BIG BEND - City of Presidio, Texas

Transcription

BIG BEND - City of Presidio, Texas
Contents
BIG BEND AND TEXAS MOUNTAINS TRAVEL GUIDE
Welcome to the Guide
10 Regional Map
12 Calendar of Events
15 National & State Parks
8
Big Bend National Park
Guadalupe Mountains National Park
City Listings
25
32
35
38
42
44
47
51
53
55
56
60
62
63
64
Alpine
El Paso
Fort Davis
Fort Stockton
Lajitas
Marathon
Marfa
Midland
Odessa
Ozona
Presidio
Terlingua/Study Butte
Toyahvale/Balmorhea
Van Horn
Features
Photography in the Big Bend
featuring James Evans
Texas Mountain Trail
Last Look
GREG HILLJE
72
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 7
Publisher’s Letter
Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide! This is the
second year that I’ve had the privilege of publishing
this travel guide. It has been published once a year since
1984, which is pretty impressive! I’d like to thank Beth
Nobles and Ron Sanders with the Texas Mountain
Trail for their commitment to the travel guide and for
the opportunity given to our team to publish it. I love
to travel throughout the area, and even before I became
the publisher I carried the publication with me for vital
information and tips. It’s an incredible resource for anyone wishing to explore the region. For example, you’ll
find information on various parks (state and national), as
well as a city-by-city guide. In addition, there is a feature
about photography in the Big Bend. One of the main subjects of this story is the renowned
photographer, James Evans, who is based in Marathon. I remember on one of my very first
trips to the region I met James, who told me that he decided to move to the region on his
third trip to the area. It only took me a couple more trips to decide to establish a residence in
Alpine. The allure of the Big Bend region is strong and whether you’re a first-time or repeat
visitor I hope you have a wonderful time in this amazing part of Texas.
We have many important contributors to the travel guide, and you can read about some
of them on this page, but in addition I’d like to thank the guide’s designer, Martha GazellaTaylor, who was born and raised in Odessa and went to Permian High School. As far as my
background, I wear a few hats. In addition to being the publisher and founder of Texas Music
magazine, I am currently working with the City of Alpine as tourism director. I also produce
Viva Big Bend, which is held in Alpine, Fort Davis, Marathon and Marfa (our music festival
is the last weekend of July each year).
I hope you’ll find as much enjoyment in visiting this area as we do in promoting it. Thank
you for reading the 2014/15 Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide, and happy trails!
— Stewart Ramser
A MESSAGE FROM
Texas Mountain Trail
WELCOME TO the beautiful mountains of far West
Texas, to our quiet communities, to our colorful sunsets
and to our frontier! Our Texas Mountain Trail nonprofit organization is proud to present the latest edition
of the Big Bend and Texas Mountain Travel Guide with
Ramser Media, and we hope it helps you get the most
out of your stay. Since 2005, we’ve been reaching out
to travelers with information about far West Texas,
encouraging folks to spend their vacations in our mountains. We’ve also worked with community leaders here
to make the region more visitor-friendly by developing
programs like the Far West Texas Wildlife Trail and
our cycle-friendly hotels and heritage bike routes. Let
us know what you think of the Guide, and ways we can
make your stay more enjoyable. Kick back, enjoy the quiet, seek your adventure and have the
time of your life! — Beth Nobles
8 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
Contributors
James Evans
Originally from West Virginia, James Evans has been
based in Marathon for 25 years, and is perhaps the
most well known photographer of the Big Bend
region. Two very popular books showcase his artistry: Big Bend Pictures and Crazy from the Heat. In
an Austin American-Statesman, Evans explains the
appeal of the region. “The vastness of it all, the freedom you feel when you’re in the parl ... in a week I
was sold.”
Martha Gazella-Taylor
Martha GazellaTaylor is the
designer for the
Big Bend & Texas
Mountains Travel
Guide. She hails
from Odessa, the
“big city” of West
Texas. She has
since moved,
gone to school ,
started a family and created a graphic design business in Austin. Texas. Ironically it wasn’t until she
moved to Austin — with it’s religious appreciation
of fitness and the outdoors — ­that she found herself trekking back to Far West Texas to see for the
first time what the parks had to offer. She has been
hooked ever since.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: MAY LEAL, COURTESY JIM GLENDINNING, COURTESY JESSICA LUTZ, COURTESY BETH NOBLES
THANK YOU for picking up a copy of the 2014/15 Big
Map
Must a
n
62
180
Paso
ElEl
Paso
62
Red Bluff
Reservoir
Kermit
302
CULBERSON
17
20
oG
Ri
Balmorhea
Van Horn
n
ra
Toyahvale
de
MEXICO
MEXICO
Kent
10
Lake
Toyah
Pecos River
329
18
137
385
Rankin
163
Big Lake
67
67
163
349
Bu
Iraan
10
JEFF DAVIS
158
Sterling City
87
REAGAN
McCamey
Fort
Stockton
Balmorhea
Lake
329
385
Co
Rivncho
er
STERLING
349
UPTON
163
rth
Garden
City
Crane
CRANE
Imperial
Reservoir
GLASSCOCK
MIDLAND
Penwell
87
No
Odessa
Monahans
reek
Sierra Blanca
Pecos
Stanton
158
302
ECTOR
20
115
WARD
REEVES
MOUNTAIN STAND
ARD TIME
CENTRAL STANDARD
TIME
10
302
WINKLER
Wink
HUDSPETH
54
1111
Midland
158
Toyah
C
20
20
349
18
LOVING
Socorro
Soccorro
San
SanElizario
Elizario
176
115
128
180
GUADALUPE
MOUNTAINS
NATIONAL PARK
MARTIN
raw
Dell City
•
EL PASO
Andrews
ANDREWS
NEW
MEXICO
NEW MEXICO
54
137
D
g
10
349
115
385
176
ck
ho
190
349
137
rn
Dr 190
aw
17
90
PECOS
166
Fort Davis
505
Ozona
Sheffield
277
BREWSTER
67
Sonora
285
CROCKET T
TERRELL
349
90
Marathon
2810
PRESIDIO
SUT TON
South Llano
River
Ri
ve
r
VAL VERDE
118
Dryden
277
EDWARDS
Shafter
90
385
Langtry
Stillwell
Ranch
377
Grande
RioRio
Grande
Comstock
Presidio
Presidio
BIG BEND RANCH
STATE PARK
Study
Terlingua Butte
Lajitas
Lajitas
BIG
BEND
NATIONAL
PARK
Chisos
Basin
Castolon
Heath
Heath
Canyon
Canyon
e
or
m
ca k
Sy Cree
Del
Rio
Amistad
International
Reservoir
Ciudad
Ciudad
Acuña
Acuña
PUBLISHER: Stewart Ramser
EDITOR: Tom Buckley
DESIGN: Martha Gazella-Taylor
ADVERTISING DESIGN & PRODUCTION:
Lisa Reiley
CONTRIBUTORS: James Evans, Beth Nobles
PHOTOGRAPHERS: Beth Nobles, James, Evans, Will Van
Overbeek courtesy Texas Department of Transportation,
J. Griffis Smith courtesy Texas Department of
Transportation
67
55
Rio Grande
Grande
Village
Village
Bracketville
90
277
KINNEY
131
G U I D E
41
Rocksprings
277
377
T R A V E L
377
55
BREWSTER
AND TEXAS
MOUNTAINS
MAVERICK
57
Eagle Pass
Piedras
Negras
TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL BOARD OF DIRECTORS
AND EX-OFFICIO MEMBERS
Ron Sanders — Forever Resorts, Alpine
Rebecca Diaz — Hyatt Place, El Paso
David Elkowitz — Big Bend National Park
Melanie Gentry — Dell City
David Gibson — Sul Ross State University, Alpine
Linda Hedges — TPWD
Fort Stockton
Elizabeth Jackson — Museum of the Big Bend,
Alpine
Michael Lewis — El Paso County Historical
Commission, El Paso
Chelsie Melendez — El Paso Convention and Visitors
Bureau, El Paso
COVER PHOTO: James Evans
John Morlock — Fort Davis National Historic Site
Travis Roberts —Brewster County Historical Commission,
Marathon
The Big Bend Travel Guide is licensed
Drew Stuart —Hudspeth County Herald and Dell Valley for publication by the Texas Mountain
Review, Dell City
Trail. © 2014 All rights reserved.
Jennifer Turner — Mountain Trails Lodge, Fort Davis
277
Rio Grande
18
285
10
Fort Stockton
High School
In the spring of 2013, the border crossing at Boquillas
reopened as a result of enthusiastic advocates in both
the United States and Mexican governments. Consider
making a trip there yourself! While a travel advisory is
in place from the U.S. State Department for travel in
Mexico, residents of the Big Bend area continue to enjoy
an extremely low incidence rate, and a visible, supportive law enforcement presence.
67
67
67
67
67
67
10
385
194
385
1 mile
e
nd
Gra
O
IC
1 mile
385
67
285
385
285
James
Rooney
Memorial
Park
Pat
Taylor
Field
Rio
EX
M
10 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
10
285
67
194
Presidio
170
285
377
83
Llano River
Junction
Telegraph
ver
West Nu eces Ri
67
os
90
Sanderson
Ruidosa
Pe
c
163
North
10
River
385
Alpine
Marfa 67
Devils
118
17
KIMBLE
10
83
10
CALENDAR of events
BIG BEND AND TEX AS MOUNTAINS AREA • SUMMER 2015–SPRING 2015
“Coolest” 4th of July
Celebration
Downtown Fort Davis
www.fortdavis.com
See p. 36 for details
FIRECRACKER FANDANGO
Downtown Odessa
www.odessacvb.com
2014 Date: July 4
Mustang and Cowboy Chili
Cook-off
Marathon Motel
Marathon
www.marathontexas.com
2014 Dates: July 4–7;
See p. 46 for details
Tall City Blues Fest
Centennial Plaza
Midland
www.tallcitybluesfest.com
2014 Dates: July 25–27
Viva Big Bend
Music Festival
Multiple venues
Alpine, Fort Davis, Marathon,
Marfa and Lajitas
www.vivabigbend.com
2014 Dates: July 22–27;
See ad on p. 49
AUGUST 2014
Big Bend Balloon Bash
Alpine-Casparis Airport
Alpine
www.bigbendballoonbash.com
2014 Dates: Aug. 30–31, Sept. 1
See p. 28 for details
viva terlingua
Terlingua and Lajitas
www.facebook.com/
vivaterlinguafest
2014 Dates: Aug. 14–17
Davis Mountains Hummingbird Festival
Limpia Hotel & various locations
Fort Davis
www.fortdavis.com
2014 Dates: Aug. 21–23
Permian Basin Gun Show
Ector County Coliseum
Odessa
www.ectorcountycoliseum.org
2014 Dates: Aug. 22–24
Rock the Desert
RTD Festival Field
Midland
www.rockthedesert.com
2014 Dates: Aug. 7–9
Plaza Classic Film Festival
Various Venues
El Paso
www.plazaclassic.com
2014 Dates: Aug. 7–17
Marfa Lights Festival
County Courthouse
Marfa
www.visitmarfa.com
2014 Dates: Labor Day Weekend
See p. 48 for details
Old Fort Days
Fort Davis National Historic Site
Fort Davis
www.fortdavis.com
2014 Date: Labor Day Weekend
Big Bend Ranch Rodeo
S.A.L.E. Arena, Sul Ross University
Alpine
www.bigbendranchrodeo.com
2014 Dates: Aug. 8–9
See p. 28 for details
The annual Big Bend Balloon
Bash is held each year in
Alpine on Labor Day weekend.
SEPTEMBER 2014
Cyclefest
Prude Ranch
Fort Davis
www.pbbatx.com
See p. 36 for details
Fort Davis Frontier and
Mule Days
Downtown Fort Davis
Fort Davis
www.fortdavis.com
2014 Dates: Sept. 26–27
Trans-Pecos Festival
El Cosmico
Marfa
www.elcosmico.com
2014 Dates: Sept. 25–28
See p. 48 for details
National Public Lands Day
Big Bend National Park
www.publiclandsday.org
2014 Date: Sept. 27
See p. 19 for details
Permian Basin Fair
Ector County Coliseum
Odessa
www.permianbasinfair.com
2014 Dates: Sept. 5–13
Permian Basin
Intertribal Powwow
Odessa College Sports Center
Odessa
www.odessacvb.net
2014 Dates: Sept. 26–27
Septemberfest
Museum of the Southwest
Midland
www.museumsw.org
First weekend after Labor Day
2014 Dates: Sept. 5–7
West Fest
Post Park
Marathon
www.marathontexas.com/
2014 Dates: Sept. 20–21
See p. 46 for details
Wild West ChilE Fest
Hudspeth County Fairgrounds
Dell City
www.wildwestchilefest.com
Dates 2014: TBA
OCTOBER 2014
Chinati Weekend
Chinati
Marfa
www.chinati.org
2014 Dates: TBA
See p. 48 for details
12 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
Dude of the Dead Festival is held
in Presidio in October.
CAF Airsho
CAF Headquarters
Midland International Airport
www.airsho.org
2014 Dates: Oct. 11–12
Dude of the Dead Music
Festival
Presidio Drag Race Track
Presidio
www.dudeofthedead.net
2014 Dates: Oct. 24–26
Marathon 2 Marathon
Marathon, Fort Stockton
www.marathon2marathon.net
2014 Date: Oct. 25
See p. 46 for details
ride4trails
Big Bend Resort & Adventures
Study Butte
www.ride4trails.com
2014 Dates: Oct. 17–18
Arts & Crafts Fair
Fort Davis
www.fortdavis.com/calendar.
html
2014 Date: Nov. 29
Cowboy Social
Ritchey Building
Marathon
www.marathontexas.com
2014 Dates: First Sunday
in November
See p. 46 for details
Terlingua International
Chili Championship
Rancho CASI de los Chisos
www.chili.org
www.casichili.net
2014 Date: Nov. 1 (Main Event)
Trans-Pecos Big Buck
Tournament
Van Horn Convention Center &
Visitors Bureau
Van Horn
www.transpecosbigbuck.com
2014 Date: TBA
NOVEMBER 2014
Artwalk
Multiple venues
Alpine
www.artwalkalpine.com
2014 Dates: Nov. 21–22
See p. 27 for details
Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
FROM TOP: STEWART RAMSER, STEWART RAMSER
JULY 2014
DECEMBER 2014
MARCH 2015
Fiesta de Noche Buena
Presidio Arts Festival
Main Street
Marathon
www.marathontexas.com
2014 Dates : December 6
See p. 46 for details
Multiple venues
Presidio
www.presidiotx.us/arts
2015 Dates: TBA
Frontier Christmas
Franklin Mountains
Poppies Celebration
Memorial Square & Nature
Conservancy
Fort Davis
www.fortdavis.com
2014 Dates: Dec. 13
Museum of Archaeology
El Paso
www.franklinmountains.
blogspot.com
2015 Dates: TBA
Hyundai Sun Bowl
Sun Bowl Stadium
APRIL 2015
El Paso
www.sunbowl.org
2014 Date: Dec. 27
Pecan Dessert Contest/
Lighted Christmas parade
Hotel El Capitan
Van Horn
(432) 283-2050
2014 Date: TBA
Hammerfest
A TXRA sanctioned bike race
through the picturesque Davis
Mountains.
www.fortdavis.com
2015 Dates: TBA
The Texas Cowboy Poetry
Gathering is held on the campus of Sul Ross State University in
Alpine in late February.
Crude Fest
Star of Texas Ranch
Between Midland and Odessa
www.thecrudefest.com
2015 Dates: TBA
Cinemarfa
Multiple venues
Marfa
www.cinemarfa.org
2015 Dates: TBA
Fiesta West Texas
Ector County Coliseum
Odessa
www.myfiestawesttexas.com
2015 Dates: May 1–3
Cinco de Mayo Amatuer
Boxing Tournament
Kelly Outdoor Theatre
Fort Davis
www.fortdavis.com
2015 Dates: TBA
FROM TOP: STEWART RAMSER, COURTESY FORT STOCKTON CVB
The Big Bend Open Road Race
attracts car lovers from all over.
