Premie?re Vision NYSS16 Trend_Analysis

North America's leading boutique textile show highlights dimensional textures
and sports influences as the lead high-fashion fancy fabric messages for S/S 16.
​Preview
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Exhibitors: 297 exhibitors, including fabric mills, accessory
producers and print designers
Product offer: 118 textile companies showcasing diverse fabric
categories, including embroidery, lace, suitings, silkies, knits,
colour-wovens and technical fabrics. This season, the trimmings
supply offer has increased, totalling 28 international companies, the
majority of which are Italian
Fancy textiles is by far the biggest fabric category (68 exhibitors) at
Première Vision New York and tends to be the key focus for visiting
buyers, who often source plains and basics from Asia
Next show dates and venue: July 21-22 2015 at Pier 92, New York
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Key trend mood: sportswear continues to influence
all fabric categories. Designers and retailers look for
textiles that have visual appeal while guaranteeing
enhanced fit, drape, handle and functionality
Hot fabric compositions: multi-fibre blends drive
the market, meeting requested price points and
offering soft fabric handles, as well as more comfort
and functionality than pure-fibre offerings. The
presence of elastane, modal and Tencel cellulosics
is ever-increasing
More texture and bright colour at Ozdoku
Key weaves & knits: textural and surfaceembellished fancies are key. High-fashion casual
fabrics combine different weaves, and enriched
meshes and foams become more directional, along
with colourful apparel laces. Cut-and-sew fabrics
remain very relevant for the US market
Handloom and fringe mismatch at Malhia Kent
Specific trend: while fringed fabrics and
trims downtrend for the European market, they
maintain momentum within the US
Colour direction: brights, from pinks to yellows and
grass greens, are a buyer's highlight. Blues emerge
as safe players, from fresh, energising sky blue to
opal and pastel blue
Linen-viscose yarn-dye at Yunsa
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Enhanced casual shirting at show Trend Forum
Textured surface: handloomed wovens and
jacquards, lively piqués and honeycomb knits,
crispy to crinkled crêpes, neps, novel
embossing and subtle quilting
Soft handles: enzyme and polymer finishes
and soft-handle coatings are essential
Stretch functionality: bi or mono-stretch in all
fabric categories, from city windbreakers and
casual bottomweights to cut-and-sew fabrics
Textured embroidery at Ricamificio Gimar
Creative printed meshes, silkies & organzas at Trend Forum
Lively patterns: reinvented classics such as
gingham, herringbone and checks, and
animated stripes
Creative prints: artsy amd hand-drawn
designs are most directional
Lively patterns and handloomed effects at Malhia Kent
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Crispy crêpes at Debs Corporation
Macro-dot fils coupe jacquard silk/cotton
Polyamide mesh layered with cotton openwork
All-over flat fringe fabric
All-over sequins with gradient colour play
Embroidered cotton
​ he French company specialises in fancy womenswear fabrics using original surface elaborations, and reveals an eclectic
T
S/S 16 collection where style meets creativity. Staged in refined blue-white nuances, the most directional looks include a
new take on citywear sequins on softly draped meshes, decorated with suede embroidery. Flat fringes, sheers with filcoupé dots and tonal dimensional embroidered plains add personality and identity to any silhouette.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Washed, pure cotton
Textured, pure cotton
Bi-stretch cotton-Lycra-polyamide
Washed, pure cotton
Washed, cotton-polyester-polyamide
Leading the mood for new preppy looks and fun riviera-style blazers and jackets, Italian mill Lanificio Subalpino's S/S 16
collection of seersuckers and textured wovens is a key choice. In refined cotton blends with linen or polyester and
enhanced with up to 3% stretch fibre for fit comfort, suitings and jacketweights feature a fresh take on colour stripes,
puckered checks, dimensional dots (editor's favourite) and beyond. A lavish take on reinventing classics.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Wash, print effects on indigo shirtings and summer dressweights
