what lies beneath
Transcription
what lies beneath
WHAT LIES BENEATH GUANGZHOU’S PAST UNEARTHED QUARTER 4 2009 CLUBHOUSE HOMES AWAY FROM HOME MAGAZINE OF THE MARCO POLO CLUB QUARTER 4 2009 M E SSAG E FR O M T H E CLU B Faster travel, more options Katie Rowen, Manager The Marco Polo Club A t Cathay Pacific we continue to seek ways to make travel more convenient for our Marco Polo Club members. Silver or above members may present their membership card and passport at the enrolment offices in Hong Kong International Airport to sign up for speedy immigration when arriving or departing using the “Frequent Visitor e-Channels”. Please log-in to your account for further details. Another handy addition for members is the Cathay Pacific and Dragonair mobile applications for iPhones, BlackBerrys and PDAs using Windows Mobile, which you can download to access all mobile services from the convenience of your own mobile device. Travel options with the oneworld® alliance have expanded with the entry of Mexicana – Mexico and Central America’s leading airline. Mexicana joined oneworld 4 THE CLUB on 10 November, 2009 along with subsidiaries MexicanaClick and MexicanaLink, which join as affiliate members. The networks of these three airlines cover 67 destinations and 14 countries in Central, North and South America (including 37 points in Mexico) and Europe. And speaking of new destinations, on 25 October, 2009 Cathay Pacific launched flights to Jeddah, Saudi Arabia’s second major commercial city. The four-timesweekly service operates through Dubai. You may well have read press reports about the change in the Cathay Pacific shareholding. CITIC Pacific sold a 12.5% shareholding in Cathay Pacific to Air China and a 2% shareholding in Cathay Pacific to Swire Pacific. This means that Air China’s stake in Cathay Pacific will rise from 17.49% to 29.99%, while Swire Pacific’s stake in Cathay Pacific will increase from 39.97% to 41.97%. The move underlines the commitment of both Swire Pacific and Air China to Cathay Pacific and further strengthens the existing relationship between the two airlines. Separately, Cathay Pacific agreed to sell 12.45% of its shareholding in Hong Kong Aircraft Engineering Company Ltd. (HAECO) to Swire Pacific, raising more than HKD1.9 billion, which will help strengthen our balance sheet at a very challenging time for the business. Meanwhile, Cathay Pacific retains a 15% stake in HAECO, the main provider of our overhaul and maintenance services. We are delighted to announce that the readers of Business Traveller nominated Asia Miles as the “Best Frequent Flyer Programme” for the fifth consecutive year in the 2009 Business Traveller Asia-Pacific Travel Awards. Many thanks for all your support. E XPLO R E HONG KONG History hotel Rooms with a view: Hullett House The former Marine Police Headquarters in Tsim Sha Tsui has been transformed into Hullett House, the first hotel operated by the Aqua Restaurant Group. The hotel will have five restaurants and bars and the décor of each of the 10 rooms is themed to a different period from Hong Kong’s history. The 120-year-old building is part of the 1881 Heritage redevelopment. www.hulletthouse.com Hedge fun Festive table Deck the tables Interior designer Lucie McCullough will create a bespoke Christmas tree with unique decorations and will also provide specially designed Christmas table settings. www.luciemccullough.com 6 THE CLUB Part of the exterior of the Musée du Quai Branly in Paris is covered in a dense planting of ferns, creepers and mosses. The museum walls are vertical gardens devised by French botanist and landscape designer, Patrick Blanc. Blanc and the President-Director General of the Musée du Quai Branly will be in Hong Kong for the Business of Design Week, 30 November to 5 December, organised by the Hong Kong Design Centre. www.bodw.com Taipei Concert Hall vertical garden by Patrick Blanc Have a ball: The ruby ballroom at The Mira Hong Kong New faces After a USD65-million facelift that took years to complete, Hotel Miramar has become The Mira Hong Kong, shedding its dated 1980’s décor for a textural and sensual interior that definitely speaks the 21st century. One of the most notable new features is the ballroom designed by international celebrities’ party planner Colin Cowie, with chandeliers that resemble Chinese lanterns and a lot of mirrors for a dream-like result. Completing the package are versatile function rooms and 492 guestrooms, including 56 design-led suites. All the rooms are equipped with state-of-the-art facilities. www.themirahotel.com Photos. Starbucks: Jonathan Wong – ArgusPhoto. Widgeon: Arthus Morris – Visuals Unlimited/Getty Images Feathers fly in Hong Kong Winter and spring are great times for bird watching in Hong Kong, a prime bird-watching location. Twitchers from around the world come to Hong Kong, as do many bird species that use it as a stopover on migration routes. Since December 2008, four new bird species to Hong Kong – a Steppe Eagle, a Tundra Bean Goose, an American Wigeon (a type of duck) and the Great An American Widgeon prepares for landing Thick-knee – were recorded in the Mai Po Nature Reserve. Hong Kong has an energetic bird-watching community. The Hong Kong Bird Watching Society organises weekly free bird-watching tours in Hong Kong Park and Kowloon Park and recommends the best places to see birds in Hong Kong. www.hkbws.org.hk Furniture and funk In the short length of Duddle Street, between Queens Road Central and Icehouse Street, the latest in international design jostles against historical Hong Kong. In the last few years, it has become a precinct packed with top-end furniture and interior design shops. If all this contemporary hipness gets too much, head up the historic stone stairs with the heritage lamp posts, the last surviving working gas street lamps in Hong Kong. Both the stairs Retro Starbucks in Duddle Street and the lamps are declared monuments. Halfway up the steps is a Starbucks with retro bing sutt (‘50s coffee shop) décor by the G.O.D. team. THE CLUB 7 E XPLO R E The fast lane English caption xxxxxxx xxx xxxx xx xxxxxxxxxx xxxx Junk asset: take the traditional route Hover over tea after a helicopter flight (right) A different perspective on Hong Kong Been to the Peak? Caught a tram from Kennedy Town to Shau Kei Wan? Then it’s time to take in Hong Kong from some other perspectives and with a little more comfort. 8 THE CLUB A slow boat Power option Over the top Aqua Luna junk with its russet sails has become an icon on Hong Kong harbour. Trips include a tour of the Aberdeen Typhoon Shelter, Cheung Chau island, the Temple of the Sea at Joss House Bay, and Stanley Village and Market. www.aqualuna.com.hk Explore Victoria Harbour and take your own route and your own sweet time. Rent a very glamorous power boat complete with driver, insurance, ice and drinks. www.asiayachting.net A broad overview always helps in life. Take to the air in a helicopter flight over Hong Kong followed by afternoon tea, lunch or a spa treatment at The Peninsula hotel. www.peninsula.com/Hong_Kong/ en/Enticements/default.aspx E XPLO R E THE WORLD Lobby of klapsons The Boutique Hotel with the spherical reception capsule Glimpse a slice of history at Capital M View from the capital Capital M, Michelle Garnaut’s new restaurant in Beijing, overlooks Tiananmen Square with spectacular views of the Qianmen Gate and the entrance of the Forbidden City. This is Garnaut’s third restaurant in a historic location after M at the Fringe in Hong Kong and M on the Bund in Shanghai. The expansive Capital M has terraces right around the building, perfect for dining and viewing. www.m-restaurantgroup.com 10 THE CLUB Three of a kind When the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford University opened to the public in 1683 it was the world’s first public museum and the collection included only a few objects from China. When it re-opens in early November, three entire galleries will be devoted to Chinese works of art: China up to AD 800; later China; and a gallery for Chinese paintings. The building houses 39 new galleries along with an education and conservation centre and restaurant. It uses a new way of thinking about the collections to make displays that range from ancient to contemporary more accessible. www.ashmolean.org On show: A 6th-century greenware vase from China Open for business klapsons The Boutique Hotel opened in Singapore in October, with interiors designed by Milan company Sawaya & Moroni, also known for its furniture design. The company has created the klapsons coffee table for the hotel, which has a giant stainlesssteel sphere in the lobby as the reception desk. www.klapsons.com Poetic vision: John Keats in the Keats Museum Displays of affection One of England’s most famous Romantic poets, John Keats lived and worked in a Regency villa in Hamstead, London, from 1818 to 1820. This was an enormously productive time when he wrote Ode to a Nightingale and fell in love with Fanny Brawne, who lived in the semi-detached house next door. After his death aged 25, the houses were consolidated and eventually acquired for a Keats Museum that opened in 1925. Extensive renovations were recently completed and the rooms have been authentically redecorated, and new displays mounted. www.keatshouse.org.uk Photos. Oliver Sacks: Thos Robinson – Getty Images for World Science Festival. Keats: Peter Macdiarmid – Getty Images. Vase: The Ashmolean Museum Say hello to TED TED is someone you would probably like to know. He has plenty of smart ideas and lots of influential friends. TED is a nonprofit organisation devoted to Ideas Worth Spreading that began in 1984 as a conference with people from technology, entertainment and design (TED). It has since grown globally and its several forms include annual TED Conferences that attract some of the world’s leading thinkers. You can visit the award-winning TEDTalks free video site where some of the world’s