- Upstreampaddle

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- Upstreampaddle

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Noel Patrick's CURTIS COAST - a book review:
Authors: Noel Patrick
Publisher: LM Kornbrekke (author's daughter)
This book is a boating guide to the central section of the
Queensland Coast. Sea kayaking often offers its best
rewards when the paddler can explore island chains,
when it is possible to island hop, following the wind,
finding shelter from the weather, wind and wave, both in
paddling and camping, in the lee of the islands, without
the worry of bar crossings. This section of the coast has
extensive island systems, ideal for sea kayaking.
The Curtis Coast guide has detailed maps covering all the
bays, inlets, islands, river mouths and passages from
Bundaberg on the Burnett River, through to the Pioneer
River at Mackay. The book has excellent coverage of the
tropical island groups north of Rockhampton, and useful
information on the unusually large tide range that is found
in the Cape Manifold, Cape Townsend and Thirsty Sound
coastal area.
Revised edition 2003, originally published 1986. A
cruising guide from Bundaberg to Mackay, 284 pages.
Includes maps, aerial photographs, port and marina
notes.
A most valuable feature is the very extensive range of low
altitude aerial photographs of headlands, river entrances,
bays and islands. The detailed maps include channel
approach and departure compass bearings.
Aerial photograph above, and map (quarter scale) left,
both showing Clew Point, and the entrance to Pancake
Creek.
All images and drawings reproducd with permission.
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A Visit to Poyungan Creek
Poyungan Creek is on the west coast of Fraser Island, about
due east from the southern tip of Duck Island, and halfway
up the island. This is mangrove foreshore country, and there
is no low tide access as the creek dries out. At that time,
wide mudflats stretch far out into the Sandy Straits.
A connection to the past makes Poyungan Creek well worth
a visit. And, if nothing else, right behind the good, easy
landing point, described below, is open space for a tent
amongst shady she-oaks, and firm white sand underfoot.
As the creek is good for access after about three hours into
the rising tide, it was used as a loading point for log barges
that would come in with the tide, strand themselves at low
tide, and thus stabilised, load logs. The area was one of the
last active log dumps, up to the late 1980's, and the timber
of the log dump is in good shape.
On the southern side of the bank, only a hundred metres or
so upstream from the creek entrance (best approached
against the northern bank) are two "wharves" consisting of
horizontal rows of logs on the bank. The best landing place,
upon, grey sand, is between the two.
A clear vehicle track runs left and right behind the bank. To
the right the track runs 150 metres parallel to the foreshore.
At that point the rusty iron hulk of the log barge
"Josephine" is visible in the mangroves.
It is possible to make your way back north along the high
tide line of the foreshore on a narrow strip of white sand.
Just before the log dump are the ribs of the timber barge
"Auburn."
The same road that goes right to the Josephine goes left to
Poyungan Forestry Camp, up a track that winds to the ridge
top a kilometre way. A sign reminds the visitor that this is a
National Park, and artifacts are not to be removed.
Houses, trucks, cranes, worksheds and vehicle parts lie
rusting away. A bus has almost disappeared into the scrub
regrowth, the floorboards of the houses are rotting through,
a 1985 magazine lies on the floor, and the rusting chain of a
child's swing frames a water tower. Surely the next storm
will topple the high water tower.
top right: Poyungan Creek
middle: log dump
bottom right: Josephine
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Josephine
Auburn
logging truck
Blitz logging truck
last stop for this bus
logging truck
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text reads: Outside lever high/low speed box
Inside lever winch box
house at Poyungan Forestry Camp
logging truck
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Fraser Island west coast
Sea kayak access is either from Urangan, paddling down the western coastline of Woody Island on a rising tide, then crossing
to Poyungan Creek, or from River Heads to Mackenzie's Wharf or Kingfisher Bay Resort, and paddling north to Poyungan
Creek. Note that the rocks to the south of Poyungan Creek, and the sand spit that connects them to the Fraser shore, need to
be cleared out in the deep water channel, even at high tide. There is a pile channel maker close on the rocks. Enter the creek
close to the northern bank unless approaching the last two hours before the top of the tide.
The Urangan line of approach is recommended as it suits a rising tide. There is an excellent camping area at Jeffrey's Landing
on Woody Island (no water). Kayakers should have their own maps. For ready reference, the distance from South Point
(southern tip) of Woody Island to Poyungan Creek is exactly 6.0 kilometres
If intending to camp at Poyungan Creek be prepared with insect repellant (usually only required in the evenings), long sleeved
shirt and long pants, and socks to cover ankles. Make sure your camp is dingo proofed, leave no items accessible, and do not
rely on your tent to keep dingo's from gear. Persons should be safe, use caution.
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Poyungan Forestry Camp - track from Poyungan Creek log dumps
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sail
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A Sail for a Sea Kayak
Sails are a well known accessory for a sea kayak, but after
laying out money for a sea kayak, good paddle, pfd, spray
deck, flares, paddling jacket, neoprene booties, pump and
so on, I hadn't got around to buying a sail.
The Barracuda sail looked good. It was recommended by
the manufacturer of the boat I have, it could easily be
removed, and it was possible to put up and lower the mast
from sitting down in the cockpit. The manufacturer advised
that no deck strengthening was required.
The mast has a swivel fitting which is attached to the deck,
located where it will keep the sail forward of, and clear of
paddle strokes, when paddling, and clear of the cockpit
when lowered and lashed next to the cockpit.
