FALL 2005 - International Association of Canine Professionals

Volume 6
Issue 3
Autumn 2005
1
SAFEHANDS IS THE OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF THE
SafeHands Journal
INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF CANINE
PROFESSIONALS
A NON-PROFIT
ORGANIZATION
Newsletter Staff Editor
Assistant Editor
Pat Trichter-Deeley
Vivian Bregman
Martin Deeley
Publisher
Martin Deeley
The editors reserve the right to refuse any advertising or any
article or letter submitted for publication. Copy subject for
grammar/length.
Legal Notices
The International Association of Canine Professionals Journal
Safehands is intended as an education and communication
vehicle for fostering learning, cooperation, exchange of
information, and networking across the canine professions.
Safehands is published Quarterly. The IACP does not assume
any legal responsibilities for published articles. The views
expressed are those of the authors and do not necessarily
express the views of the IACP, its officers or editorial staff.
Reprint Permission/Submissions
Copyright 2005 IACP. All rights reserved. No items may be
reprinted without the written permission of IACP and authors.
Members should mail requests to the Journal Editor. Original
letters/articles may be submitted to the Editor for
consideration.
Advertising
Per issue rate:
Business Cards $45.00, 1/4 page $350.00,
1/2 page $450.00, Full page $750.00
Send black and white camera ready copy together with check
made out to IACP to
IACP-SafeHands Journal
P.O.Box 560156,
Montverde, FL 34756-0156
Deadlines
Feb1: May 1: Aug 1: Nov 10
IACP Membership/Journal Information
International Association of Canine Professionals
P.O.Box 560156
Monteverde, FL 34756-0156
(877) THE-IACP or (407) 469 - 2008 Fax (407) 469 - 7127
www.dogpro.org
OUR MISSION STATEMENT
The INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF CANINE PROFESSIONALS is an
organization established to maintain the highest standards of professional and business practice
among canine professionals. Its aim is to provide support and representation for all professional
occupations involved with any aspect of canine management, health, training and husbandry.
The INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF CANINE PROFESSIONALS’ commitment is
to develop professional recognition, communication, education, understanding and co-operation
across the wide diversity of canine expertise and knowledge.
For Those Dedicated to the Well Being of
Dogs
How to Join IACP
PROFESSIONAL MEMBER - At least 5 years experience as a canine
professional. Can vote on IACP issues and use IACP name and logo on business
materials.
ASSOCIATE MEMBER - Less than 5 years experience as a canine professional
but practicing as a professional. Can use the IACP name and logo on business
materials. May not vote.
AFFILIATE MEMBER - An active interest in a career as a canine professional
but lacking the experience to be an Associate or Professional member, i.e.,
apprentices, students of canine professions, trainees, volunteers, part-time, and
devotees of canine-related occupations.
Cannot use the IACP name or logo for business purposes and may not vote.
Annual Fees:
Professional $ 75.00; Associate $50.00; Affiliate $35.00
An additional $25 fee applies for initial processing costs of Professional & Associate members only.
Newsletter Subscription - available to non-members $25.00
Officers and Directors
President &
Executive Director
Martin Deeley
Vice President
Cyndy Douan
Secretary
Gina Lynn Hayes
Tresurer
Pat Trichter
Directors:
George Cockrell; Martin Deeley; Cyndy Douan; Gina Lynn
Hayes; Robin MacFarlane; Pat Trichter, Bob Jervis, Kris
Butler, Babette Haggerty, Chad Mackin
IACP Hall of Fame
Frank Inn; Vicki Hearne; Carol Lea Benjamin;
Winifred Gibson Strickland; Lois Meistrell; Edi Munneke.
Weatherwax Brothers; Dr. Ian Dunbar
Honorary Members
Brian Kilcommons; Bash Dibra; Gary Wilkes
Benefits:
All IACP members receive our SafeHands Journal, have access to our email list,
seminars, educational materials, business support materials, events and activity
calendars, regional-group participation, and our Certification Programs.
Discounts for sponsor services are available to members.
APPLICATIONS AND RENEWALS CAN NOW BE PAID THROUGH
MASTERCARD, VISA & AMEX
International Association of Canine Professionals
P.O. Box 560156
Monteverde, FL 34756-0156
Phone (877) THE –IACP or (407) 469 - 2008 Fax (407) 469 - 7127
e-mail: IACP@mindspring.com
www.dogpro.org
2
IN THIS ISSUE
Page
From The President ………………………………………………………………...….….4
How Do You Do? ..Kate Nicoll MSW, LCSW ……………………………..…….…….....5
Book Review: My Dog Pulls ………………………………………………………...…....7
Seminar Review: Obedience, Agility and Freestyle ……………………………….…....7
Man on a Mission … Marc Goldberg ………………………………………………..…....8
Review DVD: Avoiding Liability ………………………………………………….….…10
Egos Don’t Belong In Dog Training … Elizabeth Beverly ……………………………..12
Switching Exercises … Julie Winkleman ………………………………………………..14
The Management and Training Equation… Mary Mazzeri …………………………...16
Today I Changed the World … Chad Mackin …………………………………...……..17
Bringing Home Baby … Dawn Geremia ………………………………………….....….18
Dog Training is a People Business … Martin Deeley ……………………………...…...22
SAFEHANDS JOURNAL IS PROUDLY
SPONSORED BY
PLEASE SHOW YOUR SUPPORT FOR ALL OF OUR CORPORATE
MEMBERS AND SPONSORS AS THEY CHAMPION AND GIVE FULL
BACKING TO YOUR ASSOCIATION
Discounts given to IACP Members on new books
To Obtain Discount enter member number in Password Box
www.4mdogbooks.com 1-800-487-9867
info@4mdogbooks.com
Inquire about old and used books.
3
FROM THE PRESIDENT
The devastation and despair that is emerging in these weeks
following hurricane Katrina leads us all to think about what
we can do to help. It is at times like these that we realize how
much we need one another and how much even the smallest
kindnesses are appreciated.
Donations and assistance in many forms are needed to help
our fellow countrymen and the animals caught up in the midst
of this catastrophe. Already IACP Members are assisting
evacuees and their dogs, providing temporary homes and facilities for their welfare. As requests for assistance come in
we ask you once more to dig deep into your experience and
contacts and support the efforts in any way you can. Too often other issues arise in the media which
pushes this crisis to the back pages. This national emergency and its repercussions will be with us
for years ahead.
We have already experienced how big our member’s hearts are with the NYC World Trade Center
tragedy and the donations to war dogs in Iraq, and now we, the Board of Directors for the IACP,
ask you to reach out again. This is a critical time for all of us to stand together and hold out our
hand to our fellow professionals and canine companions. Please consider ways in which you and
we, can help.
Our conference will be held next March in Round Rock, Texas. As a small gesture we are sending
a personal invitation to attend the IACP Conference, for all members of IACP, APDT and NADOI
who live in New Orleans, Biloxi, Bay St Louis and devastated areas. We pray that by next March
they will be ready for a well deserved short break with fellow professionals – attendance at this
conference for these members will be complimentary.
In this big world of dogs by working together we can do much to assist the people, animals and our
fellow professionals caught in this national disaster.
On Behalf of the IACP
Martin Deeley
President IACP
4
How Do You Do?
and other How-To’s in Social Communication
By Kate Nicoll, MSW, LCSW
Dogs understand the power of invitation. The well-known play
bow is an example of one way dogs invite other individuals to
make connection. Recent research by Marc Bekoff has shown
that the play of dogs is a complex social interaction, demonstrated through canine body language (Time, July 11, 2005).
The ways in which humans interact with each other, when
teaching dog training classes or during therapeutic visits, are
also complex series of social interactions. The lessons we can
learn from dogs start with the invitation to a conversation.
room full of chaos with dogs and people meeting for the
first time needs a strong, positive voice of leadership.
The power of nonverbal communication is paramount. For
example, looming over someone who is in a wheelchair or
bed can seem intimidating to the other person. Sitting down
in a chair or squatting, so you are eye-to-eye with the other
person, is more relaxed and conveys a greater sense of wanting to connect. Even in brief social interchanges, we give
eye contact and receive a handshake as part of a welcome.
The power of the “look” command is a tool to utilize not
only in dog training, but also in our social interactions
(Nicoll, 2005). When we truly “look” at someone, they can
feel our concern, our wish for attachment and our hope to
helpful. In addition, how we hold our body, arms open and
relaxed, gives the message of wanting to receive information
and give back our knowledge and support.
In our interactions with people, it is important to consider how
we invite the conversation to begin. For example, if we start a
dog training class with dog-related humor, will everyone understand the joke? On a therapeutic visit, might we accidentally
barge lightheartedly into the room after bad news was just
shared?
Everything we do can be seen within a social context and the
invitation to connect is an important first step. In The Etiquette
of Illness (2004), Susan Halpern, a social worker, reminds us of
the need for quiet listening and observation. Oftentimes, in the
beginning, during an invitation to conversation, in our nervousness, we forget to observe the setting, to read nonverbal communication and reflect on the sensory experiences in the room.
Dog trainers, being masters of understanding canine body language, can apply these same skills of observation to people
during social interactions.
The power of reciprocity
First words do have an impact and first impressions do matter.
