Buta to Paisley An ongoing Journey

Transcription

PAISLEY
“A JOURNEY- FROM
AGES ACROSS BORDERS”
Pavni Gupta
Associate Professor
Pearl Academy, Delhi, India
7/28/2014
7/28/2014
Pearl Academy, Delhi
1
Content:
1
Background of the Study
2-3
2
Introduction of Paisley
4-9
3
Inspiration of the research
10-12
4
Inception of Paisley
13-47
•
•
•
•
•
Introduction and History
Development of the motif
Journey of Paisley
Change with demand
Evidence of the motif
5
Paisley’s temporary demise
48-52
6
The design values of paisleys and its widespread universal
acceptance- Visual Journey
53-73
7
Paisley the Inspirational source for designers- Visual Journey
74-107
8
Views about the motif
108-112
9
Wrapping up
113-115
10
Bibliography
116
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Background …..
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• The session will portray the journey of a “Paisley – A motif”
from ages across borders. This paper is an effort towards
emphasizing the design value of Butta or Paisley.
• The study aims to highlight the visual appeal of Indian butta
and its demand in international market. Paisley after being in
vogue for centuries has still not completed the journey; in fact
designers are looking forward for more experimentation for
providing further scope.
• The paisley is globally experimented and explored to suit each
and every product from garments to home furnishing to
accessories. The session will visually demonstrate some
experimentation done in this area.
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What is Paisley…..
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Paisley – A motif* Intensively used in
Indian Traditional
Embroideries like
Kashmir, Chikankari
etc.
* Inspired by nature,
fruits and dry fruits
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Zalakdozi
embroidered cushion
cover
Inspired by Mango
Shape
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Sojni Embroidery
silk kurta
Inspired by Almond
shape
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Embroidered Jaal with
buteh
Inspired by pine and
palm tree leaf
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Embroidered buteh
Inspired by Walnut shape
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Inspiration of the research……
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“The Paisley is an important part of Indian
Traditional Craft and culture. It has gone
through numerous changes and formation
to be the part of race. The designers are still
using the motif worldwide.”
by Ms. Jasleen Dhameja, a well known curator of Indian textiles and
author of renowned books, (cited on 5th June 2011 in a conference on Traditional Textiles
of India at Delhi)
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12
• The words by Ms. Jasleen Dhameja developed
the curiosity to know more and more about
Paisley. I started investigating and reading the
history and found the visual changes of the
motif across ages and countries.
• The presentation also talk about the intensive
use of paisley by the designers worldwide.
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Inception of Paisley……
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14
Introduction and History…….
• Boteh is a Persian word meaning ‘bush’,
‘shrub' or ‘flower bud’.
• In Kashmir the name used to describe this
motif is buta or buti.
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• According to the historians and researchers –
Sultan Zein-al- Aabedin brought the buta motif
from Iran to India in Kashmir around 15th
Century- staring point of journey of buta
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Development of the motif:
• The earliest design on Kashmir
shawls- 16th to 18th century
• A single flowering plant
7/28/2014
Pearl Pearl
Academy
Academy,
of Fashion,
Delhi Delhi
17
• This design gradually developed into an
upright spray of flowers
• By around 1800 became the stylized
cone-shaped motif known as the boteh,
which we now tend to call the Paisley
pine.
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Pearl Pearl
Academy
Academy,
of Fashion,
Delhi Delhi
18
The shape of the motif changed
over the decades, from a small
squat cone to a very elongated
curve.
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Pearl Pearl
Academy
Academy,
of Fashion,
Delhi Delhi
20
Some of the evidences from Victoria
and Albert Museum of development
of butta are :
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7/28/2014
Pearl Pearl
Academy
Academy,
of Fashion,
Delhi Delhi
22
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According to John Irwin former curator of Indian Collection at Victoria
and Albert Museum
“The floral butta motif became harder and
formally stylized in the mid-18th century, and
westerners eventually dubbed the design
"cone" or "pine". Paisley later became part
of the vocabulary when wool shawls crafted
in Paisley, Scotland (close copies of Kashmir
patterns) took off.”
