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D A I LY N E W S
BA SELWORLD • T HE WAT CH AND JE WELLER Y SHOW
EDITORIAL
•
BRILLIANCE MEE T S
•
MARCH 17 – 24, 2016
EIGHT DAYS OF BRILLIANCE BEGIN
S W I S S F E D E R A L C O U N C I L L O R S I M O N E T TA S O M M A R U G A
I N A U G U R A T E S T H E 2 016 E D I T I O N O F T H E S H O W
By xv
•
W W W.BA SELWORLD.COM
18.
FRIDAY, MARCH
HIGHLIGHTS
02
As the new President of the Exhibitors’
Committee, I take great pride and
pleasure in extending a very warm welcome to Baselworld 2016 to all of you.
Over the coming days, this friendly
city will host the most important marketplace for the entire watch and jewellery industry. Just once a year, and only
at Baselworld, all the key players of this
industry gather to showcase innovation
and creativity in new collections that
will captivate the world and, no doubt,
set the trends for the coming year.
Baselworld resonates around the world,
and is of major importance for the industry, as well as for Switzerland and the
city of Basel. It is an essential date in my
calendar as it represents the ideal opportunity to pay tribute to this jewel for the
Swiss economy and also because it
brings together the key players from
around the world.
Year in and year out, Baselworld
focuses on anticipating market developments, thereby helping the watch and
jewellery industry to stay one step
ahead. By carefully observing the market
and actively listening to the brands, this
show accurately reflects the current
mood and needs of the industry as a
whole. This is the recipe behind
Baselworld’s unique success as the
essential meeting point for the world’s
watch and jewellery industry.
I invite you to enjoy all the wonders
that this edition has in store for you and
wish you a most successful Baselworld
2016!
Eric Bertrand
President of the Baselworld
Exhibitors’ Committee
H E A R D I N B A S E L
“Baselworld is the perfect
place for us to celebrate
two important anniversaries: 40 years of Happy
Diamonds and 20 years of
Chopard Manufacture.”
karl-friedrich scheufele,
Co-President Chopard
EXCEEDING
EXPECTATIONS
Carl F. Bucherer looks back on a
strong performance in 2015 and
introduces a new manufacture
movement, as CEO Sascha Moeri
explains.
04
Traditional ribbon cutting for this year’s edition of Baselworld: Federal Councillor Simonetta Sommaruga (middle) together with René Kamm, CEO MCH
Group (3rd from right), Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director Baselworld (3rd from left), François Thiébaud, President of the Swiss Exhibitors’ Committee
(2nd from right), Eric Bertrand, President of the Baselworld Exhibitors’ Committee (2nd from left), Christoph Brutschin, Member of the Government of
the Canton of Basel-Stadt (right), and Thomas Weber, Member of the Government of the Canton of Basel-Landschaft (left).
Y
esterday, amid bright sunshine,
Swiss Federal Councillor Simonetta
Sommaruga inaugurated Baselworld
2016. During the opening ceremony,
Sommaruga said: “Baselworld is the
world’s most important watch and jewellery show and the largest display window.
The Swiss watch has economic significance as well as being an ambassador for
the Swiss identity, as a symbol of quality,
reliability and accuracy.”
René Kamm, CEO of the MCH
Group, noted that: “Baselworld continues to consolidate and strengthen its
leadership position year after year – this
is a rare quality that needs to be highlighted.” He also touched on the difficult economic situation facing the world
and the industry, but emphasised his
confidence in the sector, commenting:
“Where passion presides, the will to
overcome challenges will always succeed. And the watch and jewellery industry has both the passion and the resilience to deal with these challenges.”
Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director of
Baselworld, added: “For eight days a
year, Baselworld is the nerve centre for
an entire industry that unites here in
Basel to take the pulse of the business.”
She went on to demonstrate what makes
Baselworld so significant with some
impressive facts and figures. “No other
event in the world brings together so
many famous and prestigious brands; no
other watch or jewellery presentation
attracts 150,000 visitors from over 100
countries.”
Sylvie Ritter thanked the exhibitors
whose commitment is the most impor-
tant factor in the appeal of Baselworld.
She added: “Thanks for your loyalty to
the show and not least for continuing to
deliver state-of-the-art innovations and
creations that will determine the trends
of tomorrow.”
Basel-Stadt Cantonal Council Member, Christoph Brutschin, addressed the
current challenges: “As a result of digitalisation, we currently find ourselves at
the threshold of a new industrial era.
This development is driving the watch
industry to new innovations and new
creations.” Finally, Brutschin acknowledged how proud both he and the
people of Basel are that Baselworld has
become such an essential meeting place
for the entire industry in its capacity as
an unmissable forward-thinking and
trend-oriented event.
SOARING TO NEW
HEIGHTS
Graff Diamonds, a grand name in
haute joaillerie, surprises once
more with grand complications.
CEO Francois Graff gives exclusive insights.
10
160 YEARS OF TOPLEVEL EXPERTISE
Eterna reflects on its rich history
and gets ready for the future
with a strong collection. CEO
Robert Dreyfuss has details.
20
A UNIQUE BRAND
DNA
Mido watches enjoy worldwide
growth thanks to a strong collection inspired by timeless architecture. President Franz Linder
has the latest.
24
THE POWER OF
LIGHT
Citizen celebrates 40 years of
innovative Eco-Drive technology.
Toshio Tokura, President,
presents the major debuts, which
include an ultra-thin timepiece.
FROM CLASSIC TO CUTTING EDGE
T I S S O T D E B U T S T R A D I T I O N A L A N D S P O R T Y P I E C E S A S W E L L A S A S M A R T WAT C H
Interview by William George Shuster
F
rançois Thiébaud, CEO of Tissot,
tells the Baselworld Daily News
how “quality and precision” guide
the company’s past, present and future.
BWDN: Is there a smartwatch in
Tissot’s future?
François Thiébaud: Yes, and in its past.
We created the first connected watch in
2005, in partnership with Microsoft, the
Tissot High-T. It was for U.S. cities and
provided weather, stocks, even sports
results. This year, we are presenting the
Tissot Smart-Touch, a new T-Touch Solar
with multiple applications. It is a smartwatch that remains a watch, powered by
solar energy.
What are the other Baselworld debuts?
In classics, we have the Le Locle Régulateur, a tribute to tradition, and the Heritage 1936, a return to the 1930s. For
ladies, there is the Bella Ora, a fashionable, feminine collection, and the Bella
Ora Piccola, which has more of a jewellery feel. Also new is the Le Locle Lady
Automatic, a bold collection for women.
In sports, as new partner of America’s
National Basketball Association, we have
the Tissot NBA Collection, the T-Touch
Expert Solar NBA Special Edition and
the Tissot Quickster NBA Team Collection. There’s also the T-Race MotoGP
Automatic Limited edition 2016, for our
partnership with MotoGP. In gold watch-
es, we have the Tissot Vintage Chronograph and Tissot Prestigious, a ladies’
watch inspired by the 1920s.
Tissot has won four prizes, including two
firsts, at the International Timing
Competition. Why is that important?
The quality and precision of Tissot’s
watches have been recognised in competitions since the founding of the brand.
These enable us to push the limits of
quality and prove ourselves in a competitive market. It also shows that our motto
of luxury watches at affordable prices isn’t
just a claim. We’re very proud to win the
first ever Chronograph Category with the
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles. 1.0, D31
François Thiébaud, CEO Tissot.
2 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
FRIDAY, MARCH 18, 2016
CONTENTS
EXCEEDING EXPECTATIONS
C A R L F. B U C H E R E R I N T R O D U C E S T H E A 2 0 0 0 FA M I LY O F W AT C H E S
01 WATCHES
New calibre
A2000,
Carl F.
Bucherer.
02 Carl F. Bucherer / Jaquet Droz /
Omega
04 Graff Diamonds / Girard-Perregaux /
Blancpain
08 Métiers d’Art / Zenith / Bulgari
10 Eterna / Ulysse Nardin / Chopard
14 Dior / Porsche Design / Breitling
16 Fendi Timepieces / Jacob & Co. /
Gucci
20 Mido / Hamilton / Vulcain / Oris
24 Citizen / Concord / Pequignet /
TechnoMarine
28 AHCI / Rado / House of Florrie /
Calvin Klein watches + jewelry
32 Sinn Spezialuhren / Seiko / Bulova /
Aerowatch
36 Charriol / Roamer / Saint Honoré /
Shinola
40 Fashion / Invicta / Casio / Rosenthal
44 MB&F / Romain Gauthier /
Imprint
02 JEWELLERY
49 De Grisogono / Roberto Coin /
Brumani
50 Maria Gaspari / Roberto Demeglio /
Ponte Vecchio / IsabelleFa
52 Ole Lynggaard
56 Carrera y Carrera / UNOde50
60 Trend: Green
03 INNOVATIONS
64 Workbenches / Cleaning devices
68 Siro Lasertec / Witschi Electronic /
Horotec / DWS
72 Hilderbrand & Cie / Sistotec /
Usines Métallurgiques de Vallorbe /
Roxer
76 Orotig / Veyret / Solidscape /
GRS Tools
04 GEMSTONES
80 The big three: Rubies, Emeralds
and Sapphires / Venus Jewels /
Paul Wild
An ePaper edition of the Baselworld
Daily News is also available for download from www.baselworld.com
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T
he luxury watch line Carl
F. Bucherer is strengthening its markets internationally, adding another
family of calibres, increasing production, and debuting eye-catching new models in 2016. Sascha Moeri,
the Swiss brand’s CEO, talks to
Baselworld Daily News about all of these.
BWDN: How is business for Carl F.
Bucherer (CFB) watches?
Sascha Moeri: A main goal in recent
years has been to strengthen our market
position internationally. So, I’m pleased
to report, we’ve made great progress in
various countries.
As Asia remains a key market for
Carl F. Bucherer, we’ve successfully
strengthened our distribution network
throughout it. We’ve further consolidated our position in the U.S., and we’re
seeking organic growth within the
Bucherer Group and with our strong,
reliable partners throughout Europe.
Recently, we not only opened a
boutique in the renowned Dubai mall,
but also our first brand exclusive
boutique in Switzerland, in Interlaken.
So, we’ve performed very well. We
exceeded expectations and reached our
goals before the end of 2015.
CFB had a sales target in 2015 of
25,000 watches. What is the goal for
2016?
will be a motor for various additional
functions currently being designed.
The first model is in the new
Manero Peripheral, a collection with
great complications. The new calibre
family lets us also implement the
peripheral rotor calibres in ladies’
watches, for which both outer design
and inner values are important.
Sascha Moeri, Carl F. Bucherer CEO.
We reached that before 2015 ended. In
the past five years, we’ve quadrupled
our production output, exceeding our
expectations. So, we’re confident we’ll
break through the 30,000 mark soon,
especially since we’re building a stateof-the-art manufacture in Lengnau.
You said in 2015 that CFB would debut
“a new mechanical calibre family in
2016”. Please tell us about it.
We’re proud to release a new calibre
family starting with the CFB A2000.
The new movement draws energy by
automatic self-winding when it turns
either way, with a peripheral arrangement of the oscillating weight. Carl F.
LUCKY NUMBER 8
ALL YEAR LONG
JAQUE T DROZ PRE SEN T S T HE
GR A NDE SECONDE OF F- CEN T RED IN BL ACK
OMEGA ENRICHES GLOBEMAS T ER LINE
WI T H AN ANNUAL CALENDAR
by Sabine Zwet tler
by Sabine Zwet tler
T
he special charm of the Grande
Seconde has always been its
minimalism and the purity of
its form, both of which are further
underscored by the use of high-quality
materials. The Grande Seconde OffCentred likewise celebrates the
delights of minimalism. As the name
states, the second’s hand dominates
the scene from its off-centre dial on the
left-hand side of the face, where it
overlaps the subdial for the hours and
minutes to form the figure 8, a number
which has always held special sig
significance for Jaquet Droz. The
technically and aesthetically
appealing principle can be
traced back to the brand’s
founder, Pierre Jaquet-Droz.
In accord with another of
the brand’s noble traditradi
tions, the dial is crafted
from a disc of black
onyx, which contrasts
nobly with the subdials,
hands and indices, all of
which are made of
white gold. The crown
is positioned at 4
o’clock on the flank of the
stainless steel case, which
measures 43 mm in diameter.
1.0, C25B
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Bucherer was the first manufacturer to
get this construction principle ready for
series production.
Another technological speciality of
the A2000 is in the precision adjustment. To ensure the best accuracy, our
watchmakers use a completely free
pulsating spring. Its effective length is
not affected in any way.
The rate of the watch can be adjusted by so-called pivotable “Masselottes”.
These small weights sit atop the
balance wheel’s four legs and regulate
its inertia. The inertia swings with
4 hertz or 28,800 half oscillations per
hour, which provides great accuracy.
Due to a high torque, the CFB A2000
What are the other CFB’s big debuts
here at Baselworld?
As mentioned, one is the new calibre
family, the A2000, now in the Manero
Peripheral. The Manero collection is
complemented by another model, the
Manero Flyback.
There is a new model in Patravi
ScubaTec, a beautiful white watch with
a smaller diameter of 36.5 mm that
appeals to ladies as well. The new
Patravi TravelTec model has a bold black
coating and its brother, the Patravi
TravelTec II, is in full rose gold.
And there is the Pathos Swan, an
addition to our successful ladies’ Pathos
line. It is beautifully set with brilliants
and sapphires, forming a swan on the
dial, a symbol of our home town Lucerne
1.0, C33
here in Switzerland.
Grande Seconde Off-Centred, Jaquet Droz.
I
n 2015, the Globemaster was one
of Omega’s star timepieces on
show in Basel. This year, the much
talked about Master Chronometer
returns with an update. The inspiration for the Globemaster Master
Chronometer Annual Calendar movement comes from the twelve facets of
the watch’s Pie Pan dial. A central varnished blue hand indicates the current
month through an instantaneous jump.
As part of the evolution, the case diameter has been increased from 39 mm to
41 mm. The polished hour and minute
hands are blued and facetted, and they
are coated with SuperLuminova, along
with the blued indexes. In changing
light, the overall effect of the dial is
truly captivating. Completing this col-
Globemaster Master
Chronometer Annual
Calendar, Omega.
our theme, there is a blue leather strap
equipped with a stainless steel foldover
clasp. The case itself has been crafted
from stainless steel and, similar to last
year’s launch, the polished fluted bezel
has been made with scratchproof tungsten carbide.
What made last year’s Globemaster
truly unique was its position as the
world’s first Master Chronometer. This
time, the model has been fitted with
the new Co-Axial Master Chronometer
Calibre 8922, while the Master Chronometer certification card that accompanies the timepiece proves that the
watch has passed the eight intensive
tests established by the Swiss Federal
Institute of Metrology (METAS).
1.0, C25D
Albert riele
World MAtch rAcing tour
liMited edition
bASelWorld 2016
hall 1.1 stand A87
4 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
CONQUERING ALL COMPLICATIONS
G R A F F D I A M O N D S’ C E O F R A N C O I S G R A F F S P E A K S O F T H E
FA S C I N AT I O N O F T I M E A N D T H E PA S S I O N F O R I N N O V AT I O N
I n t e r v i e w by N i n a H a ld
W
A complication not yet conquered by
Graff Luxury Watches would be?
One complication would be a perpetual
calendar tourbillon. However, we are
unveiling a watch featuring this movement as part of the Graff Calibre 7 at
Baselworld this year, and it is a proprietary movement exclusive to Graff
Luxury Watches. Even though we’ve
now conquered all of the “traditional”
complications, we will continue to dedicate ourselves to innovation in both
horology and diamond design. We
certainly have the technical expertise
and the ambition to continue to create
new calibres – so watch this space.
hile having conquered all ‘traditional’ complications, the
quest for innovation
in both haute horlogerie and precious diamond design
continues for Graff Diamonds’ CEO
Francois Graff, who is personally captivated by the concept of time.
BWDN: What is the most important
complicated watch news of Graff
Diamonds here at Baselworld?
Francois Graff: We are constantly innovating and working hard to advance our
horological complications. This year we
will unveil a new timepiece: The
MasterGraff Perpetual Calendar, featuring the Graff Calibre 7 with a depth
of just 7.72 mm. One of the most complex designs currently available in the
marketplace, it took our dedicated,
expert team many thousands of hours
to develop. This timepiece also incorporates a number of new and highly
advanced techniques, including a complex scientific electroforming process,
which is used to create the matter for
the two discs indicating the days and
months. A specially formulated resin,
which has been treated to give it a
translucent appearance, is also incorporated into the dial.
What are ambitions of Graff Luxury
Watches for high jewellery watches?
We are constantly working to refine and
enhance our designs, creating pieces to
surprise and delight our clients, while
staying true to our diamond and gemstone expertise by using only the very
finest quality stones. Our new Princess
Butterfly watch, which we have
launched here at Baselworld, perfectly
exemplifies this ethos, in which a
hidden jewelled mechanism is pushed
to reveal a secret 17 mm watch face, set
with mother-of-pearl. Once the gouache
design was complete, 3D technology
was used to realise the butterfly wings
CEO Francois
Graff.
Calibre 7, Graff Diamonds.
with each curve and contour mappedout to reflect accurate shape and movement. This is the first time we have
used the Butterfly motif in such a literal
translation – and in doing so, and to
ensure complete perfection, our master
craftsmen spent many months testing
the composition and construction of the
piece. This watch really is work of art –
and I’m sure it will be well received by
our clients globally.
What fascinates you personally most
about time?
Time is the one aspect of life that is the
same for us all. It cannot be stopped,
rewound or accelerated. This is a
concept that fascinates me, and pushes
me to achieve my very upmost each and
1.1, D51
every day.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, LADYBIRD SEVENTIES ICON REVIVED
B L A N C PA I N L A U N C H E S A N E W V E R S I O N
O F A L E G E N D A R Y L A D I E S’ W AT C H
G I R A R D - P E R R E G A U X C E L E B R AT E S I T S 22 5 T H A N N I V E R S A R Y
W I T H A L I M I T E D E D I T I O N O F I T S I C O N I C L A U R E AT O
by Sabine Zwet tler
by Carol Besler
R
T
eaffirming its traditional penchant for luxurious ladies’ timepieces, the Swiss watch brand
Blancpain celebrates the 60th birthday of
its appealingly feminine Ladybird model
with the launch of a strictly limited series
of 60 timepieces. When the Ladybird
debuted in 1956, this model encased the
smallest circular movement that was
available on the market. Fine small wristwatches were so popular at that time that
Blancpain’s watchmakers had to mobilize
all of their skills and inventiveness to
achieve a masterful technical feat – the
successful miniaturization of the individual components of a mechanical wristwatch. Conceived by the manufacture’s
artisans, this new version has a dial that
plays with gleaming contrasts, boasts an
elaborate foliage motif and hosts teardrop-shaped hands. Limited to 60 pieces,
the wristwatches in this special anniversary edition sparkle with numerous diamonds: 32 radiant diamonds adorn the
bezel and another eight diamonds sparkle on the nacreous dial. The white gold
case is 21.5 millimetres in diameter. The
automatic calibre has a silicon hairspring.
This petite wristwatch is affixed to a
pretty purple leather wrist strap.
1.0, D19
he Laureato is an iconic model
for Girard-Perregaux, introduced in 1975 with design
codes that defied the conventions of the
era. It had a polished octagonal bezel on
a satin-brushed case, with an integrated
bracelet. The name is a reference to the
film world, inspired by the Mike
Nichols’ movie “The Graduate” (1967)
starring Dustin Hoffman, Anne Bancroft and Katharine Ross. Laureato is
the Italian translation of the film’s
Ladybird, Blancpain.