most fascinating people talk about ideas. www.ted.com Author and neurologist Dr Oliver Sacks is on TED THE CLUB 11 E XPLO R E Smashing art in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia Objects of design Hit the wall Decadent dressing Real suite deal Vintage glamour is yours with the Dior Dressing Table at London’s Claridge’s hotel. Guests staying in the Linley Classic and Couture suites, which have Art Deco dressing tables, can order a cream silk dressing gown personalised with initials, highheeled marabou mule slippers and a cashmere eye mask. The dressing table is stocked with classic Christian Dior fragrances and a beauty kit of compact, powder and Dior ruby-red lipstick and nail varnish. Who could ask for anything more? Well, perhaps something from the Dressing Table Cocktail menu from the Fumoir Bar and some music from Josephine Baker and Fred Astaire. www.claridges.co.uk Jeddah is a new destination for Cathay Pacific. Visitors will be struck by the large number of modern sculptures and art works, a result of the focused civic effort during the oil boom of the late 1970s and 1980s to bring art to Jeddah’s public areas. Many of the sculptures are situated on roundabouts, making the city one of the largest open-air art galleries in the world. Standing tall Shanghai is preparing for a big year in 2010 with the World Expo opening in May. Get an overview of the city and its busy activity from the Shanghai World Financial Centre in Pudong. With 101 floors and at 492 metres, it is the tallest building in the city. Observation decks are on floors 94 and 97 as well as the Sky Walk on the 100th floor, which at 474 metres high offers breathtaking views of the Bund – and possibly a touch of vertigo. www.swfc-shanghai.com Achille Castiglioni’s preserved design studio 12 THE CLUB Walk on the wild side nearly half a kilometre high Photo. Cars: Andreas World – Panthermedia/OTHK. Shanghai: ICHIRO – The Image Bank/Getty Images. Kimino: BloomImage/ Getty Images. Castiglioni: Fabrizio Marchesi Milan, home to the world’s most influential furniture fair and centre of Italy’s fashion industry, has a rich design heritage. Among its many design-related attractions is the museum in the home of Achille Castiglioni, who designed some of the 20th century’s most recognisable furniture. Castiglioni’s lovingly preserved design studio is crammed with prototypes, moquettes and objects that inspired him. www.triennaledesignmuseum.it/ castiglioni.php Authentic beauties Antique kimonos are one of the great bargains in Japan. Many shops throughout Japan sell old men’s and women’s kimonos, obis and other accessories at reasonable prices. They make wonderful souvenirs and can be used to make cushions, cover chairs or as wall hangings. The Oriental Bazaar on Omotesando-dori, 5-9-13 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, +81 3 3400 3933 Gallery Kawano, Kimono and Textile of Antiques, has two shops: Flats Omotesando shop 102, 4-4-9 Jingumae Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, +81 3 3470 3305 Bake me, I’m yours The proven product in Paris Is this the best bread in Paris? Christophe Vasseur’s boulangerie Du Pain et Des Idées was voted best baker by gourmet guide Gault & Millau in 2008. Vasseur switched from a career in fashion to fashioning bread using traditional techniques and an obsession with quality. Time is one of the ingredients – he says it takes seven hours to make a baguette compared to the usual one hour taken by other bakeries. His atmospheric shop has been a bakery since 1889 and is decorated with antique equipment but some of his recipes have innovative contemporary twists. www.dupainetdesidees.com 15 Okinohata, Yanagawa-si, Fukuoka-ken, +81 944 73 0131 www.gallerykawano.com Antique kimonos and obis make great gifts W HAT ’ S O N WINTER EVENTS NOVEMBER DECEMBER 8 November25 January 2010 Bauhaus 1919-1933: Workshops for Modernity 5-13 December Hong Kong 2009 East Asian Games Museum of Modern Art, New York Major show on the influential design movement. www.moma.org 26-29 November European Tour: Omega Mission Hills World Cup Henrik Stenson in the 2008 Omega Mission Hills World Cup Mission Hills Golf Club, Shenzhen Top golf action. www.omegamission hillsworldcup.com Hong Kong The first international multi-sport event to be hosted by Hong Kong. www.2009eastasian games.hk 5 December5 April 2010 The Sixth Asia Pacific Triennial of Contemporary Art Queensland Art Gallery & Gallery of Modern Art, Brisbane More than 100 artists from 25 countries. http://qag.qld.gov.au/ exhibitions/apt 12 December4 January 2010 Hong Kong Brands and Products Expo Angel by Gonkar Gyatso, on display at the Sixth Asia Pacific Triennial of Contemporary Art 14 THE CLUB Victoria Park, Hong Kong Famous brands from Hong Kong and overseas companies. www.hkbpe.com.hk Unmask the romance of Venice 6-16 February 2010 Venice Carnival Venice Masked balls in grand palazzos, extravagant costumes, gondolas and concerts. This is one of the world’s most romantic events in one of the most romantic cities. www.carnivalofvenice.com 13 December Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Races Sha Tin, Hong Kong The world’s top jockeys, trainers and horses compete in the Turf World Championships. www.cxhkir.com Photos. Angel by Gonkar Gyatso: Courtesy of Queensland Art Gallery. Golf: Stuart Franklin/Getty Images. Venetian masks: Getty Images. Chinese New Year: ArgusPhoto/ Alamy. Skier: Agence Zoom/Getty Images. Rockefeller Centre: Stan Honda/AFP/Getty Images Hong Kong’s premier racing event A colourful night in Hong Kong at the Chinese New Year parade JANUARY 5-9 January 2010 Béjart Ballet Lausanne Palais Garnier, Paris Four ballets by Maurice Béjart to the classical music of Webern, Bartók and Boulez. www.operadeparis.fr 9-30 January 2010 Sydney Festival Sydney The city becomes both stage and party venue. www.sydneyfestival.org.au FEBRUARY 12-28 February 2010 010 XXI Olympic Winter Games Vancouver The slopes of Whistler are groomed for or the big Olympic pic snow show. ow. www.vancouver2010.com ver2010.com All downhill from fro here 14 February Cathay Pacific International Chinese New Year Night Nig Parade Hong Kong Grrr... welcome in the Year of the Tiger. www.discoverhongkong. www.discoverhongko com/chinesenewyear com/chinesenewyea All aglow at the Rockefeller Centre Ro CHRISTMAS & NEW YEAR EVENTS 27 November-3 January 2010: George Balanchine’s The Nutcracker New York City Ballet, llet, New York, www.nycballet.com 28 November-10 January 2010: Ice at the Palace Hampton Court Palace, London, www.hamptoncourticerink.com 2 December: Rockefeller Centre Tree Lighting New York, www.rockefellercenter.com 11 December-9 January 2010: The Nutcracker Paris Opera Ballet, www.operadeparis.fr 16 December-3 January 2010: The Nutcracker English National Ballet, www.ballet.org.uk 18-20 & 22-27 December: The Nutcracker Hong Kong Ballet, www.hkballet.com 19 December: Carols in the Domain Sydney, www.carolsinthedomain.com 30 & 31 December: Soundfest: Viennese New Year’s Gala Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra, Hong Kong, www.hkpo.com 31 December: New Year’s Eve Times Square, New York, www.timessquarenyc.org THE CLUB 15 CH O I CE A SCENT OF FASHION The season’s newest fragrances interpret the clean lines of a sharply cut suit to bring a modern sense of clarity to dressing’s final touch IDOLE d’ARMANI by Giorgio Armani* Beautifully sparkling, Giorgio Armani has dedicated this fragrance to the women who have inspired him. www.giorgioarmani.com Lola by Marc Jacobs* Floral, fruity and typically flirty, luscious scent Lola introduces a grown-up confidence to the Marc Jacobs fragrance suite. It will be complemented by a body range. http:// lolamarcjacobs.com STELLANUDE by Stella McCartney Moroccan rose and peony are the hallmark floral notes that thread through this light easy-to-wear fragrance. www.stellamccartney.com Grey Vetiver by Tom Ford Centred on vetiver – known as the oil of tranquillity – this fragrance is Ford’s aromatic equivalent of “the classic blue blazer or beautiful watch”. www.tomford.com 16 THE CLUB ‡ Parisienne by YSL*‡ With an ad campaign featuring model Kate Moss, the Eiffel Tower and Saint Laurent’s famous “Le Smoking” tuxedo for women, Parisienne promises all the love and life of the French capital. www.ysl-parisienne.com Eau Mega by Viktor & Rolf A play on the Greek letter Omega, the daring avantgarde design duo have delivered a surprisingly pretty fragrance. www.viktor-rolf.com A Scent by Issey Miyake Simply stylish, Japanese minimalism sits at the heart of this women’s fragrance. Spritz with confidence! www.ascentbyisseymiyake.com Zegna Colonia by Ermenegildo Zegna Drawing on the energy of Sicilian bergamot, this seductive fragrance captures the House of Zegna’s personal vision of “La Dolce Vita”. www.zegna.com L’eau Ambrée by Prada‡ Sensually modern, this new women’s fragrance brings the warm amber note right up to date with a welcome longlasting scent. www.prada.com/fragrances (*Available onboard Cathay Pacific: see Discover the Shop. ‡Available onboard Dragonair: see Emporium) If travelling on Cathay Pacific, you can pre-order duty-free items between 2 and 21 days before your flight and have them delivered to your seat. For details, please see www.cathaypacific.com/dutyfree THE CLUB 17 Brogue traders Lasts to last a lifetime at Foster & Son BESPOKE BY PH O EB E A . G R EEN WO O D Photo left: Copyright Wolf Media The price of bespoke shoes may seem exorbitant, but such craftsmanship and quality are luxuries thousands ensure they can afford ou can tell a lot about a man by his shoes. If those shoes are made by Foster & Son or G.J. Cleverley & Co., for example, the man is likely either to run the management company he’s walking towards or have a family name that means he won’t need to work much at all. If he’s American, he’ll probably be found striding through his Texan oil fields or New York’s Upper East Side. Foster & Son and G.J. Cleverley & Co. are of a rare breed of British bespoke shoemakers with a rarefied clientele. With few notable contemporaries, John Lobb among them, they are among the only shoemakers of their kind, crafting shoes by hand from the finest materials to the unique specifications and stylistic whims of their gentlemen clients. In an age when consumers race to keep up with the blistering pace of changing trends, bespoke shoes seem an anachronistic luxury. Modelling leather around the specific requirements of an individual’s foot, taking into account every collapsed arch, corn and callus, is a painstaking process that can take up to eight months and cost thousands of dollars. It is, however, also a booming trade. Foster & Son was established in London in 1840. Since 2006, the business has been run by Richard Edgecliffe-Johnson, formerly a director of private banking at Citibank International. For a man from the city, there’s not much Edgecliffe-Johnson doesn’t know about shoes. Sitting in the gentlemen’s-club surrounds of the Foster & Son shop on Jermyn Street, framed by wooden cases holding antique brogues and oversized leather backgammon boards, he describes the relationship between his customers and his shoes: “A regular customer will probably start with a lace-up pair, probably an Oxford, which he can wear either to work or a wedding. Then he’ll need casual shoes; shoes for the city; shoes for the country; evening shoes; ankle boots. “If he hunts, he’ll need long boots and he’ll probably own a lovely pair of slippers, maybe embroidered with his family crest or that of his club. People just fall in love with the feeling of wearing our shoes – they fit so beautifully.” A standard pair of bespoke shoes from Foster & Son costs GBP2,400 (about HKD29,800), including shoe trees. In this atmosphere of financial caution, surely there’s a limit to how many bespoke shoes a man may own? Edgecliffe-Johnson baulks at the idea: “Almost [all] of our customers will own at least 10 pairs of our shoes, maybe 20.” If these are the regular customers, what are the requirements of Foster & Son’s more exceptional clients? “There is one man who has a grey and burgundy Rolls Royce,” says Edgecliffe-Johnson. “We recently made him two pairs of shoes in the same shades of grey and burgundy, so his feet now match his car.” The shoe most definitely fits: calf semi-brogue from G.J. Cleverley & Co. THE CLUB 19 BESPOKE THE NINE STEPS OF SHOEMAKING Upstairs, downstairs in Old Bond Street 20 THE CLUB A short stroll up Piccadilly, past Fortnum & Mason, in the Dickensian headquarters of G.J. Cleverley & Co. on Old Bond Street, store manager Andrew Murphy tells similar stories. This 200-square-foot shop has shod the likes of Clark Gable, Winston Churchill and Lennox Lewis. As the global economies duck and dive, Cleverley has continued to produce its steady output of 500 bespoke shoes a year. No more, no less. The G.J. Cleverley workshop is perched above the store, up a tight spiral staircase that winds up to a third floor where the lasts of thousands of clients are stored. David Beckham – number C368 – has lasts scarred with leather patches, indicating countless bumps and breaks. Footballers’ feet are among the worst in the world, Murphy confides. Walking into the compact workshops at G.J. Cleverley and Foster & Son is stepping into a tableau of Victorian England. Infused with a rich smell of wood, wax polish and oak-bark tanned leather, the rooms are dusted in wood shavings from the lasts, sculpted here on well-worked wooden blocks. Leather is chosen from merchants with the utmost care. Foster & Son uses suppliers in England and France. Their alligator skins come from the Mississippi, crocodile skins from the Nile, snake and lizard skins from Africa. 1. The shoemaker traces an outline of the client’s foot onto paper as he stands and sits. He measures the length, width, instep and joints of both feet. Notes are made of prominent knuckles, bumps and irregularities. The customer selects the leather and style of his shoe. 2. The two-dimensional drawings of the customer’s feet are sculpted from hardwood into threedimensional models called lasts. 3. A paper pattern is cut around the lasts according to the style of shoe requested. The leather is then cut accordingly. 4. The leather and paper pattern are sent to the “closer”, who stitches together the elements of the upper shoe by hand. 5. The leather for the insole is moistened, nailed to the bottom of the last and left to dry, taking on the exact shape of the customer’s foot. 6. The last, along with the upper and inner sections of the shoe, are sent to the shoemaker, who sews together the parts. 7. The customer is asked to present for a fitting as no alterations can be made once the sole is attached. 8. Once the customer is entirely satisfied with the fit and style of his shoe, the sole is welted to the shoe. 9. The shoes are polished ready for collection. Holyrood, a ready-to-wear model from Foster & Son BESPOKE “Cows get stretch marks just like humans, which we don’t like,” says Murphy. “We check all our leathers carefully to make sure they are blemish free.” At G.J. Cleverley, five shoemakers produce every shoe sold. They are catering to 1,500 clients in the United States and double that number in Britain. Murphy explains: “It’s slowly, slowly here. The workmen can’t be rushed. It takes time to do things properly and they won’t be compromised. It can take two weeks to make a last. When you attach a wet leather sole to the last, it must be allowed to dry naturally.” A few strides back from the commercial throng on Old Bond Street, tucked discreetly on Clifford Street, is Lodger Footwear. There, Nathan Brown is pioneering a modern alternative to the bespoke tradition. He prefers the term “custom-made” when describing his shoes. Brown has applied technology and experience (acquired during years spent working at Adidas, Nike and Puma) to the traditional shoemaking process. He uses lasers to scan his client’s feet then matches their measurements to a digital library of millions of virtual lasts. Lodger shoes are all handmade according to the finest Italian and English traditions, but cost about GBP500 and are ready in a matter of weeks – sometimes days. After only a year in business and with clients ranging from “IT’S SLOWLY, SLOWLY. THE WORKMEN CAN’T BE RUSHED” A master craftsman shapes a last at G.J. Cleverley (above) politicians to pop stars, Lodger has clearly found a market. Brown thinks much of the appeal is that he offers a trendconscious market the same attention to detail and obsessive care over the customer that is perfected by his more established alternatives. This high calibre of service is missing from most high-end shoe brands, he laments. “There is a real sense WEBSITES Fast forward: custom-made alternative at Lodger (left) 22 THE CLUB www.gjcleverley.co.uk www.wsfoster.com www.lodgerfootwear.com of camaraderie in the bespoke business,” says Brown. “I have tremendous respect for Cleverley and Foster. I’m not trying to better what they do. I’m just saying, ‘Here’s a different spin on an amazing craft’.” Foster & Son speak warmly of Nathan Brown and Lodger, clearly not perceiving a threat. While waiting eight months for a pair of shoes may seem incongruous to the pace at which most of us live, Edgecliffe-Johnson believes that is precisely what his clients expect. “We really haven’t felt the recession. This whole year, none of my bespoke clients has once asked how much their shoes will cost,” he says. “We have customers whom we won’t see for 10 years, but when they do come in, they expect everything here to be the same and for us to remember everything about them. Owning a pair of our shoes is experiential. We are part of the furniture of our clients’ lives.” Bali’s most breath-taking sanctuary SHOD IN HONG KONG The oldest and best-known custom-made shoe shop in Hong Kong is the Kow Hoo Shoe Company, which has been in the Prince’s Building in Central since 1946. Kow Hoo prides itself on shipping handmade footwear to most parts of the world. The price for a pair of calf leather shoes starts at USD650. Some prestige brands also offer bespoke shoe-making services: Kow Hoo Shoe Company, Shop 241, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Central, +852 2523 0489 Dunhill, Shop G11, G/F, 1881 Heritage, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, +852 2368 6851 Ermenegildo Zegna, G1, Alexandra House, 7-15 Des Voeux Road, Central, +852 2868 9638 Berluti, Shop G9, Prince’s Building, Central +852 3114 7987 John Lobb, Shop G3, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road, Central, + 852 2537 2229 Layers of craftsmanship from G.J. Cleverley Escape to a world of rich cultural heritage, omnipresent in the architecture, decor, and most of all, the warm hospitality and daily rituals of your hosts. Explore with 78 private villas and a 290-room hotel on 77 hectares of cliff-top land over Jimbaran Bay. the 1.3 kilometer coastline with secluded whitesand beach, ocean-front pools, golf-putting course, and secret gardens. Savor a different dining experience every day, at 13 venues including the new Rock Bar perched on rocks directly over the ocean. Rejuvenate in Thalasso healing and Balinese therapies at Thermes Marins Bali Spa, Aquatonic Pool and Spa on the Rocks. Each day offers new discovery. Don’t take our word for it; take theirs. BEST HOTEL IN BALI - 2009 Destinasian Readers’ Choice awards #3 BEST SPA HOTELS & RESORTS IN ASIA 2009 SmartTravelAsia awards ONLY HOTEL IN INDONESIA VOTED AMONGST ASIA’S TOP 15 and THE WORLD‘S TOP 100 - 2009 Travel + Leisure Readers’ awards www.ayanaresort.com E XPE R T ADV I CE Cl u b house Private residence clubs take the luxury of holiday-home living to another level BY A AR O N PE A SL E Y econd homes in far-flung locales were once the ultimate signifier of the good life, not to mention very healthy investments. But in the face of shifting