We can enhance our interactions with people by remembering a
few simple tricks. Scan the entire physical and social environment before jumping into a conversation. Consider these basic
questions. What is the noise level in the room? What does the
nonverbal body language of the person convey? Does the person seem defensive, scared, open, or timid? Is your invitation to
connect in competition with anything else, like other dog training at the facility or a recreational therapy activity in a nursing
home? Are you and your therapy dog visiting at a bad time of
the day, such as after lunch or at a mealtime? In Therapy Dogs
Today, Kris Butler (2004) describes nicely the importance of
social proximity and space, and their impact on interactions.
Awareness of the social environment is paramount to enhancing
the relationship.
Voice matters. Our voices set the tone of any conversation. In
a study of human-human communication, Dr. Roger Abrantes
found that in conversations, the vocal component accounted for
38 percent of the meaning in conversation (Smith, 2004). Sarcasm, even in joking, has no place in social interactions. A lilting, questioning, overly supportive voice can seem patronizing.
Someone lying quietly in bed deserves a quiet entrance. A
5
Relationships are all about give and take within a connection. Different cultures have different styles of inviting a
conversation; however, no matter the custom, it is about
creating reciprocity and connection. In our roles of helping
people, whether as a dog trainer or in a therapy dog visit, we
want to create a supportive atmosphere. This cooperation
can be established through openness of mind, listening, mirroring and empathy.
Once a connection has been made, our work can begin.
“Work” can last ten minutes during a therapy visit, or an
hour a week in dog training – or for a lifetime. Albert Einstein said, “Only a life lived for others is a life worth while.”
When we share our lives helping others – training them with
their dogs or visiting them with our therapy dogs – we enter
into a complex relationship of sharing.
Often, animals bring up intense emotional experiences or
memories for people. These stories must be handled with
high regard for confidentiality. Clinical professions have
their own code of ethics for handling confidentiality; however, the premise is the same for any professional person.
That which is shared in confidence should remain in confidence. The sharing of personal stories is a highly intimate
experience. In being the receiver of personal stories, it is
essential to remember that this is not water cooler gossip.
During interactions with our therapy dogs and our clients’
dogs, private experiences may be brought up. For example,
one woman may have difficulty setting boundaries with her
dog and, over the course of a class, she might share that she
Continued page 6
How Do You Do?—Cont’d
listen in this environment right now. Let’s make a 15 minute
appointment to discuss this after class.” As in dog training,
limits are not bad; they are necessary elements to help shape
social behavior.
was sexually abused. Stories of pain, loss, and trauma must be
honored by keeping them in confidence. The exceptions to this
include someone who seems at high risk to injure themselves or
others and if there is evidence of abuse or neglect of a child,
mentally challenged adult, or an elder. In these situations, it is
essential to seek the expertise of a clinical professional.
It is important to realize that in social communication the
power of past experiences, worries, and unrealistic hopes often
color our interactions. Remember, the dog is almost always a
therapeutic partner, and the animal’s presence can aid you in
difficult moments and in endings. Conversations can be
brought back to the “now” through interactions with the animal. Instructors might say, “Look how nicely he is sitting for
you,” during a dog training class, if the human partner is becoming anxious. “Feel how soft her fur is!” might redirect a
person during a therapeutic visit.
Validation, containment and transitions
Sad and painful life stories can cause us to feel uncomfortable
and feel compelled to “solve” or “minimize” the other person’s
experience. In these situations, it is usually best to let the person know that you appreciate their sharing with you in confidence and that you are hopeful that the interaction with you and
your dog will continue to be positive. It is also a good idea to
normalize the experience. Normalizing might sound like, “It is
not uncommon that interactions with our dogs bring up past
experiences.” This validates the reaction and allows the person
an opportunity to process his or her own emotions.
Mirroring is another useful tool to utilize in conversations. Mirroring can help if you begin to feel overwhelmed with the emotional content of the conversation shared with you. If someone
appears sad and tearful and states that they are upset, you can
mirror back with a supportive response such as “That must have
been upsetting to you.” This is not simply spouting back words
at someone; it is an empathic connection of understanding. In
addition, it can allow your brain an opportunity to think, if you
feel stuck in how to continue the conversation. Many people
who have lived through loss, grief, or trauma have not been
validated and mirroring allows support to be given back with
affirmation.
There does not always need to be an answer to every statement.
A nod of the head, a touch of a hand, silence, or to “wait” provides a quiet space for emotions to be shared.
The human-animal bond offers people in human service and
canine related professions a powerful tool that provides validation, containment, and healing. We can apply our daily practice
of dog commands, to “look” and to “wait” in our social interactions. These commands can often serve as active metaphors, as
well as fun and interactive tools to build our social skills. The
power of voice, eye contact, and body language are all tools of
good dog training, as well as the foundation of social skills
building. Our goal should be to encourage its benefits through
clear voice, empathy, and an astute awareness of the power of
nonverbal communication.
_____________
References:
Butler, Kris. (2004). Therapy Dogs Today: Their Gifts, Our
Obligations. Funpuddle Publishing Associates.
Gladwell, Malcolm. (2005). Blink: The Power of Thinking
without Thinking. Little Brown and Co.
It is not necessary for us or our dogs to absorb all the painful
emotions on therapeutic visits and/or during dog training. Life
happens outside of these experiences and many people live with
complicated circumstances that cannot be solved, contained, or
healed in our short interactions. It is possible to receive moments of healing, but not be healed. Endings can be difficult. In
helping others through the power of the human-animal bond,
we want to be successful and feel that our interactions matter.
Not every conversation can end neatly with problems solved.
If conversations go on for too long or seem overwhelming, it is
perfectly okay to set limits and end the conversation. Often we
actually do a disservice to someone if we let them unravel about
negative past experiences. Examples of this “containment”
might sound like:
• “We can talk more about this at our next visit.”
• “It might be too difficult to discuss this all right now.”
• “I do care about what you are saying, but cannot truly
6
Halpern, Susan. (2004) The Etiquette of Illness: What to Say
When You Can’t Find the Words. Bloomsbury USA.
Lemonick, Michael. “Honor Among Beasts.” Time: July 11,
2005.
Nicoll, Kate (2005). Soul Friends: Finding Healing with Animals. Dogear Publishing.
Smith, Cheryl. (2004). The Rosetta Bone. Howell Book House.
______________
Kate Nicoll, MSW, LCSW is the founder of Soul Friends, Inc, a
nonprofit organization that provides programs that enhance
the healing benefits of the human-animal bond for at-risk children. She is a clinical social worker with more than 17 years
of experience. She is the author of Soul Friends: Finding Healing with Animals (2005), Dogear Publishing.
Web:
REVIEW OF TURID RUGAAS
Review of “Obedience, Agility, and
Freestyle”
MY DOG PULLS.
A workshop on DVD presented by
M. Christine Zink, DVM
WHAT DO I DO?
I was thrilled to see that
Turid had finally published
another educational training
manual! Her Calming Signals video was just the best
for teaching owners, trainers and other professionals
what dogs are really saying
and how to "hear" what
they are saying through
body language.
My Dog Pulls. What Do I
Do? _is such a simple well
formatted training manual.
It covers one of the most
problematic areas dog owners face on a daily basis.
The photos are comprehensive and very easy to understand even for a first time dog owner. Using
her gentle method of training will provide safety for the dog and owner
as well as others who may come upon the walking duo!
I feel that Turid's greatest strength is her ability to read dogs
clearly and without difficulty and to teach that ability to others.
The only exception I could take to this manual is that Turid denounced certain collars as unsafe to use. Without expert professional training in using these collars, she could very well be correct. But the collars themselves are not unsafe, it's how they are
used by the uneducated. And with the proper expert training assistance, many of these collars have been used humanely and safely
for years.
It seems I am in constant search for ideas and insights into conditioning and maintaining the canine athlete.
Every since I began using Dr. Zink’s jumping training
techniques, I have wanted to attend one of her agility seminars. I’ve never been able to get that coordinated and that’s
been disappointing for me. I had heard through some of my
agility contacts that in part of Dr. Zink’s seminar, she
shows how to train a dog to longe off lead in a very large
circle marked by a few cones and using trained commands
to indicate gait (walk, trot, canter, stop, turn etc.) very
much like horses are longed as a part of their warm up and
gait training. I was fascinated with the idea of being able to
do conditioning with canine athletes in this manner because
it is a way to save my energy while the dogs get conditioned in very specific ways. I found that this seminar was
available through Tawzer Dog Videos so I ordered the set
of DVD’s.
Not only did I pick up the training gem I’d heard about, but
Dr. Zink packs in a ton of great knowledge into this weekend workshop that is so relevant for both the trainer who
works with any canine athlete and any canine enthusiast
who needs to develop an eye for physical issues with dogs
they may train, handle, treat, groom, rescue, foster, or
adopt out. Dr. Zink leads the group through assessing dogs’
general body structure and she leads a great discussion and
demonstration on front and rear angulation.
My Dog Pulls. What Do I Do? should be one of the books professionals should recommend for owners who have that excited pulling 4 legged machine!
Dr. Zink guides participants through the process of trying
to assess lameness and what might signal the source of pain
and injury. She shows examples of gait problems such as
crabbing and pacing. Dr. Zink gives a detailed step by step
approach to teaching dogs how to gait correctly. She shows
her approach to teaching dogs her foundation for jumping.
