Low Allergy Dogs - How To Choose Your Dog

Transcription

How To Choose Your Dog.com
Low Allergy Dogs : How to
Choose The Best
Hypoallergenic, NonShedding Dog For You
Choose your hypoallergenic, non-shedding dog like an expert –
even if you’ve never owned a dog before. Learn all about dog
allergies and discover the best dog breeds for people with allergies.
Learn how choose the best low allergy, hypoallergenic, nonshedding, non-moulting and low dander dog for your lifestyle – one
you’ll love to live with.
Special Thanks
This book could not have been written without some very special people. Thanks go to:

My partner Robin. Without his support I‘d never have found the freedom or time to
devote to my love of dogs.

National Kennel Clubs - Federation Cynologique Internationale United Kingdom
Kennel Club, American Kennel Club (AKC), Canadian Kennel Club (CKC), The
Kennel Union of South Africa (KUZA), The Kennel Council of Australia, Federacion
Canofila de Puerto Rico (FCPR), New Zealand Kennel Club, Italian Kennel Club and
Swedish Kennel Club

Susie Allen – Foster Care Director, Friends of Retired Greyhounds (FORG)
Colorado, http://www.friendsofretiredgreyhounds.org/index.html

Charlie Ritchie, my internet coach. Charlie‘s cajoling and persistence finally paid off!

Deb Kidwell and Rhonda Mann, Kel Simoon Azawakhs, USA. For proof reading,
extensive breeder experience and just being friends.

Michelle Harvey, owner and breeder of Chinese Cresteds, groomer, boarding facility
owner, and Mom to an allergy sufferer. For proof reading and offering advice.

My dogs Kylah, Vinnie and Blue. For keeping me company while spending hours in
the study, and reminding me what all this is about – unconditional love.
Statement of Copyright
This material is copyrighted to
© Beverley Nash, and
© www.howtochooseyourdog.com
All rights are reserved and copyrighted to www.howtochooseyourdog.com and Beverley
Nash. If you want to use this report to benefit other dog lovers, please obtain legitimate
affiliate rights through Clickbank or contact the author directly for permission. No
unauthorised distribution or any other use is permitted without prior authorisation.
Failure to follow these copyright requirements will result in legal action.
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Contents
Welcome to this book
Chapter 1 – Myth Busting
Page 5
9
16 big fat lies you need to avoid
Make your choice more successful with these tips
Chapter 2 – Are you ready for a dog?
14
Why this question is so important
The sub-questions you need to answer first before you dive in
A way of recording and analysing your answers, and
A worked example of how that could look.
Chapter 3 – What do you need from a dog?
27
Why it‘s important to find out what you need from a dog
How to go about the task
What questions to ask about your lifestyle and home
What questions to ask about the type of dog you‘d prefer
How to bring that all together in a ‗dog shopping list‘.
Chapter 4 – Introduction to dog breeds
42
How dogs evolved
How breeds are grouped together, based on their heritage
What makes one breed more ‗low allergy‘ than another
A list of all the accepted low allergy breeds you can choose from
A second list of possible choices for you to check out.
Chapter 5 – Choosing ‘your’ breeds(s)
49
What each one of the dog breeds in the list is like (a profile)
How to shortlist, and a simple tool to help you
Which dog breeds suit you the best, and
An important health warning about ‗designer dog‘ breeds.
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Chapter 6 – Finding a breeder
107
Where to start in finding a suitable breeder
How to decide which breeder or breeders you want to investigate further
What to look for when you make your first contact, and
How that helps you decide on breeders to meet
Chapter 7 – Meeting the breeder
119
Getting prepared for meeting the breeder‘s dogs
How to identify a responsible breeder
What the breeder might want to know about you, and
How and which to choose
Chapter 8 – Allergies and allergy testing
132
Answering the question ‗what is low allergy‘
Looking at the causes of dog allergies in detail
Review why you‘re getting a low allergy dog
Show you ways of testing your allergic reaction
Chapter 9 – Choosing Your Dog
140
What to have in place before you go
What to look for – the whole litter
What to look for – the individual puppy, and
Adopting an adult pure breed from the breeder or rescue
Final Thoughts
149
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Welcome to this book
About this book
This book was written for people who want a dog but are allergic to most breeds. It was
written to bring hope to many people who felt that they would never be able to have a dog at
all.
It is designed to take you step by step through the process of choosing the right low allergy
dog.
Introduction
For many people, a dog is an essential part of life. A dog provides these people love, joy
and companionship.
But for many people a dog is not important. They can‘t see the point. And then there are
people who actively avoid dogs because they are afraid of or don‘t like them.
In between these groups there are people who get a dog for various reasons and then find
they have made a poor choice. Or worse still, they lose interest. They‘ve not thought about
the commitment and cost that having a dog entails.
If you‘re ready for a dog, for most people there is a
lot of choice. Many people with a dog allergy give
up on the idea, believing there is nothing for them.
But there are choices, and ways of living with dogs
that make things manageable for most.
You want the right dog. You want a dog that‘s a
companion, to have fun with, and to love and
cherish. You deserve a dog that fits with your
household and lifestyle. But you also need one
which you can live comfortably with, that doesn‘t
trigger your allergy.
So it‘s vital that you get the right help.
'Tara' Copyright Helen Patten, UK
This book contains all the things I‘ve learned about choosing dogs, from my own
experiences and from other people‘s. That includes dog breeders and professional dogshowers, as well as other owners.
Used correctly, this book will help you make the right choice of low allergy dog.
About the author
I was born into a dog family. My mother was raised on a farm, with working sheepdogs. My
father had a Labrador as a child.
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As soon as we children were old enough, my parents bought two Cavalier King Charles
spaniels. These were central to our lives. We also had one litter of Cavalier puppies. So it
was probably inevitable that one or more of us would be
dog crazy.
I couldn't have pets during university or in the early days
of my career. But as soon as I could I went to a rescue
shelter with my partner. We chose a beautiful
Doberman. But she had serious personality issues and
we learned a lot very quickly about the choice we had
made.
After she died, I bought a general breed book and did
some ‗proper‘ homework. At that time we really didn‘t
have the internet resources that we do now, so the breed
book was all I had.
I scrutinised every aspect of my life and drew up a
shortlist. Then we went to rescue and got Missy, a
greyhound, and Jess, a lurcher. I knew I had found ‗my‘
breeds.
My grin's bigger than yours!
Over the years, as well as having between 2 and 4 dogs
myself, I fostered other abandoned and unwanted dogs.
It was here that I learned one essential skill above all others - how to match dogs to the right
owners. And I also learned when to say ‗no‘ to people who could not offer the right home.
I‘ve done a few other dog things as well as these. I sourced the right dog for a friend in
Austria. I had my first litter of puppies in the USA in 2007, all of which are in perfect homes.
Dari & pups, copyright Deb Kidwell, USA
So I‘ve learned a lot about dogs in my life, and specifically how to choose the right ones,
for me and for other people.
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How this book was born
I now have 2 rescued greyhounds and a lurcher. My dogs suit me, and I suit them. We are
bonded by the deepest love and understanding.
But every day, I see many dogs totally mismatched to their owners. Look closely and you‘ll
see them too. The owner and the dog are both unhappy. Because of this, pretty much
every day I end up being asked for help and advice.
So that persuaded me I must write a book about choosing the right dog.
However, I‘ve met people who desperately wanted dogs, but had dog allergies. Or they had
friends, family or relatives who were allergic and felt they couldn‘t have one. But there are
low allergy breeds which many people can live with.
This made me realise that there was no e-book dedicated to choosing the right low allergy
dog. Until now.
My commitment to you
I can‘t promise that every single thing you need to consider is in this book. There are always
special circumstances for every household, or person. But in your hands, you have the only
e-book specifically dealing with choosing a low allergy dog.
In this book you‘ll find out how to make your choice run smoothly, by learning:
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The other mistakes people make – and you want to avoid
Whether you‘re ready to have a dog in the first place
How dogs evolved and what the breed group says about them
Which are the low allergy breeds available, and their characteristics.
How to shortlist breeds which work for you,
What causes dog allergies
How to test each breed against your allergy,
How to find a good breeder and choose a good puppy
I am committed to helping you find that companion who will share a lasting bond with you
that‘s as deep as with any other family member.
I believe that if you use this book with honesty about your needs, wants and circumstances,
then you will find that perfect low allergy dog.
My pledge to you is that if you do not agree, I will refund what you have paid with no
quibbles. All you have to do is tell me within 1 year of purchase.
Life with dogs is fabulous – if you get the right
one or ones, and if you‘re ready for that
commitment. There‘s nothing quite like
snuggling up on the sofa with a hairy, adoring
lump, who‘s gazing at you with big soft brown
eyes. Or strolling through the woodlands in
spring with 4 other eager feet at your side.
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I hope you find the journey into to dog ownership and beyond easy, enjoyable and
successful with my help. Having the right low allergy dog – or dogs - is one of the finest
experiences you can imagine.
To your success!
Bev
Beverley Nash
P.S I am always looking to improve the information in my e-books. So your feedback and
testimonials are warmly encouraged. If there‘s anything missing you‘d like me to include, or
any other comments, just get in touch. Questions as you go through the process are
welcome too. So please contact me at:
www.howtochooseyourdog.com
bev@howtochooseyourdog.com
'Royal Blue', copyright R Sharman, UK
Beverley lives in Buckinghamshire in the UK with her ex-racing greyhounds Blue and Vinnie,
and her lurcher Kylah. She enjoys writing, developing her website, dogs, lots of walking and
spending time with her long term partner Robin.
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Chapter 1 – Myth Busting
In this chapter
Before you start the journey into dog ownership, it‘s
important to dispel some of the common myths which lead
people to make a mistake.
In this first chapter we look briefly at some of these. I‘ve
called them ‘16 Big Fat Lies‘. They apply just as much, if
not more so, to low allergy dogs.
Although this was in my free report, it‘s SO important that
I‘ve gone over it again to remind you.
Big Fat Lie #1 – It doesn’t matter if I bend the truth a bit
False. Most people get swept away by the moment. They bend the truth to try and make
things fit. Have you ever done this with something else and learned the hard way? Imagine
going for an interview and making up some qualifications. You‘re then given the job and
later your employer finds out you lied to them. You‘d be really in trouble.
The same applies to choosing a dog. I can‘t stress how important it is to be really, REALLY
honest about what you can give to a dog. Remember you‘re entering into a commitment for
10-15 years, possibly longer. Putting the dog in rescue or returning it to the breeder after 2
months isn‘t fair to you, and more importantly, to the dog you‘ve chosen. You need to be
brutally honest about your circumstances, then the dog you get will fit your life and you‘ll
have a harmonious household.
Big Fat Lie #2 – Getting a dog won’t affect my life. I’ll still be able to do
everything I currently do.
False. Your dog will depend on you for everything. Its entire life revolves around you. This
means that in everything you decide to do from the time your dog comes home, you‘ll need
to think of them first.
Want to go on holiday? Who will care for the dog? Dog sitters and kennels are often very
busy at peak times and some need to be booked months in advance. If you don‘t get dog
care, you don‘t go on holiday. No more ‗last minute flight‘ deals with a dog to consider,
unless you have very amenable in-laws or extremely helpful kennels.
Want to go for a night out? Fine, but no more impromptu overnight stays or the dog could
shred your carpet in its anxiety, soil the house or who knows what else.
To work successfully with dog ownership, before you even get to choose your dog, you need
to recognise that life will change and start adjusting to that.
Big Fat Lie # 3 - It’s better to get a puppy than an adult dog.
False. It depends on you.
Puppies are very trainable and you can teach them the way you would like things to be. But
many adult ‗cast-offs‘ easily slot into a new house and quickly learn new rules.
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A puppy is a baby with fur - constantly demanding, noisy and messy. And this situation will
last for at least 12 months, possibly longer depending on what breed you choose. You can‘t
expect to go out to work 8 hours a day and leave a puppy at home to fend for itself. Puppies
need socialisation and care for most of the day. They need to be taught the rules, fed
frequently and let out to toilet regularly.
An adult dog on the other hand can often come partially, or even wholly trained. It will also
usually be much more amenable to being left for short periods (for example half a day or
even a whole day, or when you want an evening out). You may want to look into an older
dog‘s background to see what its experience is or is not with children and/or other pets, but
on the whole, an adult dog can adapt well to a new safe environment.
So it‘s not always true that a puppy is better. Sometimes it is. Other times it most definitely
isn‘t. You need to think about whether you have the time, energy, availability and patience
to commit to a puppy.
Big Fat Lie # 4 – It doesn’t matter if I buy the first puppy that comes
along
False. Impulse buying of any live animal is NEVER a good idea.
If you‘ve worked out what breed you like, you‘ll be all enthusiastic about going to get one. If
you haven‘t, then you‘re going to get yourself into really hot water. Rushing off to the first
breeder who has something cute for sale is not necessarily going to get you the right
outcome. You need to find a responsible breeder with good quality, healthy puppies that
match your needs. How do you KNOW that‘s what you‘ve got?
Don‘t buy on impulse. Take your time – it will pay off in the end.
There‘s more about getting the right breeder in Chapters 6 and 7.
Big Fat Lie # 5 – If I like the look of the puppy, it’ll work out
False. Choosing on looks is a big risk. This is one of the top reasons for dogs ending up in
rescue centres across the world. You need to make sure that any dog is suitable for your
whole lifestyle. If you choose a great looking car but don‘t pay any attention to how much it
costs to run, how reliable it is or whether the family can fit into it, you‘ve bought a problem!
A great looking dog which doesn‘t fit your lifestyle will be a disaster and you will end up
hating it. A less pretty dog that blends with your household is a recipe for lasting love.
Don‘t go on looks alone. They don‘t tell you the whole story. You need to look beneath the
surface to find a dog you can really connect with. A dog that ―fits‖ your life and home will
become the most beautiful dog to you.
Big Fat Lie # 6 – If friends have one, and I like it, it’s right for me
False. Don‘t assume just because they have one of ‗those‘ that it‘s right for you. You will
rarely know the full lifestyle of your friends. Also different breeders do produce slightly
different dogs. So if you went and bought one of ‗those‘ from the first breeder that came
along, you could end up with something very different.
If friends have a dog you like you could always test drive it. They might let you borrow it for
a week, or look after it while they are on holiday. Unless you‘re very fortunate, that week will
usually reveal some things you weren‘t expecting.
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Big Fat Lie # 7 – I heard from someone that......
False. Beware of people whose knowledge isn‘t first hand. Opinions are not facts. Going
just on hearsay could mean you end up with completely the wrong choice. It‘s a bit like
choosing a dog a friend or neighbour has, only one step further removed.
Remember, the further you are removed from the source of the advice, the more doubtful it
is likely to be.
Big Fat Lie # 8 – It’s best to go for a popular breed
False. Dogs go through phases. Sometimes certain breeds or specially bred crosses
become very popular.
Just because a dog is ‗the in thing‘ does not mean it suits everyone. It just means a lot of
people have them. A few because it is the right breed for them – sadly, most because it
seemed like the thing to do.
People who are really good at choosing dogs don‘t follow fashion. In fact sometimes they
might choose the least fashionable dog there is. Getting a fashionable dog only works when
it‘s the right one for you in the first place.
Big Fat Lie # 9 – One medium dog is much like another
False. This problem tends to affect people who are looking for a certain size of dog to fit a
space in their house – whether it‘s small, medium or large.
Dogs vary hugely in personality, energy levels, coat length and whole host of other things –
even within a ‗size‘ bracket. Not appreciating how different the breeds can be, and how that
suits you, is a big cause of dogs ending up in rescue.
Again using the ‗car‘ analogy, you wouldn‘t assume that two ‗medium-sized‘ family saloons
from Mercedes and Ford were the same to operate, would you? No. There would be a lot of
differences – price, performance, space, and so on.
So don‘t assume because you have the space for a dog of a certain size, picking any dog of
that size will work. It won‘t. You have to have the right household for it.
Big Fat Lie # 10 – Small dogs need less exercise than big ones
False. Some of the biggest dogs are laid back, gentle giants. Some of the smaller ones are
busy, assertive and noisy. This particularly affects terriers, which were originally bred as
working dogs.
This mistake often impacts on older people and those with limited mobility. They, or their
family, choose a small dog thinking that it won‘t need much looking after. The dog gets out
infrequently, not for very long, or not at all. It then amuses itself by chewing things or
barking constantly at everything which goes past the window.
Some small dogs do have low exercise needs, but so do some large ones too. So before
you opt for a small dog, look at its background and tendencies, because you might find it‘s
not as good a fit as you thought.
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Big Fat Lie # 11 – Bitches (females) are easier to live with than dogs
(males)
False. It depends on the dog. Some dogs are laid back, others aren‘t. Likewise with
bitches. Even within the same litter there will be personality differences.
Avoid believing sweeping generalisations like ‗all bitches are easier to live with‘. There are
exceptions to every rule. You need to look at each individual dog‘s personality and decide if
that‘s going to suit you.
Big Fat Lie # 12 – If it won a dog show it must be a great breed
False. A dog show only tells you which dog most closely meets the breed standard. The
vast majority of the breed standard is about the way the dog looks. It‘s not about the way
the dog acts. Look carefully on your national Kennel Club website and see how much time
is spent assessing temperament. Not much – usually a paragraph. There are then a couple
of pages which describe the physical characteristics.
As we‘ve already seen, a great looking dog could be a disaster if it doesn‘t fit your lifestyle.
Dog show judges are trained to be ―all-breed‖ judges who specialize in toy, working, terrier,
etc. When they judge a breed, they may not be ―experts‖ in that particular breed. This
means that the dog chosen balances the representation of that breed with its performance in
the ring.
Show dogs have been trained to behave in a specific way. This is often not the way they are
in real life!
A dog show tells you nothing about personality or suitability for different households. But
people interpret the judge‘s decision as ‗this must be the best dog‟. Then lots of people go
and get puppies and 12 months later the rescues are swamped with ‗returns‘.
Big Fat Lie # 13 – They’ll come round to the idea
False. If you want a dog and no-one else does, you‘re in for a horrible time.
You need to make sure that the other people who share your life are as full on with the dog
idea as you are. Otherwise getting a dog will be doomed to failure. There will be times
when you will need help. If no-one gives it who will you turn to? Dogs pick up on
atmospheres and will get very distressed. What if other members of the family ignore, pick
on or abuse the dog because they don‘t like it?
It also goes without saying that if you are all keen on the idea of having a dog, you also need
to agree which breed to get.
Big Fat Lie # 14 – The kids will help
False. Kids are very fickle things. Once the novelty of having a dog‘s worn off, the parents
will take all the responsibility. You can‘t rely on the kids to do this, at any age, and especially
in their teens. The only exception to this is if you have a child who knows early on that they
want to work with dogs as a career. In that case, you‘ll be a lucky parent.
So don‘t get a dog for the kids, unless you really like dogs and are totally happy to do ALL
the work anyway.
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Big Fat Lie # 15 – Any breeder of that dog will be ok
False.
Imagine you‘re about to buy a sofa. What do you do?
You go round a whole host of shops looking at the makes, models and prices. You speak to
goodness knows how many sales people and ask a lot of questions. You find out what
credit options they have, what other materials the sofa comes in, how long it‘s guaranteed
for and so on. Only after all that do you decide which sofa to buy and which company to buy
it from.
When choosing a dog, the breeder replaces the ‗sofa company‘ part. You need to look at
the breeder‘s ‗specifications‘ and ‗grill‘ them just as you would when buying that nice new
sofa.
You also need to know how to find a responsible breeder. You have to be thorough. It will
pay dividends. All this is covered in Chapters 6 and 7.
Big Fat Lie # 16 - A cross between a low allergy breed and a ‘not low
allergy’ breed will be low allergy
False! Many people have been caught out by this one. In the breeding, genes fly around at
random. You might get all the low allergy characteristics of one parent and be lucky. But
you could just as easily get none, and have all kinds of problems.
You only have to look at dog forums to find people who‘ve been sold puppies that turned out
not to be low allergy. They‘ve been persuaded by an unscrupulous breeder that putting a
low allergy dog and a ‗not low allergy‘ one together will be ok. In some cases the breeder
might just be someone who‘s had a litter and not had a clue what they‘re doing really. Then
the poor owner has developed itchy eyes, a runny nose and other allergic symptoms and
had to give the dog up.
Even a cross between two low allergy breeds might not be for you. It depends on how you
react to each of the ‗pure‘ breeds. Do you want to play ‗Russian Roulette‘ with your health?
In the book we look at this in more depth.
Key points
Honesty – with yourself, and others, is vital
Getting a dog will change your life and your routines
You must choose on more than looks alone
Do your own research – don‘t go on third hand information or dog show results
‗Popular‘ breed does not equal ‗best‘ breed for you
Getting a dog for the kids only works if the kids are totally committed to walking,
feeding, grooming and taking a full part too
7. Not all breeders (and therefore dogs) are equal
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Summary
Hopefully this chapter has given you some things to think about. It‘s looked at the most
common Big Fat Lies (mistakes) which lead people to make poor choices of dog.
There‘s so much more to learn. And that‘s what we are going to do. In the next chapter we
look at how you can decide if you‘re ready for a dog in the first place.
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Chapter 2 – Are you ready for a dog?
In this chapter
In this chapter we examine whether you are ready to have a dog. This chapter will explain
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why that question is so important
the sub-questions you need to answer first, before you dive into looking at low
allergy dog breeds
a way of recording and analysing your answers, and
a worked example of how that could look.
Should you have a dog?
‗Should I have a dog?‘ is the first and most important question you need to be asking. This
is vital if you‘re thinking about any dog. It‘s even more so if you are choosing a low allergy
dog.
Low allergy breeds can sometimes be expensive to buy and more
difficult to find. You might even have to import one from another
country. They might need special health care arrangements, special
diets, or have particular equipment/clothing requirements. If you go
to all this effort and then find you‘re not actually ready for a dog, you
will have wasted a lot of cost and time.
Of course there is also the dog to consider too. Ready or not, the dog
will still love you just as much. It won‘t understand why you‘ve given
it away, or had to place it in a rescue shelter/foster home.
So before you start looking at a list of low allergy breeds, you need to
be totally honest with yourself about the type of home you can offer.
Lhasa Apso
Or even if you really can offer a home in the first place.
The questions that follow will help you find out whether you should have a dog.
Remember, there are no right or wrong answers. But you must be honest. Don‘t fudge the
answers because you‘ve already perhaps seen a breed you like the look of and you want to
make it ‗fit‘. Ultimately, living with that breed will reveal whether it was a fudge too far.
If you find you don‘t have the right environment now, don‘t despair. Our circumstances
change all the time. Next week, next month, or next year might be completely different.
Why is this important?
There are some very important questions which will help you decide whether you should
have a dog or not. There are no right or wrong answers. There are also no ‗killer questions‘
– questions which if you answer ‗no‘ to mean you definitely aren‘t ready.
Your answers to all of these questions are important to get your general picture. Mostly ‗no‘
or ‗uncertain‘ types of answers means you‘re not ready – yet. More ‗yes‘ and ‗probably‘
answers means that, on balance, you could be ok.
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At the end of this chapter I‘ve set out a possible way of recording your answers, and shown
you how that might look. First of all, just go through each of these, take your time and make
a few rough notes.
Then you can transfer your final answers to the template if you wish.
Does your family agree?
If you‘re on your own then there is only you to consider. But if you have a family that makes
things more complicated.
If you‘re all set and the rest of your family are dead against, you‘re probably onto a losing
streak. It‘s no use getting a dog in the hope that your family will come round to the idea. If
anything, the stress of having a dog that not everyone wants usually makes things worse.
Dogs are very sensitive and will very quickly pick up atmospheres. Even if no word has
been spoken, a dog will know if people are unhappy, or angry. They might become
stressed, cowering, or afraid. It is not fair to anyone, including the dog, to bring it into a
household where there isn‘t agreement.
You must discuss things with your family and make sure that everyone is at least ok with
owning a dog. Even if you are going to do most of the work, there will be some times when
you will need helping out. If no-one agrees, who will help you?
Will you change your routines?
Dogs need and like a routine. They like to know when its walk time, feeding time, bed time
and so on. Wild packs have routines – get up, hunt, eat (if you‘re lucky), sleep, get up, hunt,
eat, sleep.....
Having a dog is like having a child. That‘s especially true if you get a puppy rather than
adopt an adult dog. Your way of doing things will have to change. You will have to adjust
your routines for a dog. You will usually have to get up earlier in the morning to walk it
before work, and at weekends. You might have to come home during your lunch hour to
attend to it. You might have to commit to regular dog training classes.
So are you prepared to think of your dog first in all your routines and change them to ensure
your dog is catered for?
Will you always put your dog first?
Once you‘ve committed to a dog, they rely on you for everything. You can‘t expect a dog to
feed itself, take itself for a walk, or let itself out when it wants to toilet.
Like having a child, you will have to think of the dog first before you make any decision. No
more short notice holidays if you can‘t find a dog sitter or kennel space. No more impromptu
overnight stays away from home after a night out with friends. Can you live with that? How
does this affect your decisions and your life from now on?
Are you getting it for someone else?
This sounds like a silly question, but it‘s not. Many people give in to pleading from kids or a
partner. If you ‗get a dog for the kids‘ you can be pretty sure that after a few weeks they will
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have lost interest. They won‘t want to help with feeding, walking, grooming or anything else.
That is unless you are fortunate enough to have a child who is devoted to dogs or wants to
become a vet.
So unless you‘re already devoted to the idea of a dog yourself and are fine with doing all the
work, don‘t get a dog ‗for the kids‘.
You should never, ever, buy a dog for someone else as a present. Even if that person is
someone you share a house or your life with. You have no idea how that will be received.
And you may not fully understand their lifestyle or preferences.
If you are thinking of getting a dog for someone else – DON‘T.
Can you afford the cost?
A dog costs more than just the time you invest. You have to purchase one. Most people
who require a low allergy dog will find one as a puppy. That‘s quite expensive. If you can
find a suitable adult dog through breed rescue they still require a donation.
Then there are all the other costs:
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Food
Leads/collars/coats
Dog guard/crates for house or car, or even buying a bigger car!
Beds and bedding
Increased frequency of house cleaning and washing
Damaged furniture/carpets (yours or someone else‘s)
Grooming and nail clipping
Training classes
Pet insurance
Vets bills – routine vaccinations, and emergency medical treatment
Dog sitter/dog walker/kennel fees
Burial or cremation
Maintenance medication: flea treatment, heartworm prevention, vitamins
House maintenance : Fencing, locks, gates or doggy doors to prepare your home for
its newest member.
Many of these are ongoing costs. You need to be clear whether you can afford to feed,
clothe and care for the dog adequately. You need to add up all of these costs and work out
how much per month it will cost. Use friends who are general dog owners to find out roughly
how much this comes to. Then ask ‗do I have spare money in the bank account to cover
this?‘
Also you will need to make sure you budget for emergencies on top of the routine costs.
Most pet insurance schemes reimburse covered treatment, but they don‘t pay up front!
Are you prepared to sign a contract?
Responsible breeders will ask you to fill in a questionnaire about you and your lifestyle
before they even consider you for a dog. If you‘re not ready for that, think again. It‘s their
way of making sure that you are right for their puppies, and that their puppies are right for
you.
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After that, responsible breeders will ask you to sign a contract of ownership. This sets out
their rights and yours, and how they expect the dog to be cared for.
It‘s especially important with low allergy dogs, as they can be expensive and more difficult to
find, and might need special considerations. The breeder will want to make sure that all of
these are covered. You need to be prepared for this, and willing to accept the breeder‘s
conditions.
If you decide to look at a rescue or shelter for your low-allergy dog, they will typically require
you to sign a contract as well. Most rescues also do an in-depth home check to verify you
can provide an appropriate home.
Do you have enough space?
You will need to make sure you have adequate space in your house and garden for a dog.
If you have a flat with a balcony or just a window box that might be a problem. Though there
are some smaller dogs that make good apartment dogs.
If you have a small cottage and it‘s already crammed with people, is it appropriate to add a
dog into the crowd? Do you have garden or yard space enough for your dog to run about
and let off steam?
You need to look around your home and assess whether you have any area where you can
permanently put an average-sized dog bed and a water bowl. You need to look at your
garden or yard area and ask if it is big enough. Again, friends with dogs can help you
assess that.
Will you provide a secure garden or yard?
Dogs need securely fenced gardens or yards to prevent escape or accidents. If the dog is
left free to roam, it can get onto other neighbouring property and cause a nuisance, including
killing livestock and other pets. It can also get into the road and cause an accident. In both
cases you could be sued for compensation.
This can mean a serious investment of money - a factor that needs to be considered before,
not after, you get a dog.
The fence should be high enough to prevent escape by jumping. It should also be closely
structured enough to stop burrowing under or squeezing between the posts.
If you are thinking of getting a dog and don‘t have a secure yard, you need to check whether
you can actually have one.
In some housing developments or areas there can be restrictions on the types and heights of
fences that are permitted. This could seriously limit your choice of dog. If you are only
allowed a fence 1 metre tall, you might only be able to have a small dog, one which doesn‘t
challenge boundaries, or doesn‘t jump up.
In some developments you might even not be allowed a fence at all. It‘s important to check
this out thoroughly.
Putting your dog on a long chain or rope is not an alternative to having a securely fenced
area. Dogs don‘t have the brains to disentangle themselves. They can easily be killed or
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injured this way. They can die even when the owners are actually on the property, or injure
themselves getting to the end of the rope at full speed after a cat, rabbit or squirrel.
Will the dog live inside, with you?
Wolves and wild dogs live in packs. They are companion animals with their own kind. They
like being in groups. They get strength from living in groups too – so they can hunt more
effectively, look after each other, feed each other and raise pups.
Dogs still want and need a ‗pack‘. They need companionship. This pack is you and your
family if you have one.
Dogs bred to be pets, but kept in an outside kennel or run can become lonely, depressed
and destructive. They can become a nuisance to neighbours. Your pet should be part of the
family and housed indoors. If you are not prepared to give your dog that safe, warm
environment, then you need to think carefully about whether it is right to take on a dog.
There are also other circumstances which might make it difficult for the dog to live as part of
the family. These include rented accommodation where the landlord might require outside
kennelling, or flats where the terms exclude pets. Some landlords might also have size
restrictions on dogs. Do these apply to you? If the answer is yes, then you should ideally
wait until you can have the dog indoors.
Will you exercise your dog?
Do you have the interest and energy to walk your dog at least once a day? Can you commit
to giving it whatever exercise it needs? Can you commit to doing that every day, come rain
or shine, even when you‘re feeling ill, or had a hard day at work?
If you really want and are ready for a dog, you‘ll go out no matter what. And you‘ll look
forward to it. Even when it‘s bad weather, you‘ll just throw on the waterproofs and both have
fun sloshing through the puddles.
Do you have somewhere you can exercise a dog?
Look around you. Are you in a place where you can exercise a dog? And what sort of
exercise is it? Can you let them run off lead or is it lead walking on city pavements? In
some country areas it still might be difficult to exercise a dog because there might not be any
public footpaths you can use.
Have a good look at your environment. Get out maps of the local area. Decide if you have
the facilities for proper exercise.
Will you spend time with your dog?
Dogs don‘t just need a walk. Dogs need companionship, which means time with you for
training, play in the garden, being just around and curling up indoors in front of the TV. They
don‘t have to be on your lap or in your face to have the attention they need. Regular patting
and even just talking to them will also assure them of your love.
If you can give the dog time for its walks, but you‘re not going to provide this kind of love in a
more general sense, you need to consider whether it really is right to have one.
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Are you prepared to train your dog?
An untrained dog is a nuisance. It‘s a nuisance to you, to other people and other dogs. You
must be prepared to put time into training. Whether that‘s housetraining and dealing with
puddles/marks on the carpet, walking well on a lead, coming to recall or behaving nicely with
visitors, you will need to commit time and effort.
This could involve dog training, obedience classes or specialist behavioural work. If you
choose a low allergy ‗working‘ breed which has high energy levels, you might have to do
some agility or field working training with it so it doesn‘t get bored.
Will you truly put in the time needed to have a well trained and well socialised dog?
Can you deal with the noise?
Most dogs bark. It‘s a fact. Can you cope with that or will barking, even occasionally, drive
you mad? Dogs also don‘t just bark during the day. If they hear noises at night, they might
also bark. They can also howl or whine, especially if you leave them (even sometimes to go
into the next room).
And how will your neighbours feel or react? Living in city or built up areas means you need
to be very sensitive to the people around you. This is true even in villages in the country. A
barking dog can cause a lot of annoyance. In extreme cases it could get you into trouble
with civic authorities.
And don‘t forget, dogs don‘t move about silently. That means you will hear the clatter of
claws, scampering noises and other sounds which accompany living with a small hairy
creature.
Unless you‘re fortunate enough to live miles away from anyone, you need to consider the
effect of the noise your dog will make, on you, and other people.
Are you going to make sure your dog isn’t alone for long periods?
If you work full time and there is no-one at home your dog could become bored, anxious and
destructive. It might also soil the house. What happens if you are on your own and regularly
away on business?
Dogs need routine and companionship. A dog walker/dog sitter is a great way for many
working dog lovers to own a dog. Kennelling for business trips works well if you have more
than one dog. But a single dog which is used to your company and then goes into a kennel
on its own might pine and stop eating.
You need to factor this into your costs. Ask local kennels and dog sitters about their charges
and see if you can afford it.
Will you be prepared to make appropriate arrangements for your dog to be cared for while
you are at work or away? Would you and could you pay for a dog sitter/dog walker and
kennels?
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Will you clean up after your dog?
In public and city areas you must clean up after your dog. You might be required by law to
do this or be fined. Are you ready to scoop the poop and be responsible for keeping parks
and public areas clean?
What about your garden? Are you prepared for your garden, or a part of it, to become a dog
toilet? You will need to go out daily and ‗mine sweep‘, especially if you have children and at
any time you are expecting visitors.
Are you prepared for the need to clean your house more frequently? Even low allergy dogs
do shed the occasional hair, or bits of skin, or the odd drool spot. But more importantly they
will leave muddy footprints on your floors, and their bedding will need to be washed.
Even low allergy dogs should be bathed on a regular basis or they too can become stinky.
But giving your dog a bath about once a month will also ensure that any loose hair or skin is
removed to keep allergies at bay.
But it‘s not just dog stuff that will need to be washed or cleaned up. With a dog allergy, it‘s
really important that if you do get a dog, your home is kept scrupulously clean. Otherwise
allergens will build up to unacceptable levels. This means washing your own bedding and
clothes more often, and shampooing carpets regularly. Can you manage a more frequent
cleaning regime?
Will you act responsibly if your circumstances change?
If your circumstances alter and you cannot keep the dog, or you can‘t give it what it
deserves, what will you do?
Acting responsibly means making sure that the dog goes somewhere which will increase its
chances of being homed successfully. Just passing the dog to a friend could lead to it being
passed on again and again through unsuitable owners.
The breeder might require the dog comes back to them. If your breeder is a long way away,
including overseas, are you prepared to travel with your dog, or make arrangements for and
pay the cost of shipping?
The other best alternative is through a rescue centre or breed specialist organisation.
However, many of these require a donation towards their costs for taking the dog in.
Are you ready for a long-term commitment?
Getting a dog is a 10-15 year commitment. Are you ready to put the dog first, feed it, look
after it, train it and be with after it becomes old and infirm, right to the end?
Dogs get discarded every day because people under-estimate the commitment. Or they
hand the dog to a rescue when it gets old and they can‘t be bothered with its health issues.
Dogs are fun, and highly rewarding, but there is hard work and heartache in the mix too. Are
you prepared to deal with a dog‘s ups and downs in your stride, for the rest of its life?
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Are you truly a dog person?
This is left till last because, if all else is balanced, this will decide the outcome.
What‘s your instinctive reaction if a dog, any dog, comes bounding towards you? Do you
talk to it fondly? Does it matter if it jumps up and muddies your trousers in its enthusiasm?
Or do you ignore it, dodge it or walk away?
You should not make the mistake of thinking your reaction will be different with your own
dog. It can be – to a degree. There will be breeds you don‘t particularly like the look of.
And having a dog allergy means that you do have to be much more careful about handling
dogs in public situations. But your instinctive reaction to dogs will be the deciding factor.
The next step
Now that you‘ve been through this chapter, you‘ve had a little time to think about some of
your answers. It‘s now time to answer the questions properly.
To help you collect your thoughts and answers all the questions have been placed in a
simple table at the end of this chapter. This gives you a very simple framework for working
out if the answer to ‗should you have a dog?‘ is a yes, a no or a maybe. I‘ve also included a
small column for notes so you can jot down any relevant factors. At the bottom of the table is
a row for you to total your scores.
If you like, and it will help, simply print out the table and scribble into it. When you‘ve
finished, you can use the scores and your notes to look at, on balance, whether you should
have a dog.
After the blank table I‘ve included a completed one as an example, and the outcome of what
that table shows. This should help you when you come to look at your answers and decide if
you‘re ready.
Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
Honesty about your home and environment is the key
Working through all the questions will give you the ‗right‘ answer
Each question on its own is part of the bigger picture – don‘t skip
If you‘re not ready now, take heart because things change!
Summary
In this chapter you‘ve learned
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why asking ‗am I ready for a dog‘ is so important
what the sub-questions were that you needed to answer first
how to record and analyse your answers, and
whether you are ready to have a dog
If you are, it‘s time to move on. In the next chapter, we look at what kind of questions you
need ask about your life, to match you to the right breeds.
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Table 1 – Should you have a dog?
Question
Yes
No
Uncertain
Notes
Do your family agree?
Will you change your
routines for the dog?
Will you think of your dog
first before yourself?
Are you getting it for
someone else?
Are you prepared to sign
a contract?
Do you have enough
space?
Page | 22
Question
Yes
No
Uncertain
Notes
Will you provide a secure
garden or yard?
Will the dog live inside
with you?
Will you exercise your
dog?
Do you have somewhere
you can exercise a dog?
Will you spend time with
your dog?
Are you prepared to train
your dog?
Can you deal with the
noise?
Are you going to make
sure your dog isn‘t alone
for long periods?
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Question
Yes
No
Uncertain
Notes
Will you clean up after
your dog?
Will you act responsibly if
your circumstances
change?
Are you ready for a 10-15
year commitment?
Are you truly a dog
person?
Total scores
Overall Assessment
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Table 1 – Should you have a dog? Worked example
Question
Yes
No
Do your family agree?
Uncertain
X
Notes
Don‘t live with family – live on own, but family visit frequently. Unsure of reaction. Need
to discuss.
Yes, would think of the dog. Already talking to work about changing routines and
looking for training classes.
Am already making changes or potential changes. Dog would definitely come first.
Will you change your
routines for the dog?
Will you think of your dog
first before yourself?
Are you getting it for
someone else?
X
Are you prepared to sign
a contract?
Do you have enough
space?
Will you provide a secure
garden or yard?
Will the dog live inside
with you?
Will you exercise your
dog?
Do you have somewhere
you can exercise a dog?
X
Will you spend time with
your dog?
Are you prepared to train
your dog?
Can you deal with the
noise?
X
Mainly city living, not much open space nearby. Would prefer somewhere to let off
lead. Look for somewhere closer to parks in long term? Will take dog on holidays to
country though.
Looking forward to curling up in front of TV with it in evenings!
X
Can‘t wait to get started! Already got training treats and lead from a friend.
X
No – just me.
X
X
Money set aside for puppy cost $800 - $1500. Average monthly cost of care/insurance
$120 ish. Budgeted for. Can afford.
Yes – want breeder to be responsible too.
X
Depends on size of dog which suits. Ok for small/medium I think.
X
Small back garden already fenced. However 4ft high so will replace if necessary
X
Worked out where bed could go and food bowls
X
Active jogger/cyclist/walker
X
X
Depends on dog. Would prefer quiet to very quiet, especially as have old neighbours.
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Question
Are you going to make
sure your dog isn‘t alone
for long periods?
Will you clean up after
your dog?
Will you act responsibly if
your circumstances
change?
Are you ready for a 10-15
year commitment?
Are you truly a dog
person?
Total scores
Yes
No
Uncertain
X
X
X
Talking to work about changing routines. If can‘t come home at lunch, then will look at
cost of dog sitter/walker midday. Need to re-look at budget if this happens as nothing in
for walking at moment.
I think so but will take a bit of getting used to. Can you get biodegradable poo bags?
Dog will go to breeder or to rescue. Will have to make donation.
X
Love dogs but it‘s a big thing to take on. Need to think about whether I‘m ready.
Love dogs. Just the allergy that‘s holding me back a bit.
X
11
Notes
1
7
Overall assessment
On balance I‘m ready for a dog, but just a bit uncomfortable with the long term commitment and whether my family will agree. Also work
changes might be a deciding factor. I think I‘ve worked out I might need a smallish, low-noise dog that‘s moderately active.
If I can overcome work issues and their family are supportive, there is every chance!
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Chapter 3 - What do you need from a dog?
Introduction
In this chapter we will look at
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why it‘s important to find out what you need from a dog
how to go about the task
what questions to ask about your lifestyle and home
what questions to ask about the type of dog you‘d prefer
how to bring that all together in a ‗dog shopping list‘.
At the end of this chapter there is a simple form you can use to record your answers. There
is also a completed example for reference. Remember you should take time to consider
these issues carefully. If you are thinking of bringing a dog into a family situation, or where
more than one person is in the household, then it would be sensible to get their views and
involve them in the process.
This is a possible 15 year commitment. You owe it to yourself and your dog to get it right.
That‘s why this chapter goes into these issues in some depth. Once you have done this
properly, short listing possible breeds is much easier and quicker.
Why it’s important to find out what you need
In the first section, you thought about whether you would
provide a good home, and if you should have a dog at all.
Hopefully you now know you can provide a loving, secure
home.
Now it‘s time to think about what you want and need from your
companion.
If you‘ve never had a dog before, this means doing two things.
The first is thinking about your household and lifestyle in much
more detail. The second is thinking about what attributes you
would prefer in your dog.
Once you‘ve done this, you can start matching your outcomes
to the different low allergy breeds available.
Maltese
However choosing the right dog (any dog) is not just a matter of
what looks good. You might have seen something you like, but
if it‘s high energy and you own a flat, that‘s a recipe for disaster.
This chapter gives you some pointers on what questions you should ask about the type of
home you can offer. You have to make sure that your allergy level, resources, lifestyle and
preferences are clearly identified. Then you can start matching these to a shortlist of breeds
which might work best for you.
It‘s important to do this because your happiness, and your dog‘s, both depend on how well
you are matched.
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How to go about the task
What follows is a set of questions which you should answer honestly. The clearer and more
truthful you can be now, the better your choice will be at the end. There are no trick or killer
questions. You should take your time over the answers because this will determine how
happy you and your dog are with each other. And we want this to be a 100% match.
You must go through these questions for yourself and really home in on your needs. Then,
and only then, should you start to look at what breeds might be available to you.
Don‘t skip anything. You could simply dive into the breed list and characteristics, but if
you‘ve not thought about your home and allergy level first, you could end up with a disaster.
Far too many dogs end up in rescue this way, and that‘s from people who don‘t have the
special needs that you do.
If you‘re not sure how to answer some of these questions initially, that‘s fine. Just take your
time. But you need to answer these questions for yourself before you go anywhere near a
dog breeder or a pet shop. They (or your children, if you have them) may well persuade you
to make impulse choices which you would later regret.
The list of questions to ask
In this section I‘ve given you the list first. In the next section you will go on to explore the
reasons for these questions and look at how to answer them.
These are the main questions you need to consider:
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On a scale of 1-10, how allergic are you?
Do you live in a city, town or country area?
What type of climate do you live in?
Do you have a busy or a quiet household?
What inside space do you have for a dog?
What size is your garden or yard?
What height/size of dog do you prefer?
What weight do you prefer?
How much time will you spend exercising your dog?
How much time will you spend on grooming?
How much of the time will the dog spend on its own?
How sociable with people does the dog have to be?
o With children
o With visitors
How sociable with animals does the dog need to be
o With livestock
o Other pets
o Other dogs
How trainable should your dog be?
What noise level do you want?
Do you want a dog for a specific purpose?
What level of health do you want?
What lifespan do you want?
How much money can you spend on a puppy/adult dog?
How much you can afford for monthly expenses – feeding, insurance, kennels, dog
sitters etc
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Taking all these into consideration is important if you and your dog are to be properly
matched.
Remember there‘s a form at the end of this chapter which will help you bring all this together.
Do involve the whole family in the process if necessary.
The form asks you at the end to identify what type of dog you think you need. This is really
helpful when we get to looking at the different breeds you can choose from. You‘ll already
have a good idea of what will make a good fit.
How allergic are you?
This is a difficult question. You might know you are allergic but not how allergic.
If you have been through general allergy testing to various things – to find out what you were
allergic to – the tests might have recorded the allergy like this:

