- The Leela

M A G A Z I N E
The man behind the lens
ChAIRmAN’s messAge
T
he Leela Group has added to its portfolio of hotels The Leela
Ambience Convention Hotel, Delhi. Featuring one of the largest
convention and wedding venues in India, the luxury property’s
focus will be the business traveller as well as the Meetings, Incentives,
Conventions and Exhibitions (MICE) segment. Located in East Delhi,
close to Noida, The Leela Ambience Convention Hotel is in close
proximity of the ITPO Pragati Complex and the Akshardham Temple.
In the last season, the Group also added a few impressive accolades
to its name. At the fifth edition of Condé Nast Traveller India Readers’
Travel Awards, The Leela Palace Udaipur was voted the most ‘Favourite
Leisure Hotel’ of the country, and ESPA at The Leela Palace New Delhi
won the most ‘Favourite Hotel Spa’ award. Conde Nast Traveller is one
of the most renowned magazines for globetrotters, so these awards
At the fifth edition of
reflect the trust placed in the Leela brand by the discerning traveller.
Speaking of The Leela Palace Udaipur, do check out the feature
Condé Nast Traveller
on the hotel’s ESPA in this issue. For the next few months, the spa
India Readers’ Travel
has conceptualised three wellness programmes that allow you to not
Awards, The Leela Palace
Udaipur was voted the
most ‘Favourite Leisure
just experience some of its finest treatments (from aromatherapy to
Ayurvedic massages), but also explore the history and culture of the
royal city of Udaipur. As a part of any of the programmes, you will be
staying in a suite with a view of the gorgeous Lake Pichola.
The Leela Palace Udaipur, The Leela Goa and The Leela Kovalam —
Hotel’ of the country,
the three Leela resorts — have put together special winter packages
and ESPA at The Leela
for guests who wish to holiday and relax along with their family. The
Palace New Delhi won
winter is typically the busiest time for hotels, and we look forward to
the most ‘Favourite
Hotel Spa’ award
hosting you this season.
This year should see an increase in foreign tourists to India, thanks
to the government’s initiative of extending visa on arrival/e-visa
facility to many nations, including, most recently, Japan. By March
2016, it is expected that India will extend the facility to 150 countries.
I am sure your year began with a positive note, and you are carrying
many good memories of last year. Here’s wishing you and your family
great success for 2016 and onwards.
Vivek Nair
Chairman & Managing Director,
The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 4 | SPRING 2016
CONTENTS
T
H
E
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E
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A
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A
G
A
Z
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—
S
P
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G
2
0
1
6
38
14
Luxe Effect
20
Tech
24
Food
28
Books
Suave watches, jewellery
Will the smartwatch ever replace
Popular dishes from Jamavar, The
The story of Sam Pitroda, from his
and dapper shoes
the smartphone?
Leela’s signature Indian restaurant
recent autobiography
30
Business
38
Explorations
44
Photography
52
Fashion
How Saffronart.com became
India’s best
A selection of stunning pictures
A profile of aclaimed fashion
India’s biggest auction house
coffee trails
shot by Steve McCurry
designer Rahul Mishra
58
Discover India
66
The Good Life
The holy rivers
A writer explores what living big
of India, and their significance
in New York feels like
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 8 | SPRING 2016
T H E
L E E L A
M A G A Z I N E
—
S P R I N G
2 0 1 6
C O N T E N T S
COVER
Photo courtesy and copyright
Steve McCurry
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BACK OF T H E BOOK
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Snapshot
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Events
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Perspective
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Chef’s Corner
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Insider’s Guide
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Oenophilia
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Social Index
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THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 12 | SPRING 2016
CORPORATE
CEO & MANAGING DIRECTOR — Marzban Patel
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR — Anita Patel
CFO — Anup Dutta
DIRECTOR — Indu Joshi
CONNECT WITH US ON
LUXE EFFECT
Shoe Fetish
Jimmy Choo lace-ups to Gucci’s horsebit loafers,
we round up four dapper shoes.
JIMMY CHOO
TOD’S
You can never go wrong with
Tod’s creative director, Alessandra
Jimmy Choo lace-ups. They
Facchinetti, has got her groove back on
are not only the ideal red-
this spring. Tod’s spring collection styles
carpet footwear choice (Eddie
are loaded with attitude, complete
Redmayne was spotted in the
with safety pin embellishment, guitar
classic black lace-ups at the
patchwork and laser-cut treatments.
Golden Globes) but also add the
Our pick is the good-looking brogue
much-needed panache to boring
shoe. This perforated leather brogue,
formal wear. Pick the studded
with a wing-cup toe, leather insole,
lace-up Jimmy Choo from their
and a rubber sole, is made in Italy and
spring collection 2016 .
deserves a place in your wardrobe.
GUCCI
PRADA
Gucci’s classic horsebit loafer has made
Prada’s experimental Spring 2016 collection
a comeback this season and the style has
for men features boots with a refined design
been repeated in colored leathers with a
and refreshing spin. We like these Prada
paneled finish. The trendy shoe comes with
rubber nubs on its sole and has a dash of
colour with its green and red stripe.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
ankle boots. Made of classic black leather,
they come with a round toe, leather insole,
and elastic panels on the sides.
| 14 | SPRING 2016
lUxe effeCT
Timepieces
we adore
REFERENCE 57260 VACHERON
What is being called the world’s most
complicated watch is a Vacheron timepiece with
From the world’s
57 complications, more than 2,800 parts in its
most complicated
movement, and a two-pound gold case. It took
three watchmakers more than eight years to
chronometer to an ultra-
design and build this watch from scratch. The
thin watch, our picks of
57 complications include a world-time indicator,
the recent launches.
three calendar systems (Gregorian, Astronomical,
and Hebrew), a split-second chronograph, alarm,
and time-striking features, among others.
PIAGET ALTIPLANO SIHH 2015
The Altiplano watches from Piaget are true
classics. The SIHH 2015 is ultra-thin, with
its 4.65 mm movement and 82.4 mm case.
The watch’s retrograde indicators show
the day and the month, while the feature
at eight o’clock holds a second time zone.
The elegant timepiece also has a flyback
function, serving to reset the chronograph
hands to zero by a quick touch.
CHOPARD L.U.C XP
URUSHI WATCH
The first Rolex to be delivered on a
ROLEX YACHTMASTER
Keeping its tradition of creating watches
rubber strap, this new and improved
based on the Chinese zodiac alive, Chopard
Yachtmaster features a distinctive
has unveiled its monkey watch, made
bezel, a rose gold case, and is water
for 2016, ‘the year of the monkey’. The
resistant up to 100 m. What’s unique
timepiece is made by ancient Japanese
about this luxurious timepiece is its
lacquer (Urushi), has a hand-painted dial,
ridges, moulded on the wrist side of
with gold touches, and is set in an 18-karat
the strap which adjust to the natural
gold case. The watch depicts the monkey
curvature of your wrist, and make
gathering peaches, which according to an
wearing this watch an exceptionally
old Chinese belief, brings good luck.
comfortable experience.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 16 | SPRING 2016
LuxE EffECT
Exquisite Jewels
Regal styles and designs that must
find a place in your collection.
DIACOLOUR
DiaColour has a stunning collection of
handpicked natural pink sapphires and
diamonds carved into ethereal necklaces.
Green Zambian emeralds are a part of it. Their
auspicious all-diamond Ganesha ring and
HOUSE OF ROSE
the imperial ring crafted with mixed shaped
Popular for its range of Colombian
rubies and diamonds is over 18-carat white
jewels, House of Rose has recently
gold, and is a must-have.
procured an emerald: La Regina, a
single pear-shaped 115.76-carat
Colombian Emerald suspended
on a 3-line diamond solitaire
necklace in a diamond casing. The
process of working the splendid La
Regina into its current design took
the craftsmen 18 months.
VISWA & DEVJI
BIRDHICHAND GHANSHYAMDAS JEWELLERS
Viswa & Devji’s latest collection draws inspiration
from the beauty of life, and the rich culture of
Birdhichand’s Adaa collection is a fine illustration of
India. The diamond necklaces in the collection
the acclaimed Kundan Meenakari style of jewellery.
fuse contemporary art and traditional charm.
The Jodha bangles and the bridal pearls are a unique
combination of conventional and eccentric jewellery.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 18 | SPRING 2016
TECH
brands, recently launched iRist, a smartwatch
that runs on Android KitKat replicating a
smartphone experience on your wrist with its
own SIM slot and Micro SD compartment.
A new ecosystem
One of the biggest challenges
for the fledgling smartwatch
The Apple Watch
Hermes features
hand-stitched leather
Are they merely a
category is the user interface.
Major
brands
have
The Breitling B55
been
grappling with packing relevant
passing fad? Can the
information and apps with visual
smartwatch ever replace
appeal. Samsung has embarked on its own
with a weather and wind monitoring function,
4GB of storage, and is also compatible with iOS
The Jawbone UP3
your smartphone?
path with Tizen, and the efforts seem to be
Ashwin Rajagopalan
finally bearing fruit with the new Gear S2. This
two days out of a single charge, fitness trackers
device boasts of at least two days of battery
comfortably last five days and above.
explores.
devices (unlike other Android Wear watches).
not have kept their ‘date’ yet, but this year
life and a cool new navigation system that
The
smartwatch trend
W
Smartwatches are still evolving and might
could see the category finally come of age.
The gold rush begins
uses the watch’s dial to toggle screens. Apple
New and upcoming releases
Montblanc is all set to launch a $390 electronic
It wasn’t just Pebble; Samsung and Sony took
has upped its game with the new watch OS 2,
Luxury brands have also joined the smartwatch
watch band (with an activity tracker and email
the wraps off their smartwatches, while Google
while Google’s new iteration of Android Wear
party. Tag Heuer just launched Connected, a
display) that will function as an accessory for its
Wear made a debut with LG’s G Watch and the
(5.1) made its debut with the LG Watch Urbane.
$1500 watch that runs on Android Wear
Moto 360. But the numbers didn’t quite match
Aside from emails, texts and call alerts, you can
and is inspired by the company’s
all the hype. Industry experts and analysts
get news updates, and stay connected on social
Carrera Calibre line. Aside from
media.
custom watch faces (for its
TimeWalker watches. Breitling’s
upcoming
B55
watch
connects to Android
and Apple devices
hen Apple’s much-awaited Apple
devices that went down without a whimper,
predicted that 2014 will be the year of the
Watch — the first portable Apple
prompting a leading technology website to call
smartwatch; it wasn’t. It didn’t happen in 2015,
device without the customary ‘i’
Internet-enabled watches a ‘publicity gimmick’.
either. Morgan Stanley had estimated that the
Keep track of it all
and
via
Bluetooth
allows
Apple Watch would breach the 30 million sales
The smartwatch also competes with
to
marked the biggest stride for a category that
The logical next step?
mark in its debut year; Apple didn’t quite live
the fitness tracker, which is a more
information
we have now come to know as ‘wearables’. It’s
It was probably the smartphone revolution in
up to that expectation.
sorted category. Fitbit’s Charge
brand has been
not an entirely new idea, at least not since Dick
2010 that was the catalyst for the smartwatch
HR keeps track of your steps,
focused on pilots).
Tracy’s legendary watch, which doubled up as
category.
calories burnt, sleep patterns
The cool Gucci i.am+,
a two-way wrist radio back in the 1940s. It’s
dependent on their smartphones for everything
Complementary device or
standalone device?
one of the few instances where a cool fictional
from entertainment to office productivity,
Can a smartwatch replace your smartphone?
rate, aside from simple text
has some impressive features
idea ended up becoming reality, albeit seven
smartwatches offered an option of a ‘second
It seems that manufacturers haven’t cracked
and call alerts (when it is
including a front facing video
decades later.
screen’ so that you didn’t have to keep drawing
the question. Samsung seems to be exploring
hooked up with your phone via
your phone more frequently than a trigger
both the options — the Gear S (in 2014)
Bluetooth). Fitbit’s companion app
Blimps on the radar
happy cowboy. Pebble, a Kickstarter project
came with a 2-inch screen (that’s the same
gives you detailed reports. It’s the same
We saw the first signs of an impending revolution
raised $10 million in 2012, and successfully
size as mobile phones in the aughts) and
with Jawbone’s Up3 or Garmin’s Forerunner
in the aughts. There was IBM’s WatchPad,
launched a smartwatch that sold 1 million units
its own SIM card slot. The sequel, the Gear
225. Taking a cue from fitness trackers,
which was powered by an open source (Linux
by 2013. The key to its success was supporting
S2, comes with both standalone and pairing
smartwatches like the Apple Watch and the
46 mm sapphire
watch band will
version 2.4) operating system with a few add-
both iOS and Android devices, with a second-
options. The Apple Watch, on the other hand,
Gear S2 have also integrated key fitness and
crystal
be
ons like Bluetooth and an accelerometer. There
screen approach bringing notifications of calls
is clearly a complementary device, bringing key
tracking components. Fitness trackers typically
and custom-made
into
were
experiments
and texts to your wrist. It synced with your
notifications to your wrist with the ‘eye candy’
have a longer battery life than smartwatches.
