Biomimicry for the fashion industry Short note by Giuliano Benelli

Biomimicry for the fashion industry
Short note by Giuliano Benelli
( benelli.giuliano@gmail.com)
Introduction
Biomimicry ( or biomimetics) is the imitation of the models, systems, and elements of nature for
the purpose of solving complex human problems ( from Wikipedia). The term biomimetics was
introduced by Schmitt in the early 1960s; it comes from the word bios, meaning of life, and
mimesis, meaning to imitate. Biomimetics is an emerging science that emulates nature’s
strategies and patterns to direct product design, processes, and polizie as well as draws inspiration
from the living world. The word biomimicry appeared in 1982 and was generalized in 1997 by
Janine Benyus in the book Biomimicry: Innovation Inspired by Nature, where is defined as a “new
science that studies nature’s models and then imitates or takes inspiration from these designs and
processes to solve human problems”. Benyus suggests looking to Nature as a “Model, Measure,
and Mentor” and emphasizes sustainability as an objective of biomimicry. More
simply, Biomimicry is the way to generate innovation inspired by Nature.
Biomimicry could in principle be applied in many fields as a consequence of about 3.8 billion
years of nature development and about 30 million species. Biomimicry is not a new idea. In fact
since time immemorial, simple people and scientists have been watching and studied nature’s
best ideas and then imitates these designs and processes to find answers and solve many
situations in the human history. However in recent years biomimicry has been catched the eye of
designers and researchers to develop new ideas in a concept of sustainable.
Biomimicry brings nature and technology together to create exciting new fabrics that are smarter
and more sustainable. Some real results deriving from biomimicry are presented in ” 14 Smart
Inventions Inspired by Nature: Biomimicry” by Bloomberg.
Many innovative ideas have been derived by the observation of nature. As an example Leonardo
da Vinci applied biomimicry to the study of birds in the hope of enabling human flight; through
observation the anatomy and flight of birds he proposed notes and sketches of "flying machines" (
figure 1). These ideas, together the observations of pigeons in flight, inspired for the Wright
Brothers in craeting and Flying the first airplane in 1903 ( figure 2).
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Figure 1 - Drawing of Leonardo's flying machine
( https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ornitottero)
Figure 2 - Flying machine of Wright Brothers in 1902
(https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ornitottero)
An another classical example of biomimicry real application has been derived by the observation
of the lotus ( figure 3) and its leafs ( figure 4). The bumpy surface of a lotus leaf acts as a selfcleaning mechanism: dirt is cleansed off the surface naturally by water, for instance, during a rain
shower. Even the smallest of breezes on the plant causes a subtle shift in the angle of the plant
allowing gravity to remove the dirt without the plant having to expend any energy. The lotus leaf
has a series of protrusions on the order of 10 μm (1.0 x 10- 5 m) high covering its surface; each
protrusion is itself covered in bumps of a hydrophobic, waxy material that are roughly 100 nm (1 x
10-7 m) in height. When water droplets are applied to the lotus leaf, they sit lightly on the tips of
the hydrophobic protrusions as if on a bed of nails (see Figure 5). This same idea has been applied
to the design of new building materials such as paints, tiles, textiles, and glass that reduce the
need for detergents and also reduces maintenance and material replacement costs. A typical
example is the eco-friendly house paint called Lotusan, developed by the German company ISPO;
this exterior paint employs a microstructure modeled after the hydrophobic leaves of the lotus
plant to minimize the contact area for water and dirt ( figure 6).
Figure 3 – The lotus flower
Figure 4 – The lotus leaf
( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_effect)
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Figura 5. Computer-generated microscopic image of a lotus leaf with water droplets showing the
double structure of the leaf and the protrusions from the leaf covered in a rough, waxy material,
which creates its superhydrophobic surface ( image from
https://www.teachengineering.org/view_lesson.php?url=collection/duk_/lessons/duk_surfaceten
sionunit_lessons/duk_surfacetensionunit_less4.xml)
The self-cleaning and water-repellent qualities of superhydrophobic surfaces have the potential
for many practical applications.
Figure 6 – Lotusan product derived by observation of lotus behaviour and its utilization for selfcleaning paint (http://jncc.defra.gov.uk/page-5592-theme=print )
Fashion and biomimicry
Biomimicry can support designers and producers of fashion apparel living inspirations when
developping their ranges. Biomimicry can support fashion industry to:

look in to nature for remodeling the fascinating innovations;

get interesting visual and aesthetic sense;

