eco ir jadid 13.qxd
Transcription
eco ir jadid 13.qxd
IRAN Introduction Islamic Republic of 132 From the 6th century BC until 1935, the country that today is Iran was known as Persia. The name, Iran, derives from an ancient term "a-eer-yanem va-ee-jo" in Avesta, the holy book of the Zoroastrians, meaning 'the land of the Aeers'. This term refers to the plateau upon which the Indo-Iranians, a branch of the Aryans, settled. By the passing of time, the term "Aeer" changed to "Er" and later to "Ir", and so the official name of the country during the Sassanid period (400-600 AD) was Iranshatr or Iranshahr. "Shatr" or "Shahr" means country, and so, Iranshahr meant "the country of the Nobles." Iran comprises of a land area of over 1.6 million Sqm (the 17th country in the world by land area). Located in the south west of Asia, Iran is one the middle-east countries. Lying below the northern temperate zone, between latitudes 25 degree north and 39 degree 47' north and between longitude 44 degree 02' east and 63 degree 20' east, the country borders Turkmenistan, Caspian, Azerbaijan and Armenia on the North, Afghanistan and Pakistan on the East, Oman Sea and the Persian Gulf on the south, and Iraq and Turkey on the West. It also shares 740 km Caspian Sea coast line with Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan and Russia. Iran was a constitutional monarchy, but turned to an Islamic Republic as desired by the people of Iran in 1979. Totally, Iran has 8,731 km of border, of which 2,700 km consist of water borders and 6,031 km for land borders. The highest point in Iran is Mount Damavand, which is 5,610m high. The longest river is the Karun River with a length of 890 km (the only navigable river). The largest lake is the Orumiyeh Lake with an area of 4,868 km and the largest Island is Qeshm with an area of 1,491 square km. Iran has a very colorful and diversified landscape, ranging from high plateaus to mountain ranges and to plains bordering the Persian Gulf and Caspian Sea. The dominant landscape color is a delicate brown, like the coat of a dear, but the countryside can vary enormously according to the altitude and vegetation. 133 Introduction Islamic Republic of IRAN Country Profile 134 Country Profile Country's Official Name Islamic Republic of Iran Flag Description Three equal horizontal bands of green, white, and red fill the flag from top to bottom. The national emblem, a stylized representation of the word Allah in the shape of a tulip (a symbol of martyrdom), is centered in red within the white band; Allah-O Akbar (God is Great) in white Arabic script is repeated 11 times along the bottom edge of the green band and 11 times along the top edge of the red band. Useful Links Cultural Heritage, Handicrafts & Tourism Organization http://www.ichto.ir/ (English) Government The form of Iran's government is that of an Islamic Republic, endorsed by the people of Iran on the basis of their longstanding belief in sovereignty of truth and in Quranic justice. The people solidified their support through the referendum of the 29th and 30th March, 1979 and through an affirmative majority vote of 98.2% of the eligible voters, which was held after the victorious Islamic Revolution led by the late Imam Khomeini. Executive Branch Chief of State: Supreme Leader (Supreme Leader is appointed for life by the Assembly of Experts; Assembly of Experts are elected by popular vote for an eightyear term). Head of Government President Cabinet Council of Ministers selected by the president with legislative approval Three Oversight Bodies 1) Assembly of Experts, a popularly elected body of 86 religious scholars, is constitutionally charged with determining the succession of the Supreme Leader (based on his qualifications in the field of jurisprudence and commitment to the principles of the Islamic revolution), reviewing his performance, etc. 135 2) Expediency Council or the Council for the Discernment of Expediency is a policy advisory and implementation board consisting of over 40 permanent members representing all major government factions and includes the heads of the three branches of government, and the clerical members of the Council of Guardians (see next); Permanent members are appointed by the Supreme Leader for five-year terms; temporary members, including Cabinet members and Majlis committee chairmen, are selected when issues under their jurisdiction come before the Expediency Council; the Expediency Council exerts supervisory authority over the executive, judicial, and legislative branches and resolves legislative issues on which the Majlis and the Council of Guardians disagree and since 1989 has been used to advise national religious leaders on matters of national policy; in 2005 the Council's powers were expanded, to act as a supervisory body for the government. 3) Council of Guardians of the Constitution or "Council of Guardians" or "Guardians Council" is a 12-member Islamic Republic of IRAN Country Profile 136 board made up of six clerics chosen by the Supreme Leader and six jurists recommended by the judiciary and approved by the Majlis for six-year terms; this Council determines whether proposed legislation is both constitutional and faithful to Islamic law, vets candidates for suitability, and supervises national elections. Legislative Branch Islamic Consultative Assembly or Majlis (290 seats; members elected by popular vote to serve four-year terms). Judicial Branch The Supreme Court and the four-member High Council of the Judiciary have a single head and some overlapping responsibilities. Together, they supervise the enforcement of all laws and establish judicial and legal policies. Lower courts include a special clerical court, a revolutionary court, and a special administrative court. Official Language & Local Dialects Persian and Persian dialects 58%, Azari and Turkic dialects 26%, Kurdish 9%, Luri 2%, Balochi 1%, Arabic 1%, others 2%. Capital City Tehran is the capital city of Iran and the heart of the Tehran province. It is situated on the northern fringe of the great central plateau and at the foot of the southern slope of the impressive Alborz mountain chain.The Tehran province has several archaeological sites, which clearly indicate settlements dating back to several thousand years. Until 300 years ago, Ray was one of the most prominent cities of the province. However, the city of Tehran surpassed Ray and gained its special status as the capital of Iran during the reign of the Qajar dynasty (1795-1925), because of the development that occurred there at the time. Since then, it has been the political, cultural, economic, and commercial nucleus of Iran. During the past 200 years, Tehran has been home to many reputed scholars, writers, poets and artists. The Tehran province enjoys considerable capabilities in terms of the different dimensions of population, employment, production, agriculture, natural resources and infrastructures. Major Cities: Tehran, Esfahan, Shiraz, Mashhad, Tabriz Name of the Provinces 1.Ardabil, 2.West Azarbaijan, 3. East Azarbaijan, 4.Bushehr, 5.Chahar Mahal Ethnic Groups Persian 51%, Azari 24%, Gilaki and Mazandarani 8%, Kurd 7%, Arab 3%, Lur 2%, Baloch 2%, Turkmen 2%, others 1%. Country's total area 1,648,195 million sq km (the seventeenth largest country in the world) Population 72,874,500 (2009) Climate Iran's plateau climate is relatively dry, and despite the country's location in the world's dry climate belt, the Alborz and Zagros mountain ranges prevent the entrance of humid streams from the Caspian and Mediterranean seas into Iran. The country's span across 25 and 40 degree latitude, and the varying height levels allow for a diversity of climates. In the northwest, winters are cold with heavy snowfall and subfreezing temperatures. Spring and fall are relatively mild while summers are dry and hot. In the south, winters are mild and summers are very hot, having average daily temperatures that exceed 38° C (100° F) in July. On the Khuzestan plain, summer heat is accompanied by high humidity. Holidays & National Days March 20: The Nationalization of the Oil Industry March 21: Eid-e Nowrooz (New Year's Day) April 1: Islamic Republic Day April 2: Nature Day (13th day after the New Year, culmination of the Nowrooz festivities) June 4: Death of Imam Khomeini (1989) June 5: Revolt of June 5, 1963 February 11: Victory of the Islamic Revolution Holidays according to the Lunar Calendar (varying dates): Tasu'a and Ashura of Imam Hussein Arba'een of Imam Hussein Death of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) and Martyrdom of Imam Hassan Mojtaba Martyrdom of Imam Reza Birth of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) and Imam Jafar Sadegh Martyrdom of Fatima, Daughter of Prophet Muhammad (PBUH)& Wife of Imam Ali Birth of Imam Ali Mission Receiving of Prophet Muhammad(PBUH) Birth of Imam Mahdi Martyrdom of Imam Ali Eid-ul Fitr (End of Ramadan) Martyrdom of Imam Jafar Sadegh Eid ul-Adha (Sacrifice) Eid-al Ghadeer All governmental departments and most business centers throughout the country are closed on Fridays. In the Tehran province, all governmental departments are closed on Thursday as well. Time Zone: GMT +3:30 137 va Bakhtiari, 6.Esfahan, 7.Fars, 8.Gilan, 9.Golestan, 10.Hamadan, 11.Hormozgan, 12.Ilam, 13.Kerman, 14.Kermanshah, 15.Southern Khorasan, 16.Khorasan Razavi, 17.Northern Khorasan, 18.Khuzestan, 19.Kohgiluyeh va Buyer Ahmad, 20.Kordestan, 21.Lorestan, 22.Markazi, 23.Mazandaran, 24.Qazvin, 25.Qom, 26.Semnan, 27.Sistan va Baluchestan, 28.Tehran, 29.Yazd, 30.Zanjan Islamic Republic of IRAN Silk Road 138 Silk Road The Silk Road was created many centuries ago for the trading of silk and other goods between the eastern and western countries. It also became an important route for the transfer of ideas, languages, literature, science, and technology. Iran, heir to the ancient traditions of Persia, was located at the crossroads, the center of the route. As a result, the road to Persia became a symbol of humanity's desire to travel, to explore, and to learn. The unique position - geographically and culturally - along the ancient Silk Road providedPersia with a major role in the world The Silk Road connected the centers of previous Iranian civilizations that were located along the route, and thus, the histories of the Silk Road and Iran were intertwined. At the beginning of the sixth century BC, the trade route started in Babylon, from where it passed through Opis/Ctesiphone (Baghdad), Ecbatana (Hamadan), and modern Saveh - the site of Marco Polo's stopover to see the tomb of the three Magi who had visited Jesus of Nazareth (Jesus Christ). Silkwould reach the markets of Persia and Rome through this long route, and thus, the road came to be known as the Silk Road. It stretched from the western gates of a Chinese city, which is now called Hsian, in the Shanxi province, and passed through the southern part of the Gobi Desert to reach western Turkistan (Kazakhstan).Then, it passed through Sin Kiang (Xinjiang) and Kashgar to reach Ceyhan in Transoxania (Mawara-an-nahr). After passing through major cities of the time such as Samarkand, Bukhara, and Merv, then the Silk Road passed through Fergana Valley (Uzbekistan), Ishkashim, Kunduz (Afghanistan), and reached the Iranian border. In Iran, the Silk Road connected the cities of Tous, Neyshabur, Damghan, Gorgan and Rey before it entered Qazvin. One of its branches went toward Azarbaijan and Trabzon, and the other branch ran through Hamadan, Baghdad, Mosul, Antakya (Antioch or Kappadokia), and Sardis (near Izmir) to reach Istanbul and then Rome via the Mediterranean Sea. The Road also connected India to Tous via Peshawar, Khyber, Kabul, Kandahar and Herat. A vast part of connected the Silk Road to the sea and to the great rivers in Transoxania and Mesopotamia through land routes. In western Iran, the Road connected Kermanshah to Tabriz and Tbilisi (Georgia). Parallel to this route, one of the Road's branches connected Hamadan to Ardabil via Tabriz. In central Iran, towards the north, Ray (which was connected to northern regions through side roads in the Alborz Mountains) reached Siraf, an important Iranian port in the Persian Gulf at that time via Kashan, Esfahan and Shiraz. Located in the southeastern area of the Caspian Sea, Damghan was the linking point of the route to Urganch in Khorezm (Turkmenistan). The route joined the road to Neyshabur. Another road located in the eastern part of Iran connected Neyshabur to Herat, Zaranj, Kerman and Shiraz. Diverting the route to another direction, a path from Merv through Termez and Samarkand served as another starting point for the Silk Road in the Far East. Along these routes there were Caravanserais known as Rabats and Iwans, where travelers could rest, obtain their necessities for the journey ahead, unload their commodities, and conduct trade and business. In order to give bearings and directions to travelers, domes had been built which served as efficient reference points in snowy and stormy weathers. 139 this route was under the control of the Sogdian and the Uighur caravans. Some signs dating to 2000 BC point to the knowledge of silk production, however, evidence of silk during the Achaemenan era is limited to the Chinese silk that reached Iran on the way westward. To ensure the safety of the silk trade and the caravans, King Darius the Great established military checkpoints on the trade routes. A route between the city of Shush and Sardis was built as a continuation of the Silk Road to boost the trade of silk between the eastern and western countries. The Silk Road continued as an important route for the exchange of commodities between various countries during the Parthian era. In this period, Iran, under the Parthian Empire, signed the first trade agreement with China, which was then ruled by the Han dynasty. The Parthians made significant profits from the customs duties levied on the goods transported on the segment of the road that stretched from the Euphrates River to Turkistan (Kazakhstan). The Parthian dynasty, which was in favor of expanding thetrade relations along the Road, closely supervised and secured the routes, and one of its Middle Iranian languages,Sogdian, was the trade language spokenthrough much of the Silk Road's history. During its Golden Age, in the first millennium, this fabled network was an early link between the world's major cultures Greek, Roman, Persian, Indian and Chinese. In the post-Islamic period, new roads Islamic Republic of IRAN Useful Information 140 Useful Information Best Time to Visit the Country Being a vast country, Iran has regions with differing temperatures during a given period of time, offering different climates and conditions Depending on the season and the areas one plans to visit, the weather can be humid, dry, hot or cold. In the northern coastal areas of the Caspian Sea, the climate is mild and humid. The southern parts and the Persian Gulf region have a hotter climate than Central Iran. Northwestesrn Iran is about 10 - 15 degrees Celsius cooler than the rest of the country. The north region of the country, especially, the Alborz foots, are a popular destination in the spring. Iran's southern regions provide a pleasant spring-weather getaway during the winter.. At the same time, in Fars & Esfahan, the cold, the snow, and the torrent change the faces of the cities. The weather of most of Iran is hot during the summer.So, one can enjoy winter and summer sports during the same period within a few hours. More accurately, from mid-April to early June and from late September to early November are the best times to enjoy the matchless beauty of the country. Visa Regulations A visa is necessary for entry into Iran for a stipulated period of time for economic, commercial, cultural and industrial purposes. It is issued