Laureato, Girard-Perregaux.
title. The original Laureato was introduced at the height of the quartz era, a
time when Girard-Perregaux developed
its own quartz movement, a high-frequency (32,768 hertz) calibre that set
the standard of the day, and bore the
name “quartz chronometer.” The
model was enlarged in 1995 to accommodate an automatic mechanical
movement, and again in 1996 when it
was upgraded with a chronograph calibre. The new model introduced at
Baselworld this year has a 41 mm stainless steel case and retains the hexagonal bezel and baton-shaped hands of
the original. The dial is stamped with a
Clous-de-Paris pattern, as was the original 1975 model. It contains a manufacture movement, the automatic Calibre
GP03300-0030, with a 46-hour power
reserve. The watch celebrates GirardPerregaux’s 225th anniversary, and is
being made in a limited edition of 225
1.0, D49
timepieces.
JACOB & CO. XTREME TOURBILLON
Twin Triple Axis Tourbillon
Minute Repeater; Cathedral Gong
N e w Yo r k
48 E as t 57 S t reet , New Yor k , N e w Yor k + 1 . 2 1 2 . 7 1 9 . 5 8 8 7
G e n e v a Che mi n de Pl ei n- Vent 1 ch- 1228 G e n e v a , Sw i t z e r l a n d + 4 1 . 2 2 . 3 1 0 . 6 9 6 2
jacobandco.com
V I S I T U S AT B A S E LW O R L D 2 0 1 6
H A L L 1 . 1 S TA N D B 3 1
8 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
MINIATURE WORKS OF ART
A V A R I E T Y O F A R T I S T I C C R A F T S G R A C E D I A L S O F T H E M O S T L U X U R I O U S W R I S T W AT C H E S
by Elizabeth Doerr
A
hand-painted or enamelled
dial is always a unique a
work of art. However,
today, brands have taken to
seeking out the most
inventive arts and crafts they can find to
add beauty to the dials of wristwatches
and raise the bar in terms of rarity.
In the wake of the quartz crisis,
enamelling – and many other artistic
techniques – had all but died out in
watchmaking. Thus, the lion’s share of
hand-enamelled dials was created for a
multitude of brands by one artist with
unmistakable talent and experience:
Anita Porchet. Today, thanks to inspiration provided by Porchet and other pioneering artists, the range of artistic crafts
used in horology is practically limitless.
Let’s have a look at three incredibly
beautiful watches launching here at
Baselworld.
Despite its growing rarity, Fabergé
continued in-house enamelling for
generations. But other art forms now
come into play again at Fabergé, harking
back to the brand’s jewellery origins.
Because of its merger with Gemfields,
Fabergé notably now uses the art of gemsetting to spectacular effect. Gemfields,
the world’s leading supplier of responsibly sourced coloured gemstones, owns
and operates Kagem, which produces 20
percent of the world’s emerald supply.
The natural beauty of these stones is
highly in evidence on the unique Fabergé
Lady Libertine I, a 36 mm rose gold
timepiece with a diamond-set bezel
(1.84 ct.), boasting a pattern representing the Zambian terrain where Kagem is
located. Unusually, it is created using a
combination of polished snow-set emeralds and rough, hand-carved emerald
outlined in fine, filigreed gold that looks
and acts much like fine cloisonnés.
Chanel, too, has carved out a niche
for itself with the Mademoiselle Privé
jewellery watch line. At Baselworld, the
brand is introducing several unique pieces christened Mademoiselle Privé
Coromandel Glyptic whose dials boast
evidence of the exceedingly rare art
known as “glyptic”. A jewellery technique already known to the ancient
Egyptians and in use at Chanel since
2014, this is the art of sculpting semiprecious gemstones both in intaglio
and relief. These dials were inspired
by Chinese Coromandel screens,
folding wooden paravents of
carved, dark lacquer that are
painted with gold or other
colours.
Set against the jetblack background of onyx,
the birds on these dials
sculpted using glyptic
attain beautiful threedimensionality. Gold, coral,
turquoise, coralline, lapis lazuli, enamel, chrysoprase, malachite, rhodonite, jade and mother of
pearl are added to create each unique
scene framed by a 37.5 mm, 18k
white or beige gold case whose rounded bezel is snow-set with varying
degrees of diamonds. Each dial is
unique and takes more than 100 hours
to produce. The movements are either
quartz or automatic.
BULGARI REINTERPRETS
AN ICON
MODERN RENDI T ION OF A LEGENDAR Y T IMEPIECE
b y R o b e r ta N a a s
I
t is a great year for the grand dames
at Bulgari. This high-jewellery
brand with rich Roman roots comes
on strong this year with exciting new
collections for women – many of which
are set with gems.
While each is stunning in its own
right, it is the new Serpenti Incantati
that stands out most significantly. That
Serpenti
Incantati,
Bulgari.
may be because the all-new watch is a
bold but beautiful reinterpretation of
the brand’s famed Serpenti watch. The
line depicts the charming Serpenti –
snake – in a new light. Whereas the traditional Serpenti line is a physically
coiled bracelet that emulates the snake’s
body and ends in his head in a triangular
format (sometimes as a secret or hidden
watch), the new Serpenti Incantati is a
modern and seductive rendition. It features a round dial and case, with diamonds or gems set in such a way as to
resemble a snake coiled around it. At the
base of the case, the diamonds or gemstones extend out – forming the tail and
the head of the snake. It is all very sublime and seemingly free form, which
adds to its beauty. Translated as
“enchanting,” Incantati is a natural
Italian interpretation of contemporary
high-jewellery and visionary design. The
new line was inspired by a vintage 1930’s
brooch that the brand had created in its
1.0, A01
Rome atelier.
Lady Libertine
I, Fabergé.
La Montre Hermès has also developed into quite a specialist for rare
métiers d’art dials as well. The luxury
giant also uses enamelled dials
produced by Anita Porchet, among
others. However, the extraordinary Arceau Tigre was crafted
by Olivier Vaucher, who used
a vintage design by Robert
Dallet, an important designer in the recent history of the
House of Hermès, as the
direct inspiration for this
Mademoiselle
Privé Coromandel
Glyptic, Chanel.
Arceau Tiger, Hermès.
WOMEN ONLY
ZENITH PRESENT S THE ELITE L ADY MOONPHASE
by Sabine Zwet tler
Z
enith’s Elite collection exclusively
celebrates femininity in 2016.
Previous Elite models were conceived for both sexes, but the new Elite
Lady Moonphase embodies only the feminine face of the Elite collection. Available
in five variants featuring pink gold or
stainless steel, each model has an extraslim, 36 millimetre-diameter case. The
transparent back reveals Calibre Elite
692: this movement automatically winds
itself with kinetic energy transferred from
its rotor, which is adorned with côtes de
Genève. The ultra-slim movement is a
mere 3.97 mm tall, concatenates 195 components and will continue to run for more
than 50 hours. Its balance is paced at
28,800 semi-oscillations per hour.
A diamond-studded or polished bezel
surrounds the sleekly simple dial, which is
covered with white mother of pearl. This
nacreous natural material contrasts
beautifully with the dark blue star-strewn
disc of the moon-phase display. Slender
leaf-shaped hands point to engraved
stylised indices or, in one variant, to sculp1.0, D05
tural Roman numerals.
dial. And Vaucher uses a new technique
to craft it: “émail ombrant” or “shaded
enamel”. The technique, which combines engraving and enamelling, highlights the feline strength of the tiger
depicted on the watch housed in a
41 mm white gold Arceau case. It involves
first carving out the design in the white
gold dial using bas relief before slightly
tinted translucent enamel is added.
Powered by Hermès’ automatic Calibre
H1837, it is available in a 12-piece
limited edition.
Elite Lady Moonphase, Zenith.
10 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
“A STRONG BRAND,
A UNIQUE HISTORY”
R O B E R T D R E Y F U S S , C E O O F E T E R N A , I S C E L E B R AT I N G T H E 16 0 T H
ANNIVERSARY OF THE BRAND
Interview by Iris Wimmer -Olbort
E
terna has grand plans – on
the occasion of its 160th
anniversary, the company
with a long-standing tradition recalls its rich history
as it looks to the future with several
strong products.
For Eterna, celebrating its history means
honouring its raison d’être, seeking aesthetic and technical innovations and
looking to its future. For this special
year, Eterna plans to have several events
to celebrate its 160 years, starting at
Baselworld.
BWDN: Eterna is celebrating its 160th
anniversary this year and is reinventing
itself: the brand is presenting “The
New World of Eterna” at Baselworld.
What does this mean?
Robert Dreyfuss: For its 160th anniversary, Eterna will not only look back on a
rich history influenced by excellent
achievements as a pioneer, but it will
also be well positioned for future success. At Eterna we have everything in
place to succeed: a strong brand, a
unique history, a rich legacy of innovative technical developments that have
set new industry standards, and classic
products which have rightfully become
exceptional horological icons. We need
to return to this unparalleled basis that
characterises Eterna. Eterna will streamline the core collection down to five
pillars: KonTiki, Eternity, Heritage,
Lady Eterna and Special Edition. All the
timepieces will be inspired by wellknown in-house predecessors. New creations will enhance and strengthen
What role will Eterna’s own movements, for example, Calibre 39, play in
the future?
The Calibre 39 Chronograph is a unique
and outstanding calibre that we produce
in house. The first Super KonTiki
Chronograph with the in-house 3916A
flyback chronograph calibre is presented
here at Baselworld. In three years, we
will have our manufacture movements
in 50 percent of our watches. Today,
Eterna has completed a task involving
high precision and ingenuity, its Calibre
39. This movement is not only an industrial calibre, but also represents a larger
family of calibres because of its modularity. We can produce 88 different
movements using the base calibre.
1856 Skeleton, Eterna.
Eterna’s historically important ladies’
segment. More focus will be placed on
the brand’s heritage and fascinating
legacies, such as Thor Heyerdahl’s
adventurous ocean expedition in 1947
that led Eterna to develop the KonTiki.
To date, this is the benchmark for
extreme sportiness, absolute reliability
and precision, robustness and durability.
Last but not least, another priority for
Eterna is building relationships with its
worldwide distribution partners.
How do you plan to commemorate the
anniversary?
What is your personal highlight among
Eterna’s new watches?
Eterna is one of very few genuine legacy
brands with true history, heritage and
Swiss watchmaking credentials. Eterna,
unlike some of its peer group, is an
Robert Dreyfuss, CEO of Eterna (above),
calibre 3916A (right).
authentic movement manufacture with
pioneering roots dating back over 100
years. The 1856 Skeleton celebrates
this rich tapestry of watchmaking and
reinforces Eterna’s genuine movement
manufacturing past. In my view, the
1856 Skeleton is an outstanding piece of
craftsmanship and my favourite men’s
timepiece. And the new Golden Heart
fulfils the same role in our ladies’ timepieces. Not only does the Golden Heart
clearly display Eterna’s return to the
market, but the piece also begins a
journey of restoring Eterna in the
market to a position of producing some
of the finest ladies’ watches. Together,
the Golden Heart – demonstrating
Eterna’s history in manufacturing iconic
ladies’ timepieces – and the 1856
Skeleton – representing the raw skill,
art and craftsmanship of movement
manufacture – embody Eterna’s unique
DNA and create an impressive image of
5.0, A01
things to come.
THE L.U.C TURNS 20
ONLY ONCE A YEAR
C H O PA R D PAY S H O M A G E T O T H E F I R S T M O D E L
I N I T S I C O N I C M A N U FA C T U R E C O L L E C T I O N
U LY S S E N A R D I N I N T R O D U C E S M A R I N E
CHRONOGR APH ANNUAL CALENDAR
by Carol Besler
by Sabine Zwet tler
T
he new Chopard L.U.C XPS
1860 is a classic men’s ultraslim dress watch that celebrates the 20th anniversary of the first
watch in the L.U.C collection, the
L.U.C 1860. The new XPS 1860 model
is a contemporary interpretation of the
classic original, with a minimalist design.
The original contained the first Chopard
manufacture movement, the L.U.C
automatic Calibre 96.01-L, with a 22k
gold micro-rotor. The year 1860 refers to
the date when Louis-Ulysse Chopard
founded his watch manufacture. In
1996, after creating the modern Chopard
manufacture, the company created its
A special exhibition is dedicated to 20 years of the Chopard manufacture.
L.U.C XPS 1860
20th anniversary,
Chopard.
first L.U.C model. Like the original, the
new XPS 1860 commemorative watch is
ultra-slim and upholds the grand watchmaking traditions of chronometry – or
timekeeping – precision. The dial features contemporary Dauphine-style
hands, applied hour markers and a small
seconds dial at six o’clock, a feature that
is very rare in ultra-thin watches. The
rose gold case is a very wearable 40 mm
wide, with short, ergonomic lugs. It is a
mere 7.2 mm thick. The dial is decorated with a hand-guilloched motif that
radiates out from the logo at 12 o’clock.
The movement is driven by twin mainspring barrels, which provide a 65-hour
power reserve. It is COSC certified, as
are all L.U.C watches with seconds’
indicators, and bears the Geneva Seal
hallmark. The watch is water resistant
to 30 metres and comes with a brown
1.0, D15
alligator leather strap.
H
alfway between a perpetual
calendar, which doesn’t need
correcting before the year 2100,
and a simple calendar that requires five
manual adjustments a year, the annual
calendar is mechanically programmed for
one year: it recognises months composed
of 30 and 31 days, but not February. It
therefore only needs to be corrected once
a year. But where classic devices involve
up to thirty components, the watchmakers at Ulysse Nardin have managed to
develop a system containing around only
a dozen elements. In a development of
the simple calendar of the UN-118 calibre, the annual calendar needed only
three additional wheels – a challenge
that personifies the spirit of Ludwig
Oechslin. The new UN-153 calibre is
manufactured entirely in house and beats
at 28,800 vibrations per hour. As for the
silicon balance spring and escapement,
they are provided by the Sigatec company, which is co-owned by Ulysse Nardin.
The movement allows the time and
calendar pointers to be moved in either
direction. The model also includes a
chronograph feature. The 30-minute
counter is displayed at three o’clock, the
hour counter at six o’clock and the small
second counter at nine o’clock. The latter also features a month display, which
includes sub dials offering useful guidemarks when setting. Finally, the date is
displayed in a window at six o’clock.
A worthy inheritor of the collection
established by the Marine Chronometer
Manufacture (2012) and the Marine
Chronograph Manufacture (2013) models, the Marine Chronograph Annual Calendar bears the same outstanding classic
forms as sailing instruments, including a
ribbed bezel, a screw-crown guaranteeing
water resistance and a generous 43 mm
1.0, A39
diameter case.
Marine Chronograph
Annual Calendar,
Ulysse Nardin.
ARS 7701
Classic Collection
12-diamond mother-of-pearl dial,
hand assembled multi-link bracelet
emporioarmaniswissmade.com - ARS 3351
BASELWORLD HALL 1.1 / D55
Classic Collection
Automatic movement,
blue alligator strap
14 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
AIR TIME
T H E AV E N G E R B A N D I T J O I N S B R E I T L I N G ’ S
IMPRESSIVE ROSTER OF PROFESSIONAL
AV I AT I O N W AT C H E S
by Carol Besler
B
reitling is known for its aviation
watches and this year is no exception. One of the latest aviatorthemed watch is the Avenger Bandit,
designed specifically in the spirit of naval
aviation. The 45 mm case is made of
lightweight titanium, for a stealth look
and feel. It is enhanced by lateral reinforcements and given a satin-brushed
finish to eliminate any undesirable
reflections. The dial is grey with tone-ontone counters finished in a finely snailed
raised motif. Both dial and bezel are
marked by aviation-inspired stencil type
numerals with a luminescent coating for
high visibility. The bezel features the
signature four rider tabs for easy reading.
Visitors enjoy the latest introductions that demonstrate high watchmaking expertise, creativity and craftsmanship.
DIOR HORLOGERIE
GOES ALL OUT
The military-style strap combines a
sophisticated rubber treatment on the
wrist side, with an anthracite-coloured
high-tech military textile fibre exterior.
The movement is the automatic chronograph Calibre 13, an in-house manufacture movement that is officially chronometer certified by COSC. It is a 1/4thof-a-second chronograph, with 30-minute
and 12-hour totalizers, as well as a calendar function. With a water-resistance of
300 metres, screw-locked crown and unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel, the
Avenger Bandit is also a professionally
rated diver’s watch. The sapphire crystal
is anti-glare on both sides, enhancing vis1.0, C31
ibility from every angle.
N E W L A D D E D I O R S AT I N E A N D L AT E S T M O D E L S F R O M T H E
K E Y C O L L E C T I O N S O N D I S P L AY AT B A S E L W O R L D
b y Ky r a B r e n z i n g e r
P
resented at Baselworld for
the first time, La D de Dior
Satine is like a ribbon, which
can be used to tell the time.
“I drew inspiration from
satin ribbons to design this new range in
which the Milanese mesh straps reflect
the suppleness and shine of a metal
fabric,” says Victoire de Castellane, in
charge of the brands artistic direction.
The name “La D de Dior Satine” was
inspired by the world of couture, which
is associated with a timeless aesthetics,
revisited through the traditional technique of Milanese mesh while respecting the codes of the company. The
colour shades reflect the colours of Dior
par excellence: grey, pink and gold.
Christian Dior said that grey “is the
most elegant of all the neutral colours.
Everything goes with grey and so it is
the recommended colour for accessories” while pink was said to be “the
colour of happiness and femininity”.
La D de Dior Satine comprises seven
models with a quartz movement of two
different diameters: 19 and 25 mm.
La Mini D de Dior
Satine, Dior.
Several versions are available: three
steel watches with dials in grey, pink
and white mother-of-pearl, two watches
in rose gold and yellow gold and two
steel watches with dials in white and
black mother of pearl.
Launched in 2010, the Dior Grand
Soir watches represent the very best of
haute horlogerie. They are richly decorated and set with precious stones,
blending virtuoso jewellery making with
avant-garde creativity and exceptional
mechanisms. The company is presenting its latest addition to this line at
Baselworld: the Dior KaléiDiorscope
watch. The Dior Grand Soir collection
also features eight new and unique
pieces inspired by the embroidery on
Dior dresses, observed through a kaleidoscope. The large dials incorporate
mother-of-pearl, ornamental stones, polished gold petals and precious stones
which reflect infinite decoration. In
order to encompass a level of modernity
fitting to the company, Victoire de
Castellane contrasts denim straps with
precious sapphires and diamonds.
La D de Dior
Satine, Dior.
Dior KaléiDiorscope
N°3, Dior.
The Dior VIII Grand Bal collection
launched in 2011 pays homage to
Christian Dior’s passion for lavish celebrations. This year, a new range entitled
Grand Bal Ondine, comprising
12 unique pieces, are added to the Dior
VIII Grand Bal collection. The new and
extremely feminine jewellery watches
are powered by the automatic Dior
Inversé calibre. Inspired by the untameable beauty of molten gold, the shapes
of the oscillating masses are reminiscent
of moving fabric – sometimes folded,
sometimes puckered – like a twirling
ball gown. These pieces feature dials
which are sometimes snow-set and
sometimes set with diamond pavé,
based on a weave pattern which reflects
the delicate fabric of a dress. The leather
straps reflect the colour gold of their
cases. Just like the hours which go into
creating a ball gown, using metres of
fabric, 18 months of work were invested
feato create each of the complication fea
tures for the watches developed by the
Dior watchmaking workshops, based in
1.1, B39
La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Dior Grand Bal Ondine
N°10, Dior.
