Daily News 3 NEW - India International Jewellery Show

DAY 3
6th August, 2016
WHAT’S ON
TODAY
Seminar: (Mezzanine, Hall 1)
Time: 10.00 am - 11.00 am
Topic: GJEPC Institutes Speak
(Free Session)
Time: 11.00 am - 12.15 pm
Topic: Parameters to Increase
Profitability
Time: 12.30 pm - 1.30 pm
Topic: Facilitate Gold Financing
(Session in Hindi)
Time: 1.30 pm - 2.30 pm
Topic: Identify Synthetic Diamonds
Time: 2.30 pm - 4.00 pm
Topic: Power of Merchandising Visual & Product
Time: 4.00 pm - 5.30 pm
Topic: Price v. Volume
Platinum earrings set with
diamonds and emeralds
by Rosentiques
India International Jewellery Show
Haute Couture Jewels Shine At IIJS
A
good design is the soul of a jewellery piece, and at the 33rd
edition of the IIJS, one gets to see many such collections
that highlight a blend of creative and technical expertise.
Exhibitors this time have picked up cues and have come up
with super-light jewellery across the pret, couture and bridal
categories owing to the sluggish pace of the market and the high
gold rate.
A well-designed collection of cuff links in silver titled ‘Thee
Wild’ is displayed by Jewels Emporium, Jaipur. Partner Anup
Bohra informed that apart from showcasing their avant-garde
and one-off Masterstrokes collection, this time they have
decided to venture into men’s jewellery. The rugged and wellexecuted line has an element of crystal in each piece.
Justin Varkey of Jewel Ace, Jaipur, revealed that their lariats
with thewa motifs have generated a lot of interest at the show.
Another collection that is receiving a good response is the diverse
range of cuff links crafted in gold or silver. Priced between
R1,500 and R50,000, the cufflinks are adorned with enamel,
thewa work, honeycomb structures and antique finish. The cuff
links also have hints of tiny emeralds, turquoise, lapis lazuli,
rubies, sapphires and more. “This category works very well for
gifting purposes and customers have placed many orders on
day one itself,” Varkey noted. The other lines that Jewel Ace is
getting great response for is the Tamanna collection weighing
between 12 gm and 14 gm, consisting of pendant and earring
sets ornamented with fine quality pearls. The company has
also introduced diamond- and gem-studded interchangeable
earrings that can be worn in three or four different ways. “It can
take you from the work place to a party in the evening within
seconds.”
Mansukh Kothari of Vasupati Jewellers, Mumbai,
commented that he and his design team had done their
homework months in advance and they decided to bring in
three new collections in 22-karat gold that are contemporary
yet connect to Indian traditional roots. The Zahra line bears
blooming gold flowers suspended from textured and plain
necklaces. The Aavali collection is dominated by multiple rows
of gemstones dotted with motifs adorned with South Sea pearls,
polkis and emeralds and rubies, and the Samyukta collection
consists of traditional antique jewellery adorned with South Sea
pearls, khakha motis and more. “We have tried to rein in the
price points, while not compromising on the design element.”
Platinum jewellery at Rosentiques got a touch of colour
thanks to fine quality Zambian emeralds. Amish Kothari,
(continued on page 2)
COVER STORY
(continued from page 1)
director of the firm, has specially designed a limited edition of 10 earrings and rings
in platinum set with fancy-cut diamonds and emeralds in various cuts such as pears,
cabochons, octagons and carved gems. The earrings are as light as 25 gm to 30 gm,
while the range of rings weighs between 15 gm and 20 gm. The retail price of this
platinum collection is between R10 lakh and R15 lakh.
The confluence of ancient crafts and new technical treatments is bringing in a
new genre of fusion jewellery. Vipul
Mehta of Laxmi Jewellery Exports
presented some exquisite pieces of
kundan ‘partaj’ work in bridal sets
that married technical excellence
with crafts such as filigree, bead
work and more. Mehta said, “We
have tried to reduce the gold weight
in every bridal set by around 2025% even as we have retained
bigger, fuller forms. Our collection
Gem-set cuff links
by Jewel Ace
for the Nazraana brand features
diamonds from Rio Tinto
and we have enhanced these
magnificent choker sets with
South Sea pearls and fine
enamels. These, too, are getting
Textured gold bangles
a very good response at the
by NM Karel & Sons
show.”
