Farnworth Viking Painting Guide

Transcription

Hints and Tips Step by Step – Vikings
By Michael Farnworth
March 2010
Wargames Factory Viking figures, painted by Mick Farnworth
Item
Colour
Vallejo Model Colour
Helmet
Helmet
Silver
Bronze
Natural Steel 70.863 or GW Chainmail 61.56
GW Shining Gold 61.63
Chainmail
Armour edges
Silver
Brown
Mahogany Brown 70.846 or GW Bestial Brown 61.13
Clothing
Various (see notes)
Leather Belt
Shoes
Brown
Brown
Mahogany Brown 70.846, Flat Brown 70.984
Mahogany Brown 70.846, Flat Brown 70.984
Sword and Spear
Javelin Shaft
Spear Shaft
Silver
Sand
Brown
Vallejo Iraqi Sand 70.819 or GW Bleached Bone 61.17
Mahogany Brown 70.846 or GW Bestial Brown 61.13
Revell Viking Ship crewed by Wargames Factory Viking figures, painted by Mick Farnworth
Hints & Tips - Vikings
Copyright Mick Farnworth - farnworth@bluewin.ch
January 2010
1
Introduction
This guide will help you to quickly paint units of Vikings to look good on a war games table. Historical
notes, paint references and painting tips are included.
Historical Notes
Vikings were warriors originating from Scandinavia. The word Viking has many interpretations ranging
from voyager to explorer to pirate. Vikings travelled far and wide reaching Greenland and America in
the West and Russia and Byzantium in the East.
The Viking Age is regarded as starting with raids on Lindisfarne in 789 and ending with the Battle of
Stamford Bridge in 1066. Throughout the 9th and 10th Centuries Vikings raided England, Ireland, France
and Spain. Vikings settled in northern France where they became the Normans and also in Russia,
where they were known as Rus.
There were various Viking kingdoms in Norway, Sweden and Denmark. Beneath the kings, were Jarls
(Earls) and beneath them the Hersir. The Hersir were local military commanders whose function could
be a local governor. Their retainers and guards were referred to as the Hird. Hirdmen or Huscarls
provided the bulk of most armies on raids and international campaigns. On raids, they were often
accompanied by mercenaries and adventurers seeking loot. In times of crisis, national armies were
enlarged by calling up the Bondi. Bondi were land owning farmers. In an extreme crisis, slaves, known
as Thralls were also pressed into military service.
Among the Hirdmen were fanatics, who whipped themselves into a furious battle rage. They were
known as berserkers. Although we think of berserk as meaning fighting mad, the word actually derives
from bear-shirt. Similar troops from earlier times were the Ulfhednar who wore wolf skins. Both of
these troop types were seen in pagan armies. As Vikings converted to Christianity, the berserker beliefs
were outlawed.
In battle, Vikings adopted a defensive position known as Skjalborg (shield-wall). The shield wall formed
a defensive barrier of closely packed men with their shields interlocking. Shield walls were often
formed as a line on a ridge. Occasionally, circular shield walls were used. The shield wall was
supported with a reserve of fast moving troops and archers who would try to disrupt attacks. In attack,
a wedge formation called Svinfylka (swine-array) was often used.
Horns were used for signalling and flags denoted the position of the commanders. The most famous
flags depicted a Raven.
Wargames Factory offers the following sets
WGF-HG001
WGF-HG002
WGF-HG003
WGF-HG004
Viking Huscarls - 32 Armored Viking Warriors
Viking Bondi - 32 Unarmored Viking Warriors
Saxon Thegns – 32 Armored Saxon Warriors
Saxon Fyrd – 32 Unarmored Saxon Warriors
For Thralls and Berserkers, the following can be used in
combination with the Vikings parts.
WGF-MR007
Ancient German Warband – 30 Unarmored
German Warriors
January 2010
2
Uniform Notes
Spears were probably the main weapon in the shield wall. Once the attack started, axes and swords
were used. Vikings are famous for double handed axes with a bearded shape. Many of the Hirdmen
would have had chainmail shirts, good swords and iron helmets. Shields were round until the 11th
century. Better shields had a leather face and an iron boss. Shields were often edged with hide.
Poorer troops would have had plain wooden shields, spears and often a sax single edged short sword.