Avenger Bandit,
Breitling.
PURISM AND A TOUCH OF
PORSCHE’S HERITAGE
PORSCHE DE SIGN RE T URNS T O BA SELWORLD
by Sabine Zwet tler
P
orsche Design is present with a
stand of its own at Baselworld for
the first time in 2016. The watch
brand premieres its new 1919 collection,
which was conceived at its design studio
in Zell am See, Austria and fabricated at
Porsche Design Timepieces AG in Solothurn, Switzerland. This collection,
which brings the timeless charisma of the
Bauhaus School to the wrist, references
the firm’s legendary Founder Prof. F. A.
Porsche, who attended the Design
Academy in Ulm. The new collection is
inspired by the Bauhaus School, which
was established in Dessau in 1919 and
ranked among the world’s most important design academies. In keeping with
its maxim, the three-handed 1919
Datetimer Eternity Black Edition celebrates the high art of minimalism. The
timepiece’s colour scheme and its combination of materials pay homage to the
unique elegance of the Porsche 356 from
the 1950s. Porsche Design celebrated
two premieres in the world of watches in
the 1970s and in 1980: the first matte
black watch and the first titanium timepiece. The new 1919 Datetimer Eternity
Black debuts in a titanium case measuring 42 millimetres in diameter. The
characteristic openwork on the horns and
the fluent transition to the wristband
imbue this timepiece with an aura of
lightness. A self-winding calibre from
Sellita serves as the mechanical “engine”
of this new watch, which is available with
a black rubber strap or a brown leather
wristband.
With its premiere participation on its
own at Baselworld, Porsche Design
underscores the relevance of the watch
segment to this brand’s overall strategy.
“Porsche Design is a sporty lifestyle
brand with high design competence”,
affirms Dr. Christian Kurtzke, CEO of
the Porsche Design Group. “Specialised
dealers can rely on us to offer timelessly
elegant, purist watches with a special
1.0, C37
touch of Porsche heritage.”
1919 Datetimer
Eternity Black
Edition, Porsche
Design.
ONE SWIPE OF THE
SCREEN AND YOU’LL
REALIZE IT DOESN’T
HAVE A SCREEN.
THE CANFIELD. IT’S JUST SMART ENOUGH.™
DETROIT • NEW YORK • LONDON
BASELWORLD
HALL 1. 2
SHINOL A .COM
BOOTH A 23
16 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
FRIDAY, MARCH 18.2016
“A UNIQUE WORK OF ART”
THE BEE’S KNEES
F E N D I T I M E P I E C E S L A U N C H E S A L L- N E W P O L I C R O M I A L I N E
G U C C I D E B U T S N E W G -T I M E L E S S W AT C H E S
I n t e r v i e w b y R o b e r ta N a a s
by Iris Wimmer -Olbort
U
nder the aegis of Alessandro
Michele as Creative Director of
Gucci, the Italian brand has
established a new, distinctive and highly
praised style. In jewellery and watches,
this is evident in dreamy designs that are
combined with a clear and clean style. A
new favourite in this world is the bee – a
motif that can now be found on a new
automatic watch from Gucci: The
G-Timeless combines a mechanical movement with a distinctive decorated dial.
Perfectly fitting the context, little stars,
bees and a heart serve as hour markers.
G-Timeless, Gucci.
1.0, D49
GOING TO EXTREMES
J A C O B & C O. P U L L S O U T A L L T H E S T O P S W I T H
THE NEW X TREME TOURBILLON
Domenico Oliveri,
CEO of Fendi Timepieces.
F
is the reason why we will continue presenting some of our timepieces during
the Fendi fashion shows, enhancing our
strong and timeless DNA.
endi Timepieces, fully
owned by the eponymous
fine Italian design house,
blends high-quality watchmaking and innovation for
the luxury market. Here, Domenico
Oliveri, CEO of Fendi Timepieces,
discusses the brand’s products and
direction for the year ahead.
BWDN: How is Fendi Timepieces
poised for 2016 in terms of direction
and product allocation?
Domenico Oliveri: Fendi Timepieces is
going upmarket by blending Fendi’s
Roman heritage with Swiss watchmaking expertise and creating innovative
high-quality watches. We want to
surprise our clientele with visionary
concepts respecting our Roman heritage, and 2016 represents a year of
strong changes in the direction
described above. Our goal is to offer
additional extensions to our current
collections, which comprise iconic
timepieces, such as the Crazy Carats,
Selleria, and signature ones like the
Fendi My Way, the Chameleon and
Momento Fendi, each sophisticated
and elegant with its own unique allure.
Policromia, Fendi Timepieces.
Is there also a new line?
Yes, this year we are also launching a
new iconic collection, Policromia,
designed in collaboration with Delfina
Delettrez Fendi, a globally renowned
jewellery designer and fourth-generation member of the Fendi family. It
represents the quintessence of daring
creativity and innovation, together
with the obsession for the highest
quality – values that exactly represent
our credo.
What 2016 products are you most
enthusiastic about this year and why?
I’m really proud of the new 2016 key
launch: the Policromia collection. This
exclusive collection offers a unique
work of art that combines colours on
different surfaces, multiple shaded
pieces, precious inserts and asymmetrical bezels made in noble materials,
shaping the watch’s daring silhouette
with a unique 3D effect. It enhances
the importance of time, innovation and
evolution of the watch’s design. I’m
also very enthusiastic about the overall
Fendi Timepieces Collection, because
it is a really wide and complete range.
Are Fendi Timepieces still being used
on the runway?
Fendi Timepieces’ positioning in the
watch industry reflects its unique
vision, which is directly linked to
Fendi’s culture and heritage. Our timepieces convey the Roman Maison’s
values through an innate passion for
design, high quality and creativity. This
Are there any significant colours or
patterns that are emerging in Fendi
Timepieces this year?
We continue to infuse our collections
with innovative designs, precious materials and surprising colour combinations.
The introduction of 18k gold cases and
dials in the Policromia and Crazy Carats
collections, precious mineral stones in
Policromia and high-tech elements in
mother of pearl or ceramic in the new
Fendi My Way collection give an added
value to our novelties.
New to the exclusive Policromia
collection are the brilliant-cut white
diamonds set on the case and dial,
paired with refined inserts of natural
stones – malachite, lapis lazuli, pink
opal, leopard jasper skin, tiger eye,
obsidian and mother of pearl. White
and yellow gold enhanced by goldplated black rhodium adds timeless
value. We are exploring preciousness
and uniqueness; we want to surprise
our clientele and elicit emotions from
them by proposing luxury timepieces
that combine the highest quality materials with the most innovative features,
creating something really unique.
What else can you share with us about
Fendi Timepieces that Baselworld
visitors should know?
Fendi Timepieces has redesigned the
entrance of the stand inspired by the
new Policromia design, enhancing the
brand values and unique vision. The
name “Policromia” comes from the
Greek words “poly” (multiple) and
“khrōma” (colour), embodying the idea
of several colours together, mystically
recalling a surreal goddess living in a
faraway world. The result is a visionary
entrance, which beautifully highlights
the precious stones – essential compo1.1, D59
nents of the new watches.
B
illed as a “Twin Turbo Twin
Triple Axis Tourbillon Minute
Repeater”, the new haute horlogerie piece from Jacob & Co. will have
you doing a double take.
The watch is a world premiere
timepiece that offers not just one
triple-axis tourbillon, but two – side by
side on the lower portion of the engineshaped watch. Additionally, the double
triple-axis tourbillon is equipped with
a repeater system that chimes the
hours, ten-minute segments and minutes. It accomplishes this musical feat
with two hammers. A double mechanical safety feature is in place during the
chiming sequence to ensure the movement is not accidentally pushed again
and damaged.
The calibre, made exclusively for
Jacob & Co., features a regulator
between the two triple-axis tourbillon
carriages. As to the twin tourbillons
they each feature three axes: one flying
in 40 seconds, one in three minutes,
and one in eight minutes for a beautifully orchestrated dance of rhythm and
undulation.
The manual-wind JCFM01 movement, with 572 parts, was two years in
the research and development stages,
and when it comes time to assemble
each watch, one watchmaker is designated to assemble the two triple-axis
tourbillons – over a two-week time
period. A second watchmaker then
spends four weeks building the
Decimal Minute Repeater portion of
the watch. Another 3,000 hours of
machining and 300 hours of decoration
– by a team of 20 expert artisans –
brings the timepiece to fruition.
The watch itself is an extraordinary shape that resembles a racecar
engine in cushion-shaped inverted
triangular-like shape. It offers 72 hours
of power reserve and features a flywheel regulator. It is an incredible
sight to see and looks even better on
1.1, B31
the wrist.
Twin Turbo Twin Triple Axis Tourbillon Minute Repeater, Jacob & Co.
20 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
“ANOTHER RECORD YEAR”
Big Ben watch,
Mido.
M I D O I S E X PA N D I N G I T S M A R K E T S A N D I T S L A D I E S’ W AT C H R A N G E
S
wiss-made Mido watches are
enjoying growth, especially in
Europe. President Franz
Linder tells us about a new
“architectural” watch chosen
by the brand’s worldwide fans, fresh
additions to its iconic lines, and a new
thin collection for the 40th anniversary
of a popular family of the brand.
BWDN: Mr. Linder, how was 2015 for
Mido and what is your focus in 2016?
Franz Linder: 2015 was another record
year for Mido. We were able to grow our
business in most markets, including
China, but Europe especially showed a
significant increase. Our focus is always
on our existing markets, but in Europe,
we plan to further expand our markets.
Franz Linder,
President of Mido.
NEWS
What can ladies expect for 2016?
For ladies, we have some new models in
the Belluna collection with sophisticated mother-of-pearl dials. Our main focus
in 2016, however, is the Baroncelli,
because we are celebrating the 40th
anniversary of this family. For this occasion, we are launching the Baroncelli
Heritage. It is a beautiful collection in
line with the typical classic, elegant and
timeless design spirit of this family. At
the same time, we were able to make it
with a thickness of less than seven millimetres; it is one of the slimmest automatic watches in its category.
1.0, A25B
GETTING READY
TO SUBMERGE
NEW CALIBRE FOR
PRESIDENTS’ WATCH
H A M I LT O N R E V I V E S L E G E N D A R Y V I N TA G E
F RO GMEN’S T IMEPIECE
V U L C A I N H O N O U R S P R E S I D E N T S’ W AT C H
COLLEC T ION WI T H A NE W MODEL AND MOVEMEN T
by Sabine Zwet tler
Interview by carol besler
T
his year, Hamilton is relaunching one of its legendary timepieces from the past, the Khaki
Navy Frogman watch, which was first
produced in 1943 as a special military
edition. Specifically created for the elite
force of the U.S. Underwater Demolition Team called “Frogmen”, the watch
also starred in the 1951 smash-hit movie
“The Frogmen.” The new sporty and
rugged collection matches style with
function in an appealing choice of variaKhaki Navy Frogman,
Hamilton.
ORIS – The Swiss brand has updated
its Artelier Chronometer Date watch,
which has passed the rigorous tests of
the COSC institute. Its stainless steel
case has a new diameter of 40 mm and
frames a sophisticated guilloche dial
with rose gold indices and hands that
have been inspired by the timeless
design of Art Deco. The Artelier
Chronometer Date is driven by automatic calibre 737, based on SW 200-1.
The sapphire case back reveals the
characteristic red rotor, the symbol of
1.0, D35
Oris mechanicals. (sz)
In 2015, Mido invited the public to
choose the design for its new Big Ben
watch from three watch designers’
entries. Named after London’s famous
clock tower, the piece is being unveiled
here at Baselworld. What was the idea
behind this contest and will this be an
annual event ?
Mido’s collections are inspired by architecture. The design of some collections
is even directly based on a building. Our
aim was, on the one hand, to share the
design process of a Mido watch – the
designers’ work and inspiration from
start to finish – with fans of the brand.
But we also wanted to involve our consumers by letting them choose their
preferred design and decide on a future
product. Almost 100,000 people from
nearly 100 countries took part in the
vote. We were really impressed by the
interest it attracted. It is not our aim to
do a contest like this every year – but
why not once in a while? Listening and
learning from our customers can obviously only be beneficial for the brand.
The Big Ben watch by winning designer
Sebastien Perret is limited to 500 pieces
and comes in a special box, which was
also designed by Perret and inspired by
Big Ben.
Besides Big Ben, what else is new for
Mido in its iconic Commander and
Multifort collections?
In the Commander collection, we are
offering an exclusive chronograph with a
COSC-certified movement in a limited
edition of 999 pieces. The highlight in
the Multifort family is a model, which
– on top of its typical characteristics –
reflects a touch of adventure. Furthermore, we are launching a new generation of our historical Ocean Star collection, where you can find one of Mido’s
very few titanium watches.
tions. All of them are equipped with the
original 1951 stunning crown-protection
device in its inimitable military-canteen
design. In keeping with its double billing
as a diving instrument and a statement
piece, the 2016 standout 46 mm titanium model is clearly built to meet the
demands of its underwater vocation.
Large surfaces ensure easy readability
and high-tech specs include a unidirectional rotating bezel. The latter frames a
dial with luminescent triple-faceted
hands. The red-trimmed tip of the
seconds hand highlights its role as an
operating indicator. The solid case back
bearing a scuba diver motif is a nod to
this model’s maritime mission. Other
key features are the water resistance to
1,000 metres and a helium valve to equal
out internal and external pressures in
saturation diving conditions. The collection also comprises 42 mm stainless steel
versions that are water resistant to
300 metres. These models are available
in two colours with a blue or black bezel
(as well as matching dial and strap) to
suit individual tastes. All are powered by
Hamilton’s automatic calibre H-10,
which amasses a power reserve of 80
1.0, A25E
hours.
W
ith its black dial and polished
steel case, the Vulcain 50s
Presidents’ Watch Tradition
42 is not only one of the most stylish of
the Presidents’ Watch series but the
most technically advanced. It contains
the brand’s new Vulcain manufacture
movement, the Calibre V-40. The movement is a 12-lignes mechanical handwound calibre with 24 jewels, 162 components and double barrels for a 42-hour
power reserve. It has a frequency of
18,000 Vph. Decoration includes blued
screws and skeleton ratchets while its
functions comprise centre hour and
minute hands, a small seconds hand at
eight o’clock and an alarm function
between three and four o’clock on the
dial. The alarm has a duration of about
20 seconds. The movement is equipped
with the brand’s Exactomatic system,
an innovation patented in 1946 that
equalises the friction on the balance
wheel axis, resulting in a more regular
amplitude. This improves accuracy. The
strap is matte black or gold-coloured
Louisiana alligator, with the choice of a
steel pin buckle or a steel folding clasp.
The case is 42 mm-wide, and the watch
is water resistant to 50 metres. The
Presidents’ Watch, part of the Cricket
collection, commemorates the fact that
American Presidents Dwight Eisenhower, Harry Truman, Richard Nixon
and Lyndon Johnson all wore a Vulcain
1.1, A71
on their wrist.
50s Presidents’ Watch Tradition 42, Vulcain.
THE WORLD’S FIRST
CURVED CHRONOGRAPH
MOVEMENT.
and Bulova are registered trademarks. © 2016 Bulova Corporation.
A HISTORY OF MODERN.
HALL 1.1 BOOTH B83
BASELWORLD 2016
HALL 1.2 / STAND A45
Timepieces developed for the game of golf,
worn by pros and licensed by St Andrews
Links. Model BRAZIL to celebrate the return
of Golf to the Olympic Games for the first time
since 1904. Available from specialist retailers.
www.jaermann-stuebi.com
Booth A71 / Hall 1.1
© 2016 ST ANDREWS LINKS LIMITED
24 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
ECO-DRIVE ONE
BUILT ON EXPERIENCE
OF NOBLE
DESCENT
PEQUIGNE T ADDS T WO
N E W C O M P L I C AT I O N S
T O I T S C A L I B R E R O YA L
COLLEC T ION
C I T I Z E N U N V E I L S T H I N N E S T L I G H T- D R I V E N W AT C H
T
by Sabine Zwet tler
the challenge of merging a watch’s three
essential roles: beauty, wearing comfort,
and sustainability.
oshio Tokura, President
and CEO of Citizen
Watch Co., Ltd., tells
Baselworld Daily News
how the brand’s newest
Eco-Drive timepieces embody its 40
years experience in light-powered technology and how they set new standards
for watches.
BWDN: Mr. Tokura, 2016 has special
significance for Citizen, doesn’t it?
Tell us why.
Toshio Tokura: 2016 is an important
milestone for Citizen. It marks 40 years
since Citizen invented the world’s first
watch that uses light as a power source
and launched it, using Citizen’s proprietary light-driven Eco-Drive technology.
To mark this major event, we are presenting at Baselworld our newest flagship model Eco-Drive One.
It is the world’s thinnest light-powered analogue quartz watch with a 2.98mm case and a 1 mm movement. With
its state-of-the-art light-driven mechanism and beautiful ultra-thin sleek
design, it is a pleasure to wear.
Despite numerous technical constraints to overcome, we never compromised our aim to make better watches
and have always kept making improve-
NEWS
Eco-Drive One, Citizen.
ments. For example, in spite of its thinness, Eco-Drive One runs ten months
on a single full charge, even if stored in
the dark. Only our low-power technology for reducing energy consumption
makes this design and function possible.
Eco-Drive One also uses new materials
for the case and bezel.
With these features, we expect this
new model in light-power technology to
set a new level for watches.
At the same time, we believe this is
only the start of our next chapter in
exploring the future of watches as a true
manufacture d’horlogerie, dealing with
Are there other important Eco-Drive
debuts at Baselworld?
In 2016, we have consolidated our 40
years experience in light-power technology in new models that set new standards for watches. One is the new Promaster Satellite Wave – GPS (Cal. F900)
pilot watch, the latest in the Citizen
Eco-Drive GPS satellite-synchronized
series. It brings even more accurate time
to people around the world. First
launched in 2011, the Citizen Eco-Drive
Satellite Wave watches “sync” with GPS
satellites to get information for automatic time and calendar correction. As a
pioneer in this technology, we have
added many improvements. This new
Satellite Wave – GPS (Cal. F900) model
incorporates both Eco-Drive and
Satellite Wave technologies.
There’s also the Citizen Ambiluna
line of ladies’ watches. With architect
Sou Fujimoto as a design advisor, this
ladies’ collection looks at watch design in
a new light. It embodies a completely
original style of luxury watch for women
who embrace their 21st century lives
with beauty and power.
Toshio Tokura, President and CEO,
Citzen Watch Co., Ltd.
Has the slowdown in Asia, especially
China, affected Citizen’s business?
Actually, the slowdown in China has not
affected us, because of the satisfactory
performances of Japan and North
America. In China, we still have strong
presence and try to keep this position,
as we regard it a very important market
place.
In 2015, Citizen received several prestigious retail, advertising and design
awards. What do such awards mean to
Citizen retailers and consumers?
We believe awards are great opportunities for them to learn more about who
Citizen is and the thoughts behind our
watchmaking, and they also help to raise
our presence in the industry. 1.1, E91
CONCORD’S IMPRESARIO
MAKES A BIG RETURN
A C L A S S I C W I T H V I N T A G E I N S P I R AT I O N S I N M O D E R N I N T E R P R E T AT I O N S
I
TECHNOMARINE – New this year is
the Titanium from the Reef Collection,
which is built for the depths. The
48 mm case, made of titanium, is
water-resistant down to 100 metres and
has a sporty style. The dial is made of
carbon and the strap consists of silicone
offering a variety of colour options. The
watch runs on a quartz calibre, featuring a day/date function and a chrono1.2, B49
graph counter. (cb)
t is a grand year of re-launch for
Concord, which is unveiling the newly revamped Impresario collection
for men and women. Introduced to the
world in 1998, the Impresario was always
a strong, round design distinguished by
superior craftsmanship and clean lines.
