wellington hawaii los angeles honolulu new york haleiwa oahu

050
WORDS KIRK OWERS
PHOTOS KIRK OWERS AND NATHAN SMITH
OAHU,
HAWAII
KAUAI
OAHU
HALEIWA
HONOLULU
WAIKIKI
MOLOKAI
MAUI
LANAI
HAWAII
WELLINGTON
LOS ANGELES
NEW YORK
THE ALOHA SPIRIT LINGERS ON THE PACIFIC’S
BUSIEST
ISLAND
WHERE
HUGE
WAVES,
GORGEOUS SCENERY AND A BUSTLING CAPITAL
SHAPE AN ECLECTIC MODERN PARADISE.
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KAHOOLAWE
HAWAII
052
OAHU, HAWAII
Oh. Ah. Hoo... Just pronouncing the melodious pacific island name is an exotically
charged experience. It’s not a big leap to imagine yourself supine beneath a palm tree,
icy Mai-Tai in hand, slack-key guitar drifting in on a warm kona breeze. Maybe you’re
lazing in a hibiscus-themed shirt contemplating a recklessly late surf at Banzai Pipeline.
Or, to hell with it, more cocktails, dinner in Waikiki and bring on the hula girls.
Oahu comfortably lives up to the tourist clichés. The water is warm and clear and palm
trees stud the shoreline. Locals are friendly, supernaturally attractive and call out “aloha”
(love) for all sorts of reasons. Waikiki is the hub for the generic package tourist and for
that reason alone we suggest a base on the North Shore. Here volcanic mountains,
water-spilling valleys and the most spectacular waves on earth surround. It’s scenic
and laid back to the point of inversion. Once you tire of surf and sand, Honolulu and all
the temptation of America’s 50th state is only an hour away.
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OAHU, HAWAII
SLEEP
Condominiums they call them in the US of A. They’re
what you and I know as self-contained units and they’re
the best value accommodation in Hawaii. Condos are
more spacious than hotels and come with kitchens and
laundries. You need to book in advance (see rental agents
mentioned), often for a minimum of three days at a time.
Perfect if you’re travelling in a group and plan to base
yourself in the one area.
Hotel prices vary wildly in Honolulu. The savvy traveller
can score a sweet walk-in rate, even a free hire car (ring
around and ask about the special deals). Once you leave
the city accommodation options thin out. The North Shore
is crawling with surfers in winter, especially December,
and you’ll want to book ahead. Family run B&B’s are a
great option for friendly local hospitality away from the
tourist centres. Backpackers and camp grounds are
available in limited areas for those on a budget.
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OHANA ISLANDER, WAIKIKI
Set slightly back from the sand the
Ohana Islander offers clear views
of central Waikiki. Throw open your
curtains, pop a can of bud, crank up
MTV and drink in the neon cityscape.
That’s Diamond Head in the distance,
bustling Kalakaua Avenue in the
foreground and the sparkling pacific
ocean to your right. It’s priced right
and is well situated for a day or two
of exploring Waikiki. $119-$279.
270 Lewers St, Honolulu.
ohanahotels.com
BACKPACKERS VACATION INN
AND PLANTATION VILLAGE
This hostel is the best budget option
on the North Shore with a history of
looking after economical travellers
from across the globe. They run a
regular airport shuttle bus and offer
private rooms and bungalows as
well as cheap share accommodation.
Also known as Foo’s after the
legendary big wave surfer who
managed the hostel. Perfect if you
want to meet fellow travellers on
the highway of life (and share a
bathroom with them). $22- $250.
59-788 Kamehameha Highway,
Haleiwa, Hawaii 96712.
backpackers-hawaii.com
SHERTON MOANA SURFRIDER
With her elegant footings cooling
in the Pacific Ocean right there
on Waikiki Beach the “First lady
of Waikiki” has set the standard
in sophisticated lodgings in the
Sandwich Islands since 1901. Period
furnishings and architecture are
spliced with modern fittings and
services, matching the elegance
of the past with the luxury of the
present. The milling crowds of
Waikiki are just outside the door but
you may want just to hang by the
pool and celebrate your good fortune.