The mast fittings are a system of three stays, one on the left
and one on the right to hold it upright, and a forward stay to
raise the mast and lock it upright. The manufacturer
included three fairleads for these three stays, but, ever
reluctant to drill holes in the fibreglass deck, I used a pulley
(bought at Whitworth Marine, Brisbane for $2.85) to do the
same job for the forward fairlead.
fairleads, screws, cleats, cord, instructions
From the same source I got some more stainless steel
screws with nylon locknuts to use instead of self tapping
screws that came with the kit. These screws were used to
anchor the self locking cleats that lock the forestay, and
lock the sheet, next to the cockpit. The unused fairlead was
used to centre the sheet.
It works well, the sail is easy to put up and lower, while
sitting in the cockpit. It can contribute half the work and
speed in light air, and stops the boat going off its forward
glide when I paddle. I slow down much slower, so, less
work by me. The sail area is one square metre.
fairlead for sidestay. lots of silicon to make it water tight
On my sea trials I found that the boat was a bit more "tippy"
in gusty winds. I was aware that in a white water kayak, you
need a close fit in the cockpit so you can balance (or roll)
the boat with hip movement, or thigh/knee bracing.
Well, you need the same fit in a sea kayak to be able to
counterbalance the boat heeling over when the wind gusts,
or waves hit. I bought some closed cell foam to glue on,
under the cockpit rim, so my knees would have a firm
comfortable fit, and give me that control.
right: forestay running from cleat at cockpit, to pulley at forward
toggle, to mast
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A Sail for a Sea Kayak
control lines
sail up
sailing past the Fraser Dawn, Moon Point
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One man's trash.....is another man's treasure
Strippers, harrows, mouldboards, scarifiers and chisel are
all types of ploughs. Most of the tractor drawn farm
machinery that is used today, had an existence a couple of
generations earlier, in the form of horse drawn equipment.
Machinery and horse drawn equipment co-existed for quite a
few years. The online Picture Maroochy photograph
collection in the Maroochy Library has photographs dated at
1910 showing tractors in use, and has a 1940 dated
photograph showing a horse drawn plough at work.
The majority of the fertile riverside land in Maroochy Shire, is
dedicated to growing sugar cane. Its cultivation certainly
predates mechanized farming. Up to the 1960’s or so, the
harvested cane was taken to the mill by tram, and earlier in
the century, cane punts on the Maroochy River pushed by a
tug, were used.
M603341 Cyril Kittle and 3 horse team on William Bullen's farm, Dunethin Rock, 1940
Image courtesy Maroochy Libraries
As a paddler on rural and urban waterways, I am
used to seeing shopping cart trolleys in creeks,
and have seen a few car bodies in the river mud,
even a rusty refrigerator and an iron bed frame or
two.
Recently while paddling on one of the Maroochy
waterways, I saw something different. I saw a
piece of rusty iron lying in the mud at the river’s
edge, and in my mind wrote it off as a piece of
trash. However, I was waiting for a friend
downstream, and while I rested, I took a second
look.
Resting in the river mud was a horse drawn
chisel plough, but amazingly, another 150 metres
upstream was a small horse drawn mouldboard
plough.
M191735 James E. Pearcr Snr with horse drawn plough at Oakey Creek, Kenilworth
Image courtesy Maroochy Libraries
Just above the top of the river bank, and behind a low line of salt water mangroves, was a field of sugar cane. I guess that the
ploughs were sidelined on the field’s edge when tractors took over the work, and in time the ploughs were considered junk to be
pushed over the river bank. So there today they rest, rusting away in a salt water bath twice a day for probably the last 70
years.
On the way back downstream, cruising only a metre out from the bank, I saw the shape of a railway set of points, a track
switching lever. A tramway would once have run to the cane fields behind the river, and the lever would have been used to
change tracks for the cane wagons. Old sections of rail are now seen as posts on river bank retaining walls. The twice daily
inundation with salty water has taken its toll on the ironwork, ploughs and railway line, and they have suffered a sea change into
something rich and strange.
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chisel plough
detail - height adjustment cog on the chisel plough
sugar cane beyond the salt water, muddy bank, and mangroves
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mouldboard plough, looking like a hugh fish hook. note the mouldboard arrow head at the hook's tip
detail -mouldboard ploughshare
detail - chains attach here, and lead to the crossbar, and the horse traces
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tramline set of points lever
tramline lengths used to hold retaining walls
set of points lever to change tracks
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- Image © Wikipedia
aus race
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2007 Gregory Race
The Gregory River, over 300 kilometres by road northwest of Mt Isa, is spring fed clear water that flows year
round. The river is overhung by pandanus palms and
paperbark trees, and consists of a series of
waterholes linked by rapids, including small falls and
rock gardens. The Gregory Race is 43 kilometres long,
organised by Mount Isa's North West Canoe Club. The
fastest time to date is 2 Hours, 43 minutes, 23 seconds
set by Matt Flower and Chad Meek in 2001.
The 2007 race, no. 32, saw 161 boats compete. Dave
Zeller won the full marathon event in a time of three
hours and thirteen minutes. He used to live in Mount
Isa but now lives in Western Australia, and returned
for the event.
The fastest female competitor was Jamie Gardiner
with a time of three hours and 29 minutes.
Next race no. 33 Sunday May 4, 2008
All photographs Vicki Wilson
Photographs courtesy ABC North West QLD
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The Clarence River
S. S. Induna
The road bridge over the Clarence River, from the
Pacific Highway into Grafton, looks better than it
feels to drive over. It has a very sharp corner to the
left, just as the road begins to descend into Grafton.
