Uptown Unveiled CAF Tour Guide 2013
Transcription
Uptown Unveiled CAF Tour Guide 2013
Uptown UNVEILED COOL PLACES. 48 HOURS. GO. openhousechicago October 19-20, 2013 Uptown richly diverse, architecturally significant Welcome to Uptown Uptown is a singularly inclusive neighborhood of Chicago: it is a melting pot, blending the cultures and traditions of many nations, many faiths, and many people; it is a living history from Gangsters to the Gay Pride Parade; and since its early heyday in the 1920s, Uptown has been a vibrant neighborhood of dynamic change and extraordinary people. Here you will find unique dining, entertainment and shopping, while the history, art and architecture will fascinate you. Uptown United and Business Partners – The Chamber for Uptown welcome you to explore Chicago’s Uptown. To help you enjoy your visit to the Uptown Neighborhood, we have created a guide to highlight some of Uptown’s amazing heritage. This guide is conveniently divided into three regions North to South and is centered around the Chicago Architecture Foundation Open House Chicago sites to help you find your way through Uptown’s wealth of historic sites and intimate places. Region 1: West Argyle Street Historic District Uptown’s Asian Marketplace on Argyle Street has been home to a bustling community of Chinese, Vietnamese, Cambodian, Laotian, Thai, and other Southeast Asian communities since the 1970s; as such, it is often dubbed New Chinatown, Little Vietnam, and Little Saigon. The Argyle area first gained fame in the early years of the 20th Century when Charlie Chaplin joined Essanay Studios, one of the first film studios in the world. This part of Uptown remained home to a variety of entertainers through the 1960s and into the early 1970s, when Chicago’s original Chinatown population was being displaced by urban renewal in the South Loop, restaurateur Jimmy Wong, the Hip Sing Association, and others relocated northward to Argyle Street, giving the area its now distinctive Asian character. The Argyle corridor has grown to include a diverse mix of Southeast Asian businesses and residents and now spreads outward from Argyle Street itself onto Broadway, with new and old shops and long-time family run restaurants. Region 2: Historic Uptown Square Traditionally known as the Historic Uptown Square, the area surrounding the intersection of Broadway and Lawrence tells the history of Uptown’s Roaring Twenties and the building boom of the early 20th century. Known for its terra cotta wonders and magnificent theaters, the Historic Uptown Square is now in the middle of a 21st century renaissance. In the last decade, several prominent structures have been rejuvenated or have gained a new lease on life. The Riviera, Aragon, and Green Mill draw thousands of music fans and many in the area hope that the now vacant Uptown Theater will soon have funding to undergo its own rebirth. Uptown’s Entertainment District of old would be proud that nearly 100 years later the area is coming back into its own as one of Chicago’s hottest neighborhoods. This area of Uptown was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places in 2001. Region 3: Wilson Avenue and Sheridan Road Not far from the Historic Uptown Square is what was once Uptown’s original major shopping strip. With the Northwestern Elevated Railroad’s terminus at Wilson and Broadway, and with the numerous theaters and restaurants in the area, this section of Uptown became increasingly populated throughout the early 20th century. Toward Sheridan and Wilson you can see some the grand residential hotels of the 1920s while closer to Broadway is the soon to be renovated Beaux-Arts style Arthur Gerber Uptown Station (which replaced an earlier two-story 1909 Frank Lloyd Wright designed Stohr Arcade Building). Other architectural and artistic gems line the East and South of Uptown Square. openhousechicago uptown sites Region 1: West Argyle Street Historic District 1. A gudas Achim North Shore Congregation 2. E ssanay Studios (St. Augustine College) 5029 N. Kenmore Ave 1333-45 W. Argyle St Region 2: Historic Uptown Square 3. Bridgeview Bank 4. Green Mill 4753 N. Broadway 4802 N. Broadway Region 3: Wilson Avenue and Sheridan Road 5. F LATS Studio (TCF Bank) 1050 W. Wilson Ave 7. F riendly Towers (Chelsea Hotel) 920 W. Wilson Ave 9. 