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Welcome
to Martinique !
«Madinina», the flower island, here is the visiting
card of this island with appearances of paradise.
Heavenly beaches, generous sun, lush nature:
Martinique will not fail to offer you what you’ve
always dreamt of... And behind this postcard
image, this beautiful island reveals incredible
richness. Come during the five days of the Carnival
and enjoy the swing of dance, mix with the colours
and taste enthusiasm. In August discover a unique
event: the regatta of skiffs. Unmissable island of
the Caribbean, La Martinique, is a festival with a
guaranteed change of scenery. No matter what
attracts you: forests, water activities, museums,
rum distilleries, peaks and mountains, azure sea or
restaurants on the waterfront, you will be delighted
even in your dishes. Because here, the cuisine is
delicious and tasty. You will taste acras, the dog
sauce, fresh mango, lobster and crayfish! Delicately
spiced recipes that is passed from generation to
generation. Another nearby, and not the least, of
this beautiful island: its neighbour islands. You
are close to Sainte-Lucie, Saint-Vincent and the
Grenadines. The splendours of the antilles arch.
Coconut trees, white sand and clear water british
version! If you need to stay a few days or surf here:
undoubtedly, the visit will seduce you.
Welcome to Martinique... to explore a lifestyle,
an exuberant nature and a bunch of shapes and
colours. What are you waiting for? 1,128 mi ² of
happiness awaits you.
The editorial team
PRINTED IN FRANCE
PETIT FUTE BEST OF MARTINIQUE 2016
Le Petit Futé was founded by Dominique Auzias.
It is published by Les Nouvelles Editions de l’Université
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Completion date: 21/12/2015
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To contact us by email, indicate the surname
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For the letters to the editor: info@petitfute.com
To call Martinique from abroad :
Dial 00 (+) to have international and then
dial 596 (international code of Martinique)
then the number of your correspondant
(Without the 0)
Contents
„„
INVITATION
TO TRAVEL „
The extras of Martinique ........................8
Practical information ............................10
Ideas for your trip .................................12
How to get there? .................................16
„„
GOURMET
MARTINIQUE „
Gourmet Martinique..............................24
„„
DISCOVERY „
Martinique in 25 key words .................34
Overview of Martinique ........................38
Geography ...........................................38
Climate ................................................39
Environment- ecology ..........................40
National parks......................................40
History ...................................................42
Politics and economy ...........................43
Arts and culture ....................................45
Festivities ..............................................48
„„
FORT-DE-FRANCE
AND IT'S
SURROUNDINGS „
Fort-de-France and its surroundings ..52
Fort-de-France.....................................52
The surroundings of Fort-de-France .....70
Le Lamentin ......................................70
Ducos ...............................................74
Rivière-Salée ....................................76
„„
NORTH CARIBBEAN „
North Caribbean....................................80
Schœlcher ...........................................80
Case-Pilote ..........................................84
Bellefontaine ........................................86
Le-Morne-Vert .....................................86
Le Carbet .............................................87
Saint-Pierre .........................................91
Le Precheur .........................................98
„„
THE INTERIOR
NORTH „
The Interior North ...............................102
Fonds-Saint-Denis .............................102
The North Interior ............................103
Morne-Rouge .....................................104
Ajoupa-Bouillon .................................107
La montagne Pelee ............................108
„„
SOUTH
CARIBBEAN „
South Caribbean .................................110
Trois-Îlets...........................................110
Les Anses d’Arlet ...............................135
Le Diamant ........................................146
Sainte-Luce .......................................153
Rivière-Pilote .....................................161
Le Marin ............................................163
Sainte-Anne .......................................173
„„
THE ATLANTIC
COAST „
The Atlantic coast ...............................186
Le Vauclin ..........................................186
Saint Esprit ........................................190
Le Francois ........................................191
Le Robert ...........................................197
Gros-Morne .......................................201
Saint Joseph ......................................202
La Trinité ............................................203
Presqu’Ile de la Caravelle ...................204
Tartane ...........................................204
Morne-des-Esses...............................209
Sainte-Marie ......................................209
The Marigot .......................................212
Le Lorrain ..........................................213
Basse-Pointe .....................................213
Macouba............................................213
Grand-Rivière.....................................214
Index ...................................................216
4
Martinique
MARTINIQUE
Pointe du
Macouba
Pointe Ténos
Havre de
la Trinité
Rade de
Saint-Pierre
Baie du Galion
0
Havre du Robert
6 km
Aéroport de
Fort-de-France / Lamentin
Pointe des Nègres
LES PETITES ANTILLES
Anguilla
St-Martin
St-Barthélémy
Saba
Barbuda
Pointe du Bout
St-Kitts
Antigua
Nevis
Montserrat
Morne Bigot
450 m.
GUADELOUPE
Marie-Galante
les Saintes
Dominique
MARTINIQUE
St-Lucie
Barbade
St-Vincent
Bequia
Canouan
Cariacou
Moustique
Union
Ronde
Pointe des
Salines
Grenade
5
6
© ESTELLE75 - ISTOKCPHOTO
© AUTHOR’S IMAGE
© TOM PEPEIRA – ICONOTECR
The tropical forest.
Before leaving for fishing.
Humming-bird.
Saline Beach.
© VINCENT FORMICA
INVITATION TO TRAVEL
Grand Riviere ‘s
fishing port
© AUTHOR’S IMAGE
The extras
of Martinique
A heavenly destination
In Martinique, beach and sea are always within
reach. There are no less than 200 varieties
of sand on this island. With Black Handle,
Céron, Trabeau, Cap Macré, the Salines,
picture hunters and lovers of sports will not
be disappointed. And if ever, the sea and its
many assets bores you, the lush vegetation
of Martinique wil offer you to stroll around for
the pleasure of the senses.
A pleasant climate throughout
the year
© AUTHOR’S IMAGE
Here, the climate is tropical, hot and humid. If
there are two seasons: the Lent (hot and dry
stretching from December to May) and winter
(wetter that lasts from June to November),
the weather rages with temperatures with an
average of 27 °C. The rain never lasts long,
and the heat is not excessive there. So there
is no «ideal» period for leaving, only that in
September and October, you will have the
island for yourself. Caution: from the end
of August to at the end of October, tropical
Back fishing.
storms, depressions or hurricanes often
occupy the fronts of the stage.
A convenient island
Martinique is a French overseas department. It presents daily many advantages:
same currency, same language, same level
of health (fresh medical reimbursed by the
Social Security...). Note that, in the decentralisation, the constitutional reform project aimed
for the changing of the articles 72 to 74 title
(XII) to ensure the island a wider autonomy
was rejected by referendum.
An easy trip to organize
You can manage it perfectly by yourself, and
therefore arrange your stay easily. You just
need to find a flight and accommodation
corresponding to the airport (live, by Internet or
agency). There is no organised public transport
(except for the town of Fort-de-France). You
must have a car and a road map. You will find
many excursionists and suppliers, inter-island
flights, supermarkets and grocery stores.
9
© VINCENT FORMICA
A historical and cultural heritage - THE EXTRAS OF MARTINIQUE
INVITATION TO TRAVEL
Carnival.
An island with multiple facets
With its 1 128 mi ², Martinique has multiple
facets. In the south, you find many coves
with the beautiful white sandy beaches and
the seaside attraction overrides the rest. In
the north, the Pelée mountain stands proudly.
The road leading from Schœlcher to Precheur
overlooks steep cliffs. The coast reveals black
sand beaches, remains of the eruption of
mount Pelée. In the east, the strongly
rugged landscape is ideal for green tourism.
Facing the immensity of the Atlantic Ocean,
the north-east coast, known as the «coast
in the wind», is rough (except some beaches
in the South).
Ecotourism booming
Green tourism is booming in Martinique. The
aquatic fauna with mask, fins and snorkel;
mangrove in kayaking, visit the domaine de
L’emeraude or the volcano house, botanical
gardens, hiking, canoeing, horse riding,
sailing... ecotourism has fine days in front
of him on these magnificent landscapes. With
its eclectic coasts, its rich and varied seabed,
its tropical forest, its steep paths, rivers and
waterfalls: nature is displayed generously.
A privileged tourist location
Martinique is located in the heart of the west
indies arch. This interesting location allows
you to discover the english speaking islands
(cultures and atmospheres): Sainte-Lucie, in
the south, fifteen minutes by plane or 1 hour
30 boat; Grenadines, further south, with their
heavenly beaches; Dominique, in the north,
with its rivers and its Rasta; and, east of
the antilles arch, Barbados, offering all the
facilities of an island for tourist trips.
A historical and cultural heritage
The island does not lack resources on this
level. Creole museums, distilleries, gardens,
homes tell you about its rich and compex
history. You can also easily explore the paths
too busy to stop, drink and chat in accessible
towns. On the roadside, if you sometimes think
your lost, there is always someone to come
and say hello, another to help you. Music
is everywhere. The «ragga» and the «zouk
lovers» will follow the round.
During the carnival, a general jubilation
seizes, for five days, all cities of the island.
Dare follow the «vidés», these splendid
processions, settling of the carnival that the
population follows with heat while swaying
to the sound of rhythms. Another image of
«Epinal-en-Caraïbe», the ti-punch is a real
ritual of the caribbean life, to which you’ll
sacrifice yourself willingly, preferably in a glass
struck bearing the effigy of great distilleries
named after the old creole families.
Practical
information
Money
We are in France, so the euro is the local
currency.
w„Banks. Most French banks have branches
in Martinique. Ask your agency to give
you the closest agency of your place of
accommodation. Credit cards are accepted
everywhere. American express is also very
present on the island.
w„Budget. Prefer a «package» formula
including the flight and accommodation,
if your budget is tight; some E700 to
E1,200 according to the season. The trip a
la carte is more expensive, not less than
E1,500 for a week (flight + hotel + car).
Destination in short
The island
w„Size: 1,128 mi ² (according to the Issuing
House of the overseas departments, the
IEDOM).
w„Status: overseas department (DOM) since
March 19th, 1946.
w„Prefecture: Fort-de-France (34 cities in
all).
w„M a j o r c i t i e s : F o r t- d e - F r a n c e
(94 000 residents, is the most populated city of
Martinique), Le Lamentin (40 000 residents),
Le Robert (24 146 res), Schœlcher
(21 863 res), Le François (20 000 res), Sainte-
Marie (19 528 res), Saint-Joseph (18 000 res),
Ducos (17 000 res).
Population
w„Population: estimated at 403 355 inhabitants in 2012.
w„Density: 356 hab/km ², stronger density
of the four DOM.
w„Official language: French.
w„Regional language: Creole.
w„Main religion: Catholicism.
Economy
w„Rough GNP/inhabitant: E21,131 (estimate
2011).
w„Total GNP: 8.3 billion euros (2011 estimate).
w„Leading vendors: Metropolitan France,
European Union, Latin America.
w„Unemployment rate: 20.8 % (estimate
2011).
Telephone
w„Telephone code: +596.
w„Telephone information: 118 218 or
118 712.
w„Mobile phones work well. An advice
to our readers however: be careful with your
bill when you are in the Caribbean! The system
of roaming can be very expensive. Explanation:
your metropolitan mobile operates in the West
Which accomodation formula to choose?
Visitors staying for the first time in Martinique generally choose a classic hospitality.
Indeed, the tour operators include the destination with the flight and accommodation.
However, the hotel residences with small equipped kitchen is the most popular formula.
Finally, the seasonal rentals complete the range of possibilities: from studio to family
villa.
The cottages and guesthouse are also expanding. Respect of environment and invitation
to green tourism are the spearheads of this new type of rental services including a big
rise of quality.
Seasonal variations - PRACTICAL INFORMATION
(if you have the proper subscription), but
remember that all calls (entering and retiring)
are charged to you! The best solution is to
buy at your arrival (if you have the intention
of often using your mobile) a mobile kit with
prepaid card.
To reach someone
w„Landlines. All landlines (ten digits) start
with +596.
w„To call Martinique from France.
Simply dial 10 figures without dialing the
00 or the international code.
w„To call the mainland from Martinique.
