiences. Guided by our crew of
professional mariners and expert naturalists,
our small groups of 8 guests explore,
experience, and learn about the stunning
wildlife and ancient cultures of coastal British
Columbia. We are committed to providing
exceptional expeditions while minimizing our
impacts on the wildlife we encounter, and
supporting the communities we visit.
Each day we travel between our anchorages
and activities, stopping to view the wildlife
we encounter and sailing whenever the
opportunity presents. We go ashore at least
daily, using our inflatable skiff to shuttle
between ship and shore, and to explore the
many islands and estuaries we visit. Due to the
nature of our daily activities, a moderate degree
of fitness is required for our expeditions.
All meals are prepared by our onboard chef,
serving delicious dishes that are healthy and
plentiful. Whenever possible, we source and
serve foods that are sustainably raised and
caught in B.C. We enjoy dining outside on
Passing Cloud’s aft deck table, or inside around
the dining table in her beautiful main salon.
3
A Welcome Message from
the Outer Shores Expeditions
President, Russell Markel
Dear Outer Shores Traveller,
It’s my distinct pleasure to invite you aboard our classic
wooden schooner, the Passing Cloud, to explore, discover,
and experience first-hand some of the most biodiverse
regions and ancient indigenous cultures on the Planet, here
on Canada’s Pacific Coast.
At Outer Shores, we recognize that our travellers seek truly
exceptional and authentic educational experiences that
provide in-depth understanding of the wildlife, ecosystems
and cultures we visit. The diverse expertise of the Outer
Shores Crew, and the remarkable abilities of our vessel,
the schooner Passing Cloud, is our strength. In tandem,
our guests are able to access and explore some of the
most remote and pristine regions of the British Columbia
Coast, while our expert crew reveals for them their inherent
layers of ecological and cultural complexity. In doing so, it’s
our hope, and our passion, that Outer Shores and Passing
Cloud are quite literally vessels for engaging with nature.
In 2015, we are proudly embarking upon three conservation
and citizen-science initiatives. First, when you join us for an
expedition, we will contribute 2% of your expedition fees
to the Outer Shores Conservation Fund, 100% of which we
direct into to conservation-based research and education
projects. Second, we will begin collecting valuable wildlifesightings data using “SpotterPro”, an iPhone/iPad/Android
app designed by “Conserve.IO – Technology for a Better
Planet”. Finally, we are collaborating with a number of
post-secondary institutions to offer ship-based field courses
that enable undergraduate and graduate students to learn
about coastal ecosystems in ways that textbooks, lectures,
and labs simply can’t compare. Stay tuned for project
descriptions and updates!
I look forward to you joining us aboard the schooner
Passing Cloud for a voyage of discovery and adventure along
the spectacular coast of British Columbia.
Captain Russell Markel, MSc, PhD
Founder and President, Outer Shores Expeditions
Russell has spent his life and career as a
marine ecologist and mariner studying,
exploring, and sailing the B.C. coast.
Founding Outer Shores is the realization
of his ambition to bring together his
experience, education, and passions
to create an organisation that fosters
education, awareness, and stewardship.
4
Schooner, Passing Cloud
Comfort, Safety, & Sailing Ability
Our expedition vessel is the beautiful 70’ (21 m) classic
wooden schooner, Passing Cloud. This iconic vessel has a
rich history on the B.C. Coast, renowned for her elegant
design and exceptional sailing abilities. Passing Cloud
was designed by William Roué, who also designed the
legendary Canadian schooner, Bluenose, featured on the
back of every Canadian dime. Built to sail around the
world, Passing Cloud is an ideal vessel for exploring and
engaging with the nature and cultures of the B.C. Coast.
5
The schooner Passing Cloud was launched
in 1974 in Victoria B.C., and features
four private guest cabins, a beautifully
redesigned main salon, and traditional
wheelhouse. The three forward staterooms
each have two spacious single berths
(beds) complete with fluffy duvets and
wool blankets, a private vanity with sink,
mirror, hot and cold running water, a
skylight or deck prism, brass reading lamps,
drawers, and a hanging locker for storage.
The aft stateroom is accessed from the
wheelhouse, and boasts a large skylight,
two double berths, private vanity with hot
and cold water, and a small head (marine
toilet). A spacious common head and
shower are accessible from the main salon.
Passing Cloud also features sea kayaks and
an inflatable skiff to help us explore the
shorelines, forests, bays and inlets of the
BC coast.
Passing Cloud is a Transport Canada
certified passenger vessel and meets
the highest standards of safety and
construction. She is fully equipped with
modern safety and navigation equipment
including radar, GPS, VHF radios, EPIRB, and
digital chart plotter and satellite telephone.
6
2015 Expeditions
Experience the wildlife, wilderness, and
cultures of Canada’s Pacific Coast
7
British Columbia’s
Pacific Rim National Park
5-days navigating more than 300 islands and islets in an
astonishingly rich cultural and wilderness environment
With exploration of ancient cultures and coastal rainforests
Discover
Encounter
Learn
The Nuu-chah-nulth cultural
heritage of Barkley Sound and
the Broken Group Islands
Black bears, grey whales,
sea otters, and orca
About the fascinating
archaeological research
in this region
8
Pacific Rim National Park
Vancouver Island’s West Coast
Our expeditions to the west coast of Vancouver Island
explore and experience the wildlife, wilderness and rich
Nuu-chah-nulth cultural heritage of Barkley Sound and
the Broken Group Islands, an archipelago of more than
300 islands and islets long considered the jewel of the
Pacific Rim National Park.
