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FREE
GOLDSMITH
MEMBERSHIP
WORTH £400
WELCOME
CONTENTS
MALDIVES & SRI LANKA
2
NEW YORK & ST LUCIA
6
MEXICO & MIAMI
10
You’ll need someone who knows the importance of
personalised service, can throw in a trip-enhancing extra or
two, and reward your loyalty…
REAL-LIFE INSPIRATION
14
LUXE FOR LESS IN
SOUTH-EAST ASIA
16
Seems like a good moment to introduce ourselves.
SOUTH AFRICA’S
GARDEN ROUTE
20
ON THE TUSCANY TRAIL
(FLORENCE & ROME)
24
CALIFORNIA
(LA, BIG SUR,
SAN FRANCISCO &
NAPA VALLEY)
28
COSTA RICA
32
TRAVEL CLINIC
36
AMALFI COAST & CAPRI
38
GREEK ISLANDS
(SANTORINI, MYKONOS,
SPETSES)
42
HIP CITY MINIMOONS
46
FREE GOLDSMITH
MEMBERSHIP OFFER
48
You’ve already found your soulmate, but now you need a
perfect match to help you plan your dream honeymoon:
a travel company that understands all the ingredients for a
flawlessly romantic holiday, whatever your budget.
Amazing places to stay are at the heart of a happy honeymoon,
and at Mr & Mrs Smith we’ve been uncovering seductive
boutique hotels around the world for the past decade. Chic city
stays, luxe beachfront resorts and elegant country retreats –
our 950-strong hotel collection has something for every taste.
We know our way around, too. Book with Smith and you could
soon be savouring jaw-dropping sunsets from a Greek island,
road-tripping around Central America, or admiring the Pacific
from Big Sur, with a glass of fine Californian wine in hand.
Conjuring irresistible bespoke itineraries is what we do best.
We’ll even upgrade you to GoldSmith membership when you
book your honeymoon with us.
Lots of love,
TALK TO OUR HONEYMOON CONCIERGES
THE LITTLE WHITE BOOK
OF HONEYMOONS
Ring our specialist honeymoons team on 0845 034 0700 (dial +44 20 8987 4312 from
outside the UK) or email honeymoons@smithhotels.com to start planning your trip of
a lifetime. You will have a dedicated expert to help book the perfect bespoke trip for you.
The Smith Travel Team is available seven days a week, 24 hours a day.
LITTLE WHITE BOOK OF HONEYMOONS
PERFECT PAIRING
SRI LANKA & MALDIVES
From Colombo to Kandy, a cultural tour of Sri Lanka is a fantastic foil for
lounging in luxury on an Indian Ocean atoll, says Laura House
Enjoy an action-packed hit of adventure, then flop in
a no-luxury-spared desert-island paradise
A spell in Sri Lanka is a senses-stimulating
cultural lesson amid wildlife-rich jungle and
temple-enhanced countryside. Pause in
a 200-year-old aristo palazzo and visit
palaces, botanical gardens and Buddhist
temples, then get a taste of rural life on a
distinguished lakeside tea plantation.
Next stop: the Indian Ocean via a short
flight to Malé. Spread over 26 silk-sanded
coral atolls, the Maldives is the archetypal
honeymoon destination; no shortage of
palm-tree-fringed hideaways here. Savour
luxurious adults-only seclusion above
water, and kaleidoscopic marine life below.
GETTING THERE
WHEN TO GO
From London to Colombo is an 11-hour
overnight flight. From there, it’s a four-hour
drive to Kandy, the capital of Sri Lanka’s hill
country, and a further two hours to get to tea
terrain through soul-stirring cloud-forest
scenery. Fly to Malé in an hour and a half.
Then a 40-minute speedboat ride can take
you to Cocoa Island.
November to May. Sri Lanka sizzles year
round, so go expecting heat and humidity;
May to July and October to December are
monsoon months. January to April is driest.
There’s never a bad time to go to the
Maldives; even in rainy season, May to
November, you’d be unlucky to get more
than a few days’ rain on the trot.
Start planning your perfect honeymoon with one of our experts: ring 0845 034 0700
4
S R I
L A N K A
&
M A L D I V E S
THE WALLAWWA
H O T E L S
S R I
L A N K A
&
CEYLON TEA TRAILS
It’s just a short jaunt to the airport,
so the Wallawwa boutique hotel
near Colombo is the ideal
post-flight crash pad in which to
begin your Asian adventure.
Basking in its pindrop-peaceful
rural setting and lovingly tended
tropical gardens, the Wallawwa is a
sensitive restoration of a
STYLE Peaceful plantation
SETTING Sumptuous haute
hill-station
ROOMS WE LOVE If you’re after
seclusion, opt for Garden Suite 6
as it’s the furthest from the action.
But if you’re swooping in late and
leaving early, a Wallawwa Bedroom
will suffice.
Arriving at Hatton, you’d think you’d
stepped into a Rudyard Kipling
novel. The station, populated with
goats and chickens, is under the
command of a station manager
resplendent in full uniform. Decked
out with elegant antiques and
traditional dark wood furniture, our
KANDY, SRI LANKA
veranda walls. Faye Toogood
ROOMS WE LOVE Deluxe room
the Pioneer, though snug, is
nearest the infinity pool and has
its own veranda and garden. You
may need high-jump skills to
access the four-poster in Ultra
room Indian Admiral, but you can
recover afterwards in the
claw-foot bath-with-a-view.
mrandmrssmith.com/honeymoons
*Based on departures in April 2014
Proper-job Dutch antiques,
ticking curtains and piles of silk
bolsters and cushions (the sort
that Mr Smith loves to fling off
the bed before slumber) contrast
with polished concrete floors and
an octagonal stone bath
5
STYLE Faraway island fantasy
SETTING The bluest lagoon
bedecked with candles at the
foot of the four-poster. Walking
out onto the colonial-style
terrace is like stepping into a
Rousseau painting: a jungle filled
with brightly coloured birds
chortling foreign ringtones and
naughty monkeys plucking
mangosteens from the trees.
Reflecting this oasis are five
oversized mirrors that flank the
HILL COUNTRY, SRI LANKA
200-year-old manor house,
where graceful original features
have been spiced up with
luxuriant interiors and a
lush-as-you-like spa.
COCOA ISLAND BY COMO
STYLE Chic mini-palazzo
SETTING Paradisical palms
and paddies
H O T E L S
COLOMBO, SRI LANKA
STYLE Lavish colonial pile
SETTING Nestled in Negombo
THE KANDY HOUSE
M A L D I V E S
Resembling a collection of Keralan
boathouses, the individual
over-water villas have soothing
white-on-white interiors and teak
flooring. The scuba diving here is
terrific, and after an afternoon of
A 12-night trip costs from
Luxury Room was the last word in
romance, with gorgeous vistas of
the lake from both bedroom and
bathroom. Steven Blick
ROOMS WE LOVE Master Suites,
Garden Suites and Luxury Rooms
are allocated according to
availability, so you can’t guarantee
your first choice, but the charm of
the place means everyone will
claim ‘their’ bungalow is best.
MALDIVES
reef watching you can soothe away
any aches in the award-winning
Como Shambhala spa.
ROOMS WE LOVE All rooms are
individual at-sea dwellings off a
wooden pier, with sun-decks,
walk-in showers and roll-top
bathtubs. We adore split-level
Dhoni Loft Suites, and ultra-private
one-bedroom Villas. Villa 1001 or
1003 have the best straight-tosnorkelling sea access. Of the
Dhoni Loft Suites, which face the
house reef, pick higher numbers
(from 830) for maximum privacy.
£3,299 per person on a b&b basis*
Including return international flights with BA, road and speedboat transfers, 1 night at the Wallawwa,
2 nights each at Kandy House and (full board) at Ceylon Tea Trails and 7 nights at Cocoa Island
6
PERFECT PAIRING
NEW YORK & CARIBBEAN
Combine an electrifying fling with the city that never sleeps with a sultry
and soothing affair on laid-back St Lucia, says Juliet Kinsman
Wake up in beautiful, breathless New York and kick off
sandals in St Lucia by sundowner time
You’ll need a few days to take the pulse of
the metropolis’ cinematic avenues and
hipster neighbourhoods. Start with brunch
– a Manhattanite institution – then saunter
through the improbable leafy sprawl of
Central Park. From hideaway galleries to
stellar sips, ever-evolving New York always
has something new to show off.
Swap skyscrapers for lush pitons soaring
towards the deep-blue sky. St Lucia’s
sherbert-soft beaches and beryl waters
are hard to resist, but more active
thrill-seekers heading inland will be
rewarded with untamed rainforest,
otherworldly sulphur springs and
spectacular viewing points.