Part of heritage product strategy, the
new Impresario marks the third pillar in
the brand’s re-launch strategy. (Over the
past few years, Concord has systematically re-launched much-loved lines such
as the Saratoga and the Mariner).
“We are re-imagining the 1990’s
Impresario line for today’s consumers,”
explains Efraim Grinberg, CEO of the
Movado Group, under whose auspices
Concord falls. “It is a classic, elegant
timepiece, and we will offer it in updated
steel and gold two-tone versions with
two-tone bracelets. It is more of a heritage classic collection than some of the
other previous Concord offerings.”
Indeed, the new line includes
32 mm round cased watches for women
and 41 mm versions for men. Crafted in
stainless steel and rose gold, the watches
offer striking appeal. The women’s versions have sophisticated accents such as
mother-of-pearl dials, inner diamond setting on the dial, and a choice of diamond
set cases and bracelet lugs. With goldplated hands and markers and a coinedged case side, the watch is a definite
statement of individuality.
The men’s version has three hands
with date aperture at 3 o’clock. It is
impressive thanks to a big silver dial with
gold hands and numerals and gold-plated
bezel on a steel coin-edged case. The
Ladies’ Impresario,
Concord.
bracelet features two-tone matte and polished links. There is also a minute track
on the dial that adds that touch of retro.
Several other models are being
offered but all convey the same sense of
power, sophistication and elegance that
was inherent in the collection several
decades ago and has been reawakened in
1.0, A111
style.
Rue Royale GMT, Pequignet.
P
equignet opens the next chapter
in its successful manufacture
story called “Calibre Royal”, first
introduced in 2010. Entirely designed,
prototyped, tested and assembled in
the 33-year-old French brand’s Haute
Horlogerie laboratories in Morteau, it
benefits from eight international
patents and amasses a power reserve of
88 hours. This year at Baselworld, the
Rue Royale GMT takes centre stage,
now featuring a day/night indicator and
a GMT function. These are the fourth
and fifth complications on the Calibre
Royal, taking their place beside the
large date calendar, power reserve and
moon phase.
In this model, a day/night indicator
replaces the traditional moon phase at
6 o’clock. The second UTC time band
is at 4 o’clock. The big challenge was to
add a new function to the timepiece
without disturbing the legibility.
“Adding another window would have
cluttered the watch, which has a subtle, carefully thought-out aesthetic
balance,” explains Pequignet’s CEO
Laurent Katz. “To maintain this, we’ve
placed the second time band inside the
small seconds display at 4 o’clock. We
then refined the finishing on each
hand, making them quicker and easier
to read: for the second time band, a
slim hand with a red SuperLuminova
arrow tip, and for the small seconds
hand, a fine silver tip – both of them
gliding over a sun-brushed counter.”
The assembly is adjusted using the
watch’s single crown. Automatic
Calibre Royal EPM05 ticks inside a
42 mm stainless steel case, which is
water-resistant to 100 metres and
features a sapphire case back revealing
the beautiful decorations such as
0F. Palace 5A
Geneva Stripes.
Mastercraft Collection-Ultrathin Tourbillon
Co-branding by FIYTA and Beijing
18K rose gold case, thickness 6.5mm
Fine polished movement with hollowed case back
Sapphire crystal
Calfskin leather strap
3ATM water resistance
Limited to 10 pieces
www.fiyta.com.cn www.facebook.com/fiyta Hall 1.1, Booth B87
28 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
FOLLOW THE MOON
T H E A C A D É M I E H O R L O G È R E D E S C R É AT E U R S I N D É P E N D E N T S P R E S E N T S U N I Q U E H O R O L O G I C A L D E L I G H T S
by Elizabeth Doerr
I
f you are looking for a place to
see unique, imaginative, and
unusual horology look no further
than the Académie Horlogère
des Créateurs Indépendents
stand in Hall 2.0. You are certain to see
things in watches here that you have
never seen before.
Twelve members of the current 34
members of the grouping of independent creators lovingly known in the
industry as “the Academy” are exhibiting at the common stand at Baselworld
this year: Svend Andersen, Hajime
Asaoka, Robert Bray, Vincent Calabrese,
Konstantin Chaykin, Miki Eleta, Beat
Haldimann, Frank Jutzi, Sebastian
Naeschke, Rainer Nienaber, Antoine
Preziuso, and Andreas Strehler as well
as candidates Kim Djapri and Xu
Jiabao.
Many of the new inventions revolve
around moon phases – like Rainer
Nienaber’s latest a watch simply called
“Moon Phase.” Though he is a specialist for retrograde, this timepiece features a large moon phase indication
added to base a ETA 2836-2 movement. The unusual pattern on
the dial is also something that
Nienaber creates himself
using a milling machine to
underscore the exciting
interplay of light and shadow.
Andreas Strehler is the
world record holder for the
Secular Perpetual Calendar,
Svend Andersen.
NEWS
most precise moon phase display in a
mechanical timepiece: the Sauterelle à
Lune Perpétuelle was entered into the
Guinness Book of World Records in
January 2015. It deviates by only one
full day in 2,060,757 years. Here at
Baselworld, he presents the Lune
Exacte, a new wristwatch that allows
the wearer to read and set this incredible complication accurately. No matter
how precise this moon may mechanically be, it cannot be read off nearly as
precisely.
Co-Founder Svend Andersen
celebrates 20 years of the Secular
Perpetual Calendar model he created
in 1996 with a limited edition of 20
platinum watches with a hand-guilloché dial in platinum and his signature
blue gold. Day and date are displayed
on the front of the watch along with a
“special” day indication; the back displays the secular calendar. Years exist
within our calendar system that should
by all rights be leap years, but are not
because they are simply not required.
These are called secular years and
occur every time the first year of a century is not divisible by 400. Andersen’s
Perpetual Secular Calendar takes these
into account.
A clock specialist from the Black
Forest, Sebastian Naeschke presents a
new table clock called NT 9 whose dial
is the highlight, though the 14-day
power reserve of Calibre 9 beating at
Lune Exacte,
Andreas Strehler.
CLASSIC STYLE WITH
CONTEMPOR ARY DESIGN
DOUBLY BEAUTIFUL
HOUSE OF FLORRIE T IMEPIECES
H AV E A G R A N D E N T R A N C E
by Sabine Zwet tler
by Carol Besler
ebuting at the Inter City Group
stand at Baselworld 2016, the
House of Florrie is renowned
for its beautifully designed timepieces,
with each one featuring detailed hand
drawn elements, complemented by a
colour palette of soft feminine tones
and contemporary hues and shades. The
latest new model, the Isla, is an elegant
36-mm timepiece from House of
Florrie’s spring/summer 2016 collection.
This attractive design boasts a smooth,
round-edged stainless steel case with a
satin finish and gold colour plating. A
clean matt white dial is detailed with
intricate beaded markers and sharp,
leaf-shaped polished gold colour plated
hands, complete with a soft luxury tan
leather strap and satin finish buckle
fastening. The Isla is also available in
rose gold satin finish with a white soft
luxury leather strap, as well as rose gold
colour and gold colour plated stainless
1.2, B09
steel mesh strap models.
RADO INTRODUCES THE TRUE
THINLINE SKELE TON
A
s its name explicitly declares, the
new True Thinline Skeleton
unites two time-honoured virtues of classical watchmaking. First, this
model is uncommonly slim: its black
high-tech ceramic case is only 7.8 mm
tall. As usual for Rado’s cases, this one
too is lightweight and scratch resistant.
D
CALVIN KLEIN WATCHES +
JEWELRY – Three new timepieces join
the ranks of the Calvin Klein infinite
automatic. The watch, which is driven
by Swiss automatic movement ETA
2824-2, is available with a stainless steel
case and a metal bracelet or a leather
strap. The third variant has stainless
steel rose gold PVD case which boasts a
chocolate brown dial and leather strap.
The case has a diameter of 42 mm and
features a mineral glass to reveal the
movement ticking within. 1.0, D25C
one hertz (14,400 vph) is no slouch,
either. Its matte-blasted and gilt base
dial surrounded by a polished and
screwed frame is entirely handmade,
including engravings in the form of a
traditional diamond pattern with
flowers engraved in the crossed
points. Even the numerals are
finely hand-engraved. Both
dials’ matte, silvery sheen is
created by using the very
old method of silver grainage. It is housed in a
black-stained
cherry
wood case with gilt
metal inlays.
Co-Founder Vincent
Calabrese has something
special up his sleeve this
year: a gem-set wristwatch called Ora that
delights the eye with its
jumping dial. This timepiece is fully customizable.
The customer can choose to
use 12 identical stones or
12 different gems of varying
colour, size, and quality – all of
which are used to mark the hour in
a decorative way underneath the dial.
When the dial containing conventional
hands jumps, the next gem is revealed.
The customer has the choice of manual
wind, automatic, or quartz movement
and even the frequency at which it
Hall 2.0, C15
beats.
Isla, House of Florrie.
True Thinline Skeleton, Rado.
Second, its meticulously skeletonised
and black-coated movement offers
unobstructed views of the microcosm
embodied by automatic Calibre ETA
2892-S2, which is, of course, likewise
extraordinarily slim. The True Thinline
Skeleton is produced in a limited
1.0, D25B
edition of 99 models.
eterna.com
G O LD E N HE A RT LIM ITE D EDI TI ON
160TH ANNIVERSARY
HALL 5.0
STAND A01
HALL 1.2 BOOTH B41
32 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
NEWS
SINN CELEBRATES WITH
THREE LIMITED EDITIONS
AEROWATCH – The Swiss brand from
Saignelégier adds a beautiful ladies’
timepiece to its 1942 Butterfly collection. As the name implies, butterflies
adorn its delicate mother-of-pearl dial.
They change their colour every hour. A
diamond is set at 12 o’clock. The watch
is powered by a quartz movement with
date indication at 6 o’clock. The stainless steel case has a diameter of 35 mm
and is attached to a leather strap or a
metal bracelet. The edition is limited to
2.0, C37
888 pieces. (sz)
C E O L O T H A R S C H M I D T P R E S E N T S T H E N E W W AT C H E S O F 2 016
Interview by Sabine Zwet tler
S
inn Spezialuhren, which is
headquartered in Frankfurt,
Germany, celebrates its 55th
anniversary this year. This
brand has a very strong affinity for high-technology and the art of
engineering, both of which optimize the
robustness of wristwatches. Additionally, Sinn Spezialuhren was instrumental
in recently promoting the creation of a
new German industrial standard for
pilot’s watches.
BWDN: Sinn Spezialuhren looks back
this year on the 55 years of its successful history. Will special activities
accompany this anniversary?
Lothar Schmidt: Yes. Among other
events to celebrate our anniversary,
we’re also launching three limited-edition timepieces, each of which uniquely
represents Sinn Spezialuhren. Model
6200 Meisterbund I expresses the fine
art of German engineering; the 910
Jubiläum column-wheel chronograph
especially stands for chronographs,
which comprise a large portion of our
product portfolio; and the 556 Jubiläum
is an elegant, sleekly simple example of
our instrumental watches. We’re concentrating on being able to present
handsome and interesting new watches
and on building the basis for the ongoing success of Sinn Spezialuhren.
What were the most important milestones in your brand’s history?
It’s difficult for me to mention only a
few because each newly developed
technology embodies a milestone in its
own right. Of course, it’s also a milestone for us every time a professional
user chooses one of our watches and
relies upon it as his preferred timemeasuring instrument, especially if the
timepiece is associated with a famous
name or event and wasn’t part of a
staged advertising campaign. For example, the record-setting jump from the
stratosphere by an American parachutist
earned our 857 UTC model a place in
the National Air and Space Museum in
Washington, D.C. The recent opening
Model 910 column-wheel
chronograph, Sinn Spezialuhren.
of the first Sinn subsidiary at Römerberg
in Frankfurt likewise deserves mention
as another milestone. So too does the
launch of the new DIN 8330 pilot’s
watches. This new industrial standard
was initiated by us. And there is also the
laying of the cornerstone for our new
headquarters, which took place in
Frankfurt am Main in 2015.
Sinn Spezialuhren is well known for its
innovative technologies, which
improve a watch’s sturdiness in daily
use. Which technologies deserve special mention in this context?
We develop our watches for specific missions and specific applications. The
individual technologies are usually
assigned to a particular purpose, so it’s
not easy to emphasize one of these technologies above all the others. Each technology serves its intended purpose and
all of them are highly recommendable.
They also offer significant benefits to
ordinary people who simply wear and
use wristwatches in their daily lives.
The development of the DIAPAL technology, which debuted in 2001, was a
special challenge. It enables a mechanical watch to run reliably for many years
without the need for lubricants or maintenance.
Your new headquarters are scheduled
to be inaugurated later this year. What
are your plans for the near future?
We surely won’t open our new headquarters until January 2017. This major
expansion of our premises and production facilities naturally lays an important cornerstone for our future. For the
foreseeable future, we plan to concentrate on this and on the further evolution of our products and technologies.
2.2, C30
Certified engineer Lothar
Schmidt, CEO of Sinn
Spezialuhren.
GR AND SEIKO EXPANDS
ITS HORIZONS
N E W S P O R T S W AT C H E S E N T E R T H E M A R K E T
by William George Shuster
G
rand Seiko, the luxury brand of
Seiko Watch Co., has added a
new sports watch line: The
46.4 mm automatic Black Ceramic.
There are four models, all with Seiko’s
Spring Drive calibres – two GMTs and
two chronographs.
The materials and five-piece construction of each watch are designed for
strength and lightness. The inner case
is made from high-intensity titanium
and the outer shells and bezel are zirconia ceramic, which Seiko says is stronger and tougher than other fine ceramics
and seven times harder than stainless
steel. Even so, the combination of
materials makes the case 25 percent
lighter than stainless steel and scratchresistant, according to Seiko.
The two movements (Spring Drive
GMT and Spring Drive chronograph)
are precise to plus/minus 10 seconds
per month, and have a 72-hour power
reserve. The Grand Seiko lion logo in
gold on the oscillating weight symbolizes the enhanced accuracy of each.
The watches feature a dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, screw-in see-through case back,
and a screwdown crown. They are
water-resistant to ten bar (100 metres,
330 feet).
All four models are limited editions
but the chronograph with a green dial
with a fir tree motif on it (symbolising
the location in Japan where the watch
was designed) has 600 pieces. The
other three (the other chronograph and
both GMTs) each come in 500 pieces.
1.1, D79 & D83
Black Ceramic
Chronograph,
Grand Seiko.
BULOVA DEBUTS INNOVATIVE CURV
T H E W AT C H I S T H E W O R L D ’ S F I R S T C U R V E D C H R O N O G R A P H
by Willliam George Shuster
A
Curv chronograph,
Bulova.
s the name suggests, Bulova’s
new Curv chronograph watch collection uses the world’s first
curved chronograph movement, a marvel
of technical engineering, in an ultra-slim
watch case with a sleek, ergonomic
design. The Bulova Curv, says the company, “reimagines what a watch should
be. It is the perfect synthesis of avant-
garde thinking, expert craftsmanship and
superior quality – hallmarks of Bulova’s
creativity since 1875.” The design and
development of the movement took
more than two years, due to its complexity. Its accuracy is three times greater
than normal quartz movements, according to Bulova. The high-performance
movement has a special three-pronged
quartz crystal with a frequency eight
times greater (262 kilohertz) than
standard quartz crystals. Development
difficulties included not only the movement itself, but also the watch’s curved
case, crystal, dial and hands, all designed
and manufactured for the thinnest possible profile. The 12-piece Curv collection caters to men and is available with
a diameter of 43 to 45 mm. It offers a
variety of dress and sport styles. The
watches are stainless steel, with the
touchstone model in titanium. Two styles
feature an open aperture dial and exhibition caseback. The sub dial at 6 o’clock
doubles for seconds and chrono seconds.
The watch is water-resistant to 100 feet
1.1, B83
and has a black rubber strap.
S TA N D
2
.
1
L
L
HA
A53
GREAT STYLE IN TIME
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SWISS MADE
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H a l l 1. 2. B oot H e 27
For men who don’t
need GPS
to know where they stand.
Saxon One
It’s our rough edges that testify real character. The Saxon One
with its edgy, timeless design lends this conviction a new form: elegant, dynamic, distinctive.
And created with exactly that perfection which has made
the predicate “Made in Glashütte” into a world-famous promise of quality.
Saxon One · Sweep minute stop chronograph · 6420-04
MADE FOR THOSE WHO DO.
Please visit us at
Hall 1.1 · Stand D87
www.tutima.com
TUTIMA UHRENFABRIK GMBH NDL. GLASHÜTTE
01768 Glashütte/Sa. ∙ Germany ∙ Tel. +49 35053 320 20 ∙ info@tutima.com
36 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
CHARRIOL CONTINUES ITS
INTERNATIONAL BREAKTHROUGH
F O U N D E R P H I L I P P E C H A R R I O L H A S T H E L AT E S T C O M PA N Y A N D P R O D U C T N E W S
I n t e r v i e w b y Ky r a B r e n z i n g e r
C
harriol was created by
Philippe Charriol almost
30 years ago and remains
an independent company.
Today it offers a wide
range of products from watches to jewellery, leather goods and perfumes. Its
founder Philippe Charriol explains this
success in an exclusive interview.
BWDN: What are your primary
strands for development at an international level?
Philippe Charriol: The brand has a
strong presence in the Middle East and
Asia and is also flourishing in the United
States and Central America as well as on
the European markets. In 2015, the
company continued to expand its retail
sales network and to renovate its
network of boutiques, including the
285 stores in China since Asia is one of
the key markets with an increasing
number of watch customers.
How important is Europe still in your
development strategy?
We are pursuing our development work
in Europe and our PR campaigns led by
my wife Marie-Olga so as to increase our
reputation and establish our brand
image on the continent. We derive the
very essence of our creativity and manufacturing from France and Switzerland.
I myself am French and am very attached
to the country.
jewellery. Its DNA is still based on cable
– something truly special to me.
Are you focusing more on watches for
men rather than women this year?
This year, Charriol is pursuing its progression as a premium Swiss watchmaker
by developing several top range watches,
both for men and women. These include
the Colvmbvs and Alex C models and
the Gran Celtica Supersports chronograph. However, as always, we are focusing on developing our feminine watches
– which represent 80 percent of our
sales – in particular the variations on our
St Tropez and Forever collections.
Would you consider opening a flagship
store in Europe in the longer term?
Opening a flagship store is the dream
of many but the returns are often minimal. For the time being, we favour
openings at retail outlets for the European market and quality pop-up stores.
In France, the brand has recently
become associated with the luxury Elie
Bleu boutique and we are also present
at retail stores in Paris, Neuilly, Cannes
and Monaco.
Which partners are you planning to
work with in 2016?
We have just chosen our ambassador in
Europe – Alexandra Rosenfeld, the
former Miss France and Miss Europe
who will be a charming ambassador for
our feminine range. And, of course,
there will be new car racing partnerships
which are particularly important to me
as well as new polo contests such as the
international Ladies Charriol Cup under
the authority of my wife, Marie-Olga.