4 750 GreenRise Uptown (Institute of Cultural Affairs) 4750 N. Sheridan Rd 6. S heridan Plaza Apartments (Sheridan Plaza Hotel) 4607 N. Sheridan Rd 8. G arfield-Clarendon Model Railroad Club 4501 N. Clarendon Ave 10. P reston Bradley Center (The Peoples Church) 941 W. Lawrence Ave openhousechicago 1 12 00 W Argyle St 5000 N La Argyle St 5000 N ke Margate Ter Sh ore Ainslie St Ainslie St Br oa dw Gunnison St Foster Ave 5200 N Winona St Carmen Ave Argyle St 5000 N ay 2 Foster Ave 5200 N Winona St Winnemac Ave Carmen Ave M ar Gunnison St ine Eastwood Ave Ave Kenmo re Ave Eastwood Ave 6 7 Wilson Ave 4600 N Wilson Ave 4600 N Special Open House Arts Program: 5 Artists / 5 Spaces Windsor Ave 3. Bridgeview Bank – Carron Little, as Queen of Luxuria, offers an interactive performance that invites the visitor’s participation. 1– 3pm. 9. ICA-Greenrise – Nathan Mason presents a series of photographs of peoples’ everyday clothing & accessories in the wood-paneled executive offices. 10. Preston Bradley Center – performers from A House Unbuilt present a site / situation-adaptive performance engaging the small gestures and quiet movements of bodies. 2– 4pm. Performances/installations sponsored by Uptown United / SSA#34 and curated by Uptown artist Eden Unluata. More at edenunluata.com. St 8. Clarendon Park Field House – Misty DeBerry will create an environment based off of peace circles where stories are shared and connections made. Hazel Architecture is the binding of Uptown’s storybook. If the walls could speak they would tell many rich stories. Five artists will present the stories of the five Uptown sites listed below: 2. Essanay Studios – Hale Ekinci presents a video installation connecting Uptown’s film heritage history and the visiting audience. on Bro Leland Ave d ren 5 Lakeside Pl Cla W Sheridan Rd 1000 W thro Win Leland Ave 0 y 120 a w d a 10 9 pA ve e Lin ed CT AR eA ve cin Ra Dr Lawrence Ave 4800 N Lawrence Ave 4800 N North ive Castlewood Ter 4 3 Dr 8 Sunnyside Ave Courtesy: UIC Asian American Resource and Cultural Center Region 1: West Argyle Street Historic District While visiting the West Argyle Street Historic District, which was added to the National Register of Historic Places in June of 2010, be sure to try Asian specialties including Pho — the famous Vietnamese beef noodle dish — at one of the street’s first Vietnamese restaurants (Pho 777) or at one of the other popular restaurants: Tank Noodle or Hai Yen. Gather for Dim Sum at Furama or Silver Seafood — Chinese “tapas” of small plates and steamed basket goodies — or enjoy Hong Kong-style BBQ duck at family-run Sun Wah BBQ Restaurant. For Cantonese fare, visit Hon Kee Restaurant. For a quick sandwich on the go, try Ba Le for the best in French-Vietnamese Bahn Mi. For dessert celebrate fall with a Chinese mooncake or stop in to try one of the French-Asian inspired delights at La Patisserie P. On the way to Agudas Achim Synagogue, be sure to visit two community-based murals: the “Roots of Argyle” on the side of Hoa Nam Grocery at southwest corner of Winthrop & Argyle; and the John Vietnam Mural a few steps down the alley next to the parking lot of Viet Hoa Plaza Grocery (1051 W. Argyle). “The Roots of Argyle” celebrates the community, its diversity and its important individuals from 1900-2000. DePaul University muralist Brother Mark Elder chose the arched front Highlights for Eats and Drinks American Fare/Brunch Big Chicks/Tweet: 5020 N. Sheridan / 773.728.5576 Asian Bakeries Chiu Quon: 1127 W. Argyle / 773.907.8888 La Patisserie P: 1050 W. Argyle / 773.878.3226 Thai Pastry and Restaurant: 4925 N. Broadway / 773.784.5399 Chinese/Dim Sum Furama: 4936 N. Broadway / 773.271.1161 Silver Seafood: 4829 N. Broadway / 773.784.0668 Uptown doorway of the old Essanay Studios façade as the architectural motif: each of the 20-year generation periods of represented by a doorway façade or portal. More at uptownunited.org. The second mural was realized in autumn 2012 as a memorial to hip-hop artist & poet John “Vietnam” Nguyen. John was raised in Uptown and known for his positivity, civic engagement, and lyrics about identity & multiculturalism. While at University of Wisconsin-Madison on a scholarship, he drowned saving a friend in Lake Mendota, WI. The mural lovingly incorporates various aspects of John’s short but rich life in a brightly colored, travel postcard style playing on his nickname “Vietnam.” Special Events: Buildings of interest on Argyle that are not part of Open House Chicago include the recently “green” renovated Harold Washington Apartments (4946 N. Sheridan Rd.) operated as supportive housing by Mercy Housing Lakefront, what was once the Argmore Theater opened in 1913 (1040 W. Argyle St.), and a marvelous terra cotta building on the Southeast corner of Kenmore and Argyle. Each are contributing structures to the West Argyle Historic District. Vintage Garage Chicago 5051 N. Broadway vintagegaragechicago.com Final monthly vintage flea market of the season. Sunday, October 20 9am-5pm Midnight Circus in the Parks at Margate Park 4921 N. Marine Dr. circusintheparks.org Saturday, October 19 2pm and 5pm Sunday, October 20 1pm and 4pm As you continue East on Argyle Street be sure to head ½ block North on Sheridan Rd. and visit Tweet to take in the magnificent Art Deco facade. Stop in to check out owner Michelle Fire’s collection of vintage plates and original art & photography. If you can, stay for brunch made from locally-grown produce, or just stay for a Bloody Mary — some of the best in Uptown. If you are here late, stay for the late night entertainment at the adjacent Big Chicks, Uptown’s original LGBT-friendly neighborhood bar. French/Vietnamese Sandwiches Ba Le: 5014 N. Broadway / 773.561.4424 Chinese/BBQ Sun Wah BBQ: 5039 N. Broadway / 773.769.1254 Hon Kee Restaurant: 1064 W. Argyle / 773.878.6650 Indian & Thai Masala Indian & Thai Cuisine: 1002 W. Argyle / 773.769.5555 Traditional Vietnamese Fare Pho 777: 1065 W. Argyle / 773.561.9909 Hai Yen: 1055 W. Argyle / 773.561.4077 Tank Noodle: 4953 N. Broadway / 773.878.2253 Photo by Dave Suarez Region 2: Historic Uptown Square North of Lawrence When in the heart of Uptown to visit the Bridgeview Bank Building and Green Mill, be sure to note other contributing buildings to Historic Uptown Square: Chicago Public Library Bezazian Branch, 1226 W. Ainslie; The Gunnison Street Lofts, 4840 N. Broadway; Borders /Goldblatt’s Building, 4718 N. Broadway; Uptown Broadway Building, 4703-4715 N. Broadway; Uptown U.S. Post Office, 4850 N. Broadway; Aragon Ballroom, 1106 W. Lawrence; Riviera Theatre, 4746 N. Racine; and the Uptown Theatre, 4816 N. Broadway and the Uptown Theater, 4816 N. Broadway. At the North end of the district sits the Bezazian Library. This 1957 building was designed by the prolific Paul Gerhardt Jr. and honors the memory of Lieutenant Harold A. Bezazian, World War II hero and resident of the Uptown neighborhood, who died March 1945 rescuing his 6th Infantry Division at the battle of Luzon. On Broadway between Ainslie & Gunnison you cannot help but notice the Uptown Post Office and its simple yet striking Art Deco facade flanked by watchful eagles carved by Croatian immigrant Paul K. Sturdy. Enter the building or peek through the front doors to see the original 1943 Works Projects Administration murals by painter/ceramicist Henry Varnum Poor (The WPA was a New Deal Era program that employed thousands of out of work Americans during the Great Depression of the 1930s. Many public buildings of this era incorporated public art from the program). These murals celebrate the people of Chicago, and focus on well-known Uptown writer Carl Sandburg and renowned architect Louis Sullivan. Looking South from the Post Office you will notice an Art Deco terra cotta beauty that houses Fat Cat Bar and Lao Sze Chuan, as well as 22 condo units above. This is the Gunnison Highlights for Eats and Drinks African Fare: Demera Ethiopian Restaurant: 4801 N. Broadway / 773.334.8787 American Fare: Crew Bar + Grill: 4804 N. Broadway / 773.784.2739 Fat Cat: 4840 N. Broadway / 773.506.3100 Persian Fare: Caravan: 4810 N. Broadway / 773.271.6022 Uptown Lofts Building, a contributing structure to the Historic Uptown Square National Historic Register District. Completed in 1926, the Gunnison Lofts Building initially housed the Spiegel Furniture Store and later served as retail outpost for the Nelson Brothers and Heilig-Meyers furniture store chains. The building was renovated as a mixed-use project in the early 2000s. Then, of course, there is what was once the heart of the Historic Entertainment District: the Uptown Theater. Originally called the Balaban & Katz Uptown Theater, this terra cotta wonder, designed as one of the largest and most luxurious