Simply compose the 10 figures. It is not
necessary to dial the 00 33. Martinique
is France!
w„To call foreign land from Martinique. Dial
00 for the international then the code of the
country you want to have then the number.
w„To call Martinique from abroad. Dial
00 ( +) to have international then the
596 (international code of Martinique) then
the number of your corespondant. ( without
the 0 )
Jet lag
5 hours difference with France during winter.
6 hours during the summer. In January, when
it is 18: 00 in Paris, it is 13: 00 in Martinique.
In July, when it is 18: 00 in Paris, it is 12:
00 in Martinique.
Formalities
For European Union citizens, an identity card
is enough to go to Martinique. However, for the
english islands (Sainte-Lucie, Saint-Vincent
and Grenadines...) a valid passport is required.
For the Canadians, Americans , a passport
is sufficient. You do not need a visa for stays
of less than 30 days.
Children have a personal ID or appear on
the parents ID. Miners traveling alone must
present an authorisation of leaving the
territory established by the parents.
Weather
Martinique enjoys a pleasant hot and humid
tropical climate.
The average temperature is 26°C. With
3,000 hours of sunshine annually, on the
plains and the coasts of the south, the sun
Seasonal variations
If, in certain regions, there are also two, or
three seasons, it is difficult to distinguish them
here. We prefer employing the term «period».
w„From December to the end of April, it is
the «high season»: tourists flock and rates
of tour operators increase.
w„From May to the end of November,
the «off season» period: the European
holidaymakers sort of ignore the destination
insofar the sun is present in Europe. The
prices are lower starting from the end of
April until mid-December, enjoy! Avoid,
however, to plan a cruise on a sailboat in
September, because it is the month when
you have the most risks to meet a tropical
storm or even a cyclone!
w„S u m m e r h o l i d a y s r e p r e s e n t
the «intermediate seasons»: summer holidays
allow the West-Indians in metropolis to visit
the country. It is often difficult to find a rental
car and plane tickets are expensive (especially
if you prepare at the last minute). Also note
that in July and, above all, in August it is very
hot and more humid, it rains more often but
still remains pleasant.
Travelling out of times of great attendances,
we recommend you May and June, October
and November: the climate is pleasant and
at low prices.
INVITATION TO TRAVEL
w„Mobile numbers. All the numbers start
with +696.
is never absent long. There are however
two seasons:
w„The hot and dry Lent lasts from December
to May, knowing that from February to April,
the island goes through a period of great
drought. The sunshine is then at its peak. The
temperature in this season varies between
27°c and 34°.
w„The hivernage, which stretches from June
to November, is more humid. The cyclone
risk is stronger from the end of August to
the end of October.
The island is constantly swept by sea breeze
from the east and the North-East, the heat is
never excessive there. Halfway between the
Tropic Of Cancer and Ecuador, the island on
the other hand is subject to a high humidity
rate. Abundant rains complement the heights
of north constantly, where the temperatures
can drop slightly. The record of cold established in 1965 defers 12°C to Fonds-SaintDenis and 8°C on the summit of mount pelée.
But these figures are quite rare.
11
Ideas
for your trip
The French West Indies lend themselves ideally
to family holidays (with or without children
or friends. The elderly, athletes and lovers
of ecotourism are not left out. It takes at
least ten days to fully enjoy your trip, but a
fortnight seem to us the ideal option. However,
the package mostly offered remains the week
package. To be avoided if you suffer from jet
lag (5/6 hours).
w„Public transport is still insufficient
despite the timid arrival of TCSP, thus it is
essential to rent a car. The positive aspect is
independence: regardless of the hotel that
you choose, you can move according to your
desires, without being obliged to stay on
the seafront.
w„Unlike the traditional seaside resorts
(Morocco, Tunisia, Greece, Turkey), the
concept of distance does not exist. The only
city is Fort-de-France. The crowds refractories
can easily find accommodation near the busy
seaside centre while being away.
w„Martinique is separated in three
areas with very different characteristics:
South, the Center and North. The
south matches the tropical seaside image
you generally have, while the North is the
symbol of intense and green nature. The
Centre, is especially characterised by a strong
urbanisation and an important population
density. It is truly the economic lung of the
island where most industrial and commercial
areas.
Short stay
If you order a travel agency (or offers on
Internet), the formula of stay usually offered
is the week (package includes seven nights,
sometimes even six, which is rather short).
Experienced will confirm it, one week there is
barely enough. The flight takes approximately
8 or 9 hours and there are 5 to 6 hours of
difference. Is quickly calculated. You go for
example Saturday Paris, you arrive in the
afternoon or early evening the same day. You
must take the plane depending on saturdays,
in order to arrive in metropolis Sunday (usually
with the dawns, night on the plane). If it is
estimated that the following the arrival, it is
the phase of awareness and the last day is
reserved for storage, remain you only five
days full to discover the island.
By considering these parameters, we advise
you to target your needs and to choose a
geographical area of stay accordingly. If you
like the beach, the quiet coves and water
activities, go to the South of the island. If
you like hiking, mountain and eco-tourism,
North (or interior is preferable). La Martinique
is certainly an island, but you still can visit
many attractions. Which is more, the road
running the North-South dessert is often traffic
around Fort-de-France, which increases in a
substantial way times of your trip.
Here is an example of stay that allows you to
enjoy Martinique. We leave the principle that
you stay in the South of the island (SainteLuce or Le Diamant).
Day #1
You arrive at the airport at Lamentin. You are
perhaps exhausted by travel and you have one
idea at the head: slip by to your hotel. A good
shower, and the bed. Five or six hours of jet
lag depending on the season, it is necessary
to cover. You will see more clearly tomorrow.
Day #2
Wake up with the sunrise (5h30-6h), jet lag
forces. After a good night’s sleep, you are in
the form and you taste already on the pleasure
of the tropical well-being. The sky is blue,
with a strong light. We suggest enjoying the
hotel (relaxation, pool, beach), taking your
landmarks and arrange week.
Day #3
You start to get used to the difference. Get
to explore the island. The morning departures
are highly recommended: here you go early,
as the sun goes down around 18: 00. We
offer two routes:
w„Tour 1: on the west coast, the so-called
«under the wind». Go up the Caribbean
south coast, stop in the morning with the
village of the Bays of Anses-d’arlet to have
breakfast. Then Fort-de-France management
Long stay - IDEAS FOR YOUR TRIP
Day #4
Three classics for one day theme:
w„One day day charter, which means a
walk on board a boat, often «maximumcatamarans». Departures from Les TroisIlets offered, Le Marin or Sainte-Anne. The
most classic tour is the Caribbean south
coast and, for lovers of the sea, the day in
Sainte-Lucie (english-speaking island located
south). 9: 00 Airport departure and return
at sunset. Lunch on board, swimming stops
with possibility for snorkelling (diving palmmask- snorkel).
w„A day at the «white sandbars.» Everything
is in the name: they are sandy and shallow
funds, located along the Atlantic Coast
between Le Robert and Cap-Chevalier. To
explore Martinique without having bus (a glass
of rum), preferably sitting in the water and
far from the coast is waste! Many companies
organise this excursion: start the morning
around 9: 00, discovered trois-ilets, comments
on the vegetation, stop for a swim and baptism
of rum in the famous «white sandbars,» lunch
and return in the afternoon.
w„Trip aboard a 4x4. Thanks to the layout
and the climate of the island, many providers
organise 4x4. It is a rather original way to
explore the island. Appreciated by the majority
of our readers, the formula likes. Two different
tours and two strong concepts are offered:
North or South. For the authenticity and the
tropical forest, prefer North.
Days #5 and #6
If you are not too exhausted, you can enjoy
these two days to sports: scuba diving (half),
stroll in the jet ski (half) or canoeing (for
Cap-Chevalier or three Islet, Francis, Robert),
windsurfing (beach), Cap-Chevalier tourist
flying by plane or helicopter, canyoning etc. For
lovers of local culture, the visit of a distillery, a
museum (La Maison de la Canne for example)
or the option in a cockfight pitt (River- Pilot)
are essential.
Day #7
It is already leaving. The flights are hung in
the late afternoon. Nice little touch, some
structures of accommodations allow you to
exchange before departure at the airport by
placing a bag storage and showers. It is an
advantage, because you can fully enjoy your
last moments in the island.
Long stay
There are two Martinique. The green and blue
one. The first, in the north, is punctuated by
dull and pitons, covered with primary forest,
tree ferns and gigantic trees. The second,
more seaside, stretches from the peninsula
La Caravelle to the southern tip and monte
peacefully along the Caribbean coast. If you
can stay two weeks in Martinique, one can
only too advise you to share your stay between
its two faces and add to it, if you want it,
a small cruise on the side of Sainte-Lucie,
Saint-Vincent or Grenadines.
Fifteen days in Martinique is a formula that
allows you to fully enjoy your holidays. Time
«to put you» and not to visit to the step of
course. Four or five days in North for the
discovery of the island, the natural side.
INVITATION TO TRAVEL
for shopping and market. Faites route north by
the Caribbean coast to climb to the Fisherman.
Visit the botanic garden of Balata (Fort-deFrance) and lunch on the beach in Hut (a
drink in the Petibonum restaurant on the
beach). In the afternoon, a stop in Saint-Pierre
(old town). You leave while turning by road
from morne-rouge and cross the road to the
Trace (tropical forest) down to Fort-de-France.
Simply amazing.
Touch for those place on Pointe-du-Bout or
in Anse-à-l’Ane: half-day in Fort de France is
possible, from the maritime shuttles take it
and the shuttle boat is very pleasant. With a
departure to 8: 30/9am, you will be logically
back around noon, unless you stay lunch.
w„Tour 2: on the east coast said «in the wind».
You start with Le Vauclin, adorable fishing
village authentic. Continue with Le François
(almost mandatory stop at the home Clément),
Le Robert, the caravelle peninsula. Lunch in
Tartane in Granny Nanny by exempke. Then
North Atlantic equipment. In Sainte-Marie,
visit the cemetery, the museum of Rum or
Banana. Le Marigot, Le Lorrain Macouba,
where you will discover Distillery JM. And
finally, Grand-Rivière and its cliffs. There,
try the coconut ice sold by a charming old
caribbean. It is the end of the world, the island
of Dominique points her nose beyond cliffs.
The road ends here. Back your steps and take
Le Lorrain after the road leaving to Mornedes-Esses, Saint-Joseph... And return to your
place of residence.
Two advice: you can not stop you on all city
site, so make a choice. The winding roads
of the interior (between River- Savoury and
Rivière-Pilote) offer wonderful landscapes!
13
14
IDEAS FOR YOUR TRIP - Long stay
Six days in the South to fully enjoy the seaside.
A few days in the islands of the area. A good
idea to avoid doing needless kilometres.
w„4/5 days in the North of the island. Radiate
around mount pelée to discover the luxuriant
vegetation, the unique flora, rivers and
waterfalls and of course to climb the mountain!
Lovers of nature will not be disappointed with
the Mark in the middle of the tropical forest.
Note that Martinique offers ecotourism more
and more. On the programme: canyoning,
horse riding, marked trails. For the exploration
of the north, you can stay on the side of La
Trinité and enjoy the beauty of the peninsula
La Caravelle. Absolutely visit: Grand-Rivière,
Basse-Pointe, Sainte-Marie, its museum of
Rum and Banana. The coast «under the wind»
(Caribbean, of Schœlcher to Saint-Pierre)
offers black sand beaches and small fishing
villages... Guaranteed peace and authenticity.
Unmissable stops, from north to south: the
cove and the home Céron, Saint-Pierre, FondSaint-Denis...
w„6 days in the South of the island. The
coast that stretches from the Trinity in Cap
Chevalier is a real jewel. The islands of Robert,
white sandbars of Faula Tip, Le Vauclin and
fish markets. Sainte-Anne and of course, with
its famous beaches, including Saltworks. The
village has retained its traditional look, a cliché
postcard recommended for lovers of the beach.
Here, the sea is, more beautiful everywhere.
