change brake discs and pads (3200/4200/Spyder/GranSport)

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HOW TO - change brake discs and pads (3200/4200/Spyder/GranSport)
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Maserati
GranSport
3200, 4200, Spyder & GranSport
4.2 CambioCorsa
49,000 miles
£22,000
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Thread: HOW TO - change brake discs and pads (3200/4200/Spyder/GranSport)
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#1
04-06-2015, 17:41 PM
MAF260
SportsMaserati.com Moderator
Having changed 2 complete sets of discs and pads on my cars in
the last week, I feel that I can speak on this subject as something
of an expert!
I will detail below how I changed the discs and pads, but will take
no responsibility for anyone who uses this as a guide.
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
Feb 2010
Hertfordshire
4358
Tools required:
Trolley jack/lift
Axle stands
Socket set
Wheel wrench/torque wrench
Wheel chocks
19mm offset spanner
Flat-bladed screwdriver
Pliers
08/06/2015 22:26
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To remove the wheels I have a separate 22mm socket that I
wrapped in insulating tape to make sure the wheels can't get
scratched or damaged during removal:
FRONT DISC AND PAD CHANGE
I chose to change both front discs at the same time, but they can
also be done individually if preferred. Chock the rear wheels and
then loosen the front wheel bolts with a 22mm socket.
08/06/2015 22:26
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Find the front jacking point(s) on the car. These are identifiable as
square plates with a round hole in the middle. Mine have a little
surface corrosion, so they're on the list to clean up and protect.
Jack the car up on these points ONLY
The nearside jacking point area for reference:
08/06/2015 22:26
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Once raised to a sufficient height to remove the wheels, support
the car on axle stands. I use the following location:
Remove the wheel and store safely, making sure it won't fall over
on it's face. You then have full access to the discs and pads:
08/06/2015 22:26
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Take note of the location of the brake pad warning sensor on the
front nearside. There is a 2-pin plug situated on the upper
wishbone:
The cable runs from the plug to the inside brake pad:
08/06/2015 22:26
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To remove the brake pads you will need to remove the 2 pins and
spring that hold the pads in place. Use a suitable tool to drive the
pins out - I use an old screwdriver shaft. Remove the top pin first
and make sure that the spring doesn't fly out and hit
something/you
With the top pin removed the spring no longer has any tension.
Lever the spring downwards and remove. Drive the bottom pin out
next.
08/06/2015 22:26
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Pins and spring removed:
Now remove the old brake pads. They might be tightly held in the
caliper, so use some pliers to pull them out. Note the brake pad
wear sensor is still fitted to the brake pad.
08/06/2015 22:26
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My old pads were not too badly worn as they were fitted late last
year. I have fitted brand new pads regardless and will keep these
as emergency spares.
A close up of the other end of the wear sensor. It simply slots into
place in the middle of the brake pad. Mine hadn't worn at all, so
was cleaned and reused. £11 plus delivery charge saved!
08/06/2015 22:26
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If you're simply changing pads then jump down to where I show
them being refitted.
If you're changing the discs then read on...
The calipers need removal next. You will need a 19mm socket for
the two bolts that hold the caliper to the hub at the rear:
With the bolts removed you will need to support the caliper. I use
an axle stand:
08/06/2015 22:26
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Disc removal time. There are 2 13mm bolts holding the disc to the
hub. Undo these and the disc should slide off the hub with a little
help
My old discs were in a bad state; holes filled with crud (despite
periodic cleaning) and cracked around the holes. The new discs are
built to a specification that should reduce this significantly.
08/06/2015 22:26
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You have now removed everything, but before refitting I strongly
recommend you clean everything up thoroughly.
I clean the hub with degreaser, a wire brush and then a stanley
knife blade to ensure the face of the hub is completely clean and
flat. Even the slightest dirt left on the hub can make the disc
vibrate and compromise braking efficiency and ride:
Attachment 29227
08/06/2015 22:26
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Next, spend some time cleaning the brake caliper thoroughly,
especially the stainless steel guides that the pads slide on. My
calipers had a huge build up of dirt, so I spent a lot of time
cleaning off as much as I could. What I've realised is that I now
want to completely overhaul the calipers with new seals, pistons
and bleed nipples as well as a fresh coat of paint (in the best
colour!).
Fit the new disc to the clean hub and secure with the 2 13mm
bolts. I cleaned the bolts with a wire brush and applied a little
copper grease to the threads to make removal easier next time:
Then refit the cleaned caliper, securing it with the 2 19mm bolts.
Again, these got a good clean. It's advised to use Loctite or a
similar threadlock on these bolts when refitting. Do not put copper
grease on these bolts.
08/06/2015 22:26
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Time to fit the new brake pads. Put a thin smear of copper grease
on the rear of the pads; this will stop them from squealing. Also
put some of the grease on the top and bottom edges of the pads
where they will slide in the caliper. You may find that your pads
