My Italy by camper Guide

Transcription

Maych
My Italy by camper Guide
Cannes, Kocevje, Milan, Bari, Montpellier, Barcelona, Pompeii, Nice, Marseilles,
Naples, Florence, Monaco Cedex, Pisa, Andorra la Vella, Rome, Verona, Amalfi, 15
Days
Table of contents:
Itinerary Overview 3
Daily Itineraries 9
My List 68
Cannes Snapshot 69
Milan Snapshot 75
Montpellier Snapshot 82
Barcelona Snapshot 87
Pompeii Snapshot 93
Nice Snapshot 95
Marseilles Snapshot 103
Naples Snapshot 108
Florence Snapshot 118
Monaco Cedex Snapshot 126
Pisa Snapshot 130
Rome Snapshot 134
Verona Snapshot 139
1
Amalfi Snapshot 144
2
things to do
restaurants
hotels
nightlife
Itinerary Overview
Day 1 - Bari, Amalfi, Naples,
Pompeii
DAY NOTE: http://www.hymerclubitalia.it/aree_sosta/
area_sosta_agnano_na.html camp povrzan so transport do
centar. 7 eura/den. 9km do Napoli Agnano Astroni 24
.
http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?
numid=8472&Localit%E9=NAPOLI Latitude (North) 40.8704
Decimal ° or 40 ° 52 '13.44' Viale Colli Aminei 27' -.
We used this car in July 2009 to visit Naples. It's very convenient,
secure (guarded), not noisy and can be draining and full of water
without problems. For two nights we paid 44 €. Bus stop outside
the park (line R 4 for the downtown and the Archaeological
Museum).
B & B Michelangelo Bari
Forum
Where Romans gathered
Apollo Temple
Greek and Roman influences
Pompeii Archaeological Areas
The World's Most Famous Ruins
Sea Gate
The most famous entrance to the city
Day 2 - Naples
Castel Sant'Elmo
Re-Live the Past
Duomo (Cathedral of Sant' Andrea)
One of the most stunning churches in Southern Italy
Palazzo Reale
Royal Palace of Naples
Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino)
Historic Castle situated on the Bay of Naples
Certosa di San Martino
Carthusian Monastery & Museum with breathtaking
city views
Villa Floridiana (La)
The Villa in the Woods
Ischia
The Green Island
Piazza Plebiscito
The beating heart of Naples & largest square in the
city
Fontana dell'Immacolatella (La)
Fountain on the Seafront
Church of Santa Chiara and Museum
Beautiful Gothic church in historic center of Naples
Piazza Bellini
Busy and fun piazza in center of Naples
Statue of the Nile
15th-Century Statue
Duomo of San Gennaro
Gorgeous and historic Cathedral of Naples
Day 3 - Rome
DAY NOTE: http://www.campingtiber.com ASCI
.
http://www.villageflaminio.com vo centarot na Rim 43 eura
.
http://www.ecvacanze.it/it/proprieta.php?idp=42 isto vo centarot
43 eura
.
http://www.romaincamper.it/finesettimanaGB.html-turist guide
.
http://www.happycamping.net/ nadvor od krugot ASCI ama
naplakaat i ekstra
.
http://www.ecvacanze.it/it/facilities.php?idp=42&tf=Dove
+Siamo&tfx=4&f=1 na krugot na RIM
.
http://www.caravanecamper.it/aree_doc/aree_show.php?
amp;id=175&regione=Lazio&id=77 besplaten 45km od
rim na ring road
.
http://www.parkingleterrazze.it/strutt.shtml
.
address: via di fioranello 170, roma 15E den ima i mesto za
rucavanje i igraliste za deca. se naoga na krugot
3
things to do
restaurants
hotels
nightlife
Itinerary Overview
.
Area di sosta - Prato Smeraldo-Via di Tor Pagnotta, 424 (angolo
Via Ardeatina) - 00143 - Roma 16 eura vo krugot
.