Plunges you discover multicoloured fish, we
bask in the shade of coconut and sample
crayfish the sand in Cap Chevalier. A little
further, Caribbean side, visit Sainte Luce, Le
Diamant and a break in the pretty village of
the Bays of Anses-d’arlet. Also discover the
twin bays (one of white sand, the other with
black sand) that are Anse Dufour and Anse
Noire. Here, there is the advantage of being on
the waterfront, while enjoying the picturesque
and quiet. For those who love entertainment,
head for Pointe-du-Bout: restaurants, bars,
many excursionists (especially water), shuttles
to Fort-de-France, marina...
w„3/4 days in the Grenadines islands or
in La Dominique. Finally holiday in beauty,
embark from Le Marin in a sailing boat with a
skipper to discover the Grenadines (the plane
is also available for those who have the being
sea sick). It is not unusual to see dolphins
in this bewitching water. There, stay at the
dream beaches. The formula is declined for
a day for those who are in a hurry. You must be
presented around 7: 00 - 7h30 for the airport
for a return around 18: 00. The plane (between
new and nineteen places) allows you above all
to admire for one hour the heavenly beaches
of the Caribbean. Arrival at Union, you are
taken care of by the captain of sailing. This
walk allows you to have a quick overview of
the most beautiful sites: Union, famous Tobago
Cays and the small island of Palm Island.
Plan between E250 and E400/person. You
can also get to Sainte-Lucie. The providers
offer two formulas (one day) to Sainte-Lucie:
maritime transportation on board the fast
shuttle express of the islands (Fort-de-France)
or on a maximum- catamaran (departure from
the Sailor ). Once there, the local guides make
you discover the island. Lunch on the spot and
return in Martinique around 18: 00 (possible
by plane; 20 minute flight only).
Thematic Stay
Lovers of hiking, 4x4, cycling or diving will
discover the great diversity of Martinique,
far from city life seaside. For fans of water
sports, the Antilles are also celebrated for
its climate and their mode of wind. Lovers of
stays golfing can check with golf course of
les trois-ilets or specialised tour operators.
Cruises
If you choose a cruise in the Caribbean, here
is a little idea of course. You can enjoy two or
three days at one of the islands of... and you
have the choice. For example, the neighbouring islands of Dominique and Sainte-Lucie
present a face contrasted by their englishspeaking setting.
The archipelago of the Grenadines (between
the island of Saint-Vincent and the island of
Grenada) offers simply dream beaches. You
can organize your trip only (by getting in touch
with the aviation companies or sea), but we
advise you to go through an agency. They
offer a package for a full day: public rate is
identical, unless you fall into one exceptional
period (special offers).
w„In the deep south, Grenadines: most
local travel agencies offer this day trip by
air transport, steps forces. You must be
presented around 7: 00 - 7h30 for the airport;
you are back around 18: 00. The plane (new
or nineteen places) allows you above all to
admire for one hour the heavenly beaches
of the Caribbean.
You then arrive at Union where guests are
entertained by the captain of sailing. This
offer a quick overview of the most beautiful
15
Thematic Stay - IDEAS FOR YOUR TRIP
Paradise of the hiker, Martinique is far from
being a destination only «beaches and deckchairs». North and south, walkers have enough
to occupy yourself.
w„The North of the island: allow between
two and three days to discover the island and
paths that wind through the tropical forest.
Unmissable, the ascension of mount pelée can
be made by several paths of different levels. At
the beginning of the morne-rouge, the path of
the Fin (6 hour round-trip, average level) offers
magnificent panoramas. By the Fisherman
(6 hours the one-way, mean/difficult level),
you will have the way tangible still see traces
of the eruption of 1902. Descending to the
east coast, the surroundings of Fonds-SaintDenis abound in interesting walks. Easier,
but to avoid if you suffer from giddinesses, the
canal of Slaves (4h ticket, easy level) follows
the course of the canal de Beauregard, with
beautiful views of the Carbet mountains. More
difficult, along the route of the Trace, the
rise of the Carbet mountains (8 hour round-
© DANIELE CATI – ICONOTEC
Hiking
trip, difficult level) allows you to discover the
tropical forest. Careful! Hiking is difficult and
has many difference because the six pitons
extend over 16 km away and m sometimes
reach the 1,000.
w„Peninsula La Caravelle: a day will be
enough for you to discover the natural beauties
of the reserve La Caravelle. The large and the
path is mainly shaded and easy level. The
path (2 hours) winds between the mangrove
and the dry forest via the chateau Dubuc. As
for the large trail (4 hours), you will come to
the lighthouse La Caravelle and allows you
to enjoy beautiful views Baie du Trésor. Be
careful, some features are in the sun.
w„The south of the island: explore the
mountains to the beaches. Chemin des Anses
d’Arlet (6 hours, easy level) will allow you
to discover the peninsula Sainte-Anne and
discover its beaches and landscapes. Atlantic
coast, hiking in the Traces of the Caps is
one of the most picturesque, to explore on
foot or by bike, in one or more stages. On
the side of Vauclin, you can visit the domaine
du Grand Macabou along the coastline of
Small with the Macabou Grande Anse. But
one of the most original hiking remains that
crosses the Savannah of the Petrifications
(5 hour round-trip, easy level), in the peninsula
Sainte-Anne. In this desert expanse which
owes its name to the fossilised trees, you can
see some cacti and acacias still to grow. The
landscape is striking.
INVITATION TO TRAVEL
sites stroll: Union, famous Tobago Cays and
the small island of Palm Island. The expedition
justifies high prices (allow between E250 and
E400/person): all day, searching for an archipelago, from island to island!
w„In the south, Sainte-Lucie: independent
since 1979, this small island is interesting
tourist – growing. The providers offer two
formulas (one day) to Sainte-Lucie: maritime
transportation on board the fast shuttle
express of the islands (Fort-de-France) or
on a maximum- catamaran (departure from
the Sailor ). Once there, the local guides make
you discover the island. Lunch on the spot and
return in Martinique around 18: 00. You can
also go to Sainte-Lucie by plane (30 minute
flight only). If you are travelling independently,
the vehicles are quite expensive. The petit
futé prefer the collective, less expensive and
unusual buses.
w„In the north, Dominica: this real
mountainous paradise with the 365 rivers
is quite unknown metropolitan tourists.
Level beach, not much, but the nature
lovers are spoiled: steps in the mountains,
lakes... Spontaneous landscape and natural,
welcoming and wild. The island is connected
to Martinique by sea shuttle express of the
islands. You can also buy a pass in the travel
agencies. If you have time, there are two or
three days.
Petit-Piton.
How to get there?
With an organised trip
Tours, excursions, relaxation stays or
diving, combined in catamaran or rigid sail,
honeymoon and wedding anniversaries: the
offer for Martinique covers a wide range
of activities and possibilities. Specialists
are numerous and offer trips for all tastes.
From about E500 (excluding flights) for 8 days
and 7 nights hiking; E700 for a stay under
the sign of 9 days and 7 nights relaxation.
The offer is also very important in order to
arrange tailor-made holiday. The professionals
offer the necessary services to concoct you
a program à la carte.
Getting there
By plane
w„Distances. Distance and times of flight
Les Antilles are about 7,000 km from Paris
(8 hours), and about as much, at 500 km
diffrence, the large European capitals. They
are located about 3,150 km from New York and
3,600 km from Montreal. For South America,
the closest is Venezuela, just about 1000 km
away, or one hour by plane.
w„Rates. Average prices for a flight ParisFort-de-France: high season (November to
March + July, August and Christmas): from
E720. Low season (April to October, except
for July and August): from 400. Note that the
price changes depending on the company
and, especially, the time of booking. To obtain
interesting rates, enjoy the frequent offers
throughout the year.
Main companies serving
the destination
„„
AIR CARAÏBES
& 0820 835 835
www.aircaraibes.com
Air Caraïbes, a French airline offers regular
flights from Orly Sud to Cayenne, Fort-deFrance, Pointe-à-Pitre, Port-au-Prince, Santo
Domingo and Saint-Martin.1 to 2 daily flights
are available to Guadeloupe and Martinique,
three weekly flights to Guyana, up to three
flights per week to Haiti and the Dominican
Republic and up to 2 flights per week to Saint
Martin. This service, provided by an Airbus
A330, is complemented by the regional
network offer of the company. Air Caraïbes
offers three classes of service on board: Soleil
(Economic), Caraïbes (Premium economy),
Madras (Business). Check the website for
current promotions. All flights are displayed
and the booking system is integrated into
the site.
„„
AIR FRANCE
& 3654 – www.airfrance.fr
Air France offers up to 14 weekly direct
flights from Orly West . The airline serves
Fort-de-France in less than 9 am on board
of apparatus offering a high level of comfort
and equipped with 3 cabins travel: Economy
, Premium Economy ( day cab ) and Business.
New seats equip the Business and Premium
Economy cabins and seats in the Economy
cabin are all equipped with individual screens
nearly 100 films and 300 albums and a wide
selection of video games.
„„
CORSAIR
France & 39 17
www.corsair.fr
The regular company Corsair connects
daily Fort-de-France from Orly Sud. If you
live in province, you can buy combined tickets,
including a travel in the TGV (partnership
TGV AIR from 18 metropolitan cities), and
the Corsair ticket.
Corsair offers more spacious and more
comfortable cabins on a fully reconfigured
fleet. New ergonomical seats, with a better
comfort, more Entertainment on board, with
tactile and interactive individual screens,
proposing a wide range of films, reports,
and games.... The webbsite facilitates the
rates search, possibility to book 24 hours in
advance, choose your seat, edit your boarding
card. You can also book online your duty free
products with discounts up to 40%. You can
also order «gourmet meals « (from E10) of
marine, local, Italian, or gourmet type...
These changes concern the economy class
«Horizon» but also «Grand Large». The passengers of the premium class have a private
lounge in the airports of Paris Orly and Fortde-France with free wi-fi – press service
– buffet and drinks.
A good improvment for the company (excellent
news) while preserving competing rates, which
still has the best value for money of the market.
17
To stay - HOW TO GET THERE?
To stay
Accomodation
„„
AIRBNB
www.airbnb.fr
Created in California in 2008, this rental
company of rooms, apartments and other
types of accommodations furnished between
individuals is very popular. This simple concept
operates in more than 34,000 cities around
the world. Thanks to Airbnb, you can rent for
a few days a room at the owners, a house or,
why not, a villa on the beach. Everything goes
directly on Internet where you get the listed
ads displaying several photos and practical
information provided by the owners. Research
is launched by town, according to the dates
and the desired type of infrastructure. The
results are sharp on the map of the city,
which makes the location by district. Hosts
ans guests can exchange and check their
respective personal spaces, because the site is
a sort of social network (you must be identified
to concluye a transaction). After a stay, it is
possible to go on the page of the announcement with comments visible to all. Everything
is perfect and written in French, and the
company has a desk in Paris. They offer
serious offers and assistance to the owners
and guests. A good way to find uncommon
and charming accomodation and sometimes
feel welcomed and at home!
© VINCENT FORMICA
„„
XL AIRWAYS
Martinique
& 0892 231 300 (0,34 euroTTC/min),
www.xl.com
The French airline is the only one to serve the
airports Pointe-à-Pitre and Fort-de-France
from Paris – Roissy Charles de Gaulle (terminal
2A). Rotations of three flights per week for
each destination in Airbus A330. Based on
a model of ultra competitive prices, with a
price of call from E429 including all taxes
(to go and visit Paris Pointe-à-Pitre or Paris
Fort-de-France), the have always included
free hot meal, water, tea and coffee during
the service, as well as a frequently changing
audio-video program. A selection of snacks
sweet or savoury as well as hot and cold
drinks are also available at an additional cost.
INVITATION TO TRAVEL
„„
NORWEGIAN AIRLINES
Martinique & +1 800 357 4159
www.norwegian.com
An exceptional launching price at E88 plus
taxes, for a trip, between Fort-de-France and
each of the three served cities.
A new company is present starting from
December 2015 in Martinique. It is Norwegian
Airlines that marked the launch of three
weekly direct new lines from the Us. On its
servicings between the United States and
Fort-de-France, the company will use Boeings
737-800s offering 186 seats. It will be the
first line on the Caribbean to offer free wi-fi.
- New York JFK) /FDF: 3 daily flights on
tuesday, thursday and saturday
- Baltimore-Washington International
(BWI) /FDF: 2 daily flights monday and friday
- Boston Thurgood Marshall Airport (BOS)
/FDF: 2 daily flights on wednesdays and
sundays
Fishing boats.