I was fascinated by her presentation of photos and videos
that illustrate some of the dangers and risks for injury that
canine athletes face in performance sports. Watching her
seminar is a great reminder to me that sometimes a failure
of the dog to perform correctly may not be a training issue,
and that I need to be constantly taking that into account as I
train for performance sports. There are more goodies I discovered in the workshop DVD’s, but rather than tell about
them all, I recommend that you check them out for yourself.
This training manual can be ordered through Dog Wise at
www. dogwise. com or by calling 1-800-776-2665.
Contact the Tawzers at 888-566-3003 or
www.TAWZERDOGVIDEOS.com .
She has taken a method which many trainers use and written an
easy to understand manual in normal language, without the need
for psychological terms which may be difficult for the layman to
understand or utilize. Turid has accomplished this in her own gentle effective style.
I had the pleasure of meeting the Tawzer’s at the IACP
Conference this year and they are great folks too!
Review by Gina Lyn Hayes - Secretary to the IACP BOD and
Director IACP.
Review by Cyndy Douan-Director of Education IACP
7
Man on a Mission
Marc Goldberg
their dogs evaluated and assisted. They deserve assistance.
Yet I was not interested in training any of them.
I turned down a few clients recently. That got me to thinking.
Why don’t I want to book every client who is ready to train
with me? I thought about it only for a moment, and then I had
the answer. All I had to do was remember my own mission
statement.
That is because after extensive conversation with each of
them, I believed that none of these dogs was going to experience more liberty and much less conflict. The owners of the
Dane would need a great deal of counseling to accept that
they must lead their dog, not follow her. Even after training,
I believed that this dog should receive very little liberty to
minimize the chance of an attack. She will need to be
trained, and then closely managed for life because her owners are likely to undo half her training. No liberty here.
Do you have a mission statement? This is a sentence that sums
up the core of your goals in very few words.
My mission statement is:
I train dogs so they may live lives filled with more liberty and
freedom from conflict.
The poor Shitzhu got purchased by a man who named her
with a curse, doesn’t understand her, and doesn’t care to.
Clearly, he bought the dog to keep the wife quietly accepting
his verbal abuse, or at least that was my sense of it. After
conversing about schedules, I was convinced that after
housebreaking, the dog would be left alone or crated longer
than is reasonable, and that they would not likely worry
about hiring a dog walker. The family of this dog will be
angry with her much of the time, regardless of what she
does. No freedom from conflict here.
Having a mission statement helps me focus on my goals because I can state them in just sixteen words. Therefore, I think
I’m able to do a better job with each dog I handle. I know why I
am training that dog. And I am more easily able to identify clients for whom I cannot meet those goals.
The several clients I turned down in the last two weeks had
situations that were each fairly different, one from the other.
Yet they all had one aspect in common. No matter what I could
do for them, their dog was unlikely to gain more liberty and
shed conflict.
The Neapolitan Mastiff sounded like a genetic time bomb to
me. The owners couldn’t even meet the dam because the
breeder could not handle her without her husband present.
Yet, this was the second time the clients had bolted to the
nearest litter to purchase this breed. And with zero dog experience no less. My advice was to run, not walk, back to the
breeder, get their money back, and to call me back when they
wanted to research puppy selection methods. I do not think
their flawed puppy will ever experience liberty or a harmonious home life.
Here are the situations I decided not to train for. First, was a
rescue Great Dane who had been showing dog and people aggression for two years. Her owners always made excuses for
her. Now she was seriously and constantly trying to attack the
female neighbor child. They make excuses for that too, but now
they are afraid.
Second was a Shitzhu who merely needed housebreaking and
some basic training. Her owner berated both his wife and the
dog while talking to me on the phone. The wife was clearly
listening. He referred to the dog, never by name, but only as
****head. He did all this with a constant stream of “jokes.” He
is a dentist; I shudder to imagine myself in his chair.
Because of my little sixteen word mission statement, I passed
on all three of these clients. In the same time frame, I accepted others which met my goals. I trained a dominant,
moving-toward-aggression Portuguese Water Dog female
who left her bad girl attitude behind and went home cooperative and affectionate. I booked a Soft Coated Wheaton who
needs housebreaking and off leash control. They can’t wait
to take him to the dog park. And I booked a dominant little
Bichon whose owner cried when describing how guilty she
feels for constantly being mad at her own dog.
Third was the owner of a female Neapolitan Mastiff puppy,
nine weeks of age. They had just had an adult intact male put
down for seriously mauling a person, and biting the owner.
They then ran out and bought the first puppy they could find,
again, without meeting the parents. Before the first Nea, they
had never owned any dog ever before. Their new female puppy
was snarling and attacking whenever they handled her closely.
Each of those dogs is going to earn more liberty from their
owners. And each will experience less conflict after training.
As far as I know, if you throw in love, shelter and some food,
you have the makings of a wonderful life…a proper life for a
dog.
All three of these dogs should be seen by a professional dog
trainer. All three of these dogs would benefit from training. All
three of these clients are taking some form of action to have
Cont’d page 11
8
23rd to 26th March 2006
Triple Crown Academy. Hutto, Texas
Speakers will include -
Cesar Milan
of the TV Series The Dog Whisperer
and
Wendy Volhard
Recognized and Respected Teacher, Trainer and
Author—throughout the whole dog world.
We only regret what we miss—DO NOT MISS THIS
Contact IACP Head Office NOW to Book your place.
iacpadmin@mindspring.com 407-469-2008 or 877-THE-IACP
9
REVIEW
Avoiding Liability when you train,
shelter, or adopt out.
Seminar and Essential Legal Documents.
By Attorney Kenneth Phillips
documents and outline, Ken has penned a
provision that canine professionals can add
to their contracts that the dog’s owner
agrees to pay if the trainer is bitten or otherwise injured; meaning that the owner
agrees to be held liable for his dog’s actions. Mr. Phillips throws in for good measure another provision where the owner
agrees to indemnify the trainer if the dog
causes any harm to anything or anybody
else while in the trainer’s care. In simpler
terms, the owner will pay all damages, fees,
etc. and assume all the trainer’s liability. I
can see this subject causing quite a stir
amongst canine professionals. I know it
will make for a great debate topic at IACP
regional gatherings and on the IACP SafeHands e-mail list! If clauses like this are
adopted, I wonder if it might make for a
safer environment for our work as it may
force a dog owner to more fully disclose
Ken Phillips
their dog’s bite history to trainers that are
There were a few parts of the seminar
hired. Perhaps if these clauses become
that I’d like to comment about as I
widespread enough, they will push dog owners to come to trainfound them to be topics I discuss with others when I talk
ing classes before their dog develops really serious aggression
about liability in this profession. I know I am not alone in
problems. I suppose that time will tell the story.
the thought that, even though I have good contracts, I worry
that it seems anyone can sue anybody for anything whenever
Finally, I need to say that I had some difficulty getting the DVD
they desire. Well, interestingly enough, Mr. Phillips gives
to play correctly. It would not play at all in three different DVD
reassurance during the seminar that this may not be quite so
players that I tried. I tried the DVD in my computer and, while I
true. He says that people hire attorneys when they want to
did get good audio, the video was only very slow moving frames.
sue; and that attorneys don’t generally take on cases that
I e-mailed the contact address at Ken Phillips’ website and less
they know they will lose. Ken believes that good contracts
than two business days later Ken contacted me personally by eprevent lawsuits because good lawyers see those contracts
mail. He was apologetic for the trouble I’d had and asked me to
and discourage potential plaintiffs out of moving forward
throw my copy away and that he would send me a new one. So, I
with suits they cannot win.
can at least assure you that if you have any difficulty, Ken will
take care of it for you.
The other key issue has to do with the topic of liability when
a trainer is bitten or injured by a dog. Ken Phillips may very
As for pricing, I bought the set in July when it was roughly halfwell change the nature of dog training if his resources bepriced. It sells now for $99.95. To be honest, I would pay that
come more popular among our community. Ken acknowlalone to get the contracts and the seminar outline. To obtain your
edges that, as a general rule with a few exceptions, laws
set go to www.dogbitelaw.com .
currently deem that canine professionals assume the risk of
being bitten when they take on a dog that they are working
with. That means that if a dog you are training bites you,
Review by Cyndy Douan –Director of Education IACP
that you must pay for your own injuries and expenses. The
Cyndy Douan has been training dogs professionally for 15 years and is
owner is not liable. In this seminar, and provided in the
Co-Founder, Director of Education, and Vice President of IACP.
This DVD and CD-ROM is a necessity
for the canine professional! Packed
with excellent legal advice, you will
find your head spinning with ideas for
re-vamping or creating paperwork to
protect you and your business from
many potential problems, not just the
problem of the biting dog. Ken Phillips
not only presents his information in
seminar format, but also gives a written outline of his seminar complete
with all the legal terminology that you
need to be familiar with when you put
together business contracts. Beyond
that, Ken offers his versions of various
key contracts and legal documents on
the CD-ROM that you can use in drafting your own with the help of your
attorney. These documents and contracts are very thorough.
10
BOOK NOW FOR THE IACP CONFERENCE
& AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT
Ceasar Milan : Wendy Volhard : Steve Frick : Jill Morstad :
Barbara DeGroodt : Stephen Joubert
23rd to 26th March 2006
407-469-2008
www.dogpro.org
Man on a Mission Cont’d
This does not mean that no one should train those dogs
I rejected. Far from it. Someone has to help those people as much as they can be helped. Perhaps one of you
has a mission statement that goes like this:
I train dogs to help keep them safely in their homes.