Latitude: 42 ° 01 '52.01''North - Longitude: 12 ° 02' East''00:36
camp Sasso prema pisa 10 EURA nok
.
http://www.atac.roma.it/index.asp?p=14 -3 dneven pass 11 eura,
eden den 4 eura
со плоштадот Св. Петар, Ватиканскиот музеј и Сиктинската
капел
Piazza Navona
Rome's Favorite Piazza
Villa Borghese
Piazza Venezia
Historic balcony
Centro Storico
The heart of Rome
Arco di Costantino
Tribute to Constantine
The Colosseum (Colosseo)
Ancient Rome's largest fighting arena
Palatine (The)
Ancient Rome's residential area for kings, senators,
patricians and emperors
San Giovanni in Laterano
A park for the Romans
Spanish Steps
Rome's most popular meeting place
Piazza di Spagna
Meeting at the Steps
Via Margutta
The Montmartre of Rome
Barcaccia Fountain (La)
Sprinkling Life
Piazza della Repubblica
The centre of the baths
The oldest church in the world
Domus Aurea
Ambitious project
Roman Forum
Famous Roman Forum
Santa Maria d'Aracoeli
The stairway of hope
Piazza del Campidoglio
Michelangelo's idea
Day 5 - Rome
Sistine Chapel
Michelangelo's Masterpiece at the Vatican
Via della Conciliazione
All obstacles removed
Basilica di San Pietro (St. Peter's
Basilica)
The home of Catholicism
Musei Vaticani (Vatican Museums)
Day 4 - Rome
DAY NOTE: Римскиот форум,
.
Колосеумот, Базиликата Св. Климент, Палатата на правдата,
Замокот Св. Анѓело, Капитол и
.
Капитолскиот музеј, плоштадот Венеција, Триумфалната арка
и др. Факултативна посета на Ватикан
.
Filled with masterpieces
Day 6 - Florence, Pisa
DAY NOTE: http://www.campingitalia.net/dove_siamo.php 20km
od Pisa camp 15 eura super ACSI
.
numid=5150&Localit%E9=PISA&Pays=ITALIE 12 eura
4
things to do
restaurants
hotels
nightlife
Itinerary Overview
vo gradot Istiot od gore review 12 eura i siguren dobri komentari
i moze da se noceva, parking-nema drva, GPS: N 43,72861 - E
10,39167,addressc2 Via Pietrasantina
.
Плоштадот Синориња, крстилницата Сан Џовани
.
Палатата и мостот Векио, катедралата Санта Мариа дел
Фиори
Cappelle Medicee (Medici Chapels)
The chapel started by Michelangelo and finished by
Vasari.
Ponte Vecchio
The Ponte Vecchio(Old Bridge)now has many gold
and silver shops.
Piazzale Michelangelo
Fantastic view over the city and the hills of Tuscany.
Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria dei
Fiori)
The Duomo was completed by Brunelleschi with the
thought to upstage Siena and Pisa's Duomos.
Gallerie degli Uffizi (Uffizi Galleries)
The works of Giotto, Da Vinci, Lippi and Botticelli and
are among the famous painters you will view.
Day 7 - Monaco Cedex
DAY NOTE: http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?
numid=1299&Localit%E9=SAN%20REMO 7 do 10 eura za
24 h na pat za monako, odma do golem camp, address Corso
Guglielmo Marconi SP1
.
Località PIAN DI POMA
.
18038 SAN REMO (IM)
.
numid=5645&Localit%E9=MONACO parking vo centar na
Monaco ne moze da se spie
.
смена на стража, Кнежевската Палата, катедралата
Св.Никола
.
со гробницата на Грејс Кели и Принцот Рение,Океанографски
музеј. По Формула 1 патеката се спуштаме до
.
Монте Карло:посета на познатите коцкарници во Монте Карло
Museo Galileo (Science Museum)
Galileo famous instruments are on display here.
Jardin Exotique
Palazzo Vecchio (Museo)
The house of the Medici family for many years.
Museo Salvatore Ferragamo
The famous Ferragamo shoe: a woman's dream.
Parco di Pinocchio
This park is created with masterpieces from the
Adventures of Pinocchio story.
Piazza dei Miracoli
Miracles Square
Pisa City Hop-on Hop-off Tour
Hop-on Hop-off Tours
Palazzo Pitti & Giardino Boboli (Pitti
Palace & Boboli Gardens)
The residence of Cosimo de'Medici's wife Elenora.
Galleria dell'Accademia (Academy
Gallery)
Your portal to everything Michelangelo completed
and rare unfinished sculptures.
Day 8 - Montpellier, Barcelona
DAY NOTE: 41º 35' 27" / 2º 35' 30" Globo rojo 30km od
Barcelona 27 EUR http://www.globo-rojo.com
.
http://campingmasnou.com.es/ 11km od barcelona super
povrzano so gradot cena?- najblisku do Barcelona
.
http://www.campingestrellademar.es/ing/contact.html
.
http://english.autocaravanasdelsol.es/sanistation-formotorhomes.htm
.
http://www.tmb.cat/en_US/barcelona/moute/targetes/3_dies.jsp
za kupuvanje karta - za 3 dena 16.5 EUR
.
http://www.areasac.es/v_portal/apartados/pl_basica.asp?te=402
pich stop vo gradot
.
http://www.campingelvedado.com/01_camping.php nadvor od
Barcelona ima bus do centarot
.
http://www.rentocamp.com
.