$250-$400 (with free hire car)
greathawaiivacations.com
TURTLE BAY APARTMENTS
Two landscaped pools, ten tennis
courts, two championship golf
courses, multiple restaurants, shops,
helicopters and five miles of beach
front are just some of the recreational
pleasures that await you at the Turtle
Bay Resort. You can pimp as large
as Diddy (some cottages come with
a butler service) with tariffs to match,
but you don’t have to. Privately
owned condos can be found on the
web for as little as $200 a night (vrbo.
com/45692). Located close to the
North Shore at: 57-091 Kamehameka
Hwy, Kahuku. turtlebayresort.com
NORTH SHORE HOUSE RENTAL
If you’re travelling in a group, renting
a house on the north shore is a
great option. The area is considered
“country” and there are no major
hotels (besides Turtle Bay) and
only a handful of small condo-style
rentals. Mellow and neon-free, it’s
the very opposite of the Waikiki
experience. Most beach houses have
grass yards which tumble into the
sand. Frangipani, hibiscus and palms
provide shade and scent. See
Sunsethomes.net or sterman.com
KEIKI BEACH BUNGALOWS
Ideally located right on the sand in
the midst of the North Shore’s seven
mile surf strip KBB offers a range
of comfy bungalows. Most have
kitchens, expansive ocean views,
hammocks in the palm-studded
yard and cable TV. Furnishings and
fittings aren’t high tech but the prices
are affordable and the atmosphere
is in keeping with the North Shore
experience: laid back. Managers
Greg and Annie are friendly and full
of good advice. $165-$235.
59-579 Ke Iki Road, Sunset Beach.
Ph:868 638 8229. keikibeach.com
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OAHU, HAWAII
EAT / DRINK
Seven million tourists visit Hawaii each year, an island state populated by a blend
of over 25 ethnic groups. Both stats indicate a sensational variety and standard of
food. World class chefs prepare lavish extravaganzas for moneyed patrons in ritzy
Honolulu hotels. Down town, Portuguese patisseries, Vietnamese take-outs, Korean
sushi joints and local seafood restaurants mingle with the ubiquitous fast food outlets.
Outside the city the food is more localised. For a quintessential Hawaiian experience
roll up to a lunch truck and throw down a plate of pan-fried shrimp or teriyaki chicken
- simple, sustaining and delicious. Nightlife is fast and gaudy in the capital where
temptations compete to empty your wallet. When night falls on the somnolent North
Shore, it’s acoustic guitars on the back porch, the roar of the ocean, an eight pack of
bud, a sky full of unfamiliar stars... or 78 screaming channels of cable TV.
HALEIWA JOE’S
Haleiwa, a semi-hippy town at
the entrance to the North Shore,
has a good selection of cafes
and eateries. Joe’s is the best
up-market restaurant, specialising
is super-fresh seafood from the
harbour it overlooks. Traditional
Hawaiian recipes blended with Asian
influences (island fish steamed in ti
leaves with sesame oil, fresh ginger
cilantro and green onion) are the
speciality, but thick juicy steaks
share the menu. There’s also a bar
which has live music on weekends
– ’round these parts, its banging.
66-001 Kamehameha Ave, Haleiwa.
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CAFÉ HALEIWA
Don’t be put off by the shambolic
exterior - this is the pick of breakfast
joints on the surf coast. Walls are
plastered with colourful surf art,
tables are old-school formica and
the general vibe is authentically
North Shore, meaning it’s friendly
and unpretentious. Popular with
international surfers and locals (a
good sign), all meals are tasty and
filling. Try the Breakfast in a Barrel
- you won’t walk out of here hungry,
Bubba. They also do good cheap
burgers for lunch.