GETTING THERE
WHEN TO GO
After an eight-hour flight to NYC, it’s an
hour’s taxi ride into Manhattan. A seven-hour
flight will transfer you from the big smoke to
this volcanic island in the Caribbean Sea
(London direct to St Lucia would take 12 and
a half hours).
March to June will give you the best of both
destinations. St Lucia’s balmiest season
falls between mid-December and April, but
even in May and June, rain tends to be
intermittent. New York in spring is ideal for
shopping and sightseeing with fewer crowds
and without the extreme heat or cold of
high summer or winter.
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N E W
Y O R K
&
S T
L U C I A
H O T E L S
GRAMERCY PARK
N E W
Y O R K
&
S T
L U C I A
H O T E L S
NYC
STYLE A bohemian rhapsody
SETTING East Side storeys
A beguiling muddle of styles, this
East Side hotel is as edgy, cool and
unclassifiable as New York City
itself. Exposed brickwork stands
alongside bare wood, lush scarlet
drapes tickle stark black-leather
furniture, and Louis XV chairs
seem right at home. When not out
exploring, you can take in the
hotel’s dazzling views of Gramercy
Park and quaff cocktails by
candlelight, overlooked by Warhols
and Basquiats.
ROOMS WE LOVE The Lexington
Premier King has a seating area,
filled with quirky furniture, and
superb views of Lexington Avenue.
If you feel like splurging, go for the
Penthouse – it comes with its own
kitchen, dining room and library.
JADE MOUNTAIN
BOUCAN BY HOTEL CHOCOLAT
What could be better than
a palm-fringed paradise on a
tropical island? How about
chocolate at every turn. Boucan is
set in a cacao plantation, with
tours, classes and, of course,
cacao desserts in abundance.
Boucan also has one of the most
perfect perches in St Lucia. The
black infinity pool seems to jut
9
STYLE Supervillain’s island lair
SETTING Balmy bayside heights
ST LUCIA
straight out to Petit Piton, and
jungle birds create a soundtrack
for morning walks or sunset
lounges on the private veranda.
*Based on departures in July-Sep 2014
STYLE Cocoa a-go-go
SETTING It’s a jungle out there
ST LUCIA
ROOMS WE LOVE Two types:
Lodges and Luxe Lodges – which
are twice as large and have a
private veranda and better
scenery. Of the Luxe Lodges,
Room 7 has the best views and
extra privacy. Lodges 1 to 4 have
east-west exposure for sunsets.
Jade Mountain in St Lucia isn’t only
resplendent in all the Caribbean
honeymoon clichés – sun, sea,
snorkelling, secluded sands –
this exclusive hilltop hotel is an
architectural triumph. It’s a luxury
retreat that has a wonderfully
cavalier attitude to windows and
A 12-night break costs from
walls: suites are entirely open to
the elements at least on one side,
and most boast a private
Piton-view infinity pool to watch
sunset from. Add to the agenda
rum-tasting, rainforest hikes, a
resident chocolatier, in-room spa
treatments and a soft volcanicsand beach below, and be assured
that dull moments are not allowed.
Juliet Kinsman
ROOMS WE LOVE Any spacious
suite in this hotel is enough to bowl
you over – each is reached by a
private stone walkway and has its
fourth wall missing, so you can’t
escape that flabbergasting view of
St Lucia’s Piton peaks. The five
Jacuzzi-bearing Sky Suites are the
height of luxury, but splash out on
a Sun (the largest), Star or Moon
Sanctuary for private infinity pools.
Including international flights with BA and Jet Blue, private road transfers in St Lucia, 4 nights (room only) at
Gramercy Park, 3 nights at Boucan by Hotel Chocolat and 5 nights at Jade Mountain
10
PERFECT PAIRING
MIAMI & THE RIVIERA MAYA
There is more to these Latin-flavoured escapes than beach alone.
Marry coastline and culture either side of the border, says Kate Thorman
Indulge in fine dining and dance-till-dawn clubs
Stateside before exploring Mexico’s Caribbean coast
Miami’s glitzy South Beach (SoBe) takes its
hedonism and extravagance very seriously.
Beyond the bling and bikinis, historic
art-deco buildings, stylish restaurants,
decadent lounge bars and contemporary
arts scene, are irresistible Miami virtues
and vices in equal measure. Continue the
Latin-flavoured adventure along Mexico’s
Riviera Maya, an idyllic stretch of Caribbean
S O H O
B E A C H
M I A M I
coast that demands hand-in-hand strolls
along white-sand beaches. There is plenty
to lure you off your sunloungers, too.
Majestic Mayan ruins populate the
coastline, and some of the world’s finest
dive sites line these tropical shores; plus,
there is a whole network of underground
cenotes (limestone sinkholes), which you
can dive, swim and snorkel in.
GETTING THERE
WHEN TO GO
A nine-hour flight will drop you right into
Miami, and Miami Beach is just a 20-minute
cab ride (or drive, if you want the flexibility)
away. From there, Cancún International
Airport is just under a two-hour jaunt. Playa
del Carmen and environs, home of Viceroy
Riviera Maya, are a 45-minute drive south
along the coast; the more secluded Esencia
is a bit further, clocking in at about an hour.
Miami enjoys year-round sunshine, so
there’s no bad time to go unless you can’t
take the heat: summer temperatures usually
hover around 30º C and it can feel very
humid. The climate on the Riviera Maya is
similarly lovely. Be aware that June to
November is hurricane season – at its peak
from August to October.
H O U S E
12
M I A M I
&
R I V I E R A
M A Y A
H O T E L S
M I A M I
&
R I V I E R A
M A Y A
TIDES SOUTH BEACH
MIAMI BEACH
STYLE Classic SoBe sophistication
SETTING Opulent Ocean Drive
STYLE SoBe goes Soho
SETTING Mellow Mid-Beach
On entering, there’s that
reassuring feeling of familiarity
and comfort you experience
when you see a future home
for the first time and know
instantly it’s the one. Here, art
deco meets old-world Havana
with colourful floor tiles,
vintage dusky patterned
fabrics, a happy miscellany of
ornaments and interesting
books, and a huge mirrored
Thirties’ bar so glamorous and
enticingly well-stocked, it
would challenge the
staunchest Mormon.
Louisa St Pierre
ROOMS WE LOVE We love
Room 35 for its bath tub
overlooking the gardens and
the sea. The huge bed is big
enough for three (should you
be so inclined), and the
sitting area, with its gorgeous
tile-work and beach views,
provides further eye candy.
DOUBLES FROM £271*
13
ESENCIA
Instead of playing to the tourists
with gaudy signage and kitsch
tropical decor, this pastel-toned
Thirties’ damsel is coyly beautiful.
Inside, a chic modern lobby has
original travertine floors, porthole
windows and gilded art. Easygoing,
friendly staff manifest from
nowhere to spirit our bags away
RIVIERA MAYA
STYLE Less-is-more luxe
SETTING Tropical Caribbean
seaside
ocean views mesmerising.
The whims of a wealthy European
royal created Esencia, set on a
secluded stretch of Mayan Riviera
beach. What was built as a
triple-level casa for a duchess and
her guests is now a blissful regal
retreat. Simple sophistication
spoils travellers in the luxurious
whitewashed Casa Grande, where
the spa is sublime, the tequila
cocktails expertly mixed and the
ROOMS WE LOVE Watch the sun
rise and set from the terrace or the
comfort of your giant bed in the
Deluxe Ocean View suites with
panoramic ocean views. Or, make
like royalty in the Casa Grande’s
Rosa suite. It was the master
bedroom when the Duchess of
Ferrari owned the property, so the
entire hacienda can be viewed
from its enormous terrace.
DOUBLES FROM £215*
£2,743 per person on a room-only basis**
Including international flights with BA and American Airlines,
transfers in Mexico, 4 nights at Soho Beach House, and 6 nights
at Esencia
* Smith guarantees the best rates available at the time of booking **Based on departures in June 2014
SOHO BEACH
HOUSE MIAMI BEACH
VICEROY RIVIERA MAYA
STYLE Thoroughly modern Mayan
SETTING Calming coastal village
Barefoot luxury awaits at this
adults-only retreat on seven acres
of beach with Caribbean views and
a lush jungle backdrop. Slip
beneath a sombrero for a siesta
H O T E L S
and ferry us to a room overlooking
a particularly good-looking stretch
of coast. Erin Hartigan
ROOMS WE LOVE Our top pick of
the water-view rooms is 601, a
corner suite that has north- and
east-facing windows overlooking
palm trees and twinkling ocean.
