BIG BEND - City of Presidio, Texas
Transcription
BIG BEND - City of Presidio, Texas
Contents BIG BEND AND TEXAS MOUNTAINS TRAVEL GUIDE Welcome to the Guide 10 Regional Map 12 Calendar of Events 15 National & State Parks 8 Big Bend National Park Guadalupe Mountains National Park City Listings 25 32 35 38 42 44 47 51 53 55 56 60 62 63 64 Alpine El Paso Fort Davis Fort Stockton Lajitas Marathon Marfa Midland Odessa Ozona Presidio Terlingua/Study Butte Toyahvale/Balmorhea Van Horn Features Photography in the Big Bend featuring James Evans Texas Mountain Trail Last Look GREG HILLJE 72 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 7 Publisher’s Letter Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide! This is the second year that I’ve had the privilege of publishing this travel guide. It has been published once a year since 1984, which is pretty impressive! I’d like to thank Beth Nobles and Ron Sanders with the Texas Mountain Trail for their commitment to the travel guide and for the opportunity given to our team to publish it. I love to travel throughout the area, and even before I became the publisher I carried the publication with me for vital information and tips. It’s an incredible resource for anyone wishing to explore the region. For example, you’ll find information on various parks (state and national), as well as a city-by-city guide. In addition, there is a feature about photography in the Big Bend. One of the main subjects of this story is the renowned photographer, James Evans, who is based in Marathon. I remember on one of my very first trips to the region I met James, who told me that he decided to move to the region on his third trip to the area. It only took me a couple more trips to decide to establish a residence in Alpine. The allure of the Big Bend region is strong and whether you’re a first-time or repeat visitor I hope you have a wonderful time in this amazing part of Texas. We have many important contributors to the travel guide, and you can read about some of them on this page, but in addition I’d like to thank the guide’s designer, Martha GazellaTaylor, who was born and raised in Odessa and went to Permian High School. As far as my background, I wear a few hats. In addition to being the publisher and founder of Texas Music magazine, I am currently working with the City of Alpine as tourism director. I also produce Viva Big Bend, which is held in Alpine, Fort Davis, Marathon and Marfa (our music festival is the last weekend of July each year). I hope you’ll find as much enjoyment in visiting this area as we do in promoting it. Thank you for reading the 2014/15 Big Bend and Texas Mountains Travel Guide, and happy trails! — Stewart Ramser A MESSAGE FROM Texas Mountain Trail WELCOME TO the beautiful mountains of far West Texas, to our quiet communities, to our colorful sunsets and to our frontier! Our Texas Mountain Trail nonprofit organization is proud to present the latest edition of the Big Bend and Texas Mountain Travel Guide with Ramser Media, and we hope it helps you get the most out of your stay. Since 2005, we’ve been reaching out to travelers with information about far West Texas, encouraging folks to spend their vacations in our mountains. We’ve also worked with community leaders here to make the region more visitor-friendly by developing programs like the Far West Texas Wildlife Trail and our cycle-friendly hotels and heritage bike routes. Let us know what you think of the Guide, and ways we can make your stay more enjoyable. Kick back, enjoy the quiet, seek your adventure and have the time of your life! — Beth Nobles 8 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM Contributors James Evans Originally from West Virginia, James Evans has been based in Marathon for 25 years, and is perhaps the most well known photographer of the Big Bend region. Two very popular books showcase his artistry: Big Bend Pictures and Crazy from the Heat. In an Austin American-Statesman, Evans explains the appeal of the region. “The vastness of it all, the freedom you feel when you’re in the parl ... in a week I was sold.” Martha Gazella-Taylor Martha GazellaTaylor is the designer for the Big Bend & Texas Mountains Travel Guide. She hails from Odessa, the “big city” of West Texas. She has since moved, gone to school , started a family and created a graphic design business in Austin. Texas. Ironically it wasn’t until she moved to Austin — with it’s religious appreciation of fitness and the outdoors — that she found herself trekking back to Far West Texas to see for the first time what the parks had to offer. She has been hooked ever since. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: MAY LEAL, COURTESY JIM GLENDINNING, COURTESY JESSICA LUTZ, COURTESY BETH NOBLES THANK YOU for picking up a copy of the 2014/15 Big Map Must a n 62 180 Paso ElEl Paso 62 Red Bluff Reservoir Kermit 302 CULBERSON 17 20 oG Ri Balmorhea Van Horn n ra Toyahvale de MEXICO MEXICO Kent 10 Lake Toyah Pecos River 329 18 137 385 Rankin 163 Big Lake 67 67 163 349 Bu Iraan 10 JEFF DAVIS 158 Sterling City 87 REAGAN McCamey Fort Stockton Balmorhea Lake 329 385 Co Rivncho er STERLING 349 UPTON 163 rth Garden City Crane CRANE Imperial Reservoir GLASSCOCK MIDLAND Penwell 87 No Odessa Monahans reek Sierra Blanca Pecos Stanton 158 302 ECTOR 20 115 WARD REEVES MOUNTAIN STAND ARD TIME CENTRAL STANDARD TIME 10 302 WINKLER Wink HUDSPETH 54 1111 Midland 158 Toyah C 20 20 349 18 LOVING Socorro Soccorro San SanElizario Elizario 176 115 128 180 GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK MARTIN raw Dell City • EL PASO Andrews ANDREWS NEW MEXICO NEW MEXICO 54 137 D g 10 349 115 385 176 ck ho 190 349 137 rn Dr 190 aw 17 90 PECOS 166 Fort Davis 505 Ozona Sheffield 277 BREWSTER 67 Sonora 285 CROCKET T TERRELL 349 90 Marathon 2810 PRESIDIO SUT TON South Llano River Ri ve r VAL VERDE 118 Dryden 277 EDWARDS Shafter 90 385 Langtry Stillwell Ranch 377 Grande RioRio Grande Comstock Presidio Presidio BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK Study Terlingua Butte Lajitas Lajitas BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK Chisos Basin Castolon Heath Heath Canyon Canyon e or m ca k Sy Cree Del Rio Amistad International Reservoir Ciudad Ciudad Acuña Acuña PUBLISHER: Stewart Ramser EDITOR: Tom Buckley DESIGN: Martha Gazella-Taylor ADVERTISING DESIGN & PRODUCTION: Lisa Reiley CONTRIBUTORS: James Evans, Beth Nobles PHOTOGRAPHERS: Beth Nobles, James, Evans, Will Van Overbeek courtesy Texas Department of Transportation, J. Griffis Smith courtesy Texas Department of Transportation 67 55 Rio Grande Grande Village Village Bracketville 90 277 KINNEY 131 G U I D E 41 Rocksprings 277 377 T R A V E L 377 55 BREWSTER AND TEXAS MOUNTAINS MAVERICK 57 Eagle Pass Piedras Negras TEXAS MOUNTAIN TRAIL BOARD OF DIRECTORS AND EX-OFFICIO MEMBERS Ron Sanders — Forever Resorts, Alpine Rebecca Diaz — Hyatt Place, El Paso David Elkowitz — Big Bend National Park Melanie Gentry — Dell City David Gibson — Sul Ross State University, Alpine Linda Hedges — TPWD Fort Stockton Elizabeth Jackson — Museum of the Big Bend, Alpine Michael Lewis — El Paso County Historical Commission, El Paso Chelsie Melendez — El Paso Convention and Visitors Bureau, El Paso COVER PHOTO: James Evans John Morlock — Fort Davis National Historic Site Travis Roberts —Brewster County Historical Commission, Marathon The Big Bend Travel Guide is licensed Drew Stuart —Hudspeth County Herald and Dell Valley for publication by the Texas Mountain Review, Dell City Trail. © 2014 All rights reserved. Jennifer Turner — Mountain Trails Lodge, Fort Davis 277 Rio Grande 18 285 10 Fort Stockton High School In the spring of 2013, the border crossing at Boquillas reopened as a result of enthusiastic advocates in both the United States and Mexican governments. Consider making a trip there yourself! While a travel advisory is in place from the U.S. State Department for travel in Mexico, residents of the Big Bend area continue to enjoy an extremely low incidence rate, and a visible, supportive law enforcement presence. 67 67 67 67 67 67 10 385 194 385 1 mile e nd Gra O IC 1 mile 385 67 285 385 285 James Rooney Memorial Park Pat Taylor Field Rio EX M 10 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 10 285 67 194 Presidio 170 285 377 83 Llano River Junction Telegraph ver West Nu eces Ri 67 os 90 Sanderson Ruidosa Pe c 163 North 10 River 385 Alpine Marfa 67 Devils 118 17 KIMBLE 10 83 10 CALENDAR of events BIG BEND AND TEX AS MOUNTAINS AREA • SUMMER 2015–SPRING 2015 “Coolest” 4th of July Celebration Downtown Fort Davis www.fortdavis.com See p. 36 for details FIRECRACKER FANDANGO Downtown Odessa www.odessacvb.com 2014 Date: July 4 Mustang and Cowboy Chili Cook-off Marathon Motel Marathon www.marathontexas.com 2014 Dates: July 4–7; See p. 46 for details Tall City Blues Fest Centennial Plaza Midland www.tallcitybluesfest.com 2014 Dates: July 25–27 Viva Big Bend Music Festival Multiple venues Alpine, Fort Davis, Marathon, Marfa and Lajitas www.vivabigbend.com 2014 Dates: July 22–27; See ad on p. 49 AUGUST 2014 Big Bend Balloon Bash Alpine-Casparis Airport Alpine www.bigbendballoonbash.com 2014 Dates: Aug. 30–31, Sept. 1 See p. 28 for details viva terlingua Terlingua and Lajitas www.facebook.com/ vivaterlinguafest 2014 Dates: Aug. 14–17 Davis Mountains Hummingbird Festival Limpia Hotel & various locations Fort Davis www.fortdavis.com 2014 Dates: Aug. 21–23 Permian Basin Gun Show Ector County Coliseum Odessa www.ectorcountycoliseum.org 2014 Dates: Aug. 22–24 Rock the Desert RTD Festival Field Midland www.rockthedesert.com 2014 Dates: Aug. 7–9 Plaza Classic Film Festival Various Venues El Paso www.plazaclassic.com 2014 Dates: Aug. 7–17 Marfa Lights Festival County Courthouse Marfa www.visitmarfa.com 2014 Dates: Labor Day Weekend See p. 48 for details Old Fort Days Fort Davis National Historic Site Fort Davis www.fortdavis.com 2014 Date: Labor Day Weekend Big Bend Ranch Rodeo S.A.L.E. Arena, Sul Ross University Alpine www.bigbendranchrodeo.com 2014 Dates: Aug. 8–9 See p. 28 for details The annual Big Bend Balloon Bash is held each year in Alpine on Labor Day weekend. SEPTEMBER 2014 Cyclefest Prude Ranch Fort Davis www.pbbatx.com See p. 36 for details Fort Davis Frontier and Mule Days Downtown Fort Davis Fort Davis www.fortdavis.com 2014 Dates: Sept. 26–27 Trans-Pecos Festival El Cosmico Marfa www.elcosmico.com 2014 Dates: Sept. 25–28 See p. 48 for details National Public Lands Day Big Bend National Park www.publiclandsday.org 2014 Date: Sept. 27 See p. 19 for details Permian Basin Fair Ector County Coliseum Odessa www.permianbasinfair.com 2014 Dates: Sept. 5–13 Permian Basin Intertribal Powwow Odessa College Sports Center Odessa www.odessacvb.net 2014 Dates: Sept. 26–27 Septemberfest Museum of the Southwest Midland www.museumsw.org First weekend after Labor Day 2014 Dates: Sept. 5–7 West Fest Post Park Marathon www.marathontexas.com/ 2014 Dates: Sept. 20–21 See p. 46 for details Wild West ChilE Fest Hudspeth County Fairgrounds Dell City www.wildwestchilefest.com Dates 2014: TBA OCTOBER 2014 Chinati Weekend Chinati Marfa www.chinati.org 2014 Dates: TBA See p. 48 for details 12 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM Dude of the Dead Festival is held in Presidio in October. CAF Airsho CAF Headquarters Midland International Airport www.airsho.org 2014 Dates: Oct. 11–12 Dude of the Dead Music Festival Presidio Drag Race Track Presidio www.dudeofthedead.net 2014 Dates: Oct. 24–26 Marathon 2 Marathon Marathon, Fort Stockton www.marathon2marathon.net 2014 Date: Oct. 25 See p. 46 for details ride4trails Big Bend Resort & Adventures Study Butte www.ride4trails.com 2014 Dates: Oct. 17–18 Arts & Crafts Fair Fort Davis www.fortdavis.com/calendar. html 2014 Date: Nov. 29 Cowboy Social Ritchey Building Marathon www.marathontexas.com 2014 Dates: First Sunday in November See p. 46 for details Terlingua International Chili Championship Rancho CASI de los Chisos www.chili.org www.casichili.net 2014 Date: Nov. 1 (Main Event) Trans-Pecos Big Buck Tournament Van Horn Convention Center & Visitors Bureau Van Horn www.transpecosbigbuck.com 2014 Date: TBA NOVEMBER 2014 Artwalk Multiple venues Alpine www.artwalkalpine.com 2014 Dates: Nov. 21–22 See p. 27 for details Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx FROM TOP: STEWART RAMSER, STEWART RAMSER JULY 2014 DECEMBER 2014 MARCH 2015 Fiesta de Noche Buena Presidio Arts Festival Main Street Marathon www.marathontexas.com 2014 Dates : December 6 See p. 46 for details Multiple venues Presidio www.presidiotx.us/arts 2015 Dates: TBA Frontier Christmas Franklin Mountains Poppies Celebration Memorial Square & Nature Conservancy Fort Davis www.fortdavis.com 2014 Dates: Dec. 13 Museum of Archaeology El Paso www.franklinmountains. blogspot.com 2015 Dates: TBA Hyundai Sun Bowl Sun Bowl Stadium APRIL 2015 El Paso www.sunbowl.org 2014 Date: Dec. 27 Pecan Dessert Contest/ Lighted Christmas parade Hotel El Capitan Van Horn (432) 283-2050 2014 Date: TBA Hammerfest A TXRA sanctioned bike race through the picturesque Davis Mountains. www.fortdavis.com 2015 Dates: TBA The Texas Cowboy Poetry Gathering is held on the campus of Sul Ross State University in Alpine in late February. Crude Fest Star of Texas Ranch Between Midland and Odessa www.thecrudefest.com 2015 Dates: TBA Cinemarfa Multiple venues Marfa www.cinemarfa.org 2015 Dates: TBA Fiesta West Texas Ector County Coliseum Odessa www.myfiestawesttexas.com 2015 Dates: May 1–3 Cinco de Mayo Amatuer Boxing Tournament Kelly Outdoor Theatre Fort Davis www.fortdavis.com 2015 Dates: TBA FROM TOP: STEWART RAMSER, COURTESY FORT STOCKTON CVB The Big Bend Open Road Race attracts car lovers from all over. JANUARY 2015 El Paso Puzzler Endurance Weekend El Paso http://puzzlerendurance. wordpress.com 2015 Dates: TBA Sandhills STOCK SHOW AND RODEO Ector County Coliseum www.sandhillsssr.com 2015 Dates: Jan. 2–10 FEBRUARY 2015 El Paso Marathon Trappings of Texas Museum of the Big Bend on Sul Ross State University campus Alpine www.sulross.edu/museum 2015 Dates: April 17–18 (opening) Exhibit runs through April Big Bend Open Road Race Fort Stockton, Sanderson www.bborr.com 2015 Dates: April 22–25 See p. 39 for details Terlingua green scene Community garden Terlingua www..terlinguagreenscene.com 2015 Date: TBA First Thanksgiving El Paso www.elpasomarathon.org 2015 Date: Feb. 22 San Elizario Plaza San Elizario www.visitelpaso.com 2015 Date: TBA Midessa Boat, RV, Sport & Gun Show Hueco Rock Rodeo Ector County Coliseum Odessa www.midessaboatshow.net 2015 Dates: Feb. 6–8 Texas Cowboy Poetry Gathering Sul Ross State University Alpine www.texascowboypoetry.com 2015 Dates: Feb. 27–28 See p. 27 for details Hueco Tanks State Park El Paso www.huecorodeo.com 2015 Dates: TBA MAY 2015 Ballroom Weekend Ballroom Marfa Marfa www.ballroommarfa.org 2015 Dates: TBA See p. 48 for details Texas Thunder Music Festival Texas Thunder Music Festival North Chinaberry Avenue Gardendale www.texasthunderfest.com 2015 Dates: May 7–9 JUNE 2015 Marfa Film Festival Various Venues Marfa www.marfafilmfestival.com 2015 Dates: Late June or early July Mex-Tex Family Fiesta Centennial Plaza Midland www.midlandhcc.com 2015 Dates: TBA Summer Theatre Program Sul Ross State University Alpine www.sulross.edu/tobb 2015 Dates: TBA Frontier Days Downtown Van Horn (432) 283-2050 2015 Dates: TBA Alfresco! Fridays Arts Festival Plaza El Paso elpasolive.com/alfresco_fridays 2015 Dates: TBA MUSIC SERIES County Line Free Music Series County Line at the State Line BBQ El Paso www.countyline.com 2015 Dates: TBA Hot Summer Nights with Cool Music Noel Heritage Park Odessa www.mainstreetodessa.com 2015 Dates: TBA Xxxxxxxxxx Great Outdoors Expo The Midland Horseshoe Midland www.texaspecostrail.com/ events/great-outdoors-expo 2015 Dates: TBA Neon Desert Music Festival Cleveland Square Park El Paso www.neondesertmusicfestival.com 2015 Dates: TBA Padre’s Anniversary Party Padre’s Marfa www.padresmarfa.com 2015 Dates: Memorial Day weekend See p. 48 for details Xxxxxxxxxxxx West of the Pecos Rodeo Buck Jackson Arena Pecos www.pecosrodeo.com 2015 Dates: TBA Summer off the Patio Annie Riggs Museum Fort Stockton www.annieriggsmuseum.org 2015 Dates: TBA Cool Canyon Nights McKelligon Canyon Amphitheatre El Paso www.visitelpaso.com 2015 Dates: TBA For a complete listing of events in the region, visit www.texasmountaintrail.com. Events organizers, you can list your events free of charge on the Texas Mountain Trail website. Use the “Suggest an Event” function on the Partners dropdown menu at www.texasmountaintrail.com. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 13 BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK Presidio Parks National & State The largest state park in Texas, with over 300,000 acres of Chihuahuan Desert wilderness, the park embraces some of the most remote and rugged terrain in the Southwest. Mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians enjoy miles of trails that traverse “the other side of nowhere.” Presidio (432) 358-4444 (512) 389-8919 (reservations) www.tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch BARTON WARNOCK VISITOR CENTER Terlingua/Lajitas The Center serves as the eastern entrance to Big Bend Ranch State Park. Exhibits interpret 570 million years of geologic history and the five biological landscapes of the Chihuahuan Desert. It was named for famed botanist and 33-year Sul Ross State University professor Dr. Barton Warnock (1911–1998). Lajitas (432) 424-3327 www. tpwd.state.tx.us/bartonwarnock STEVE MCKINNEY/BIGDAWGIMAGES.NET DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK Fort Davis T HE STATE PARKS and State Historic Sites of the Big Bend and Texas Moun- tains region showcase a panorama of West Texas scenes. From gushing spring waters to lofty mile-high peaks, from the harsh grandeur of Chihuahuan Desert landscapes to museum-quality exhibits, Texas State Parks offer something for every taste. Here you will find safe, secure and wholesome environments for camping, picnicking, hiking, fishing, stargazing, hunting, rock climbing, cycling, boating, floating, birding, swimming, horseback riding, interpretive programming or peace and quiet. Please stop in for a visit. You’ll be glad you did! Davis Mountains State Park, 2,708.9 acres in size, is located in Jeff Davis County, four miles northwest of Fort Davis, approximately halfway between Guadalupe Mountains National Park and Big Bend National Park. The original portion of the park was deeded to the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department by a local family. Original improvements were made by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1933; the park has been open to the public since the late 1930s, and formal campground facilities were added in 1967. CONTINUED ON PAGE 16 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 15 declared a National Historic Site, and a vast restoration/preservation program was initiated by the National Park Service. Fort Davis (432) 426-3337 www. tpwd.state.tx.us/state-parks/davismountains BALMORHEA STATE PARK Toyahvale At 77,053 square feet, San Solomon Spring is the focal point of Balmorhea State Park. Twenty-two to 28 million gallons of crystalline water flow from the spring each day. Visitors to Balmorhea State Park enjoy swims in the Civilian Conservation Corps-constructed impoundment and, if staying overnight, may choose to relax in one of the historic rooms at San Solomon Courts. Toyahvale (432) 375-2370 (512) 389-8900 (reservations) www.tpwd.state.tx.us/balmorhea 16 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM FORT LEATON STATE HISTORIC SITE Presidio Fort Leaton is day-use only and offers picnicking areas, tours through newly restored and furnished rooms, plus exhibits on the region’s history: from 15th-century conquistadors to Ben Leaton’s 19th-century trading post to the present. The fort also serves as the western entrance for Big Bend Ranch State Park. Four miles east of Presidio on F.M. 170 (432) 229-3613 www.tpwd.state.tx.us/fortleatonw TEXAS STATE PARK PASS The Texas State Parks Pass is an annual pass that offers many special benefits to members. As a member, you and your guests enjoy unlimited visits to Texas State Parks, State Natural Areas and State Historic Sites without paying the daily entrance fees. The cost is $70 for a one-card membership. Learn more at: www.tpwd.state.tx.us/spdest/parkinfo/passes/ VISIT: WWW.TPWD.STATE.TX.US/ STATE-PARKS/ TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE OTHER AREA PARKS AND PARKS ACROSS THE STATE OF TEXAS. FROM LEFT: COURTESY DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK, COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION The Davis Mountains, the most extensive mountain range in Texas, were formed by volcanic activity during the Tertiary geologic period, which began around 65 million years ago. These mountains were named after Jefferson Davis, U.S. secretary of war and later president of the Confederacy, who ordered the construction of the Fort Davis army post. Few Americans had seen the Davis Mountains prior to 1846. After the war with Mexico, a wave of gold seekers, settlers and traders came through the area and needed the protection of a military post - Fort Davis. Fort Davis was active from 1854 until 1891, except for certain periods during the Civil War. In 1961, the historic fort ruins were ENTRANCE FEES Vehicle: $20 for a 7-day pass good at any park entrance. Individual: $10 for a 7-day pass. 15 years and younger are free of charge. Annual Pass: $40 – Allows unlimited entry for one year from month of purchase. CAMPGROUND FEES The nightly fee for camping in one of the developed front-country campgrounds is $14. Individual back-country campsites require a $10 permit, which can only be acquired at one of the park’s visitor centers in person. Special rates apply to commercial and non-commercial groups, as well as interagency officials, seniors and the permanently disabled. Inquire at the ranger station or call (432) 477-2251. BIG BEND STEVE MCKINNEY/BIGDAWGIMAGES.NET Encompassing more than 800,000 acres of mountain cliffs, desert expanses and towering river canyons, Big Bend National Park is the king of Texas’ national public areas. M ANY FEATURES SET Big Bend apart from its national park brethren, including the fact that it is the only one to contain an entire mountain range – the Chisos – within its borders. Dedicated in 1944, the park is nestled in the bend of the Rio Grande River along the Texas-Mexico border where outstanding examples of Chihuahan Desert topography and ecology beckon nature enthusiasts from around the world. FUN FACT In 1964, Apollo astronauts came to Big Bend to study volcanic geology so that they could identify the geologic structures and processes that they might see on the moon. p National Park BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 17 A land of contrasts, Big Bend contains geological marvels, historic and prehistoric treasures and an amazing diversity of plant and animal life across its dramatic range of elevations. From its lowest point of 1,850 feet in Rio Grande Village to Emory Peak at 7,825 feet, the park presents impressive changes in climate, with temperatures in the desert routinely 10 to 20 degrees warmer than in the mountains. Desert opportunities abound. Numerous trails — from short and very well developed to long, rugged and remote — offer exceptional views. Back-country roads are available with private back-country camping sites available for both drive-in and backpacking options with a permit. Historic sites and ruins are numerous. Opportunities for solitude are many. CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE STEVE MCKINNEY/BIGDAWGIMAGES.NET The Chisos Mountains are high-elevation hiking, with trails for all skill levels. The famed South Rim has both a dramatic drop-off and an unobstructed view to the horizon line on a clear day. Boot Canyon contains the largest trees in the park and some of the largest of their species in the country. Emory Peak Trail has just undergone a complete reroute and has dramatic new views of both the south and north sides of the mountain. Birding is excellent in the mountains especially in the spring and fall. Spring sees the arrival of the Colima Warbler, a bird found only in the Chisos Mountains in the United States. Campers in the Chisos Basin will enjoy development boosts, including a newly rehabbed campground with much improved facilities and new, night sky-friendly lighting. Also, a newly re- habbed porch at the lodge serving outdoor meals is ready to serve day visitors and campers alike. With over 150 miles of back-country dirt roads and 200 miles of trails, walking, hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding are all popular options for exploring the park. Some of the more popular hikes include the Window View Trail in the Chisos Basin, which is wheelchair accessible and perfect for a mountain sunset; Rio Grande Village Nature Trail, which offers some of the best birding in the region; and the Chihuahan Desert Nature Trail at Dugout Wells, featuring native plant life identified along this half-mile path. The 118 miles of the Rio Grande that border the park wind through the Santa Elena, Boquillas and Mariscal Canyons. A river trip by raft or kayak is an unforgettable way to encounter the remote wilderness of Big Bend. Leisurely half-day floats to multi-day camping trips are available. Santa Elena is the most popular outfitter trip with dramatic 1,500-foot canyon walls. Boquillas is a two-night/three-day trip on average but great for families with its Class II or less rapids at average water levels and many side hiking opportunities. There are three developed campgrounds in the park: Chisos Basin Campground, Rio Grande Village Campground and Cottonwood Campground, all with water, restrooms and some with primitive shelters. There is also an RV Park at Rio Grande Village, the only location in the park with full hookups. Public showers and laundry facilities are available at the Rio Grande Village Store. Most of the campsites operate on a first come/first served basis and fill up quickly in March, April and during the holiday season. 18 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM BOQUILLAS, MEXICO The Boquillas Border Crossing has been re-opened after being closed for over ten years. This “pedestrian only” crossing between the United States and Mexico adds a new layer of fun and adventure to a Big Bend National Park visit. The crossing offers a unique opportunity to ride across the river in a row boat, or, if the water is low enough, wade across the Rio Grande (Check with officials for river conditions)! Current posted hours to re-enter the US are 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday (bring your passport). Learn more at www.discoverboquillas.com. celebration of our country’s public lands. Held the last weekend of September, the event brings thousands of people to parks across the country. Friends of Big Bend National Park will be hosting a special weekend of volunteerism and fun on Sept. 25. There will be volunteer opportunities, special ranger talks and social events to mark this special occasion. Check website for details. www.bigbendfriends.org “GRINGO HONEYMOON”: Boquillas is the Mexican town which inspired the famous Robert Earl Keen song. You can visit Boquillas via Big Bend National Park . PLAN YOUR TRIP A limited number of sites in Rio Grande Village and Chisos Basin allow advance reservations from Nov. 15–Apr. 15. Call 877-444-6777 or reserve online at www.reserveusa.com. Visit www.nps.gov/ bibe or call 432.477.2251 for more information. For a full list of Big Bend area activities, go to www.visitbigbend.com, the most complete reference source for all things Greater Big Bend and Brewster County. The mobile tag at the bottom of this page will also take you there. EVENTS NATIONAL PUBLIC LANDS DAY WEEKEND OF SEPTEMBER 28, 2013 STEWART RAMSER National Public Lands Day is a nationwide BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 19 Established on Sept. 30, 1972, GMNP is part of the Guadalupe Mountains range, which stretches from Carlsbad, N.M., to the salt flats and gypsum dunes just east of Dell City. Those gypsum dunes are the second largest in North America, after those of White Sands National Monument. Guadalupe Peak, and the surrounding Guadalupe Mountains, is part of an ancient marine fossil reef that was under the vast Delaware inland sea 260-270 million years ago. It is regarded as one of the world’s best examples of Middle Permian geology, attracting geologists from around the world. In addition to the Guadalupe Mountains, the 400-mile, horseshoe-shaped El Capitán Reef is now exposed in the Glass Mountains, near Alpine, as well as the Apache Mountains. In the Pine Springs Visitor Center (5,013 feet in elevation), educational videos and exhibits shed light on the geologic history of the park. Other exhibits showcase the abundant and diverse plant life and wildlife. Visitors may join a park ranger for an interpretive talk or walk on one the park’s trails. Discover the cultural history of the park at one of the heritage sites, such as the recently restored Frijole Ranch Schoolhouse, Williams Ranch, Pratt Cabin, remnants of Buffalo Soldier encampments or the Pinery Butterfield Overland Stage station. Explore the natural beauty and grandeur along the hiking trails, taking in views of everything from harsh desert landscapes to lush streamside woodlands, rich in oaks and maples. Perhaps the most popular attraction is the brilliant fall display of red, orange and yellow Bigtooth Maples in McKittrick Canyon, which peaks in late October. Families with children will find Junior Ranger, Senior Ranger and Junior Paleontologist programs chock full of age-appropriate activities. The park website provides a schedule of park activities and updates on fall color showings to aid travelers in planning their visits. www.nps.gov/gumo/. Guadalupe Mountains National Park .... could easily be described as one of America’s best-kept secrets. L of Van Horn on the Texas-New Mexico border, the 86,416 acres of Guadalupe Mountains National Park (GMNP) represent some of the most varied and beautiful hiking trails in all of Texas. With elevations in the park ranging from 3,689 feet at the gypsum dunes to the west of the Guadalupe Mountains, to the highest peak in Texas, Guadalupe Peak, at 8,749 feet, visitors are treated to a tremendous diversity of native plants and animals. With 46,850 acres of designated wilderness, GMNP preserves the largest wilderness area in the state of Texas. OCATED NORTH 22 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM COURTESY GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK EXPLORE THE GUADALUPES A hiker’s paradise, GMNP boasts more than 80 miles of trails, meandering through woodland canyons and lush riparian springs, as well as those zigzagging up steep switchbacks through the park’s rugged wilderness to Guadalupe Peak, Bush Mountain, The Bowl, Bear Canyon, Pine Top, McKittrick Ridge, Shumard Canyon, Hunter Peak, Dog Canyon and the distinctive El Capitán (which, at 8,085 feet above sea level, is an imposing sentinel at the west end of the Guadalupes). There are two short, easy hikes — the 0.4-mile Manzanita Spring Trail or the Pinery Trail (0.67 miles) — both of which are paved and wheelchair accessible. Moderate trails, such as McKittrick Canyon (4.8-6.8 miles, depending on the route), are available, as well as strenuous trails, such as the Guadalupe Peak Trail (8.4 miles) or The Bowl (9.3 miles). These trails require several hours and ample supplies. Hikers can take part in the free Peak Fitness Challenge by taking to the trails, www. geobetty.com/peak. Sixty percent of the park’s trails are available for horseback riding, though visitors must bring their own stock. Either by foot or horse, the park is a place to discover fossils and explore geologic and human history, observe native wildlife, view colorful wildflowers, capture great photos, create paintings or simply gaze into the wondrous, star-filled night sky. better protection from raids and provide better access to water. Hikers in McKittrick Canyon may visit Pratt Cabin. Park visitors with a 4x4 vehicle and lust for adventure can visit the historic Williams Ranch, one of the earliest park homesteads with a well-documented, albeit colorful, history. Before traveling that way, stop by the Pine Springs Visitor Center to check out a gate key and be For more information about Guadalupe Mountains National Park, visit www.nps.gov/gumo/ or call 915-828-3251 ext. 2124 for updated information. FEES AND PASSES COURTESY GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK EXPERIENCE WEST TEXAS HISTORY Discover the park’s Native American, cavalry (including the Buffalo Soldiers) and pioneer ranching history at one of the wellpreserved historic sites. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Frijole Ranch Cultural Museum features the homes and outbuildings of various Anglo settlers, including the Smith family who operated their small truck farm and orchard from 1906 to 1942. The Pinery is one of the best-preserved and highest staging outposts on the Butterfield-Overland Route, which ran from St. Louis to San Francisco from 1858 until the outbreak of the Civil War. The Pinery station ceased operations in August 1859, when the route was shifted southward to give it dashboard. Before you venture into the back country or before you leave to go back home, make sure to visit the GMNP bookstore in the Pine Springs Visitor Center to purchase a variety of books about the park, maps or postcards. The park’s non-profit cooperating association partner, the Carlsbad Caverns Guadalupe Mountains Association, supports programs at the park from revenues at the bookstore. If you would like to spend more time helping the park directly, inquire about the park’s Volunteers In Parks (VIP) program. aware that the drive, though only a little over seven miles, takes about an hour. Guadalupe Mountains National Park has two front-country campgrounds, Pine Springs and Dog Canyon, a group campground and group picnic area at Frijole Ranch and 10 back-country campgrounds spread throughout the park. Obtain back-country camping permits at the Pine Springs Visitors Center daily between 8 a.m. and 4:15 p.m. Entrance fees can be paid at any of the trail heads. Simply fill out the fee envelope and deposit at any trail head collection safe (the “iron ranger”). Display your detachable stub on your vehicle Guadalupe Mountains National Park annual passes are $20 for each immediate family. Seven-day permits are available at a rate of $5 per adult. Children under age 16 are free. Camping permits are $8 per site. Campers should pay cash at the self-registration board near the restroom or pay by credit card at the Pine Springs Visitors Center. America the Beautiful Annual Passes may be purchased for $80 and are good for entry, as well as other services and discounts at federal public lands. Lifetime America the Beautiful Senior Passes (for U.S. Citizens or Permanent Residents aged 62 or older) may be purchased for $10 and lifetime America the Beautiful Access Passes may be obtained, free of charge, by U.S. Citizens and Permanent Residents who have qualifying permanent disabilities. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 23 Nowadays, the high desert country, mountain ranges and access to the Rio Grande are only a few • VAN HORN y of the natural wonders that make Alpine Alpine a popular destination. SituBIG BEND ated within the great Chihuahuan Desert between Big Bend National Park and the Davis Mountains, The unique geographic location, nestled Alpine, with its tree-lined streets between three mountain ranges, gives Alpine one and university, is at the center of of the most agreeable climates in Texas: warm, the greater Big Bend region. As such, it serves as the transsunny winter days and cool summer nights. portation and service hub for far West Texas. In addition to the general aviation airport, AlpineCasparis Municipal Airport, there is an Amtrak station and access to the area via Greyhound bus lines, delivering visitors to all Alpine has to offer. The Museum of the Big Bend at Sul FUN FACT Ross is a favorite stop. For more than 70 years You may know that Alpine was the museum has colcalled Murlected and exhibited phyville before artifacts of the region, the name changed showcasing 11,000 officially in 1888. But did you know years of human history that prior to that and culture. Kids will the town was briefly enjoy seeing the large called Osborne? pterosaur reproduction and meeting “Big Ben,” a taxidermic, native black bear. The museum came to have him after he was struck by a car just a couple years ago. He now serves as an important teaching tool to the kids of the greater Big Bend area. No matter what brings you here, Alpine is a great staging place for any far West Texas adventure. There are ample lodging and dining opportunities. See cowboys competing at rodeo events, watch professional baseball in an historic ballpark and see summer theater productions under a roof of stars. HE AREA THAT would one At the time Murphyville became The Texas Cowboy Poetry Gatherday be Alpine had been a Alpine, there were already a dozen ing, Trappings of Texas, Big Bend campsite for cattlemen until houses, three saloons, a hotel, roomBalloon Bash, Artwalk, Viva Big a town of tents was created, ing house, a livery stable, a butcher shop Bend and Big Bend Ranch Rodeo consisting of railroad work- and a drugstore, which also housed the are just six of the most popular annual events. ers and their families. They post office. Alpine grew very slowly until But, perhaps, what will keep called their tiny settlement Sul Ross Normal College (now Sul Ross you coming back is the nearly idylMurphyville, and it re- State University) was opened in 1920. lic climate. At 4,600 feet and permained as such for five years The opening of Big Bend National Park fectly situated between the Davis, until a petition by townspeople rendered in the 1940s further spurred the growth Glass and Del Norte Mountains, a name change. of the town. you’ll be hard-pressed to find more moderate, year-round temperatures in all of Texas. GUADALUPE MTS. • ODESSA p ADAM HOLMES/VISITALPINETX.COM -A L P I N E - T BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 25 Attractions A HISTORIC WALKING AND WINDSHIELD TOUR Take a leisurely stroll or drive around Alpine’s downtown for a glimpse of architectural history. A copy of the walking tour guide and map is available at the Alpine Visitors Center located at 106 N. Third St. www.alpinetexas.com B SUL ROSS STATE UNIVERSITY Established in 1920, the university’s picturesque campus overlooks Alpine and the surrounding valley. With years of history and its uniquely beautiful setting, the campus of Sul Ross is a delightful place to wander around. Many of the buildings are now designated as historic. Sul Ross is a member of the Texas State University System. With an average undergraduate class size of just 20 students, it’s the perfect setting for pursuing an associate, bachelor’s or master’s degree in Liberal Arts, Science, Fine Arts or any number of Professional Studies programs, such as Business Administration or Criminal Law. www.sulross.edu FROM TOP: COURTESY VISITALPINETX.COM, DARREN McGUIRE/VISITALPINETX.COM, KENNETH TOSO/VISITALPINETX.COM C D KOKERNOT FIELD For baseball enthusiasts, Kokernot Field will take your breath away. Styled after the famous Wrigley Field, this baseball diamond was built for the Alpine Cowboys, a semi-pro team of the mid-20th century. The landmark stadium is now home to a recent professional incarnation of the team, also called the Alpine Cowboys. ALPINE’S MURALS The breezeway alongside the Reata Restaurant depicts scenes from the movie GIANT – the restaurant’s name pays homage to the famous film. Two blocks south, at Kiowa Gallery, see two murals by the famous Stylle Read, displaying images of West Texas and Alpine. Around the corner, the local movie theater is decorated with images of famous movie characters. © Jim Bones MUSEUM OF THE BIG BEND Located on the Sul Ross campus, the museum’s permanent exhibits explore the natural and human history of the region, honoring the contributions of Native Americans, as well as Spanish, Mexican and Anglo-American settlers. Every February through April, the museum plays host to the Trappings of Texas exhibition. (See the website for exact dates.) TuesdaySaturday, 9 a.m. –5 p.m., Sunday, 1–5 p.m. www.sulross.edu/museum ALPINE COUNTRY CLUB GOLF COURSE Next to Kokernot Park, this nine-hole course is popular with visitors and residents alike. Cart rental and concessions are available. PERFORMING ARTS AND LIVE ENTERTAINMENT Alpine offers a variety of stage performances and live entertainment throughout the year. The Theatre of the Big Bend features outdoor summer productions under the stars and against the backdrop of West Texas at Kokernot Park. And around town each week, live music events from open-mic nights to touring shows keep the nights lively. www.sulross.edu/tobbEvents E COUNTY COURTHOUSE HALL OF HISTORY Take a walk through the great hall in the Brewster County Courthouse and step back through the years. On display are photographs from early Alpine and the surrounding area. F HISTORIC MURPHY STREET Murphy Street, one block south of the railroad tracks, has gone through a revitalization. Visit the shops and restaurants and explore the deep history of Alpine. Events ARTWALK Alpine’s biggest annual gathering spans two days in November to showcase a variety of art exhibitions in many local businesses, all against a backdrop of festivities and live outdoor music through the evenings. (432) 837-3067 www.artwalkalpine.com BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 27 ALPINE COWBOYS BASEBALL With roots going back to the 1940s, the Alpine Cowboys are the community’s professional baseball team in the Pecos League. Home games held at Kokernot Field throughout the spring and summer are a refreshing event, especially set against the backdrop of Alpine’s surrounding mountains. BIG BEND BALLOON BASH Each morning of Labor Day weekend, hot air balloons paint the skies over Alpine. Visitors to the launch site enjoy balloon, helicopter and powered parachute rides. www.bigbendballoonbash.com BIG BEND RANCH RODEO The rugged, gritty workings of ranch life take center stage at this rodeo. Ranchers from all over the state come to test their mettle in events evoking real cowboy skills, from rounding up livestock to a fierce chuck wagon cookoff. (432) 364-2696 www.bigbendranchrodeo.com CINCO DE MAYO A three-day weekend filled with food, crafts, dancing, a parade, a car show, music, entertainment, enchilada supper, folkloric dancers and a Gran Mercado. TEXAS COWBOY POETRY GATHERING The Texas Cowboy Poetry Gathering is a two-day event celebrating the oral tradition of the working cowboy in poetry, stories, and music. Enjoy more than 50 performers in the classrooms and on the stages of Sul Ross State University in Alpine, Texas. TRAPPINGS OF TEXAS Trappings of Texas showcases the best of Western art and custom cowboy gear. Held every February at the Museum of the Big Bend on the campus of Sul Ross State University, visitors and interested buyers can meet and visit with the artists and gear makers who have works for sale at the Museum and at the public auction fundraiser. Trappings kicks off the third weekend of April 2015. www.sulross.edu/museum BIG BEND REGIONAL MEDICAL CENTER 2600 N. Highway 118 (432) 837-3447 www.bigbendhealthcare.com Big Bend Regional Medical Center (BBRMC) is a 25 bed, joint commission accredited acute care facility. Big Bend Regional has a Level 4 Trauma designated Emergency Department and offers 24 hour emergency care, ICU, medical/surgical rooms, OB care, imaging, pharmacy, laboratory, and surgical services. KIOWA GALLERY 105 E. Holland Ave. (432) 837-3067 Kiowa Gallery is celebrating 20 years of serving the Big Bend with a premier collection of original paintings, pottery, jewelry and one-of-a-kind specialty gifts. STABLE PERFORMANCE CARS 511 W. Holland Ave. (432) 837-9789 www.thestablealpine.com At Stable Performance Cars, the performance- and classic-car enthusiast has a comfortable place to visit and talk cars in a relaxed atmosphere. IVEY’S EMPORIUM 109 W. Holland Ave. (432) 837-7474, www.iveysemporium.com Located in downtown Alpine, Ivey’s Emporium is a popular store offering everything from gifts, decorative accessories and tasteful souvenirs of the Big Bend region. TALLENT ROOFING 110 N. 6th St. (432) 837-7009, www.tallentroofing.com Tallent provides residential and commercial roofing services and is family owned and operated since 1987. Real Estate VIVA BIG BEND MOUNTAIN VIEW PROPERTIES Viva Big Bend is an annual music festival held in far West Texas. Taking place the last weekend of July in Alpine, Fort Davis, Marfa and Marathon, VBB showcases more than 50 bands in 10 venues. Other events happening during VBB include an art show, kids’ activities and functions geared toward musicians/music-industry reps. More details can be found at www.vivabigbend.com. 2100 W. Hwy 90 (432) 837-5518 mtnviewproperties.com Mountain View Properties specializes in the marketing and sale of homes in West Texas, as well as commercial and ranch properties. We also serve Presidio, Jeff Davis and Culberson Counties. As your agent and premier real estate company of choice, we will be there to assist you from beginning to end! We are your relocation specialist! Shopping & Services ALPINE AUTO RENTAL 2501 E. Highway 90 (432) 837-3463 www.alpineautorental.com All the amenities of a big city car rental agency, right here in Alpine. U-HAUL trailers and trucks available. 28 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 1 2 SIERRA LA RANA 2 miles south of Alpine off Hwy. 118 (866) 757-2382 www.sierralarana.com Gated Ranch Community. Own your own land! Now offering large tracts from 10 to 150 acres in a recognized international dark sky community. D RS MA W VE EA N JU VE XA RY ND HE W W SO ING C BU R CK D NCO D ST N BIR E ALK NW R ST N 1S D ST T ST L D R RY T T TH S TH S S 11 S 13 T TH S T TH S S 15 S 14 VE H WA VE I WA VE J WA 2 VE I WA 1 mile Food & Drink PLAINE 215 E. Holland Ave. (432) 837-5157, www.tumbleweedlaundry.com Plaine is a full-service coffee shop serving Big Bend Coffee Roasters any way you take it. We also serve Blue Bell ice cream and all-fruit smoothies. Also, try out our brand new laundromat next door. 3 REATA RESTAURANT 203 N. 5th Street (432) 837-9232 www.reata.net The world-famous Reata Restaurant has been serving legendary Texas cuisine since 1995 in Alpine. From chicken fried steak to calf fries, pepper crusted tenderloin or a cowboy rib eye, Reata is a true West Texas dining experience not to miss. 6 Lodging 209 W. Holland Ave. (800) 535-8040 | (432) 837-2800 www.thehollandhoteltexas.com Newly renovated historic downtown hotel. Trost & Trost architecture. 4 HAMPTON INN 2607 W. Hwy. 90 (432) 837-7344 www.alpine.hamptoninn.com Indoor pool/spa, fitness room. 5 HOLLAND HOTEL 7 THE MAVERICK INN 1200 E. Holland Ave. (432) 837-0628 www.themaverickinn.com A roadhouse for wanderers. HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS & SUITES 2004 E. Hwy. 90 (432) 837-9597 www.holidayinnexpress.com Indoor pool, fitness room. 211 E. Holland Ave. (432) 837-9770 www.saddleclubalpine.com The Saddle Club features a cozy environment with stellar food and drinks. Relax inside and outside on the patio, or book our private space upstairs for your 118 special occasion. 17 ES ST E IS M FOOT CO BLACK PL ST JPE RD PL M PR O PY ESPY TONY COLVIN/VISITALPINETX.COM SADDLE CLUB COM BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 29 ST ST STAIN ST TE ME CE IN ST I E AVE ON ST KEY ST S LAC S HARM ST ISON ST S HARR S BIRD KRELL 118 H S CHA VE EGO A E AVE S COC T Baines Park ST KLY S D ST S 2N AVE F E GALL ELPS S BER S PH T ST GO LLE E GA S 1S EF E AV D ST H ST H ST S 5T S 6T H ST S 7T H ST S 4T S 3R F E AVE Jackson Field SON FERGU E D AV LAN E HO OLD 90 S RAG H ST EM 67 7 67 E Y URPH 5 B E S AV ES kS mtra AVE AVE N HA ST N 2N D ST H ST N 6T AL WG N 3R N 4T H ST H ST H ST O LEG Sul Ross State University OS UL R n tatio A C A A E AVE PHY MUR VE RT A CKH E LO E ENU E AV 67 S 9T T TH S S 10 T TH S S 12 VE F WA N 5T W NUE AVE S 8T W 3 E AVE 6 E D AV EB H ST AN ELL CKR N CO VE KA 118 N 7T H ST ST T LL S RRE S DU VE H WA AVE T TH S S 16 N ST WSO S DA T ST LBER S HA EGO ALL WG H ST T E Y AV RPH VE F WA N 9T T T TH S ST OLL WH U WM T HT FIG ENU E AV N 8T T TH S N 11 TH S N 10 TH S N 12 N 13 4TH T 7TH HS N1 6T N1 N1 ST O UL R WS 90 ST T DR AVE 67 VE SS A RD N3 T HS T OL OSS UL R WS OSS UL R WS 67 90 VE E WA 67 ST HS 1T HS HO SC GE 67 T RY S R AN NO 90 BR EB VE NA OW BR LE W OW UE A EN E AV UE A VE NA 223 T NS S TIO E NA S ST ION T E NA VE EA VEN WA HER 4 TH N4 T N1 4T W E AV D AL UV W NC 03 VE SA VE EA WN RO EB DD MI ST W 17 VE SA GL EA U VEN WA S PA D AL UV E AV AS EP W N1 T CH EA E GL EA IO LR DE E AV RIO ST ST W 118 E AV N SO ER ND SA T ST C STO ST TH T HS 0T W TH TH N7 S TH N1 ST HS EL WD T NP EQ T DS RD UN IL R UA T S RY S TH T HS H 3T 5T 6T HS CIR ER CH W RD 7T EE TR R FO N1 H AC IS AV TD W N1 Shipman Park PE W WM N9 2T N1 N1 W RT FO VIS DA ON KT E AV N1 EW PIN AL VD BL FA AR E AV RFA MA N8 W E AV VIS DA N5 RT FO 223 DIA CA AR N6 W Kokernot Park 118 VE NA AN W TE 8 1 A MAR EL PASO DOWNTOWN ARTS DISTRICT The district features unique shopping, a walking tour of historic downtown, the El Paso Museums of Art and History, public artworks and the beautifully restored Plaza Theatre. The district is also experiencing unprecedented growth, thanks to a multi-million dollar quality of life bond and private investments. New additions to the area include Southwest University Park, home of the newest Triple-A baseball team, the El Paso Chihuahuas; a TouchCity Digital/ Interactive history wall, the first in the U.S.; an enriching Hispanic Cultural Center; a new children’s museum; and a pedestrian pathway/wayfinding project that will connect the most popular downtown districts. y EL PASO GUADALUPE MTS. • VAN HORN BIG BEND HUECO TANKS STATE HISTORIC SITE World renowned for rock climbing, Hueco Tanks is also known for its many Native American rock paintings and unique geology. Pictograph tours are offered, and you can also hike, camp and picnic on the grounds. Call before visiting, (800) 792-1112, option 3. FRANKLIN MOUNTAINS STATE PARK Hike, bike or run the rugged terrain of this 37-square-mile state park that sits in the middle of the city. A With the largest urban state parks in the U.S., right in the heart of the city, you don’t have to go far to find real adventure. the sun rise over a picturesque mountain backdrop, a city brimming with adventure comes to life. El Paso curves around a still-wild terrain of mountains and foothills that promise, after a short climb or a cable-car ride on a Swiss-made gondola, a breathtaking panoramic view. Fresh-air excursions alone can give you plenty of reasons to get up and go. Add S YOU WATCH 32 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 315 days of sun to the equation and you can live a Hemingway novel in about a week — unless you’d rather use all that sunshine to relax by a pool. El Paso’s native friendliness, warm sunshine and untamed mountains will make your trip here the absolute opposite of a themed, fabricated experience. It’s for real explorers. Discover it for yourself. Real adventure is still alive in El Paso. WYLER AERIAL TRAMWAY The tramway offers a view of 7,000 square miles, two countries and three states from the 5,632-foot elevation at the southern edge of the Franklin Mountains. EL PASO MUSEUM OF ARCHAEOLOGY AT WILDERNESS PARK The El Paso Museum of Archaeology provides visitors with a glimpse into the preservation of archaeological and anthropological artifacts through research, exhibits, education, etc. The museum grounds include trails with more than 200 native plant varieties and outdoor exhibits. KEYSTONE HERITAGE PARK A 52-acre park located in El Paso’s Upper Valley serves as an archaeological site, archaic wetlands and a botanical garden. Over 193 species of birds have been spotted here, including 22 species considered rare by the Audubon Society. FROM LEFT: COURTESY EL PASO CVB; ANDY MANN El Paso BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 33 • ODESSA y Fort Davis • ALPINE BIG BEND FORT Davis Take a step back in time and travel to a place rich in history — a place where the old West meets modern amenities, and there’s not a single stop light! H Attractions Davis Mountains and surrounded by unspoiled vistas of the Chihuahuan Desert, the charming little town of Fort Davis feels far removed from the rest of the world. The town stretches just one mile with most of the family-owned businesses centered around the county courthouse and along the main street (Highway 118). It has the feel of a western frontier town offering a retreat to a simpler past and a chance to soak in the natural surrounding beauty, abundant wildlife and rich history of the area. COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION p GUADALUPE MTS. Even after the fort closed, the community of Fort Davis grew as a ranching center and by the early 1900s attracted wealthy vacationers from the Gulf Coast seeking the mild climate of the high desert during the summer months. The intriguing history of the area drew more tourists with FUN FACT the designation of the fort Every summer, as a national historic site in Fort Davis NHS 1961. Many of its buildings hosts a Junior have been restored, making Ranger Days program, specially it one of the best surviving designed for children examples of a frontier milivisiting the fort. The tary post in the Southwest. summer program Stargazers, birdwatchers, includes a historic cyclists and hikers have also baseball game. Learn more at the mobile sought out the “Highest tag to the left or by Town in Texas” for access to visiting the fort the McDonald Observatory and Davis Mountain State Park/Indian Lodge. IGH IN THE Fort Davis takes its name from the military post established there in 1854 along the San Antonio-El Paso Road. The fort was manned by companies of the 8th U.S. Infantry to protect emigrants, freighters and mail coaches from raids by Apache and Comanche Indians in the area. Starting in 1867, the fort was home to four companies of the 9th U.S. Calvary — African-American soldiers that became known as Buffalo Soldiers. Fort Davis soon became a major military installment, and the town grew right alongside it, boasting a dairy, lumber yard, bakery, furniture store, several hotels, a mercantile and saloons. A MCDONALD OBSERVATORY A world leader in astronomical research, McDonald Observatory atop Mts. Locke and Fowlkes benefits from some of the darkest night skies in the nation. The Frank N. Bash Visitor Center is the starting point for tours and hosts Star Parties on Tuesday, Friday and Saturday evenings. Interactive educational exhibits can be found at the visitor center along with a gift shop stocked with unique and educational keepsakes. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. with self-guided tours available until 5 p.m. Daytime programs are at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. www.mcdonaldobservatory.org B DAVIS MOUNTAINS STATE PARK & INDIAN LODGE Located four miles north of Fort Davis, this 2,700-acre park offers camping, hiking, picnicking and nature study. Four miles of hiking trails connect to Fort Davis National Historic Site, and two scenic overlooks provide the perfect spots for star gazing. Day and overnight equestrian use is offered. Within the park, the historic pueblo-style Indian Lodge, built in 1933 by the Civilian Conservation Corps, has a swimming pool, restaurant and gift shop. The park is open year-round, and full RV hookups are available. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 35 C FORT DAVIS NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE Fort Davis was one the most important posts in frontier defense in the late 1800s with its strategic location at the crossroads of the San Antonio-El Paso Road and the Chihuahuan Trail. www.nps.gov/foda/ D THE OVERLAND TRAIL MUSEUM On the historic San Antonio-El Paso Road, the museum has displays and photographs depicting early life on the western frontier and features a restored pioneer kitchen and early medical equipment. Open Tuesday, Friday and Saturday 1-5 p.m. E SCENIC LOOP DRIVE A 75-mile drive on the highest public highway in Texas starts in Fort Davis and winds past the Davis Mountain State Park, McDonald Observatory, Mount Livermore, Sawtooth Mountain and the Rock Pile. The route is also ideal for cycling with plenty of spots to rest and picnic including a large pine-shaded area with tables in Madera Canyon. F CHIHUAHUAN DESERT NATURE CENTER Home to the Chihuahuan Desert Research Institute, the center features 20 acres of botanical gardens and a greenhouse with a collection of more than 200 species of cacti. There are three miles of hiking trails and outdoor exhibits including the Chihuahuan Desert Mining Heritage exhibit. The visitor center is home to interpretive exhibits and a gift shop, and is surrounded by a Wildscape Demonstration Garden that attracts butterflies, hummingbirds and other wildlife. Located four miles south of Fort Davis on Highway118. Open Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.–5 p.m. www.cdri.org G HISTORIC JEFF DAVIS COUNTY COURTHOUSE Designed by the architectural firm of l. L. Thurman and Co. of Dallas, this building was erected in 1910-1911. 2011 marked the 100th anniversary of this concrete and stone Classical Revival edifice, featuring a massive portico, Doric columns, alternating horizontal bands of pink rusticated stone made of locally quarried materials and a Beaux Arts-style clock tower. Events THE “COOLEST” 4TH OF JULY Fort Davis provides a true slice of Americana in this annual small-town July 4 celebration dubbed the “coolest” in Texas thanks to the mountain temperatures and year-round dry climate. The community event — which draws visitors from all over — features a parade, an old-fashioned gun fight, a 5K run, an apple pie and empanada contest, a pet contest, an array of vendors and a dance under the stars. 36 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM TEXAS STAR PARTY Hosted by Texas Star Party, each year the Texas Star Party takes place at the Historic Prude Ranch and includes local tours, talks and evening programs. www.texasstarparty.org FORT DAVIS FRONTIER AND MULE DAYS Mules and donkeys steal the show during this fun family event with vendors, donkey races and a full mule show. Sept. 26-27, 2014. www.fortdavis.com CYCLEFEST Hosted by the Permian Basin Bicycle Association, Cyclefest has been based in Fort Davis for some 40 years. Cyclefest is a fun ride for anyone, held the third weekend in September. www.pbbatx.com FRONTIER CHRISTMAS WEEKEND Always the first full weekend of December, festivities include a Christmas tree lighting, a parade, visits with Santa and a Christmas tree hunt. www. fortdavis.com ARTS & CRAFTS FAIR For more than three decades the people at St. Joseph Catholic Church have hosted this communitywide arts & crafts far. Always held the Saturday of Thanksgiving weekend. Lodging HOTEL LIMPIA/BLUE MOUNTAIN BISTRO 101 Memorial Square (800) 662-5517 hotellimpia.com FORT DAVIS INN & R.V. PARK 2201 Texas 17 (800) 80-DAVIS fortdavisinn.com 1 THE STONE VILLAGE TOURIST CAMP 507 N. State Street (432) 426-3941 www.stonevillagetouristcamp.com Recently renovated ’30s-era motor court. Fourteen motel units complete with bath/shower, AC/Heat, 6 camp rooms, heated pool. Outdoor grill available. Natural food market and deli on property. Food & Drink 1 STONE VILLAGE MARKET DELI 507 N. State Street www.stonevillagetouristcamp.com 432-426-3941 Y PL 118 E COMMERCE ST FORT DAVIS DRUGSTORE Fort Davis National Historic Site 113 North State Street, in the heart of downtown Fort Davis; (432) 426-3118 www.fortdavisdrugstore.net DAKOTA ST 118 MESCALERO ST B BLACK FO 1250 N. State St. (432) 426-3141 hebertscaboose@yahoo.com A OT ST JPE RD HEBERT’S CABOOSE ICE CREAM SHOP COMPROMI SE ST 17 118 C Real Estate COACHWHI P TEXAS MOUNTAIN REALTY 1S TS 2N D H H 1 ST ST ST ALAMO AVE RD G O DR 118 17 GRANAD URQUHART SAN JUAN AVE CEMETERY EZ DR 1250 N. State St. (432) 426-3141 hebertsheirlooms@yahoo.com WOODWARD SGT GONZAL MADRONE ST HEBERT’S HEIRLOOMS & RESALE DESERT WILLOW COURT AVE 601 Cemetery Rd. (432) 242-5102 BENTLEY DR FORT DAVIS OUTFITTERS LN MILITARY DR 5T D 4T GRANT DR FRONT ST BUCKEYE ST Shopping AGAVE ST BLOYS AVE FO RT S T 3R RATTLESNAK E T ST PAISANO DR D 310 S. Front St. (432) 426-3941 www.texasmountainrealty.com LN CAVALRY LN F 1 mile Marathon MARATHON LANDFILL BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 37 Attractions GUADALUPE MTS. • ODESSA • VAN HORN A y Fort Stockton FORT STOCKTON VISITOR CENTER Located in the renovated Kansas City, Mexico and Orient Railroad Depot, the Visitor Center provides information on local and regional attractions. The surrounding grounds house interpretive displays on Comanche Springs, Buffalo Soldiers, Early Pioneers, Vaqueros and Comanche Indians. Also located at the Center is the operational Pecos County/ Fort Stockton Renewable Energy Park, featuring wind and solar power generation that supplies energy for operations at the Visitor Center. 1000 Railroad Avenue (432) 336-2264 www. historicfortstocktontx.com BIG BEND B MESA VINEYARDS WINE TASTING ROOM AT THE HISTORIC GREY MULE SALOON F Stockton ORT STOCKTON was established in March 1859 as Camp Stockton. The army withdrew from Texas during the Civil War and abandoned Fort Stockton in 1861. Confederate troops briefly occupied the site until they, too, withdrew in 1862. In July 1867, Fort Stockton was re-established by four Companies of the 9th U.S. Cavalry Regiment. The 9th was one of the new regiments organized after the Civil War staffed with African-American enlisted men known as Buffalo Soldiers. 38 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM The community was originally known as Saint Gall, but the locals changed the name to Fort Stockton in 1881. Fort Stockton was incorporated as a city in December of 1910 and elected its first mayor in 1911. Fort Stockton is the County Seat of Pecos County, the second-largest county in the state. Covering nearly 5,000 square miles, Pecos County is one of Texas’ largest energy producers combining renewable energy with fossil fuels. Tourism, agriculture, retail sales and the service industry are also important contributors to the local economy. HISTORIC FORT STOCKTON DRIVING TOUR Beginning at the Visitor Center, the self-guided driving tour of the Historic District features 17 locations with descriptive signage and period photographs. (432) 336-2264 C PAISANO PETE Paisano Pete, located in the center of town on the corner of Main and Dickinson, is inarguably one of the most recognizable roadside attractions in the Southwest. Fort Stockton’s unofficial mascot was erected in 1980 and declared the largest roadrunner in the world, at 11 feet tall and 22 feet long. “Pete” was the idea of Mayor Gene Cummings and has been an enduring symbol of the community since his arrival. He is one of the most photographed ”birds” in the world. COURTESY FORT STOCKTON CVB Fort The historic saloon offers a perfect setting to highlight the wines of Mesa Vineyard. The tasting room offers visitors a unique experience of enjoying an evening in an adobe structure where cowboys, pioneers and outlaws once drank and watched the construction of what is now Annie Riggs Memorial Museum. Open Wednesday through Sunday (1:30 p.m.-7 p.m.). (432) 336-WINE. Available for special events and group appointments. D OLD FORT CEMETERY LIVE AT ZERO STONE CONCERT SERIES In use from 1859 to 1912, grave markers are a testament to the hard and often violent life on the early frontier. Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Chamber of Commerce, this free six-session summer concert series is held at Zero Stone Park in Downtown Fort Stockton. Many types of music are celebrated including jazz, swing and hard rock. The concerts are held every other Friday beginning June 3 and ending Aug. 12. (432) 336-2264 E HISTORIC FORT STOCKTON This important Indian Wars Fort was active from 1867 to 1886. It was strategically placed at Comanche Springs to protect the San Antonio-to-El Paso mail, freight wagons, cattle drives and emigrants. Today Historic Fort Stockton consists of four of the original buildings and reconstructed barracks housing the museum and period displays. 301 East Third Street (432) 336-2400 Events Held annually on the Historic Fort Grounds the third weekend in October, Old Fort Days brings history to life with period re-enactors and demonstrations. Military units representing the periods of occupation of Fort Stockton are represented as are the civilian population that lived near the Historic Fort. Demonstrations of skills needed to survive during the early settlement of the Southwest are presented as well as military demonstrations of infantry, cavalry and artillery skills. (432) 336-2400 Fort Stockton is the starting point for this “most challenging open road race in the world” held the last Saturday in April along Highway 285 to Sanderson. This event draws hundreds to the area and offers excitement for all ages. Contact: (432) 336-2264 www.bborr.com F ANNIE RIGGS MEMORIAL MUSEUM Built in 1899, the museum is an excellent example of Territorial architecture. The Riggs family donated the building to the Fort Stockton Historical Society in 1956 for use as a museum of the town’s wild and colorful history with displays featuring area geology, archeology and pioneer life. 301 S. Main. (432) 336-2167 G OLD FORT DAYS BIG BEND OPEN ROAD RACE FORT STOCKTON WATER CARNIVAL The Fort Stockton Water Carnival tradition began back in 1936, when Comanche Springs flowed freely and Texas was celebrating its Centennial. The annual event occurs the third weekend in July and includes singing, dancing, water ballet performances and the crowning of Ms. Fort Stockton. Held at Comanche Springs Pool and Pavilion, the three-day event continues to be run by local volunteers. (432) 336-2264 Fort Stockton DESERT PINES MUNICIPAL GOLF COURSE This 18-hole course is home to Blaine McCallister, a leading PGA touring professional. Open Tuesday-Sunday. (432) 336-2050 SUMMER OFF THE PATIO CONCERT SERIES Sponsored by the Fort Stockton Historical Society, this free six-session summer concert series is held at the Annie Riggs Memorial Museum, off of the 18 back porch featuring historic period- and westernthemed music. The concerts are held every other Thursday, June 9 through Aug. 18. (432) 336-2167 H JAMES ROONEY MEMORIAL PARK Home to the historic Comanche Springs Pavilion and Swimming Pool built in 1938 over the Big Chief Spring, the pool is the site of Fort Stockton’s annual Water Carnival. 208 S. Hwy 285, Pool – 200 Spring Dr. (432) 336-2751 285 10 G W 21ST ST W PANTHER ST AV E IL RO AD RA W AV E 285 James Rooney Memorial Park H COMANCHE ST PA R KV IE W RD SON DER SAN Y HW BLUEBIRD ST CARDINAL ST PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY FORT STOCKTON CVB ATKINS ST F MILL ST S MAIN ST 385 E W SPRING ST W GONZALEZ ST GONZALEZ RD N GATLIN ST B S NELSON ST S YOUNG ST S JACKSON ST W EL PASO ST S VALENTINE ST W RYAN ST Pat Taylor Field N URIAS ST D S FRONT ST W JAMES ST S BUTZ ST RA W 3RD ST W DIVISION ST W GALLAGHER ST S RIO ST W E 5TH ST W 1ST ST W SHERER ST OA ILR E 7TH ST W 2ND ST S KANSAS ST S MISSOURI ST S COLPITTS ST S PECOS ST ROLLINS ST S RIO ST W GALLAGHER ST 285 W 4TH ST W CALLAGHAN ST 385 N FORT ST W 4TH ST W JAMES ST VE DA C 194 385 E 8TH ST E 6TH ST W 5TH ST W 3RD ST S SUMMIT ST S SAGE ST W JAMES ST E 9TH ST W 6TH ST W 4TH ST W 2ND ST E 10TH ST N SLATE ST N EVERTS ST N MCINTYRE ST S GREASEWOOD ST S SYCAMORE ST W CALLAGHAN ST W 7TH ST A N PARK ST W 6TH ST THOMSON ST ST W 7TH ST N VALENTINE ST W 8TH ST N BUTZ ST W 8TH ST N FRONT ST W 9TH ST DEES ST W 9TH ST N ALAMO ST E 13TH ST N ORIENT ST E 14TH ST W 13TH ST N GILLIS ST W DICKINSON BLVD N LODAL ST NET T DYKE ST N AR W 9TH ST PECAN ST N PINE ST N OAK ST W DICKINSON BLVD N ORIENT ST N ST GALL ST N WILLIAMS ST N ROONEY ST N WATER ST W HORNBECK BLVD 10 W 14TH ST W 12TH ST W 5TH ST 194 N MAIN ST N NELSON ST N JACKSON ST N TEXAS ST N OKLAHOMA ST N KANSAS ST N MISSOURI ST N COLPITTS ST N PECOS ST N RIO ST W 14TH ST W 16TH ST W 11TH ST W 9TH ST DYKE ST N YOUNG ST N MARSHALL ST W DICKINSON BLVD REDWOOD ST 10 W HORNBACK BLVD W 12TH ST ELM ST 67 W 18TH ST W 17TH ST 285 W 14TH ST E 19TH ST Fort Stockton High School ER AI LR OA D WESTWIND DR 285 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 39 Lodging GUADALUPE MTS. LAJITAS GOLF RESORT & SPA Under new ownership since 2007, the resort town, spa, equestrian center, RV Park and new golf course ensure that Lajitas flourishes with a variety of new shops, restaurants and activities. More information at www.lajitasgolfresort.com. • ODESSA • ALPINE y BIG BEND Lajitas Attractions BLACK JACK’S CROSSING GOLF COURSE This semi-private, Lanny Wadkinsdesigned 18-hole championship golf course captures the beauty and drama of the desert. The course winds through the mountains offering challenging golf for all skill levels. THE HUNT CLUB Located 40 miles from the resort, The Hunt Club is housed on 650 acres along the Rio Grande. Full-day and multi-day hunts are available for white-wing dove in the fall. LAJITAS BOARDWALK A community along the Rio Grande River named for the small flat rocks that blanket the area, born of ancient volcanoes and inland seas. T UCKED BETWEEN Big Bend National Park and Big Bend Ranch State Park, Lajitas has played host to a cast of infamous characters throughout history. Fossil bones of giant marine reptiles and large dinosaurs over 65 million years old have been discovered in the vicinity. The historic river crossing, also known as Paso Lajitas or San Carlos Ford, has been used for centuries. The Spanish explorer Antonio de Espejo crossed here in 1588. Lajitas Trading Post was built in 1899 to facilitate workers, goods and material coming from Mexico to the booming cinnabar mines in the area. By the early 20th century, Lajitas enjoyed a public school and a U.S. post office. A military outpost was established here to protect the strategic mining industry during the period of unrest caused by the Mexican Revolution of 19101920, when the name of Pancho Villa was either worshipped or feared on both sides of the Rio 42 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM Grande. In late 1916 and early 1917, General John J. “Black Jack” Pershing made an inspection of the area along with his aide, Lieutenant George Patton. There are cowboy stories along with miners’ tales of drink and peril in every crevice of the red rock buttes that encircle the area. Outfitters & Tours ANGELL EXPEDITIONS (432) 229-3713 or (305) 336-2787 www.angellexpeditions.com