9
Living and travelling aboard the schooner
Passing Cloud, and through shore excursions,
kayaking and zodiac tours, we’ll explore
the islands, beaches, shores, old-growth
rainforests, rocky intertidal zones, kelp forest
communities, estuaries and fiords of this
diverse region, while partnering with local
Nuu-chah-nulth Nations, researchers and
historians to learn about its ancient and
intact cultural heritage.
BRITISH
COLUMBIA
CLAYOQUOT
SOUND
VANCOUVER
Port Alberni
5-days / 4-nights
VANCOUVER ISLAND
Tofino
2015 departures: Apr 11,16, 21, 26, May 2
Price per person: $2400 CAD
BARKLEY
SOUND
Departs from / Returns to: Ucluelet
Ucluelet
BROKEN GROUP
ISLANDS UNIT
PACIFIC RIM NATIONAL
PARK RESERVE
What’s Included?
All meals, accommodation, transportation,
user fees, use of onboard gear and resources,
rubber boots.
Bamfield
What’s not included?
5% GST, travel and accommodation before
and after the expedition, gratuities, any
personal expenses incurred due to weather,
logistical delays, delayed departures of
chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
10
Sample Itinerary:
British Columbia’s
Pacific Rim National Park
Day
1
Our expedition to Pacific Rim National Park begins in
Ucluelet where we board Passing Cloud and set sail for
the Broken Group Islands. As we sail through Macoah
Passage we will be on the look out for spawning
Pacific herring and the grey whales, seabirds, and sea
lions that congregate here to feast on this ecological
bonanza. We’ll also hope to encounter some of
the newest arrivals to Barkley Sound, the sea otter
population that is re-colonizing this region. Come
late afternoon we’ll drop anchor in a natural lagoon
between Dodd, Willis and Turtle Islands and take the
opportunity to sea kayak, take a zodiac tour, and shore
walk, exploring the old growth forest and white-sand
beaches found here. We’ll respectfully observe and
discuss the deep shell middens, stone fish traps and
ancient clam gardens we encounter, left here by the
Tseshaht First Nation over the thousands of years
they’ve inhabited this region.
Thank you for a wonderful
“unplugging from civilization”,
educational, and gastronomic
delight trip. We enjoyed the
rainbows, tidepool life, ducks,
minks, eagles, osprey, giant sea
stars, bears and whales. We look
forward to joining you again.
Susan and Ken Wiegman,
Outer Shores Travellers
Day
2
An early morning beach walk kicks-off our second day,
as we take advantage of the low tide to explore the
world of diverse creatures like giant green anemones,
lemon nudibranchs, bat stars, giant gumboot chitons,
frilled dog whelks, peanut worms, purple encrusting
sponges, and iridescent seaweed that flourish in this
unique and fascinating ecosystem. We follow up our
morning of discovery with a hot breakfast, fresh coffee,
and tea as we prepare to heave up anchor and sail to
Effingham Inlet in the north of the sound. Here we go
ashore to explore the coastal estuary and hopefully
catch a glimpse of foraging black bears. Next comes
a sail through the Imperial Eagle Channel in search
of humpback whales and harbour porpoises before
anchoring in the Deer Group Islands for the night.
11
Day
3
We are now in the traditional territory of the Huuay-aht First Nation. In the past, the Huu-ay-aht First
Nations people drew all they required from the
wilderness and wildlife of this exceptionally
productive environment. We will visit the coastal
community of Bamfield, home to the Bamfield Marine
Sciences Centre, which now figures prominently in
this historic boardwalk community. Our afternoon has
us sailing back across the Trevor and Imperial Eagle
Channels to the Broken Group Islands. Here we’ll
go ashore to explore ancient stone fish weirs at the
“Great Tidepool,” before sailing past an outstanding
sea lion haul-out site later in the day. We will anchor
overnight at Wouwer Island.
Day
4
This morning we travel to Benson Island to tour the
ancient village site of “C’isaa”, birthplace of the Tseshaht
First Nation that was occupied for at least 5000 years.
Here we will see the large shell middens that are the
result of thousands of years of marine subsistence at
this site. Later this morning we’ll cruise past the tiny
ancient “fortress island” of Dicebox Island and learn
about the archaeological research conducted here,
shining some light on the socio-political-ecological
dynamics that made this slight piece of land so
vital some 1,500 years ago. In the afternoon we will
leisurely stroll and explore the white- sand beaches of
Clark or Turret Island before sailing and sea kayaking
throughout the afternoon.
Day
5
Looking to squeeze every last drop out of this
expedition, we will take a final morning shore walk,
zodiac excursion, or exploration sea kayak today
before heaving anchor and heading back to Ucluelet,
all the while keeping out eyes peeled for more sea
otters, whales and seabirds as we make our way back
to port to say our final reluctant farewells prior to a
disembarkation.
12
British Columbia’s
Haida Gwaii Archipelago
9-days exploring the ecosystems, wildlife, & cultural heritage
of one of the most spectacular places on the planet
One of National Geographic’s Top 20 Places to Visit in 2015!
Discover
Encounter
Learn
Ecosystems, wildlife, and
cultural heritage of Gwaii
Haanas National Park
Puffins, albatrosses,
sunfish, jellyfish, orcas
and fin whales
About the rich cultural
heritage of the indigenous
Haida Nation
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Haida Gwaii
Archipelago
Islands at the Edge
Haida Gwaii (“Islands of the People” in
the Haida language) is a remote island
archipelago located approximately
100 km off the northwest coast of
British Columbia. The “Galapagos
of the North” is a world where giant
spruce and cedar trees tower over
salmon-rich streams, and kelp forests
connect the land to the sea. An
ecological hotspot, the unparalleled
diversity of marine life here includes
everything from puffins to albatrosses,
sunfish to jellyfish, and killer whales
to blue whales. Gwaii Haanas
National Park Reserve, National
Marine Conservation Area, and
Haida Heritage Site (or simply “Gwaii
Haanas”) protects the ecological and
cultural treasures of this globally
significant region from sea floor to
mountain top.