Umrao Jewels saw a good
number of clients on day one. Shashwat Shah, co-founder of the company, stated,
“We have reinvented old classic designs that will appeal to the modern woman. Fiveand seven-row ladas are extremely popular. Chokers with antique finish and layered
with long multi-row necklaces are still going strong. Pasas and jhoomers are the other
hot-selling categories.”
D.D. Karel, director of NM Karel & Sons, New Delhi, informed that this time
the company had experimented with different surface textures in their 22-karat
gold bangles and kadas. The designs are minimalistic yet very arresting with
predominant use of twisted
gold coils and gold tubes
finished with filigree, lace work
and enamelling. “Other than
design, the weight of the piece
is the primary factor when
buyers make the decision to
order jewellery.”
Multi-row choker
by Vasupati Jewellers
Pradeep Jethani of Jet Gems
informed that illusion-set baguette
and round diamonds in square
shapes were in demand apart
from detachable multiple rings
that could be worn singly or all Fusion necklace
by Laxmi Jewellery Exports
together. Gold-intensive bangles
with light, lacy forms or creased textures were favoured. Pink gold is an all-time
favourite with consumers this season, he added.
Earrings and bracelets are the most popular jewellery categories that buyers are
looking at, said Karan Garodia of Sanskriti. Their floral earrings set with pink and
yellow sapphires in briolettes and pears were favoured. Also, their back-to-front
earrings and ear crawlers, all fashioned with corals, tanzanites, morganites below R1
lakh were preferred.
Most manufacturers agree that buyers
want a high design quotient with lower price
points. Most of the buyers have cut down
their purchases by 30% to 50% as compared
to last year, but the average sweet spot for
necklace sets is between R5 lakh and R7
lakh, and earrings and rings under R3 lakh.
Anything above R15 lakh is moving slowly.
Pink and blue sapphire ear
studs by Sanskriti
Synthetic Melee Screening Transparency & Standardisation
A Must To Retail In Rural India
Services Gaining Pace
T
he first seminar on day two on the screening and identification of synthetic
diamonds was moderated by Shripal Desai of GII. The seminar touched upon the
various options available for fast, accurate and cost-effective methods of screening
synthetic diamonds. Dr. M.D. Shastry, head of R&D at GII, informed that the newly
launched GII-Aerotek Quick-CHK instrument is able to detect the phosphorescence of
colourless IIa and IIb synthetics in melee sizes, a category that is a growing concern
for the trade. “Most IIb lab-grown diamonds show good phosphorescence and this
makes it possible to locate them in studded jewellery as well,” he revealed. Dr. Shastry
also noted that synthetic diamond manufacturers are now able to grow ultra-large
type IIa single crystal diamonds of up to 100 carats using HPHT methods.
Matthew Hall of GIA India
said the quality of CVD and
HPHT synthetic diamonds
and the technologies to
produce them have improved
significantly in the past 10
years. Hall added that the most
accurate and efficient way
to sort melee diamonds is to
determine the diamond type – all white melee synthetic diamonds are type II, while
all HPHT treated white diamonds are type II or type IaB. He informed that the GIA has
recently developed a sophisticated device for melee diamond screening, with high
accuracy and efficiency that also sorts diamond colour automatically. Hall said the GIA
will introduce the Melee Analysis Service in India in September this year.
Synthetic melee in the trade are mainly produced using HPHT technology as CVD
technology is not financially suitable for mass production of melee diamonds. Apart
from the main CVD diamond manufacturers such as Singapore-based Gemesis (IIa
Technologies), and the US-based SCIO (Apollo), Washington Diamonds and Diamond
Foundry, there are many growing facilities in China and India, Hall revealed.
2
T
he seminar Retailing Jewellery in Rural India enlightened participants about the
psyche of a rural consumer, his needs, and the growth potential of retailing in
rural India. Anil Prabhakar, director of 4 AAy’s Consulting, was the moderator for
the seminar. India’s rural and semi-urban markets account for 60% of India’s gold
jewellery consumption. While earlier the market was dominated by traditional family
jewellers, many chain stores have turned their focus on rural markets.