Fancy an entire floor? The ninth
consists of two suites that can be
booked as a whole.
RIVIERA MAYA
beside the lagoon pool, book a spa
session on the private pier, or
indulge in the local cuisine with
a tequila-and-ceviche tasting.
ROOMS WE LOVE Tucked away
among the tropical palms of the
surrounding jungle, the thatched
palapa-roofed Royal Villas are
perfectly private. Rock the day
away in the hammock on your
secluded sunbathing deck or take
a dip in your very own plunge pool
– swimsuits optional. Oh, and don’t
lift a finger – that’s what your
mayordomo (or butler) is there for.
£2,700 per person**
Including international flights with Virgin Atlantic and American Airways, private transfers in Miami and
Mexico, 4 nights at Tides South Beach, room only, and 6 nights at Viceroy Riviera Maya, b&b
14
R E A L - L I F E
REAL-LIFE
S M I T H
E X P E R I E N C E S
SMITH EXPERIENCES
THE RIVERSIDE WEDDING
Since our handpicked collection is heavensent for romance, little wonder
many couples celebrate every milestone at a Smith hotel. Here,
GoldSmith member Beth Ikponmwosa shares her special memories
along the way from Miss Smith to Mrs Smith
We knew the Bingham in Richmond was right the
moment we walked into the bar and looked through
its floor-to-ceiling windows over manicured gardens,
weeping willows and the Thames. The day lived up
to all our expectations: the riverside terrace was
ideal for a champagne reception, the food was
incredible – every aspect ran smoothly thanks to the
hotel’s amazing wedding team.
THE MALLORCA
MINIMOON
THE THAI TRIP OF
A LIFETIME
THE PROPOSAL
Set on an Amalfi Coast clifftop overlooking a pretty fishing harbour
and the Bay of Naples, La Minervetta was the perfect place for a
proposal (see page 41). We’d wandered back to the hotel after seven
courses of local cuisine at Il Buco, then as we sipped prosecco on
the hotel’s terrace, gazing at the star-lit view of Vesuvius, listening to
the sea lapping below, Zak asked me to marry him.
15
I wanted somewhere special to get
ready and the deluxe suite at the
Haymarket Hotel was not only
beautifully decorated in pretty
pinks and greens, but also large
enough to allow me, family and five
bridesmaids to get ready for the
wedding in style. And the
enormous and comfortable bed
ensured a good night’s sleep the
night before the big day.
Photographs: Guy Collier
THE WEST END
WARM-UP
Having been to Thailand, we knew
to expect perfect beaches and
a tropical climate, but Trisara’s
breathtaking hillside location and
the kindness and warmth of the
locals was overwhelming. Whether
in our room, the decked restaurant
or the lengthy saltwater pool, we
always overlooked beautiful blue
sea. We’d intended to try as many
local restaurants as possible, but
after tasting Trisara’s goong
sarong (prawns in a blanket), it was
hard to stray. We even took a
beachside cookery class in the
hope we could take some tastes
home. We’d love to return,
hopefully with a little one in tow.
After a hectic few months
of planning the big day, we aimed
to do nothing but soak up some
sunshine, and Can Simoneta on
the island’s rugged but stunning
east coast was ideal. While we
were away, we received our
wedding photographs by email,
and with glasses of bubbly in hand,
and the Balearic Sea beyond, we
looked through them.
LET SMITH TAILOR YOUR DREAM TRIP
Beth and Zak booked their
honeymoon through our expert
GoldSmith team (to receive this
service for free, turn to page
48). ‘It was so wonderful being
able to deal with the same
person all the way through the
booking,’ says Beth. ‘They really
got to know me, and my plans
for the big day and beyond. After
a while I didn’t even need to
explain what kind of hotel I
wanted, because my personal
consultant really knew my taste
and was able to shortlist hotels
that perfectly fitted what I was
looking for.’ Beth recommends
using the GoldSmith service
from the start of the
honeymoon-planning process.
‘We were lucky enough to be
upgraded at both Can Simoneta
and Trisara. And we loved
clocking up the loyalty money
we got back on every booking
– we’ve earned enough to enjoy
a “free” night away, so we’re
planning an anniversary treat.’
16
S O U T H - E A S T
LUXE FOR LESS
HOW TO MAKE LONG-HAUL MORE AFFORDABLE
A S I A
H O T E L S
JAPAMALA RESORT
TIOMAN ISLAND, MALAYSIA
Your dream honeymoon needn’t bust the budget.
Sarah Jappy reveals 10 wallet-friendly wonders in South-East Asia
Wake up in your own rainforest
treehouse at Japamala, where
rooms are accessed by winding
walkways and bridges. Tarzans
and Janes can cool down in the
South China Sea, before flirting
over seafood at Tamarind
restaurant.
Don’t miss Cocktails on
the cabanas.
Rooms from £129*
THE PURIST
VILLAS & SPA
BALI, INDONESIA
KOH PHANGAN, THAILAND
Forget Full Moon parties, picture jungle-fringed spa
pavilions, palm-flanked sunloungers, suites with
private plunge pools and an ocean-view restaurant
with free-flowing champagne.
Don’t miss A beachside film screening.
Rooms from £151*
MIA RESORT
NHA TRANG, VIETNAM
Set on a former sugarcane
plantation, Mia sure is sweet:
couples here will be torn
between admiring Nha Trang’s
mountains, the glittering infinity
pool, the demerara-soft sand
and each other.
Don’t miss A private picnic on
the beach.
Rooms from £144*
17
*Smith guarantees the best rates available at the time of booking
ANANTARA RASANANDA
Warning: you are not allowed to
take your butler home with you
when you leave. (Hopefully the
yoga pavilion, spa and lush Ubud
gardens will have you too relaxed
to mind.)
Don’t miss A couple’s Royal
Lulur bath.
Rooms from £213*
AKARYN
KOH SAMUI, THAILAND
Don’t forget to take off your shiny new ring before snorkelling at Akaryn,
which offers waterfront dining, beachside lazing and spa spoiling in
sleepy Hanuman Bay. Bustling Chaweng is a 10-minute drive away, but
the romantic villas may mean you never get there.
Don’t miss Akaryn’s cookery classes.
Rooms from £122*
18
L U X E
F O R
L E S S
S O U T H - E A S T
A S I A
H O T E L S
THE ONE
HOTEL ANGKOR
SIEM REAP, CAMBODIA
The clue’s in the name: this hotel
has just one suite, sprawling
across two storeys, with a
bathroom worth undressing for.
Art lovers will look kindly upon
the colourful lobby, filled with
eye-popping works.
Don’t miss The rooftop Jacuzzi.
Rooms from £67*
ALILA MANGGIS
BALI, INDONESIA
Alila Manggis sits pearl-like on Bali’s unspoiled East Coast, where
the shores are secluded waters, calm and clear. You’ll have an
award-winning cookery school, natural spa and simple, romantic
rooms at your disposal.
Don’t miss A trek to Besakih temple.
Rooms from £78*
THE AMALA
BALI, INDONESIA
Get your marriage off to the right start at the Amala,
thanks to a 15-minute welcome massage, butler
service and on-loan driver. The focus is on privacy
and romance – villas are designed for candlelit
dining; under-12s not allowed.
Don’t miss The spa’s Amala Healing Ritual.
Rooms from £101*
CHIANG MAI, THAILAND
If you love culture as much
as each other, honeymoon at
Rachamankha, inspired by
15th-century Lanna architecture
and bedecked with antiques.
There’s also a tome-stuffed
library, a shimmering pool and a
smart little restaurant, serving
zingy curries.
Don’t miss Chiang Mai’s night
market.
Rooms from £103*
19
RACHAMANKHA
HANSAR BANGKOK
THAILAND
For Bangkok’s best bedrooms
(we’re talking living walls and beds
that cantilever out across the city
skyline), opt for handsome Hansar,
decorated with dark wood,
frangipani trees and friendly staff.
Caffeine fixes await with Elefin
coffee at Café Boca; dress to
impress for Eve restaurant.
Don’t miss Coffee-based
spa treatments.
Rooms from £123*
20
R O M A N T I C
GEAR UP FOR
THE GARDEN ROUTE
R O A D T R I P S
GETTING THERE
S O U T H
A F R I C A
Juliet Kinsman takes to the road in South Africa, combining
coast-hugging highways with winelands and whale-watching
Flights take 11.5 hours from London. Cape
Town international airport is a 30-minute
drive from the city centre. Hiring a car to drive
is easy and cheap – your Smith concierge
can take care of this for you. It’s worth noting
that it is South African law to carry your
international driving licence at all times. It
helps that they, too, drive on the left.