Textured, cross dyed, dobby shirting
Cotton-Tencel double-cloth dobby shirting
Indigo yarn-dye dobby shiriting
Pure cotton, indigo weft stripe dobby dressweight
​ he leading Indian fabric giant pushes creativity and advanced textile engineering in its widest range of indigo and
T
everyday casuals. More subtle texture is created via masterly engineered weave mismatches where dobby (newer
compared with jacquard) merges with yarn-dye or chambray. Wash-down or liquid cotton finishing technology takes the
lead in creating amazing soft handle in pure cotton, or directional blends in cotton with Tencel, modal or linen.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
​ abrics that look like yarn-dyes but are in fact prints are a S/S 16 novelty for this established Spanish print house. OxfordF
type fabrics and plains feature tiny dots, pinstripes and micro tie patterns creating animated surfaces, achieved
primarily via digital printing technology to cut cost and lead times.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Dimensional texture woven label
Paper handtag with letter print
Lettering and graphic jacquard label
Pixelised, outscale houndstooth jacquard
Glitch-pattern woven label
Cork paper hangtag
Coordinated ribbon label sets
​ he Portuguese branding and trim company showcases coordinated sets of woven ribbons and labels to printed hangtags,
T
with accurate graphic and pattern design that sits somewhere between contemporary geometric and creative artisanal.
Bold to outlined letters and numbers and dual-tone outsized patterns with pixelated look are standouts, while a twist on
glitch design influences the creative styles in multicolour solutions.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Akin Tekstil
Ozdoku
Debs Corporation
Olmetex
​ here is overwhelming demand from buyers for textured surface enrichment across women's dressweights, casual
T
shirtings, men's suiting, cut-and-sew and outerwear fabrics. From cloqué to crinkled, air-puffed and novel embossing to
dimensional knit stitch or weave, effects give added visual and tactile value to all fabric types, working for any design
development.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Sportsmesh converted into fashion fabric at Preview
Transparent coating for new reversibles at Troficolor
Light, stretch membrane onto trench outerwear at Olmetex
Foam becomes fashion scuba fabric at Fantasie Tricot
A somewhat surprising continuation of the sports influence inspires categories such as fancies and everyday fabrics.
Coating and bonding are key, along with fibre compositions copied from sports into fashion fabrics giving conventional
textiles better functionality and comfort. Noble textiles reveal polyamide, polyester and elastane injections; wovens feature
breathable coatings or backings for a new reversible look. Active meshes and foams are the chief fashion textiles.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Ozdoku
Yunsa
Malhia Kent
Malhia Kent
​ rtisanal-look wovens are emerging in tweeds and other womenswear wovens. Evolving from the world-textile trend, these
A
handloom-emulating fabrics and knits herald a renewed interest in fabric diversity. Colourful, complex, extremely tactile
and textured, they feature raw to fibrous surfaces and work well for summer sets, coats and vests.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Ricamificio Levi
Ricamificio Gimar
Fantasie Tricot
Preview
Meshes and nets continue to trend strongly, in line with the continued influence of sportswear in fashion. These fabrics
were found throughout the major collections at Première Vision New York. Reinvented and intensively reworked via print or
embroidery, 3D meshes and flat nets are fully integrated into the fashion textile offer for layered and pieced design
development. Embroidery-emulating networks are the new story.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Ricamificio Levi
Solstiss
Ricamificio Gimar
Solstiss
Buyers interviewed at Première Vision New York emphasised the breadth of the offer of laces this season. Offerings
include fresh colour, animated dye effects (gradient nuance), enrichment via overprinting, bonding, silicone coatings or