Vaideeshwaran N., the national sales head for Goldplus, a Titan brand that caters
to the semi-urban and rural areas, pointed out that one needs to create awareness
about the brand and engage consumers. “Goldplus created awareness by taking
the Karat Meter to various villages and asked people to come and test the purity of
their jewellery. 96% of the jewellery that was brought was under-karated. We then
educated them about hallmarked jewellery and gave them an opportunity to visit
our factories to convince them about Goldplus’ high quality controls and checks and
gold purity assurance,” said Vaideeshwaran N. He added that brands also need to
convince people in rural India to break the bond with their family jewellers. This can
be done by showing that that the brand stands for honesty and transparency.
Keyur Shah, CEO of Muthoot Exim Precious Metals Division, said that a brand
need to standardise its products. In 2013, Muthoot launched its jewellery brand
Swarnavarsham Jewellery which offers hallmarked jewellery with easy instalments
between 1.5 gms and 9.5 gms in tamper-proof packaging, a first of its kind in India.
They have met with great success and have had 1,30,000 customers in the last three
years with 40% of them being repeat customers. He also added that consumers are
not affected by the stock market or gold price.
Sankar Sen, chairman and managing director of Senco Gold Group added that
rural India is neglected when it comes to designs and high quality products. Urban
customers are pampered with more choices. Senco Gold ensures that they treat their
rural customers at par with their urban counterparts. The stores in rural India too are
well stocked with hallmarked jewellery in a wide variety of designs. Senco initially
met with resistance in the local markets but once they convinced the people about
transparency and quality, the brand was well accepted.
GJEPC NEWS
‘The Generic Diamond Campaign
Is About Creating An Impact’
When will you start working on the campaign?
The posters are already up at IIJS to invite retailers to
be a part of this initiative. I strongly urge the retailers
to register themselves with the GJEPC and there is no
cost involved in it.
Sachin Jain
President, Forevermark India
Can you tell us more about the De Beers MoU with
the GJEPC?
We’ve just signed the MoU and it is still in the initial
stages. There is a strong requirement for generic
promotion to boost the demand for diamonds as well
as consumer sentiments. This is one thing that we at
De Beers and the GJPEC both feel strongly about. It is a
collaborative effort. We will offer concept and branding
strategy for the generic promotion and the GJEPC will
provide the legs to the programme by roping retailers
into the campaign.
C
GJEP
S
NEW
Venue: Hall 2
Tell us more about the promotion. Who is your
target audience?
Basically, this campaign is about creating an impact.
We are looking to target young married couples
between the age group of 25 and 35. Consumers don’t
just buy jewellery after seeing an ad. We want to bring
in an emotional connect. We also want the campaign
to be inclusive and reach out to everyone. We plan to
focus on small diamonds in order to keep diamonds
accessible to all. Since it is a very short period, we will
not develop a new product for this campaign at this
stage. We will work with something that the retailers
already have in their inventory. We are looking to
promote cluster-set diamond jewellery. These are
not high-end pieces and are easily affordable. The
campaign will focus on the new husband’s perspective
– the fact that he cherishes his wife and the happiness
that she has brought into his life.
How soon will you launch the campaign?
The initiative will roll out in October during the festive
season and will continue for three months.
Tell us more about Forevermark’s designer
collaborations?
The designers bring in their own perspective. We
launched a collection with Bibhu Mohapatra in April and
will soon launch a collection with couturier Sabyasachi
Retailers & Manufacturers
TO PA RTICIPATE IN TH E NATI O NAL ADVERTI S I NG C AM PAI G N.
STARTI NG O C TO B ER 2 016 .
VISIT THE GJEPC B O OTH FO R D ETAI LS AND R EG I STR ATI O N.
Mukherjee in September. The collection has a vintage
appeal and draws on the aesthetics of the art deco era,
particularly the 1920s to 1940s. The collection focuses
only on earrings and rings.
Forevermark’s merchandising strategy for Bibhu
Mohapatra’s collection is different; currently, it is
available only in two stores. The response is very
decent and it should pick up in the coming months.