by the Embassy of the Islamic Republic of Iran for foreign nationals, after receiving the approval from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. The authorized duration of stay is usually up to 30 days. Types of Visa E-Visa Tourists can apply for the Iranian EVisa through the I.R.I. Foreign Ministry's website: http://evisa.mfa.gov.ir:7780/mfa/Controll er. After filling out the application form and entering the required details, users will be given a reference code to pursue their visa issuance. Once approved, applicants can choose to receive their visa either at Tehran's Imam Khomeini International Airport or at an official agency in their home country. Free Industrial & Commercial Zones This visa is issued for two-week stays at the ports of entry to the Free Trade and Industrial Zone of Iran (Kish Island), and it may be extended for up to six months at the request of the authorities of these areas. Note: Foreign nationals, who intend to travel to other parts of the country, should submit their applications to the office of the representative of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in the area.The application will be reviewed, and the visa will be issued if approved within 48 hours. Work Permit Visa The visa will be issued for foreign nationals who intend to work in Iran. Iranian employers must obtain work permits in advance from the relevant authorities. Entry/ Transit Visa for Drivers Carrying Cargo This visa is issued to foreign drivers Pilgrimage Visa A pilgrimage visa is issued to foreign tourists who wish to visit sacred sites and shrines in Iran. Tourist Visa The tourist visa is issued to foreign nationals who are interested in travelling to Iran individually or collectively to visit the country or their relatives. The applicants must fill-out an application form in black ink and bring their passport with one photo (for women with scarf) to the consulate. The process starts when the completed documents are submitted and takes about three weeks. Transit Visa A transit visa is issued for a limited period of time to foreigners for the purpose of passing through Iran to a third country. Student Visa A student visa will be issued to foreign nationals who intend to study in the Islamic Republic of Iran. To obtain the visa, applicants must take the authorization number from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Iran. Press Visa The press visa applies to foreign nationals who wish to travel to Iran as correspondents representing print or electronic media for news coverage of events. Diplomatic & Service Visa Such a visa applies to dignitaries, governmental officials and foreign nationals who wish to travel to Iran either in connection with their official visit (invitation by Iran) or for the purpose of taking over their permanent/temporary diplomatic/administrative assignment in a diplomatic/consular mission or an international organization. Visa Facilities for ECO Member States Citizens of the Republic of Turkmenistan can travel to Iran for one month without a visa, having only their passports. According to the bill issued by the Board of Ministers, citizens of the some countries, including the Central Asian ECO Member States: Azerbaijan, Turkmenistan, Turkey, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan, can receive a seven-day visa in less than two hours at the Imam Khomeini and Mehrabad airports in Tehran as well as at the airports of Mashhad, Shiraz, Esfahan, and Tabriz. For more information please visit: www.mfa.gov.ir Passport Loss In case your passport is lost, immediately report to the nearest police station. Then, go to NAJA's General Department for Foreign Citizens for receiving your exit permit. Tel: +98 21 88800000 Customs Regulations The government holds the authority over the customs affairs in Iran. Travelers and tourists' importing and exporting goods are duty-free unless 141 carrying cargo to Iran or other countries. For these cases, it is necessary to coordinate in advance with the Diplomatic Missions of the Islamic Republic of Iran. Islamic Republic of IRAN Useful Information 142 they are considered as commercial commodities. A. Arriving Travelers When arriving in Iran, one should receive a customs declaration sheet, which is distributed in the customs hall, and fill it out, and submit it to the customs' evaluators and inspectors.The following goods are considered as a tourists' personal belongings, and their import intoIran is duty-free: Personal jewelry, personal cameras, non-professional video cameras and other portable video units, binoculars, portable musical instruments, portable radios and cassette players, portable PC's, first aid boxes, camping tents with its basic tools, sporting goods, small boats of less than 5.5 meters, ordinary water and skiing tools, tennis rackets, mountaineering tools, diving tools, bicycles, golf tools, and other similar goods, baby carriages and wheel chairs for the disabled. Note: Sending up to 80 dollars in foreign goods by post to Iran is duty-free for each person. B. Departing Travelers When leaving Iran, one should fill the customs declaration sheet and submit it to the customs' evaluators and inspectors. Besides the goods one brings to Iran, the following non-commercial goods are permitted duty-free: a carpet or two rugs of utmost 12 sq. meters, handicrafts, musical instruments, industrial products made in Iran, foreignmade industrial products of up to 160 US dollars value, dried fruits and gifts, ready-made gold without a gem of up to 150 grams, ready-made silver without a gem of up to 3 kg, and 3 kg of caviar along with the purchase note given by the airport's shop. Import and export of the following goods is forbidden: 1. Alcoholic beverages 2. Gambling tools 3. Firearms or any other kind of weapon, and explosives 4. Narcotic drugs 5. Pornographic publications, pictures, movies, photos, and any other material which is against Iran's national and religious rules 6. Tourists and citizens of Commonwealth countries, who are traveling to Iran, can export allowed goods equivalent to the amount they have declared to the Iranian bank . For those who possess the qualifications, exporting goods of up to $1,000 requires no declaration to the bank and neither does it need the currency declaration. 7. Sending goods abroad by post is free if the goods are not considered commercial commodities. These goods should not be among the forbidden items, e.g. antique goods, genuine works of art, manuscript books, gold coins and precious stones. Sending foreign products abroad by post should not exceed $160 for each person. Moreover, it is forbidden to send hand-woven carpets by post. For more information on the latest bills and executive bylaws in customs affairs, please visit: http://www.irica.gov.ir/EIndex.aspx (Iran's Customs Administration Office) How to get there and away By Plane Most overseas travelers from Europe arrive in Iran by way of the Mehrabad airport in Tehran. Currently, most flights Iran Air Offices around the ECO Region Ashgabat: Baku: Istanbul: Karachi: Tashkent: www.iranair.com 510641-2 9475540 2250255-7 515001, 516293 504444, 591374 By Train Iran's railroads area revitalization of the Silk Road, which connects the north, south, west, and east of the country. Tourists can enjoy traveling and can banefit from the cargo transportation and the transit services provided by the following routes: European countries and Caucasia by the Tehran-Tabriz railroad, Central Asian countries by the Tehran-Mashhad-Sarakhs railroad, and the countries in the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean regions by the TehranBandar Abbas railroad. "RAJA" passenger trains provide regular services from Tehran to Turkey, Syria and Turkmenistan. Other routes include: Route No. 1: Tehran-Tabriz-Julfa: 884 kilometers, continued to Nakhjavan, Azerbaijan. Route No. 2: Tehran-Tabriz-Razi: 958 kilometers, continued to Turkey. Route No. 3: Tehran-Bandar AbbasTurkman: 461 kilometers, continued to Turkmenistan. Route No. 4: Tehran-MashhadSarakhs: 1,047 kilometers, continued to Turkmenistan. Route No. 5: Tehran-Bandar Imam Khomeini (Imam Khomeini Port): 927 kilometers, continued to Persian Gulf region. Route No. 6: Tehran-Bandar Abbas: 1,386 kilometers, continued to Persian Gulf and the Gulf of Oman. Iran's Railroad Transit Lines 1. Bandar Abbas-Sarakhs-MervMoscow 2. Bandar Abbas-Sarakhs-MervAlmaty-Beijing 3. Bandar Abbas -Julfa-Baku-Russia 143 from the Middle East, Central and South Asia land at the new Imam Khomeini International Airport based 37km southwest ofTehran, where all international flights will land within a fewyears.There are 70 smaller regional airports, for example, those in Shiraz, Mashhad, and Isfahan, and they have daily flights to many international destinations. Dubai has scheduled flights to many Iranian cities, including Tehran, Shiraz, Isfahan, Kerman, Lar, Mashhad, Tabriz, Kish Island, Bandar Abbas, Bushher, ZahedanFlights are operated by Emirates (for Tehran), Iran Air, Iran Aseman Airlines, Mahan Air and other Iranian companies. Fares are relatively cheap on Iranian carriers, depending on the destination and the time of booking. Iran Air connects Tehran with some of the major European cities as well as some of the destinations in Asia and the Middle East. European companies based in Tehran include British Airways, Lufthansa, KLM, Alitalia, Turkish Airlines, Austrian Airlines, Aeroflot and Air France. The Middle-Eastern airlines include: Saudi Arabian Airlines, Emirates, Syrian Airlines and Egypt Air. There are no direct flights from the U.S.A at present, but one could travel via either Europe or Dubai. Visitors from Australia or New Zealand can consider travelling via Dubai. Islamic Republic of IRAN Useful Information 144 4. Bandar Abbas -Razi-BucharestBelgrade 5. Bandar Abbas-Razi-AnkaraIstanbul-Sophia-Belgrade-BudapestVienna Trans-Asia train: The Trans-Asia train connects Tehran, Mashhad, Sarakhs, Mary, Farab, Bukhara, Tashkent, and Almaty. This route continues to Istanbul, Turkey. Traveling by this train to Iran, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Kirghizstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan requires a visa for each country. However, passing through these countries does not necessitate a transit visa. Tehran-Istanbul-Tehran train: The International passenger trains for Iran run weekly to/from Istanbul (Turkey), Damascus (Syria), and Quetta (Pakistan). The Istanbul service runs via Ankara, includes a ferry over Lake Van, crosses the Iranian border, and then stops at Tabriz before arriving in Tehran. The journey takes about 70 hours (3 nights travelling). The train includes couchettes and a dining car. The Syria service does not cross Iraq; it stopsat Aleppo before crossing the Turkish border, heads to Lake Van, and runs along a route similar to the Istanbul service. This journey takes 54 hours (2 nights travelling). Couchettes are available between Lake Van and Tehran, but the Syrian leg between Damascus and Lake Van contains only reclining seats. A dining car is at service occasionally. The Quetta-Zahedan line connects Pakistan and Iran by rail. There is no connection between the Zahedan railway and the rest of the Iranian Railway system, which means that one must take the bus or other transportation from Zahedan to Bam, the nearest railway. A train leaves twice each month from Quetta to Zahedan, and the journey takes 11 hours. By Sea Passengers can travel by sea to Iran via the Persian Gulf, the Sea of Oman, and the Caspian Sea. The significant ports of the Caspian Sea include Anzali, Astara, Nowshahr, Bandar Gaz, and Bandar Torkaman, which connect Iran to Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Russia and Azerbaijan. By Roads With more than 51,300km (31,800 miles) of paved roads and 490km (304 miles) of motorways, the road network is extensive. Tourists can travel from Turkey, Iraq, Turkmenistan, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Pakistan and Afghanistan to Iran. The two main roads, the A1 and A2, link the Iraqi and Pakistani borders and the Afghan and Turkish borders, respectively. Connective ways between the major cities and the country's main ways are asphalt paved and have good quality. You should drive from the right side and observe international regulations. Traffic flows on the right side of the road. By Bus One can find Seir-o-Safar agencies in Istanbul, Antalya and Ankara to buy cheap bus tickets for Tehran. Also, one can enter from Pakistan via the border crossing between Taftan (on the Pakistani side) and Zahedan (on the Iranian side) as long as one has a valid visa for Iran. One can NOT get a visa at the border.The overnight buses leave from Quetta, arriving in Taftan in the early morning. From there, one can hire a taxi to the border. Once across the Traveling Around By Air Iran Air runs services to Ahvaz, Esfahan, Kish, Mashhad, Shiraz, Tabriz, Tehran and Zahedan and other major cities. Aseman Air and Mahan Air also run services to the major cities. The vast size of Iran makes internal flights the most practical method of transport. By Train RAJA Trains run a fairly comprehensive internal rail network. Major intercity trains operate on five main regional routes: the Azarbaijan route (Tehran Jolfa), the Golestan route (Tehran Gorgan), the Hormozgan route (Tehran Bandar-e-Abbas), the Khorasan route (Tehran - Mashhad), and the Khuzetan route (Tehran - Khorramshahr). There are many locations in the mountains and the deserts, which can only be reached by rail. There are some air-conditioned cars, sleeping cars, and dining cars on many trains. For further details, please visit RAJA website: http://www.raja.ir/ By Bus Tehran has an extensive bus system. They are widespread, cheap and comfortable. The tickets are bought in advance at kiosks, and the intercity transportation in Iran is made by Benz and Volvo buses under an organization named "Cooperative." Central offices of these cooperatives in Tehran are located in the South, East, and West Terminals. South Terminal Tel: 550047-8 East Terminal Tel: 77864010 West Terminal Tel: 44659676 Subway & Tramway Subway and tramway transportation is possible mainly in Tehran for the time being. The three main tram (electrically driven buses) routes are: Imam Hussein Sq.-Depoy Sharq, Imam HusseinKhorasan, and Khorasan-Depoy Besat (from 06:00 to 22:00). The subway connects Tehran's easternmost and westernmost points and the southern and northern tips of the city. Taxi Taxis are available in all cities. The urban taxis (orange or green) carry several passengers at a time and are much cheaper than the private taxis. Unofficial taxis should be avoided; use only legitimate taxis or those ordered through legitimate agencies. In most cities, taximeters determine the fare, which is paid in Iran's currency, the Rial. owever, the taxis that are not equipped with taximeters do have fixed specified fares. Note: It is advised to inquire about the fare and reach an agreement with the driver before getting into a private or hired taxi. Car Rental It is available in most cities and from airports. An International Driving Permit is recommended but it is not a legal requirement. Personal insurance is required. 