Apps, the device is
without
like the joystick-enabled Matsucom onHand
smartphone via Bluetooth and connected to
user interface that we have come to expect.
While the Apple watch manages just one day
fully compatible with
PC, Microsoft’s Spot and Fossil’s Wrist PDA. All
the Internet.
Intex, one of India’s leading home-grown mobile
on a single charge and the Gear S2 squeezes
Android Wear. It comes
prefix — debuted in early 2015, it probably
other
not-so-successful
As
consumers
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
became
more
| 20 | SRPING 2016
and also monitors your heart
The LG Watch Urbane
track
you
flight
(the
a standalone smartband
camera for video calls
(Aside
from
emails
and
voice
calls). IWC’s new
The Fitbit Charge HR
Connect
display)
SRPING 2016
texts,
The Tag Heuer
Connected
| 21 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
on
their
smart
incorporated
the
strap
comprising
renowned
Swiss aesthetics.
FOOD
Kitchen Confidential
Uncovering the recipes for four popular
dishes of Jamavar, the signature Indian
fine dining restaurant of The Leela Group.
P
roviding an ultimate culinary experience, Jamavar is The Leela’s
Indian specialty restaurant, present at the group’s Mumbai Goa,
Bengaluru, New Delhi and Chennai properties. Taken together,
these restaurants serve an array of regional Indian foods (from kebabs to
curries), but the common feature across all the Jamavars is its delicious
north Indian food. The tasty flavours are defined, to a great extent, by
traditional Indian spices. Add to this an opulent ambience, and you have
the very definition of an authentic royal dining experience.
We present Chef’s recipes of four of the popular Jamavar dishes, so
that you can try making them in your own home kitchen.
Rogan-E-Nishat
Ingredients
Method
•
Lamb rack (de-boned rib bone cut into chops)
400 gm
•
Lamb leg (de-boned and cut into 40 gm cubes)
720 gm
and black cardamom, mace, cloves and sauté well for few
•
Vegetable oil
150 ml
minutes.
•
Onions (peeled and sliced)
680 gm
•
Ginger-garlic paste
180 gm
•
Cinnamon stick
1
•
Bay leaves (Indian)
4
salt turmeric powder until the onions are well sautéed and
•
Cloves
6
slightly mashed.
•
Cardamom green (whole)
10
•
Cardamom black (whole)
4
•
Mace (dried whole)
2 gm
•
Turmeric powder
4 gm
•
Garam masala
15 gm
•
Chilli powder (red, deggi-Kashmiri chilli)
35 gm
•
Coriander powder
9 gm
•
Cumin powder
2 pinch
•
Tomato puree
350 gm
•
•
Cardamom green (powder)
5 gm
For Garnish
•
Water
2l
Ginger julienne
•
Salt
To Taste
Fresh coriander leaves (sprigs)
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
•
•
Heat the oil in a sauté; add cinnamon stick, bay leaves, green
Add the sliced onions, sauté until the golden brown, and add
the ginger garlic paste.
•
•
Add the lamb chops and the cubed leg of lamb, season with
Add red chillies-coriander and cumin powder, tomato puree,
and sauté until the oil starts separating.
•
Add the water and simmer until the lamb chops are tender;
remove the chops and simmer the curry until cubes are done.
•
While simmering the lamb cubes, reduce the sauce until you
have a smooth and slightly thickened consistency.
•
Place the lamb chops back into the curry, add garam masala
and green cardamom powder, season to taste.
Simmer for few more minutes, set aside.
| 24 | SPRING 2016
BHARANY’S
Dal Makhani
Malai Kulfi
Paneer Tikka
Ingredients
Ingredients
•
Paneer
500 gm
•
Yellow chilli powder
20 gm
•
Salt
5 gm
•
Cream
100 ml
Ingredients
•
Urad dal whole (black lentils)
500 gm
•
Gram flour
10 gm
•
Rabri
1l
•
Channa dal (yellow lentils)
50 gm
•
Ajwain
5 gm
•
Cardamom powder
2 gm
•
Oil
60 ml
•
Kebab masala
5 gm
•
Cream
103 gm
•
Butter
380 gm
•
Hung curd
20 gm
•
Kewda water
6-7 drops
•
Ginger-garlic paste
200 gm
•
Turmeric powder
10 gm
•
Rose water
9-10 drops
•
Fresh cream
300 gm
•
Ginger garlic paste
10 gm
•
Red chilli powder
20 gm
•
Garam masala powder
5 gm
Method
•
Fenugreek leaves powder
10 gm
•
•
Tomato puree
•
Cumin powder
•
Salt
To Taste
Method
• Add the cardamom powder,
Cut the fresh paneer into 4 cm diameter
the cream, the kewda
850 gm
cubes, and sprinkle with salt and yellow
water, and the rose water
5 gm
chilli powder, set to the side till required.
in the rabri.
•
Method
• Boil well, wash and rinse the lentils in water until
• Mix it properly.
ajwain, the salt, the yellow chilli powder
• Pour it in a mould and
deep-freeze it.
and a small amount of the cream.
•
they are tender and floury-soft; while boiling add
the salt and the oil.
Make a batter of the gram flour, the
•
• Heat butter with a dash of the oil in a casserole, add
Mix the batter and gradually add the rest
of the cream to form a smooth paste.
Ingredients used for the rabri
Dip the paneer into the batter and place
•
Milk
5l
onto a tray. Once all the paneer has
•
Sugar
200 gm
the ginger-garlic paste, the red chilli-cumin powder,
been dipped, placed them into a skewer
the tomato puree, and sauté until the oil separates.
and cook in a moderate tandoor.
Method for making the rabri
Remove when golden brown and
• Boil the milk, and reduce
sprinkle with the kebab masala.
it till it becomes thick.
• Add the boiled lentils and toss well with the
•
masala, add the fenugreek leaf powder, the butter
and the cream.
• Lastly, add the garam masala and simmer until it
gets a smooth consistency.
•
Serve with sliced cucumber,
EXQUISITE JEWELLERY & FINE JAMAWAR SHAWLS
• Add the sugar and cool.
onion, tomato, lemon wedges and
Note: One mould contains 84 gm
green chillies.
For Garnish: Butter (fresh and chilled)
of rabari. Total moulds are 12.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 26 | SPRING 2016
14, Sunder Nagar Market, New Delhi-110 003 | Contact : +91 11 4351 8755, 2435 3957
Fax : +91 1 1 2435 3081 | E-mail.: mail@bharanys.com
BOOKS
patents,
US, Sam Pitroda could have sat
making money, the new millionaire one
back and enjoyed life. Instead,
innovator
turning
entrepreneur
and
evening, after arriving in Delhi, found he
was unable to make a call to his wife in
he returned and worked with
Chicago. One can only guess at how other
the Rajiv Gandhi government to
people might have reacted. But Pitroda’s
put his knowledge of telecom
reaction was: At home I told Anu about
into connecting India. In his
what I had decided, he says in the book.
“We’ve got more than enough money
autobiography, fittingly titled
now,” I said. “I don’t really need to work
Dreaming Big: My Journey to
anymore. I’m going to spend the next ten
Connect India, we learn how a
years fixing India’s telephones.”
boy from a small town became an
influential figure in policymaking.
How? By straight trying to meet
the prime minister of India, then Indira
Gandhi. Somehow, the PMO agreed to
GETTY IMAGES
The highs and
lows of an
After he made his millions in the
give him 10 minutes but the NRI knew
By Natasha Khanna
A
GETTY IMAGES
| 28 | SPRING 2016
Pitroda spent around a decade working with Rajiv Gandhi
Gandhi was late for the meeting; in the
meantime he struck up a rapport with her son. And so it was that he came
knew he wanted to be a millionaire
to start the Centre for the Development of Telematics (C-DOT) whose 36
before turning 40, so that he could be
million dollar, 36-month plan was to indigenously make digital switches
free to do whatever he wanted to do — not that
RAXs (rural automatic exchanges) that would connect rural India, the
he knew what that might be. Fatefully enough,
outward manifestation of which were ultimately the bright yellow STD/ISD
at 37, Pitroda, an engineer, an entrepreneur and
booths that were ubiquitous in the ’90s.
2-million-dollar cheque in his breast pocket.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
an hour. He asked and he got. Indira
t the age of 32, Sam Pitroda vaguely
an inventor, did find himself driving home with a
Sam Pitroda is the founding chairman of
India’s Telecom Commission
that to make his presentation he needed
Pitroda has worked with Rajiv Gandhi
and headed the National Knowledge
Commission under the Manmohan
Singh government
A Gandhian at heart, Pitroda’s emphasis was always on swadeshi. From
giving licences for manufacture of the equipment needed for the switches
In his recently launched autobiography,
to tweaking the Western-style coin-operated public phones to the Indian
Rajiv Gandhi’s assassination, however, left an imprint on his own
titled Dreaming Big, Pitroda describes his journey
model of phone booths operated by a person, it was all to be Made in India.
life. He was overwhelmed not only by the loss but also by the realisation
from a small town in Orissa to America, where he
“Gandhi,” says Pitroda, “was embedded in my brain — his moral power, the
that he was quite nearly broke. “The irony of the situation was that almost
did his post-graduation. His landing in Italy, falling
way he never turned away from what he had set out to do, but also the fact
everyone thought I was a millionaire, which I had been when we sold
in love with London, his experiences in New York,
that he arrived in South Africa as a lawyer, looking to make some kind of a
Wescom (a company he had joined as a stakeholder) — but that was
living with a friend until he found his feet, getting
career for himself. Yet, he found something completely different, a social
more than ten years ago now. For three years I had gone back and forth
married and starting a new life with 33 cents in
mission. He became a new person, a person who devoted his life to what
from Chicago to India every two weeks, on my own money. I had asked
his pocket, all these are interesting. But what
he called ‘public work’.”
for and received a one rupee-a-year salary for over ten years in India. The
makes Pitroda’s story compelling is his optimism,
His closeness to Rajiv Gandhi meant that he had carte blanche to take
government had given me a house and a car, but I had taken care of the rest
his dreaming big, his doggedness. In the book,
on whatever role he wanted in the government once he had accomplished
of my expenses and my family’s from my own personal funds, which were
Pitroda, who worked with Rajiv Gandhi, and then
his work with C-DOT. He moved on from telecom to using technology in
now all but finished,” he says in his book.
headed the National Knowledge Commission
other areas of Indian life. “I was thinking hard about how to bring technology
With Rajiv Gandhi gone, all he could see was darkness, he says. He
under the Manmohan Singh government, writes
to bear on India’s most pressing problems and what I might do to further
returned to the US, a wreck. But his can-do attitude kicked in once again. A
about how he came to meet Rajiv Gandhi, whose
that,” he says. It was finally decided that he would come on as adviser
long-ago patent filed by him put him back in business. Though India didn’t
government he worked for and who he became
to the prime minister for the Technology Missions, with a ministerial rank.
ever seem far from his thoughts. In 2004, with the impending elections, he
very close to.
These were to focus on drinking water, literacy, immunisation, telecom, oils
decided to return. “When I left India 13 years earlier, I had been a wreck.
and dairy, and from mobilising polio vaccines to sorting out drinking water
But that felt like the very distant past. Once again, I was full of energy. I told
problems, he seems to have left an imprint.
Anu, ‘We need to go back.’”
After working on technology research in
telecommunications in America, filing for several
SPRING 2016
| 29 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
BuSINESS
The Numero Uno
of India’s art market
Saffronart
has managed
to impact a
buying culture
that primarily
relies on tactile
experiences
Saffronart has opened
its newest art gallery in
Prabhadevi, in Mumbai
Saffronart, the biggest auction house in the country, has liberated art from its
brick and mortar confines. Founded in 2000, the online auctioneer has also,
in the last decade, expanded into selling collectibles — jewellery, vintage
cars, and more. What makes this even more impressive is that the company
almost went bankrupt in 2003.
BY GRETCHEN FERRAO
I
am meeting Dinesh Vazirani, founder,
Laughing (1957) fetched a whopping Rs 16.84
e-commerce and digital infrastructure were at a
Saffronart, at the auction house’s newest
crore. The event also set three world records
fairly nascent stage in India. Vazirani attributes
gallery at Prabhadevi, Mumbai. Still a
with the works of Nilima Sheikh, G Ravinder
this bold move to the short-lived noughties
work in progress, the space is scattered with
Reddy and Sailoz Mukherjea — “a landmark
dotcom boom, and a lack of easily accessible
a selection of FN Souzas, each being closely
not just in terms of sales, but also curating and
information to art collectors at the time. “Both
scrutinised by an in-house team. I congratulate
cataloguing,” says Vazirani.
my wife, Minal, and I are very passionate
Vazirani on the company’s 15th anniversary,
For a digital concept that had many
collectors, and we spent all our free time going
which was recently commemorated with a
doubters
has
to exhibitions. We used to go to galleries and
live auction, ‘Modern Evening Sale’, in New
managed to make quite the impact within a
they’d put out one painting at a time. It was
Delhi. It was here that the aforementioned
buying culture that primarily relies on a tactile
fun but the process was time-consuming.
modernist painter’s iconic Man And Woman
experience. When Saffronart was launched,
There were no publications or information on
back
in
The LeeLa Magazine
2000,
Saffronart
| 30 | SPring 2016
The Vaziranis are
passionate art
collectors themselves
SPring 2016
| 31 | The LeeLa Magazine
in 2003, the Vaziranis
pooled their funds to
revive Saffronart and
expand their platform to
encompass collectibles
you’ll ask, why the word ‘saffron’,” says Vazirani,
moving forward with a robotic clarity that can
possibly be chalked up to one too many media
interactions. “Well, because we wanted a word
that connotes something unique. Something
colourful. ‘Saffron’ has that kind of high-end
halo.”