Булеварот Диагонал, Саграда Фамилија, улицатаРамблас,
.
Универзитетот, бизнис квартот, готската четврт, стадионот Ноу
Камп, Националната палата,
5
things to do
restaurants
hotels
nightlife
Itinerary Overview
.
Колумбовиот споменик, шпанско село, плоштадите
Каталонија Шпанија, Музејот на Пикасо
Casa Lleó Morera
Art Deco & Ornamentation
Dinosaur park near Montpellier, fun for all the family.
Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya
(MNAC)
La Sagrada Família
Casa Amatller
Palau Güell
Casa Batlló
Fundació Joan Miró
Museu d´Història de la Ciutat
Las Ramblas
Muralles Romanes
Plaine des Dinosaures (La)
Gaudí's Most Important Work
One of Gaudí's First Works
Barcelona's busiest walkway. Sprinkled with street
vendors and innovative performers.
Casa Museu Gaudí
Gaudi's house. Exquisite piece of modernist history
nestled in Park Guell. Easily appreciated from the
outside.
Girona and Costa Brava Small Group
Day Trip from Barcelona
Day Trips. Beautiful coastal towns. Breathtaking
architecture.
Barri Gòtic
The Medieval Heart of the City. Home to Gaudi's
Cathedral. A mix of grunge and authenticity, these
narrow alleyways will easily get you lost.
Arc de Triomf
Large brick archway. Entry for '88 Expo. Gateway to
Ciutadella Park.
Catedral La Seu
The Best Romanesque Art
Modernist Masterpiece
Architectural Acid Trip
Barcelona's evolution. An underground city rich with
Roman ruins.
Remains of the Roman city. Close to trendy, cozy
cafes.
Casa Milà
Largest abstract sculpture building in the world.
Gaudi's unique design.
Day 9 - Barcelona
Magic Fountain
Choreographed, dancing water fountain show. Night
of entertainment for adults and children.
Parc d'Atraccions (Tibidabo)
Fun Day
Jardins de Mossèn Costa I Llobera
Garden Paradise. Exotic and mediterranean plants.
Relaxing place for leisurely stroll or afternoon picnic.
Key to Barcelona's history. String of intricate chapels
lines the interior. Central Gothic Quarter, historical
must see.
Casa Vicens
Poble Espanyol
Camp Nou
Rambla de Canaletes (La)
Plaça Espanya
The Magical Fountain
Antoni Gaudi's First Work
Home Of The Catalans
Large, bustling square. Hosts famous magic fountain
show. Near Montjuic tennis club.
Plaça Reial
A Very Lively Square
6
things to do
restaurants
hotels
nightlife
Itinerary Overview
Parc Güell
Escalier de la gare Saint-Charles
Plaça Catalunya
Cathédrale de la Major (Basilique
Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure)
Gaudi's architectural genius. Small oasis. Romantic
and relaxing.
Barcelona's main square. Dividing old city from new.
Excellent meeting spot.
Day 10 - Barcelona, Andorra la
Vella, Marseilles
Parc de la Ciutadella
Home of the Universal Exhibition of 1888
Port Olímpic
Beachside nightlife, daytime water sports. Created
for the 1982 Olympic Games.
Museu Picasso
Picasso's Early Work
Montserrat, Gaudi and Modernism Small
Group Day Trip from Barcelona
Stunning scenery and iconic art. Spiritual mountain
day trip.
Aigüestortes i Estany de St Maurici
National Park, 25597 Espot
Architectural Emblem
Imposing Splendor
Palais Longchamp
A watery kingdom
Palau Sant Jordi
Multipurpose complex. Main venue during '92
Olympics. Close to bustling Placa Espanya.
Day 11 - Cannes, Nice
DAY NOTE: http://www.campingrossignol.com/content/gb/area/6/
18 eura camp, address 2074 av. Michard Pelissier
.
06600 Antibes
.
: Шеталиштето ла Кроазет, Филмската палата,
.