JANUARY 2015
El Paso Puzzler Endurance
Weekend
El Paso
http://puzzlerendurance.
wordpress.com
2015 Dates: TBA
Sandhills STOCK SHOW AND
RODEO
Ector County Coliseum
www.sandhillsssr.com
2015 Dates: Jan. 2–10
FEBRUARY 2015
El Paso Marathon
Trappings of Texas
Museum of the Big Bend on
Sul Ross State University campus
Alpine
www.sulross.edu/museum
2015 Dates: April 17–18 (opening)
Exhibit runs through April
Big Bend Open Road Race
Fort Stockton, Sanderson
www.bborr.com
2015 Dates: April 22–25
See p. 39 for details
Terlingua green scene
Community garden
Terlingua
www..terlinguagreenscene.com
2015 Date: TBA
First Thanksgiving
El Paso
www.elpasomarathon.org
2015 Date: Feb. 22
San Elizario Plaza
San Elizario
www.visitelpaso.com
2015 Date: TBA
Midessa Boat, RV,
Sport & Gun Show
Hueco Rock Rodeo
Ector County Coliseum
Odessa
www.midessaboatshow.net
2015 Dates: Feb. 6–8
Texas Cowboy Poetry
Gathering
Sul Ross State University
Alpine
www.texascowboypoetry.com
2015 Dates: Feb. 27–28
See p. 27 for details
Hueco Tanks State Park
El Paso
www.huecorodeo.com
2015 Dates: TBA
MAY 2015
Ballroom Weekend
Ballroom Marfa
Marfa
www.ballroommarfa.org
2015 Dates: TBA
See p. 48 for details
Texas Thunder Music
Festival
Texas Thunder Music Festival
North Chinaberry Avenue
Gardendale
www.texasthunderfest.com
2015 Dates: May 7–9
JUNE 2015
Marfa Film Festival
Various Venues
Marfa
www.marfafilmfestival.com
2015 Dates: Late June or early July
Mex-Tex Family Fiesta
Centennial Plaza
Midland
www.midlandhcc.com
2015 Dates: TBA
Summer Theatre Program
Sul Ross State University
Alpine
www.sulross.edu/tobb
2015 Dates: TBA
Frontier Days
Downtown
Van Horn
(432) 283-2050
2015 Dates: TBA
Alfresco! Fridays
Arts Festival Plaza
El Paso
elpasolive.com/alfresco_fridays
2015 Dates: TBA
MUSIC SERIES
County Line
Free Music Series
County Line at the State Line BBQ
El Paso
www.countyline.com
2015 Dates: TBA
Hot Summer Nights
with Cool Music
Noel Heritage Park
Odessa
www.mainstreetodessa.com
2015 Dates: TBA
Xxxxxxxxxx
Great Outdoors Expo
The Midland Horseshoe
Midland
www.texaspecostrail.com/
events/great-outdoors-expo
2015 Dates: TBA
Neon Desert Music Festival
Cleveland Square Park
El Paso
www.neondesertmusicfestival.com
2015 Dates: TBA
Padre’s Anniversary Party
Padre’s
Marfa
www.padresmarfa.com
2015 Dates: Memorial Day
weekend
See p. 48 for details
Xxxxxxxxxxxx
West of the Pecos Rodeo
Buck Jackson Arena
Pecos
www.pecosrodeo.com
2015 Dates: TBA
Summer off the Patio
Annie Riggs Museum
Fort Stockton
www.annieriggsmuseum.org
2015 Dates: TBA
Cool Canyon Nights
McKelligon Canyon
Amphitheatre
El Paso
www.visitelpaso.com
2015 Dates: TBA
For a complete listing of
events in the region, visit
www.texasmountaintrail.com.
Events organizers, you can list
your events free of charge on
the Texas Mountain Trail
website. Use the “Suggest
an Event” function on the
Partners dropdown menu at
www.texasmountaintrail.com.
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 13
BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK
Presidio
Parks
National & State
The largest state park in Texas, with
over 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan
Desert wilderness, the park embraces
some of the most remote and rugged
terrain in the Southwest. Mountain
bikers, hikers and equestrians enjoy
miles of trails that traverse “the other
side of nowhere.”
Presidio (432) 358-4444
(512) 389-8919 (reservations)
www.tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch
BARTON WARNOCK
VISITOR CENTER
Terlingua/Lajitas
The Center serves as the eastern
entrance to Big Bend Ranch State
Park. Exhibits interpret 570 million
years of geologic history and the
five biological landscapes of the
Chihuahuan Desert. It was named for
famed botanist and 33-year Sul Ross
State University professor Dr. Barton
Warnock (1911–1998).
Lajitas (432) 424-3327 www.
tpwd.state.tx.us/bartonwarnock
STEVE MCKINNEY/BIGDAWGIMAGES.NET
DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE
PARK
Fort Davis
T
HE STATE PARKS and State Historic Sites of the Big Bend and Texas Moun-
tains region showcase a panorama of West Texas scenes. From gushing spring
waters to lofty mile-high peaks, from the harsh grandeur of Chihuahuan Desert landscapes to museum-quality exhibits, Texas State Parks offer something
for every taste. Here you will find safe, secure and wholesome environments
for camping, picnicking, hiking, fishing, stargazing, hunting, rock climbing,
cycling, boating, floating, birding, swimming, horseback riding, interpretive programming or peace and quiet. Please stop in for a visit. You’ll be glad you did!
Davis Mountains State Park, 2,708.9
acres in size, is located in Jeff Davis
County, four miles northwest of
Fort Davis, approximately halfway
between Guadalupe Mountains
National Park and Big Bend National
Park. The original portion of the park
was deeded to the Texas Parks and
Wildlife Department by a local family.
Original improvements were made
by the Civilian Conservation Corps in
1933; the park has been open to the
public since the late 1930s, and formal
campground facilities were added
in 1967.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 16
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 15
declared a National Historic Site, and a
vast restoration/preservation program
was initiated by the National Park
Service.
Fort Davis (432) 426-3337 www.
tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/davismountains
BALMORHEA STATE PARK
Toyahvale
At 77,053 square feet, San Solomon
Spring is the focal point of Balmorhea
State Park. Twenty-two to 28 million gallons of crystalline water flow from the
spring each day. Visitors to Balmorhea
State Park enjoy swims in the Civilian
Conservation Corps-constructed
impoundment and, if staying overnight,
may choose to relax in one of the historic rooms at San Solomon Courts.
Toyahvale (432) 375-2370
(512) 389-8900 (reservations)
www.tpwd.state.tx.us/balmorhea
16 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
FORT LEATON STATE
HISTORIC SITE
Presidio
Fort Leaton is day-use only and offers
picnicking areas, tours through newly
restored and furnished rooms, plus
exhibits on the region’s history: from
15th-century conquistadors to Ben
Leaton’s 19th-century trading post to
the present. The fort also serves as the
western entrance for Big Bend Ranch
State Park.
Four miles east of Presidio on F.M.
170 (432) 229-3613
www.tpwd.state.tx.us/fortleatonw
TEXAS STATE PARK PASS
The Texas State Parks Pass is an annual
pass that offers many special benefits
to members. As a member, you and
your guests enjoy unlimited visits to
Texas State Parks, State Natural Areas
and State Historic Sites without paying the daily entrance fees. The cost is
$70 for a one-card membership. Learn
more at: www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/parkinfo/passes/
VISIT: WWW.TPWD.STATE.TX.US/
STATE-PARKS/
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE
OTHER AREA PARKS AND PARKS
ACROSS THE STATE OF TEXAS.
FROM LEFT: COURTESY DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK, COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION
The Davis Mountains, the most extensive mountain range in Texas, were
formed by volcanic activity during the
Tertiary geologic period, which began
around 65 million years ago. These
mountains were named after Jefferson Davis, U.S. secretary of war and
later president of the Confederacy,
who ordered the construction of the
Fort Davis army post. Few Americans
had seen the Davis Mountains prior
to 1846. After the war with Mexico,
a wave of gold seekers, settlers and
traders came through the area and
needed the protection of a military
post - Fort Davis. Fort Davis was active from 1854 until 1891, except for
certain periods during the Civil War. In
1961, the historic fort ruins were
ENTRANCE FEES
Vehicle: $20 for a 7-day pass
good at any park entrance.
Individual: $10 for a 7-day
pass. 15 years and younger
are free of charge. Annual
Pass: $40 – Allows unlimited entry for one year from
month of purchase.
CAMPGROUND FEES
The nightly fee for camping in one of the developed
front-country campgrounds
is $14. Individual back-country campsites require a $10
permit, which can only be
acquired at one of the park’s
visitor centers in person.
Special rates apply to commercial and non-commercial
groups, as well as interagency officials, seniors and
the permanently disabled.
Inquire at the ranger station
or call (432) 477-2251.
BIG BEND
STEVE MCKINNEY/BIGDAWGIMAGES.NET
Encompassing more than 800,000 acres of mountain cliffs, desert
expanses and towering river canyons, Big Bend National Park
is the king of Texas’ national public areas.
M
ANY FEATURES SET Big Bend apart from its national park brethren, including the fact that it is the only one to contain an entire mountain range
– the Chisos – within its borders. Dedicated in 1944, the park is nestled in
the bend of the Rio Grande River along the Texas-Mexico border where
outstanding examples of Chihuahan Desert topography and ecology
beckon nature enthusiasts from around the world.
FUN FACT
In 1964, Apollo
astronauts
came to Big
Bend to study
volcanic geology
so that they could
identify the geologic structures and
processes that they
might see on the
moon.
p
National Park
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 17
A land of contrasts, Big Bend contains geological marvels, historic and prehistoric treasures
and an amazing diversity of plant and animal life
across its dramatic range of elevations. From its
lowest point of 1,850 feet in Rio Grande Village
to Emory Peak at 7,825 feet, the park presents
impressive changes in climate, with temperatures in the desert routinely 10 to 20 degrees
warmer than in the mountains.
Desert opportunities abound. Numerous
trails — from short and very well developed to
long, rugged and remote — offer exceptional
views. Back-country roads are available with private back-country camping sites available for both
drive-in and backpacking options with a permit.
Historic sites and ruins are numerous. Opportunities for solitude are many.
CHOOSE YOUR OWN
ADVENTURE
STEVE MCKINNEY/BIGDAWGIMAGES.NET
The Chisos Mountains are high-elevation hiking, with trails for all skill levels. The famed
South Rim has both a dramatic drop-off and an
unobstructed view to the horizon line on a clear
day. Boot Canyon contains the largest trees in
the park and some of the largest of their species
in the country. Emory Peak Trail has just undergone a complete reroute and has dramatic new
views of both the south and north sides of the
mountain. Birding is excellent in the mountains
especially in the spring and fall. Spring sees the
arrival of the Colima Warbler, a bird found only
in the Chisos Mountains in the United States.
Campers in the Chisos Basin will enjoy development boosts, including a newly rehabbed campground with much improved facilities and new,
night sky-friendly lighting. Also, a newly re-
habbed porch at the lodge serving outdoor meals
is ready to serve day visitors and campers alike.
With over 150 miles of back-country dirt
roads and 200 miles of trails, walking, hiking,
mountain biking and horseback riding are all
popular options for exploring the park. Some
of the more popular hikes include the Window View Trail in the Chisos Basin, which is
wheelchair accessible and perfect for a mountain
sunset; Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, which
offers some of the best birding in the region; and
the Chihuahan Desert Nature Trail at Dugout
Wells, featuring native plant life identified along
this half-mile path.
The 118 miles of the Rio Grande that border the park wind through the Santa Elena,
Boquillas and Mariscal Canyons. A river trip
by raft or kayak is an unforgettable way to encounter the remote wilderness of Big Bend. Leisurely half-day floats to multi-day camping trips
are available. Santa Elena is the most popular
outfitter trip with dramatic 1,500-foot canyon
walls. Boquillas is a two-night/three-day trip on
average but great for families with its Class II or
less rapids at average water levels and many side
hiking opportunities.
There are three developed campgrounds
in the park: Chisos Basin Campground, Rio
Grande Village Campground and Cottonwood
Campground, all with water, restrooms and
some with primitive shelters. There is also an RV
Park at Rio Grande Village, the only location in
the park with full hookups. Public showers and
laundry facilities are available at the Rio Grande
Village Store. Most of the campsites operate on a
first come/first served basis and fill up quickly in
March, April and during the holiday season.
18 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
BOQUILLAS, MEXICO
The Boquillas Border Crossing has been re-opened
after being closed for over ten years. This “pedestrian only” crossing between the United States and
Mexico adds a new layer of fun and adventure to a
Big Bend National Park visit. The crossing offers a
unique opportunity to ride across the river in a row
boat, or, if the water is low enough, wade across the
Rio Grande (Check with officials for river conditions)! Current posted hours to re-enter the US are
9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday (bring
your passport). Learn more at
www.discoverboquillas.com.
celebration of our country’s public lands. Held
the last weekend of September, the event brings
thousands of people to parks across the country.
Friends of Big Bend National Park will be hosting a special weekend of volunteerism and fun
on Sept. 25. There will be volunteer opportunities, special ranger talks and social events to
mark this special occasion. Check website for
details. www.bigbendfriends.org
“GRINGO HONEYMOON”:
Boquillas is the Mexican town which
inspired the famous Robert Earl Keen
song. You can visit Boquillas via Big
Bend National Park .
PLAN YOUR TRIP
A limited number of sites in Rio Grande Village
and Chisos Basin allow advance reservations from
Nov. 15–Apr. 15. Call 877-444-6777 or reserve online at www.reserveusa.com. Visit www.nps.gov/
bibe or call 432.477.2251 for more information.
For a full list of Big Bend area activities, go to
www.visitbigbend.com, the most complete reference source for all things Greater Big Bend and
Brewster County. The mobile tag at the bottom
of this page will also take you there.
EVENTS
NATIONAL PUBLIC LANDS DAY
WEEKEND OF SEPTEMBER 28, 2013
STEWART RAMSER
National Public Lands Day is a nationwide
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 19
Established on Sept. 30,
1972, GMNP is part of the Guadalupe Mountains range, which
stretches from Carlsbad, N.M.,
to the salt flats and gypsum dunes
just east of Dell City. Those gypsum dunes are the second largest
in North America, after those of
White Sands National Monument.
Guadalupe Peak, and the
surrounding Guadalupe Mountains, is part of an ancient marine
fossil reef that was under the vast
Delaware inland sea 260-270 million years ago. It is regarded as
one of the world’s best examples
of Middle Permian geology, attracting geologists from around
the world. In addition to the Guadalupe Mountains, the 400-mile,
horseshoe-shaped El Capitán
Reef is now exposed in the Glass
Mountains, near Alpine, as well
as the Apache Mountains. In the
Pine Springs Visitor Center (5,013
feet in elevation), educational videos and exhibits shed light on the
geologic history of the park. Other
exhibits showcase the abundant
and diverse plant life and wildlife.
Visitors may join a park ranger for
an interpretive talk or walk on one
the park’s trails.
Discover the cultural history
of the park at one of the heritage
sites, such as the recently restored
Frijole Ranch Schoolhouse, Williams Ranch, Pratt Cabin, remnants of Buffalo Soldier encampments or the Pinery Butterfield
Overland Stage station. Explore
the natural beauty and grandeur
along the hiking trails, taking in
views of everything from harsh
desert landscapes to lush streamside woodlands, rich in oaks and
maples.
Perhaps the most popular attraction is the brilliant fall display
of red, orange and yellow Bigtooth Maples in McKittrick Canyon, which peaks in late October.
Families with children will find
Junior Ranger, Senior Ranger and
Junior Paleontologist programs
chock full of age-appropriate activities. The park website provides
a schedule of park activities and
updates on fall color showings to
aid travelers in planning their visits. www.nps.gov/gumo/.
Guadalupe Mountains
National Park
.... could easily be described as one of America’s
best-kept secrets.
L
of Van Horn on the Texas-New Mexico border, the 86,416
acres of Guadalupe Mountains National Park (GMNP) represent some of the
most varied and beautiful hiking trails in all of Texas. With elevations in the
park ranging from 3,689 feet at the gypsum dunes to the west of the Guadalupe Mountains, to the highest peak in Texas, Guadalupe Peak, at 8,749 feet,
visitors are treated to a tremendous diversity of native plants and animals. With
46,850 acres of designated wilderness, GMNP preserves the largest wilderness area
in the state of Texas.
OCATED NORTH
22 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
COURTESY GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
EXPLORE THE
GUADALUPES
A hiker’s paradise, GMNP boasts more than 80
miles of trails, meandering through woodland
canyons and lush riparian springs, as well as
those zigzagging up steep switchbacks through
the park’s rugged wilderness to Guadalupe
Peak, Bush Mountain, The Bowl, Bear Canyon, Pine Top, McKittrick Ridge, Shumard
Canyon, Hunter Peak, Dog
Canyon and the distinctive El
Capitán (which, at 8,085 feet
above sea level, is an imposing
sentinel at the west end of the
Guadalupes).
There are two short, easy
hikes — the 0.4-mile Manzanita Spring Trail or the Pinery
Trail (0.67 miles) — both of
which are paved and wheelchair
accessible. Moderate trails, such
as McKittrick Canyon (4.8-6.8
miles, depending on the route),
are available, as well as strenuous trails, such as the Guadalupe Peak Trail (8.4 miles) or
The Bowl (9.3 miles). These
trails require several hours and
ample supplies.
Hikers can take part in
the free Peak Fitness Challenge
by taking to the trails, www.
geobetty.com/peak.