April 2000: Saffronart.com launched.
November 2000: First online auction;
sales worth uSD100, 000.
S.h. raza’s painting Surya namaskar, which
represents the different phases of the sun,
procured a bid of $738,462 on the website
2001-2002: NRI focus, global on-ground
educational events. New York, San Francisco,
Los Angeles, London, Hong Kong.
Early 2003: Overextended finances, poor
the Internet. So from a buyer’s perspective,
platform for high-value art, based on the belief
transacting was very difficult because you had
that, if there was transparency of information,
no reference points,” he explains. This sparked
including prices, the collector would make an
the idea for Saffronart.com, an online auction
informed decision over time. “And, of course,
sales, near bankruptcy.
Late 2003: Personal pooling-in of funds,
bank loans.
2004: Second wave of success...
I spend a good chunk of the initial
interaction listening to Vazirani rush through
Saffronart’s trajectory
— important dates,
the odd life lesson or two for good measure.
Then we go on to chat about how Saffronart’s
international model of communication was
adapted to India. Besides awareness activities
in major metros and satellite cities, Vazirani
tapped into the Indian network of galleries
which, unlike international institutions, offered
the advantage of subject know-how. “When we
published prices online, everyone thought we
were crazy because it took the power away from
geTTy iMageS
the seller. The transparency helped educate the
hugo Weihe, the newly appointed CeO of
Saffronart, was international Director of
asian art at Christie’s in his previous stint
The LeeLa Magazine
| 32 | SPring 2016
Indian buyer,” says Vazirani.
The second wave of expansion, in 2004,
involved a series of gallery launches from New
a Dnyaneshwar Mane
painting, part of StoryLTD, a
Saffronart initiative to take
art to the masses
He cites Kiran Nadar and Anupam Poddar as
examples, who have built private museums in
Delhi and Gurgaon respectively. “This spread of
culture through private and public partnerships
— international and local museums adopting
Indian artists (for instance, Nasreen Mohamedi’s
show in conjunction with KNMA in Madrid) —
fuels the development of the market, offering
York to London to Delhi. A move that aimed
Saffronart. It kept us in good stead all the time.
to unite two key aspects of art: ease of online
The experience said, ‘now you’ve decided on
transaction with the sociocultural nature of the
quality, focusing on one brand and message.’”
subject itself. During this period, the Vaziranis
Even the best laid plans go awry during
also decided to expand their platform from
an economic downturn. In 2008, the Indian art
an art to a collectibles company — jewellery,
auction market was valued at about uSD143
interiors collectibles, vintage cars, antiquities,
million; 40 per cent being contemporary
etc. More recently, the company has added
art. A year later, the entire market shrank to
prime properties, in India and London, to its
uSD45 million, of which only uSD5 million or
service offering. Apart from the latter, all sales
less, was contemporary art. Private sales took
are via auctions and (sometimes) exhibitions.
precedence over auctions. Almost a decade
“We offer what is unique in the category and
later, Vazirani is confident that the market has
have a strong provenance. With real estate,
bounced back stronger than ever. “Sales for
we take on a more curatorial role, by featuring
Indian modern and contemporary art stand
exclusive properties for the discerning buyer,”
at approximately uSD80.6 million. Saffronart
he elaborates.
currently holds 31 per cent of the art market
A portfolio as diverse as that raises the
share, with sales totaling uSD25.3 million. We
question, how has the brand managed to
sell art to collectors from all over the world,
preserve its essence? “Just experience,” quips
but most of them are based in India,” he states.
Vazirani. “We started with something called
Modern art is in a league of its own, with artists
Planet Saffron, under which we had four brands:
like Raza, Hussain and Souza being in much
Saffron Art (art), Saffron Space (interiors),
demand. A testament to this is the recent sale
Saffron Style (high-end fashion), and Saffron
of FN Souza’s Birth (1955), made in oil on board,
Soul (wellness). Basically Planet Saffron was the
for Rs.26.5 Crore (approx) at a Christie’s auction
alternative lifestyle — all things rich, colourful.
— monumental as far as the Indian art scene is
Then we realised that it’s just impossible to
concerned.
build four brands, though the four brands’
Vazirani lists multiple factors behind
quality varied. So, in early 2003, we dropped
this trend. There has been a steady growth
all the other brands and focused on our core,
of a strong collector base within the country.
The LeeLa Magazine
| 34 | SPring 2016
“Saffronart currently
holds 31 per cent of
the country’s art market
share, with sales totaling
USD 25.3 million.”
Falcon brooch and an emerald and diamond ring,
both part of Saffronart’s jewellery collection
in regulations, but the
will send established artists to revisit their
process is becoming more
native villages, where they will help train local
streamlined. If you look at
women in folk and tribal handicrafts. “All this
it, because there’s been
will come together at some point but we have
no
a long, long way to go.”
commercial
trade
the
The firm has, as I mentioned, recently
expertise which used to
introduced StoryLTD, a brand whose digital
reside in India has moved
media-savvy
to New York and London;
willingness to adapt to the needs of changing
there
times. “It is a weekly online auction for low
in
antiquities,
and
is
all
appreciation
endowments
concept
displays
Vazirani’s
for
to mid-level collectibles. It’s a mass platform.
All
It’s target audience cuts across everything.
the best colleges and
There is a crossover, but the choice of the
programmes are outside
platform is with the collector. Digital media,
India. So unless there’s
social media, Google adverts are much more
that ecosystem of trade,
attuned to Story. That’s the market you’re
it’s difficult for there to be
building,” he says.
Indian
art
there.
education,” he ruminates.
As for the Saffronart story thus far, Vazirani
Saffronart’s antiquity
takes pride in the fact that his is a young, agile
sale in December 2015
and most importantly home-grown company,
wove the history of India’s
with a satisfied collector base and a sound
forgotten collectors (like
team. All the same, experience keeps the co-
Karl Khandalavala), who
founders grounded, “As an entrepreneur, you
more exposure to collectors,” he reasons. In a
have helped preserve our culture. Additionally,
understand that you have to work in this world
similar vein, he comments on the evolution of
The Saffronart Foundation supports events
with certain humility and not with aggression
the young Indian art collector, “There’s a huge
such as the Kochi Biennale, the Foundation
all the time. The privilege of working in an
databank, whether it’s through publications
for Indian Contemporary Art (FICA), and the
industry which is your passion doesn’t come
or the Internet. So buyers buy quality things
India pavilion at the Venice Biennale. Of note
very often in life. It’s been a fantastic journey
because they’ve done their research. It’s a much
is an upcoming outreach programme that
for us both.”
Fn Souza’s Man and Woman Laughing is one
of the most famous paintings of indian art
more mature buyer, too. The general wealth
and confidence within India has increased
R
tremendously. In some ways, there is that socalled social pressure; people understand that
if you have a great house but no art on your
walls, it’s a little strange.”
Diamond & Kundan Jadau Jewellery
While on the subject of evolution, we talk
of the most recent developments at Saffronart;
namely, new CEO Hugo Weihe; and the recently
launched brand, StoryLTD.
The emerging antiquities market, Vazirani
believes, will be a game-changer, and who
better to have on your team than the man
who built the Christie’s Department of Indian
and Southeast Asian Art. “Hugo’s specialty is
antiquities. unfortunately, the market is mired
an example of abstract furniture
featured on the website
The LeeLa Magazine
| 36 | SPring 2016
Limited edition quirky lighting
displayed on the website
ExplOrATIONS
Caffeine nation
From Coorg to Visakhapatnam — a tour of six coffee
estates in India that produce some world-class blends
and which offer guided tours and luxurious stays.
By Nolan Lewis
The Tata Coffee Estates offer a range
of premium heritage bungalows
A
fter spending the first few days of her vacation in Australia, Deepali
has a trademark blend, distinct flavours and a unique texture. Big fish
Nandwani, the Editor-in-Chief of the publishing house that brings
don’t always eat small fish.
In Coorg, you can get an understanding on how
coffee, vanilla and pepper are grown and harvested
COORG
Tata Coffee Estates
out this magazine, started experiencing severe withdrawal
On her return to India, Deepali, the newly minted artisanal coffee-
In the coffee capital of India, the Tata Coffee Estates offer a range of
symptoms. She started searching the streets of Melbourne for a café that
convert, ensured everyone she knew had heard about Australia’s coffee
premium heritage bungalows that are over a century old to stay at, while
serves, well, the big Indian obsession, tea! In between headaches induced
culture. She frowned at the depleting quantities of imported coffees in
you experience the planter’s life. With spacious rooms, cosy fireplaces
by the deprivation of her favourite tipple, her tourist guide looked at her
her kitchen cabinet. She also sent one of the juniors at work on a mission
and Victorian furniture, these bungalows of yore are fit for royalty. Sign
with astonishment. The Australians, he said, don’t drink tea. They drink
to find the best coffee estates in the country from which she could source
up for the guided ‘Bean to Cup’ plantation tour to understand how
more discerning brews, like coffee. So, where is Starbucks, she demanded,
new blends — which is what inspired this feature.
coffee is processed from a tiny bean to a piping hot cuppa. Explore the
hoping at least to down some of their dependable cappuccino or
Not many are aware that India produces some of the best coffees in
sprawling estates, host a sing-a-long around a crackling bonfire in the
the world — from the creamy Monsooned Malabar to the dark and sinful
evenings or plan a barbecue roast at the side. For the naturalists, get
She should have known better. Starbucks has not done well in
coffee from Araku Valley. There is a lot more to write about the coffee scene
an understanding on how coffee, vanilla and pepper are grown and
Australia. The café culture Down Under is far more nuanced than what the
in India: even less known is the fact that the country has some beautiful
harvested. You can even find a quiet corner to do some bird-watching
American chain had expected. Even the smallest Australian stand-alone
estates, which are excellent places to explore for travellers.
as Coorg is home to over 300 species of birds. Wake up early to watch
even a latte...
ThE LEELa MagazInE
| 38 | SprIng 2016
Sign up for the guided ‘Bean to Cup’ plantation tour
in Coorg to understand how coffee is processed
SprIng 2016
| 39 | THE LEELa MagazInE
CHIKMAGALUR
The Serai
If you are looking for a plantation combined with a five-star ambience
then the Serai is the place for you. Saint Baba Budan brought home, after
his travels in the folds of his robe, a handful of coffee beans from Mocha in
Yemen, and planted them in the hills around Chikmagalur. The Baba Budan
hills are now vibrant with lush coffee plantations, with white blossoms
peeking out. roll up your sleeves and learn to tell through guidance which
bud is ready for the picking, and by the time you’re back in your room,
taste it. Each elegantly furnished two-tiered villa overlooks an expanse
of plantations and paddy fields. Upstairs, you sleep with the curtain of
stars outside and downstairs, you lounge besides your private pool or
gazebo. There’s a lot to discover in and around Chikmagalur, right from
Sharavanabelagola, the largest monolithic statue in the world, to the twin
temple towns of Belur and Halebid, the deemed UNESCO World Heritage
Site. If you prefer being close to the resort, opt for the Harley Davidson
package or an archery class. Several of the Indian blends available at the
Café Coffee Day are sourced from here, with an array of choices to taste
and choose from. theserai.in
powered by solar energy and
a gobar gas plant, in Coorg,
the Mojo plantation is a
certified organic spice farm
the mahouts give their elephants a bath at the Dubare Elephant Camp or
Rainforest Retreat
even volunteer to give them a scrub. You can hop onto their backs and get
powered by harnessing solar energy and a gobar gas plant, the Mojo
a tour of the Nagarahole National park, where you may spot the elusive
plantation is a certified organic spice farm. Two deluxe cottages powered
royal Bengal Tiger if you are lucky! Take home some Monsooned Malabar
by 12V solar lighting are set in a rustic surrounding, of bamboo, banana,
Coffee, which is unique to India. Discovered by accident in the 1950s
coffee, and orange plants, and surrounded by a crystal-clear stream. If you
when coffee beans shipped from the ports of Malabar coast travelled
are planning a longer stay, opt for the Faraway Cottage, which works on
to Europe during the wet monsoon months, and were found to have
self-service and has a weekly and monthly tariff plan. For a more authentic
swollen in size due to absorption of moisture in the air. This produced a
camping experience, you can also choose to live in semi-furnished tents
coffee with distinctive lingering mellow flavour, a blend of Arabica
amidst fruit orchards. You can spot close over 40 species of endemic
and robusta beans, which has since become extremely popular.
wild orchids blossoming in the rainforests nearby during the winters.
plantationtrails.net
Among the animals occasionally spotted here are wild boar, jackal, civet
Halli Berri
Not to be confused with the famous Hollywood actress, the Kannada
The Serai, in Chikmagalur, is a
five-star ambience with villas
words loosely translate to ‘the hill of berries,’ named after the luscious red
at The Serai, you can lounge besides
your private pool or gazebo
cats, Malabar giant squirrel, mongoose, porcupine, slender loris, barking
deer, king cobra, scorpions, and many rare amphibians such as caecelians
and tree frogs. All of the premises’ produce is organic, using a variety of
techniques such as panchakavya, permaculture and biodynamic farming.