The bridge was made to open, a section raising to
permit ships to pass through that otherwise could not
transit. That raised section has not been opened since
about 1965.
Nevertheless, that double decker bridge, with its
railway line under the road, was a very welcome
addition, when it opened in 1932. The Sydney to
Brisbane railway line used to stop at Grafton.
Passengers would stay overnight in a hotel on the
southern bank, while the train took the ferry.
the bridge over the Clarence, Grafton
Two ferries carried the carriages across, but not the
engine. The SWALLOW had two railway lines on
deck, and the INDUNA had one line. When the new
bridge opened, the INDUNA was moored at the
southern bank, a couple of hundred metres upstream
from the bridge. In 2007, the ship is still there.
To convert the ship to a train ferry, about 800 tons of
steel and concrete were added to the hull and upper
deck to stabilise the ship to carry carriages on deck.
When concern was expressed about having the heavy
ex-train ferry moored upstream from the new bridge
in times of flood, holes were cut in the hull, and she
settled into the river mud. Part of the bow is now in a
park.
view fron the Bowls Club verandah, South Grafton
part of the bow, in a park
no public access by land, but the grass is mowed
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An extraordinary history
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S. S. Induna
But this is no ordinary wreck. The coal steamer
INDUNA was built in 1891 by Hall, Russell &
Company, Limited, a shipbuilder based in
Aberdeen, Scotland. Known locally as Hall Russell,
the company was founded in 1864 and originally
manufactured iron ships. The ship was built for the
South African trade, with owner J T Rennie. Her
dimensions were overall: 14 1/12 x 28 1/12 x 190
3/6ft. Gross Tonnage: 699 ton.
On December 21, 1899 the INDUNA left Durban
enroute to Cape Town, carrying a young Winston
Churchill who was on the run after escaping from
captivity by the Boers. Churchill was covering the
Boer War as war correspondent, but was accused of
being a spy and put in a Pretoria prison.
refiitting the ship as a ferry
image courtesy Clarence River Historical Society Inc.
In December 1904, the ship was sold to Burns,
Philip & Co Ltd, Sydney, for use on their New
Hebrides, Gilbert, Ellice and Marshall Islands
service.
When war broke out in August 1914, the ship was
captured by the Germans who had Pacific Island
territory in the Marshall Islands. The Germans
wanted her steaming coal for the German naval
raider Wolf.
Later, in October, she was freed by the Japanese,
who were on the Allied side in World War One. The
Japanese sought to claim the ship as spoils of war,
and Captain I.R. Handley, Master of the INDUNA,
protested to the Japanese Naval Lieutenant at Jaluit
(in the Marshall Islands) against the exclusion of
the ship.
Captain Handley later retired to Butaritari in the
Gilbert & Ellice Islands, and met a tragic fate in
1943. Invading Imperial Japanese forces overran
the islands, and having a long memory for a slight,
took the captain out on the beach and beheaded him
without trial.
In 1920 the INDUNA was first sold to The Patrick
Steamship Company Limited, then to Patrick
Steamships Ltd. In June 1925, it was sold to the
Railway Commissioners for New South Wales,
Sydney.
refitting as a ferry
image courtesy Clarence River Historical Society Inc.
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St Helena
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St Helena, Moreton Bay
St Helena floats in Moreton Bay like a
deep green emerald on a shining sea.
The cows grazing on the gently rising
hillside seem to be cropping a garden
lawn, in a world of peace, quiet, and
tranquility.
How then did St Helena island come to be
called The Hellhole of the Pacific?
St Helena was a Queensland prison from
1867 to 1932. The visitor to the island
today sees roofless stone walls that are the
few remains of a once extensive complex
of buildings.
Only 10% or so of the original prison
buildings remain. What is not there now
are the cells, one for each inmate, and the
workshops that made St Helena a prison
factory with a captive workforce that could
be threatened with punishments that
ranged from withholding of tobacco, tea
and sugar rations, to solitary confinement.
Twelve hours and more a day prisoners
laboured. The entire prison was
surrounded by a four metre high wooden
stockade. Inside this fence, further walls
separated prisoners into groups, dependant
upon their race, their crimes, and their
sentences. High watchtowers stood at
intervals along the stockade walls.
Some prisoners, rated as high security
risks, spent their entire sentences inside the
stockade. Others went fishing, tended
livestock, hand watered large orchards and
fields, burnt shell to make lime, or quarried
and built buildings out of local beach rock.
Prisoners were trained as tailors, and then
worked for a twelve hour day in
workshops.
They sat cross legged on wooden benches, sewing uniforms for Police, leather equipment for the Queensland Defence Forces, and sails for
government ships. St Helena was well regarded by prison authorities and governments world wide, held up as a model prison, because due to its
sweatshops and farming enterprises, the prison was run at a profit for Queensland.
Groves of olive trees produced olive oil that won a prize at an exhibition in Italy. Maize, potatoes, hay and vegetables thrived in the rich
volcanic soil. Sugar cane was extensively grown on the island. The sugar mill crushed over 75 tons of locally-grown sugar annually by 1880.
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St Helena
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Paddlers will need a sea kayak to visit St Helena. The closest launch site (six kilometres) is in Boat Passage, just short of the shipping terminal at
Fisherman's Island, mouth of the Brisbane River. Extensive mudbanks block direct access coming and going, at low tide. The best place to land
on St Helena is on the small bach immediately east of the jetty on the south wst point of the island. Public access is limited unless accompanied
by a tour guide, but you can walk up to the gate near the main prison ruins.
tram car... a light railway ran from the jetty to the prison
the locally quarried beach rock crumbles at a touch
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St Helena
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cells
fields
tailors
tram 1928
Images courtesy of Queensland Prison and Penal Historical
Association, http://www.qppha.com.au
QPPHA has done much to preserve St Helena prison. Known to
indigenous Australians as Noogoon, the island was under farming
leases from 1932 until 1979 when it achieved National Park status.