movie palaces of its day, was created by Rapp and Rapp at a cost of about three million dollars when it opened on August 18, 1925. The Uptown Theater is larger than Radio City Music Hall in NYC, occupying over 46,000 square feet, seating up to 4,381 people, and once had its grand lobby lined with one-of-a-kind artworks. After World War II the movie theater business declined due to suburbanization and the growth of television, but the Uptown Theater stayed open by showing second run and other films until the the 1970s when it was refashioned as a major music venue. The eight story theater was eventually closed in December, 1981 and water damage, due to owner negligence during that first winter, has resulted in the theater’s longtime closure; notwithstanding, the Uptown Theater is still one of Chicago’s most magnificent buildings and is recognized as such by being on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places as well as being designated an official Chicago Landmark inside and out. Purchased in 2008 by Chicago-based Jam Productions, renewed efforts to restore and reopen the Uptown Theater are ongoing. The Aragon Ballroom is the second of the three great theaters in Uptown Square. The Aragon was built in 1926 by the Karzas brothers at a cost of $2 million. It was named after a province in Spain and designed to replicate a Spanish palace courtyard with its crystal chandeliers, mosaic tiles, garishly painted plaster, terra-cotta ceiling and beautiful arches. The shiny bent wood floor was created for dancing and rests on a cushion of cork, felt and springs. Artificial stars twinkle overhead and projectors beam clouds scudding across the domed roof some 60 feet above the dance floor. Playing the Aragon was regarded then and now as having obtained “big-time” status. Among the acts who have performed in the old hall were Big Band Era greats like Frank Sinatra, Tommy Dorsey, Glenn Miller, Benny Goodman, and later rock legends like Grateful Dead, Jethro Tull, Steppenwolf, The Kinks, Iggy Pop, The Rolling Stones, and Nirvana. More can be found at aragon.com. Mexican Fare: Carmela’s Taqueria: 1206 W. Lawrence / 773.275.5321 Fiesta Mexicana: 4806 N. Broadway / 773.769.4244 Chinese Fare: Lao Sze Chuan: 4832 N. Broadway/ 773.293.4653 Silver Seafood: 4829 N. Broadway / 773.784-0668 Cocktails: Uptown Lounge: 1136 W. Lawrence / 773.878.1136 Photo by Dave Suarez Region 2: Historic Uptown Square South of Lawrence Older sibling to the Uptown and opening in 1918, the third great theatre here is the the Riviera. It too was designed by Rapp & Rapp and became the second major theater of the Balaban & Katz chain. The auditorium originally seated over 2500 and the building featured eight storefronts and over 30 apartments. Featuring movies accompanied by an orchestra, the Riviera also featured “high class” musical acts onstage. The theater mainly catered to the uppermiddle class residents of the Uptown area, especially women. The Riviera continued to remain one of the neighborhood’s most popular movie houses for decades, even once the almost 4500-seat Uptown Theatre opened just down the street. After closing as a movie theater, it became first a nightclub in the mid-1980s, and a few years later, became established as one of Chicago’s most premier concert & special events venues. Stabilization work in September 2013 led to removal and storage of the Riviera’s deteriorated — and heavy — terra cotta cornice for eventual rehab. In the meantime, the Riviera’s owners at JAM Productions painted a whimsical representation of the cornice onto the temporary plywood placeholder. A quick glance may fool you, but look closely as you pass by. South of Lawrence on Broadway is a trio of structures called the Borders or Goldblatt’s Building. Recently renovated to house Borders Books, the original 1910 Neo-Classical two-story building (the darker stone building on the North end of the block) was built for the Sheridan Trust and Savings Bank. Not long after occupying the 1910 building, the Sheridan Trust and Savings Bank moved to larger quarters across the street to what is now the Bridgeview Bank Building, the legacy of which can still be seen in the wrought iron grating where an “S” proudly invites you to Bridgeview Bank’s grand staircase and great banking hall. The original Sheridan Trust and Savings Bank building