Bows were popular. Slings are also recorded.
Vikings had blonde, brown or red hair. Wealthier warriors often wore very bright colours. Red, leaf
green and blue were favourites Burgundy, brown, black, white and grey are also recorded. Striped
trousers are also known. Poorer warriors would have been dressed in earth tones – cream, brown, mossy
green and grey.
It is often easier to differentiate between spears and javelins if the spears are dark and javelins are
light coloured. This simulates that javelins would be new freshly cut wood, whereas spears were kept
for a long time and often stained.
Hirdmen or Huscarls (Wargames Factory)
Bondi (Wargames Factory)
Berserkers and Ulfhednarn (Crusader figures)
January 2010
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Painting Tips
Bases
It is worth deciding on the rules that you are going to use before you start to base and paint the figures.
Mass battle games often specify multiple bases to represent regiments.
For Fields of Glory, in 28mm scale you should mount four figures on a 60mm x 20mm base although it is
acceptable to base 3 figures on a 60mm x 20mm base.
For Warhammer Ancients Battles, Vikings go on 20mm x 20mm squares or on 25mm x 25mm squares.
For skirmish games, most rules suggest individual bases. Some rules suggest 25mm diameter bases and
some suggest 20mm diameter bases.
Plastic bases (e.g. Slottabases), wooden bases, washers or coins are all suitable. 20mm steel washers
can be used with magnetic bases so that the figures can be adapted to many different sets of rules.
Transfers
Transfers provide a quick and easy way to add complex details to models. Transfers allow detailed
heraldic designs and insignia to be made easily. There are three principle types- waterslide transfers,
stickers and rub on transfers. Waterslide transfers are the type provided in plastic kits of aircraft and
tanks.
Little Big Man Studios- LBMS make transfers as wonderful full colour paintings miniaturised to stick on
shields and flags. These require care to apply correctly, so read the instructions. LBMS transfers must
be applied to a flat white surface. These figures used LBMS transfers.
Waterslide Transfers - These are the same as the items that you find in model aircraft kits. They are
applied to a painted shield. There are several manufacturers and are usually simple one colour designs.
VVV manufacture shield transfers to fit WF Vikings. Veni Vidi Vici DD3 fits the WF Viking shields but
DD4 is too small.
The Revell Viking Ship is a very good match for WF Vikings. It
comes with 64 shield transfers. The shields are about 1mm
larger diameter than the WF ones so they match well. The
shield transfers fit to the WF shields (but you must cut them
out round the design and also cut a hole for the boss). A pliers
type paper punch with revolving punch sizes works well.
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Step by Step
There are many ways to paint 28mm figures. Many people paint the clothing with a dark shade then the
main colour and then a highlight colour. For wargaming, where you want to get reasonably good results
quickly, it is easier to paint only the main colours and then add shade with a wash of dark transparent
stain.
Here is a basic assembly and painting sequence for typical Vikings. This method is designed for painting
about 20 figures at a time. The painting sequence is designed so that minor mistakes can be corrected
at the highlight stage. There is no need to correct minor mistakes as you go along.
It is a good idea to do a practice run on 10 figures first, using one of each type of sprue.
1. Remove the parts from the sprue using side cutters. I use Tamiya
Sharp Pointed Side Cutter for Plastic 74034 but GW sprue cutters
are also good. Cut away the remaining sprue tab with a scalpel on a
cutting mat.
2. Clean up any obvious mould lines either with a scalpel or with a
needle file. Pay particular attention to the head, the neck, the spear
shaft and the arms as any remaining sprue tabs will show up later.
Sort out the parts into boxes of bodies, heads, right arms, shields
and weapons.
3. Before you start to assemble the figures decide on whether you want to paint the shields on the
figure or separately. If the shield is large and close to the body, painting the body is difficult.
TIP - With Vikings, it is much easier to add the shields after you have painted the body. I glued on the
shields and this made the addition of the LBMS transfers very difficult. If you are going to use waterslide
transfers, it is OK to glue on the shields at the start.