7/28/2014
Pearl Pearl
Academy
Academy,
of Fashion,
Delhi Delhi
27
Journey of Buta…..
• The examples of the work travelled to
Britain by the East India Company in the
mid 18th century.
7/28/2014
Pearl Pearl
Academy
Academy,
of Fashion,
Delhi Delhi
28
• Shawls quickly
became the
vogue
• But were in
short supply
and very
expensive.
Mother and Two Children by A E Chalon, c. 1812. (Courtesey of
the Geoffrey Museum)
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29
Imitated by British
textile manufacturers
who sold them for a
tenth of the price.
The birth of Paisley
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• The Indian butta motif was redeveloped to
go with the European taste.
The result was dramatic.
• Imitated Indian shawls became so popular
that the weaving centers in Edinburgh,
Norwich and Paisley were swamped with
orders.
7/28/2014
Pearl Pearl
Academy
Academy,
of Fashion,
Delhi Delhi
31
• The word ‘paisley’ become famous as the
name of the teardrop shape pattern.
• It is possibly less well known as the name of
a town in Scotland, located about 11 miles
from Glasgow.
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• During the early
19th century,
Paisley (Scotland)
became famous
for its Paisley
Shawls
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Machine-Woven Wool Shawls
7/28/2014
Pearl Pearl
Academy
Academy,
of Fashion,
Delhi Delhi
35
For seventy years the patterned
shawls remained fashionable, and
the term ‘paisley’ became
renowned throughout the world.
7/28/2014
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• Rich, abstract, curvilinear patterns from
Mughal Art, have continued
7/28/2014
Pearl Pearl
Academy
Academy,
of Fashion,
Delhi Delhi
37
By 1860, Paisley could produce
shawls with fifteen colors
It was still only a quarter of the colors in the multicolor paisleys then still being imported from
Kashmir
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Change with demand……
• In later centuries paisley pattern was being
printed, rather than woven
• Being able to purchase printed paisley rather
than woven paisley brought the price of the
costly pattern down and added to its
popularity.
• The places of manufacture for printed paisley
were Britain and France.
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Printed Shawl on
wool base with
diamond twill
weave
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Printed shawl on silk with geometric twist
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Printing silk stole
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• The Industrial Revolution put the price of woven shawls
within reach of every English lady.
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• Printed Butta became so popular that
European manufacturers stopped weaving
altogether, started using copper rolls to print
the designs on a cotton plain weave.
• Moving towards the wider world of
patterned fabrics, paisley took its first steps
into the mass market.
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• Ironically, it proved to be successful as a
printed design that, by the later 19th
century, even Indian Textile producers had
taken up the habit of printing paisley designs
on cotton.
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45
Evidence of the motif……
• Paisley was
heavily
identified with
psychedelic
style and the
interest in
Indian
spirituality and
culture
brought about
by The Beatles
to India in
1968.
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• Also, Fender Guitars made a Pink Paisley version of their
Telecaster guitar, by sticking paisley wallpaper onto the
guitar bodies.
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At the 2010 Winter Olympics, Azerbaijan's team sported colorful
paisley trousers.
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PAISLEY’S TEMPORARY DEMISE…….
The paisley shawl showed a decline in early
1870’s because of various reasons:
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One of which is that by
1870 a woven Jacquard
shawl could be bought
for £1.
Like any other luxury
good, once the shawls
were inexpensive
enough that every
woman could afford to
own at least one; no
one wanted to wear
them
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• The introduction of the
“bustle” in the late 1860s
also caused paisley’s
decline.
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• Only in the
classic case of
fashion trickledown, upperclass ladies
draped
themselves
with Kashmir
shawls precisely
to reach to the
market status.
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• In Britain the paisley
pattern represented in
Celtic art; declined in
Europe
under
the
influence of the Roman
Empire.
• However in India the motif continued to flourish in
many different forms. It was first used on shawls in
Kashmir.