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―somewhat‖ allergic (lowest level)
―moderately‖ allergic (in the middle)
―very‖ allergic (highest level)
If you have been through allergy testing, contact your doctor for a record of what you were
tested for. If this is the case and you ever needed your doctor to treat you for a dog allergy,
you could ask them how allergic they would rate you.
If your parents were the ones who discovered the allergy when you were very young, ask
them what they think about the severity of your reactions.
There could be ways of testing the allergy with a ‗normal‘ dog under controlled conditions.
However, you should always make sure that you have the help of your doctor so that you
don‘t severely affect your health while doing this.
However, the chances are that you have come into contact with dogs at some point in the
past so you will know how fast you start to show symptoms and what those are.
This level of reaction will affect what dogs you can choose from. If you have a mild reaction,
then any dogs in the low allergy breed list could be suitable (depending on your lifestyle).
But if you have a severe allergy, then you have a more limited choice.
However, if you are not sure of your true allergy level, use all the other questions to work out
your lifestyle, needs and preferences first. Then use this to review the low allergy dog
breeds available.
Once you have a shortlist, you can test your allergy level against your shortlist. We show
you how to do this in a later chapter.
Do you live in a city, town, or country area?
Some dogs do well in all environments. Some dogs do well even in apartments with small
amounts of exercise. Others will only do well if they have plenty of open green space to run
free in and really let off steam. This goes hand in hand with their energy levels, and yours.
This is why it‘s important to identify what kind of environment you live in. If you live in the
country, you can get a low allergy dog that‘s not bothered about long walks. That‘s fine.
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However, you can‘t do it well the other way round.
Dogs that need free running and open spaces can get very depressed in a city if they only
get road and pavement walks on a lead. They will start to use up their energy on your
household possessions – chewing up sofas, shoes, using your house as a racetrack or even
learning to open cupboards and eating what is in there.
The breed profiles in Chapter 4 help you by identifying those dogs which do well in all
environments and those which need open space and free exercise.
Remember that if you are thinking of one of those ‗country dogs‘, your activity level needs to
match theirs.
What type of climate do you live in?
Just like humans, not all dogs tolerate heat well. Some dogs find it glorious and will dive into
the garden to sunbathe. Other breeds will get very stressed in the heat. The amount of fur,
fat and their heritage can determine how they react. Hairless and crested hairless breeds
can overheat very quickly from the action of sun on their dark skin.
Likewise, some short coated, low body fat and hairless breeds will also suffer badly in cool
and cold climates, even if they have a warm protective waterproof coat (and dog boots).
So fur on dogs can do 2 things – keep them warmer in the cold, but sometimes keep them
cooler in the warm too!
When thinking about what kind of climate you live in, you should think about now and also
into the future. Is a wholesale move a possibility? Some people who work for multinational
companies do have opportunities to move about, or know they could be sent abroad
permanently or on secondment.
If you know or suspect you might move to another country, then try and find a breed that is
adaptable to different conditions. Otherwise, make the choice on where you are likely to be
for the next 5 years or so.
When thinking about the climate you live in, you need to look at the general temperature and
weather for the key seasons. These are winter and summer. All you need to do is jot down
roughly what winter and summer are like.
The dog‘s origins also tell you a lot about what it might be ok with. So for example if you live
in Canada (cold, snow) it might not be wise to choose a dog whose origins are in Africa (hot,
dry).
Do you have a busy or quiet household?
Some dogs just love rough and tumble. They adore liveliness and fun and are usually in the
centre of it, or even causing it. They thrive on more, more, more! They do well in chaos. Is
your household one of these types of places?
Alternatively there are some dogs which are more reserved in their outlook and appreciate
calm. They are less outgoing and less tolerant of children. They can be disinterested in
visitors and prefer to take themselves into a quiet corner. They appreciate their own space
and their own company as much as they appreciate yours.
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The vast majority of dog breeds fall somewhere in between these two extremes. However
you need to identify whether you‘re more on the ‗busy‘ side or the ‗calm‘ one.
What inside space do you have for a dog?
Our recognised domestic breeds of dog have been designed by us for hundreds or
sometimes thousands of years specifically to live with us. Leaving a dog outside the house
to fend for itself is actually going against what they were mostly bred for. So it‘s fairest on
the dog to make sure it can be happily indoors as part of the family unit.
Remember that just because a dog is small does not mean it is less work. Some small dogs
are very active and will take up a lot of space because they are running around all the time.
Conversely some large dogs are very lazy. So while space is important, some dogs will
happily occupy a smaller space than you‘d think would be possible.
So where in the house will you be able to keep the dog?
You need to identify first how much space you have for at least a dog basket, beanbag,
cushion or indoor kennel (crate) that can be permanently in place. As most dog-allergic
people would tend to buy a puppy, you can then train the dog that this is ‗their‘ cosy space
and not to get on the furniture. If you get an adult dog, you should still be able to do the
same if you choose correctly.
Of course if you end up with or prefer a dog that gets on the furniture with you then this
space is less of an issue for you. However, you need to also think of visitors. Some of your
visitors may not like dogs or appreciate them in their lap. So it is always best to identify a
clear ‗dog space‘ where they can go or be placed when people come over.
Then you will need a space for a water bowl to be out for them so they always have access
to a drink. After this, what storage do you have for dog equipment – leads, collars, spare
bedding, coats etc? Finally what space do you have to store dog food – can you buy a large
bag (usually 15 kilos) or several, or are you restricted to smaller bags that will fit into the
kitchen cupboards.
Taking all this into consideration, how much space do you have available? The best way to
do this is to measure your potential dog bed/sleeping area and then make some more
general notes about the other storage space you have. Is it a small area, medium area or
large area? This will help you determine what size of dog you can manage. This might or
might not fit with your preferences.
So if you would prefer a larger dog but only have a small space, you‘ll either have to find an
acceptable smaller dog, or maybe even move house!
What size is your garden or yard?
Outdoor space is just as important as indoor space. Whatever dog you choose, they need to
fit with what you have outside. It‘s no good getting a dog which likes to run about under its
own steam if you have a yard which is only 3 metres by 2 metres.
On another note here – if you are very garden-proud, beware of choosing a dog which likes
to use grassed or flowerbed areas as a racetrack or for hole-digging competitions. You
might have to think about creating a specific hard or paved area for it to run about on.
So jot down what outside space you have e.g. ‗garden is 5 metres x 10 metres‘, with whether
you think that in your experience this is small, medium or large. Also note down any outside
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space other than the garden. For example you might have a covered passageway between
you and your neighbours, or a large roofed verandah. Both of these might be useful as dog
shelter and maybe temporary dog sleeping space, particularly during the summer.
What height/size of dog do you prefer?
Some people know what size of dog they like. Others don‘t have a preference. Most of us
do have something that we feel comfortable with.
It‘s difficult, especially for first time dog owners, to identify what size of dog they would like.
Partly that should be driven by what space you have available in the house and the garden.
But there are many other attributes needed for your perfect low allergy dog. So don‘t feel
you have to be limited by this.
You need to be realistic with what you can handle as well. Here‘s an example:
“ We have customers bring their new puppy or dog to us and sometimes we
would like to thump them. Often elderly ladies will think a larger dog would be
better for them for company and protection. However, they physically can not
handle them to even get them to the point of training.”
„Dog Trainer‟ USA
If you have health issues, also think carefully about how those issues might affect your ability
to handle the dog over the next 10 years.
Have you seen a dog or dogs that you think ‗hmmm – that looks about right‘? If you know
what breeds of dog they are then look up the breed standards using your national Kennel
Club website. These standards will tell you the range of lowest to tallest height to the top of
the shoulder (also known as the withers).
Or you might say ‗I‘m comfortable with something knee height or below‘. So then measure
to your knee.
Try and find a specific height yardstick rather than saying small, medium or large. One
person‘s large could be very different to yours. However the breed information later in this
book does categorise the dogs generally so you can get an immediate idea.
Armed with this you‘ll know roughly what height of dog you like.
When you see dogs, you‘ll probably notice that they are not all the same build. Just like
humans, dogs have different frame sizes. One knee-height dog might be very slight and
slim, whereas another might be chunky.
For some people this isn‘t important. However, think about times when you might have to lift
a dog. These could include if it is injured and can‘t get into the car by itself, or over walls
while out walking, or even things as simple as bathing and home grooming. Does this make
a difference?
So again, have you seen the ‗right height‘ dog which is also a build you like? If you have,
that‘s great. You can check the weight out on your kennel club breed standards and find out
the general weight range that appeals to you. If not, don‘t worry.
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How much time will you spend exercising your dog?
Getting the activity level right, for you and the dog, is vital if you are going to have a longterm and happy relationship.
This is probably THE most important factor of all. It should be the first thing you use
to sift the breeds available to you.
There is absolutely no point choosing a breed which matches all your other criteria, if it
needs 2 hours a day and you can only manage half an hour.
It‘s not possible to emphasise enough the role that exercise plays in having a happy healthy
dog and a harmonious home. Un-exercised dogs become bored, destructive, noisy
nuisances. They have to find ways of letting off steam. If you don‘t control that by
exercising them properly, all the behaviour books in the world aren‘t going to solve your
problem.
Far too many dogs are chosen because they ‗look nice‘ or someone has decided they want
a ‗small dog‘ only to find out that these need far more exercise than the owners have time
for.
On the flip side, a small dog might not be suitable for people with high energy and activity
levels. Some small dogs lap up the miles where others struggle.
It does not follow that small dogs need less exercise than large ones. Just like humans, all
dogs are very different. Some small dogs are ‗working‘ breeds that need a lot of exercise
and stimulation. Some large ones can be very lazy indeed. There are lots of variations, so
you need to look at the amount of exercise you will do, not the size of the dog.
So look at what sort of exercise you do. Is it short bursts or long continuous times? Is it high
impact? Some larger dogs will damage joints doing a lot of running with joggers or cyclists.
So how much walking or exercising with your dog do you have time for every day? Be
specific about this. In your average day, will you have 1 hour, 2 hours, half an hour? And
how of this time will you actually set aside?
That sounds like it‘s asking the same thing, but it‘s not. You might say you have 2 hours per
day available as ‗you‘ time, but in reality does this regularly get eaten up with other
household, family or work issues?
So be on the safe side. Make a note of the maximum and minimum time. Then work on the
minimum level for choosing your dog.
If your minimum is zero, you need to go back to ‗should you have a dog‘ and rethink.
Remember that any dog will generally need at least one decent walk a day to keep it happy.
Two walks a day is better as it reflects wild dogs‘ morning and evening hunting patterns.
How much time will you spend on grooming?
If the answer to this is ‗what‘s grooming?‘, then you probably need a dog with a shorter or
smoother coat!
Grooming is the amount of time in a day or a week that you are happy to spend combing or
brushing knots, twigs and other bits out of your dog‘s coat. Also it‘s time spent shampooing
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out dirt, applying moisturiser/suncream (for hairless breeds) or clipping nails. Some people
love spending time doing this and bonding with their dog into the process. Others don‘t.
Which are you?
Do you want to brush your dog every day, or once a week, or not at all?
If you‘re not into grooming you will be better looking for a dog with a short, straight coat
rather than longer or curly thick coat. Or you might make the decision that it doesn‘t matter
what type of coat the dog has because you can afford to have it professionally groomed as
often as needed.
However, you might also have a preference for the type of coat you like. Do you like very
short coated dogs, or even hairless dogs? Do you like a curly coat or a straight and smooth
one?
Make sure you are clear about what time you want to spend washing and brushing your dog,
and what type of coat you like.
Whether you‘ve got a hairless, short, medium or long coated dog, a person with allergies
should commit to bathing their dog at least once a month. It might have to be significantly
more often. Dogs pick up allergens from outside – grass, pollen, spores – which they then
bring into your home. Dogs are closer to the ground are going to be in these allergens more.
How much time will the dog spend alone?
This question is really ‗how much time will the dog spend on its own when there is no-one
else in the house‘.
Firstly, if you are planning on a puppy, then you should not be leaving any puppy alone for
long periods. A puppy is just a baby with fur. It needs to be socialised, trained, walked and
taught to toilet outside. It needs company for most of the day as it is growing up. At about 6
months, it should be old enough to be left for short periods of say 2-4 hours at a time. Your
puppy will need to be trained to accept periods without you as it is growing up.
If you cannot do that then you should go back to ‗should I have a dog‘ and rethink. However,
if you think you will otherwise provide a great home, you will need to pay for a dog sitter or
some form of doggy day care. There are people who will look after a puppy and train it for
you when you are at work, but they are not cheap.
If you find an adult dog from a rescue or a breeder, then it might already be accustomed to
periods on its own. But you will need to put some work in so it understands and accepts
your routines.
Some breeds are more amenable to being left than others. It‘s an important question which
you should ask breeders when you have your shortlist.
How sociable with people does the dog have to be?
This is really a step on from the question ‗do you have a busy or quiet household?‘. Just like
people, some dogs are more outgoing than others.
Do you need and want your dog to be friendly with people and visitors? Do you want a dog
that greets everyone enthusiastically? Remember that some people don‘t appreciate a dog
that leaps on them as soon as they arrive. But dogs can be trained to greet people and then
retire to their basket or bed.
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Does it have to be tolerant of young children playing with it, pulling its ears and so on?
Or do you prefer a dog that‘s less enthusiastic? If you don‘t have children, or grandchildren,
then you don‘t have to worry about a dog getting irritated by them. Perhaps you prefer
something calm and collected which isn‘t pestering you to play all the time. Do you mind if
the dog is uninterested in or reserved with strangers?
Think about travelling. If you travel a lot and want to take your dog with you (for example
inland flights, or train trips), your dog is likely to be handled by strangers. In this case you
might want to opt for a more outgoing breed.
How sociable with other animals does the dog need to be?
If you already have other pets or livestock you need to note what these are and choose
accordingly. Many puppies do very well brought into a house with other pets. They can be
trained to accept and regard as friends all kinds of things – cats, chickens, goats, sheep,
even rabbits.
However if you are thinking of adopting an adult from rescue, or taking one from a breeder,
you need to be very careful. They will give you advice once you‘ve shortlisted your breed.
However a fast, agile, hunting dog type might not be the best choice to go with chickens,
hamsters or rabbits, even if taken on as a puppy.
Remember also that your home is new territory for the puppy or dog. A responsible breeder
will have exposed the puppies to as many of life‘s events and creatures as they can. They
will also have properly assessed the dog‘s temperament. But they cannot cover all
eventualities, as this example shows:
“ We recently sold a Newfoundland puppy to friends. He was very socialized
with other dogs small and large as well as cats. When asked if he would do well
around chickens, we said yes we thought he would as he was very mellow.
We received a call the next day letting us know that he had devoured a chicken.
Oops. Breeders make mistakes. Our mistake was to not encourage the new
owners to make these introductions under a careful eye and with training in mind
to teach the puppy how to behave around the chickens.
He is still with his new owners, but some training has now taken place so that he
can co-exist with the very tasty free-range chickens!”
„Dog Breeder‟, USA
How trainable does your dog need to be?
If you are a first time dog owner then you really should be looking for something which is
totally amenable to your every wish (as far as possible). Otherwise you could end up very
frustrated and frazzled, taking on all the challenges that a new dog presents and having one
which is very selectively deaf.
Or have you had dogs before? Or are you looking forward to spending time training the dog
in specific activities, such as agility and obedience?
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All dogs are different. Even within a breed you can get variation. Some puppies in a litter
will be more headstrong or more willing than others. However they will share general
trainability characteristics as a breed.
So you need to decide if you want a willing accomplice in everything, or whether you are
prepared to be a little more challenged. Challenges bring rewards, but they do involve some
work on both your and the dog‘s part.
So do you want very trainable, moderately, or do you not really mind?
Where you live might have a big part to play in this. If you live in a very built up area then a
barking dog will cause annoyance and a noise nuisance. If you live in a small village or
miles away from anywhere it‘s not so much of an issue.
But you should think about what you want, as well as what your neighbours might find
acceptable.
Can you live with a dog that barks at every noise? Barks at visitors? Barks when it plays?
Barks in the car? Barks just because it‘s happy to be alive?
Some people find that having a dog which barks to alert them of visitors and possible
intruders very comforting. For others, it is simply a complete nuisance. Here is an example
of what happens when you don‘t get enough experience with a breed and you‘ve not really
bottomed what‘s ok, noise-wise.
" My wife has a dog allergy but we still wanted a dog. So she did a lot of
research into the different breeds. We looked carefully at Schnauzers because
friends we knew had one. This was a lovely dog that didn't trigger her allergy.
Our friends‟ dog was great also with the kids. After much consideration we
bought a miniature Schnauzer. She's wonderful. The kids love her, well we all
do. She‟s great fun and no trouble generally. We‟ve had no problems with my
wife‟s allergy at all.
We do however have one major issue. She barks constantly, at
everything. The one we know at our friends‟ doesn‟t do that at all. Based on
that experience we were convinced Schnauzers were for us, so we were really
taken aback. We didn't expect this problem. We have tried an anti-bark collar
on her but this just makes her depressed. When she's not wearing it she's just
'bark, bark, bark' and it drives us mad!
Richard S, UK
And remember that dogs make other noises too. Heavier build dogs can make quite loud
thundering ‗Scooby Doo‘ noises if they‘re running about in the house. Lightly built dogs
might only make a few slight patterings.
Some dogs that have guarding or watchfulness in their ancestry can also patrol the house at
night checking for intruders. So just be aware that barking isn‘t just for the day time.
Note down how quiet you would like a dog to be. You could be specific, for example ‗I want
a dog which barks when someone comes to the door, but otherwise is quiet‘.
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Dogs can be trained to bark or alert you in certain circumstances and not in others.
However, some breeds are more prone to making noise than others so you need to work out
what your ideal is.
Do you want a dog for a specific purpose?
This is straightforward. Do you want a guard or watch dog as well as companion? Do you
want it to go hunting? Jogging or cycling?
If you have a specific activity you want the dog to be part of, list it.
What level of health do you want?
Of course you want a healthy dog. But you should be aware that some breeds have more
health issues than others. This is a question which you can use as part of your short listing.
However it can become very important when you are finally deciding on ‗your‘ breed.
The breed profiles in the next chapter will tell you what types of health issues you might have
to prepare for, if this information is available.
This information is also very important when choosing your dog. It means you will be able to
ask your breeder or rescue centre if they have screened for these health issues and what
they have found.
Different dog breeds have different life spans. Some larger dogs can have quite short life
spans. For example the Great Dane (not a low allergy breed, but used to illustrate) might
only live for 8-10 years. The Australian Terrier tends to live for 12-14 years.
Is it important to you how long the dog might be around?
What can you afford?
Finally, think again about what kind of money you have left over in your bank account at the
end of the month.
When you are ready to select from your short list this can become a critical deciding factor.
Rare breed puppies can be very expensive to buy. Larger dogs tend to be more expensive
to keep in the long term. Food, equipment, bedding, travelling costs, vaccinations, spaying,
kennel costs all tend to increase with the size of the dog.
What your dog ‘shopping list’ could look like
Below, there is a worked example of how someone might have answered these questions.
The form goes through the different questions and then the person completing it has
identified the key aspects of a dog they really need.
After this there is a blank form which you can use, if you wish.
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Table 2 – Your shopping list : worked example
Question
Notes
On a scale of 1-10, how
allergic are you?
Do you live in a city, town or
country area?
What type of climate do you
live in?
About a 5. Moderately allergic to average dog. Causes
sneezing and wheezing.
Country – lots of paths and open space. Woods and fields.
Small village. Quiet.
Pretty cold. Below freezing a lot of the time in winter.
Windy and lots of snow/rain. Summer up to about 20
degrees centigrade max.
Busy! Lots of stuff happening with the kids, and kids‘
friends visit probably daily. Wife does charitable work and
people to the house frequently. Family orientated – lots of
get togethers.
About 1m x 2m for basket in lounge. Space in kitchen for
dog bowl and water bowl. Storage available in
shed/garage for other dog food and bedding.
10 metres x 20 metres. Side passage 1 m wide x 10 m
long (covered).
Just under knee height. About border collie sized. A dog
with some presence. Not a very small dog.
Medium. Collie kind of build.
Minimum of 1 ½ hours a day during the week and 2 hours a
day at weekends. Active family - walker, jogger, cyclist
Very limited.
Do you have a busy or a quiet
household?
What inside space do you
have for a dog?
What size is your garden or
yard?
What height/size of dog do
you prefer?
How much time will you spend
exercising your dog?
on grooming?
How much of the time will the
dog spend on its own?
How sociable with people
does the dog have to be?
How sociable with animals
does the dog need to be?
How trainable should your dog
be?
Do you want a dog for a
specific purpose?
What level of health do you
want?
How much can you afford?
Max 4 hours in the day. Wife works part time and kids
home from school about 3.30pm.
Friendly but not over-enthusiastic.
No other pets. Would like it to get on with other dogs.
Highly to very highly.
Preferably quieter. The kids need their sleep at night!
I‘d like one that would go lake/river fishing with me – can be
out for whole weekends on my own - either will stay quietly
on shore or on the boat.
Not important – will consider when got shortlist.
Longer the better 
About $130 per month in total. Will use when looking at
shortlist.
Summary – what kind of dog do I need?
A medium sized dog which isn‘t noisy. Moderately to very active. Very sociable - friendly with
people, kids and other dogs. Light or medium build. One which has a thickish coat or
doesn‘t mind cold weather too much. Doesn‘t need much grooming. Very trainable.
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Table 2 - Your shopping list : blank form
Here is a blank form. Please print this out and use if it will help you.
Question
Notes
On a scale of 1-10, how
allergic are you?
Do you live in a city, town or
country area?
What type of climate do you
live in?
Do you have a busy or a quiet
household?
What inside space do you
have for a dog?
What size is your garden or
yard?
What height/size of dog do
you prefer?
exercising your dog?
on grooming?
How much of the time will the
dog spend on its own?
How sociable with people
does the dog have to be?
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Question
Notes
How sociable with animals
does the dog need to be?
How trainable should your dog
be?
Do you want a dog for a
specific purpose?
What level of health do you
want?
How much can you afford?
Summary – what kind of dog do I need?
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Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
Be very clear about what you do, and don‘t, want
Work through each question, and don‘t skip
Honesty will get you the ‗right‘ answer
This process will neatly summarise your needs and make it easy to move forward
Summary
In this chapter you have learned:





why it‘s important to find out what you need from a dog
how to go about the task
what questions you needed to ask about your lifestyle and home
what questions you needed to ask about the type of dog you‘d prefer, and
what your dog shopping list now looks like.
Now you have worked out your lifestyle and what dog attributes you value, it‘s time to move
forward with confidence.
In the next chapter we will introduce you to how dogs evolved, the different dog types and
list the low-allergy breeds you can choose from.
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Chapter 4 – An introduction to dog breeds
In this chapter
In this chapter and the next we get to the really fun bit – describing all the breeds you have
to choose from.
In this chapter we will look at:





how dogs evolved
how breeds are grouped together, based on their heritage and their general
characteristics,
what makes one breed more ‗low allergy‘ than another
a list of all the accepted low allergy breeds you can choose from, and
a second list of possible choices for you to check out.
How dogs evolved
The starting point for dogs is way back in pre-history. As early as 38 million years ago there
were carnivores which are thought to be linked to the development of the wolf. 10 million
years ago there was a wolf-like creature (known as the Tomarctus) living in North America.
Wolves began to associate with humans 100,000 years ago, possibly more. Fossil bones
show wolves and early humans together at this time. There are various theories about why
this partnership should have occurred:
They scavenged our food remains
Leftovers from hunting – bones with meat on and anything we couldn‘t eat - would
have attracted them to our groups. As time passed, the wolves and their offspring
became more and more tolerant of eating close to humans. Eventually they were
happy to exist side by side.
They were hunting partners
Wolves are great hunters – and so are we. But put the two together and you have a
much more effective package. Wolves, being fast, could run down and tire the game.
The men, with their spears, could catch up and kill the game, and transport it back to
camp. So the partnership meant more food for everyone.
We raised wolf cubs
It‘s possible that early humans took pity on orphaned wolf cubs and brought them into
the settlements. Raising them by hand would have produced a wolf which was happy
to live with humans.
They provided meat and fur
There‘s no direct evidence to support this, but it is possible that in lean times, humans
used wolves for food and fur to keep warm. Though most countries don‘t see dogs as
food, some cultures in Asia still do.
We have scientific evidence that dogs started to evolve from wolves at least 14,000 years
ago. Scientists now think that domestication started in Asia. There‘s evidence of dogs as
we would recognise them today at about 8,000 years ago in Asia and areas of Africa. The
ancient tombs in Egypt show dogs which look very much like the modern Pharaoh Hound.
Page | 42
The modern dog
As humans spread out, the dogs they took with them adapted to the climate. Dogs moving
into cold climates developed heavier fur, or more fat, or both. A good example of a cold
climate dog is the Norwegian Elkhound. It is a compact dog with a very thick, dense coat,
ideal for living in snowy conditions.
Dogs moving into hot climates developed short fur and almost no fat. Examples of this
include the Saluki in Arabia and the Azawakh in Africa.
Dogs also evolved depending on what we needed them for. As we developed, we
demanded different things from our dogs. So some communities wanted hunting. Some
needed herding. Some wanted a guard dog. Others wanted companions and nothing more.
This specialisation changed the shape and size of the dogs. Here are some examples:

The Bulldog is short, square and very heavy boned – for nipping at bulls heels to
drive them forward (changing fields or driving to market), and withstand kicks

The Jack Russell terrier is a small, fast, short legged dog – ideal for getting into small
holes to rid farms of vermin (rats, mice etc)
Modern dogs – the breeds we know today - have been around a very short time. Real
specialisation into different breeds has only been going on around 1,000 years. Most breeds
are a lot later than that.
Dog breed types
So dogs evolved into niches, based on their use. This led us to classify dogs into groups,
based on their heritage. Countries set up ‗Kennel Clubs‘ to oversee breeders and protect
the purity of the breed lines, including setting up standards for each one.
The United Kingdom Kennel Club is the oldest one and was set up in 1873. It set up the
following groups to classify dogs according to purpose:







Hound
Gundog (also known as Sporting in some countries)
Utility (also known as Non-Sporting in some countries)
Working
Pastoral (also known as Herding)
Terrier
Toy
These are what they are known as in some other major Kennel Clubs.
Australia and
New Zealand
Hound
Gundog
Working
Non-Sporting
Utility
Terrier
Toy
Canada and
USA
Hound
Sporting
Working
Non-Sporting
Herding
Terrier
Toy
Foundation
United Kennel Club
(US)
Companion
Guardian
Gundog
Herding
Northern
Scenthound
Sighthound & Pariah
Terrier
South Africa
Emerging Breeds
Gundog
Herding
Hound
Terrier
Toy
Utility
Working
Page | 43
What the groups mean
It‘s important to understand a little bit about the different groups, because they usually share
some common characteristics. Knowing what group your dog belongs to gives you an idea
of what it was for, and what to expect!
Hound
The hound group were originally hunting dogs. Some, like the whippet, hunt mainly by
sight. This means they react to movement. Others, like the bloodhound, use scents to
track. Because they had to hunt at a distance from their masters, many developed
very free thinking and independent characters, requiring careful and persistent training.
Gundog
The gundogs are working dogs bred to retrieve shot game. They were partners in the
hunt but always subordinate. They had to wait with the master until told to fetch. As a
result they are attentive, willing, great with people and often very highly trainable.
However, they tend to require a lot of exercise.
Working
Working dog breeds were developed to help humans perform necessary tasks. These
including guarding, police dogs, pulling carts or loads for example. Most tend to be on
the large size, with a lot of strength. They can require considerable exercise. Their
size might make them unsuitable for homes with small children. They are willing
towards humans and tend to train well.
Pastoral/herding
Pastoral means ‗of the pasture‘. Most of this group were used to herd and guard
sheep or other larger farm livestock. Like gundogs they mostly worked to human
commands. This means they are often highly intelligent and very trainable. However
some of this group do require considerable exercise.
Terrier
Terrier effectively means ‗of the ground or earth‘. These dogs were bred to clear farms
of rats and mice. They also hunted foxes, badger, rabbit and other farm or estate
pests. Lively, fun and intelligent dogs, but also tenacious, determined and single
minded. They can be intolerant of other dogs and pets. Also often vocal, and require
very firm training.
Toy
As the name suggests, these are mostly small or very small dogs bred as companions.
They were often developed to keep well-to-do ladies company while the men were
doing ‗manly‘ things (like hunting, fishing and shooting, or retiring to the drawing room
for an after dinner cigar). Often very amenable, friendly, easy to train and require
moderate to low exercise.
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Utility or non-sporting
These are dogs which don‘t really fit well in any other group. They can combine
multiple characteristics of many of the groups. It is a diverse group with a wide range
of sizes and types. Check the characteristics carefully for a best fit with your lifestyle.
Emerging or Foundation
These are breeds new to the kennel club lists. It does not mean that the breed is
completely new, though it can do.
For example, in history, popular cross breeds have eventually found their way into the
‗pure breed‘ list when they became established. One example of that is the
Doberman, which was bred from several different established dogs including the
Manchester Terrier, Rottweiler and the German Shorthaired Pointer. This became a
recognised ‗pure‘ breed in about 1890.
However there are old well established breeds which are not widespread – but coming
into recognition. Some of these have been around for hundreds, possibly thousands
of years, and are often rare breeds. For example, the AKC list includes the Boerboel,
a South African mastiff which is a worker and family protector. This breed started as
early as the 1600s and by 1835 was the breed which is recognised by the AKC today.
This is also a diverse group (where it exists) because the dogs are waiting to be
assigned to a long term group.
In the breed profiles for your low allergy dogs, we show which group each one is in. This
gives you some clues on what to expect!
What makes a dog ‘low allergy’
Generally, it‘s the coat type which tends to make some dogs less of a problem for people
with dog allergies. The dogs which are less likely to produce an allergic reaction have coats
which:




Grow like human hair – they require clipping and don‘t shed much hair
Are curly - and also grow like human hair
Are hairless, or mostly hairless – again very little shedding, or
Are very short, single coats without second ‗undercoat‘ layer
We look at allergies, allergy terminology and how to test your reactions in more detail in
Chapter ..... For now, it‘s important to know which breeds you are choosing from.
Not all allergies are created equal
It is possible to be allergic to all dogs, or only to certain breeds, or certain coat types, as this
example shows. It is not specifically about low allergy dogs but it demonstrates how
different someone‘s reactions can be to different dog types:
We bought a Staffie (Staffordshire Bull Terrier) pup. But soon afterwards my son
started to get very itchy. The only thing we had changed was the dog so my parents
agreed to look after it for a while. We cleaned the house from top to bottom, put
fresh sheets on the beds and then went on holiday for a week. On holiday – no
problems. Came back – no problems. Pup came back – itching started. So we had
Page | 45
to rehome it.
Friends of ours had a Cavalier King Charles. We borrowed that for a week. It was
all over the house, slept on and even in his bed under the duvet. No problems at all.
We think it was the short staffie coat – like when you go to the hairdressers and
come back with those bits of hair down the back of your neck and in your clothes.
My son‟s fine with any dog with a soft silky coat. So we got a Springer Spaniel.
She‟s great.
James, Buckinghamshire, UK
This shows just how differently someone can react to a single variable like coat type. So it is
very important not to assume you will have the same reaction to all the dogs on the list.
Health warning and disclaimer




These dogs are potentially suitable for people with dog allergies. However, they are
not guaranteed.
This list does not claim that the breeds in it will not affect people with dog allergies, or
recommend or endorse any of the breeds
Only cross breedings between dogs on the ‗definite‘ list can definitely be considered
low allergy.
You must do your own research to make sure that any pure breed is suitable for your
allergy and lifestyle.
The low allergy list
This list has been compiled by comparing a number of highly reputable sources.
Sources used include:
Federation Cynologique Internationale
United Kingdom Kennel Club
American Kennel Club (AKC)
Canadian Kennel Club (CKC)
The Kennel Union of South Africa (KUZA)
The Kennel Council of Australia
Federacion Canofila de Puerto Rico (FCPR)
New Zealand Kennel Club
Italian Kennel Club
Swedish Kennel Club
Two lists – definite and possible
There are two lists:
1. Definite – pure breed dogs which have been approved as hypoallergenic, nonshedding or low allergy by one or more Kennel Clubs
Page | 46
2. Possible – pure breed dogs which have been suggested by various sources but not
approved by any Kennel Club yet. There is ongoing contact with Kennel Clubs to
find out if they are on KC lists.
Dogs are also shown as small, medium or large in response to demand, to help you with
space considerations.
Hairless and crested breeds work well for people who are highly allergic so these have been
highlighted for you.
Definite list
Definite Low Allergy / Hypoallergenic breed
Afghan Hound
American Hairless Terrier
Airedale Terrier
Australian Terrier
Bedlington Terrier
Border Terrier
Bichon Frise
Bolognese
Bouvier Des Flandres
Cairn Terrier
Cesky/Czesky Terrier
Coton de Tulear
Chinese Crested (mostly hairless)
Dandie Dinmont Terrier
Glen of Imaal Terrier
Fox Terrier – Wire Haired only
Greyhound
Havanese
Hairless Khala
Irish Terrier
Irish Water Spaniel
Kerry Blue Terrier
Komondor
Lagotto Romagnolo
Lakeland Terrier
Lhasa Apso
Lowchen
Maltese
Norfolk Terrier
Norwich Terrier
Poodle – Giant, Standard and Toy
Portuguese Water Dog
Hungarian Puli
Pervuvian Inca Orchid (hairless)
Russian Black Terrier
Schnauzer – Giant, Standard and Miniature
Scottish Terrier
Shih Tzu
Sealyham Terrier
Small, Medium
or Large
(S/M/L)
L
S
M/L
S
S/M
S
S
S
L
S
S
S
S
S
S
S
L
S
S&M
M
M
M
L
M
S
S
S
S
S
S
S, M & L
M/L
M
S, M & L
L
S, M & L
S
S
S
Specifically classed
non-shedding
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Page | 47
Definite Low Allergy / Hypoallergenic breed
Spanish Water Dog
(Irish) Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier
Tibetan Terrier
Welsh Terrier
West Highland White Terrier
Xoloitxcuintle (Mexican Hairless)
Yorkshire Terrier
Small, Medium
or Large
(S/M/L)
Specifically classed
non-shedding
M
M
S
S
S
S&M
S
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Y
Possible list
Not yet approved by any Kennel Club source as hypoallergenic, non-shedding or low allergy.
Shown as small (S), medium (M) or large (L).
















Affenpinscher (S)
American Staffordshire Bull Terrier (S/M)
Basenji (S) – no longer recommended by the American Kennel Club
Brussels Griffon (S)
Dachshund (S) – Wire Haired only
Italian Greyhound (S) – no longer recommended by the American Kennel Club
Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen (S)
Silky Terrier (S)
Australian Cattle Dog (M)
Bergamasco (M/L)
Chacy Ranior
Chihuahua (S) – no longer recommended by the American Kennel Club
Wirehaired Pointing Griffon
German Wirehaired Pointer (M/L)
German Shorthaired Pointer (M/L
Weimeraner (L)
None of the breeds in this second list are profiled in this book. Please do
investigate them if you find they suit your lifestyle. If you‘re looking at one
of these dogs you should make sure that they will work for you. It‘s not
possible to guarantee how different people with dog allergies will react to
any of these breeds.
I am always interested to hear of new low allergy cross breeds, and pure
breed dogs that work well for people with allergies, because it means I
can give you even more choice. Please e-mail me at
Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
Dogs and humans have been partners for at least 14,000 years
Most modern dog breeds have evolved in the last 500 years
There are usually 7-8 different dog breed groups for each national Kennel Club
These groups explain what the breeds were originally for, and their general
characteristics
5. Coat type tends to be the main reason for some dogs being low allergy
Page | 48
6. You can be very allergic to one low allergy breed and not to another – so test
carefully
Summary
In this chapter you‘ve learned





how dogs evolved
how breeds are grouped together, based on their heritage and their general
characteristics,
what makes one breed more ‗low allergy‘ than another
a list of all the accepted low allergy breeds you can choose from, and
a second list of possible choices for you to check out.
It‘s now time to move on to the process of choosing which breeds fit your needs.
Page | 49
Chapter 5 – Choosing ‘your’ breeds(s)
In this chapter
In this chapter things really get exciting. You‘ll find out:




What each one of the dog breeds in the list is like, using a profile showing the types
of environments they suit and the characteristics they have
How to shortlist, with the option of using a very simple tool to help you
Which dog breeds suit you the best, and
An important health warning about ‗designer dog‘ breeds.
Photograph, no photograph?
For most people, dog looks come way up the list before
they have even thought about breed characteristics. Sadly
that‘s why a lot of people who choose dogs this way end
up with the wrong one. Actually the dog‘s not ‗wrong‘ as
such – it just isn‘t matched to them and vice versa.
Most people have a choice of maybe 500 different dog
breeds in the world today. And then there are all the
cross-breeds too. So if most people start with looks, they
can still have a lot of choice before they think about their
lifestyle.
If you have a dog allergy, you have a very restricted list to
choose from. If you are only starting with 37 low allergy
breeds, and pick out 4 from pictures, you could find none
of them suit you.
Many people who find a dog through rescue often say that
they weren‘t especially keen on the way their dog looked at
first. But then they go on to say that the dog was definitely the right choice for their home
and how its personality won them over.
Hungarian Puli puppy
This is where we want you to be. It‘s very important to match your lifestyle to the dog‘s
characteristics first. Then you can draw up your shortlist. Only then should you start
thinking about what the dog looks like.
Shortlisting ‘your’ dog
There are 42 pure breeds to choose from. That could get confusing after you‘ve had a look
at a few. So there‘s a simple sheet you can print and fill in. You can use it to remember any
dogs which grab you from the breed profiles. (This follows).
Page | 50
Table 3 – Breed short listing : blank form
Breed
Suited?
Yes/No
Maybe
Score
Notes
out of 10
Page | 51
Breed profiles
The breed profiles which follow are for dogs which are recommended as low allergy. This is
because they appear on various kennel club lists, and also in other internet and published
sources.
Armed with your dog ‗shopping list‘, you‘re now in a position to look at how well each of
these pure breeds matches your personal criteria.
If you want to check out any of the other possible breeds, you can also do that using the
resources on the internet, and also by asking breeders of those dogs. However remember
not all breeders are equal and some will only tell you what you want to hear. However, you‘ll
learn how to spot the good ones in the next chapter.
Each profile in this book starts with a general description of the main features of the breed
and then a review of each of the main characteristics and needs.
As far as possible each one of these breeds has been given a separate page.
Happy shopping!
Page | 52
Breed name
General summary
Group
Originally from
Original purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colour
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Living space required
Coat type
Grooming requirements
Tolerance to Children
Sociability with strangers
Sociability with other
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Known health problems
Lifespan
Special needs
Afghan Hound
A large, lively and highly energetic hound with a striking long
silky coat. Dignified, sometimes aloof with strangers, but
clownish and playful with owners. Very people orientated and
often fantastic with children. Intelligent and charming, but also
stubborn and strong willed. Powerful, fast and strong, they are
keen and agile hunters.
Hound
Afghanistan. An old breed which found its way into Europe
around 1800.
Working. Hunting gazelle and hare.
24-29 inches
40-55 lbs
A wide range – black, black and tan, cream, gold, brindle, blue,
domino (also possibly described as grizzle)
Country
High. Over 2 hours per day. This is a working breed with high
energy and needs a very active home.
High. If given enough exercise will be calm in the house, but
will tend to adorn the whole sofa if allowed to. A large very
high fenced garden is a must due to their energy levels. They
can scale remarkable heights after the neighbour‘s cat, small
dog or wandering squirrel.
Long to very long, thick, silky, sometimes slightly wavy
High. Must be brushed every day. Bath once per month.
Usually high.
Moderate to low. Bonded with owners but often indifferent to
strangers. Once strangers are accepted as friends they will
become playful and affectionate.
Early socialisation is needed prevent them seeing small dogs
as prey. Brought up from puppies, in the home hey should be
fine with other cats and dogs, but unlikely to be safe with
smaller furries. Care also needed with farm animals.
Moderate. This is an intelligent and independent breed. Firm,
patient and consistent training is required at all times. ‗Work‘
reaps rewards – eg agility, field sports, jogging with owners
and so on. They can ignore their owners if they have their own
agenda. Needs a strong ‗alpha‘ pack leader.
Low. Usually very quiet.
Necrotic myelopathy, a respiratory disease resulting in death,
normally showing at 3-6 months. Also cataracts and
hypothyroidism.
9-15 years
Risk of sheep worrying – and will take large prey such as deer
Enforce a strict eating regime when puppies to avoid finicky
eating – with no treats.
Intensive socialisation needed between 7 and 16 months
Best suited to
A highly active country household, which can give the physical and mental stimulation this
breed requires, can enjoy daily grooming, is unphased by the Afghan prey drive and
provides firm leadership.
Page | 53
Breed name
General summary
Group
Originally from
Original purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colour
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
American Hairless Terrier
A lively, energetic, alert, friendly and fun loving small dog.
Can be feisty. Loves to cuddle. Relatively easy to train. Gets
along well with children and people. As they were originally
working dogs they can still have a strong hunting instinct.
They enjoy human company very much and willingly share
activities with their owners. Suits town and country.
Terrier
USA, circa 1972.
Working. The AHT is descended from American Rat Terriers.
Small to medium – 10 to 18 inches tall
Light. 10-20lbs.
Tan (skin colour)
Both.
Medium. About 1-1.5 hours a day. Will do more. As these
were working breed they will happily engage in hours of fun.
Low.
Hairless except for eyebrows and whiskers. Slight ‗peach fuzz‘
over skin.
Medium to high. Bathing to keep skin clean and reduce
clogged pores is required – frequency can be as much as twice
a week or as little as once a month. Also will require skin
moisturising. Sun cream is also required.
Medium to High. They will engage in fun willingly. However
they do not tolerate misbehaviour and lack of respect.
High
Moderate/High. Mostly ok, but care should be taken with some
smaller animals and pets because of their hunting origins.
Some do not get along well with other dogs.
Moderate/High. They love human companionship and take
positive direction (with rewards) well. However some are
strong willed and need an ‗alpha‘ pack leader.
Will bark enthusiastically when visitors first arrive. Some can
be persistent barkers.
Luxating patella – slipped knees – are the main problem. Also
ask about Legg-Calve Perthes, deafness, demodectic mange
and general allergies.
12-15 years
Will always require coat in cool and cold weather. Mild baby or
dog shampoo required. Suncream essential.
Best suited to
A moderately active family with older or respectful children, singles or couples that are
moderately active, where someone is willing to be „pack leader‟, have fun, and where they
see grooming time as beneficial „bonding‟ time.
Page | 54
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colour
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Airedale Terrier
A large, muscular and active terrier. Energetic, alert and
outgoing. Fearless, but not aggressive. Has a generally sweet
temperament with people, but will stand up for itself when
challenged. Robust and requires strong leadership to make
the best of it. Not a good choice for a first time dog owner.
Terrier
North England
Working. Firstly a badger, otter and rat hunter. Also used as a
wartime guard, messenger, rodent control and hunting birds
and game. Also a police dog.
Large – 22 to 25 inches to the shoulder
40-55lbs
Tan and black
Country
High – this is an energetic outdoor breed designed to hunt and
work. As an adult will prefer at least 2 hours per day and free
running to let off steam. Will chase wild prey instinctively.
High – indoor and outdoor, due to lively nature.
Wiry, rough and thick with a soft undercoat
High – coat requires regular brushing and stripping
High, though should be watched with small children as it can
play rough.
Medium to low – this breed can be wary of strangers and can
make a good watch or guard dog.
Medium. Generally ok with other dogs, but some can be
known to fight. Early and widespread socialisation is very
important.
Likes to be kept interested and entertained. Trainable, but
requires firm handling, especially as puppies. Requires a clear
‗alpha‘ pack leader and will dominate submissive dogs or
family members.
Will bark to alert owners to strangers, or danger
Hardy breed – occasional hip problems and skin infections.
11-14 years
None
Best suited to
An active family, or active singles and couples who live in the country, would like a protective
dog, and can give the exercise, social skills and leadership this breed requires.
Page | 55
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Australian Terrier
A rugged and hardy small terrier. Courageous and cheerful,
but also very adaptable and sensible. One of the easier to live
with terriers. Likes to please its owners – very orientated
towards the family unit. Ok for first time dog owners.
Terrier
Australia
Working. Rat control and as a guard dog.
11 inches
12-18 lbs
Both – they can make good apartment dogs given a
reasonable level of exercise
Moderate – average pet dog exercise of 1 to 1.5 hours a day
would be enough. Would easily take more.
Low
Longish, wiry coat
High – coat requires brushing several times a week and dead
hair needs to be plucked out
Medium – best with older and more considerate children
Medium – can be wary of strangers and make good watchdogs
Medium to high.
Medium to high – eager to please and can be easier to train
than some other terrier breeds. However like all terriers
require firm handling.
Known to make good watch dogs
Hardy breed with no regularly occurring health issues
11-14 years
None
Best suited to
A moderately active family with older or respectful children, singles or couples that are
moderately active, and who don‟t have a lot of home space. Also where someone is willing
to be „pack leader‟, have fun, and likes a dog with a moderately protective nature.
Page | 56
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Bedlington Terrier
A hardy yet very lightweight terrier with almost a ‗lambs wool‘
coat and a roman nose. Very distinctive. Quiet on its feet.
Agile, graceful and very fast. Often crossed with a whippet in
the UK to give a hardy fast hunting dog for small game. Playful
and cheerful, but love to dig in the backyard. Vocal and
possessive, and can be intolerant of strangers and children.
Early and ongoing socialisation is highly recommended.
Terrier
North England
Working. Hunting rats and badgers
15-17 inches
18-23 pounds
White/cream
Both
Medium. Around 1.5 hours a day, but does not need long
exercise sessions. Is calmer indoors than some other terriers.
Outdoors it loves to run.
Low indoors. Medium outdoors – they like a good sized
garden to run in.
Short but soft and curly
High. Needs brushing at least 2-3 times a week and nail
clipping every 6 weeks.
Low – can be jealous of attention given to children and other
pets in the household. Does best in a mature active household
with no other children or pets.
Low – suspicious and barks a lot.
Usually fine with other dogs outdoors, but can be jealous of
other pets in a family unit (within the house). Does well as an
only dog.
Can be stubborn. Early socialisation and training is very
important. Requires firm handling. First time owners who are
firm and patient only.
High – barks a lot, especially at strangers.
Liver disease, kidney disease and thyroid problems
14-17 years
None
Best suited to
Moderately to highly active singles or couples who don‟t have a lot of home space, and no
other pets, where they are prepared to give this dog patient leadership and socialisation.
Also for people who see grooming as great „bonding‟ time and aren‟t „garden proud‟!
Page | 57
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Border Terrier
A small, lightweight and very hardy terrier. Very tough and
tenacious. Alert and active. Friendly, cheerful and outgoing.
Will love to be out in all kinds of weather – seemingly
impervious to just about anything.
Terrier
Scotland/Scottish Borders
Working. Fox hunting with horses (including digging out of
burrows) and guarding farms.
12-15 inches
12-18 lbs
Tan/fawn basis with ‗salt n pepper‘ effect black in the coat
Both, but see below
Borderline high. Energetic dogs that lap up exercise and
activities. Need long daily walks. Would do well with 2 hours a
day, or more. Makes a good jogging, cycling or hill walking
companion despite their small size.
Low indoors, medium outdoors.
Thick, harsh, rough and wiry, with a thick undercoat
Low. Low volume shedding. Needs a brush once a week and
occasional trimming.
Medium. Will do well with children if raised with them and
socialised well.
High
Will do well with other pets and dogs if socialised well early on
and raised with household pets.
High. Intelligent and devoted to owners and respond well to
training. However needs firmness from puppyhood.
Not known
Hardy. No common health problems
12-14 years
None
Best suited to
A highly active family, or highly active singles and couples, who like being outdoors in all
weathers, and don‟t mind a dog that can be a little stubborn at times.
Page | 58
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Bichon Frise
A small, white, fluffy, happy dog. Charming, lively and playful
but also sensitive. Very sociable and people orientated. A
lovely companion dog. Bichons make excellent first time dogs.
Toy
The Canary Islands (possibly) but popular in France and Italy
in the 16th century.
Companion. A circus performer originally, and companion dog.
9-11 inches
7-11 lbs
White
Both – does very well as a city dog
Low. An hour a day will suit a Bichon. Does enjoy playing
outside.
Low, indoors and outdoors.
Soft, white and curly.
High. Needs brushing every day and washing at least once a
month. Requires professional grooming once a month.
Good with children, but sensitive and don‘t appreciate rough
handling by young children. Probably better with older, calmer
and more considerate children.
High. Outgoing and cheerful.
High. Usually very tolerant and adaptable.
East to train for obedience and tricks. However more difficult
for house-breaking (housetraining) and tend to require indoor
crates to achieve this.
Low. Barks little and easy to live with. However will make
good watch dogs for when visitors arrive.
Include blocked tear ducts, skin allergies and cataracts. Also
very sensitive to flea bites.
12-15 years
Best suited to
A city or town family with older or respectful children, or singles and couples, all with limited
home space and low to moderate time for exercise. And for people who see grooming as
beneficial „bonding‟ time.
Page | 59
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Bolognese
Also known as the Bichon Bolognese. A small, white, compact
and square little dog. A relatively long haired breed. Intelligent
and companionable. Very similar in many respects to the
Bichon Frise. It is classed as a rare breed. Bright, intelligent
little dogs that form a close bond with their owners.
Toy
Malta and Italy
Companion.
10-12 inches
8-12lbs
White
Both but especially suited to town and city living. Make good
apartment dogs.
Low. Half an hour a day would be enough.
Low, indoors and outdoors.
Long, soft and curly/wavy.
High. Needs to be brushed every day with special attention
paid to stomach, behind ears and legs. Hair must be regularly
removed from ear canals and between foot pads. Requires
regular professional grooming.
High. Get on well with them.
Medium to low. Can be reserved with strangers and will bark.
High.
High. A companion dog which is intelligent and loves to
please.
Medium. Will bark to alert owners to strangers and anything
new.
9-15 years
Intense bonding can cause separation anxiety. Will need early
training to overcome this.
Best suited to
A city or town family with older or respectful children, or singles and couples, all with limited
home space, low to moderate time for exercise and where someone is around for much of
the day.
Page | 60
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Colours
Weight
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Bouvier Des Flandres
A large, strong, striking dog with a long coat and bushy
eyebrows. Powerful and muscular with a free flowing stride.
Highly intelligent and devoted to its owners. Stable and easy
going temperament. Moderate shedding – therefore not a dog
for the highly allergic. Also not for the houseproud.
Working
France and Belgium
Working. Cattle herder, companions and guard dogs.
23-27 inches
Grey, black, tan, chocolate and cream
66-88 lbs
Country
High. Around 2 hours per day. Will do more.
High due to their size, but are calm and sensible in the house.
Needs a large securely fenced back yard.
Long, shaggy, harsh.
High. Bouviers should be brushed/groomed around 3 times a
week and require regular trimming. The long coat needs to be
kept free of tangles especially around the mouth and under the
stomach. The outer coat needs to be stripped when they moult
every 6 months. The long coats have a tendency to attract and
retain water and mud.
High if trained and socialised with them early. Might be best
with older children due to size and strength as it can easily
knock them over.
Low to medium – reserved but not aggressive. Protective with
their family.
Medium – needs to be socialised with them early
Medium – they are highly intelligent and can understand what
is required quickly. However they can be stubborn and require
form training and discipline from a clear ‗alpha‘ pack leader.
Need to be kept occupied and mentally stimulated so
obedience, agility and tracking training are all beneficial.
Low
Bloat (twisting of the gut and stomach) and hip dysplasia
10-15 years
Risk of cattle and sheep worrying – requires early training.
Best suited to
Active country families with older children, or active country singles and couples, who aren‟t
especially houseproud, have lots of space and are happy to invest time in training.
Page | 61
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Cairn Terrier
A compact and tough little dog previous bred for hunting.
Cairns are cheerful, lively and alert. They make great
companions for children and tolerate/enjoy lots of playtime.
They are bold and inquisitive, but like all terriers, are strong
minded at times. They are affectionate and demand a lot of
attention, but give a lot of love and fun in return.
Terrier
Scotland
Working. Hunting rats. Now mostly companion dogs.
10-13 inches
13-17lbs
Grey, cream and tan, with a ‗salt n pepper‘ effect of darker
hairs in their coat, especially around the face and ears
Both
Medium to high. Cairns have what seems like boundless
energy. They need a good garden to run around, long daily
walks and plenty of playtime. Will become bored and
destructive and bark a lot if not given the exercise and
stimulation they require. At least 1 hour a day walking plus lots
of playtime.
Medium. Cairns are small, but busy and inquisitive dogs.
They need a good sized garden to play in. They will dig!
Medium, rough
Medium to high. Brushed and combed once a week and have
the coat stripped twice a year during the moulting season
(spring and autumn).
High. They like rough play and do well with older children say
7/8 years upwards who will entertain them.
Wary of strangers and will bark. Makes a good watch dog.
High. However needs firm socialisation and training as a
puppy to accept other household pets. Generally fine with
other dogs, but will stand their ground if challenged.
High. Intelligent and love to please, but still have a stubborn
side. Needs a firm alpha pack leader.
High. Will bark excessively if left alone and ignored. Needs
plenty of exercise to overcome this. Will also watch the house
by barking at strange things and people.
Very hardy
12-15 years
Should not be overfed as they can easily put on weight
Best suited to
Highly active families, singles and couples who like playtime, can give strong leadership and
would prefer a dog with a protective nature that will sound the alarm.
Page | 62
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Coton de Tulear
Happy and affectionate little dog and extremely loyal to its
owner. It is very intelligent and quite a clown and will 'play to
the crowd' if given the opportunity, such as standing on its hind
legs and waving its paws in the air. When happy it has an
unusual characteristic of 'grunting'. It loves people. Is the
largest of the Bichon group.
Toy
Madagascar
Unknown – it is said that the original dog survived a shipwreck
and bred with the island terriers. Now a companion.
9-12 inches
10-18 lbs
Mainly white or cream, sometimes with tan or grey patches
Both
Low to Medium. They appreciate a daily walk of up to an hour
and will appreciate playtime. They do have the stamina for a
long hike.
Low
Medium to long, soft, cotton-like (hence the name)
High. Requires brushing or combing every day.
High. Loves fun.
High. Loves people. Can be a little cautious but this can be
overcome with good early socialisation.
High.
High. Loves to please. Very trainable if using positive
rewards.
Medium. Will grunt when playing and happy.
Heart, eye, liver and some back problems
14-16 years
Bonds intensely with owners therefore can easily develop
separation anxiety. Will need help and training to overcome
this.
Best suited to
A city or town family with respectful children, or singles and couples, all with limited home
space, low to moderate time for exercise and where someone is around for much of the
day.
Page | 63
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Chinese Crested (Hairless Variety)
A small, light and graceful dog, with plumes of hair around the
face, and on the feet and tail. The Crested is a happy and
animated dog that loves deeply and needs a lot of personal
interaction with its owner. These agile dogs are very good
climbers and jumpers and can even grip objects and toys with
their paws.
Toy
Actually not certain but believed to be from Africa or Central
America –not China.
Believed that the Chinese picked them up in African port cities
and used as rat catchers aboard ships. Now a companion dog.
9-13 inches
13lbs or less.
Both, though especially suited to town.
Low. This breed makes an ideal pet for apartment dwellers
and those with limited mobility. It does appreciate walks and
playing in the garden, but chasing a ball around for half an
hour keeps them happy.
Low
Hairless on the body. Plumed on feet, head and tail.
High. As with the Mexican hairless, the Chinese Crested
needs regular baths, moisturizers and sun block. The skin
must be prevented from drying and cracking. They sweat
through glands in their feet and skin so daily sponge and
weekly baths are recommended.
High. Very sociable.
Cautious or suspicious. Early socialisation is recommended
High.
Medium. Loves people so willing to please owners, but can be
wilful. See special needs.
Medium. Makes a good watchdog. Is cautious or suspicious
of strangers.
Soft teeth and tooth loss. Also PRCD (progressive rod-cone
degeneration), and eye disease. Parents should be Optigen
tested and have a CERF score/certificate.
12-15 years
Coat in cool and cold weather and a T shirt in summer plus
sunscreen on exposed parts. Bonds intensely. Difficult to
housetrain.
Best suited to
A city or town family with respectful children, or singles and couples, all with limited home
space, low to moderate time for exercise and where someone is around for much of the
day.
Page | 64
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Dandie Dinmont
A vulnerable UK breed on the ‗at risk‘ register with the UK
Kennel Club. The Dandie is a short, small sturdy dog with a
long back, designed for going down holes. Fun and lively, and
eager to please. A game and workmanlike terrier,
independent, highly intelligent, determined, persistent,
sensitive, affectionate and dignified. Devoted to their owners
but have a stubborn streak.
Terrier
Scotland
Working. Originally used to hunt otters, weasels and badgers
and small ground vermin. Now mostly a companion dog.
9-11 inches
18-24lbs
White and cream, white and grey, cream and tan – known as
‗pepper‘ or ‗mustard‘.
Both
Low to medium. Will do fine with 1 to 1.5 hours a day, but as
with all terriers will easily do more. Can easily revert to
‗working‘ status in the country.
Low.
Medium length. 2/3rds harsh hair and 1/3 soft.
High. The coat should be brushed every day to prevent
matting. Hand stripping is required 2-3 times a year. Coat on
the feet must be trimmed regularly.
High.
Medium to high.
High. Introduce early.
This is a highly intelligent breed and is therefore relatively easy
to train providing you make allowances that they can be
stubborn at times.
Medium, potentially high. Start training early to eradicate
barking at an early age.
Mainly back (disc) problems and arthritis in older dogs. Some
slipped knees and hip problems, but more infrequent. Eye
testing of both parents for Glycoma is strongly recommended.
9-15 years
Some risk of separation anxiety.
Best suited to
Moderately active families, singles or couples who have limited living space, don‟t mind a
dog that can have a mind of its own sometimes and see regular grooming as happy
„bonding‟ time.
Page | 65
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Fox Terrier (Wire Haired only)
Fox Terriers are probably the liveliest and most energetic of all
the terrier breeds. Very intelligent, curious, cheerful and love
their families. Very stubborn, limitless energy and requires an
active and confident owner. Not for first time dog owners.
Terrier
England
Working. Hunting foxes and estate vermin, rabbiting
14-15 inches
13-18lbs
Country
High. 2 hours per day or more. This is a breed with limitless
energy, as a result of its fox hunting heritage. It will dig in the
garden, especially if not kept physically active. These dogs
love to play and will chase a ball or Frisbee for hours on end.
Do well at agility, flyball and other activities.
Medium to high – active indoors and out. Requires much more
space than its small size suggests. Large fenced garden is a
must.
Short to medium, dense, hard and wavy.
High. Must be hand plucked 2-3 times per year. Also needs
twice weekly brushing and combing, and also regular trimming.
Great with older children (7/8 years upwards) who will keep it
entertained
Medium
Medium to low. Must be socialised early to avoid problems.
Have in the past had a reputation as being snappy. Can be
possessive.
Medium. The breed has a stubborn streak and socialisation
and training should be started when they are puppies and
continued into adulthood. Requires firm alpha pack leader.
High. This breed barks a lot.
Eczema and skin allergies. Less common health issues
include: heart problems, seizures and digestive problems.
13-15 years
Risk of separation anxiety – can cause distress and destructive
tendencies if left alone too long.
Fox Terriers can be possessive of their food and toys.
Risk of sheep worrying
Best suited to
Country dwelling, active outdoorsy families with older children, or singles and couples, who
relish the idea of doing fun, stimulating and energetic things with their dog.
Page | 66
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Glen of Imaal Terrier
A tough, strongly built terrier with a huge personality. Highly
people orientated and sociable, with great enthusiasm and zest
for life. Not aggressive, but will stand ground if challenged and
are tenacious. They still have a very strong prey drive.
Terrier
South East Ireland, around 1575
Working. Hunting badgers, foxes and estate vermin
14-15 inches
35lbs
Creams, tans, wheaten, brindle, sometimes tinged with blue
Both, but great in Country
High. 1.5 hours per day or more. This is a sturdy breed with
good energy and will need at least one good daily walk. They
will catapult you out of the door in their enthusiasm. Long hikes
are possible after puppyhood. Be careful outdoors as they
have a high prey drive.
Medium – they don‘t take up much space indoors. A good
sized securely fenced garden is an advantage.
Medium, long, dense, and wavy.
High. Is ‗hairy‘! Coat grows to about 3 inches and then needs
to be stripped. Must be stripped about twice a year. Also
needs regular brushing and combing to prevent matting.
entertained. Loves children but due to its robust build can be
too rough and heavy for toddlers.
High – then Glen adores people and will great enthusiastically.
Medium to low. Must be socialised early to avoid problems.
Should not be homed with small pets including cats due to
strong prey drive. Can be possessive and dominant with other
dogs in and outside the home.
Medium. The breed has a very stubborn streak and
socialisation and training should be started when they are
puppies and continued into adulthood. Requires a firm alpha
pack leader.
Low. A Glen will bark when it needs to alert you to something
important and has a large voice, but they were trained to work
silently.
Very tough and hardy. Ask about any signs of Late Onset PRA
(Progressive Retinal Atrophy) in breed lines. Can get skin/flea
irritations without proper grooming.
13-15 years
A strong owner
Best suited to
relish the idea of doing fun, stimulating and energetic things with their dog, and have the
strength of character to deal with any stubbornness.
Page | 67
Breed name
Special notes
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Greyhound
The greyhound falls into 3 distinct types
1. Racing – the lightest built
2. Coursing – more strongly built for open field terrain
3. Show – a slightly different build from both above
A tall, leggy and elegant dog. Friendly, outgoing, affectionate
and amenable, usually loving the company of people and great
around children. Docile and relaxed indoors, loves to run
outdoors. Great for first time dog owners and a very wide
variety of household types. Likes to get on the furniture/bed
and snuggle, with or without humans.
Hound
Africa (Mesopotamia) - One of the most ancient breeds, tracing
ancestry to the earliest civilisations. Taken to South America
by Columbus, and into Britain by the Romans.
Hunting deer, wild boar and game.
24 inches – 32 inches
50lbs to 90lbs
All including particolour (white with patches)
Both
Moderate to low. 2 half hour runs a day at the bottom end, but
they will easily do long hikes and jogs. Normally very good on
lead (leash).
Moderate – very quiet indoors and curl up small. Don‘t need a
big garden. Some sunbathe, but they tend to only spend time
outdoors if their owners are there too.
Short, soft, single coat.
Minimal. Smooth over with a grooming glove & clip nails.
Generally high, and they tend to be very gentle.
Generally high
Generally high with other dogs. Check if getting from rescue
as an adult on reactions to small dogs and cats. Should not be
homed with smaller furry creatures due to prey drive.
Generally high, especially with treats. But they don‘t sit
because this is not comfortable for them.
Extremely low – rarely barks, but has an array of happy noises
Bad teeth, later onset of arthritis from racing, bald thigh
syndrome and some bone cancers.
Hardy and tough. 11-15 years on average.
Very low body fat % =
1. Do not leave outside
2. Must have a coat in cold/wet weather
3. Vet must understand the much lower anaesthetic
requirements of greyhounds
4. Take care in heat - can easily get heat stressed/heat
stroke above 20 C/70F.
Best suited to
Any household, with or without children, with reasonable living/garden space and moderate
time for exercise.
Page | 68
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Havanese
Cheerful and high spirited small dog. Part of the Bichon dog
family. A companion dog that loves people and loves to show
off. Loves to learn and perform tricks. Intelligent and attentive
and great with older children. Will follow their family around
the house almost constantly.
Toy
Mediterranean
Companion dog, especially popular originally with wealthy
Cubans
8-11 inches
7-13lbs
White, cream, champagne, black, silver, black and tan, blue,
gold, chocolate, particolour and tri-coloured. They can have
solid or broad markings of any of these colours
Both
Medium. Up to an hour daily walking, but does appreciate
regular playtime and runs in the garden on top of this. Can
adapt to apartment living if it gets out for a runabout 2-3 times
a day.
Low
Medium to long, soft and wavy
High. Brush and comb every day. Minimum at least three
times a week. Hair between footpads will need clipping.
Trimming also possible if required.
High. They love children but younger children are too rough
and inconsiderate for this kind of toy breed. Older children 7-8
years and upwards would be fine. Havaneses love to be in the
centre of fun and games.
High.
High.
High. They love to learn. Training will keep them occupied
and entertained.
Low to medium, as with other members of the Bichon family.
Low thyroid, allergies and skin conditions.
13-15 years