18
HOW TO GET THERE? - To stay
Hotels
Guesthouse
„„
AUX-ANTILLES.FR
Martinique
www.aux-antilles.fr
info@aux-antilles.fr
It is a hotel reservation office that covers the
area of «Petites Antilles», the Grenadines to
the islands of Saint-Martin. The principle is
simple: the web surfer can choose his destination, make his reservation according to the
real availability immediately and confirm his
stay by simply connecting the number of his
credit card in fully secure way. The site is
also a mine of information on the islands:
history and heritage, geography and climate,
monuments and sites to visit...
„„
GÎTES DE FRANCE
Gallery de la Baie
30 rue Ernest Deproges
FORT-DE-FRANCE (Martinique)
&05 96 73 74 74
www.gites972.org
contact@gites972.com
Monday to Friday 8am-3pm.
In full development, this accommodation
formula has a lot of sucess. A guide is updated
every year and is available at the reception
desk. An economic solution for families or
groups, favouring relationship with nature
and the inhabitants.
„„
KARIBEA HOTELS
Martinique
&05 96 48 50 00
www.karibea.com
A local brand belonging to the Fabre group
which manages standing hotels in Martinique
and Guadeloupe. Do not hesitate to visit their
website with its last minute offers.
© DR
„„
PIERRE ET VACANCES
The village of Sainte-Luce
SAINTE-LUCE (Martinique)
&05 96 62 12 62
www.pierre-vacances.fr
contact.pvci@pierre-vacances.fr
It is classified as a 4-soleils (4-suns) village.
Since 1999, this famous group has built two
beautiful homes in Sainte-Luce, Martinique,
Saint-Anne and Guadeloupe. These are two
very beautiful hotel complexes.
Valley of Desolation.
Good tips
„„
ARCHIPEL ÉVASION
1 Rue Jean-Jaures
SAINTE-LUCE
&05 96 35 14 10 /06 96 43 30 35
www.archipelevasion.com
contact@archipelevasion.com
Central booking office for prestige villas and
apartments in Martinique.
After for 11 years work in a travel agency as
honeymoons activity manager, Laura Chollet
set up home in Martinique in 2008 to create
her own agency, Archipel Evasion. Her aim:
help guests in creating their personalized
individual trip. Based in Sainte-Luce, Archipel
Evasion offers rentals of about sixty luxury
villas associated with excursions and a range
of personal services: airport transfer, shopping
delivery, cleaning, chef cooking at home,
wedding ceremony... Leisures and wellness
Getting around - HOW TO GET THERE?
complement the services: massage in your
villa, cookery classes, of local craft. With
family or friends, you can then have your
dream holidays at your own pace.
Getting around
By Plane
„„
AIR ANTILLES EXPRESS
& 0 890 648 648 /05 96 42 16 71
www.airantilles.com
The company has got good prices for the links
Fort-de-France, Pointe-à-Pitre – Saint-Martin
and Saint-Barthélemy and the Dominican
Republic. You can book online, a few clicks,
real-time and 24: 00 24 hours, your plane
ticket with direct access to all the offers at
competitive rates especially sales «flash».
„„
AIR CARAÏBES
Airport Aimé Césaire
LE LAMENTIN
& 0820 835 835
www.aircaraibes.com
Besides the transatlantic, Air Caraïbes also
serves Fort-de-France, Pointe-à-Pitre, and
the following caribbean destinations: Saint-
Martin, Saint-Barthélemy (Service operated
by Saint-Barth Commuter from Saint-Martin),
Saint lucia, Haiti, the Dominican Republic.
„„
ATIS SURVOLS TOURISTIQUES
Lamentin airport
General aviation area
LE LAMENTIN
&05 96 51 66 88
www.atisfwi.com
info@atisfwi.com
Open from 8am to 6pm every day.
A team of professional pilots who offer tourist
flights, inter-island transportation. All are
direct flights and hours of your choice. It is
also a flying school. They also rent planes
on request.
„„
CHARLY BRAVO ECHO
Lamentin airport
Area of general aviation
LE LAMENTIN
&05 96 51 31 12
www.charly.bravo.pagesperso-orange.fr
charlybravo.echo@wanadoo.fr
Monday to Sunday (8am-6.30pm).
Flying school. Rental. Flight baptism, tourist
overview of the island.
By Ferry Boat
„„
EXPRESS DES ILES
Terminal Inter Iles,
Quai Ouest
Gare Maritime
FORT-DE-FRANCE
&05 96 42 04 05 / 0 825 35 90 00
www.express-des-iles.com
The express train of the islands connects
Martinique to the neighboring islands of the
north: Dominique or the Guadeloupe like those
of the south like Sainte-Lucie.
The Express of the Îles dessert, departing from
Fort-de-France, Guadeloupe, Dominica and
St. Lucia and Saintes, on ultra modern catamarans, all equipped with one upper deck in
the open air. The journey time for Guadeloupe
is 3 hours without making a stop (3 hours
45 with a stopover in La Dominique), 1 hour
20 for Saint lucia, 1 hour 30 for La Dominique,
2 hours 45 for Saintes. Ask about discounts
(baby, child, young and elderly person,
subscriber, groups from 3 people), they are
numerous and very interesting. You can travel
with your vehicle from one island to the other.
Many agreements between the express train
islands and certain hotels of the neighbouring
islands are to be found in their brochures.
INVITATION TO TRAVEL
„„
VILLAVEO
Quartier Bac
Allée Hermann Littée
DUCOS &01 76 38 00 50
www.villaveo.fr
reservation@villaveo.com
The rental of villas is developing exponentially in Martinique in complement of the
hotel offers. Villaveo is a structure created
by specialists of the destination and tourism.
Three associates coming from the finance
and luxury hotels world decided to settle
by the sun! They are young, super trained
with marketing techniques and they linked
their know-how on this diffusion site of
seasonal announcements. Here one invites
you to discover Martinique differently, while
residing within villas or apartments of charm.
All the goods are selected with a charter
quality. It fullfills all types of budgets, from
the luxury villa to the small apartment of
charm. Only common denominator: the quality
of the accommodation. The agency offers also
concierge services. Don’t trouble yourself
any more with the intendance services (chef
at home, shopping on line...), they do it for
you! In the same way, they offer a wide choice
of activities on the spot or out of the beaten
tracks.
19
20
HOW TO GET THERE? - Getting around
Taxi
„„
MARTINIQUE TAXIS
Rue Carlos Finlay
& 0899 238 866
24/24, 7/7. They offer services in all kinds:
transfers, hotels, shopping...
Rent a car
„„
AVIS MARTINIQUE
&05 96 42 11 00
www.avis-antilles.fr
resamq@avis-antilles.fr
In 1946 created by Warren Avis in the United
States, Avis quickly grew to become a world
leader in the car rental. Wherever you are
in the world, you will be close to an Avis
agency. In Martinique, a fleet of more than
700 vehicles, available in the agencies at the
airport, Trois Islets, the harbour of «le Marin»,
and a delivery service in hotels and in the
port of cruises. Small budget car (Who Opel
Tougher), the upscale vehicles (Audi A5,
Mercedes SLK), via the convertibles (Audi
A3) and the 4x4 family, Avis offers a wide
range of vehicles for all needs. More than
70 commercial vehicles, trucks and vans,
plates, picks-up, light vans are also available.
„„
BUDGET MARTINIQUE
Lamentin airport
Rond Point airport
LE LAMENTIN
&05 96 42 04 04
www.budget-martinique.com
reservation@budget-martinique.com
Open every day from 6.30am to 9.30pm.
The company Budget has been present in
Martinique for over 25 years. Three agencies
on the island: airport, Fort de France et Trois
Ilets. From Opel Corsa to Kia Sorento via
convertible Audi A3... You will find your
happiness! All vehicles are air conditioned
and delivered on your holiday place.
„„
CAR GO
27 Route Chateauboeuf
FORT-DE-FRANCE
&05 96 03 44 00 /06 96 35 37 97
www.cargo-martinique.fr
contact@cargo-martinique.fr
CarGo is a brand established in all France; it
counts less than 500 agencies throughout the
hexagon. It has been represented in Martinique
for over than 20 years. The agency is at Fort
de France but the currency of the house rests
on 2 words: flexibility and proximity. Your
car is delivered in all the points of the island.
Nearly a hundred cars compose the park, from
a cheap private car to the mini bus (Renault
Trafic combi 9 places – Nissan primastar).
Their Web site is well made and ergonomic:
easy booking with secure payment. Add to that
a warm welcome and well tied up rates. An
good address for your car rental in Martinique.
„„
EUROPCAR MARTINIQUE
Airport Aimée Césaire and Agence
LE LAMENTIN
&05 96 42 42 42
www.europcar-martinique.com
contact@europcar-martinique.com
Open daily from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. on the site
of the airport and from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. at
the agency.
Vehicles of all categories and all brands (Van,
Berling, 4X4 as well as Twingo and Clio),
petrol or diesel, with GPS or car seat and air
conditioned are available. From three days of
hire, your vehicle will be delivered anywhere on
the island. Remember to book on the website
europcar-martinique.com
„„
GOODLY LOCATION
58 rue Schœlcher
SAINTE-LUCE
&05 96 62 25 36 /06 96 25 82 92
goodlylocation@sfrcaraibe.fr
Open every day from 8.30am to 12.30pm. The
afternoon by appointment. Closed on Sunday.
Car rental from E38 per day in high season.
All-risk insurance deductible from E698.
You will be welcomed by Nathalie’s
smile, especially if you are coming from the
Petit Futé. The park is made up of recent
vehicles from categories A, B And C. Free
Delivery at the airport as of 7 days rental.
„„
JUMBO CAR
Martinique Aimé Césaire Airport
LE LAMENTIN
&05 96 42 22 22 / N°Indigo
0820 220 230 (0,81 E/min)
www.jumbocar.com
resa.jumbo.mq@gbh.fr
Open every day from 7am to 10pm.
With Jumbo Car, make it easy choosing a
car rental in Martinique. Jumbocar is placed
among the best agencies of the island and
offers a wide choice of vehicles from rental
wherever you are: Le Lamentin, Le Diamant,
Le Marin, Les Trois Ilets, Sainte-Anne...
DRIVE
SAFELY
www.avis-antilles.fr
22
HOW TO GET THERE? - Getting around
„„
LUXIANE CAR
Lot. Dillon Stade Immeuble Avantage
11, rue des Arts et métiers
FORT-DE-FRANCE
&06 96 24 86 30
www.luxianecar.com
contact@luxianecar.com
Rates: Category C from 39E to 49E/day;
Category D (4X4 Dacia Duster from 56E to
65E/day; Caterogy E (BMW X3) 110E/day.
Degressif from 7 days.
A unique car rent al agency in
Martinique: prestige and personal service.
Luxiane Car is specialised in customized
rentals. Here your car is delivered regardless
of the place, day and even hour. Reception
is very personalized and service is of high
standing. Vehicles are of higher classes and
the smallest car offered is a Peugeot 206 HDI
with a range of 4X4s and BMWs. So here there
are no disposed price lists but everything is
based on the concept of service and quality.
You book ahead via the website, you are
received at the baggage exit of the airport
and the contract is already done with no
waste of time ... In case you need a special
decoration for big events (wedding, VIP party
...), a GPS ... the team is at your disposal. It
is a great address.
„„
R.CAR MARTINIQUE
17 Route de Chateauboeuf
FORT-DE-FRANCE
&06 96 94 20 81
www.location-voituremartinique.com
rcars.location@gmail.com
rates detailed on their website
R. CAR SARL, MARTINIQUE RENTAL CAR
AGENCY WITH GOOD PRICES
oeuf
teaub
e Cha rance
ute d
eF
17 , ro 00 Fort d
97 2
Tel. 06 96 94 20 81
www.location-voituremartinique.com
rcars.location@gmail.com
R.car sarl is unlimited mileage, simple
booking in three stages: research, selection,
booking. Your vehicle is put directly at your
disposal at LE LAMENTIN airport or at your
convenience wherever you are in Martinique!
„„
RENT’ILES
LE LAMENTIN
www.rentiles.fr/martinique.html
Rent cheaper with a local renter... Tempted?