плажата на фотомодели, Авенијата на палатите. Посета на
фабриката за парфеми Фрагонард-Галимард во ЕЗЕ
Notre-Dame d'Espérance
Provençal Gothic Church
Cannes Film Festival
Mémorial des Rapatriés
Unique Sculpture
Arc de Triomphe de la Porte d'Aix
Gateway to the city
Fontaine Castellane
Ode to Water
Fort Saint-Jean
Fortifying The Town
Hotel de Cabre
The Oldest House in Marseilles
Statue du David (La)
Calao Plage
Party on the Beach
Jardin d'Eden
Artistic Viewpoint
Promenade des Anglais
Nice's Famed Promenade
Jardin Albert Ier
Garden of Delights
Galerie du Carlton
Paintings, Sculptures & Glassware
Copy of Michelangelo's "David"
7
things to do
restaurants
hotels
nightlife
Itinerary Overview
Colline du Château
Popular Park in the Heart of the City
Croisette (La)
Longitude (East) Decimal 10.97787 ° or 10 ° 58 '40,332''
.
. Разгледување и прошетка низ плоштадите „Бра” и „Ебре”
.
и Делсињори”, куќата на Јулија и гробот на Ромео, гробовите
на фамилијата Скала
Seaside Promenade
Portoni della Bra
Day 12 - Milan
DAY NOTE: http://www.campingamicidilazise.it/camper_stop.htm
- Lago di garda 25 eura
.
http://www.camperonline.it/area_di_sosta_dettaglio.asp?ID=3495
Lazgo di garda odma do nekoj kamp i do avtoptot GPS:45.44136
N - 10.67848 E
.
Porta Ticinese
Triumphal Neo-Classical gateway
Palace of Giureconsulti
Magistrate's palace
Teatro alla Scala
Entrance to the Arena
Piazza dei Signori
The Heart of the City
Fontana di Madonna Verona
Symbol of the City
Ponte della Pietra
Bridge on Via Postumia
Casa di Giulietta
A Romantic Balcony
Piazza delle Erbe
Focal Point of Urban Life
Internationally Renowned Opera House
Casa degli Omenoni
19th Century house
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Day 14 - Kocevje
Terme Catez D.D. Catez Ob Savi
Cafes and cute shops line the avenues
Fontana di Piazza San Babila
A garden with water & stones
Palazzo Serbelloni
Cantoni's masterpiece
Porta Venezia
Asian-Influenced Gateway to Milan
Day 13 - Verona
DAY NOTE: http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?
numid=5014&Localit%E9=VERONA&Pays=ITALIE 10
eura nok piych stop vo gradot ima ubavi komentari GRS:Latitude
(North) Decimal 45.43439 ° or 45 ° 26 '3804''
.
8
Day 1 - Bari, Amalfi, Naples, Pompeii
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: http://www.hymerclubitalia.it/aree_sosta/area_sosta_agnano_na.html camp povrzan so transport do centar. 7 eura/den. 9km
do Napoli Agnano Astroni 24
.
http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?numid=8472&Localit%E9=NAPOLI Latitude (North) 40.8704 Decimal ° or 40 °
52 '13.44' Viale Colli Aminei 27' -.
We used this car in July 2009 to visit Naples. It's very convenient, secure (guarded), not noisy and can be draining and full of water
without problems. For two nights we paid 44 €. Bus stop outside the park (line R 4 for the downtown and the Archaeological Museum).
contact:
1 B & B Michelangelo Bari
http://www.bedandbreakfast.c
om/italy-bari-bbmichelangelob
ari-page.html
DESCRIPTION: B & B Michelangelo is located in a safe and
location:
Stradella Barone 12 district
San Pasquale
Bari 70125
contact:
tel: 089 871 059
location:
Piazza Duomo
Amalfi 84011
hours:
Duomo: Daily Nov-Feb
10am-1pm and 2:30-4:30pm;
Mar and Oct 9:30am-5:15pm;
Apr-June 9am-7pm; JulySept 9am-9pm. Museum
and cloister: Daily JuneOct 9:30am-7pm; Nov-May
9:30am-5:15pm
renowned residential district. Is perfect if you want to leave
your car and walk in the city (see google map). Is ideal also for
women travelling alone. Close to the Politechnical University,
the Russian Church, the Police Station, the Executive Centre,
the 2 Giugno Park, the Giovanni XXIII Hospital, the Mater
Dei Hospital. Two minutes far from the main highway for
Taranto-Brindisi-Lecce and the Airport and Seaport. You'll find
confortable rooms in a friendly and elegant "tavernetta" (ground
floor of a villa) with a wide library. At a few steps you'll find
Restaurants , Disco Pubs, Lounge caffè, banks, and shops.
Smoking is not allowed.
more at BedandBreakfast.com
2 Duomo (Cathedral of Sant'
Andrea)
OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS:
Although that staircase may look intimidating, don't
miss visiting the Cloister of Paradise, museum and
crypt of Sant' Andrea inside the Duomo.