Without the historical material that preservation and restoration
provides, the ruins on St Helena are some stone walls in a field.
It is the interpretation which helps bring to life the period view of
colonial Queensland culture, and the society that was proud of its
model prison. Prisoners and warders alike lived a life of isolation and
solitude, subject to rules, regulations and a rigid social structuring of
existence. Today, olive trees still fruit on St Helena.
warder's cottage
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Unfortunately we have had to cancel this years BV100 due to enormous weed growth on the
Brisbane River. We are however, currently organising another marathon charity paddle to
raise funds for Camp Quality so they do not miss out on these much needed funds.This will
be on the Gold Coast at Varsity Lakes.
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Cairns to Thursday Island
a photo log by Brent King
Ringo photo album
Readers who have a look at the Downloads page on the Upstreampaddle website may have seen a pdf file Cape York 2005.
This is a photo record of a two month sea kayak paddle from Cairns to Thursday Island. Such trip reports are a useful guide
for other paddlers considering completing one of the great adventures in Australia. The record consists of 80 or so photos;
some are typed up journal entries, some are easy reference maps showing paddle legs, and the rest are great wilderness
photographs.
As those familiar with FNQ (Far North Queensland) will know, the trade winds blow fairly consistantly at 20 to 25 knots,
there is some very isolated country up there, some big crocodiles to avoid on land and in salt water (far from mangrove
swamps!) and other marine wildlife including sharks and marine stingers. I emailed Brent some questions about his trip...
What make of boat were you paddling, how long have you had it, and how did it manage the trip and the weight? ...and a few
other questions. Here, below, is the letter I got back. The photographs in this article are from the pdf file which is on the
downloads page.
Brent
Cape Buchan
A Solo Kayak Paddle from Cairns to Cape York by Brent King
I hope this introduction and my logbook will help other kayakers who want to paddle the amazing stretch of coastline from
Cairns to Cape York. I especially encourage those who are keen to paddle that stretch solo. However, such a trip requires
plenty of paddling experience. You need to have already fathomed your physical and mental limits. You also need to spend a
lot of time planning your trip, which includes preparing your boat for heavy weather, checking and re-checking all your gear,
checking the logistics of freighting your boat, and posting food boxes etc.
Once you are north of Cooktown, there are no shops until you get to Horn Island at the top, except perhaps at the Lockhart
River aboriginal mission. The only other human settlements that I know of up that way are the silica mine at cape Flattery, the
resort/research station on Lizard Island, the coconut plantation on Home Island, and the pearling operation on Turtle Head
Island.
You may see the odd yacht or trawler, and you’ll see a freighter at least every day when you are near the sea lanes. Otherwise,
you are on your own. So you have to be dead certain you have everything you need before you set off and you need to be
prepared for the worst as there might not be anyone around to help you if everything goes wrong.
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Ringo photo album
Learning to paddle
Whenever I’m out on the water in my kayak I’m learning. I’ve found that the best way to glean the most from my paddling
experience is to keep a good log. I always keep a waterproof logbook handy and keep a note of my paddling speed; and the
condition of the wind, weather, and sea. After a trip I can look back on my log and work out my basic paddling speed, how
long I can paddle before I’m stuffed, and how many days I can paddle before I need a rest day. I use this knowledge of my
physical limits to plan ahead when I’m on my next trip.
.
Cherry Tree bay
Cape Melville
Planning the Trip
Cairns to cape York has been paddled many times and there are heaps of trip reports on the internet. I suggest you print them
and take them with you as they come in handy for your day to day planning. I also take photocopies of the relevant pages of
‘Dreamtime Voyage’ – Paul Caffyn’s book about his one year epic paddle around Australia. Whenever I’m paddling a stretch
of coastline I can get a rough idea of how long it will take me to paddle A to b by doubling the time it took him, and adding on
a few rest days. Alan Lucas’s ‘Cruising the Coral coast’ is a great resource and much more interesting and informative then
the Admiralty Pilot. It’s a yachties pilot and gives excellent descriptions and detailed maps of many anchorages and cruising
routes along the Queensland coast.
Navigation
The best book on kayak navigation that I know of, is ‘An Introduction to Sea-Kayak Navigation by David Birch. John Dowd’s
‘Manual for Long Distance Sea-kayaking’ also has a good navigation section. I suggest you carry all the relevant charts for the
trip even if you are navigating by GPS, just in case you drop your GPS in the water. I think there are three scales of RAN
(Royal Australian Navy) charts for Cairns to Cape York, and I used the medium scale. I found these charts were detailed
enough for my needs and I didn’t have to pay a fortune for all the small scale charts I’d have needed to cover the same stretch
of coast.
I cut my charts up so that they were the width of my chart case, glued them back to back, and covered them with clear selfadhesive book covering plastic which is cheap by the roll. The charts still get wet and the plastic delaminates after a while, but
they hold together long enough for the trip. I prepare my charts with china bone pencils and use a pair of heavy duty
carpenter’s dividers (and keep them well oiled and with corks on the pointy bits) as they are cheaper than the proper brass
dividers.
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Ringo photo album
Navigation - continued
My Suunto deck compass, which attaches to my bow deck with a couple of elastic straps, works well. I prefer a cheap
engineer’s compass as a bearing compass as it is compact, accurate and still works when a wave tilts the boat.