Rentîles is the new network which gathers
offers of selected independent renters.
Alternative to the large international brands,
the renters network of Rentîles offers a warm
and personalized welcome. Don’t waste more
time seekng fo the best price, on Rentîles you
will find offers among the cheapest on the
market all the year round! The site is pleasant
and ergonomic; you can compare offers and
book online in less than 5 minutes directly to
the renter and without intermediary. With most
of the networks renters, only a E100 deposit
will be required to validate your booking, it
is practical when preparing your holidays
and having just paid your plane tickets.
Rentîles offers several points of withdrawal
in Martinique but also the delivery of the car
at the exit of the boat, at the airport or your
places of residence. It is advised to book in
advance in high season which guarantees
prices and availabilitys.
Booking on www.rentiles.fr/martinique.html
„„
SAINT-PIERRE LOCATIONS
Trois Ponts
SAINT-PIERRE
&05 96 78 35 58
& 06 96 26 35 76
www.saintpierrelocation.com
stpierre.location@wanadoo.fr
Open every day, except on Sunday, on
weekdays from 8am to 5pm and Saturday
from 8am to noon. Renault car rental. Rate
from 36 E to 75 E approximately.
This is a reliable car rental company that has
more than 200 vehicles in two agencies: one
at Saint-Pierre and the other at Lamentin
close to the airport. It is a family affair, and
the father owns a large Renault garage. The
cars are therefore well maintained. Rates are
displayed in the same way throughout the year
and during the low season months (May, June,
September, October, and November) with a
20% discount. Your reservation requests can
be made by email directly. Possible delivery
and free recovery is from the airport, port
and at home for more than a week’s rental.
© AGENCE MDES
GOURMET MARTNIIQUE
Gourmet
Martinique
Towards the North Caribbean
coast
„„
LE JOSEPHINE (RESTAURANT OF THE
IMPÉRATICE HOTEL)
Place de la Savane
15 rue de la Liberté
Restaurant de l’Impératrice Hôtel
FORT-DE-FRANCE
&05 96 63 06 82
www.limperatricehotel.fr
hotel.limperatrice@wanadoo.fr
Open every day except Sunday from 12.15pm
to 2.30pm and from 7.15pm to 9.30pm.Average
bill E30. Credit card, Cheque restaurant,
cheques, Amex.Wifi.
Real iconic place of Fort-de-France, the
hotel Imperatrice offers a quality table in its
restaurant Josephine. The menu could make
your head spin with its tasty creole cuisine.
The room is furnished with local precious
wood furniture, a magnificient wooden floor
and pastel colours on the walls; sober and
elegant. Guests can enjoy fine cuisine with a
creole accent while admiring the sight of the
savannah. Note excellent creole buffet every
Thursday midday. Reservations are strongly
recommended.
„„
THE AJOUPA
Bellemare Fund
CASE-PILOTE &05 96 61 60 34
oceane.jolly@wanadoo.fr
Follow the signs from the main road N2.
Restaurant open for dinner Tuesday to
Saturday from 7.30pm to 10.30pm. Open for
lunch Saturday and Sunday. Closed weekly
Sunday for dinner and Monday. Average bill à
la carte: E50. Menus: from E35 (freshness);
E45 Ajoupa; E56 tasting; E66 gourmet (with
foie gras). The ajoupa is an excellent gourmet
restaurant of the island, discreet, as the chef’s
image, Matthieu Jolly. Frequented by epicureans
of the island, it is in our opinion one of the
indisputable culinary values in Martinique. The
chef began his career in Britain in the famous
great establishments and he settled in
Martinique a few years ago. The site on the
seafront, somewhat lost between Schoelcher
and Case Pilote gives the setting an incredible
charm. In the evening you dine facing the sea
in a romantic atmosphere to perfection. With
regards to flavours, Matthieu controls alliances.
It is inventive, fastidious and likes to work the
noble products. Foie gras is undeniably one of
these favourites; Taste the pan-fried foie gras
with apple or even the medallions of veal, panfried prawns with rosemary... The sea is not
forgotten and the suggestions are according to
the return of fishing. Note for example excellent
with Tahitian fish with coconut milk. In short,
you have understood, Ajoupa is a safe bet, a
stopover almost unavoidable!
© AGENCE MDES
Fort de France and its
surroundings
„„
LE PATIO
Shopping centre of Patio de Cluny
SCHOELCHER
&05 96 73 35 61 /06 96 45 60 46
www.lepatiodecluny.com
Meal 20-40 E. Open Monday to Friday
12pm-3pm, 7pm-10.30pm. Daily special at
14,50E. Menu of the market for lunch at
E23 in full version or E18 with starter/main
course or main course/dessert.Gourmet menu
at E40; children’s menu at E10.
25
© ???
© AGENCE MDES
© AGENCE MDES
© AGENCE MDES
Towards the North Caribbean coast - GOURMET MARTINIQUE
Patio de Cluny is an address only frequented
by the residents of the island. The place
isn’t touristical and it is wonderful. You get
there by the shopping centre and it is located
upstairs. A lovely outdoor terrace and two
rooms very nicely furnished and decorated:
refined and intimate with colours blending light
colours, leather armchairs... The cuisine is
inventive and original. A crossed menu, dishes
for vegetarians, of sweets for more gournands.
An address to be discovered, full of charm
and flavours.
Towards the south Caribbean
coast
„„
CASE COCO
58 rue Schœlcher
SAINTE-LUCE
&05 96 62 32 26
sylvain.gardin@live.fr
Open every day from 12pm to 2pm and 7pm at
10pm. Closed on Monday all day and Tuesday
for lunch. Annual closing from June 15th
to July 1st and in September. Daily special,
attractive menu.
This restaurant is housed in a creole building
dating back to 1836. It was restored with
taste and designed in a shaded patio over-
looking the sea. Chez Case Coco, everyone is
welcome and you can enjoy yourself whatever
your budget. Sylvain is an experienced chef
who worked in michelin-starred houses in
Britain. Here, you will eat a creole cuisine with
metropolitan colours. Everything is made on
request and the products are fresh. As a
starter, let yourself be tempted by cod accras
or the fish Tartar with citrus fruit. We will also
remember the marinated prawns in spices of
the country, the vanilla coconut fish and for
meat lovers, the duck breast with pineapple
caramel... without forgetting fresh lobster
from the tank. Excellent table that continues
since 2006.
„„
LE GOLF
Golf of Trois Islets
TROIS-ÎLETS
&05 96 48 20 84
Open every day from 12: 00 am to 14: 30 pm
and 19: 00 pm to 21: 30 pm. Closed Sunday
and Monday evening. Bill between E 25 and
E 50. Free parking at the entrance.
Pleasant and relaxed setting, golfers meeting
point, but also for lovers of good food, Le
Golf restaurant is a place we recommend.
The room opens on a semi-glaze terrace. A
lounge corner facing the bar awaits you for
an aperitif. The chef likes to work with fresh
ingredients and mixes creole specialties and
traditional cuisine. The menu is articulated in
several types: L’eau a la bouche (Water in the
mouth), an excellent fish Tartar with ginger as
starter, then the Trésors de l’océan (Treasures
of the Ocean) and finally Magie de la terre
(Magic of the earth) that will seduce meat
lovers... As for the desserts, roasted figs with
crunchy walnuts and its guava sorbet have
nothing to envy softnesses of the great pastry
chefs. A must. Warm welcome insufflated by
the manager of the place and his team is very
much appreciated. A break always pleasant
in a Zen and green setting, with as an extra
for the soul, a stunning view on the bay of
Fort-de-France.
„„
PIGNON NOUVELLE VAGUE
Anse-à-l’ane
97229 Trois-ilets
TROIS-ÎLETS
&05 96 38 30 60
pignon@hotmail.com
Open every day from 12pm to 2.30pm and
from 7pm to 9.30pm. Sunday from 12.15pm
to 2.15pm. Closed Sunday for dinner and
Monday. Average bill E30.
GOURMET MARTINIQUE
„„
RESTAURANT 1643
Home of Anse
Anse Latouche
THE CARBET
&05 96 78 17 81
www.restaurant1643.com
At the exit of Carbet towards Saint-Pierre.
200 meters on the right after the tunnel.
Open for lunch and dinner, Tuesday to Saturday.
Accessible to the disabled guests. Average
bill E40.
The Restaurant 1643, in Carbet, small village
on the seafront, is one of the oldest houses
of the island of Martinique. In its large park
of secular trees, the owners welcome you in
a friendly and cheerful atmosphere, while in
the cuisine the chef delivers creative cuisine
with creole and local flavours. On a shaded
terrace, covered and ventilated, facing the
garden, the 1643 is ideal for a lunch or a
traditional dinner with family, friends, in private
conversation. Its colourful flowers, tablecloths
and table runners set the tone. In the evening,
the more intimate and romantic atmosphere
settles at your table. The setting invites to
relax, while a few stepsaway the softness of
the trade winds rocks a resting beach.
27
28
GOURMET MARTINIQUE - Towards the North Caribbean coast
Here is a restaurant that wears its name well.
The tables with turquoise-madras tablecloths
face the bay in this welcoming establishment.
Eddy, the young chef owner, already has
beautiful references despite his young age!
He was born in the catering (his family runs
the restaurant next door) and has worked
in Paris and London in nice houses in order
to perfect his techniques. Now he’s back in
the country to the delight of the epicureans!
The menu is resolutely dedicated towards the
sea. Specialities include fish and seafood, we
advise you to taste salad with lime lambis
(available according to the market), the
delight of the gable or ravioli with seafood
and shellfish cream. Good cocktails also. The
aperitif is offered on the menu starter/main
course. Le Pignon Nouvelle Vague also offers
take-away. A simple and authentic place,
unadorned. A small establishment that will
become big before long... word of smart!
„„
PURA VIDA
Gros Raisins – SAINTE-LUCE
&05 96 53 89 35 /06 96 27 82 83
www.puravidarestaurant.fr
Open for lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday
and closed on Monday. Services from 12pm
to 2pm and from 7pm to 10pm – Child space
– free Wifi – Digestive offered – Terrace.
A menu at E35 which is declined in Land
and Sea.
An exquisite restaurant installed on the
outskirts of the village, in the heart of Gros
Raisins area. The name of this restaurant
evokes an expression of the Costa Rica which
means «healthy life». This state of mind
reflects the atmosphere that the owners
wanted in their establishment: Zen and
healthy.
The decor is resolutely ethnic with objects
found during trips: wood is omnipresent with
a large deck that opens onto a terrace with
a lounge area for a drink.
As for the cuisine, the chef likes to combine
flavours and a mixed cuisine. Rigorous on
quality products and cooking, he offers a
menu that changes according to the market:
paved bream with Thai curry, half-cooked
tuna with sesame, sea urchins and seafood
blaff ... On the other side we loved the lamb
and its plantin bananas or half-cooked
Rossini tuna. The chocolate fondant or the
tiramisu are delicious... Charming welcome,
the cuisine in mouvment and the affordable
prices make Pura Vida an example of a «anticrisis» table. To discover with no more delay.
„„
PITAYA
Pointe du Bout
LES TROIS-ÎLETS & 05 96 66 61 54
www.restaurant-lepitaya.com
Located inside the hotel La Pagerie
POINTE DE BOUT
Open every evening from 7pm to 10pm.
The daily menu with choice between several starters, main course and desserts is
proposed at E29 per adult and E18 per
child. A la carte count E50. A planteur
drink offered on presentation of this guide.
Pitaya is a pleasant restaurant nestled in the
heart of La Pagerie hotel. The Chef, Robert
Vuattoux, after a career in several beautiful
establishments of the Cote-d’azur, offers
a mixed cuisine just like Martinique. The
carte is gastronomic.. Enjoy for example
as starter the sea bream ceviche, fresh
coriander, crunchy vegetable salsa or pig’s
trotters and its stuffing with creole banana
gratiné. As main dish, we recommend the
grilled rack of lamb three coasts, with honey
of the morne or the minute cooked dory fillet
in local virgin sauce, small tomatoes confit
with olive oil. Finish with a sweet gourmet
touch, the desserts are freshly prepared by
the pastry Chef. The setting is tropical in
a relaxed atmosphere. The service is very
friendly. The recipes compete in originality.