14
Our 9-day expedition through Gwaii Haanas is dedicated
to learning about the ecosystems and wildlife of the
archipelago, while exploring the cultural heritage of the
Haida people who have lived here for more than 10,000
years. Throughout this expedition we’ll explore old-growth
forests, white-sand beaches, rocky shores, ancient and
modern cultural sites, and encounter the stunning wildlife
found here. Gwaii Haanas protects and informs us how
the Haida have thrived here in concert with the diverse
ecosystems of this island archipelago for millenia.
Masset
BRITISH
COLUMBIA
9-days / 8-nights
VANCOUVER
Tlell
2015 departures: Jun 17, 25, Jul 3, 11, 19, 27
GRAHAM ISLAND
Price per person: $5200 CAD
Departs from / Returns to: Sandspit
Queen Charlotte
Skidgate
Sandspit
What’s Included?
Land tour including the Haida Heritage Centre, float plane
flight over Gwaii Haanas, all meals, accommodation,
transportation, user fees, and use of onboard gear and
resources including rubber boots.
Moresby Camp
K’uuna Llnagaay
(Skedans)
What’s not included?
5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after the
expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses incurred
due to weather, logistical delays, delayed departures of
chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
T’aanuu Linagaay
(Tanu)
Hlk’yah GawGa
(Windy Bay)
Gandll K’in Gwaay-yaay
(Hotspring Island)
GWAII HAANAS
NATIONAL PARK
RESERVE
Rose Harbour
SGang Gwaay
(Anthony Island)
Cape St. James
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Sample Itinerary:
British Columbia’s
Haida Gwaii Archipelago
We structure our Haida Gwaii expeditions as
one-way voyages between the northern and
southern portions of the park, rather than return
trips. By doing so we are able to reduce our
travel time and spend more time exploring and
sailing during each expedition. A distinct feature
of all our expeditions is that we have no fixed
itineraries. Instead, our days structured by the
winds, tides, and wildlife we encounter, and the
interests and expertise of our guests and crew
members. Please note that the following sample
itinerary describes a south-bound expedition.
Day
1
Our expedition begins upon arrival at the Sandspit
Airport where you’ll be met by an Outer Shores Crew
member and our ground transportation. With our
group assembled we’ll depart for the Alliford Bay ferry
terminal and cross the short distance to Skidegate
Landing. Tonight we’ll enjoy an authentic Haida dinner
and overnight accommodation at the Haida House
situated in Tlell.
I never dreamt of the beauty we
would find beneath the waters.
It was such a gift to see it and
have someone explain it all to us.
I loved learning about the ocean,
the Haida, and experience first
hand what it is like to be one with
nature.
Day
2
Judi Trotter, Outer Shores Traveller
This morning after breakfast and a beach walk, we’ll
travel to the Haida Heritage Centre at Kay Llnagaay.
Here we will see and learn about the language,
traditions, beliefs, and artistic expressions of the
Haida culture, setting the stage for our journey
through Gwaii Haanas. This afternoon, we’ll travel via
ferry and passenger van to Moresby Camp, where
we’ll join the schooner Passing Cloud. After meeting
the crew and settling into your accommodations and
attending a comprehensive safety briefing, we cast off
our lines and set sail for the ancient village of K’uuna
Llnagaay (Skedans) where we take a guided tour of
the ancient Haida village. Later in the afternoon, we
head back aboard Passing Cloud and travel towards
Anna Inlet, where we set anchor for the evening.
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Day
3
Today we travel towards the ancient villages of
T’aanuu Llnagaay (Tanu) and Hlk’yah GaawGa (Windy
Bay) to walk through an old-growth forest filled with
massive cedar and spruce trees. We follow that up
with a visit to a Haida Watchmen’s cabin to learn the
story of the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and
Haida Heritage Site. We cap off our day by heading
back to our floating home and enjoying an evening
sail. Make sure to keep a sharp lookout for orca,
which are frequent visitors to the area.
Day
6
Today we visit Cape St. James (weather permitting),
at the southernmost extremity of the Haida Gwaii
Archipelago. With ocean currents meeting from the
east and west, this area is alive with marine life,
including tufted and horned puffins, sea lions, and
orcas on the hunt for their next meal. This region
is also home to one of our favourite white-sand
beaches on the BC coast, great for an afternoon of
exploring, relaxing, and strolling barefoot along the
shore.
Day
4
Today, weather permitting, we hope to sail a few miles
from shore to reach the pelagic zone. This area is the
perfect place to search for marine wildlife, such as
pelagic seabirds, sharks, giant ocean sunfish, Pacific
white-sided dolphins, and humpback whales. In the
afternoon we make our way closer to shore to explore
a small river system, and examine the remnants of
wood-stake fish weirs (traps) dating from more than a
thousand years ago.
Day
7
We kick-off our day scouring the shoreline for
intertidal archaeological features, including fish
traps and clam gardens, and contemplate the
interconnectedness of natural ecosystems and
Haida subsistence and beliefs. Later, we have the
chance to tour a sea lion rookery, learning more
about these formidable creatures and their ecology
and conservation. We cap off the day by sailing to
Louscoone Inlet to anchor for the night.
Day
8
Today we travel to the ancient village of SGang
Gwaay on Anthony Island. The village remained
inhabited until approximately 1880, and in 1984
was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in
recognition of its globally significant cultural heritage.
Here we find the remains of massive long houses,
and a stunning grove of standing mortuary and
memorial poles. We will embark on a guided tour of
the village to learn about the traditional Haida way of
life and social systems.