WHEN TO GO
1
2
4
3
WHERE TO STAY
1 KENSINGTON PLACE
2 LA RESIDENCE
3 BIRKENHEAD HOUSE
4 TSALA TREETOP LODGE
Glorious beaches and
soaring mountains frame
the thriving city of Cape
Town, built on the foothills
of Table Mountain
Meander east and the landscape adopts a
moodier disposition, with dense forests,
bushland and dramatic cliffs. You may be
far from the north’s national parks, but you
can still muster a wildlife fix – explore the
sheltered bays of the Western Cape to
spy whales breaching the surf, or head to
Gorah to spot rhinos and elephants.
There’s no bad time to go to Cape Town as
the climate is temperate and they get about
300 days of sunshine a year; March until
May is when the sun and the wind are at their
most enjoyable. If you plan to travel during
their school holidays, in January be sure to
book hotels well in advance; Plettenberg Bay
can get crowded, particularly at Christmas
and Easter. June to November is perfect for
whale-watching: Hermanus, on the Western
Cape, is one of the best spots for land-based
whale spotting when, for several months
a year, southern right whales come to calve
here in the bay.
WHERE TO STOP
It’s an hour’s drive from Cape Town to
Franschhoek, then an hour and a half south
from the Winelands to Hermanus. Gorah is a
further three hours past Plettenberg Bay, but
there’s plenty to pause at on the way.
Travelling along the N2, particularly after
Mossel Bay, gives you one stunning vista
after another: the Four Vlies (lakes) in
Wilderness, the Heads at Knysna and the
mountain peaks behind Plett (as locals
refer to Plettenberg Bay) are all beautiful.
If you like oysters, you won’t taste better
than at Knysna.
22
T H E
1
G A R D E N
R O U T E
R O M A N T I C
R O A D T R I P S
K
ENSINGTON PLACE
CAPE TOWN
STYLE Boutique bonhomie
SETTING Happening Higgovale
SEX APPEAL Nestled in the trunk of
flat-topped Table Mountain,
Kensington Palace is in one of the
leafiest and poshest parts of town;
it’s a 10-minute drive over Kloof
Neck to the beaches of Camps Bay
and Clifton, and the same distance
again to the city centre. For those
who shy from the sun but still revel
in the outdoors, there’s a covered
alcove with plumped cushions and
animal-hide throws by the pool.
Lyndsey Steven
SUITE DREAMS Room 1 has
a double balcony, with a fireplace,
and views over the city and Table
Mountain. Room 7 is without a
vista, but its allure is that it is
secluded with its own private
garden and outdoor-feel bathroom.
2
LA RESIDENCE
4
FRANSCHHOEK
PLETTENBERG BAY
STYLE Cape château
SETTING Valley of vines
STYLE Bastion of imperial glamour
SETTING South African savannah
SEX APPEAL La Residence hotel is
a mini, modern Versailles with a
contemporary shell and a colonial
interior: everywhere the eye comes
to rest there’s a Persian rug, exotic
antique or fine art work. This
Winelands estate will make you
feel as though you’ve been
whisked off to your own private
palace to live in the lap of luxury.
23
3
*Based on departures in Aug 2014
SUITE DREAMS Every suite is
different, but all have a lavish mix
of art and antiques. White and gold
Frangipani has a monumental
marble four-poster and mirrored
bathroom. Feminine Disa Suite is
all delicate pinks and pretty
greens, with a balcony looking over
the pool to the mountains.
T SALA TREETOP
LODGE
BIRKENHEAD HOUSE
HERMANUS
STYLE Breezy boutique
beach house
SETTING Private Hermanus
peninsula
inviting, with a big gilt bed facing
the sea, bohemian details and a
feeling of decadent luxury.
Harriet Came
SEX APPEAL Perched above the
Indian Ocean, the hotel gives an
overwhelming sense of privacy.
Like all the rooms, ours was big,
light and airy, yet warm and
SUITE DREAMS All rooms are
individually decorated, and it
depends whether you want
sea-facing and spacious or a
plunge pool or a four-poster bed.
SEX APPEAL This boutique resort
gives you a bird’s eye view of the
forest from a luxurious stilted hut.
Hopeless romantics needn’t leave
their suite; the three restaurants
will deliver meals to your deck…
SUITE DREAMS The suites are
secluded and cosseting, with
private decks looking out over
the treetops and infinity plunge
pools. Glass walls provide
surround-scene forest views.
Including return flights with BA from London to Cape Town, all car hire, 3 nights at Kensington Place, 2 nights
each at La Residence and (all-inclusive at) Birkenhead House, plus 3 nights at Tsala Treetop Lodge
24
R O M A N T I C
TUSCANY
R O A D T R I P S
GETTING THERE
A TRAIL OF TWO CITIES
I T A L Y
Top and tail a trip through frame-worthy Tuscan landscapes with sojourns
in the superlative cities of Florence and Rome, says Lucy Fennings
1
2 3
4
WHERE TO STAY
1 GRAND HOTEL VILLA CORA
2 CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO
3 MONTEVERDI
4 PORTRAIT ROMA
See beguiling Florentine
art, sip Brunello at a
mediaeval estate and
travel through olive- and
ochre-tinted landscapes
Florence is an incredible city for lovers,
where winding mediaeval streets lead to
Renaissance palazzi. Travel south, via
cypress-crested hilltop estates, to Rome,
for a steeped-in-history finale. With pitstops
designed to sate gourmands and indulge
the senses, this Italian-heartland road trip
is hallmarked ‘happily ever after’.
A BA flight from London City will land you at
Florence’s petite Peretola airport in two
hours; it’s just a 20-minute drive into town
from there. Alternatively, fly into betterserved Pisa airport, around 90 minutes from
Florence. You can collect a hire car on arrival,
but for something with a little more va va
voom, Zephyrus (+39 0578 263298)
delivers a set of stylish vintage wheels to
your (hotel) door: choose a
vintage Ferrari, convertible Alfa Romeo or
characterful Fiat Spider. At the other end,
it’s just under three hours’ flight from
Rome’s Fiumicino to London Heathrow
(20 minutes less if you land at Gatwick).
WHEN TO GO
Late summer for long evenings and
vineyards in all their fruit-bearing glory.
Spring and autumn are magical, especially in
the cities: the light’s amazing, the weather’s
pleasant and the roads less travelled.
WHERE TO STOP
The total drive from Florence in northern
Tuscany to Rome (across the border in Lazio)
takes around five hours: none of the
individual legs is longer than two hours.
En route to the wineries of Montalcino, hit
the Chianti hill-town trail or head straight
to the perfectly preserved mediaeval city
Siena, for its fetching humbug-striped
Duomo and café-lined Campo. Further
south, survey the landscape from atop
Montepulciano’s fortress, or spy Signorelli’s
famous frescoes in Orvieto’s cathedral as
you nip across western Umbria to Rome.
26
T U S C A N Y
R O M A N T I C
1
R O A D T R I P S
RAND HOTEL
G
VILLA CORA
4
FLORENCE
STYLE Roman fashion house
SETTING Spanish Steps
shopping streets
STYLE Renaissance of
a masterpiece
SETTING Bordering the Boboli
SEX APPEAL Villa Cora is palatial,
magnificent, opulent – all those
words that ring hollow because
they’ve been used so many times
to mean ’quite nice, with marble
bits’. It’s stuffed with gilded
stucco, sweeping frescoes and
ornate statuary, but by no means
overblinged. Built in 1870 for a
baron’s wife, it’s a love letter in art
and architecture. Anthony Leyton
ROOMS FROM £154*
2
CASTIGLION DEL BOSCO
STYLE The grape escape
SETTING Verdant Val d’Orcia
SEX APPEAL The emerald lawns
of Castiglion del Bosco are
surrounded by green in all its
colour-chart graduations. There
are nearly 4,500 acres to explore;
we tackle just one tiny corner,
passing by a small 12th-century
church with Lorenzetti frescoes.
As for the infinity pool, it has a
27
MONTALCINO
view of the hills overlooking
Montalcino that’s worthy of a
masterpiece. Matteo Torre
SUITE DREAMS Dotted around
the Borgo are the CdB Suites –
one has a private garden and
wood-burning oven; glamorous
Suite del Vescovo, in the Borgo’s
former ballroom, is best of the lot.