We appreciated this journey of savours.
„„
RESTAURANT LE PARADISIO
Anse-Michel beach
Cap-Chevalier
SAINTE-ANNE
&05 96 76 92 87
http: //www.le-paradisio.fr
contact@le-paradisio.fr
Opened the every day from 10 am to 5.30 pm.
Bill between E25 and E35. Closed Tuesday
from September to December except during
All Saints holidays. Better call for reservation.
The Paradisio remains an unmissable place in
the south. It is a restaurant along one of the
most beautiful beaches of the south, the
perfect place to make a quiet break-lunch,
especially if you have children: outdoor games
are at their disposal.
The setting and reception are pleasant. The
chef proposes a delicious mixed creole cuisine
(local products worked in the metropolitan
way). Try in particular their roasted tuna
steack, crusty Scallops, fish fillet of the day
sauce passion. The dishes are very hearty
and are nicely presented. You can also buy
take-away drinks. Private car park.
Towards the North Caribbean coast - GOURMET MARTINIQUE
29
bar-restaurant feet in the water
„„
TI’TOQUES
Odysée building
Marina
LE MARIN
&05 96 74 72 32
www.restaurant-titoques.fr
Open every day, except Monday, non-stop
service noon to midnight. Average bill E25.
Restaurant-brasserie, located at the corner of
the building (opposite the water sports club),
all in teak, as well as the bar, with undulated
forms like a wave. One unique large open
terrace. Their strong points: rapidity and
taste! You will discover the menu on a large
blackboard: among others, Scallop capellinis
and shrimp tails, the lambis crumble, the
fois-gras creme brulee or the grilled prime
rib. Also varied and appetizing daily specials,
nicely served in beautiful dishes. For the
fast lunches or dinners, salads, pizzas or
pancakes hold the star. The fresh fruit juices
have anything to envy the ice creams. All
the courses tasted on the spot can be taken
away (practical for our friendly boaters).
„„
VILLA CRÉOLE
18 rue des Anthuriums
Anse-Mitan 97229 Trois-ilets
TROIS-ÎLETS
&05 96 66 05 53
www.lavillacreole.biz
restaurantlavillacreole@gmail.com
Open Tuesday to Saturday from 12 pm to 2:
30 pm and from 7 pm to 10: 30 pm. Friday
and Saturday open until 11 pm. Average bill
E35 at E40. Restaurant Tickets and Holidays
voucher accepted.
Unmissable for 35 years, the villa creole is the
restaurant not to miss. Housed in an authentic
creole house with its terraces and patio, the
place is decidedly charming. The chef invites
you to taste excellent creole cuisine, based
on local products, and traditional vegetables.
Grilled lobster from the tank, carpaccio of
swordfish, steak of roasted lambis and its
French fries of sweet potatoes, bluefin tuna
tournedos and its sauce with shallot confit
in porto. You will also appreciate the range
of cocktails. Everything without counting
the highlight of your dinner: Guy, the owner,
accompanied by his guitar, animates your late
night with French or creole variety, rock, salsa,
zouk or the beguine. Smokers will enjoy the
lounge that is especially dedicated to them.
Parking next to the restaurant.
GOURMET MARTINIQUE
„„
TI PAYOT
Grande Anse
1 allée des Raisiniers
ANSES D’ARLET &05 96 69 07 38
Opened every day until 7pm. Catering facilities
from 11: 30 to 4.30pm. Dishes from E10.
Average bill: E20.
This is one of our favourite places on the island.
A bar – restaurant just next to the water, a
very friendly atmosphere, a splendid view of
the sea and just a few steps to go swimming
... Concerning the food, the chefs prepare
tasty dishes. The menu changes every day
and offers a mixture of Creole and French
cuisine. Fresh fish tartar is one of the great
specialties of the house. Fish, fritters plate,
smoked chicken, hearty salads, stewed conch
or chatrou, a daily special ... And after having
enjoyed your meal, you can opt for a nap on
a deckchair while sipping a fresh juice or
reading a book under the hut. Free wifi. Note
the Plongée Passion club and the Dolphin
Passion boat in the cave of Ti Payot. It is one
of the most serious and friendly on the island.
You can find them on www.facebook.com /
plongeepassion.tipayot.
30
GOURMET MARTINIQUE - Towards the North Caribbean coast
„„
THE ZANDOLI
Route du Fort d’alet
TROIS-ÎLETS
&05 96 59 88 00
www.la-suite-villa.com
Open every day from 7.30pm to 10pm. Bill
with wine around E60.
A most charming restaurant nestled in the
beautiful setting of the Villa Suite: bright,
minimalist decor and chic, designer furniture...
Idyllic setting facing Fort-de-France on the
outdoor terrace by the pool that has been
extended this year. As for the cuisine, the
arrival of the new chef Ivan Duchêne in
June 2014 insufflates a revival and a real
elevation. With a solid experience in the Fair
establishments, passed by Saint-James at
Bouliac, Emilie Restaurant in Jakarta to The
Last Supper in Luxembourg or Indonesia,
Ivan Duchêne embarked a new challenge
while settling in Martinique. He got familiar
with local products and develops a new
network of suppliers. It offers a menu with
crossed flavours: blend in perfectly with the
traditional values of french cuisine with Asian
and even caribbean touches... The starters
compete in originality: ceviche of marlin,
Bloody Mary flan, sea-urchin with peppers;
the excellent tuna snacké satay sauce, or
grilled snapper..
The Master pastry chef meanwhile will amaze
you with the most recommended lemon tart
(we still dream about it..). The lounge bar is
an invitation to travel: cocktails with colours
with original starters. People come here for
a drink with friends, lovers or to meet artists
who come to share the time of an exhibition
their passion with Gilles, sparkling owner of
the place. An exceptional place not to miss
during your stay in Martinique.
„„
ZANZIBAR
11, boulevard Allègre
Seafront
LE MARIN
&05 96 74 08 46
www.restaurantzanzibar.com
zanzibar972@orange.fr
Open every day from 12pm to 3pm and from
7pm to 10pm and 10.30pm weekends.
This restaurant with a crossed charm abounds
in refined dishes prepared with fresh quality
ingredients. There is no miraculous formula,
know-how and the love of work is enough. As
for the decoration, it is cosy and comfortable in
which it is pleasant to settle for a cocktail,
lunch or diner.
The Atlantic coast
„„
BELÉM
Domaine de La Prairie
The cap Est Lagoon Resort & Spa
FRANÇOIS &05 96 54 80 80
Open only for dinner 7 days a week day.
By reservation preferably. Annual closing in
September. Average bill E80. Full menu at
E75.
Belém is undoubtedly one of the jewels of
gastronomy of the island. From the room
with constant tones and clean lines, the view
plunges towards the sea by overlooking the
Cap Est Lagoon. Among the dishes, a crusted
tamarin monkfish tail and celery mousseline
with sage and butter of citrus, saddle of stuffed
rabbit with basil butter and pastilla. The trolley
pastries puts an end to this culinary experience, by far the most refined on the island.
Among the wines, a most sensational cellar,
model by its avant-garde architecture and its
collection of grand crus, right in the centre of
the dining room are worth a stop.
„„
LA TABLE DE MAMY NOUNOU
Hotel la Caravelle
Route du Château-Dubuc
Anse l’Etang (at the edge of D2)
TARTANE &05 96 58 07 32
www.hotel-la-caravelle-martinique.com
hotelcaravelle@wanadoo.fr
Open every day from 12pm to 2pm and from
7pm to 9pm, except Tuesday. Annual closing
in June and September. Average bill 30-40 E.
La Table de Mamy Nounou is the restaurant
of La Caravelle hotel. The charming owners
welcome you in a beautiful fully renovated
setting. At lunchtime, you can enjoy your
meal under the hut of the ventilated, panoramic
and quiet terrace facing the Atlantic. The
cuisine is inventive, refined and inspired by
the treasures of the country. In the evening,
you can have dinner on the veranda or in the
dining room, in an original setting, individually
decorated with antique objects of the world.
Hosted in the lounge, then invited to table, you
will enjoy a cuisine where French flavours are
combined to local products (terrine lambis,
emulsion of sea urchins, saddle of bream with
hibiscus juice, Grenadian of piglet and stewed
pineapple with ginger... ), without forgetting the homemade desserts (the infusion
of pineapple caramel with spices and its
sorbets, the iced soufflé with the shrubb...).
It is definitely a place blessed by the gods. An
address to be consumed without... moderation.
31
The Atlantic coast - GOURMET MARTINIQUE
one of the pillars of the traditional creole
cuisine. After dinner, enjoy the opportunity
to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that
only towns that have kept their rural soul can
offer! Quite an experience in the heart of a
lush nature, the refreshing rivers and black
sandy beaches that offer this city of the end
of the island, Grand-Rivière!
© AGENCE MDES
„„
TANTE ARLETTE
3, rue de Lucy de Fossarieu
GRAND-RIVIÈRE &05 96 55 75 75
contact@tantearlette.com
Open From tuesday to Sunday from 12: 30 am
to 3 pm closed On mondays. Lunch formulas
from E 16 to E 30.Credit card, Amex and
lunch and holidays cheques (ANCV) accepted,
no cheques.
Subtily revisit traditional cuisine is a real
know-how challenge! The table of Aunt
Arlette won this challenge and will delight
your tastebuds with acras of titiris (very small
fish of west indian water found at the mouth
of the small shallow rivers, specialities of
grand River), and its menu resolutely orientated towards seafood! The specialty of the
establishment: «the pot of the fisherman»
bears an evocative name. Exquisite blend of
crayfish, lobsters, crabs and fish, this «pot»
is a «culinary dive! « in the aquatic diversity
that Grand Riviere offers: between sea and
river. On Sunday, it is to the sound of mazurka,
biguine and other local sounds that lunch is
served. Family restaurant, Tante Arlette, are
GOURMET MARTINIQUE
„„
PLEIN SOLEIL TABLE D’HÔTE
Thalémont District, Pointe Thalémont
(on the road between Le François and Le
Robert) – FRANÇOIS
&05 96 38 07 77
www.hotelpleinsoleil.fr
Open every night of the week except Sunday
and friday, Saturday and Sunday afternoon.
Formula table d’hôtes is offered with a full
menu excluding drinks 45 E, upon reservation
24: 00 in advance, at the Plein Soleil residence.
Service from 19: 30 am to 21: 30 pm.
If you wish to make a stop far from crowds,
think of reserving a table in Plein Soleil. It
is a haven which only the experts find... so
much the site is hidden at the end of a road.
Decoration marvelously simple, combining
the tonalities of white and light beige. Pools
gorged with fish (carps) insufflate freshness.
Opposite the sea, on a large terrace ventilated by the trade winds, your table set, you
will be welcomed like friends.. Two menus
with thousands unceasingly renewed flavours
will be proposed to you with a choice between
fish or meat. For a few years this famous table
has not ceased progressing in quality. The
chef Nathanaël Ducteil cultivates a remarkable
creativity and combines the flavours crossed
with the fresh local products. An intimate
address, impossible to circumvent but hush...
don’t tell anybody... and why not?
DISCOVERY
Fort de France ‘s
Carnival
© VINCENT FORMICA
Martinique in
25 key words
Abolition
On April 27th, 1848, Victor Schœlcher, then
under-state secretary to the Marine and the
Colonies of the Second Republic, signed the
edict abolishing slavery. The official declaration had not yet arrived on the Martinique
island, that the slaves of Martinique on May
22nd revolted and obtained the abolition of
slavery. May 22nd is one of the most celebrated
days in Martinique.
Caribbean arch
Just observe the shape of the west indies archipelago to understand this name: a harmonious
natural curve drawn by the islands in a dotted
line, from Granada toSaint-Martin, two ends
of a regular arch. Bordered by the Atlantic
Ocean in the east and the Caribbean Sea to the
west, the antilles arch stretches over a length
of approximately 1 500 km and has a hundred
islands.
Rains or “showers”
From August, the season is strongly wet with
a regular level of rainfall: it rains often by small
or large showers. But the temperature is soft
and the constant noise of rain on the sheet roofs
becomes a throbbing but attractive leitmotiv.