lifestyle and travel trends, as well as an unpredictable economy, forking out serious money for a property that’s rarely used is now a far less enticing proposition. Today there are other, more flexible, options to owning a luxurious second residence. When Florence’s spectacular 15th-century Medici Palace was meticulously restored and converted into luxury apartments, the developers adopted a new ownership model, one that, until recently, 24 THE CLUB was largely unknown outside the United States. The property, Palazzo Tornabuoni, was converted into one of Europe’s first urban private residence clubs, offering 18 apartments for full ownership and 20 as part of the club (with a maximum of 160 members). Ranging from studios to three-bedroom residences, the magnificent property will be owned by a maximum of 178 members. Fractional ownership, if you prefer the less glamorous title, was introduced in North America about 15 years ago as a more cost-efficient way for investors to buy and maintain an upscale holiday home. The concept took root in popular holiday destinations such as Colorado and the Caribbean, where owners typically visited for just a few weeks a year. Now rebranded as residence or destination clubs, fractional ownership has gone upscale, offering investors access to some of the world’s most glamorous properties and resorts. What distinguishes private residence clubs from fractionals, and its more down-market predecessor, time-shares, is the perks. Clubs generally come with all the bells and whistles one would find at a luxury hotel. That’s precisely what attracted Swiss Sig Ramseyer, a former chairman of Caterpillar Asia Pacific, to consider a fractional ownership in the Palazzo. Ramseyer and his wife had dreamed of owning a property in Italy, but were concerned about the challenges foreign ownership posed. “Ultimately, we were looking for a property investment without land or maintenance responsibility,” he says. “In the end, a private residence club was perfect for us and a big factor was the management by, and accessibility to, the Four Seasons Hotel [& Resorts] in Florence.” For many investors, particularly those based outside the US, fractional ownership is a new concept. Like Ramseyer, Hong Kong-based Elaine Cheung, who owns Nicholas & Bears, a successful designer children’s clothing chain, had never heard High art: some residences at Florence’s Palazzo Tornabuoni are decorated with 15th-century frescoes of private residence clubs until she came across Palazzo Tornabuoni on one of her regular business trips to Italy. “This kind of ownership was totally new to me,” she says. “I travel to Florence at least twice a year and I am constantly looking for the very best accommodation wherever I travel, and that’s what led me to the Palazzo. When I finally realised business travel, in particular, can be hazard-free and enjoyable, I found no reason not to be part of this incredible property.” Just a 45-minute drive from Florence, Castello di Casole, one of the largest private landholdings in Italy, is a rural example of the residence-club trend. Situated on 1,700 hectares, the property is made up of an 18th-century castle, luxury hotel (to open mid 2010) and meticulously restored farmhouse villas. It represents a way for investors to buy an authentic entrée into the Tuscan dream without the headaches that come with restoring an historic property. Developed by Timbers Resorts, an American company that has completed successful residence clubs in the Caribbean, Mexico and Colorado, Castello di Casole hopes to set the standard in fractional rural luxury. Dick Ragatz, President of Ragatz Associates, an authority on the industry, believes it’s only a matter of time before this type of property ownership becomes popular around the world. “There’s no doubt that fractional developments have become very high-end, and we’re bound to see more in blue-chip cities from Hong Kong to Paris and in exclusive destinations like Thailand, Bali and the Mediterranean,” he says. In addition to superb amenities, such as access to the property’s private vineyard, restaurant and olive grove, avoiding the hassles of buying and renovating a foreign home is often the key enticement for membership. “Second homes abroad are a real challenge,” says Palazzo Tornabuoni member Eggert 26 THE CLUB Hide away at the Pezula Resort Hotel & Spa in South Africa (above) Kick back at the Calistoga Ranch in the Napa Valley (above right) Dagbjartsson, managing director of a Massachusetts-based real-estate investment company. “This we know first-hand and we were not interested in duplicating the experience.” Properties such as Palazzo Tornabuoni offer investors much more than a glamorous holiday address. “When you become a member, you are really becoming a part of Florentine life,” says Michael Brod, Director of Palazzo Tornabuoni. “Membership provides access that is unavailable otherwise.” Similarly, developers of Castello di Casole promise owners, “a lifestyle as rich and diverse as Tuscany itself”. Whether it’s the chance to make their own wines, ski directly out of their chalet door, play a round of golf on a private world-class course or simply kick back in a pied-àterre in one of the world’s most expensive cities, fractional real estate and residence clubs allow luxury enthusiasts a hassle-free way to indulge in their passions. Like Castello di Casole, California’s Napa Valley is welcoming investors to wine country with the chance to buy into a number of properties, including fractionals at five-star Photo. Pezula Hotel & Spa: courtesy of Pezula. Calistoga: Allan Kennedy E XPE R T ADV I CE WEBSITES www.palazzotornabuoni.com www.castellodicasole.com www.calistogaranch.com www.thecarnerosinn.com www.pezula.com www.yoophuket.com www.carnegieclub.co.uk www.stregisresidenceclub.com www.andaz.com www.akresidenceclub.com www.thehideawaysclub.com Earn 200 Bonus Asia Miles When You Stay With Us From now till 31 January 2010, be rewarded with 200 bonus Asia Miles* for every 2 consecutive night’s stay at any participating Ascott, Somerset and Citadines serviced residence in Beijing, Shanghai, Shenzhen, Suzhou, Tokyo, London and more! With more Asia Miles rewarded for every stay, there is no better time to experience the award-winning hospitality of Ascott International! Because life is about living. For reservations, visit www.the-ascott.com/AsiaMiles or email enquiry@the-ascott.com Ascott International is a member of CapitaLand. It is the largest global serviced residence operator in Asia Pacific, Europe and the Gulf region, managing the Ascott, Somerset and Citadines brands in over 60 cities across 22 countries. * Promotional terms and conditions apply. E XPE R T ADV I CE A home away from home at The St. Regis Residence Club in New York Scotland’s Skibo Castle houses The Carnegie Club (right) 28 THE CLUB properties Calistoga Ranch and The Carneros Inn. South Africa’s Pezula Resort Hotel & Spa, a prestigious hotel set on a 1,000-hectare estate, is selling fractional ownerships in two private villas. yooPhuket, comprising of 256 apartments to be sold outright and as fractionals, is believed to be Asia’s first such development. Andrew Carnegie’s Skibo Castle in Scotland (where Madonna married Guy Ritchie) is home to The Carnegie Club. This luxury slice of Highland hospitality gives a lucky few access to the commanding Edwardian property with its historic furniture, Carnegie memorabilia and private golf course. Industry insiders such as Ragatz predict destination-based clubs, despite being hit hard by the credit crunch, will continue to be popular. “We’re certainly going to be seeing more clubs within large cities,” he says. The St. Regis in New York is one of the luxury-hotel brands moving into the fractional real-estate market. Its St. Regis Residence Club occupies the eighth and ninth floors of the historic flagship hotel. Another development that is attracting the attention of the real-estate industry is Hyatt’s Andaz Fifth Avenue, due to open in early 2010. Located opposite the New York Public Library, the hotel will have fractional residences on its top floors. The brand expects to extend the concept into cities worldwide. Precise ownership arrangements of residence clubs vary, depending on where the property is located. Often destination clubs don’t offer deeded ownership. Palazzo Tornabuoni investors purchase a membership in the club, which is a oneeighth stake in either a one, two or three-bedroom residence. Ragatz advises investors to examine local property laws and always work with a lawyer on contracts. The popularity of private residence and destination clubs has dovetailed with some big changes in lifestyle and travel behaviour. “High net-worth buyers today are no longer looking for the flash [option] but rather for sound allocation of the resources that enhance their lifestyle,” explains Jane Guarducci, Director of Sales at Palazzo Tornabuoni. “Previously one of the big reasons for buying a vacation home was the high appreciation rate – that no longer exists.” The residence-club market is predicted to become extremely popular in the coming years, with other companies, including hotel groups, looking for a share of the action. Both high-end travel company Abercrombie & Kent and the Europe-based Hideaways Club have opened similar urban residence clubs. Those who have bought into private residence clubs and destination resorts stress personal enrichment over the financial benefits. “If you’re thinking of buying into a residence club, spend some time there and do your research,’’ says Eggert Dagbjartsson. “Some clubs can be a dime a dozen. They all offer clear benefits, and costs as well. Obviously some properties will fall into a different category and are truly offering something special – that’s what tipped the scale for us.” 24 Auckland HOURS BY HE AT HER R A MSAY New Zealand’s biggest city boasts attractions by the boatload, from awesome adventure trails to world-class shopping, food, wine and art 24 H O U R S Good times and the Auckland Harbour Bridge ahead 7:30am AUCKLAND’S coastal geography and temperate climate allow its 1.4 million inhabitants to effortlessly combine the sophistication of metropolitan living with an outdoor lifestyle centred on beaches, islands and rainforest. Aucklanders love to interact with their environment via action and adventure, so as your plane touches down, suck in a deep breath and commit to seeing the city and surrounds, Kiwi-style. 