are a tight fit - firstly check that the caliper is completely free of
any debris; if so, file the top and bottom edges of the pads (the
metal backing) until they drop into the caliper freely. Refit the
wear sensor to the inside pad as shown.
Take a little time to clean up the retaining spring and pins. A wire
brush should do the trick
08/06/2015 22:26
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Slide the bottom pin in first through the rear of the caliper,
through the holes in both pads and into the locating hole in the
caliper. Insert the spring and tension it with your fingers whilst
sliding the top pin into place. Tap the pins from behind to ensure
they're fitted securely.
Admire your work
08/06/2015 22:26
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Before refitting the wheel(s) give them a good clean. I washed,
clayed, and de-tarred my wheels before rinsing and drying. A
couple of coats of wheel sealant (I use poorboys), followed by a
couple of coats of wax will keep a lot of muck off and resist brake
dust. Finally, some tyre cleaner was used before refitting the
wheel to the hub. I then polished my stainless steel wheel bolts
with Autosol before fitting them. Tighten by hand, making sure the
wheel is fully located to the hub.
08/06/2015 22:26
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Lastly, jack the car up using the jacking point, remove the axle
stand and lower to the ground. Torque the wheel bolts up to the
correct settings and check these again after 50 miles or so of use.
I'll write up the rears a little later.
Maserati GranSport, Giallo Granturismo, full Larini exhaust, decat manifolds
- toy
Maserati GranSport, Nero Carbonio - FOR SALE http://www.sportsmaserati.com/showthread.php/17707-2005-GranSportfor-sale?p=404719#post404719
Alfa Romeo 159 ti 2.4, Alfa red - mile muncher
Audi V6 cabriolet - sunny day smoker
BMW 218d SE active tourer - hers
Maserati Alfieri on order - eta 2017
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#2
04-06-2015, 20:18 PM
MAF260
SportsMaserati.com Moderator
Rear discs and pads:
Similar to above - chock front wheels, slacken wheel bolts, jack car
using rear jacking point and locate secure placement for axle
stands.
Rear jacking point:
Join Date:
Location:
Posts:
Feb 2010
Hertfordshire
4358
08/06/2015 22:26
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To remove the rear pads you need to squeeze the retaining spring
with pliers and lever downwards. It's possible the lower part of this
spring will be stiff, so apply some WD40 beforehand to help
With the retaining spring out of the way you can remove the rear
pads with pliers.
08/06/2015 22:26
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Access to the 2 19mm bolts that secure the rear calipers is tight.
You will need to use an offset spanner to undo both bolts
Remove the caliper and support it (I use an axle stand). Be careful
not to kink the brake flexi hose.
08/06/2015 22:26
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Undo and remove the 2 13mm bolts securing the disc to the hub.
It then gets a little tricky...
You will need to slacken the handbrake shoes to remove the disc.
Release the handbrake inside the car and ensure it's not in gear.
This will allow you to move the rear disc around until one of the
inspection holes is at the 6 o'clock position, with the other at 12
o'clock. The adjuster can be tricky to find, so use a good penlight
torch to help you see - the adjuster is just to the left of 6 o'clock,
so moe the disc gently until you're in that position. The photo
below shows what you are looking for with the disc removed:
Using a flat-bladed screwdriver adjust the handbrake shoes until
they are as loose as they can be. The disc may still put up a fight
depending on its condition; some help with a mallet from behind
may be required.
With the disc removed (mine were definitely in need of
replacement) you are left with the bare hub:
08/06/2015 22:26
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I'm not covering how to change the handbrake shoes as mine had
been replaced very recently and so didn't need changing. They're
not well protected from the elements, so even recently changed
shoes will be a bit dirty/rusty. Mine were also slightly glazed, so I
gently filed the surfaces until fresh lining material was showing
Again, spend plenty of time cleaning everything up - the caliper
will be dirty so clean it thoroughly, paying special attention to the
pad guides. The spring can be cleaned with a wire brush; the hub
can be degreased, wire brushed and a blade taken over the surface
to ensure it's spotless. The bolts can be wire brushed.
Fit the new disc, securing with the 2 13mm bolts; replace the
caliper using the 2 19mm bolts. Smear the rears and top and
bottom sides of the new pads with copper grease and slot into the
caliper. Squeeze the retaining spring with pliers and push to locate
it
08/06/2015 22:26
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Then make sure the inspection/adjuster holes are in the correct
position again to tighten the handbrake shoes. I tighten mine
completely and then slacken off a little until the disc/wheel can
move.
Clean, seal, wax the wheels as before; polish the wheel bolts if you
choose and refit the wheel.
Raise the car enough to remove the axle stands and lower it to the
ground. Torque the wheel bolts up to the correct setting and
remember to check them after around 50 miles.
Stand back and admire your work!
Maserati GranSport, Giallo Granturismo, full Larini exhaust, decat manifolds
- toy
Maserati GranSport, Nero Carbonio - FOR SALE http://www.sportsmaserati.com/showthread.php/17707-2005-GranSportfor-sale?p=404719#post404719
Alfa Romeo 159 ti 2.4, Alfa red - mile muncher
Audi V6 cabriolet - sunny day smoker
BMW 218d SE active tourer - hers
08/06/2015 22:26

change brake discs and pads (3200/4200/Spyder/GranSport)

Transcription

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