DESCRIPTION: This superb example of Arab-Norman
architecture goes back to the 9th century, when the Republic
of Amalfi was just gaining success. The majestic facade is
decorated with a mosaic of gold leaf and majolica, with a
magnificent 11th-century bronze door made in Constantinople
closing the main portal. The lovely Romanesque bell tower was
finished in 1276. The Duomo was enlarged between the 16th
and 18th centuries, when it was also given a baroque interior
together with the majestic, imposing staircase leading to a
beautiful atrium in black-and-white marble. It was renovated
in 1891 and further restored in 1929, with respect for the
13th-century structures. To the left of the Duomo is the
breathtakingly beautiful cloister, the Chiostro del Paradiso,
dating from 1266. The cloister, in Arab-Sicilian style, is
decorated with interlaced arches over double columns, and
was originally built as the cemetery for the city's religious and
political elite. The site now holds a small museum with ancient
Laura Thayer
9
Day 1 - continued...
Roman and medieval artifacts. Among the best pieces are the
Roman sarcophagus of Ottavio Rufo, richly carved, and two
other sarcophagi, also decorated with bas-reliefs. From the
cloister you can gain access to the Chiesa del Crocifisso,
the original cathedral of Amalfi dating from the 10th century,
where other artworks are conserved. July through September,
concerts are held in the cloister on Friday nights (later in this
chapter). From the right nave of this church you can descend
to the Crypt, the repository for the remains of the apostle St.
Andrew, the protector saint of Amalfi. The crypt was built in
the 13th century, when the remains of the saint were brought
back from the 4th Crusade; it was redecorated in 1719. An
interesting detail is that Andrew's face is missing -- it was
donated to the church of St. Andrew's in Patras, Greece. Over
the main altar is the beautiful bronze Statue of Sant'Andrea by
Michelangelo Naccherino. © Frommer's
contact:
tel: +39 081 580 0421
fax: +39 081 580 0870
http://preale.baa.remuna.org/
location:
Piazza del Plebiscito 1
Naples 80133
hours:
Thurs-Tues 9am-8pm. Ticket
booth closes 1 hr. earlier
3 Palazzo Reale
Don't miss the grand 18th-century presepe in the
Palazzo Reale.
DESCRIPTION: This imposing palace was designed by
Domenico Fontana and built in 2 years, from 1600 to 1602,
for the Spanish king Filippo III. Ironically, he never made it to
Naples, and the castle was used by later kings who enlarged
it in the 18th century. Luigi Vanvitelli worked on the facade,
closing some of the arches to strengthen the walls and creating
niches that were filled in 1888 by Umberto I, king of Italy, with
eight statues of Neapolitan kings. Badly damaged during World
War II, the building has been completely restored. Today, you
can admire much of the interior, and we recommend doing
so by guided tour to get a full appreciation of the sprawling
place. The Royal Apartment occupies one half of the palace,
and is still furnished with the original furniture plus a number
of masterpieces taken from Neapolitan churches that have
closed. From the elegant Cortile d'Onore (Court of Honor)
the double ramp of the main staircase leads to the first floor and
the Teatrino di Corte, the private "home theater" of the royal
family. Continuing through, you enter the semi-public rooms,
including the Throne Room. Beyond the corner begins the
Private Appartment, where the kings lived until 1837, when
a fire obliged them to move upstairs. Its rooms open onto the
manicured elevated gardens, affording beautiful views over
the Gulf. Decorated with colored marble, tapestries, frescoes,
and 19th-century furniture, the rooms are quite splendid,
especially the beautifully furnished Studio del Re (King's
Study), where you can admire a desk and two secretaires
made for Napoleon Bonaparte by Adam Weisweiler. The
following room contains two paintings -- San Gennaro and a
Crucifixion -- by Luca Giordano, and two paintings by Andrea
Vaccaro. From here on, colorfully stenciled doors lead through
a seemingly endless array of rooms, most with 18th-century
white and gilt original ceilings, marble floors, and dozens of
paintings. The magnificent Hall of Hercules, the ballroom,
wcities
10
is hung with Neapolitan tapestries and decorated with some
beautiful Sèvres vases. The chapel, Cappella Palatina, is
worth a visit for its carved wooden doors dating from the 16th
century, its beautiful baroque marble altar by Dionisio Lazzari,
with inlays of lapis lazuli, agate, amethyst, and gilt, and the
splendid 18th-century Presepio del Banco di Napoli (Manger
Scene). One of the best examples of this art, the altar includes
many figures carved by great Neapolitan sculptors of the time.