Mojo’s ‘Organic’ Civet Coffee is one of the world’s most exclusive varieties
of civet coffee, which is produced from the beans of coffee berries that
Monsooned
Malabar was
discovered in
the 1950s
ThE LEELa MagazInE
have been eaten by wild brown palm civets. After collecting and manual
processing, these beans yield an aromatic coffee widely recognised as
one of the most exotic in the world. rainforestours.com
| 40 | SprIng 2016
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| 41 | ThE LEELa MagazInE
“The adivasis of araku
have been brewing
coffee long before it
became an urban staple.”
fruit that abundantly dots its landscape. The luxurious homestay, run by a
matrilineal family from the Kambihalli estate, has been growing coffee in
their plantation since 1948. Choose from three old English cottages with
just a touch of Zen, on the borders of the Bhadra Tiger reserve. Two of
the four walls are made entirely of glass and offer you a 180 degree view
not to be confused with the hollywood actress, the Kannada
words loosely translate to ‘the hill of berries’
of the jungles around. Don’t be surprised if you wake up to a muster of
peacocks strutting outside your windows. There is no food menu at the
estate; whatever is on sale at the local markets and what can be foraged
The coffee museum thematically tracks the history of world
coffee, the legends and traditions associated with it
from the estate is served at the table. The choices will put a buffet to
shame, though. Most planters blend their Arabica coffee beans with the
milder robusta; Halli Berri keeps its poison intense and sinful. Their
Tasteful colonial and art deco furniture
has been used to decorate each of the
bungalows in Elephant Valley
crushed coffee powder is 100% Arabica, a culinary risk that would make
most cuppers shiver. Halli Berri’s garden café attracts bikers from the
Harley Davidson club in Bengaluru, russians from Goa and hippies driving
of the tribal way of life. The production of Araku organic coffee is part of
around the country in trailer-parks, curious to sample what makes their
the Tribal livelihoods programme, being facilitated by Naandi foundation
TAMIL NADU
Elephant Valley
signature brew legendary. halliberri.in
in collaboration with the Integrated Tribal Development Agency.
located on an old elephant pass next to the border of the national forest
arakuvalleycoffeehouse.com
which extends into the wildlife sanctuaries of Kerala, Elephant Valley
VISAKHAPATNAM
Araku Valley Coffee House
araku
ThE LEELa MagazInE
The Elephant Valley Coffee is a mix of organically grown arabica
from the finest coffee growing regions of South India.
offers 20 uniquely designed bungalows which have been
tastefully and artistically created using local products —
The Adivasis of Araku have been brewing coffee long before it became an
locally-sourced granite, reclaimed doors, windows and wood.
urban staple. In fact, coffee is not a food product; it has been the world’s
Tasteful colonial and art deco furniture have been used to
most widely accepted and socially-sanctioned drug. Tribes from Ethiopia
decorate each bungalow in a unique way. Each cottage has its
to Amazon have always used it as a psychoactive ingredient. The epicurean
own private garden overlooking the Gangavaar river and the
cuppers of the world always make a mention of Araku in their list of the
coffee plantation. The Valley restaurant serves gourmet cuisine
world’s best coffees. While the Araku Valley Coffee House doesn’t offer
using organically-farmed vegetables. The Valley lounge next to
accommodation, they do offer fantastic insights into the origins, history
the restaurant is a clubhouse with a collection of entertaining
and spread of coffee. The coffee museum thematically tracks the history of
games, such as wooden backgammon, a traditional game played
world coffee, the legends and traditions associated with it and the modern
with seashells, carrom, scrabble and an extensive book and
research and technology on the subject. Choose from variety of blends
DVD library. The Elephant Valley Coffee is a mix of organically
including ethnic, single-blends, Arabica, robusta or their cinnamon,
grown Arabica beans from the finest coffee growing regions
pepper, vanilla or cardamom-flavoured coffees at their souvenir store.
of South India. Grown amongst indigenous trees, fruit trees
They also have an interesting collection of coffee-infused chocolates and
and exotic species, their produce is environmental-friendly.
coffee-coated nuts. Wander around Araku Valley and get firsthand views
duneecogroup.com
| 42 | SprIng 2016
SprIng 2016
| 43 | ThE LEELa MagazInE
PHOTOGRAPHY
S
The man
behind
the lens
teve
McCurry’s
latest
book, India, opens with
an intimate portrait of an
old, balding man covered in Holi
colours, in Udaipur. As you browse
through the work, you see many
faces — withered, anxious, joyous,
but all redolent of a hinterland
teeming with diversity.
McCurry
captures
what
few eyes register — from the
A selection of pictures from the oeuvre
beaming dreams in the eyes
of the famous British photographer
of a child bride, the loathing in
the eyes of old beggars. But the
Steve McCurry, who has recently
book is about more than just
released ‘India’, another book testifying
people — it also features the
to his fascination with the country.
country’s architectural treasures,
like stepwells.
PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY
STEVE MCCURRY STUDIOS
McCurry’s
interesting
career
story.
He
is
an
studied
cinematography, but on doing a
photography project in college
found
that
it
was
his
true
calling. He went on to work as a
photojournalist for a newspaper
for two years, and then quit to
leave for India. Here he worked
as a freelancer and honed his
skills. The British photographer
has travelled all around the world,
© STEVE MCCURRY
and escaped death several times:
Holi in Rajasthan
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 44 | SPRING 2016
SPRING 2016
| 45 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
© STEVE MCCURRY
(Extreme Left) A woman and a priest in Camino,
Piedmont, Italy; (Left below) Steve McCurry;
(Above) A training session of the Shaolin monks,
in Zhengzhou, China
while covering the Cambodian Civil War, the Iran-Iraq war, the Gulf War, and
the Afghanistan war in the ‘80s. In 1984, he became very famous, with
his portrait of an Afghan girl, which appeared on the cover of National
Geographic magazine.
McCurry’s romance with India is a long-standing one. He has visited
the country more than 60 times, and once said that India had taught
him to watch and wait on life. His good friend and historian William
© STEVE MCCURRY
Dalrymple has written an introductory essay for the book, where he
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 46 | SPRING 2016
notes, “This is a very different India indeed, and it is here, in the places
suspended between modernity and tradition, that most pictures in this
book were made.”
SPRING 2016
| 47 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
© STEVE MCCURRY
(From left) A dust storm in Rajasthan; and a
nomad boy in Amdo Province, Tibet
McCurry knows India intimately,
and this is visible also in many of the
other books he has published, including
South Southeast, The Imperial Way,
and Looking East. He has also worked
on a book on the Indian Railways with
travel writer Paul Theroux and recently
© STEVE MCCURRY
collaborated with him again for Deep
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 48 | SPRING 2016
South, which is about the southern
part of America.
The
work
‘India’
has
many
memorable photos. In one picture,
© STEVE MCCURRY
Art for your Floors
(Top) Harshvardhan Singh, son
of the Maharawal of Dungarpur,
at home; (Below) the legendary
Amitabh Bachchan
McCurry captures what looks like
The Carpet Cellar
a truck’s exterior decorated with
a picture of the freedom fighter
Chandra Shekhar Azad and a
“Persian Kashan -Pashmina Carpet”
quote that says, “Tu himmat kar
kyun darta hai, phir dekh khuda
kya karta hai” (Be courageous,
why do you fear, God will take
In
Dalrymple’s
© STEVE MCCURRY
care of the rest)...
words,
McCurry’s India is, above all, a
world of paradox.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 50 | SPRING 2016
1, Anand Lok, Khel Gaon Marg, Siri Fort Road, New Delhi - 110049.
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FASHIoN
Rahul Mishra’s creations and clothing cannot be
straitjacketed as just fashion design. His ingenious
attempt to revive Indian handlooms with his
thoroughly scientific approach is nothing short of
design engineering. Mishra talks to Praachi Raniwala
about his brand ethos and philosophy, and how
design can change the world.
The Science of
Design
T
here is no shortage of feathers in Rahul Mishra’s proverbial cap.
For starters, the Delhi-based designer created history when he
became the first Indian to win the prestigious International
Woolmark Prize in 2014 (whose previous winners include the likes of Yves
Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld). He is now a permanent fixture on Paris
Fashion Week’s coveted official calendar, has broken the myth that Indian
fashion is all about loud colours and kitschy designs, and his collections
have sold out at luxe international stores like Harvey Nichols in
London and Colette in Paris. And if that wasn’t enough, he has
also championed traditional Indian weaves and put them on
the international fashion map.
We catch the internationally acclaimed man of
the moment as he is on his way to catch a flight
to Ahmedabad for a work trip. “With my Paris
Fashion Week show just a month away, there is
no time to rest!” he exclaims. Mishra, who is one
of the two Indian designers who are regulars
at Paris Fashion Week (the other being Manish
Arora), doesn’t take this momentous opportunity
lightly. “When you are showing alongside the likes
of Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen, Valentino, and
Hermès, your work needs to have substance. You need
to be at par with the best in the business and there is just
no excuse for a sub-standard collection,” he says emphasising
that he doesn’t take a single garment lightly.
A sketch for a sari meant for
India Couture Week 2015
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Mishra won the International
Woolmark Prize 2014
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Highlights of Mishra’s career
2006: Debuts at the Lakmé Fashion Week, Mumbai as a part of
Though his victory exposed him to the
the Gen-Next show, where he showcases the dying handloom
international playing field, Mishra continues to
craft of Kerala, through his collection.
shine, as previously mentioned, the spotlight
2007:
on Indian artisans and weavers by celebrating
Heads to Istituto Marangoni, Milan, for a Masters in
Fashion Design, after winning a scholarship.
Indian craftsmanship and design. “Our entire
2008:
Launches his eponymous label, and showcases a
Paris Fashion Week collection was made in
collection featuring Maheshwari handlooms at the Lakmé Fashion
the villages of India!” he quips. It was his
Week, Mumbai.
education at NID, which presented design as
2009: The brand heads to the capital city for the first time with a
a problem-solving exercise, and which has
show at the India Fashion Week, New Delhi.
propelled him to empower the country’s skilled
2011: Mishra’s chanderi collection is acquired by the Victoria &
artisans and craftsmen through his work. Call
Albert Museum (V&A), London, for an exhibit.
it ethical, sustainable, or responsible fashion,
2013:
Introduces the concept of ‘reverse migration’ with his
the core intention is to interpret age-old crafts
sustainable design intervention. This encourages embroiderers
and techniques in a new language to uphold
and workers from the slums of Mumbai to move back to their craft
economies and create something unique. “We
villages and guarantees them a constant livelihood. Mishra also
call it Idea India and work with weaves and
wins the regional round of International Woolmark Prize (India &
textiles from across the county like benarasi,
Middle East) in the same year.
chanderi,
2014:
Creates history by becoming the first Indian designer
bhagalpuri, chikanari and more on a continuous
to win the prestigious International Woolmark Prize. Mishra also
basis.” But while Mishra delves deep into our
becomes part of the official calendar of the Paris Fashion Week.
2015: The V&A acquires his Woolmark Prize collection as part of
maheshwari,
khadi,
pochampalli,
tradition for inspiration, he doesn’t believe in
Mishra is trying to
revive the chintz fabric
diluting the modern relevance of his garments.
their permanent exhibit. Mishra also debuts his first ever couture
It’s not about creating craft for craft’s sake. “The
collection, at the Amazon India Couture Week 2015.
fact that we are promoting Indian textiles makes
Fashion Week
2015 in Paris
From the sleepy village of Malhausi in Uttar Pradesh to the runways
for great copy and PR, but I want women to buy
of Paris, Mishra’s meteoric rise to fame is one truly worthy of applause.
our clothes for the sheer love of the garment
Considering his unquestionable knack for the field, it’s hard to imagine
and that reason alone. Craft needs to be modern
that he did not grow up aspiring to be a part of the fashion industry. “I’d be
enough to attract attention. The trick is to look
lying if I said I grew up reading Vogue under my bed cover with a torchlight
into the past to create for the future,” he says.
every night! I graduated in physics and my father was keen that I become
His first couture collection, debuted at
a doctor or engineer. It was only after a lot of persuasion that he allowed
the Amazon India Couture Week 2015, and
me to pursue a Masters in design from National Institute of Design (NID)
showcased in Delhi earlier this year, echoed the
in Ahmedabad,” he says, looking back to the start of his journey. “But even
same sentiment. Dubbed ‘Tree of Life’, it made
then, he would always tell people I’m studying design engineering and
use of centuries old chintz textiles coupled with
not fashion design!” he laughs. If you think about it, ‘design engineering’
age-old craftsmanship to present progressive
is exactly what Mishra is doing today with his ingenious use of traditional
shapes and silhouettes that would appeal to the
weaves in contemporary formats.
multi-tasking, modern woman of today.