4. Glue the figure to a base. If you are going to use individual bases, this will be the final base. If
you are going to use multiple bases, use a coin as temporary base so that you can hold the figure
for painting. For plastic figures on plastic bases, use polystyrene cement. For plastic figures on
metal bases use cyanacrylate adhesive (superglue). For temporary bases, use PVA glue, as it is
easy to remove later.
5. Assemble the figures using a polystyrene cement. For best results use a brush on liquid adhesive
such as Revel Contacta Liquid. Start with the torso. Next, add the right arm, then the head and
lastly, the weapons.
TIP – Some of the heads with hair at the back need the back of the neck
cutting away or filing to ensure that it fits neatly to the collar.
TIP – The two arms holding the axe look best when the angle between the
arms and the body is 90 degrees or less.
TIP – When you add the head, it should usually be pointing slightly towards the left arm so that
the figure looks logical when the shield is attached.
6. If you are using slotted bases, glue on some small squares of thin plastic card to cover the slot.
January 2010
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7. Optional - Using epoxy putty (e.g. Milliput), blend the figure base into the base.
8. Prime and undercoat the figure. This can be done with brush on enamel paint (e.g. Humbrol
Matt Black) or with a spray paint (e.g. GW Chaos Black Spray). For plastic figures spray
undercoat usually works well. Metal figures often need touching up afterwards as the spray
rarely reaches into the recesses. A black undercoat is usually easiest as it also acts as the
darkest shade.
TIP - It can be difficult to get the spray paint on the under surfaces of the figure. A simple method
is to lay the figures on their side on a paper and spray. When the paper has dried to matt black,
turn the figures over and spray again. Then stand the figures upright and spray from all sides.
9. I sorted out the figures in chainmail armour and put them to one side. Next, I spray painted all
of the rest in brown. This saves time later as you do the base, belts, hair, spears, scabbards,
shoes and straps in one go.
10. Paint the back of the shield brown. Try to leave the dimple unpainted. A good trick is to put a
small blob of Blu-tack in the dimple and then spray the shields.
11. Drybrush the helmet, spear point and sword in a steel colour. This is done first so that you do
not need to be careful about covering other areas.
TIP – use a cocktail stick to smear a small amount of paint onto a piece of cardboard. Brush the
paint out using a largish brush (I use a no 6 brush with fairly stiff bristles.) so that there is a very
small amount of paint on the brush. Then brush in several directions across the figure.
12. Paint the hands and face with a basic flesh colour (GW Dwarf Flesh is a good base coat for
flesh). Highlight with a quick damp brush of a lighter flesh tone (e.g. GW Elf Flesh).
January 2010
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13. With irregular armies such as Vikings, a variety of clothing colours looks best. To do this task
quickly - sort out the figures into groups before painting. Then paint the groups in a sequence –
e.g. group A gets blue trousers, group B gets grey trousers, group c gets green trousers and
group D gets red trousers. Next, sort the figures into new groups and do the same again for the
vests or tunics.
TIP – Decide on a colour scheme before you start. I chose Turquoise, Light Green, Blue,
Burgundy, Grey and Sand for Vikings. For the better armoured troops, I also added bright Red.
14. Shade the whole figure a dark wash applied with a brush (Army Painter Strong Tone or Vallejo
Transparent Smoke 70.939 or GW Devlan Mud Wash).
TIP - Army Painter Strong Tone worked very well. Be careful not to let it pool too much or they
look like they have had a mud bath. I prefer the result from a brush as the results from a dip is
rather dark. Dipping is also very messy. Note that Army Painter is an oil-based gloss varnish and
needs at least 24 hours to dry.
TIP - For a more sophisticated result, use different coloured washes in different areas. (GW
Devlan Mud on the bronze parts, GW Sepia Wash on the flesh and wood and GW Badab Black
Wash on the silver.
15. Using a fine brush and dilute paint, paint the eyes as a horizontal white dash.
16. Dot the eyes with black or dark blue. A cocktail stick can be used instead of a brush.
17. Transfers - Add the transfers according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
TIP - I like to finish the shields to a reasonable level before gluing them to the figure. Glue the
shield to the figure before you start the highlight process.
18. LBMS transfers - Spray the front of the shield with two coats of GW Skull White spray. Cut out
the transfer from the shield. Remove the clear backing paper and stick the transfer to the
shield, using the centre hole to line up with the boss. For best results, leave the shield for a
few days before you paint the boss and the rim.