8am Photo. Tourism New Zealand HIRE A RENTAL CAR at the airport and drive north-west of the city to 4 Track Adventures in Woodhill Forest. The company offers invigorating guided safaris on sporty 300cc quad bikes, so kick-start your Auckland adventure by blasting along shady forest trails to the black sands of Muriwai Beach. Woodhill Forest is also home to mountain-bike, four-wheel-drive and horse-riding experiences, as well as high-wire courses and flying foxes at Tree Adventures. 10am WOODHILL is in the Kumeu district, one of the country’s oldest wine-producing regions, where established names such as Babich, Soljans and Nobilo have been joined by well-known producers including Matua Valley and Coopers Creek. Several offer tastings and cellar-door sales, and the café at Soljans Estate is an excellent place to refuel (try the locally smoked Waitakere bacon). Nearby, artisan honey producer BeesOnline has a stylish café and in the honey centre you can learn all about bees and honey. It would be easy to spend a full day out west but, particularly if it’s Saturday, why not meander through attractive countryside on the city fringe then join droves of Aucklanders on their weekend pilgrimage north-east to the bays and islands of the Matakana Coast. 11am VISIT PRETTY Matakana village to enjoy a gentler, environmentally friendly lifestyle. The region is known for its fabulous produce and passionate locals have embraced the Slow Food movement, emphasising on quality, sustainable, locally produced foodstuffs. On Saturdays at the lively Matakana Farmers’ Market, customers can sample and purchase goods from local growers and producers. Offerings range from oysters to artisan bread, organic meat to olives, macadamia nuts to mustard, cheeses and fresh fruit and vegetables. THE CLUB 31 It’s a fine place to graze, but for those needing something more substantial, tiny Matakana has several excellent cafés. Good choices are the charming Brookview Teahouse, and Cosi café at Morris & James Pottery & Tileworks. Matakana is an emerging wine region, with more than 20 boutique producers growing a range of varieties. In Matakana village, The Vintry Wine Centre & Lounge Bar sells and promotes locally grown wines and offers tastings. where you can snorkel or dive among the teeming marine life or cruise in a glass-bottom boat. A few minutes’ south of Matakana village, wine combines with art at scenic Brick Bay Vineyard and Sculpture Trail. Brick Bay’s striking The Glass House offers tastings, purchases, food platters and coffee, while the sculpture trail weaves through grapevines, coastal farmland and native forest, and features about 50 diverse outdoor artworks. Wine, art and a view at The Glass House, Brick Bay Vineyard, Matakana 1pm Noon IF TIME ALLOWS, venture a few kilometres north to the Leigh Sawmill Brewing Company, a microbrewery that produces natural, handcrafted beer in a historic sawmill. Leigh is the gateway to Goat Island Marine Reserve, 32 THE CLUB THE ROUTE BACK to the city crosses the Auckland Harbour Bridge, one of the city’s symbols. Somewhere above you, others are getting a spectacular view as they tackle the Auckland Bridge Climb and, somewhere below, daredevils are plunging seawards off a suspended How wide is the view? SkyJump at Sky Tower platform designed for Auckland Bridge bungy jumping. Head towards the distinctive 328metre Sky Tower and check into the adjacent SKYCITY Grand Hotel. The hotel is part of the SKYCITY Entertainment Group and rooms offer splendid views of the harbour, city and Sky Tower. Don’t be alarmed if you notice someone teetering around a narrow ledge or leaping off the Sky Tower – the SkyWalk and SkyJump are yet more death-defying Kiwi sight-seeing experiences. For more intimate accommodation, Mollies in St. Mary’s Bay seamlessly blends exquisite classic and modern furnishings to create a gracious retreat. Many details reflect the owners’ passion for music, particularly opera, and recitals are a regular occurrence. Photo. The Glass House – Tourism New Zealand 24 H O U R S 24 H O U R S AUCKLAND IS KNOWN as the “City of Sails” because of its plethora of private yachts, and interest in sailing reached fever pitch when New Zealand held the coveted America’s Cup from 1995 until 2003. The Cup has been wrested away but the excitement is recreated daily on two-hour cruises on an America’s Cup yacht. Participants on Sail NZ excursions can sit back and enjoy the cruise or help the crew manning grinders, hauling sails or taking the helm. If you’d rather be under the water, Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter and Underwater World features a 110-metre tunnel where sharks and other denizens of the deep cruise overhead. A frozen Antarctic landscape is populated by penguins. Take a guided shark dive in the main tank or stand in waist-deep water to hand-feed graceful stingrays. the fashionable inner-city suburbs of Ponsonby, Newmarket and Parnell. A peaceful alternative is Auckland Domain, a 75-hectare inner-city oasis on one of Auckland’s numerous volcanic cones. The summit is dominated by the Auckland War Memorial Museum. 6:30pm BACK AT SKYCITY Grand Hotel, wind down in the sanctuary of the hotel’s East Day Spa or try the new Chuan Spa at The Langham, Auckland where harmony has been created using feng shui principles. DINE Agents & Merchants +64 9 309 5852 www.agentsandmerchants.co.nz Brookview Teahouse +64 9 423 0390 www.brookviewteahouse.co.nz 4pm FOR FIRST-CLASS shopping, visit design stores and galleries in heritage buildings near the waterfront or walk along the main thoroughfare, Queen Street, to heritage-listed Vulcan Lane and High, O’Connell and Chancery streets. This area has many designer stores, including top New Zealand labels such as Karen Walker, Zambesi and World. Several also have outlets in 34 THE CLUB Viaduct Harbour, where the fun revs up when the sun goes down Cosi +64 9 422 7484 www.morrisandjames.co.nz dine by Peter Gordon +64 9 363 7030 www.skycityauckland.co.nz Euro Restaurant & Bar Shed 22, Princes Wharf, Quay Street, Viaduct, +64 9 309 9866 Iguacu Restaurant & Bar +64 9 358 4804, www.iguacu.co.nz Kahve 401 Tamaki Drive, St. Heliers +64 9 575 2919 Prego 226 Ponsonby Road, Ponsonby +64 9 376 3095 dine by Peter Gordon Racket +64 9 309 5852 www.britomart.org Rosehip 82 Gladstone Road, Parnell +64 9 369 1182 Sierra Princes Wharf, 137 Quay Street +64 9 309 9064 Soul Bar & Bistro +64 9 356 7249 www.soulbar.co.nz SPQR +64 9 360 1710 www.spqrnz.co.nz Photos. Viaduct and SPQR: Tourism Auckland 2pm 12:30am PA R T N E R O F F E R DEVELOPED FOR the America’s Cup regattas, the Viaduct Harbour has some 20 waterfront bars and restaurants, many with open-air terraces. The Viaduct comes alive when the rest of the city tucks up for bed. In the nearby Britomart complex, two classy new bars – Racket and Agent & Merchants – look set to make a mark on the night-owl scene. SKYCITY casinos operate 24 hours a day, with gaming, entertainment and dining options. Enjoy a complimentary SkyWalk when you purchase any Auckland package 6:30am 8pm CHEF PETER GORDON is regarded as a master of fusion food that combines elements of cuisines from around the globe. At his restaurant, dine by Peter Gordon at SKYCITY Grand, expect fine food and wine, elegant décor and wellinformed service. 10:30pm PONSONBY ROAD is a hip place in which to see and be seen, and SPQR is popular with the city’s celebrities. Like many other New Zealand hospitality outlets it morphs from a daytime café into an atmospheric restaurant and winds up as a lively bar during the evenings. HEAD TO THE WATERFRONT for a helicopter flight with Helilink and take a last look at Auckland as the morning sunlight spreads over the city's beautiful harbour, islands and volcanoes. Greens seen at SPQR in Ponsonby From 16 November 2009 to 15 February 2010, book a 5-day/3-night Auckland package from Cathay Pacific Holidays and travel from 20 November 2009 to 28 February 2010, and each member of The Marco Polo Club can enjoy a complimentary SkyWalk. Package prices start from HKD7,119 and include: • A round-trip Economy Class flight between Hong Kong and Auckland on Cathay Pacific Airways • Three consecutive nights’ accommodation at selected hotels • Travel insurance Soaring 192 metres above the ground, SkyWalk is a walkway around Auckland’s famous Sky Tower offering spectacular views of Auckland city and the sparkling harbour. For reservations, contact Cathay Holidays Limited: Telephone: +852 2747 4388 Website: www.cxholidays.com Terms and conditions • Price is quoted per person, based on two adults sharing one room, checking in together and travelling together throughout the entire journey. • Cathay Holidays Limited terms and conditions apply. THE CLUB 35 24 H O U R S BeesOnline +64 9 411 7953 www.beesonline.co.nz The Vintry Wine Centre & Lounge Bar www.thevintry.nz.co Chuan Spa at The Langham +64 9 300 2960 www.chuanspa.co.nz Matakana Farmers’ Market +64 9 422 7433 www.matakanavillage.co.nz Brick Bay Vineyard, Sulpture Trail and The Glass House +64 9 425 4690 www.brickbay.co.nz East Day Spa +64 9 363 7050 www.eastdayspa.com Mudbrick Vineyard +64 9 372 9050 www.mudbrick.co.nz 4 Track Adventures +64 9 420 8104 www.4trackadventures.co.nz Sail NZ +64 9 359 5987 www.sailnz.co.nz Goat Island Marine Reserve +64 9 422 6127 www.discovergoatisland.co.nz SkyWalk and SkyJump +64 9 368 1835 www.skywalk.co.nz Helilink +64 9 377 4406 www.helilink.co.nz Soljans Estate +64 9 412 5858 www.soljans.co.nz Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter and Underwater World +64 9 528 0603 www.kellytarltons.co.nz Stonyridge Vineyard +64 9 372 8822 www.stonyridge.co.nz SHOP PA R T N E R O F F E R See the best of New Zealand with Hertz and enjoy one day’s free rental From 16 November 2009 to 15 February 2010, rent a car with Hertz for five or more consecutive days at participating locations in New Zealand and you’ll enjoy one day’s free rental. Plus, as a member of The Marco Polo Club, you’ll receive a 10% discount on Affordable Rates and earn 500 Asia Miles on every qualifying rental. To enjoy this offer, simply make your reservation 24 hours prior to your departure with Hertz. Quote PC#137270 and CDP#1039946 (Green), 44130 (Silver), 226006 (Gold) or 226817 (Diamond) at the time of reservation, and present your Marco Polo Club membership card at the rental counter. Telephone: +852 2525 2838 Email: reshertz@hertz-gsa.com.hk Website: www.hertz.com Terms and conditions • This offer is valid on Affordable Rates (leisure retail rates) at participating locations in New Zealand. • This offer is subject to a minimum of five days’ rental, with a maximum of one day free per rental. 