did not remain empty long: the Highlights for Eats and Drinks African Fare: Iyanze Restaurant: 4623 N. Broadway / 773.944.1417 City Diners: Golden House Restaurant & Pancake House: 4744 N. Broadway / 773.334.0406 Japanese Fare/Sushi: Agami Sushi: 4712 N. Broadway / 773.506.1845 (Dinner Only) Thai Fare: Thai Uptown: 4621 N. Broadway / 773.561.9999 Uptown Photo by David Suarez Across Broadway from the Borders/Goldblatt’s building, take in the Spanish Baroque Polychromatic/ Rocco Fantasia style terra cotta wonder that is the Uptown Broadway Building. Built in 1926 under architect Walter W. Ahlschlager, this ornate building has been listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places since 1986 and is rumored to once have housed an Al Capone speakeasy. For longtime Uptowners this is the “Al Capone building” because of the underground tunnels that allegedly link this to other Uptown buildings. While here at 4703-4715 N. Broadway make sure you peer through the front doors to see a magnificent entryway and then step back and notice all of the details in the terra cotta: gods and goddesses, fruit and urns, shields, animals, and war booty. Photo by Eric Shropshire adjacent Loren Miller Department Store, which occupied the c.1915 five story white terra cotta building in the center of the block, expanded into the former bank and combined the two spaces. Longtime Chicago retailer Goldblatt’s took over from Lauren Miller in 1931 and eventually expanded into the third building on the triangular block, the Plymouth (or Uptown) Hotel, bringing together the original Sheridan Trust and Savings Bank Building, the Loren Miller Department Store Building, and the Plymouth Hotel, occupying all until 1998. The Plymouth Hotel, built in 1912 under designer George Kingsley, was located on the the South end of the block; famous silent film stars like Charlie Chaplin and Gloria Swanson stayed here when filming at Uptown’s Essanay Studios. Amidst controversy, the Plymouth Hotel was demolished in 2003 and was replaced by the two-story mixed-use building you see presently. The new building gives a nod to the original building with a section of terra cotta detail from the Plymouth Hotel visible in the entryway on the Racine side of the building. The former Borders retail space has recently been acquired by new ownership. Postcard courtesy of Compass Rose Region 3: Wilson Avenue and Sheridan Road While visiting the grand Sheridan Plaza or Chelsea Hotel, the historic Preston Bradley Center, the grand FLATS Studio, the ICA-Greenrise, and Clarendon Park Fieldhouse, be sure not to miss a few other points of interest in this part of historic Uptown. Beginning with the striking white terra cotta McJunkin Building (4554 N. Broadway) built on the original site of the lower Wilson train stop, this 1923 Arthur Gerber building originally housed Chicago Rapid Transit (now the CTA) and today remains host to a variety of shops, offices, and restaurants. New to Open House Chicago is the FLATS Studio (1050 W. Wilson). Don’t let the former bank interior’s grandness distract you from the equally grand trompe l’oeil mural on the building’s east wall designed by muralist Richard Haas whose work includes the Sullivaneque trompe l’oeil at Division & LaSalle. Note the lone person and accompanying greyhound at ground level. Behind the FLATS Studio on Winthrop Avenue is the Winthrop Family Community Garden. Originally conceived as a way for neighbors to reclaim negative space, the Garden also recognizes a longer history: in the pre-World War II days of restrictive land covenants and legal segregation, the 4600 block of Winthrop Avenue was the only Uptown block available to African Americans for residence. “The Winthrop Family” now includes not only those African American pioneers but also their multi-generational families as well as the block’s current and diverse residents. With the formal dedication of the Garden in Fall 2009, the stories of this unique place continue on as gardeners work together to plant and harvest the offerings of this positive community space. Further East on Wilson is a grey limestone building now home to the Uptown Baptist Church (1001 W. Wilson). Initially built in 1900 as the North Shore Congregational Church, the corner of Wilson and Sheridan was chosen because “the area was bustling with potential converts, up