The most useful navigation tool I use is a specially made compass rose made of a square of clear plastic with a string attached
to the centre. I simply line the rose up to the lines of latitude and longitude on the chart, put the centre of the rose over my
position, pull the string taut to where I want to go, and read my heading off the compass rose. Boat Books sell 0º, 19º and 38º
compass roses.
Safety Gear
The most important piece of safety gear you can carry on this trip is you head. KEEP YOUR HEAD TOGETHER. I know it
sounds silly but you really have to be aware of everything you do all the time when you're in the middle of nowhere. For
example, don't just leave your vhf radio sitting on your deck untethered and then turn atound to check your rudder, because
when you turn around again, you'll knock the radio into the water.
Each day there are hundreds of little opportunities like this where things can go wrong just from doing some stupid little thing.
Furthermore, when things do go wrong- DON"T PANIC. For instance, you are bound to be caught by bad weather on your
trip, and when it hits you just have to keep paddling and thinking straight as usual. If you get all panicky because of a storm
then you'll start making mistakes. So keep your head together and don't panic.
I keep a self-floating EPIRB fitted on its bracket behind my seat for quick release.
A flare container sits between my legs and is anchored to my seat with a quick release clip.It contains parachute and hand-held
flares, some water, a plastic V Distress Flag, a pocket survival manualpublished by the Australian government for public
servants venturing out into the bush. It's the best Australian survival manual I've seen and describes how to find water and
food in the bush. I think it might be out of print now. sorry but I've forgotten the title.
I keep 1.5 litres of vinegar beside my seat for jellyfish stings.
I keep a small survival kit in the pocket of my spray skirt. It contains waterproof matches, a flint, a lighter, fish hooks and line,
a miniature compass, condoms for carrying water (one condom holds about a lire of water), razor blades, waterproof paper and
a pencil, a candle stub for fire lighting, a magnifying glass, some water purification tablets.
I have a drogue folded on my deck ready for deployment. It's attached to the bow linw but I also keep 30 metres of extra line
next to my drogue. I also have a stern line and a line to tie to my paddle in surf or rough weather.
north of Ussher Point
Night Island
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Ringo photo album
Safety Gear - continued
I wear a type II life jacket all the time while paddling and keep a sharp diver's knife attached to it. Don't use your diver's knife
for opening oysters or you'll break the tip off. I also have a whistle and signal mirror attached to my lifejacket. I keep an
inflatable handy to make an outrigger with my paddle at 90º to my boat. The paddle blade sticks under thick elastic cord
behind my seat. On this trip, I wore my farmer john sleeveless wetsuit on most days, and usually folded the top down. I had
this wetsuit custom made by Rubber Jungle with a zip fly. I used a Scotty long barrel hand pump which I kept under the seat.
The Tasnanian kayakers use battery operated bilge pumps which drains the cockpit in minutes at the flick of a switch. This
leaves the hands free for bracing in heavy weather. All the parts are available from a good chandlerey, and I think someone
has posted on the net instructions on how to fit one.
I keep my VHF radio inside two dry bags which sit on top of my flare container between my legs. I always have a set of new
batteries in case of an emergenct. I keep a small first aid kit beside my seat and a larger one in my cargo hold on top of
everything.
Cedar Bay
dawn Snapper Island
Staying sane
You can get a little crazy after being alone for weeks and not talking to anyone, especially when you're taking too many rest
days. My two best tools for staying sane were an AM radio for nightime and a thick complicated novel. I also kept a journal
(the one in the pdf file and on Ringo) and wrote letters (which can be posted at Portland Roads). Paul Caffyn would go over
the plot of a favourite book in his mind as he paddled. I also read a book by a guy who paddled around Ireland. He carried a
pile of laminated song lyrics with him. He'd have a different song on his deck each day and he could sing as loud as he wanted
to as no-one would hear him.
Weather
If you paddle Cairns to Cape York in winter like I did, expect persistant 20 knot South easterlies. they can keep blowing for a
week or more without abating. This is usually a good thing as they are blowingyou in the right direction. however, also expect
to be out on the water when things start geting uncorfortable - in 30 knots or more.
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Ringo photo album
Weather - continued
My main source of weather forecasts was from Telstra Seaphone on my VHF radio. However, there were places where I
couldn't pick up Telstra Seaphone so i'd get my forecast from ABC local radio. Get a list of all the Telstra Seaphone channels
and weather times. Also, register with Telstra Seaphone just in case you're out of mobile phone range and need to make a call.
It costs nothing to register, but costs a lot to calI. Also get a list of the ABC frequencies and find out what time they broadcast
the marine weather forecasts. I used an ICOM VHF radio. I chose the water resistant over the waterproof model because the
cheaper water resistant model allows you to use either alkaline AA or Ni-Cad rechargeable AA's whilst the waterproof model
needs mains power to charge. It might be an idea to check out the MF/HF radios, oe even those new digital radios that use text
instead of speech.
Water and Food
There is a well marked spring at Cape Melville and there is supposed to be a tank beside the NPWS shack on Flinders Island.
There is a public water tank near the beach at Portland Roads. There is also a freshwater creek on the north side of False
Orford Ness (see day 24), as well as freshwater soaks and a creek 2 miles to the northwest. I usually carried two weeks of
water with me just in case I got stuck on an island in bad weather. This was about 42 litres. When I finished a water container
I'd refill it with salt water to keep my boat trim. 4 litre metho bottles male good water bottles as do the heavy duty 5.5 litre
blue rectangular bottles they sell at Coles.