Sixty percent of the park’s
trails are available for horseback
riding, though visitors must
bring their own stock. Either by
foot or horse, the park is a place
to discover fossils and explore
geologic and human history,
observe native wildlife, view
colorful wildflowers, capture
great photos, create paintings or
simply gaze into the wondrous,
star-filled night sky.
better protection from raids and provide better
access to water. Hikers in McKittrick Canyon
may visit Pratt Cabin.
Park visitors with a 4x4 vehicle and lust
for adventure can visit the historic Williams
Ranch, one of the earliest park homesteads with
a well-documented, albeit colorful, history. Before traveling that way, stop by the Pine Springs
Visitor Center to check out a gate key and be
For more information about
Guadalupe Mountains National
Park, visit www.nps.gov/gumo/
or call 915-828-3251 ext. 2124
for updated information.
FEES AND PASSES
COURTESY GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK
EXPERIENCE WEST
TEXAS HISTORY
Discover the park’s Native
American, cavalry (including the Buffalo Soldiers) and
pioneer ranching history at one of the wellpreserved historic sites. Listed on the National
Register of Historic Places, the Frijole Ranch
Cultural Museum features the homes and outbuildings of various Anglo settlers, including
the Smith family who operated their small truck
farm and orchard from 1906 to 1942. The Pinery
is one of the best-preserved and highest staging
outposts on the Butterfield-Overland Route,
which ran from St. Louis to San Francisco from
1858 until the outbreak of the Civil War. The
Pinery station ceased operations in August 1859,
when the route was shifted southward to give it
dashboard.
Before you venture into the back country or
before you leave to go back home, make sure to
visit the GMNP bookstore in the Pine Springs
Visitor Center to purchase a variety of books
about the park, maps or postcards. The park’s
non-profit cooperating association partner, the
Carlsbad Caverns Guadalupe Mountains Association, supports programs at the park from revenues at the bookstore. If you
would like to spend more time
helping the park directly, inquire about the park’s Volunteers In Parks (VIP) program.
aware that the drive, though only a little over
seven miles, takes about an hour. Guadalupe
Mountains National Park has two front-country
campgrounds, Pine Springs and Dog Canyon, a
group campground and group picnic area at Frijole Ranch and 10 back-country campgrounds
spread throughout the park. Obtain back-country camping permits at the Pine Springs Visitors
Center daily between 8 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. Entrance fees can be paid at any of the trail heads.
Simply fill out the fee envelope and deposit at
any trail head collection safe (the “iron ranger”).
Display your detachable stub on your vehicle
Guadalupe Mountains
National Park annual
passes are $20 for each immediate family. Seven-day
permits are available at a
rate of $5 per adult. Children under age 16 are free.
Camping permits are $8
per site. Campers should
pay cash at the self-registration board near the
restroom or pay by credit
card at the Pine Springs
Visitors Center. America
the Beautiful Annual
Passes may be purchased
for $80 and are good for
entry, as well as other
services and discounts at
federal public lands. Lifetime America the Beautiful
Senior Passes (for U.S.
Citizens or Permanent Residents aged 62 or older)
may be purchased for $10
and lifetime America the
Beautiful Access Passes
may be obtained, free of
charge, by U.S. Citizens
and Permanent Residents
who have qualifying permanent disabilities.
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 23
Nowadays, the high desert country, mountain ranges and access
to the Rio Grande are only a few
•
VAN HORN
y
of the natural wonders that make
Alpine
Alpine a popular destination. SituBIG BEND
ated within the great Chihuahuan
Desert between Big Bend National
Park and the Davis Mountains,
The unique geographic location, nestled
Alpine, with its tree-lined streets
between three mountain ranges, gives Alpine one
and university, is at the center of
of the most agreeable climates in Texas: warm,
the greater Big Bend region.
As such, it serves as the transsunny winter days and cool summer nights.
portation and service hub for far
West Texas. In addition to the
general aviation airport, AlpineCasparis Municipal Airport, there
is an Amtrak station and access to
the area via Greyhound bus lines,
delivering visitors to all Alpine has
to offer.
The Museum
of the Big Bend at Sul
FUN FACT
Ross is a favorite stop.
For more than 70 years
You may know
that Alpine was
the museum has colcalled Murlected and exhibited
phyville before
artifacts of the region,
the name changed
showcasing
11,000
officially in 1888.
But did you know
years of human history
that prior to that
and culture. Kids will
the town was briefly
enjoy seeing the large
called Osborne?
pterosaur reproduction
and meeting “Big Ben,”
a taxidermic, native
black bear. The museum came to have him after he was
struck by a car just a couple years
ago. He now serves as an important teaching tool to the kids of the
greater Big Bend area.
No matter what brings you
here, Alpine is a great staging place
for any far West Texas adventure.
There are ample lodging and dining opportunities. See cowboys
competing at rodeo events, watch
professional baseball in an historic
ballpark and see summer theater
productions under a roof of stars.
HE AREA THAT would one
At the time Murphyville became
The Texas Cowboy Poetry Gatherday be Alpine had been a Alpine, there were already a dozen
ing, Trappings of Texas, Big Bend
campsite for cattlemen until houses, three saloons, a hotel, roomBalloon Bash, Artwalk, Viva Big
a town of tents was created, ing house, a livery stable, a butcher shop
Bend and Big Bend Ranch Rodeo
consisting of railroad work- and a drugstore, which also housed the
are just six of the most popular annual events.
ers and their families. They post office. Alpine grew very slowly until
But, perhaps, what will keep
called their tiny settlement Sul Ross Normal College (now Sul Ross
you
coming
back is the nearly idylMurphyville, and it re- State University) was opened in 1920.
lic climate. At 4,600 feet and permained as such for five years The opening of Big Bend National Park
fectly situated between the Davis,
until a petition by townspeople rendered in the 1940s further spurred the growth
Glass and Del Norte Mountains,
a name change.
of the town.
you’ll be hard-pressed to find more
moderate, year-round temperatures
in all of Texas.
GUADALUPE MTS.
•
ODESSA
p
ADAM HOLMES/VISITALPINETX.COM
-A L P I N E -
T
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 25
Attractions
A
HISTORIC WALKING AND
WINDSHIELD TOUR
Take a leisurely stroll or drive around Alpine’s
downtown for a glimpse of architectural history. A copy
of the walking tour guide and map is available at the
Alpine Visitors Center located at 106 N. Third St.
www.alpinetexas.com
B SUL ROSS STATE UNIVERSITY
Established in 1920, the university’s picturesque
campus overlooks Alpine and the surrounding
valley. With years of history and its uniquely beautiful
setting, the campus of Sul Ross is a delightful place to
wander around. Many of the buildings are now designated as historic. Sul Ross is a member of the Texas
State University System. With an average undergraduate class size of just 20 students, it’s the perfect setting
for pursuing an associate, bachelor’s or master’s degree
in Liberal Arts, Science, Fine Arts or any number of
Professional Studies programs, such as Business Administration or Criminal Law. www.sulross.edu
FROM TOP: COURTESY VISITALPINETX.COM, DARREN McGUIRE/VISITALPINETX.COM, KENNETH TOSO/VISITALPINETX.COM
C
D KOKERNOT FIELD
For baseball enthusiasts, Kokernot Field will take
your breath away. Styled after the famous Wrigley
Field, this baseball diamond was built for the Alpine
Cowboys, a semi-pro team of the mid-20th century. The
landmark stadium is now home to a recent professional
incarnation of the team, also called the Alpine Cowboys.
ALPINE’S MURALS
The breezeway alongside the Reata Restaurant depicts
scenes from the movie GIANT – the restaurant’s name
pays homage to the famous film. Two blocks south,
at Kiowa Gallery, see two murals by the famous Stylle
Read, displaying images of West Texas and Alpine.
Around the corner, the local movie theater is decorated
with images of famous movie characters.
© Jim Bones
MUSEUM OF THE BIG BEND
Located on the Sul Ross campus, the museum’s
permanent exhibits explore the natural and
human history of the region, honoring the contributions of Native Americans, as well as Spanish, Mexican
and Anglo-American settlers. Every February through
April, the museum plays host to the Trappings of Texas
exhibition. (See the website for exact dates.) TuesdaySaturday, 9 a.m. –5 p.m., Sunday, 1–5 p.m.
www.sulross.edu/museum
ALPINE COUNTRY CLUB
GOLF COURSE
Next to Kokernot Park, this nine-hole course is popular
with visitors and residents alike. Cart rental and concessions are available.
PERFORMING ARTS AND
LIVE ENTERTAINMENT
Alpine offers a variety of stage performances and live
entertainment throughout the year. The Theatre of the
Big Bend features outdoor summer productions under
the stars and against the backdrop of West Texas at
Kokernot Park. And around town each week, live music
events from open-mic nights to touring shows keep the
nights lively. www.sulross.edu/tobbEvents
E COUNTY COURTHOUSE
HALL OF HISTORY
Take a walk through the great hall in the Brewster
County Courthouse and step back through the years.
On display are photographs from early Alpine and the
surrounding area.
F
HISTORIC MURPHY STREET
Murphy Street, one block south of the railroad
tracks, has gone through a revitalization. Visit the
shops and restaurants and explore the deep history of
Alpine.
Events
ARTWALK
Alpine’s biggest annual gathering spans two days in
November to showcase a variety of art exhibitions in
many local businesses, all against a backdrop of festivities and live outdoor music through the evenings. (432)
837-3067 www.artwalkalpine.com
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 27
ALPINE COWBOYS BASEBALL
With roots going back to the 1940s, the Alpine Cowboys are the community’s professional baseball team in
the Pecos League. Home games held at Kokernot Field
throughout the spring and summer are a refreshing
event, especially set against the backdrop of Alpine’s
surrounding mountains.
BIG BEND BALLOON BASH
Each morning of Labor Day weekend, hot air balloons
paint the skies over Alpine. Visitors to the launch site
enjoy balloon, helicopter and powered parachute rides.
www.bigbendballoonbash.com
BIG BEND RANCH RODEO
The rugged, gritty workings of ranch life take center
stage at this rodeo. Ranchers from all over the state come
to test their mettle in events evoking real cowboy skills,
from rounding up livestock to a fierce chuck wagon
cookoff. (432) 364-2696 www.bigbendranchrodeo.com
CINCO DE MAYO
A three-day weekend filled with food, crafts, dancing,
a parade, a car show, music, entertainment, enchilada
supper, folkloric dancers and a Gran Mercado.
TEXAS COWBOY POETRY GATHERING
The Texas Cowboy Poetry Gathering is a two-day event
celebrating the oral tradition of the working cowboy in
poetry, stories, and music. Enjoy more than 50 performers in the classrooms and on the stages of Sul Ross State
University in Alpine, Texas.
TRAPPINGS OF TEXAS
Trappings of Texas showcases the best of Western art
and custom cowboy gear. Held every February at the
Museum of the Big Bend on the campus of Sul Ross
State University, visitors and interested buyers can
meet and visit with the artists and gear makers who
have works for sale at the Museum and at the public
auction fundraiser. Trappings kicks off the third weekend of April 2015. www.sulross.edu/museum
BIG BEND REGIONAL MEDICAL
CENTER
2600 N. Highway 118
(432) 837-3447
www.bigbendhealthcare.com
Big Bend Regional Medical Center (BBRMC) is a 25
bed, joint commission accredited acute care facility.
Big Bend Regional has a Level 4 Trauma designated
Emergency Department and offers 24 hour emergency
care, ICU, medical/surgical rooms, OB care, imaging,
pharmacy, laboratory, and surgical services.
KIOWA GALLERY
105 E. Holland Ave.
(432) 837-3067
Kiowa Gallery is celebrating 20 years of serving the Big
Bend with a premier collection of original paintings,
pottery, jewelry and one-of-a-kind specialty gifts.
STABLE PERFORMANCE CARS
511 W. Holland Ave.
(432) 837-9789
www.thestablealpine.com
At Stable Performance Cars, the performance- and
classic-car enthusiast has a comfortable place to visit
and talk cars in a relaxed atmosphere.
IVEY’S EMPORIUM
109 W. Holland Ave.
(432) 837-7474, www.iveysemporium.com
Located in downtown Alpine, Ivey’s Emporium is a
popular store offering everything from gifts, decorative
accessories and tasteful souvenirs of the Big Bend
region.
TALLENT ROOFING
110 N. 6th St.
(432) 837-7009, www.tallentroofing.com
Tallent provides residential and commercial roofing services and is family owned and operated since 1987.
Real Estate
VIVA BIG BEND
MOUNTAIN VIEW PROPERTIES
Viva Big Bend is an annual music festival held in far
West Texas. Taking place the last weekend of July in
Alpine, Fort Davis, Marfa and Marathon, VBB showcases
more than 50 bands in 10 venues. Other events happening during VBB include an art show, kids’ activities
and functions geared toward musicians/music-industry
reps. More details can be found at
www.vivabigbend.com.
2100 W. Hwy 90
(432) 837-5518
mtnviewproperties.com
Mountain View Properties specializes in the marketing
and sale of homes in West Texas, as well as commercial
and ranch properties. We also serve Presidio, Jeff Davis
and Culberson Counties. As your agent and premier
real estate company of choice, we will be there to assist
you from beginning to end! We are your relocation
specialist!
Shopping & Services
ALPINE AUTO RENTAL
2501 E. Highway 90
(432) 837-3463
www.alpineautorental.com
All the amenities of a big city car rental agency, right
here in Alpine. U-HAUL trailers and trucks available.
28 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
1
2
SIERRA LA RANA
2 miles south of Alpine off Hwy. 118
(866) 757-2382
www.sierralarana.com
Gated Ranch Community. Own your own land! Now offering large tracts from 10 to 150 acres in a recognized
international dark sky community.
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Food & Drink
PLAINE
215 E. Holland Ave.
(432) 837-5157, www.tumbleweedlaundry.com
Plaine is a full-service coffee shop serving Big Bend
Coffee Roasters any way you take it. We also serve Blue
Bell ice cream and all-fruit smoothies. Also, try out our
brand new laundromat next door.
3
REATA RESTAURANT
203 N. 5th Street
(432) 837-9232
www.reata.net
The world-famous Reata Restaurant has been serving
legendary Texas cuisine since 1995 in Alpine. From
chicken fried steak to calf fries, pepper crusted tenderloin or a cowboy rib eye, Reata is a true West Texas
dining experience not to miss.
6
Lodging
209 W. Holland Ave.
(800) 535-8040 | (432) 837-2800
www.thehollandhoteltexas.com
Newly renovated historic downtown hotel. Trost & Trost
architecture.
4 HAMPTON INN
2607 W. Hwy. 90
(432) 837-7344
www.alpine.hamptoninn.com
Indoor pool/spa, fitness room.
5
HOLLAND HOTEL
7
THE MAVERICK INN
1200 E. Holland Ave.
(432) 837-0628
www.themaverickinn.com
A roadhouse for wanderers.
HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS & SUITES
2004 E. Hwy. 90
(432) 837-9597
www.holidayinnexpress.com
Indoor pool, fitness room.
211 E. Holland Ave.
(432) 837-9770
www.saddleclubalpine.com
The Saddle Club features a cozy environment with
stellar food and drinks. Relax inside and outside on
the patio, or book our private space upstairs for your
118
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EL PASO DOWNTOWN
ARTS DISTRICT
The district features unique shopping, a
walking tour of historic downtown, the El
Paso Museums of Art and History, public
artworks and the beautifully restored Plaza
Theatre. The district is also experiencing unprecedented growth, thanks to a
multi-million dollar quality of life bond and
private investments. New additions to the
area include Southwest University Park,
home of the newest Triple-A baseball team,
the El Paso Chihuahuas; a TouchCity Digital/
Interactive history wall, the first in the U.S.;
an enriching Hispanic Cultural Center; a
new children’s museum; and a pedestrian
pathway/wayfinding project that will connect the most popular downtown districts.
y
EL PASO GUADALUPE MTS.
•
VAN HORN
BIG BEND
HUECO TANKS STATE
HISTORIC SITE
World renowned for rock climbing, Hueco
Tanks is also known for its many Native
American rock paintings and unique
geology. Pictograph tours are offered,
and you can also hike, camp and picnic
on the grounds. Call before visiting, (800)
792-1112, option 3.
FRANKLIN MOUNTAINS
STATE PARK
Hike, bike or run the rugged terrain of this
37-square-mile state park that sits in the
middle of the city.
A
With the largest urban state parks in the U.S.,
right in the heart of the city, you don’t have to go
far to find real adventure.
the sun rise
over a picturesque mountain
backdrop, a city brimming
with adventure comes to life.
El Paso curves around a
still-wild terrain of mountains and foothills that promise, after a short climb or
a cable-car ride on a Swiss-made gondola, a breathtaking panoramic view.
Fresh-air excursions alone can give you
plenty of reasons to get up and go. Add
S YOU WATCH
32 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
315 days of sun to the equation and you
can live a Hemingway novel in about a
week — unless you’d rather use all that
sunshine to relax by a pool.
El Paso’s native friendliness, warm
sunshine and untamed mountains will
make your trip here the absolute opposite of a themed, fabricated experience.