Carnival
This is undoubtedly the most popular festival of
the year. It starts on the Friday after Epiphany
and ends on Ash Wednesday, a specificity of
Martinique. The weeks before the carnival, are
held the elections of the kings and queens of
the carnival in the cities of Martinique, some
colleges, etc. Every sunday, there are parades
groups on foot and vidés (parade in the streets
with rhythms of carnival to the sound of sound
systems on tanks or groups on foot). Days and
nights succeed in an frenzy and joyfull atmosphere. All Martinique is in jubilation during this
period of the year.
Hut in gaulettes
At the Native times, Arawak indians lived in
small huts installed on the waterfront. Despite
the urbanisation of the island, Martinique saved
the essential features of this type of homes
with its creole huts. In the dry countryside of
the South, there are still some of these huts
«in gaulettes», made with woven branches of
Ti’ baume and sometimes covered with cob.
Cemeteries
The West indies have preserved some European
traditions, including the funeral rites, of course
adapted to the local culture and thereforehave
changed with time. The cemeteries are a perfect
example. They do not form a gloomy space
apart. On the contrary, they are inseparable
places of life for the West-Indians, very worried
by death and Hereafter. They are real jewels,
both for the chosen places and for their great
architecture. You will therefore be interested
by these beautiful and mysterious monuments,
especially at All Saints.
Cockfights
This ancestral tournament arised in the
splendour of the Indian palaces. Like the gladiators, Gallus enters his turn in the arena. After
having followed an itinerary of thousands of
years through the continents and societies, it
finally arrived on the martiniquais coasts. Some
say the Iberian conquerors are the instigators of
the cock fights in the West at the xve century.
Others suppose that Martinique and Guadeloupe
inherited them from the French. Most chatty
say that the first discoverers, Duplessis, or the
Dutch have nothing to do with this business.
The english, however, who even practiced it in
their schools, would have introduced them on
the island during the xviie. So who bets?
Dance
Bèlè, beguine, kalenda, mazurka, waltz... come
to the zouk via the reggea, the ragga or the
dansehall. The dance is an important element of
the culture in Martinique. Outside the inevitable
outings in nightclubs, you don’t lack occasions
to go dancing in Martinique: dancing lunches,
banquets, roof-bar evenings, garden partys or
lunch/midnight. Moreover, there are lots of associations and groups that teach as much contemporary dances as the traditional dance on the
savannah of Fort de France sundays at the
end of the day.
MARTINIQUE IN 25 KEY WORDS
Mourning
Beyond the seas, on the other side, All Saints
returns with the cold and starts the winter, while
at thousands of kilometres, in the softness of
the alizé winds, November 2nd marks one of
the most anticipated days of the calendar.
Because in the Caribbean, unlike in most French
departments, the All saints Day is celebrated
in a large song of joy... All this to say that this
cult holds a considerable place in the life of the
Inhabitants Of Martinique, especially that the
beliefs, traditionally, are different and numerous.
Although declining, note, in comparison with
the metropolis, the importance of this particular moments, illustrated, for example, by
the existence of specialty shops for mourning
clothes.
She-devil
Crayfish
On the menu of the restaurants, these charming
freshwater small beasts share the limelight
with lobster. They are dishes of choice for the
caribbean cuisine. Lobster are called z’ habitants
in Martinique and ouassous in Guadeloupe. The
term of crayfish is however unsuitable, as all
comparable ouassous they belong to the shrimp
family: the ouassous largest and most searched,
which can reach twenty inch and weigh more
than a pound. The request is such that they are
now breeded, but the wild ouassous remain the
best for connoisseurs. Among the other «false»
lobster, two families: the «small» as the «red
tail», the «chabine» and the «grand bras»; then,
especially in the mountain streams: «the caca
d’or»», the «grosse patte» and the «guimbois».
Only the ouassous et, to a lesser extent, the
grand bras, are widely consumed.
White sandbars
Sandy seabed (everything is in the name) and
white, with very little depth. There are some
along the coast between Le Robert and SainteAnne (Cap-Chevalier) via the legendary bathtub
in which the Empress Josephine loved so much
to refresh herself.
Gum trees
It is from the gum tree, gommier, name of
«bwa fouyé» (creusé, taillé), carved in the tree
trunks that the yawl is inspired from. «Rent the
eternal», «rose», «the lethal gun», «doudou», or
«l chapé» are as many names carefully painted
on its side, which poetically speak of god,
of the love of a chabine, or rebellion. It is on
board of these Caribbean frail boats that «Brown
Negros» (escaping slaves) braved the wrath of
the sea in the 19th century. The history was
repeated at the time of admiral Robert, when
the dissidents, condemned without trial, faced
the rough canals of Dominica to join the forces
of Free France in 1940.
Creole houses
At the origin, dwellings of the settlers: they
gathered a vast residence with multiple assignments. By extension, the term designates the
owner of a plantation of sugar cane and tobacco
fields. It is therefore composed by the manor
often perched above the outbuildings, accommodation of the servants, cuisine, buildings of
the administration of the estate, shops to store
luggage, workshops, or manufacturing sheds,
from the sadly famous negro huts where the
slaves piled up.
The creole home is a model in the arrangement,
light and ventilation as in the conservation of
freshness. Wood used are mahogany or the
coubaril.
Games
Domino is a very popular game in the
Antilles. There is no precise opportunity, every
free moment is favourable: the weekend or in
holiday period, on the beach after the lunch, at
the time of the visit of some comrades, installed
around a small table under the well ventilated
veranda and with, within reach, refreshments.
The men are devoted to this game with crash.
The plastic or wooden pieces are cut down with
force, «to strike» the adversary. And finally it
is the «belle» which gives the right to aperitf.
Lobster
Once the dish of the poor – times have changed this seafood with long branches is king
in Martinique. It is eaten with all sauces. Its
fishing is prohibited between 1er January and
on March 31st, period of reproduction, and its
size should not be lower than 22 inch (14 cm
for the Brazilian).
DISCOVERY
The she-devil or guiabless is a supernatural
character with the appearance of a beautiful
woman with goats feet. Endemic of Martinique,
it attracts men and mislays them. The she-devil
symbolised the white lady (woman or daughter
of Master) who took pleasure charming the
most handsome black slaves on the plantations.
These slaves were then severely punished by
the Master «to have been hit» by these thirsty
women of pleasure. At the Carnival, the she-devil
is a transvestite in black and white who cries her
king on Ash Wednesday.
35
36
MARTINIQUE IN 25 KEY WORDS
Markets
Rasta
They generally start early every morning and
each town has one. Often of small, simple and
folk, markets with fruits and vegetables are
located in the city centre. High place of urban
sociability, the spice market is the place where
the social categories mingle without taboos.
They comment the facts of the day around one
kilo of sweet potatoes or a beautiful bundle of
carrots. The tu is obligatory and the creole is
highly recommended and each match the right
to bargain in a friendly atmosphere that dates
back from the last century.
The rastafari movement was born in Jamaica
and was widespread in the Caribbean, thanks
to the success of the reggae music. Assimilated
by certain to a religion, the word philosophy of
life would be better to define it. A way of seeing
the world and its creation. The «believers»
of this movement are often called Rasta. We
recommend not to use this word because
although correct enough, it is denounced by the
rastafaris which are against the categorization
of folks and claim the unification of the people.
Matoutou Crab
Whether it is «dry» or served with a glass of
water, the «ti-punch» makes you wonder as
for its name. Some say that the «punch» comes
from the Hindu word for five, in accordance
that this drink is made of the same amount
of ingrédients.
Others say it means, as implied in the universal
trade dictionary of Jacques Savary des
Brûlons (1757-1716), a spike that penetrates.
However, more probably, the word would
have occurred at sea and was inspired by the
punchons (barrels used for the conditioning of
tafia), word itself derived from the old French
«ponçons, ponchons poinçons...
Several crab species live in Martinique. You will
find them in the rivers, on the beaches, in the
rocks, the mangrove or inland. There are the
touloulous, the sé my fault, the mantous, the
mall zorey, the zagayas which makes delicious
dishes: the crab matoutou.
Tradition obliges, to celebrate Easter, the martiniquais meet with family and friends, on the
beach or at home, to enjoy Crab’ Matoutou. First
they fish a sea crab, then it is brushed to clean
it. One withdraws his paws and it slices his body
in two. Finally it is cooked with shallots, garlic,
parsley, chives, oil, rice, vegetables, pepper,
lemon and curry and is a delight until nightfall.
Morne
This term designates a hill, a hillock which
can be at diverse altitude, from forty to several
hundred metres. Given the size of the islands, the
ascension of a morne goes along with magnificent views on the Caribbean coast, or Atlantic.
Negritude
Literary and political current born during the
Inter-war Period, the Negritude contains a circle
of french black writers, including Aimé Césaire,
Léon-Gontran Damas, René Depestre or Léopold
Sédar Senghor among others. Related to the
anticolonialism, it will later influence the relatives
of Black Nationalism and will be extended far
beyond French-speaking areas.
Night
Night falls quickly in the West indies, between
18: 00 and 18: 30. The nightlife which was
rather limited up to now tends to develop in cities
or on the sea side. However, during holidays,
the West-Indians enjoy organising live partys,
with the help of DJ or musicians. The clubs
offer a mix of spicy rhythms, with a good dose
of modernity.
Rum
Skiffs: wood raised on the sea
The tour of the round skiffs of Martinique offers
an unique show in the world, a competition of
colourful boats sailing on the big blue. Real
national sport or trade issue, these «raised
wood» stands against wind and tides, is more
than a popular business, an osmosis between
man and the sea.
The competition starts in great secret on the
construction site. Leaned onto the stem of
the boat, the axe, inseparable tool of the local
marine carpenter, rests. In the workshop, all
exudes the forest of Martinique, bamboo of
the yard, the angelica, the pear tree peyi for
the frame. It takes, for this sea craftsman, all
the know-how inherited from the ancients to
create, in a few tides, a hull with pure lines
with a large square aerofoil, without «ballast»
or «sealed skittle». The yole, of Norwegian
«jol» (boat) – word proven in the language of
Molière by 1713 -, is above all linked to the
storms of the past.
It is in this wind of freedom, at the gates of
the liberation, that a carpenter from François,
hade a dream of a new generation boat. A
boat redesigned, modernised, with a narrow
hull (10.80 m for around 700 kilos), slender,
MARTINIQUE IN 25 KEY WORDS
37
Little lexicon
light, with low draught, and one or two sails in
addition for extra propulsion. More handy and
faster, the round yole becomes, from Large
River to Sainte-Anne or François du Vauclin,
the favourite boat of sailors. Consequently, it
causes real challenges launched by fishermen
to be the first to drop on the dock the fruits of
their hard labour. From wild rides to organised
regattas, the yole is then a real success and
became the most mediatized tour of the year.
First limited to a few villages during the patronal
festivities, the skiff competitions, in a few years,
also became the business of the coastal towns.
All sails outside in new nylon, la yole promotes
itself. In the race against the trade winds, the
boat, equipped by sponsors, becomes the
national sport of the Inhabitants Of Martinique.
Each boat – which can cost up to E18 000 is
now a matter of a great care. Constantly
upgraded to enhance its performances, as with
any competition vehicle, the yole is revamped
each season. A great opportunity to go fishing to
finance this colourful, emblematic and touristical
sport which is nowadays, inseparable from
beautiful Martinique.
Zouk
Zouk is a musical style created at the beginning
of the 80’s. It was made famous by the Kassav
band with its hits Zouk la sé sèl médikaman
nou ni, Siyé Bwa, etc. This new style mixes
carnival rhythms, jazz, biguine, Calypso
with new instruments. Then you can hear
different types of zouk: the zouk concrete,
the zouk love, the zouk metal. Today the word
zouk indicates especially music, dance or the
festival place; more than a «drug», it is a real
remedy against moroseness.