Full-service outfitter serving the greater Big Bend area. River rafting, canoeing, kayaking, jeep tours, hiking, mountain biking and camping. Single and multi-day trips available, tailored to your interests and schedules. Highest ranking on TripAdvisor! RIO AVIATION INC. AIR TOURS (432) 557-9477 www.rioaviation.com Rio Aviation specializes in scenic flights over some of the most spectacular country along the Rio Grande, including the Solitario, Santa Elena Canyon and the Devil’s Playground. The plane accommodates up to four passengers comfortably, and the high-wing configuration provides an excellent platform for flightseeing and photography. COURTESY LAJITAS GOLF RESORT & SPA L AJI TAS T T LAJITAS The Lajitas Boardwalk offers a collection of interesting shops and venues to explore including Red Rock Outfitters and Christina’s World for local and regional gifts, Lajitas Art Gallery exhibiting work by local artists, the Flat Rock Theater providing a cool afternoon escape and Lysha’s Bakery for fresh baked pastries. GUADALUPE MTS. • ODESSA • VAN HORN y Marathon BIG BEND Just a quarter mile west of the Hwy. 385 turn off to the National Park, lies Marathon’s diverse historical main street village with shops, restaurants, galleries, groceries and accommodations to suit every taste and need. Railroad and ranching are still part of the local economy and are the industries that founded the town. Starting at the center of town, Post Road runs south for five miles to the Post Park. With very little traffic and fabulous views, this road is ideal for running, walking and biking. WildFUN FACT life such as deer, javelinas, The Marathon turkey and even an occasionMuseum is located at al fox can be seen in the early the corner morning or late evenings. of North Third and Post Park itself is a beautiful Avenue E (on the secluded pond and county Square) in the hispark on the Pena Colorado toric “Club House,” originally the site of river shaded by Cottonwood the first schoolhouse trees and surrounded by Los in Buchel-Brewster Caballos Novaculite MounCounty. tains. Named after the old cavalry post in the mid1800’s known as Camp Pena Colorado, it is popular in birding circles as one of the few accessible sources of spring water in the Big Bend region. It hosts the longest running community event in Big Bend…. The 4th of July dance. For more photos, see marathontexas.com and themarathonfoundation.org Visit the tiny local library and stop in for the Wednesday pre-school children’s program, or visit the Marathon Museum and old jail. Take in local geologic features, from the bluntness of Iron Mountain to the north to the lightness of the Glass Mountains, one of the few It is especially attractive to astronomers exposed uplifted coral reefs in Texas. because Marathon is blessed by having a While in Marathon, you’ll stand on rare distinction of being an established, some of the oldest rocks from the Paleozoic age (250-600 million years functional community under a ‘Class 1 ago). The Marathon Uplift exposes Dark Sky’ (Dark as it gets)! … right in the Ouachita Mountains (Arkansas town. Its remote geographic location, eland Oklahoma) that were heaved up evation and size all contribute to enhancduring the formation of the ancient ing this natural resource. Even though continent of Pangaea (when all the continents were one). Road cuts east the surrounding communities are under of town on Highway 90 and south on the ‘same sky’, their increasing light polHighway 385 expose spectacular fealution is adversely affecting their night tures such as strike-slip faults, unusual sky. Marathon’s local community and folding and fossil fragments. businesses are on their way to protecting Whether you are looking for dark every exterior light in town from intruskies, luxurious accommodations, a local haven, shops and galleries, bicysion on the fabulous dark sky. cling, birding, running, yoga, hiking in the National Park or just plain relaxation…. Marathon is your town. p J UST 40 MILES NORTH of the entrance to Big Bend Nat’l Park lies the quaint community of Marathon. Situated in what is known as the Magnificent Marathon Basin, Marathon boasts a delightful climate, beautiful surroundings and friendly people, in addition to being centrally located to many of the area’s unique attractions. With the entrance to Big Bend National Park so close, many folks stay in Marathon and hike in the park every day. 44 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM DANIEL SELF Marathon Should you decide to make Marathon your destination, or when you’re ready to head down the road, you’re a manageable distance from just about anywhere in the area. Alpine is a mere 30 miles. Another 26 will get you to either Marfa or Fort Davis. But if you’re like most, you’ll probably be heading south to Big Bend National Park. Good news — Marathon is closer to the park than any other town in the region, at just 48 miles. Marathon is sitting pretty as the locals’ haven and visitors’ uncovered jewel, just a hop, skip and a jump from all that welcomes visitors to far West Texas and its own little corner of heaven. BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK Attractions MARATHON CHILI COOK-OFF Five miles south of town, this shady oasis known simply as “The Post” (pictured on p. 44) was the original town site. Its location on the Comanche Trail necessitated the establishment of a cavalry post there. Although very little remains of the army post, it nevertheless gives the spot its current name. It is a popular location for dances, picnics and fishing, and is one of the best birding sites in the region. MARATHON HISTORICAL MUSEUM Displays on early ranching, railroads and the mercantile history of Marathon. North 3rd Street and Avenue E. HALLIE’S HALL OF FAME MUSEUM Located 40 miles south on Highway 385, then six miles east on FM 2627, this family museum honors the memory of legendary ranch woman, teacher and author Hallie Stillwell. Call before going as their hours vary (432) 376-2244. GAGE GARDENS & WALKING TOUR This shady 26-acre park often serves as a venue for weddings and other events, and its orchards supply the Gage restaurant with fresh fruits and produce. It also features a quartermile walking trail, water fountains and pond, and a putting green. The grounds are open to the public. 46 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM SPA AT THE GAGE HOTEL 102 W. Hwy 90 (800) 884-GAGE www.gagehotel.com Luxury spa in the historic Gage Hotel. Massages, body wraps. The ultimate in relaxation. Events Lodging EVE’S GARDEN ORGANIC BED & BREAKFAST 200 N.W. 3rd St. (432) 386-4165 www.evesgarden.org Seven colorful guest rooms handbuilt with recycled materials, each with private bath, surround a lush garden courtyard. Includes guest courtesy room and full organic breakfast. GAGE HOTEL 102 W. Hwy 90 (800) 884-GAGE www.gagehotel.com Unique, historic, sophisticated boutique hotel. and hours: www.famousburro.com or call in your order (during business hours) and they’ll have it ready for pick up: 432-386-4100. FRENCH COMPANY GROCER Just north of the bank (432) 386-4522 www.frenchcogrocer.com Homemade sandwiches, salads, bread, cookies and coffee. Groceries, natural foods, beer/wine, camping supplies, ATM and internet access. 12 GAGE in the Gage Hotel - 101 Hwy 90 West (432) 386-4205 www.gagehotel.com An extraordinary dining experience in the historic Gage Hotel. July 4-7, 2014 – CASI-sponsored chili cook-offs Friday and Saturday. Dance at “the Post” Saturday night featuring Craig Carter and the Spur of the Moment band. WEST FEST AND CABRITO COOK-OFF The last weekend of September, cooks vie for top prize with cabrito (goat) specialties. Activities include washer pitching, team roping, softball, live music and a dance. MARATHON 2 MARATHON 5K, 10K, half and full marathons on the new Highway 385 course. Prerun pasta dinner at the Gage Hotel. Dinner and dance celebration at the Marathon Motel. Oct. 25, 2014. www.marathon2marathon.net COWBOY SOCIAL First Sunday in November starting at 3 p.m. Includes a dance, fajita dinner, cash bar, silent auction and “wheelbarrow of wine” raffle, all benefiting the Marathon Health Clinic. (432) 386-3122 FIESTA DE NOCHE BUENA A community event in the spirit of the winter holiday season. Galleries and shops open on the first Saturday in December as musicians stroll among the downtown revelers. Starts at dusk. MARATHON MOTEL West Hwy 90 (866) 386-4241 www.marathonmotel.com Established in 1940 and recently renovated with 10 newly decorated rooms divided between four duplex cabins. Also, 19 full RV hookups. Service includes water, 30/50 amp electricity, sewer and cable television. Easy-to-navigate entrance and clean, bright restrooms, complete with showers — available to RVers at no additional charge. Food & Drink THE FAMOUS BURRO The Famous Burro is located at 100 North East 1st Street in the heart of Marathon, Texas. From handmade burgers to our fully-stocked bar, to a free game room and stellar staff, the Burro offers affordable and casual dining in the heart of Big Bend. Check the website and Facebook page for updates on live music, dinner specials Art & Galleries EVANS GALLERY Four doors down from the Gage (432) 386-4366 www.jameshevans.com Featuring the photographs of James H. Evans, a 25-year resident of Marathon and author of Big Bend Pictures and Crazy from the Heat. Home of Desert Critter Wear — clothing and linens with printed desert critters. FROM TOP: PHILLIP MOELLERING, COURTESY JAMES EVANS CAMP PENA COLORADO (POST PARK) Marathon is the northern and eastern gateway to Big Bend National Park. A 45-minute drive takes you to the park entrance, where you are greeted with breathtaking desert vistas. After another 45-minute drive inside the park you can find yourself in the cool, high Chisos Mountains Basin, where you can see across the river into Mexico. GUADALUPE MTS. • ODESSA • VAN HORN ALPINE y • Marfa BIG BEND T Marfa A vanguard for minimalism and modern art, Marfa continues to mystify and amaze visitors. FROM TOP: COURTESY TEX TOLER, COURTESY TEX TOLER HE ENIGMATIC city of Marfa sits in the high desert of Texas, surrounded by distant mountains in daylight and mysterious ghost lights at night. Fittingly named after a character in a novel, Marfa has a history of attracting creative spirits. Founded as a railroad water stop in the 1880s, the city limits are still bound on all sides by working cattle ranches, many still operated by their original descendants. On any given day you can find these natives in one of the many fine restaurants, galleries or cultural events Marfa offers, along with visitors from all over the world who come in for urban dislocation. On the surface, it is a typical rural town - a main street, a courthouse, churches and well-kept houses. Look deeper and you will find restaurants and art collections to rival New York or Berlin, a hotel filled with movie stars’ memories and unrivaled eclectic accommodations (like El Cosmico’s renovated vintage trailers, scout tents, traditional 22-foot Sioux teepees and campsites, or the uber-modern Hotel Thunderbird). Until the 1970s, Marfa was best known for the ghost lights and as the film location for James Dean’s final picture, GIANT, also starring Rock Hudson, Elizabeth Taylor and Dennis Hopper. The classically beautiful Hotel Paisano served as the center of activity during the making of the movie. Now, the well-appointed rooms offer modern conveniences while preserving the spirit of its past. If you are unable to stay there, a visit is a must - sit in by a roaring fireplace in the lobby or enjoy the outside courtyard and fountain. In 1971, Donald Judd, the renowned minimalist artist, moved to Marfa from New York City with the intention of permanently installing his art. Since Judd’s death in 1994, two foundations have been working to maintain his legacy: the Chinati Foundation and Judd Foundation. The Chinati Foundation now occupies more than 10 buildings and has on permanent exhibit work by such artists as John Chamberlain and Dan Flavin. While in Marfa, don’t forget to find your way to the viewing station east of town where you can study the mystery of the Marfa Ghost Lights as they dance across the foothills of the Chinati Mountains. Seen by the earliest settlers to the area, they continue to mystify travelers and passersby, and are part of the continuing enigma and magic that is Marfa. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 47 A MARFA MYSTERY LIGHTS Marfa’s “Mystery Ghost Lights” were first documented by rancher Robert Ellison in 1883. Many theories about the source of these curious lights abound, but no one has ever been able to fully explain the phenomenon. Swamp gas, phosphorescent mineral displays, ball lightning, UFOs and wandering spirits of Apache ancestors have been proposed. Whatever the cause, these playful lights above Mitchell Flat are an enduring attraction. You’ll find a roadside park and viewing center complete with restroom facilities, picnic tables and long-range viewing devices along Highway 90 just eight miles east of town. B PRESIDIO COUNTY COURTHOUSE The highest golf course in Texas, situated at 4,882 feet above sea level, this 9-hole course offers not only well-kept greens but also 360-degree views of blue mountains and open ranchland. It is a wonderfully manicured surprise in the middle of the desert mountains. (432) 729-4043. W 1S ILL SH RD AN YO N S YALE TO C EREIO S AP VILL RING CO E WA S NE TON LVES E GA S SP S LLA E DA ND LY W MADRID IO TON N AN HLA ACO WW PASO E SA S HIG STIN N STO ALVE WG E OAK IO S AU S ERE VILL C RING N NE C S KEL ER MM KATHENNE L U ATEA BONNIE PASO ALLA WD ACO WW RAN E LIN 112 AD 1 H RO E EL ONIO ANT S HIL S SU S PL R OVE S HO S YALE S ALYAFORD S EDINBURG W TON AN LLY ER MM N XAS E TE AK WO W EL W SA VES GAL N DE STIN N KE N SU ESA SO S 2 N COL N GTO SHIN E WA N SP N AU LL 1 N L PA ALLA WD B E MU N AP U AS WW OLN LINC Y RPH WM TO HING WE PIN E CO Y RPH N HI MBIA OLU WC HY URP WM IA B LUM T D W 2N NM W 48 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM T E 1S T SA N ME N RIDGE S HARTFORD S TENISON W MADRID D E 2N D W 2N D W 3R N NOMEZ AN D W 3R SACRAMENTO PARIS E SALOROSA E MENDIAS W 1S PHILADELPHIA IO N ORDENER spaces at the hub of Marfa culture. OcEL COSMICO WEEKEND cupying much of former Fort D.A. RusThe annual El Cosmico Weekend sell, the Chinati Foundation houses a takes place in September and imports permanent collection of music and fun to Marfa. El Cosmico ofcontemporary art, as fers alternative lodging options well as temporary to travelers in the 17 exhibits by artists forms of renovated E LIVINGSTON in residence. The vintage trailers, E TENONO Judd Foundation yurts, a teepee E SALGADO focuses primarily and campsites. FREMONT ANTON Originally a gathering orchestrated by the Chinati and Judd Foundations, Chinati Weekend (formerly “Open House”) has grown to be a full-scale weekend of art and activity . www.chinati.org. CHINATI FOUNDATION , JUDD FOUNDATION and BALLROOM MARFA are three nonprofit art MARFA LIGHTS FESTIVAL The Marfa Lights Festival takes place each Labor Day weekend, with many of the activities surrounding the picturesque Presidio County Courthouse. The festival begins on Friday when food and craft vendors open their booths. Saturday morning starts with a 5K walk/run and a parade down Highland Avenue. Live music is featured throughout the weekend. In 2014, Tejano legend Sunny Ozuna stars. PADRE’S ANNIVERSARY CHINATI WEEKEND Art W 2ND Housed in an 1880s adobe known as the Humphris-Humphreys House, this museum features displays of GIANT, the W SAN Events N DE W 3RD MARFA MUNICIPAL GOLF COURSE ER MM N SU U ATEA N PL N RIDGE N CAPOTE N MISSOURI Built in 1886, the Goddess of Justice stands atop this elegant Second Empire-style domed structure that was restored in 2001. A climb to the cupola provides a 360-degree panoramic view of the Marfa Plateau, Chinati Peak and nearby Davis Mountains. Hours W 5TH are 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday through W 4TH Friday. MARFA C AND PRESIDIO COUNTY MUSEUM on the work of Chinati founder Donald Judd, while Ballroom Marfa features revolving exhibits of international acclaim, along with numerous music events throughout the year. In addition to these three organizations, several independent galleries and studios are open across town. www.chinati.org www.juddfoundation.org www.ballroommarfa.org Chihuahuan Desert, local military and county history, and a collection of panoramic photography by Frank Duncan. Hours 2-5 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. Attractions A Marfa’s favorite funeral home turned watering hole holds its annual Memorial Day weekend celebration. Live music, good food and great people. www.padresmarfa.com Food & Drink SQUEEZE MARFA 1 Across from the Presidio County Courthouse (432) 729-4500 www.squeezemarfa.com www.vollenweiderchocolate.com Smoothies, juices, soups, sandwiches, salads and Vollenweider Swiss chocolate. PLANET MARFA 200 S. Abbot St. (432) 386-5099 Offering a shady, open-air beer garden Friday through Sunday from spring break to Thanksgiving, the patio features a two-sided bar hut, a domed dance floor and stage, a full scale tipi-kiva with a fire ring, private party suite, ping pong, darts and bull-ring game areas, and a Marfa Lights tour bus. Nachos and homemade pico de gallo are served from the kitchen until 10 p.m. Owned and operated by the founders, Jon & Aase Johnson since Labor Day weekend of 2010, Planet Marfa has been called the best little Mexican beach bar this side of Mazatlan. Lodging 2 HOTEL PAISANO 207 N. Highland (866) 729-3669 www.hotelpaisano.com A historic hotel with 41 rooms, dining room, shopping and a heated pool,. The Paisano hosted the stars of the movie GIANT and now serves as the social headquarters for Marfa. Enjoy patio dining by the fountain and views of the exquisite Trost architecture. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 49 MUSEUM OF THE SOUTHWEST Explore the museum and see the many collections and rotating exhibits, with more than 12,000 works of art. While you’re there visit the hands-on children’s museum and see the stars at the planetarium. (432) 683-2882 or www. museumsw.org Midland y GUADALUPE MTS. • VAN HORN • ODESSA ALPINE • BIG BEND FUN FACT Susie’s South Forty Confections Candy Factory is a GuinnessTM World Record-Holder for making the largest piece of toffee. It was shaped like the state of Texas. CAF AIRPOWER MUSEUM FUN FACT p XCOR Aerospace has moved their headquarters from California to Midland and will soon be offering suborbital flights on the Lynx in Midland. Midland PHOTOS COURTESY MIDLAND CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU Fly into Midland International Airport (closest airport to Big Bend) and stay a couple nights to experience the culture and cuisine in this exciting metropolitan city before heading down to the mountains. W HEN MOST people think of Midland, they envision big hats, oil rigs, cowboy boots and true Texas manners. They’re not far off. Folks in the Permian Basin are proud of their Texas roots and the prosperity they’ve found in the oil business. But beyond that, they’ve carved out a niche in the world unlike most others you’ll experience in your travels. Nicknamed the “Tall City” for its jutting downtown against the vast plains of the basin, Midland’s downtown and area attractions make it a great place to start your journey westward. Take a look at what it has to offer, and “Feel the Energy” for yourself. World renowned for World War II artifacts, the museum is host to the world’s largest collection of Aviation Nose Art and the annual CAF AIRSHO in October. (432) 563-1000 or www.airpowermuseum.org GEORGE W. BUSH PRESIDENTIAL CHILDHOOD HOME Nowhere else has one building been home to so many influential people. This 1,492-square-foot house has been called home by two presidents, two governors, a former CIA director and ambassador to China, and a first lady. (432) 685-1112 or www.bushchildhoodhome.org PERMIAN BASIN PETROLEUM MUSEUM AND CHAPARRAL GALLERY Roam the 60,000 square feet of the museum and discover the history of oil and the important role it plays in our past, present and future. See firsthand the chaparral race cars whose designs have a prominent place in racing history. (432) 683-4403 or www.petroleummuseum.org BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 51 STONEHENGE The amazing replica of the original Stonehenge fascinates visitors from around the world. The replica is 70 percent of the original’s dimensions and exact in horizontal size, with the tallest or the limestone standing at 19 feet. The exhibit is located on the University of the Permian Basin Campus. www. odessahistory.com/menusthg.htm. Odessa y GUADALUPE MTS. • VAN HORN ALPINE • BIG BEND O d es sa When it comes to variety and fun, Odessa, Texas, is The Right Place to Be. ELLEN NOËL ART MUSEUM FUN FACT p PHOTOS COURTESY ODESSA CONVENTION AND VISITORS BUREAU The book Friday Night Lights: A Town, a Team, and a Dream by author H. G. Bissinger and subsequent movie (Friday Night Lights) are based on the 1988 football season of the Permian Panthers, one of the two high school football teams in Odessa. The book also inspired an NBC television series of the same name. F as a water stop and cattle shipping point on the Texas and Pacific Railway, Odessa has grown to be a real metropolitan area, with all the accoutrements of big city living. In fact, Odessa is one of the most economically important cities in Texas. But beyond the rigs, the roughnecks and the rodeos, Odessa is a simple town with a heart of gold. With that great fortitude comes great respect for culture and the arts — not to mention a penchant for sports. Home to sports organizations like the North American Hockey League team the Odessa Jackalopes, this is the place to stay when you’re looking for in-city activities that will wow the kids and entertain mom and dad as well. The Ellen Noel Art Museum of the Permian Basin is an independent art museum. The museum features rotating exhibitions of historical and contemporary art, a permanent sculpture/sensory garden, and programs of art education for all ages. The Museum is one of only two art museums in the state of Texas that has been granted the Smithsonian Affiliation. The Museum is located at 4909 E. University. www.noelartmuseum.org ODESSA METEOR CRATER MUSEUM & VISITOR CENTER The crater, the second-largest in the nation, is approximately 550 feet in diameter and almost 100 feet deep. Just west of Odessa off I-20, Exit 108. (432) 381-0946 OUNDED IN 1881 GLOBE OF THE GREAT SOUTHWEST Modeled after Shakespeare's original Globe Theatre. Home of stage plays and the Brand New Opree, a showcase for musical talent. Also features the Anne Hathaway Cottage. The Theatre is located on the Odessa College Campus at 2308 Shakespeare Road. www.globesw.org BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 53 CROCKETT COUNTY MUSEUM Dedicated to sharing and preserving history, featuring an award winning Indian Exhibit,visitors will leave this museum feeling as if they have truly traveled through time. This three story period museum with its general store, bank room, saddle room, school room and many other exhibits, depict so clearly the heritage of this region and the way of life once lived by so many before us. www.crockettcountymuseum.com ODESSA • GUADALUPE MTS. Ozona • VAN HORN y BIG BEND TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER When it comes to variety and fun, Odessa, Texas, is The Right Place to Be. Open Monday through Friday, 9am-5pm, and Saturdays from 10am-3pm. 24- hour restrooms. Find local and regional details as well as tourist information for a 300 mile radius of Ozona. Located at the Intersection of I-10 and Hwy. 163 South. Exit 365. www.ozona.cvom CROCKETT COUNTY INTERPRETIVE TRAIL Open to the public 7 days a week and located just across the parking lot of the Visitor Center at the intersection of I-10 and Hwy. 163 South. PHOTOS COURTESY OZONA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Located in the Texas Pecos Trail, Ozona is the perfect I-10 stop between San Antonio and El Paso. O Ozona ZONA’S TOWN SQUARE is one of beauty, charm and warmth. This is a spot for locals and visitors alike. Just relax and enjoy the feel and sound of a West Texas breeze rustling through tall pecan trees, or the sound of music from the Gazebo. The square is home to the Tie That Binds Sculpture, a memorial to pioneer families, and to the Davy Crockett Monument whose name the county seat bears. A monument in his honor stands in Ozona’s Town Square where thousands of visitors stop for a photograph. The purpose of the trail is to educate local and regional residents and visitors across the country about the importance of water conservation, and the use of native plants. Plants are part of our heritage and the trail system can help us preserve and respect their contribution to our everyday lives. They provide food, fiber, shelter, and are used for medicinal and ceremonial purposes.. Plants play a key environmental role for pollination, feeding livestock, and oxygen. The trail includes a Rain Harvest Exhibit developed by the Agri-Life Extension Office. There you will find signage on the process of collecting water for livestock, landscaping or at-home use. Inside the Visitor Center are resource materials on how to actually build your own Rain Harvest site. With over 231 plants, over 45 have been signed and included in a brochure that will take you on a self-guided tour around the trail. This brochure will enable you to identify the plants and learn about their purpose. www.ozona.com BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 55 ODESSA • GUADALUPE MTS. • VAN HORN y Presidio BIG BEND Presidio Incredible wonders like no other place on earth await you in Presidio, Texas BRAD NEWTON I BY NOE TORRES t’s ONE OF THE STRANGEST sagas in the bizarre history of the Texas Big Bend region. In 1914, iconic Mexican revolutionary Pancho Villa came to the Presidio area after accepting an offer from a Hollywood movie director to film Villa’s planned attack on Mexican federal troops stationed in Ojinaga, across the Rio Grande River from Presidio. The Battle of Ojinaga, as it came to be known, turned out to be a watershed moment in the Mexican Revolution, and the movie, The Life of General Villa, helped Villa raise desperatelyneeded money for his underfunded army. These unusual events were chronicled in the 2003 movie And Starring Pancho Villa as Himself, featuring Antonio Banderas as Villa. Presidio played an important role in the Battle of Ojinaga, being the site of Pancho Villa’s armory, located on what is now Old Bridge Street. Presidio became a key supply line for the Mexican Revolution, enabling the transfer of guns, ammunition and supplies from Texas to the rebels. During his frequent visits to Presidio, Villa stayed at the home of friends Amador and Estella Estrada, who lived on what is now Serria Street in Presidio. After the brief Battle of Ojinaga, which resulted in a resounding victory for Villa’s troops, the defeated “federales” fled in panic across the Rio Grande to Presidio, leaving behind their weapons. In Presidio, the refugees surrendered to the U.S. Army and were eventually transported to the Fort Bliss Army Base in El Paso, where they were detained “for their own safety.” Two years after the Battle of Ojinaga, Villa, increasingly upset about U.S. support for the federal government of Mexican President Venustiano Carranza, decided to attack a U.S. town along the border with Mexico. Originally, he told his inner circle that he would attack Presidio, but the actual attack was eventually made on Columbus, New Mexico. Visitors to Presidio can find out more about Pancho Villa and the Battle of Ojinaga from a special exhibit at Fort Leaton State Historical Site. Presidio’s prominent role in the Mexican Revolution is only part of the town’s unique and colorful history. Archeologists have found traces of dinosaurs roaming the region over 100 million years ago and thriving human settlements more than 1,500 years before Christ. There were humans living in what is now Presidio during the time of the Biblical Exodus and at the dusk of Egypt’s age of the pyramids. Spaniard Cabeza de Vaca explored Presidio in 1535 AD, and in the late 1800s, the area experienced raids by both Comanches and Mexican bandits. While students of history and archeology find a wealth of information from which to choose, other visitors enjoy simply spending time admiring, photographing, and touring the majesty of the vast outdoors. The “view from here” is so magnificent that no film or photograph can possibly do it justice, and one must experience it firsthand. Marvels abound, from the ghostly Chinati Mountains, where strange, unexplained lights have been appearing almost every night since the 1800s, to the unbounded panoramic vistas of the Big Bend Ranch State Park, whose 300,000 acres unveil spectacular sights, including the state’s second tallest waterfall, Madrid Falls. Fans of the unexplained will find a treasure trove of paranormal activity in the area, including the reported crash of a flying saucer northwest of Presidio in 1974, the recovery of a non-human skull called the “Star Child” in nearby Chihuahua, the enigmatic Marfa Lights, a mysterious area of psychic energy referred to as Mexico’s “Bermuda Triangle,” a historic silver mine “ghost town,” strange prehistoric fossils and rock art - plus many other astonishing tales. In celebration of its paranormal roots, Presidio hosts the Border Zone International UFO Festival each October. The 2014 event will be held October 24 & 25 and features one of the world’s most renowned UFO researchers, Nick Pope, along with other speakers. For 21 years, Nick was in charge of the British government’s “X Files,” investigating UFO sightings, crop circles, alien abductions, and ESP. He has been called a real-life Fox Mulder. Complete in- formation about the UFO Festival is at http://UFOborderzone.com. In addition to the Presidio area’s history and natural features, many visitors simply enjoy the magnificence and freedom of exploring the great outdoors in cars, on motorcycles, on mountain bikes, in river rafts, or using other forms of transportation. For years, the area has been a treasured gem for motorcycle enthusiasts from throughout the country. They tell us that there’s no feeling quite like riding their machines, enjoying the fresh air and abundant sunshine, while surrounded by the splendor and majesty of the area’s soaring mountains and rugged beauty. Those who prefer to ride the waves rather than motorcycles will find abundant river rafting opportunities on the Rio Grande, as the scenic river winds its way slowly past rugged canyons and lofty mountains. Jeep tours and mountain biking also serve to bring visitors up close and personal with wonders that words fail to describe. Visitors to the Presidio area need not be concerned about their safety, as this is one of the safest areas in the United States. The crime rate is miniscule (less than 10% of the national average), and the neighboring town of Ojinaga is also among the safest in Mexico. You can travel these beautiful, wide-open spaces without the worries associated with visiting other, larger border towns. Prepare yourself for an immersive journey of relaxation, discovery, and wide-eyed wonder. Let Presidio, truly one of our nation’s hidden treasures, serve as your base of operations. This massive park of almost 300,000 acres flanks the “River Road” and features trailheads, small recreation areas, primitive camping and river access points. www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/bigbend/ D FM 170 WEST — MOTORCYCLE RIDE TO RUIDOSA AND CHINATI HOT SPRINGS About 36 miles northwest of Presidio on FM 170, Ruidosa, a once thriving agricultural community, today is home to a general store, the ruins of the historic Sagrado Corazon Mission, which was built in 1914, and cantinas that serve beer and wine in the evenings. Also at the end of FM 170 is Candelaria, a beautiful drive often not seen by most visitors. Attractions ST. FRANCIS PLAZA A BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK C St. Francis Plaza, a walled garden with benches and fountains, is dedicated to the contributions of Franciscan Missionaries to Presidio and Ojinaga. B FORT LEATON STATE HISTORIC SITE The Chinati Hot Springs features constant 110 degree, mineral-rich waters which have been regarded for their healing qualities for well over 100 years. Fees are charged for baths, cabins, and camping. The graded dirt Hot Springs Road heads north from FM 170 just past Ruidosa. www.chinatihotsprings.com Visit a massive, fortified adobe trading post dating from the 1840s. Interpretive exhibits highlight area history. Day-use only. www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/fortleat/ 67 E 0 FM 17 D SHAFTER WAY H VY CEDAR AVE RD LE RALPH ENGLAND ST 67 HURD AVE ILL NC OT H D SUNSET ST FO BL VD RA BLEDSOE BLVD BUNTON AVE SILVER AVE CASSELL ST DOD AVE OJINAGA AVE MARKET ST LONG HORN AVE FOOTHILL BLVD MARKET ST COMMERCE ST TOMAS ORNEL A S ST COMMERCE ST I O’REILLY ST O’REILLY ST CHICAGO ST SANTA CRUZ AVE SIERRA AVE DURAN ST K FM 170 VELA ST ORNELAS ST GONAZLES AVE TRAVER ST PROPST ST MANUEL ORNELAS ST CALIXTRO & JUAN QUIROZ ST ALFREDO BAEZA ST ISHMAEL SPENCER BRIDGE ST JULIAN TAVAREZ ST JUAREZ ST FRANCISCO SPENCER ST IGNACIO ST THOMPSON ST LOVETT ST SCOTT ST PARIS ST LONDON ST BRIDGE ST BARTON AVE ASHLAND ST RALPH ENGLAND ST A FERNANDO DALY ST COMMERCE ST 67 MADRID ST DUPUY AVE ST HR D LV ERMA AVE BLEDSOE BLVD MARKET ST BOMAR AVE LEATON ST 67 LAFAYETTE ST J INE ALP ALPINE ST SIMON GONZALEZ ST LAGONA AVE F E LB IL LOUVAIN BLVD 67 67 LONG HORN AVE H OT ROSEDALE ST LOUVAIN BLVD BLEDSOE BLVD ALTON AVE DOD AVE FO ROSEDALE AVE 67 ITT AV 1ST ST SUMM 1ST AVE BELMONT ST JOSE RODRIGUEZ ST DIAZ ST EL CAMPO ST HOWARD ST PORTO RICO ST CASSELL ST HENRY DALY ST LOUVAIN BLVD E AV 2ND AVE H 4T LEATON ST EDMUNDO M. NIETO ST G BROOKS ST BEACH AVE MILLINGTON BLVD NDO ORLA ST ER AV RIV E FM 170 4TH ST FM 170 C e nd ra oG Ri B M EX Presidio O IC 1 mile BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 57 170 Twenty miles north of Presidio on Highway 67 are the remains of a once prosperous silver mining town. Extensive ruins are visible, though fenced against trespassing. Shafter is Texas’ only working silver mine operated by Rio Grande Silver mine. F OJINAGA, MEXICO An easy drive across the International Bridge, Ojinaga welcomes visitors with a variety of excellent restaurants and shops, a casual atmosphere, and friendly, helpful locals. The cultural museum is a must see on the road from the International Bridge. www.ojinaga. com LA JUNTA DE LOS RIOS G La Junta de los Rios is a historic farming and trading areas at the junction of the Rio Grande (celled Rio del Norte by the Spanish) and the Rio Conchos. H ELEPHANT ROCK & PROFILE OF LINCOLN This bizarre rock structure can be viewed from Highway 67 just outside of Shafter. Another favorite rock novelty, the profile of Lincoln can be viewed from Highway 67 just north of Presidio. I Presidio Aquatic Center & Sports Complex Go swimming at the new swimming pool or catch a ballgame. In Presidio, baseball is our local pastime. http://presidiotx.us J Presidio Port Of Entry U.S. Customs and Border Protection, open to Traffic 24/7. Phone 432 229 3349, 99400 Highway 67, PO Box 1959, Presidio, Texas 79845 Check out the wait times updated hourly: http://apps.cbp.gov/bwt/rss. asp?portList=240301&f=html K FM 170 East (River road) National Geographic magazine calls FM 170 to Presidio one of the “Top 10 Scenic Highways in North America” It is a favorite touring ride for motorcycle enthusiasts. Ride to Presidio! 