It’s for real explorers. Discover it for
yourself. Real adventure is still alive in
El Paso.
WYLER AERIAL TRAMWAY
The tramway offers a view of 7,000 square
miles, two countries and three states from
the 5,632-foot elevation at the southern
edge of the Franklin Mountains.
EL PASO MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY AT WILDERNESS PARK
The El Paso Museum of Archaeology
provides visitors with a glimpse into the
preservation of archaeological and anthropological artifacts through research, exhibits, education, etc. The museum grounds
include trails with more than 200 native
plant varieties and outdoor exhibits.
KEYSTONE HERITAGE PARK
A 52-acre park located in El Paso’s Upper
Valley serves as an archaeological site,
archaic wetlands and a botanical garden.
Over 193 species of birds have been spotted here, including 22 species considered
rare by the Audubon Society.
FROM LEFT: COURTESY EL PASO CVB; ANDY MANN
El Paso
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 33
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Fort Davis
•
ALPINE
BIG BEND
FORT
Davis
Take a step back in time and travel to a place rich
in history — a place where the old West meets
modern amenities, and there’s not a single stop
light!
H
Attractions
Davis Mountains and surrounded by
unspoiled vistas of the Chihuahuan Desert, the charming little town of Fort Davis
feels far removed from the
rest of the world. The town
stretches just one mile with most of
the family-owned businesses centered
around the county courthouse and
along the main street (Highway 118). It
has the feel of a western frontier town
offering a retreat to a simpler past and a
chance to soak in the natural surrounding beauty, abundant wildlife and rich
history of the area.
COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION
p
GUADALUPE MTS.
Even after the fort closed, the
community of Fort Davis grew as
a ranching center and by the early
1900s attracted wealthy vacationers
from the Gulf Coast seeking the mild
climate of the high desert
during the summer months.
The intriguing history of the
area drew more tourists with
FUN FACT
the designation of the fort
Every summer,
as a national historic site in
Fort Davis NHS
1961. Many of its buildings
hosts a Junior
have been restored, making
Ranger Days
program, specially
it one of the best surviving
designed for children
examples of a frontier milivisiting the fort. The
tary post in the Southwest.
summer program
Stargazers,
birdwatchers,
includes a historic
cyclists and hikers have also
baseball game. Learn
more at the mobile
sought out the “Highest
tag to the left or by
Town in Texas” for access to
visiting the fort
the McDonald Observatory
and Davis Mountain State
Park/Indian Lodge.
IGH IN THE
Fort Davis takes its name from the
military post established there in 1854
along the San Antonio-El Paso Road.
The fort was manned by companies of
the 8th U.S. Infantry to protect emigrants, freighters and mail coaches from
raids by Apache and Comanche Indians
in the area. Starting in 1867, the fort was
home to four companies of the 9th U.S.
Calvary — African-American soldiers
that became known as Buffalo Soldiers. Fort Davis soon became a major
military installment, and the town grew
right alongside it, boasting a dairy, lumber yard, bakery, furniture store, several
hotels, a mercantile and saloons.
A MCDONALD
OBSERVATORY
A world leader in astronomical research,
McDonald Observatory atop Mts. Locke
and Fowlkes benefits from some of the
darkest night skies in the nation. The
Frank N. Bash Visitor Center is the starting point for tours and hosts Star Parties
on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday evenings. Interactive educational exhibits
can be found at the visitor center along
with a gift shop stocked with unique and
educational keepsakes. Open daily 10
a.m. to 5:30 p.m. with self-guided tours
available until 5 p.m. Daytime programs
are at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. www.mcdonaldobservatory.org
B DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE
PARK & INDIAN LODGE
Located four miles north of Fort Davis,
this 2,700-acre park offers camping,
hiking, picnicking and nature study.
Four miles of hiking trails connect to
Fort Davis National Historic Site, and two
scenic overlooks provide the perfect
spots for star gazing. Day and overnight
equestrian use is offered. Within the
park, the historic pueblo-style Indian
Lodge, built in 1933 by the Civilian
Conservation Corps, has a swimming
pool, restaurant and gift shop. The park
is open year-round, and full RV hookups
are available.
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 35
C
FORT DAVIS NATIONAL
HISTORIC SITE
Fort Davis was one the most important posts
in frontier defense in the late 1800s with its strategic
location at the crossroads of the San Antonio-El Paso
Road and the Chihuahuan Trail. www.nps.gov/foda/
D THE OVERLAND TRAIL
MUSEUM
On the historic San Antonio-El Paso Road, the
museum has displays and photographs depicting
early life on the western frontier and features a
restored pioneer kitchen and early medical equipment. Open Tuesday, Friday and Saturday 1-5 p.m.
E
SCENIC LOOP DRIVE
A 75-mile drive on the highest public highway in Texas starts in Fort Davis and winds past
the Davis Mountain State Park, McDonald Observatory, Mount Livermore, Sawtooth Mountain and
the Rock Pile. The route is also ideal for cycling with
plenty of spots to rest and picnic including a large
pine-shaded area with tables in Madera Canyon.
F CHIHUAHUAN DESERT
NATURE CENTER
Home to the Chihuahuan Desert Research
Institute, the center features 20 acres of botanical
gardens and a greenhouse with a collection of more
than 200 species of cacti. There are three miles of
hiking trails and outdoor exhibits including the Chihuahuan Desert Mining Heritage exhibit. The visitor
center is home to interpretive exhibits and a gift
shop, and is surrounded by a Wildscape Demonstration Garden that attracts butterflies, hummingbirds
and other wildlife. Located four miles south of Fort
Davis on Highway118. Open Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.–5 p.m.
www.cdri.org
G HISTORIC JEFF DAVIS COUNTY
COURTHOUSE
Designed by the architectural firm of l. L.
Thurman and Co. of Dallas, this building was erected
in 1910-1911. 2011 marked the 100th anniversary
of this concrete and stone Classical Revival edifice,
featuring a massive portico, Doric columns, alternating horizontal bands of pink rusticated stone made
of locally quarried materials and a Beaux Arts-style
clock tower.
Events
THE “COOLEST” 4TH OF JULY
Fort Davis provides a true slice of Americana in this
annual small-town July 4 celebration dubbed the
“coolest” in Texas thanks to the mountain temperatures and year-round dry climate. The community
event — which draws visitors from all over — features a parade, an old-fashioned gun fight, a 5K run,
an apple pie and empanada contest, a pet contest,
an array of vendors and a dance under the stars.
36 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
TEXAS STAR PARTY
Hosted by Texas Star Party, each year the Texas Star
Party takes place at the Historic Prude Ranch and
includes local tours, talks and evening programs.
www.texasstarparty.org
FORT DAVIS FRONTIER AND MULE DAYS
Mules and donkeys steal the show during this fun
family event with vendors, donkey races and a full
mule show. Sept. 26-27, 2014. www.fortdavis.com
CYCLEFEST
Hosted by the Permian Basin Bicycle Association,
Cyclefest has been based in Fort Davis for some 40
years. Cyclefest is a fun ride for anyone, held the
third weekend in September.
www.pbbatx.com
FRONTIER CHRISTMAS WEEKEND
Always the first full weekend of December, festivities include a Christmas tree lighting, a parade,
visits with Santa and a Christmas tree hunt. www.
fortdavis.com
ARTS & CRAFTS FAIR
For more than three decades the people at St. Joseph Catholic Church have hosted this communitywide arts & crafts far. Always held the Saturday of
Thanksgiving weekend.
Lodging
HOTEL LIMPIA/BLUE MOUNTAIN BISTRO
101 Memorial Square
(800) 662-5517
hotellimpia.com
FORT DAVIS INN & R.V. PARK
2201 Texas 17
(800) 80-DAVIS
fortdavisinn.com
1
THE STONE VILLAGE TOURIST CAMP
507 N. State Street
(432) 426-3941
www.stonevillagetouristcamp.com
Recently renovated ’30s-era motor court. Fourteen
motel units complete with bath/shower, AC/Heat, 6
camp rooms, heated pool. Outdoor grill available.
Natural food market and deli on property.
Food & Drink
1
STONE VILLAGE MARKET DELI
507 N. State Street
www.stonevillagetouristcamp.com
432-426-3941
Y
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COMMERCE ST
FORT DAVIS DRUGSTORE
Fort Davis
National
Historic
Site
113 North State Street, in the heart of downtown Fort
Davis; (432) 426-3118
www.fortdavisdrugstore.net
DAKOTA ST
118
MESCALERO ST
B
BLACK
FO
1250 N. State St.
(432) 426-3141
hebertscaboose@yahoo.com
A
OT ST
JPE RD
HEBERT’S CABOOSE ICE CREAM SHOP
COMPROMI
SE ST
17
118
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Real Estate
COACHWHI
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GRANAD
URQUHART
SAN JUAN
AVE
CEMETERY
EZ DR
1250 N. State St.
(432) 426-3141
hebertsheirlooms@yahoo.com
WOODWARD
SGT GONZAL
MADRONE ST
HEBERT’S HEIRLOOMS & RESALE
DESERT WILLOW
COURT AVE
601 Cemetery Rd.
(432) 242-5102
BENTLEY DR
FORT DAVIS OUTFITTERS
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Shopping
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310 S. Front St.
(432) 426-3941
www.texasmountainrealty.com
LN
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F
1 mile
Marathon
MARATHON LANDFILL
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 37
Attractions
GUADALUPE MTS.
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Fort
Stockton
FORT STOCKTON VISITOR
CENTER
Located in the renovated Kansas
City, Mexico and Orient Railroad
Depot, the Visitor Center provides
information on local and regional
attractions. The surrounding grounds
house interpretive displays on Comanche Springs, Buffalo Soldiers, Early
Pioneers, Vaqueros and Comanche
Indians. Also located at the Center
is the operational Pecos County/
Fort Stockton Renewable Energy
Park, featuring wind and solar power
generation that supplies energy for
operations at the Visitor Center. 1000
Railroad Avenue (432) 336-2264 www.
historicfortstocktontx.com
BIG BEND
B MESA VINEYARDS WINE
TASTING ROOM AT THE
HISTORIC GREY MULE SALOON
F
Stockton
ORT STOCKTON was established in March 1859 as Camp
Stockton. The army withdrew
from Texas during the Civil
War and abandoned Fort
Stockton in 1861. Confederate troops briefly occupied the
site until they, too, withdrew
in 1862. In July 1867, Fort Stockton was
re-established by four Companies of the
9th U.S. Cavalry Regiment.
The 9th was one of the new regiments organized after the Civil War
staffed with African-American enlisted
men known as Buffalo Soldiers.
38 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
The community was originally known
as Saint Gall, but the locals changed the
name to Fort Stockton in 1881.
Fort Stockton was incorporated as a
city in December of 1910 and elected its
first mayor in 1911. Fort Stockton is the
County Seat of Pecos County, the second-largest county in the state. Covering
nearly 5,000 square miles, Pecos County
is one of Texas’ largest energy producers
combining renewable energy with fossil
fuels. Tourism, agriculture, retail sales
and the service industry are also important contributors to the local economy.
HISTORIC FORT STOCKTON
DRIVING TOUR
Beginning at the Visitor Center, the
self-guided driving tour of the Historic
District features 17 locations with
descriptive signage and period photographs. (432) 336-2264
C PAISANO PETE
Paisano Pete, located in the
center of town on the corner of
Main and Dickinson, is inarguably one
of the most recognizable roadside
attractions in the Southwest. Fort
Stockton’s unofficial mascot was
erected in 1980 and declared the
largest roadrunner in the world, at 11
feet tall and 22 feet long. “Pete” was
the idea of Mayor Gene Cummings
and has been an enduring symbol of
the community since his arrival. He is
one of the most photographed ”birds”
in the world.
COURTESY FORT STOCKTON CVB
Fort
The historic saloon offers a perfect
setting to highlight the wines of Mesa
Vineyard. The tasting room offers
visitors a unique experience of enjoying an evening in an adobe structure
where cowboys, pioneers and outlaws
once drank and watched the construction of what is now Annie Riggs
Memorial Museum. Open Wednesday
through Sunday (1:30 p.m.-7 p.m.).
(432) 336-WINE. Available for special
events and group appointments.
D OLD FORT CEMETERY
LIVE AT ZERO STONE CONCERT SERIES
In use from 1859 to 1912, grave markers are a
testament to the hard and often violent life on the
early frontier.
Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Chamber of Commerce, this free six-session summer concert series is
held at Zero Stone Park in Downtown Fort Stockton.
Many types of music are celebrated including jazz,
swing and hard rock. The concerts are held every
other Friday beginning June 3 and ending Aug. 12.
(432) 336-2264
E HISTORIC FORT STOCKTON
This important Indian Wars Fort was active
from 1867 to 1886. It was strategically placed at
Comanche Springs to protect the San Antonio-to-El
Paso mail, freight wagons, cattle drives and emigrants. Today Historic Fort Stockton consists of four
of the original buildings and reconstructed barracks
housing the museum and period displays. 301 East
Third Street (432) 336-2400
Events
Held annually on the Historic Fort Grounds the third
weekend in October, Old Fort Days brings history
to life with period re-enactors and demonstrations.
Military units representing the periods of occupation of Fort Stockton are represented as are the
civilian population that lived near the Historic Fort.
Demonstrations of skills needed to survive during
the early settlement of the Southwest are presented
as well as military demonstrations of infantry, cavalry and artillery skills. (432) 336-2400
Fort Stockton is the starting point for this “most
challenging open road race in the world” held
the last Saturday in April along Highway 285 to
Sanderson. This event draws hundreds to the area
and offers excitement for all ages. Contact: (432)
336-2264 www.bborr.com
F ANNIE RIGGS MEMORIAL MUSEUM
Built in 1899, the museum is an excellent example of Territorial architecture. The Riggs family
donated the building to the Fort Stockton Historical
Society in 1956 for use as a museum of the town’s
wild and colorful history with displays featuring area
geology, archeology and pioneer life. 301 S. Main.
(432) 336-2167
G
OLD FORT DAYS
BIG BEND OPEN ROAD RACE
FORT STOCKTON WATER CARNIVAL
The Fort Stockton Water Carnival tradition began
back in 1936, when Comanche Springs flowed freely
and Texas was celebrating its Centennial. The annual
event occurs the third weekend in July and includes
singing, dancing, water ballet performances and the
crowning of Ms. Fort Stockton. Held at Comanche
Springs Pool and Pavilion, the three-day event continues to be run by local volunteers. (432) 336-2264
Fort Stockton
DESERT PINES MUNICIPAL
GOLF COURSE
This 18-hole course is home to Blaine McCallister, a leading PGA touring professional. Open
Tuesday-Sunday. (432) 336-2050
SUMMER OFF THE PATIO CONCERT SERIES
Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Historical Society,
this free six-session summer concert series is held
at the Annie Riggs Memorial Museum, off of the
18
back porch featuring historic period- and westernthemed music. The concerts are held every other
Thursday, June 9 through Aug. 18. (432) 336-2167
H JAMES ROONEY MEMORIAL PARK
Home to the historic Comanche Springs
Pavilion and Swimming Pool built in 1938 over
the Big Chief Spring, the pool is the site of Fort
Stockton’s annual Water Carnival. 208 S. Hwy 285,
Pool – 200 Spring Dr. (432) 336-2751
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Lodging
GUADALUPE MTS.
LAJITAS GOLF RESORT & SPA
Under new ownership since 2007, the
resort town, spa, equestrian center,
RV Park and new golf course ensure
that Lajitas flourishes with a variety
of new shops, restaurants and activities. More information at
www.lajitasgolfresort.com.
•
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Lajitas
Attractions
BLACK JACK’S CROSSING GOLF
COURSE
This semi-private, Lanny Wadkinsdesigned 18-hole championship golf
course captures the beauty and drama
of the desert. The course winds through
the mountains offering challenging golf
for all skill levels.
THE HUNT CLUB
Located 40 miles from the resort, The
Hunt Club is housed on 650 acres along
the Rio Grande. Full-day and multi-day
hunts are available for white-wing dove
in the fall.
LAJITAS BOARDWALK
A community along the Rio Grande River
named for the small flat rocks that blanket the area,
born of ancient volcanoes and inland seas.
T
UCKED BETWEEN Big
Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State
Park, Lajitas has played host to a cast of infamous characters throughout
history. Fossil bones of giant marine reptiles and large dinosaurs over 65
million years old have been discovered in the vicinity. The historic river
crossing, also known as Paso Lajitas or San Carlos Ford, has been used
for centuries. The Spanish explorer Antonio de Espejo crossed here in
1588. Lajitas Trading Post was built in 1899 to facilitate workers, goods
and material coming from Mexico to the booming cinnabar mines in the area.