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19. Waterslide Transfers – Waterslide transfers can be applied to the finished figure (i.e. at step
24). If you are going to add waterslide transfers, you will need to paint the shield in the final
colours, add highlights and then apply some varnish or a thin coat of watered down PVA glue.
Then cut the designs from the sheet and wet the transfer. Sometimes, you will also need to cut
a hole for the shield boss. Slide the transfer onto the shield and position it with a wet paint
brush.
20. Glue on the shield. To ensure a good bond, scrape the paint off the hand where it is glued to
the shield dimple. Superglue Gel works well.
21. Touch up any mistakes and add highlights as desired.
22. Varnish with a spray of gloss varnish to protect the figure. This is not necessary if you have
used Army Painter Strong Tone. After this has dried overspray with matt
varnish.
23. Flags - At one time, flags were cast onto the figures and very difficult to
paint. Now paper flags are very easy. There are several websites which
have flags available to download free of charge.
a. To make a paper flag, simply print out the chosen design onto
ordinary printer paper. A laser printer produces the best results
because the image is very sharp and the inks are water resistant.
Here, a North Star NSS102 long spear is used as a flagpole. Cut out
the flag carefully and fold it in the middle.
b. Paint a thin layer of PVA glue on the inside surface and join the
two halves taking care to line up the edges. Start from the edge
farthest away from the centre and close the flag towards the fold
line. Don’t forget to insert the flag pole before you finish closing
the loop. The flag can be bent and shaped to look like it is waving
in the wind before the glue dries. This flag pole has a bead to
support the flag. The flag is not glued to the pole and can be
rotated. For a final professional result, paint the edges and paint
over some parts of the flag so that the shading effects match your
style of figure painting.
January 2010
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24. Decorate the base. The easiest way is to paint on PVA glue and dip the base in sand. I glued
on the sand in two stages. The first time, I covered the upper surface of the base with PVA and
dipped it in sand. Once the first stage was dry, I added more glue and sand to make sure that
the step left by the plastic base was hidden. Once the glue is dry, shade the base with a brown
wash mixed with a little PVA glue. This also fixes the sand.
25. Highlight with a pale sand colour (GW Bleached Bone 61.17) lightly dry-brushed onto the sand.
26. Add static grass
January 2010
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Revell Viking Ship
There was mention of the Revell Viking Ship (1/50 scale, Kit Number 05403) on the WF forums. I bought
one and it is a very good match for WF Vikings. The kit is closely based on the Gostad ship and can be
built as a near replica in sail or rowing mode or also as a voyager.
It comes with 64 shields and also with 64 shield transfers. The shields are about 1mm larger diameter
than the WF ones so they match well. The shield transfers fit to the WF shields (but you must cut them
out round the design and preferably also cut a hole for the boss)
Here are a few notes from my experience.
1. The kit is intended for display so you need to cut off the keel to make a waterline model. I
clamped the hull sides with the deck in place. I marked the waterline using an overhead
projector pen on bases to make the tip approx 10mm from the bottom. For best results, I
suggest that you also secure the keel with lot of Blu-Tack so that it does not rock.
2. I cut the hull sides, one at a time, down to the waterline using a Dremel with a cutting wheel.
The first pass should be to cut a groove in the pen line. Be careful and cut slowly as the wheel
cutter can veer off if you go to fast.
3. Glue the hull sides and deck together using plenty of glue so that it is strong. Leave it 24 hours
so that the glue sets completely.
4. I sanded the base flat with a belt sander. Here again there are some problems as the plastic
tends to melt rather than coming off. Every so often stop and let it cool. Remove the build up
January 2010
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with a strong craft knife or box cutter. The ship is flexible so if
you press down too hard it will bow resulting in a curve rather
than a flat bottom. Finish the sanding by hand. Fill any gaps
with epoxy putty (e.g. Miliput)
5. After this, I replaced the hole in the bow floor by making a
plasticard deck with planking to match the other decking.
Reinforce the base on the mast. I used the nameplate from the kit and glued two right angles
of sprue to form a picture frame to form a socket for the mast. I then glued this under the
deck directly under the mast hole.