I had too much food with me so I didn't put much effort into fishing which is a shame. You can post food boxes care of Geoff
Pope, Postmaster, at Portland Roads. I used an Australian metho stove which was cheap, very efficient, and put out plenty of
flame.
Miscellanous
I buy all my camping gear from a Canadian company MEC. For this trip I used an MSR Microlite tent which works well in
wind and rain, a MEC Raven down sleeping bag, and a self inflating mattress. I freighted my kayak back down to Cairns for
$100 with SEASWIFT who have depots on both Horn and Thursday Islands. It took about a week to get back. Protect the hull
with plenty of cardboard, or it may get damaged in shipping. My kayak travelled on top of an old pallet with nails sticking out
of it, and got badly scratched. You'll find the cheapest flights out of Horn island are to be found at the little Bible Shop on T.I.
The guy who runs it also runs a travel agency. He got me on a plane with a guy who was going back home to Cairns with only
an engineer as a passenger. It cost me $357 flying with Air Tropics, which was half the price of QANTAS.
That's about all I can think of. Good luck to all you crazy solo kayakers. Email me if you have questions or you would like to
shout me a beer in exchange for a yarn. I'm usually in Townsville or Brisbane. My email address is brent.king@jcu.edu.au
.
Buchan Point
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The Feathercraft Folding Kayak
Wisper - length 4.75m
beam - 58.75cm
weight - 17kg - light skin option 15kg
Kahuna - length 4.5m
beam - 64cm
weight - 16kg
Khatsalano - length 5.4m
beam - 56cm
weight - 20.5kg
K1 Expedition - length 5m
beam - 63.5cm
weight - 23.25kg
Klondike - length 5.35m
beam - 77.5
weight - 34.5kg
K2 Expedition - length 6m
beam - 84cm
weight - 39kg
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The frame of the Feathercraft kayak is made from 6061-T6 aluminum/magnesium alloy, what is
referred to as aircraft frame specifications aluminium. The cross ribs are made from high-density
polyethylene. Every Feathercraft kayak comes with, and folds up into, its own pack. The travel-style
backpack is standard with all single kayaks, and features a fully adjustable, ladder-suspension system,
padded shoulder straps and wide hipbelt.
The Feathercraft is available is a range of different models to suit different paddlers. The model options
include single and double boats, large and smaller cockpit sizes, Expedition boats, models such as the
Khatsalano for paddlers who have good paddling skills and are at home in a less beamy and stable boat,
and,a model, the Klondike, for an optional open cockpit, canoe style. Feathercraft are a Canadian made
boat, you can ckeck out their internet website for full details and boat specifications. The photographs
on the previous page are of a K2 Expedition fitted with a sail.
Over the next few pages we show the assembly sequence of the Feathercraft K1, the "flagship" of the
Feathercraft kayaks. This is the boat best suited to extended trips, ocean expeditioning and long
distance touring, although it does very nicely for an afternoon's paddle too!
.
the K1 in Feathercraft backpack (23,25 kg)
contents of backpack prior to assembly
frame sections and rudder packed in bag
K1 skin, and frame sections
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frame "shock-corded"(for bow and stern sections)
bow frame ready for crossribs to be attached
installation of crossribs into bow frame section
bow and stern frames
sliding the bow frame into the K1 skin
bow frame installed in skin
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bow/stern frames in, mid-section frame next (logerons)
installing the last crossribs through cockpit opening
nearing final assembly - logerons, crossribs, seat
sling and cockpit installed
Image sequence runs left, right, left, right etc.
Image of Feathercraft K2 Expedition under sail, and
Feathercraft models, provided by Feathercraft
Images of assembly sequence provided by geewhy1,
Australian Folding Kayak Group
assembled
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Expedition Sea Kayaking, Scotland
What makes for a great sea kayaking
venue? A list of the elements that
make a venue a special place might
include; scenic beauty, isolation,
wildlife to be seen, an interesting
history to the area, and the ability to
make a journey, to travel, over several
days, to a new land.
Cornwall Sea Kayaks take a seven day
sea kayak expedition through the wild
and remote isles and coastline of
North West Scotland, in the parish of
Assynt. The long coastline of Assynt
comprises steep sandstone cliffs,
narrow rocky inlets, and a number of
superb white sandy beaches.
Along the Stoer Peninsula, the sea
kayaker paddles in close under the
black 70 metre cliffs, while the sea
birds swirl overhead. Up near the
headland, stands the sea stack of the
Old Man of Stoer, a pillar of
sandstone.
above: Old Man of Stoer
below: Scotland
These cliffs and offshore island are
home to hundreds of thousands of
seabirds. Guillemots, razorbills, and
great skuas are the main draw, but
kittiwakes, arctic skuas, fulmars and
puffins also make an appearance. It is
possible to see whales, dolphins and
basking sharks in the waters and Grey
Seals sun themselves on the rocks.
The Scottish Wildlife Trust Handa
Island Reserve lies just over a
kilometre offshore from the coast
near Scourie.
The coastal land and offshore islands
here were home to crofters, who
farmed subsistence level land, and
used sea kelp to fertilize their fields.
Pushed onto these marginal areas by
the great land Clearances of the 18th
Century, ravaged by the Potato Blight
of the 1840’s and depopulated by the
exodus of young men in the First
World War, the Crofters have in some
areas reclaimed their original lands.
The heather and bracken hide the
fallen remains of their houses.