DISCOVERY
w„Anoli: small green harmless lizard widespread in the Antilles. `
w„Ajoupa: arawack shelter made of branches
w„Acra: Donut made with vegetables or fish served for aperitif
w„Alizé: east winds which offers to the country mild and humid climate.
w„Bacoua: large woven straw hat, with conical cap and high boards, specific to the
caribbean fishermen.
w„Béké: White Creole descending from families of France who settled in the Caribbean
in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.
w„Koko nèg’: clay pot that fears shock.
w„Kouï: half of a calabash; was used as a dish, container...
w„Lélé or baton-lélé: whisk made with small branches of tree with three or several fingers.
w„Makrélage: the fact of dealing with others business.
w„Palaviré: slap.
w„Pomme-cannelle: little fruit of the anonacées family very flavoured with white flesh
whose skin is formed with many lobes.
w„Rara: rattle.
w„Sec: small glass of white rum, without anything else.
w„Sillac or siyak: traditional musical instrument composed of a ribbed bamboo rubbed
with a baguette.
w„Sinobol: crushed ice cream with syrup – word derived from English «snow ball».
w„Sirop de batterie: cooked and concentrated cane syrup.
w„Tibwa (or ti-bois): traditional musical instrument composed of two wooden baguettes
that strikes a piece of bamboo or a drum.
w„Ti-moun’, Ti-manmaille: children.
w„Tim-tim: creole riddle.
w„Tombé-levé: name given to the taxis in Martinique.
w„Tré (or tray): trunk in the shape of a trough used by commercials to transport their
products on the head.
w„Vidé: more or less disordered crowd procession, during the carnival.
Overview
of Martinique
The Antilles are an archipelago with lots of
islands, large in the north, small in the south,
facing Central America. They are bathed
by the Atlantic Ocean in the east and the
Caribbean Sea to the west. About 7,000 km
separate the Antilles from Europe, or around
eight hours flight. However, they are close
to North America (Florida), Central America
(Mexico), and South America (Venezuela).
Located in the Northern hemisphere, except
some islands like the Bahamas, they are
stretched south of the tropic of Cancer over
a length of 1,500 km, between the 10th and
the 23rd degree of latitude. Their total area
is of 225,000 km ², a little less than half of
France. In the north, Greater Antilles: Cuba,
Haiti, Jamaica, Porto-Rico. In the south,
Petites Antilles, a string of islands and
islets which form an arc. It is, from north
to south: Virgin Islands, Anguilla, SaintMartin, Saint-Barthélemy, Saint-Christophe,
Antigua, Montserrat, Guadeloupe, Dominica,
Martinique, Sainte-Lucie, Saint-Vincent,
Barbados, Granada, Trinidad and Tobago.
Martinique and Guadeloupe occupy, among
Petites Antilles, central location. 250 km
separate them. The English island of Dominica
is a pretty link between the two French islands.
GEOGRAPHY
Martinique covers an area of 1,128 km², that
is to say two-thirds of Guadeloupe, 80 km
long and 30 km wide. It stands out from the
other french departments by its smallness
and high density of its population, approximately three times more important than
that of the metropolis. However, this density
is much lower in the North, the demographic
poles being harvested in the South, with
Fort-de-France, the capital, and the coast
resorts. The «Morne» (small hills), the Carbet
mountains and mount pelée, highest point in
the north (1 397 m), give relief to the island
that can be cut into three regions:
Natural disasters…
Martinique is a particularly exposed island with natural risks: flood, landslides, swell,
cyclone, earthquake...
w„The cyclone risk. The cyclone period most favourable is between July and November.
According to his intensity, we talk about tropical winds depression (lower than 63 km/h),
a tropical storm (winds between 63 and 117 km/h) or a hurricane (winds exceeding
117 km/h). A hurricane class 4 (like David, Hugo or Shine) is accompanied by strong
winds and causes major damage.
w„The seismic risk. Martinique is located in the arch of the Petites Antilles which results
from the subduction to the south-west of the American plates under the Caribbean plateau
at the speed of about 2 cm/year. Result, the ground trembles more or less extremely
in the region. If they are found near the coast or in the sea, the earthquake can start
tsunamis. On the land, they cause, fall of blocks landslides or liquefaction of the floors.
However, do not panic... The arch is high under surveillance and the last major earthquake
in Fort-de-France dates back to January 11th, 1839 (magnitude of 7.5).
w„The volcanic risk. Located north of Martinique, Mount pelée is an active volcano
whose eruptions are rare and violent. The last eruption dates back to the 1970s 19291932 with a peak of activity on October 18th 1929. The eruption of which everyone
speaks on the island is that of 1902 that led to the destruction of Saint-Pierre and the
death of 30,000 people.
Climate - OVERVIEW OF MARTINIQUE
w„North, with tropical vegetation, a
spectacular nature (gorges, ravines), and the
mountainous group with the Carbet mountains
and Mount Pelee, which offer superb walks to
hikers in the large spaces of the regional park,
between lush forests and chirping rivers.
w„The Center, the plain of Lamentin, the
two cities of Fort-de-France (administrative
centre) and Le Lamentin (airport) and more
than a third of the population.
39
w„The South, with its bays and coves
where are nestled the famous beaches, the
mangroves and the mountain of Vauclin,
an ancient volcano. This south, not very
mountainous, has the most popular resorts
of the island: les Trois-ilets, les Anses-d’arlet
and Le Diamant to the west, Sainte-Anne,
Sainte-Luce and Marin in the east.
Note that Martinique includes 48 islets which
are real natural observatories of fauna and
flora.
CLIMATE
can leave the sweater or the sweat shirt in
bags, they must not reappear before the end
of your stay. The average temperature is
25 °C over the twelve months punctuated by
two seasons: called «dry season Lent» (the
end of November to mid-June), a warmer
and more humid second called «wintering»
(from June to December). Around the months
corresponding to our autumn (at the end
of October, November, at the beginning of
December), the Caribbean is humid season,
very humid, and the level of rainfall very high,
but regular: it rains very often, and the noise of
the rain on the sheet roofs can quickly become
throbbing. June and October are the months
of transition. The rain can cause damage, but
nevertheless nothing to do with hurricanes.
w„Plain, in the South of Martinique enjoys
temperatures higher and tempered by trade
winds, as well as low pluviometry.
Hurricanes
By its geographical location, Martinique is
exposed to hurricanes. Hurricanes are formed
above the warm waters of the tropical seas
and are characterised by their power: tropical
depression, tropical storm or hurricane. This
last word, appeared in 1986, is a resumption
of American word, hurricane, which comes
himself from the language of the Caribbean
Indians who called Hurracan the god who, for
them, was responsible for misfortunes and
the climatic catastrophes.
Anyway, hurricanes prevail every year, without
exception. And the hurricane season lasts from
June to November. It is estimated that the
French antilles are touched on average every
ten years. Note that the cyclone phenomenon
has a rather unusual feature: originally, it is
a simple depression which is born off Africa
before moving towards the coast from the
DISCOVERY
27 °C in average, with tips at 32 °C and
rarely less than 20° C: here is the daily life
of Martinique. However, sometimes between
mid-December and the beginning of January
the temperature passes, at night, below 20 °C.
We then talk about it in the news. The wind
coming from the east, the trade winds, contribute to the temperate the tropical heat. From
20 °C to 24 °C for a stormy sea on the Atlantic
coast, and a more humid climate, around
25 °C, with a calm sea on the Caribbean
coast. However, throughout the year, the air
is very humid which enables the growth of
very special species. Don’t forget that in the
Tropics, the sun rises early (between 5: 00 and
6: 00) and goes down early also (between 17:
30 and 18: 30).
The heights of the Petites Antilles (including
Martinique) is characterised by two distinct
climates.
w„From June to December: during the rainy
season, or hivernage, the trade winds (winds
of the North-East and East) are the cause of
regular rains interspersed with breaks. In
August and in September, a little eagerness
of hurricanes can be worth a few days of
reclusion in your hotel room. The peak of
rainfall is reached in August.
w„From the end of November to mid-June:
during the dry season, or Lent, the trade winds
(winds of the north and east) bring short rain,
the driest month being March. This season is
where the tourist population increases very
clearly and where hotels are often full.
w„In the heights of northern Martinique
(very hilly region): in this region, the
temperatures are lower and more substantial
rains, which explains the lush vegetation.
Did you bring your winter clothings? On the
plane, guests and captain warned you: you
40
OVERVIEW OF MARTINIQUE - Climate
United States. It must be combined with other
criteria to be described as cyclone, such as the
presence of winds in altidude (up to 15 km)
relatively homogeneous, high humidity and
sea where the temperature exceeds 26°C.
In addition it must be formed sufficiently far
from the equator. From Africa it then moves
to the American continent (west). It also
happens that this depression- cyclone does
not strike any region and outright rises towards
the north pole: it is the turn of the Northern
hemisphere and then returned to Europe in
storm...Contrary to preconceived idea, they
are not so much the winds, often violent,
who are to be feared, but the very heavy
rains, devastating. Fortunately progress of
technology helps considerably the authorities
and the population to help yourself to face
this phenomenon. The cyclone that struck
Martinique severely in August 2007 caused
according to the official results a death and
six casualties. It was the cyclone Dean. The
island had not seen such a cyclone for over
20 years. In November 2010, although less
violent, the cyclone Tomas, left in Martinique
35,000 homes without electricity and as many
damages on the vegetation.
ENVIRONMENT- ECOLOGY
With a swarming tropical forest of plant
and animal species, heights which climb up
to 1 300 m, a coastline divided between fine
sand and the abrupt cliffs, more than 80 bird
species and more than 300 species of fish,
that which, not wrongly, is called «the flower
island» presents a most varied but also a
most fragile environment. A delicate balance
which each year is put at evil not only by
the recurring cyclones, but especially by the
human action. Facing industrialisation and
urbanisation, the mangrove swamp and its
ecosystem already moved back of 30% in
ten years. Upsetting data that the Regional
management of the environment Martinique
(Diren) gets busy to fight each year more.
Policies in favour of environmental protection, sensitizing of the population as well
as the offer of sustainable development are
put forward.
NATIONAL PARKS
The regional natural park of Martinique is
split between the northwest and the South
with a side cut including Fort-de-France.
It incorporates the peninsula La Caravelle,
center east, which was, with Sainte-Anne,
the first emerged part of the island, 18 million
years ago. The park covers an area of 700 km2,
or more than two – thirds of the territory
of Martinique. It englobes diverse sites as
diverse as the tropical forest, the indented
coast in the Southeast of the Savannah of the
Petrifications and the pointe des Salines, but
also the resorts of Diamant and Sainte-Anne
or Mount pelée.
Ecotourism booming
Ecotourism has the wind in its sails in Martinique. The North of the island is a real
treasure that lovers of green tourism must discover. Hikes in the forest, accommodation
in cottages, lunches and dinners at tables of family restaurants... This is another way
to explore the flower island, far from mass tourism. To name just one example among
others: the Ekokay residence offers green stays, hiking and well-being in Fonds-SaintDenis. But it would be unfair to say that the South doesn’t also have a penchant for
ecotourism. Many activities and several places prove it. Kayak stroll in the mangrove,
stays in nature and on the waterfront with Domaine de Robinson de l’Anse Noire,
discovery of medicinal plants, La Savane des esclaves... For information on green
tourism, do not hesitate to go on the site of Tak Tak. This agency offers rural activities
of fifty entrepreneurs who have love to promote their island. A club of entrepreneurs
and network of towns for the development of solidarity tourism that works with putting
forward craft, cultural and environmental know-how.
41
Petit-Piton, Sainte-Lucia.
© TOM PEPEIRA – ICONOTEC
History
© VINCENT FORMICA
The history of Martinique being linked to that
of the region, it is important to know the lines
of the historical context of colonisation. We
know that the knowledge of the past helps
us understand the present.
The subject is all the more important as
the society that we know today is very young:
it really dates back to the end of the 19th
century, even in the early 1900s. It is, indeed,
during this period, about fifty years after the
abolition of slavery, that this society began to
be structured under its current form. A large
Memorial of Anse-Cafard.
number of Martiniquans are unaware of their
past or have an approximate knowledge of it.
This report, known by the local intellectuals,
is responsible for the metropolitan school
system, who did not know how to consider
the characteristics of the different elements
of the Republic. Thus, on May 10th, 2005,
during the Commemorative day of slavery,
the writer Maryse Condé, president of the
Committee for the memory of slavery (CPME),
could say: «But never, in my childhood, did
we talk to me about slavery! «
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