58 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM Events Presidio Business Directory FOURTH OF JULY The Presidio Municipal Development District (PMDD) The Fourth of July Celebration in Presidio is held at Daly Park. Vendor booths and activities are planned. Celebrating our nation’s birthday with a fun-filled evening of free games, free swimming, food, music and of course fireworks! (432) 229-3517 2014 Border Zone INTERNATIONAL UFO FESTIVAL Friday, October 24 and Saturday, October 25. This year’s Festival features Nick Pope, a UFO expert who has been called “the real Fox Mulder.” For 21 years, Nick was in charge of the British government’s “X Files,” investigating UFO sightings, crop circles, alien abductions and ESP. Also scheduled to appear are authors Noe Torres and Ruben Uriarte, whose 2007 book Mexico’s Roswell, put Presidio, Texas, on the “UFO map” by disclosing an amazing flying saucer incident that occurred within 50 miles of Presidio. DUDE OF THE DEAD MUSIC FESTIVAL 507 W. O’Reilly St. • 432-229-3517 xt 106 Presidio Tourism Department 507 W. O’Reilly St. City Hall • (432) 229 3199 • www.presidiotx.us Places to Stay Three Palms Inn 1200 N. Erma Ave (432)229-3211 Riata Inn Motel 99205 Hwy 67 N (432) 229-2528 Big Bend Telephone 106 Fernando Daly St. Telephone and Internet service (800)-592-4781 Big Bend Trucking Box 892 Trucking services (432)295-1136 Bullet Transport Shopping & Services A & C Furniture 403 E. O’Reilly St. Furniture and mattresses (432)-229-2882 Alco Discount 1000 US Hwy 67 Department store (432)-229-3166 99203 Hwy 67 International transportation, warehouse services, long-term parking (432)-229 4427 Dollar General Store 1304 W. O’Reilly St. Discount store (432) 229-4284 Dollar Tree 312 W. O’Reilly St. Everything’s a $1 Discount Store Oct. 24-25, 2014. Two days of camping and community, one day of music and festivities. http://dudeofthedead.net/ All Aboard America Bus Line 102 W. Center St. Passenger bus transportation (432) 229-3003 501 E. O’Reilly St. Coin-op laundromat Arts Festival Alma’s Beauty Salon The Presidio Arts Festival is inviting local artists, student artists, professional and amateur alike, dance groups, musicians, performers and cultural organizations to participate in the ninth annual Presidio Arts Festival. This event is an annual celebration held the last weekend in March. http://arts.presidiotx.us 901 E. O’Reilly Men and women’s hairstyling and cuts (432)-229-4566 or 432-294-1796 902 E. O’Reilly St. Indoor gym, exercise equip. FIRST CHRISTMAS IN TEXAS After Cabeza de Vaca’s visit, a number of Spanish expeditions came to present Presidio County, the first in 1581. The entrada of Juan Domínguez de Mendoza and Father Nicolás López in 1683–84 established seven missions at seven pueblos along the river in the La Junta area. In 1683 Father López celebrated the first Christmas Mass ever observed in Texas at La Junta in modern day Presidio, Texas. Angell Expeditions FM 170 West River trips, Jeep excursions and guided tours (432) 229-3713 Arevalo Tax Service 302 W. Louvain Ave. (432) 229 4385 Alse Miscellaneous Store 1120 O’Reilly St. Imports, cosmetics & household goods American Taxi International transportation service (432)-238-1366 or 1367 Nights: (432)-229-2641 Amistad Loan Co. 100 N. Erma Ave. Small loans (432)-229-2417 Downtown Laundry Editbody Fitness Escontrias Brokerage 99011 Hwy 76 Custom broker, long-term parking (432)-229-4305 Family Dollar Store 404 W. O’Reilly St. Discount store (432)-229-3849 Farmers Insurance 507 US Hwy 67 Home & auto insurance, Mexico insurance (432)-229-2874 First Presidio Bank 601 N. Erma Ave. Banking & ATM service (432)-229-3724 Ft. Davis State Bank 206 E. O’Reilly St. Banking & ATM service (432)-229-5000 FROM TOP: UFO BORDERZONE.COM, BRAD NEWTON SHAFTER E Glamor Bridal & Quince Montana Western Wear 250 Gonzales St. Women’s formal gowns & dresses 1120 O’Reilly St. Western apparel (432) 229-3224 Harper Hardware 701 W. O’Reilly St. Hardware, paint, plumbing (432)-229-3256 Indi’s Boutique 701 E. O’Reilly St. Women’s clothing (432)-229-3798 Karina’s Discount Store 103 E. Commerce St. Clothing & accessories store (432)-229-4767 L & S Warehouse 1400 Foothill Cold beverages & beer to go UETA The Enlightened Bean 1305 W. O’Reilly St. Duty-free liquor and perfumes (432) 229-3766 Pilo’s Thrift Store Valenzuela Mexico Insurance 201 W. O’Reilly St. Breakfast & lunch only, sandwiches, espresso (432) 229-3131 1300 O’Reilly St. Thrift Store items 99203 Hwy 67. Mexican auto Insurance (915) 493-4288 Presidio Lumber 502 W. O’Reilly St. Hardware and lumber (432) 229-3320 Velasco Dump & Backhoe Services La Junta Insurance Presidio Taxi 1403 O’Reilly St. Insurance, real estate, Mexico insurance (432)-229-4621 Transportation service (432) 229-2959 M. Nieto Department Store 903 W. O’Reilly St. Dry Goods, appliances, and ranch supply (432) 229-3220 M & M Ramirez Store 705 O’Reilly St. Discount clothing (432) 229-3526 Mario Vargas Customs House Broker 409 W Rosedale Ave. Custom services, long-term parking (432) 229-4902 Maverick Finance of Texas 709 E. O’Reilly St. Small loans, tax preparation (432) 229-3686 Melrose Family Fashions 502 W. O’Reilly St. Clothing department store (432) 229-2955 513 O’Reilly St. Mexican & American cuisine (432) 229-4409 506 O’Reilly St. Footwear (432) 229-2991 Presidio Medical Center 805 O’Reilly St. Flowers & floral arrangements (432) 229-2414 El Patio Restaurant Payless Shoe Source 410 N. Belmont Mexico export custom broker, US Postal Services (432)-229-4494 Las Flores de Van Gogh Triangulo West Drive-Thru 501 E. O’Reilly St. Health Services (432) 229-4246 1209 Utopia Rd. Earth moving equipment, site prep. (432) 229-3769 WTG Fuels 1508 E. Huckabee St. Propane tanks filled (432) 229-3614 Xtreme Wireless Presidio Cable 511 O’Reilly St. Internet & cable television provider (432) 229-3805 700 W. O’Reilly St. Page Plus, AT&T and Verizon wireless sales & service (432)-229-3940 Rainbow Self-Service Laundry Places to Eat 912 O’Reilly St. Coin-op laundromat (432) 229-3036 Big A Mart 200 E. FM 170 Convenience store, snacks & beer (432) 229-4113 Rosalba Vazquez 700 W. O’Reilly St. Notary public (432) 229-2573 R’s Restaurant and Bar 1207 E. Millington St. on FM 170 E Beverages, hamburger and appetizers (432) 229-3388 RR Supply / True Value Hardware 205 W. O’Reilly St. Hardware, plumbing (432) 229-2545 Don Jose Panaderia 109 Erma St. Mexican Bakery, menudo, barbacoa (432) 229-3424 Santa Fe Cabinets 405 E. O’Reilly St. Custom made wood cabinets (432) 229-2995 D’Charly Restaurant 300 W. O’Reilly St. Hair design (432) 295-0871 Sotelo Iron Works Safe and convenient access to Mexico and the US. La Cabana 700 E. O’Reilly St. Mexican & American cuisine (432) 229-3368 La Escondida Restaurant & Bar 1215 Utopia Rd. Beer & wine, American & Mexican cuisine (432) 229-2701 Oasis Restaurant 1200 N. Erma Ave. Mexican & American cuisine (432) 229-3998 Poncho’s Pizza N Video 307 E. O’Reilly St. Pizza (432) 229-2660 Presidio 67 316 Jose Rodriquez St. Snacks, burritos & more, gasoline (432) 229-4949 Presidio Thriftway 504 N. Erma Ave. Groceries, bakery, chicken, pizza (432) 229-3776 Subway Sandwiches 1309 Hwy. 67 Sandwiches, salads, pizza, soups (432) 229-2505 DY Convenience Store Custom welding, grills, benches (432) 229-4040 or (432) 940-2116 International Border Crossing & Commercial Trade Zone 402 Texas St. Mexican food & burgers to go (432) 294-2357 100 Market St. Mexican taste & tradition (432) 229-2600 SoLange Hair Salon Presidio, Texas Discover great commerce opportunities! El Changarrito 104 E. O’Reilly St. Snacks, burritos & more, gasoline (432) 229-4488 Passport to ess! Brillian t Succ Presidio Municipal Development District supports our local businesses with this directory. Presidio Municipal Development District .us P.O. Box 3329, Presidio, TX 79845 esIDIoTx w w w.Pr (432) 229-3517 • email: DCOP@presidiotx.us BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 55 GUADALUPE MTS. ODESSA • • VAN HORN BIG BEND y Terlingua Terlingua & STUDY BUTTE T On the first Saturday of November, over 10,000 “chiliheads” convene in Terlingua for two annual chili cook-offs: the Chili Appreciation Society International and the Frank X. Tolbert/Wick Fowler World Chili Championships. These events have come to personify Terlingua and spread the reputation of this small village worldwide. Study Butte (pronounced “stoody byoot”) may be lesser known, but it is the economic hub of the area. Many stores and amenities cater to tourists and locals alike. If you’re tired from hiking and camping, you may even opt for an air-conditioned room at Big Bend Resort. Attractions HISTORIC TERLINGUA AND THE TERLINGUA GHOST TOWN On Highway 170, five miles west of 118, Terlingua Ghost Town holds the largest concentration of mining architecture in the area, restored as shops, restaurants and homes. Favorite stops include the Starlight Theatre and the front porch of the Trading Post. www.ghosttowntexas. com ROSS MAXWELL SCENIC DRIVE T of cinnabar, from which the metal mercury is extracted, in the mid-1880s brought miners to the area. The only remnants of the mining days are a ghost town of the Howard Perry-owned Chisos Mining Company and several nearby capped and abandoned mines, most notably the California Hill, the Rainbow, the 248 and the Study Butte mines. The mineral terlinguaite was first found in the vicinity of California Hill. The cinnabar was apparently known to Native Americans, who prized its brilliant red color for body pigment. Various Mexican and American prospectors gained access to the area through new train lines and there was also a decreasing threat of hostile Indians. The population of Terlingua in 2000 was 267. Due to its proximity to Big Bend National Park, Terlingua/Study Butte is mostly a tourist destination. Rafting on the Rio Grande, mountain biking, camping, hiking and motorcycling are some of the outdoor activities favored by tourists. No trip is complete without a trip into what they call the “ghost town” of Terlingua. From the famous trading post front porch, you can get a good view of the Chisos Mountain formation in Big Bend called “Mule Ears.” It will be easy to see why, once you’ve spotted it. After that, dinner (and possibly a show) at the Starlight Theater is must. BIG BEND NATIONAL PARK If you’ve made it this far, Big Bend National Park is probably on your itinerary. Terlingua and Study Butte is a great area from which to base your national park adventure. CONTRABANDO Contrabando was built as a movie set in the mid-’80s for the film Uphill all the Way. It is within Big Bend Ranch State Park, five miles west of Lajitas on Highway 170. Since 1985, the site has been used as a set for nine movies including Lone Star, as well as Dead Man’s Walk and Streets of Laredo, which were part of the Lonesome Dove miniseries based on the novel by Larry McMurtry. NATALIE PATTILLO HE DISCOVERY A stunning driving tour of the western side of Big Bend, the loop passes many favorite trail heads and ends at the majestic Santa Elena Canyon. The improved dirt Maverick Road leads back to the park entrance at Maverick Junction. 60 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM BIG BEND & LAJITAS STABLES www.lajitasstables.com/index.html lajitasstables@bigbend.net (800) 887-4331 / (432) 371-3064 Offering guided horseback rides for almost 30 years! Join us in the Frontier Lands of the Chihuahuan Desert next to Big Bend National Park, along Scenic Rio Grande and atop the mesas of the Bofecillos Mountains in Big Bend Ranch State Park. Hourly, Half or All Day & Multiple Days. Events CAMINO DEL RIO — THE RIVER ROAD Highway 170 along the Rio Grande is a favorite among travelers with several camping areas, river access points and trailheads along the way. At places the road becomes narrow, winding and very steep, making it difficult for some RVs, buses and trailer rigs. RIDE THE RIO GRANDE Terlingua/Study Butte is the jumping off point for your river adventure. The area boasts a number of experienced outfitters that will make your trip, whether it be by raft, canoe or kayak, fun and safe. RIO AVIATION INC. AIR TOURS (432) 557-9477 www.rioaviation.com Rio Aviation Specializes in scenic flights over some of the most spectacular country along the Rio Grande, including Big Bend Ranch State Park, Big Bend National Park, and the Rio Grande Wild and Scenic river. Tours include a birds eye view of some of the most spectacular features in the area including the Solitario, Santa Elena Canyon, and the Devils Playground. Flights are conducted in a Cessna 205. The plane can accommodate up to four FROM TOP: STEWART RAMSER, COURTSEY BIG BEND RESORTS, COURTESY RIO AVIATION, COURTESY CHARLIE ANGELL Outfitters & Tours ANGELL EXPEDITIONS (432) 229-3713 or (305) 336-2787 www.angellexpeditions.com Full-service outfitter serving the greater Big Bend area. River rafting, canoeing, kayaking, jeep tours, hiking, mountain biking and camping. Single and multi-day trips available, tailored to your interests and schedules. Highest ranking on TripAdvisor! TERLINGUA INTERNATIONAL CHILI CHAMPIONSHIP Chili Appreciation Society International’s annual event is held at Rancho CASI de los Chisos on the north side of Highway 170, 11 miles west of Study Butte. CASI hosts the 47th Annual Championship on the first weekend of November. The festivities include BBQ, salsa, beans and wings contests. There is live music entertainment on both Friday and Saturday nights. www.chili.org TERLINGUA GREEN SCENE The Terlingua Green Scene consists of groups of like minded citizens in the Terlingua community promoting a “Green Lifestyle” by supporting a number of “Green” projects such as the Community Garden, the Farmers Market , Recycling and the yearly Green Scene Festival. RIDE 4 TRAILS passengers comfortably, and the high wing configuration provides an excellent platform for flightseeing and photography. Rio Aviation was founded by retired Ranger Marcos Paredes and his knowledge of the area and emphasis on safety assure an enjoyable and memorable adventure. The annual Ride 4 Trails Motorcycle Rally is a fundraiser to support the trails program in Big Bend National Park. Bikers from all over the country converge on Big Bend Resorts & Adventures to participate in a weekend of live music, poker runs and great Texas barbecue — all to support the construction and maintenance of hiking and stock trails in the park. The evening of Oct. 18 (2014) features a Texas-themed dinner with BBQ brisket, sausage, cobbler for desert plus all the trimmings, followed by dancing with live music. Lodging B.J.’S RV PARK Hwy 170 W., 8 miles from Big Bend National Park, 1 mi le east of Terlingua Ghost Town. (432) 371-2259 www.bjrvpark.com Close to restaurants and music, pet friendly, Wi-Fi, full hookups, 50 amps. BIG BEND RESORT & ADVENTURES Three miles from western entrance to Big Bend National Park. (432) 371-2218 / (800) 848-2363 www.bigbendresortadventures.com Lodging, gift shop, food and convenience store. LAJITAS GOLF RESORT/ MAVERICK RANCH RV PARK Off Hwy 170; (432) 424-5000 www.lajitasgolfresort.com The full-service resort in Lajitas is also home to a beautiful 18-hole golf course, a world-class equestrian center and an outfitter service for all your hiking, mountain biking, rafting, kayaking and outdoor activity needs. Maverick Ranch RV Park offers 101 sites, including 60 full-service pullthroughs and 18 primitive wilderness campsites for those interested in having a true rustic tent camping experience. Agava Spa, located inside resort, offers massages, facials and body treatments. The gift shops are located in an Old West promenade, an eclectic mix of shops. Only fullservice resort near Big Bend Ranch State Park and National Park. HOLIDAY HOTEL Located between Study Butte and Lajitas on Highway 170, in the heart of the Historic Terlingua Ghost Town. (432) 386-0021 www.bigbendholidayhotel.com Sophisticated accommodations in a primitive setting. Lovingly restored suites, casitas, and family suites. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 61 GUADALUPE MTS. y • ODESSA Toyahvale • ALPINE BIG BEND Toyahvale & BALMORHEA BALMORHEA STATE PARK In addition to the spring-fed pool, the State Park features the Cienega Wetlands Restoration, a refuge for indigenous aquatic and amphibian life. Visitors can stay in San Solomon Springs Courts or at the campground. BALMORHEA LAKE T HE POOL maintains a constant temperature of 72-76ºF, making it an ideal spot for swimming or scuba diving excursions year-round. Canals channel the water along Highway 17 into Balmorhea (pronounced BAL-moray), where a charming city park flanks the watercourse. Once a stagecoach stop between Fort Stockton and Fort Davis, the Toyahvale Post Office was established in 1891. The drive from Fort Davis on Highway 17, through the scenic Davis Mountains and Wild Rose Pass, is one of the prettiest in the region. 