36 THE CLUB Leigh Sawmill Brewing Company and Café +64 9 422 6019 www.sawmillcafe.co.nz Britomart www.britomart.org STAY Hilton Auckland +64 9 978 2000 www.hilton.com Mollies +64 9 376 3489 www.mollies.co.nz SKYCITY Grand Hotel +64 9 363 6000 www.skycityauckland.co.nz VISIT Auckland Bridge Climb and Bungy +64 9 361 2000 www.aucklandbridgeclimb.co.nz Auckland War Memorial Museum +64 9 309 0443 www.aucklandmuseum.com Tree Adventures (toll free) +0800 827 926 www.treeadventures.co.nz MORE INFO: www.aucklandnz.com Mollies hotel PA R T N E R O F F E R Mark Pirihi Cathay Pacific Sales & Marketing Manager, New Zealand My recommendation is to hire a car and get going. Heading west, you can visit the vineyards or take in surf and sun on the beaches. East is the waterfront and Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Encounter and Underwater World. Head north over the Auckland Harbour Bridge to see more beaches, go shopping, and visit cafés. To the south are the Bombay Hills and the route to the rest of the country: first stop, Rotorua, which can be seen in a day but it is best to allow at least three days to experience the true Maori culture. Auckland is based around the sea and, for a relaxing day, take the ferry to Waiheke Island. Lunch at either Stonyridge or Mudbrick vineyards with fine New Zealand wines, or enjoy the many walks around the island, horse-riding, or swim in the bays. Dining in the central business district revolves around the famous Viaduct Basin – the base for previous America’s Cup teams. The cafés in the basin are plentiful and you can’t go past a good coffee and big brekky at Sierra. For a more relaxing start, breakfast at Rosehip in Parnell, across the road from the rose gardens, or make your way to Mission Bay where there are many eateries. From here, you can walk around to the next few bays. At St. Heliers, a favourite café is Kahve. Then walk it all off again along the beautiful waterfront. At dinner time, Soul Bar & Bistro and Euro Restaurant & Bar offer first-class seafood and New Zealand meat, plus extensive wine lists. Stay in the Viaduct after your meal and visit the vast range of pubs, bars and lounges. Parnell has Iguacu Restaurant & Bar, named Best New Zealand Restaurant in 2008; Ponsonby has more of a relaxed café scene – a popular spot for many locals is Prego. Shopping is wide and varied, but most first-time visitors leave with Kiwi souvenirs such as sheepskin products or Maori crafts. In summer, if you want to blend in with the locals, adults should cool down with a cold Kiwi beer and kids love our famous hokey-pokey ice-cream. And, if in town when the All Blacks are playing a rugby Test match, find a ticket and experience this integral part of Kiwi culture. Receive special privileges from The Westin Auckland Lighter Quay From 16 November 2009 to 1 February 2010, book a minimum two nights’ stay at the Best Available Rate at The Westin Auckland Lighter Quay to experience the ultimate night’s sleep in the internationally renowned Westin Heavenly® Bed – and you’ll also receive the following benefits: • An upgrade to the next room category • A sumptuous daily buffet breakfast at the waterfront Q restaurant • A cocktail to be enjoyed at the chic Office Bar To enjoy this offer, please quote promotion code “Marco Polo Club” at the time of reservation. Telephone: +64 9 909 9000 Email: reservations.auckland@westin.com Website: www.westin.com/Auckland Bars and restaurants in Viaduct Harbour Terms and conditions • Room stay is based on a single or double occupancy. • This offer is not available on 31 December 2009. THE CLUB 37 What lies beneath BY VALERY G AR R E T T Royal seal: the Nanyue King’s Tomb Museum displays a jade suit which was believed would preserve the body of Zhao Mo T R AV E L Photos: ChinaFotoPress Guangzhou is known to most visitors as a capital of commerce, but the historic city also has a wealth of spectacular hidden treasures only now seeing the light of day hile tourists flock to the led away from the palace through the city’s four main gates Forbidden City in Beijing to fool grave robbers and prevent looting of the fabulous or the Terracotta Army in funerary goods. His tomb has never been found, although Xian, most visitors head to some suspect it may lie under the hill in Yuexiu Park bearing Guangzhou on business, quite the monument to Sun Yat-sen. But labourers levelling a mound unaware of its long history. near the China Hotel in June 1983 struck gold. They had stumbled upon the tomb of Zhao Tuo’s grandson, Zhao Mo, “Guangzhou is a unique city, but the kingdom’s second ruler who reigned from 137-122BC. many foreigners are not familiar with this,” says Dr Marlley Wang, Vice-Director of the Museum Incredibly, nothing in the tomb had been touched, although of the Western Han Dynasty and Mausoleum of the Nanyue it had been flooded. “After permission was received in August, King. “It is a historical place full of archaeological discoveries archaeologists were given only 40 days for excavation before work began on the building,” says Dr Wang. and ancient buildings.” “Since nine out of 10 tombs have Once known as Canton, Guangzhou has been robbed, this was a coma horde of hidden treasure to rival any pletely unexpected find.” city, but it’s often overlooked. This In the centre of the area of South China was settled three millennia ago by the Yue cross-shaped stone burial group of ethnic tribes who fished, chamber, the king was dressed in a jade suit of farmed and traded. In 203BC a Hebei Province general, Zhao Tuo, 2,291 plaques linked with united the tribes and established silk ribbons, believed to the kingdom of Nanyue – or Southern prevent the body from decaying Yue – crowning himself King Wu. He named and promising immortality. The the capital Panyu (today’s Guangzhou), making it one of corpse lay in a wooden coffin with a silk sack Jade of pearls placed behind its head. In an outer coffin the oldest cities in China. The kingdom stretched beyond jewellery modern-day Guangdong to cover parts of Guangxi, from the above the head was a lacquer wooden box containYunnan and what is now northern Vietnam. ing more pearls – in all more than four kilos were Nanyue Dr Wang says when Zhao Tuo died in 137BC corteges king’s tomb found. Pearls were given to kings and emperors THE CLUB 39 T R AV E L PA R T N E R O F F E R Enjoy a special rate and exclusive benefits at the Grand Hyatt Guangzhou From 16 November 2009 to 15 February 2010, members of The Marco Polo Club will enjoy the following privileges during their stay at the Grand Hyatt Guangzhou: • Special room rate from just RMB1,600 per night in a Grand Club room for two, including access to the Grand Club Lounge, daily continental breakfast, an evening cocktail and much more • A 60-minute O Signature Body massage for two • One-way airport transfer in a Mercedes-Benz S300 or use of a city car for two hours Conveniently located in the heart of Guangzhou’s new Central Business District, the Grand Hyatt Guangzhou offers easy access to major business and shopping areas. Please quote offer code MP726 when making your reservations. Telephone: + 86 20 8396 1234 Website: www.guangzhou.grand.hyatt.com Terms and conditions • The above rate is subject to 15% service charge. 