66-460 Kamehameha Ave, Haleiwa.
THE SURF SHACK
There are only a handful of eateries
in the heart of the North Shore: Ted’s
Bakery and the Sunset Diner are
busy little takeouts dealing in burgers,
chips and pastries. If you want a
sit down meal, the shack is a great
option (it’s the only option). While the
menu is limited you can get a nice
piece of mahi-mahi (fish) with beans
and greens for under ten bucks.
Excellent vego meals and health
shakes are also available. Thongs are
dressing up. Located opposite Rocky
Point on the Kamehameha Hwy.
DUKE’S BAREFOOT BAR, WAIKIKI
When I strolled in to Duke’s the
sun was on the horizon and a big
fat Polynesian leaned against most
of the bar. He strummed a ukulele
and sang happy-sounding songs
with two of his big beefy buddies. I
ordered a beer and looked around.
Tourists stumbled in from the beach,
couples sat down to dinner. The
waitresses were fast and friendly.
Cocktails with umbrellas littered
the tables. It was busy but not too
busy. You could see the surf. I liked it
straightaway. Located ocean-side at
the Moana Surf Rider Hotel, Waikiki.
TURTLE BAY
For a selection of fine dining options
close to the North Shore, Turtle Bay
is the spot. Within the resort are
three classy restaurants, a buffet
eatery (Palm Terrace) an outdoor
bar and grill (Hang Ten) and a late
night boogie floor (Bay Club). Ola’s,
an open air restaurant set on Bay
View Beach is the pick of the bunch,
offering an impressive array of
Hawaiian and international cuisine. If
you can’t get laid after splashing out
on a night at Ola’s, you never will. 57091 Kamehameha Highway, Oahu.
WAIKIKI CLUBS
If you want to go “out” out, Wave
is the pick of the clubs in Honolulu.
It has live bands on weekends but
plays a mix of a hip hop, dance,
alternative and trance music most
nights. This is not a cutting edge
city club by any means but it’s big
and popular. Pipeline is the other
major club – it attracts a younger uni
student crowd. Da Dawg House is a
rocking little sports bar with cheap
beer and loud hip hop. Honolulu, in
general, seems more geared towards
cocktails and sunsets, than clubs.
Wave – 1877 Kalakua Ave.
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OAHU, HAWAII
PLAY
Hawaiians were the world’s first surfers and wave-riding remains a big part of
island life. Between November and March the North Shore is routinely pounded by huge,
sculpted, high-performance waves. World championship events are held, professional
surfers stay for months at a time, cameramen crowd the beach and excitement rents
the air. Dangerous, dramatic and strictly for the experts, it makes for great viewing.
Meanwhile, nearby breaks on the south shore are ideal for beginners.
All water sports are big in Hawaii: the diving and snorkelling are excellent, sea-kayaking
is taking off (especially off the jagged coast of Kaui) and wind-surfing, sailing and kiteboarding are all popular options. Inland, mountain-biking, hiking and horse-riding are
cool ways to explore the undulating countryside. If you can island hop: the Big Island
has the biggest, liveliest volcanoes (and ski-able snow in winter), Kauai is the greenest
and least developed, Lani has the most exclusive resorts and Maui has stunning scenery
and golf courses to make Greg Norman shed tears of joy.
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HIKE THE DIAMOND
Diamond Head, the dramatic
volcanic mountain back-dropping
Waikiki is such an obvious tourist
destination it’s often overlooked.
Hawaiians call it Leahi and built a
temple on top for showy human
sacrifices; more recently the US
military tricked it up with tunnels,
gun placements, bunkers and
observations posts. If that doesn’t
get you horny the view from the
summit certainly will: east to Koko
crater and the Koolau Mountains,
west to glittering Honolulu and the
beaches of Waikiki. Thirty minutes
to the top, some tunnels, chance of
meeting ex-army gun nuts on the
way - high.