By the early 20th century, Lajitas enjoyed a
public school and a U.S. post office. A military
outpost was established here to protect the strategic mining industry during the period of unrest caused by the Mexican Revolution of 19101920, when the name of Pancho Villa was either
worshipped or feared on both sides of the Rio
42 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
Grande. In late 1916 and early 1917, General
John J. “Black Jack” Pershing made an inspection of the area along with his aide, Lieutenant
George Patton. There are cowboy stories along
with miners’ tales of drink and peril in every
crevice of the red rock buttes that encircle the
area.
Outfitters & Tours
ANGELL EXPEDITIONS
(432) 229-3713 or (305) 336-2787
www.angellexpeditions.com
Full-service outfitter serving the greater
Big Bend area. River rafting, canoeing,
kayaking, jeep tours, hiking, mountain biking and camping. Single and
multi-day trips available, tailored to your
interests and schedules. Highest ranking
on TripAdvisor!
RIO AVIATION INC. AIR TOURS
(432) 557-9477
www.rioaviation.com
Rio Aviation specializes in scenic flights
over some of the most spectacular
country along the Rio Grande, including
the Solitario, Santa Elena Canyon and the
Devil’s Playground. The plane accommodates up to four passengers comfortably, and the high-wing configuration
provides an excellent platform for
flightseeing and photography.
COURTESY LAJITAS GOLF RESORT & SPA
L AJI TAS T
T LAJITAS
The Lajitas Boardwalk offers a collection
of interesting shops and venues to explore including Red Rock Outfitters and
Christina’s World for local and regional
gifts, Lajitas Art Gallery exhibiting work
by local artists, the Flat Rock Theater
providing a cool afternoon escape and
Lysha’s Bakery for fresh baked pastries.
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BIG BEND
Just a quarter mile west of the
Hwy. 385 turn off to the National
Park, lies Marathon’s diverse historical
main street village with shops, restaurants, galleries, groceries and accommodations to suit every taste and need.
Railroad and ranching are still part of
the local economy and are the industries that founded the town.
Starting at the center of town,
Post Road runs south for five miles to
the Post Park. With very little traffic and fabulous views,
this road is ideal for running,
walking and biking. WildFUN FACT
life such as deer, javelinas,
The Marathon
turkey and even an occasionMuseum is
located at
al fox can be seen in the early
the corner
morning or late evenings.
of North Third and
Post Park itself is a beautiful
Avenue E (on the
secluded pond and county
Square) in the hispark on the Pena Colorado
toric “Club House,”
originally the site of
river shaded by Cottonwood
the first schoolhouse
trees and surrounded by Los
in Buchel-Brewster
Caballos Novaculite MounCounty.
tains. Named after the old
cavalry post in the mid1800’s known as Camp Pena
Colorado, it is popular in
birding circles as one of the few accessible sources of spring water in the Big
Bend region. It hosts the longest running community event in Big Bend….
The 4th of July dance.
For more photos, see
marathontexas.com and
themarathonfoundation.org
Visit the tiny local library and stop
in for the Wednesday pre-school children’s program, or visit the Marathon
Museum and old jail.
Take in local geologic features,
from the bluntness of Iron Mountain to the north to the lightness of
the Glass Mountains, one of the few
It is especially attractive to astronomers
exposed uplifted coral reefs in Texas.
because Marathon is blessed by having a
While in Marathon, you’ll stand on
rare distinction of being an established,
some of the oldest rocks from the
Paleozoic age (250-600 million years
functional community under a ‘Class 1
ago). The Marathon Uplift exposes
Dark Sky’ (Dark as it gets)! … right in
the Ouachita Mountains (Arkansas
town. Its remote geographic location, eland Oklahoma) that were heaved up
evation and size all contribute to enhancduring the formation of the ancient
ing this natural resource. Even though
continent of Pangaea (when all the
continents were one). Road cuts east
the surrounding communities are under
of town on Highway 90 and south on
the ‘same sky’, their increasing light polHighway 385 expose spectacular fealution is adversely affecting their night
tures such as strike-slip faults, unusual
sky. Marathon’s local community and
folding and fossil fragments.
businesses are on their way to protecting
Whether you are looking for dark
every exterior light in town from intruskies, luxurious accommodations, a
local haven, shops and galleries, bicysion on the fabulous dark sky.
cling, birding, running, yoga, hiking in
the National Park or just plain relaxation…. Marathon is your town.
p
J
UST 40 MILES NORTH of
the entrance to Big Bend
Nat’l Park lies the quaint
community of Marathon.
Situated in what is known
as the Magnificent Marathon Basin, Marathon
boasts a delightful climate, beautiful surroundings and friendly people, in addition to being centrally
located to many of the area’s unique attractions. With the entrance to Big
Bend National Park so close, many folks
stay in Marathon and hike in the park
every day. 44 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
DANIEL SELF
Marathon
Should you decide to make Marathon your destination, or when
you’re ready to head down the
road, you’re a manageable distance
from just about anywhere in the
area. Alpine is a mere 30 miles.
Another 26 will get you to either
Marfa or Fort Davis. But if you’re
like most, you’ll probably be heading south to Big Bend National
Park. Good news — Marathon
is closer to the park than any
other town in the region, at just
48 miles.
Marathon is sitting pretty
as the locals’ haven and visitors’
uncovered jewel, just a hop, skip
and a jump from all that welcomes
visitors to far West Texas and its
own little corner of heaven.
BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK
Attractions
MARATHON CHILI COOK-OFF
Five miles south of town, this shady
oasis known simply as “The Post” (pictured on p. 44) was the original town
site. Its location on the Comanche
Trail necessitated the establishment
of a cavalry post there. Although
very little remains of the army post,
it nevertheless gives the spot its current name. It is a popular location for
dances, picnics and fishing, and is one
of the best birding sites in the region.
MARATHON HISTORICAL
MUSEUM
Displays on early ranching, railroads
and the mercantile history of Marathon. North 3rd Street and Avenue E.
HALLIE’S HALL OF FAME
MUSEUM
Located 40 miles south on Highway
385, then six miles east on FM 2627,
this family museum honors the
memory of legendary ranch woman,
teacher and author Hallie Stillwell.
Call before going as their hours vary
(432) 376-2244.
GAGE GARDENS & WALKING
TOUR
This shady 26-acre park often serves
as a venue for weddings and other
events, and its orchards supply the
Gage restaurant with fresh fruits and
produce. It also features a quartermile walking trail, water fountains
and pond, and a putting green. The
grounds are open to the public.
46 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
SPA AT THE GAGE HOTEL
102 W. Hwy 90
(800) 884-GAGE
www.gagehotel.com
Luxury spa in the historic Gage Hotel.
Massages, body wraps. The ultimate
in relaxation.
Events
Lodging
EVE’S GARDEN ORGANIC BED
& BREAKFAST
200 N.W. 3rd St.
(432) 386-4165
www.evesgarden.org
Seven colorful guest rooms handbuilt with recycled materials, each
with private bath, surround a lush
garden courtyard. Includes guest
courtesy room and full organic
breakfast.
GAGE HOTEL
102 W. Hwy 90
(800) 884-GAGE
www.gagehotel.com
Unique, historic, sophisticated boutique hotel.
and hours: www.famousburro.com
or call in your order (during business
hours) and they’ll have it ready for
pick up: 432-386-4100.
FRENCH COMPANY GROCER
Just north of the bank
(432) 386-4522
www.frenchcogrocer.com
Homemade sandwiches, salads,
bread, cookies and coffee. Groceries,
natural foods, beer/wine, camping
supplies, ATM and internet access.
12 GAGE
in the Gage Hotel - 101 Hwy 90 West
(432) 386-4205
www.gagehotel.com
An extraordinary dining experience
in the historic Gage Hotel.
July 4-7, 2014 – CASI-sponsored chili
cook-offs Friday and Saturday. Dance
at “the Post” Saturday night featuring
Craig Carter and the Spur of the Moment band.
WEST FEST AND CABRITO
COOK-OFF
The last weekend of September,
cooks vie for top prize with cabrito
(goat) specialties. Activities include
washer pitching, team roping, softball, live music and a dance.
MARATHON 2 MARATHON
5K, 10K, half and full marathons on
the new Highway 385 course. Prerun pasta dinner at the Gage Hotel.
Dinner and dance celebration at the
Marathon Motel. Oct. 25, 2014.
www.marathon2marathon.net
COWBOY SOCIAL
First Sunday in November starting at
3 p.m. Includes a dance, fajita dinner,
cash bar, silent auction and “wheelbarrow of wine” raffle, all benefiting
the Marathon Health Clinic. (432)
386-3122
FIESTA DE NOCHE BUENA
A community event in the spirit of the
winter holiday season. Galleries and
shops open on the first Saturday in
December as musicians stroll among
the downtown revelers. Starts at
dusk.
MARATHON MOTEL
West Hwy 90
(866) 386-4241
www.marathonmotel.com
Established in 1940 and recently
renovated with 10 newly decorated
rooms divided between four duplex
cabins. Also, 19 full RV hookups.
Service includes water, 30/50 amp
electricity, sewer and cable television.
Easy-to-navigate entrance and clean,
bright restrooms, complete with
showers — available to RVers at no
additional charge.
Food & Drink
THE FAMOUS BURRO
The Famous Burro is located at 100
North East 1st Street in the heart of
Marathon, Texas. From handmade
burgers to our fully-stocked bar, to a
free game room and stellar staff, the
Burro offers affordable and casual
dining in the heart of Big Bend. Check
the website and Facebook page for
updates on live music, dinner specials
Art & Galleries
EVANS GALLERY
Four doors down from the Gage
(432) 386-4366
www.jameshevans.com
Featuring the photographs of James
H. Evans, a 25-year resident of Marathon and author of Big Bend Pictures
and Crazy from the Heat. Home of
Desert Critter Wear — clothing and
linens with printed desert critters.
FROM TOP: PHILLIP MOELLERING, COURTESY JAMES EVANS
CAMP PENA COLORADO
(POST PARK)
Marathon is the northern and eastern
gateway to Big Bend National Park. A
45-minute drive takes you to the park
entrance, where you are greeted with
breathtaking desert vistas. After another 45-minute drive inside the park
you can find yourself in the cool, high
Chisos Mountains Basin, where you
can see across the river into Mexico.
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Marfa
A vanguard for minimalism and modern art,
Marfa continues to mystify and amaze visitors.
FROM TOP: COURTESY TEX TOLER, COURTESY TEX TOLER
HE ENIGMATIC city of Marfa sits in the high desert of Texas, surrounded
by distant mountains in daylight and mysterious ghost lights at night.
Fittingly named after a character in a novel, Marfa has a history of
attracting creative spirits. Founded as a railroad water stop in the 1880s,
the city limits are still bound on all sides by working cattle ranches,
many still operated by their original descendants. On any given day you
can find these natives in one of the many fine restaurants, galleries or
cultural events Marfa offers, along with visitors from all over the world who come
in for urban dislocation.
On the surface, it is a typical rural town - a main street, a courthouse,
churches and well-kept houses. Look
deeper and you will find restaurants
and art collections to rival New York
or Berlin, a hotel filled with movie
stars’ memories and unrivaled eclectic
accommodations (like El Cosmico’s
renovated vintage trailers, scout tents,
traditional 22-foot Sioux teepees and
campsites, or the uber-modern Hotel
Thunderbird).
Until the 1970s, Marfa was best
known for the ghost lights and as the
film location for James Dean’s final
picture, GIANT, also starring Rock
Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor and Dennis Hopper. The classically beautiful
Hotel Paisano served as the center
of activity during the making of the
movie. Now, the well-appointed
rooms offer modern conveniences
while preserving the spirit of its past.
If you are unable to stay there, a visit
is a must - sit in by a roaring fireplace in the lobby or enjoy the outside
courtyard and fountain.
In 1971, Donald Judd, the renowned minimalist artist, moved to
Marfa from New York City with the
intention of permanently installing
his art. Since Judd’s death in 1994,
two foundations have been working
to maintain his legacy: the Chinati
Foundation and Judd Foundation.
The Chinati Foundation now occupies more than 10 buildings and has
on permanent exhibit work by such
artists as John Chamberlain and Dan
Flavin.
While in Marfa, don’t forget to
find your way to the viewing station
east of town where you can study the
mystery of the Marfa Ghost Lights
as they dance across the foothills of
the Chinati Mountains. Seen by the
earliest settlers to the area, they continue to mystify travelers and passersby, and are part of the continuing
enigma and magic that is Marfa.
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 47
A
MARFA MYSTERY
LIGHTS
Marfa’s “Mystery Ghost Lights”
were first documented by rancher
Robert Ellison in 1883. Many theories
about the source of these curious
lights abound, but no one has ever
been able to fully explain the phenomenon. Swamp gas, phosphorescent mineral displays, ball lightning,
UFOs and wandering spirits of Apache
ancestors have been proposed. Whatever the cause, these playful lights
above Mitchell Flat are an enduring
attraction. You’ll find a roadside park
and viewing center complete with
restroom facilities, picnic tables and
long-range viewing devices along
Highway 90 just eight miles east of
town.
B
PRESIDIO COUNTY
COURTHOUSE
The highest golf course in Texas,
situated at 4,882 feet above sea level,
this 9-hole course offers not only
well-kept greens but also 360-degree
views of blue mountains and open
ranchland. It is a wonderfully manicured surprise in the middle of the
desert mountains. (432) 729-4043.
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spaces at the hub of Marfa culture. OcEL COSMICO WEEKEND
cupying much of former Fort D.A. RusThe annual El Cosmico Weekend
sell, the Chinati Foundation houses a
takes place in September and imports
permanent collection of
music and fun to Marfa. El Cosmico ofcontemporary art, as
fers alternative lodging options
well as temporary
to travelers in the
17
exhibits by artists
forms of renovated
E LIVINGSTON
in residence. The
vintage trailers,
E TENONO
Judd Foundation
yurts, a teepee
E SALGADO
focuses primarily
and campsites.
FREMONT
ANTON
Originally a gathering orchestrated
by the Chinati and Judd Foundations,
Chinati Weekend (formerly “Open
House”) has grown to be a full-scale
weekend of art and activity .
www.chinati.org.
CHINATI FOUNDATION , JUDD
FOUNDATION and BALLROOM
MARFA are three nonprofit art
MARFA LIGHTS FESTIVAL
The Marfa Lights Festival takes place
each Labor Day weekend, with many
of the activities surrounding the picturesque Presidio County Courthouse.
The festival begins on Friday when
food and craft vendors open their
booths. Saturday morning starts with a
5K walk/run and a parade down Highland Avenue. Live music is featured
throughout the weekend. In 2014,
Tejano legend Sunny Ozuna stars.
PADRE’S ANNIVERSARY
CHINATI WEEKEND
Art
W 2ND
Housed in an 1880s adobe
known as the Humphris-Humphreys House, this museum
features displays of GIANT, the
W SAN
Events
N DE
W 3RD
MARFA MUNICIPAL GOLF
COURSE
ER
MM
N SU
U
ATEA
N PL
N RIDGE
N CAPOTE
N MISSOURI
Built in 1886, the Goddess
of Justice stands atop this elegant
Second Empire-style domed structure
that was restored in 2001. A climb to
the cupola provides a 360-degree
panoramic view of the Marfa Plateau,
Chinati Peak and nearby Davis
Mountains. Hours
W 5TH
are 9 a.m.-4 p.m.
Monday through
W 4TH
Friday.
MARFA
C
AND
PRESIDIO
COUNTY MUSEUM
on the work of Chinati founder Donald
Judd, while Ballroom Marfa features
revolving exhibits of international
acclaim, along with numerous music
events throughout the year. In addition to these three organizations,
several independent galleries and
studios are open across town.
www.chinati.org
www.juddfoundation.org
www.ballroommarfa.org
Chihuahuan Desert, local military
and county history, and a collection
of panoramic photography by Frank
Duncan. Hours 2-5 p.m. Thursday
through Sunday.
Attractions
A
Marfa’s favorite funeral home turned
watering hole holds its annual Memorial Day weekend celebration. Live
music, good food and great people.
www.padresmarfa.com
Food & Drink
SQUEEZE MARFA
1 Across from the Presidio County
Courthouse
(432) 729-4500
www.squeezemarfa.com
www.vollenweiderchocolate.com
Smoothies, juices, soups, sandwiches,
salads and Vollenweider Swiss chocolate.
PLANET MARFA
200 S. Abbot St.
(432) 386-5099
Offering a shady, open-air beer garden
Friday through Sunday from spring
break to Thanksgiving, the patio
features a two-sided bar hut, a domed
dance floor and stage, a full scale
tipi-kiva with a fire ring, private party
suite, ping pong, darts and bull-ring
game areas, and a Marfa Lights tour
bus. Nachos and homemade pico de
gallo are served from the kitchen until
10 p.m. Owned and operated by the
founders, Jon & Aase Johnson since Labor Day weekend of 2010, Planet Marfa
has been called the best little Mexican
beach bar this side of Mazatlan.
Lodging
2
HOTEL PAISANO
207 N. Highland
(866) 729-3669
www.hotelpaisano.com
A historic hotel with 41 rooms, dining
room, shopping and a heated pool,.