40 THE CLUB as charms of good fortune. A silver box, believed to have come from Persia, held medicinal pills and was placed at the foot between the two coffins. Zhao Mo was apparently keen to live in heaven in the manner to which he was accustomed on earth. The remains of 15 sacrificial victims were found in the tomb: his four concubines, two guards, a eunuch, a young musician and seven servants, as well as cattle, sheep and pigs to provide sustenance in the next world. A rear storeroom contained traces of rice and fish, together with several cooking pots. More than 10,000 relics, including jade ornaments, ritual vessels, musical instruments, pottery and iron swords were unearthed, making this one of China’s major historical sites. Many of these treasures are displayed in the red sandstone museum next to the tomb. An exceptional piece is a gold seal with a dragon. “This is the first example found of a dragon being used by a ruler,” says Dr Wang. “Later emperors used the dragon as a symbol of power.” More examples of the city’s distant past can be seen in the Guangzhou Museum in Yuexiu Park, across the road from the tomb. To the left of the restored Great North Gate, once a major entry to the city, a path runs alongside the ancient city wall until it reaches the Zhenhai Tower, built in the Ming Part of the excavated site Dynasty (1368-1644) as a watch tower. Now the city’s main of the Palace Garden of the museum, four floors of exhibits tell the story of Guangzhou Nanyue Kingdom from early times to the 20th century, and include the famous clepsydra, or water clock, which stood in Beijing Road (Beijing Lu). Outside are the remains of a wooden tomb of the Nanyue period discovered in 2003 that belonged to a high official or nobleman. The tomb had been robbed and only the lacquered leather armour, the first of its kind discovered in China, remained. It has now been restored. “We have had items on loan from the Nanyue Palace Gardens since 2007,” says Dr Cheng Cunjie, Director of the museum. He’s referring to the 15,000-square-metre site Photos. Guangzhou Museum: Alamy/ArgusPhoto. Excavation: Xinhua News Photo. Dragon seal: Courtesy of Nanyue King's Tomb Musuem Gold seal that is the earliest example of a dragon used by a ruler discovered in 1995 in the heart of the oldest part of the city. This covers just a tenth of the estimated total area of the palace and gardens. The land on Zhongshan 4 Road had been sold to a large Hong Kong developer but when construction started and tiles from the Nanyue kingdom were unearthed, work quickly stopped. Since then excavation has been carried out under huge curved iron roofs covering the rough brown earth. The imperial garden is the oldest and best preserved example found so far. Kings and courtiers in flowing robes walked on flagstone paths winding through the garden and over the earliest surviving stone bridge in China. There is evidence of pavilions where they sat by crescent-shaped pools and lotus ponds. Sandstone slabs with the characters “Pan Yu” were discovered on the walls of one of the ponds. An artificial brook meandered through, as slabs and pebbles controlled and shaped the flow of water, creating a soothing rippling effect. The stone pond and the brook were both listed in the top 10 archaeological discoveries of China that year. The site closed to the public in May this year for the construction of a garden-like museum at a cost of up to RMB800 million (about HKD908 million). Divided into three phases, the first is scheduled to open in time for the 16th Asian Games in Guangzhou in November 2010. When the entire project is completed in 2016, the new Nanyue Kingdom Palace Museum, along with the Museum of the Western Han Dynasty, will apply for World Cultural Heritage status. Guangzhou Museum where exhibits tell the story of the city from early times to the 20th century “KINGS AND COURTIERS IN FLOWING ROBES WALKED ON FLAGSTONE PATHS” THE CLUB 41 T R AV E L PA R T N E R O F F E R From 16 November 2009 to 15 February 2010, members of The Marco Polo Club will receive a complimentary upgrade to the next car class on an eligible chauffeurdriven car rental from Avis in Guangzhou, China, when renting for a minimum of two days at participating locations. Plus, you’ll also enjoy the Avis Worldwide 25% Discount and earn Asia Miles. To enjoy the offer, simply quote your membership number as well as the appropriate Avis Worldwide Discount number when making a reservation. • • • • Green: AWD K305400 Silver: AWD K305500 Gold: AWD K305600 Diamond: AWD K305700 Email: rentacar@avis.com.hk Telephone: +852 2576 6831 Website: www.avis.com.hk (Hong Kong) www.avisworld.com (other countries) Terms and condition • All rentals must commence and be completed between 16 November 2009 and 15 February 2010. • Standard Avis terms and conditions apply. 42 THE CLUB Jade ornament with a monster mask found on the Nanyue king’s forehead More of Guangzhou’s past was discovered across from the Palace Gardens on Beijing Road in the summer of 2002. Always an important street, in earlier times scholars flocked to the bookstores. Now it’s lined with fashion outlets. Remains of the road from the Song (960-1279), Yuan (1279-1368) and Ming Dynasties are visible under glass at ground level. Here, for almost 1,000 years, highranking mandarins in richly embroidered robes stepped over these stone slabs from the Treasurer’s office down to the Pearl River. Before it silted up the river was much wider. A large relief map shows the ancient city with its walls, canals and river. The most recent find from the Nanyue kingdom, which ended in 111BC when it was incorporated into the rest of China, came in 2000 during the construction of the Metro Mall shopping centre off Beijing Road. From April to October archaeologists raced to excavate the wooden watergate, the earliest example ever discovered. Built next to the Pearl River as part of Photos. Jades: ChinaFotoPress. Beijing Road: ImagineChina Explore Guangzhou with Avis and receive a complimentary upgrade Layers of history under Beijing Road The rhinoceros horn-shaped drinking vessel found in the Nanyue king’s tomb PA R T N E R O F F E R the city flood-control system, the watergate is the largest and best preserved in the world. Wooden planks controlled the flow of water and modern watergates still in use are similar in design. In the mall’s basement museum, the watergate is surrounded by display cases including tiles, an iron axe head, bronze bowls and ceramics, dating through to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). “Since China’s open-door policy in the 1980s, more construction work has been carried out, and more archaeological sites will be found,” Dr Wang says. In July, she says, a team from the Institute of Archaeologists were urgently called out to an island in the Pearl River. It was being cleared to attract manufacturers of medical products. The archaeologists found more than 100 tombs dating from the Han Dynasty (206BC220AD). Many had been looted but others were well-preserved and contained bricks, pottery houses, animals and vases. One thing’s for sure. As Guangzhou continues to develop in the pursuit of business, much more of its ancient history will be uncovered. It’s only a matter of time. Enjoy an upgrade and other privileges at the Shangri-La Hotel, Guangzhou From 16 November 2009 to 12 February 2010, simply book a Deluxe Room at Best Available Rate at the Shangri-La Hotel, Guangzhou − and you’ll receive: • • • • GUANGZHOU HISTORY REVEALED Museum of the Western Han Dynasty and Mausoleum of the Nanyue King 867 Jiefang Bei Road +86 20 3618 2920. Open daily 9am to 5:30pm (except 28 February and 31 August) www.gznywmuseum.com Archaeological site of the wooden watergate Take the lift to the basement of Metro Mall Shopping Centre, Guangming Square, Xihu Road. Open 2pm-6pm Mon-Fri, and 12pm-6pm Sat and Sun. Archaeological site of the palace garden of the Nanyue Kingdom Zhongshan 4 Road, across from Beijing Road and Wende Road. Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasty streets Visible under glass at the top of Beijing Road. Guangzhou Museum Zhenhai Tower, Yuexiu Park +86 20 8355 0627 +86 20 8354 5253 Open daily 9am-5:30pm www.guangzhoumuseum.cn An upgrade to a Premier RiverView Room Daily buffet breakfast at Wok Too for two Daily international buffet dinner at Wok Too for two A bottle of wine to enjoy in your room Conveniently located within a five-minute walk from the Guangzhou International Convention and Exhibition Centre, the Shangri-La Hotel, Guangzhou offers spectacular views of the Pearl River and comfortable, lavish accommodation and dining options. For reservations, please quote your membership number and rate code “CXMARCO”. Telephone: +852 2331 6688 Fax: +852 2331 6699 Website: www.shangri-la.com Terms and conditions • Rate is subject to 10% service charge and 5% government tax. THE CLUB 43 INSIDE CX BY K AR EN PI T TAR AND TAR A JENK INS Say cheese Brendan Duffy, the man who organises the onboard cheese board 44 THE CLUB rendan Duffy, Cathay Pacific’s Catering Manager, is an expert on mould. In fact, he’s passionate about it. He understands the intricacies of injecting the Penicillium roqueforti fungus into France’s pungent “king of cheeses” – the deliciously sharp and tangy Roquefort. He can explain in great detail how six million wheels of the greenish-veined cheese ripen underground in the 10 hectares of natural limestone caves, hidden inside the Combalou mountain near Marseilles. Duff y knows how cheese must be stored so it doesn’t lose its taste and aroma, and he understands that cheese resembles a fine wine: every time you try a different variety it’s a brandnew taste sensation. Duffy is responsible for selecting the meals on every Cathay Pacific flight, and he says choosing the selection of onboard cheeses is his favourite part of the job: “I’ve always loved cheese. To a lot of people, it’s an important part of the meal structure. But it can actually cleanse the palate and is a wonderful alternative to dessert.” For Duffy, part of the appeal in choosing cheese is uncovering exciting new flavours and aromas from artisan cheesemakers. “Flavour is affected by what the animals eat in the fields: fresh herbs, lush grass. All can be subtly detected in the final flavour of the cheese.” One inflight favourite is the rich, velvety brie from Somerset, one of the best dairy regions in Britain. The county’s ideal soil and regular rainfall produce lush pastures that, in turn, lead to the creation of superb cheeses. These undulating hills in England’s West Country are dotted with artisan cheesemakers who specialise in this handmade, creamy farmhouse cheese. “There are little gems everywhere,” says Duff y. “Some of our lesser-known cheeses include Cornish Yarg from Cornwall, England; Gubbeen from West Cork in Ireland; Forme d’Ambert from Auvergne, a mountainous central region of France; and Te Mata blue [from New Zealand]. “For flights out of Hong Kong, we work with a company in Zurich that sources cheese from all over Europe – France, Germany, Spain, Italy and the UK. They go to the artisan cheesemakers and dairies and ask them to prepare samples to ensure a balance of quality, seasonality and consistency of supply. “We then do an annual tasting and decide the best selection for the meals onboard at that time. Our monthly cheese Photos: Gareth Brown It’s popular, tasty, versatile