Soon the collection will be available in eight stores.
GJEPC Meet On Proposed
Gems & Jewellery Park At IIJS
| Date: August 7, 2016 | Time: 12.30pm to 1.30pm
Industrial parks have become an
integral part of business models
for leading sectors all over the
world; they enhance business
and trade development which
leads to economic growth.
T
he Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council
(GJEPC) has invited all its members, IIJS exhibitors,
and the trade at large in Maharashtra and beyond to
attend a presentation on the proposed state-of-theart Gems & Jewellery Park, which will be based in the
financial capital, Mumbai.
The main aim of the Gems & Jewellery Park is to
integrate the small and medium manufacturers of
handmade plain gold and studded jewellery under
one roof. The ministry of commerce had requested the
GJEPC to frame the policy of the Gems & Jewellery
Park along the lines of the software, leather or textile
parks in the country.
The Park will be the first of its kind in the country,
4
WE WANT YOU
equipped with the best technology and machines for
greater efficiency and to promote better work culture.
The main thrust of the Gems &
Jewellery Park will be to offer
a convenient manufacturing
location to the handmade and
small-scale sector. The Council
has already initiated discussions
with
the
Maharashtra
government for the venture and
the signs are encouraging in developing this concept
in the near future.
DESIGN CORNER
‘Designs & Trends Are
Changing Faster Than Ever’
Saurabh Mody
Co-founder, Amdean Exports
(Angaaraa)
How would you rate IIJS in terms of
meeting new clients?
Being the largest trade show for the gems
and jewellery industry in the country, it
definitely is a big platform to meet and
connect with the fraternity.
Tell us more about the collections/
themes that you will be displaying at
the show.
Design is an evolving process. How one
presents the story is as important as the
design. We have built a lot of designs around
centre stones, in classic formats. Also, we
have worked extensively on building a
separate line using illusion centres with
brilliant cuts surrounding it, so it looks
exciting. Overall, we are keeping the format
simple, and letting the diamond be the hero.
You use a lot of colour in your jewellery.
What are the popular gemstones
trending currently?
I love colour! It adds character to a piece
of jewellery. What we use at Angaaraa is
what our customers ask us to use and what
we believe looks good, complements the
design and enhances the jewel. We have
stuck to the basics and have extensively
used rubies, emeralds, spinels, rubellites
and tanzanites in different shapes.
Are you concentrating more on any one
product category? If yes, which one?
We have made a range of products
from rings, earrings, sautoirs and cuffs
in different price points. No degree of
separation here but, if you were to ask me,
earrings sell well as a woman can adorn
herself with a nice pair of earrings along
with a nice dramatic cuff and she is ready
to go out for a party.
What according to you does the
customer of today prefer?
The perception of jewellery is changing.
The consumer has an endless supply
chain to choose from. Trends are
changing faster than ever before. People
are far more exposed and travelled and
understand luxury in a much deeper
way. I believe that in today’s day of high
competitiveness, there is still room for
design and creativity. Products which
are high on aesthetics and detailing will
always have an edge over the rest.
What are your expectations from this
show?
In these challenging times, it will be
interesting to see the fraternity respond
and adapt to changes. I wish all exhibitors
a successful IIJS 2016!
‘Our Jewellery Is A Twist On The Classics’
Aakash Barmecha
CEO
Yoube Jewellery, Mumbai
Is this your first venture in IIJS? Or
have you been participating under a
different company name?
We have participated in IIJS earlier but took
a break for a short while. However, we are
now back!
What are your expectations from the
show this time?
After a very dull year, hopes are up for this
show as the markets seem to show some
signs of recovery.
6
Your company deals in designer
diamond jewellery. What are you going
to present at the show?
Yes, we always strive to present something
innovative and unique. We are presenting
The Luxe collection, which consists mainly
of rings and earrings featuring fancyshaped diamonds in bigger sizes. It’s a
twist on the classics.
Tell us in detail about certain
collections. Have you only used
diamonds or other gemstones?
Using only diamonds is plain boring unless
they are solitaires. Being a gemmologist, I
am passionate about colour gemstones and
so, they are a must in most of my pieces.