Or,
I train dogs because I enjoy a challenge and want to
make as much money as possible.
If you have a mission like that, then you may well
have accepted those other clients. Certainly they were
all at some risk, and the dynamics presented challenges as well as income opportunities.
Here’s the secret to my mission statement. It’s mine.
Not yours. And not the clients. Just mine. Once in a
while I really click with a client and I reveal it to them.
It’s not a state secret. It’s just that my mission statement makes it sound more like I am training for the
benefit of the dog than for the wellbeing of the human
paying my bill. I think it sounds that way because it is
that way. I like my owners too. But it’s their dogs I
love.
The author and his dog, Gus, in 1972.
It took me many more years to refine my skills. I’ll
never have another Gus to sharpen them on. But I
can give something back to this species I love. I
can help them be happier. That is my mission.
Do you have a mission?
My love affair with dogs began in 1969. On the home
page of my web site you can see a photograph of my
first dog. My dog Gus. Gus who won a High In Trial
with 199.5 in our first trial. Gus who got me into the
Philadelphia Dog Training Club before I hit puberty.
Gus who made me a dog trainer. But mostly, Gus was
the dog who showed me that I had some value, a hidden talent and he helped heal some scars inside me.
© 2005 by Marc Goldberg, All Rights Reserved.
Marc Goldberg is a professional member of
IACP. He trains dogs so they may enjoy liberty
and freedom from conflict.
www.ChicagoDogTrainer.com.
11
Egos Don’t Belong In Dog Training
Elizabeth Beverly
“I want to be a dog trainer because I love dogs.”
after he got his life under control. Much to my surprise, he did.
You know that’s what you said. That’s what we all said, at least
to some degree. I haven’t met a trainer yet that said, “I got into
dog training because I love people!” Ironic, isn’t it? Or perhaps
it’s just a rude awakening: Whether you conduct private lessons,
perform in-kennel training, teach group classes, dog sports, obedience, or just how to get the family pet to stop jumping on Aunt
Gertrude, you work with people.
Give people the benefit of the doubt. You know more about
dog training than they do, but you don’t know the circumstances of their lives. If you don’t earn their respect by being
respectful, it risks at best the client’s mindset, which you need
in your corner, at worst compliance, and ultimately the welfare
of the dog.
You help them, teach them, guide them, enlighten them, and
hopefully, you share their joy in those breakthrough moments
with their four-legged family member. You enter their lives with
the expertise and wisdom they expect and need. And in return,
do they always listen and comply? Ha! Are they sometimes
frustrating or even belligerent? You have no idea. Sometimes,
would you just rather take the dog home and train it yourself?
You’re reading my mind. But lest we forget (1) they asked for
our help, and (2) we are a paid service providers.
They really don’t know.
It’s the call you receive once a month – details might vary, but
it’s in the family. “My husband says this dog is gone by the
time we move if he doesn’t get some training. I just can’t do
that to my kids.” She went on to explain that the dog was
eliminating all over the house “still,” had chewed up and destroyed stuffed toys that “weren’t his,” was nipping the kids,
and wouldn’t “do anything.” Having heard the story before
and thus convinced this wasn’t the devil in a dog suit, I asked
the obvious – “How old is your dog?” “He’s ten weeks,” she
replied in a tone of severe disappointment.
Whether you’ve told the man in group class forty-seven times
how to hold the leash properly, or you’ve tried to explain to the
thrice returning in-kennel clients that behavior isn’t static, or you
can’t believe that the same woman insists on returning to the dog
park all the while consoling her dog as it shivers and won’t leave
the spot behind her feet, we’ve all had frustrating times in doing
nothing more than trying to help clients. But it doesn’t give us a
license to act omniscient or to be disrespectful; there’s a difference between being confident and egotistic.
As we become more advanced in our own wisdom, we often
forget that what is obvious to us is as foreign to most pet owners as the English language is to dogs. Dog owners have their
shortcomings as trainers; they’re people who own pets, not
proficient trainers. And yes, some choose the wrong dogs in
the first place, they have no idea that all wagging tails aren’t
happy, and they don’t seem to have any problem with saying
“sit” twelve times to get the response. But if they’re coming to
you, they at least want to try. There’s an element of humility in
asking for help. They aren’t supposed to know how to prevent
this or teach that; the fact that they don’t keeps us in business.
We should respect that.
How confident we are certainly has a direct influence on how a
client will react to us and, more importantly, on the extent to
which they’ll trust the cards we’re dealing. But there’s a line;
cross it and you might find yourself with at least one less client
and a tarnished reputation. More importantly, you’ve compromised the original goal (your reason for doing what you do and
their reason for calling you) – helping the dog.
Give the benefit of the doubt.
It’s sometimes hard not to be judgmental; it’s natural human behavior. A gentleman in a group obedience class consistently
asked the same questions, e-mailed for help on issues unrelated to
group class every week, and clearly wasn’t working with the dog.
(Sound familiar?) He called me one afternoon saying that he
wanted to drop out of class. My first thought was – well, you
know what my first thought was.
He then went on to explain why. Without revealing the personal
details, suffice it to say he had been going through a very rough
time emotionally and physically. Without asking for a cent of
reimbursement for the remaining classes (which his circumstances would’ve warranted), he simply thanked me for my help
and patience, and asked if he could start over in another class
Perception is reality.
Being a consultant also means attending to the specific needs
and wants of the client; it isn’t about what we think they
should fix. A former client thought it was cute that her dog
drank from the toilet (“He’s so creative!”) and adored the fact
that he woke her up in the middle of every night for outside run
around time (“I think he just gets bored with sleeping and likes
to see what’s happening outside.”). She once described in detail his need to be involved in the cooking process – “He’s so
sweet, he doesn’t want to be left out of family dinner time.”
After listening to the description of this nightly routine, as a
dog trainer I defined it as counter-surfing and stealing, but who
am I to burst this woman’s bubble?
Tempering ego is sometimes demonstrated just by listening.
We don’t have to interject our expertise everywhere. If the
canines and humans aren’t in danger and there’s not foreseeable detrimental fallout, smile and be happy that there are rosecolored glasses somewhere. That particular client’s dog had a
12
Cont’d Page 15
s
962
Available to Associate and Professional Members only
13
SWITCHING EXERCISES
By Julie Winkleman
There are many differences between humans and dogs, but
brain function is surprisingly similar between the species. In
both, the limbic system is the center for emotional responses
such as fear, joy and anger. The limbic area is positioned very
close to the brain stem and therefore sends signals to the body
very quickly. This can explain why limbic responses are so
“automatic,” “base,” or “primitive.” The cerebral cortex, located near the front of the brain, is the center of higher-order
learning and reasoned responses. This area of the brain controls
thoughtful reactions and problem solving. To break it down to
its most simplistic values: limbic = impulsive reactions / cerebral cortex = controlled responses.
Because of the manner in which these two important areas of
the brain work, they do not operate well together. In fact, these
areas work almost mutually exclusive of each other. During the
initial two-hour consultation with my aggression case clients I
frequently hear this lament – “If I am able to catch my dog
early enough before he launches into barking, lunging and
snapping at another dog (or human), I can sometimes get his
attention and keep him from reacting.” Many dogs that find
their way into my office have what seems to be a hair-trigger
response to the stimuli that elicits aggression for them. The
physiological reactions that we all have to stress initiate the
endocrine and central nervous system to release a chemical
reaction in the brain. Among other chemicals, adrenalin and
cortisol have a profound effect on the direction the dog’s behavior will take. If the handler is able to identify the early signs
of aggression, he or she can intercede and redirect the dog’s
attention. The physiological reaction is therefore thwarted and
the dog is able to avoid an all- out aggressive response. Missing those early signs leaves the handler with no other option but
damage control. These reactions are very similar to the way we
behave once we have become very angry or stressed. Have you
ever been in a near miss auto accident? Your pulse races,
adrenalin and cortisol flood your brain and it is only when you
have time to calm a bit that you can think clearly about the
situation. Switching from one brain function to another quickly
and smoothly is a learned ability for humans and dogs and is a
very important skill for addressing aggression problems.
While there are many layers to a well-thought-out aggression
training protocol, including counter conditioning and desensitization, helping the dog to develop skills that enable him to access self-control while under the stress of the aggressionprompting stimuli is critical. Whether you consider the dog to
be dominant, status seeking, fearful or reactive, teaching the
dog to use self-control is invaluable. Dogs that continually
“default” to the environment are unable to process information
and cannot learn new strategies for coping. Switching exercises
are the key to forming new neural pathways between the limbic
14
area and the cerebral cortex that facilitate the dog’s ability to
regulate arousal. These exercises help to teach the aggressive
dog that he can control his impulses, and the new learned behaviors can give your dog options other than aggression when
under stress. They also give the handler a way to regulate
arousal levels in the dog and gain control of situations that
were previously uncontrollable.
One of the most valuable switching exercises that I know of is
the “Leave It” command. This command interrupts the excited
limbic reaction to highly valued food items or toys and teaches
the dog to give a response that requires thought, namely, to
look away from the item and focus on the handler (please refer
to “Leave It, a Tool for Addressing Aggression,” Safe Hands
Journal, Summer 2004.) When taught to a high degree of proficiency, leave it develops a smooth switch from emotion
(limbic) to thought (cerebral cortex).