• Now it is all over the world………
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THE DESIGN VALUES OF PAISLEYS AND
ITS WIDESPREAD UNIVERSAL
ACCEPTANCE
The paisley is globally experimented and explored
to suit each and every product from garments to
home furnishing to accessories. Few visual
examples are given in the following slides.
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Embroidered buties.
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Paisley printed bags
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Book Lockets with Paisley Design
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Traditional nose ring adorn with buta design
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Bridal wedding gloves with paisley motif
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Lee Hiller Designs-Paisley Motif - Mouse Pads
from London.
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Jim Miner Tattoo -widely using Indian motifs.
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• Paisley pattern is also making its space in food
products like cake decoration.
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Paisley
increase the
appetite
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• The men’s clothing also shows a
wide use of the Buta motif.
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The pattern is quite famous for printing and especially for silk
stoles and scarf's.
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Paisley in
garments
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Henna designs with paisley motifs are globally in vogue.
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Paisley is an important part of men’s clothing so one
of the example of accessories is Cufflinks
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THE MOTIF ALSO INSPIRED MANY
NATIONAL AND INTERNATIONAL
DESIGNERS
They are experimenting with the motif to give
it a new dimension and exploring the hidden
uniqueness which is yet to surface in its prime
form.
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The paisley has evolved with time and
became an integral and important part of
interior designing and home furnishing.
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• Dark paisleyby Lars
Contzen, a
German designer
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Paisley Pattern Mini
Buffet from IMAX,
an everything
furniture store from
US.
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Beaded and
sequined pillow
with paisley motif
in silk dupion by
the designer Trish
Mahtani at Rang
Home Décor,
South England.
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79
Home linen collection by Ludmila Crigan a well known textile
designer from US.
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80
Laura Olivia’s home and lifestyle collection
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81
Margo , a rug by Thomas O’Brien is hand woven in Nepal of
wool and silk
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82
Shower curtain by John
Robshaw Textiles; New York
working mostly with Indian fabrics
and motifs
http://www.johnrobshaw.co
m/
7/28/2014
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Paisley print
upholstery by
Lamshop; Third
Avenue, New York
http://shoplamshop.c
om./LAMSHOP/Welco
me.html
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Kerala Paisley
wallpaper by
Schumacher, Interior
design firm, New York.
http://www.fschumach
er.com/
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Paisley screen from Belle
Escape; famous for Vintage style
furniture and furnishing
http://www.belleescape.com/
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The Vintage Maroon Dot with Tiny Paisley Designs Tie from
Pierre Cardin
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ETRO the brand in men’s wear from Milano is known in
the fashion industry as the king of paisley.
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Paisley shirts by
ETRO
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• ETRO’s
men’s
swim
trunks
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Foot ware designed as the part of Fifthavenue spring
collection used paisley as the main motif.
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• Preeti S
Kapoor’s ethnic
suits
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Women’s
garments with
Paisley Design
from ZARA apparel
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Emanuel
Ungaro
paisley jacket
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The examples of beautifully
woven and embroidered
paisley by Abaya Collection
from Dubai.
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Traditional Sherwani’s
from Dewan Sahib, India
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Murphy dress by
Stella McCartney from
summer 2012, Online
shopping
http://www.stellamccartn
ey.com/default/
7/28/2014
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Alchemilla
cottonpolyester by
ETRO for
Clarence
House
http://www.clare
ncehouse.com
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Elegant use of
the motif by
Anamika Khanna
at Delhi Couture
Week 2010
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Ritu Kumar’s ethnic women wear
7/28/2014
Pearl Pearl
Academy
Academy,
of Fashion,
Delhi Delhi
102
Traditional buta design used in a contemporary way by
Sabyasachi Mukherjee, at Delhi Couture Week
7/28/2014
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Shyamal & Bhumika Fall Collection
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Dinner plate
by French Bull based
on theme RAJ; online
store – melamine
designers
http://www.frenchbull.c
om/our_store/dinnerplates/Raj-Dinner-Plate
7/28/2014
105
Printed Paisley Mugs by Rachael Ray
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Paisley wastepaper
basket by Marye-Kelley
Home décor, Houston, TX
http://www.marye-kelley.com/
7/28/2014
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Boysenberry umbrela
by Vera Bradley; Beach
Collection.
http://www.verabradley.com
7/28/2014
108
VIEWS ABOUT THE MOTIF……….