The Paisano hosted the stars of the
movie GIANT and now serves as the
social headquarters for Marfa. Enjoy
patio dining by the fountain and views
of the exquisite Trost architecture.
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 49
MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHWEST
Explore the museum and see the many
collections and rotating exhibits, with
more than 12,000 works of art. While
you’re there visit the hands-on children’s museum and see the stars at the
planetarium. (432) 683-2882 or www.
museumsw.org
Midland
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FUN FACT
Susie’s South Forty
Confections
Candy Factory is a
GuinnessTM World
Record-Holder for
making the largest
piece of toffee. It was
shaped like the state
of Texas.
CAF AIRPOWER MUSEUM
FUN FACT
p
XCOR Aerospace has
moved their
headquarters
from California to
Midland and will
soon be offering
suborbital flights on
the Lynx in Midland.
Midland
PHOTOS COURTESY MIDLAND CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU
Fly into Midland International Airport (closest airport to
Big Bend) and stay a couple nights to experience the
culture and cuisine in this exciting metropolitan city
before heading down to the mountains.
W
HEN MOST people think
of Midland, they envision
big hats, oil rigs, cowboy
boots and true Texas manners. They’re not far off.
Folks in the Permian
Basin are proud of their
Texas roots and the prosperity they’ve
found in the oil business. But beyond
that, they’ve carved out a niche in the
world unlike most others you’ll experience in your travels.
Nicknamed the “Tall City” for its
jutting downtown against the vast plains
of the basin, Midland’s downtown and
area attractions make it a great place to
start your journey westward. Take a look
at what it has to offer, and “Feel the Energy” for yourself.
World renowned for World
War II artifacts, the museum
is host to the world’s largest
collection of Aviation Nose Art
and the annual CAF AIRSHO
in October. (432) 563-1000 or
www.airpowermuseum.org
GEORGE W. BUSH
PRESIDENTIAL
CHILDHOOD HOME
Nowhere else has one
building been home to so
many influential people. This
1,492-square-foot house has been called
home by two presidents, two governors,
a former CIA director and ambassador to
China, and a first lady. (432) 685-1112 or
www.bushchildhoodhome.org
PERMIAN BASIN PETROLEUM
MUSEUM AND CHAPARRAL
GALLERY
Roam the 60,000 square feet of the
museum and discover the history of oil and
the important role it plays in our past, present and future. See firsthand the chaparral
race cars whose designs have a prominent
place in racing history. (432) 683-4403 or
www.petroleummuseum.org
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 51
STONEHENGE
The amazing replica of the original
Stonehenge fascinates visitors from
around the world. The replica is 70 percent of the original’s dimensions and
exact in horizontal size, with the tallest
or the limestone standing at 19 feet.
The exhibit is located on the University
of the Permian Basin Campus. www.
odessahistory.com/menusthg.htm.
Odessa
y
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When it comes to variety and fun, Odessa, Texas, is
The Right Place to Be.
ELLEN NOËL ART MUSEUM
FUN FACT
p
PHOTOS COURTESY ODESSA CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU
The book
Friday Night
Lights: A Town,
a Team, and
a Dream by author
H. G. Bissinger and
subsequent movie
(Friday Night Lights)
are based on the
1988 football season of the Permian
Panthers, one of
the two high school
football teams in
Odessa. The book
also inspired an NBC
television series of
the same name.
F
as a water stop and cattle shipping point on the Texas
and Pacific Railway, Odessa has grown to be a real metropolitan area,
with all the accoutrements of big city living. In fact, Odessa is one of the
most economically important cities in Texas.
But beyond the rigs, the roughnecks and the rodeos, Odessa is a
simple town with a heart of gold. With that great fortitude comes great
respect for culture and the arts — not to mention a penchant for sports.
Home to sports organizations like the North American Hockey League team the
Odessa Jackalopes, this is the place to stay when you’re looking for in-city activities
that will wow the kids and entertain mom and dad as well.
The Ellen Noel Art Museum of the
Permian Basin is an independent
art museum. The museum features
rotating exhibitions of historical
and contemporary art, a permanent sculpture/sensory garden,
and programs of art education
for all ages. The Museum is one of
only two art museums in the state
of Texas that has been granted the
Smithsonian Affiliation. The Museum is located at 4909 E. University.
www.noelartmuseum.org
ODESSA METEOR CRATER
MUSEUM & VISITOR CENTER
The crater, the second-largest in
the nation, is approximately 550
feet in diameter and almost 100
feet deep. Just west of Odessa off
I-20, Exit 108. (432) 381-0946
OUNDED IN 1881
GLOBE OF THE GREAT
SOUTHWEST
Modeled after Shakespeare's
original Globe Theatre. Home of stage
plays and the Brand New Opree,
a showcase for musical talent. Also
features the Anne Hathaway Cottage.
The Theatre is located on the Odessa
College Campus at 2308 Shakespeare
Road. www.globesw.org
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 53
CROCKETT COUNTY MUSEUM
Dedicated to sharing and preserving history, featuring an award winning Indian
Exhibit,visitors will leave this museum
feeling as if they have truly traveled through
time. This three story period museum with
its general store, bank room, saddle room,
school room and many other exhibits, depict so clearly the heritage of this region and
the way of life once lived by so many before
us. www.crockettcountymuseum.com
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BIG BEND
TOURIST INFORMATION
CENTER
When it comes to variety and fun, Odessa, Texas, is
The Right Place to Be.
Open Monday through Friday, 9am-5pm,
and Saturdays from 10am-3pm. 24- hour
restrooms. Find local and regional details
as well as tourist information for a 300 mile
radius of Ozona. Located at the Intersection of I-10 and Hwy. 163 South. Exit 365.
www.ozona.cvom
CROCKETT COUNTY INTERPRETIVE TRAIL
Open to the public 7 days a week and located
just across the parking lot of the Visitor Center
at the intersection of I-10 and Hwy. 163 South.
PHOTOS COURTESY OZONA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
Located in the Texas Pecos Trail, Ozona is the perfect
I-10 stop between San Antonio and El Paso.
O
Ozona
ZONA’S TOWN SQUARE is one of beauty, charm and warmth. This is a
spot for locals and visitors alike. Just relax and enjoy the feel and sound
of a West Texas breeze rustling through tall pecan trees, or the sound
of music from the Gazebo. The square is home to the Tie That Binds
Sculpture, a memorial to pioneer families, and to the Davy Crockett Monument whose name the county seat bears. A monument in
his honor stands in Ozona’s Town Square where thousands of visitors
stop for a photograph.
The purpose of the trail is to educate local
and regional residents and visitors across
the country about the importance of
water conservation, and the use of native
plants. Plants are part of our heritage and
the trail system can help us preserve and
respect their contribution to our everyday
lives. They provide food, fiber, shelter, and
are used for medicinal and ceremonial
purposes.. Plants play a key environmental
role for pollination, feeding livestock, and
oxygen.
The trail includes a Rain Harvest
Exhibit developed by the Agri-Life Extension Office. There you will find signage on
the process of collecting water for livestock,
landscaping or at-home use. Inside the Visitor Center are resource materials on how to
actually build your own Rain Harvest site.
With over 231 plants, over 45 have
been signed and included in a brochure
that will take you on a self-guided tour
around the trail. This brochure will enable
you to identify the plants and learn about
their purpose. www.ozona.com
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 55
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Presidio
BIG BEND
Presidio
Incredible wonders like no other place on earth
await you in Presidio, Texas
BRAD NEWTON
I
BY NOE TORRES
t’s ONE OF THE STRANGEST sagas
in the bizarre history of the Texas Big
Bend region. In 1914, iconic Mexican revolutionary Pancho Villa came to
the Presidio area after accepting an offer from a Hollywood movie director
to film Villa’s planned attack on Mexican federal troops stationed in Ojinaga,
across the Rio Grande River from Presidio. The Battle of Ojinaga, as it came
to be known, turned out to be a watershed moment in the Mexican Revolution, and the movie, The Life of General Villa, helped Villa raise desperatelyneeded money for his underfunded army. These unusual events were chronicled in
the 2003 movie And Starring Pancho Villa as Himself, featuring Antonio Banderas
as Villa.
Presidio played an important role
in the Battle of Ojinaga, being the
site of Pancho Villa’s armory, located
on what is now Old Bridge Street.
Presidio became a key supply line for
the Mexican Revolution, enabling the
transfer of guns, ammunition and supplies from Texas to the rebels. During
his frequent visits to Presidio, Villa
stayed at the home of friends Amador
and Estella Estrada, who lived on what
is now Serria Street in Presidio. After
the brief Battle of Ojinaga, which resulted in a resounding victory for Villa’s troops, the defeated “federales” fled
in panic across the Rio Grande to Presidio, leaving behind their weapons.
In Presidio, the refugees surrendered
to the U.S. Army and were eventually
transported to the Fort Bliss Army
Base in El Paso, where they were detained “for their own safety.”
Two years after the Battle of Ojinaga, Villa, increasingly upset about
U.S. support for the federal government of Mexican President Venustiano Carranza, decided to attack a U.S.
town along the border with Mexico.
Originally, he told his inner circle
that he would attack Presidio, but the
actual attack was eventually made on
Columbus, New Mexico. Visitors to
Presidio can find out more about Pancho Villa and the Battle of Ojinaga
from a special exhibit at Fort Leaton
State Historical Site.
Presidio’s prominent role in the
Mexican Revolution is only part of
the town’s unique and colorful history.
Archeologists have found traces of dinosaurs roaming the region over 100
million years ago and thriving human
settlements more than 1,500 years before Christ. There were humans living
in what is now Presidio during the time
of the Biblical Exodus and at the dusk
of Egypt’s age of the pyramids. Spaniard Cabeza de Vaca explored Presidio
in 1535 AD, and in the late 1800s, the
area experienced raids by both Comanches and Mexican bandits.
While students of history and archeology find a wealth of information
from which to choose, other visitors
enjoy simply spending time admiring,
photographing, and touring the majesty of the vast outdoors. The “view from
here” is so magnificent that no film or
photograph can possibly do it justice,
and one must experience it firsthand.
Marvels abound, from the ghostly
Chinati Mountains, where strange,
unexplained lights have been appearing almost every night since the 1800s,
to the unbounded panoramic vistas
of the Big Bend Ranch State Park,
whose 300,000 acres unveil spectacular sights, including the state’s second tallest waterfall, Madrid Falls.
Fans of the unexplained will find
a treasure trove of paranormal activity in the area, including the reported
crash of a flying saucer northwest of
Presidio in 1974, the recovery of a
non-human skull called the “Star
Child” in nearby Chihuahua, the
enigmatic Marfa Lights, a mysterious area of psychic energy referred
to as Mexico’s “Bermuda Triangle,”
a historic silver mine “ghost town,”
strange prehistoric fossils and rock
art - plus many other astonishing
tales. In celebration of its paranormal
roots, Presidio hosts the Border Zone
International UFO Festival each
October. The 2014 event will be held
October 24 & 25 and features one
of the world’s most renowned UFO
researchers, Nick Pope, along with
other speakers. For 21 years, Nick
was in charge of the British government’s “X Files,” investigating UFO
sightings, crop circles, alien abductions, and ESP. He has been called
a real-life Fox Mulder. Complete in-
formation about the UFO Festival is
at http://UFOborderzone.com.
In addition to the Presidio area’s
history and natural features, many
visitors simply enjoy the magnificence
and freedom of exploring the great
outdoors in cars, on motorcycles,
on mountain bikes, in river rafts, or
using other forms of transportation.
For years, the area has been a treasured gem for motorcycle enthusiasts
from throughout the country. They
tell us that there’s no feeling quite
like riding their machines, enjoying
the fresh air and abundant sunshine,
while surrounded by the splendor
and majesty of the area’s soaring
mountains and rugged beauty. Those
who prefer to ride the waves rather
than motorcycles will find abundant
river rafting opportunities on the
Rio Grande, as the scenic river winds
its way slowly past rugged canyons
and lofty mountains. Jeep tours and
mountain biking also serve to bring
visitors up close and personal with
wonders that words fail to describe.
Visitors to the Presidio area need
not be concerned about their safety,
as this is one of the safest areas in
the United States. The crime rate is
miniscule (less than 10% of the national average), and the neighboring
town of Ojinaga is also among the
safest in Mexico. You can travel these
beautiful, wide-open spaces without
the worries associated with visiting
other, larger border towns. Prepare
yourself for an immersive journey of
relaxation, discovery, and wide-eyed
wonder. Let Presidio, truly one of
our nation’s hidden treasures, serve as
your base of operations.
This massive park of almost
300,000 acres flanks the “River Road”
and features trailheads, small recreation areas, primitive camping and
river access points.
www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/bigbend/
D FM 170 WEST —
MOTORCYCLE RIDE TO
RUIDOSA AND CHINATI
HOT SPRINGS
About 36 miles northwest of Presidio
on FM 170, Ruidosa, a once thriving agricultural community, today is
home to a general store, the ruins of
the historic Sagrado Corazon Mission,
which was built in 1914, and cantinas
that serve beer and wine in the evenings. Also at the end of FM 170 is
Candelaria, a beautiful drive often not
seen by most visitors.
Attractions
ST. FRANCIS PLAZA
A
BIG BEND RANCH STATE
PARK
C
St. Francis Plaza, a walled garden with benches and fountains,
is dedicated to the contributions of
Franciscan Missionaries to Presidio
and Ojinaga.
B FORT LEATON STATE
HISTORIC SITE
The Chinati Hot Springs features constant 110 degree, mineral-rich waters
which have been regarded for their
healing qualities for well over 100 years.
Fees are charged for baths, cabins, and
camping. The graded dirt Hot Springs
Road heads north from FM 170 just past
Ruidosa. www.chinatihotsprings.com
Visit a massive, fortified adobe
trading post dating from the 1840s.
Interpretive exhibits highlight area history. Day-use only.
www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/fortleat/
67
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BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 57
170
Twenty miles north of Presidio
on Highway 67 are the remains
of a once prosperous silver mining
town. Extensive ruins are visible,
though fenced against trespassing.
Shafter is Texas’ only working silver
mine operated by Rio Grande Silver
mine.
F
OJINAGA, MEXICO
An easy drive across the
International Bridge, Ojinaga
welcomes visitors with a variety of
excellent restaurants and shops, a
casual atmosphere, and friendly,
helpful locals. The cultural museum
is a must see on the road from the
International Bridge. www.ojinaga.
com
LA JUNTA DE LOS RIOS
G La Junta de los Rios is a historic
farming and trading areas at the
junction of the Rio Grande (celled Rio
del Norte by the Spanish) and the Rio
Conchos.
H ELEPHANT ROCK &
PROFILE OF LINCOLN
This bizarre rock structure can be
viewed from Highway 67 just outside
of Shafter. Another favorite rock
novelty, the profile of Lincoln can be
viewed from Highway 67 just north of
Presidio.
I
Presidio Aquatic
Center & Sports
Complex
Go swimming at the new swimming
pool or catch a ballgame. In Presidio,
baseball is our local pastime.
http://presidiotx.us
J
Presidio Port Of
Entry
U.S. Customs and Border
Protection, open to Traffic 24/7.
Phone 432 229 3349, 99400 Highway
67, PO Box 1959, Presidio, Texas 79845
Check out the wait times updated
hourly: http://apps.cbp.gov/bwt/rss.
asp?portList=240301&f=html
K
FM 170 East (River
road)
National Geographic magazine
calls FM 170 to Presidio one of the
“Top 10 Scenic Highways in North
America” It is a favorite touring ride
for motorcycle enthusiasts. Ride to
Presidio!
58 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
Events
Presidio Business Directory
FOURTH OF JULY
The Presidio Municipal Development District (PMDD)
The Fourth of July Celebration in
Presidio is held at Daly Park. Vendor
booths and activities are planned.
Celebrating our nation’s birthday with
a fun-filled evening of free games,
free swimming, food, music and of
course fireworks! (432) 229-3517
2014 Border Zone INTERNATIONAL UFO FESTIVAL
Friday, October 24 and Saturday,
October 25. This year’s Festival
features Nick Pope, a UFO expert who
has been called “the real Fox Mulder.”
For 21 years, Nick was in charge of the
British government’s “X Files,” investigating UFO sightings, crop circles,
alien abductions and ESP.
Also scheduled to appear are authors Noe Torres and Ruben Uriarte,
whose 2007 book Mexico’s Roswell,
put Presidio, Texas, on the “UFO
map” by disclosing an amazing flying
saucer incident that occurred within
50 miles of Presidio.
