Swedish food is latest Scandinavian import to appeal to British tastes

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Swedish food is latest Scandinavian import to appeal to British tastes
Swedish food is latest Scandinavian import to appeal to British tastes - News - Food & Drink - The Independent
2012-10-30 16:45
Tuesday 30 October 2012
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Swedish food is latest Scandinavian import to
appeal to British tastes
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If meatballs and a gibberish-spouting puppet chef
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revolution then think again. Swedish chefs are
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Swedish food is the latest Scandinavian import to
appeal to British tastes, with food and drink sales in
the UK rising 30 per cent in the past five years.
New restaurants, food ranges, and cookbooks are
seeking to capitalise on the Scandi-mania that has
gripped the UK following the huge success of the
Nordic noir-fiction genre, epitomised by The Girl
With the Dragon Tattoo, and TV crime dramas
including The Killing, Wallander, and The Bridge
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The most ambitious Scandinavian restaurant so far
opens next month in London. MASH, a 300-seat
Danish steakhouse, will take over a Soho basement
once occupied by Marco Pierre White's Titanic
restaurant. Next week, a former London brewery
will be transformed into a Swedish red cottage to
showcase menus from three Swedish regions,
including Wallander's fictional home, Skane. And
the online grocer Ocado recently ramped up the
number of Swedish lines it sells, adding crispbreads,
jams, beers, and local cheeses to its internet shop.
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Trine Hahnemann, a Danish chef whose
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Scandinavian Christmas recipe book was published
Cookery
last month, said she is "considering" opening a
restaurant in the UK next year. "The interest is
really overwhelming," she added. The chef will head up a series of Nordic
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Jonas Aurell, whose deli-cum-wholesale business is supplying Ocado, said:
"Ikea paved the way for the food market. Plus, a study into the Nordic diet led
by Copenhagen University, which set out to prove that the Nordic diet was as
good as the Mediterranean diet in terms of health, gave us a lot of impetus to
push the food forward."
The global triumph of Copenhagen's Noma restaurant, which has won the feted
best restaurant in the world award for the past three years, has been widely
credited with helping to put Scandinavian cooking on the map. Its chef, Rene
Redzepi, opened a sell-out pop-up restaurant in Claridge's this summer. Daniel
Berlin, a Skane-based chef tipped to succeed Redzepi as the world's best, hopes
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Hahnemann said yesterday: "I think we have a lot in common because of the
climate, we have the same ingredients and the same season, so the New Nordic
ties in very well with the local British food movement, and all the attention there
is on British food now. Foraging and preserving is the growing thing in both our
countries."
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A Swedish "cook-it-yourself" concept, Aveqia, opened earlier this month, where
Michelin-starred chefs teach diners to prepare dishes such as "spice-flamed
reindeer". Peter Hencz, the school-cum-restaurant's director, said: "Many
colleagues back in Sweden are looking at the UK market, and, if we succeed,
they will follow us."
Aveqia joins a host of other Nordic restaurants across the UK, including the
Edinburgh-based delicatessen Peter's Yard, and KRO, a chain of Danish eateries
across Manchester and Cheshire. The next series of Masterchef - the BBC1
cooking competition, now being filmed - will feature Scandinavian cuisine, with
one contestant stocking up on ingredients from the online supplier Danish Food
Direct.
Signe Johansen, a Norwegian cook who released her second recipe book,
Scandilicious, earlier this year, said: "The Scandinavian zeitgeist seems to be
growing - whether it's fashion, design, crime fiction, TV or food - interest in the
region at the moment is quite astonishing to those of us who hail from Norway,
Sweden, Denmark, or Finland. It's a confluence of events, people are fascinated
by Scandinavian crime fiction with all its brutality, violence towards women,
social discord, racism and corruption -all of this is at odds with the image of
Scandinavia as a social democratic haven where the standard of living
consistently rates as the best in the world and everything seems pictureperfect."
Mr Hencz sought to defend Sweden's reputation for boring dishes such as
meatballs, pointing out: "When we think about the UK we think about fish and
chips. Every country has something they are associated with."
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1 comment
2012-10-30 16:45
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Discussion
David Jørgensen
•
8 days ago
Jonas is right, IKEA paved the way, but it is definitely not
representative of proper Swedish or Nordic food.
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