We are also pursuing our numerous
encounters with film stars, for example
at the Cannes Festival – a truly excep1.1, E17
tional and glamorous event!
Are you more seeking investment partners or sales representatives abroad?
It is always gratifying to find minority
investment partners. When we launch
onto a new market, we strive to find the
best teams on-site so as to establish and
develop our brand. We have also devised
a training method which benefits all the
companies which represent us. Finding
a good representative is a little bit like
finding love – it’s complex and rare but
bears fruit!
Which new highlights do you present
at this year's Baselworld?
Baselworld is an opportunity to present
the timeless and classic pieces which
underpin the success of the brand such
as our new variation on the St-Tropez
range in recognition of the women
I love! Glamorous and feminine: a
stunning jewellery watch, simply called
GlamMoon. There is also the Malia
collection, inspired by the island of
Hawaii with its colourful rose gold
NEWS
A DECLAR ATION OF
LOVE FOR SOLOTHURN
SAINT HONORÉ IS IN TIME
WITH THE EIFFEL TOWER
ROAMER IN T RODUCES A NE W
A U T O M AT I C W AT C H W I T H A V I N TA G E D E S I G N
A FEMININE VERSION OF THE IRON L ADY JOINS
THE RANKS THIS YE AR
by Sabine Zwet tler
b y Ky r a B r e n z i n g e r
Philippe Charriol, Founder of Charriol.
F
FILSON introduces the Dutch Harbor
Watch collection. Inspired by the dive
watches of the 1950s, the timepiece
combines functionality and versatility in a
43 mm stainless steel case, equipped
with a screw-down crown and case back.
Each watch offers a water-resistance to
300 metres and features a uni-directional
rotating top ring with luminous indicators
and SuperLuminova accents on the
index, hands and top ring for low-light
readability. Its curved, scratch-resistant
sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective
coating for legibility at all angles in the
water. The collection offers waterproof
strap options of U.S.-made rubber, a
quick-drying G10 nylon and weather1.2, A23
proof leather. (sz)
ounded by Fritz Meyer in Solothurn in 1888, Roamer can look
back upon a 125-year history.
Then as now, the brand’s classically
elegant designs and high-quality movements rigorously uphold the fine quality associated with the quality seal
“Swiss made”. This is especially
true of the new Soleure: paying
homage to Roamer’s home city,
this self-winding wristwatch looks
as though it has come from another epoch. Its circular case, which
is 42 mm in diameter and waterresistant to 100 metres, surrounds a
sophisticated silver dial with guilloche embellishment, above which blue
hands contrast impressively. Alongside
this version, the newcomer is also available with a black dial or as a bicolour
variant with a bezel plated with rose
gold and Roman numerals on the dial.
1.2, A31
W
Soleure,
Roamer.
e had the incredible opportunity of acquiring 200 kg of
iron from the Eiffel Tower
through the Eiffel Tower Operating
Company (SETE),” says Thierry
Frésard, CEO of Saint Honoré. “We
enriched the iron to transform it into
stainless steel to make a bezel which
replicates the lattice effect of the Eiffel
Tower and the same brown colour of the
famous monument.” The Lady model
comes in two versions: one is the equivalent of the man’s model but with a
smaller 38 mm case and another version
has an ‘Eclair’ dial. This innovation with
the Saint Honoré signature reproduces
the sparkling effect of diamond pavé
through finely engraved metal. The
model is reminiscent of the nocturnal
sparkling of this ‘Iron Lady’ as it lights
up the night to mark each hour. “This is
a kind of homage to my great-grandfather, Victorin Frésard who always
regretted the Eiffel Tower not having a
clock – and finally I have created something which is the exact opposite: a
watch made from iron from the Eiffel
Tower!” As a collector’s item, the watch
is accompanied by a certificate of
authenticity signed by the SETE. The
Eiffel Tower Lady is limited to 500
pieces of the 1,885 items in the range,
referring to the date when the brand was
founded and certainly knows how to
captivate a broad client base in the image
of the Grande Dame which remains
1.1, E21
Paris’s best ambassador!
Tour Eiffel Lady, St. Honoré.
the pure essentials of watchmaking,
elevated to the level of art.
HALL 1.1 STAND D79 & D83
baselworld, Hall 1.1, booth A88
40 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
FASHION BRANDS –
BOLD AND BEAUTIFUL
Delancey, Coach.
T O P FA S H I O N W AT C H B R A N D S TA K E T H E I R C U E S F R O M
T H E R U N W AY F O R F R E S H L O O K S O N T H E W R I S T I N 2 016
T
ished with a strap in either blue, brown
or black crocodile print, has a stunning
double-layer dial with outer single colour rim and inner circle finished in a
sunray and guilloche’ pattern. A variety
of dial colours rare offered, but the
most alluring is the new sand-colured
dial with blue leather strap. Steel and
two-tone versions are being offered.
Complementing the men’s watch is
the Ferragamo Time Lady watch,
a quartz powered timepiece. The
33 mm watch is offered in polished
oday’s top fashion watch
brands are all about
standing out in a crowd,
much like the names
they represent. While
some of the watch companies hold the
license for big-name brands, others are
direct descendants of the fashion
house. Either way, the gents’ and
women’s watches coming onto the
scene this year from top names include
colourful options in straps and dials,
bold gold, sporty chic motifs that offer
lifestyle flair and a hint of glamour.
Another interesting trend: some brands
are offering his and her combinations
that are perfect for a dynamic duo.
As Coach celebrates its 75th anniversary this year, it is a time for the
brand to reflect on its roots with a
visionary look ahead. The newest timepieces follow the DNA of the brand
and offer a blend of historic nuance and
bright colours.
“This is an iconic American brand
that has a regained focus since the
Creative Director has brought a true
modern luxury feel to it,” says Efraim
Grinberg, CEO of the Movado Group,
which holds the Coach license. “The
new watches emulate the modern luxurious feel of the brand. We have a new
Heritage leather strap collection in
honour of the anniversary.”
Easily one of the standout watches
is the Delancey inspired by the luxurious leather goods made by the American house of leather. Each watch in this
line recalls the brand’s rich heritage in
new modern interpretations. The new
Delancey features the original Coach
horse and carriage logo in gold tone on
a white dial, accented by gold tone
Arabic numerals and hands. Below the
horse and carriage design at 12 o’clock,
the name Coach appears at 6 o’clock,
followed by “New York,” indicating the
brand’s roots. The gold-plated watch
features rounded, open lugs and echoes
the hardware used on Coach’s key
handbag styles. The 28 mm watch features a Swarovski crystal set bezel and
is finished with a magnificent soft port
leather strap.
Ferragamo also offers great new
expression for ladies and men with
refined, sophisticated accents on its
newest timepieces. Such accents
include especially finished dials, highpolish cases and bezels, octagon crowns
with black onyx and regal colours.
Timepieces for him and her work alone
or in tandem as a nice pair. The newest
2016 Swiss-made watches include the
Ferragamo Time for Gents, driven by
an ETA automatic movement that is
visible via a transparent case back.
This 41 mm stainless steel watch, fin-
NEWS
G-SHOCK GOES VINTAGE
AN IMPRESSIVE DIVE WATCH
CASIO PRESENTS A NEW MODEL
W I T H PAT I N A F I N I S H
I N V I C TA T I M E P I E C E S H O W S
E XCEP T IONAL ENGINEERING
by Sabine Zwet tler
T
ROSENTHAL – First launched last
year, the brand which belongs to the
German company point tec, offers fine
porcelain dials of Rosenthal, produced
by experts in the Rosenthal factory in
Selb in Franconia, Germany. This new
model incorporates hand-painted motifs
of Mozart’s “The Magic Flute” in relief.
The stainless steel/yellow gold case has
a diameter of 35 mm and a crown with a
Swarovski crystal. The watch is powered
by a quartz movement from Ronda. (sz)
2.0, B03
hanks to the Triple-G concept, which makes a watch’s
case resistant to shocks and
other extreme influences, the G-Shock
is probably the world’s toughest wristwatch. Casio has added a new model
with an attractive used vintage look to
the MT-G series this year. The newcomer boasts innovative combinations
of materials, for example, resin and
stainless steel. New technologies are
also implemented. These include the
hybrid time-correction system, which
receives both radio and GPS-satellite
signals. The case acquires its unconventional look by first ion-plating its
surface with pink gold and then coating
it with a black colour. The final, uppermost layer is then partially removed.
The hands and the indices for the minutes are readily legible in the dark
thanks to LED lighting and luminescent indices; like the subdial at 10
o’clock, they, too, have a harmonious
pink gold hue. The variety of functions
performed by this solar-powered wrist-
steel or two-tone, like the gents’ watch,
also with a double dial.
Even a cursory glance at the Escada’s
Scarlett instantly reveals that this glamorous model was inspired by the styles of
international catwalks. This Swiss-made
ladies’ watch is 34 mm in diameter and
combines a classical design idiom with
expressive elements: eight diamond indices tastefully stage feminine elegance
and unostentatious luxury on the dial,
the centre of which is crafted from mysteriously shimmering mother of pearl.
Time for Gents, Ferragamo.
Scarlett, Escada.
watch includes world time, chronograph, alarm, automatic time correc1.1, A83
tion, and calendar.
G-Shock MTG-G1000AR, Casio.
T
he sporty Invicta Subaqua
Noma VI is the next generation in that collection, with
exceptional engineering and construction that takes it to a new level. The
tough 51.2 mm Swiss-made chronograph is stainless steel, with a “Flame
Fusion” crystal over the dial and luminous hands. A distinctive feature is the
textured “scale” effect on both the
bezel and the centre bracelet links of
the bracelet, which features a diver
buckle.
In addition to the chronograph sub
dials, the timepiece has weekday and
month windows beneath the Invicta
insignia, a 31-day circle around the dial’s
rim with pointer, and a central second
hand. The unidirectional bezel of the
dive watch has a 60-minute counter.
Of special note are also the crown
and chronograph pushers. Each are
made of nine separate pieces and carefully assembled by the Invicta watchmakers. The crown and pushers are
screw-down, allowing the wearer to take
it to a depth of 500 metres (1,640 feet).
If they are not pressurized and become
active, an internal aluminium signal
warning plate is displayed through the
six columns that guide and connect the
top activation button to the bottom
1.2, E53
protective cocoon.
Subaqua Noma VI,
Invicta.
CLASSY COLLECTION
HALL 1.2 - BOOTH E07
COME VISIT US IN HALL 1.2
BOOTH C01
44 WATCHES
DA I LY N E W S
NIGHT LIGHTS
IMPRINT
B L A C K B A D G E R I L L U M I N AT E S M B & F H M X A N D S TA R F L E E T M A C H I N E P E R F O R M A N C E A R T P I E C E S
by Ian Skellern
B
lack Badger founder James
Thompson positively glows
with creativity, something
that is highlighted by his
luminous transformation of
MB&F’s HMX and Starfleet Machines.
Every so often, MB&F founder
Maximilian Büsser entrusts one (or in
this case two) of his wild, but highly
personal, creations to an independent
artist. The idea is for the artists to
infuse MB&F Machines with their own
DNA for the brand’s Performance Art
collection. For Baselworld 2016, MB&F
has collaborated with Sweden-based
Canadian designer James Thompson,
whose company Black Badger Advanced
Composites specialises in machining
objects – mainly for his own line of
jewellery – from solid blocks of highperformance luminescent material.
For his MB&F Performance Art
pieces, Thompson has added his luminous touch to both a very atypical
wristwatch (HMX) and an equally
atypical clock (Starfleet Machine).
Thompson got the idea of working
with solid lume from a friend who made
knives and occasionally used lume to
brighten up the handles because he
thought that it looked cool. He decided
to make a glowing ring for himself “just
for fun” and they quickly became Black
Badger’s most popular item.
Watch enthusiasts are most likely
to be familiar with SuperLuminova,
which is commonly used to enhance
hands and markers so that they glow in
low light. However, Black Badger uses a
very special type of lume that comes in
solid blocks and can be machined.
Black Badger’s exclusive lume is
extremely efficacious at both storing
and releasing light, and the fact that it
is solid means that there is more of it,
so that it shines even brighter for even
longer.
In his childhood, Büsser dreamt of
becoming a car designer and filled
notebooks with drawings of the super-
cars from his imagination. HMX is evidence that those dreams never faded as
its “coachwork” is obviously supercarinspired, particularly by the Alfa Romeo
C52 Disco Volante superleggera (superlight) concept race car from the 1950s.
For HMX Black Badger, Thompson
milled the “rocker covers” on top of the
HMX engine (movement), which are
visible under the transparent supercarlike sapphire crystal engine cover, from
his signature solid blocks of brightly
coloured long-lasting lume. And while
the coloured engine bay looks good by
day, it’s by night that the vivid colours
really explode into life.
The lume does not just light up
HMX’s engine, but also backlights the
time display, making for high legibility
with or without external light. HMX
Black Badger comes in three limited
editions of 18 pieces in grade 5 titanium and stainless steel, with lume in
colours imaginatively named Radar
Green, Phantom Blue, and Purple
Reign.
Starfleet Machine was MB&F’s
first table clock. It was manufactured
by L’Epée 1839, Switzerland’s only
remaining specialised high-end clock
manufacture, according to a design by
MB&F. This intergalactic spaceship
clock displays hours, minutes, double
retrograde seconds, and the amount of
remaining power in the mainspring (up
to an incredible 40 days). For Starfleet
Machine Black Badger, Thompson added his exclusive lume under the internal ring running around the movement,
on the backs of the spaceship’s landing
legs, and to the indication domes and
hands.
And if you think that Starfleet
Machine looks hypersonic by day, just
wait until you see it radiating colour in
the dark! Starfleet Machine Black Badger comes in three limited editions of 18
pieces in stainless steel with lume in the
colours Radar Green, Phantom Blue,
Palace P02 A&C
and Purple Reign.
Managing Director:
Dr. Christian Jürgens
Editorial Management:
Mathias Menzel, Caroline Schiedt
tel. +41 61 699 80 57
dailynews@untitled.eu
Editors:
Watches: William George Shuster
(wgs), Iris Wimmer-Olbort (iwi),
Sabine Zwettler (sz)
Jewellery: Dr. Roberto Chilleri (rc),
Nina Hald (nh), Axel Henselder (ahe),
Christel Trimborn (cete)
Gemstones: Deborah Yonick (dy)
Innovations: Pia Grund-Ludwig (pgl),
Markus Strehlitz (ms)
Contributors:
Pooja Agarwal (pa), Gloria Belloni (gb),
Carol Besler (cb), Kyra Brenzinger (kb),
David Brough (db), Elizabeth Doerr
(ed), Annalisa Fontana (af), Roberta
Naas (rn), Ian Skellern (isk), Silke
Thole (sth)
Maximilian Büsser,
Founder of Mb&F.
Art Direction:
Janina Demiana Roll
Layout:
Eva Börger, Katja Herz, Steffi Mahler,
Martin Tubbesing, Heike Wahnbaeck
Picture editors:
Tobias Indermühle, Andre Weinberg
Photos:
Hannes Magerstaedt, David Matthiessen,
Volker Renner, Yvonne Schmedemann,
Bernd Wackerbauer
Translation and Proofreading:
Ad Rem Sprachdienstleistungen,
Amy Brooke, Prisca DeGroat,
Howard Fine, Kenneth Ross
Advertising:
MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd.
Baselworld
CH-4005 Basel / Switzerland
tel. +41 58 206 22 22
advertising@baselworld.com
Starfleet Machine, MB&F.
LOGICALLY TITANIUM
ROM AIN GAU T HIER’S AWA RD - W INNING LO GICA L
O N E I S N O W AVA I L A B L E I N A T I TA N I U M C A S E
Baselworld Daily News
A publication by Untitled Verlag und
Agentur GmbH & Co. KG
Logical One,
Romain Gauthier.
Printing:
Vogt-Schild Druck AG
CH-4552 Derendingen
www.vs-druck.ch
Publisher’s address:
Untitled Verlag und Agentur
GmbH & Co. KG
Medienpark Kampnagel
Jarrestr. 2
D-22303 Hamburg, Germany
tel. +49 40 189 881-0
fax +49 40 189 881-111
info@untitled-verlag.de
by Ian Skellern
R
omain Gauthier does nothing by
halves and when he decided to
create a high-precision timepiece a few years ago, he quickly learnt
that a constant supply of power − i.e.,
constant force − to the escapement
was key.
The problem is that as the mainspring of a mechanical watch winds
down so does the force it provides to
the escapement, and this adversely
affects precision. One method of providing constant force that has been
around for centuries is the fusée and
chain, which transfers power via a tiny
chain unwinding around a cone (fusée
is French for “cone”).
But this once popular constant
force mechanism has a number of
weaknesses when used in a wristwatch,
including requiring lots of vertical
space, weak chain links, and the chain
being stressed at angles. But rather
than look elsewhere for his constant
force, Gauthier preferred to substantially improve the fusée-and-chain
design, which had basically been
unchanged for 600 years.
The result was Logical
One, a watch that took the
award for best Men’s Complicated Watch at the 2013
Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de
Genève. For Baselworld
2016, Gauthier presents Logical One in high-tech, grade 5
titanium Ti-6Al-4V, which combines very high strength with very
low weight. And the result is a more
casual-looking high-precision Logical
One that is extremely comfortable to
Palace 3G
wear.
Baselworld Daily News is published by
Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH &
Co. KG. Reprints of articles are obtainable on application to the publisher.
All rights reserved.
Baselworld Daily News may not be
reproduced in any manner of form
without written permission.
EDITORIAL OFFICE
News to share? Contact us!
tel. +41 61 699 80 57
dailynews@untitled.eu
Live Deeper
Activating internal dimensions for a fearless external experience.
Freedom and Elegance: Live Deeper.
TechnoMarine booth: Hall 1.2 Booth B49
JEWELLERY
DA I LY N E W S
HIGHLIGHTS
DE GRISOGONO ROLLS
OUT THE RED CARPET
50
Mother
Mother-and-daughter
team
Maria and Odile Gaspari have a
shared passion for jewellery. Maria
tells us more.
T H E S W I S S C O M PA N Y P R E S E N T S F O U R N E W C O L L E C T I O N S
A N D A S P E C I A L C O L L A B O R AT I O N W I T H S A M S U N G
I n t e r v i e w b y Ky r a B r e n z i n g e r
T
52
he brand beloved by
media
personalities
unveiled high-glamour
jewellery collections at
Baselworld. Fawaz Gruosi,
the founder and Artistic Director, shares
some of his favourites with us.
Allegra bracelet.
Fawaz Gruosi, founder and Artistic Director of de Grisogono.
Which is your favourite new item?
I like all of them because designing them
was a process of joy and emotion! But of
course, I really like the new items in the
Allegra collection because it is named
after my daughter so I have a particularly
personal connection with it. This collection features a new cuff bracelet set with
diamonds, a new design of rings set entirely with baguette diamonds and some very
feminine, delicate and elegant earrings.
It is very important for the company to
highlight its DNA in each design and for
customers to be able to identify the codes
which they value. It is a great honour and
pleasure to create the vibrant colours,
contrasts and large dimensions of each
piece I design. However, all of our new
collections are available in an all-gold or
diamond-set version, as is the case with
the company’s flagship models.
You have always taken a cheerful
approach, using very vibrant colours. Is
it important to retain this brand DNA?
Your collection appeals in particular to
relatively mature women who like to
wear imposing jewellery…
De Grisogono jewellery and watches
appeal to all ages. However, the woman
de Grisogono is aiming at is a woman of
character who likes to assert herself by
wearing jewellery which highlights her
personality. Over the course of the years,
the brand has won over different groups
of clients from young women wanting to
wear jewellery every day in the form of
fashion accessories (with the Allegra,
India, Catene, Onde, Gypsy and Vortice
collections), as well as women who value
unique pieces and strong and novel
designs.