embroidery, illumination by Lurex glints or distinct foil prints, or mimicked via a new patented embroidery technology
(launched by Ricamificio Levi). Laces inspire new design challenges and inventive applications this season.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Shima Seiki
Staff Jersey
Fantasie Tricot
Concordia Textiles
Knitted fabrics go mainstream at Première Vision New York. Available in a wide range of qualities and price ranges,
novelties are seen in texturing and bondings. Interlocks and jerseys are printed and coated, while advanced knit
technologies create jacquards and textural surface effects never reached before. Sets of micro-pattern jacquard knits work
well.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Arvind
Troficolor
Troficolor
Adalberto Estampados
​ he ongoing evolution of casual fabrics is non-stop, with an increased focus on fashion appeal, while sports influences
T
enrich these basics with functional coatings and performance values. The denim world is a key inspiration source for
casual, distressed fabric washes and finishing. Dobbies are new key shirting, yarn-dyes are emulated via digital print, while
bottoms move into organic fibres with trackable responsible productions to meet sustainable commitment requests.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Muted shine polyester at Concordia Textiles
PU finished silk rainwear at Olmetex
Dimensional texture at Shinkong Textile
Silver laminated pure ramie at Concordia Textiles
While not yet a major show product category, buyers showed interest in functional outerwear fabrics that move into fashion
segment. Textured surfaces evolve, while double faces via laminations continue for unlined summer windbreakers and
jackets. Stretch downproof polyamides for summer puffas look new. Lightweight, stretch and more natural fibre (cotton,
silk, ramie) content are the overriding messages characterising this fabric category.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Aker-Akerler Tekstil
Liberty Art Fabrics
Adalberto Estampados
Shinkong Textile Co., Ltd.
Expressive and abstract, directional prints reference the gestures of the artist's hand. They spice up plain wovens and
knits, in flashy colours on white grounds or in black-and-white compositions. Hand-drawings, scattered brushstrokes and
hand-splotch designs or scribbled sketches animate this uptrending S/S 16 womenswear print theme.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Liberty Art Fabrics
Aker-Akerler Tekstil
Adalberto Estampados
Shinkong Textile
​ lorals evolve for S/S 16 with a delicate expressiveness. Pencil tracings and faded watercolours mixed into bright colours
F
look new. Vibrantly coloured flower mismatches and overlays inspire mid-market fashion outerwear.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Toschi Passamanerie
Toschi Passamanerie
Nastrificio De Bernardi
Simona B.
​ he S/S 16 accessory trend forum on stage at Première Vision New York emphasises surface effects and dimensionality.
T
There is a dialogue between natural and artificial raw materials, and design influences range from rustic-inspired to
pixellated and light plays via contrasting matte-shine materials. Fringes remain strong for the American market, while
decorative ribbons and trims increase in line with the upswing in artisan looks and handloom artistry seen in wovens.
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Adalberto Estampados
www.adalbertoestampados.com
Özdoku Tekstil
www.ozdoku.com
Akerler Tekstil
www.aker.com.tr
Preview
laurent@preview-collection.fr
Akin Tekstil
www.akintekstil.com.tr
Ricamificio Gimar
www.ricamificio-gimar.it
Arvind
www.arvind.com
Ricamificio Levi
info@ricamificiolevi.it
Debs Corporation
www.debscorp.com
Ricamificio Lusi
www.lusi.it
Fantasie Tricot
www.fantasietricot.com
Shinkong Textile
www.sktextile.com.tw
Idepa
idepa.com
Simona B
www.simonab.it
Lanificio Subalpino
www.lanificiosubalpino.com
Solstiss
www.solstiss.com
Liberty Art Fabrics
www.liberty.co.uk
Staff Jersey
www.staffjersey.it
Malhia Kent
www.malhia.fr
Shima Seiki
www.shimaseikiusa.com
Nastrificio De Bernardi
www.nastrificiodebernardi.com
Toschi Passamanerie
toschipassamanerie.com
Troficolor
www.troficolor.com
Yünsa
www.yunsa.com
Materials & Textiles > Textiles > Trade Shows > Trade Shows
Powered by TCPDF (www.tcpdf.org)