HONOLULU FIX
Honolulu is the bustling ying to the
peaceful North Shore’s yang. Waikiki
is stacked to the sky with bars,
restaurants and shops; downtown
Honolulu has the old harbour, the
art/student/redlight district around
Chinatown and Iolani Palace, the
USA’s only royal palace (former
home of King Kalakaua). Things
to buy include ukulele rip-offs and
garish plastic cookie jars shaped like
enormous waves which play Beach
Boys medleys when you open them.
It’s a kitsch and tacky town – don’t
fight it.
DIVING
Oahu has the best wreck diving
in Hawaii. Directly off the coast of
Waikiki Beach certified divers can
explore the YO-257, a 110 foot navy
vessel deliberately sunk to create
an artificial reef. The North Shore
has some great reefs and caves and
beautiful clear water – but diving and
snorkelling are only really possible
in the summer months when the
swell has backed off. The most
spectacular diving, in terms of coral
and marine life, happens on the Kona
side of the Big Island.
LONGBOARD WAIKIKI
Legend has it when a naked
gentleman and his lady friend surfed
together in Ancient Hawaii it would
often lead to joyous, uninhibited
rumpy on the sand. Today surfing
maintains some of that primal
urgency and sex appeal aplenty.
Want in? Waikiki on the island’s
south shore is the perfect spot for
beginners. You’ll see everyone from
five-year-old boogie-boarders to
76-year-old granma’s from Ohio
catching waves in out-rigger canoes,
screaming, “outta my way, mudda
humpers!” See the beach stands
at Kuhio Beach Park for boards
and lessons.
ISLAND HOP
Oahu will keep you busy but it’d
be a shame to visit only one of the
322 reefs, atolls and isles that make
up Hawaii. Each of the four major
islands has something unique to
offer, but Kauai and the Big Island
are the pick of the bunch. Kauai
because it’s velvety green and the
least developed – Waimea Canyon
and the dramatic Na Pali coastline
are not to be missed. And the Big
Island because it has the biggest,
most active volcanoes and best
diving. You can even snowboard on
its biggest mountain, Mauna Kea,
in winter.
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OAHU, HAWAII
PLAY
The Waves (a spectators guide). Oahu has over 500
recognised surf spots. The best (biggest and most
dangerous) are heaped together on a seven mile strip
along The North Shore. Swells are often big in winter
(Nov-March) and non-existent in summer (May-Aug).
Below are the most famous spots. None are sign-posted
– hire a bike in Haleiwa and ride the coastal bike track to
best check them out.
SUNSET BEACH
A huge open ocean wave, Sunset
can handle waves with over 20
foot faces (12 foot in surfspeak). It
breaks way out to sea and resembles
an avalanche of white water as it
lurches towards the inside bowl
where it barrels or shuts down...
with conviction. Revered as one of
surfing’s most challenging spots,
it’s hard to appreciate from shore
without binoculars.
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ROCKY POINT
Rocky Point is a super-fun, highperformance wave suitable for
experienced surfers of modest
abilities. More a series of random
peaks than a point break, it handles
waves up to about six foot and
breaks left and right. Rockies will be
super-crowded most days unless you
hit it early. It’s a great place to watch
the world’s best surfers ripping it up.
PIPELINE/BACKDOOR
A perfectly cylindrical peak
barrelling left (Pipe) and right
(Backdoor) 20 metres from the
sand – it’s impossible to get a wave
here unless you are one of the
sports elite. Spectacular viewing,
especially during the Pipe Masters
in December; its shallow, intense
and very powerful, people die here.
Tip: wave surges can drag unwary
sunbathers to sea.
OFF THE WALL
OTW is a wilder, less predictable
version of Backdoor. It offers a
long tube ride which too often ends
in a shuddering, bone-snapping
close-out in three inches of water
over coral reef. If it was a ski run
it wouldn’t be marked by a black
diamond but with a security fence
and a sign saying: Wrong Way,
Go Back.