Day
5
This morning we’re up early to catch low tide and
explore the incredible marine biodiversity of the
world-famous Burnaby Narrows. Using our kayaks
and inflatable skiff, we follow one of our expedition
teams in snorkeling gear to check-out giant predatory
sunflower stars, multi-coloured bats stars, massive
moon snails, decorator crabs, and nudibranchs (sea
slugs). Once the tide begins to rise, we return to the
Passing Cloud and continue our travels southward
to Kunghit Island, traditional territory of the Kunghit
Haida.
Day
9
On our final day, we get one last chance to
experience the breathtaking Gwaii Haanas region,
this time from the window of a floatplane. We
will take in a spectacular 50-minute flight back to
Sandspit, where our journey officially comes to an
end.
17
British Columbia’s
Johnstone Strait & Blackfish Sound
6-days sailing with the spectacular marine mammal populations
of Northern Vancouver Island
One of the best places on the planet to observe killer whales in the wild
Discover
Encounter
Learn
The incredibly rich
ecosystem of this
wildlife hotspot
Orcas, humpback
whales, dolphins,
porpoises, seals and
sea lions
About the fascinating
behaviours and
communication of
killer whales
18
Johnstone Strait
& Blackfish Sound
Whales By Sails
Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound are world-famous for
the killer whale (orca) populations that inhabit these waters.
Each year, large numbers of killer whales congregate in this
region to feed on migrating wild Pacific salmon and abundant
populations of seals, dolphins and porpoises.
19
This 6-day sailing expedition aboard our classic
schooner Passing Cloud allows us to observe,
photograph and learn about killer whales,
humpback whales, and many other marine
mammals, as well as experience the marine
wilderness of Northern Vancouver Island. Make
sure to have your camera ready as we expect to
witness many whales and dolphins as they hop,
breach, tail slap, feed, and socialize. Traveling
under sail at every opportunity, this expedition
connects us to the stunning marine wildlife of this
region and the ecosystems that support them.
6-days / 5-nights
2015 departures: Aug 5, 11, 17, 23
Price per person: $3200 CAD
Departs from / Returns to: Port McNeill
What’s Included?
All meals, accommodation, transportation, user fees,
use of onboard gear and resources, and rubber
boots.
What’s not included?
5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after
the expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses
incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed
departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
Port Hardy
BROUGHTON
ARCHIPELAGO MARINE
PROVINCIAL PARK
Sointula
BRITISH
COLUMBIA
VANCOUVER
Port McNeill
BLACKFISH
SOUND
Alert Bay
Telegraph Cove
VANCOUVER ISLAND
JOHNSTONE
STRAIT
Robson Bight
20
Sample Itinerary:
British Columbia’s
Johnstone Strait
and Blackfish Sound
Thrilling experience, we enjoyed
every minute, especially the
wonderful immersion in the Outer
Shores World. Life is all about
experience & learning and we go
away with much to think about.
Day
1
We start our expedition from the northern Vancouver
Island community of Port McNeill, where we board
our floating home for the next 6-days, the schooner
Passing Cloud. After settling into our cabins and
attending a comprehensive safety briefing, we set sail
for Johnstone Strait. As we journey to our overnight
anchorage, be sure to keep a sharp eye out for the
many orcas and other whales that congregate in this
region each summer.
Hans Van De Sande and Sharon Sullivan
Day
2
Today we are on the hunt to discover the region’s
diverse marine wildlife, including killer whales and
Pacific white-sided dolphins. We will spend most
of the day observing the daily behaviours of the
Northern Vancouver Island Resident killer whales that
frequent this region during the summer months. We
expect to encounter killer whales feeding, resting,
socializing, travelling, breaching, spy hopping, or tail
slapping. Following our day at sea, we set anchor
for the evening and enjoy a casual shore walk on a
nearby island, and discuss the photo-identification
techniques used to monitor these fascinating
creatures.
21
Day
3
This morning we travel to the outskirts of the Robson
Bight Killer Whale Ecological Reserve in Johnstone
Strait, a unique sanctuary for orca. We are likely to
encounter a number of killer whales pods or family
groups on route to visit the unique “rubbing beaches”
found within the reserve. We’ll use our underwater
hydrophone to listen to the vocalizations that killer
whales use to communicate with one another and
differentiate among family units. We follow that up
by setting sail and cruising the nearby waters to the
sounds of only wind and water moving around us.
Day
5
Today, our last full day on the water, we’ll have a
number of options available to us. Depending on the
interests of our group, we may decide to spend the
day observing killer whales and humpback whales,
sailing, sea kayaking, or walking along the beach. A
beautiful forest walk to visit Eagle Eye, an observation
platform where BC Park wardens monitor the
movements of killer whales and visiting vessels are
other possible activities for the day.
Day
4
This morning we’ll explore our scenic anchorage via
sea kayak, zodiac tour, or shore excursion. We will
then spend the rest of our morning observing and
photographing the large numbers of humpback whales,
Dall’s porpoises, and Pacific white-sided dolphins
congregating in Blackfish Sound and Queen Charlotte
Strait. In the afternoon, we visit the historic boardwalk
community of Telegraph Cove and the Killer Whale
Interpretive Centre. This facility provides a wonderful
opportunity to learn more about the biology, ecology,
and conservation of killer whales and other marine
mammals in this region.
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Day
6
This morning we wake up early and set sail for our
last chance to spot more marine wildlife – perhaps
even some of the mammal-eating transient killer
whales, a lone Minke whale, or a super-pod of
Pacific white-sided dolphins! Once arriving back in
Port McNeill, we disembark and say farewell to this
spectacular region, with many fresh memories of our
adventures on the open sea.