The other half of the palace contains the reception wing: the
Appartamento delle Feste, with elegant rooms dedicated to
public celebrations and festivities. It is now, together with the
second floor, occupied by the Biblioteca Nazionale di Vittorio
Emanuele III, the library which was originally established by
Charles de Bourbon. Accessible from a separate entrance on
the ground floor, the library is one of the greatest in the south,
with about two million volumes (including 32,950 manuscripts,
4,563 incunabula, and 1,752 papyrus manuscripts from
Herculaneum). © Frommer's
MY NOTE: 5,5 Eura vleznica
contact:
tel: +39 081 795 2003
http://castnovo.napolibenicult
urali.it/
location:
Piazza Municipio 64
Naples 80133
location:
Piazza Plebiscito
Naples
4 Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino)
DESCRIPTION: Also known as the Castel Nuovo, the Maschio
Angioino is a huge fortress built by the French Angevins
during the 13th Century. The castle features 14th and 15th
Century sculptures and frescoes as well as the Museo
Civico. The courtyard highlights the Palatine Chapel and
the Apartment of the Viceroys. Once a prime political and
cultural venue in Napels, Castel Nuovo is now a popular
tourist attraction and filming location for portions of Pier Paolo
Pasolini's"Il Decameron" (1971) and "The Gospel According to
St Matthew" (1964). © wcities.com
wcities
5 Piazza Plebiscito
DESCRIPTION: Formerly called Largo di Palazzo, as location
of the royal seat, many festivals took place here that animated
Naples. The current name of the square refers to the plebiscite
of 1860, when the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies consented to
the annexation to the Italian state. In the 17th Century, the
square was renovated, but Napoleon brought about more
radical and glorious changes to the square in the 19th Century
that gave it the allure that remains unchanged today. The
suffocating buildings were demolished and in their place, two
prestigious facilities were built: the palace of the prefecture
and the Palace of Salerno. Murat built thirty imposing Doric
columns that make a perfect semicircle; at the center of the
colonnades stands the basilica of San Francesco di Paola,
commissioned by Ferdinand I. At the center of the square, there
are two equestrian statues of Charles III of Bourbon and of
Ferdinand I. The first is signed by Antonio Canova, the second
by Antonio Calì. Today, Piazza Plebiscito, for its vast size and
wcities
11
beauty, remains the preferred set of many of Naples grand
events. © wcities.com
contact:
tel: +39 081 252 5711
location:
Via Nazario Sauro
Naples 80132
contact:
tel: +39 081 552 6280 / +39
081 552 1597 / +39 081 558
3298
fax: +39 081 552 1597 / +39
081 558 3298
http://www.santachiara.info
location:
Via Santa Chiara 49
Naples 80134
hours:
Thurs-Tues 9:30am-1pm and
4-6pm; Sun 9am-1pm
6 Fontana dell'Immacolatella (La)
DESCRIPTION: You will find the Fontana dell'Immacolatella on the
seafront, where Via Nazario Sauro and Via Partenope meet. It was
constructed by Michelangelo Naccherino and Pietro Bernini in 1601.
The fountain has been constructed from white and gray marble and has
a basin with a curvilinear rim decorated with eagles and coats of arms
and friezes on the outside. Three arches supported by columns define
the structure of the fountain - the central one houses the fountain itself
which is in the form of a chalice held up by sea creatures. The enchanting
view of the gulf of Naples, dominated by the Vesuvius, with the Lattari
Mountains beneath, completes the magnificent panorama around this
pretty fountain. © wcities.com
wcities
7 Church of Santa Chiara and Museum
Be sure to visit peaceful cloister with remarkable majolica tile
decorations
DESCRIPTION: The most famous basilica in Naples, this church was built
in 1310 by king Roberto I d'Angió as the burial church for the Angevin
dynasty. In the 18th century, it was lavishly decorated by the best artists of
the time, but bombings in 1943 destroyed much of the art. A subsequent
restoration in 1953 brought it back to its original Gothic structure. A large
rose window decorates the facade, flanked by a majestic bell tower that
dominates the neighborhood (its lower part is 14th century). The interior is
simple but monumental in size, with 10 chapels opening onto the central
nave. It contains many royal tombs, including the grandiose tomb of
Roberto d'Angió, a magnificent example of Tuscan-style Renaissance
sculpture. From the sacristy you can access the Coro delle Clarisse
(Choir of the Clares), with its beautiful 14th-century marble portal.