145 border, one needs to organize transportation to Zahedan where buses depart for the destinations to Eastern Iranian cities, such as Bam, Kerman and Yazd. Islamic Republic of IRAN Useful Information 146 Money Currency The Iranian Rial (IR) is the official currency of Iran; however, to save time, prices are mostly quoted in Tomans. Generally, written prices are given in Rials and prices quoted in conversation are in Tomans. To confuse shoppers, shopkeepers will often omit the denomination of high prices, so a person may be told a jar of coffee costs 2 Tomans (meaning 2,000 Tomans or IR. 20,000) and that a fine rug will cost 300 Tomans (meaning 3,000,000 Tomans or IR 30,000,000). In conversation, 1 Toman denotes IR 10,000. Most travelers spend the first few days of their trip coming to grips with this mind-boggling system, and money changers on the border may exploit this confusion. So, it is advised to use caution and toalways ask a shopkeeper or moneychanger if they are quoting a price in Rials or Tomans. Currency Exchange The main foreign currency in Iran is theUS Dollar and the Euro. However, the English Pound, Japanese Yen, Persian Gulf countries' Rial, Drachma and Dinar, as well as other foreign currencies are changeable to Iran's currency in the banks and exchange shops. It is recommended that money be changed to the US Dollar or Euro before arriving in Iran. After arrival, one can go to Melli Bank at the airport terminal and change the money to the Iranian Rial. This bank works 24 hours a day. Other currency branches of the Iranian banks, as well as the banks located in the hotels can do the changing. Authorized exchange shops do the changing as well. The "exchange rate" of the foreign currency to Iran's Rial in the banks is unanimous, so there is no discrepancy between the rates in the banks. The foreign currencies' official rates in Rial are announced in the banks daily. Note 1: It is highly recommended to not change money anywhere other than the banks and the authorized exchange shops. Note 2: It is highly recommended to keep the receipt of a monetary exchange until leaving the country. This receipt not only indicates the legality of a purchase, but also enables the exchange of extra Rials in the bank and the exchange of the desired currency. Obtaining Cash There is no limit to the amount of cash one can bring into the country. One can also go to one of the branches of the foreign currency banks in Iran during one's stay, and open a foreign currency bank account or change money to Iran's currency and receive traveler's checks. Credit Cards Presently, International credit cards are not accepted in Iran. For more information please call Melli Bank's Card Service Office: 33922690-1, 33900298, and 33912813. ATM card ATM cards will be issued for all international tourists and travelers at their request by the Iranian Bank branches located in Iran's international airports. The cards are accepted by all hotels, restaurants and shops equipped with POS sets. For more information please visit: http://en.itoa.ir/ 147 Currency Restrictions There is no restriction for entering any amount of foreign currencies into Iran. Afterdeclaring the amount of the foreign currencies to the clerk at the entrance spots, the clerk writes it in the passport. This is done to avoid facing any problem in the customs when taking currency or goods that were bought outside of the country. Safety & Security Iran is one of the most secure countries in the world. The Interior Ministry is responsible for maintaining domestic security, and the police are the executive arm of this Ministry. Uniform color and class The color of the police uniform is green (dark green). The traffic policemen wear a white hat. The color of the police cars is dark green, and the traffic policemen cars are white with a dark strip on the car body. In case of an emergency, one can go to the nearest police station or contact 110. Embassy telephone numbers Country Code: 0098 Embassy of Afghanistan,Tehran Tel: +98-51-97551, 99899 Fax: +98-51-44404 Embassy of Azerbaijan, Tehran Chancery: No.50, Aghdasiyeh Ave., Pasdaran Ave. Tel: +98-21-22280063 Fax: +98-21-22284929 Embassy of Kazakhstan, Tehran Chancery: No.4, Masjed St., Hedayat St., Darrus, Tel: +98-21-22565933, 22565371, 22565934 Fax: +98-21-22546400 Consulate of Kazakhstan, Mashhad No.11, Darmangah Sajad St. Doctora Cross Rd., Tel: +98-51-817585, 817576, 830547 Fax: +98-51-83465 Embassy of Kyrgyz Republic, Tehran Chancery: No.12, 5th Narenjestan, Northern Pasdaran Ave., Nou Bonyad Sq., Tel: +98-21-2281720, 2281730, 2287486, 2297729 Fax : 98-21-2297729, 2287486 Embassy of Pakistan, Tehran Chancery: Corner of 4th, Pakistan St., Beheshti Ave Tel: +98-21-88735600, 88735040, 88737151 Fax: +98-21-88735600 P.O.Box: 15875-3368 P.O.Box: 11365-4551 Chancery: Block No.1, Ahmad Etemad Zadeh Ave., Northern Jamalzadeh, Dr. Hossein Fatemi Ave. Tel: +98-21-66944888, 934334 Fax: +98-21-935154 Consulate General of Afghanistan, Mashhad Consulate General of Pakistan, Mashhad No.52/2, Do Shahid Alley, 3rd Esfand Sq., Imam Khomeini Ave., Opp. of Bagh-e-Melli, Imam Khomeini Ave., Islamic Republic of IRAN Useful Information 148 Tel: +98-51-29845 Fax: +98-51-29845 P.O.Box: 91375 - 1733 Consulate General of Pakistan, Zahedan Bazmju, Moghaddam Ave., Tel: +98-541-23389, 27787 Fax: +98-541-23389 Embassy of Turkey, Tehran Chancery: No.314, Ferdowsi Ave., Tel: +98-21-33115299,33118997 Fax: +98-21-33117928 P.O.Box: 11365-8758 Counsulate General of Turkey, Ourumiyeh No.30, Daneshkadeh Ave., Tel: +98-441-228970 Fax: +98-441-231800 Counsulate General of Turkey, Tabriz No.516, South Shariati Ave., Tel: +98-41-407590, 406791 Embassy of Turkmenistan, Tehran Chancery: No.39, 5th Golestan St., Pasdaran Ave., Tel: +98-21-22542178 Fax: +98-21-22580432 Counsulate General of Turkmenistan, Mashhad No.34, Consulgari St., 10-Day Sq., Tel: +98-51-47066 Fax: +98-51-99940 Embassy of Uzbekistan, Tehran Chancery: No.6, Nastaran Alley, Boostan St., Pasdaran Ave., Tel: +98-21-22299158,22299780 Fax: +98-21-22299158 Health A limited malaria risk exists from March to November in the rural areas of the provinces of Sistan-Baluchestan, Hormozgan, and Kerman (tropical part); in some areas north of the Zagros Mountains; and in the western and southwestern regions during the summer months. Resistance to chloroquine and sulfadoxine-pyrimethamine has been reported in the malignant falciparum strain. The recommended prophylaxis is chloroquine in the vivax risk areas; chloroquine plus proguanil in the falciparum risk areas. Food and Drink Piped water is normally chlorinated. Bottled mineral water is available and is advised for the first few weeks of the stay. Pasteurized milk is available; unpasteurized milk should be boiled. Powdered or canned milk is available and is advised, but make sure that it is reconstituted with pure water. Avoid dairy products which are likely to have been made from unboiled milk.Wellcooked meat and fish are advised, preferably served hot. Salads served in intercity restaurants may carry increased risk. Vegetables should be cooked, and fruit should be peeled. Medical Centers, Dentists' Offices, and Pharmacies Iran provides low-cost health services while it offers some of the world's most experienced medical experts. Iran is a pioneer in providing people with lowcost oral and dental health services and different cheap medical surgeries and drugs. There are professional physicians available in all major cities of Iran. Vaccination of children and health Health Service hours The offices of specialists and general practitioners of dentistry and medicine are open from 8:00 to 21:00. Some physicians' offices are closed in the mornings since they work in medical centers and hospitals. However, their offices are open all days of the week from 15:00 to 21:00 except on Thursdays and Fridays, when they are closed. They are open from 08:00 to 20:00. There are some pharmacies in the urban areas which are open 24 hours a day. For getting information on these pharmacies' addresses, please call 191. Telephone Codes of Major Cities 021 0311 0411 0711 0511 Major Travel Agencies Passargad Tour Tel: 22048350-52, Fax: 22059000 Caravan-e Sahra Tel: 88843390, 88811970, Fax: 88303623, 88826036 E-mail:caravan@caravansahra.com Web: www.caravansahra.com Tatilat Tel: 22710191, 22717179 Fax: 22735222 E-mail:Info@holidayiran.com Web: www.holidayiran.com Sharq Puya Tel: 88579901 Fax: 88366165 E-mail:office@orientexplorer.net Pardisan Tel: 66431270-2 Fax: 66427470 Iran Zigwart Pharmacies Tehran Esfahan Tabriz Shiraz Mashhad 149 examinations of students is free of charge and obligatory in the whole country. Hospitals and medical centers are specialized; however, they all offer admission to emergency patients 24 hours a day. Tel: 77526252 Fax: 77500617 E-mail:aghaei@samapardaz.com Vala Parsian Gasht Tel: 88516060-6 Fax: 88748582 E-mail:vala@pardisantour.com Web: www.parsiantour.com Iran Dustan Tel: 88714214, 88722975-77 Fax: 88712927 E-mail: info@idt.i Web: www.idt.ir Zaman-e-Parvaz Tel: 88758504 (6 lines) Fax: 88758508 E-mail:info@zamantour.com Web: www.zamantour.com Persia Tour Tel: 88692520 Fax: 88694001 E-mail:parsiantour@neda.net Islamic Republic of IRAN Arts & Crafts 150 Arts & Crafts Decorative Arts Jewelry Local jewelry is one of Iran's traditional handicrafts, which is made in various shapes in the country's northern and southern provinces. The primary substances of these products consist of such metals as brass, copper, silver, etc. and such stones as turquoise, agate, jasper, etc. To make them, first, the metal is melted in a furnace, and then it is molded into a specific shape, e.g. circle, square, triangle, bush, fish, etc. Finally, the precious stones are placed on these handicrafts to form such beautiful jewelries as a bracelet, ring, hairclip, necklace, earring, etc. Local jewelries are often made by the Torkamans in the Golestan Province, as well as in some parts of the Khorasan Province, Sistan va Baluchestan, Kurdistan, and Kermanshah. Ceramics The word is derived from the Greek term, "Kermose." Clay made objects were called "Kermose" in ancient Greece. Compound soils (primary soils) are molded, baked in a furnace, enameled, and baked again. The product is called "ceramic." Today, Iran's popular ceramics are in such different shapes as vases and plateswith different cuts and painted enamels. The main centers for producing ceramic products are Meybod in Yazd, Estahban in Fars, Zanuz in Azerbaijan, etc. Ceramic Exterior Painting Ceramic exterior painting, also called enamel painting, is one of Iran's beautiful and traditional handicrafts. In this art, the earthenware vessels are baked, enameled, and then painted. This work is much simpler than ceramic interior painting, because it is easy to correct or change the painting. Enameled Ceramic Enameled ceramic is a traditional Pottery In this art, different objects, for example a bowl, pitcher, or other tools and utensils are made from baked mud. The products are called pottery if no enamel is used. Pottery is usually made from secondary soils, the evermoving soils; therefore, they are less purified and more adhesive. The main soil used in this art is clay. This type of soil has different colors, from buff to red. The main centers for producing pottery in Iran are: Laljin in Hamadan, Shahreza in Esfahan, Juybar in Mazandaran, Siyahkal in Gilan, Mond Gonabad in Khorasan, Estahban in Fars, Kalpurgan-e Saravan in Sistan va Baluchestan, Shahvar in Minab, Tehran and Qom. Carpet Weaving The art of carpet weaving in Iran has its roots in the culture and the customs of its people and their instinctive feelings. Weavers mix elegant patterns with a myriad of colors. The Iranian carpet is similar to the Persian garden: full of florae, birds, and beasts. The colors are usually made from wild flowers, and are rich in colors such as burgundy, navy blue, and accents of ivory. The proto-fabric is often washed in tea to soften the texture, giving it a unique quality. Depending on where the rug is made, patterns and designs vary. And some rugs, such as Gabbeh, and Gelim have variations in their textures and the number of knots. Silken textile caught the attention of famous travelers and explorers such as Xuanzang, JeanBaptiste Tavernier, and Jean Chardin. Iranians were among the first carpet weavers of the ancient world. History of the Pazyryk Rug In a unique archaeological excavation in 1949, the exceptional Pazyryk carpet, the oldest known surviving carpet in the world, was discovered among the ice of the Pazyryk Valley in the Altai Mountains in Siberia. It was discovered in the grave of a Scythian prince by a group of Russian archaeologists under the supervision of Professor Rudenko. Radiocarbon 151 Iranian handicraft. In this art, the earthenware vessels are made using different techniques, such as painting on the enamel, seven-colored, and gold-plated techniques. The production process is similar to that of the goldplated ceramic. The only difference is that in ceramic vessels, seven colors, e.g. azure, turquoise, red, brown, black, yellow, and white, are used for ornamenting the product. Rey, Kashan, Gorgan, and Soltan-Abad are the main centers for producing this handicraft. Islamic Republic of IRAN Arts & Crafts 152 testing revealed that the Pazyryk carpet was woven during the 5th century BC. Just how the rug remained intact is very interesting. The rug had been preserved in the permafrost since the 5th century BC. Soon after the rug had been placed in the burial mound of a Scythian chieftain, grave robbers raided the tomb. Fortunately, the robbers ignored the rug, and in their pursuit, they actually helped to protect the rug from decay. Through the opening, which the robbers left behind, water poured into the mound and froze, and thus protected the rug from decay. This rug is 180 X 198 (5'11" X 6'6") meters, and it has a velvety woolen pile, finely knotted (an average of between 200 to 270 symmetrical knots to the square inch). The rugs' central field is a deep madder red color, and it has five borders. The primary, widest border contains horsemen. Each horse has an embroidered saddlecloth with a design that resembles the actual Pazyryk rug. The secondary inner border contains rows of deer. The central field depicts repeating quatrefoils, which can be found in the stonework entrances of some of the Assyrian Palaces.The design suggests an Achaemenian Persian origin (Achaemenians were a Persiandynasty, who reigned from 559 BC to 330 BC). The advanced weaving technique used in the Pazyryk carpet indicates a long history of evolution of and experience in this art. Most experts believe that the Pazyryk carpet is the final achievement of at least one thousand years of experience and history. According to this theory, the art of carpetweaving in Iran is at least 3500 years old. The carpet is now kept in the Hermitage Museum of Leningrad. Although there have been fragments of older and finer examples of hand-knotted rugs discovered, these pieces were too tattered to be successfully identified. The Pazyryk Rug has been reproduced in a 100% Worsted Wool Machine made Wilton rug. The Royal Kashan Pazyryk Rug is available in two colorways and various sizes. Traditional Cloth Weaving This type of cloth is woven, designed, and patterned by the Zoroastrians of the Yazd province. In traditional cloth weaving, the plain cloth is skillfully designed by making small ties on the surface of the cloth to make small or large circles similar to the sun, and then the cloth is dyed. The sizes of these ties vary: some are smaller than the tip of a needle, and some of them are like big circles. A chain of stars or circles forms around the design.Today, the traditional cloth weaving is rarely done.This art is used for making Islamic clothing and coverings, scarves, and belts. The products are usually rectangular in brick-red background color with some citrons in the middle or in the corners. Yellow and light dots are used in the dark background to make the pattern seem embossed. The main center for producing these products is the Pashki Village in Gilan. Traditional Printed Cloth This art is used for patterning and designing cloths. The designs and patterns are transferred onto the cloth by using a stamp which is usually made of hard wood. A design may have five different colors. The colors used in this art are usually