British Columbia’s
Great Bear Rainforest
9-days searching for salmon, bears, whales, and wolves
in the largest coastal temperate forest in the world
One of National Geographic’s 20 places to see in 2014
Discover
Encounter
Learn
Abundant wildlife in the
largest coastal temperate
forest in the world
Iconic bears and coastal
temperate rainforests
How wild Pacific salmon
define the ecosystem
23
British Columbia’s
Great Bear Rainforest
Salmon, Bears, Whales, and Wolves
The Great Bear Rainforest is one of the largest intact
coastal temperate forests in the world. Extending
from northern Vancouver Island to Alaska, and
covering more than 70,000km2 (24,000mi2), this area
is home to spectacular wildlife including whales and
dolphins, bears and wolves, sea lions and sea otters.
This 9-day expedition aboard our classic schooner,
the Passing Cloud, gives us the chance to explore this
beautiful ecosystem and learn how it depends so
critically on wild Pacific salmon.
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Kitimat
(Haida First Nation)
We will have the opportunity to follow the salmon
life cycle, visit the First Nations communities of Bella
Bella and Klemtu, encounter marine mammals on
the open sea, and potentially catch a glimpse of the
rare white Kermode or “Spirit” bear.
Our 9-day expedition through the Great Bear
Rainforest starts and ends in the Heiltsuk First Nation
community of Bella Bella. Travelling deep into the
heart of the Great Bear, as far north as the Gitga’at
Nation community of Hartley Bay, we circumnavigate
Princess Royal Island in search of salmon, bears,
whales and wolves.
BRITISH
COLUMBIA
Hartley Bay
(Gitga’at First Nation)
VANCOUVER
9-days / 8-nights
2015 departures: May 22, 31, Sep 1, 10, 19, 28
Price per person: $5200 CAD
PRINCESS ROYAL
ISLAND
Departs from / Returns to: Bella Bella
What’s Included?
Klemtu
(Kitasoo/Xaixais First Nation)
All meals, accommodation, transportation, user fees,
use of onboard gear and resources, and rubber boots.
What’s not included?
5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after
the expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses
incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed
departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
Bella Bella
(Heiltsuk First Nation)
25
Sample Itinerary:
British Columbia’s
Great Bear Rainforest
Day
1
Our adventure begins in the Heiltsuk First Nations
community of Bella Bella, a short flight from
Vancouver International Airport. Upon boarding
our schooner Passing Cloud and settling into
accommodations, we set sail and begin our
journey north into the heart of Canada’s Great
Bear Rainforest. As we slice through the waters of
the Seaforth Channel we’ll be on the lookout for
our first wildlife sightings - humpback whales, sea
otters, elephant seals, and killer whales. Later in the
afternoon, we set down our anchor in a small coastal
estuary and go ashore for our first taste of the coastal
temperate rainforest ecosystem.
It’s virtually impossible to find the
adequate words to express my
gratitude and wonder for such a
magical week. The fact that such
natural beauty, such isolated
wilderness, still exists gives me
hope for our world.
Day
2
Today gets started with an early morning visit to one
of the rainforest estuaries, an enclosed body of water
with multiple rivers and streams running into it, to
observe and photograph wildlife. After exploring this
area for the morning, we continue our travels north,
potentially spotting humpback whales, dolphins, and
porpoises. In the afternoon we visit our first major
river system, where we find a comfortable spot to sit
and wait to observe grizzly bears fishing for salmon.
Megan McCaslin, Outer Shores Traveller
Day
3
This morning we have breakfast while sailing north
through the Princess Royal Channel, en route to
Khutze Inlet, renowned for its towering granite cliffs,
waterfalls, snow capped mountain peaks, and wildlife
– especially grizzly bears. We’ll use our inflatable
zodiac to travel deep into this coastal estuary
ecosystem, which is an excellent habitat for spawning
salmon, coastal grizzly bears, and wolves.
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Day
4
We continue our exploration of Khutze Inlet with an
early morning photography and wildlife expedition into
the estuary via sea kayak. Next, we head back aboard
Passing Cloud and travel north in search of the iconic
spirit (or Kermode) bear, which are actually black bears
with a rare gene that produces completely white fur.
After we anchor in Bishop Bay Marine Park for the
evening, we head ashore to enjoy a soak in one of the
natural hot springs in the area.
Day
7
Day
5
Today we hope to catch a glimpse of the coastal
wolves that inhabit the Great Bear Rainforest. We
plan to visit small coastal streams in this region,
surrounded by ancient spruce and cedar trees, which
provide ideal habitats for wolves and bears. We also
have time to explore, photograph, and view wildlife
in this area via sea kayaks, inflatable boat, and shore
excursions.
Today we visit the bear-viewing stands operated by
the Gitga’at First Nation, where we’ll have an excellent
chance of observing spirit bears and black bears
fishing for salmon in a small coastal stream. We
spend the majority of the day quietly observing and
photographing the salmon, bears, and other wildlife
from the viewing stands at the edge of the stream.
Later this afternoon, we travel a short distance to
our overnight anchorage as we begin our southward
journey along the west side of Princess Royal Island.
Day
8
This morning we pass through Myers Narrows en
route to the Kitasoo/Xaixais First Nation community
of Klemtu. We are welcomed to this remote coastal
community with a walking tour and a guided visit
of their traditional Big House. In the afternoon we
sail south through Finlayson Channel and Milbanke
Sound, getting to experience the outer coast before
anchoring overnight in the vicinity of Seaforth
Channel, near Bella Bella.
Day
6
Travelling south into Camano Sound, we spend the
morning on the lookout for humpback, fin, and killer
whales that congregate here each summer and fall.