A case in point is his International Woolmark Prize collection in
It’s worth emphasising that Mishra believes
2014. A turning point in his career, Mishra showcased a line made
in marrying science with art. For instance, when
from lightweight Merino wool, featuring hand embroidery on sharply
quizzed about a designer who inspires him, he
tailored and sculptured clothes. To say it won rave reviews from the key
cites Jonathan Ive, Apple’s Chief Design officer.
tastemakers in the business would be an understatement. Noted fashion
“I find it inspiring to watch his keynotes. In fact,
critic Tim Blanks called it “scientific design”, while Frida Giannini, then
I revisit old videos of Steve Jobs and him to take
creative director of Gucci, was thoroughly impressed by his original and
decisions or make presentations.” He carries on,
unexpected use of wool.
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India Couture Week 2015
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“They prove how design is all about innovation.
“We may not be the most gifted
designers but we are the most passionate
ones. We are hungry for success and
almost foolish in that sense”
It’s incredible how design can lead to revolutionary technology to create
new benchmarks,” he says.
So is that his biggest strength — approaching fashion
from a fresh perspective, with a scientific bent of mind?
“My education in science definitely comes handy, but
my biggest strength is that I am a quick learner and
can adapt easily. I mean, 10 years ago, I did not
even know what fashion was all about!” He is quick
to credit his team as well. “We may not be the most
gifted designers but we are the most passionate
ones. We are hungry for success and almost foolish
in that sense,” adding that they take calls based on
excellence and design and not profit or loss.
Apple’s
Jonathan
Ive is one of
Mishra’s big
inspirations
When asked about the legacy he wishes to leave behind
as a designer, he recalls a conversation with revered fashion journalist
Suzy Menkes, in Florence recently. “She urged me to start a movement
to promote fashion with substance and lead the way for a bigger change.
Ultimately, I want to build a fashion house that creates livelihood for 1
million craftspeople. That is the real power of fashion. It can change the
world and make it a better place.” Amen.
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DISCoVER INDIA
Riverine
explorations
GANGA (GANGES)
the place where it flows out is called Gomukh
most popular with devotees. Most of the
Thundering down the icy Himalayan slopes to
or
beautiful,
activities in these towns — religious, cultural,
meandering through plains, and, finally, after
surrounded by icy peaks, Gomukh can be
social — are centred around the ghats (stone
more than 2500km, emptying into the Bay of
reached after an approximately 18km trek
steps leading down to the river), and the most
Bengal, is the holiest of the Indian rivers: some
from the town of Gangotri.
popular one in Rishikesh is the Triveni Ghat,
cow’s
mouth.
Forbiddingly
marking the confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna
of the sacred cities for Hindus like Varanasi and
It is here in the upper reaches that the
Haridwar lie along the Ganga. A dip in the holy
river flows with great force and the stretch
waters is believed to cleanse you of your sins;
between Rishikesh and Haridwar boast of
Among the most famous ghats along
From Ganga to Kaveri, many of the rivers in India have been worshipped for centuries.
many Hindus cast the ashes of the dead into
some of the most exhilarating rapids in the
the Ganga is the Dashashwamedh Ghat in
Not surprisingly, the river towns and cities today are popular destinations for
the river with the belief that this will allow the
country for white water rafting. And if battling
the world’s oldest living city, Varanasi, where
dead to ascend to heaven.
with the Grade 1-4 rapids doesn’t satisfy the
the Ganga aarti is performed in the evenings.
travellers from both India and abroad — culture vultures as well as adventure lovers.
Much like many Indian rivers, the Ganga
adrenaline junkie in you, you can also try your
Flaming torches and brass lamps moving to
is worshipped as a female form, the Goddess
hand at bungee jumping. Rishikesh is also
the sound of the clanging bells in obeisance to
Ganga. According to Hindu mythology, Lord
known as the capital of hatha yoga, and many
the river is a truly spectacular sight to behold.
Vishnu, pleased by King Bhagiratha’s piety,
scenic retreats have mushroomed along the
Varanasi has more than 2000-odd temples, the
agreed for Ganga to descend to the earth to
river, offering classes and stays. The Parmarth
most popular ones being the Kashi Vishwanath,
he great civilisations of the world — the Indus Valley, Mesopotamia, Egyptian or
cleanse Bhagiratha’s ancestors of their sins.
Niketan is probably the oldest, largest and most
Sankat Mochan and the Kalbhairav temple.
Chinese — have one common factor uniting them: they grew up on river banks.
She first passes through the coils of Lord
popular of such ashrams. Rishikesh is also the
Enjoy the vast expanse of the river on one of
By Akhila Ranganna
T
and Saraswati.
Whether it is the Indus, Tigris, Euphrates, Nile or the Huang He, these mighty
Shiva’s tangled hair, to break her fall, and
starting point for the Char Dham yatra, a holy
the many boat rides offered by operators in the
rivers have all been the cradles of the first towns, agriculture and the very growth of
then descends to the earth. The river emerges
pilgrimage to four religious cities in India, and
cities along the plains, and make sure you keep
human life. In India, rivers have another very important role to play: they have been
from the depths of the Gangotri glacier, one
sites of worship like the Neelkanth Mahadev
an eye out for the endangered, unique dolphins
objects of worship from time immemorial and considered an integral part of Hinduism.
of the biggest in the Himalayan range, and
Temple and the Trimbakeshwar Temple are
in Ganga. Any trip to the city is incomplete
GETTY IMAGES
The Ganga in Varanasi, one
of the world’s oldest cities
Psi, an incredibly tasting wine from Pingus
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GETTY IMAGES
Japan’s Prime Minister Shinzo Abe (centre L) and India’s Prime
Minister Narendra Modi pray during the evening aarti ritual on
the banks of Ganga, at Varanasi, on December 12, 2015
The stretch between Rishikesh and Haridwar in Uttarakhand boasts of some
of the most exhilarating rapids in the country for white water rafting
without sampling its unique street-food like kachori-sabji (puffed bread
(Coorg). A holy and scenic area, a tank marks the origin of the river and
made of pulses, served with vegetables) aloo tikkis (potato cutlets), jalebis
two temples. Devotees congregate in large numbers to take a dip in the
(sweet cake deep fried in oil) and the famous Banarasi paan (betel leaf
holy waters in the month of october, believing it will absolve them of
stuffed with areca nuts and a variety of mouth fresheners), and shopping
their sins. A little further away is Bhagamandala, which marks the famous
for the famous Banaras silk sarees and ornate jewellery in areas like
confluence or sangam of Kaveri, Kannike and the mythical Sujyoti —
Vishwanath Lane and Thatheri Bazar, among others.
again an important dipping spot for devotees — with temples like the
Sri Bhagandeshwara Temple close by. Angling is very popular along the
KAVERI (CAUVERY)
Kaveri and one of the best places to try and catch the famous game-fish
Perhaps the most revered river in South India, the Kaveri traverses
Mahseer is at Dubare. The elephant camp at Dubare is also a very popular
through the states of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu descending the Eastern
destination with adults and children alike with their elephant rides and
Ghats in a series of falls, before it reaches the Bay of Bengal. Much like the
elephant feeding. But perhaps the most famous wildlife attraction in the
Ganga, the fertile Kaveri has nourished many great dynasties — Chola,
area is the Nagarhole National Park. Straddling the Kodagu and Mysore
Chalukya, and Wodeyar. She is worshipped as the Goddess Kaveri Amman
districts, this tiger reserve, situated on the banks of the river Kabini (a
in several shrines along the river. According to one legend, Lord Brahma
tributary of the Kaveri), is a very popular wildlife getaway, with verdant
was so pleased with the devotion of sage Kavera, that he gave him his
forests, beautiful waters and a sizeable population of elephants, tigers
daughter Lopamudra, as his own child, Kaveri. Keen that her father should
and Indian bison. Abbey Falls, near Madikeri, is one of the most popular
live prosperously in a land of plenty, Kaveri prayed to Brahma to be
falls in the upper reaches of the Kaveri. The road to the falls winds
transformed into a nourishing and holy river and her wish was granted.
through the coffee and cardamom plantations the Kodagu district is
The Kaveri originates in Talakaveri in the Brahmagiri hill in Kodagu
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world-renowned for.
| 60 | SPRING 2016
But the most impressive waterfalls on the Kaveri are the
with his devotion, diverted the waters of the Ganga, creating the Godavari;
Shivanasamudra Falls, located in the town of Shivanasamudra, in
as the river flowed over the cow, it brought it back to life. There is a
Mandya district. These multiple waterfalls make for spectacular viewing
temple dedicated to Godavari in the holy city of Nashik, the Shree Ganga
especially during the monsoons. And the best place to enjoy the lush
Godavari temple. It opens its doors only once in 12 years to coincide with
and captivating greenery that often surrounds the Kaveri in this area is
the famous Kumbh Mela that is held in Nashik every 12 years. Easily the
at Bheemeshwari. Walk on the wild side and camp on the banks of the
largest in the world in terms of numbers, millions of Hindu pilgrims gather
river or stay in many of the surrounding resorts. Trek or cycle through
along the banks of the sacred river to bathe in it during the mela. It is held
the forests, brave the fast Kaveri currents while river rafting or kayaking,
periodically in one of four cities by rotation — Haridwar, Nashik, Ujjain and
or opt for the more placid coracle rides. Bheemeshwari is also know as
Allahabad. Near Nashik, in Trimbakeshwara is the famous Trimabakeshwar
a place for bird-watching. But the best place to spot birds like the ibis,
temple dedicated to Lord Shiva that is more than 250 years old. Nashik
a variety of storks, and cormorants among others along the Kaveri is at
is also home to several vineyards, the most popular being the Sula
the Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary. You can sample a slice of history in
Vineyards, where you can learn about wine making, enjoy several tasting
the Mandya district in Srirangapatna, the capital of Mysore under Haider
sessions and even opt to stay for a night.
Ali and Tipu Sultan. The town is enclosed by the Kaveri river and some
The diverse flora and fauna that abound on the river banks can
of its beautifully preserved historical monuments include Tipu Sultan’s
best be enjoyed by relaxing boat rides on the river. Papi Hills, near
summer palace and the ancient temple dedicated to Sri Ranganatha
Rajahmundry, offer some of the most scenic rides along the Godavari,
Swamy (incarnation of Lord Vishnu).
along with beautiful camping sites and treks. Nearby cities like Warangal
A northern trail
The Leela Palace New Delhi, in Chanakyapuri,
is one of the best hotels in the capital
D
in Telangana, not only abound in scenic beauty with places like Pakhal
GODAVARI
Lake, Eturnagaram Wildlife sanctuary (through which the Godavari
The second-longest river in India, the Godavari, flows through the states
flows) or Ramappa Lake, they also has historical and religious sites like
of Maharashtra, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh, before it forms one of the
elhi is a good base for covering the river destinations Rishikesh and
The Presidential Suite at The Leela Palace New Delhi comes with
Haridwar, and The Leela Palace New Delhi, in Chanakyapuri, one
24-hour butler service, Rolls Royce transfers, private study, dining room,
of the best hotels in the capital to stay at; Delhi-Rishikesh-Badrinath-
gymnasium, and a walk-in wardrobe. The suites and rooms provide
the Warangal fort, with the remains of the Swayambhu temple in the
Haridwar-Delhi is an itinerary we recommend for travellers wishing to get
unmatched comfort with their expansive, lavish spaces, private plunge
largest river basins in India as it empties into the Bay of Bengal. Considered
centre, and Thousand Pillar temple, with its ornate Kakatiya-dynasty style
a flavour of the history and culture of the region in less than a week’s time.
pools and Jacuzzis. Its restaurants include Le Cirque, the first Asian
one of the holiest rivers, there are several temples along its banks, like the
architecture and the ancient Bhadrakali Temple.
The property is located strategically: 10 minutes from India Gate and
outpost of the iconic French-Italian New York restaurant, and MEGU, which
Lord Rama temple at Bhadrachalam; the holy festival of Pushkaram is held
NARMADA
on its banks every 12 years.
Legend has it that the Godavari was created to help sage Gautama
Coursing through the heart of central India in Madhya Pradesh, the
atone for his sin of killing a cow. He prayed to Lord Shiva, who, pleased
Narmada is only one of three major rivers in peninsular India that flows
the General Secretariat; 20 minutes from the Red Fort, Jama Masjid and
serves fine Japanese cuisine.
Chandni Chowk.
For reservations, call 1 800 1031 444 (Toll free)
from east to west, in its journey to the Arabian Sea. It finds mention in
several ancient texts like the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. Legend has
Migratory birds ibis on rock in Ranganathittu
Bird Sanctuary at mysore, Karnataka, India
it that Lord Shiva once meditated so deeply that he started perspiring
profusely. His sweat collected in a tank and started flowing out as the river
Narmada. The religious importance of the river is best illustrated in the
holy parikrama or circumambulation of the river undertaken by devotees,
walking a distance of more than 2500km from Bharuch in Gujarat, to
the source of the river — Amarkantak in the Amarkantak hills in Madhya
Pradesh — and back along the opposite bank. Along the Narmada are
are the Narmada Udgam temple in Amarkantak, the omkareshwar and
Maheshwar temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, along with several ghats that
are frequented by devotees.