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Expedition Sea Kayaking, Scotland
Suggested reading:
Sea Kayaking Cornwall for expedition details and photo gallery
http://www.seakayakingcornwall.com/
Fanagmore
http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/scourie/fanagmore/index.html
Assynt Crofters
http://www.assyntcrofters.co.uk/
http://www.assynt.info/page5.html
Island life on Rona
http://www.isleofrona.com/history.htm
Highland Clearances
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Highland_Clearances
.
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Scottish Islands Expedition
Course Outline
The Assynt area of Sutherland is regarded as the last true wilderness area of the UK mainland, and it is with
the backdrop of some of the most beautiful highland scenery that you will be paddling.
The group will be self contained with our kayaks for 5 days out on the water choosing the best route for the
conditions given to us. We will negotiate our way between the many spectacular islands of the Summer
Isles starting from the Ullapool area. During the journey we can help to develop your kayaking skills and
teach you how to plan the days paddling agenda, taking in the weather, tides etc. We shall involve the
group in the decision making process and look at on the water decisions and navigation in detail. During
this trip you will sit by a fire on a deserted beach toasting marshmallows sipping local whisky as stories are
told of the day’s adventures.
Experience required
Clients need to have experience of or about the intermediate level i.e. BCU 4*. We will be covering up to
20-30km per day. If you are unsure if you are of the right standard please feel free to get in touch.
What it includes
The course fee includes all of the equipment needed, instruction and transport during the course (if
required). The equipment we can supply are Wetsuits, thermal tops, water proof kayaking jackets,
buoyancy aids, helmets, spray decks and of course Kayaks and paddles. We use top level equipment
maintained to a high standard to ensure you are comfortable and safe out on the water.
Cost
£395
Location and times
The expedition will meet in Ullapool on the morning of Sunday 3rd of June. At 1200 on the waterfront,
you’ll recognise the Sea Kayaking Cornwall van. On June the 8th we will be back in Ullapool at around
6pm.
What to bring
Camera to capture the action off and on the water.
Food for 5 x Lunch, 4 x evening meal, 4 x breakfast. (Dried pasta and sauce, cereal or porridge and
sandwiches, oh and treats.)
A flask of hot drink and drinking products.
Spare warm clothes
Dry bags or heavy duty refuse sacks.
Sleeping bag (let us know if required)
Sleeping mat (let us know if required)
Tent (let us know if required)
Stove and pans (let us know if required)
Knife fork spoon and plate or bowl.
Spending money
We are looking forward to seeing you in Scotland.
The Ship in the Swamp
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Tales of lost ships, of weathered timbers
seen emerging from the sands after a
storm, and of silver coins picked up in the
sand dunes, seem to haunt Australian
folklore.
The story of the Spanish ship of Swan Bay,
North Stradbroke Island, right in
Brisbane’s backyard, is that a wooden
wreck was sighted in a swamp, several
times, and that Old Portuguese or Spanish
artifacts were found nearby.
Swan Bay is a shallow inlet just north of
Jumpinpin Bar between North and South
Stradbroke Islands. The islands were
joined until about 1890, but the connecting
land was only a narrow bar of sand.
Supposedly, at some past time, the channel
was open, as it is now, and a wooden ship
sailed in, and made passage up Swan Bay
to Freshwater Creek, and then into 18 Mile
Swamp, where it eventually sank or ran
aground.
Artifacts said to have been found nearby
include a sailor’s knife, a sword blade, and
a brass button. The wreck was sighted in
1836, then again in the 20th Century.
Apparently, the reeds in the swamp
overgrow the timbers (now burnt level
with the ground) making it almost
impossible to find.
Anyway, you can read a more complete
telling of the tale at a website devoted to
the legend written by a Brisbane
archeologist.
Swan Bay is surrounded by mangrove
swamp. North west of the bay is 18 Mile
Swamp, which lies between the western
vegetated old dunes of Stradbroke, and the
eastern coastal dunes.
This freshwater swamp drains into Swan Bay through Freshwater Creek, at the north western end of the bay. The old dunes to the west lie in
sand mining leases. It is in the southern end of the 18 Mile Swamp the wreck searcher must look. It took me close to two hours to paddle from
Jacobs Well to Swan Bay. When I was at The Bedroom, I could see haystacks of spray exploding up at Jumpinpin, but as I skirted the western
shore, I saw the rough water was only up towards the bar.
Swan Bay is almost closed off by sandbanks that are above high tide level. I found Freshwater Creek entrance back in the north western corner
of Swan Bay. The creek water was a burnt orange colour. I paddled up to where fallen logs blocked the channel. By then my 5.3 metre kayak
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could not turn in the narrow channel. To
the west the way by land was almost
impassible, with thick forests of
mangroves, and head high forests of fern.
By my GPS the higher sand hills of
Stradbroke were only a kilometre to the
west. I did not have the two hours I
estimated it would take one way, as the
creek was drying out
To the east the land was under several
centimetres of freshwater, and my feet sank
to the knee in the sandy soil at every step.
Here, it was more open, with tall trees,
some casuarinas and palms, and animal
trails. Water was draining into the creek,
and the sound of small waterfalls was
everywhere.On the way back downstream I
had to portage a log across the creek. At
half tide I only just made it out of the
shallow waters of Swan Bay.
top left: east bank
below left: leaving Freshwater Creek
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top right: east bank
below right: muddy banks and ferns
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The second possible line of approach
was to walk in from the west coast of
Stradbroke Island, from Slipping
Sands. It is only a 7 kilometre paddle
from Cabbage Tree Point to Slipping
Sands, along the southern end of
Russell Island, and down beside Cobby
Cobby Island. I paddled over in my
white water kayak, which is slow, but
easy to hide in the bushes.