Weather and time permitting, we’ll go ashore to visit
whale researchers who live in the area year round
and track the whales in this region. In the afternoon,
we spend our time sailing through this stunning area
before anchoring for the night in Laredo Inlet.
Day
9
As we travel the short distance to Bella Bella this
morning we hope for last minute wildlife sightings,
and enjoy the pristine landscapes and seascapes of
the Great Bear Rainforest. Once we arrive, we say
our farewells to the Great Bear Rainforest before
disembarking and heading to the airport.
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British Columbia’s
Gulf Islands National Park
5-days of sailing and exploring the nature and cultures
of the Salish Sea
Experience the Mediterranean climate of this unique island archipelago
Discover
Encounter
Learn
The marine wilderness of
BC’s Southern Gulf Islands
Archipelago
Seals, sea lions, porpoises,
ravens and eagles
How the Coast Salish First
Nations lived among these
islands for thousands of years
28
British Columbia’s
Gulf Islands National Park
Discover the Salish Sea
For thousands of years Coast Salish First Nations have
called this collection of islands and inlets located between
Vancouver Island and mainland British Columbia home.
Today, the Salish Sea draws visitors for its unique
Mediterranean climate and marine and land ecosystems
teeming with wildlife that includes seabirds, seals, sea lions,
humpback whales, orcas, porpoises, diverse intertidal life,
and rare plant communities. The Gulf Islands National
Park Reserve was established in 2003 to safeguard this
ecologically and culturally sensitive region.
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This expedition aboard our classic wooden schooner
Passing Cloud provides the opportunity to explore,
photograph, and experience the many islands,
beaches and forests, fascinating ecology, and cultural
and natural history of this region.
Nanaimo
5-days / 4-nights
2015 departures: Oct 12, 17, 23
Price per person: $2400 CAD
Departs from / Returns to: Port Sidney
VANCOUVER ISLAND
What’s Included?
All meals, accommodation, transportation, user fees,
use of onboard gear and resources, rubber boots.
What’s not included?
BRITISH
COLUMBIA
5% GST, travel and accommodation before and after
the expedition, gratuities, any personal expenses
incurred due to weather, logistical delays, delayed
departures of chartered aircraft, taxis, ferries.
Sidney
VANCOUVER
Victoria
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Sample Itinerary:
British Columbia’s
Gulf Islands National Park
Day
1
I have searched the globe
for authentic trips to build
inspiration, appreciation, and a
sense that we are all connected.
Outer Shores and Passing Cloud
gave this to our family.
Our adventure begins at Port Sidney Marina, located
just a short walk from the charming seaside town of
Sidney, British Columbia, and less than 10 km from
Victoria International Airport. Upon arriving and
boarding our schooner, Passing Cloud, we set sail
for the Salish Sea, the network of coastal waterways
named for the Coast Salish First Nations who used the
waterways as vital trade routes and as an important
source for food. As we make our way through the
intricate waterways, we are keenly on the lookout for
the pods of salmon-eating orcas (killer whales) that
reside here.
Melissa Hills, Outer Shores Traveller
Day
2
This morning, we start with a beach and forest walk
on Russell Island. Part of the National Park Reserve,
this island was once a First Nations village and in
the 1880s was settled by Hawaiian immigrants. We
explore the island’s cliffs, coves and sand beaches,
and stroll through the Douglas fir and arbutus – a tall
broadleaf evergreen tree – forest. In the afternoon,
we set sail for Haro Strait, a major entrance point for
the Fraser River salmon run, where we search for
whales, porpoises and seabirds.
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Day
3
Today we explore the intriguing intertidal ecosystems
and beaches on Tumbo Island. The island’s rich
and historic past has included fur farming, timber
harvesting and coal mining, but today it is mainly
forested with old growth Douglas firs and Garry oak
meadows. Historically, Coast Salish First Nations
found safe harbour on Tumbo Island during their
journeys across the strait and while hand trolling
for fish offshore. It remains an important spiritual
site to this day. In the afternoon, we have a unique
opportunity to observe a sea lion haul-out, where
hundreds of these sea mammals take to the rocky
shore, as Passing Cloud sails past Tumbo Island’s East
Point.
Day
4
Our day begins with a hike through the regenerating
Garry oak and arbutus forest on the mountainous
Saturna Island, leading to an unspoiled view of Narvaez
Bay. In the afternoon, we take advantage of our sea
kayaks and paddle along the quiet shoreline, while also
having time for a beach walk and zodiac tour of the
island’s surrounding waters. Later, we raise all sails and
enjoy cruising gracefully through Boundary Passage
and Haro Strait, on the look out for southern resident
killer whales, Dall’s porpoises, and other marine
mammals and seabirds. Our overnight anchorage is
located on Pender Island.
Day
5
On the final day of our expedition, after one more
delicious breakfast, we make our way back to Port
Sidney to say our farewells and disembark by late
morning.
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Coastal Photography Tour in
Pacific Rim National Park
5-days building and honing your photography skills while immersed
in pristine coastal wilderness
With exploration of island archipelagos and ancient coastal rainforests
Discover
Photograph
Learn
Marine wilderness of
Vancouver Island’s
west coast
Bears, whales, sea otters,
eagles, tidepools, forests,
and seabirds
Strategies for
photographing coastal
wildlife and environments
33
Coastal Photography
Tour 2015
Pacific Rim National Park
During our 2015 Photo Tour in Pacific Rim National
Park Reserve, living and travelling aboard the
schooner Passing Cloud, and isolated from all the
distractions of shore-bound life, you’ll have the
opportunity to focus on taking your photography to
the next level. Accommodations, delicious food, and
transportation to stunning photo destinations are all
included, leaving you free to concentrate on capturing
your vision of this pristine coastal wilderness.
