style with an edge

Transcription

style with an edge
TREND REPORT
STYLE WITH
AN EDGE
2014’S MOST
UPDATED
TRENDS IN MEN’S
FASHION + THE
DO’s AND DONT's
YOU DIDN’T
KNOW ABOUT
RAYMOND TREND REPORT 1
SUITS  SHIRTS  BANDHGALAS  SHOES  TIES  CUFFLINKS  and more
CONCEPT & REALISATION: VISHWAVEER SINGH
ART DIRECTION: SURESH BHANDARY
PHOTO RESEARCH: KIRTHIKA PRASAD
2 RAYMOND TREND REPORT
PHOTO: RYAN MARTIS
DESIGNER'S NOTE
Vito Dell'Erba
Creative Director, Raymond
D
ressing well for men is a chore. It comes to some easily, but
to most it’s a lifelong process of discovery and learning
from trial and error. In India, men’s fashion is changing
just as rapidly as the country’s skyline. Men no longer go in
for the tried and tested formulas but experiment with looks and
fashions... sometimes successfully and sometimes rather poorly.
In an effort to keep up with the times we at Raymond compiled
a list of this year’s most note-worthy trends and some very basic
rules for dressing. This Trend Report is the result of our efforts
to give the Indian man a guiding compass for his journey into
fashion and style.
“
The urban man-about-town in Mumbai or New
Delhi has to deal with a whole different set of
requirements than his brethren in New York,
London or Milan
”
The rules that hold true for the West don’t necessarily work for
the Indian gent. The urban man-about-town in Mumbai or New
Delhi has to deal with a whole different set of requirements
than his brethren in New York, London or Milan. That doesn’t
however mean that he can’t be just as cutting-edge and up to
date with all things fashionable as everyone else. Bespokely
tailored for the needs of this breed, the Trend Report you hold
in your hands or are reading on your screen, is probably the
first attempt at producing an all-you-need-to-know guide into
fashion for Indian men.
We hope you pick up a few pointers from it and learn from the
fine clotheshorses who grace its pages.
RAYMOND TREND REPORT 3
EVENING WEAR
E
very Indian bloke has some version of evening wear in his wardrobe...
that black multi-purpose suit that doubles up as funeral-wear when
visiting a cemetery, becomes a tuxedo with a black tie when the
occasion calls for it and morphs into clubbing-wear when paired with
denims and a white shirt. If you’re reading this, we suggest you burn that
good-for-all-occasions monstrosity as soon as you can. It’s time to invest
in evening wear that’s event appropriate. There’s nothing shabbier than
having an ill-fitting black suit that you use for your friend’s weddings,
your office dinners and for interviews. Leave the emotional
baggage behind, we know the fella has been with you
through thick and thin, it’s time to make new friends... the
crisp, well-fitted, fashionable kinds.
TUXEDOS
There’s never been a more accepting age for the
tuxedo than the one we are experiencing now.
Bollywood, that enigmatic dispenser of all fashion
trends to the masses, has deemed the tux au courant,
which means that every award presenter worth his
salt is going to be sporting a tuxedo, guests at these
filmi soirées are going to don designer-borrowed
tuxedos and put on their clip on bow-ties in an effort
to look as much like Sean Connery (demanding a
shaken, not stirred Martini) as they can. This doesn’t
mean you jump in the same well as the good folks
on the silver screen.
Jay Z wears a
velour dinner jacket
to a formal event
4 RAYMOND TREND REPORT
WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT
■ A black, classic tuxedo is a safe bet and
will never go out of fashion. Don’t go for
the three-piece rigmarole, ditch the vest and
you’re all set.
■ There’s nothing more criminal than an illfitted tuxedo at a high-end party.
Everyone’s making an effort
and so should you. If you’re
one of those tricky few
who can’t find their sizes
easily when picking up
off the rack, we suggest
you make a quick trip
to your neighbourhood
tailor (not the darzi!)
and
get
something
bespoke tailored.
■ If you feel you can
carry it off, by that we
mean you have the
personality for it, opt
for a white tuxedo
jacket paired with
black fitted trousers.