ROOMS FROM £415*
3
MONTEVERDI
SARTEANO
STYLE Mellow mediaeval village
SETTING Colourful Castiglioncello
*Smith guarantees the best rates available at the time of booking. **Based on departures in May 2014
SUITE DREAMS Honeymooners will
love the 1940s-themed Junior
Suite on the fourth floor: the
key-activated private lift lends an
added frisson.
P
ORTRAIT ROMA
ROME
SEX APPEAL Monteverdi is not a
hotel, but an entire village; an
ancient hilltop cluster of
pale stone buildings with a
panoramic aspect across the
Val d’Orcia, which have been
converted with a pool, gardens,
a relaxed breakfast-and-lunch
café and an elegant restaurant.
Blissfully easy as it would be to
while away the day by the infinity
pool, Monteverdi is within
tempting striking distance of
some of the most picturesque
towns in Italy too. Jess
Cartner-Morley
SEX APPEAL We return to the
Portrait Roma with bellies full and
the taste of fresh tomatoes still on
our lips, and climb to the roof
terrace. It’s one of the hotel’s
biggest draws. On one side we can
see the Villa Medici and the
Spanish Steps; on another, we
have an uninterrupted view of the
Vittoriano. To the south-east, the
domes of St Peter and the Vatican
ascend heavenwards. Bee Shaffer
SUITE DREAMS Wood-beamed
rooms evoke rural romance. Do
you want a private garden, a
copper tub for two, or your own
wood-burning fireplace? Book
your Deluxe Suite accordingly.
SUITE DREAMS Every room is
impeccably dressed, but Deluxe
Studio 53 gets our vote, with its
large marble bathroom and a little
balcony for scenic breakfasts.
ROOMS FROM £232*
ROOMS FROM £424*
Including BA flights from London to Florence and return flights from Rome, all car hire, 3 nights at Grand
Hotel Villa Cora and Monteverdi, 2 nights at Castiglion del Bosco, and 2 nights b&b at Portrait Roma
28
R O M A N T I C
CALIFORNIA
R O A D T R I P S
DREAMING
C A L I F O R N I A
A trip along the dramatic coastline from LA through San Francisco and
beyond is a honeymooner’s dream drive, says Rachel Juarez-Carr
4
3
2
WHERE TO STAY
GETTING THERE
1
1 CHATEAU MARMONT
2 POST RANCH INN
3 CAVALLO POINT
4 THE CARNEROS INN
As you wend your way
along the winding
California coast, you’ll see
myriad signposted ‘vista
points’ on the way
Each is more Instagram-ready than the last,
so charge phones and cameras to the max
in advance. And if you’re looking for an
envy-inducing honeymoon self-portrait, pull
over right before the iconic Bixby Creek
Bridge for a jaw-droppingly gorgeous
backdrop.
Land at Los Angeles International Airport
(about 11 hours from London Heathrow).
Start your Golden State adventure on the
Pacific Coast Highway in Malibu; you’ll drive
beside some of LA’s most glorious beaches
and the oceanview homes of the rich and
famous… keep your eyes peeled for dolphins
and dog-walking movie stars.
WHEN TO GO
Central California can get chilly in winter and
muggy in summer – to make the most of
spectacular surroundings in write-homeabout conditions, time your trip to be in
spring or autumn.
WHERE TO STOP
You could get from Big Sur to San Francisco
in under three hours, but it would be
sacrilege to speed through such a
magnificent part of the world (plus, there’s
the small matter of plunging into the Pacific).
Take a leisurely brunch break at the
Fernwood Bar & Grill (they serve the best
Bloody Mary in the forest). Once you’re
among Napa’s rolling hills, lunch at one of
the wineries — the château chic of Domaine
Carneros by Taittinger might just be the
most romantic.
30
C A L I F O R N I A
1
CHATEAU MARMONT
STYLE Louche, luxe, legendary
SETTING High on Sunset
SEX APPEAL Start your
honeymoon at this hedonistic
hotspot: you can hide out in your
bungalow to recover from your
flight, or loiter alongside LA’s
starriest locals at the bar. (Try the
truffle fries – they’re decadent
junk-food heaven.)
D R E A M I N G
R O M A N T I C
R O A D T R I P S
4
LOS ANGELES
STYLE Modernist home on
the range
SETTING California’s bucolic
pastures new
SUITE DREAMS Hillside
Bungalows have the coolest
mid-century decor, private
entrances and access to the pool
from a secret walled garden;
Poolside Bungalows are larger
and more classically designed.
Go totally A-list in the Penthouse
(Room 64) with a wraparound
terrace and marble hallway.
3
CAVALLO POINT
SAN FRANCISCO
ROOMS FROM £300*
2
STYLE Reinvented military marvel
SETTING At the base of the
Golden Gate
POST RANCH INN
STYLE Dramatic cliffhanger
SETTING Redwood forest above
the Pacific
SEX APPEAL The Post Ranch Inn
was named Best Smith Hotel at
the 2013 Smith Hotel Awards: it’s
a real showstopper. Its recycledredwood cabins are strung along
the clifftop, and the only reason
you’ll venture out will be for some
divine dining in Sierra Mar or a
treatment in the organic spa.
SUITE DREAMS Pfeiffer is a cocoon
of redwood with a secluded setting
at the end of the cabins. Other
humans will be hard to come by –
all you can see is sparkling ocean,
wild flowers and trees. We love the
triple veranda, and the re-used
redwood lining the walls in Ross.
ROOMS FROM £453*
*Smith guarantees the best rates available at the time of booking. **Based on departures in Sep 2014
BIG SUR
31
THE CARNEROS INN
NAPA VALLEY
SEX APPEAL The Post Ranch
Inn’s northern sister property
has all its sibling’s charm but in
a much less secluded setting:
the historic boutique hotel is
spread across old officers’
quarters and solar-panelled new
builds near Sausalito – ideal for
An 11-night trip costs from
a superbly stylish city stay.
SUITE DREAMS Pick between
historic and contemporary:
the former are housed in
whitewashed former military
quarters, perfect for fans of
cosiness. If it’s Golden Gate
views you’re after, go for a
contemporary room with a deck.
ROOMS FROM £228*
SEX APPEAL This isn’t your
grandmother’s country stay: it’s
a bold, contemporary vision of
traditional farm structures – the
barns, rancher’s cottages and
silos of Napa Valley have informed
a modern ‘agri-chic’ aesthetic that
marries old-school rocking chairs
with Le Corbusier chaise longues.
Views from the hot tub beside the
infinity pool are dreamy.
SUITE DREAMS All cottages have
private gardens, patios and decks
with romantic outdoor showers.
Vineyard suites have the most
beautiful views.
ROOMS FROM £253*
Including return flights with Virgin Atlantic from London into LA and out of San Francisco, all car hire, 2 nights
at Chateau Marmont, 3 nights at Post Ranch Inn, 3 nights at Cavallo Point and 3 nights at Carneros Inn
32
R O M A N T I C
COSTA RICA
R O A D T R I P S
GETTING THERE
CENTRAL AMERICAN DREAM
C O S T A
R I C A
Cloud forest, hilltop eco-lodges, waterfalls and whale-watching – a 4x4
adventure in Costa Rica will drive you wild, says Lucy Fennings
1
4
The quickest route to San José’s Juan
Santamaría International (SJO) is from
London Heathrow via Miami, with a flight
time of around 14 hours 30 minutes. You’ll
need to hire a decent four-wheel drive to
tackle unpaved mountain roads and dirt
tracks – and, in rainy season, the occasional
river crossing. A 50-minute internal flight
from the Puerto Jiménez airstrip connects
you back to San José for your last stay.
2
3
WHERE TO STAY
1 EL SILENCIO LODGE & SPA
WHEN TO GO
The wet season (May–November) is quiet
and lush, though afternoon rains can make
driving more remote rural roads challenging.
The drier months of December to April see
more sunshine, and more visitors.
2 KURA
3 LAPA RIOS
4 FINCA ROSA BLANCA
Natural wonders abound,
from mist-wreathed
volcanoes to river-etched
rainforests and pristine
Pacific-coast beaches
K U R A
C O S T A
R I C A
Incredible biodiversity is showcased in
Costa Rica’s many protected parks, where
you can hike, scuba-dive, zip-line, birdwatch
and coffee-taste to your heart’s content;
end your days drinking rum-laced almond
lassi in a canopy-slung hammock,
serenaded by tree frogs and toucans.