34
BRITISH
COLUMBIA
Our floating classroom for this photo tour is the
schooner Passing Cloud, and our playground is
the Broken Group Islands of Pacific Rim National
Park Reserve. This all-inclusive photography
adventure overlays discussion-based workshops,
photo reviews, and one-on-one guidance upon
the islands, beaches, old-growth rainforests,
rocky intertidal zones, kelp forest communities,
estuaries and fiords of this diverse region.
CLAYOQUOT
SOUND
VANCOUVER
Port Alberni
VANCOUVER ISLAND
5-days / 4-nights
Tofino
2015 departures: April 21
Price per person: $2600 CAD
BARKLEY
SOUND
Ucluelet
Departs from / Returns to: Ucluelet
BROKEN GROUP
ISLANDS UNIT
PACIFIC RIM NATIONAL
PARK RESERVE
What’s Included?
All meals, accommodation, transportation, user
fees, use of onboard gear and resources, and
rubber boots.
Bamfield
What’s not included?
5% GST, travel and accommodation before and
after the expedition, gratuities, any personal
expenses incurred due to weather, logistical
delays, delayed departures of chartered aircraft,
taxis, ferries.
35
Sample Itinerary:
Coastal Photography
Tour 2015
Please note that our goal is to put you in the ideal photographic
location for the prevailing light, tide, and wildlife conditions
as much as possible and so it’s impossible to provide a fixed
itinerary. That being said, the following sample itinerary will give
you an idea of our expected daily flow.
PreTour
Participants arrive today in Ucluelet and spend the
night at accommodations of your choice. Suggested
sights/activities for you here include the Ucluelet
Aquarium, a forest walk to Amphitrite Point Lighthouse,
or a walk along Long Beach. We’ll have an optional
meet and greet with our instructor and the ship’s
captain at 7:00 PM at a location to be determined.
I walked away from the tour as
a more complete photographer
with a much better grasp of
camera technology and all the
subtle nuances involved in taking
more compelling photos. I also
have a greater appreciation
for the history of the area, and
the importance of the diverse
ecosystem.
Day
1
Our tour officially begins at 10:00 AM when participants
board the Passing Cloud. After meeting the crew and a
safety briefing, our photographic adventures begin as
we leave the dock and immediately encounter myriad
photographic opportunities: coastal fishing community,
all manner of vessels, seals, sea lions, bald eagles,
and rugged seascapes. After lunch we’ll have our first
discussion-based sessions: Introduction to Coastal
Photography and Rainforest Photography. With this
information fresh in our minds, we’ll embark upon
our first shore excursion via zodiac and put our new
skills and strategies to work. Afterwards we’ll enjoy our
first fabulous dinner aboard Passing Cloud, finishing
in time to enjoy the golden evening light, either back
on shore for from the foredeck. We’ll end the day in
Passing Cloud’s beautiful main salon, with time to work
on images, receive post-processing help, and socialize,
perhaps with a glass of wine in hand.
Chris Botting, Outer Shores Traveller
36
Day
2
For those who choose to accept this mission, today
starts with James Thompson’s famous “Dawn Patrol”,
with a quick snack and fresh coffee in hand. Don’t
worry, if you decide in favour of those extra hours
of sleep, we’ll all rendezvous for second breakfast,
following by our daily planning session and today’s
topic: Coastal Wildlife. During this time Passing Cloud
will be moving us towards our next photographic
destination, Wouwer Island. We’ll go for a zodiac
excursion here, on the lookout for the Steller sea lions
known to frequent this area, and then back to the ship
for lunch. Early afternoon is a good time for fitting in a
nap, sorting and processing photos, and/or preparing
for our afternoon expedition, during which we’ll sail the
waters of Imperial Eagle Channel, on the lookout for
whales, dolphins, and porpoises. Our evening sunset
session will be shore-based at our overnight anchorage,
Effingham Island. Time permitting, we’ll end the day
with an optional image critique in which participants
submit between one and three images shot during the
tour for constructive review by the group.
Day
Day
4
3
We have a very good low tide this morning and so
everyone is up for this morning’s photo session
at Wouwer Island. After another scrumptious hot
breakfast and coffee on the aft deck, we meet
for our planning session and today’s discussion
topic: Intertidal/Tidepool Techniques. This is a fun
topic with some tricks for using reflective light and
time-lapse techniques. Because Wouwer offers
everything from sea lions to forests to tidepools,
we’ll spend our second morning session here before
going sailing during and after lunch. The location
and focus of this afternoon’s photography session
will be up to the group, this being the last full day of
the tour. We may return to the estuaries for more
bear photography, go sailing in search of whales and
sea otters, or visit an unexplored beach or ancient
village site. After dinner today, we finish with time
for sorting and processing in preparation for our
final group photo critique session and our version of
the “People’s Choice Awards” (don’t worry, fun and
prizes for all!).
As with every morning, “Dawn Patrol” today is
available but certainly not mandatory, followed
by breakfast, our planning session, and today’s
discussion topic: Coastal Composition. Our shooting
session this morning will take place on Benson Island,
or “C’isaa”, birthplace and ancient village site of the
Tseshaht First Nation. At this remarkable island, we’ll
have a wide range of photographic opportunities
available to us, including beaches, old-growth
rainforests, tidepools, and wildlife. After lunch and
afternoon free time, we gear up for photographing
black bears in a nearby coastal estuary. Depending
on tides and wildlife sightings, we may return to the
estuary after dinner, or set up for another spectacular
west coast sunset on a nearby island. Image critique,
reviews, or post-processing anyone? Or perhaps just
desert and time for sorting photos.