You can find all sorts of precious and semiprecious stones used in our collections. All
the collections are unique and sure to stand
out from the crowd.
Which gem and diamond cuts have
you used? What are the popular price
points for diamond jewellery?
We have used full-cuts, rose-cuts, polkis
and teamed them with stones like kunzites,
rubies, emeralds, and tanzanites. As for
the retail price range, we are offering
diamond jewellery priced from H2,00,000
to H10,00,000.
What are the latest market trends and
what do consumers prefer these days?
Smaller pieces with larger diamonds and
minimal design are moving well.
Which jewellery category is most
popular now?
Given the market conditions, earrings are
probably the hottest-selling category as of
now, followed closely by rings.
BRAND WATCH
Csaba Hegedus
Isabelle Lopes
Shaun Leane
Gem
Visions
S
warovski presents its 2017 edition of Gem Visions offering a
detailed examination of the cultural megatrends that are currently
shaping design directions for the fine and bridge jewellery industry.
Swarovski’s team of select industry experts has analysed the results
of the detailed investigations conducted and has extracted four
dominant themes governing jewellery design. The four trends are
Existence, Haute Gems, Easy-Trans-Form, and Self-Art.
Daniela Villegas
In Existence, science meets spirituality in a dance of exploration
that seeks to integrate the hidden and perhaps mystical aspects of
the planet into a grand story that celebrates life on earth set within
the context of the wider universe, while Haute Gems celebrates the
resurgence of opulence as seen in monumentally spectacular jewels
that shout pure drama.
Jessica Fong
Easy-Trans-Form is part of a new desire for versatility in jewellery, for
jewels that adapt and transform, that work together with women’s
multi-faceted lives. The fourth trend, Self-Art is a completely new
approach to self-expression through jewellery. Featured here are
designer pieces in collaboration with Swarovski that stay true to the
four trends for the coming year.
Lydia Courteille
Sarah Ho
8
Tomasz Donocik
Isabelle Lopes
BRAND WATCH
Razzle
Dazzle
I
magem presents Dazzle – a classy collection created for the global
woman of today, who is liberal, well-informed and independent to
the core. The collection focuses on solitaire-styled jewellery which is
made affordable through the intelligent use of round diamonds and
baguettes. Fine lines of gleaming -2 size diamonds complement and
encase the composite emeralds and rounds. The collection consists of
elaborate designs for special occasions as well as classy minimalistic
designs for everyday wear.
Imagem, the authorised licensee for Disney Jewels, will also
launch their exclusive collection of pendants, earrings, rings, charm
bracelets, necklace sets and oval baby kadas crafted in plain gold,
studded with diamonds as well as with Swarovski cubic zirconia.
Fusion of
Colours
Y
S18, a high-end jewellery brand of Intergem Exports, Indore,
presents a stunning range of colourful baubles that are suffused
with contrasting shades of gemstones. The ombre-shaded unique
creations in yellow, white and rose gold, set with gems and fancy
colour diamonds, are perfect accessories for daily or party wear.
“Blending colours with everyday life is the inspiration for this
collection,” says Sudeep Sethi, director of YS18. “Our personal
passion and interest in colour stones and appreciating their value is
the foundation for many of our jewellery pieces,” adds Sethi.
“We love the Art Deco style, but also wanted to build a collection
around exclusive pieces that offer the same luxurious appeal and
importantly, are affordable. Bursting with the spirit of new life, our
selection of modern jewellery will add that extra special touch to
your personality,” says Sudeep.
The collection is designed by acclaimed painter and jewellery
designer Yogendra Sethi, who believes that colours infuse a fresh
spirit in life.
10
BRAND WATCH
Contemporary
Cuffs
T
his season, Sundaram Chains has launched a
collection of their statement 18-karat gold bracelets
encrusted with diamonds. Crafted with modern
techniques, the inspiration has been taken from floral
temptations. The composition of fancy-cut diamonds
adds to the beauty of the pieces. The double-safety
magnetic lock not only provides security, but also a fancy
look. These pieces can be teamed with both Indian and
Western outfits.
A bridal necklace with matching earrings
are defined with modern textured finishes
and kundan work.