TIP – Before you go further, decide whether you want to build it as a warship with shields on the
side or as a general voyager / raider. Similarly decide whether you want it under sail, under oars
or moored. Also decide if you want the mast fixed or removable. For gaming a removable mast is
a good idea.
6. For the remainder of the assembly follow the kit instructions. If you want it as a trader,
remove the 64 pins on the outside of the hull. Rather than mount the oars, I glued them
together as piles that can be moved during gaming.
7. I used some WF Vikings to make crew. These were mostly mounted on 20mm washers with the
top covered in plasticard and made to look like planks. Scratch the plasticard to create a wood
grain effect.
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8. Seated crew figures were made by cutting down WF Viking Bondi.
A
B
C
TIP – The lines on figure A show the cutting points to produce the reclining oarsman figure B.
These cuts can be done with a good pair of sprue cutters or with a modelling saw. Figure C
shows a more complicated conversion to a seated figure. This requires filler (e.g. epoxy putty
such as Milliput) to form the buttocks and an additional cut at the knees.
9. The helmsman is a charioteer from the WF Celt set, with a Viking
head, mounted on a trapezium that fits into the stern decking.
10. Andrés Amián suggested on the WF forum that chariot drivers would
make good oarsmen and indeed they do. I gave them oars made
from 1.3mm diameter brass rod.
January 2010
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11. Casualties were made from WF figures snipped from their bases.
12. Additional archers made from Wargames Factory figures with arms from Perry War of the Roses
archers.
13. Spearmen made from Wargames Factory figures with arms from Perry War of the Roses billmen.
January 2010
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Appendix: Viking Berserkers
by Ruarigh Dale BA(Hons) MA MIfA
My guide to Crusader and Artizan Vikings went on-line 24th September 2009. As a result, there was a
debate on TMP about the origin of the word berserker. Ruarigh Dale, a PHD researcher at Nottingham
University provided this insight.
Berserkers and Ulfhednar
“Regarding the etymology of berserkr, academic opinion favours an etymology derived from a
reconstructed bera/ber/berr (meaning bear) from an older word that was supplanted by 'bjorn' before
the end of the Viking Age. The etymology from berr (naked) stems primarily from Snorri's description of
them in Ynglinga saga. This seems more like a folk etymology based on Snorri's understanding of the
language. The main reason for preferring a 'bear' meaning is the way in which Old Norse formed
compound nouns. Generally it forms them using two nouns (e.g. bear and shirt) rather than an adjective
and a noun (e.g. bare and shirt). The 'bear-shirt' meaning is also to be preferred because it parallels
ulfhedinn (wolfskin). The earliest reference I have found to an etymology with 'bear' dates from 1860.
There has been much speculation over the berserker rage, but little questioning of whether it actually
happened. It has been attributed to disease, alcohol, drugs, religion and adrenaline. Jesse Byock
postulated that Egil Skallagrimsson suffered from Paget's disease and suggested that it was a feature of
berserkers. Others have proposed the use of mushrooms and alcohol. The idea that berserkers used
mushrooms first surfaced in 1784, based on research into the trances of Siberian shamans, but Howard
Fabing's experiments in the mid- to late-fifties demonstrated that mushroom usage was almost certainly
not the cause of the berserker fit. The loss of motor control caused by alcohol is one of the main
reasons why alcohol is not thought to be the cause. Another reason is that strong alcohol was not
generally available to the Scandinavian people (ref Fernando Guerrero's PhD thesis), and finally, while
alcohol has some analgesic properties in the short term, it
can also enhance pain felt. Finally, alcohol is not actually mentioned as a cause of the berserker fit,
and, in one instance in Grettis saga, it is actually the cause of berserkers becoming tired rather than
going berserk.
The berserker fit was most likely caused by adrenaline, pure and simple. The howling and shield biting
were probably designed to stimulate this, as would performing the weapon dance before battle and
other martial displays. Think of it as a form of psychological warfare designed to intimidate the enemy
while encouraging your own troops, a bit like the All Blacks doing the haka. Later descriptions probably
confused the act of psyching themselves up with the fit itself, and so the legend was born.
The berserkers' role appears to have been limited, but an integral part of early Viking Age society. They
were members of the chieftain's bodyguard and would probably fight as his champion (in the sense of
someone that fights in the stead of someone else). They also appear to have been cultic warriors
associated with Odin and to have had a variety of roles related to that, such as initiating young nobles
into society.