“Pause obstacles” used in agility training offer another opportunity to practice switching exercises. Pause tables (or the less
frequently used pause box) demand that the agility dog stop on
the obstacle and assume the down position for five seconds
before being released to the next obstacle. This activity takes
the dog from the highly aroused state of flying around and
through agility obstacles to the relatively sedate state of a
down/stay.
As you can see, anything that causes a dog to quickly switch
from an emotional state (stress, fear, anger, high excitement) to
a thoughtful state (problem solving, executing commands), or
vice versa is a switching exercise. Below are a few that may
work for you and your clients.
Walks and Commands – Many dogs become highly excited
when you first pick up the leash or take that first step out for a
walk. The arousal level can go from calm to near hysteria in a
split second. This is the perfect time to stop for some basic
obedience. A simple sit or down is all that is needed to effect a
switching exercise here. You won’t even need to worry about
food rewards because the walk itself is a great life reward for
compliance. The ultimate goal is to work up to a more demanding 10 – 30 second stay. This simple exercise is available to your clients almost every day.
Tug to Give – Many dogs become highly aroused while playing a good game of tug. If your client’s dog is able to play tug
without becoming aggressive, this will be a good option for
you. Get your client’s dog involved, really involved, in a game
of tug. Just as you can see that he is very excited by the game,
freeze and command “give” (or “out”). You may initially need
to produce a second tug toy or a treat to “trade up” until the
Cont’d Page 15
Switching Exercises Cont’d
Egos Don’t Belong Cont’d
dog can respond well. With this exercise your client’s dog will
learn how to switch from excited to thinking about and executing the give command.
nice temperament, just some bad habits. Were they going to
lead to something disastrous? No. And so, I smiled and agreed
that he was brilliant. (And he was after all, wasn’t he?) We
worked on her needs (stays and a recall), and although the dog
still counter-surfed and had middle of the night play sessions,
the client was thrilled. I was thrilled too - thrilled that this dog
was never going to live with me.
Down/Stay to Fetch – If the dog is highly ball driven, this will
probably be the most challenging and therefore the most effective and rewarding exercise you can choose. The idea is obviously to put the dog into a down/stay and then throw a ball as
the dog maintains position. After a few seconds, release the
dog to fetch the ball, thereby switching from thought to
arousal. Start this exercise slowly by tossing the ball only two
feet or so after giving the down/stay command (you may need
to hold his collar at first). This should excite him only moderately and give you a better chance to get him to obey the command. Gradually throw the ball further and further to challenge
your dog more and more. Ultimately you should be able to put
your dog into a down/stay as you throw the ball as far as you
like before releasing him. An even higher challenge is to throw
the ball while allowing the dog to pursue it. Early into the
chase loudly give the “stay” command. It may be necessary to
attach a twenty foot line or leash to the dog’s collar to help
gradually bring the dog to a stop until he can respond appropriately on his own. Never allow the dog to run to the end of the
leash at full speed. This version of the exercise takes the dog
from arousal to thought.
Take the high road.
In my early days of learning, I observed a seasoned trainer
meeting with new clients. The couple arrived at the meeting
along with their American Eskimo mix, looking for nothing
more than to get some basic obedience on this newly acquired
family member. After witnessing interactions among the involved parties, it was clear that this road to an obedient companion wasn’t going to be a long one … except that the husband’s attitude might get in the way.
The husband was openly skeptical of every word issued by the
trainer. (Ring a bell?) Following a list of patronizing questions, it was easy to predict what was coming next … “You
know, I’ve trained dogs all my life. I know what I’m doing,
but she’s the one that’s home with the dog all day – she thinks
the dog needs this [professional guidance].”
Okay, so sometimes the high and mighty routine comes from
the owner. So what. Take the high road, understand they’re
experiencing an element of stress, and be empathetic. There’s
nothing more impressive or elegant to watch than a trainer who
can transform the cautious or caustic attitude of a client into
appreciative compliance without ever issuing a word of dissent
or using an insolent tone. It’s far more challenging, skillful,
and rewarding than being cynical. That gentleman left that day
with a bag full of new training tools, a paid-in-full contract for
six lessons, and yes, a new attitude. I believe the trainer
could’ve had him sit, down, stay, and come, based on the rapport they shared by the time he left.
Obedience while Playing with Children or Other Dogs – (Do
not use this exercise with children if the dog has shown any
aggression with humans. Also, do not use this exercise using
dogs if the client’s dog is aggressive with other dogs.) Let the
dog become excited while romping and playing with children
or dogs that he is comfortable with and quickly give the sit and
stay command. Have him hold the stay for 10 seconds or so
and release him. This can be quite a challenge but is an excellent switching exercise.
If you use your imagination it should be easy to develop other
exercises that help dogs to access control when highly excited.
Because it is easier for a dog to access old, well-ingrained habits, it can be a challenge to get a dog to switch to a more
thoughtful sort of response. As with any training, patience is a
key asset. Take your time and celebrate each success.
Image isn’t everything.
A colleague said, “Wait until you see her,” as she handed me a
completed registration form for private lessons. Yikes, I
thought, based on her tone. The day of her first private lesson
for her GSD puppy, I admit I was peering out the window as
she arrived. There was large hair. Very large hair. There was
Tammy Faye makeup. There were pants fitted so snugly they
would’ve made me wish instead for a corset. There were big
tires, very big tires. And there were kids – two young ones in
tow directly from Karate practice. So around the corner she
came with the Karate kids and Rambo.
By the way, you might notice that switching exercises have
benefits beyond working with aggressive dogs. I began practicing these exercises with my Australian shepherd / Border
collie cross Kylie (not an aggressive dog) at a very young age.
It quickly became apparent that she could respond more
quickly than many well-trained, older dogs to the come command even when highly aroused by chasing wildlife. I now
add switching exercises to the basic training program of many
excitable dogs that I work with.
Then there was the velvet black Standard Poodle with perfectly
poofy legs and an expertly coifed topknot. Sharing the no-hairout-of-place groom was the owner. She came to group class
always clad in beautiful clothing and in heels never less than
two inches high. The clanging of her jewelry didn’t seem to
bother her as she juggled her training materials. She was on
Julie Winkelman, IACP Basic Proficiency Certified,
Professional Member #1097
ALPHA CANINE ACADEMY LLC (970) 382-5937
15
Cont’d Page 23
The Management and Training Equation
A view to balance by Mary Mazzeri
When interacting with a pup, people think like people. It is ‘only
human’ to impose our ‘human thought processes’ on our dogs
and interpret dog behavior through ‘human perspective’. Unless a
dog’s owner makes some effort to understand their dog’s behavior and instincts, there is a good probability that
a dog will develop behavior problems. Some
pet owners assume their pooch is ‘preprogrammed' to understand all that is required
of it. Many pups grow up like Topsy, without
any ‘fetching up’. They are expected to figure
things out on their own and understand the subtleties of human linguistics and society.
Dogs do come pre-programmed –to act like
dogs. Dogs want to know who is in charge.
They crave enjoyable, understandable relationships, and consistent ‘rules’. Those in charge
set the relational rules of order. Wise owners
teach their pups what is acceptable play: e.g.
retrieving puppy toys and what is not: e.g.
knocking down the 3 yr. old. They teach the
pup to sit patiently while its food bowl is
placed. In the pup’s mind, those who control
resources are the leaders. Leaders teach the pup to accept gentle
restraint. In the pup’s mind those who control personal space are
the leaders. Leaders teach the puppy where to sleep, where it is
and is not allowed, and to ‘move out of the way’ when the leader
walks by. In the pup’s mind those who control territory are the
leaders. These types of simple rules establish healthy relationships within the perceived ‘pack’. Such a relationship is fun, safe
and secure. These relational skills help mold the pup’s ‘world
view’. Dogs learn these things through both intentional and unintentional training.
An essential element of learning is ‘management’. Management
means controlling the learning experiences to direct the outcomes. Examples of management would be placing barriers to
confine a pup to keep it safe and to keep it from developing bad
habits or causing damage. Fenced yards, gated doorways, and
cages are examples of managed barriers. Other types of management involve keeping items out of reach that might harm a pup or
that a pup might damage. It is providing the pup with safe toys,
healthy food, and good health care. The ultimate managing principle is supervision where all behavior can be rewarded, redirected or corrected in a timely way. When a pup can’t be supervised, it should be safely confined.
Initially, training is imposed or induced. Once a pup learns a behavior however, the behavior can either be maintained through
external management, internalized motivation, or a combination
of both. Initially training relies, to some degree, on setting up or
controlling learning experiences. Outcomes are orchestrated to
teach the dog how to respond appropriately. This is Training
Management and it is a good place to start. Some dogs, however,
never get past being managed and don’t, by themselves, develop
intrinsic reliability. This higher level of training requires that the
dog understands and act on what is desirable and what is not de-
sirable in its behavior. It reaches beyond management to a
certain level of personal accountability. You can see this
admirably demonstrated by thousands of working military,
police, Seeing Eye and service dogs, who ‘take responsibility’ for learned behaviors. This level of training requires a balanced approach covering all
aspects of behavioral reinforcement and punishment.
Positive reinforcement (reward) is essential
for the teaching of a new behavior, but positive reinforcement does not effectively stand
alone to produce reliability in real world
situations. When using only positive reinforcement (no punishment) training, the
trainer is permanently cast in the role of the
manager. When a dog is expecting a reward
and doesn’t get it, it becomes disappointed.