Coat needed in cold weather.
Strong attachment to humans – risk of separation anxiety.
Best suited to
Families with older or considerate children, singles or couples with limited living space and
moderate time for exercise, and where there is someone around for much of the day.
Page | 69
Breed name
Special notes
Hairless Khala
Khala is pronounced ‗Cowla‘ and is the Quechua Indian word
for ‗without clothing‘.
The dogs come in two types:
 Medio (medium) – Slightly shorter legged and more
rustic, also called the ‗pottery type
 Grande (large) – longer legged with a more elegant
look, moving with ease and agility
Both of these types can occur in the same litter and are not
classed as different breeds. There is no selective breeding yet
for one type or the other.
Khala pedigrees are rarely written down in their native land.
Argentina, Bolivia and Peru in particular are trying to establish
proper breeding records and registries for Khalas.
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
Export to countries such as The USA and Europe is limited, but
not impossible.
Khalas are loving and docile with family and friends – being
closely bonded with their owners. They are hardy and are
willing to make do with only the bare necessities, as they live
an unprotected life in their homelands. They do well with other
family pets and do best in the company of another dog,
especially another hairless one. They can be aloof with
strangers and require firm authority. This is a primitive breed
and generally not a good choice for first time dog owners – if
you can find one.
Hound (Continental Kennel Club)
South America – Bolivia, Peru, Argentina in particular - where
they live from the coast right up into the high mountains
Companion
Medio – 14 to 17 inches (36-41cm)
Grande – 17 to 20 inches (43-51cm)
Medio – 15 to 30 lbs (7-14 kgs)
Grande – 18-30 lbs (8-14 kgs)
Colour is not important within the breed ‗standard‘ but most
have dark grey skin when mature.
Both – they will adapt to apartment living given adequate
exercise
Medium. One hour or more daily walking, and will also
appreciate playtime/bonding time in the garden or yard on top.
This is a hardy breed which would tend to roam relatively freely
in the home village, so it is likely it will do as much exercise as
you want. A medium sized, well (high) fenced garden or yard
is an advantage for playtime.
Medium. This dog will not take up much space in an
apartment as long as it gets out for at least one good daily walk
of an hour. However as a largely ‗outdoor‘ dog in its
homelands, it will do better with a garden to play in.
Hairless – usually with some hair on the top of the head
Moderate, possibly high. Similar to grooming requirements for
the other hairless breeds. Protection from extreme sun using
Page | 70
Breed name
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Hairless Khala
suncream and/or T shirts and from cold with coats/sweaters.
Skin moisturising may be necessary and bathing occasionally
to keep the skin clean. Khala nails are hard and long and the
dogs are very sensitive to them being trimmed.
High. They are a family dog and will do well with children they
are brought up with or ones they have accepted. They have a
natural distrust of strangers. Therefore make sure new
children are fully accepted by your Khala before leaving them
unsupervised together – even if your own children are there.
Medium to low. Khalas are bonded to their family and can be
initially aloof – though not aggressive – with strangers. Give
them time to warm up to new people arriving at the house.
Medium to high. They do especially well in the company of
other Khalas or hairless dogs. However, another dog for
company would also be an advantage.
This is a willing dog with owners. However it is a primitive
breed with limited time exposed to a conventional modern
environment. Therefore training needs to be firm, to avoid
Khalas taking over the household.
Not known
Bad teeth
Not known in conventional modern environments. Likely to be
similar to other hairless breeds eg 10 years.
Khalas will give chase without thought and have no road sense
at all. Ensure that your Khala is well trained to recall and
walked on a lead if there is any danger of straying into traffic.
When startled, Khalas tend to freeze. If challenged, they will
tend to run away from the danger because they have no fur to
protect themselves from attack, and their teeth are also
primitive.
Best suited to
A previous/ experienced dog owner with moderate time for exercise and a medium sized
home and garden, with or without children. It might be an advantage for someone to be
around during the day.
Page | 71
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Irish Terrier
A tough, medium, longer legged and almost racy build terrier
with a huge personality. Happy and enterprising, intelligent.
Has great enthusiasm and zest for life. This terrier is fearless
and spirited but will stand ground if challenged and is
tenacious. They adore human companionship.
Terrier
Ireland
Working. Hunting badgers, foxes and estate vermin
18-19 inches
28-33 lbs
All colours, but preferred are tans, wheaten and red, in mostly
whole colours, with a little white permitted on the chest.
High. 1.5 to 2 hours per day, can do more. This is an energetic
breed that will drag you out of the door in their enthusiasm in
all weathers. Long hikes are possible after puppyhood. Be
careful outdoors as they can have a high prey drive.
Medium – they don‘t take up much space indoors but the more
exercise they have, the calmer they will be indoors. A good
sized securely fenced garden is an advantage.
Medium, smooth, hard, dense, mostly straight
Low. Coat requires stripping 2-3 times a year and a brush as
an when necessary.
entertained.
Medium (see noise level).
Medium. Must be socialised early to avoid problems. Should
not be homed with small pets including cats due to strong prey
drive. Can be possessive and dominant with other dogs in and
outside the home.
Medium to high. Irish terriers have an immense capacity for
and love of learning. They need to be mentally and physically
stimulated. You get back what you put in. Great for agility,
flyball, gundog training or anything active and mentally
challenging. However they require firm leadership.
Moderate to high. Can bark continuously with or without the
need to alert you to strangers. High guarding instincts.
Very tough and hardy. Ask about any signs of cracked pads
(hyperkeratosis) in breed lines.
13-15 years
A strong owner and someone who can keep it stimulated.
Should not be left alone for long periods to avoid
destructiveness through boredom.
Best suited to
Page | 72
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Irish Water Spaniel
A medium to large, highly active breed that is still a working
dog. They are intelligent, quick to learn, alert, and inquisitive.
They have endurance and a bold temperament. They love
people, especially their family. Loves swimming, water and
mud.
Gundog
Ireland
Working. To hunt, flush and retrieve snipe and wildfowl.
Today used for all types of game shooting activities, agility,
obedience, drug sniffing.
20-24 inches
44-66lbs
Liver (reddish or purplish dark chocolate brown)
Country
High. 2 hours a day or more. Will become naughty and
destructive otherwise. A high energy breed that requires much
physical and mental stimulation.
High, indoors and out. Large fenced garden is a must.
Short, thick, curly and oily
High. Need regular grooming to prevent mats forming. Must
be checked regularly for ticks and fleas. Require washing
every few months to keep the coat odour free. After a
thorough combing, they should either be washed or allowed to
swim which puts the curl back into their coats. The coat will
need to be trimmed from time to time. The hair must be
trimmed around the ears and between the toe pads.
High. Size and love of rough and tumble means they are best
with older children.
Medium to high. Can bark to warn of strangers.
High. Usually fine, especially if socialised well at an early age.
High. Loves to learn and training should be fun to keep them
entertained. Active agility and field sports training is
recommended.
Medium. Does bark to warn the family of dangers.
Skin and coat problems, hip dysplasia, auto immune disease
and various cancers, especially lymphosarcoma.
1-14 years.
This dog is slow to mature. Expect to have a very large
‗puppy‘ for at least 2 years.
Bonds intensely and can suffer separation anxiety
Best suited to
Country dwelling, highly active families or people with lots of space and energy, living close
to water, who aren‟t especially houseproud and relish the idea of doing field activities.
Page | 73
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Kerry Blue Terrier
A medium-sized dog. Fast, strong and intelligent. Highly
spirited and good with children. Loyal and affectionate.
Stubborn and strong minded.
Terrier
Ireland
Working. A multi-purpose dog in 19th century Ireland. These
Terriers were used for guarding, fighting, herding and hunting.
Today they are used as show dogs, watchdogs and family pets
18-19 inches
33-37lbs
Blue – dark grey through to pale steel
Both, but best in country
Medium to high. 1.5 hours a day, but will take much more. Will
adapt to town living if given enough free running to let off
steam properly. Large fenced garden preferable.
Medium indoors, preferably high outdoors.
Short to medium, thick, soft, curly
Medium to high. They can be bathed regularly using mild
shampoo, and the coat needs to be brushed through to prevent
it from knotting. They need to be clipped and scissored every
two or three months. Excess hair should be removed regularly
from the ear passages. The hair between the pads of the feet
should also be trimmed regularly.
High
Low to medium. Makes a good guard dog. They do not tend
to like strangers.
Low to medium. Needs very good early socialisation.
However will stand their ground if challenged and can be
aggressive. Can even bite strangers.
Low to medium. Kerries are intelligent, self-confident and can
be stubborn. Therefore they do need firm handling. Needs lots
of positive and reinforced, consistent training for the first 2
years.
Medium to high as a result of past work as a guard dog.
Low thyroid, eye and cancer problems. prone to eye problems
such as dry eyes, cataracts and entropion (eyelids that turn
inwards). Cysts, cancerous growths and extra thick hairs
which become almost like spikes (spiculosis).
13-15 years
Watch for any aggressive tendencies in litter parents.
Best suited to
Active families with children, singles or couples, who are prepared to invest time in training
and social skills, and would like a protective watch dog.
Page | 74
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Komondor
A large, powerful white dog with long ‗dreadlock‘ fur. Very
strongly guarding and herding in instinct. The coat allows it to
blend with the flock it is guarding. Calm and steady when not
challenged, but will be strongly protective when challenged.
Pastoral (sheepdog)
Hungary
Working. Guarding sheep against wolves and bears.
Very large – 26 to 32 inches
88-132 lbs
White
Country
High. This dog has very strong and deeply ingrained working
traditions. It will be vigilant during the day and at night will
patrol the property, checking for intruders.
Very high.
Long white dreadlocks
A fully mature coat takes about 2 years to form. Help will be
needed to ensure the dreadlocks do not turn into a single
matted mass over the whole dog. Drying after a bath takes
about 2 days. Check regularly for parasites (fleas and ticks).
Will need to be vigilant about picking bits out of the coat after
exercise.
Is loyal and gentle with its own family. It‘s size and power
means it may knock over small children.
Medium. Will accept them as soon as it knows they mean no
harm.
Medium to low. Early socialisation to a wide range of
circumstances is extremely important due to the guarding
nature of these dogs. Can be aggressive.
Low to medium. Training needs to be fun, but consistent,
reinforced and firm. If allowed to ‗get away with things‘,
Komondors will continue to think inappropriate behaviour is
acceptable. Early socialisation is extremely important to this
training.
Probably high. Instinctively protective.
Mainly hip problems, entropion and cataracts
10-12 years
If considering as a pet rather than working dog, ensure the
breeder knows this.
Matures late – sometimes not fully adult until around 3 years
old.
Best suited to
Country dwelling, highly active, outdoorsy households, who would prefer a protective
guarding dog and can give the training and grooming the Komondor requires.
Page | 75
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Lagotto Romagnolo
A medium sized, sturdy water dog. Lively, affectionate and
intelligent. Makes a good watch dog and a great companion,
loving human company. A strongly working breed with high
energy and keen senses. Likes to be kept mentally and
physically stimulated. They love swimming. Not for the
houseproud.
Gundog
Italy
Working. Duck hunter and retriever, truffle finder
16-19 inches
24-35lbs
Mostly country
They are bred to work and need a lot of exercise. 2 hours or
more a day. They love swimming and to play fetch. Field
sports and water retrieving activities would be beneficial.
Medium indoors. High outdoors.
Thick, woolly, curly, waterproof
Medium. The coat will get matted easily and the mats should
carefully be pulled apart without tearing the coat. They must be
cut down at least once every year. Trim to 1.5 inches over the
body for lower maintenance. Trim hair on outer ears, but only
in ear canal if there is a build up of wax. Also keep eyes clear
of hair.
High. Get along well with children if socialised from an early
age.
Low. Territorial and may take some time to adjust to visitors.
High. Get along well with other pets if socialised early.
High. Very eager to please. Loves to learn and be stimulated.
Especially suited to field sports and retrieving training. Must be
trained from day 1.
High, especially as a puppy. Makes a good guard dog. Vocal
when strangers are near the home.
Cataracts
11-12 years
May suffer separation anxiety
Tends to do well as an only dog because they require human
companionship above all else.
Best suited to
Country dwelling, highly active, outdoorsy households, who relish the idea of having fun with
field sports, would prefer a protective guarding dog and where someone is around for much
of the day.
Page | 76
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Lakeland Terrier
A tough, small terrier with a huge personality. Happy and
enterprising, intelligent. Has great enthusiasm and zest for life.
This terrier is fearless and spirited, will stand ground if
challenged and is tenacious. They adore human
companionship and have great sense of fun.
Terrier
Lake District, north west England, around 1800
Working. Fox hunters, often working with hounds over high
hills and long distances.
13-15 inches
16-18lbs
Black and tan mix, red, wheaten, sometimes chocolate and
liver. All black is found in Scandinavian breed lines.
High. 1.5 to 2 hours per day, more would be relished. This is
an energetic breed that goes outdoors in all weathers. They
will do long hikes, but equally will chill occasionally by the
fireside. They love to race around and play ball and fetch
games.
Medium to low – they don‘t take up much space indoors but
the more exercise they have, the calmer they will be indoors.
A good sized securely fenced garden is an advantage,
especially at ground level, to prevent burrowing and escape.
They like to dig
Medium, Double coat with harsh top layer and fluffy under
layer.
Medium. Coat requires stripping or trimming 2-3 times a year
and a brush 2-3 times a week.
entertained.
Medium – tend to be reserved with strangers though early
socialisation can overcome some of this tendency.
Medium. Must be socialised early to avoid problems. Should
not be homed with small pets including cats due to strong prey
drive. Can be possessive and dominant with toys and food,
and with other dogs in and outside the home. Best homed with
the opposite sex dog.
Medium to high. Intelligent and alert dogs that need to be
mentally and physically stimulated. They love ball and fetch
games so flyball, gundog training or anything active and
mentally challenging will be a bonus.
Medium to high – they can bark a lot and therefore not a good
choice for apartments.
Very tough and hardy.
12-15 years
A strong owner and someone who can keep it stimulated.
Should not be left alone for long periods to avoid
destructiveness through boredom.
Best suited to
Page | 77
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Lhasa Apso
A small, long haired dog with a loving nature. Bonded with
their owners and love to snuggle. They like to borrow or nest
into things, and bury their food. A steadfast, comical
companion with a sense of humour.
Utility/non-sporting
Tibet
Working and companion. Indoor guards to temples, alerting
the monks to intruders.
10-11 inches
12-18 lbs
White, golden, rust and parti-coloured with various shadings.
With or without dark tips at the end of ears and beard.
Both
Medium. They like to play and go for walks. They will do as
much as you want, but will be happy to chase a ball around
inside as well.
Low
Heavy, long, straight, hard and very dense
Medium to high. The Lhasa‘s coat must be thoroughly brushed
and combed several times per week. Make sure to brush and
comb the thick undercoat as well, otherwise it will become
matted and tangled. Clip any excess hair between the pads of
the feet and keep the ears clean. Can be left long coated or
clipped shorter.
High, but preferably older or respectful children only. Does not
appreciate rough handling by younger children. Does well if
socialised and trained early.
Medium to low. Wary of strangers.
High if socialised and trained early.
Medium to low. Tough and strong willed. Eager to please but
assertive so needs firmness and consistency. Training needs
to be constantly continued throughout their lives, otherwise
they will rule the household.
Potentially high. In Tibet, the breed is called the ―Bark Lion
Sentinel Dog‖.
Generally tough, some hip dysplasia, diabetes, heart murmurs
and skin allergies.
12-15 years
Needs training to overcome separation anxiety
Best suited to
Households with older children, and singles or couples with limited living space, who like a
loyal protective dog, can provide firm „alpha‟ pack leadership and where ideally there is
someone around for part of the day.
Page | 78
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Lowchen (Little Lion Dog)
The Lowchen is a small friendly, happy dog. Dogs of this breed
are both active and playful, and very intelligent. The Lowchen
makes a good pet for families with children and an excellent
house pet. It also loves to sit on your lap. Part of the Bichon
family of dogs. Rare breed.
Toy
Unclear – Western Europe e.g. Germany, Belgium, Italy all
possible.
Companion dog
10 - 14 inches
8-18lbs
Any colour, but most often seen in white, white and cream,
white and grey
Both – ideally suited to town
Medium. They have quite a bit of energy and will appreciate
daily walks and regular playtime in the house/garden. They
can do well in agility.
Low.
Medium, thick and wavy.
Medium. Can be clipped to keep coat down. However short
the coat is, particularly during the puppy to adolescent and
adolescent to adult stages, the hair comes out from the roots
and a complete daily groom is necessary. Grooming should
include regular attention to ears, teeth and nails. After a walk
check for barbed or sticky seeds.
High. They love humans and tend to follow them round the
house. They appreciate play and entertainment. However this
is a toy breed so rough handling should be avoided.
Medium to high if socialised early.
Not known
High. They do well in obedience.
High. Strangers approaching the house will be met with a loud
and intense barking. This barking can become a nuisance to
neighbours so training is required to discourage inappropriate
barking.
Patella luxation (slipped knee), cataracts, progressive retinal
atrophy (PRA)
12-15 years
Can suffer from separation anxiety.
Best suited to
Families with children, or singles and couples, with low living space and low to moderate
time for exercise, who can invest in training and would like to have their dog included in all
their activities.
Page | 79
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Maltese
The Maltese is one of the most intelligent and most gentle of all
the toy dog breeds. This lively and agile little toy dog loves to
play games. Maltese are bred to be cuddly companion dogs,
and thrive on love and attention. They are extremely lively and
playful.
Toy
Malta
Companion
8-10 inches
4-7 lbs
White, cream, white & cream
Both – especially suited to town
Low. Does well as an apartment dog and with a small garden
to run and play in. Will appreciate short walks of half an hour a
time. Sensitive to bad weather and would rather stay in on
cool or wet days.
Low
Medium to long, soft, fluffy, wavy
High. Maltese require a lot of grooming including daily
combing and brushing and regular bathing. The coat is parted
down the centre of the back and should almost reach the
ground. These dogs do not shed their hair and the dead hair
should be brushed and plucked out. The hair in front of their
eyes should be held up to allow the Maltese to see.
Can be snappish with smaller children‘s rough handling so
supervision is required. Older children will be fine. Early
socialisation can overcome this.
Medium. Maltese should have early socialisation while they are
puppies to give them more confidence and overcome their
distrust of strangers.
High.
High. Wants to please. Maltese enjoy obedience training and
some will do well in competitive obedience and agility
competitions.
High. Tends to be barky. Training can manage this.
Eye infections, teeth problems including gingivitis, liver
problems and low thyroid.
12-15 years
Difficult to housetrain. Use a wide collar or a harness to avoid
injury when taking them for a walk.
Best suited to
Town and city households with low living space and low to moderate exercise time, who
would like a really cuddly, funny and undemanding companion.
Page | 80
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Norfolk Terrier
The Norfolk is a happy and fearless small dog. It has a typical
lively, friendly, playful terrier temperament. Great personality.
The Norfolk is sociable, busy, and energetic. It has one of the
more gentle temperaments of the terrier group.
Terrier
East England
Working. Hunting vermin, rabbits and foxes.
10 inches
10-15lbs
Cream, tan, cream and tan, grizzle (black and tan)
Both – but prefer country
Medium. Minimum of an hour a day but will do lots more. Will
go for long walks in any kind of weather. They can do well as
apartment dogs with the right amount of outdoor exercise.
They dig – and will do this if left bored for long periods.
Low
Short, hard, close lying and wiry
Medium. Brush and comb once or twice per week, especially
beard and moustache. Pluck dead and excess hair about twice
per year. Trim excess hair between the paw pads.
High. They have a gentle nature. However they do not
appreciate rough handling by younger children.
Medium – can be reserved
High, especially if introduced as a puppy. They have been
bred to hunt in packs with other terriers.
High, unlike most other terriers.
Medium to high. Known to bark.
Cataracts are fairly common. Some other eye diseases.
Cramps, epilepsy, luxating patella and respiratory problems in
some breeding lines. Buyers of Norfolk puppies should ask to
see both the parents eye testing results.
12-15 years
Best suited to
Moderately active families with respectful children, moderately active singles and couples
(town or country) who like the outdoors but have limited space at home, and don‟t mind the
odd pothole in the garden.
Page | 81
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Norwich Terrier
Originally Norfolk and Norwich Terriers were classed as the
same breed. The Norwich is now classified as the one with the
upright ears. Personality traits almost identical to the Norfolk.
A happy and fearless small dog. It has a typical lively, friendly,
playful terrier temperament. Great personality. The Norfolk is
sociable, busy, and energetic. It has one of the more gentle
temperaments of the terrier group.
Terrier
East England
Working. Hunting vermin, rabbits and foxes.
10 inches
10-15lbs
Cream, tan, cream and tan, grizzle (black and tan)
Both – but prefer country
Medium. Minimum of an hour a day but will do lots more. Will
go for long walks in any kind of weather. They can do well as
apartment dogs with the right amount of outdoor exercise.
They dig – and will do this if left bored for long periods.
Low
Short, hard, close lying and wiry
Medium. Brush and comb once or twice per week, especially
beard and moustache. Pluck dead and excess hair about twice
per year. Trim excess hair between the paw pads.
High. They have a gentle nature. However they do not
appreciate rough handling by younger children.
Medium – can be reserved
High, especially if introduced as a puppy. They have been
bred to hunt in packs with other terriers.
High, unlike most other terriers.
Medium to high. Known to bark.
Cataracts are fairly common. Some other eye diseases.
Cramps, epilepsy, luxating patella and respiratory problems in
some breeding lines. Buyers of Norfolk puppies should ask to
see both the parents eye testing results.
12-15 years
Best suited to
Moderately active families with respectful children, moderately active singles and couples
(town or country) who like the outdoors but have limited space at home, and don‟t mind the
odd pothole in the garden.
Page | 82
Breed name
Special information
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Standard Poodle
There are three varieties of poodle. This profile is for the
standard poodle.
Very intelligent – one of the smartest dog breeds. lively, good
natured, friendly, proud, athletic, affectionate and extremely
loyal. This is a thinking dog.
Unknown – but used in Germany in the 1600s as a duck
retriever
Working. Duck retriever
Medium to large. 16-24 inches
45-65 lbs
Wide variety including black, white, cream, tan and particolour
Country or urban fringe with access to the country
High. Needs a lot of exercise and free running to let off steam.
2 hours per day, easily more. Loves to swim and anything
athletic – agility, flyball and field sports.
High – indoors and out. Large fenced garden is a must.
Short, soft, curly.
Medium to high. As pets the coat is usually clipped short to
minimise grooming. Should be washed fairly frequently as their
coats get greasy and should be trimmed every 6 weeks or so.
Remember to check the teeth frequently for tartar build-up and
hand pluck excessive hair growing inside the ears.
High. Loves people and bonds extremely well. The standard
poodle is great with older or more robust children.
High if socialised early
High if socialised early
High. Very smart, loves to learn. Does extremely well at
obedience, agility, etc.
Medium – will announce visitors by barking and make a good
watch dog.
Most common are bloat and a skin disease
(sebaceous adenitis). Other known are hip dysplasia,
diabetes, epilepsy, heart disease, eye disease (cataracts,
glaucoma) and Von Wilhelm's Disease. Poodle buyers should
ask to see both parents‘ hip dysplasia screening results as well
as eye testing results. Also ask about bloat, VWD and skin
diseases in the breeding line.
10-12 years
Best suited to
Active, outdoorsy, country households with lots of space, who would love to harness this
dog‟s great intelligence with lots of training and fun and energetic „sports‟.
Page | 83
Breed name
General
differences
compared to
Standard Poodle
Miniature Poodle
11-15 inches tall and weigh about 15lbs. Not quite as intelligent, easily
trained or child-friendly as the Standard Poodle, but still very bright and
love to learn.
Medium living and garden space required.
Still thrives on exercise and will easily adore 1 hour or more, plus lots
of playtime with children.
Getting along with the kids, the cat and the guinea pig is no problem
for the poodle. Lively and affectionate, they make wonderful
companion dogs.
They enjoy a busy life and love to be included in all family pursuits.
Miniatures adapt to life in more confined quarters as long as they get
adequate exercise.
They can be barky.
Best suited to
Moderately active singles and couples, or families, with moderate space who want a fun
companion and can invest in training, including to moderate any barking issues.
Breed name
General
differences
compared to
Standard Poodle
Toy Poodle
10 inches or less and weigh up to 11lbs.
Not quite as intelligent, easily trained or child-friendly as the Standard
Poodle, but still very bright and love to learn.
Medium living and garden space required.
Still thrives on exercise and will easily adore 1 hour or more.
Getting along with the kids, the cat and the guinea pig is no problem
for the poodle. Lively and affectionate, they make wonderful
companion dogs.
They enjoy a busy life and love to be included in all family pursuits.
Miniatures adapt to life in more confined quarters as long as they get
adequate exercise.
They can be barky
Best suited to
Town households, either families with older children or singles and couples. They can be
great for people with limited mobility and apartment dwellers.
Page | 84
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Portuguese Water Dog
A medium to large working dog. Happy, lively, affectionate and
bonds very well with humans. Very pleasant and stable
temperament. An exceptionally loyal dog, very devoted to all
family members. Loves to swim therefore not for the
houseproud.
Working
Portugal
Working. Herding fish into fishermans nets
17-23 inches
35-55lbs
Black, black and white, liver/chocolate, tan and cream
Country
High. This is dog bred to work. They require around 2 hours a
day, probably more. Exuberant and bouncy. Needs free
running to let off steam and preferably plenty of swimming.
Will love agility and field sports.
High. Large fenced garden is a must.
Long curly single coat that does not shed
High. Hair grows constantly, like human hair. Requires
trimming at least every 2 months, especially around the eyes to
keep them clear. Coat needs brushing at least once every 2
days.
High. Great with children.
High if socialised early. Does tend to bond with one family
member.
High
High. Requires mental stimulation as well as physical.
However the working heritage means this is a dog that can
think for themselves. So while they are eager to please, they
can also sometimes out think their owners.
Low to medium. Is alert to strangers and will bark to tell you,
but otherwise is a relatively low-noise dog.
GM1 gangliosidosis (storage disease), cataracts and
progressive retinal atrophy (PRA), hip dysplasia.
10-14 years
Is known to leap up at people. Will also stand on hind legs and
‗counter surf‘ kitchen surfaces. Early training required to
overcome this.
Best suited to
Highly active, sporty and country families, singles and couples who live near water, want a
thinking dog, and think grooming and training is excellent bonding time.
Page | 85
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Colours
Weight
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Hungarian Puli
A fun, lively and intelligent dog which loves people. They are
busy dogs that like to make sure that everything they are
involved in is being run properly and that all is well with their
people and property. Lots of energy and very playful. Has a
corded ‗dreadlock‘ coat.
Pastoral
Hungary
Working. Herding sheep
15-17 inches
Mainly black, white, cream or chocolate
22-33lbs
Both – best on country or urban fringe with access
Medium. 1-1.5 hours a day. The Puli is much less demanding
than its larger relative, the Komondor. Does enjoy lots of play
time and free running.
Medium
Long dreadlocks
High as a puppy, like the Komondor. A fully mature coat takes
about 2 years to form. Help will be needed to ensure the
dreadlocks do not turn into a single matted mass over the
whole dog. Drying after a bath takes at least a day. Check
regularly for parasites (fleas and ticks). Will need to be vigilant
about picking bits out of the coat after exercise.
High. They love to be entertained and make great playmates
for children.
Medium. As a herd and guard they will bark to alert you to
strangers. Also they can be wary of strangers and take a while
to accept them. If annoyed, they have been known to bite
strangers. Early socialisation is required.
High.
Medium. Pulis are very intelligent and fairly easy to train with
positive and kind methods. However they can be obstinate
and strong willed. Training must start immediately. Welltrained Pulis excel in agility and obedience.
Medium – will bark to alert to strangers
Retinal (eye) dysplasia and hip dysplasia
12-15 years
Best suited to
Active, sporty and country families, singles and couples who would like a fun, trainable and
moderately protective dog, and see grooming as beneficial bonding time.
Page | 86
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Peruvian Inca Orchid (Hairless)
A trim, fast and athletic dog which is loving, loyal and loves to
snuggle and kiss. Active, fun and very smart. Likes and needs
exercise and a lot of mental stimulation but also appreciates
sofa time. If it gets enough exercise and stimulation it will be
calm and peaceful in the house. A wide variety of
temperaments exist – some are more friendly, others more
wary. Do your research and check with the breeder on the
temperaments in their bloodlines. This is a rare breed.
Emerging/rare
Not classified by the AKC even within ‗Foundation‘
Peru
Companion
Peruvian Hairless Dogs vary in size :



Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Small (or pequeño) 25 - 40 cm (10 - 16 inches)
Medium (or medio) 40 - 50 cm (16 - 20 inches)
Large (or grande) 50 - 65 cm (20 - 26 inches)
Mostly they tend to come in the small/medium ranges
 Small 4 - 8 kg (9 - 18 lbs)
 Medium 8 - 12 kg (18 - 26 lbs)
 Large 12 - 25 kg (26 - 55 lbs)
Skin comes in a variety of colours – cream, blue, grey to almost
black, chocolate and mottled.
Both
Medium to high for the large variety. Medium for the other
sizes. They adapt well to city environments if given enough
exercise. The smaller ones will do well in apartments.
Recommended between 1 to 2 hours a day walking and regular
playtime.
Depends on the size. From low to medium. They do like a
good sized garden to run in.
Hairless
Medium to high. Does not require brushing but does require
regular skin care. Bathing to keep skin clean and reduce
clogged pores is required – frequency can be as much as twice
a week or as little as once a month. Very mild fragrance free
dog or baby shampoo is required. Also will require skin
moisturising. Sun cream is also required.
High with family members.
Medium to low. Will bark and can be wary. However there is a
wide range of temperaments in the breed, so they can also be
people orientated. Check with the breeder.
In the household they will be fine if given sufficient socialisation.
However outside they can be wary of other dogs – again
socialisation can help to overcome this.
Medium to high. Very smart and eager to please. They will like
activities such as agility and flyball.
Medium – makes a unique watchdog!
Some eye problems, dental problems and skin issues like
sunburn and skin cancer. Also seizures and strokes.
10-11 years
Page | 87
Breed name
Special needs
Peruvian Inca Orchid (Hairless)
1. Will need a coat in cool or cold weather
2. T shirt in summer plus sunscreen.
3. It should not be housed outdoors under any
circumstances
4. It bonds intensely so there is a risk of separation anxiety
and should never be left alone for long periods
5. They are very sensitive to toxins
6. Care should be taken in use of insecticides and
household products because absorption into the
bloodstream can be rapid due to low body fat. .
Best suited to
A moderately active family, or singles and couples, who live in a warm environment and are
after a very unique companion – a protective, affectionate couch snuggler that loves to run
and play and will promote conversation wherever they go!
Page | 88
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Russian Black Terrier
A tough, large and highly intelligent guard dog with a protective
nature and complete adoration of its family of humans. They
are courageous and fearless. Stable, calm temperaments
coupled with inner confidence.
Working – border patrols and guarding
Russia, developed by the Soviet Army and set a breed
standard in 1958
Working. A large protective guard dog.
26-30 inches
80-140lbs
Black
Medium to high. At least one hour a day, preferably more.
They will not exercise themselves in the garden if humans are
not there to play with them. Urban and even apartment living
can be ok if they are given enough exercise and stimulation.
Medium. Though they are large dogs they are not especially
active indoors.
Double coat, long, thick, wavy. Hard outer coat and soft under
layer. Coat grows 1.5 to 4 inches long.
Medium to high. Coat requires stripping or trimming 2-3 times
a year and a brush 2-3 times a week. Also make sure claws
are kept short.
They are gentle and affectionate with children. Great with
older children (7/8 years upwards) who will keep it entertained
and adored. They are fine with younger children but just
remember they‘re large and probably don‘t realise it.
Medium – tends to be reserved with strangers though early
socialisation can overcome some of this tendency. If strangers
are considered a threat they will defend heartily.
Generally high, but since they are a guard, they don‘t do well
with dominant dogs. Socialise them early and they are best
coming into the household as puppies, meeting with
established pets.
High. Very smart dogs with a love of people, but they do have
a strong streak, so firm, patient and consistent training is
needed. Can often be smarter than their owners!
Medium. Early socialisation and exposure can reduce
inappropriate barking.
Generally healthy, but ask for OFA clearances for hip
dysplasia, also check for any breed lines with elbow dysplasia,
hypothyroidism and von Willebrands disease. Also ask for
CERF eye scoring.
10-11 years
As pups, take care with exercise to avoid damaging the joints –
ask a breeder for advice.
Never to be housed outside away from humans
Best suited to
Country dwelling, outdoorsy households with a good amount of indoor space, who would like
a family protector, and can give firm, patient training.
Page | 89
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Schnauzer – Standard
A medium sized, robust dog with lots of energy. Intelligent,
fearless, loyal, affectionate, alert, energetic and strong willed.
They get on well with children but need firm training and high
exercise. Not recommended for first time dog owners.
Southern Germany, 15th century
Working. Guarding farms, herding, killing vermin and protecting
farmers on the way to market.
17-20 inches
35-45 lbs
Grey, black, shades of grey and white, grey and cream
Both
Medium to high. Will do as much exercise as you do.
However needs to be kept mentally and physically stimulated
otherwise can become bored, destructive and barky. Around
1.5 hours a day and in all weathers.
Medium to high. A good sized garden is a must.
Medium, coarse and wiry
Medium. Requires regular brushing and combing with special
attention to the long hair to avoid mats and tangles. Dead hair
must be hand stripped twice per year
Medium. Older and more considerate children.
Low, possibly medium. Must be socialised early. Is wary of
strangers and protective of their environment.
Medium, possibly low. Their guarding heritage means they
may not get on well with other household pets.
Medium. Intelligent, but strong willed. Must be actively
obedience trained at an early age. Must use challenging,
upbeat and reward-based training methods. Often excels at
conformation, obedience, agility, herding and tracking
competitions.
High. Is alert to new things and will guard and protect. Makes
a very good watchdog.
Mostly heart issues. Rare conditions are kidney stones and a
particular type of skin condition affecting the follicles. They can
suffer skin allergies particularly to food/fleas, and conjunctivitis.
12-15 years
Hip dysplasia and eye disease (such as cataracts, progressive
retinal atrophy and ―dry eye‖). Ask to see breeders hip and
eye scoring results.
Best suited to
Moderately to active families with older children, singles and couples, who can invest in
training to maximise this breed‟s potential, and who would like a protective watch dog.
Page | 90
Breed name
General differences
compared to
Standard Schnauzer
Giant Schnauzer
24-28 inches tall and weighing 90-99lbs. Giants have been used for
security and police work. Also not recommended for first time dog
owners.
They are a strong and energetic dog, needing 2+ hours a day
exercise. Ideally suited to country rather than town.
Though they love their families, they can play rough and their size
does not suit smaller or younger children.
Some concerns about temperament and hip dysplasia in the Giant
Schnauzer. These have been reduced through responsible breeding
and screening. There have been cases of epilepsy, hypothyroidism
and cataracts.
Like the Standard, are protective and vocal.
Best suited to
Moderately to highly active families with older children, singles and couples, who can invest
in training to maximise this breed‟s potential, and who would like a protective watch dog.
Breed name
General differences
compared to
Standard Schnauzer
Miniature Schnauzer
13-14 inches tall and 15—18lbs.
Will happily do an hour a day exercise. Is the most popular of the
three breeds because it fits many lifestyles. The miniature is usually
contented and not destructive when left alone
It likes to please and learn, but it does not enjoy repetitive training.
The Mini gets on well with children and other household pets if they
are introduced at an early age.
Makes an ideal family pet and watchdog. They are quite vocal and
will be quick to alert the family of any strangers approaching their
territory.
Best suited to
The Miniature Schnauzer suits a very wide range of households and activity levels, but take
care regarding the tendency to bark if in highly built up/apartment environments.
Page | 91
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Shih Tzu
The name means ‗Lion Dog‘. Happy, intelligent, playful,
affectionate, self confident and outgoing. Shih Tzus make great
apartment dogs and companion dogs for the elderly. They are
charming and devoted to their families, but like just about
everything. They make great travelling companions.
China/Tibet
Companion. Bred for the royal family in China.
8-11 inches
9-16lbs
White main colour with cream, tan or black patches or swathes
in the coat
Both – though ideally suited to town
Low. They appreciate a daily walk and regular playtime. But
will happily accompany active walkers on longer hikes.
Low – they can make good apartment dogs if given a regular
walk/exercise. A small garden is ideal for a run around.
Long, silky, slightly waved
High if kept long. The coat needs to be brushed and combed
thoroughly every day to prevent tangles and the dog‘s bottom
checked for cleanliness. Long hair can scratch the dog‘s eyes
and should be tied up with a hair band.
High. They love everyone, but are easily upset or frightened
by rough handling. Great with older and considerate children.
High
High
High, using positive and reward based training.
Low
Respiratory problems. Eye and eyelid disorders such as
cataracts, progressive retinal atrophy, dry-eye, entropion
(eyelids turning in), ectropion (eyelids turning out), and eye
lacerations. Also slipped knees and back problems. Kidney
problems. Von Willebrands disease and ear infections. Ask
for eye scoring results and orthopaedic scoring results.
10-14 years
Could be difficult to housetrain. May need to seek professional
help to overcome this. Does not do well in hot humid weather.
Best suited to
Town households with older children, or singles and couples, who have limited living space
and low to moderate time for exercise, but would like a really sociable, undemanding
companion dog. Makes a great dog for older and less mobile people.
Page | 92
Breed name
Special notes
Sealyham Terrier
Special and heartfelt thanks are given to the UK Sealyham
Terrier Breeders Association for their help in compiling this
profile. Without them this would not have been possible. Their
website and contact details can be found here:
http://www.davmar.freeuk.com/sealyhambreedersassoc.html
General description
A small, mainly white dog. Working breed lines still show a
fearless nature and keen hunting instinct. Alert but with a good
disposition – said to be one of the best temperaments of the
terrier group, with a calm relaxed attitude. Friendly, charming
and clownish with a sense of humour. Loves to play. A devoted
companion.
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
This is a rare breed which has been on the ‗at risk‘ register in
the UK. Is again gradually increasing in popularity.
Terrier
Wales
Working. Hunting rats and small game, including working with
foxhounds to burrow out foxes and badger. Now primarily a
companion dog.
Up to 12 inches
18-20lbs
Mainly white with some cream, tan and grey. Can come in all
black
Both. Does well in towns given exercise and play time.
Medium. About an hour a day free running. However this
terrier will go as far as you like. Can cover the ground at
considerable speed. However it also has a reputation of being a
couch potato, loving to curl up with its humans.
Low.
Medium to long. A double coat with a soft and dense undercoat
and an outer coat that is hard, wiry and weather-resistant.
Medium. Can be clipped to keep hair short. The Sealyham
requires regular grooming and combing to remove the loose
hair, to prevent the coat from matting. The Sealyham should be
stripped on a regular basis. Needs a bath about once a month.
High. This is a game little dog that loves to play and clown. If
socialised early makes a great child companion. However
might nip if handled roughly, and can be a little dominant.
Older and considerate children would be better but it depends
on the dog, child and early training.
Medium to high. Some are initially wary until they see the ‗pack
leader‘ is fine with the strangers, and then will accept them.
Other believe all humans were designed to adore them.
High with other dogs. This terrier was bred to work as part of a
larger hunting pack such as with otterhounds. With early
socialisation will happily blend with all other dogs. However any
dominant tendencies will need to be spotted and managed
early.
Medium to high. This dog loves to please. Positive rewardbased training should start right away, but generally reaps very
positive results. This dog has the occasional usual terrier
determination and stubbornness.
Page | 93
Breed name
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Sealyham Terrier
Medium. This dog has a big bark and will alert you to strangers
but is not yappy. Early training to remove unwanted and
inappropriate ‗alarms‘ yields positive results.
Deafness, eye problems (lens luxation – the lens pops out of
place), skin allergies. Should ensure you check the breeder‘s
eye testing/scoring results
12-15 years
Best suited to
A wide range of households in town and country. This is an all-round companion dog
equally at home in the field or by the fireside.
Page | 94
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Irish (Soft-Coated) Wheaten Terrier
A medium sized dog. The Wheaten Terrier is cheerful, active,
busy, playful and affectionate. Independent and confident.
Quite intelligent. Wilful and stubborn but in a good natured
way. Will follow owners around at all times. Can dig in the
garden.
Terrier
Ireland
Working. Herding (mainly cattle), hunting badgers, rabbits and
foxes. Guarding and sometimes a gun dog.
17-19 inches
30-40lbs
Creams, fawns and tans (hence ‗wheaten‘)
Both. Does very well in country.
Medium to high. Does require quite a bit of exercise. 1.5
hours a day is recommended. Will easily do more. Great for
agility and flyball.
Medium, indoors and out. A large fenced garden to play in
would be an advantage.
Soft, long, wavy
Medium to high. The hair grows constantly and requires
trimming. As puppies they will need daily grooming. As adult,
should be combed 2-3 times a week to prevent tangles.
Medium. Generally gets on well with children. Loves to play
and be kept entertained but is high energy and assertive
therefore older children are more suitable.
High. An outgoing and friendly dog.
Medium to high. Mostly fine but will need training and
socialisation early.
Medium. Requires positive rewards and calm, persistent
training. You need to get and hold their attention. Needs to
have obedience training as they can be assertive and strong
willed. They can also be manipulative.
Medium to high. They make good watchdogs because they
will alert to a strange presence around their territory, even
though they then get along well with strangers.
Most common are protein losing nephropathy (PLN) and
protein losing enteropathy (PLE). PLN is where the dog loses
protein from the kidneys; PLE is where the dog loses protein
from the intestine. Wheaten owners are recommended to test
their dogs at least yearly. Other wheaten health issues are
renal dysplasia, inflammatory bowel disease, Addison's
disease and cancer.
12-14 years.
Wheatens JUMP. It can be difficult to break them of this if it is
allowed from when they are puppies. They are very athletic
and capable of jumping very high. Have a secure, tall fence!
Best suited to
Moderately active to active households, including ones with older or robust children, who
want a fun, athletic companion, are interested in training to make the best of this breed and
don‟t mind the odd pothole in the garden.
Page | 95
Breed name
General summary
Group
Originally from
Original purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colour
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Spanish Water Dog
A lively, energetic, athletic dog. Quite an all-purpose breed
used for guarding, herding, hunting, diving and also gundog
abilities. Highly intelligent working dogs which learn quickly and
have amazing memories. Can be bossy if allowed to lead the
pack – don‘t be fooled by their cute looks. They thrive on
contact with their family. Not for the houseproud!
Working, also Emerging or Foundation
Spain, possibly around 1100 AD
Working. Hunting, diving, herding and guard.
16 to 20 inches
31 – 49 lbs
All colours – any single colour or single colour with white. Black
and tan or tricolour are not accepted in the standard.
Both – but by far the best in Country
High. 2 hours a day or more. Bred to work – they excel at and
enjoy exercise – as much as you can give. A high energy dog.
Will excel at and lap up agility, flyball, gundog and other field
sports given the chance. Regular swimming is recommended!
Medium indoors if given enough exercise. A large secure
garden is desirable. They can jump high.
Medium to long, dense and curly.
Low to medium. Cords should be pulled apart with fingers to
prevent matting. Matted cords should be clipped off. Do not
brush or comb. Cords should be clipped once or twice a year.
Bathe only when dirty and allow to air dry.
High. They will engage in fun willingly and have boundless
energy. Children need to be involved in training for best
results.
Medium to low. Wary of strangers and will guard – weighing
up people before accepting them. Early socialisation can help.
Moderate to high. Will guard owners and protect against
perceived threats. Early socialisation is very important – see
special needs.
High. They love human companionship and relish work. Highly
intelligent and energetic – they require a lot of physical and
mental stimulation. Training needs to be positive, consistent
and firm to overcome their bossiness.
Moderate. This is a guarding breed. Quite vocal – early
training can help overcome inappropriate barking.
Hip dysplasia (get CERF scoring), Progressive Retinal
Atrophy, hypothyroidism, Addison‘s Disease and Endocrine
Pancreatic Insufficiency. Check with the breeder.
Around 14 years
A primitive dog with 2 ‗fear imprint‘ periods. Good socialisation
is vital in both. The first is before 20 weeks. The second period
starts at about 9 months of age and can be around 6 months
long. Get advice from the breeder on what to expect and how
to hande this.
Best suited to
A highly active and energetic country household, with an owner / owners willing to give the
training, exercise, and other physical and mental stimulation this breed requires, and where
house cleanliness is not their top priority.
Page | 96
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Tibetan Terrier
Lively, good-natured and loyal companion. Has a fun and
engaging personality. Happy, affectionate and very intelligent.
This breed is very athletic and agile and can use its paws to
hold toys and open cabinet doors. Sometimes stubborn and
mischievous. Ok for first time dog owners.
Tibet
Working and companion, guarding nomadic camps and
monasteries. Was thought to bring good luck.
14-16 inches
20-30lbs
White and black, cream and black, cream/fawn with black
fringes
Both, but does especially well in country
Medium to high. Despite their small size they love to be on the
go. Around 1-1.5 hours per day free running, or more. Loves
games especially ball and fetch ones such as agility and flyball.
Loves to play in the snow.
Medium. A good-sized fenced garden would be an advantage
for running and playing. If it gets sufficient outdoor exercise a
TT will be calm indoors.
Long, harsh and double to keep out the cold.
High. Regular grooming to prevent mats from forming. During
the development period of the coat this is particularly
important. Remove excess hair from ears and between the
pads of the feet. Coat around ears and anus should be kept
clean and free from excess hair to prevent infection. And the
eye area should be checked on a regular basis.
High. Properly socialized TT‘s get along well with respectful
and/or older children.
Medium. Wary and cautious until the stranger is accepted, but
not aggressive.
High. Properly socialised will get along with other dogs and
the family cat.
Medium to high. They mature slowly and will need puppy
socialization and training longer than many other faster
maturing breeds. The breed is slightly stubborn but since it is
intelligent and wants to please its owner, reward-based training
will succeed. Needs to see the point in what they are being
asked to do.
Has strong watch dog abilities without being excessively barky
Tough and hardy. However, puppies should be purchased
from parents who have been both hip-scored and eye tested
as PRA (progressive retinal atrophy), Lens Luxation (lens
popping out) and Hip Dysplasia are potential problems.
13-15 years
Best suited to
Moderately active to active households in cooler climates, with moderate living space, who
will relish time training and doing fun activities, but would like a breed with a protective
nature.
Page | 97
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Welsh Terrier
Welshies are energetic, alert, inquisitive, loyal and devoted to
their families. The more exercise he gets the better he will
behave. They bond very closely with their families, and enjoy
games with children. They are robust and will stand their
ground if challenged.
Terrier
Wales (UK)
Working. Hunting otter, fox and badger
14-15 inches
20-22lbs
Tan and black
Preferably country, or urban fringe with good country access.
High. Will require around 2 hours a day in two walks, plus
playing some energetic ball or frisbee games. They love to
swim. They require a securely and high fenced garden to stop
them going in search of prey. They love to dig so the more
exercise outside the home, the better. Agility, flyball and other
activities are recommended.
Low indoors. Medium to high outdoors – depends on exercise
given outside the home.
Short to medium, harsh and wiry
Medium. As pets clipping is usual. Some plucking of dead hair
is recommended. Most owners have them professionally
groomed about every 3 months. Regular grooming will prevent
skin complications, especially around their ears and eyes.
High. Welsh Terriers do well with older children as they are
patient and always ready for a game but they can be too
possessive of their toys and food to be around young children.
Medium to low. Wary and make good watchdogs.
Medium. Generally fine with other family dogs and cats if
socialised early. However, outdoors they won‘t back down if
challenged by other strange dogs and they have a high prey
drive towards all small creatures including strange cats.
Happiest as an only dog with human company.
Welsh Terriers are intelligent and can be trained to compete in
sports such as agility and flyball. They have a strong
independent streak and will take advantage of their families
unless they are confident and consistent about applying the
household rules.
Not known
Some blood lines have shown inherited diseases like epilepsy,
glaucoma, skin allergies and hypothyroidism (low thyroid).
12-15 years
Neutering male non-show dogs will prevent territory marking
(indoors) and reduce any aggressive tendencies. Check with
your vet regarding any special needs for flea treatment
because of the coat thickness. Manmade fibre can cause ear
and chest infections, therefore it is best to use cotton bedding.
Best suited to
Active households with moderate living space and a secure garden, including people who
jog and cycle or will enjoy activities to keep the Welshie stimulated mentally and physically,
and who can show strong leadership.
Page | 98
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
West Highland White Terrier
A small, cheerful, loyal, affectionate white dog. They are alert,
active and courageous. They can also be cunning and
stubborn. They make excellent playmates for children. Do not
let their cuteness fool you or they will d rule the household.
Terrier
Scotland
Working. Hunting otter, fox and rats. Now mostly a
companion dog.
10-11 inches
15-22lbs
White
Both
Medium to high. They require around 1.5 hours a day. This
NOT a dog for inactive people. They love to play ball and will
dig (garden, carpet) if not given enough exercise.
Low indoors. A medium well-fenced garden is essential.
Medium, thick
Medium. Must not be bathed too often. When dirty it is best to
let the mud dry and brush it off. The coat should be hand
plucked two or three times a year. A weekly brush is needed to
get rid of loose hairs.
High. They accept and engage in rough play. However care
and supervision is needed with younger children due to their
liveliness and tendency to be dominant.
High. Sociable but will announce people‘s arrival.
Medium. They get on with others of their breed. Must be
socialised with cats early. Early social training required if they
have to live with other dogs as they can be rather dominant.
Medium. Intelligent but rather naughty so remain consistent
and persistent in their training.
High. With early training, excessive barking can be dealt with.
However, if left unattended, untrained and un-exercised they
can rapidly become a nuisance.
Deafness, inherited liver defects, skin disorders, epidermic
dysplasia, Krabbe's Disease, craniomandibular osteopathy
(Westie jaw), dry eye, Legg-Calve-Perthes disease, diabetes,
heart disease, cataracts, deafness, and luxated patella
(dislocated kneecap). Prospective buyers should ask for
parents‘ eye and orthopaedic scoring results.
13-14 years
Best suited to
Moderately active to active households, including families with children who can keep them
entertained, but provide strong leadership and not leave them unattended for long periods.
Page | 99
Breed name
Special notes
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Xoloitxcuintle – Mexican Hairless
Generally known as the Xolo (pronounced Zo-Lo). They come
in hairless and coated. Around 75% are hairless and this is the
breed type we will cover. Is rare and was under threat of
extinction. Is accepted and recorded fully by the Canadian
Kennel Club and the United Kingdom Kennel Club. Is on the
American Kennel Club register of rare breeds/Foundation
Stock Service.
A dog with strength, grace and intelligence. Extremely
expressive use of body language to communicate. Happy and
alert. Loyal with family and aloof with strangers but not
aggressive. Adults are reasonably calm, but puppies are noisy
and unruly. They are intensely devoted to their owners and will
follow them everywhere, all the time if possible. They will tend
to bond with one person. They have a primitive and working
temperament, and strong prey drive.
Varies depending on size and Kennel Club.
Mexico. One of the world‘s oldest breeds, dating back at least
3000 years.
Working hunter, guard and companion.
This breed comes in 3 sizes.
 Toy - 9 to 13 3/4 inches
 Miniature - 13 3/4 to 18 inches
 Standard - 18 to 22 3/4 inches
Toy - 5 to 15 lbs
Miniature – 15 to 25 lbs
Standard – 25 to 40lbs
Skin colour is generally grey, chocolate or tan
Toy and Miniature – both
Standard – preferably country
Depends on the size you choose. However these are primitive
hunting dogs and enjoy their exercise.
Toy – an hour a day, Miniature up to 2 hours a day.
A Standard Xolo will suit an active outdoorsy lifestyle and be a
willing participant in demanding sports such as running/cycling,
plus agility. They excel in any dog sport.
Low to medium. A large securely high fenced garden (2
metres or more) is an advantage for a Standard Xolo.
Hairless, sometimes with a patch of hairs on the head.
Medium. Similar to American Hairless terriers, though their skin
is tougher. It depends on the dog and their skin type.
Occasional bathing with very mild fragrance free dog or baby
shampoo is required. Also will require skin moisturising. Sun
cream is also required, but not too much.
Tends to be high if socialised early. Seek specialist advice
from a Xolo breeder on this.
Medium, sometimes low indoors. Can be much more sociable
off their own territory. If well socialized as a puppy, they will
enjoy, or at least accept, being handled and touched by other
people. Wary, but can warm up quickly. They are known to
possess exceptional guard dog ability.
In the house, with socialisation, they will be fine. However they
have strong prey drives and can easily climb and jump fences
to chase small animals. However their primitive nature comes
Page | 100
Breed name
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Xoloitxcuintle – Mexican Hairless
to the fore when challenged as they will not back down from a
fight. Needs attention and early high socialisation to manage
this.
Medium to high. The breed has definite primitive temperament
traits and requires extensive socialization and training from
eight weeks to a year of age. Dog obedience class is a must.
The larger ones can be serious troublemakers due to their high
intelligence and strong personalities. All sizes will try and train
their owners if allowed to. However they love to learn and
please their owners so their smartness means they will easily
pick up commands, tricks etc. Keep it fun, entertaining and
positive.
Medium. Reasonably quiet and laid back unless they hear
some alarming noises. They are very good watchdogs and
protect their home and family with duty and devotion.
Very healthy and functional – a dog formed by evolution rather
than man.
14-16 years
High risk of separation anxiety which will require patience and
training to overcome. Should not be left alone all day.
Certainly must not be left alone for long periods until fully
matured.
Requires some sunscreen in summer and coat in winter.
Sensitive to extreme heat.
Best suited to
Active households with a securely fenced garden, in a moderate climate, willing to invest
time in grooming, training/sports and being a „pack leader‟, and preferably where there is
someone around much of the day.
Page | 101
Breed name
General description
Group
Originally from
Original Purpose
Size/height
Weight
Colours
Town or Country
Exercise Needs &
Activity Level
Coat type
dogs/pets
Trainability
Noise level
Lifespan
Special needs
Yorkshire Terrier (Yorkie)
A fun, lively, feisty, game little dog with a huge personality.
The Yorkie still thinks it‘s a wolf. They are much tougher than
they look and not a fashion accessory. Can be stubborn, like
all terriers, and also pretty intelligent.
Terrier
North England
Working. Getting rid of rats in coal mines. Now a companion
dog.
7-9 inches
5-7 lbs
Tan and black
Both, but does especially well in towns.
Low. Up to an hour a day plus play time. Regular short walks
suit them, but they are tough and can do longer walks if used
to it. They like to play ball games and fetch.
Low, indoors and out.
Long, silky.
The traditional long coat is extremely high maintenance. The
silky hair has to be brushed and combed daily. Requires
regular bathing and coat oiling to prevent breakage. For easy
maintenance, have the coat clipped.
High with older, calm and more considerate children. Not with
toddlers - it does not cope well with rough handling.
Medium to high. With good early socialisation they can get
along well with all humans.
Medium. Yorkies get along well with other pets if well
socialised from puppyhood. Can be very possessive of their
food and toys. Outdoors, the Yorkie can be aggressive towards
other dogs - definitely a wolf in miniature.
Medium to high. Yorkies don‘t like lead (leash) walking and
must be trained to accept it. You must be firm and consistent,
even with these tiny dogs, as they can be stubborn.
High. Makes a good watchdog. Early training is required to
remove excessive barking tendencies. If left alone and
unoccupied can quickly become a nuisance.
Bad teeth. There is a wide range of other diseases
known/reported in the breed and their susceptibility to illness is
high. Find out as much as you can on Yorkie health from the
internet and go to a breeder well armed to ask specifically
about this aspect. Ask the breeder in detail about each of the
known health issues and whether any of these show in their
breed lines. Make sure your contract of ownership includes a
suitable clause about what happens in the event of your Yorkie
developing ill-health.
12-14 years
The coat provides little protection these days and this breed
needs a coat for cooler, wetter climates.
Most suited to
Low to moderately active households, including those with younger children, apartment
dwellers and those with limited mobility, who can invest time in training and grooming, and
where there is companionship for at least part of the day.
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Shortlisting ‘your’ breeds
Hopefully by now you have a list of the low allergy dog breeds dogs that might suit you.
Don‘t worry if this is a long list.
Look at your list and the breed profiles more carefully and see which ones you can definitely
cross off. If you have used the form, you could cross off any which don‘t score more than a
certain amount. You might for example decide that any which score 7/10 or more are on
your shortlist.
After this you might have a list of say 5 or 6 dog breeds that look like they fit your needs.
The next step is to find a breeder and check them out. Doing this successfully is in the next
chapter.
Cross breed ‘designer dogs’ and your allergy – a very important health
warning
Cross breeds, as their name says, are the result of a cross between two or more breeds of
dog.
In recent years, certain crosses have become fashionable. These have become known as
‗designer dogs‘. These were ‗designed‘ to ideally give the puppies certain characteristics
and temperaments from both parents.
The same is true of low allergy dogs. Some of the more popular ‗designer dogs‘ involving
either partly or wholly low allergy crosses are:
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Labradoodle – Labrador (not low allergy) and Poodle (low allergy)
Goldendoodle – Golden Retriever (not low allergy) and Poodle (low allergy)
Cockerpoo – Cocker Spaniel (not low allergy) and a Poodle (low allergy)
Schnoodle – Schnauzer and Poodle (both low allergy)
Shorkie – Shih Tzu and Yorkshire terrier (both low allergy)
Maltepoo – Maltese and Poodle (both low allergy)
Whoodle – Wheaten Terrier and Poodle (both low allergy)
A good example of a designer dog is the Labradoodle. This was designed to give the
puppies the more graceful build, intelligence and low allergy nature of the Poodle, with the
trainability and all-people friendliness of the Labrador.
However, there is no guarantee that a Labradoodle will be low allergy. This is why:
In a cross breeding, each puppy receives half of its genes from its father and half
from its mother. However, this does not mean that they get an equal share of half
the characteristics.
What happens is the puppies get the genes at random. This means that in a single
litter of cross bred puppies, no two will be the same. In a litter of Labradoodles,
some of the puppies will have strong Labrador genetics, others will be strongly
Poodle, and others will be in between.
So if you were to choose a Labradoodle puppy thinking you were safe, you would be
playing Russian roulette with your health. You could be lucky and get all the low
allergy properties of the Poodle. But you could easily get none of them. And
therefore you‘d get a ton of allergic reaction, and have to hand the puppy back.
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Many people have been sold Labradoodles as ‗non allergic‘ and found out to their
cost that this was not the case. You only have to look on dog forums to see
examples of this.
Please carefully read the guidance which follows if you are thinking of a cross breed:
**
Your Health Warning
**
1. Designer dogs which have a ‘not low allergy’ parent are not recommended,
including by any Kennel Club, for dog allergy sufferers.
Any designer breed is not usually recognised by your country‘s Kennel Club. Kennel clubs
register ‗pure‘ breeds, not crosses. If certain crosses become established, the kennel clubs
might accept them as a new breed. However the process takes time – in some cases
many years.
Because kennel clubs only deal in ‗pure‘ breeds, this means that for a designer low allergy
dog their pedigrees, breed lines, health status and breeder acceptability are also not
recorded.
And even some pure breeds formerly considered low allergy have also been removed from
lists – examples include the Basenji. This used to be recommended by the American
Kennel Club, but isn‘t any more.
In recent years some breeders have tried to argue that a Labradoodle bred to a
Labradoodle is low allergy. Both parents still have Labrador genes so this cannot be
guaranteed. The same goes for any established breeding line where low allergy breed has
been bred with a ‗not low allergy‘ one.
It is ALWAYS safest not to go near a puppy where the breed lines involve genetics from a
not low allergy breed, however far back these are. If you do, you must be very careful with
your testing.
2. You should not get a cross-bred puppy from a breeder, unless both parents are
from the ‘accepted’ breed profiles that you have just been given.
If you mix a low allergy breed with a ‗normal‘ breed, there is no guarantee that the low
allergy characteristics will be present in your puppy. As we have just seen, genes from the
parents are assigned at random. Your puppy could be low allergy, or high allergy, or
somewhere in between.
The problem is that you would not necessarily know that until the puppy had started to grow
and develop into its future self. By which time you might have had it several months.
If you want to have the characteristics of two low allergy breeds together, make sure that
the breeding involves only those dogs on the accepted list. Even then, you will need to do
your allergy testing properly.
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3. If you find a litter of puppies from two low allergy dogs in the breed profiles, you
must make sure that the parents are what the breeder says they are.
You should ask to see the results of DNA testing to prove the parentage if this is available.
You should also see if you can include a clause which guarantees that, if the puppy is
found not to be from those parents, and triggers your allergy, that the breeder will accept it
back with no penalties and a full refund of what you paid.
4. You should be very careful if adopting a cross breed from rescue, even if the
rescue tells you that both parents are from the breed profiles you have been given.
Usually, rescue centres do not know for certain the full parentage of any adult cross-bred
dog or cross-bred puppies they have for adoption. The only exception to this is if both
parents have come in with the puppies. Even so, you are unlikely to get any DNA profiling.
The safest way of making sure you know what you are getting is to adopt an adult dog,
rather than a puppy. This is because with adults, you can be far more certain that the dog
is from that breed.
However, a rescue ‗centre‘ with kennels will have housed lots of ‗high allergy‘ dogs so any
allergy testing you can do might give you the wrong results. You could end up ignoring a
dog which actually would have worked for you.
If you are adopting from a rescue organisation, you should ONLY take guaranteed pure
breeds from the breed profiles. This is because your health is most important. Most pure
breeds have a rescue arm where the puppies and dogs are fostered by someone who
already breeds those dogs. Testing of your allergy is more reliable that way.
5. You should remember that with a low-allergy cross breed, you will get a
combination of both sets of breed characteristics.
You need to be careful to check that BOTH sets of characteristics are ok for you before
proceeding. Remember you can also get a wide variation of sizes and well as
temperaments!
For example, in a litter of Maltepoo (Maltese and Poodle – both low allergy) puppies, you
might choose a puppy that:
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grows into a small dog which looks like a Poodle and acts like a Maltese,
grows tall like a Poodle, has a Maltese coat, but acts like both!
If you choose a cross-breed low allergy puppy at 10-12 weeks of age, you cannot judge
fully how it will develop. This is why you need to make sure that both sets of breed
personalities are ok for you. Their personalities and looks can‘t be made to order!
If you don‘t you could get all the things you don‘t want from the two breeds, and end up with
a dog which is totally unsuitable for your household and lifestyle.
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Key points
1. Breeds which match your lifestyle should simply leap off the page if you‘ve done your
home profiling right
2. It‘s fine to have a long list to begin with – take your time
3. Use appropriate criteria to refine your shortlist – how you do that depends on you
4. With designer dogs, always choose crosses between two low allergy breeds to be on
the safe side.
5. When choosing a cross breed, check both sets of breed characteristics to make sure
they work for you.
6. Check DNA results if possible to prove the parentage of cross-bred puppies.
Summary
In this chapter, you‘ve learned:
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All about the different low allergy breeds you might be able to choose from – what
types of environments they suit and the characteristics they have
How to shortlist these
Which breeds you‘re ready to check out with suitable breeders, and
An important health warning and some useful tips about choosing from ‗designer dog‘
breeds.
Now you‘re ready to find a good breeder and look in depth at ‗your‘ breeds in the flesh.
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Chapter 6 – Finding a breeder
In this chapter
Now you have shortlisted your breeds, it‘s time to look at finding a breeder. In this chapter
we will look at:
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Then we will go onto a chapter all about meeting the breeder at their home.
Puppy or adult?
Breeders don‘t always just have puppies for homing.
Some will have adults for adoption. The reasons for these
are various and can include:
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The dog was kept for show but did not grow up to
be show quality
The dog was kept for show but did not have show
temperament or like the show ring
The dog was handed back to the breeder by its
Schnauzer puppy
original family (in this case you should press the
breeder on why this happened)
The dog has come through rescue. Some breeders are active in rescue and will
rehome unwanted dogs of ‗their‘ breed
The dog was kept for breeding and their breeding career has ended
Do not discount the option of taking an adult. Here are a few simple pointers on the plus and
minus sides of taking a puppy or an adult dog.
Puppies – for and against
For – A puppy can be your choice of what you feel connected to. You have the option
of doing all the training so the dog turns out as you want it (within reasonable limits of
what the breed type allows). You get a very close bond. You are fully aware of the
pedigree and heritage.
Against - Puppies are noisy, messy and require socialisation and training. It‘s like
having a baby with fur on. They can‘t be left unattended. They will soil and chew and
need a lot of attention. Your routines will be very different and very constrained for
some time. You don‘t fully know how the adult dog will turn out (temperament or looks
wise) even though you will have a good idea from the parents.
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Adults – for and against
For – an adult may already be socialised and fully trained. Adults can adapt better to
existing household routines and some may already be fine with being left for short or
long periods. They have fully matured so you know exactly what you are getting.
Against – you might not be able to obtain a pedigree or any kind of health certainty.
The dog might have been trained by someone else, or remained untrained, and does
not do the things you need or expect. You might not get the same level of bond.
However, if you do your homework properly, either of these options might suit you. Every
year, thousands of people adopt an adult dog successfully, and equally thousands find their
perfect puppy.
Where to start?
You want to start with the best and most reputable sources. These will greatly increase your
chances of finding a good breeder with healthy dogs. So here are the best ways of starting
your search.
1. Your national Kennel Club
Start with your national Kennel Club. Review their website for further information on
the breed standards and registered breeders. Look for breeders that are in an
accreditation scheme – this means they have been more thoroughly vetted by the
Kennel Club and are more likely to be responsible.
A ‗responsible breeder‘ means someone who is interested in preserving and
enhancing the breed. They will be interested in producing true to type dogs which you
can live with. It means they should be raising the dogs in a safe/home and loving
environment with good standards of care, food, vaccinations and early puppy
socialisation. It also means they are committed to reducing any health issues in the
breed lines.
2. Local kennel clubs
There may be local kennels clubs or county/territory clubs in your country. For
example in the U.S. most counties have local kennel clubs associated with AKC and
these clubs include people from any registered AKC breed. Also in Australia there are
territory-based Kennel Councils as well as the national one.
3. Breed Clubs and Associations
Many breeds have their own breed clubs and associations. Many of these have
websites. Ask your Kennel Club if there are breed associations available as a starting
point.
These associations are great sources of information. The people who run them are
usually passionate about the breed and own them directly. They will happily provide
further details about what these breeds are like to live with on a day to day basis. You
should contact them and talk to them in more detail about the breed before you find a
breeder.
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This will supplement this book and anything else you might have found out from the
internet or other sources after you did your short listing.
You can ask the breed club about breeders they would recommend. Some or all of
these might be on the club website, or you might get personal recommendations from
them.
4. Dog magazines
Published dog magazines are a good source of adverts from breeders. However, they
get a lot of their revenue from advertising so do not assume all breeders in the
magazine are responsible. Look for larger adverts which give you information such as:
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Photographs of the dogs
A good history of successful breeding (e.g. ‗established 1989‘)
Kennel Club registration details
Good show or working trials results
A home address and/or clear location where their kennel is
A landline phone number
A single breed or maybe two from the same kennel.
5. Dog websites
Websites which originate from breed clubs are likely to be the best and most
reputable. Then look for websites which are associated with well known dog
magazines. These will have articles and information about the breed, and breeder
adverts. Look for the same information on the websites as with the magazines
themselves.
6. Personal recommendation
If you know people with any of the breeds on your list, talk to them about the breeder
they bought the dog from. Ask them about what the dog has been like since they got
it. They have direct experience of living with that breed and with a dog from that
breeder.
They will usually be only too happy to tell you all the good points, and the bad ones. If
they have more than one dog from the same breeder, that is usually a very good
recommendation.
7. Registered pet sitters
Registered pet sitters and dog walkers could be quite a good source of information.
They will look after many different breeds of dog and might know of a breeder locally
who does one of your low allergy options, plus people who have dogs from that
breeder.
8. Veterinary surgeries
Veterinary surgeries might also be able to help you with finding a breeder. They see
lots of breeds of dog every day. You could ask the reception staff if they know of
anyone who is reputable.
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Vet surgeries will usually have adverts on their wall for animal related services. These
usually include people selling puppies. Depending on what breeds are on your
shortlist, you might find an advert for puppies there. Do not respond to one of these
unless the breeder has been highlighted to you by your kennel club and a breed
association.
9. Dog training clubs
Local dog training clubs can be a great source of information about finding good
breeders. They will have many people from all walks of life and many dog breeds
represented. The trainer may well know of some good breeders from their experience.
Or they may have owners in their club who are very happy with their dogs and would
be good to talk to.
10. Dog groomers and dog boarders (kennels or home boarding)
Dog groomers, and people that own kennels or home-board will have experience of all
kinds of breeds. So they will be able to offer their take on many of the different breeds
from just handling them.
However they have many (sometimes hundreds) of useful contacts in the dog world,
and with their customers. So they might be able to tell you some regular customers
who own those breeds and put you in contact. They might well know breeders directly.
11. Dog shows
Talking with enthusiasts and owners at the show ringside will give you tons of
information. These people love their breed and are typically thrilled to share all they
know about it. In fact you‘ll probably get bored long before they do. What they share
with you can give you some great personal insights on living with those breeds.
They will also share with you their ‗great‘ breeder and maybe even offer advice on
some you might not want to choose.
Cross reference the sources
Make sure that you cross-reference the information. This means check out all the sources
listed above. You will probably find that some breeder names come up several times. This
could mean either
 they are more likely to have good quality dogs, or
 they might be high volume (puppy farm or close to one)
Do an internet search on the breeder and see what pops up as a second check.
However, remember that you are trying to find breeders to talk to about a dog or dogs on
your low allergy shortlist. This is a restricted list. Some of these sources might not reveal
anything.
Always start with your national Kennel Club, local Kennel Club and a Breed Association if
there is one.
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What to avoid
To get the best dogs you need to go to highly reputable sources. Many people don‘t
appreciate what are not reputable sources. So here are things you should avoid when trying
to find a breeder:
Pet shops.
These are interested in selling you one of their puppies. They‘re not there to give you
breeder details.
Many of these won‘t be able to give you in depth information that you will need to
match the dog to your lifestyle. They definitely won‘t help you with your allergy testing.
You should be able to get a pedigree but some pet shops buy from puppy farms (mills)
to keep costs low and profits high.
Pet shops can be an outlet for puppy farms (puppy mills) and irresponsible breeding.
This can give rise to sickly puppies, temperament problems or ones which grow up to
deviate from the breed standards.
Small classified ads.
Small classifieds are a source of potential danger. Do not contact anyone from any
advert who gives limited information, and only a mobile number. These can be puppy
farms, puppy dealers and backyard breeders who have no interest in anything but the
money you pay them.
Their ads might look similar to this:
Cavalier King Charles puppies ready to go. KC registered. Wormed,
vaccinated and pedigree. £250 each. Pair £450. Call 07759 222151.
Consider with care any advert like this, especially if it only gives a mobile number.
Information in the advert on Kennel Club registration etc could be designed to mislead.
Why no home address or landline? And check the price offered. If it looks too good to
be true, it probably is.
If you called in response to such an advert, you would quite possibly get a vague and
uncooperative excuse for why you could not visit the breeder‘s home or get an address
or landline number. The chances are you would be asked to meet in a car park or
some other strange place. You might then get yet more excuses about why the
paperwork wasn‘t available. Also you would be highly unlikely to see the parents. You
could easily end up with a badly bred, bad tempered or sickly dog.
If you did go, and there was a puppy, you might well be swayed into taking it to get it
away from the ‗horrible breeder‘. This happens a lot. People take puppies because
they feel sorry for them and want to give them a good home. Actually that‘s not
helping, because it just encourages the breeder to keep going. You want (we want) to
make sure all breeders are lovely, kind, responsible and helpful.
The safest thing is never to go near an advert like this in the first place.
A ‘multiple breed’ breeder.
Be very careful of anyone who lists more than 2 breeds that they specialise in. In a
dog magazine for instance you might find adverts for several breeds that all have the
same contact details, even if the kennel names are different.
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Most high quality breeders specialise in one or two breeds only. This is because to
produce the best quality dogs, they do a lot of work on breed lines, history, health,
temperament and so on. They need to have developed an in-depth understanding of
their breed and what it is like to live with. So if you go to a specialist, you should get
the best – puppy, dog, advice and support.
People who list multiple breeds – 3, 4, 5 or sometimes more – should be avoided,
unless they come highly recommended by the Kennel Club and Breed Association for
the low-allergy breed you are interested in.
A note about responsible breeding
Responsible breeding is expensive. Most responsible breeders do what they do from a love
of the breed. They don‘t make money.
Here are some of the costs a responsible breeder might incur on a litter of puppies:
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$200 showing and coursing fees for the dam
$150 for the dam‘s hip and orthopaedic testing
$150-200 for Optigen eye testing
$80 for a thyroid test
$1,500 for a stud fee and travel expenses
$200 for extra food and supplements during and after the pregnancy
$75 for a whelping box for the dam to have her puppies in
$50 for supplies for delivering the puppy
$240 for 2 days minimum off-work for puppy delivery and care
$50 for an after-birth vet check
$300 for high quality puppy food
$300 for puppy checkups, vaccinations and worming
$30 to register the litter with their national Kennel Club
$30 to register and obtain a pedigree for each puppy
Total cost for the whole litter, assuming 6 puppies = $3,505
If this breeder sells the puppies for $600 each, they will make a profit of just $15 per puppy.
Breeding responsibly is an expensive business. There is usually no return – and often a loss
on the investment. Breeding responsibly is done out of passion for the breed and wanting to
see other people enjoy it. It‘s not about money.
Your breeder should be quite willing to talk about all of these costs. So why not ask. It
shows them you are interested.
The next chapter on meeting a breeder has a ton of other useful information to help you find
out if they really know their stuff, and care about their dogs.
A note about health
There are various tests which can be done to assure breeders of the soundness of their
dogs. Here are some of the common ones.
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OFA- Orthopaedic Foundation for Animals. They are most known for testing for
hip dysplasia, a crippling malformation of the hip joint. (Known as ‗hip scoring‘).
Ideally choose a dog with two generations or more of OFA clearances. OFA also
screens dogs for a wide variety of other genetic problems. Their databases are
searchable online, so you can check if a certain dog has been certified by OFA.