black, red, green, blue and yellow. The cloth is used for table covers, tablecloth, dresses, etc. Esfahan and Damghan are the main centers for producing this type of cloth. Calligraphy has long been at the center of attention of Persian art among Iranian cultures in different periods, and it continues to be one of the most reputable and famous arts in Iran. The importance of the art of calligraphy among Iranian arts is such that without decorative calligraphy, some arts seem to be imperfect. Iranians, more than any other people, have used various types of calligraphy to enrich and beautify earthenware, metallic vessels, and historic buildings. It is believed that this ancient Persian script was invented between 600-500 BC to provide monumental inscriptions of the Achaemenian kings. These scripts consisted of horizontal, vertical, and diagonal nail-shape letters, and hence, it is called "Script of Nails" or "Khat-e-Mikhi" in Farsi. After the introduction of Islam in the 7th century, the Persians adapted the Arabic alphabet to the Farsi language. Broadly speaking, there were two distinct scripts in the early centuries of Islam: cursive script and Kufic script. For the day-to-day work, a cursive script was employed while Kufic script was used for religious and official functions only. Kufic went out of general use in the 11th century though it continued to be used in the decoration of monumental religious buildings. About 1000 AD, a new script - Naskh - was established. This has remained the most popular script in the Arab world. The other main styles were Tholth, Reyhan, Mohaqqaq, Towqi and Reqa. The Arabic script was adopted in Iran soon after the Muslim conquest and was vastly improved by the Persians. In the 13th century, the Iranian scribes invented Taliq, and in the next century, Mir Ali Tabrizi, the most famous calligrapher of the Timurid period, created Nastaliq, a combination of Naskh and Taliq. Nastaliq is closely connected to Persian poetry and has played an important role in communicating poetic concepts to poetry lovers. Under the Timurid and the Safavid rulers, calligraphy experienced its highest stage of development. By the 16th century, Shiraz was among the forerunners of calligraphic study and usage in the Islamic world. In the 17th century, it was followed by Esfahan and then by Qazvin. The most famous calligraphers of the Safavid court were Mir Emad and Alireza Abbasi. Developmental Trend of Persian Script The philologists have divided the historical development of the Iranian languages into three stages by studying the characteristics and lingual peculiarities of the oldest remaining evidences of and documents on Iranian languages, as follows: 1-The Ancient period (1000-331 BC) 2-The Median period (331 BC867AD) 3-The New period (867 AD- present 153 Calligraphy Islamic Republic of IRAN Arts & Crafts 154 time) Therefore, it could be said that the Farsi language, one of the oldest Iranian languages, has left behind three stages of development; from ancient to median and new periods, since the development of its oldest version until the development of Dari Farsi language.The ancient Farsi language was written in scripts, called Mikhi (Nail shape), because of it similarity to nails.This script was created for the ancient Farsi language by the decree of Darius the Great. The Farsi alphabets were derived from the Sumerian alphabets. For the Median period, the Iranian languages are divided into two main categories of an Eastern and Western group. The language of the Sassanid is considered as part of the Mid-Western languages of Iran, and itis the immediate successor to the Ancient Farsi language. The script used for writing during this period is known as the Pahlavi script, the origin of which is Aramaic. Reading Pahlavi scripts involves great complexities. For example, some of its alphabets correspond to multiple sounds, and sometimes one piece of writing may have two or more meanings. During this period, other scripts, such asAvesta of Zoroaster and Manichaeism were also used. The New period Farsi language (Dari) is the extension of the Median period Iranian language. This language is considered as an administrative and literary language of the period. The New period Farsi is often referred to asFarsi Dari when used for governmental or administrative purposes, and sometimes it is simply called Farsi. After the advent of Islam, the Iranians created new Farsi alphabets according to their needs in order to read the Holy Qur'an. The origin of these alphabets is Syriac, and therefore it is similar to Arabic, but the Farsi scripts have special characters, which makes it distinctively. The four letters of pe, che, zhe and ge are specific to Farsi alphabets, because there are no corresponding letters in the Arabic alphabets for such letters. Furthermore, the shape of some of the Farsi writing is different from the Arabic equivalent.For example, the Farsi ke (˜), when used at the end of a word or by itself, is written with a symbol at the top, whereas the same alphabet in Arabic has no such symbol in either case.The word ye (?) in Arabic, unlike the Farsi character, holds two dots at the bottom of the letter. Since the 3rd century AH (10th century AD), during the reign of the semi-sovereign and sovereign rules in eastern and northeastern Iran, great attention was paid toward the Farsi language. The Samanid rulers promoted the Farsi language as part of their administrative policy. The Samanid played a great role in promoting the Farsi language by: encouraging and supporting the poets and writers, having translated important Arabic books to Farsi, and making Farsi the official language in tries. Owing to its elegance and beauty, it was named the "Bride of Islamic Calligraphy". After Mir Ali Tabrizi, many other famous calligraphers strived towards elevating the art of calligraphy, which culminated withthe emergence of the renowned Iranian calligrapher, Mir Emad, who came into view during the reign of the Safavid Shah Abbas. After the passage of 400 years, his impact on the Nastaaligh style of calligraphy still inspires the calligraphers. Later, Iranian calligrapher Morteza Gholi Khan, created another innovative style of calligraphy called Broken Nastaaligh. The reason for the creation of such a style could be the need to write easier and faster, similar to the creation of the Broken Taaligh after the emergence of Taaligh. The Broken Nastaaligh was developed by Mirza Shafi Harati, and its rules and standards were established by Darvish AbdulMajid Taleghani. Musical Instruments Since Iranian traditional music can only be played by special Iranian instruments, these instruments have been and are still being made by Iranians. The paintings on the Chehel Sotun walls show women playing musical instruments; serving as an historical indication of the high regard which Iranians reserved for theirmusic. Some of the musical instruments made by artists are: the lute, the 155 governmental correspondences. From this period onward, because of the popularity of governmental correspondences, the Manichaeism and Pahlavi scripts were gradually replaced by the Farsi alphabets. At the beginning of its development, the Farsi alphabets were organized on the basis of Abjad. To facilitate the learning of the alphabets, Iranians tried to group the Farsi alphabets on the basis of the similarity of their shapes and the proximity of their sounds, which led to the naming of the system, the Piramooz alphabets. In the 10th century AD, Ibn Moghla Beizavi- Shirazi, established the rules and structure, called "The Twelve Major Principles of Calligraphy" in order to develop six distinct styles, collectively called the Aghlame Setteh, which included the Mohaghigh, Reyhan, Thulth, Naskh, Regha and Towghi. They were were distinguished from each other based on the shape of the letters and the ratio of the surface areas and their perimeters. Concurrent with the development of the above mentioned style of calligraphy, Hasan Farsi Katib created yet another style of calligraphy called Taaligh, which was also called Torsal by combining Naskh and Regh. In the 14th century AD, Mir Ali Tabrizi, created a new style called Nastaaligh by combining the two styles of Naskh and Taaligh. This style became widely popular, revolutionized the art of calligraphy, and was well received in other coun- Islamic Republic of IRAN Arts & Crafts 156 tar, the dotar, the setar, the rebec, the dabdab, the Kamanche, the tonbak, the santur, etc. For ornamenting the musical instruments, such artistic works as inlaying, calligraphy and painting are used. Glass Blowing Work The discovery of many glassware shows that the history dates back to the time of Parthians and the Sassanids. Glass is a transparent, fragile substance composed of alkaline silicones produced by the process of glass blowing. It consists of the processes of shaping the melting mineral by heating it in a furnace at 1,400 centigrade, blowing into it using a special tube and other simple manual tools, and then, ornamenting it by painting, cutting, purifying, opaquemaking, etc. Tehran is one of the main centers for producing glassware. Meybod in the Fars Province is another region where glass blowing has been in vogue since the past centuries. Painting on Back of a Glass In this art, the back of the glass is painted. Artist history goes back to the first half of the 12th century (lunar calendar). The artist makes use of small pieces of glass and draws inverted designs and colors. For painting on back of the glass, first, the artist draws the design on a piece of kelk paper, and then transfers it onto the glass using a paintbrush and black ink. It is very important to follow the principles. After drawing the specific design, the artist starts coloring the glass with oil paint, and finally, he uses stabilizers to fix the color and to give a beautiful glossy appearance to the glass work. Shiraz and Qazvin, and Tehran are the main centers for making this product. Wood Carving In this art, the wood is cut and carved using a horizontal cutting machine. Some well known historical objects display the antiquity of the art, for example, some engraved designs on the throne, on the legs, and on the joss stick holder belonging to Persepolis. The primary substance used in this art is aspen wood, which is shown in hookahs, the legs of sofas and table lamps. Wood Engraving In this art, embossed designs are engraved on the wood to make such useful Delicate Woodwork Delicate woodwork is a traditional handicraft in northern Iran. In this art, the woodenware is veneered with a specific design, and so, the delicate woodenwares, such as spoons, forks, chess boards, various dishes, etc. are made with great care, beauty and delicacy. Delicate woodwork is popular in Urmia, Sanandaj and Rasht. Traditional Printing This kind of art is used on a large, patterned, silk handkerchief, which is used in local women's dresses as a headband or aribbon worn round the waist, and sometimes, it isused for keeping a baby on a woman's back. Usually, batik, or traditional printing is used for patterning these handkerchiefs. Stone Carving In this art, the stone is engraved into the desired size and dimensions for specific purposes, e.g. designing stones for decorating the walls of the mosques, memorial monuments, and pedestals. The art is mostly used for making such tools as stone pots, ornamental frames, fireplaces, and chess board pieces. Great masterpieces like the walls in Achaemenian palaces in Persepolis, delicate works like the engraved ring gems, and engraved verses of the Holy Quran on the agate rings are outstanding examples of this ancient art in Iran. Traditional Tile Working Using enameled bricks has been one of the great changes in the history of architecture, which led to the production of beautiful tile. Over the years, changes in tile production have led to its evolution and its present form. It's been used in traditional, religious buildings, e.g. mosques, and memorial monuments of the past. Currently, it is used much in modern buildings. In this art, small pieces of tiles are put together, which is the method applied in façade construction because it prevents the expansion and contraction of tiles in cold and hot environments. This way, the enamels rarely fall or break into pieces. The designs vary from vertical, horizontal, and oblique straight lines of 45 degrees as well as checkered patterns. Tile working is also used in Kufi Bannai (architectural Kufi) writings as a part of the decoration in Islamic monumental architecture in Iran. Based on the type of production, traditional tile working falls into the following categories, each described above under a separate entry: gold-plated tile, inlaid tile, enameled tile, and seven-colored tile. Perhaps the history of enameled 157 tools as a box, a chess piece, a dervish bowl, gates of sacred places, etc. Historians consider wood engraving as one of the grand old industrial arts of Iran, especially from the time of the Arab conquest of Iran. Mazandaran province is one of the main centers for making this product. Islamic Republic of IRAN Arts & Crafts 158 brick (tile) dates back to the time of Babel in the 2nd century BC. What has been found from this type of tile belongs to the Achaemenian period, which has been found in most of the buildings on the Iranian Plateau, especially those of the 5th century BC in Susa and Persepolis. Nowadays, this product is made in most of the Iranian cities, including Esfahan, Mashhad, Tehran and Qom. Khatamkari A delicate and meticulous marquetry produced since the Safavid period, khatam, was so popular in the courts that princes learned this technique at the same learning level of music or painting. "Khatam" means "incrustation", and so, "Khatamkari" is "incrustation work". This craft consists of the production of incrustation patterns (generally star shaped) with thin sticks of wood (ebony, teak, ziziphus, orange and rose woods), brass (for golden parts), and camel bones (for white parts). Ivory, gold, or silver can also be used. Many objects can be decorated in this fashion, such as: jewelry/ decorative boxes, chessboards, cadres, pipes, desks, frames or musical instruments. Combined with Persian miniature, Khatam leads to a fascinating work of art. This craft has existed for more than 700 years and is still perennial in Shiraz and Esfahan. Minakari "Minakari," or enameling, is the art of painting, coloring and ornamenting the surface of metals by fusing brilliant colors of an inticate designover the surface. The Iranians invented the art of enamel or minakari, and the Mongols spread it to India and other countries. Historically, gold has been used for minakari as it holds the enamel better, it lasts longer, and its lustre brings out the colors of the enamels. Silver, a later introduction, has been used for artifacts like boxes, bowls, spoons, and art pieces. Meanwhile, copperhas been used for handicraft products, and it was introduced after the globally enforced Gold Control Act, which compelled the minakari-makers to look for a material other than gold. Traditional Bookbinding Iranians are excellent in the art of bookbinding, because they reserve high values for books. In this art, which is now ued for binding old manuscripts, the binder fungicides the book, presses it using a press machine, lines it, and then sews the book. After lining, single sheets are pasted to the beginning and ends of the book, and then, the band is pasted to the back of the book. When the process is done, the book is sent to a cover maker. Today, traditional bookbinding is used for restoring the old books in the precious manuscripts archive of the Islamic Consultative Assembly. In the art of inlaid leather, covers of booksare made from patching pieces of leather. For making