Disappointment leads to extinction*. (*The
trained behaviors tend to disappear if the
reinforcement is not continued.)
In a balanced approach, (rewarding wanted
behavior and ‘unrewarding’ unwanted behavior), as soon as any behavior has been established, it is tested
by applying positive or negative consequences based on the
dog’s behavior. This allows the reward for performing the
behavior to be internalized –to become self-rewarding. Selfrewarding behaviors tend more strongly to continue throughout the dog's life. A ‘correction’ occurs when a dog fails to
respond to a known cue. Responding to a cue prevents the
correction. This results in what psychologists refer to as relief, which is the opposite of disappointment. For instance,
the trained dog understands that failure to “Stay” on command results in punishment (e.g. a snap on a training collar
=correction) whereas compliance brings a sense of completion. It knows it has avoided a correction. The dog is empowered to choose the consequences. Since the dog’s underlying
motivation for doing an act is to move toward comfort, anything that causes relief has the effect of making performance
rewarding ‘in and of itself’. It removes a trainer from the role
of manager and it insures long term continuation of the behavior. When the dog moves into this role, you have a reliably trained dog.
A trained dog is one that gives behaviors long term -without
external reward. The dog has ‘internalized’ the reasons for
doing things. They offer the behaviors long term. When
something is positively reinforced from within, it keeps on
happening. Management is a good place to start. Self motivation is a great place to get to. It comes through balancing
both sides of the reward and punishment equation.
Mary Mazzeri has operated Care Dog Training in the Chicago area since 1970.. She has been an Irish wolfhound
fancier since 1969. She has bred, owned and trained
Champion UDT dogs of 6 different breeds.
16
Today I Changed the World
Today I changed the world.
by Chad Mackin
Nothing magic, nothing any of you haven't done before a hundred times over. But sometimes, sometimes I forget to see the
gifts we give these dogs.
Of course you won't notice, it is a quiet change.
But I changed it nonetheless.
Today I guided a young confused puppy into the world of language, of communication. I introduced the little lady to truth, to
the right of self-determination. I taught her, finally, that she has
control over her environment. She is awake now.
I changed the world for her owners too. For the first time they
saw their dog as she is, underneath frantic activity caused by
desperation, by absolute confusion, by fear of the unknowable
future. They saw a calm, relaxed peaceful dog where before had
been a ball of undirected unpredictable activity. Gone was the
incessant barking, the non-stop running to an fro, the unfocused
gaze. Instead, she was lying at our feet, breathing deep and rythmic, relaxed and comfortable in her body for the first time in
months. They had never seen her like this, not even sleeping did
she relax. They believe I am a miracle worker. I am not.
I simply showed this sweet young girl that her choices had
meaning, that my words, my movement, and yes the ecollar, had
clear and distinct meanings. Further, I taught her that she could
count on those meanings. She learned that humans CAN make
sense after all. We can be consistent. I let her learn that her behavior can produce predictable changes in her environment.
17
Sometimes I forget the breadth and depth of the hope we give
these dogs.
Sometimes, I am just doing my job, and the beauty of what we
are doing disappears under a hundred other considerations.
But today, I saw it, as if for the first time. Today I remembered
that dog training is not a job, it is a vocation. I remembered
that I serve the dogs first and the clients second.
Today, the world is a different place. Because I changed it. I
changed it for a dog, for her owners, and for a simple dog
trainer in Texas.
Never forget how blessed we are to do what we do. It is right
and good, and by God, someone needs to be doing it. We are
the lucky ones who get to do it, and the world is a better place
for our efforts.
Sometimes, I forget that, but not today... not today.
Chad Mackin is an IACP Professional Member from Texas
and is a serving Director of the Association.
Bringing Home Baby
by Dawn Geremia
gram containing a minimum of 4 basic obedience commands, along with a mannerly walk (no leash pulling).
Please understand this article was written under the assumption that you do not own an aggressive dog. If your dog has
ever shown aggression, or ever shows aggression in the future, contact a professional dog trainer immediately. Growling, showing teeth, snapping, etc, should never be taken
lightly and seriously endangers the welfare of your newborn
baby. You will need professional guidance.
Recommended Commands
Come: your dog should come when called, at minimum,
around your home with distractions such as visitors. It
would be even better if your dog was reliable outside, offleash.
So, you’re having a baby and you already have a dog.
What’s the best way to introduce the two so that there are as few
problems as possible? I’m sure you’ve heard that you should
bring home a dirty diaper, or a blanket from the hospital after the
baby is born, so that your dog will become accustomed to the
scent of the baby. This is a good idea, but did you know there are
multiple things you can do before you have your baby, and not
wait until after you give birth, to help smooth the transition of
bringing home baby to your family dog?
Off: your dog should be taught to stay off of people and
furniture unless he is invited up. This will help prevent any
accidents while someone is carrying the baby or while sitting
with the baby on the sofa.
First, consider your dog’s current behavior. Not the
behavior that you would like him to have, or hope for him to
have, but his behavior on this very day. Does your dog jump on
people? If so, what if he jumped on you while you are holding
your baby? Does he jump on the furniture without waiting to be
invited? If so, what if your baby was lying on the bed and the
dog jumped up, landing on the baby? Does he come when
called? If not, how will you keep your dog from running out the
front door when visitors arrive and you have your baby in your
arms? Does he drag you down the sidewalk on his leash as if he
were heading up the Alaskan Sled Dog Team? If so, how will
you safely walk your dog while pushing your baby in a stroller?
Would you allow a friend’s dog with these behaviors to be
around your newborn baby? Hopefully, not, so you should not
allow your own dog to exhibit these behaviors around your baby.
Place: this command teaches your dog to stay in a specified
area such as on a mat/board or on his bed. This is very useful when visitors have arrived, when you may be changing
the baby on the floor, when you are showering and need to
keep your dog in the bathroom with you, or for when you
just need a moment’s peace without having the dog, or baby,
in your space!
The first step to ensuring a smooth transition is to form a
relationship with your dog where he knows and understands that
you are the leader, and he must follow through with your directions. This can be done by enrolling in an obedience class with
your dog. There are two major points to consider when looking
for an obedience program. Keep in mind that, one; you have limited time to get your dog under control, probably much less than
9 months! And two, you will eventually have limited mobility
due to your enlarging belly, aching back, loose joints, and swollen hands and feet. Sounds like fun, huh? So, when you’re looking for an obedience program, be sure it will accommodate both
your physical needs and your timeframe for needed results.
Along with obedience, you want to begin helping
your dog adjust to the lack of time you will have for him
when the baby arrives. Begin by paying less attention to
your dog now. Trust me. You will not have as much time
for your dog as you did before having the baby. You will
begin to have more time for your dog as you and your baby
settle into a schedule, but this won’t happen for at least a few
months. By doing this now, he is less likely to associate the
lack of attention with the new baby. It will be something
that he has already become accustomed to over the past few
months.
Obviously, a full obedience course is recommended if
possible. However, if you are well into your pregnancy, and
really short on time, try to find a trainer that will offer you a
shortened, but effective, program that will fit your needs. How
do you know what your needs are, you ask? Well, having recently had a baby myself, I am comfortable recommending a pro-
Not sure how to ignore your dog? For starters,
don’t pet the dog every time he solicits it. Remember, some
day soon your hands will be filled with diapers, bags, bottles
and the baby! It will be impossible to pet your dog whenever
he wants you to. Also, if you’re the type of person who
takes your dog everywhere, even if he just sits in the car
while you run in for milk, you’ll need to start cutting back on
Leave It: your dog should be taught to leave certain objects
alone when told to. This can include dirty diapers, food that
the baby has dropped on the floor, or is still holding in her
hand, baby toys and a host of other objects.
Finally, you want to be sure your dog walks politely
on a leash. This means no more dragging you down the sidewalk, or tangling up your legs with the leash. You will want
your dog to be able to walk nicely with you while you are
also pushing your baby in her stroller.
Before Baby Comes Home
18
Cont’d Page 19
Bringing Home Baby —cont’d
the car trips with him. This does not mean you can never take
your dog anywhere. Of course I still want you walking him
daily, and even taking him on trips to the park or the feed store.
Just don’t take him with you every single time you leave your
home.
Let’s think about what sort of toys your baby is going
to receive as gifts. For starters, there are stuffed bears, stuffed
dolls, stuffed bugs that vibrate, stuffed ducks that quack, stuffed
shapes that squeak, stuffed Winnie the Pooh, and stuffed caterpillars. Now, please read that paragraph again. Do you see a
pattern? YES! Everything is
stuffed!! Now, my guess is that your
dog has at least one stuffed toy lying
around the house, and it probably
squeaks. Your dog should have toys
that are distinctly his. This means
they should not be stuffed and they
should not squeak. Things such as
hard rubber toys (Kongs, balls),
knotted ropes, and cloth Frisbees are
all good to start with. Over time, it
is possible to teach your dog what
toys are his and which toys are your
baby’s. However, during the teaching phase, it is easier on you, and the
dog, if you make an effort to differentiate between toys.
Not only should your dog have his own toys, he should
have his own space where he can safely go and not be disturbed
by the baby, who will eventually be mobile. A crate is a great
way to give your dog a ‘safe zone’. Set up the crate in a place
that is easily accessible to your dog. Fill it with soft bedding,
and if it’s a wire crate, cover it with a blanket. The door can
always be left open so your dog can come and go as he pleases.