The fit and the collar
of your jacket make
all the difference
here.
Broad,
dramatic lapels are
in. The shawl collar
goes better with the
black jacket and can make
you look like a waiter
or a groom in a white
one, unless you’re
Andy Garcia!
Prince Charles has always
exemplified British-chic when it
comes to evening dressing (above),
the same goes for his compatriot
Colin Firth and American screen
supernova George Clooney
RAYMOND TREND REPORT 5
WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT
■ Make sure you have silk stripes on your trousers and on the
stitching of your jacket pockets or lapels. This is one sure-shot
way of making out the difference between a tux and a normal
black suit.
■ Winged-tipped collared shirts were OK when The Godfather
was shot. Not all of us are Marlon Brando, so let’s just stick to
crisp white shirts. Try to see that they are specially tailored for a
dinner jacket, i.e. a stiff front with black or enamelled buttons.
Shirt collars must match with jacket collars, so the general rule
is if you’ve got slim lapels, go in for small shirt-collars and if they’re
broad lapels opt for more high-collared shirts.
■ Tux buttons are cloth-covered and not your garden variety plastic
kinds... always make a note of this.
■ Cummerbunds were last spotted on an octogenarian server at
Brittania restaurant. Don’t go in for this if you feel you can’t carry it
off or have a mid-riff that knocks things over without you knowing.
The extra cloth only adds to one’s girth.
■ Try, for the love of God, to get your hands on a bow-tie that has
to be tied by hand and not a clip-on. There are many videos on
YouTube that will show you exactly how to get your bow-tie sorted
before heading out and without much stress. If you’re not a pimp,
opt for a plain black bow-tie. Experiment with the material, velvet
vs silk.
■ The shoes have to be shiny, think patent leather and with laces.
Slip-on velour loafers work as well, but give a very gambling-inMonaco feel. You choose. Sports shoes and keds on a tux are for
Justin Bieber and rappers who have more gold in their mouths than
a return flight from Dubai.
6 RAYMOND TREND REPORT
TRENDING NOW
Slim fitted
Double-breasted and
single-buttoned
Velour, smoking jackets
Subtly textured jackets
Coloured tuxedos
Oversized floppy bow-ties
NEVER-EVER!
Ranveer Singh in a paisley
tuxedo – This only works if you
are a Bollywood actor
Pharrell Williams and Helen
Lasichanh can afford to dress
up like this, not you
Kevin Spacey looks very un-like
his character from House of
Cards, Francis Underwood in
a blue tuxeo (top), Douglas
Booth dons a shawl-collared,
single buttoned DJ (above).
Andy Garica, Daniel Craig and
Amitabh Bachchan show us the
way to go (opposite page)
RAYMOND TREND REPORT 7
SUITS
T
he Indian gent has been a lot
like Alice in Wonderland when
it comes to suits. We’ve seen all
sorts of faux pas where putting on
a suit, which has whether we like
it or not, become a staple of our
formalwear diet. Polyesters and
itchy fabrics rule the roost when
you see the general populace,
but now it’s time to evolve and
go in for revolutionary fabrics like
cool wool, linen, silk for the good
occasions... things that work for
people in the West don’t always
work for our climate here, and that
goes for fashions and fits as well.
Harvey Specter, Louis Litt
and Mike Ross from Suits
are some of the trendiest
gents out there right now
(above, right), Prince
Michael of Kent has always
been the poster-child of
sartorial dressing (right)
WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT
■ Make sure your suit jacket ends right
where your derriere stops and your thighs
begin. This is a rule for most jackets.
■ It’s all in the fit, so a jacket’s shoulders,
sleeves and chest all need to seamlessly hug
the contours of your body without creasing
(the mark of a tight suit). Unless you’re built
like Jabba the Hutt, in which case consult
your tailor to find a fit that suits your
body best.
■ A jacket’s sleeves must be at
least a half inch shorter than the
cuff of your shirt. Most Indian
men get this wrong and end up
with longer sleeves. No need
to fret though, a tailor can alter
this. He’ll make a face and throw
a fit, but it’s possible... slip him
a hundred.