inlaid leather, appropriate types of leathers such as goat leather and ewe leather are used. Then, embossed designs of flowers, bushes, birds ; other delicate and elaborate geometrical figures such as citrons, semi-citrons, ovals, and circles; and animals' pictures are cut, arranged and pasted on leather. Sometimes, the margins are covered by embossed, gold-plated designs or different colors. There is another kind of inlaid leather in which strips of narrow, delicate leather are carefully pasted on the specific cover. Mostly, the artists of Tabriz and Herat use this method to create fantastic inlaid leather book covers. Persian Miniature A Persian miniature is a small painting whether a book illustration or a separate work of art intended to be kept in an album of such works to comprise a part of the visual element of a classical literature. The techniques are broadly comparable to the Western and Byzantine traditions of miniatures in illuminated manuscripts, which probably had an influence on the origins of the Persian tradition. Although there is an equally wellestablished Persian tradition of wallpainting, the survival rate and state of preservation of miniatures is better, and the miniatures are the best-known form of Persian painting among western countries. Miniature painting became a significant Persian form in the 13th century, and the highest point in the tradition was reached in the 15th and 16th centuries. The tradition continued under some influence from western countries and has many modern exponents. The Persian miniature was the dominant influence on other Islamic miniature traditions, principally the Ottoman miniatures of Turkey and the Mughal miniatures of the Indian sub-continent. The themes of Persian miniatures are mostly related to Persian mythology and poetry. Western artists discovered the Persian miniatures around the beginning of the 20th century. Persian miniatures use pure geometry and a vivid palette. The allure of Persian miniature painting lies in its absorbing complexities and in the surprising way it relates to the nature of art and the perception of its masterpieces. Prominent Persian miniaturists include: Kamal ud-Din Bihzad Herawi: Leading miniaturist of the Timurid era, and founder of the Safavid School. Reza Abbasi: One of the most renowned Persian painters of the Safavid era. Hossein Behzad: Famous contemporary miniaturist. Mahmoud Farshchian: Famous contemporary miniaturist. 159 Inlaid Leather Islamic Republic of IRAN Arts & Crafts 160 Metal-Working Different types of metals are used in the various types of handicrafts produced in Iran. The most popular of these items are made out of copper, which are commonly used in Iranian kitchens. The chief centers of the art of metal workings are Esfahan, Shiraz, Kashan, Yazd and Kerman. Copper kitchen articles include: pots, pans, pails, large spoons, and trays. The second category of copper items consists of picture frames, jewelry boxes, water-pipe pots and statues of various animals, which have special artistic value. Architecture & Archaeological Objects Iran's history remains visible in the country's many intriguing and important archaeological sites, its ancient and historical monuments, and its cities, which possess some of the world's most magnificent examples of Islamic art and architecture. Archaeological findings in Iran have traced the record of human settlement in prehistoric time to the Neolithic age when human beings started to gather and to store food and later to the age of agriculture. Earthenware that has been found dating back 10,000 years indicates that people living in the area at the time had already invented the craft of pottery. Objects found in Chogha Mish in Khuzestan Province indicate that about 8,000 years ago, people in Iran could already navigated and produced textiles. In Sialk, near Kashan, remnants of buildings have been discovered dating back to 5,000 years, which display remarkable architecture. At that time, Iranians were already producing copper and using copper objects. During the 3rd millennium BC, Aryans migrated to Iran and soon developed writing and signs. Architecture made great progress, and Iranians became familiar with brass. In the 2nd millennium BC, iron was produced in this region, and circa 1250 BC, glass was used in the building of Chogha Zanbil, not far from Susa in Khuzestan region of southwestern Iran. In the 1st millennium BC, Iranians made great progress in architecture and town planning, as well as building dams, roads and irrigation systems including Qanats (underground construction for channeling and reserving waters). The Achaemenian era was the zenith of of ancient Iranian civilization as illustrated by the splendor of Susa and Persepolis (Takht-e-Jamshid). Stone work and stone The Safavid era was a period for the revival of arts and crafts. Ornamental arts, architecture, carpet weaving and etc. made stunning progress. Many of Esfahan's surviving architectural masterpieces were also built in this era; such globally renowned monuments as the Imam and Lotfollah Mosques, Khaju and Allahverdikhan Bridges, the Alighapu Palace etc, are the reminders of this golden age of arts and crafts. It was during the Safavid era that the first political contacts with western countrieswere made, and the western influence gradually appeared in the face of Iranian art and architecture. The process of industrialization had resulted in a growing middle class, which sought a modern rather than traditional life. The middle class urban areas required a whole new stock of buildings, from dwellings to social institutions. Industrialization brought about the manufacture and importation of all types of building materials and techniques, and it provided the economic mechanism to finance large amounts of construction. These were the practical conditions that prevailed and supplied the ingredients for a productive aesthetic condition. 161 carving became very popular and continued through theoutstanding period of Iranian history and architecture, which began with the era of the Sassanids in the 3rd century AD. During the 400 hundred years of Sassanid rule over Iran, colossal bridges were built, a few of which remain and are used today. Dam building was very common in this era, as well as the construction of splendid palaces and cities. Most of the archaeological sites and objects that can still be seen in Iran remained from this period. Tagh-eBostan in Kermanshah, Bishapur Palace, and Firouz Abad Palace are a few examples of innovative monumental architecture from Sassanid Iran. After the emergence of Islam, the development of art and architecture continued among the Iranian people.They expressed their dependence and love to their faith and culture through building magnificent mosques and sacred shrines, madrassas (traditional Islamic academies) and mausoleums of prominent personalities. The Mongol and Timurid invasions were catastrophes that disruptedthe cultural and academic progress. However, the successors of these conquerors tried to amend the damages, and Iranian culture witnessed its revival again. The Soltaniyeh Dome from the Ilkhanid and the Shrine of Imam Reza and Gawhar Shad Mosque in Mashhad are distinguished examples of Iranian Islamic architecture in those eras. IRAN Map of I.R.Iran Islamic Republic of 162 Islamic Republic of IRAN Ecotourism 164 Ecotourism Iran is a vast country with great natural beauty and a rich history. Due to its beautiful natural setting, it can offer a lively and interesting environment to the nature loving tourists. It has various natural attractions, such as temperate forests in the north with high humidity and rainfall (1,700 mm), deserts and salt lakes in the central part of Iran, and high mountains (such as 5,604 meter high Mount Damavand), glaciers and coastal areas. Considered as one of the five countries in the world with the highest biodiversity, Iran is home to 519 different birds, 172 varying mammals, 199 various reptiles, 20 diverse amphibians, 173 assorted fish and 9,000 distinctive plant species. There are also 9 biosphere storages, 50 interior lakes, 548,000 km of coastal lines in the north and south, including the islands, 23 national parks, 35 wildlife refuge and 111 protected regions. Popular ecotourism activities in Iran include mountain and desert treks, bird watching in coastal areas and wetlands, and diving. There are a number of natural parks and protected regions, such as, Golestan, Kavir, Lar, Khosh Yellagh, Bakhtegan and Bamoo, whichoffer ecotourism attractions. The Bakhtegan Lake is a place that must be visited by tourists especially in winter when the migrating flamingoes and birds from Russia accommodate themselvesthere. Also, Iran boasts of Qeshm Geopark, which is the largest geopark in the Middle East. Golestan Forest (National Park), Gorgan As one of Iran's most attractive forestparks, Golestan Forest Park is situated between the cities of Gonbad Kavoos in the Golestan province and Bojnoord in the northern region of the Khorasan province. The park possesses many different kinds of plants and animal species and a very pleasant natural environment. It was the first area to be designated as a national reserve in Iran. The park, which has a unique situation in the mountain terrain, spans in the bunchgrass steppe. The long stretch of mountain ranges with peak altitudes of over 4,000m, and the other mountains of Alam Kuh (4,850m), and the volcanic peaks of Sabalan (4,811m) and Damavand (5,671m) provide the main attractions for foreign mountain climbers. Kavir National Park Kavir National Park is a protected ecological zone in northern Iran. It has an area of 4,000 square kilometers (about 1,500 square miles). The park is located 120 kilometers south of Tehran, and it sits on the western end of one of Iran's two major deserts, the Dasht-e Kavir (Great Salt Desert). Siahkuh (Black Mountain), a large, semi-circular rock outcropping, sits roughly in the park's center. The park encompasses desert and steppe landscapes and it is also known as "Little Africa" for its safarilike wildlife, including native goats, sheep, hyenas, wolves, gazelles, leopards, the rare Asiatic Cheetah, and the Persian Leopard. Dizin ski resort Dizin is a ski resort situated to the north of Tehran in the Alborz mountain range. It is considered as the most important ski resort in Iran and the Middle East. Rock Climbing Among the many available locations for this activity, the Alam Kuh wall (over 650m) is very popular among foreign tourists and is situated at the altitude of 4,200m, and. Rafting Long rivers that stretch from the mountains to the fields offer the the chance to kayak, canoe, and raft during mid-spring to mid-summer. Scuba Diving The limpid coastal water of the Persian Gulf, which is the result of the coral coasts and islands, offers excellent 165 Mountaineering and Mountain Climbing Being in the eastern edge of the contiguous Caspian Forest, it provides the abundant wild life that one would expect to find in mountains, foothills & valleys with steppe and deciduous forest vegetation. Islamic Republic of IRAN Ecotourism 166 opportunities for professional and amateur scuba divers. Trekking The vast difference in the temperatures of the mountain ranges, deserts, vast fields, and low plains near the equator, make it possible to do trekking during all the seasons in Iran. Desert Safari Pure silence, absolute peace, contrasting brown and white salty land, and innumerable stars in the vivid desert sky are some of the remarkable characteristics of the Iranian deserts. The deserts types consist of swampy, salty, clay, gravel, and running sands. Taking a stroll within these vast spaces, watching the wonders of the moving sands, the burning and dry salt marshes, historical monuments, brick colored buildings of simple and harsh styles, shadows of scattered villages, as well as the old ancient inns and caravansaries are charming and worth visiting for every tourist. For this purpose, Yazd Province is the best choice. The Yazd - Bafq route runs along the ancient Fahraj Mosque on the fringes of the desert, spread to the limits of Bafq. En route are the tamarisk forests, and the beautiful Ahan Shahr Park, extending over 20 hectares which appears at the end of this route. The other route is Yazd - Khanaraq Bayazeh which continues to Khoor and Biyabanek. Along this route one can see domeshaped sandy hills, covered by desert bushes. All through the route there are ancient and beautiful inns with arched windows and unique architecture, the most noteworthy of which is the military castle of Bayazeh which is placed beside the beautiful gardens of Khoor Biabanak village. Another site to visit is the ancient olive tree which is over a thousand years old. Yazd province boasts of many fantastic deserts, the most important ones being Ardakan Desert, Abar Kooh Desert, Daranjir Desert area. Caspian Sea, the largest landlocked lake in the world, is located in northern Iran. The Iranian Caspian coast including the three littoral provinces of Gilan, Golestan and Mazandaran, with their thick forests and largescale rice paddies present a striking contrast to the dry inner plateau of Iran. A four-hour drive from Tehran, the Caspian is Iran's Riviera, with a narrow plain of paddy fields and orchards separating the sea from forested mountains where bears and leopards roam around ruined Mongol castles. There are several roads connecting Tehran to the three provinces, all through breathtakingly beautiful scenery, across the mountains or alongside rivers such as the world renowned "Chalous Road" winding north across the rugged Alborz mountains to reach the Caspian Coast. With their tropical climate in summer and mild winters, beautiful sandy beaches, scenic beauty and proximity to the capital the three provinces are very popular among Iranians as a holiday and weekend resort. Numerous holiday and residential complexes, private villas, leisure facilities and holiday homes dot the landscape. Other Iranian National Parks and Natural Reserves: Sisangan National Park, the Hara Forests near Qeshm Island in southern Iran, Kharturan National Park, Wildlife Refuge and Biosphere Reserve, Naybandan Wildlife Refuge, Bafq Protected Area, Dar-e Anjir Wildlife Refuge, Oshtoran Mountain Protected Area, Hamoon Wetlands, Tandooreh National Park, Hara Protected Area, Gano Protected Area, Lar Protected Area, Central Alborz Protected Area, Khojir and Sorkhe Hesar National Park, Bakhtegan National Park, Anzali Lagoon, Port Anzali of the Caspian Sea, Arasbaran Protected Area, Arjan Protected Area, Lake Urmia National Park, Miankaleh Protected Area, Touran Protected Area, Nazhvan Suburban Natural Park near Esfahan, and Bambo National Park near Shiraz. 