Bhedaghat, located in Jabalpur district, is home to the famous
marble rock gorges carved out by the flowing river that stretch for about
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Paintings in the caves of
Bhimbetka, located in a
dyke of the Narmada valley
SPRING 2016
Close by are the Dhuandhar (smoke flow) falls; the 10m high falls create
CORBIS
CORBIS
3km, which can be viewed by cable car or by boats traversing the river.
a captivating mist as they fall. Jabalpur, the main city of the district, is
described as the cultural capital of the state with many English, Hindi
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GETTY IMAGES
The Brahmaputra at
Ujanbazar Ghat, in Guwahati
and Urdu writers, publishers and printers originating from the state. The
Hindu devotees at bathing ghats on the
Godavari River during the Khumb Mela.
Chausath Yogini Temple is the most popular temple in the city. other
popular attractions include the Madan Mahal Fort, the Balancing Rocks
and the Rani Durgavati museum. Around 130km from Jabalpur is one
of one of India’s most famous wildlife sanctuaries, the Kanha National
Park. Situated on the banks of the Narmada, with its Royal Bengal Tigers,
leopards, lush greenery and jagged ravines, it served as an inspiration for
Rudyard Kipling’s, The Jungle Book.
About 45km from the capital city of Bhopal, located in a dyke of the
Narmada, are the Bhimbetka caves. With its vivid rock paintings created
as far back as 15,000 years ago, these caves are considered as one of the
earliest centres of human habitation in India.
BRAHMAPUTRA
one of those rare Indian rivers that is not worshipped as a female form,
but a male form, Brahmaputra literally translates into ‘Son of Lord Brahma’.
originating in the mighty Himalayas in Tibet, the river flows through the
North-Eastern part of India before entering Bangladesh to form the mighty
Ganga-Brahmaputra delta, ultimately emptying into the Bay of Bengal.
Brahmaputra also boasts of several rapids that offer exhilarating
white water rafting spots. But the most famous attraction on its banks
is the Kaziranga National Park. This World Heritage Site straddles two
GETTY IMAGES
districts in the state of Assam and its most famous resident is the one-
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horned rhinoceros. The densely forested area is also home to a sizeable
population of elephants, wild water buffalo, tigers, swamp deer and is also
a very popular birding area.
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THE GOOD LIFE
Living it up in
I
t’s not been that long since I landed in New York and checked into my
hotel. The flight took 16 hours straight, and at times it felt like longer,
because of the rather shoddy service. I can almost feel jet lag gaining
New York
on me. But, it’s okay; I know, I’ll hold out for a little while, because I am
at the Porter House, bang in the centre of Columbus Circle. It’s nice and
sunny outside, and I can sense Central Park out there, not too far away.
Life’s good, especially because I’ve ordered a dry-aged steak.
Porter House is a very New York thing, one of those chophouses
that are as NY as a bistro is to Paris. It’s unpretentious, spacious, bright,
While in the Big Apple for test driving the new BMW 7 Series,
and also serves seafood. You don’t come here to stare at two peas and
Shahrukh Elavia also got a taste of what’s it like to be a
a pod on your plate; you come here to eat robust, wholesome food. But,
what is dry-aged? Simply put, dry-aged beef is meat that is dried in a
millionaire in the city — flying in a chopper to dining at top
temperature-controlled storehouse, and Porter House does it exceedingly
restaurants to hitting the race track at an exclusive motor club.
well. Drying — and ageing — does to meat what years in a cellar does to
wine. It makes it better. In the case of beef, it becomes tender and more
flavourful. There is a science to it, of course. When you dry-age beef, it
loses most of its water content but not its flavour, and since the connective
tissue breaks down, the meat becomes tenderer. And, I experienced all
of this in a single bite of my steak. My steak was priced at around $60,
if I remember right, and if I were on my own, I would have preferred to have
a hot dog outside Central Park, but I’m in New York on the invitation of
BMW. The German carmaker is launching the latest edition of its flagship
Porter House is known
for its dry-aged beef
limo, the 7 Series, and it wants to simulate the lives of the pretty rich and
GETTY IMAGES
fairly famous in New York. Which is why, the hotel is posh and reminds of
one of the Leelas I have stayed at, and all these fancy lunches and dinners
— more on that soon.
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The new 7 Series is a fancy car, and then some. It is partly made of
carbon fibre and it can attain significant velocities. And, there’s so much
insular little towns compared to the Big Apple.
technology in it, I suppose it could even orbit Mars. It has an adaptive
I skip breakfast the next morning, because we have an early lunch at
mode, borrowed from Rolls-Royces (BMW owns RR), that influences the
the Jean Georges. Jean Georges Vongerichten, a man inspired by the food
suspension, the steering and the 8-speed transmission and constantly
of south East Asia, is no stranger to Michelin stars. His bio on his website
alters the settings to suit the road and style of driving. It has laser
states that his signature cuisine “abandons the traditional use of meat
headlights, and you won’t even notice those louvers on the grill that
stocks and creams and instead features the intense flavours and textures
silently open to draw more air into the engine bay. And, even if you are
from vegetable juices, fruit essences, light broths and herbal vinaigrettes.”
not a car enthusiast, you’ll very much dig the car’s optional display key
And that “his favourite meals are dished from a street cart in Thailand”. All
that looks like it’s landed from outer space, and the gesture control that
of which is mostly true. The famous chef is not around at the eponymous
allows you to, for example, spin your index finger in the air to control the
restaurant, but his philosophy permeates the food that is served. I had
volume of the car’s sound system.
some crab dumplings, Parmesan-crusted organic chicken and watercress
So, this is the car I’m going to drive tomorrow, around a little town
The new 7 series has an ‘Adaptive Mode’, borrowed
from Rolls Royces, and which makes driving safer
New York: that this is the capital of the world. London and Paris seem like
ravioli before boarding my chopper.
near Monticello, which has its own race track that is frequented by New
It was a hazy day, but the verticality of Manhattan is still astounding.
York’s rich enthusiasts. And, to get there, we are not going to drive. We are
And, looking at, and about New York’s skyline, I’m reminded of what the
taking a chopper to Monticello, just like some lucky people in NY do every
author Ayn Rand once said about the city: “I would give the greatest
time they feel like putting some pedal to metal.
sunset in the world for one sight of New York’s skyline. Particularly when
It is almost autumn in New York, and soon it will be winter, which, and
one can’t see the details. Just the shapes. The shapes and the thought that
here’s a factoid, is harsher than Iceland’s, or more precisely, Reykjavik’s.
made them. The sky over New York and the will of man, made visible.”
But right now, the sun is still shining, and Times Square is abuzz as it
Suits the individualistic city to the T.
always is, with tourists, hipsters and buskers. I can hear the cadences of
The chopper takes about an hour and some to get us to Monticello,
a hundred different tongues, and I feel what I always feel when I am in
and it is a rich little town. There are picket fences, posh mansions, diners
The restaurant Jean Georges serves
food inspired by Southeast Asia
The robust 7 series is
partly made of carbon fibre
The writer flew in a chopper
from New York to Monticello
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SNAPSHOT
Eleven Madison Park was ranked
fifth in the S.Pellegrino World’s 50
Best Restaurants list in 2015
The optional two-seat executive lounge package makes you feel like
an Egyptian Pharaoh surveying the construction of the Pyramids
and a few fat rednecks. The roads that pass through Monticello are long
highness has a problem with parking in tight spaces. The 7 Series is
and straight, but the ones at the race track are curvy and promise a lot of
a huge car, but even in the twisty confines of the track, it performs
fun. The Monticello Motor Club is a private racetrack, and its 4.1 miles of
commendably. There is no body roll, and I reckon both passengers and
race-grade asphalt is for the express enjoyment of its members and for
driver would have a fairly comfortable time if they ever choose to hurl this
people who can afford to book it for a couple of hours, or an entire day
1.5 crore missile around a race track. The Monticello Motor Club is ace if
as the case may be. Before I hit the track, I’m chauffeur-driven around
you are just into driving fast, but I am not too happy with the food there.
Monticello in the 7 Series, and the plushness of the car becomes even
The desserts are too sweet and the food, American-Italian, too heavy. So,
more apparent when you are sitting in the rear.
I’m looking forward to evening, because that is when we head to Eleven
The optional two-seat executive lounge package makes you
Wings of fantasy
Madison Park.
feel like an Egyptian Pharaoh surveying the construction of the
Eleven Madison Park is ranked fifth in the S.Pellegrino World’s
Pyramids. Actually, one who likes to relax with his feet stretched out. It
50 Best Restaurants list in 2015, and it is housed in a graceful art
is a position that is achieved by at the press of a button, which slides
deco building with tall ceilings and, of course, a view of Madison Park.
the front passenger seat all the way forward and then put forth an
It was a 11-course dinner, and it will be tough to describe all of the
little ottoman on which to rest his soft, well-manicured feet. Other
stuff that I ate there. So, let me point out the highlights of what was an
stuff that will please a new 7 owner? A touchscreen-equipped iDrive;
epic dinner: the garden pea and mint lollipop (amuse bouche); the goat
a 7-inch Samsung tablet that pretty much does what the chauffeur can
milk butter; seared halibut with smoked spring garlic and the poached
do at the front except, of course, drive the car; an inductive charging slot
Nova Scotia lobster.
T
he opulent Leela Palace Chennai’s lobby is adorned with an
particularly those related to relationships between a man and a
impressive curated art collection. Under the staircase is a
woman.” Every part of the installation, which is rich in beautiful
striking installation called ‘Flying Dream’, by renowned artist
images, represents a different dream, a different emotion — happiness,
in the storage compartment at the front; and, should the chauffeur ever
I have an early morning flight to SFO tomorrow. Hopefully, the
Paresh Maity. The winged woman in this oil and fibre glass installation
intimacy, loss, and more. Maiti’s artworks are part of several acclaimed
display the temerity to take a day off, a 360 degree parking system
Business Class seating and service will match up to the two days of
symbolises human fantasies. Says the Delhi-based artist on this work,
museums, including the National Gallery of Modern Art and the
delivers an excellent rendition of the surroundings. Just perfect if his
decadence in NY.
“I explore the dreams that arise within us and make up our desires,
British Museum.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
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SPRING 2016
| 71 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
THE LEELA EXPERIENCES
D
Rejuvenating
retreats in
Udaipur
otted by the imposing hues of the Aravalli hills and numerous lakes,
your day on a spiritual note, in the magical environment of a 150-year-old
Udaipur is a gorgeous city. The crown jewel of Lake Pichola is The
Shiva temple.
Leela Palace, its architecture evoking grandeur and opulence of the times
The Leela Palace Udaipur
is offering several
of the Mewar. All the rooms and suites offer a view of the beautiful lake,
Day 2
and the hotel houses two opulent restaurants and a chic lounge and bar.
Wake up early for a morning ritual involving an hour of private yoga/
Another of the resort’s attractions is the ESPA, an award-winning
meditation session at the Guava Garden/yoga studio and participate in
packages combining spa
tented luxury spa. Each bespoke treatment tent here boasts of opulent
a ceremony at the aforesaid Lord Shiva temple. In the evening, you can
treatments at its ESPA
tekri work inside the canopy, and is adorned with linens and silk.
choose between two hours of ESPA Total Body Care with hot stones, or the
with explorations of the
city’s history.
As part of its special offerings, The Leela Palace Udaipur has
Ayurvedic Abhyanga treatment. The scenic beauty of Udaipur deserves
crafted three wellness-focused programs to rejuvenate your body and
some attention, so end your day on a beautiful boat cruise with spa
soul — programs that are a mix of ESPA massage treatments and travel
mocktails at Lake Pichola.
experiences that give you a veritable flavour of the city.
Day 3
SOUL CONNECT
Much like Day 2, you begin with the early morning ritual and set in to
A 2 night / 3 day journey for the harmony of mind, body, and soul
experience the 90-minute ESPA Aromatherapy massage, or the 30-minute
salt scrub with the 60-minute Aromatherapy massage.
Day 1
You begin the journey with an orientation of the tekri-lined tents of
Summer Rates:
the spa and then relax with an hour of Abhyanga treatment. Abhyanga
16th April 2016 - 30th September 2016
is a form of Ayurvedic medicine that involves a body massage with
Single occupancy: INR 89,250 | Double occupancy: INR 1, 26, 000
large amounts of warm oil, often pre-medicated with herbs for specific
Winter Rates up to 15th April
conditions. The 30-minute Regenerating & Firming Eye treatment follows.