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References to ulfhednar indicate that they may be a subset of berserkers, but this is by no means
certain. They are depicted in similar roles and there is more, earlier evidence for them than there is for
berserkers, although it is primarily iconographic. This evidence indicates that animal-skin clad warriors
were a feature of the broader Germanic culture, rather than just a Scandinavian phenomenon.
Berserkers and ulfhednar were rare warriors. They are usually mentioned individually or in groups of
twelve, leaving aside the stylistic elephantiasis of later legendary sagas where armies of thousands of
berserkers are featured. Where groups occur, they are more commonly part of a king's warband. They
would fight fiercely but it seems unlikely that they would be suicidal. They would spearhead the assault
and would stand where the fighting would be fiercest on the king's ship.
Given their probable relationship to Odin, berserkers and ulfhednar would not have been a feature of
Christian armies. This may have been the reason for later depictions of individual berserkers travelling
around and challenging men to duels for their farms and wives; once their traditional role and
livelihood was gone, they became outlaws and duellists to survive. During this time, berserkr became
synonymous with viking. It is interesting to note that by the 14th century and after, the term ‘berserkr’
came to be used with the simple meaning of ‘champion’. We find clerics signing themselves with the
epithet ‘berserkr’ in Diplomatarium Norvegicum, for example, or Jesus being described as ‘God’s
berserker’ in Barlaams saga ok Josaphats, clearly indicating that they were champions of God. Thus,
there is a clear development of the meaning and understanding of the term from the Viking Age through
to the late medieval period.
So, in short, berserkers during the pre-Christian Viking Age were bodyguards and champions; elite
professional warriors. They had a religious role as warriors of Odin and probably performed rituals and
ceremonies on behalf of their king. They would have fought as the king’s champions and stood beside
him in the battle line. As a group though, they would almost certainly not have been the frothing
loonies of modern popular perception.”
Ruarigh
Wargames Factory Ancient German figures, used as Viking Berserkers,
painted by Mick Farnworth
January 2010
15
Further Reading
Books
General Military
Colonel Tim Collins: Soldier – A Visual History of the Fighting Man (Dorling Kindersley 2007)
This giant coffee table book describes soldiers from Greek Hoplites up to Modern Western Infantry. 45
soldiers are described in lavish detail. The original 2007 version is 30x25 cm. There is a 2009 compact
version which is 25x22 cm. Vikings are described in 12 profusely illustrated pages.
The Vikings Recreated in Colour Photographs by Nurmann, Schulze and Verhülsdonk
1999. Europa Militaria Special No 6, Crowood Press.
This is one of my favorite books. It contains nearly 100 pages of colour photographs of re-enactors and
museum reconstructions.
Armies of the Dark Ages by Ian Heath
2nd Edition 1980, Wargames Research Group.
In the early 1980s, Phil Barker and Ian Heath of Wargames Research Group published a series of books
covering armies throughout history. These remain a valuable reference source today, so much so that
some of the books sell for ridiculous prices. Luckily, Armies of the Dark Ages Rome is still available
from www.wrg.me.uk.
Osprey books
Osprey Elite 3: The Vikings Ian Heath, Angus McBride
This book describes the history of the Vikings.
Osprey Men-at-Arms 85: Saxon, Viking and Norman Terence Wise Gerry Embleton.
An older book which covers the Dark Age armies of Western Europe..
Osprey Warrior 3: Viking Hersir 793–1066 AD Mark Harrison, Gerry Embleton.
This book describes the tactics and appearance of Viking warriors. It focuses on archaeological
evidence includes detailed drawings of helmets, swords, axes, spears and shields are not in the
compilation.
Osprey General Military: The Vikings Magnus Magnusson.
As far as I can tell, this contains the full texts of Elite 3 The Vikings, Warrior 3 Viking Hersir and New
Vanguard 47 Viking Longship. Most of the illustrations are also included but not the detailed drawings
of equipment from Warrior 3.
Wargames Factory Viking figures, painted by Mick Farnworth
January 2010
16

Farnworth Viking Painting Guide

Transcription

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