■ When you’re wearing a suit
to a formal evening, you can
play around with your tie-pocket
square combo if you safely
gauge the event you’re at. A
plain tie can never be paired
with a printed pocket-square, it’s
always the other way around.
■ Lapel pins are all the rage
abroad, but remember
they have to be small
and discreet, maybe
a little funky to add character to a suit.
■ Never over-accessorise a suit, so if you’re
wearing a tie-pin don’t opt for a collar pin
(something that’s slowly making a comeback) or
a lapel pin. Think less is more here.
■ There’s a general agreement in the West that
black suits are reserved for funerals, weddings
and Bar Mitzvahs, but in India we gents can’t get
enough of them. Try a little to venture out, it won’t
hurt... think blues, browns and a whole pantone
card full of greys.
■ We don’t really need to say this, but please
match all the leather on your body... black shoes
go with a black belt and a black leather strapped
watch, the same rule applies for browns. Don’t
mix and match here.
■ If you’ve chosen to not put on a tie and leave
your collar open, for the love of Christ don’t be
sporting a white undershirt that’s peeking out at
your neck. Go invest in some v-neck shirts or wifebeaters. If you’re opening more than your first
button, make sure you’re well groomed enough
to carry off the nonchalant, two button undone
look... nobody wants to see a tourism ad for the
Amazon on display.
■ Americans wear suits differently from the
British, or the rest of Europe for that matter. When
it comes to the Yanks, their cutting edge suit styles
are all about slim ties and slim suits, while the
Brits prefer the more traditional pin-striped, fitted
suits, with their broad ties. Choose a look that
matches you best, and stick to it, no one likes a
flip flopper.
IMRAN
KHAN
GETS IT
RIGHT
EVERY TIME
Sporting all the
trendy looks –
Double-breasted,
A velour suit that’s
not OTT or gauche
(who’d have
thought!) and a
deconstructed
jacket
TRENDING NOW
Fitted suits
Un-pleated trousers that end
at the ankle
Gingham printed shirts with
solid suits
Fitted double-breasted suits
Striped and checked suits
Unlined, deconstructed suits
for semi-formal events
NEVER-EVER!
Bernie Mac, God rest his soul, was
one of the best comedians, but his
suits with their bad lapels and worse
fits did him no good
Even the President of America can
once in a while go horribly wrong.
Obama can’t pull off a beige suit
at the White House press room of
all places especially! Those shades
are for garden tea parties in the day
time... be event appropriate
RAYMOND TREND REPORT 9
BANDHGALAS
B
andhgalas have slowly come to replace
the suit and tuxedo for many occasions.
Yes they have a traditional, patriotic feel
to them and make for a great alternative
if you don’t want to go in the direction of
the suit, but make sure you get them right. A
bandhgala for a formal event is very different
from the ones a bridegroom would wear at
his wedding, so ditch the jacquards and
embroidered doozies for when you’re tying
the knot, instead opt for classic elegance, it
never fails!
■ Fit, again has to be cinched at the waist
and not boxy like Natwar Singh’s jackets.
■ A Nehru collar is fine, but remember not
to close the top. Leave it open and breathe
a little. An easier alternative is a Chinese
collar that allows your neck to be freer, it’s
also trendier.
■ You can wear a shirt inside, like Sachin
did recently, but leave it's collar open. An
ideal shirt for a bandhgala would be a
collar-less shirt.
■ If it’s a black bandhgala you’re
donning, make sure you pair it
with white trousers, and viceversa for a white bandhgala.
Never wear white trousers
with a white bandhgala; that
just looks wrong! You can
however do this for black,
just make sure the trousers
are fitted and not bulky.
■ If you’re going in for
Jodhpuri pants (the one’s that
flair at the hips and taper at
the calves), make sure you
keep the fabric tight at your
calves and your flair at the hips
subtle. There’s no need to look
like a hot air balloon that's
ready for lift-off.
■ Buttons here should not be the
plasticky kind... they exemplify
the India diplomat with a bad
tailor. Splurge on gold or faux gold
buttons. Silver and enamel work here
too. If you don’t want to go down
that route ask your tailor to design
the jacket in such a way that an
additional flap covers your buttons. It
gives an illusion of slimming that does
wonders for your waistline.