WHERE TO STOP
Your first port of call is around 90 minutes’
drive from San José airport, in the volcanic
Central Valley. From there, you’ll crest hills
and hug the coast on your way to the South
Pacific beaches. See hand-painted arts and
carts in Sarchí, stop at surf city Jacó or
Quepos for lunch, or seek scarlet macaws in
Carara National Park before heading down to
Ballena, where you might spot migrating
Humpback whales or nesting Hawksbill
turtles. Dive with manta rays off Isla del
Caño, abseil through a waterfall, or explore
mangroves. On the Osa Peninsula, bountiful
Corcovado National Park rivals the Amazon
basin for splendour and rarities: keep your
eyes peeled for rare jaguars, tapirs and
red-backed squirrel monkeys.
34
C O S T A
E
L SILENCIO LODGE & SPA
STYLE Eco suites on stilts
SETTING Cloud forest canopy
SEX APPEAL This 500-acre jungle
retreat has just 16 cabanas.
Trekking the six miles of trails
winding up and down the property,
thick with butterflies, to the triad of
hidden waterfalls, we didn’t see
another soul. Hot chocolate and
just-baked cookies are brought to
your cabin each afternoon; muddy
R O M A N T I C
3
BAJOS DEL TORO
SUITE DREAMS Suites higher up
the hill bring you closer to the cloud
forest. Number 11 attracts
hummingbirds to the plants around
its porch.
ROOMS FROM £164*
KURA
R O A D T R I P S
PLAYA CARBONERA
SEX APPEAL Set in 1,000 acres
of protected old-growth forest on
the Osa Peninsula, this treetop
eco-retreat operates on an
ultra-green basis. There’s no TV,
no internet, and no phone:
thankfully, that means you’ve
every chance of glimpsing a
howler monkey, sloth or macaw
2
before breakfast. To get even
closer to nature, take a guided
hike to spot birds, plant trees or
climb the nearby hill at sunrise.
SUITE DREAMS Peeping through
the trees over Pacific waters,
every thatched treehouse has a
canopy bed (or two). Room 8 has
a particularly spectacular view.
ROOMS FROM £174*
UVITA DE OSA
STYLE Minimalist jungle bungalows
SETTING Perched above the Pacific
SEX APPEAL Kurà has the perfect
hotel pedigree: a hip husband-andwife team decided to open their
idea of a stylish sustainable
getaway. The infinity pool is a
romantic jaw-dropper. From one
angle, the saltwater looks like it
blends seamlessly into the Pacific.
From another, it reflects the thick
trees of the Costa Rican jungle. At
sunset, it’s a shock of fluorescent
pink sky, right at your feet.
SUITE DREAMS Each villa is modern
and open-plan, with bamboo
ceilings, giant floating beds and
wide balconies that hold a hot-pink
hammock for two – the perfect
perch to spot jewel-like frogs and
horizon-igniting lightning storms.
ROOMS FROM £256*
35
LAPA RIOS
STYLE Tropical treehouses
SETTING Reefs and rainforest
hiking shoes are whisked away for
cleaning; and fires continually
crackle in the hearth of the main
lodge. Carey Jones
*Smith guarantees the best rates available at the time of booking. **Based on departures May-Oct 2014
1
R I C A
4
FINCA ROSA BLANCA
STYLE Eccentric eco-inn
SETTING Coffee grounds
SEX APPEAL Organic curves that
Gaudí would envy, whimsical decor
and a commitment to sustainability
make Finca Rosa Blanca an exotic
escape with coffee at its core. Hike
a trail through flower-filled tropical
An 11-night trip costs from
SANTA BARBARA
gardens and tour the plantation,
where they grow, harvest and roast
their own beans; try a ‘cupping’
session to sample the Finca’s
organic shade-grown brew; or
test caffeine’s skin-revivifying
properties in the spa. A brief,
blissful spell here is the perfect
pick-me-up before heading home.
SUITE DREAMS Set in a circular
turret 40 feet above ground, the
Rosa Blanca Suite is the most
romantic spot, with a beautiful
private patio, 360º views from the
wrought-iron bed, and the giant
turquoise-tiled adobe tub.
ROOMS FROM £181*
£3,396 per person on a b&b basis**
Including return flights with Air Canada, all domestic flights and land transfers, 2 nights at both Finca Rosa
Blanca and El Silencio, 3 nights at both Lapa Rios (all-inclusive) and Kurà and 1 night in a San José hotel
36
Q
THE SMITHS’
HONEYMOON CLINIC
For almost a decade, our Travel Team has been planning everything from
champagne-soaked Caribbean blow-outs to off-the-beaten-track
adventures. Here, our experts answer your questions
BAIBA GRASE
Senior honeymoon expert Baiba loves matching
Smith members to their dream hotels, and has
just clocked up her 100th Smith hotel visit. She
specialises in Vietnam, Italy, USA, South Africa
and South America.
A
Honeymoon expert Suzy joined the team after
using Smith to inspire her own wedding and
honeymoon in Barbados. She’s an expert at
arranging exotic honeymoons, and gets especially
excited planning Caribbean forays.
Q
I want my honeymoon to be great value and seriously special. Is it possible?
A
SG Of course, as long as you don’t expect a private island in high season! To save on travel stay closer to
home and stay somewhere special such as Capo La Gala on the Amalfi Coast.
Q
A
He wants action, I want lazy lying in the sun. What to do?
A
BG We’re big advocates of multi-stop escapes, whether in Europe or somewhere further flung (see our
Perfect Pairing feature on page 2 for inspiration). Brazil is great, as you can combine the vim and vibrance
of Rio with a laid-back, do-nothing beach time in Bahia.
SG Australia offers strong combinations: Sydney for the city thrills, then onto the Blue Mountains or Byron
Bay. Or match New Zealand with Fiji: adrenaline sports and outdoors topped with classic beach paradise.
Q
We’ve got time for two nights in London before our big honeymoon next year. Where to stay?
A
BG Take a leaf out of our original Mr and Mrs Smith’s book and check into super-romantic Blakes – it’s
where they spent their wedding night. The Corfu Suite (pictured on the front cover) was voted ‘Sexiest
Bedroom in the World’ at the 2013 Smith Hotel Awards.
BG Cities are good because they offer a lot to
explore on the doorstep; try Austin or New
Orleans (both brimming with personality),
San Sebastián in Spain (for the gorgeous
Basque food) or Berlin or Budapest (see page
46). We have great hotels in all of these.
MADÉVI DAILLY
Smith editor and
beauty writer
Q
A
Which of the honeymoons you’ve arranged
would you most like to do yourself?
SG I was envious of a 10-night American road
trip that included San Francisco, the Post
Ranch Inn in Big Sur, Carneros Inn in Napa
Valley, as well as LA and San Diego.
BG It was a South-East Asia itinerary: three
nights in Hong Kong for the food and rooftop
views, then on to Cambodia, to Siem Reap for
culture and history, followed by a week
at Song Saa Private Island – heaven.
Q
A
Q
A
We want to sneak off and get married and
then enjoy a minimoon. Where?
SG If you’ve got more of a budget and longer
to plan, then you can do the full barefoot-onthe-beach wedding ceremony at somewhere
amazing in the Caribbean, such as La
Samanna in St Martin.
SUSANNAH GARCIA
BG Go long-haul out of peak season – flights and hotels in the Maldives, Bali or Thailand are cheaper if you
don’t follow the crowd. Snap up great offers, such as seven nights for the price of five – we can point you
towards the best promotions.
37
Q
+
We have a two-year-old son. Is it crazy to think
we could enjoy a honeymoon with him in tow?
SG It’s entirely possible to bring the kids
and still have a wonderfully romantic time.
I recommend Puglia in Italy (Masseria Torre
Coccaro and Borgo Egnazia are both fabulous
for families). Further afield, Thailand is very
welcoming, and there are plenty of amazing
hotels with private beaches and great kids
clubs. Soneva Kiri in Koh Kood was named
‘Best for Families’ in the 2013 Smith Hotel
Awards. Check out smithandfamily.co.uk.
I can’t pack my entire cosmetics arsenal:
any essentials for the tropics?
MD A multitasking oil can soothe sun-kissed
limbs, protect hair from the ravages of sea
salt and chlorine, and delicately scent water
for long soaks à deux in the tub; try Lola’s
Apothecary Rose & Neroli Body Oil, rich in
precious rosehip and argan oils. Pack a
day-to-night sheer lipstick, such as Lipstick
Queen in Medieval: a slick of a flattering red
will have you looking pretty on the beach and
polished over sundowner cocktails.
RACHEL JUAREZ-CARR
Smith editor and photographer
Q
A
We’re honeymooning in a gorgeous
location; how to take the best pictures?