Single occupancy: INR 1, 05, 000 | Double occupancy: INR 1, 42, 000
Meet the astrologer next, for a personal session of future-telling, and end
1st October 2015 – 15th April 2016
At ESPA, you can enjoy two hours of Total Body Care with hot stones along with other unique therapies
ThE LEELA MAgAzinE
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Experience ESPA’s
90-minute aromatherapy
massage, or the
30-minute salt scrub to
soothe your senses
the Nathdwara temple, legend has it that the image of Lord Krishna was
Winter Rates:
being transferred to a safer place from Vrindavan to protect it from the
Up to 15th April 2016
destructive wrath of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. When it reached
Single occupancy: INR 2, 15, 000 | Double occupancy: INR 2, 80, 000
this spot in Udaipur, the bullock cart’s wheels sank axel deep in mud and
Summer Rates:
refused to move further. The temple was built right there. Jagdish temple
16th April 2016 - 30th September 2016
is another big attraction in Udaipur, acclaimed for its spiritual healing as
Single occupancy: INR 1, 78, 500 | Double occupancy: INR 2, 46, 750
well as its architecture and intricate artwork on walls.
Once back to the hotel, head for the perfect spa experience. Loosen
SENSES OF UDAIPUR
yourself with the 90-minute ESPA Aromatherapy massage or the 30
A 6 night / 7 day journey, with intensive treatments, visits to spiritual
-minute salt scrub with the 60-minute Aromatherapy massage.
abodes, local heritage sights, yoga and meditation.
Day 4
Day 1
On the fourth day, after the early morning ritual, you can opt for the Leela
Same as Day 1 in the soul connect package.
Signature Royal Princess spa treatment, for women, or the Knights of
Day 2
Rajasthan spa treatment, for men.
After the morning ritual, you can choose between the 120-minute ESPA
SOJOURN INTO SELF
Gallery houses rare crystals and exquisite stone-studded furniture owned
A 4 night / 5 day journey involving Ayurvedic treatments, yoga, meditation
by the maharajas. While your eyes twinkle at the sight, enter the grand
and visits to spiritual abodes and heritage sights.
Durbar Hall, decorated with precious stones, where the kings had their
Day 5
Ayurvedic Abhyanga or the 120-minute ESPA Total Body Care with hot
After the morning ritual, pamper yourself with the 60-minute ESPA facial
stones later in the morning. Before you get on a boat cruise for mocktails
or massage.
and watching the sunset, you can meet the astrologer.
get on the beautiful boat cruise to
explore the picturesque Lake Pichola
while sipping delicious mocktails
formal and informal meetings.
Day 1
Once you return to the hotel, you can recharge yourself with the
120-minute ESPA Ayurvedic Abhyanga treatment or ESPA Total Body Care
Same as Day 1 in the Soul Connect package.
with hot stones. Later that evening,
Day 2
From here, you begin your morning
read your stars at a session with the
Step out to explore Udaipur and its
glittering attractions like The City Palace,
Crystal gallery and Durbar hall
astrologer and soon after, saunter
ritual of waking up early for the
away to the boat cruise. For the
60-minute private yoga/meditation
perfect end to your fabled day, watch
session
Garden/
the sun go down, with spa mocktails,
traditional
as your boat cruises the Lake Pichola.
yoga
at
studio
the
and
Guava
a
ritual ceremony at the said Shiva
Day 3
attractions, like The City Palace,
This day is about awakening your
Crystal Gallery and Durbar Hall; step
spiritual self as you get to visit the
out to explore the beautiful city (and
famous temples of Eklingji, Nagda,
ride a camel!) accompanied by a
Nathdwara and Jagdish, accompanied
guide. City Palace, built over a period
by a personal guide. Eklingji was the
of 400 years, is the largest of its type
ruling deity of Mewar, worshipped
gETTy iMAgES
temple. Udaipur has many glittering
in the state, and is a Rajasthani and
Mughal architecture marvel. Crystal
ThE LEELA MAgAzinE
| 74 | SPring 2016
by the kings, and is now worshipped
by the villagers all year round. At
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| 75 | ThE LEELA MAgAzinE
LAUNCHPAD
Property Check
Day 3
After the morning ritual, visit the famous Ranakpur temple and trek up
the historic Kumbhalgarh fort. This fort is a world heritage site and was
The Leela Group presents The Leela Ambience Convention Hotel, Delhi with a
gETTy iMAgES
the birthplace of Maharana Pratap, the great king and warrior of Mewar.
The trek will be exhausting, but the spectacular view of the city will
make it more than worth it. After the dusty trek, reach the hotel for the
variety of restaurants, and high-tech facilities for business travellers. The property
boasts one of the largest convention and wedding venues in India.
The grand Durbar hall, decorated with precious stones,
where the kings had their formal and informal meetings.
90-minute ESPA Aromatherapy massage or the 30-minute salt scrub with
the 60-minute Aromatherapy massage. Then dip into a luxurious, exotic
Day 5
bath laid out in your room.
After the early morning ritual, visit The City Palace, Crystal Gallery and
Day 4
Durbar Hall, accompanied by a guide, and ride a camel. Later, trek up the
Experience the much-renowned 4-hour Leela Signature Royal Princess
famous Karni Mata Temple (2 hours). Karni Mata is worshipped as the
spa treatment, for women, or Knights of Rajasthan spa treatment, for men,
incarnation of Goddess Durga in Rajasthan. The temple is perched on
after the yoga/meditation and chanting ritual in the morning.
top of a hill and offers a panoramic view of Lake Palace, Sajjangarh Fort
and Doodh Talai Park. Once back indoors, relax with the 90-minute ESPA
(muscle soother / energy enhancer) massage in the evening and enjoy spa
The Karni Matal temple is perched on top of a hill
that offers a panoramic view of Lake Pichola
mocktails at the Haveli Spa Terrace.
Day 6
After the early morning ritual, pamper yourself with the 60-minute ESPA
facial or massage.
The Leela Ambience Convention hotel, Delhi
Day 7
T
After the morning ritual, enjoy a healthy breakfast laid by the poolside.
Mei Kun, the hotel’s Pan Asian restaurant
he Leela Ambience Convention Hotel, Delhi has everything in it to
excitement with live preparations of tandoors, tawas, handis and parats. It
become one of the most sought-after luxury properties in the capital.
is the perfect place for opulent Indian dining.
You can also be part of the daily Pichola aarti temple ritual at the
The high-tech interiors include triple play technology, bedside control of
Guava Garden, overlooking the lake, at 6:30 pm.
lights, interactive TVs and electronic safes in each of the 480 suites and
Mei Kun - Pan Asian Restaurant
Winter Rates:
rooms. An ideal place for business travellers, the hotel has enhanced its
This place is all about Asian multi cuisine. It rustles up delicious and
Up to 15th April 2016
luxury quotient with outdoor party lawns, high-end cars on hire, conference
authentic South East Asian flavours and has a live grill that prepares
Single occupancy: INR 3, 05, 000 | Double occupancy: INR 3, 90, 000
and meeting facilities and in-room bars. The Leela Ambience Convention
exotic items.
Summer Rates:
Hotel has an enviable location, in close proximity to Delhi’s most famous
16th April 2016 - 30th September 2016
places of interest, including Connaught Place and Hauz Khas Village; Agra
Cherry Bar
Single occupancy: INR 2, 46, 750 | Double occupancy: INR 3, 41, 250
and the hills of north India are easily accessible as well.
A chic place to unwind and enjoy relaxed evenings. It is that uber cool
One of the hotel’s charms is the variety of restaurants, offering wide
Terms and Conditions
•
•
•
gETTy iMAgES
•
ThE LEELA MAgAzinE
•
hangout lounge, especially for parties.
array of cuisines, from Italian to Pan Asian.
The above rates are applicable for stay in the Grand Heritage Lake View
The grand Sapphire Ballroom
The hotel also has the Grand Sapphire
room and include taxes, daily breakfast and experiences mentioned in
Café Knosh
the itinerary. Rates are valid up to April 15, 2016.
Known for gourmet all-day dining, this
an
To upgrade to a Grand Heritage Lake View room with balcony, an
restaurant serves exotic Mediterranean and
swimming pool and a yoga deck. Shanaya,
additional charge of INR 3,000 will be levied per night.
Indian delicacies. There’s an elaborate a-la-
the luxurious spa will pamper you with
Spa cuisine can be provided as an option for all dining experiences at
carte menu, along with an exhaustive buffet
Asian and European therapies, besides
an additional charge.
for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
offering healing Ayurvedic treatments.
Ballroom, a state-of-the-art fitness centre,
outdoor,
temperature-controlled
Body scrubs, wraps, steam and sauna
All treatments will be at the Lakeside Luxury ESPA Tents with a private
relaxation room and a plunge pool.
Dilli 32
bath, hammam treatment, Ice fountain
Please call your relationship manager/travel partner to book additional
The restaurant salutes the spirit of Awadhi
experience — a visit to the spa is a must for
nights and/or to book a higher category room
and Mughal cuisine, the chefs creating
guests staying at the hotel.
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JET SET GO
The Royal Club Lounge, The Leela Mumbai
What makes you come back to
What do you look for while choosing a hotel
The Leela Mumbai?
during a business trip?
The personal attention the staff pays to details,
I look for comfort and the ease with which I can get to
the overall ambience of the place, and ,of course, the
the hotel, especially after a long journey, since most
hospitality with which the Leela hotels are
international flights from the West arrive around midnight.
traditionally associated.
One of the main advantages of The Leela Mumbai is that
it is just five minutes away from the airport. While staying
What features of the hotel do you like the most?
The Royal Club, the hotel gym and the spa — they allow
me to relax and get over my jet lag. This may sound
strange, but when I am at the hotel, I often go look at
two unusual trees on either side of the main entrance.
Dr. Kamal Bawa
President of ATREE (Ashoka Trust for
Research in Ecology and
the Environment)
at The Leela Mumbai, I am often in bed 30 minutes after
arrival, and ready for a full set of meetings in the morning.
Any memorable anecdote you’d like
to share?
They are called cannonball trees because their fruits
My close friend stayed at the hotel once. I could not meet
resemble cannonballs. These trees almost always flower
him upon his arrival since he arrived at the hotel at 1.00
and the flowers bloom in long inflorescences at the base
AM, but the next day, at breakfast, I asked him if he had
of its main trunk. Cannonball trees were introduced to
any problems while checking in. He said with irony that
India from Guyana, but, interestingly, the flowers are
he was “disappointed” because he was welcomed by only
used as offerings in Indian temples because they have
half a dozen or so people! Courteous and alert staff is one
parts that resemble the hood over Lord Shiva’s head.
of the hallmarks of the hotel.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 78 | SPRING 2016
Chef’s Corner
OeNOphILIA
CheF’S CORNeR
Kayomarz
Bharucha
Fine wines:
Truth versus Hype
The Leela Goa Executive Chef
tells us about the distinguishing
aspects of Goan cuisine, and
gives a cooking tip
What are the signature dishes at The Leela Goa?
What’s running a kitchen like?
At The Restaurant, the property’s multi cuisine outlet, the
Running a kitchen has a lot to do with time management,
courgette envelopes filled with mushroom and ricotta
people skills, creativity, and irritations. To run a kitchen,
and the honey mustard glazed salmon with basil crushed
one must have the diplomacy of an envoy, the patience of a
potato, salmon caviar are very well received. At the Riverside
parent, the instructing skills of a teacher and the planning of
restaurant, the two indisputable signature dishes are squid ink
a tactician. One has to interact with different guests, different
angel hair pasta with seafood and the braised New Zealand
expectations, different tastes and needs. There are many
lamb shank with saffron risotto and gremolata.
lovely people one meets and it is always a pleasure to give
them what they want.
What should vegetarians eat at the hotel?
Separate the legitimate ones
from the posers.
I
have often been invited to wine
achieved ‘blue chip’ status —
tasting sessions in Mumbai
Grand Cru clarets and Burgundies
There are many choices for vegetarians. In fact, we have many
Share one cooking tip with us
Jain guests, who have never found a dearth of variety; and
To get beautifully pink and tasty prawns for a salad, boil water
special requests are always met with a smile. In our hotel, we
with leeks, celery, bay leaf and lemon. Add the unpeeled
they will be serving ‘fine wine’.
have a little vegetable patch from which we pick up some of
prawns and simmer for a couple of minutes. Remove them and
‘Fine Wine’ and ‘gourmet cuisine’,
is a growing commodity, and
our requirements of fresh seasonal herbs and vegetables.
soak them in ice cold water to stop them from cooking further
one of them reads, making an
because
and going rubbery. Later peel and devein them. By cooking
enthusiast like me excited. Where
market, producers are prone to
before peeling their shells, they become more flavourful.
could the wine come from?
exaggerate the status of their
When did you decide to become a chef?
are classic examples.
with an elaborate invite declaring
For me, it wasn’t ‘I-always-wanted-to-be-a-chef’
Burgundy,
tirade and so the decision was not like writing on
As my mind races to the various
the wall. Circumstances and accepting turns on the
possibilities, I read on, only to be
journey have led me down this way.
shockingly disappointed that the
Napa,
Wine
Champagne?
in
of
today’s
this
world
expanding
wines for marketing reasons.