167 The Caspian Coast Islamic Republic of IRAN To p 1 0 P l a c e s t o Vi s i t 168 Top 10 Places to Visit Naqsh-e Jahan Square Complex, Esfahan Province Naghshe Jahan Square (Imam Square) is an important historical site and one of UNESCO's World Heritage Sites. It has 4 fundamental structures, Abbasi Jame Mosque, Ali-Qapu Palace, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, and the façade of Gheisarieh Bazaar. Astane Qods-e Razavi Complex, Khorasan Razavi Province Astane Qods-e Razavi is a complex of architectural and memorial monuments, which consists of the sacred shrine of Razavi and the surrounding buildings and monuments. This complex of monuments has been built through centuries and is a highly respected place due to the spirituality and importance associated with the sacred shrine of Imam Reza (A.S). It is considered as a selected example of Iranians' and Shiites' skills in arts and architecture. Urmia Lake, West Azarbaijan Province Urmia Lake is located in the east of the West Azerbaijan province and near the city of Urmia. This lake, which is the largest lake in the country, has an altitude of 1,267 meters above the sea. It is variably about 120 to 140 kilometers long and 15 to 50 kilometers wide. The water is extremely salty; the amount of dissolved salt in the lake is said to be twice the amount in the oceans, whichis why it never freezes. Local doctors prescribe the lake to their patients, especially to those who suffer from skin diseases. They refer to this lake, for they believe that the mineral and salt existing in the water has a healing effect. The medicinal mud of this lake is used for curing the diseases in the joints, nerves, muscles (as related to infections or rheumatism), some women's diseases, as well as healing the pain caused by blows to the joints, bones, and soft organs in the body. The swimming period usually begins from early June to mid-August. This lake has many islands and peninsulas which appeal to the tourists. It has 102 small and large islands; the most popular ones are Kabudan, Estak, Espir, and Arezu. The Chogha Zanbil Ziggurat is located 45 kilometers southeast of Susa. It is the only remnant art of the ancient city (about 1300 BC) of "Untashgal," which was two kilometers away from the Dez River. It is the most important remnant of the Elamite civilization. This city has three interconnected, mud-brick walls. The main gate of the city is in the area surrounded by the large eastern wall. There are some remnants of the water filtrations, which are considered as the oldest water installations. They are located between the second and the third walls. The Ziggurat's main temple is in the center of the area and surrounded by the third wall. The main temple's dimensions are 105 m by 105 m. Millions of bricks were used in building the temple's five floors, and unfortunately, only two floors have survived. Except for the first and fifth floor, all other floors were made with mud-brick fillings. The fifth floorwas where the idols of gods and where the goddesses were kept. The most important goddess of the time was called "Inshishunak," who was the special goddess of Susa City. The cuneiform engraved bricks on the walls of the temple, which have the same piece of writing, manifest the name of the king and the purpose of the temple's construction. The city and the works belonged to the Elamite civilization in Haft Tape in 640 BC. They were devastated by the raid of the Assyrians' (who are named after their commander, Ashurbanipal), which overturned the Elamite sovereignty that had lasted for thousands of years. This building is also registered by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Soltanieh Dome, Zanjan Province This monument is 35 kilometers away from Zanjan. It is located in the town of Soltanieh, which is a manifestation of beauty and taste. It was built by Soltan Mohamed Khodabandeh (Oljaitu) during 1302-12 AD in the city of Soltanieh, the capital of the Ilkhanid dynasty. The building of this monument, which is unique in its type, spanned thirteen years. The plan of the monument is octagonal and the monument contains eight verandas and eight minarets. The height of the dome is 48.5 meters, and the diameter of the mouth is 36 meters. It is the third largest dome in size after the Santa Maria in Italy's Florence and the Hagia Sophia in Turkey's Istanbul. However, it is the world's largest brick-made dome, which has two stages of decoration: brick and tile ornamentation andand plaster and stone painting. This dome is also registered by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. 169 Chogha Zanbil, Khuzestan Province Islamic Republic of IRAN To p 1 0 P l a c e s t o Vi s i t 170 Persepolis, Fars Province Founded by Darius I in 518 BC, Persepolis was the capital of the Achaemenian Empire. It consists of an immense half-artificial, half-natural terrace built on a stony hill on top of Rahmat Mountain in the Marvdasht Plain, , where the king of kings created an impressive palace complex inspired by Mesopotamian models. The construction of the Persepolis palaces continued up to 150 years after the death of Darius the Great. The grandeur of these monuments continues to fascinatevisitors, and the importance and quality of the monumental ruins makes it a unique archaeological site. This complex has also been registered by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Bisotun, Kermanshah Province Bisotun is a rich collection of Iran's historic and literary works, which is located 20 kilometers east of Kermanshah on the slope of Bisotun Mountain. This complex consists of the Bisotun Inscription, the portrait of Parthian king, Gudarz II, the portrait of Darius the Great, Farhad engravings, Hercules' statue, the portrait of Parthian king, Mithridates, and stones with Pahlavi inscriptions. The Bisotun Inscription, which is the most important design in this collection, was engraved instone in 522 BC on Darius' command. It describes 25 years of Darius' wars while holding the throne. There are writings on the margin of the Bisotun Inscription in three languages: ancient Parsi, Elamite, and Akkadian as well as the popular accent of the time, neo-Babel. The inscription, written in ancient Parsi in 44 lines, is engraved beautifully in cuneiform. Darius, in every refrain of the inscription, says, "King Darius states that." The repetition of this phrase gives a special dignity and grandness to the style of the inscription. This collection has also been registered by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Qara Kelisa, West Azarbaijan Province Located south of Maku in the northern Iranian province of West Azarbaijan, the massive St. Thaddeus Church, literally known as Qara Kelisa, meaning black church, is one of the oldest and most notable surviving Christian monuments in Iran. It was constructed in 68 AD by one of the apostles of Jesus, Saint Thaddeus, who traveled to Armenia, which was then part of the Persian Empire, to preach the teachings of Christ. Armenians hold Qara Kelisa as the world's first church. Qara Kelisa has been registered as the ninth Iranian historical-cultural heritage site on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Takht-e Soleyman is an outstanding ensemble of royal architecture, joining the principal architectural elements created by the Sassanians in a harmonious composition inspired by their natural context. The archaeological site of Takht-e Soleyman, in northwestern Iran, is situated in a valley set in a volcanic mountain region. The site includes the principal Zoroastrian sanctuary, partly rebuilt during the Ilkhanid period (13th century), and the temple dedicated to Anahita of the Sassanian period (6th and 7th centuries). The site has an important symbolic significance. The designs of the fire temple, the palace, and the general layout strongly influenced the development of Islamic architecture. The ensemble of Takht-e Soleyman is an exceptional testimony to the continuation of the fire and water-related cult over a period of two and half millennia. Arg-é Bam, Kerman Province Located in the Kerman province of southeastern Iran, Arg-e Bam is the most representative example of a fortified medieval town built in vernacular technique. It is listed by UNESCO as part of the World Heritage Site, "Bam and its Cultural Landscape." This enormous Silk Road citadel was built during the Sassanian period and remained in use until 1850 AD. It is situated atop an artificial hill in the northwest quadrant of the old city of Bam. The citadel complex occupies an area 315 meters wide along the east-west axis and 270 meters long along the north-south axis. On December 26, 2003, the Citadel was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake, along with much of Bam and its environs. Prior to the earthquake, the fortress had possessed the distinction of being the largest adobe building in the world, recognized for its unbaked mud brick (khesht) and mud wall (chineh) construction. Pasargad, Fars Province Pasargad was the first dynastic capital of the Achaemenian Empire, founded by Cyrus the Great in the Fars Province, homeland of the Persians in the 6th century BC. Its palaces, gardens, and the mausoleum of Cyrus are outstanding examples of the first phase of royal Achaemenian art and architecture and exceptional testimonies of Persian civilization. Particularly noteworthy vestiges in the 160-ha site include: the Mausoleum of Cyrus, Tall-e Takht, a fortified terrace, and a royal ensemble of gatehouse, audience hall, residential palace and gardens. Pasargad was the capital of the first great multicultural empire in Western Asia. Spanning the Eastern Mediterranean and Egypt to the Hindus River, it is considered to be the first empire that respected the cultural diversity of its different peoples. This was reflected in Achaemenian architecture, a synthetic representation of different cultures. The "Four Gardens" type of royal ensemble, which was created in Pasargad, became a prototype for architecture and design in Western Asia. 171 Takht-e Soleyman, West Azarbaijan Province Islamic Republic of IRAN 5 Major Cities 172 5 Major Cities Tehran Tehran is the capital, the largest city of Iran, and the administrative center of the Tehran Province. Tehran is a sprawling city at the foot of the Tochal mountain range with an immense network of highways unparalleled in Western Asia. The city is famous for its numerous resorts on the Alborz slopes, large museums, art centers and palace complexes.Tehran is the largest city in the Middle East, the 16th most populated city in the world with a population of 8,429,807, and one of Iran's largest urban areas. Most Iranian industries have headquarters in Tehran, including the manufacturing of automobiles, electrical equipment, textiles, sugar, cement, and chemical products; it is aleading center for the sale of carpets and furniture; the capital city also contains anoil refinery located in the south. In the 20th century, Tehran faced a large migration of people from all around Iran. Currenlty, the city contains various religious minorities and has many historic mosques, churches, synagogues and Zoroastrian fire temples. Contemporary Tehran is a city featuring many tall structures, of which the Azadi Tower and the Milad Tower have become the symbols. Globally, it stands 14th by city population, 56th by the GDP size, and 29th by the metropolitan area population. Due to the long history of Iran, there have been many instances of capital city relocations over the ages, and currently, Tehran is the 31st national capital of Iran. Places to see Azadi Tower Built in 1971, Azadi tower is the symbol of Tehran with a height of 45 meters. The design of the building is a derivation of ancient Islamic architecture. In this structure, about 25,000 stone pieces of 15,000 forms and sophisticated bow-shaped surfaces have been used. The east and the west sides contain the big arches inspired by the Kasra Arch and the Sassanid arches of ancient Iran. The north and the south sides are the broken bow-shaped, alter-like structures which are indicative of Islamic architecture. The 45 meter high tower holds a museum and an audio-visual center, where the objects and the works made in the pre-Christianity era up to the Qajar period are exhibited. Milad Tower Milad Tower is the tallest tower in Iran. Built between the Shahrak-e Gharb and Gisha districts of Tehran, it stands 435 m (1,427 ft) high from the base to the tip of Sar-Dar-e Bagh-e Melli (National Garden Facade) During Reza Khan's regime in 1919, at the entrance of the old Mashgh Square, where it was the military place of FathAli Shah Kingdom and the Qajar's troops, a magnificent facade was built. After a while, most of Mashgh Square was devoted to Bagh-e Melli (National Garden). Thus, this gate was known as Sar-Dar-e Bagh-e Melli. Shams ol-Emareh Palace Shams ol-Emareh is one of the famous buildings of the old Tehran, which was built by Naser Al-Din Shah between the years 1861 to 1863 in the east side of the Golestan Complex of Palaces. Mirror-works, paintings, and plasterworks of this building are outstanding examples of different indoor decorations. Toghrol Tower Toghrol Tower is one of the most important grave towers of Iran. With interior sun-dried brick walls and exterior brick, the tower has a sunny shaped plan and is made on a round platform. The tower has a height of 20 meters, inner and outer diameters of 11 and 16 meters, and wall widths of 1.75 and 2.75 meters. This Seljuk era building has brick decoration at the top of the tower and is one of the most beautiful grave towers. Mosques Imam Khomeini Mosque During the reign of the Pahlavi, it was known as the Shah (the King) Mosque. It is one of the biggest mosques of Tehran, was constructed by the Qajars, and was completed in 1819. Shahid Motahari Mosque and Supreme School This school, also known as Naseri or Sepah Salar, is considered as one of the largest and most beautiful schools of the 173 the antenna. The head consists of a large pod with 12 floors and aroof, which is 315 m (1,033 ft) high. Milad Tower is the fifth tallest tower in the world and the 14th tallest freestanding structure in the world. It is part of the Tehran International Trade and Convention Center. The project includes the Milad telecommunication tower offering restaurants with panoramic views on the top floor, a five-star hotel, a convention center, a world trade center, and an IT park. The complex seeks to respond to the needs of business in the globalized world of the 21st century by offering facilities combining trade, information, communication, convention and accommodation all in one place.Furthermore, the complex features a parking area of 27,000 square meters, a large computer and telecommunications unit, a cultural and scientific unit, a commercial transaction center, a temporary showroom for exhibiting products, a specialized library, an exhibition hall, and an administrative unit. Milad Tower has an octagonal base, symbolizing traditional Persian architecture. Islamic Republic of IRAN 5 Major Cities 174 last century. The complex of this wonderful structure includes the big dome, Shabestan, eight minarets, the suspended arch, and the colorful painted tile-works. Meusems Iran National Museum This museum exhibits objects related to pre-historic and historic art and civilization, dating back to 6000 years BC and the Islamic era.Considering the value, importance, abundance and antiquity of the objects on display, it is one of the most important museums of the world. Reza Abbasi Museum The collections on display and in storage in this museum belong to the period between the 2nd millennium BC to the early 20th century, which corresponds to the end of the Qajar period. The displays are arranged chronologically, so visitors can have a chance to observe the development of art, culture, and technology during this time interval. This setup has made the Abbasi unique among museums in the country, in respect to the Iranian art's history. The objects exhibited in this museum include artifacts made of baked clay, metal, and stone from the pre-historic times to pottery and metal objects, textile, and lacquer painting belonging to the Islamic period. Other artworks on display in the Abbasi are paintings on canvas and paper, manuscripts and jewelry from pre-Islamic period, and art, technology, and calligraphy works of the Islamic period. Abgineh Museum As one of the famous Iranian museums, Abgineh museum is comprised of several halls and workshops and a library. Art works and handicrafts exhibited in this museum include three collections of porcelain, glassworks and crystals. The decorations of the building include brickworks of the exterior facade and interior plaster cutouts, mirror works, and inlaying. The magnificent collection of porcelains exhibits a thorough history of ceramics and