62 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM Only two miles south of Balmorhea, on County Road 319 (Houston Street), this 600acre lake – stocked seasonally with a variety of fish – is a popular destination for birders. A $3 visitor fee is payable at the lake store. RV spaces and picnic areas are available. Swimming is not allowed. CALERA CHAPEL Mission Mary at Calera is located west of Toyahvale on Highway 290. The church, which served the area from around 1902 into the 1940s, was restored in 2002. TOYAHVALE DESERT OASIS The only outfitter by the park! Visit this fullservice dive shop for swim gear and to schedule scuba diving lessons in the crystal-clear waters of San Solomon Springs. Scuba and snorkeling gear rentals. Plus, all the supplies you’ll need to make your Balmorhea State Park visit fun, safe and memorable. WILL VAN OVERBEEK COURTESY TEXAS DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTATION The waters of San Solomon Springs surface at Toyahvale, where the 1.75-acre spring-fed swimming pool at Balmorhea State Park provides visitors with a welcome opportunity for refreshing recreation in the desert. The spring flows 22 to 28 million gallons of water per day. GUADALUPE MTS. Attractions ODESSA • GUADALUPE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK y Van Horn Enjoy one of the most beautiful drives in Texas en route to the stunning and varied landscapes of the Guadalupe Mountains. Just one hour north of Van Horn, this national park is home to the highest peak in the state – Guadalupe Peak at 8,749 feet. Enjoy a variety of hiking trails accessible year-round, historic sites and interpretive displays. See page 22 for much more information on Guadalupe Mountains National Park. www.nps.gov/gumo BIG BEND THE EL CAPITAN TO EL CAPITAN HERITAGE BIKE ROUTE A 55-mile ride along a scenic and historic route! Cyclists from all over are coming to ride Highway 54 between the Historic Hotel El Capitan and El Capitan Mountain in Guadalupe Mountains National Park. www.texasmountaintrail.com/bike. CLARK HOTEL MUSEUM Van Horn BETH NOBLES V Van Horn is the crossroads of the Texas Mountain Trail. AN HORN WAS established in 1881, when the Texas and Pacific Railway came through. Before that, it was a stopping point for travelers on the Old Spanish Trail and the San Antonio-El Paso Overland Mail route. Today, Van Horn is the county seat of Culberson County, sitting at the helm of the western portion of the region, almost exactly half- way between Fort Stockton and El Paso. Of the many area attractions, a large number of visitors to Van Horn are those heading up to Guadalupe Mountains National Park and on to Carlsbad Caverns just across the Texas/New Mexico border. Many choose to stay in the newly remodeled historic Hotel El Capitan, one of the Trost & Trost hotels that dot this part of the country. The El Capitan is a newly remodeled gem of historic architecture. Anyone interested in the historical aspects of West Texas will want to stop at the Clark Hotel Museum. Located in the historic hotel that once served railroad travelers, this museum features pioneer, Native American and railroad memorabilia. The Museum contains a stunning collection of artifacts reflecting the history of Van Horn and the surrounding area. There are displays showing the history of mining, ranching, the railroad, and other early activities, as well as personal items which belonged to members of early pioneer families who first settled here. It features an old western-style saloon with a mirrored back bar, which have been in the same room since the early 1900s. www.clarkhotelmuseum.com Lodging HOTEL EL CAPITAN 100 East Broadway (877) 283-1220 www.hotelelcapitan.net The Hotel El Capitan was built in 1930 based on designs by notable architect Henry Trost, of Trost & Trost of El Paso. After a $2.5 million renovation, the El Capitan is even more superb than in 1930. There are now 38 rooms and suites, a fine dining room and the Gopher Hole Bar. BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 63 Photography in the Big Bend Region I S IT ANY WONDER the Big Bend region draws photog- raphers from all corners? With its combination of desert and majestic landscapes, the dramatic canyons of the Rio Grande, the spectacularly eroded Chisos Mountains and remnants of pioneer ranch life, Big Bend presents a wealth of subjects to the photographic eye. Add early morning and late evening sunlight, summer thunderstorms and clear, star-spattered night skies, and the photographic opportunities are simply irresistible. Located in far West Texas, the region embraced by the big bend of the Rio Grande is one of the most remarkable areas in the country. It’s also one of the few places left in America where a person can almost literally get away from it all. Big Bend National Park is several hundred miles from any large city, and the 64 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM grandeur, remoteness, rich history and dramatic ecological diversity has created an almost mythic status with visitors who find their way there. This is a bold landscape with constantly changing views — a playground of light, rugged mountains, rolling desert hills and deep river canyons that create endless intrigue. Sunrise and sunset allow the opportunity to watch and photograph light dancing across the rock faces millions of years in age. In short, Big Bend offers photographers scenic opportunities not available elsewhere. In the following pages we will feature the photography of Marathon-based James Evans, whose famous far West Texas images are showcased in two of his books: Crazy from the Heat and Big Bend Pictures. In addition there are photos from various residents and travelers with their thoughts on shooting in the Big Bend region. Photography in the Big Bend Region IN DECEMBER 2013 I celebrated 25 years of living in and photographing Big Bend and West Texas. The decision for me to move here was the one of the best I’ve ever made. I am starting to know myself very well. It’s helping me grow into the kind of person I want to be and has opened the door to the kind of photography and art I want to explore. I never wanted to make photographs or books of the area like I had seen previously. What interested me from the beginning was the kind of person that chooses to live here and to photograph them in a way that captured that spirit. My first book, Big Bend Pictures took that concept into consideration more than the landscape. I am very proud of it, and it is currently in its third printing. My second book Crazy From The Heat explores my approach to making photographs, and that is simply whatever I find interesting that day. It’s a widely varied body of work. I try to keep my artistic mind open and it is important for me to keep challenging my abilities, and my comfort zone. This area provides me with more inspiration and ideas than I will ever be able to complete. I also process and print all of my own photographs. Half of the creative process is in the darkroom. I still print traditionally as well as digitally. I see my work as part documentary, part historian, and part artist, and hopefully it all intertwines and says something about me and the time I lived on the planet. – James Evans JAVELINA James Evans OCOTILLO AND STARS James Evans BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 65 Photography in the Big Bend Region TULE MOUNTAIN James Evans FIREFLIES James Evans RAIN James Evans 66 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM OPHELIA FALCON & JIM CARRICO James Evans When the Boquillas crossing was reopened last year Mike Long and Crystal Allbright brought Jim across the border to reunite with Ophelia. They had not seen each other since the closing after 911. SUNSET 1 James Evans BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 67 Photography in the Big Bend Region BIG SKY Big Bend National Park as the clouds roll in. I had to pull over and sit and enjoy the wide open beauty. Watching the clouds roll in out here is never boring, instead they make you feel alive. – Rachael Waller SIERRA DEL CARMEN Big Bend, for me, is the most soul-grabbing and naturally inspiring places to experience. This photo was taken on a camping trip with my two-year old daughter and our friends. It had been a long but amazing day of setting up tents so we headed for a soak in the Hot Springs that evening. We decided to pull over to watch the sunset. All of us are area locals but we were still in awe by Sierra del Carmen’s beauty.The vivid colors of the sky as the desert is preparing for the night is beyond captivating. The beauty here is everlasting and for that I am grateful.” – Natalie Pattillo BOQUILLAS One of my favorite day trips in the Big Bend region is to go across the border to Boquillas, Mexico. Accessible through Big Bend National Park, the border crossing was closed right after 9/11 and just reopened in April 2013. It’s a small community, but there are ample photo opportunities. This shot was actually taken with my phone. I was testing settings when I inadvertently started a panoramic shot. During the pan, the child sat down next to me and by the time he was in the frame he was blowing up the balloon. – Stewart Ramser 68 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM RIO BRAVO As a native of the state of New Hampshire we run from our northeastern winters. West Texas is a special destination point for us. West Texas in the form of Big Bend National Park provides a wonderful focal point for my photography: a way different color palette, mountains and mountain ranges, the desert, and a riparian (river) corridor. What more could one want! – Steve McKinney Texas Mountain Trail A TRAVELER’S BEST FRIEND PHOTOS THIS PAGE COURTESY BETH NOBLES T HE FIRST MORNING in the mountains is always the best. At dawn, you notice the pink glow in the sky. Hummingbirds hover above the prickly pear. Pronghorn graze. There’s a chill in the air, and it won’t warm up for a few more hours. On the porch of your casita, coffee in hand, the city melts away. Gone are the traffic jams, the deadlines, and stress. You’ve got quiet here. Adventure. Make the most of it. So unplug. Take the day at a slower pace. Smile and say hello to folks. This is our home; we love it here. And we’re eager to share it with you….that’s why we publish this guide. If this is your first visit, use it to craft your own personal escape in Big Bend, the Davis Mountains and beyond. If you’re a frequent visitor, we hope to inspire you with a new place to eat, stay, hike, explore. Our cities and small towns offer more than you might think. Our Texas Mountain Trail wants to introduce you to the encyclopedic charms of the wildest, most rugged, beautiful, peaceful, historic places in the country, and possibly the most purely Texan place in the state. We also want to connect you with the history our Texas Mountain Trail Daily Photo blog (www.texasmountaintrail.blogspot.com). We regularly post images of places you’ll want to visit, and experiences you’ll want to try. of our mountains, from the earliest geology to ancient rock art, to the Comanche and Buffalo Soldiers, to the adobe homes of early farmers along the Rio Grande. Explore our forts, our historic hotels, our county courthouses. MORE THAN HIKING Looking to explore the mountains on horseback? Hoping to find the best tacos in Far West Texas? Want to know which musicians are playing in the region? Check our website (www.texasmountaintrail.com) for information to help you plan your stay, as well as information about our work. And follow us on social media—on Facebook at (www.facebook. com/TexasMountainTrail), on Twitter @trailgirl, and Instagram at @texastrailgirl, and on FESTIVALS AND FUN We’ve got the only region-wide events calendar online, so when you’re planning your trip to the Texas Mountains, consult www. texasmountaintrail.com/events for the most up-to-date listings of festivals, performances, tours, and community events. Community members post events themselves, and everyone is invited to participate. So if you’re looking for what’s new in the Big Bend, and all the communities of Far West Texas, including our gateway cities, check our calendar online. BRING YOUR BIKE Whether you’re interested in a leisurely afterdinner ride in our charming small communities, or screaming down a challenging mountain trail, Far West Texas is one of the great places to ride your bike. We’ve added a cycling section to our website to help you plan your stay, from heritage bike routes to cycle-friendly hotels, and connections to road- and mountain biking resources. Explore it all at www.texasmountaintrail.com/bike. Are you looking for an easy ride for BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 69 FROM TOP: COURTESY BETH NOBLES, COURTESY VISITBIGBEND.COM the entire family? The quiet roads and charming neighborhoods of Marfa, Fort Davis, Alpine and Marathon are great places to explore by bicycle. Some communities and some hotel properties even offer bikes for rent. And our “Ride to the Post Heritage Bike Route” is an easy 10 mile roundtrip adventure with very little elevation gain that just about anyone can enjoy with ease…. perfect for a family adventure. The ride starts at the historic Gage Hotel in Marathon, down a quiet paved ranch road past geologic wonders, to Post Park, an old Buffalo Soldier encampment and an oasis for the Comanche and Apache, and early miners and settlers. Post Park is a great place to relax, watch the birds and wildlife and enjoy the quiet of the mountains. Are you looking for challenge? Road cyclists might tackle Fort Davis’ 74 mile Scenic Loop past famed McDonald Observatory, or our “El Capitan to El Capitan Heritage Bike Route” from Van Horn to the base of Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Three state parks in our region offer terrific mountain biking opportunities, including Big Bend Ranch State Park, which is rated as an EPIC ride by the International Mountain Bicycling Association. One of only 44 trails worldwide earning this designation, the park’s Sauceda Loop offers highly technical sections on single-track, old 4x4 and jeep roads, as well as easier sections alongside historic routes, old cinnabar mines, ancient rock art, and old homesteads. There’s a select group of historic hotels, tourist camps, bed and breakfasts, resorts and chain motels ready to provide special services to cyclists through our Texas Mountain Trail cycle-friendly hotels program. They allow you to park your bike inside your room, and may offer other services from packed lunches for your day on the road, to sag services, updated weather information and more. We also work to support our communities. This year, our Texas Mountain Trail teamed with local cyclists and another non-profit organization to promote reading and safe cycling, and distributed free books for schoolchildren in Terlingua/Study Butte, Fort Davis, Alpine and Dell City. RECOGNIZING OUR HEROES One of our biggest joys is to recognize the special people who go above and beyond to make sure our travelers expe- JOIN US When you join as a member of the Texas Mountain Trail, you bring even more value to the region through heritage and adventure projects like the Far West Texas Wildlife Trail, the Peak Fitness Challenge, heritage bike routes, cycle-friendly activities, heritage storytelling projects and support for visitors and our mountain communities. And since we’re a 501 c 3 non-profit, your membership is tax-deductible! How to join? Click the “Donate” link at the upper right of our homepage, www. texasmountaintrail.com! rience the best of our region. Our Texas Mountain Trail Hospitality Heroes program was inspired by Van Horn resident, Ralph Gilmore, who “never met a stranger” and provided exemplary service at his Crossroads Coffee Shop. Ralph is still serving travelers as the General Manager of the historic Hotel El Capitan, where his friendliness continues to impress visitors. Our honor roll of Hospitality Heroes includes: · Ralph Gilmore, Van Horn, Crossroads Coffee Shop, now at the Hotel El Capitan for exemplary service and friendliness to travelers · The City of Van Horn (City, County, School District, EMS/Hospital, Fire Department employees) and local Texas Department of Transportation employees for service to travelers when I-10 closes in bad weather · Hyatt Place El Paso Airport for exemplary service to travelers and to the development of our Texas Mountain Trail and the region, including our cycle-friendly hotels program · Bill Blaziek, retiring General Manager of the El Paso Convention and Visitors Bureau for his years of service to the region ·Glennda Merritt-Alcorn, Hudspeth County EMS, for her leadership in upgrading emergency services in Hudspeth County · Marfa Public Radio, for life-saving coverage during the 2011 wildfires · Barrett Durst and the staff of Big Bend Ranch State Park for exemplary care of visitors during inclement weather · State Representative Dee Margo for championing preservation and heritage programming in Texas, including the Texas Heritage Trails program This year, three more awards will be presented to: · Larry Staton, of Big Bend Resort and Adventures, for unfailing support of our Texas Mountain Trail programs · Don Baumgardt, of Pinata Publishing, the El Paso Visitors Guide, and GeoBetty.com for support of our Peak Fitness Challenge and adventure tourism in the region · Compadres Del Ranch Grande, the friends organization of Big Bend Ranch State Park, for support of the award-winning El Solitario newsletter Now that we’re friends, we hope you’ll keep in touch with the mountains through our website, (www.texasmountaintrail.com) and our social media communities on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. Mostly, we hope our Big Bend and Texas Mountain Travel Guide inspires you to head our way again, with all new adventures planned to explore every corner of Far West Texas. FIND US www.texasmountaintrail.com www.facebook.com/ TexasMountainTrail www.twitter.com/trailgirl www.instagram.com/ texastrailgirl http://www.youtube.com/user/ TMTrail Special features: www.issuu.com/trailgirl BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM 71 Last Look Fort Davis native Glenn Moreland prepares an authentic cowboy breakfast on the grounds of the Fort Davis National Historic Site. The Fort, with the Davis Mountains in the background, is a picture-perfect location for an early morning dining experience. 72 BIGBENDTRAVELGUIDE.COM STEVE McKINNEY Rise and Shine