ROCK PILES
No one surfed here before legropes
were invented and for a very good
reason. It breaks in front of rocks.
And not just any rocks – columns of
coral rock which can spear out of
the water when a wave drains past.
The outside peak is a mountainous
wedge which runs into a triple
sucking inside section called,
appropriately, Insanities. Don’t surf
here. Don’t swim here. Don’t even
wash your feet in the shore dump.
WAIMEA BAY
This legendary big wave spot handles
thirty foot waves but it only breaks a
handful of times a season. When it’s
in full cry the roadside will be packed
with cars and spectators gawping at
the action. Ironically, it’s often one of
the safest beaches to swim on the
North Shore as it’s usually flat.
NB: Always talk to the lifeguards
before swimming.
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OAHU, HAWAII
DIARY
LOCAL HERO
TEA TIME AT THE
MOANA SURFRIDER
It’s a great way to spend the
afternoon, watching people catch
their very first waves out at Waikiki.
Go for a tandem surf afterwards if
you’re not too full.
SURFING ROCKY POINT
After the mad rush of professional
surfers have gone home from the
winter months. The waves are just as
good from february til april but half
the crowd.
SHAVE ICE
In the afternoon at Aokis in Haleiwa,
it’s really refreshing. It may sound
like a weird combo, but try the li hing
mui/raspberry /lilikoi all in one cone,
with vanilla ice cream at the bottom.
Sugar rush!
SHOPPING AT THE
ALA MOANA CENTER
I know it’s super girly, but
Ala Moana has really good stores
and lunch at Neiman Marcus makes
the day complete.
ALA WEI CHALLENGE
CANOE FESTIVAL
Polynesians arrived on Hawaii, the
most isolated island chain in the
world, by paddling outrigger sea
canoes – a gob-smacking feat
of seamanship, endurance and
navigation. The Ala Wai Challenge
celebrates the achievement with
canoe races and associated fanfare.
It takes place the third Sunday in
January along the Ala Wei canal
in Waikiki.
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ALOHA WEEK
The word “aloha” is most often
used as a greeting but it means
much more: it’s a mutual regard and
affection which extends warmth with
no obligation in return. It’s also a
pseudo-spiritual belief (to hear what
is not said, to see what cannot be
seen and to know the unknowable)
intrinsic to many Hawaiian’s way of
life. Find out more at Aloha Week,
a celebration of Hawaiian culture,
happening throughout the islands
in late September.
HAWAIIAN INTERNATIONAL
FILM FESTIVAL
Now in its 25th year, the Louis
Vuitton HIFF has become the biggest
event on Hawaii’s cultural calendar.
Over 200 films from across the globe
will show this year and some 65,000
patrons are expected to attend the
screenings, seminars and booze-ups.
Begins on Oahu in mid November
then tours the nearby islands. hiff.org
THE PIPE MASTERS – DECEMBER
With the possible exception of bullfighters, boxers and extreme skiers,
no sportsmen risk as much as Pipe
surfers. The wave is a big, brutal,
barrelling beast of a thing which
breaks close to shore on a shallow
coral reef. The biggest contest is the
Pipe Masters, which often decides
the world surfing title (it’s the last
event of the surfing calendar, held in
mid December). Seats on the sand
are free. aspworldtour.com
Malia Jones is a Hawaiian surfer and model, born
and bred as a Rocky Point local on the north shore
of Oahu. When she’s not travelling between her second
homes of Biarritz and Sydney, or designing her new
swimwear range ‘malialuvsmambo’, she heads home for
some quality time in paradise.
RUNNING AROUND
KEEANA POINT
This off road trail goes from Mokuleia
on the north shore for three miles
around to the west side of Oahu,
a really beautiful run or hike along
the ocean.
DRINKING MAI TAIS
at the Royal Hawaiian Mai Tai bar
in Waikiki and watching the hula
dancers at the end of a day makes
you realise why you love Hawaii.