The nuns sat in the coro during Mass, protected from the public; only
fragments remain, sadly, of Giotto's frescoes that decorated its walls. After
your visit to the basilica, walk behind the church and enter the door to
the right: It leads to the unique Chiostro delle Clarisse, the monastery's
main cloister. Strikingly decorated with bright majolica tiles in the mid-18th
century, it is considered a masterpiece of Neapolitan art. The spaces
adjacent to the cloister house a museum, the Museo dell'Opera di Santa
Chiara, dedicated to the history of the monastery and attached basilica.
It exhibits sculptures and reliefs by local artists, including a beautiful
Crucifiction and a Visitation, both by Tino di Camaino; it also gives access
to the excavations of thermal baths from the 1st or 2nd century A.D. ©
Frommer's
wcities
12
location:
Piazza Vincenzo Bellini
Naples 80135
8 Piazza Bellini
This piazza is a popular nightlife spot in Naples.
DESCRIPTION: The piazza was developed over several years
and serves as one of the the boundaries to the Greco-Roman
city. At the center of the piazza, you will see the remains of
a wall dating back to the 4th Century B.C. which runs down
what is now the Via Constantinopoli, towards the Piazza San
Domenico. The whole complex came into being between the
end of the seventeenth century and 1730. The palace itself was
built in the sixteenth century for the princes of Saint Agatha,
and was re-structured in the mid-seventeenth century. It now
houses the ARIN offices. The piazza is host to a number of
restaurants and bars which make a pleasant stop-off point both
during the day and at night. © wcities.com
location:
Piazzetta Nilo
Naples 80134
9 Statue of the Nile
DESCRIPTION: The corner of Piazzetta Nilo, part of the Largo
Corpo di Napoli, was created in the mid 15th century after the
demolition of the building known as the seat of the Nile. The
name of the street is inspired by the statue (probably dating
from Roman times), which represents the reclining figure of
the river god Nile. Once the merchants had left, their deity was
buried and forgotten about. It re-emerged towards the midtwelfth century, missing its head, and was used to decorate
first the seat and then the road to which it gave its name. ©
wcities.com
contact:
tel: +39 081 44 9097
http://www.duomodinapoli.it/
location:
Via Duomo
Naples 80138
rfarmer
wcities
A Duomo of San Gennaro
One of the must-see churches in Naples, be sure to visit the
archaeological excavations beneath the church.
DESCRIPTION: Built in the Gothic style at the end of the 13th Century
upon the wish of Carlo II d'Angio, the Duomo di San Gennaro sits on
the site of the old cathedral Stafania. It has been subjected to numerous
restoration works in the subsequent centuries, and the facade has been
restructured significantly during the restoration work carried out following
the earthquake of 1349. The three portals of Antonio Baboccio survived
from the original structure. Under the second arcade on the left side of the
central nave there is a baptismal font which is made of an Egyptian basalt
basin decorated with Bacchic masks and on the upper parts from 1618
there is multi-colored marble. The 18th century organs and the episcopal
throne are under the last two arcades of the central nave. © wcities.com
wcities
13
location:
Pompeii
Forum
DESCRIPTION: Pompeii's Forum is an impressive central
square with a surprising number of well-preserved facades,
statues, and architectural relics. From here you have a direct
view to the Vesuvius volcano, and can easily imagine just how
exposed the city was to nature's wrath. © Josh
.
location:
Pompeii
Apollo Temple
DESCRIPTION: Many of Pompeii's famous structures,
like Apollo's Temple, show a mixture of Greek and Roman
influences, with classical columns laid out in a geometric
pattern paying homage to the gods. © Josh
.
contact:
http://www.pompeiisites.org/
location:
Via Villa dei Misteri
Pompeii 80045
B Pompeii Archaeological Areas
DESCRIPTION: Owing to the eruption of volcano Mount Vesuvius in
79 AD many Roman cities and towns were buried. In the modern age,
these partially buried regions were re-discovered, and the Archaeological
Areas of Pompeii is one such treasure. Herculaneum, Pompeii and Torre
Annunziata were completely lost for nearly 1500 years. Declared as a
World Heritage Site by UNESCO it attracts tourists, archaeologists and
geology students from all over. A visit to the excavations gives you a pretty
good idea of what life must have been like here two thousand years ago.
Truly, a must visit for history lovers! © wcities.com
wcities
location:
Pompeii
Sea Gate
DESCRIPTION: The Sea Gate, so named given its location on
the western side of the city facing the sea, is the place where
most visitors will enter the ruins. You'll see an impressive array
of preserved and restored facades, walls, and structures. ©
Josh
.