porcelains made in Iran from the dawn of history until today. It also provides a bulk of information about the evolution of porcelain and its production technique. Major centers of porcelain making in Iran, including Kashan, Rey, Qazvin, Gorgan and Neyshabur, are also introduced. Visiting this museum, one learns about simple and colorful glazed porcelains and the art of decorating them, which pertains tocalligraphic designs, paintings of plants and animals, and geometrical designs over and under the layer of the glaze. Some of these porcelains enjoy paintings on the basis of proverbs and old mythical and folk tales. With its beautiful architecture and facade resembling a carpet-weaving loom, the Carpet Museum of Iran, is located in the northwest of Laleh Park in Tehran. It is composed of two exhibition galleries covering an area of 3400 sq m. The ground floor gallery is assigned to permanent exhibitions, and the upper floor gallery is considered for the temporary exhibitions of carpets, kilims, and carpet designs. Tehran Museum of Contemporary Arts Being one of the world's top 10 art museums and holding more than 4000 masterpieces of contemporary artworks in painting and visual arts, the Tehran Museum of Contemporary Arts was inaugurated in 1977 and built adjacent to Tehran's Laleh Park. The museum design carries elements of traditional Persian architecture, such as Badgirs, and yet it also has a spiraling design reminiscent of Frank Lloyd Wright's Guggenheim.The treasures of the Museum are among the richest modern art collections of the world. The Muesum holds an impressive variety of works notably by: Claude Monet, Camille Pissarro, Van Gogh, James Ensor, Edouard Vuillard, André Dunoyer de Segonzac, Jules Pascin, André Derain, Louis Valtat, Georges Rouault, Fernand Léger, Pablo Picasso, Alberto Giacometti, Francis Bacon, Max Ernst, René Magritte, George Grosz, Diego Rivera, Jasper Johns, Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein, Jim Dine, Peter Phillips, James Rosenquist, Fritz Winter, Joan Mir?, William Turnbull, Victor Vasarely, Adolph Gottlieb, Richard Hamilton, Georges Braque, Jean Paul Riopelle, Edvard Munch, Pierre Soulages, Edgar Degas, Mary Cassatt, Maurice Prendergast, Franti?ek Kupka, Max Beckmann, James Whistler, Edward Hopper, Giorgio Morandi, Noreen Motamed, Giacomo Balla and Marcel Duchamp. The art treasures were publicly exhibited for the second time from 26 June to 6 August, 2009. 120 works of European and American modernism history were on display. It was one of the greatest exhibitions of artwork since the Islamic revolution in Iran. Places to Stay Esteghlal Grand Hotel Next to Vali-e-Asr Crossroad, Chamran Exp. Way, Tehran. Tel: (+98-21) 22040021-5 Azadi Hotel Evin Intersection, Chamran Exp. way, Tehran. Tel: (+98-21) 22073021-9 Laleh Hotel Next to Water Organization, Dr. Fatemi Ave, Tehran. Tel: (+98-21) 8966021-9 Homa Hotel Khoddami Street, Vanak Square, Vali-e-Asr Ave, Tehran. Tel: (+98-21) 88773021-9 Places to Eat Alborz Restaurant North Sohrevardy Ave., After Shahid Beheshti Ave. Tel : (+98-21) 8761907 Nayeb Restaurant Vali-e-Asr Ave., Saee Park Tel: (+98-21) 88713474 Shandiz Jordan Restaurant Jordan, after the gas station, Saba Ave. Tel: (+98-21) 2043755 175 Carpet Museum Islamic Republic of IRAN 5 Major Cities 176 Esfahan Esfahan, the capital city of the Esfahan province is one of the prominent cities of Iran in regards to industrial activities, beauty, cultural and historic monuments and arts and crafts. It was chosen as the capital of Iran twice; first, during the reign of the Sejuk and Deylaman, and second, during the Safavid era in the 17th century. Places to See Naghshe Jahan Complex (Imam square) This place was built when Esfahan was selected as the capital of the Safavid Empire. It is 507 meters long and 158 meters wide and located in the east of the Chahar Bagh Boulevard in Esfahan. The place is a distinction of Esfahan and Safavid architecture. There are three grand and beautiful monuments around this square which belong to the time of the Safavid, such as the Imam Mosque, the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque and the Ali-Qapu Palace. On the other side of the square, the design on the façade of the Gheisarieh Bazaar and the way it connects to the arches makes the square eye-catching and awesome. The square is surrounded by chambers on two floors, which have been used for trade and business over the years. There are also three masterpieces in the three corners of the square, which belong to the time of the Safavid andshow the greatness of the Islamic and Iranian art. Ali-Qapu, with its paintings of Reza Abassi on the walls and the plaster works of the Sound Room; Imam Mosque, with its 52-meter dome and the fully tiled 48-meter minaret; as well as Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, covered thoroughly with inlaid tiles, have made the square and the surrounding monuments a manifestation of the Iranians' original and beautiful skill in Islamic art and architecture. That is the reason why UNESCO has registered Naqsh-e Jahan Square and the surrounding monuments as a World Heritage Site. The palace was built in the 17th century AD, and it lies in the center of a garden, covering 67,000 sq m. It has several halls and room, which have been decorated with marble, impressive gilding, exquisite paintings, and animal statues. The palace also has a museum. Ali-Qapu The palace was built during the Safavid era in the 17th century and consists of a 6-floor palace with a height of 48m. This palace is located on the west of Imam Square. It was a reception site for guests and foreign ambassadors who came to visit Shah Abbas I, the powerful Safavid king. Its plaster works and paintings by Reza Abbasi are considered as masterpieces of the Safavid era. Imam Mosque This impressive mosque is also located in Imam Square and is one of the Islamic-Iranian architectural masterpieces. Its dome is 52 m high, and its minarets are 4 m tall. It is a unique mosque for its beautiful tile-work and decorative stones. Sheikh Lotfallah Mosque This mosque, which was constructed on the orders of Shah Abbas I of the Safavid dynasty, is one of the most magnificent historic monuments of Iran. Its dome is decorated with exquisite tile work, externally and internally. Pole Khaju (khaju Bridge) The present bridge was built during the reign of Shah Abbas II of the Safavid dynasty on Zayandeh Rood River. It is renowned for its magnificent architecture, delightful frescos, and tile work. Allah Verdi Khan Bridge This bridge, with a length of 300 m and a width of 14 m, is one of the most prominent historic monumentsdueto its architectural style. It is unique in beauty, stability, and grandeur, and it is the largest bridge over the Zayandeh Rood River in Esfahan. Menar Jonban (The Shaking Minaret) This monument consists of a tomb with two minarets, which were constructed during the Mongol era. When one of these minarets is shaken, the other and some parts of the building also shake. 177 Chehel Sotoun Palace Islamic Republic of IRAN 5 Major Cities 178 Vank Church and Meuseum This church, located in the Jolfa region of the city, is one of the most striking churches of the world for its gilded ceiling and paintings. The church also contains a museum. Bazaars The most popular bazaar in Esfahan is Gheisarieh Bazaar, which joins Naghsh-e Jahan Square to Atigh Square. Many bazaars branch off this large Bazaar such as: Nim Avard, Araban, Haronieh, Golshan, Mokhles, Samavar Sazha, Maghsood Beik, etc. Also, other popular bazaars, such as Mesgarha (coppersmiths) bazaar, Tarkesh Doozha bazaar, Kolah Doozha (hat makers) bazaar, Avafha (rope makers) bazaar, and Ahangarha (blacksmiths) bazaar, are located around Naghsh-e Jahan Square. Places to Stay Abbasi Hotel Madani St., Esfahan. Tel: (+98-311) 226010-9 Ali Qapou Hotel Chahar-Bagh Abbasi St., Esfahan. Tel: (+98-311) 231282-4 Kowsar Hotel Boustan Mellat Boulevard, Esfahan. Tel: (+98-311) 240230-9 Places to Eat Maharaja Restaurant Bansico Bldg, Enghelab Square, Chahar Bagh Street, Esfahan. Tel: (+98-311) 24985 Shahrzad Restaurant Abbasabad, Chahar Bagh Street, Esfahan. Tel: (+98-311) 234474, 239109 It is the capital city of the Khorasan-e Razavi province, which lies 970 m above sea level and 924 km from Tehran, and is one of the most important cities of Iran. The Holy Shrine of Imam Reza Complex is located in Mashhad, making it a pilgrimage destiny for Muslims around the world. Places to See Sacred Shrine of Imam Reza (Astane Ghods-e Razavi) A grand collection of buildings were gradually constructed around the Holy Shrine of Imam Reza (the eighth Shiite Imam), whos is the only Shiite Imam whose tomb is situated in Iran. The Imam is also very dear and respected among Iranians. This complex consists of the Shrine of Imam Reza, numerous courtyards and portals, Gawhar Shad Mosque, a library, the University of Islamic Sciences, and other buildings, all of which were constructed. Beside the Imam Reza Shrine, Gawhar Shad Mosque, which was built by Gawhar Shad, the wife of Timur's son, Shahrokh, is a brilliant example of Islamic architecture. This mosque was built according to the Iranian plan of four-veranda mosques, which forms a large courtyard in the center. The beautiful calligraphy on the mosque's walls was done by Baysunqur Mirza, Shahrokh's son. The most attractive part of this mosque is the southern veranda, which is decorated with moqranas works and valuable inscriptions. There are two solid minarets on both sides of this veranda, which are 6 meters wide and have the same height as the veranda. This mosque has been ornamented and renovated twice: once during the Safavid period in 1631 and once during the Qajar era.Other than these, Astane Qods-e Razavi has a rich library and museum. Astane Qods-e Razavi Museum consists of three parts: the Central Museum, the Malakabad Museum, and the Holy Quran Collection. This museum has valuable works like the Imams' Holy Qurans, old books and manuscripts, inscriptions, and calligraphies by Alireza Abbasi, Mir Emad, Ahmad Tabrizi and Kalhor, as well as priceless carpets that date back to the Safavid period. Pir-e Palan Dooz Tomb (Mashhad): This tomb is located in the north section of Imam Reza's holy shrine and contains a square building with an arch on top and a brick-made veranda in front. Inside the tomb, there is a dais with beautiful painting, which gives the tomb 179 Mashhad Islamic Republic of IRAN 5 Major Cities 180 a special appearance. The walls of the building had decorative painting dating from the Safavid era, which has been destroyed due to humidity and dampness. The whole building and its remaining parts are from the Safavid era and werebuilt in 1606. The site contains the tomb of Mohammad Aref Abbasi, who was nicknamed Palan Dooz and one of the learned persons from the Zahabieh dynasties. Ferdosi Tomb (Toos): The tomb and resting place of the great Iranian epic poet, Hakim Abol-Ghasem Ferdowsi is located 24 kilometers north of Mashhad. The interior of the tomb was changed completely in the process of rebuilding; the entrance is built with two stairways against each other in the west, and its space expands to 900 square meters. Inside the tomb, 20 marbled pillars are installed in the lower part, and 8 pillars stand in the upper part. The design was inspired by the tomb of Cyrus the Great in Persepolis. Sheikh Farid al-Din Attar Neyshaburi's Tomb Amir Alishir Navaee, the minister of the last Timurid governor, built another building on Attar's grave. In 1341 AH (the solar calendar), 1962, the National Monuments Association completed the reconstruction of the ruined building and took measures for the tile works. Attar's tomb has been a tourists' attraction and a meeting place for his fans around the world. Hammam-e Shah (The King's Bath) This bath was built in the big bazaar and next to the Imam Mosque in 1606 by Mehdi Gholi Beig Mir Akhor. "Hammam-e Shah" is a complex of various spaces. The biggest and the most beautiful part of the bath is the "Beineh," which was built in a square shape at the front of the entrance. Eight stony pillars, two by two, each of them 1/5 meter away from another, support the covered arch. Another important part of the bath is the "Garmkhaneh" (a site that keeps the air and bath water warm), in which four pillars supportthe roof. In addition, there are other places in the bath area, such as Khazaneh and Abdarkhaneh. Malek House Malek House is located on Imam Khomeini Street and near the office of the Organization of Financial and Economic Affairs. This building was much larger in the past, but currently, the Malek House embodies the outside part of the house, whichcontains two floors, the big guest room with wooden and inlaid ceiling, and the Ghadamgah Building This beautiful eleventh century building near Neyshabur has an eight-corner structure, high verandas, and two-storey false arches, seven-colored sun-dried bricks tiles, and beautiful plaster-works. Apparently this building had been erected on the orders of Shah Abbas I. After the earthquake in 1663, it was repaired on the orders of Shah Soleyman in 1670. It is so-called Ghadamgah (the place of the steps), because where the big steps attributed to Imam Reza exist, there sits a black stone. Shandiz It is one of the summer resorts around Mashhad, which is located in the Torghabeh district. It lies 30 kilometers west of Mashhad and approximately 13 kilometers from Torghabeh on the way from Mashhad to Abardeh and Zeshk. The springs and many gardens, the green and fresh atmosphere, the river and natural sightseeing, the pleasant climate, the native handicrafts of fur and leather clothing, woodcrafts, baskets and the products of the other industriesmake this summer resort a popular place for the tourists, pilgrims, and residents of Mashhad. Torghabeh Knownfor its famous restaurants on the way to Jagharagh, the city is located 18 kilometers southwest of Mashhad and is restricted from the west by the Binalood mountain chains and from the north by the Takht-e Rostam Mountain. Torghabeh has many gardens with various fruits and beautiful springs, and a roaring river passes by it. In the summer, it has a cool and pleasant climate. As in previous years, this area was the center of attention for the residents and pilgrims of Mashhad. Tondoreh National Park (Dargaz): Near Chehelmir, Tondoreh National Park is located 30 kilometers west of Dargaz city. This rocky-mountainous park is a suitable place for environmental researches and contains various unique and wonderful plants and wild animals. Also, five kilometers from Mohit Bani Chehelmir station, there is a castle that dates back to the Parthian era. In the park, one can find many wild animals such as rams, wolves, leopards, and various types of hunting birds. Places to Stay Homa Hotel (1) Ahmad Abad Square, Mashhad. Tel: 0511- 832001-9 Homa Hotel(2) Khayyam Boulevard, Mashhad. Tel: 0511- 7688859 Kowsar Hotel Beytol Moghadas Square,Mashhad. Tel: 0511- 52944, 3651140 Ghasr Hotel Imam Reza Street, Mashhad. Tel: 0511-8511126-9 Places to Eat Pesaran-e Karim Restuarant Next to Ghoba mosque, The 23 Khayam, Khayam Boulevard, Tel: 0511-7685053 Rezaee Restaurant At the corner o Kolah Dooz, Ab Kooh street, Tel: 0511- 8433857 Moeen Darbari Restaurant: Across fro the Bakhtar Hotel, Pasdaran street, Tel: 0511- 8785248 181 beautiful plaster-worked fire place of the upper floor. Islamic Republic of IRAN 5 Major Cities 182 Shiraz Situated 1.54 m above sea level and lying 895 km from Tehran, Shiraz is the capital city of the Fars province. Cyrus the Great, the first Achaemenian king of Persia, established his capital near this ancient city in 553 BC. Places to See Persepolis (Takht-e Jamshid) The Persepolis complex of palaces is considered as the historic marvel of Iran and