recreate visual and tactile textures.
In the following some simple and obvious examples of the biomimicry in the clopthing fashion are
briefly presented in figures 7, 8, 9 and 10.
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Figure 7 - Sheep
Figure 8 - Whool
Figure 9 – Bear
Figure 10 - Fur
Some success stories of biomimicry in fashion
Velcro
Invented in 1948, Velcro has become a textbook example of biomimicry. Velcro is a device for
fast closing of garments,, shoes, bags .... constituted by two strips of synthetic fabric that are joined
between them with a simple pressure. The idea was developed by the swiss engineer George de
Mestral inspired by the small flowers that clung tightly to the fur of his dog du
during walks ( figure 11
and 12). Analyzing them under the microscope,
microscope de Mestral noticed that each petal presented at
the summit a tiny hook, able to get stuck virtually wherever he found a foothold natural. From this
observation it was implemented the Velcro strips composed by simple striped nylon combined, a
furry fabric and equipped with many small hooks that attach securely to the slot
slot, presenting the
mechanism of "capture "observed
observed in nature.
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Figure 11 - Tiny hooks covering the burr
https://goo.gl/5eCv1K
Figure 12 - Burr
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bur
Figures 12 and 13 - Hook ( figure 12)
1 and loops ( figure 13)) in Velcro ( "Velcro Loops" by
Alexander Klink - Own work. Licensed under CC BY 3.0 via Commons https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Velcro_Loops.jpg#/media/File:Velcro_Loops.jpg
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Velcro_Loops.jpg#/media/File:Velcro_Loops.jpg).
Figure 14–
1 An example of Velcro
(https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Georges_de_Mestral#/media/File:Klettverschl
https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Georges_de_Mestral#/media/File:Klettverschluss.jpg
uss.jpg
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Speedo Fastskin FSII swimsuit
The observation of the characteristics of skark skin ( figure 15) was the basis for the design of the
Fastskin FSII swimsuit. The shark skin seems composed by dermal denticles ( Figure 16) that
correspond to varying flow conditions.
Figure 15 – Shark
Figure 16- Dermal dentique in a shark
(https://goo.gl/ahv1rk)
Rougher dermal dentice cover the nose of the animal, while smoother ones amass further back.
Furthermore, longitudinal grooves in the scales serve to channel water more efficiently over their
surface, enhancing thrust. Studies have been carried out first by George Lauder, a professor of
the Harvard University; Lauder will perform experiments to analyze the purpose of these dermal
denticles, and tested the Speedo suits as well, to see how similar they are.
Figure 17 - Speedo Fastskin swimsuit (http://www.swimming-faster.com/)
Morphotex
Morpho butterfly inspired Teijin Fibers Limited has made the world’s first structural chromogenic
fibers “ MORPHOTEX® ”. Morpho butterflies are colored in metallic, shimmering shades of blues
and greens; these colours are not a result of pigmentation but rather are an example of
iridescence through structural coloration. The scales on their wings are made of many layers of
proteins that refract light in different ways, and the color we see often is due entirely to the play
of light and structure rather than the presence of pigments. Teijin Fibers Limited of Japan
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produces Morphotex® fibers. No dyes or pigments are used. Rather, color is created based on the
varying thickness and structure of the fibers. Energy consumption and industrial waste are
reduced because no dye process must be used.
Figure 18 – Butterfly Morpheo
(https://goo.gl/uvzwM4)
Figure 19 - Dress Mimics Butterfly Wing shimmer
(http://goo.gl/NvZ4Bq)
Paramo’s waterproof jackets
Paramo’swaterproof jackets feature fabric technology was inspired by the transpiration activity of
trees. The process is similar to evaporation: pore-like openings in plant foliage, collectively known
as stomata,, composed by minute pores in the epidermis of the leaf or stem of a plant, forming a
slit of variable width that allows movement of gases in and out of the intercellular spaces.Leaf
stomata control plant CO2 absorption through photosynthesis and water loss through
transpiration. The water loss allows the plant to access carbon dioxide for photosynthesis, as well
as to cool itself when the mercury rises. Unlike conventional mineral wax, the company’s Nikwax
treatment leaves spaces between the fibers elastic, open, and breathable. Besides providing
water-repellency, the elastomer also traps air next to the skin, directing moisture away from the
body
and
preventing
external
moisture
from
entering
(http://sites.psu.edu/fbs5037/2015/04/05/blog-3-biomimicry-in-fashion/) .
Figures 20 and 21 -
Paramo’s waterproof jackets
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These notes have been developed with the contribution of Silvia and Rose. A short note is
available also on the blog http://goo.gl/nuz5fn di La Maison Chic di Silvia. This note has been
realized starting from various documents and websites; some are listed below.
Some further readings
1. “Biomimetrics”, Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biomimetics
2. “Biomimicry”, Wikipedia, http://www.wikipedia.or.ke/index.php?title=Biomimicry
3. Biomimicry Institute, “What is Biomimicry”, http://biomimicry.org/what-isbiomimicry/#.VoEL41lUy2o
4. Ask Nature , http://www.asknature.org/article/view/why_asknature
5. “How Biomimicry is inspiring human innovation”, Smithsonian.com
http://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/how-biomimicry-is-inspiring-humaninnovation-17924040/?no-ist
6. “Fashionably Early Designing Australian Fashion Futures “, 9 August 2012, Conference,
https://www.academia.edu/4117306/Biomimicry_Fashion_Practice_pp.6170._Fashionable_Early_Conference_Aug_2012
7. “10 Eco-Fashion Garments Inspired by Nature and biomimicry”, Ecouterre,
http://www.ecouterre.com/10-eco-fashion-garments-inspired-by-nature-and-biomimicry/
8. “7 amazing examples of biomimicry”, mother nature network, http://www.mnn.com/earthmatters/wilderness-resources/photos/7-amazing-examples-of-biomimicry/burr-velcro
9. “Nikwax Analogy”, Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikwax_Analogy
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