to 250,000 people every 24 hours” or so the old advertisements say. The sign high atop the church reminding passersby that “Christ Died For Our Sins” has been an Uptown fixture for many decades. At 939 W. Wilson between the Sheridan Plaza and Chelsea Hotel is the Wilson Abbey building. The owners of the Chelsea (Friendly Towers) are near completion on a gut-renovation to Highlights for Eats and Drinks American Fare/Brunch: Inspiration Kitchens: 4715 N. Sheridan / 773.275.0626 Palla’s Grill: 4570 N. Broadway / 773.728.7000 Asian Fusion: Dib Thai & Sushi: 1025 W. Lawrence / 773.561.0200 this former auto storage facility and burlesque house into a multi-purpose center with auditorium, rehearsal spaces, classrooms, coffeehouse, etc. for the Jesus People USA congregation. While visiting the Clarendon Park Fieldhouse (4500 N. Clarendon) to see the amazing model railroad, take note that the structure was originally a lakeside beachhouse. In 1916, Chicago opened the Clarendon Municipal Beach, featuring an impressive brick building with two stately towers, separate open-air locker areas for men and women, and two smaller buildings housing a laundry and a children’s playroom. As the lakefront moved eastward in the late ’30s with parkland and Lake Shore Drive extensions via landfill, the beachhouse was modified to serve as a fieldhouse. Its distinctive tile roof & towers were removed in the early ’70s, and in 2000, local artists Patricia Murphy & Ginny Sykes helped design and install the colorful mosaics that adorn the exterior. Some other nearby community art highlights include: Covering the Wilson Ave. wall of Uplift Community High School (900 W. Wilson), is a 2010 bricolage mural designed by teens from After School to foster hope, social justice, history, and connectivity in diversity to the Uptown Community; The sparkling Alternatives Inc. bricolage (at 4730 N. Sheridan Rd.) invites teenagers to engage in empowerment and education. The building was originally the Lakeside Theater and prior to its current use as a youth center, it served as home of Columbia College’s Dance Center; and The ICA GreenRise Building “Uptown Mural” (south wall of parking lot across from 4750 N. Sheridan), created in 2005 by Paul Noah of the Institute of Cultural Affairs, expresses the idea of embracing diversity in Uptown. Feeling peckish? Try some of the excellent cuisine that this part of Uptown has to offer including brunch from Inspiration Kitchens where you can “dine well and do good”, dishes inspired by the culture of Mexico City at La Cuidad Mexican Cafe & Grill, or Thai food from the oldest Thai restaurants in Chicago: Siam Cafe, and Siam Noodle and Rice. Cafe: Citizen Skate/Cafe: 924 W. Wilson / 773.751.5809 Mexican Fare: La Cuidad Mexican Cafe & Grill: 4515 N. Sheridan / 773.728.2887 Thai Fare: Siam Cafe: 4712 N. Sheridan / 773.989.0157 Siam Noodle and Rice Restaurant: 4654 N. Sheridan / 773.769.6694 Photo by Eric Shropshire Uptown Uptown United is an Illinois not-for-profit corporation serving the Uptown community on Chicago’s North Side. Uptown United is dedicated to providing assistance to businesses and economic investors located in Uptown, to initiating and participating in strategic planning, to encouraging economic development in order to strengthen the community’s economic base, to addressing broad issues pertaining to the quality of life for Uptown’s diverse population, and to acting as a network, encouraging partnerships by facilitating strategic land use, community programs, economic and development projects. Uptown United works within a partnership structure that includes Community Partners, Development Partners and Business Partners – The Chamber for Uptown. Thank You for Visiting Uptown Uptown United / Uptown Special Service Area #34 4753 N. Broadway, Suite 822, Chicago, Illinois 60640 773.878.1064 www.uptownunited.org Business Partners – The Chamber for Uptown 773.878.1184 www.uptownbusinesspartners.com Cover photos: Bridgeview Bank interior by David Suarez, Essanay Studios façade and 4750 GreenRise exterior courtesy of the Chicago Architecture Foundation, Agudas Achim Synagogue interior by Susanne Helmert. Graphic design by Creative Quadrant Inc., www.creativequadrant.com This publication was partially funded by Uptown SSA#34 and the City of Chicago Department of Housing & Economic Department.