Aishwarya Nair
Food & wine merchandising,
The Leela palaces, hotels
and Resorts
Therefore, to avoid being fooled
by this process, we need to
evaluate the house where the
wine is produced and make
wine is actually a local one. The
What is the weirdest dish you’ve tasted?
phrase “fine” has obviously been
regulated process allows for the
sure that we do a bit of research
Many years ago, in Singapore, I was served rojak
used by the marketing associate
winemakers to justify their brand
about the brand history and its
salad. The pungent taste of the fermented shrimp
appointed to promote the event.
building and price.
vinification
paste used in the sauce was so overpowering that
I had to concede defeat and didn’t finish the dish.
methods.
Another
Wall
tip is to check the vintage by
you wonder? Well, for starters,
Street Journal, the term “fine
climate ratings for each year, as
it
According
So what is a ‘fine wine’,
to
the
wine” is generally reserved for
they can provide us with an idea
What’s special about Goan flavours?
stance; rather it means a wine
exceptional
Goan food has rich flavours and aromas. The
produced by a good producer
world’s
vindaloo, balchao, rechado, ambot tik masalas have
under strict legal requirements
highest quality grapes and the
nominated by each country, in
most
their very own appellation. This
Over a period of years, they’ve
Tigerprawns
and scallops
the common base of toddy vinegar and dry red
chilli, yet, they taste so different from each other.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 80 | SPRING 2016
is
not
ordinary,
by
SPRING 2016
any
from
the
of optimal growing conditions for
vineyards,
the
grapes within the region.
wines
best
acclaimed
| 81 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
winemakers.
All in all, enjoy your specially
selected bottle of wine with the
best of food and great company.
EVENTS
ACCOLADES
A noble cause
T
Dynamic duo
he Leela Palace New Delhi, in Chanakyapuri,
hosted Sarah the Duchess of York for a grand gala
F
ood writer and expert Sourish
Bhattacharya, who runs the blog
charity. The evening brought together scores of fund
‘Indian Restaurant Spy’, announced
raising institutions of noble stature, and showcased
the second edition of his Gurgaon
Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) activities of a
Food Awards this year. The Leela
multitude of corporations.
Ambience Gurgaon’s Michel
Koopman’s incomparable efficiency
The evening featured Bollywood stars, sportsmen,
union ministers, aside from corporate heads. The
won him the ‘Manager of the Year’
duchess of York, who is also an author, producer
award, besting nominees from
and a global advocate for women and children,
several 5-star hotels. The hotel’s
was accompanied by Nina Pillai, celebrity collector,
Pablo Morales Melendrez, whose
curator and Chairperson of Triveda Fine Arts, fashion
scrumptious macaroons and assorted
designer Rohit Bal, and Asharaje Gaekwad, a member
desserts are popular far and wide,
of the Vadodara royal family.
was awarded as the ‘Pastry Chef of
the Year’ by Bhattacharya.
(Third from left) Michel Koopman,
General Manager, The Leela Ambience
Gurgaon, and (extreme right) Pablo
Morales Melendrez, Executive Pastry
Chef, The Leela Ambience Gurgaon
Sarah the Duchess of York with fashion designer
Rohit Bal at The Leela Palace New Delhi
GUEST SPEAK
Startup nation
Duchess of York
President of The Republic of
Mauritius
Kailash Purryag
Jacqueline Fernandez
Actor
TV Producer and Director
The Leela Palace
New Delhi
The Leela Mumbai
The Leela Ambience
Gurgaon
The Leela Palace
Udaipur
The Leela Ambience
Gurgaon
“Always have an
amazing stay here.”
“The most
wonderful hotel
in the most
wonderful place.”
“A very homely
and comfortable
stay at The Leela.
Wish to visit again
in near future.”
Sarah Ferguson
T
he Jio Economic Times’ startup awards were held at The Leela
of Snapdeal joined the celebrations, along with the heirs to Ambani
Palace Hotel Bengaluru. Four hundred guests, including top
and Premji.
business leaders and bankers, thronged the majestic ballroom. The
The awards showed how India is making way for a new era led by
glittery evening was described by an investor as the “the Oscars of our
employees-turned-entrepreneurs, who are nestling big dreams. The
industry”. Karnataka Chief Minister Siddaramaiah, Snapchat co-founder
awards had eight categories and the taxi app, Ola won the ‘Startup of
Evan Spiegel, Pete Lau of smartphone maker OnePlus, and Kunal Bahl
the Year’ award.
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
| 82 | SPRING 2016
“I have never seen
service or comfort
like that of The
Leela Palace in
Delhi. I consider it
my new home
away from home.”
“This must be the third
time that I have been
staying here over the
last year. I must say
that the welcome,
the service, and the
courtesy of the staff
have been excellent
as usual.”
SPRING 2016
| 83 | THE LEELA MAGAZINE
Michael Trim
Hamid Karzai
Former Afghanistan
President
PERSPECTIVE
The flavours of India
Emily Menon, an Australian living in Mumbai since 2007, and founder of Innovaid Advisory
Services, talks about her love for the food and chaos here.
M
y life has completely transformed
in India. In Australia, I lived in
towns with only 30 to 100 people. I
now live in a city that has the same
population as all of Australia! Many
things are the opposite of how we
would do them in Australia, but having
been here for so long, I have come to
believe that there is a richness in fusing
international perspectives with ‘the
local Indian way.’ I feel inspired by
Indians who have a knack for ‘jugaad’
and find a living or solutions in the
smallest of things.
I meet many people who want
to make a difference but don’t know
which NGOs to trust, how to monitor
Former Australian cricketer Brett Lee
has been a client of Innovaid
their funds and ensure they reach the
right beneficiaries, or how to set up a
foundation that it is sustainable in the
long run. I have worked in the development sector for over 15 years
India: from the Punjabi food in
and I know the complexities of the space. That’s what gave me the idea
dhabas in Haryana to fish and
of Innovaid, my company, which makes philanthropy easy, and tailors
Bengali sweets in Kolkata. This
Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) to meet business needs.
country is the food lover’s dream.
I have been privileged to work with people like Raj Kumar
I also love the camaraderie
Lakshyaraj Singh Mewar (The Prince of Udaipur) and Thomas Muthoot
of Mumbai; you meet wonderful
of Kerala. I’ve been in thick discussions with Shah Rukh Khan till the
wee hours of the morning to help him channel his ideas and take his
philanthropy to an all-new level. I’ve also helped Steve Waugh and
Brett Lee shape and implement their social investments in India.
Since I arrived in Mumbai, in 2007, there have been so many rapid
changes. The city has opened up entrepreneurially and gastronomically.
Indian food was one of the key reasons I wanted to shift to the country.
My first year in India was spent living with a family in a village
outside of Ooty and learning to cook all the different curries, chutneys,
and breads. Now, whenever I head back to Australia I cook up a big Indian
spread of pooris, parathas and the like, for my family and friends. I’m
married to a South Indian, and having lived in Tamil Nadu for so long, I
have developed a penchant for the food of the south. I’ve had the most
amazing experience travelling in my free time and eating all across
THE LEELA MAGAZINE
Profile
Emily R Menon is an
Australian living in Mumbai.
She is the founder of
Innovaid, a company that
helps the rich maximise
their social impact through
philanthropy and CSR.
She has over 12 years
experience in grassroots
and regional community
development in both
Australia and India.
To know more, visit
www.innovaid.in
| 84 | SPRING 2016
people from all walks of life. I
love the chaos. I grew up on a
farm in outback Australia with no
neighbours and not a person in
sight — surrounded by cows and
kangaroos! Here, I’m surrounded
by millions of people and I love
the ebb and flow of the city. I
find the west to be very clinical,
homogenised
and
sanitised.
India is the opposite. While most
Indians are frustrated by how
some things work here, I find it a
refreshing change.
INSIDER’S GUIDE
More than an
IT city
SOCIAL INDEX
W
Snooker and billiards champion
Pankaj Advani, who has lived in
hen children her age would be playing outside,
Deeksha, a Delhi-based
taught in terms of quantity of oxygen emitted by trees,
Tripat Parmar would be busy manicuring a
NGO, is harnessing the
and English can be enriched by teaching how to write
waste patch of land into a lush herbal garden. She
power of young minds
a petition for a neighbourhood environmental hazard.
Bengaluru for two decades, talks
could endlessly stare at nature and be one with the
about the charm of the city.
environment, but growing up in Delhi (now one of
to bring about a shift
Deeksha is striving to preserve it. Their Herbal Garden
India’s most polluted cities) only made her realise
in our attitude towards
projects seek to educate young women, and children
that nature was a ticking bomb. Weaving her passion
the environment.
about the benefits of indigenous plants and their
The ISKCON temple, with its air
of serenity, is a lovely place
Here, you will not only appreciate
for the environment together, she started Diffuse
the weather but also enjoy the
Environmental Education and Keep Society Humbly
city’s vibe. On a spiritual note,
Aware — DEEKSHA — in 2002.
serenity, is a lovely place to visit.
medicinal properties. But the NGO’s most ambitious
By Apekshita Varshney
Though environmental consciousness
the ISKCON temple, with its air of
While we’ve forgotten our backyard science,
project has been their work with the inmates’
children in Tihar Jail. Deeksha innovatively
tried to channel the children’s aggression
is rising, it’s still typically Indian to
by engaging them with nature. “When
engage in arguments that belittle
children were asked to dig the earth,
conservation because we are a
Indiranagar is one of the liveliest
developing country. We snub
them, it soothed them,” Parmar
neighbourhoods
Bengaluru
environmentalists as elite and
says. Deeksha has also worked
and has a lot of lovely places to
turn a deaf ear to warnings
with visually impaired children
visit and eat. I really enjoy going
because they don’t concern
at the National Association
to Fatty Bao and Mamagoto there:
us
Our
For the Blind in Chandigarh.
both places serve excellent Pan
environment has been the
Children were taught to feel
Asian food. I am a vegetarian and
least of our priorities. Deeksha
one with nature by identifying
any dishes that contain tofu and
has sensed this pulse as it seeks
and taking care of trees by touch.
mushroom really hit the spot
to tap the bubbling energy of
for me. Khansama in UB city is
children and raise them as their task
excellent for Indian food, with
force. “Deeksha’s main aim is to bring
What makes Bengaluru a special city to you?
their breads, vegetarian curries
about an attitudinal change,” Parmar
It has the loveliest weather; I have been to 35 countries but
and dals. I am partial towards
says. “Environment isn’t the government’s
haven’t found such pleasant weather anywhere. Every time I
paneer, and I frequently order it,
or an NGOs’ responsibility alone. When you are
return to Bengaluru, I look forward to its cool climate. This city
whether at places like Khansama
breathing the same air and drinking
is also special for me because of its people — they are relaxed,
or in the smaller restaurants at
the same water, why shouldn’t you
and always willing to help.
Commercial Street — the Paneer
be held responsible?”
GETTY IMAGES
What are some good restaurants?
in
personally,
With
Mamtai dish is my favourite. You
yet.
support
from
get awesome dosas and coffee
like
what other places that give the city its real character?
at the Airlines Hotel. Don’t miss
is also present in Chandigarh,
the ice creams at Corner House,
trains school teachers on how to
especially the hot chocolate fudge
creatively
— it is a Bengaluru specialty.
increase environmental awareness.
With migration, Bengaluru has become very cosmopolitan.
Though the green cover has reduced, it is still is known by many
as the Garden City. I have fond memories of Lalbagh Botanical
Gardens. As a kid, I would go there with my parents, and
we’d really enjoy our Sunday picnics, amidst all the greenery,
flowers and the lake. Nowadays, I often go to Cubbon Park for
a jog. Bengaluru’s educational institutions also give the city
an interesting facet. They support non-conventional trends,
encourage extra-curricular activities, and help students build
an all-round personality. You must also visit the many open air
coffee joints, or rooftop bars like Skyye and High Ultra Lounge.
The 30-year old Pankaj Advani is
India’s most successful cueist with 15
World Titles to his name —11 in billiards
and four in snooker. He won his first title
at the age of 12 and was only 18 when
he won his first World Title. He is the
only person in the history of the game to
have won both the billiards and snooker
IBSF World Titles as well as the World
Professional Billiards Championship. His
latest achievement is the IBSF World
Snooker Championship, which he won
for the second time, in 2015.
Deeksha,
engage
Deeksha’s efforts demonstrate
that sustainable development is in
every person’s capacity. “Reuse, refuse,
recycle and share what you have in excess
— that’s saving the environment, too. Planting
trees is not the only way,” Parmar says.
brands
Globally, Bengaluru is known as the IT Capital of India. But
Microsoft,
plant trees, and then nurture
children
which
and
“Environment is not something to
Where should one shop here?
be taught in isolation; it must be
Malls like UB City and Bangalore
combined with other subjects,” says
Central are popular for branded
Parmar. For example, a Deeksha
stuff. Indiranagar has a lot of
teacher will know that math can be
quaint, standalone stores where
you can buy lots of interesting
knickknacks.
(From left) A team of students interacting with the late Dr. Kalam; and plantation in progress
Deeksha is a volunteer-based organisation with about 30 volunteers for each project.
To be a volunteer or to contribute money, call on 9818148979/ 9501293955 or email at deeksha@deeksha.net/deeksha.ngo@gmail.com
Interviewed by Akhila Ranganna
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| 86 | SPRING 2016
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