the world. It consists of the Small Gate (the Public's Gate), Apadana Palace, Tachar Palace, 100-pedestal Hall, Semi-Opened Palace, Persepolis Treasury, Three-Gate Palace, Stony Hill, Memorial Monuments of Ardeshir the II and Ardeshir the III, and King Xerxes (Khashayar Shah) Palace. The complex of palaces was burnt down by Alexander the Great in 330 BC. One of the most well-known palaces in Persepolis is the Apadana, which is the main entrance monument to Persepolis. This palace consists of a 36-pedestal central hall and three 12-pedestal verandas in the northern, southern, and eastern parts. The northern and eastern verandas are connected to the front yards by some staircases. The height of the terrace in the Apadana Palace is 16 meters and the height of the pedestals is 18 meters. The majority of the Persepolis palaces were constructed from black and white stones, and the stone reliefs depict the different ceremonies of the Achaemenian courts. The bodies of several Achaemenian kings were buried in this cave-like tomb. There are seven reliefs dating back to the Sassanid era, each of which depicts a battle of or glorifies a Sassanid king. A Zoroastrian religious center, perhaps the most important in the world, is situated here. Vakil Mosque With exquisite tile works, a marbled pulpit, forty-eight stone pillars and a firm roof, this grand mosque is considered to be one of the most interesting monuments of the Zand era. Vakil Bazar This bazaar, which is constructed in the form of a cross, has a fascinating architecture. Its roof, more than 10 meters high, is one of the most remarkable achievements in beauty and durability. The bazaar dates back to the Zand period in 18th century AD. Shah-e-Cheragh It is the most important shrine in Shiraz. It belongs to Mir Sayid Ahmad, the son of the 7th Shiite Imam. The shrine has been renovated several times during the course of its history. Hafeziyeh It is the tomb of the great Iranian poet, Khajeh Shamseddin Mohammad Hafez, popularly known as Hafez, who passed away in 1389 AD. Karim Khan Zand reconstructed the tomb in 1773 AD, and it was later renovated several times. The present building was constructed in 1937. Saadieh Sheikh Muslihuddin Saadi, the famous Iranian poet and writer, was born in Shiraz in the 12th century AD. After several years of travelling through various parts of Asia, he returned to Shiraz and remained there until he passed away around 1292. His tomb has been renovated several times. The present building was constructed in 1942. Narenjestan This building is outstanding as a masterpiece of plasterwork, in-laid work, mirror-work and paintings. Darvaz-e Quran (Quran Gate) This gate was built by the Buyids about 1,000 years ago as an entrance to northern Shiraz. It is a tradition of Iranian culture to pass the passengers underneath the Holy Quran 183 Naghsh-e- Rostam Islamic Republic of IRAN 5 Major Cities 184 before setting out for a journey. Thus, following the tradition, Karim Khan Zand put a volume of the Holy Quran on the top of this gate, which vouches good wishes for a safe journey. Bagh-e-Eram (Eram Garden) With impressive, historiccypress trees and a building with beautiful mirror encrusted stalactites, Eram Garden is worthwhile visiting. It is famous for its unique plants and typical late-Qajar palace. Recently, it was dedicated to Shiraz University. Places to Stay Homa Hotel Meshginfam Ave, Shiraz. Tel: (+98-711) 2288000-14 Chamran Hotel Chamran Blvd. Tel: (+98-711) 6289494 Pars Hotel Zand St. Tel: (+98-711) 2332255 Places to Eat Sufi Restuarant Sattarkhan St. Tel: (+98-711) 6263877 Dalahoo Restuarant Sepidan Road Tel: (+98-711) 6753414-16 Patris Restuarant Sanaee Blvr. Tel: (+98-917)1135810 Tabriz, the capital city of the East Azarbaijan province, lies 1,366 meters above the sea level and 642 km from Tehran. Some historians claim that the city predates the pre-Christian era, and some believe that the city flourished only after the conquest of Islam. However, the archaeological excavations date 5,000 years ago. Places to See Kaboud Mosque (Blue Mosque) These are the remains of a grand mosque, a large part of which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1778. The impressive tile-work portal and the exquisite inscriptions add to its magnificence. The structure of the mosque predates the birth of Islam, dating back to the 5th century AD. El Goli Covering an area of 54,675 sq m, this pond lies next to a green hill and 7 km southeast of Tabriz. It provides a great opportunity for recreation. The garden and the park were built around an artificial pond. A hill in the eastern side of the park leads down through a stepped way to the pool. The pool is said to have been built at the time of the Aq Qoyunlu kings in the 15th century and extended during the Safavid era. Tabriz Bazaar It is one of Iran’s most prominent bazaars in regards to its architectural style, the numbers of Saras (trade-houses), Rastehs (sections of bazaar), and the volume of transactions. Its carpet and jewelry markets have become famous throughout the world. Amir Nezam House Amir Nezam House, or the Qajar Museum of Tabriz, is a historical building in the Shesh-Gelan district, one of the oldest quarters of Tabriz. This monument was built in the 18th century during the reign of crown prince Abbas Mirza. It was renovated by Hasan-Ali Khan Amir Nezam Garrousi, and it became his residence. Maqbarat o'shoara (Poets' Tomb) This is the place where famous personalities such as scholars (both in art and literature) are laid to rest, namely, Homam Tabrizi, Khaghani Shervani, Zahiroddin 185 Tabriz Islamic Republic of IRAN 5 Major Cities 186 Faryabi, Sheykh Mohammad Khiyabani, Assadi Toosi, the famous contemporary Iranian poet Ostad Mohammad Hossein Shahriyar, and many major prominent intellectuals. Jame Mosque It is one of the oldest historical monuments in Tabriz and was the center of attention during Ilkhanid period, during which the high altar of the mosque was built. Saint Stephano's Church This grand church is one of the most significant monuments in northwest Iran in regards to its historical and architectural aspects. It combines Greek, Roman and Iranian architectural styles. Constitution House During the late 19th century, the house used to be a meeting place for the leaders of the "Constitutional Movement" in Tabriz. It displays impressive decorations. Tomb of Two Kamals Tomb of Two Kamals is located on Baylankuh Street. The tombs of the two men with the same name, Kamal Xocandi "Khojandi," a poet, and Kamaleddin Bihzad, the famous Master of Persian painting, are located underground. Also, there are two statues of the two masters near the tomb. Arg-e-Tabriz This impressive monument, which dates back to the early 14th century, is also called Majid-e-Alishah or Arg-eAlishah. It consists of the remaining parts of an imposing grand building. It was built on the site of a mosque that was built 500 years ago. Places to Stay Tabriz Hotel Imam Khomeini Ave, Next to Daneshgah Square, Tabriz. Tel: (+98-411) 3341081-9 El Goli Road Tel: (+98-411) 3324146, 3291420-9 Pars Hotel El Goli Sq., El Goli Park Tel: (+98-411) 3807820 Where & What to Eat There is an extensive list of Iranian restaurants throughout Iran. Persian cuisines are famous for their excellent taste. There are varieties of international and national dishes in Iranian restaurants. Therefore, there is a wide range of delicious choices at hand. These are some of the popular foods. Please note that hotels in major cities have internationally standard restaurants, where one can have local traditional foods as well. Kabab and Chelo Kabab These are Iran’s famous traditional dishes. Most of the well-known Kabab restaurants in Iran are located in Tehran, such as the Nayeb restaurants. Gaz This confectionary made from Manna is considered as the monopolistic confectionary and a souvenir of Esfahan.It is available in different types, such as: morsal and farinaceous; in different shapes; with pistachio and almond; and the combination of both. It is offered in various stores around the country. Poolaki and Sugar Candy Esfahanis prefer to eat Poolaki while drinking tea as an alternative to sugar cubes, and it is more pleasant and healthy. It can be bought from most of the super markets and confectionary stores. 187 Shahriar Hotel Fereni It is a traditional caramel cream of Esfahan that attracts many tourists. It is appealing and is often eaten with date juice, grape juice, a combination of both, or sugar. Beryani (Roasted) It is roasted with the neck of mutton or the kidney of sheep. Spearmint, saffron, cinnamon, salt, barberry, almond picks, onion, and spices are combined. Cuisine of Northern Iran (Caspian Sea) Apart from the magnificent natural scenery, this region offers a wide range of traditional local dishes, among which Gheliyeh Mahi (Fish Dish) and various Khoreshts (meat and chicken stews) served with rice are most notable. Places to Eat Jazireh Restaurant Azarshahr Road Tel: (+98- 412) 3653700 TRC Restaurant Roshdieh, Vali Amr Alley, Firouzeh Ave. Tel: (+98- 411) 6689401 Where and What to Buy There are various modern shopping malls in Tehran, where tourists can buy everything from modern commodities to traditional Iranian handicrafts. For tourists who wish to buy traditional items, Tehran Grand (Old) Bazaar is the ideal place to go.In all other major cities (Tabriz, Mashhad, Esfahan and Shiraz), local shops and grand bazaars offer similar items to interested tourists. Islamic Republic of IRAN Etiquette- Do's and Don'ts 188 Etiquette- Do's and Don'ts Iranian people are well known for their great hospitality and tolerance. This tradition has deep roots in the ancient history of Iran. Nevertheless, people are very conscious of their moral principles. Generally, public displays of sentiments between the opposite genders are not considered decent. Accordingly, it is advised that one restrain from kissing or handshaking with the opposite sex in public. - Dress in a conservative manner, particularly when not in a major city and not in a tour group. - Remove shoes when entering a mosque or a carpeted area in a private house. It is advised that feet (especially women's) be kept covered. - Refrain from discussing politics, family relations, the role of women, orother controversial topics unless in a company of close friends. - Refrain from showing affection in public for a member of the opposite sex. - Refrain from stretching-out a hand to be shaken by a member of the opposite sex and refrain from touching any member of the opposite sex except close family relatives. Intimate physical contact in public is likely to cause offence. Couples can hold hands, but kissing and embracing are prohibited in public. Women and men usually kiss on the cheek three times when meeting and parting (women kiss women and men kiss men). - Refrain from showing indignation if physically searched by customs officials in the airports. - Refrain from stretching out legs or revealing the soles of shoes when in company. - Refrain from sticking out a thumb; it is considered vulgar. - It is strongly advised to carry the name of one's hotel and/or destination written down in Persian script (many taxi drivers do not speak or read English). - Don't accept alcoholic drinks that may be available in black markets. Photo by Ahmad Pishkar Dress Code The dress code might seem to be a matter of concern for those who are to visit Iran for the first time, but some tourists have found it an interesting experience. It is expected that clothes be modest and not offend the Islamic rules. Generally, these rules are not strictly enforced for tourists and non-Muslims- just the minimum requirements: Gentlemen - Shorts are not appropriate in the public, except near the beaches - Wearing ties and bows are not a problem - T-shirts are acceptable Ladies The Islamic dress code for women include loose trousers or long skirts, suits, dresses with long sleeves, long coats, and head scarves, depending on the occasion and the place. Inside religious places, such as mosques, holy shrines, and mausoleums, women are required to wear veils - a long, wide piece of cloth that covers from the head down to the ankles. There is no requirement to cover the face or hands. Accommodation Do you have a vacant room? Aayaaa otaaq darid? Double room Otaaq-e do nafareh Single room Otaaq-e yek nafareh Additional bed Takht-e ezafi I want a room with bathroom, shower, TV Otaaq ba dastshouiie, hamam, television mikhaham. I have a reservation Man otaaq reserve karde boodam How much is it for ....? (one night, a week, two people) Gheymate ootaaq beraye (yek shab, yek hafteh, do nafareh) cheghadr ast? Coversation Welcome Khosh amadid. How are you? Haletaoon chetor ast? I am fine Halam khoob ast. Pleased to meet you! Az didanetan khoshvaghtam! Please Khahesh mikonam Thanks Moteshakeram Excuse me! Bebakhshid! Hello Salaam Goodbye Khoda hafez Good morning Sobh bekheyr Good night Shab bekheyr Noon Zohr Afternoon Baad az zohr Today Emrooz Yesterday Dirooz Tomorrow Farda Week Hafteh Yes Baleh No Na, Nakheyr What's your name? Esme shoma chist? My name is ... Esme man .... ast. Where are you from? Az koja hastid? I am from .... Man az .... hastam. I like .... Man .... mikhaham Directions Where is the ....? …..Kojast? How far is it to...? Az inja ta ..... cheghdr rah ast? I want to go to ... Mikhaham beravam be.... Here Inja There Anja In front of … Jeloye … Behind … Aghabe … Opposite … Rooberooye … Far from … Door az … Near ... 189 Language Essentials IRAN Islamic Republic of Language Essentials 190 Nazdike ... Can you show me on the map? Aaya mitavanid rooye naghsheh be man neshan dahid? Where is the .... (dentist, doctor, hospital, pharmacy)? (Dandan pezeshk, doctor, bimarestan, darookhaneh) kojast? I am sick. Man mariz hastam. I have ... (Anemia, asthema, diabetes). Man … (kam khooni, tangi nafas, maraze ghand) daram. I am allergic to .... (antibiotics, aspirins, bees, peanuts, penicillin) Man be .... (antibiotic, aspirin, badam zmini, penicillin) hasasiyat daram. Antiseptic Zede ofooni Diarrhea Es-haal Medication Dava Sun Block Zede Aftab Health Language Difficulties Do you speak English? Aaya shoma englisi sohbat mikonid? Does anyone speak English? Aaya kasi inja englisi sohbat mikonad? I understand Mifahmam I do not understand Nemifahmam How do you say .... in your language?/ What does it mean? Shoma be ... che migooiied?/Yani che? Please write it down. Khahesh mikonam benevisid. Question Words What? Che? When? Keey? Why? Chera? Where? Kojaa? How? Chetor? How much? Cheghadr? How many? Chand ta? Numbers Yek (1), do (2), Se (3), chahar (4), panj (5), Shesh (6), Haft (7), Hasht (8), Noh (9), dah (10) Bist (20), si (30), chehel (40), panjah (50), shast (60), haftad (70), hashtad (80), navad (90), sad (100) Hezar(1000) Paperwork Name Naam, esm Nationality Meliyat Date/place of birth Tarikh/mahale tavalod Sex/gender Jensiya How much is this? Gheymatash chand ast? Do you have ....? Aaya shoma ..... darid? I'm just looking Faghat negah mikonam What time do you open/close? Che saati baz mikonid/mibandid? Expensive Geran Cheap Arzan Size Andazeh Black Siyah White Sefid Useful Words Big Bozorg Small Koochak Hot Garm/Dagh Cold Sard Good Khoob Bad Bad Enough Kafi Open Baz Close Basteh Very Ziyad Little Kam Eating Out Have you got a table? Aaya mize khali darid? I want to reserve a table Mikhaham yek miz reserve konam. The bill please Soorat-hesab lotfan. Vegetarian Giyah Khar Restaurant Restooran Waiter Gaarson Menu Meno Breakfast Sobhaneh Lunch Nahar Dinner Shaam Glass Livan Bottle Botri Knife Kard Fork Changal Spoon Ghashogh Transport Transport Haml Va Naghl Airport Foroodgah Bus Otobus Bus stop Istgah Otobus Terminal Terminal Railway Station Istgah Rah Aahan Taxi Taxi Ticket Belit Time table Barnameh Harekat. 191 Shopping