DUDE OF THE DEAD MUSIC
FESTIVAL
507 W. O’Reilly St. • 432-229-3517 xt 106
Presidio Tourism Department
507 W. O’Reilly St. City Hall • (432) 229 3199 • www.presidiotx.us
Places to Stay
Three Palms Inn
1200 N. Erma Ave
(432)229-3211
Riata Inn Motel
99205 Hwy 67 N
(432) 229-2528
Big Bend Telephone
106 Fernando Daly St.
Telephone and Internet service
(800)-592-4781
Big Bend Trucking
Box 892
Trucking services
(432)295-1136
Bullet Transport
Shopping
& Services
A & C Furniture
403 E. O’Reilly St.
Furniture and mattresses
(432)-229-2882
Alco Discount
1000 US Hwy 67
Department store
(432)-229-3166
99203 Hwy 67
International transportation, warehouse services, long-term parking
(432)-229 4427
Dollar General Store
1304 W. O’Reilly St.
Discount store
(432) 229-4284
Dollar Tree
312 W. O’Reilly St.
Everything’s a $1
Discount Store
Oct. 24-25, 2014. Two days of camping
and community, one day of music
and festivities.
http://dudeofthedead.net/
All Aboard
America Bus Line
102 W. Center St.
Passenger bus transportation
(432) 229-3003
501 E. O’Reilly St.
Coin-op laundromat
Arts Festival
Alma’s Beauty Salon
The Presidio Arts Festival is inviting local artists, student artists, professional
and amateur alike, dance groups,
musicians, performers and cultural
organizations to participate in the
ninth annual Presidio Arts Festival.
This event is an annual celebration
held the last weekend in March.
http://arts.presidiotx.us
901 E. O’Reilly
Men and women’s hairstyling
and cuts
(432)-229-4566 or 432-294-1796
902 E. O’Reilly St.
Indoor gym, exercise equip.
FIRST CHRISTMAS IN TEXAS
After Cabeza de Vaca’s visit, a number
of Spanish expeditions came to present Presidio County, the first in 1581.
The entrada of Juan Domínguez de
Mendoza and Father Nicolás López
in 1683–84 established seven missions at seven pueblos along the river
in the La Junta area. In 1683 Father
López celebrated the first Christmas
Mass ever observed in Texas at La
Junta in modern day Presidio, Texas.
Angell Expeditions
FM 170 West
River trips, Jeep excursions and
guided tours
(432) 229-3713
Arevalo Tax Service
302 W. Louvain Ave.
(432) 229 4385
Alse Miscellaneous Store
1120 O’Reilly St.
Imports, cosmetics & household
goods
American Taxi
International transportation service
(432)-238-1366 or 1367
Nights: (432)-229-2641
Amistad Loan Co.
100 N. Erma Ave.
Small loans
(432)-229-2417
Downtown Laundry
Editbody Fitness
Escontrias Brokerage
99011 Hwy 76
Custom broker, long-term parking
(432)-229-4305
Family Dollar Store
404 W. O’Reilly St.
Discount store
(432)-229-3849
Farmers Insurance
507 US Hwy 67
Home & auto insurance, Mexico
insurance
(432)-229-2874
First Presidio Bank
601 N. Erma Ave.
Banking & ATM service
(432)-229-3724
Ft. Davis State Bank
206 E. O’Reilly St.
Banking & ATM service
(432)-229-5000
FROM TOP: UFO BORDERZONE.COM, BRAD NEWTON
SHAFTER
E
Glamor Bridal & Quince
Montana Western Wear
250 Gonzales St.
Women’s formal gowns & dresses
1120 O’Reilly St.
Western apparel
(432) 229-3224
Harper Hardware
701 W. O’Reilly St.
Hardware, paint, plumbing
(432)-229-3256
Indi’s Boutique
701 E. O’Reilly St.
Women’s clothing
(432)-229-3798
Karina’s Discount Store
103 E. Commerce St.
Clothing & accessories store
(432)-229-4767
L & S Warehouse
1400 Foothill
Cold beverages & beer to go
UETA
The Enlightened Bean
1305 W. O’Reilly St.
Duty-free liquor and perfumes
(432) 229-3766
Pilo’s Thrift Store
Valenzuela Mexico
Insurance
201 W. O’Reilly St.
Breakfast & lunch only,
sandwiches, espresso
(432) 229-3131
1300 O’Reilly St.
Thrift Store items
99203 Hwy 67.
Mexican auto Insurance
(915) 493-4288
Presidio Lumber
502 W. O’Reilly St.
Hardware and lumber
(432) 229-3320
Velasco Dump &
Backhoe Services
La Junta Insurance
Presidio Taxi
1403 O’Reilly St.
Insurance, real estate,
Mexico insurance
(432)-229-4621
Transportation service
(432) 229-2959
M. Nieto Department
Store
903 W. O’Reilly St.
Dry Goods, appliances,
and ranch supply
(432) 229-3220
M & M Ramirez Store
705 O’Reilly St.
Discount clothing
(432) 229-3526
Mario Vargas Customs
House Broker
409 W Rosedale Ave.
Custom services, long-term parking
(432) 229-4902
Maverick Finance
of Texas
709 E. O’Reilly St.
Small loans, tax preparation
(432) 229-3686
Melrose Family Fashions
502 W. O’Reilly St.
Clothing department store
(432) 229-2955
513 O’Reilly St.
Mexican & American cuisine
(432) 229-4409
506 O’Reilly St.
Footwear
(432) 229-2991
Presidio Medical Center
805 O’Reilly St.
Flowers & floral arrangements
(432) 229-2414
El Patio Restaurant
Payless Shoe Source
410 N. Belmont
Mexico export custom broker,
US Postal Services
(432)-229-4494
Las Flores de Van Gogh
Triangulo West
Drive-Thru
501 E. O’Reilly St.
Health Services
(432) 229-4246
1209 Utopia Rd.
Earth moving equipment, site prep.
(432) 229-3769
WTG Fuels
1508 E. Huckabee St.
Propane tanks filled
(432) 229-3614
Xtreme Wireless
Presidio Cable
511 O’Reilly St.
Internet & cable television provider
(432) 229-3805
700 W. O’Reilly St.
Page Plus, AT&T and Verizon wireless
sales & service
(432)-229-3940
Rainbow Self-Service
Laundry
Places to Eat
912 O’Reilly St.
Coin-op laundromat
(432) 229-3036
Big A Mart
200 E. FM 170
Convenience store, snacks & beer
(432) 229-4113
Rosalba Vazquez
700 W. O’Reilly St.
Notary public
(432) 229-2573
R’s Restaurant and Bar
1207 E. Millington St. on FM 170 E
Beverages, hamburger
and appetizers
(432) 229-3388
RR Supply / True Value
Hardware
205 W. O’Reilly St.
Hardware, plumbing
(432) 229-2545
Don Jose Panaderia
109 Erma St.
Mexican Bakery, menudo, barbacoa
(432) 229-3424
Santa Fe Cabinets
405 E. O’Reilly St.
Custom made wood cabinets
(432) 229-2995
D’Charly Restaurant
300 W. O’Reilly St.
Hair design
(432) 295-0871
Sotelo Iron Works
Safe and convenient access to Mexico and the US.
La Cabana
700 E. O’Reilly St.
Mexican & American cuisine
(432) 229-3368
La Escondida
Restaurant & Bar
1215 Utopia Rd.
Beer & wine, American &
Mexican cuisine
(432) 229-2701
Oasis Restaurant
1200 N. Erma Ave.
Mexican & American cuisine
(432) 229-3998
Poncho’s Pizza N Video
307 E. O’Reilly St.
Pizza
(432) 229-2660
Presidio 67
316 Jose Rodriquez St.
Snacks, burritos & more, gasoline
(432) 229-4949
Presidio Thriftway
504 N. Erma Ave.
Groceries, bakery, chicken, pizza
(432) 229-3776
Subway Sandwiches
1309 Hwy. 67
Sandwiches, salads, pizza, soups
(432) 229-2505
DY Convenience Store
Custom welding, grills, benches
(432) 229-4040 or (432) 940-2116
International Border Crossing
& Commercial Trade Zone
402 Texas St.
Mexican food & burgers to go
(432) 294-2357
100 Market St.
Mexican taste & tradition
(432) 229-2600
SoLange Hair Salon
Presidio, Texas
Discover great commerce opportunities!
El Changarrito
104 E. O’Reilly St.
Snacks, burritos & more, gasoline
(432) 229-4488
Passport to
ess!
Brillian t Succ
Presidio Municipal Development
District supports our local
businesses with this directory.
Presidio Municipal
Development District
.us
P.O. Box 3329, Presidio, TX 79845
esIDIoTx
w w w.Pr
(432) 229-3517 • email: DCOP@presidiotx.us
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 55
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VAN HORN
BIG BEND
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Terlingua
Terlingua
&
STUDY BUTTE
T
On the first Saturday of November, over 10,000 “chiliheads”
convene in Terlingua for two annual chili cook-offs: the Chili Appreciation Society International and
the Frank X. Tolbert/Wick Fowler
World Chili Championships. These
events have come to personify Terlingua and spread the reputation of
this small village worldwide.
Study
Butte
(pronounced
“stoody byoot”) may be lesser known,
but it is the economic hub of the area.
Many stores and amenities cater to
tourists and locals alike. If you’re
tired from hiking and camping, you
may even opt for an air-conditioned
room at Big Bend Resort.
Attractions
HISTORIC TERLINGUA AND THE
TERLINGUA GHOST TOWN
On Highway 170, five miles west of 118,
Terlingua Ghost Town holds the largest
concentration of mining architecture in
the area, restored as shops, restaurants
and homes. Favorite stops include the
Starlight Theatre and the front porch of
the Trading Post. www.ghosttowntexas.
com
ROSS MAXWELL SCENIC DRIVE
T
of cinnabar, from which the metal mercury is extracted,
in the mid-1880s brought miners to the area. The only remnants of the
mining days are a ghost town of the Howard Perry-owned Chisos Mining
Company and several nearby capped and abandoned mines, most notably
the California Hill, the Rainbow, the 248 and the Study Butte mines. The
mineral terlinguaite was first found in the vicinity of California Hill.
The cinnabar was apparently known to Native Americans, who prized its
brilliant red color for body pigment. Various Mexican and American prospectors
gained access to the area through new train lines and there was also a decreasing
threat of hostile Indians. The population of Terlingua in 2000 was 267. Due to its
proximity to Big Bend National Park, Terlingua/Study Butte is mostly a tourist destination. Rafting on the Rio Grande, mountain biking, camping, hiking and motorcycling are some of the outdoor activities favored by tourists. No trip is complete
without a trip into what they call the “ghost town” of Terlingua. From the famous
trading post front porch, you can get a good view of the Chisos Mountain formation
in Big Bend called “Mule Ears.” It will be easy to see why, once you’ve spotted it.
After that, dinner (and possibly a show) at the Starlight Theater is must.
BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK
If you’ve made it this far, Big Bend National Park is probably on your itinerary.
Terlingua and Study Butte is a great area
from which to base your national park
adventure.
CONTRABANDO
Contrabando was built as a movie set
in the mid-’80s for the film Uphill all the
Way. It is within Big Bend Ranch State
Park, five miles west of Lajitas on Highway 170. Since 1985, the site has been
used as a set for nine movies including
Lone Star, as well as Dead Man’s Walk and
Streets of Laredo, which were part of the
Lonesome Dove miniseries based on the
novel by Larry McMurtry.
NATALIE PATTILLO
HE DISCOVERY
A stunning driving tour of the western
side of Big Bend, the loop passes many
favorite trail heads and ends at the majestic Santa Elena Canyon. The improved
dirt Maverick Road leads back to the
park entrance at Maverick Junction.
60 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
BIG BEND & LAJITAS
STABLES
www.lajitasstables.com/index.html
lajitasstables@bigbend.net
(800) 887-4331 / (432) 371-3064
Offering guided horseback rides for
almost 30 years! Join us in the Frontier Lands of the Chihuahuan Desert
next to Big Bend National Park, along
Scenic Rio Grande and atop the
mesas of the Bofecillos Mountains in
Big Bend Ranch State Park. Hourly,
Half or All Day & Multiple Days.
Events
CAMINO DEL RIO —
THE RIVER ROAD
Highway 170 along the Rio Grande
is a favorite among travelers with
several camping areas, river access
points and trailheads along the way.
At places the road becomes narrow,
winding and very steep, making it
difficult for some RVs, buses and
trailer rigs.
RIDE THE RIO GRANDE
Terlingua/Study Butte is the jumping
off point for your river adventure.
The area boasts a number of experienced outfitters that will make your
trip, whether it be by raft, canoe or
kayak, fun and safe.
RIO AVIATION INC. AIR TOURS
(432) 557-9477
www.rioaviation.com
Rio Aviation Specializes in scenic
flights over some of the most
spectacular country along the Rio
Grande, including Big Bend Ranch
State Park, Big Bend National Park,
and the Rio Grande Wild and Scenic
river. Tours include a birds eye view
of some of the most spectacular
features in the area including the
Solitario, Santa Elena Canyon, and
the Devils Playground. Flights are
conducted in a Cessna 205. The
plane can accommodate up to four
FROM TOP: STEWART RAMSER, COURTSEY BIG BEND RESORTS, COURTESY RIO AVIATION, COURTESY CHARLIE ANGELL
Outfitters &
Tours
ANGELL EXPEDITIONS
(432) 229-3713 or (305) 336-2787
www.angellexpeditions.com
Full-service outfitter serving the
greater Big Bend area. River rafting,
canoeing, kayaking, jeep tours, hiking, mountain biking and camping.
Single and multi-day trips available,
tailored to your interests and schedules. Highest ranking on TripAdvisor!
TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL
CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP
Chili Appreciation Society International’s annual event is held at
Rancho CASI de los Chisos on the
north side of Highway 170, 11 miles
west of Study Butte. CASI hosts the
47th Annual Championship on the
first weekend of November. The festivities include BBQ, salsa, beans and
wings contests. There is live music
entertainment on both Friday and
Saturday nights. www.chili.org
TERLINGUA GREEN SCENE
The Terlingua Green Scene consists
of groups of like minded citizens in
the Terlingua community promoting
a “Green Lifestyle” by supporting a
number of “Green” projects such as
the Community Garden, the Farmers
Market , Recycling and the yearly
Green Scene Festival.
RIDE 4 TRAILS
passengers comfortably, and the
high wing configuration provides
an excellent platform for flightseeing and photography. Rio Aviation
was founded by retired Ranger
Marcos Paredes and his knowledge
of the area and emphasis on safety
assure an enjoyable and memorable
adventure.
The annual Ride 4 Trails Motorcycle
Rally is a fundraiser to support the
trails program in Big Bend National
Park. Bikers from all over the country
converge on Big Bend Resorts & Adventures to participate in a weekend
of live music, poker runs and great
Texas barbecue — all to support
the construction and maintenance
of hiking and stock trails in the
park. The evening of Oct. 18 (2014)
features a Texas-themed dinner with
BBQ brisket, sausage, cobbler for
desert plus all the trimmings, followed by dancing with live music.
Lodging
B.J.’S RV PARK
Hwy 170 W., 8 miles from Big Bend
National Park, 1 mi le east of Terlingua
Ghost Town.
(432) 371-2259
www.bjrvpark.com
Close to restaurants and music, pet
friendly, Wi-Fi, full hookups, 50 amps.
BIG BEND RESORT &
ADVENTURES
Three miles from western entrance to
Big Bend National Park.
(432) 371-2218 / (800) 848-2363
www.bigbendresortadventures.com
Lodging, gift shop, food and convenience store.
LAJITAS GOLF RESORT/
MAVERICK RANCH RV PARK
Off Hwy 170; (432) 424-5000
www.lajitasgolfresort.com
The full-service resort in Lajitas is
also home to a beautiful 18-hole
golf course, a world-class equestrian
center and an outfitter service for all
your hiking, mountain biking, rafting,
kayaking and outdoor activity needs.
Maverick Ranch RV Park offers 101
sites, including 60 full-service pullthroughs and 18 primitive wilderness
campsites for those interested in
having a true rustic tent camping
experience. Agava Spa, located inside
resort, offers massages, facials and
body treatments. The gift shops are
located in an Old West promenade,
an eclectic mix of shops. Only fullservice resort near Big Bend Ranch
State Park and National Park.
HOLIDAY HOTEL
Located between Study Butte and
Lajitas on Highway 170, in the heart of
the Historic Terlingua Ghost Town.
(432) 386-0021
www.bigbendholidayhotel.com
Sophisticated accommodations in a
primitive setting. Lovingly restored
suites, casitas, and family suites.
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 61
GUADALUPE MTS.
y
•
ODESSA
Toyahvale
•
ALPINE
BIG BEND
Toyahvale
&
BALMORHEA
BALMORHEA STATE PARK
In addition to the spring-fed pool, the State
Park features the Cienega Wetlands Restoration, a refuge for indigenous aquatic and amphibian life. Visitors can stay in San Solomon
Springs Courts or at the campground.