10 RAYMOND TREND REPORT
The Nawab of Bollywood
wears a trendy navy
bandhgala (above), Rahul
Khanna is the example of
perfect Jodhpuri-dressing (left)
■ Now we usually
advise against any open
footwear when wearing
anything formal, but
if you really want to
be patriotic and want
that to translate to your
footwear as well, go in
for a pair of leather jootis
that match your ensemble.
Velvet loafers or plain black
leather shoes work here too.
If they’re slip-ons you finally
go for, can the socks, it gives
an
Italian-gent-in-Rajasthan
look that’s all the rage at
the moment.
■ A bandhgala is generally
pretty understated so glam up
the whole thing with a loud
pocket square. Think flowery
and bright, something that ups the
drama a bit.
TRENDING
NOW
Chinese collars
Velvet bandhgalas
Jewelled buttons
Slim fitted Jodhpuri
trousers
NEVEREVER!
NATWAR SINGH
We rest our
case... closed
collar, plastic
buttons and a
fit that would
make Sir Pratap
(the chap who
invented the
Jodhpuri) turn in
his grave
PHOTO: DABOO RATNANI
WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT
PHOTO: ROHAN SHRESTHA
Arjun Kapoor affirms the fact
that the bandhgala is catching
on as the season's most coveted
trend in evening wear
RAYMOND TREND REPORT 11
WORK WEAR
T
he office is where we do business, where we go to war, where battles are fought and
bodies left in the wake of victory. If you’ve had enough of the Sparta reference, take
this from it, the workplace is where you have to look your best. It’s the difference between
a promotion and a passover. That said, you have to figure out what atmosphere you work
in... the corporate world dresses differently from those in creative fields. While if you’re lucky
enough to be in the upper management of your company it really doesn’t matter where you
are, the formula is simple – as formal as you can be, you’re the boss after all!
CORPORATE OFFICEWEAR
The gents from Mad Men usually get
their officewear down pat (left), If the
UK has its Prince Michael of Kent, his
counterpart in Italy would have to be
Gianni Agnelli, seen below sporting
a classic woven tie
WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT
■ If you’re in the business of boardrooms and meetings with chaps who
inhabit the pages of Forbes’ rich list, its best that you are dressed to impress.
Think suits, but not the garish bold ones. Subtlety goes a long way.
■ You can always throw in personal touches through the choice of your tie,
cufflinks, tie-pins and socks. No shiny suits, stick to two-buttons with moderate
lapels (not too big, not too small).
■ In India, we generally ditch the pocket squares when it comes to
office-wear. But if you are a big fan of pocket art, make sure you
keep the tone down. Solid colours work with just about any
combination. Don’t go gung-ho on the folds, keep it simple
with either a plain folded one (like American TV presenters)
or just the normal shoved-without-a-care variety. Threepointed squares and others wonders are for formal events.
12 RAYMOND TREND REPORT
TRENDING NOW
Pin-striped suits
Two-buttoned and one-button
jackets
Slim, non-pleated trousers
Checked shirts
Slim ties
White collars and cuffs
Personalised cufflinks
Dressed entirely
in Raymond, the
model shows us
the ideal suit fit
Suit UP! Barney Stinson wears the
quintessential American office suit perfect for contemporary work places
■ Shirts, whether they are bold, striped or chequered need to be picked
keeping in mind your entire ensemble. Checks and stripes won’t work
if you’re wearing a pin-striped suit, so go in for solid colours. A white
collar and cuff always adds some sophistication to the look in case you
want to go a notch up.
■ French cuffs on your shirt are great to impress everyone. They are
tough to maintain and require cufflinks but are worth all the effort. Keep
the cufflinks professional, none of those nude ladies in silver, British
bulldogs or crossbones that are all the rage at the moment.
■ While you want to look trendy and updated even when it comes to
office wear, it’s important to note that you are going to be in this garb
for a long period of time. Always go in for a fit that’s comfortable,
yet current. Slims are in, but don’t pick a suit you intend to wear
to work that stifles you and demands that you stand poker-straight
like a model all day long. The same goes for your shirt, leave at
least a fingers breadth between your collar and your neck once it’s
buttoned... asphyxia is a silent killer.