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OAHU, HAWAII
READ / WATCH / LISTEN
READ
James Michener’s Hawaii is a
compelling work of historical fiction
by a master story-teller. The Happy
Isles of Oceania by travel writer
Paul Theroux, traces the author’s
journey throughout the Pacific
Islands, eventually to Hawaii, and is
full of strong insight, rumination and
adventure (see also Hotel Honolulu
by the same author). For guide
books, The Lonely Planet series are
highly recommended.
THE FACTS
THANKS TO STA TRAVEL
WATCH
Blue Horizons is a sumptuously
filmed surf doco which traces the
divergent lives of two professional
surfers, including the Hawaiian
former world champ, Andy Irons.
It gives a great insight into the sport
and includes many spectacular
Hawaiian waves. Blue Hawaii,
starring Elvis Presley, is a corny
60s movie which sets the tone for
much of the souvenirs still on
display in Waikiki.
LISTEN
Spanish immigrants brought across
the small guitars which became
ukuleles, the centre piece of
Hawaiian music. Slack-key guitar,
a loose tuning technique used on
steel guitars, is the other major sonic
influence. Hawaiian tunes tend to be
laid back, romantic ditties. Popular
surf musician Jack Johnson (who
lives and records on the North
Shore) has blended traditional
influences and modern beats with
great success. KINE 105.1 FM is the
local’s station and the best place
to hear traditional and modern
Hawaiian music.
LOCATION
Oahu is the third largest of the
inhabited Hawaiian Islands, but home
to nearly three quarters of the state’s
residents.
TRANSPORTATION
More so than any other Hawaiian
Island, Oahu is easy to navigate. A
complete selection of transportation
options and a fairly simple highway
system give visitors many choices. It
just depends on what plans you have
for exploration.
If you’re staying in Waikiki and don’t
intend to move much farther than the
beach, you won’t need a car. If you’re
staying on the north shore, hiring a
car is often the easiest option.
CURRENCY
American Dollars USD
$1 AUD = approximately $0.74 USD
KIRK OWERS IS A FREELANCE WRITER AND PHOTOGRAPHER BASED ON THE
MID NORTH COAST. AS WELL AS CONTRIBUTING TO PAPERPLANE, HE IS THE
FEATURES EDITOR FOR WAVES MAGAZINE.
PAPERPLANE WOULD LIKE TO THANK HAWAII TOURISM AUSTRALIA AND HAWAIIAN AIRLINES FOR THEIR
ASSISTANCE. HAWAIIAN AIRLINES FLIES DIRECT FROM SYDNEY TO HONOLULU FOUR TIMES PER WEEK.
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APPROXIMATE AIRFARES
STA Travel offers direct flights from
Sydney to Honolulu and flights via
Sydney, Auckland or Nadi from all
other capitals. Return fares start at
$998 plus taxes ex Sydney.
CLIMATE/BEST TIME TO GO
You can travel year round to Oahu,
though the best weather is often
found in April, May, September and
October. These are also the months
when you can find some good
travel bargains.
The busiest tourist season is
December to February. June to
October is the “hottest” period but
is still pleasant. Rainfall is heaviest
between December and March, but
not so heavy as to be a concern.
If you wait a while the sun will come
out and you will be rewarded with
a glorious rainbow. Hotel prices
are lowest between April and
mid-December.
OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION
If you are traveling to USA on an
Australian or NZ passport you may be
entitled to travel up to 90 days without
a visa, provided you have met all the
requirements in the “Are you entitled
to travel visa free to the USA” form
and the traveller SIGNS IT. These
forms are available from STA Travel.
Electricity is 110/120 V and a two
pronged plug is used - the same as
the USA.
There are few serious health concerns
with travel to Hawaii - no malaria,
cholera or yellow fever, however it’s
best to consult the experts before
traveling. And you can drink water
directly from the tap. Hawaii has no
land snakes but has its fair share of
mosquitoes and centipedes which
can give a nasty bite.