Day
5
Looking to squeeze every last drop out of our
expedition, at least some of us will be up for Dawn
Patrol (right JT?), and others will enjoy a leisurely
morning coffee, or perhaps quietly explore our
anchorage via sea kayak. As we make our way back
to Ucluelet for our 10:00 AM disembarkation, we’ll
keep a sharp look out for more marine mammals,
seabirds, or coastal scenics for that last perfect shot.
37
FAQ: Coastal Photography
Tour 2015
Who should take this tour?
Anyone with an interest in improving their technical and artistic
photographic skills in a stunning coastal wilderness setting.
What is the nature of this tour? What kind of photo tour is it?
This tour has three main components: (1) living and travelling
aboard a beautiful wooden schooner, participants are completely
immersed in a pristine coastal wilderness environment, providing
unlimited photographic opportunities; (2) all logistics are
completely taken care of for you, including accommodation,
transportation, and wonderful chef-prepared meals…it’s easy!
And (3) our instructor and photography expert focuses on helping
you build your photographic toolbox by focusing on a range of
photographic challenges/opportunities including marine wildlife,
coastal rainforests, the intertidal zone, coastal composition, and
more. Frequent, shooting sessions, discussion-based workshops,
one-on-one help, and group image reviews are hallmarks of this
tour. Ultimately, this is your holiday and we want it to be fun and
informative for you.
What will I get to photograph?
We endeavour to expose participants to all the major features
of our wild west coast: the open ocean, the fascinating intertidal
zone, unspoiled soaring coastal old growth rainforests, and
a wide array of wildlife including bears, eagles, whales, sea
lions, seals and a myriad of other birdlife all set against the
stunning backdrop of the Vancouver Island Mountain Range. We
occasionally also run into orca, sea otters, dolphins, porpoises
and wolves.
How physically fit should I be?
You should be able to walk short distances over somewhat
uneven terrain carrying your camera gear.
What is the Instructor to Participant Ratio? How many crew
will be on board?
There will be a maximum of 6 participants on the tour, and one
instructor. Our ship’s crew will consist of captain (also a PhD in
marine biology), mate/deckhand, and chef.
What camera gear should I bring?
Short answer? Everything! The wider the range of focal lengths
available to you, the more photographic choices you have.
Another essential piece of equipment is a tripod sturdy enough
to bear the weight of your camera plus largest lens. Other useful
items include a polarizing filter, spare batteries, plenty of storage
media, and a flash or reflector.
I am a single traveler. Can I have a cabin to myself or do I
have to share with someone else?
We do encourage spouses or close friends to join this tour
together and share a cabin. However, given the arrangement of
the cabins and a mixture of friends/couples and single travelers,
we typically can accommodate single travellers in a cabin to
themselves.
38
FAQ: Coastal Photography
Tour 2015 (Continued)
How do I get there?
The tour departs aboard the schooner Passing Cloud from the
picturesque fishing village of Ucluelet, on the west coast of
Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. A beautiful 4 hr
drive from Victoria, both Tofino and Ucluelet are well served
by ground transport from Victoria and Nanaimo (see www.
tofinobus.com). Another option is to fly directly to Tofino from
Vancouver International Airport (YVR) (visit www.kdair.com or
www.flyorcaair.com).
What will the weather be like?
Spending a week on the west coast in April you will likely
encounter a little bit of everything. Sun, wind, and rain are
often encountered even within a single day as weather fronts
from the open Pacific Ocean pass by. You can expect daytime
temperatures to be between 10 and 15 degrees Celsius.
What clothing should I bring?
You will be provided with a detailed packing list well in advance of
the tour; however, you’ll need to be prepared for a wide range of
weather conditions.
How should I protect my camera gear?
While rain can easily be wiped off, and many higher end cameras
are well weather sealed, salty sea spray can be very corrosive to
sensitive electronics. A simple shower cap will keep the worst of
the weather at bay, but you may want to consider purchasing
more sophisticated and robust weather protection. See James
Thompson’s Outer Shores Blog post “It IS a rainforest after all”
for more details (www.outershores.ca/2013/05/it-is-a-rainforestafter-all/).
Will I be able to charge my camera batteries and laptop?
Yes, the ship has several AC power outlets with the standard
North American type plug sockets.
How much on board storage is available?
There are several large drawers and a small hanging locker in
each stateroom, perfect for all your clothing, jackets and some
gear. A waterproof tote, securely stored outside on deck will be
provided for each participant also.
Should I bring my laptop computer?
Yes! Although not mandatory, we will be critiquing our work
during the trip and providing on-the-fly post-processing tips.
There will be downtime each day during which you can work on
your images.
How do I book this tour?
To reserve you berth on this tour we request that you provide
a $1000 CAD deposit that is fully refundable until 90 days prior
to your departure date. At this time your balance becomes due
in full, and payments becomes non-refundable. If you have to
cancel inside of 90 days, we will endeavour to find a replacement
participant for you, or you can transfer your payment to one of
our other expeditions in the same or following year.
39
Thank you for making every day an
adventure and opportunity to learn and
enjoy this wonderful coast and all it has
to offer. A great crew and a great trip.
Lynn and Dave Haggarty, Outer Shores Travellers
40
The beauty and gentleness of the whole
trip takes you away from the crazy pace
of the world. The peace stays with you.
George Brinkman, Outer Shores Traveller
41
If you have any questions about our
expeditions, or a specific detail about the
expedition you have booked, please let
us know by phone or visit our website for
more information.
360 B Harbour Road
Victoria, British Columbia
V9A 3S1, Canada
Photo Credits: James Thompson, Ryan Flett, Gem
Salsberg, Tavish Campbell, and Russell Markel.
1-855-714-7233 (Toll Free in North America)
1-250-220-2311 (Local and International)
42
info@outershores.ca