The 22-karat pachheli bangle is set with
kundan and intricate meenakari work.
Only For
Brides
The 22-karat geometric
bangle is highlighted with
modern motifs in traditional
meenakari work.
N
. M. Karel & Sons, New Delhi, presents a new line
of 22-karat gold jewellery that displays interesting
textures, kundan work, and intricate Bikaneri meena
to create a rich heritage look with a touch of modern
influences. Flaunt these ornate traditional pieces on your
special day and feel like royalty.
11
BRAND WATCH
Dance of the
Peacock
G
old Artism celebrates nature through its creations and
immortalises them in gold and diamonds. The layered
necklace depicts a peacock perched atop a gold scroll. While
the peacock is set with blue stones, its feathers are illustrated
with blooming flowers. The necklace is further accented
with a polki-encrusted kundan motif with a hanging blue
droplet that breaks the monotony of the gold. Inspired
by Kathakali, a South Indian dance form, the necklace is
simple yet expressive.
Venus Online
Couture India 2016 Challenge At IIJS
TRADE FAIR
Registration Opens
Indian Jeweller (IJ) magazine is organising an exclusive business
boutique show named Couture India from September 2426, 2016 at the Taj Palace in New Delhi. Couture India
will showcase the top 40 makers of designer, jadau and fine
jewellery who will get a chance to connect with the top retailers
of the country. The exhibition is open to all retailers and storeowners who want to add couture or fine jewellery to their
inventory for the upcoming Diwali and bridal season.
For Registrations, visit www.coutureindia.show for more
details or call 0141-4112393 or 022 26756055.
ulars
Reg
ELITE CLUB
The Elite Club comprising large and medium retailers
has undergone a comprehensive makeover and now
includes leading buyers from tier I, II & III cities across
India. It offers select retailers privileged hospitality in their
exclusive lounges, where one can rejuvenate, interact
with guests, get refreshments and experience relaxation
at its best.
COMPLIMENTARY SHUTTLE SERVICE
For Bombay Exhibition Centre (BEC): From Goregaon (E)
station to the venue, between 7.30 am and 10 am. From
HIGHLIGHT
V
enus Jewel, a leading manufacturer and supplier
of polished diamonds, has started a contest to
communicate its technological capabilities at the IIJS
(Booth #J 25-29 & H 26-30). The challenge is to judge
the clarity grade of a diamond after having viewed it
virtually on the website www.venusjewel.com. The right
answer will win a surprise gift! Venus Jewel believes that
the buying experience on its website is just as good as
physically seeing the diamond. “To encourage confidence
and trust in every customer and every prospective buyer,
it is important to first provide maximum product
information, educate them and ultimately empower our
partners in their buying decisions,” says Rajesh R. Shah,
partner, Venus Jewel.
the venue to Goregaon (E) station between 5 pm and 8 pm.
For The Lalit Hotel: Shuttle Bus Services from BEC to The
Lalit Hotel will be available at regular intervals.
ONLINE BUSINESS MATCHING PROGRAMME
The Online Business Matching Programme enables registered
visitors to find and interact with exhibitors that match their
business profile. It allows visitors to post their businessrelated enquiries, view the latest collections, send enquiries
and schedule appointments. Managed by experienced
representatives, the kiosks are located throughout the halls.
COFFEE SHOPS & CAFETERIAS
Grab a cup of coffee or a sandwich at any of the 10
coffee shops spread across Halls 1, 5 and 6 operated by
Barista Lavazza, Di Bella and Moshe’s. Additionally, the
cafeterias located near Hall 2, 3 and 6 provide a delicious
spread of vegetarian food, including meals for members
of the Jain community.
BUSINESS CENTRE
A full-fledged Business and Communication Centre is set
up in Hall 1 for your convenience. Facilities like internet
access, meeting & conference rooms, photocopying and
fax are available on a chargeable basis.
SMOKING LOUNGE
Smoking is strictly prohibited in the entire exhibition area.
A smoking lounge facility has been provided for exhibitors
and visitors.
Editorial, Design and Production
www.spentamultimedia.com
Disclaimer: This publication may not be
reproduced, whether in part or in whole, without the
written consent of Spenta Multimedia.