BALMORHEA LAKE
T
HE POOL maintains a constant temperature of 72-76ºF, making it an ideal spot for swimming or scuba diving excursions
year-round. Canals channel the water along Highway 17 into
Balmorhea (pronounced BAL-moray), where a charming city
park flanks the watercourse. Once a stagecoach stop between
Fort Stockton and Fort Davis, the Toyahvale Post Office was
established in 1891. The drive from Fort Davis on Highway 17, through
the scenic Davis Mountains and Wild Rose Pass, is one of the prettiest
in the region.
62 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
Only two miles south of Balmorhea, on
County Road 319 (Houston Street), this 600acre lake – stocked seasonally with a variety
of fish – is a popular destination for birders.
A $3 visitor fee is payable at the lake store. RV
spaces and picnic areas are available. Swimming is not allowed.
CALERA CHAPEL
Mission Mary at Calera is located west of Toyahvale on Highway 290. The church, which
served the area from around 1902 into the
1940s, was restored in 2002.
TOYAHVALE DESERT OASIS
The only outfitter by the park! Visit this fullservice dive shop for swim gear and to schedule scuba diving lessons in the crystal-clear
waters of San Solomon Springs. Scuba and
snorkeling gear rentals. Plus, all the supplies
you’ll need to make your Balmorhea State
Park visit fun, safe and memorable.
WILL VAN OVERBEEK COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION
The waters of San Solomon Springs surface at
Toyahvale, where the 1.75-acre spring-fed
swimming pool at Balmorhea State Park provides visitors with a welcome opportunity for
refreshing recreation in the desert. The spring
flows 22 to 28 million gallons of water per day.
GUADALUPE MTS.
Attractions
ODESSA
•
GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS
NATIONAL PARK
y
Van Horn
Enjoy one of the most beautiful drives
in Texas en route to the stunning and
varied landscapes of the Guadalupe
Mountains. Just one hour north of Van
Horn, this national park is home to the
highest peak in the state – Guadalupe
Peak at 8,749 feet. Enjoy a variety of hiking trails accessible year-round, historic
sites and interpretive displays. See page
22 for much more information on Guadalupe Mountains National Park.
www.nps.gov/gumo
BIG BEND
THE EL CAPITAN TO EL CAPITAN
HERITAGE BIKE ROUTE
A 55-mile ride along a scenic and historic
route! Cyclists from all over are coming
to ride Highway 54 between the Historic
Hotel El Capitan and El Capitan Mountain
in Guadalupe Mountains National Park.
www.texasmountaintrail.com/bike.
CLARK HOTEL MUSEUM
Van Horn
BETH NOBLES
V
Van Horn is the crossroads of the
Texas Mountain Trail.
AN HORN WAS established in 1881, when the
Texas and Pacific Railway came through. Before that, it was a stopping point for travelers
on the Old Spanish Trail
and the San Antonio-El
Paso Overland Mail route.
Today, Van Horn is the county
seat of Culberson County, sitting
at the helm of the western portion
of the region, almost exactly half-
way between Fort Stockton and El
Paso. Of the many area attractions, a
large number of visitors to Van Horn
are those heading up to Guadalupe
Mountains National Park and on
to Carlsbad Caverns just across the
Texas/New Mexico border. Many
choose to stay in the newly remodeled historic Hotel El Capitan, one of
the Trost & Trost hotels that dot this
part of the country. The El Capitan
is a newly remodeled gem of historic
architecture.
Anyone interested in the historical
aspects of West Texas will want to stop
at the Clark Hotel Museum. Located
in the historic hotel that once served
railroad travelers, this museum features
pioneer, Native American and railroad
memorabilia. The Museum contains a
stunning collection of artifacts reflecting the history of Van Horn and the
surrounding area. There are displays
showing the history of mining, ranching,
the railroad, and other early activities, as
well as personal items which belonged
to members of early pioneer families
who first settled here. It features an old
western-style saloon with a mirrored
back bar, which have been in the same
room since the early 1900s.
www.clarkhotelmuseum.com
Lodging
HOTEL EL CAPITAN
100 East Broadway
(877) 283-1220
www.hotelelcapitan.net
The Hotel El Capitan was built in 1930
based on designs by notable architect
Henry Trost, of Trost & Trost of El Paso.
After a $2.5 million renovation, the
El Capitan is even more superb than
in 1930. There are now 38 rooms and
suites, a fine dining room and the
Gopher Hole Bar.
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 63
Photography in the
Big Bend Region
I
S IT ANY WONDER the Big Bend region draws photog-
raphers from all corners? With its combination of desert
and majestic landscapes, the dramatic canyons of the Rio
Grande, the spectacularly eroded Chisos Mountains and
remnants of pioneer ranch life, Big Bend presents a wealth
of subjects to the photographic eye. Add early morning and
late evening sunlight, summer thunderstorms and clear,
star-spattered night skies, and the photographic opportunities are
simply irresistible. Located in far West Texas, the region embraced
by the big bend of the Rio Grande is one of the most remarkable
areas in the country. It’s also one of the few places left in America
where a person can almost literally get away from it all. Big Bend
National Park is several hundred miles from any large city, and the
64 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
grandeur, remoteness, rich history and dramatic ecological diversity
has created an almost mythic status with visitors who find their way
there. This is a bold landscape with constantly changing views — a
playground of light, rugged mountains, rolling desert hills and deep
river canyons that create endless intrigue. Sunrise and sunset allow
the opportunity to watch and photograph light dancing across the
rock faces millions of years in age. In short, Big Bend offers photographers scenic opportunities not available elsewhere.
In the following pages we will feature the photography of Marathon-based James Evans, whose famous far West Texas images are
showcased in two of his books: Crazy from the Heat and Big Bend
Pictures. In addition there are photos from various residents and
travelers with their thoughts on shooting in the Big Bend region.
Photography in the
Big Bend Region
IN DECEMBER
2013 I celebrated
25 years of living
in and photographing Big
Bend and West
Texas. The decision for me to
move here was
the one of the best I’ve ever made.
I am starting to know myself very
well. It’s helping me grow into the
kind of person I want to be and has
opened the door to the kind of photography and art I want to explore. I
never wanted to make photographs
or books of the area like I had seen
previously. What interested me from
the beginning was the kind of person
that chooses to live here and to photograph them in a way that captured
that spirit. My first book, Big Bend
Pictures took that concept into consideration more than the landscape. I
am very proud of it, and it is currently
in its third printing. My second book
Crazy From The Heat explores my
approach to making photographs,
and that is simply whatever I find
interesting that day. It’s a widely
varied body of work. I try to keep my
artistic mind open and it is important
for me to keep challenging my abilities, and my comfort zone. This area
provides me with more inspiration
and ideas than I will ever be able to
complete. I also process and print all
of my own photographs. Half of the
creative process is in the darkroom. I
still print traditionally as well as digitally.
I see my work as part documentary, part historian, and part artist, and
hopefully it all intertwines and says
something about me and the time I
lived on the planet. – James Evans
JAVELINA
James Evans
OCOTILLO AND STARS
James Evans
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 65
Photography in the
Big Bend Region
TULE MOUNTAIN
James Evans
FIREFLIES
James Evans
RAIN
James Evans
66 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
OPHELIA FALCON &
JIM CARRICO
James Evans
When the Boquillas crossing was
reopened last year Mike Long
and Crystal Allbright brought Jim
across the border to reunite with
Ophelia. They had not seen each
other since the closing after 911.
SUNSET 1
James Evans
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 67
Photography in the
Big Bend Region
BIG SKY
Big Bend National Park as the clouds roll in. I had to
pull over and sit and enjoy the wide open beauty.
Watching the clouds roll in out here is never boring,
instead they make you feel alive.
– Rachael Waller
SIERRA DEL CARMEN
Big Bend, for me, is the
most soul-grabbing and naturally
inspiring places to experience. This
photo was taken on a camping
trip with my two-year old daughter and our friends. It had been a
long but amazing day of setting
up tents so we headed for a soak
in the Hot Springs that evening.
We decided to pull over to watch
the sunset. All of us are area locals
but we were still in awe by Sierra
del Carmen’s beauty.The vivid
colors of the sky as the desert is
preparing for the night is beyond
captivating. The beauty here
is everlasting and for that I am
grateful.” – Natalie Pattillo
BOQUILLAS
One of my favorite day trips in the Big Bend region is to go across the border to Boquillas, Mexico. Accessible
through Big Bend National Park, the border crossing was closed right after 9/11 and just reopened in April 2013.
It’s a small community, but there are ample photo opportunities. This shot was actually taken with my phone. I
was testing settings when I inadvertently started a panoramic shot. During the pan, the child sat down next to
me and by the time he was in the frame he was blowing up the balloon. – Stewart Ramser
68 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
RIO BRAVO
As a native of the state of New Hampshire we
run from our northeastern winters. West Texas
is a special destination point for us. West Texas
in the form of Big Bend National Park provides
a wonderful focal point for my photography:
a way different color palette, mountains and
mountain ranges, the desert, and a riparian
(river) corridor. What more could one want! –
Steve McKinney
Texas
Mountain Trail
A TRAVELER’S BEST FRIEND
PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY BETH NOBLES
T
HE FIRST MORNING in
the mountains is always the
best. At dawn, you notice
the pink glow in the sky.
Hummingbirds hover above
the prickly pear. Pronghorn
graze. There’s a chill in the
air, and it won’t warm up for
a few more hours. On the
porch of your casita, coffee in hand, the city
melts away. Gone are the traffic jams, the
deadlines, and stress. You’ve got quiet here.
Adventure. Make the most of it.
So unplug. Take the day at a slower pace.
Smile and say hello to folks. This is our home;
we love it here. And we’re eager to share it with
you….that’s why we publish this guide.
If this is your first visit, use it to craft your
own personal escape in Big Bend, the Davis
Mountains and beyond.
If you’re a frequent visitor, we hope to
inspire you with a new place to eat, stay, hike,
explore. Our cities and small towns offer more
than you might think.
Our Texas Mountain Trail wants to introduce you to the encyclopedic charms of the
wildest, most rugged, beautiful, peaceful, historic places in the country, and possibly the
most purely Texan place in the state.
We also want to connect you with the history
our Texas Mountain Trail Daily Photo blog
(www.texasmountaintrail.blogspot.com). We
regularly post images of places you’ll want to
visit, and experiences you’ll want to try.
of our mountains, from the earliest geology to
ancient rock art, to the Comanche and Buffalo
Soldiers, to the adobe homes of early farmers
along the Rio Grande. Explore our forts, our
historic hotels, our county courthouses.
MORE THAN HIKING
Looking to explore the mountains on horseback? Hoping to find the best tacos in Far
West Texas? Want to know which musicians
are playing in the region? Check our website
(www.texasmountaintrail.com) for information
to help you plan your stay, as well as information about our work. And follow us on
social media—on Facebook at (www.facebook.
com/TexasMountainTrail), on Twitter @trailgirl, and Instagram at @texastrailgirl, and on
FESTIVALS AND FUN
We’ve got the only region-wide events calendar online, so when you’re planning your
trip to the Texas Mountains, consult www.
texasmountaintrail.com/events for the most
up-to-date listings of festivals, performances,
tours, and community events. Community
members post events themselves, and everyone is invited to participate. So if you’re looking for what’s new in the Big Bend, and all the
communities of Far West Texas, including our
gateway cities, check our calendar online.
BRING YOUR BIKE
Whether you’re interested in a leisurely afterdinner ride in our charming small communities, or screaming down a challenging mountain trail, Far West Texas is one of the great
places to ride your bike. We’ve added a cycling
section to our website to help you plan your
stay, from heritage bike routes to cycle-friendly
hotels, and connections to road- and mountain
biking resources. Explore it all at www.texasmountaintrail.com/bike.
Are you looking for an easy ride for
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 69
FROM TOP: COURTESY BETH NOBLES, COURTESY VISITBIGBEND.COM
the entire family? The quiet roads
and charming neighborhoods of Marfa,
Fort Davis, Alpine and Marathon are
great places to explore by bicycle. Some
communities and some hotel properties even offer bikes for rent. And our
“Ride to the Post Heritage Bike Route”
is an easy 10 mile roundtrip adventure
with very little elevation gain that just
about anyone can enjoy with ease….
perfect for a family adventure. The
ride starts at the historic Gage Hotel in
Marathon, down a quiet paved ranch
road past geologic wonders, to Post
Park, an old Buffalo Soldier encampment and an oasis for the Comanche
and Apache, and early miners and settlers. Post Park is a great place to relax,
watch the birds and wildlife and enjoy
the quiet of the mountains.
Are you looking for challenge?
Road cyclists might tackle Fort Davis’
74 mile Scenic Loop past famed
McDonald Observatory, or our “El
Capitan to El Capitan Heritage Bike
Route” from Van Horn to the base of
Guadalupe Mountains National Park.
Three state parks in our region offer
terrific mountain biking opportunities,
including Big Bend Ranch State Park,
which is rated as an EPIC ride by
the International Mountain Bicycling
Association. One of only 44 trails
worldwide earning this designation,
the park’s Sauceda Loop offers highly
technical sections on single-track, old
4x4 and jeep roads, as well as easier
sections alongside historic routes, old
cinnabar mines, ancient rock art, and
old homesteads.
There’s a select group of historic
hotels, tourist camps, bed and breakfasts, resorts and chain motels ready
to provide special services to cyclists
through our Texas Mountain Trail
cycle-friendly hotels program. They
allow you to park your bike inside your
room, and may offer other services from
packed lunches for your day on the
road, to sag services, updated weather
information and more.
We also work to support our communities. This year, our Texas Mountain
Trail teamed with local cyclists and
another non-profit organization to promote reading and safe cycling, and distributed free books for schoolchildren
in Terlingua/Study Butte, Fort Davis,
Alpine and Dell City.
RECOGNIZING OUR HEROES
One of our biggest joys is to recognize
the special people who go above and
beyond to make sure our travelers expe-
JOIN US
When you join as a member
of the Texas Mountain Trail,
you bring even more value to
the region through heritage
and adventure projects like
the Far West Texas Wildlife
Trail, the Peak Fitness
Challenge, heritage bike
routes, cycle-friendly activities, heritage storytelling projects and support for visitors
and our mountain communities. And since we’re a 501 c
3 non-profit, your membership is tax-deductible!
How to join? Click the
“Donate” link at the upper
right of our homepage, www.
texasmountaintrail.com!
rience the best of our region. Our Texas
Mountain Trail Hospitality Heroes
program was inspired by Van Horn
resident, Ralph Gilmore, who “never
met a stranger” and provided exemplary
service at his Crossroads Coffee Shop.
Ralph is still serving travelers as the
General Manager of the historic Hotel
El Capitan, where his friendliness continues to impress visitors.
Our honor roll of Hospitality Heroes
includes:
· Ralph Gilmore, Van Horn, Crossroads
Coffee Shop, now at the Hotel El
Capitan for exemplary service and
friendliness to travelers
· The City of Van Horn (City, County,
School District, EMS/Hospital, Fire
Department employees) and local
Texas Department of Transportation
employees for service to travelers when
I-10 closes in bad weather
· Hyatt Place El Paso Airport for exemplary service to travelers and to the
development of our Texas Mountain
Trail and the region, including our
cycle-friendly hotels program
· Bill Blaziek, retiring General Manager
of the El Paso Convention and Visitors
Bureau for his years of service to the
region
·Glennda Merritt-Alcorn, Hudspeth
County EMS, for her leadership in
upgrading emergency services in
Hudspeth County
· Marfa Public Radio, for life-saving
coverage during the 2011 wildfires
· Barrett Durst and the staff of Big Bend
Ranch State Park for exemplary care of
visitors during inclement weather
· State Representative Dee Margo for
championing preservation and heritage
programming in Texas, including the
Texas Heritage Trails program
This year, three more awards will be
presented to:
· Larry Staton, of Big Bend Resort and
Adventures, for unfailing support of our
Texas Mountain Trail programs
· Don Baumgardt, of Pinata Publishing,
the El Paso Visitors Guide, and
GeoBetty.com for support of our Peak
Fitness Challenge and adventure tourism in the region
· Compadres Del Ranch Grande,
the friends organization of Big Bend
Ranch State Park, for support of the
award-winning El Solitario newsletter
Now that we’re friends, we hope you’ll
keep in touch with the mountains
through our website, (www.texasmountaintrail.com) and our social media
communities on Facebook, Twitter, and
Instagram. Mostly, we hope our Big
Bend and Texas Mountain Travel Guide
inspires you to head our way again, with
all new adventures planned to explore
every corner of Far West Texas.
FIND US
www.texasmountaintrail.com
www.facebook.com/
TexasMountainTrail
www.twitter.com/trailgirl
www.instagram.com/
texastrailgirl
http://www.youtube.com/user/
TMTrail
Special features:
www.issuu.com/trailgirl
BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 71
Last Look
Fort Davis native Glenn Moreland prepares an authentic cowboy breakfast on the grounds of the Fort Davis National Historic Site. The Fort, with
the Davis Mountains in the background, is a picture-perfect location for
an early morning dining experience.
72 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM
STEVE McKINNEY
Rise and Shine