Your dog should not be disturbed while in his crate. By this, I
mean no poking and prodding by the baby! Of course you can
call your dog out of the crate as you need to, but he should not
be bothered by nosey children while he’s trying to have some
private time. As the baby grows, be sure to enforce the rules to
her…don’t bother the dog when he has retreated to his crate.
Once your dog’s ‘sanctuary’ is set up, you will need to
start setting up your baby’s sanctuary…the nursery! This presents another great opportunity to involve your dog in getting
ready for the baby. While putting together the crib, furniture,
stroller and playpen, amongst other things, allow your dog to
investigate. Don’t ban your dog from the area that you are
working in. I feel that if you restrict a dog access to investigate,
you may increase his interest level and he can actually become
bothersome. This will only increase tension between you and
your dog. Allow him to come into the room and sniff through
everything. If he shows interest by remaining in the room
while you finish your assembly, allow him to calmly remain
with you.
intend on restricting your dog’s access, then begin that restriction now. Use a physical boundary such as a baby-gate
or keeping the door closed, or, even better, teach your dog to
remain behind the threshold of the door until invited in.
Whatever you choose to do, either allowing your dog access
or not, don’t wait until your baby has arrived to begin teaching your dog what is acceptable. Start today.
Once your items are assembled, use them before the
baby arrives. Put the swing on and leave it in motion for a
while. Push the stroller around the house and outside in the
driveway. Do NOT chase your dog with
it, especially if your dog is hesitant
around any of the equipment. Practice
loading the stroller, unfolding the stroller
and pushing the stroller, all while you
have the dog on lead with you. It’s
much safer to get your coordination issues under control before you have your
little one sitting in the stroller!
The last two things you want to
do before having the baby is bring the
dog to the vet for a checkup and arrange
some help with your dog for when you
are in the hospital and for when you first
come home. Knowing someone is ‘on call’ to help take care
of him when you leave for the hospital will allow you to concentrate on the exciting time to come! A vet exam can uncover any unnoticed aches, pains, or infections that may
cause your dog to be a bit under the weather, which may lead
to irritability.
Bringing home baby
So, you’ve had you’re baby and you’re ready to
come home! Congratulations! Up until the day you left for
the hospital, you’ve been preparing your dog for the arrival
of your baby. Good work. The key to introducing the
baby is to stay calm and don’t make a fuss.
When you arrive home, leave dad in the car with
baby while you go into the house and greet your dog. Remember, you’ve been away for at least a few days, so he will
be excited to see you. If, for any reason, you feel you won’t
be able to handle him by yourself (for example you’re recovering from a c-section), then simply switch roles and allow
Dad to enter the home first.
Once you are inside, spend a moment with your
dog. This will allow him to greet you and it will also give
him a moment to check out baby’s scent, which is all over
you. Once you have said your hellos, attach his leash and
practice a little obedience with him.
While you are doing all of this, Dad should be outside taking the baby out of the car seat and getting ready for
On the other hand, if the nursery is a place where you
19
Cont’d Page 20
Bringing Home Baby-Cont’d
little one by putting her in a playpen! Consider your dog’s
crate his playpen…a safe place to put him while you both relax.
the introduction.
If weather permits, bring your dog outside for the meeting. If not, the introductions can be made in the house.
With your dog still on-leash; walk out to the baby, who,
at this point, should be snuggled in dad’s arms. Allow your dog
to greet dad and baby by sniffing and getting a pat on the shoulder from dad. Do NOT allow him to jump up. Remind him to
stay ‘off’ and use the leash to tug him if he decides to try and
jump. Remember, baby’s safety always comes first. Most likely,
he will give a few sniffs and then move on….great!! Do not
force the baby into his space. If he shows little or no interest,
this is perfectly acceptable. Once the introduction has taken
place, you can begin settling in with baby!
Safety First!
Now that you are all home, you will need to begin the
‘balancing act’ of keeping your newborn safe while still including
your dog in family activities. When I refer to keeping your baby
‘safe’, I am not only referring to a possible bite, I am referring to
an accidental scratch, being stepped on, or being knocked over.
Don’t think the only damage that can be done by your dog is a
bite to your newborn. Accidents happen every day.
Okay. So, first things first. NEVER LEAVE YOUR
DOG AND BABY ALONE….NEVER….NOT EVEN FOR A
MINUTE. No matter how well behaved your dog is, or how
much he loves children, he is still a dog. He is not a ‘little person
in fur’, which means that he has instincts and drives that can be
turned on in the snap of a finger. Unfortunately, we don’t always
know what can kick on those instinctual behaviors. For this reason, your baby and dog must always be supervised while together. When people ask if a particular dog ‘bites’, I like to say,
“He’s got teeth, doesn’t he?” If your dog has teeth, he’s capable
of biting. This doesn’t mean he will bite, but always remember
that he can bite. One single bite to a baby can cause unimaginable consequences for the dog and your baby. It doesn’t matter
what breed, size, color, or temperament of your dog. Be smart,
never say, “My dog would never….” A dog is a dog is a dog.
So, since dog and baby cannot be left alone together,
what does that mean to you? It means you won’t be getting much
‘alone time’ unless your dog is confined. What I mean by this is,
when you take a shower, dog or baby should sit in the bathroom.
When you go to use the bathroom, dog goes with you (usually
easier than bringing baby). When you go upstairs to get dressed,
dog or baby tags along. When you go downstairs to do laundry,
dog or baby goes with you. Get my point? Never leave them
alone together.
If you cannot keep your dog with you or you just need a
bit of ‘alone time’, which you will, confine your dog. This is the
perfect opportunity to use your dog’s crate throughout the day.
Or, you can use a baby gate to limit his access to certain rooms.
Don’t feel guilty about confining your dog at certain times during
the day. Soon enough you’ll be doing the same thing with your
Not only will you need to keep your dog (or baby)
with you at all times, you will need to be aware of your dog
when you lay your baby down on the floor. I advise you not to
put your newborn on the floor if your dog is freely wandering
around the home. Along with the obvious possibility of a bite,
some dogs have no concept of where their feet are, and may
inadvertently step on the baby causing harm to your little one.
Even dogs that are normally calm may frantically run for the
door if a visitor arrives. And according to Murphy’s Law, your
dog will take the path to the door where your baby happens to
be lying at that moment.
And finally, never leave your dog and baby unsupervised. Not even for a minute. I know I already said it, but I
feel it’s the single most important piece of advice I can give
you. And so, I will say it one more time. Never leave your
dog and baby unsupervised.
Okay! Now we can move on!
The Transition
Since I’ve mentioned how little time you’re going to
have after you give birth, you must be wondering how you’re
going to be able to smoothly transition your dog into your expanded family.
Well, there are actually a few simple actions that
when done on a daily basis, will help him feel like part of the
family. Since you have completed an obedience program, you
can begin integrating the commands the very day you come
home. Begin by putting a Place-board in each room. This
way, no matter what room you’re in, or what you’re doing in
that room, you will be able to keep your dog with you, and
under control. This will help him to feel like part of the family.
Help make your dog feel included with the new baby.
When you go to pick up your baby from a nap, or because
she’s crying, say “Let’s go, Fido” and allow your dog to follow
you to the cradle or crib. When you pick baby up, pat your dog
on the head and tell him he’s a good boy. In the long run, this
small gesture may even teach your dog to alert you to your
baby’s cry!
When you are sitting on the couch, or rocking your
baby, allow him to investigate. Don’t ban your dog from being
around your newborn, but be sure to keep the situation under
your control at all times. If he comes over to you calmly, allow
him to sniff your little one. Always keep a hand within inches
of your dog’s head so you will be able to control him if need
be. You can do this by petting him while he calmly investigates. This allows you to praise him for good behavior, it helps
form a positive association with the baby, and it will allow you
to respond instantly should you need to shield your baby from
your dog’s excitement.
If you are not comfortable with your dog being in
20
Cont’d Page 21
Bringing Home Baby -Cont’d
close proximity of your new baby, then do not allow it. You
know your dog best. Only you can decide if it is appropriate for
your dog to approach.
mands to keep your dog within the family action, yet keeping
him safely at bay.
Now that you have graduated obedience class, your dog
should be able to walk nicely on a leash. This means no pulling
you down the street. Walks are a wonderful way to have time
together. They are great exercise, and after having a new baby,
they are great for your sanity! Whenever possible, take your dog
on walks with you or even on short trips to the park. Just remember, when traveling in a vehicle with your dog and baby, make
certain that your dog (and baby) are properly restrained. For the
dog, this can include using a crate, a barrier (mesh or metal bars),
or a doggie seatbelt. Always keep your baby’s safety in mind.
One wrong move from your dog while you’re driving can be disastrous for all of you. Stay safe…always restrain all living beings in your vehicle.
Leave It: this command can be used if your dog is approaching your baby, dirty diapers (yeah, I know, gross, but true), or
a bottle that’s sitting on the table. You can also use this command in the future to help teach your dog not to steal food
from your baby’s hands.
Off: use this command to keep your dog from jumping on
guest, from jumping on furniture when he has not been asked
up, from jumping on you while you’re holding your baby.
Come: this command can be used when calling your dog
from room to room, when guests arrive and he rushes the
door, or when your arms are filled with baby and gear and you
just need him with you for whatever reason.