■ Shoes need to be shiny and leather, the lace-up kinds. Brogues
and slightly pointed tips are in, while square-toed and the bulky
rectangular boxy ones are out and should be forgotten. If you
want to opt for slip-ons, please make sure they are formal enough
and well-maintained.
■ The colour of your tie speaks louder than the print on it, so make
sure you go in for something that’s just right. Silk wins hands down,
though textured knitted ties are also a good option if you want to
do something different. Contrast the tie to your shirt and never pick
the same colour for both. Big paisleys and iridescent ties are for
wedding singers and the most enthusiastic dancers at a baraat.
■ Go in for solid colours when it comes to your socks and never ever
pick up the printed ones or the kinds that have multi-coloured stripes
on them. Those are for your kids and can’t be worn past the age
of nine.
■ If you own the company or are the BOSS MAN, ignore everything
we’ve said above... you can wear anything your heart desires and
get away with it (check out Roger Sterling from Mad Men).
Luca Rubinacci
NEVER-EVER!
BORIS JOHNSON
He may be the Mayor of London
but, dressing well isn’t one of his
strong suits (pun intended). It’s all
in the fit Boris!
RAYMOND TREND REPORT 13
CASUAL OFFICEWEAR
WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT
■ No jeans! You might be working in the most
liberal office, but unless you are a fashion
photographer, a design-genius or some artyfarty type, you are not allowed to wear denims
to work. We don’t care what Friday-dressing
rules you have stuck in your head, jeans are for
lunches on the weekends and for trips to the mall
with family – not allowed at work. And if you still
insist on putting them on, just make sure they’re
dark – black or dark blue.
■ The same goes for T-shirts! You have got
to be out of your mind if you think you can
wear a T-shirt to work. This is where you
earn your bread, not the beach and not your
bedroom. Desi gents need to let this one go,
even if they think they look like the coolest
thing since the iPhone. If you really abhor full-
Nacho Figueras shows how to do casual officewear with elan
14 RAYMOND TREND REPORT
TRENDING NOW
Casual fits
Woven belts
Sock-less loafers or moccasins
Bold striped shirts
sleeved shirts and are still addicted to T-shirts, go
in for a compromise, the Polo shirt is acceptable in
most circumstances.
■ A shirt and trouser or chinos are acceptable to the
office. Since you’re not in a corporate workspace,
playing around with stripes, coloured trousers and
semi-formals is your prerogative, something your
better paid counterparts in the boardrooms can’t
afford. So enjoy the perk and experiment a little... a
‘little,’ we repeat.
■ You’ve got rid of the jacket and tie, but that
doesn’t mean you drop all formalities. The trick to
non-corporate dressing is to throw in one item of
formalwear. A crisp white shirt with casual beige
chinos, a black polo shirt with dark brown formal
trousers... you get the gist. Think polo players being
formal and lunch at a Hamptons club if you’re still
confused.
■ You don’t need to be in lace-ups all the time now.
Live a little and invest in a pair of loafers or slip-ons...
moccasins, suede and even driving shoes can be
opted for. Just make sure you splurge on this buy. A
cheap pair of shoes can be recognised a mile away.
■ This is India, so you can basically wear linen all
year round. If in doubt about the fabrics you can
don, just make a mental note that they must be light
and airy... the slightest hint of polyester and viscose
can give even the most strong deodorant a run for
its money.
RAYMOND TREND REPORT 15
CASUAL WEAR
T
his is where you truly express yourself sans
formality. Casual wear for men in India has
come a long way from the clichéd jeans and
T-shirt combo. Today we’re spoilt for choice
with umpteen options out there, so make the
most of them and learn how to accept trends
beyond the cookie-cutter moulds. It really is
impossible to list every single trend in casual
wear for men, so here are a few we thought
work well for you in our desi context.
WHAT's IN & WHAT's OUT
■ There’s not much that isn’t allowed when
it comes to casual wear for men, but it’s still
important to know the sell-by-date of your
clothes. Jeans don’t last decades, contrary to
popular belief. They fade, they start to fray at
the edges and the style of their cut goes out of
fashion every few years. Donate them when
needed to those less fortunate.