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109
Trend Alert at Home: Paisley;
from Elledecor
March 2012
By Amy Preiser
“I bought this blouse in
New York City —the
paisley is a great take on
the pattern play that I'm
loving in home decor
prints now, and these
three colors make a
perfect combination!”
—Designer Jenn Feldman a Los-Angeles
based Interior Decorator
7/28/2014
110
“I love a global feel in my
home, so the block-print
look of these paisley
panels from Z Gallerie fits
my living room perfectly.
And when I’m on the go, I
have my paisley scarf—it
always makes me feel
chic.”
—Designer Kim Myles, the CEO of an
interior design firm
7/28/2014
111
“Oversized paisley print on my new couch feels
feminine and I loved it against my charcoal walls”
—Neha Gandhi, Deputy Editor of Refinery 29 (online fashion magazine)
7/28/2014
112
“The paisley print is
fun, colourful and just
says "party“. No one
can be a wallflower
when wearing paisley.”
—Brie Dyas, Editor of Stylelist
Home
7/28/2014
113
Wrapping up…….
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114
• Paisley -A point of inspiration- A trend is based on
what usually gains acceptance and sells
• Paisley’s connection with the design industry has
enhanced general enthusiasm for the motif.
• The whole range of products available with paisleys
is indeed omnipresent
• The delicate form of the motif has taken its stand in
every products
7/28/2014
115
Paisley or buta after being in vogue for
centuries has still not completed the
journey; in fact designers are looking
forward for more experimentation for
providing further scope.
7/28/2014
116
Bibliography:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Irwin, J. (1973). The Kashmir Shawl. 2nd edition Victoria and Albert Museum.
Irwin, J. (1980). Shawls: A Study in Indo-European Influences. H.M. stationary office London (reprint of
1955), page- 32-60
Frank. A. (1986) The Kashmir Shawl. The Antique Collectors Club Ltd , England
Dhamija. J. (Ed.), Asian Embroideries. D.K. Agencies (P) Ltd. First Published 2004, Craft Council of India
Levi. S.M. (1987). The cashmere Shawls. Dryad Press Ltd 1987. Pages- 20-42
David. R. (1993), Pictorial History of Paisley Publisher: Alloway Publishing Ltd
Mehta J. R. (1970). Paisley Design- Masterpiece of Indian Textiles. Calico Museum P.94.
Gregory. M. (1989). Paisley Designs. Dover Pictorial Archive, Publication Date: April 1, 1989
Skinner. T. (1989), Paisley: A Visual Survey of Pattern and Color published by Gibbs Smith
Kashmir to Paisley: The Metropolitan Museum of Artis collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve, and
extend access to The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin. Online Link http://www.jstor.org/
Andrews, M. (1986). Beyond the Fringe, Shawls of Paisley Design. Victoriana Magazine. Online link
http://www.victoriana.com/library/paisley/shawl.html
Azzarito. A. Past and Present Paisley. Retrieved on 20 th May 2014 from blog Design Sponge. The official
website is http://www.designsponge.com/2010/04/past-present-paisley-part-1
Andrews, M. (1979). Kashmir and shawls of paisley design. Retrieved from the blog http://www.megandrews.com/articles/article.php
Paisley pattern collection at paisley museum. Retrieved on 21 s t May 2014 from
http://www.paisley.org.uk/paisley-history/paisley-pattern/
All visuals used in the paper have been sourced from the mentioned websites.
7/28/2014
117
Thank you
For any query contact at:
pavni.gupta@pearlacademy.com
7/28/2014
118

Buta to Paisley An ongoing Journey

Transcription

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