HOMAGE TO BR AZIL
JEWELS FOR THE JOY OF LIVING
How are your products distributed at an
international level?
As a brand, de Grisogono is very much
present at an international level. We have
17 flagship stores in some of the world’s
most beautiful cities and around one
hundred retail boutiques. This year, the
brand will significantly reinforce its
presence in locations which are strategic
for de Grisogono, such as Dubai, London
1.1, D39
and Paris.
56
ART JEWELLERY
Three-dimensional mini sculpsculp
tures from Carrera y Carrera
delight with immaculate grace
and grandeur.
20 YEARS OF
BOLD DESIGN
President and Creative Designer
José Azulay speaks about
UNOde50’s anniversary and
future plans.
60
SHADES OF
SPRING
The colour green makes a strong
appearance in 2016. Multiple
hues of the verdant colour play a
starring role in jewellery, watches
and accessories.
64
STYLE AND
ERGONOMICS
Brands present innovative new
ideas and materials to jazz up
functional workbenches.
80
THE BIG THREE
Rubies, emeralds and sapphires
scintillate in all their glory in the
halls of Baselworld.
THE CONTEMPORARY MOOD OF ROBER TO COIN'S
NE W ROCK & DIAMONDS COLLEC T ION
by Christel Trimborn
The other Brumani collections, such as
the Resort version of the Corcovado
Collection, also express this vibrant
Your image is associated with the red
carpet and celebrities. Why have you
chosen this communication route?
It is more than just a communication
route. I am someone who likes to share,
travel and welcome people. The de
Grisogono brand is used to hosting large
receptions so as to share special moments
with friends and clients. It is also an
immense privilege to be able to adorn
some of the most beautiful women in
the world with our latest creations on
the red carpet. Most recently, these
have included celebrities such as Natalie
Portman, Bar Refaeli, Bella Hadid, Joan
Smalls and Karlie Kloss.
56
ROCKIN’ IT
BRUMANI DELIGH T S WI T H NE W PIECES
B
LET THE SHOW
BEGIN!
Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen
lifts the curtain on its new
circus-inspired collection.
BWDN: Which new flagship jewellery
items are you presenting?
Fawaz Gruosi: We are presenting four
new collections this year. But we are also
exhibiting our flagship models and
presenting some new items, notably
from our Gypsy, India, Allegra, Boule,
Chiocciolina and Vortice collections.
However, one piece which is bound to
impress is a connected watch, which we
are launching with Samsung this year
and which is sure to get people talking.
rumani’s brand-new Botânica collection is a feast for the senses –
unmistakably inspired by the
lush flora of its home country, Brazil.
The flowers on the handmade rings, earrings and pendants will make every
heart bloom, featuring as they do brown
diamonds, faceted blue topaz drops and
moonstone cabochons, embedded in
18k rose gold. In addition, the Botânica
collection is also an homage to Roberto
Burle Marx, Brazil’s most influential
landscape architect. During his lifetime,
he created over 2,000 gardens throughout the world. A primary aim in all of
these projects was to express the “Brazilian soul” of each garden – just as
Brumani strives to reflect the colour and
radiance of Brazil in its jewellery.
INHERITED LOVE
FOR GEMS
by Roberto Chilleri
spirit: brown diamonds,
tsavorite, green sapphires
and blue topaz are like a cool
breeze in a tropical paradise,
coupled with casual elegance
and femininity. “Our goal is to create
jewellery that makes women look
their most beautiful and feminine,” says
Eduardo Brüner, Brumani’s Director of
Marketing and Creation. He continues:
“Our greatest challenge is to convey a
state of mind, a joy of living, something
that transcends the jewellery and that
connects to a lifestyle through our
design and our combinations of coloured
gems.” The Bossa Nova collection also
succeeds in transforming some of
Brazil’s cultural treasures into timeless
jewellery: black and white sapphires lie
side by side like a cascade of music
notes, combined with the gentle blue
tones of luxurious tanzanite and the fire
of premium diamonds, which set sparkling accents.
R
Botânica earrings in 18k
rose gold with brown diamonds,
moonstone cabochons and blue topaz drops.
As grandchildren of German and
Italian immigrants, the Brüner brothers,
Eduardo, Emerson and Rodrigo, inherited the family jewellery tradition, which
goes back over 50 years. It was in 2005
that they decided to create Brumani, a
combination of Italian creativity, German
precision and the liveliness and spontaneity of the Brazilian soul. Today, Brumani has achieved recognition and space in
all of the main shop windows around the
2.1, D65
world.
oberto Coin loves
to remember that
being a jeweller is
not just a job like any other,
because it allows him to
Rock & Diamonds collection, rings in white, rose and yellow gold,
feel free to do what he likes with white and black diamonds.
best.
“I use my head and my heart when I
today for feeling young, regardless of your
create,” he explains, “because it’s natural
official age,” adds the jeweller.
for me and it keeps me young to work this
He has chosen the stud as a decoraway, in step with the times and fashion.”
tive motif, repeated endlessly on the jewAs if to confirm his preference for contemellery, inspired by the decoration used on
porary design, he is launching his Rock &
leather bomber jackets, but also the studs
Diamonds collection. White, rose or yelthat are a feature of the ancient stairs of
low gold mounted with white or black
his Venetian home.
diamonds, this is jewellery in the truest
Rock & Diamonds rings are available
sense of the word, but with an unmistakin a rigid version or in links, a solution that
able youthful feel. Not that it is dedicated
further accentuates the jewel aspect. This
to teenagers alone, “it’s simply meant to
made-to-measure design for today’s rock
dress women with a modern touch, with
girl – who wants elegance too – imbues
new, different designs, and we all know
the jewels with all the rebel swing of 70s’
1.1, D31
how important having the right attitude is
glam rock.
50 JEWELLERY
DA I LY N E W S
NEWS
THE IRRESISTIBLE
ATTRACTION OF GEMS
T H E S H A R E D PA S S I O N F O R B E A U T I F U L J E W E L L E R Y A N D D I A M O N D S
H A S M A D E M A R I A A N D O D I L E G A S PA R I A P E R F E C T T E A M
I n t e r v i e w b y A n n a l i s a Fo n ta n a
M
aria and Odile Gaspari,
mother and daughter
in perfect symbiosis,
continue to fill our
dreams with their
creations. Sharing a passion for gems
they have been able to combine the
great classic style of high jewellery with
modern styles and creations
BWDN: The style of Maria Gaspari
jewellery renews itself without losing
its distinctive character. How does this
come about?
Maria Gaspari: It’s very smooth, very
simple and, I’d say, almost completely
natural. My daughter and I are fortunate
enough to share a passion and the same
sensitivity. I take all the credit for
passing on to Odile my real love of
gemstones and beautiful jewellery. And
she has been able to develop the style of
our creations with a wave of new ideas
and a more youthful feel, while retaining
our brand’s unique characteristics of
precious elegance.
You’ve been attending Baselworld for
years. Have your customers’ tastes
changed?
Diamonds and rubies are the stars of these
magnificent earrings by Maria Gaspari.
The love for jewellery and gems runs in the Gaspari family.
In the same way that there have been
changes in tastes and styles of apparel and
accessories, and other things in general.
Ours is a truly international clientele with
different demands, specific to the culture
and traditions of the various countries
around the world. There have been
changes everywhere, but it has always
been one of our strengths to be in close
and constant contact with the markets we
serve, and to have developed a strong
perception of changes in taste and trends.
CLASSIC CHARM BEHIND NEW DESIGN
R O B E R T O D E M E G L I O R E VA M P S T H E 2.0 T E N N I S B R A C E L E T
by Roberto Chilleri
S
ince 2005 Roberto Demeglio has
been creating jewels that mould
around wrist and fingers thanks to
the brand’s hallmark joint and stretch
features. Collections offer both high
jewellery and high-tech luxury ceramic
items.
“We were able to meet the demands
of those purchasers who no longer
identify with traditional jewellery,”
Roberto Demeglio, founder and Art
Director of the label that bears his
name, explains its growing success.
This jewellery is modular, stretchy,
flexible, and for all these reasons is
extraordinarily comfortable. “Each
model is engineered with special
microsprings so bracelets and rings are
neither too rigid nor too soft,” he adds.
Six years ago, Demeglio moved his
manufacturing facility from Turin, his
hometown, to Valenza, where he found
talented young goldsmiths and invaluable outsourcer artisan companies. The
ideal location for the concept of modular stretch jewellery he had developed,
which adapts well not only to high jewellery but also to the affordable luxury
of high-tech ceramic lines, a material
he pioneered. “The ceramic semi-finished items are produced under license
by the same suppliers who work for top
fashion and watchmaking names,” says
Roberto Demeglio, bracelet and ring from the
Pura collection, with high-tech ceramics, gold
and diamonds.
the Italian designer, who created his
Aura collection thanks to the recently
patented gold-on-ceramic deposition
technology. And now he hopes for great
things from his latest ceramic creation:
“It’s called Pura, and I consider it the
tennis bracelet for the third millennium,” he explains. “It’s designed for
women who’d never wear a traditional
tennis bracelet and for those who are
tired of them.” Roberto Demeglio’s
alternative tennis bracelet may showcase diamonds but they’re mounted on
nicely cadenced hi-tech ceramic
links. “It’s more practical than a traditional tennis bracelet, it’s stretchy
and can be worn on any occasion.”
The Italian designer has revisited
another super classic, the rivière ring,
with the same concept and the result
is making big news.
The latest additions
include the Mona Lisa
collection in gold and diamonds, and a new Aura
collection, differing from
the first for its rhomboid
modules and sinuous, ultrafeminine lines.
The jewellery is sold in prestigious
jewellers and department stores. In Italy
it is stocked by the loyal dealers in art
cities and resorts such as Cortina, Capri
and Porto Cervo. In Europe, the brand is
found in the trendiest stores like Von
Köck in Vienna, Pachleitner in Graz,
Gomez y Molina in Marbella. Positioning
in North America is also high-status –
stores like Neiman Marcus and
Brinkhaus or Frasca in Palm Springs,
Peter Marco in Beverley Hills, and Borsheim’s in Omaha. “We expect further
growth in the U.S., where we’re distributed by Beny Sofer, and we intend to
increase our presence in the Middle East
2.2, G23
market,” says Demeglio.
Let’s talk about gems. What are your
favourites?
Diamonds are number one, undoubtedly. The latest innovations in the timepiece field make that clear. Perhaps the
term has been overused but in this case
it seems well justified to say that this is
jewellery that also keeps time. All the
models are literally a triumph of light,
from the case to the dials, indices;
touches of colour have been reserved for
the straps. Diamonds are present in all
our collections, from the most striking
to those in a more linear style. Sometimes the jewels just use diamonds but
in different cuts. However, other stones
like emeralds, sapphires and rubies are
the undisputed stars of our creations.
There is only one essential condition:
we only accept those of absolute and
1.1, D35
exceptional quality.
ISABELLEFA – “People are looking for
a value and worth that can be seen and
felt. This is why gold and platinum
pieces with large surface areas are so
sought after,“ says Isabelle Mössner,
owner of the manufacture IsabelleFa.
Fashion is also presenting clear, geometric patterns. Women are accessorising
this in particular with Flix Flex necklaces and bracelets from the Pure line by
IsabelleFa, which are available in different forms and sizes in the alloys 750
RougeRoyal, white and rose gold as well
as with brilliant-cut diamonds, coloured
gemstones and freshwater cultured
2.1, B53
pearls. (ahe)
PRECIOUS LIGHTWEIGHTS
FROM ITALY
PON T E VECCHIO GIOIELLI SHOWCASES T HE
E ASY TO WE AR NOBILE COLLEC T ION
by Roberto Chilleri
E
stablished just a stone’s throw
from the Ponte Vecchio bridge
that inspires its name, this
Florentine brand has made tradition
its leitmotif. Nonetheless, it has
integrated the sense of beauty that
reigns in the city of Benvenuto
Cellini with amazing research
skills. Collections are the result
of teamwork that seeks to mould
creativity to the concrete
demands of purchasers. In doing
so, Ponte Vecchio Gioielli has
launched new trends and we
expect the Nobile collection to
continue that custom, vaunting
all the qualities of every woman’s
dream jewel: refined and elegant
models that are easy to wear and simple to accessorize, but also very precious. The bracelets are in gold but
with a titanium core that makes them
flexible and stretchy, and very light
even when the design is larger in scale.
They can wind around the wrist several
times, like the Nobile Stretch bracelet
in the photo, embellished with an elegant white gold and diamond pavé
band, or spiral around the wrist like
Nobile Twist, mounting semiprecious
Ponte Vecchio Gioielli, Nobile collection bracelet
in rose and white gold with diamonds.
stones surrounded by small diamonds.
The collection includes a sinuous necklaces and soft rings. The Tuscan brand
came to Baselworld with a completely
refurbished stand and a second generation now rising up the ranks, with
Export Manager Francesco Calà. He is
well aware of a glorious history that
clearly inspired new packaging and the
1.1, A22
showcases.
52 JEWELLERY
DA I LY N E W S
THE CIRCUS IS COMING TO TOWN
O L E LY N G G A A R D C O P E N H A G E N D E L I G H T S O N C E A G A I N W I T H
I M A G I N AT I V E C O L L E C T I O N S A N D A W E L L- C R A F T E D C A M PA I G N
Elegant elephant:
pendant in 18k gold
with diamond pavé.
Shooting Star earrings
with coral.
A
n old-fashioned circus wagon,
quirky bunnies peeking
from top hats, the beautiful fortune-teller with her
crystal ball – with scenes
such as these Ole Lynggaard
Copenhagen conjures up a brand
campaign which is a tribute to
this year’s celebrations. In the
fascinating setting, in which
magic, fantasy and genuine
skill are artistically combined, the family-run
Danish company presents
its latest, handmade
creations. With vibrant
colours and Bohemian
charm they address the sub
subject down to the tiniest
detail: shooting stars of
twinkling diamonds, seduc
seductive gold snakes and dia
diamond covered elephants, handengraved leaves and immaculate
Earring from the Love
Band collection.
050_300_Plane_Nose_270x180_Baselworld_en 1
Family business: Søren Lynggaard (CEO), his sister Charlotte Lynggaard (Creative Director) and her
husband Michel Normann (CCO).
gemstones of irresistible colours. Once
again, fine jewellery designer and Creative Director Charlotte Lynggaard has
designed and directed the company’s
brand campaign, her artistic fingerprint
visible in every last detail: “For me per-
sonally, this has been the most complicated and at the same time the most
rewarding brand campaign yet. I was
able to combine my love of fine jewellery with my deep passion for fashion,
interior decoration and scenography,”
says
Charlotte
Lynggaard. Undisputed star of the magical
circus theme is the
elephant: Ole Lynggaard, the
company’s designer and founder, has always been intrigued by
this treasured animal. He
created his first jewellery
elephant 50 years ago and has
continually evolved the fascinating creature, which symbolizes
wisdom,
loyalty,
strength and happiness. The world’s
largest extant land animal is once
again the biggest act for Ole
Lynggaard’s 80th birthday, which the
designer is celebrating in 2016. Crafted
from 18 karat gold, the elephant shows
his elegant side with his embellished
trunk raised high overhead or set in a
vibrant pavé of scintillating diamonds.
WISH UPON A STAR
The carefully-designed circus campaign,
which features Swedish model Mona
Johannesson, has also been extended to
the Shooting Star collection.
This collection started out as a unique
showpiece, an artful earpiece of tiny
stars and dangling gold chains, that
Charlotte had created to match her
evening gown. This earpiece was an
immediate success and so the idea of
creating an entire collection of shooting star styles was born, featuring delicate diamonds stars of different
sizes and variations. The first
part of the collection consists of
an open ring, a gold chain bracelet, stud earrings in two sizes
and gold chain earring pendants
with pearl or red coral. All earrings are designed to be versatile in
order to match the style and mood of
every woman wearing them. Shooting
Stars pendants and studs can be worn as
a single earring, in combination with a
different style or paired with a matching
style. For this reason each stud and pendant is purchased individually. This collection will be available from late April
in more than 300 retail venues around
2.1, C41
the globe.
26.01.15 08:03
© 2016 BAYCO JEWELS LLC. PHOTOGRAPHED EXCLUSIVELY FOR BAYCO BY BRIAN MOGHADAM
FROM THE IMPERIAL COLLECTION
A SUPERB 60 CARAT SUGARLOAF
CABOCHON BURMA SAPPHIRE SET
ATOP AN INTRICATE DIAMOND
MICROPAVE RING.
Hall 1.1 Stand E09
www.bayco.com
OU R HER ITAGE YOU R LEGACY
H A LL 1.1 BOOTH A 13
56 JEWELLERY
DA I LY N E W S
HISTORY CREATES ART
JEWELLERY SCULP TURES IN GOLD FROM CARRERA Y CARRERA
Dragón de Fuego necklace
in yellow gold with diamonds.
by A x e l H e n s e ld e r
T
he Spanish jewellery icon
celebrated its 130th
birthday last year. And
this year, the Madridbased jewellery manufacture has once again brought along a
wealth of exciting jewellery sculptures
to Baselworld. Carrera y Carrera is one of
the top 30 prestige jewellery brands in
the world.
EXQUISITE MINIATURES
The Spanish royal family swears by
Carrera y Carrera’s sculptural jewellery,
as do many other aristocratic families
and wealthy individuals throughout the
world. Because there is scarcely a more
stylish way for a woman to portray her
personality. Founded in Madrid in 1885
by sculptor Manuel Carrera, the manufacture soon began to focus on exquisite
miniatures. Largely handmade by
master goldsmiths, the jewellery is sensual, romantic and always unmistakable.
The jewellery brand with the distinctive
double name has long been the market
leader in the luxury jewellery segment
in Spain. Worldwide, the jewels often
Carrera y Carrera’s new creations can be admired at Baselworld.
glitter on stars as they stride along the
red carpet. No wonder, because it is not
only the designs that are unique, telling
stories that hark back to their Spanish
roots. The materials, too, are of the very
finest quality. Carrera y Carrera uses
exclusively 750 gold, top diamonds and
select coloured gemstones.
Since the early 1980s, Carrera y
Carrera has been attracting increasing
international attention. The reason: for
this is that since 1977, the brand has
numbered amongst the
exhibitors at Baselworld.
Worldwide, the miniaminia
tures are now regarded as
works of art and can be
cabiadmired in the display cabi
nets of the finest and most
significant museums around
the globe, such as Japan’s Yamanashi
Museum, the White House Museum in
Washington and the Hadley Museum in
Kentucky. As a result of the historic,
linguistic and cultural links between
Spain and Latin America the brand has
succeeded in establishing an excellent
position in the luxury jew-ellery segment. In addition, Carrera y Carrera is
also the number one jewellery brand in Russia and
the Commonwealth of Independent states. With a subsidiary in Asia and sales outlets
in Japan, Malaysia and China, the
company is conquering the Far
East. Consumers here are
beginning to understand the
concept of individuality and
are increasingly looking for new ways to
express their own personal style.
ARTISTIC INSPIRATION
The secret of the brand’s success?