■ The same goes for tees and polos. Make
sure to do away with them once they’ve had
a few too many tumbles in the washer. Just
because you don’t have to make an effort
when being casual doesn’t mean you don’t
get the fit right. Always go in for trousers,
chinos and denims that fit well.
■ Cuffs must end a little below the ankle
and right before your shoe starts... you can
go shorter, given the current trend, but longer
is a big faux pas and looks plain shabby.
Don’t fold the bottoms of your pants, get them
altered instead. When they bunch up near the
feet, it can make even the most style-forward
TRENDS
■ Bohemian-chic
The trends caught on pretty quickly all
over the place... Beiber wears chambray
pants (evolved from the harem pants seen
on Ranveer here) almost everywhere he
goes. The trick to this look is to
not let yourself look like a time
transported hippie from the 60s
with dreadlocks on your head
and ganja in your pockets,
but to balance it out with a
little bit of civilisation, like Mr
Singh here has done
with aplomb. We
forgive him for his
paisley tuxedo...
■ Stylish Grunge
Becks is usually pretty
cutting edge with his
fashion and is one man
who knows how to keep it
current when it comes to formalwear. On his days
off though, David Beckham usually goes in for
an edgy grunge look from his wardrobe...
think jeans, t-shirts and flannels, with Becks’
signature touches of ‘poshness’ (yes we
meant for that reference to be there).
Designer white keds and leather
wrist bands with trinkets are
very ‘in’ at the moment.
16 RAYMOND TREND REPORT
gent look like a schlob.
■ Popping the collars of your shirt is only
allowed when you’re drunk and in Ibiza.
No self-respecting gent should do this unless
you’re a kin of Mohammed Azharuddin or a
rising Hindi soapstar.
■ Keep those keds clean, it takes only a few
minutes of your day, a little soap water and
an old rag will get rid of even the nastiest of
stains, or at least better it.
■ Casual wear doesn’t mean shabby-wear...
you can bump into anyone, think boss at the
mall, that girl you’ve been trying to impress
all those months at a Sunday lunch. Always
be prepared and give a miss to those low
hanging jeans and baggy contraptions, Dr
Dre’s school of dressing is ‘out.’
■ Preppy
Scott Disick could be the poster
child for preppy dressing for men.
The Eastern seaboard trend, with
its polo shirts and sailor stripes
usually depicts a life of nonchalant
affluence. Think suede driving
shoes and loafers and tortoiseshell
sunglasses while sipping on
champagne at brunch.
■ Tee-totaler
Zac Efron does the T-shirt and denim combo proud. The important thing to remember
here is that you have to be lean enough to carry off a T-shirt... no one likes to see
bulges on display and the tee is the most unforgiving piece of clothing a fat man
can wear. Go in for coloured denims and chuck T-shirts after they’ve been used and
abused. They make for excellent nightwear.
NEVER-EVER!
Yo Yo Honey Singh - This outfit
doesn't deserve a comment from
us. But you must see it so you know
never to commit such a crime....
Ed Westwick was a fashion
God, till the day he decided to
put this shirt on and show the
world this massive display of
hevage... now he's just another
mortal like anyone else
RAYMOND TREND REPORT 17
Varun Dhawan gets it
right when he puts on
a pair of dark, fitted
denims with a printed
shirt, but gets it so wrong
with his torn jeans, that
make him look shorter,
thanks to a tucked-out
shirt. We don't like
the tiny keds either...
shabby!
Ranbir Kapoor got it
right with this dark
pullover blazer and
jeans, but his leather
bomber jacket and
shiny trousers clashed
to make him look more
like a character from
Donny Brasco

THE
GOOD
AND
THE
BAD



H
ere are moments
when
these
usually
sartorially
gifted gents got it
right, and some
where they lost the
plot and got it wrong
Abhay Deol does the
formal-casual look justice
with this blue blazer and
denim combo, but gets it
awfully wrong with his
white tee and denim look,
thanks only due to his little
hat... an accessory can
destroy everything gents!