RJC Focus on the details: grand, sweeping
landscapes almost always look better on the
postcards, but if you pick out the little things
– like the sun shining through the bubbles of
your champagne as you breakfast on the
balcony – you’ll come home with an album
full of truly personal pictures.
38
IT STARTED IN
NAPLES
Winding roads, secret coves, sparkling sea… The Amalfi Coast and
glamorous Capri are just made for chic Italian idylls, says Madévi Dailly
P L A N E S ,
B O A T S
It’s hard to imagine a
more romantic location
than the Amalfi Coast – a
mountain-backed stretch
of crumpled-wedding-cake
towns spilling down to the
azure Tyrrhenian sea
Sorrento, Positano and Praiano are the star
turns on this postcard-perfect promontory,
south of Naples. Don some shades, tie on a
headscarf and set out for heady days of
cliff-top hiking, hidden-beach picnicking and
limoncello-sipping with the warm, salty
breeze in your hair. Then venture across the
water to explore Capri’s offshore delights.
&
A U T O M O B I L E S
I T A L Y
2
3
4
1
WHERE TO STAY
1 CASA ANGELINA
2 CAPO LA GALA
3 MAISON LA MINERVETTA
4 JK PLACE CAPRI
GETTING THERE
Naples is the gateway to the Amalfi Coast,
with regular flights to the UK and Europe.
Useful rail links and winding roads lead to
Sorrento, about an hour’s drive away. Hire a
convertible or classic car for scenic
village-hopping along the coastline; if
Capri-bound, opt for a speedy hydrofoil to
cross the bay in 20 minutes.
WHEN TO GO
There’s a buzz in the air in summer, when it’s
hot and bustling. Spring and autumn are
quieter, and the weather is still good.
40
A M A L F I
&
C A P R I
P L A N E S ,
B O A T S
3
&
MAISON LA MINERVETTA
STYLE Quirky nautical
SETTING Neapolitan cliffhanger
SEX APPEAL Maison La Minervetta
is a clifftop Fifties villa – once a
restaurant and now reworked by
architect Marco da Luca into a cool
and refreshing boutique hotel.
Refusing to turn its back on the
bay, the hotel has floor-to-ceiling
windows in every room, and its
three sun terraces (the upper
CASA ANGELINA
STYLE Modern Med minimalism
SETTING Rugged cliff side
SEX APPEAL Perched high on the
Sorrentine cliffs, Casa Angelina
gleams brilliant white, hovering
somewhere between moody
mountains and cerulean sea. From
its rooftop terrace, the rocky toe of
Italy stretches into the horizon.
Explore the coastline by boat –
perfect for spotting secluded little
beaches. The hotel’s private
vessel – the Master Angelina – can
be hired for half-day or full-day
tours with your own skipper.
SUITE DREAMS Sleek, white rooms
let the views do the talking.
Although we love the panorama
2
41
4
PRAIANO
CAPO LA GALA
over Praiano from the Grand
Deluxe Suite, Junior Suite 401 has
to be the most reach-for-thecamera impressive, with a vast
private terrace offering 180º views
of Positano and Capri from the
comfort of a luxurious lounger and
a unique Duravit Starck bathtub.
ROOMS FROM £239*
SORRENTO
STYLE Nautically Neapolitan
SETTING Bay of Naples cove
the sea. Charter the hotel’s boats
for two-day trips to Capri or Ischia.
SEX APPEAL Among towering pines
and aromatic lemon trees, hotel
Capo La Gala is a stone-built
spa-enhanced sanctuary made for
sea-gazing and sunbathing. There
are views to the Bay of Naples at
nearly every turn from its terraces,
and a tree-encircled pool with
decking and a rocky path down to
SUITE DREAMS We love Room 205
for the terrific blue and white tiles
in its bathroom; Its vast terrace
isn’t bad, either. Playfully nautical
art – a painting of a green seahorse
here, a model boat there – bring
whimsy to the airy bedrooms.
ROOMS FROM £185*
for cocktails, mid-level for chilling
and a Jacuzzi on the lowest) are
ideal for admiring the view.
SUITE DREAMS All rooms are
sea-facing. Decorated in vibrant
yellow and aquamarine, the Junior
Suite’s our favourite, with two
balconies, a cosy seating area and
a walk-in hydro-massage shower.
ROOMS FROM £151*
JK PLACE CAPRI
CAPRI
*Smith guarantees the best rates available at the time of booking. **Based on departures in May 2014
1
SORRENTO
STYLE Snow-white suntrap
SETTING Overlooking
endless ocean
SEX APPEAL A Fellini movie in hotel
form, this gleaming white
shore-side retreat is the kind of
place you want to re-book as soon
as you leave. Far away enough from
the buzz and night-life noise, it still
somehow manages to attract the
island’s golden girls and guys.
There’s a sunlounger-flanked
heated pool, which allows you to
swim even out of season. And the
ever-ready concierge can arrange
boat trips around the island.
SUITE DREAMS Number 22 on the
second floor faces out onto the
sea, and the bath tub in the middle
of the bathroom floor allows you to
bathe while gazing at the ocean
£2,017 per person on a b&b basis**
Including return international flights with Easyjet, car hire, 2 nights at
Casa Angelina (room only), 3 nights at Capo La Gala, 3 nights at
Maison La Minervetta and 2 nights at JK Place Capri
ROOMS FROM £349*
42
WHEN IN
GREECE
The Greek islands are a long-time darling of the jet set, but where to
start? Madévi Dailly unearths a trio of Hellenic heroes
P L A N E S ,
B O A T S
Laid-back and low-tech in
all the right places,
Santorini, Mykonos and
Spetses elevate a holiday
into a honeymoon with
glamour, good food and
spectacular scenery
These three Greeks bear different gifts.
Rocky retreat Santorini is a quietly
sophisticated stunner. Mykonos, its livelier
Cycladic cousin, has beautiful beaches by
the bucketload, and architectural eye candy
courtesy of the curved bay of sugar-cube
houses at Chora. Unspoilt Spetses is the
stuff of nostalgia – little known, and
accessible only by boat.
43
&
G R E E C E
4
3
2
1
WHERE TO STAY
1 AENAON VILLAS
2 SUN ROCKS
3 CAVO TAGOO
4 POSEIDONION GRAND HOTEL
GETTING THERE
SUITABLY SANTORINI
Athens, well served by UK flights, is the
starting point for most seafaring adventures
(although Santorini’s on a direct route from
Gatwick); Spetses is a three-hour drive and a
quick water-taxi away. Smith’s honeymoon
experts can book hydrofoils, which ply the
routes to Mykonos (two hours) and Santorini
(a further three hours).
This volcanic beauty in the Cyclades is famed for its
sunsets. Take a room facing the turquoise sea for one
of the most idyllic views on the planet.
WHEN TO GO
SPECIFICALLY SPETSES
Mainlanders tend to boat over to the islands
during the high summer or over the Easter
weekend. If you prefer things cooler and
quieter, visit in the shoulder season: May or
September are good options.
Spetses is the retreat of choice for affluent Athenians.
Part-pedestrianised, it retains an old-fashioned charm.
Enjoy the town’s mansion-strewn skyline from offshore:
sailing or swimming in the sun-dappled Aegean.
MARVELLOUSLY MYKONOS
Beaches and a night-owl-pleasing social scene are the
two main draws to this Cycladic outpost. Away from the
buzz of the southern beaches, find bliss in rocky creeks,
quiet coves and crystal-clear waters.
44
S A N T O R I N I ,
M Y K O N O S
&
1
S P E T S E S
P L A N E S ,
B O A T S
&
AENAON VILLAS
SANTORINI
STYLE Contemporary curves
SETTING Panoramic north
Santorini paradise
SEX APPEAL At these Cycladic
villas set into the cliffside between
Imerovigli and Oia, designer
loungers are scattered around
curved infinity pools that melt into
the horizon with billowing linen on
outdoor four-poster beds. Even the
flooring is a showstopper – an
expanse of gleaming white.
ROOMS FROM £235*
2
SUN ROCKS
SANTORINI
STYLE Cycladic chic
SETTING Carved from the
caldera basin
private terraces made for idling and
memorable sea views. (Sun Rocks
is also a wonderful wedding venue.)
SEX APPEAL Whitewashed caves
dotted higgledy-piggledy along the
sharp coastline, a swimming pool
overlooking the caldera,
spellbinding sunsets: Sun Rocks is
a peaceful sanctuary just for
couples. Rooms are kept
deliberately uncluttered, with
SUITE DREAMS The Experience
rooms differ from the rest: modern
and open-plan, with wooden floors,
sunken Jacuzzis and folding glass
walls that transform the interior
into an extended terrace.