There on Stradbroke are long very old
dunes running south-east to northwest. I managed to cross over several
lines of dunes working east. The dune
slopes and tops were generally open
and easy to traverse, but the gullies in
between were filled with a dense mat of
vine vegetation, that slowed my
progress to half a kilometre an hour.
As the vine mat was often head height,
I could only go forward by first lying
down on my back on the vegetation,
and then standing up and walking
forward, still half a metre or so above
the ground. I gave up after only an
hour.
Further down south I found a wallaby
track that lead east, then north, along
the edge of the swamp. The old dunes
face the swamp with an almost vertical
escarpment, and it was possible to
travel along the cliff top. The walker will
find themselves some fifty to sixty
metres above the swamp.
top left: east bank
below left: leaving Freshwater Creek
top right: Banksia bottlebrushes and gum trees on the dunes. Jumpinpin bar in centre
below left: flower in the dunes right: Slipping Sands
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The 18 Mile Swamp area is difficult to
get to. It takes time, planning, and
protective clothing.. It is 28 kms return
to Freshwater Creek in Swan Bay, 14
kms return to Slipping Sands. and no, I
did'nt see a ship.
top: Jumpinpin bar across Swan Bay
right: on the dune escarpment
lower: palms in mid-distance line Freshwater Creek
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Rah Island, Vanuatu
I asked about the canoe race at Rah Island, in October. I
spoke to VanuatuCustomTravel , and back came some
photographs, and an article from an island visitor.
I Love Island Time by Salina Scott
Clocks are overrated. Unless of course your catching a
plane, running late for a meeting or boiling an egg. My
days on Mota Lava and its island neighbour Rah existed
without the need to know the time, which is just how a
holiday should be. There are no clocks anywhere, and no
one wears a watch. This is the ultimate in relaxation –
welcome to the Banks.
The journey in a small plane is part of the intrepid
adventure of getting to this region of Vanuatu. It carries
you over multiple lush green islands, surrounded by coral
reefs and hypnotic turquoise water. The flights seem
more like a sky bus for locals hopping on and off to
different islands with various over sized fruits, from
melons to pineapples.
As soon as you step off the plane onto Mota Lava friendly
locals greet you. It is as clear as their oceans to see that
Vanuatu’s main attraction is the islanders. They are the
beauty that lies around them personified.
Rah Island is a small pocket of beauty off the mainland of
Mota Lava and is only 1.7km in radius. It has around 200250 inhabitants and resembles a textbook paradise. This
is where my travel companions and I were staying in
beach bungalows. The rooms are basic but fitted with all
the essentials - a bed, table, mosquito net, and a
hurricane lamp.
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Rah Island, Vanuatu
We arrived on the Monday and preparations were
already underway for the St Andrews Day Festival on
the Thursday. The beach was being raked, costumes
were being woven and fish were getting caught. They
may not be fussed with knowing the time, but Ni-Vans
certainly are efficient and resourceful.
The whole village and all its generations get together
and use a traditional and unique method of catching
large numbers of fish. A 1.2 kilometre long fishing line
is made out of palm leaves tied around very long vine.
Men, women and small children (known locally as
pikininis) drag the fence to the edge of the reef and
bring it back to shore forming a “U shape.”
The vine rope, which the palm leaves are tied to, is
poisonous to the fish, which are trapped inside on
display in the shallow water of the reef. The locals seize
them with spears, bows and arrows. The process
seemed quite laborious to me, but the sense of
community was astonishing. Following this spectacle I
sat at the shore and gutted our fresh catch with the
women of the village.
The St Andrews Day festival kicked off with a church
ceremony attended by as many as could fit on the seats
inside. The overspill of churchgoers leaned in through
the windows to listen to the sermons. The service was
spoken in pigeon English and the readings were
bridged with gospel singing.
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Rah Island, Vanuatu
The harmonies made the hairs on the back of my neck
stand up with their power – they sound awesome! There is
absolutely no shortage of food, as after the ceremony we
sat and ate fish until our stomachs hurt. While the
dancers got ready to entertain, the villagers from Mota
Lava and Rah gathered around to watch all generations
dance away the afternoon.
The dances ended with the famous ‘Snake Dance’ where
the men cover themselves in charcoal and ochre and
mimic the sea snake of the water. Young and old sat
watching, equally amused as each other by the
festivities. I looked on, celebrating this breathtaking day.
For information on other festivals on Rah Island
(including a new round island canoe race in October),
Mota Lava and other hidden parts of Vanuatu see www.
vanuatucustomtravel.com or email
info@vanuatucustomtravel.com
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Canoe Paddlers & Spectators
WANTED!
NEW Round Rah Island Outrigger Canoe Race
October 18 2007 Vanuatu
Beautiful Coral Snorkeling
Traditional Dancing & Music
Melanesian Festival, Activities & Lifestyle
Reef & Ocean Fishing
Race authentic outrigger canoes with local tribal villagers
Relax and enjoy paradise
A rare opportunity and FUN challenge
For Information & Reservations
Contact
osted by small local village communities
YOUR CHOICE TRAVEL
(07) 3257 2027
lyn@yourchoicetravel.net
www.vanuatucustomtravel.com
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UQCanoe Club
a kayaking community for
beginner and experienced paddlers
(people outside of UQ are welcome too!)
flat water
training
white water
sea
kayaking
canoe polo
http://www.uqcanoeclub.net

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