Nature, architecture and the history of
Spain inspire the artists at Carrera y
Carrera to create three-dimensional
mini sculptures full of detail, with symbolic, matt-sheen gold surfaces. In this
way, the unique designs tell the story of
the country, people and traditions. The
expertise of the company is also built on
structhe careful working of the gold struc
tures and the precise setting of the
gemstones. This lends each piece the
gracefulness of immaculate grandeur
and handcrafted perfection. An example
of the innovative energy of the
brand can be seen in the new
collections at Baselworld
1.1, D33
2016.
Dragones de Fuego
ring in yellow gold,
with garnets and
diamonds.
“EXPLORE YOUR LIMITS, LIBER ATE YOURSELF!”
I N I T S T H I R D Y E A R E X H I B I T I N G AT B A S E L W O R L D, S PA N I S H B R A N D
UNODE50 PRESEN T S UNIQUE NE W DESIGNS
Interview by Christel Trimborn
T
o mark its 20th anniversary,
UNOde50 is presenting
itself in a more youthful
fashion than ever, revealing a
vibrant and wild winter collection at Baselworld. We
spoke to José Azulay,
President and Creative
Designer, about the company’s plans for 2016 and
the new brand campaign.
BWDN: 2016 sees the
brand celebrate an anniversary. What do you see as
the hallmark that has been
established over the past 20
years?
José Azulay: For 20 years now,
UNOde50 has been creating, designing
and surprising customers with its
unique and exclusive jewellery. Since
1996, the brand has experienced a
great evolution without losing the
essence and originality that characterises it. We are currently in a full development and expansion process. We are
growing in all areas, adapting to markets and current trends while maintaining the ground-breaking and daring
spirit that characterises us.
What new developments are you
presenting on the occasion of the
anniversary?
As part of the brand anniversary, the
design team of UNOde50 has reissued
an iconic piece for each year to cele-
Limited-edition Skalator necklace from the
2016 Autumn/Winter collection.
brate the 20 years of the brand; every
piece is an exclusive and unique piece.
This is what differentiates the brand
and what makes it so creative. A limited-edition piece will be launched to
represent this last year, 2016. We will
continue to celebrate the 20th anniversary throughout 2016 with many surprises for everyone.
UNOde50 has expanded to many
international cities, starting with its
headquarters in Madrid. What are
the most important markets and
which do you still want to
conquer?
representThe brand is now represent
couned in more than 40 coun
tries and has more than
120 own stores in the
main cities of the world,
distribuwith over 2,500 distribu
tion points. As a global
jewelbrand, the Spanish jewel
lery company continues
to be unstoppable in its
process of international
expansion.
After opening shops in London,
Canada, Panama and Rome this
past quarter, the brand is about to
open its fourth shop in Barcelona – at a
very special location: at the foot of the
landmark building of La Pedrera – and
its first shop in Chile. UNOde50 plans
to strengthen its presence in the United States, Mexico, Russia and Italy in
2016. And, as a global brand, our international focus for 2016 will also be on
the Middle East, Turkey, Asia, South
America and Australia.
What is the idea behind the new
“Unlock yourself ” campaign?
UNOde50 is launching its new Spring/
Summer 2016 campaign, “Unlock yourself ”, exclusively at Baselworld.
“Unlock yourself ” is a positive, international and creative concept that invites
everyone to unlock their mind, over-
The impressive UNOde50 stand at Baselworld.
come the things that block us, explore
our limits, find ourselves and, finally,
become free.
This year your stand at Baselworld
will be more spacious – what can visitors look forward to?
We are very pleased to be present again
at such an international and luxurious
show as Baselworld. Our stand, which
has grown more spacious each year due
to its international success, will reveal
the essence of the 2016 Spring/Summer collection and will anticipate the
new 2016 Autumn/Winter collection
“We, all the specials”. This new collection invites us to be inspired by ourselves and to reinterpret the elements
2.1, F85
that best define us.
José Azulay, President and Creative Designer
of UNOde50.
Spinning ...
Changeable ...
it’s
it’s
it’s
BASELWORLD
HALL 1.1 / STAND A.09
www.tirisi.com
M I K I M OTO.CO M
H A L L 1 . 1 S TA N D C - 0 9
60 JEWELLERY
DA I LY N E W S
EVERYTHING IS SO GREEN...
SPRING ME ANS NEW GROW TH – EVERY THING IS SPROUTING AND
B L O O M I N G , R E V I TA L I S I N G O U R S E N S E S W I T H T H E S H A D E S O F S P R I N G .
A
fter the long, cold grey of the winter months we long to see it: the
beginning of spring. Now at the
latest, the fresh green of re-emerging
nature ensures a good mood and an awakening of the joys of spring. From delicate
mint hues to radiant grass green and on to
lush moss green, the colour with the
pleasantly soothing effect is once again
making a strong appearance this year. In
the new Queen of Sheba collection from
Lydia Courteille green is the all-determining colour. The Parisian designer
combines tsavorite or green tourmaline
with opals, sapphires, diamonds or peridots to form truly regal jewellery pieces.
In the Pristine Emerald ring by Bayco, the
main role is played by a sole gemstone. At
the centre of the platinum ring is an unusually large and fine, cushion-cut, rectangular emerald from Colombia. A double
row of pear-cut diamonds frames the opulent piece. A further tribute to the colour
green is paid by the Neo watch model
from Meistersinger. The dark green
nuance is evocative of a pleasant walk in
the woods – without the hurried pace of
second and minute hands.
4
1
5
9
7
6
WE’R E
P E RFECT L Y
M ATC H ED
With luxury consumers being discerning about
international news brands, it pays to choose the one
high net worth individuals rate as highest quality and
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and you can see why we’re uniquely placed to help
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– watch our research video at
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For more information, contact
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on +33 (0) 1 70 92 26 68
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Ledbury Research
3
2
8
10
1 De Grisogono / New Retro Lady
2 Bayco / The Pristine Emerald
3 Garrard / Dahlia collection
4 Cicada Jewelry / One of a kind necklace
5 Lydia Courteille / Queen of Sheba collection
6 Pasquale Bruni / Giardini Segreti collection
7 Georg Jensen / Runa collection
8 Meistersinger / Neo collection
9 Salvatore Ferragamo / Summer season 2016
10 Melvin & Hamilton / Summer season 2016
Halle 1.1 BootH e15/a
Milano - www.utopia-jewels.com
P i n k G o l d 18 K
with Diamonds
SARCAR TRAMEX SA • Geneva • Switzerland
Abu Dhabi • Azerbaijan • Bahrain • China • Colombia • Dubai • Hong Kong • Indonesia • Japan • Kuwait • Macau • Malaysia • Oman • Pakistan • Qatar
Russia • Saudi Arabia • Singapore • Switzerland • Taiwan • Thailand • UK • USA • Vietnam
Visit us at our booth A12 in the Hall of Dreams or www.sarcar.com
Creation by Sarcar / Photo Marian Gérard
LIMITED EDITION TO NINE
ROCK & DIAMONDS COLLECTION
HALL 1.1 | STAND D 31
THE ART OF NATURE | robertocoin.com
64 INNOVATIONS
DA I LY N E W S
STYLE AND ERGONOMICS
N E W I D E A S A N D M AT E R I A L S T O J A Z Z U P W O R K B E N C H E S
by Pia Grund-Ludwig
W
atchmakers and jewellers have high
expectations of their
workbenches. The
tables need to be
height-adjustable to facilitate fatiguefree working for people of different
heights. Arm rests which adapt to movement in every direction reduce fatigue
and the risk of disorders of the joints.
Uniform lighting protects the eyes. But
functionality is not the only thing that
matters in this challenging sector:
exquisite materials are also in demand
and the design must be just right.
As a relatively new player in the
field, Görg Möbelmanufaktur from near
Dresden and Bureautech Allemann are
presenting their joint brand, Benchalist
(2.0, K45), at Baselworld for the first
time this year. “We produce workbenches for watchmakers and goldsmiths in
individual designs,” says Andreas Görg,
Managing Director of Görg Möbelmanufaktur. The strength of the company lies
in its use of genuine wood in the top-ofthe-range sector. Its customers include
large Swiss watchmaking groups as well
as Lang und Heyne, Nomos, Bucherer
and Victorinox. “We offer high quality
workbenches which feature in the sales
sector in particular and specifically in
the service area,” says Daniel Allemann,
CEO of Bureautech Allemann.
Another sector covered by
Benchalist is the production of special
tables for clean room workspaces. Beco
Technic (2.0, H60) is also offering a
new workbench for use in clean rooms.
Ergonomics is a key focal point for Beco
Technic in its various sectors, starting
with a chair which moves in all directions as well as a height-adjustable
table, arm supports which move in
three directions and water-jet cut, custom-made drawer inserts for non-slip,
handy tools storage.
With its Concept Bench, Allemand
Frères (2.0, H50) demonstrates how the
company sees the future of workbench
trends. Features include a retractable
monitor which is only pulled out when
needed. This workbench is not yet for
sale but is indicative of the future of the
industry. Also new to the programme
and on sale now is another special workbench for stone-setters and engravers.
The workbench includes a pull-out middle section with a second base underneath. The stone-setter or engraver can
place frames here for working on. This
means that they are positioned lower
which makes them easier to work with.
Andreas Görg (left) and Daniel Allemann show a Benchalist workbench.
The stone-setters can store drawings or
sketches they are working on upon a
pull-out shelf. “The lighting is also
important,” says Céline Allemand,
responsible for marketing and sales at
the company. It is important for many
companies that exactly the same lighting is used across all areas of the work
station so that the visual impression of
the pieces is identical. The company
also uses lights which do not heat up.
This improves the ergonomics of the
workstation.
Bergeon (2.0, H44) is also exhibiting new industrial watchmaking benches under the B-Bench label. “The structure of the workbench is new compared
to our previous offers,” says Gianni
Céline Allemand at the stone setter workplace.
Pavone, Commercial Director at
Bergeon. The important thing is that
the benches can be fitted with different
features, either with one or two drawer
cabinets, positioned on the right or left
and which can be upgraded afterwards.
“It is a universal bench at a moderate
price,” Pavone says, giving an overview
of the new product. The bench comes
with arm rests which move in all three
directions. And there are four electrical
lifting columns with programmable
height adjustment. The workbench is
extremely solid. “Our customers value
the fact that we are not just about ergonomics. They touch them and shake
them so the workbenches really need to
be stable,” Pavone explains.
UNDER STEAM
HALL 2 PRESEN T S T ECHNOLOGY FOR CLE ANING
W AT C H E S A N D J E W E L L E R Y
by Markus Strehlitz
T
here are many applications
which use cleaning technology
in the jewellery and watch sector. “Our devices are used after laser
marking, for example. Or before and
after galvanising and plating,” says Oran
Manager Yaron Ben-Zvi shows an Eitan device.
Ben-Zvi, CEO of Eitan Industries (2.0,
K55). His company produces steam
cleaners and according to Ben-Zvi,
covers a wide range of products – from
small entry-level devices to larger
machines for industrial use. Ben-Zvi
explains that the devices offer high
quality cleaning. “The special thing
about our products is that we work with
high pressure,” he explains. The item is
therefore not damp after steam cleaning. “This prevents oxidation,” says
Ben-Zvi.
Eitan is exhibiting at Baselworld for
the 25th time this year, presenting the
steam cleaners LSE-6 and LSE-3/C as
well as other machines. Both are ideal
for the renewal and refreshing of jewellery or for fast cleaning of loose diamonds. The devices are very compact,
relatively light and portable. Eitan is
aimed at jewellery shops and workshops.
Elma, too, is presenting a wide
range of cleaning machines (2.0, G54) at
its stand. Visitors can find out more
about the Elmasteam 4.5 basic, for
example. According to the manufacturer, the steam cleaner is the ideal device
for watch and jewellery workshops for
cleaning worn and stored jewellery as
well as watch straps, chains and rings set
with stones. With the Elmasteam 4.5
basic, users can work with steam, ultrasound or a combination of the two.
Miguel Bonillo, Division Manager Watch and Jewellery Technology, Elma.
Ultrasound cleaning is a core field of
expertise of Elma. The company offers a
broad range of these products in the form
of the Elmasonic. This comprises small
table-top devices such as the Elmasonic
S range which comes in 17 different
sizes. The Elmasonic P appliances work
using multi-frequency technology.
I N S TA N T S
PRÉCIEUX
C OL L EC TION
DISCOVER THE COLLECTION. HALL 1.1 STAND A63.
TOKYO
•
KUALA LUMPUR
K O R L O F F PA R I S B O U T I Q U E
12 RUE DE LA PAIX 75002 PARIS FRANCE
+33 1 49 27 92 09
DUBAI
•
MOSCOW
H A L L 1-1, B O O T H D59
FE N D I .CO M / T I M E PI E C E S
The new Circularis Automatic.
A MeisterSinger development that features a 120-hour power reserve,
fine sunburst designs, and appliques with superluminova: The latest addition to the
MeisterSinger luxury-class. www.meistersinger.net

Visit us at Hall 2.0, Stand A45
68 INNOVATIONS
DA I LY N E W S
GLOBAL INNOVATION
The MSA 05.120 removes watch hands without coming into contact with the dial and is
equipped with extractors for hour, minute and
second hands and off-centre hands.
SIR O L A SE R T EC’S F IBE R S C A N EC O SE T S
N E W S TA N DA R D S F O R E F F I C I E N C Y
by Pia Grund-Ludwig
T
he new engraving and lettering laser Fiber
Scan Eco from Siro Lasertec has achieved a
previously unseen price/performance ratio.
The new lettering and engraving system is characterised by its low purchase price and consistently
impressive performance data. It is suitable for both
lettering and engraving work and, thanks to its optimal semi-automatic tool holder, it can be used in
smaller or medium-sized workshops or even to produce large-scale batches. Fiber Scan Eco can also be
used as a cutting laser using one of the additional
tools. The operating concept and software support
mean that complex activities are easy to undertake:
clients can benefit from Siro Lasertec’s experience
in the field of laser subcontracting. Software is just
as important as a well-functioning laser system. The
V3 lettering software has been specially developed
to suit the applications used by our customers
engaged in jewellery and watchmaking. The focus
here is on rotation lettering. V3 is an open source
software which is constantly being updated and
developed. Long-standing experience gained from
the company’s own laser commissions and development of system solutions all over the world is incorporated into the system. A suitable protective covering is recommended with laser engraving to ensure
safe working. The compact eco protective case has
been designed especially for the Fiber Scan Eco.
This offers optimal laser protection (laser protection category I). A rotation module is required for
the optimal processing of rings and other rounded
components. This tool enables templates of
360-degree engravings to be processed both inside
and outside the piece. The Fiber Scan Eco is transformed into a laser cutting system with the cutting
module. The system is freely adjustable, has an
integrated feed and is also suitable for continuous
operation.
SIRO L ASERTEC 2.0, J42
The Fiber Scan Eco is characterised by its low purchase
price and consistently impressive performance data.
The DigitalWax 030J machine by DWS (right)
144 complex wax objects made by DigitalWax DWS
030J in about nine hours (below).
by Cyril Magne
T
he Horotec group was
formed in 2011 from the
merger of three companies: Miremont SA, HBJO Service
SA and Heco Switzerland SA.
Miremont SA had developed an
international distribution network
for watch repair components while
HBJO SA was the Swiss distribution branch, which sought to provide the necessary structures for
the manufacturing and repair of
watches. Finally, Heco Switzerland SA specialised in the production of tweezers for the watch
industry.
This wide range of expertise brought together
under one roof enables the group to play a key role
on the watchmaking services market with the aim
of improving the working environment. The company is continually
developing high-peformance tools
for perfectionists and this year is
no exception. It has made many
developments to its presses, notably a V2 of the MSA 05.120
unveiled last year. Designed to
remove watch hands without coming into contact with the dial, this
press is equipped with extractors
for hour, minute and second hands
and off-centre hands. It enables
users to take off the hands from
watches with dials where the
hands are impossible to remove by
applying pressure, for example, on enamel dials,
openwork dials and watches with no dial.
HOROTEC
2.0, G40
70 YEARS OF
PRECISION
T H E D I G I T A L W A X 0 3 0 J F R O M I TA LY ’ S
DWS IS A RE VOLU TIONARY DE VICE
FOR T HE PRODUC T ION OF WA X I T EMS
by Roberto Chilleri
W
HOROT EC PRESEN T S
A NEW VERSION OF
T H E M S A 0 5.12 0
Witschi’s product portfolio ranges from large-scale
devices for production to measuring and testing
equipment for watchmakers.
DIGITAL
MANUFACTURING
e worked for six years before presenting it,
because we wanted to be certain it was
perfect and reliable. We’re now proud to
unveil the first printer with multiple laser sources for
the microcasting of wax items in high definition
at a speed that challenges the world of 3D technologies.” So says Maurizio Costabeber, General Manager
of Vicenza-based company DWS, which specialises
in the production of stereolithography printers.
This kind of technology is already widespread
in the world of jewellery and watchmaking, used to
produce wax or castable
resin models, but due to
machining times it struggled to establish itself in
the direct manufacture of
waxes. A problem that the
DigitalWax 030J solves in
full, ensuring print resolution of 17 microns without
short-changing speed to
achieve precision, thanks
to the four laser sources.
REVIVAL
OF THE
PRESSES
The workspace dimensions are also important and
here there is a square plate measuring 300 mm x
300 mm x 300 mm. “Occupying only this amount of
space, you can produce hundreds of wax rings in
five or six hours, or waxes for larger jewellery,” adds
Costabeber.
Like the other machines in the series, the 030J
mounts a class 3B BluEdge laser source, produced
by the DWS research centre. It can also work
with castable resins and Irix Digital Stone, a nanoceramic material developed for dental work and
which DWS has introduced
to the world of jewellery.
Not only materials, but
also software is developed
in house, ensuring maximum compatibility with
other DWS models and
with CAD-CAM programs. And another step
towards quality digital
fabrication is made.
DWS
2.0, E61
WIT SCHI PRESENT S
NE W T ECHNOLOGY
AND PROVEN PRODUCT S
F O R W AT C H I N S P E C T I O N
by Markus Strehlitz
O
ur company stands for quality, pioneering
work in watch measuring technology, tradition and top Swiss products,” says Martin
Schürch, Marketing Manager at Witschi Electronic.
“We see quality as identifying and meeting customer
requirements, as well as ensuring our products are
both high quality and high performance.” Witschi
has been active in the field of precision measurement and testing technology for 70 years. In 2006,
the Witschi family handed over management of the
company to Andreas Bläsi and Daniel Hug. Ninetyfive percent of clients are from the watch industry.
The firm covers a broad spectrum of products –
from large-scale devices for production to measuring
and testing equipment for individual watchmakers.
Witschi says its technology is recommended by leading watch manufacturers worldwide, with the products satisfying the industry’s current certification
requirements. Client needs have shifted considerably
over time, Schürch reports. Ease of operation and reliability are currently in particular demand. “One thing
which has changed enormously is the technology used
to meet these needs,” says Schürch. “It started with
a simple seven-segment display or strips of paper
and now we have high-resolution, true-colour touchscreens with graphics interfaces.”
Witschi shows its new products at Baselworld
every year. New for 2016 is the Watch Expert, which
can be used to test the accuracy, amplitude and beat
error of mechanical watches. Visitors to Witschi’s
stand can also discover other highlights, such as the
Chronoscope S1. This highly professional measuring
instrument offers precise and efficient inspection of
mechanical watches in repair service, as well as quality control in industrial manufacturing and watch
laboratories. WITSCHI ELECTRONIC 2.0, F66
I.N.O.X. PROFESSIONAL DIVER #241736
LIFE IS YOUR ADVENTURE
HALL 1.1 - B75
MAKERS OF THE ORIGINAL SWISS ARMY KNIFE | ESTABLISHED 1884
HALL 1.2
BOOTH A41
72 INNOVATIONS
DA I LY N E W S
INNOVATIVE BR AZING PASTES
The new Park brand from Sistotec includes
soldering machines such as the one pictured
(right). They have flashback arrestors
to make them safer.