45
ROOMS FROM £243*
CAVO TAGOO
MYKONOS
STYLE Med à la mode
SETTING Mykonos’
cliff-side caves
*Smith guarantees the best rates available at the time of booking.
booking **Based on departures in May 2014
SUITE DREAMS At the complex’s
summit, Villa Elidami is a lover’s
retreat with a loft-level bedroom,
a veranda above the entrance, and
a big terrace, with a private plunge
pool, stretching to the front of the
hotel. Downstairs, the lounge has
views out across Santorini to the
sea on both sides.
4
3
is a no-luxury-spared space.
SEX APPEAL Each of Cavo
Tagoo’s 80 rooms are built into
the rocks – given a recent style
injection from award-winning
architect Paris Liakos. With
harbour views, a spa and
seawater infinity pool, this
SUITE DREAMS Plump for a
room with a private plunge pool.
Classic and Deluxe Rooms offer
sizeable spaces, but the Golden
Villas with clifftop verandas
provide an irresistible trio of
space, pool and view.
ROOMS FROM £252*
P
OSEIDONION
GRAND HOTEL
SPETSES
STYLE Cannes by way of Spetses
SETTING Pine-scented Pityoussa
SEX APPEAL Delivering a shot of
Continental glamour, Poseidonion
Grand Hotel is the Athenian A-list’s
coastal playground. Where the
lavender blossoms in the gardens,
there’s a grass-green glass-tiled
pool. Home to a blissful spa and a
trio of restaurants, this palatial
hotel is island life at its most luxe.
SUITE DREAMS Lovebirds will fall
for the star-spying glass ceiling,
mezzanine loft, freestanding bath
tubs and private terrace of the
Cupola Suite.
ROOMS FROM £161*
Including flights from London to Santorini, ferry transfer to Mykonos and return flights via Athens, 3 nights
each at Aenaon Villas, Cavo Tagoo and Poseidonion Grand Hotel. To replace Aeneon Villas with Sun Rocks
(on a b&b basis), prices start at £1,466 per person
46
HIP CITY MINIMOONS
IN LARGER-THAN-LIFE CITIES
You may not have much time, but why scrimp on style? Smith editor
Kate Weir picks personality-packed cities perfect for a short-hop honeymoon
tryst-worthy bathtubs and a ridiculously romantic
outdoor deck. Rooms from £187.*
SEE Ottoman-era Topkapi Palace is a treasure trove of
Moorish relics and a remarkably romantic abode (+90
212 512 0480). Brush up your haggling skills in the
Arasta and Grand Bazaars, where you can browse
arm-in-arm with your amour (+90 212 517 6813).
BUDAPEST
In the Hungarian capital, the
Danube waltzes past World
Heritage sights, and mediaeval
spires mingle with trendy ‘ruin’
bars and elegant eateries.
honesty bar make this magical
Magyar hideout a memorable
place to stay. Rooms from £50.*
STAY Brody House is an art gallery
with beds. Artfully dishevelled
vintage trappings, colourful
cutting-edge artwork and a handy
47
SEE At Széchenyi thermal baths
you can soak in splendour with
sunken pools (kept toasty by
thermal springs), flanked by
lemon-hued neo-classical
architecture (+36 (1)363 3210).
STAY A’jia is a former pasha’s mansion – a white
neo-classical charmer cresting out of the Bosphorus’
cobalt waters. Its grand exterior conceals minimalist
river-view bedrooms, sleek statement pieces,
MARRAKECH
PARIS
Sybaritic nightlife, re-imagined
imperial architecture, a vibrant
cafe culture and a dizzying art
scene – this handsome and
historic city has no pause button.
Myth and modernity are as
intricately interwoven as a Berber
rug in this charmingly chaotic city.
Winding streets give way to the
madcap medina and serene riads,
and mosques and Moorish
palaces are silhouetted against
the Atlas Mountains.
Synonymous with romance,
maybe, but this grand dame of a
city still has the charisma to woo.
There’s no denying the allure of
balcony-frilled Haussmanian
architecture, gracious green
spaces and the serpentine Seine.
STAY Das Stue is neighbours with
Berlin Zoo, which inspired their
feathered and clawed paintings
and sculptures. Guests are
encouraged to unleash their
animal instincts, with a hedonistic
30-course menu in the
restaurant, an Alpine-inspired spa
and Patricia Urquiola-designed
bedrooms. Rooms from £151.*
ISTANBUL
This Byzantine beauty has wedding-cake-shaped
mosques and minarets, fragrant souks and side-street
shishas by the Bosphorus.
BERLIN
SEE Work by more than 100
artists plasters the city’s most
infamous landmark at the Berlin
Wall East Side Gallery. It’s true
that Berlin is teeming with
must-visit galleries, but few are as
emotive as this (+49 (0)172 391
8726). Lichtblick Kino in
Prenzlauer Berg is a delightfully
dishevelled cinema with quirky
billings old and new to thrill any
cineaste couples. Make a date
for the weekly showing of
Casablanca on Saturday at
midnight (+49 (0)304 405 8179).
STAY Winston Churchill stayed at
La Mamounia: it’s easy to see
why; spectacularly dressed
suites, a colonial-chic bar and
Michelin-starred restaurant
scream old-school glamour. The
hotel’s recent makeover by
Jacques Garcia is seriously
impressive. Rooms from £327.*
STAY Hot pink and powder-puff
hues prevail at La Belle Juliette,
a confection of a bolthole where
rooms have ravishing roll-top tubs
and begging-to-be-bounced-on
beds. There’s also a spoiling spa,
a bar with a baby grand and
bespoke cocktails here in
splendid St Germain. Rooms
from £167.*
SEE Get up close and personal
with dramatic valleys and Berber
villages of the Atlas Mountains:
your hotel concierge can organise
guided walks or a hot-air balloon
trip. Once you’ve stocked up on
earthy-hued spices in the souks
and fine-tuned your taste for
Moroccan fare, head to Faim
D’Epices to learn how to whip up a
top-notch tagine, preserve
lemons and perfect couscous
(+212 (0)600 048800).
SEE An after-dark visit to the
Louvre is far less queue bothered
than by day. Flit by the most
famous pieces and head for the
Richlieu Wing, where the French
collection resides (open late
Wednesdays and Fridays, +33
(0)1 40 20 50 50). For Gallic-style
sauce at its best, head to risqué
cabaret Le Crazy Horse, where
kittenish coquettes model little
more than an avant-garde light
show (+33 (0)1 47 23 32 32).
48
BECOME A
TRAVEL VIP
Book a honeymoon of seven nights or more with Mr & Mrs Smith and
we’ll upgrade you to our GoldSmith membership
The best in boutique hotels,
personalised service, loyalty
benefits and free extras –
arranging your honeymoon through
Smith is trip-enhancing in itself.
But, our top membership tier,
GoldSmith, entitles you to even
more VIP extras, including free
room upgrades and a generous 5%
back in your loyalty account
whenever you book with us. A
honeymoon alone could earn you
enough for a weekend away – call it
an early anniversary present.
FREE
GOLDSMITH
MEMBERSHIP
WORTH £400
Call our honeymoon experts on 0845 034 0700 and mention the phrase: Honeymoon Gold
SMITH GIFT LIST
Not another punch bowl…
AMALFI COAST • BALI • BERLIN
BUDAPEST • CALIFORNIA • CAMBODIA
CAPE TOWN • COSTA RICA • GREEK ISLANDS
ISTANBUL • MALAYSIA • MALDIVES
MARRAKECH • MEXICO • MIAMI • NEW YORK
PARIS • ROME • SRI LANKA • ST LUCIA
THAILAND • TUSCANY • VIETNAM
Mr & Mrs Smith is the definitive guide to the most
romantic boutique hotels throughout the world, making
us the perfect match to organise your honeymoon.
Whether you’re after a few days in Paris, a week
hopping the Greek islands or a luxury crash pad in the
Maldives, we can tailor-make your perfect trip.
‘Smith really got to know me and my plans for the big
day and beyond. After a while I didn’t even need to
explain what kind of hotel I wanted, because my personal
consultant already knew my taste’
GoldSmith member and Smith honeymooner
Beth Ikponmwosa
Invite your guests to contribute
to a trip you won’t forget. Create
a wedding list on our website
and we’ll send you stylish
Wedding List cards to forward
with your invitations. When your
wedding list closes, your Smith
travel concierge will help you
to use all those generous
donations towards booking your
honeymoon. Simple, elegant
and better than a toaster.
mrandmrssmith.com/gift-list
49

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