And finally, walking nicely. This is self explanatory. It will
more relaxing, and safer, to have a dog that walks nicely,
without pulling, on a leash.
How to Use Obedience Effectively
Here are a few suggestions on how to integrate your
obedience commands. They will help smooth the transition for
everyone involved when used properly.
Place (also, Sit/Down if your dog knows them): these can all be
used when guests come to visit your new family. Be sure they
don’t forget to greet the dog. Keeping him under control will help
lessen your frustration and your worry about him accidentally
hurting someone in all of the excitement. Also, use these com21
So, as you can see, there are many ways to help
smooth the transition of dog and baby into your family life,
together. It starts long before you give birth and will continue
throughout the life of your dog. Congratulations on your new
family and good luck!
Dawn Geremia is an active and valued Professional member
of IACP. She lives in Connecticut
www.firstfrienddogtraining.com
Dog Training is a People Business.
Martin Deeley
I hear it said many times by dog professionals - although we do
it because we love dogs, this really is a people business. As
professionals we place the emphasis of our work and our learning on the dog, when in fact, to be successful we have to obtain
the trust, confidence and acceptance of the owners. We have to
build on this by developing in the owner a belief in us and our
abilities. It is not the dog that selects the professional that is
going to work with him, it is the owner. It is not ourselves that
train and handle the dog but their owners.
This is very true where dogs and their owners come in for
lessons either as individuals or part of a group. We are
training people to train their dogs, and although in class we
may teach the dog the beginnings of a behavior, it is the
homework the owner does that will make the difference
between a well or badly behaved dog. Even if we do
board and train the big problem comes if the owners do not
continue with the training in the way we did it. It is the
training of the owner that makes the difference.
Most dogs are young when they
So often when we meet the owners and
come in for training. Changing their
discuss their problems we hear within
behavior is not all that difficult in
their words reasons why we will fail with
most instances. Owners however
their dogs. We do not read the human
already have at least 20 years of their
problems and think how we can effecown personal in grained behaviors
tively tutor the owners to train their dogs.
and words when they come to us.
We recognize the words and attitudes of
They are not natural dog trainers. All
owners and may become defeatist before
their behaviors, feelings, and opinwe start. It is almost as though we are
ions are well entrenched and so habitlooking for reasons we can use in the
ual, comfortable or believed that getfuture for why they did not put their dog
ting them to change can be very hard
with us, or for our failing at what we
work indeed. People use words and
were teaching them to do. We say it is a
movements they are secure with.
people business yet we do not treat it as
When
we want to change them, it
Martin
Deeley
and
3
clients
in
training
such. We may be able to train dogs but
becomes
as difficult as stopping a
we have problems coaching the owners to train their dog.
chocoholic reaching for a Hershey’s Kiss. They are no
different from ourselves. If we have to learn a new lanYou have heard it all before, from trainers about owners –
guage or new dance steps for example, it takes time, understanding and clear instruction with a motivation to learn
“She was a Yes but….person. Just would not listen”
that comes from a good tutor.
“He seemed to think the dog would be trained by just listening
to my words.”
“They never followed through with the training.”
“The dog was good with me but they just were not clear with
their commands when they were at home.”
“They refused to use the equipment I recommended.”
“They want an ‘off the shelf’ dog – one that comes trained and
obedient.”
“Today people are like that, they want it perfect and they want
it now.”
As professionals we must develop interpersonal skills,
good ‘bed side’ manners, motivational approaches and
human behavior modification approaches for the owners.
Unless we can get owners to do correctly what we ask,
then even the best of our dog training skills can fly out the
window. It is not each of us as individuals training the dog,
but the owner during every minute of every day.
The list can go on forever and we can all add new excuses
every day. Yet these attitudes we read in owners, are signs and
clues which will help us to develop a successful coaching approach.
Each owner is an individual with individual behaviors, fears,
emotions, experiences, beliefs and opinions; just like ourselves.
We have to respect that and either work within these parameters, or, create an atmosphere of change to enable them to develop and accept what we wish to do for the benefit of their
dog. We have to be positive in our approaches and get owners
realizing that together we can succeed. Dog training in particular should be renamed ‘Coaching Owners to train their dogs’.
22
As a teacher of many years, both of people and dogs I have
had a philosophy and approach which can help with this. It
is ‘Put yourself in their shoes.” Try to understand where
they are coming from, relate to their problems and help
them to overcome these by realizing that they are not average people – they are unique. Every person like every dog
is an individual and different. If, while doing this, you can
make your guidance fun and inspirational then you are one
big step towards helping the dog. Success will come from
thinking of yourself not as a dog trainer but as a ‘dog owners coach’.
Martin is President of IACP and owner of The
International School for Dog Trainers
www.internationaldogschool.com
Egos Don’t Belong-Cont’d.
time every week with Father’s Favorite, FiFi for short.
It’s a business transaction; while they may genuinely appreciate your help, you owed it to them.
The two clients – social extremes - likely had absolutely nothing in common other than their commitment to their animals,
and that was enough for me. Lovely families with great care
for animals come in all kinds of packages. Whether they arrive
in a rusted Pinto or a gleaming Bentley, don’t develop a preconceived notion - be glad they’re working with their dogs.
Give people the benefit of the doubt; you don’t
know from whence they came. And if they doubt
you, accept it as an opportunity to showcase your
talents with the dog, not your pride.
You attract more bees with honey.
A new client in a group class
followed every instruction perfectly, but didn’t seem to have a
lot of confidence or fun. As the
weeks went by, I tried my best
to remain patient and encouraging. With each class, the more
she came out of her shell and
her little dog appreciated it more
than anyone else. At the last
class, she approached me. “I
just wanted to say that I really
just appreciate you being nice.
At the last place, they said
things, like ‘your dog doesn’t
like training because of you’
and ‘your dog will never be able
to compete in anything because
she won’t listen to you.’ And it
isn’t that I can’t take criticism,
but I see such a difference in my
dog just from how I am in class now.”
Don’t lose sight of the fact that what seems basic to
a professional, isn’t to the average pet owner. A
high level of expertise does incorporate the simplest
task.
Remember they have to live with
the dog, not you. It isn’t about
you, your rules, or what works for
your dogs. It’s about them, what
they can manage, and the cooperative journey required to get there.
Be patient. We all have flaws and
they often rear they’re ugly heads
when loved ones are involved,
even if they are of the canine variety. Take the high road, bite your
tongue, whatever it takes to be the
bigger person. It’s the choice that
demonstrates wisdom, and it’s the
one that will prove to be more
fruitful for your business.
Kids are receptive to the right approach
Constructive criticism is one thing, but what this woman was
describing from her past experiences wasn’t it. Belligerence
doesn’t breed motivation. People will want to learn more from
us if we treat them with common decency. Despite their missteps in training or even their character flaws, keep a level head
and do your best to help. There’s no room for condescension or
conceit or guilt or disrespect. They waste time and are counterproductive. While I may not get a client referral from her just
for being nice, I know where she told all of her friends not to
go.
It’s about the dog … and the people.
Tolerance is a skill. Patience is a skill. With some clients, just
being nice is a skill. Master them; employ them. Learning to
work with clients and to adjust your approach with different
ones while maintaining a level of professionalism is an art. It
isn’t the dog-training skills that are in question. But when’s the
last time you worked on your people skills?
Pair candor with compassion.
They didn’t intentionally do anything wrong.
Try to find the funny. Whether it’s a tense
situation, a sassy client, or a bad-mouthing colleague, find the humor of the situation. Laugh
about it, just make sure it’s in your head or in the
privacy of your own home.
Don’t underestimate the influence the experiences you share and the examples you set have on
your peers and the dog training community at large.
Always keep in the back of your mind why you
got into this in the first place – to help the dog.
So you deal with people because you love dogs. Me, too.
Just check your ego at the door. The clients don’t need it,
the dog doesn’t need it, and really, do you?
Elizabeth Beverley is a member of IACP and training
Manager of Pampered Pets in Virginia.
Be more humble; you don’t know everything.
There’s nothing wrong with being proud, but just like confidence, there’s a difference between it and arrogance.
23
Canine Performance Medicine (3 DVD’s),
Pat Perkins $40.00
How to Run Successful Group Classes,
Rocky Boatman $30.00
The Koehler Legacy, (3 DVD’s)
Pam Green, Mary Mazzeri, Margot Woods $40.00
Frisbee Dogs 101, Melissa Heeter $30.00
Aggression Roundtable $30.00
Advancing Through Adversity, Dale Delisle $30.00
Who Will Speak for Our Dogs, Patti Strand $30.00
Unleash Your Inner Dog Book, Kris Butler $30.00
The Answer To Dog Aggression, Panel and Dick Russell
by Telephone $30.00
What's In An Obedience Title,
Vivian Bregman $30.00
Teaching Dogs to Read, Bonnie Bergin $20.00
How Safe Are We, Brice Cavanaugh $20.00
SHIPPING EXTRA
PRICES ABOVE ARE FOR IACP MEMBERS ONLY AND ORDERED THROUGH HEAD OFFICE
Others requiring copies should contact -Tawzer Dog Videos www.tawzerdogvideos.com 888 566-3003
INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF CANINE
PROFESSIONALS
P.O. Box 560156 Monteverde, FL 34756-0156
Telephone - (877) THE-IACP or (407) 469-2008 Fax - (407) 469-7127
www.dogpro.org
24
A Non-Profit
Organization