H I L D E R B R A N D I S T H E L E A D E R I N P R E C I O U S M E TA L P O W D E R S
by Cyril Magne
I
SISTOTEC
ADDS PARK
PRODUCTS
T O O L S O F F E R E D AT
COMPE TITIVE PRICING
A
new brand
has
been
added to the
portfolio of Sistotec
Ltd., a global jewellery
tools supplier and manufacturer.
Its name is Park. “They make consumable products (such as cutting tools or drill
bits), and brushes, polishing items, beading tools,
all ‘bread and butter’ items,” says Sistotec
CEO Lenny Klein. “Consumable products are
100-percent necessary for any jewellery production. We’re able to offer distributors prices they
couldn’t receive before.” Park’s products also
include soldering machines, which feature
flashback arrestors to make them safer and help
small and larger factories,” adds Klein. “We hope
to offer these at 50 percent less than any other
competitive machine.”
Sistotec is adding manual rolling mills too,
also under the Park name. “We will be offering
these to jewellers who need quality and low prices,”
says Klein.
SISTOTEC 2.0, E65
n 1972, Howard H. Hilderbrand, the company
founder, introduced the first-ever brazing paste
to the jewellery and watch industry. Brazing
paste offers many advantages: not only does it allow
for substantial economy in material, time and
inventory, but it also contributes to a dramatic
improvement in both the quality and appearance
of finished products. Nowadays, the industry cannot work without this paste. Brazing pastes are a
homogenous mixture of brazing alloy powder with a
binder and, in certain cases, with a flux, depending
on the heating technique. The alloy powder has the
function of melting at the desired temperature,
filling the gap by capillarity, and assuring the
strength of the joint after solidification. The binder
ensures easy and consistent dispensing and decomposes upon heating without leaving a residue. The
flux is added when the parts to be brazed are heavily
oxidised or when heating is carried out in air.
Hilderbrand has also developed a range of paste
dispensers, from the reliable and easy-to-use MK3
manual dispenser to a highly sophisticated automatic precision dispenser with temperature
control. The company is able to satisfy today’s market demands for precious metal powders for innovative applications such as Selective Laser Melting
(SLM), Metal Injection Melding (MIM) and
powder spraying. Thanks to the acquisition of new
atomising, classification and analytical equipment.
A large variety of powders can be supplied: gold,
silver, platinum and palladium alloys, as well as
special requests. All the brazing pastes are made
with the in-house alloy powder and everything
Brazing paste dramatically improves finished products.
can be shipped worldwide in just a few days.
Hilderbrand’s specialists can answer customers’
questions and also offer training courses adapted to
particular needs. The health and safety of users of
their brazing pastes is very important to the company,
therefore all their products are compliant with
REACH and ROHS regulations. Hilderbrand is
now ISO 9001:2008-certified. Since April 2013,
Hilderbrand has been a C. Hafner company. For
more than 160 years, the C. Hafner name has stood
for innovative, trendsetting technologies in the
precious metal sector. State-of-the-art precious metal
recycling, a wide range of semi-finished products in
all kinds of alloys and in-depth knowledge of numerous applications form the basis of C. Hafner’s focus
on high-tech production and commitment to
customer care. HILDERBRAND & CIE 2.0, G42
100-PERCENT HIGH PERFORMANCE
INNOVATION AND REINVENTION
R E I N V E N T I N G C A R V I N G T O O L S: U M V P R E S E N T S T H E
N E W G E N E R AT I O N O F G L A R D O N ®
T H E S W I S S S P E C I A L I S T A N D M A N U FA C T U R E R
O F L E A K T E S T I N G M A C H I N E S F O R WAT C H E S
A N D WAT C H M A K I N G T O O L S
by Cyril Magne
by Cyril Magne
C
ontinually seeking out the highest-performing carving tools, Les Usines Métallurgiques
de Vallorbe SA (UMV) is well known as the
international benchmark manufacturer in this sector,
especially with its famous Glardon® line. This is supplemented with the firm’s carbide gravers, as well as
new micro-files.
UMV, which entirely develops and manufactures
its products in house, is introducing the innovative
jeweller’s saw blades to the Glardon® line. Their cutting performance is improved by a beeswax-based
lubricant applied to the surface, ensuring smooth and
UMV’s carbide gravers have an exceptional hardness of 1,500HV.
fluid operation and increasing its service life. With
optimal tooth geometry, the saw has a smooth blade
and is easy to control, giving the ultimate precision.
Made from tungsten carbide, the carbide gravers
have an exceptional hardness of 1,500HV, thereby
offering the perfect blend of hardness and toughness. They are easy to sharpen and remain sharp for
an incredibly long time. Suitable for any kind of
power system, even high-speed cutting, they can be
used on hard materials, as well as gold, silver, brass,
and more. Thanks to their new ergonomic shape,
they are easy to attach to the machine and are available in various shapes: flatedge, round-edge, onglette
and knife.
Finally, with 25-56
teeth/cm, the high-quality
chromium steel micro-files
are available in four shapes
(pillar, bent pillar, threesquare and round). Recommended for linear motorised
movement, they are ideal for
working with different surface types and can easily
reach small areas.
UMV is reinveinting
itself once again, providing
the most amazing tools to
make users’ work even
smoother and easier.
UMV
2.0, F65
R
oxer SA has remarkable expertise and
almost 60 years’ experience in producing
leak testing machines for watches and
watchmaking tools. Thanks to its cutting-edge
production methods, this year Roxer SA is presenting its new machine for airtightness testing:
DECAROX. This innovative product can measure
10 watches at the same time up to 10 bars for
comparison, reducing the ‘standard’ cycle time to
one minute. Furthermore, it does not need a special stand or support and has a full-colour tactile
screen which is highly intuitive.
For driving on press-in case backs or ﬁtting
watch faces and bezels, the company innovates
under the brand name SEILER, with its brandnew pneumatic driving press with driving force
setting. Through its two product ranges, ROXER
and SEILER, the company also continues to offer
its clients customised machines and watchmaking
tools that correspond perfectly to market needs.
Their aim is always to develop reliable and
accurate products that can be used simply and
intuitively.
ROXER 2.0, F63
Pneumatic driving press with force control
(above). Decarox airtightness testing machine
for up to ten watches (below).
Cultivating Beauty For 30 Years
Hall 1.1/B01
Yvel Miami Design District Boutique, Saks Fifth Avenue & select retailers near you
For more information 561-391-5119 usaservice@yvel.com www.yvel.com
76 INNOVATIONS
DA I LY N E W S
EXCITING NEW VENTURES
Orotig has developed a range of laser welding,
marking, cutting and engraving products suitable
for all goldsmithing sector professionals.
SOLIDSCAPE SERVES CHINA’S JEWELLERY MARKE T WITH 3D PRINTING
by Pia Grund-Ludwig
G
PERFECTION IS...
WHEN SUPPLIER AND CUSTOMER
WORK TOGE THER
b y a n n a l i s a f o n ta n a
I
talian company Orotig
offers a dedicated and
extensive range of laser
welding, marking, cutting
and engraving products for
the goldsmithing industry.
“We started life in the
early 1990s and, in just 25
years, we have forged ahead
in state-of-the-art production and development of
laser technology, applied
mainly to the goldsmithing
industry, as well as to various
other fields,” says Alberto
Gagliano, CEO of Orotig.
“Goldsmiths have expressed
a preference for these
machines because, despite
being powerful systems, they
safeguard precious metals.”
“We began with technology for titanium
microcasting and welding, which was challenging to
work with,” recalls Gagliano.
“Then we extended the technology to platinum, gold and
silver, researching and producing customised equipment, suitable for all goldsmithing sector professionals,
from small workshops to
large-scale industry.”
Combining the wisdom
acquired through close cooperation with customers
and professional experience
gained in years of research
and development, Orotig
is able to provide not just
cutting-edge technology but
outright production solutions. Each product is devised
and developed to fit customer
requirements, keeping management costs to a minimum and increasing
productivity to the full.
OROTIG 2.0, G64
GLENDO UNVEILS 3 GRS TOOLS
T W O A R E U P D AT E D B E S T S E L L E R S
lobal growth was the theme for
Solidscape in 2015. Together with
its customers, the firm expanded
capabilities in many regions and continued to build on a large installed base in
the jewellery industry, with over 4,000
Solidscape high-precision 3D printers
in over 80 countries.
Among the 2015 highlights, last
June, Solidscape opened its largest
3D-printing service bureau network,
dedicated to serving China’s domestic jewellery market. This venture
exclusively features Solidscape highprecision 3D printers. “We believe
our collaboration is the driving force in
creating a new 3D printing ecosystem
dedicated to the domestic Chinese jewellery market,” says Fabio Esposito, President
and CEO of Solidscape, Inc. “With Solidscape
high-precision 3D printing technology as the backbone, we are working with the Chinese government
to create an educated, highly skilled workforce. It is
an amazing example of global cooperation.”
Finally, throughout 2015, Solidscape further
raised awareness of the dynamic inspiration between
jewellery, fashion and technology by sponsoring
regional jewellery design competitions and jewelleryinspired fashion events. These efforts will continue in
2016. The goal is to connect even more members of
the jewellery community and ultimately enable creativity from concept to completed piece. At its Baselworld
2016 stand, visitors can enjoy breathtaking graphics
Solidscape-printed wax model of a dragon pendant by
OG-Art Studio, winner of the 2015 Solidscape Design
Competition at Baselworld.
and actual design images from some of the world’s top
designers, the 2016 Solidscape Design Competition
entries (winners are announced on Saturday, March
19) and stunning designs, printed models and cast
pieces from designers around the world.
“I’m very excited about 2016 and how Solidscape
will lead the jewellery industry during this time of
transformation,” says Esposito. “We encourage you to
come and visit our stand and experience how this
future can help you.”
SOLIDSCAPE 2.0, J64
Veyret is presenting a new hand-held tool at
Baselworld, the Diprofil shaper, which enables access
to very narrow spaces (right), Company Director
Cyrille Veyret (below).
by Will am George Shuster
these have the innovative
QuickChange fixture system,
removable handrest and ergonomic grip on the mandrel.
The upgrades, says Glendo,
give better clearance, easeof-scope
centring,
and
increased range of motion.
GRS’s new Acrobat Versa
microscope package stars
the Leica A60. It has the
same strength and rigidity as
the original Acrobat, but with
a new, sleek design that is
easy to move, with lockdown
for comfort during long hours
at the bench. Furthermore,
the A60 has greater depth of
field, due to Leica’s patented
FusionOptics™, and less
adjustment to keep work in
focus on larger pieces. In
Thanks to the sleek design of the new Acrobat Versa microscope package, it is
addition, the field of view is
easy to move and features lockdown for comfort during long hours at the bench.
bright and crisp from edge to
edge.
Since the A60 was not designed to use objeclendo LLC is known globally in the world
tive lenses, GRS engineered a high-quality adaptof jewellery making for its innovative
er that gives full-zoom range with a 0.5, 0.63, or
equipment. The company, which is located
0.75 objective lens. This allows greater working
in Emporia, Kansas, in the United States has now
distance for working room while setting stones.
added three more items to its GRS Tools brand.
GRS also engineered a headrest to mount onto the
Two of the new items are updated BenchMate
A60 for proper ergonomics. GLENDO 2.0, H40
bestsellers: Encore QC and Encore QCX. Both of
G
ALWAYS LEADING
THE TOOLS MARKET
SERVING JEWELLERY PROFESSIONALS
F O R 174 Y E A R S
by Cyril Magne
V
eyret L. is
celebrating
174 years of
business in 2016,
making it one of
Europe’s oldest
tools companies.
Company Director
Cyrille Veyret, who
has managed the
company with passion for 25 years,
has kept pace with
modernity, something which has
been a company tradition for five generations.
Since 1842, Veyret has been offering a complete
range of reliable and useful tools and specialist
products for jewellery market professionals. The
2,400 items in its portfolio, including a great many
innovations, can be dispatched anywhere in the
world in just 48 hours. On Veyret’s new website,
each product in the catalogue is available online,
guaranteeing users immediate access to the selected products.
Veyret is engaged in a constant search for
new products and technologies. The company regularly attends large international exhibitions and
closely follows market trends so as to anticipate
the present and future needs of high-end jewellery
customers and meet specific customer requests.
It therefore comes as no surprise that, over
time, Veyret has become the number one for
jewellery professionals and is regarded as one of the
leaders on the French and European tools markets.
This year, the company is presenting a new tool,
Diprofil. This shaper, presented in the form of a
hand-held tool, can fit into very narrow
and previously inaccessible spaces to eliminate
imperfections related to rapid prototyping or
foundry granulations, using a micro set including
diamond files.
VE YRET L. 2.0, J46
HALL 1.1 / STAND D05 - muzo.co
#UNL O C K YO U R S E L F
St and F85 Hall 2.1
unode50.com
HALL: 1.2 | BOOTH: C01
80 GEMSTONES
DA I LY N E W S
PRAISES FOR THE
PRECIOUS GEM TRIO
S A P P H I R E S, R U B I E S A N D E M E R A L D S O F F E R G R E AT R E T U R N O N I N V E S T M E N T
by Deborah A. Yonick
I
f you are in the market for rubies,
sapphires and emeralds there is
no better place to be than Hall 3.
World-renowned experts in their
field, the top names supplying
these coveted precious gemstones to
the market bring their finest, most
sought-after goods for the industry’s
most discerning buyers.
Vendors say fine goods, especially
non-treated, continue to sell even in the
face of slow economies and have proven
time and again to offer great return on
investment.
“Jewellers are happy to see a nice
selection of stones available to them in
Basel, probably the best quality and
quantity in the past five years or so
because of the slowdown of the
Chinese market due to the government’s crack down on corruption as
well as a general slowdown and instabilities around the world including
almost a complete halt in the Russian
market,” reports Ron Rahmanan, Sara
Gem (3.1, B11), specialising in sapphires, rubies and emeralds.
SAPPHIRES
In sapphires, Rahmanan cites some bargains not previously seen on the market
for certain items like heated sapphires
13 carat, Burmese, no heat, royal
blue sapphire, Sara Gems.
10 carats and up, with prices softening a
bit. Although sapphire specialist Sam
Ijadi, Ijadi Gems (3.0, C33) says rough
dealers in Sri Lanka are working to keep
prices relatively stable by slowing production.
Both Ijadi and Rahmanan describe
sales for non-treated large sapphires
(10 carats plus), Burmese and Sri
Lankan, as on fire. “The superwealthy are getting wealthier
and looking for rare investments,” says Ijadi. “A lot of
people have lost trust in
large white diamonds and
are looking for other places
to put their money. Top
quality sapphires offer
great return on investment. When you see the right
goods, buy them. As prices
continue to rise with escalating
world demand, it becomes more difficult to source high colour and clarity
grade material.”
Rahmanan encourages buyers looking for no-heat sapphires – when you see
it buy it. “It’s a great investment. In the
past five years, prices have doubled,
sometimes even tripled for nice quality
goods.”
RUBIES
Regarding rubies, William Hakimi, A.
Hakimi & Sons (3.0, B31), specialising
in the gem, says that return on investment for rubies for the past 20 years
continues to grow because of their rarity.
“Demand is high and supply is low,
especially in bigger, finer stones. Burmese material is more difficult to get,
but Mozambique is producing some
beautiful material for a great value that
is now accepted by most major buyers as
a nice alternative to Burmese.”
Pigeon blood rubies, A. Hakimi & Sons.
Takat (3.1, B09), who has always
specialised in emeralds from Zambia, is
now also focusing on rubies from Mozambique, particularly on unheated material,
says company CEO Irfan Ahmed. “Since
Mozambique rubies came into the market there has been a lot more good quality material available. Because we cannot
import Burmese rubies into the United
States, this source has provided a wonderful alternative.”
EMERALDS
Emeralds have been especially popular
with top jewellers and brands in their
high-end designs, cites Amit Elian, 4G’s
Trading (3.1, D21), which specialises in
the stone. “The price of emeralds is very
solid. Leading jewellery houses are looking to invest more in fine, top-of-thetop quality material. Even though the
economy is slow, the emerald business
remains robust.”
Ron Rahmanan, Sara Gems, holding
25 piece, natural colour sapphire suite,
totaling 191.93 carats.
The most soughtafter shapes in emeralds,
cites Elian, are cushion,
emerald and pear, especially in pairs for earrings. The best selling
sizes have been in the
8-carat to 15-carat range.
The bottom line for buyers – always buy quality, hails Lucas B.
Amelung, Crown Color (3.1, D29), who
39.01 carat Colombian
emerald, 4G’s Trading.
notes that for top quality material in ruby,
sapphire and emerald,
certificates from leading gemmological laboratories provides a level
of confidence for buyers. “We usually provide
certificates from several
labs including SSEF, Gueblin, GRS, and
AGL,” he says.
3 Q U E S T I O N S , 3 A N S W E R S
NEVER JADED
Focus on special and rare is crisis proof
UHL HAIL S JADE BE ADS AND CARVINGS
A D E S I G N E R FAV O U R I T E
WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES FACING
THE DIAMOND BUSINESS?
by Deborah A. Yonick
There are many, including the slowdown of
world economies, devaluation of currencies in
emerging markets, declining oil prices, lack of
industry-wide marketing, and lack of capital as
many banks have pulled out of the trade.
J
WHAT HAVE YOU DONE IN YOUR COMPANY TO
IMPROVE YOUR BOT TOM LINE?
In the past 10 years, we have shifted our business away from white diamonds to specialise in
important fancy colour diamonds, particularly
pinks and blues, which have proven to be crisis
proof in every economy.
WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS FOR THE
BUSINESS MOVING FORWARD?
Elie Abou Jaoude, partner in Elie
Brilliant, specialising in fancy colour
diamonds.
Despite the challenges, I’m optimistic that we’ve
been through the worst with brighter days ahead.
We’re starting to see some currency improvements,
and we’re working with some banks to help bring
3.1, B15
back capital to the industry.
Bigi Uhl showing an assortment of natural,
untreated jade bead strands.
ade has captivated humankind
throughout history. Known to the
Chinese as “The Stone Of Heaven,”
jade has been long revered as a symbol of good luck, enhancer of health,
happiness and wisdom, and guard
against evil spirits. Gem of balance and
harmony, jade is said to carry a sweet,
light, nourishing energy.
Coveted for some 7,000 years,
jade’s appeal lies in its subtle, glossy
lustre and many nuances of colour, hails
Bigi Uhl of Uhl. The Swiss designer
specialises in natural, untreated,
A-quality jade. She notes that the
gem’s durability, because of the way its
microscopic crystals link together,
makes it a favourite material for jewel-
lery designers, although its toughness
makes it particularly challenging to
carve.
Designers are flocking to the material not only for its durability but also
the many colours it comes in. Uhl notes
that in Asia, there are 60 different
names for green. “People who work
with jade just fall in love with the
material,” she says, noting that next to
beads, carvings in pairs are particularly
popular for designers of earrings. “What
makes jade quite popular and in
demand especially with our clientele is
its rarity. It’s such fascinating material.
You won’t find two of the same anywhere, which can really set your jewel3.1, A17
lery apart.”
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WATC H E S AT H A L L 1 . 0 B O OT H C 3 3 .

daily news - MCH Group

Transcription

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