18 RAYMOND TREND REPORT
Siddharth Malhotra looks
chic in this white jumper
and jeans get-up but looks
equally shabby in the aged
tee and shoddy keds


ACCESSORIES
WHAT’S AU COURANT
BOW-TIES – The big, floppy variety
are very fashionable right now for
evening dressing, though if you are
going in for a small-collared shirt a
smaller bow-tie will have to do. Just
make sure you don’t go in for the really
slim bow-tie that looked good only on
the gents from the 50s. If you’re a
preppy dresser, coloured bow-ties can
add oomph to your look... just make
sure you are dandy enough to carry
them off. Please, please go in for the
tie-yourself bow-tie, it makes a huge
difference and surpasses any clipon. The internet is full of some
excellent videos on how to
tie one, if you have doubts
please use this diagram
we’ve got here, it’s not
rocket-science.
THE BOW TIE
RAYMOND TREND REPORT 19
ACCESSORIES
TIES – Slim ties are what’s au
courant now and broad ties
are considered passé. That
said, don’t pick up a tie that’s
ribbon thin and looks like a
shoe-string hanging from your
collar. Stripes and subtle prints
(classics) are perennials but
paisleys here can work as well,
in the right context of the event
or workplace. Learn how to tie
a tie properly and never shove
the second tail into your shirt or
fold it, everyone can make out
you’ve been lazy. A tie should
end right about where your
navel sits, anything longer or
shorter is a no-no.
CUFFLINKS – Jewelled cufflinks are for big,
fancy events, don’t go in for these for everyday
wear. You might want to have something that’s
funky and stylish when it comes to your cuffs,
but keep them neutral and subtle for work
wear and pull out all the punches when not
in a professional environment. Tateossian and
Dunhill have some great ones that can impress
even the most erudite fashion scholar.
20 RAYMOND TREND REPORT
BELTS – Monogrammed belts for men
were a big thing a year back, but now
they’re as good as dead. Woven leather
or cloth, simple, plain belts are the way
to go. Even if you’re after designer crafted
and high-quality opt for the more subdued
versions that are practical and not
eye-catching. The belt divides
your body into two, and for most
there’s no real reason for this line
of control to be the first thing that
people notice. Striped polo belts
work for casual wear well.
SOCKS – Socks for men are usually low
on our priority list of things to pay attention
to. They’re those things you put on your
feet and take off after a hard day’s work
and chuck in the laundry basket. But to the
discerning eye, the colour of your socks,
their make, their quality can all be tell-tale
signs of your personality. Never match
your socks to your suit. If you’re going
formal always make sure they’re at least
two shades darker than what you’ve got
on, and if you’re casual or a rule breaker,
go in for colours. Enzo Ferrari loved his
red socks, which he’d put on with a pair
of black slacks and a plain white shirt.
Go for bold colours, and if you’re really
experimental wear unmatched socks which
are all the trend at the moment. Polka dots
are OK, but other graphic prints are out.
With loafers that breathe well, just chuck
the socks, that’s how the Italian uomos
do it.
LAPEL-PINS – Lapel pins
are the new tie-pins. They add
character to any suit jacket and
can be mixed and matched
with just about any look. They’re
also a definite accessory to take
your entire ensemble up a notch.
Obama wears the US flag on
his lapel and Tom Ford prefers
what’s called a boutonniere,
which is French-snob for highly
expensive hand-crafted couture
lapel-pin. You take your pick, and
remember to go to town when it
comes to choosing a pin, they get
noticed immediately and make for
great conversation starters with
the ladies.
RAYMOND TREND REPORT 21
COLOURS OF THE SEASON
RED
Burgundy and Red Very in at the moment,
if Adrien Brody, Robert
Pattinson and Kellan Lutz's
red-carpet appearances
are to be taken into
consideration. A red jacket
for day wear works, but
sans red trousers
22 RAYMOND TREND REPORT
GREY
Light and Steel
Grey - A fashion
perennial for men's
fashion, greys are
in this season but in
different hues, not
your run-off-the-mill
ash grey
RAYMOND TREND REPORT 23