CERF- Canine Eye Registry Foundation. This certifies that a dog's eyes are free
from visible genetic disease (known as ‗eye scoring‘).. A breeding dog should have a
current CERF, done within the last year. Their database is also searchable online.

Optigen testing - Optigen specialise in eye disease testing and have a wide variety
of tests available based on what is known about the different breeds.
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Penn-HIP- This is a test of hip joint looseness. The lower the number, the tighter the
hip. It does not guarantee the dog is free from hip dysplasia.
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SAS- Subaortic stenosis. This is a heart condition found in several breeds,
including Golden Retrievers and Newfoundlands. Responsible breeders of possibly
affected breeds have their dogs screened for SAS and be able to show you the
results.
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Thyroid screened- Hypothyroidism is a common defect in many breeds, and
responsible breeders screen susceptible dogs to make certain that they have an
acceptable thyroid level.
Also, many breed clubs have ―health registries‖ where people can register their dogs and
provide paperwork proving this testing has been done. One example of this is
http://www.crestedhealth.com
Location of the breeder
You are choosing from a very specific list of low-allergy dogs, and you probably have a
shortlist of maybe 3 or 4 breeds you want to look at in detail. This means you might have to
travel some distance to meet a breeder.
You must not discount any breeder just because they live quite a long way from you. They
might even live overseas. Many people buy dogs from different countries because the
breeder is the right one for them and produces the dog type they want.
This also means you might have to wait a while for a puppy. That could be because you
need to save up for shipping (from overseas, or in-country).
Your interest should be in getting the right breeder with the right dog for you. This means
you should not discount anyone at this stage. This is especially true if you have one or more
rare low allergy breeds on your short list.
Some dogs are more difficult to find. That doesn‘t mean they aren‘t worth the effort. You
want a dog that goes with your household and allergy level so you should explore all the
opportunities properly. It will be worth it.
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Questions for your first contact with the breeder
This is where you get prepared for making that first exciting enquiry. So,
What do you want to know?
Some people are so excited about the prospect of getting a dog that they forget to write
down what they want to know.
In the short listing process there will be some aspects of the breed that you want to look at in
more detail. You might have some gaps in your knowledge. So your important questions
might be things like :
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How much does a puppy cost to buy?
How much does it cost to feed?
Do you know how much it would cost to have pet insurance?
What health conditions/diseases have you had in your dogs?
Does this breed bark much?
I‘ve got children 3 and 5 years old – would this breed be ok with them?
It‘s very important that you write down what you want to ask before you first make contact
via phone or e-mail. If you don‘t have a list of the main questions about that breed, you will
usually forget to ask something. And that something could be the most important question of
all.
Also, you might have more than one breeder to choose from. If you don‘t have a list of
questions, how will you be able to ask all breeders the same thing? It‘s really vital that you
are able to compare them. This means asking them all the same questions and seeing what
answers you get back.
Write down your answers!
If you are checking out say 3 breeds, each of which have 2 breeders you like the look of
from their website, then that‘s 6 sets of answers. If you don‘t record these then you will have
difficulty remembering which was which.
Don‘t let your enthusiasm get in the way of having a pen and paper handy!
Much of the first contact with the breeder might be done by e-mail. However there is no
substitute for a phone call. You might find out that you just like the sound of one breeder
better than another, or the way they speak to you is more helpful. Gut instinct, based on the
sound of someone, is very important.
To help you, what follows is a very simple blank form which you can simply print out and use
as many times as you want. This is just for the first contacts you make.
We also give you a lot more specific questions designed to help you assess the breeder‘s
home and other arrangements in the next chapter.
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Table 4 - Initial questions
Breed type :
_____________________________________________________
Breeder name :
_____________________________________________________
Question
Answer / Notes
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First contact
First contact is very important. You can find out a lot about a breeder from how they deal
with you as a person and a potential customer well before you meet up. These are some
key things to do and think about when making that first contact.
Do they have a website?
The first thing to look for is whether the breeder has a website. And then look at what
sort of information it has on it. Does it have information like:
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Home address, landline phone number, e-mail address, location map
Their history in the breed – how long they have been established
Kennel Club registration number
Whether they are part of a breed association
Pictures of them, their dogs and a list of names for all the dogs they have with
them
Details of previous litters and photos of how the puppies have grown up
The national Kennel Club breed standard
Pictures of where they live and where the dogs are kept
Show results
Testimonials or letters from people about their dogs
Information on what the breed is like to live with
Any factsheets or leaflets you can download which tells you what the breed is
like to live with
If the website has all this information in it, or most of it, this is a very good start. It tells
you that the breeder wants you to know all about them and how responsible they are.
Look at the information which is on the website. Ask yourself whether it tells you what
you want to know. Is it easy to use and does it make a good impression? Do you feel
that this person is trustworthy? If it does, then go forward to the next step – making
contact.
Is the breeder easy to deal with?
First of all, are there various ways in which you can make contact with the breeder – email, landline, mobile, or contact form in the website?
When you contact them by e-mail, or phone, do they respond quickly?
And how well do they respond? Does the information come pouring out almost without
you asking? Is the breeder bubbling over with enthusiasm and passion? If you can‘t
stop them talking excitedly about their dogs and the breed in general, this is what you
want.
Or is it difficult for you to get hold of? If information is slow to come through, or you
feel you‘re not getting much back, this usually demonstrates how easy the breeder will
be to deal with in general.
How well do they answer your questions? If you have asked specific questions, look
for whether you are getting detailed and helpful answers back. Does the information
answer the questions you have about the breed?
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Are they open to you just dropping in to look at their puppies, Sire and Dam? If they
prefer to meet somewhere else, question why. A good breeder won‘t mind impromptu
visits as they have already have a clean safe area in their home where puppies are.
Do you like them?
Do you like the sound of your breeder from their e-mails? Do you like the sound of
their voice and the way they answer questions? Are they helping you?
You want to have a good relationship with your breeder. In some cases this
relationship can be for the rest of the time you have your dog. Or it can be a lot longer.
People who meet as customer/breeder often become firm friends for the rest of their
lives. If you like one breeder instinctively over another, this can be just as important as
other factors when choosing where to go for your puppy.
Example of a bad story:
We purchased our first dog from a lady based on health, pedigree, Sire and Dam,
and looks. We were looking for a wonderful pet and a show dog as well. We were
new to showing and new to the breed. We chose the perfect dog and the perfectly
wrong breeder.
She was a very difficult lady who belittled everyone else in the breed and about
how she took dogs away from owners because of this or that. Red flag we ignored!
She had very specific “ideas” on how a dog should be trained that went against our
thinking. Red flag we ignored!
We were cautioned about the specific breeder by other people in the show world –
but were also told she had wonderful dogs. Red flag we ignored!
The end of the story is that we have a wonderful dog who is now finished as a show
dog and a breeder that does not like us because our philosophies are different.
Don‟t ignore the red flags!
Name and breed withheld for personal reasons
Example of a good story
Sometime in 2005 I was browsing websites when I came across plans for a litter
which really caught my eye. Being in the UK, the importing rules are really tough.
Most breeders won‟t look at exporting to the UK because of this.
Idly in passing I asked by e-mail “Don‟t suppose you‟d consider exporting to the UK,
would you?”.
To my amazement, the reply was “we exported an adult to Germany some years
ago and that went ok, so I don‟t see a problem”. After a long exchange of more and
more encouraging e-mails, I hopped onto a plane at the earliest opportunity!
I was greeted like an old friend, invited to stay as long as I wanted and given all the
information I could absorb. I now have a beautiful dog and a second dog family who
I visit whenever I can.
Beverley Nash, UK
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Do they ask you questions too?
A good breeder will find out about you, your home, and your lifestyle. Be prepared for
them to ask you some basic questions in return. Before they meet you they want to
know that you‘ve thought about owning a dog carefully, so that they are not wasting
your time or theirs.
If you‘ve made a successful contact you will like the sound of the breeder, and the way they
deal with you. You will be comfortable with the replies you‘ve had. They will have been
open, enthusiastic, passionate and detailed in their answers. They will have asked you
some questions in return about your home and circumstances. And they will have invited
you to visit them to find out more.
The homing questionnaire
A responsible breeder will ask you to fill out a homing questionnaire in advance. This is their
way of pre-checking that you are suitable for their puppies. You‘ve done some checking out
of them, so it‘s only fair they get the same opportunity.
You should be asked to send this to them before they agree to meet you.
The questionnaire will ask the same sort of questions about your lifestyle, needs and
preferences that you went through in Chapter 3. That‘s why it‘s really important to know
what you need right at the beginning.
The breeder will assess this form and may ask you some more questions to be clear on the
answers. Please do not be insulted by this. For a responsible breeder it is just as important
that you match the dog as much as the dog matches you. They need to be comfortable that
you understand your needs and will provide a happy, secure, lifelong home for their dog.
Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Decide if you prefer a puppy or an adult dog
Check out as many sources of info as possible, and cross reference them
Avoid pet shops, vague classified ads and people in multiple breeds
Write down what you want to know, and the answers!
Homing questionnaires protect you and the breeder – if asked, fill one out
Summary
In this chapter you have learned about :
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So now we will go on to actually meeting the breeder, and all the useful signs which tell you
if they really are good at what they do.
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Chapter 7 – Meeting the breeder
In this chapter
In this chapter you‘ll learn what to look for when you meet a breeder. Specifically we‘ll
cover:
 Getting prepared for meeting the breeder‘s dogs
 How to identify a responsible breeder
 What the breeder might want to know about you, and
 How and which to choose
Getting prepared for meeting the dogs
A breeder will usually have several adult dogs at home, as well as possibly a litter or two of
puppies. It‘s really important to know how to behave around them.
Breeders – good ones – put a lot of faith in the way their dogs react to visitors. So if you
aren‘t accepted or liked by the dogs, the chances are that you won‘t qualify. Understanding
how to treat dogs and understand their body language will help you enormously.
If you have children, their understanding of and respect for dogs will be closely scrutinised!
In your bonus report on ‗Dog Bites‘ you‘ll find all the detail you need to make interactions
with dogs a success, whatever circumstances they are in. This report was written to help
you with dogs in all walks of life, and not just when meeting a breeder. Make sure you have
read it and applied it before you go.
Here‘s a brief recap of what you (and any children) need to understand and do in the
breeder‘s home.
The rules of engagement are:
1. Follow the house rules – be guided by the breeder on what is and is not ok. Accept
their direction because they are helping you interact properly
2. Everyone needs to be interested – kids included. Saying you‘re interested needs to
be backed up by actions showing that you are all in agreement on a dog
3. Make like a tree – unless directed otherwise, stand still and then extend your hand in
a fist towards the dogs calmly so they can sniff you
4. Use open, non-threatening gestures - palms up, under the level of the dog‘s chin to
scratch affectionately, rather than over the top of the head; don‘t back dogs into
corners
5. Keep the noise down – no shrieking, screaming etc from the children as this can
startle the dogs or send them into ‗hunt‘ mode
6. No quick movements – e.g. children lunging or running up and down. Not only might
that agitate the dogs, it can lead to dog and human injuries
7. Ask first before you do anything with the dogs – it shows you are considerate and
willing to learn
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8. Respect the dog‘s space and possessions – don‘t try and interact with a dog that
clearly doesn‘t want to say hello, approach one in a crate or approach if it is with
toys/food, as this could be seen as a challenge
9. Respect senior dogs – older dogs might be less tolerant if they are in pain, or maybe
just a bit more grumpy with age! Respect a dog with a grey muzzle.
10. Take care with eye contact – some dogs see this as a direct challenge
11. Be seen – make sure the dog has seen you before you touch it, otherwise it might
startle
12. Scratch and stroke, don‘t hug – many dogs don‘t do well with hugging. On the other
hand, young children love it! Only allow kids to hang round the dog‘s neck if the
breeder says it‘s ok
13. No pulling, tugging or teasing – adults and children alike need to respect that dogs
are animals with personalities and dignity, not playthings. Treat the dogs nicely and
they will be nice to you.
If you follow these rules you should have a lovely, productive time with your breeder. If you
can manage to show all of these behaviours your breeder will be very impressed. Your
chances of a puppy or adult dog have just got a hundred times better, as this example
shows:
People who have children should be prepared not only to train their new puppy or
dog to behave properly around children but also prepare and train children how to
behave around the puppy/dog. Had someone come to look at one of our puppies
with their 7 year old son. Before the short visit was over, their son had stepped on
one of the puppies and strained its paw. The accident could have been averted if
their son had not been running back and forth.
We often hear stories of new dog owners who don‟t know what to do because one
of their kids got nipped at by new puppy or dog. Dogs typically nip because they are
scared…or something occurred that hurt them and they are telling you it hurt!
Michelle Harvey, Breeder of Chinese Crested Dogs
You need to spend time getting prepared and learning the rules of engagement. This
doesn‘t mean telling your kids 30 seconds before you go through the breeder‘s front door, or
you just having a cursory glance before you set off.
All of this and much more is in the bonus report Dog Bites : Improve Your Dog Safety
Is this a responsible breeder?
When you finally meet a breeder there are some very important things to look for. Not all of
these will be relevant to you, but use as many of them as you need to get a real feeling for
whether you want to have a puppy or an adult dog from them.
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This list is very detailed and for a good reason. You want to be as sure as you can be that
the breeder is a good one. You also want to be able to ask as many questions as are right
for you. Take a copy of this with you and use it to remind you.
Also go armed with paper and a pen to make notes.
The breeders will not all be able to demonstrate all of the things which follow. But they
should be able to do enough to give you confidence that they breed responsibly, and are
worth buying from.
A responsible breeder :
Understands the breed
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Has been involved with the breed for a reasonable length of time – not
necessarily as a breeder, but should be able to prove that they have a history
of being around the breed for some years
Can show you books and materials they have about the breed
Knows the breed standard well and can explain what the breed should be like
to you
Does not raise more than 2 breeds
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It is very unusual for a breeder to be competent and up-to-date in more than
two breeds.
It‘s very important that if the breeder has 2 breeds, BOTH breeds should be low
allergy (otherwise you could get an allergic reaction, but you would not know if
it was from the low allergy breed). However there are some suggestions for
how to deal with this later on.
Is involved with breed clubs
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Belongs to dog breed clubs and organizations
Complies with a breed club code of ethics
Can tell you the name of a key officer in one of the national breed clubs or
associations
Supports rescue organisations
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Supports (directly or with money) and may be active in rescue groups
Is fully aware that his actions might play some part in pet overpopulation and
euthanasia if he does not find good homes
Visits local rescue shelters to keep up with the latest trends in the types of dogs
coming and rehoming issues
Proves their dogs’ quality
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Proves their quality of dogs and suitability for breeding by competing for titles
and certificates in conformation, obedience, agility, field trialling, herding,
tracking etc.
Provides pedigrees which are filled with dogs who have obtained show
titles/working certificates
Will show you a copy of the breed standard and explain how their dogs comply
Can produce any records required of them by their national Kennel Club for
you on demand
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Breeds ‘pure’
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Never breeds from dogs without pedigrees
Researches genetics when choosing breeding partners
Knows the puppies' ancestry fully and can talk about this
Breeds to improve their own dogs, their specific bloodlines and the breed
Rarely breeds – maybe a litter once every 2-3 years - does not use dog
breeding as a business and strives for quality, not quantity
Rarely repeats a breeding to ensure that breed lines remain varied, and also to
reduce inbreeding and pet overpopulation
Breeds only dogs which meet the breed standard
Breeds only dogs with stable temperaments
Breeds only dogs over 2 years old, and a limited number of times
Uses a wide range of breeding partners and choices from all over the country almost never breeds their own males to their own females
Breeds for health
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Does all the required genetic and health testing and will provide proof
Does not breed animals with genetic defects or which are carriers of defects
Makes sure puppies are sold with a minimum 2 year health guarantee
Asks visitors are asked to remove shoes and wash hands to prevent spread of
parvovirus
Can show you that they have at least two generations worth of information,
pedigree and health scoring for this particular litter
Can prove that they have done some education on or research into basic dog
genetics
Can explain to you how two dogs that are perfectly healthy can produce
puppies that will suffer serious genetic disease.
Supports any health registry by contributing information on dogs in the
pedigree even if those dogs are not going to be bred.
Explains to you the seriousness of the diseases in the breed and if appropriate,
their bloodlines
Has great-grandparents of the litter which are still alive, or be able to discuss
them and what they died of
Will be happy to explain if any of their dogs had to be euthanized (put to sleep)
for health reasons, and why.
Explains their breeding goals
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Knows and can explain why they bred that particular litter – what it was they
were hoping to achieve from it or with it
Can tell you why they bred past litters and what these achieved
Will be able to at least show you the pups‘ mother in the flesh and if not the
father, will have pictures and other information like the pedigree and where the
father is.
Can tell you about the sire and dam‘s strengths and weaknesses against the
breed standard
Will discuss the breeding potential for the dog and if show quality, any plans
they might have, or you might have for this
If sold as breeding quality – might or will have requirements on you as the new
owner of who this dog can or cannot be bred to, ie they must give their
permission on the suitability of the mating.
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Cares deeply for their adult dogs
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Has their dogs indoors with them, as part of the family.
Provides warm and comfortable surroundings and bedding indoors
Has sufficient space outdoors for them to run and play safely, and appropriate
shelter
Does not have dogs in kennels outside or locked in crates indoors.
Only uses crates when necessary – e.g. for separation of males and females
when in season, or for confining because of injury/illness
Has dogs that you meet which are friendly, socialized, trained and happy to be
around humans
Does not own more dogs than he has room, time or money for
Has dogs are clean, groomed, exercised, healthy and happy
Feeds only premium dog food with meat as the main ingredient, and preferably
all human grade ingredients
Can show you all relevant care records such as vaccinations, vet checkups and
so on
Cares deeply for their puppies
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Can show you pictures and information about past litters
Sells puppies from a waiting list, to try and ensure the puppies are sold even
before the litter is conceived
Takes time off work before whelping to care for the dam and afterwards to
whelp the puppies and care for them in the first week
Ensures that the dam receives the right level of food and supplements before
and after birth, and can tell you about those
Stays home to care for puppies as required
Keeps pups with mother a minimum of 8 weeks (56 days) to ensure the pups
have the best access to mother‘s milk, sibling socialization and learning
important lessons from the mother
Socializes pups by systematically handling them and exposing them to various
noises, people, children and other animals before sending them to new homes
Has given each puppy the best opportunity for building self-confidence and
identity by giving each puppy individual attention away from its littermates on a
daily basis.
Requires pups back if new homes don't work out
Actually requires that their puppy is not to re-homed or re-sold without
permission, and requires you to contract that their puppy is never to end up in a
rescue or pet store
Raises all their puppies indoors
Can show you the puppies‘ pedigrees, worming and vaccination papers
Checks all owners carefully
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Sells puppies at a price which reflects their costs, care and attention
Sells at a price which discourages time wasters and poor quality homes
Sells pets only to buyers wanting to make their pup an indoor dog and part of
the family
Never sells to "impulse" buyers
Never sells two pups at the same time to a novice (new dog owners)
Interviews prospective buyers, checks home and references, and requires a
homing questionnaire
Wants to meet whole family
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Requires children to prove themselves appropriate to being in a household with
a dog
Will check your disposable income and sells only to buyers with enough
disposable income (The AKC reports it costs $1327 per year to properly care
for a dog)
Sells only to buyers who make the pup's safety a priority
Notices whether the buyer has asked important questions regarding contract
provisions, health testing, breed standards, temperament, appropriate levels of
exercise, and similar evidence of taking the responsibility seriously
Won't sell if their criteria are not met
Matches the puppy to the owner
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Will show you the whole litter of pups
Tests pups to match their temperaments and drives with buyers' personalities
and lifestyles
Can honestly evaluate pups' quality and explain whether it is pet or show
quality
Will not sell a puppy if they believe it is not matched to the owner
Can explain why they think one pup works better for you over another
After questioning, will be able to explain whether they think the breed is right for
you, or not, and why
Gives references willingly
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Volunteers to give you references, even a long list over the last few years
which you can choose from at random
References include their vet and current owners of their dogs
Gives initial and ongoing advice
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Will happily answer any questions you have, and as many times as you like for
as long as you need Is knowledgeable about every aspect of the breed
including that of health issues/defects
Is knowledgeable about house breaking, training and socializing puppies
Can and will help and educate puppy buyers regarding these issues
Encourages buyers to train pups and gives advice (if local) on good trainers. If
not local will give advice on what to look for in a puppy or dog trainer
Makes sure buyers understand pup's considerable need for time, attention,
exercise and training
Can give you their own ‗puppy pack‘ of advice
Recommend books, pamphlets and other resources for those new to the breed
Requires an ownership contract
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Ensures that puppies are sold with contracts of ownership setting out rights and
obligations on both sides
Requires or recommends that the pup/dog returns to them if the home falls
through for any reason
Requires an opportunity to approve alternative placement if the buyer cannot or
will not keep the dog
Requires you to have your new puppy checked for health by your vet within 2448 hours. This protects them from getting a call 2 weeks later if your puppy
picks up a virus when you walked it in the park. But they also want you to
know they sold you a healthy puppy.
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Follows up progress after sale
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Follows up on puppies' well-being with owners during their development
Maintains ongoing contact with owners
Collects information on an ongoing basis about the health, temperament and
any showing results of the puppies
Will visit owners – either planned or unplanned (especially if local)
Things the breeder will want to know about you
A responsible breeder will make sure that the puppy goes to a home that will give it a
secure, lifelong commitment. They will make sure the dog is going to be happy and healthy
and well trained.
That means the breeder is going to need some information from you to supplement what is
in the homing questionnaire. This is your opportunity to shine and show them you have
done your homework properly (using this book).
Be prepared to provide the answers and please don't feel insulted. It may not feel like it but
they aren't asking questions to make you feel bad. They are just doing the best for their
puppies.
Also don't feel that if you ever made a mistake or had a bad experience with a dog in the
past that no breeder will ever consider you "worthy" of a puppy. Most, however, will want to
know what has changed.
Things the breeder might want to know:
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Your past experience with dogs. The breed (or breeds) will be important, as will
the age you got the dog, how long you had it, and whether you just lived with it or
were the person that mostly looked after it.
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Any dog training experience. If you had a dog, the breeder will want to know about
what training you did. If you taught the dog anything more than basic good manner
that is a big plus.
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Who else will be sharing the household or will be regular visitors. If you are
expecting to have a child within two years of getting the dog expect to be questioned
especially closely as that is an extra challenge for the average, less experienced
person.
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What other pets either share the household or will be regular visitors. If there are
other pets the breeder should ask further questions about your experience on
supervising and managing so that there can be a safe and peaceful coexistence.
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Is there a limit? If there is a maximum number of pets the community, your housing
development/estate, your landlord or local authorities will allow.
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Do you own or rent? One of the most important questions is whether you own or
rent. If you rent you should expect the breeder to ask for proof that the landlord
permits dogs. Dogs regularly end up euthanized when renters are ‗found out‘ and
forced to choose between the dog and eviction.
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What space you have. If the space is relatively confined the breeder will want to
know whether you have taken that into consideration. Different breeds have different
indoor activity levels.
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Whether you have a fenced yard. Some breeders will never place a dog in a home
without a fenced yard. You should be prepared to answer to the real concern, which
is how will you ensure the dog is safe and controlled both in getting exercise and in
going out for bodily relief.
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Exercise. Specific information about your plans for daily exercise and training - how
long and how much of each.
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Socialisation and training. Specific and well thought out plans for teaching the dog
how to be well mannered, including commitment to socialisation and training classes.
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Realism. That you are aware and realistic about both the time and financial
commitment you are making. Before you contact a breeder you should have a good
idea of costs for annual veterinary visits, licensing, grooming, training, food, supplies
and allowance for emergency vet care. Try to save the breeder the awkwardness of
asking by volunteering your awareness and ability to meet those needs.
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Why you want a dog, and why you want this particular breed. One of the big
reasons dogs don't keep their original homes is that people aren't always realistic in
their expectations. Permanent placement requires realistic expectations by the buyer.
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Who wants the dog. Whether, if there are children, the desire and motivation to
have a dog starts with the parties responsible for the dog - the parents. If keeping the
dog is dependent upon the interest and involvement of the children a responsible
breeder will not place the dog in that family.
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Age and future plans. If you are young the breeder may again pose awkward but
necessary questions about your plans for the future. Things like moving house,
moving career etc all have an impact. Showing the breeder that you have not only
thought ahead but you are realistic about your ability to continue to provide for the
needs of the dog is important.
A quick recap
You probably won't find a breeder that does all of the above. But it gives you a guide on
what being a responsible breeder involves. As you can see, being a responsible breeder
really is a big task. It‘s expensive and not always easy.
Breeding is a journey of passion and purpose. It‘s about an overwhelming love for a
particular type of dog, and a desire to spread the message about how great that dog is to the
right people. If you don‘t feel that the breeder has that connection with their dogs, then ask
yourself if you would really want a puppy from them.
The responsible breeder checklist is also to help you understand why a breeder might have
requirements or provisions which seem very strict. And to help you ask the right questions
of them.
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Don't be afraid to ask questions. The better the breeder the happier they will be that you
care enough to really find out. By listening and questioning each other you will be able to
build a relationship of trust which will last a very long time.
To help you, the main questions have been put into a simple checklist. You can use this if
you wish to help you remember what was said and what you thought of the breeder and their
home. Take a pen and paper with you and make notes.
Here is a quick checklist to remind you of all these things.
Responsible Breeder – Simple Checklist
Does not raise more than 2 breeds
Vets owners carefully
Proves their dogs‘ quality
Breeds ‗pure‘
Breeds for health
Final questions – ask yourself
Do I like this breeder?
Do I like their dogs?
Choosing from more than one breeder
You might have more than one breeder to choose from. If this is the case just having notes
might make it a little more tricky to assess one against the other.
What follows is a very simple framework. If you had say 4 breeders of a particular dog that
you want to visit, you can use this to note how well you felt each of them did against the
checklist.
There‘s also a worked example to show you how someone might have completed it. You do
not have to use this, but you are welcome to if it will help.
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Table 5 – Breeder Review
Breeder Checklist
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
Does not raise more than 2
breeds
Supports rescue
organisations
Breeds ‗pure‘
Breeds for health
Explains their breeding
goals
Cares deeply for their adult
dogs
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Breeder Name
Table 5 – Breeder Review
Breeder Checklist
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
Cares deeply for their
puppies
Matches the puppy to the
owner
Gives initial and ongoing
advice
Requires an ownership
contract
Follows up progress after
sale
Which is preferred?
Page | 129
Breeder Name
Table 5 - Breeder Review : Worked (Fictional) Example
Checklist
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
Breeder Name
MRS D
MR B
MISS R
MRS N
Yes – really well
Yes
Yes – excellent
Yes - excellent
Does not raise more than 2
breeds
Has 3 breeds
2 breeds
Just this breed
Just this breed
No
Member of 3 clubs
Member of 3 clubs
Member of 2 clubs
Yes – takes rescues
Not directly
Yes – financially
Many show titles
A few show titles
Working and agility titles
Yes – financially and
takes rescues
Working and agility titles
Breeds ‗pure‘
Excellent
Good
Very good
Very good
Breeds for health
Excellent
Good
Very good
Very good
Excellent
Very good
Very good
Excellent
Very good – all indoors
Some outdoors in kennels
Some outdoors in kennels
All indoors
As above
As above
All indoors
As above
Lots of questions
Not many questions
Lots of questions
Moderate questions
Yes – will advise
Yes definitely
Yes definitely
No – lets us do the
choosing
Offered lots
Offered a few
Offered a few
Very big list
Puppy pack + ongoing
Ongoing
Ongoing
Puppy pack + ongoing
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Every 6 months
No
Every 12 months
Frequent by e-mail
Yes
Moderately
Yes
Yes very much
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes
Which is preferred?
nd
2
1st choice
choice
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Bringing this all together
So now you‘ve met a breeder or two, you have to decide which one to go with. Look at the
notes you made and work out which, on balance, has what you want. This is likely to be a
combination of all the different factors. Breeders will be strong in different areas.
But really it‘s very simple.
If all other aspects are balanced, ask yourself which of the breeders you would happily stay
in contact with for the next 15 years. If you found yourself chatting away to one like old
friends right from the start and they had everything else you needed, that‘s ‗your‘ breeder.
Be prepared to wait
If you have decided that you definitely prefer a puppy, be prepared to wait for the right one to
come along. Good and responsible breeders do not have a ready supply of puppies on tap.
They will breed for quality and only every few years.
So when you find a breeder you like, you might have to put your name on a waiting list. If
you have decided that you would like a specific sex of puppy, you need to bear in mind that
there is no guarantee on what will be born. Even a litter of ten puppies can be all male or all
female.
Also, if you have found a good breeder, be prepared to put your faith in them to identify a
puppy they think will work for you. All puppies are different. You might be after a specific
characteristic – like one which is more outgoing with children – so the breeder will wait until
they think they have something which meets your needs.
Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Get prepared for meeting the dogs by learning the rules of engagement
Responsible breeders welcome questions so use the checklist to best effect
Be prepared to be quizzed in return!
Be prepared to wait for the right puppy or dog
If you‘re choosing from equally matched breeders, go for the one you like best
Summary
In this chapter you‘ll learn what to look for when you meet a breeder. Specifically we‘ll
cover:
 Getting prepared for meeting the breeder‘s dogs
 How to identify a responsible breeder
 What the breeder might want to know about you
 How and which to choose
The next chapter covers the allergy tests you should do for each of your shortlisted breeds.
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Chapter 8 – Allergies and allergy testing
In this chapter
In this chapter we will:




Answer the question ‗what is low allergy‘
Look at the causes of dog allergies in detail
Review why you‘re getting a low allergy dog – for you, someone in your family or
another reason
Show you ways of testing your allergic reaction to the breeds on your ‗possible‘
shortlist
What is low allergy?
All the dogs profiled in this chapter are claimed to be
low allergy. Whether they suit you personally
depends on your allergy level. Sadly some people
are so allergic they will never be able to have a dog.
But for most people there actually are low allergy
breeds they can live with easily.
Low allergy simply means the dog is less likely to
trigger your allergy than another breed. However,
there are a lot of ways used to describe ‗low allergy‘
so let‘s go through some of the most common.
Poodle doing agility
Hypoallergenic or non-allergic
When people search or ask for a hypoallergenic or non-allergic dog, it‘s because they
think it won‘t cause any allergic reaction in anyone. This is not true. All of the breeds
listed could affect someone who is dog-allergic to some degree. However, some
breeds are much less likely to trigger a reaction.
The term hypo-allergenic is often used for household, hair care and skin care
products. It does not mean ‗no allergy‘. It actually means ‗is less likely to cause an
allergy than similar products‘. So a hypoallergenic dog is less likely to cause an
allergy than other similar dogs.
In chapter 4, you learned that coat type is the main cause of allergic reaction. So
hairless or crested dogs (mostly hairless expect for plumes on the face, feet and tail)
tend to produce the very least reaction. These are closest to the description of nonallergic.
People also search or ask for dogs which are allergy-free, non-allergen and similar.
Unless there has been some major scientific breakthrough we‘re not aware of yet, no
dog is going to be totally allergy free.
Low allergen
An allergen is the particle or thing the dog produces which triggers your allergy.
Allergens include dead skin cells, hair, saliva, sweat and urine.
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So low allergen means the dog does not produce many of the particles or substances
which trigger the allergy. When you think of what a dog produces from its body which
hang around the house, they are mainly dead skin and dog hair. So you will also see
these terms below used to describe low allergy dogs:
Low dander
Skin flakes on dogs are called ‗dander‘. Low dander means that the dog does not
produce many dead skin flakes.
All dogs shed skin flakes. Humans do too. It is the natural process where old skin
cells die and new ones are created. Think of it like human dandruff. As a dog is
covered in skin, it will always produce dander. However some hairless and small
breeds will produce less, therefore making them low allergy.
Non-shedding/non-moulting
People often search for non-shedding dogs on the internet. Actually there is no such
thing. All dogs shed some hair. Many dogs shed their entire coats twice a year with
the seasons – they get a summer coat and then a winter one.
The ones which are lower allergy have coats which don‘t shed out twice a year. There
are some breeds, including curly coated ones, where the hair grows like human hair. It
only falls out occasionally when the hair dies. In between times, they need to be
clipped to keep the coat short, just like we get a haircut.
Low allergy
This is really a catch-all term for all the other descriptions above and many others.
Here are all the main terms that people use to describe low allergy dogs:
Hypoallergenic
non-allergic
low allergy
allergy free
Allergy friendly
non-shedding
low shedding
non-moulting
Low dander
low allergen
What are the causes of dog allergies?
Basically anything the dog sheds from its body or produces can cause a reaction.
An allergic reaction is usually triggered by 5 main things. These are dog hair, dog dander
(skin), dog saliva, dog sweat and urine/faeces. Dog saliva is often overlooked but actually
can be more problematic than anything else. In some people even the small droplets of
saliva in a dog‘s breath can trigger an allergy. Dogs sweat from their feet. Even this minor
amount of sweat can cause a reaction.
There is no dog breed that is truly non-allergy because all dogs produce dander (shed skin
cells), saliva, sweat and urine.
People with pet allergies have very sensitive immune systems. These immune systems
react to proteins in the pet's hair, dander, sweat, saliva or urine (the allergens). These
allergens can cause a range of symptoms including:
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nasal congestion and sneezing, tickly or sore throats
itchy and watery eyes,
puffy skin and swelling
skin rashes, skin itching
headaches and fatigue,
coughing, shortness of breath, wheezing
serious asthma attacks
anaphylactic shock (collapse and blackout)
If someone is allergic, the symptoms tend to happen quite soon after exposure to a dog e.g.
15 minutes to half an hour. However it can occur later as a delayed reaction.
Remember that it is possible to be allergic to all dogs, or only to certain breeds, or certain
coat types. Remember James from the UK and his son, who was allergic to Staffordshire
Bull Terriers? Here‘s a reminder:
We bought a Staffie (Staffordshire Bull Terrier) pup. But soon afterwards my son
started to get very itchy. The only thing we had changed was the dog so my parents
agreed to look after it for a while. We cleaned the house from top to bottom, put
fresh sheets on the beds and then went on holiday for a week. On holiday – no
problems. Came back – no problems. Pup came back – itching started. So we had
to rehome it.
Friends of ours had a Cavalier King Charles. We borrowed that for a week. It was
all over the house, slept on and even in his bed under the duvet. No problems at all.
We think it was the short staffie coat – like when you go to the hairdressers and
come back with those bits of hair down the back of your neck and in your clothes.
My son‟s fine with any dog with a soft silky coat. So we got a Springer Spaniel.
She‟s great.
James, Buckinghamshire, UK
So it is very important not to assume you will have the same reaction to all the dogs on the
suggested low allergy list.
Who is allergic?
This is a very important question, because it determines who is involved in the testing
process.
It’s you
In this case, you can go ahead with the testing, because it‘s your health that‘s under
the spotlight. You will have an idea of how allergic you are, and therefore how safe it
is to test your allergy to different dog breeds.
It’s a direct member of the household that lives with you
If it‘s a child or children that are allergic, you should really consider whether it is worth
putting them through possibly severe allergic reactions. Especially if it‘s them that
wants the dog in the first place. We have already covered how fickle children can be
and how quickly they can lose interest. However if you‘re convinced your children will
be great with the dog, then go ahead.
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(On a separate note, it‘s known that children with conditions such as autism can
respond well to dogs and learn how to interact better with people too as a result).
It’s a relative who you see often
If the relative comes to your house, but you don‘t go and see them, then it might be
possible to zone an area as ‗dog-free‘. Some people have more than one downstairs
room where they can entertain guests. As well as getting a low allergy dog, you can
reduce the problem even further by simply excluding your dog from a specific room
and making sure it is kept very clean.
If it is someone that you go and see in their home, then you could simply leave the dog
at your home for the afternoon or evening. If it is someone you spend weekends or
longer times with, they should be the person that does the tests.
It’s just a friend/someone who visits regularly
The best way to deal with this is simply to zone a dog-free area of the house, and keep
your house scrupulously clean.
Testing your allergies
Once you‘ve shortlisted some breeds, you want to know how to test your allergy. There‘s
more you can do than just making a trip to a breeder. Allergy testing falls into 2 types :


Real time testing – this happens directly at the breeder‘s home.
Remote testing – this happens via the post using t-shirts, pillowcases,
cloth/handkerchiefs impregnated with dog ‗stuff‘!
Real time testing
You are strongly encouraged to go and see a breeder. That holds true even if they are
some distance away from you. This is really the best and most reliable way of testing. If you
are thinking of getting a dog for the next 10-15 years, investing in some travel costs is not
much to ask. It also shows the breeder real commitment on your part.
So you‘re off to the breeder for some hands on testing. Great! Here are some tips to make
your reaction as representative as possible:
More than one breed?
It‘s very important that if the breeder has 2 breeds, BOTH breeds should be low
allergy. Otherwise you could get an allergic reaction, but you would not know if it was
from the low allergy breed.
If the breeder has a non-low allergy breed too, see if one or two of the low allergy dogs
can be bathed thoroughly and kept separate from the others before you arrive. That
way the allergens from the other dogs will mostly be washed off.
Things to do with the dogs
To test your allergic reaction to the hair (if appropriate) dander and saliva:
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


Stroke, handle and kiss the dogs
Rub your nose into their fur, and any exposed skin
Breathe their breath
Breathe the air in the room where they live
Let the dogs lick your bare skin, especially on your neck and inside your arms
where the skin is more sensitive
Stay a long time
Stay as long as you can manage with the breeder. Some will happily let you stay
overnight or even for a few days at their home. Or they will be happy for you to stay in
a local hotel and spend all day with them, just being around the dogs.
Long term exposure is always going to be a better test than a short visit. It will also
allow you to really see the dogs in all their moods and situations.
Ask for references
Ask the breeder if they can give you references for other people with allergies that they
have homed to. That way you can talk to them directly about what the dogs are like to
live with.
Leave time between visits
If you‘re testing out several different breeds, you should visit only one breeder at a
time. You want to have the time to really see the dogs and evaluate your reaction.
Leave several days or preferably a whole week between different breeders.
You might also be able to borrow a dog of the breed you are considering for a few days from
someone you know. Or you might dog sit while they are on holiday. This will also get you
used to what it‘s like to have a dog, walk it, feed it and so on.
Cross-breed testing
Some of the currently fashionable cross-breeds have become well established and might
emerge as breeds in their own right, given time.
Cross breeding of two low allergy dog breeds should be because the breeder is trying to
capture and preserve the best of both dogs in their puppies. So for example a breeder might
breed a strong willed breed with a gentler breed, producing a cross which is more fun to
train.
** An important reminder **
Do not take a puppy which is a cross between a low allergy dog breed and a ‘not
low allergy’ breed.
In the breeding, genes come through at random. You could get all the allergy-producing
characteristics of the ‗not low allergy‘ parent. You are recommended to avoid any a
puppy where a ‗not low allergy‘ parent is in the breedlines. If you do take such a puppy
you need to make sure that your allergy testing is incredibly thorough.
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You need to do your testing very carefully even if you are thinking of a puppy which has
been cross-bred between two low allergy parents. To recap, some of the ‗known‘ ones are:




Schnoodle – Schnauzer and Poodle (both low allergy)
Shorkie – Shih Tzu and Yorkshire terrier (both low allergy)
Maltepoo – Maltese and Poodle (both low allergy)
Whoodle – Wheaten Terrier and Poodle (both low allergy)
You can be allergic, or more allergic, to one breed than another. Just because you have two
dogs on a low allergy list does not mean they will all give you no reaction, a small reaction or
the same reaction. Also remember that any puppies the breeder has may not be sufficiently
well developed to generate an allergic reaction.
So if you are at a place which breeds ‗Whoodles‘, you will need to find out some important
information:
Is the ‘Whoodle’ a first cross?
A ‗first cross‘ means that one of the parents is a pure bred Wheaten Terrier and the
other is a pure bred Poodle.
Ideally you should meet both the mother and the father of the litter. If this is not
possible, meet the mother, and make special arrangements with another breeder to
test your reaction to the other breed involved. So if the mother is a Wheaten Terrier,
you will need to go and check out a Poodle separately.
Only then will you know if you can tolerate a cross between the two breeds.
Is the Whoodle a second generation cross or more?
A second (generation) cross or later means that the puppies have been produced by
two Whoodles mating together.
This means the allergy producing characteristics of both breeds should be found in the
mother of the litter. By meeting the mother of the litter, you will get a good gauge of
your reaction.
But you should still ask where the father is and make special arrangements to see the
father too if possible.
Remote allergy testing
This can work if you are interested in a breed but it is rare and there are very few breeders in
your country, or even that all the breeders are in other countries. You can do a remote
allergy trial with a t-shirt or pillow case. It‘s not as good or reliable as in the flesh because
the allergens (hair etc) have time to decay. However it‘s a good start.
If you do react, then that breed is not for you. If you don‘t, you should investigate this breed
further by doing a real time test.
Remote testing involves sending a T shirt, pillowcase and/or handkerchief to the breeder or
breeders you‘ve selected as being the ones for you. You need to ensure you get their
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permission beforehand and don‘t just spring it on them. However good breeders will be
happy to help you.
You send the thing you want the dog to lie on (or similar). The breeder will impregnate the
material with dogginess and return it. You should offer to pay for all the postage.
The methods of testing are:
One shirt/pillowcase method
After approval from the breeder, send a t-shirt or pillowcase to the breeder. They will
put this into the dog‘s bed/allow them to lie on it. They should then send it back to you
in a ziplock (sealed) plastic bag in an envelope.
When the shirt comes back, wear the side which was in contact with the dog next to
your skin. Make sure the breeder tells you which this is - the inside or the outside of
the T shirt.
Two shirt/pillowcase method
Send two different colour or design T-shirts to the breeder. The breeder will use only
one of the shirts with the dogs. Keeping the T shirts entirely separate, they will put
them in separate plastic ziplock bags and mail them back to you.
You won‘t know which shirt is doggy. Wear these shirts on separate days to see if you
will have any allergic reaction. After wearing both shirts, you can ask the breeder
which shirt had dander on it and confirm your test results.
Two pillow case method
You can also test dander and saliva using these methods.
Send the breeder two pillowcases. One will be used as a dogs' sleeping blanket for a
while. The breeder can smear dogs' saliva on the second pillow case.
Again these should be kept entirely separate to avoid cross contamination.
Sleep or lie on both and see what happens.
Dog sweat test
Dogs sweat from their feet. If you send a small handkerchief or piece of cloth to the
breeder they can wrap this around one of the dog‘s feet and then wrap the foot in a
plastic bag or dog boot overnight. You can test this by wearing it against your skin or
lying on it.
Urine
Dog urine can be source of allergy. This is usually not a problem since dogs are
trained to toilet outside and you don‘t come into contact with it that often. However, if
you are getting a puppy you will need to be very careful when you clean up accidents.
Always use gloves, never touch your face and wash your hands thoroughly after
cleaning. You might also think about it before you go barefoot into the garden again!
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Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
All dogs can produce an allergic reaction
All dogs shed their coats (unless they are completely hairless)
Allergies are caused by hair, dander, saliva, sweat and urine/faeces
You can be allergic to one low allergy dog breed but not to another
Be more careful with cross breeds
Real time testing is the most reliable
Get as much exposure to the dogs as you can
Summary
In this chapter we have :




Answered the question ‗what is low allergy‘
Looked at the causes of dog allergies in detail
Reviewed why you‘re getting a low allergy dog – for you, someone in your family or
another reason
Shown you ways of testing your allergic reaction to the breeds on your ‗possible‘
shortlist
Hopefully now you have found your breeder and tested your allergy level, and found your
perfect fit. We will now move onto a chapter looking at choosing your dog or puppy.
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Chapter 9 – Choosing your dog
In this chapter
This is the exciting bit where you actually make your choice. You might think it‘s taken a
while to get here but all the steps are really important. You want to be sure you‘ve covered
everything so your choice is a brilliant one, don‘t you?
If you have taken all the steps up to now properly, you should be really confident that you
have found ‗your‘ breed. And you‘ve found the right breeder, and there is now a litter of
puppies or an adult dog to assess.
It is finally time to bring home your dog.
In this chapter you will learn about:




Adopting an adult pure breed from the breeder or rescue
A quick recap – puppy or adult?
By now you should have decided whether it would be better to have an adult dog or a puppy.
Some breeders have adult dogs available because they have not worked out as show
quality, or have finished their puppy-producing career. Some breeders are directly involved
with rescue too and have adults available for placement.
Assuming you have decided to choose a puppy, there are some important things to look for.
We will cover these first.
What to have in place before you go – the basics
This is really a whole mini-book in itself. The bonus report on home and dog care tips goes
into this in much more detail. However here are some basics that you need to have in place
before you go to choose your dog in the flesh:
Collar and lead –Get washable collars and leads. Chew resistant ones would be
good too. Also get a collar that expands as the puppy grows, because it will grow
quickly! If looking at an adult, find out what size collar that dog generally needs and
again get one that expands just in case. .
Bowls – one for water and one for food. If you are getting a taller dog, get a bowl and
stand set for when it‘s grown up so it doesn‘t strain its shoulders or twist its gut when
eating off the floor.
Coat – if you‘re getting a hairless or crested breed, or an adult greyhound, find a coat.
Don‘t spend too much because puppies will grow out of several before maturity. Ask
the breeder for recommendations.
Dog bed – get a wipe clean plastic dog basket and washable bedding, or a completely
washable dog bed. There are waterproof ones now which don‘t get hairs in them. You
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might want to invest in a large crate to grow with the dog (e.g. adult greyhound sized),
ideal for toilet training and to give the dog its own designated safe space.
Dog or puppy food – a wheat-free dry complete puppy or adult food, preferably which
has meat as the first listed ingredient. Ask what the breeder feeds. No need to buy a
huge bag – 2.5gks or 5kgs is enough to start with.
Sofa covers – just some basic large polycotton sheets are enough to protect the
furniture initially while you are all settling in.
A secure garden or yard – go round the garden and make sure all holes or gaps are
filled/covered, and increase the height of the fence if required. Some dogs can clear a
4 foot fence easily.
Poo bags – preferably biodegradable ones that break down in the earth.
Look at the whole litter of puppies. Normal
puppies are friendly, curious, and trusting.
They will mill around your feet, tug at your
shoelaces, crawl into your lap, and nibble on
your fingers. They will be interested in noises
that you make. Click your fingers, talk to
them, jingle keys etc. Do they check out
what‘s going on?
After a while, the puppies might lose interest in
you and start playing with each other. Look for
a well socialised litter which are playing and tumbling over each other, making playful growly
or squeaky noises.
They should not be fighting or biting in a serious way. A litter which does this could have
serious dominance and aggression problems later in life. These puppies might be very
difficult to train and cause problems with other dogs, people or household pets.
If the whole litter shies away from you, runs off, woofs at you suspiciously, this is not a litter
to pick from. Don‘t let a breeder persuade you otherwise. Lack of socialization usually
means laziness, ignorance or neglect on the part of the breeder. Even puppies from
guarding breeds can be socialised well. A good breeder will expose the puppies to as much
human contact as possible as soon as possible, and be happy to tell you what they‘ve done.
You can tell a lot about the individual puppies by the way they interact with their littermates.
Look at the whole litter and find out:




Which ones are strong, outgoing, bossy, noisy?
Which ones are quiet, submissive, gentle?
Which ones grab all the toys and win the tugs-of-war?
Which ones seem delicate or picked on?
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Most first time dog owners and families do best with a pup that is not the boss or the lowest
ranking. Look for good-natured, middle-of-the-road pups. Look for an alert and confident
puppy.
What to look for – the individual puppy
Next, ask the breeder if you can see each puppy which is available for sale individually. Ask
them to remove the other pups. This is because puppies behave differently when on their
own to when they are in a group.
You will need to look at two aspects of the puppy – their general body language and
temperament, and an inspection for physical signs of health or illness.
Puppy body language
It is important to see how a puppy reacts to you when it is on its own. Sometimes a
bold puppy will become uncertain or anxious on his own. Or a bouncy puppy will calm
down. Look at each puppy and consider:




What is his general expression?
Does he keep his tail up or mostly down? An up tail is confident and outgoing.
Is his tail wagging, even hesitantly?
When you talk to him, does he look at your face? This shows confidence and
interest.
Does he cock his head and listen to you?
Does he play with you?
Is he confident and alert without being bossy?
Is he happy to be touched and handled?
Is he happy to be picked up and cradled? If he squeals and wriggles and this does
not stop, it is not a good sign. A puppy that does this might have either fear or
dominance issues.
Does he come running to you, but equally after a while will go off and do something
else nearby? This indicates a puppy which is very ‗centred‘ and might be less likely
to suffer separation anxiety.






Puppy health
It‘s also important to look at the puppy physically to see if there are any signs of illhealth. These are things to look for. Your puppy should:

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
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




Be round and shiny. Even greyhounds and whippets are little round blobs up to
about 12 weeks.
Not be skinny or showing any protruding bones.
Feel solid and heavy with sturdy legs
Have bright eyes.
Have clear eyes and nose (no discharge).
Have a nose which appears healthy – it might be cold and wet or warm and wet,
but should not appear dried out or crusty.
Have ears which should look, and smell, clean on the inside and outside.
Have breath which smells of just breath, and nothing other than ‗puppy‘.
Breathe normally with no coughing or wheezing
Have gums which are nicely salmon pink, not pale or dark.
Have a clean bottom with no sign of diarrhoea or discharge.
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
Have clean skin - no sores, dandruff, or parasites.
Have a shiny coat with no patches missing, baldness or thinness. Check
especially for baldness around the eyes as this could indicate demodectic
mange.
Be free of lumps and bumps in his stomach and abdomen – these would indicate
hernias.
If male, have two testicles. Testicles can sometimes take a while to drop, so no
need for immediate panic if you cannot feel them. However if they are not there
check with the breeder
Run and play freely with no sign of lameness.
It can take time for some breeds to grow into their ears, feet, and skin. Don‘t worry if
the puppies appear slightly uncoordinated or a little out of proportion in some areas.
Do not be alarmed if the pups have ‗knobbly knees‘ as this is quite normal. Puppy
joints have a lot of growing to do before they reach adulthood.
Hearing test
When you have identified one or two puppies that
you like the look of, you should check if they can
hear you properly. With the puppy facing the
other way or possibly playing with another
member of your family, make a loud noise. You
could drop a set of keys on the ground or stamp
your feet.
The puppy should react immediately. They may
even be a little startled by the noise, then curious
and ideally will investigate what the fuss is all
about.
Yorkshire Terrier
You should do this with each puppy you‘re
interested in. It's very difficult to pick a deaf puppy out of a litter, if the pups are all together in
the same pen.
Vision test
It‘s important to also check if the puppies can see you well. Sometimes puppies which
appear perfectly normal at the breeder‘s can be found to have eye and vision problems in an
unfamiliar environment. And this is not necessarily because the breeder was at fault.
Simply hold the puppy directly in front of you and move a finger in front of its eyes. Then
move the finger in front of it at different heights – above its head, its chest height, and
holding it in the air, even below its body. Watch to see if the puppy tracks your finger it as its
moving.
Breeder advice
Responsible breeders want to make sure you get a dog that‘s a perfect fit. So be guided
and helped by them. Remember they‘ve probably done this for many years and have a
really good success rate. They might be able to pick a puppy for you, especially if you have
a choice of several and aren‘t sure.
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Adopting an adult dog
You might have decided that an adult dog is more suited to your household. That‘s fine.
There is no need or requirement to take a puppy if you do not have the time to invest in it.
Most adult dogs adapt perfectly well to different households and different values/training
regimes later in life. Many people adopt successfully from rescue centres time and time
again, and never buy a dog from a breeder.
There are two routes to adopting an adult low allergy dog – from a breeder, or as a ‗rescue‘.
From a breeder
There are good reasons why a breeder might have their own adult dogs available for
rehoming. These include:

The dog was returned to them (under a homing contract). This often happens
because the home was no longer able to care for the dog as they would like – e.g.
illness, a marriage break-up, change of working patterns, moving into rented
accommodation where dogs were not allowed, or even moving overseas.

The dog was returned because of problems. Don‘t panic if this is the case. Many
excellent dogs are failed by their owners in some way – e.g. because they weren‘t
getting the training or exercise they required, or the owners were untruthful about
their circumstances. If you‘re the right home, then you might never see those
problems re-appear. Sadly, some owners also just make excuses because they
hadn‘t put the right effort in to begin with – unlike you!

The dog was kept by the breeder for showing, working, competition, or for breeding,
but did not develop into the quality needed.

The dog has ended its breeding career. This means that the dog or bitch has
produced one or two successful litters, and the breeder now needs to diversify into
different bloodlines. Breeders will use many different bloodlines to keep pedigrees
‗open‘, reduce inbreeding and keep their dogs healthy.
From rescue
Reasons for a dog being in rescue
There are many reasons why adult dogs end up in ‗rescue‘ situations. Sometimes it is the
same reasons that bring dogs back to the breeder. For example:

Marriage breakup, lifestyle changes, illness

Problems with the kids (remember that dogs need to be respected and often the kids
aren‘t properly trained either)

The people didn‘t take the time to properly think through the commitment needed

The original breeder didn‘t want them returned – especially if there was no homing
contract.
Page | 144

The dog has developed behaviour issues which the owners can‘t cope with or won‘t
address.
Whatever the reason, many adult dogs work perfectly well in new homes later in life. It all
depends on whether you‘re a great match. If you are – no problem.
However, you are taking a low allergy dog. This means things are not as simple as finding a
breed which fits your lifestyle and going to the nearest rescue centre. Why is this? Because
you need to be able to test your allergy properly.
All breed rescue
These are things to consider with an all-breed rescue:
Will / can they help you test your allergies? First of all, you need to be able to test
your allergy to that breed. As we already know, you can have very different reactions
to different types of ‗low allergy‘ dogs. Most rescue centres will not have the facilities
or the time to help you with your allergy testing (Chapter7).
Allergy testing results can be compromised - With an ‗all-breed‘ rescue, your ‗low
allergy‘ dog will be housed in a kennel that has had lots of other ‗normal‘ dog breeds in
there before it. It is also surrounded by them all day. So your allergy testing could be
compromised. You might get an allergic reaction, but you would not know if it was
from that dog, or from the allergens produced by all the other dogs in the centre.
It might be possible to adopt an adult or puppies of the low allergy breed you want
from an all-breed rescue. Talk to them and explain your special circumstances. See if
they can help you.
Pure breed rescue
The best way of adopting a low allergy breed through ‗rescue‘ is to find specific breed rescue
organisations. Most pure breeds have a breed rescue group, with breeders who take in,
foster and rehome rescued dogs of the breed you are interested in.
There are several advantages to this:
1. Your breeder/rehomer should only specialise on one or two low allergy breeds, so
your allergy testing can be done with confidence
2. You will see how the dog behaves in a home environment. The breeder will be able
to assess it and tell you what it is like to live with
3. The breeder/rehomer will have been able to work with, train and socialise the dog
before it is rehomed.
Page | 145
Greyhound rescue
It‘s important to say a few words about greyhounds.
The racing industry produces countless thousands of
these dogs worldwide every year. Because they are
bred for racing, more greyhounds are in rescue or
available for rehoming than any other breed.
All countries where there is greyhound racing have
greyhound-specific rescue centres. Mostly they are
just that - solely for greyhounds. So you will
normally get a good test of your reactions. The
rehomers are normally very experienced in the
breed, so they will be able to help you with your
questions.
Racing produces many dogs at different stages of
their racing career. Some just aren‘t fast enough as
puppies and are homed at 14-18 months. Others just show no enthusiasm for the track –
retired at just 2-3 years. Often these ‗non-racers‘ can adapt to homes with cats quite easily.
Copyright FORG, Colorado
More successful racers tend to be retired at 3-5 years. They can also be found as older
dogs 6+ due to change in home circumstances after being adopted. Most greyhounds do
well with all kinds and sizes of dogs, despite only being brought up with other greyhounds. A
little training and socialisation often works miracles.
Many people who have mild dog allergies can tolerate a greyhound, even though this breed
does shed hair. This is because of their short single coat and the absence of a chemical
which produces the normal ‗dog‘ smell.
“ Hi Bev. I am looking forward to seeing your project progress, and participating. I
hope you have included a greyhound with the low allergy breeds!
My friend Lauren has 2 females raised from pups, and 2 retired racers. Both the
female show line dogs are quite dominant. Yet her two racers (one male, one
female) are very sweet.
I do a lot of work for a greyhound adoption organization, and many people adopt
them because their children want a dog but a family member has allergies. Several
times a month, local FORG volunteers host "Meet and Greet" sessions at pet supply
stores. This is a two-hour gathering during which the public gets an opportunity to
see and touch a greyhound up close, and ask any questions about racing, care,
ownership and the adoption process. Generally we have from six to perhaps sixteen
dogs present at a Meet and Greet.
Many times, a family has come up and the kids have stood back as if afraid, or been
told by the parents to "just look, don't touch." I tend to take this opportunity to tell
them that the dogs are very gentle, and won't hurt the children. Often, the parent will
explain that the child has an allergy to dogs - and then will ask the inevitable
question, "Are these dogs good for allergies?" I generally suggest that they allow the
child to pet the dogs, and then go away and shop for half an hour and see
what happens. I have yet - over a three year period - to have a family who didn't
come back after a time and say the child did not have an allergic reaction. Many a
thrilled parent has then gone on to further explore adoption of a greyhound.
Page | 146
We routinely suggest that families with an animal allergy issue find out where there is
a Meet and Greet scheduled in their area and test exposure with the dogs
themselves.
Susan A Allen, CVT (Certified Veterinary Technician)
Foster Care Director, Friends of Retired Greyhounds (FORG), Colorado
http://www.friendsofretiredgreyhounds.org/
Questions to ask/what to look for in an adult dog
All the same things you would ask and look for if you were choosing a puppy.



Talk to the breeder/rehomer about your lifestyle and how well the dog will fit into it
Check its body language, personality and hearing
Check its overall state of health and physical wellbeing – does it look and feel healthy
and have a nice sound body?
The breeder/rehomer will ask you all the same kinds of questions as they would if you were
taking a puppy, so refer back to the chapter on meeting a breeder and be prepared with
some answers.
Disadvantages to an adult ‘rescue’
There are a few disadvantages:

You may not fully know the dog‘s background. If the dog has been affected by its
previous life, some issues may not have had time to appear. This is true if the dog
has been badly treated in the past and at first appears a little shy. However, close
questioning of the breeder/rehomer should be enough to make an informed decision.

The dog may come without vaccination records or pedigree papers. This is not that
important if you are just looking for a pet. Just ask yourself ‗does this dog fit my
household?‘. Ask the breeder/rehomer for their thoughts on the dog‘s health and
physical attributes (i.e. ‗is it breed standard‘?).

You need to be prepared to treat the dog initially as if it was a puppy. Some adults
require almost no socialisation, training, housetraining or other assistance. That‘s
already been done and done well for many dogs. This is a real bonus. Others that
have had a bad start in life might need everything a puppy would need. Just be sure
what kind of time you have to commit to training, socialisation and so on, and make
sure the person you are dealing with knows what you need.
And you have your dog!
Excellent! Job done!
If you have followed through all the steps properly, you should have a dog or puppy which
fills you with joy. And you should also have a breeder or a rehomer/rehoming centre with
whom you can have a lasting relationship.
Many people repeatedly visit their breeder or rescue organisation to proudly show off how
well the dog has blossomed under their care, and catch up with news. Breeders and
Page | 147
rehomers are always pleased to have feedback, because it helps them see how a litter or a
dog has developed. So do send news and pictures by e-mail too.
Then all you have to do it pay the breeder for the puppy, or give a donation for the adult, pick
up its papers and homing pack, and travel home.
Some breeders will happily accept homes for their own adult dogs without asking for any
money. If you are taking a rescue from them, you will probably be asked for a donation
towards the rescue costs. However, if you have the dog you always wanted, you might feel
inclined to give a donation without being asked.
Key points
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Always have your basic dog equipment and supplies ready before you choose
Assess the whole litter first
Check each individual puppy‘s personality and health
Be guided by the breeder (or rehomer)
Ideally choose specialist breed rescues for adult dogs
And you‘ve got your low allergy dog!
Summary
In this chapter you have learned:




And how to adopt an adult pure breed from the breeder or rescue
It‘s now time to bring home your dog 
Page | 148
Final Words
I hope you have found this book as useful and enjoyable to read as I have to write. It‘s been
a real labour of love and a learning experience for me too.
With this book you should be able to navigate the low allergy dogs minefield, save a lot of
time and give you the right outcome – a low allergy dog you‘ll love to live with. I hope that‘s
what this book has done. You will see now you‘ve been though this book just how easy it is
to get the right dog when you apply the right process.
I‘m always interested to hear back from people. Testimonials and feedback are warmly
welcomed, so I can constantly improve my knowledge and my e-books. Get in touch at any
time.
Contact me at bev@howtochooseyourdog.com
I wish you boundless love, joy and happiness now and in the future with your new dog.
Bev
www.howtochooseyourdog.com
Page | 149

Low Allergy Dogs - How To Choose Your Dog

Transcription

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