and has countless varieties. Cathay Pacific catering’s “big cheese” talks about the favourite part of his job A way with curds: Executive Sous Chef Gary Thomas 46 THE CLUB order for flights in and out of Hong Kong is 2,000 kilograms. In addition we also travel to over 40 different Cathay Pacific ports – Australia, New Zealand and so on – where we taste local cheeses to be used onboard.” Duff y says the most popular cheeses are soft, such as the mild and creamy bries and camemberts, but Cathay Pacific also carries a selection of superb hard cheeses. “There is a selection of four cheeses in First Class and three in Business Class. We always offer a blue, a hard, a semi-hard and soft – we like to mix it up and offer variety. Asian passengers tend to choose soft cheese but Western passengers prefer the harder, stronger cheese.” Another of Duffy’s recommendations is the robust, semi-firm Manchego, from central Spain. Harsh weather conditions mean the elevated plateau of La Mancha is arid and windswept, but also surprisingly fertile. Home to flocks of hardy Manchega sheep, the region produces Manchego cheese. The herringbone pattern on the surface of the rind and imprints of wheat ears on the top and bottom of the wheel render this cheese’s earthy appearance. But it’s not enough to simply source the best cheese from all around the world, it’s equally important to prepare and serve it correctly. “Cheese is basically fat from milk and, like any fat, it hardens in chilled conditions, so temperature is profoundly important,” says Duff y. “The best way to eat cheese is at room temperature. Bring it out of the chiller one to two hours before [serving] to make sure it [releases] the intensity of its flavour. “Take goat’s cheese, for example. Right out of the chiller it’s chalky in the centre, but leave it for an hour and it becomes gloriously gooey. Like any wine or food, serving cheese too cold doesn’t allow it to reveal its full characteristics.” Duff y says cabins are normally cooled to the mid-20 degrees Celsius and the chillers set to 4 degrees, so cabin crew are asked to take cheese out of the chiller an hour before they serve it. Cathay Pacific is also in the process of introducing tasting notes on every inflight cheese board, providing information on the cheese’s origin, type of milk and characteristics, which the crew can then share with passengers. Given the menus change anywhere between one and six months (and more often on some short-haul flights for Photos. Quince paste: JupiterImages/FoodPix/Getty Images INSIDE CX “THE CHE CHEESE IS SUSPENDED IN NITROG NITROGEN AND IT’S ALMOST AS IF IT IT’S HIBERNATING” frequent flyers), that’s a great deal of cheese to taste. Traditional methods dictate cheese should be wrapped in grease-proof or wax paper to retain its moisture, but still allow it to breathe. Cathay Pacific’s modern solution is gas-flush packaging. “The cheese is suspended in nitrogen and it’s almost as if it’s hibernating. If the cheesemaker cuts the cheese into slices three weeks before the flight and it’s immediately packed, it in no way affects the quality or flavour. It is totally different from cling film, which suffocates the cheese, making it lose its taste and aroma. So when the crew opens the pack, it’s as if the cheesemaker has just handed it to them.” Duff y suggests serving cheese with fruit, such as slices of fresh green Granny Smith apple or grapes, or combining it with a fruit paste such as quince or fig, all of which are offered on Cathay Pacific’s flights around the world. “A lot of new products, such as South Australian chef Maggie Beer’s delicious fruit pastes, complement cheese very well.” Cheese is traditionally served at the end of a meal, but other cultures have influenced its use in cuisine, says Duff y. “You can choose to have cheese in your soup or freshly grated over pasta. In different parts of the world, cheese is served at different times. In the Middle East, haloumi is typically an appetiser; grilled goat’s cheese can also be served as a first course. In France, it [can act as] a palate cleanser after the main meal.” Soft cheeses such as brie and camembert are always part of the selection (above) As this article goes to print, it’s likely Duff y is flying to one of Cathay Pacific’s 40 ports with his two assistants, making choices about the next array of delicious cheeses to offer onboard. And if he’s not at work, he will probably be relaxing with friends, sharing a bottle of red wine and, of course, sampling a plate of cheese. Maggie Beer’s quince paste: delicious with cheese THE CLUB 47 C X N E WS Cathay Pacific launches new services to Saudi Arabia and Fiji Cathay Pacific’s hospitality box The Wing at Sha Tin Racecourse Cathay Pacific launched flights to Jeddah, the second major commercial city in Saudi Arabia, on 25 October. The four-times-weekly service operates through Dubai on the way to and from Hong Kong. In addition, Cathay Pacific will launch a codeshare service with Air Pacific to Nadi, Fiji, from 3 December, with two flights a week. The new services will serve to further boost Hong Kong’s position as a leading international aviation hub. Fast track with Frequent Visitor e-Channels Watch in style and comfort with Cathay Pacific hospitality boxes Experience the thrill of racing at Cathay Pacific’s hospitality boxes, The Wing, at the Hong Kong Jockey Club racecourses in Happy Valley and Sha Tin. Reserve your seats now to enjoy a sumptuous international buffet and prime views of the final furlong and finishing line. Complimentary parking is available at both racecourses, subject to availability upon booking. For reservations or to find out more, log in to your Marco Polo Club account at www.cathaypacific.com or contact The Wing Reservation Hotline on +852 2837 5000. Silver or above members of The Marco Polo Club can now enjoy quicker and more convenient immigration clearance at Hong Kong International Airport by using the Frequent Visitor e-Channels. Members need to enrol by presenting their Marco Polo Club membership card and travel documents in person at the Immigration Department Enrolment Office located in the Arrivals Hall at Hong Kong International Airport. Central America’s Mexicana joins oneworld Mexicana, the leading airline in Mexico and Central America, became part of oneworld® alliance on 10 November, 2009. Its subsidiaries MexicanaClick and 48 THE CLUB MexicanaLink are affiliate members. You will be able to earn tier status miles and sectors and receive all other oneworld benefits on Mexicana and its affiliates. Quick and easy Home Delivery Service befitting of a wine hub Paul Loo, General Manager Cathay Pacific Loyalty Programmes Ltd. (right), accepts the award from guest presenter and cellist Trey Lee Asia Miles collects Best Frequent Flyer Programme award Asia Miles was named Best Frequent Flyer Programme in the 2009 Business Traveller Asia-Pacific Travel Awards. It is the fifth consecutive year it has won the award that recognises the effort and commitment of Asia Miles to provide the best products and services to its 3.5 million members worldwide. Are you a Marco Polo Club member residing in Hong Kong? You can now order wine sourced from renowned winemakers in France and Australia and have it delivered to your home through Estate Wines Direct. “The new Home Delivery Service had its origins in the Hong Kong Government’s removal of the import duty “A new dimension of service,” says Jessica Wan on wine in February 2008 08 in order to position the cityy as the ‘wine hub of Asia’,” explained ained the Cathay Pacific Inflight ht Sales Operations Manager, Jessica ssica Wan. “More and more people eople in Hong Kong have developed eloped an interest in wine appreciation eciation and our selections offer a variety of wines to suit differentt tastes tastes.”” The four selections include: Discovery: Cabernet sauvignon, shiraz, semillon sauvignon blanc, and chardonnay from Edwards, an award-winning winery in the Margaret River region of Western Australia Bordeaux-Lovers’: Chateaux Liversan 2006 Haut-Médoc Collectors’: Echo de LynchBages 2008 Sparkling: Taittinger Non-Vintage Brut Réserve. “The Home Delivery Service adds a new dimension of service to the overall shopping experience for our valued customers,” said Jessica. “It is a complement to our inflight sales business that extends our service from inflight to your doorstep.” To find out more, please ask the Cabin Crew on your next flight with Cathay Pacific or visit www.cathaypacific.com/ dutyfree CLUB PARTNERS : For exclusive Club partner offers, please visit the member’s area of www.cathaypacific.com Hilton Worldwide • Hilton® Hotels • Conrad® Hotels & Resorts • Doubletree by Hilton™ • Embassy Suites Hotels by Hilton™ • Hilton Garden Inn™ • Hilton Grand Vacations™ • The Waldorf Astoria™ Hotels & Resorts Hyatt Hotels & Resorts™ • Park Hyatt™ Hotels • Grand Hyatt™ Hotels • Hyatt Regency™ Hotels • Hyatt Place™ • Hyatt Summerfield Suites™ Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group Marriott International Hotels Marriott® Hotels & Resorts • JW Marriott® Hotels & Resorts • Renaissance® Hotels & Resorts Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts • Traders Hotels Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide Sheraton Hotels & Resorts® • Four Points® by Sheraton • St. Regis® Hotels & Resorts • The Luxury Collection® • Le Méridien • W Hotels® • Westin Hotels & Resorts® Swire Hotels The Peninsula Hotels Avis Hertz SIXT rent a car For all partner offers, prices quoted are subject to change without prior notice. Peak season surcharges apply. Advance reservation is required. Rooms and offers are subject to availability. Blackout dates apply. Offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotional offer or membership benefit. THE CLUB 49 WHAT LIES BENEATH GUANGZHOU’S PAST UNEARTHED QUARTER 4 2009 CLUBHOUSE HOMES AWAY FROM HOME MAGAZINE OF THE MARCO POLO CLUB QUARTER 4 2009