14
Day 2 - Naples
QUICK NOTE
contact:
tel: +39 081 229 4401
fax: +39 081 229 4498
www.musis.it
location:
Via Tito Angelini 20
Naples 80129
hours:
Thurs-Tues 8:30am-7:30pm.
Ticket booth closes 1 hr.
earlier
contact:
tel: +39 081 578 1769
fax: +39 081 578 1769
http://museosanmartino.camp
aniabeniculturali.it/
location:
Largo San Martino 5
Naples 80129
1 Castel Sant'Elmo
DESCRIPTION: Located up the hill of the Vomero, near the
Certosa di San Martino, this majestic star-shaped construction,
with its six points and several moats, is visible from everywhere
in the city. It was originally built by the Angevins in 1329 and
called Belforte, then was remade into the present fortress by
Viceroy Pedro Toledo in the 16th century. Used as a prison
during the Masaniello revolution in 1799, it has been recently
restored and now houses special exhibits. You can visit the
prisons and the terraces, which offer great views over Naples
and the bay. © Frommer's
wcities
2 Certosa di San Martino
DESCRIPTION: Built as a monastery in the 14th Century, the Museo e la
Certosa di San Martino building lay in ruins till it was reconstructed in the
17th century in the baroque style. San Martino Museum has collections
that range from historic documents, ship replicas, porcelain, silver to
paintings, sculptures, cribs (they have over 600 of them), and minor arts. It
also contains important paintings of Neapolitan from the 16th-17th century.
Close by is the Castle and the fortress of Elmo. This is the most visible
landmark in Naples, for it is built atop the Vomero Hill that overlooks the
gulf.  © wcities.com
wcities
location:
Via Aniello Falcone 171
Naples 80055
3 Villa Floridiana (La)
DESCRIPTION: The hilly Vomero district is easily reached from the center
by taking the cable car in Via Cimarosa. At the top, the visitor can enjoy
the park that surrounds Villa Floridiana built by Ferdinand I Bourbon for
his beloved duchess of Floridia in the early 19th century. The large park
is filled with tall trees. It slopes gently down towards the sea and offers
pleasant walks through grassy areas and shaded woods on avenues
and paths that lead to the lookout tower. On the way, you will see small
temples, follies and imitations of classical ruins that were very popular
during the Victorian era. At the end of the Central Avenue, you see the
elegant, Neo-Classical villa against a background of a large open grassy
area. Today, the villa is used by the National Museum of Ceramics and
boasts of a collection dedicated to the decorative arts. © wcities.com
wcities
15
contact:
tel: +39 081 252 5711
location:
Via Alfredo De Luca
Naples 80077
4 Ischia
DESCRIPTION: The "green island", dominated by Monte
Epomeo, a volcano which last erupted in 1883 and
characterized by fumaroles and thermal springs, fell prey to
the Romans, who appreciated the therapeutic thermal waters.
Today the island is a popular tourist resort. Ischia, the most
important town, is divided into two parts: Ischia Ponte, the older
part, which faces the tiny Castello Aragonese island, and Ischia
Porto, which is more modern and touristy and whose quay
has become popular for evening walks. The other towns on
the island are: Casamicciola, renowned for its thermal waters
since antiquity; Lacco Ameno, a seaside resort famous for
the characteristic mushroom shaped rock near the beach;
Forio, which, amongst the picturesque fishermen's houses,
conserves numerous works of art such as the 14th-century
Chiesa di Santa Maria di Loreto, and then Barano, which offers
an attractive view over the Lido dei Maronti, the small village of
Sant'Angelo, picturesquely laid down in steps, and the nearby
Serra Fontana. © wcities.com
wcities
16
Day 3 - Rome
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: http://www.campingtiber.com ASCI
.
http://www.villageflaminio.com vo centarot na Rim 43 eura
.
http://www.ecvacanze.it/it/proprieta.php?idp=42 isto vo centarot 43 eura
.
http://www.romaincamper.it/finesettimanaGB.html-turist guide
.
http://www.happycamping.net/ nadvor od krugot ASCI ama naplakaat i ekstra
.
http://www.ecvacanze.it/it/facilities.php?idp=42&tf=Dove+Siamo&tfx=4&f=1 na krugot na RIM
.
http://www.caravanecamper.it/aree_doc/aree_show.php?amp;id=175&regione=Lazio&id=77 besplaten 45km od rim na ring
road
.
http://www.parkingleterrazze.it/strutt.shtml
.
address: via di fioranello 170, roma 15E den ima i mesto za rucavanje i igraliste za deca. se naoga na krugot
.
Area di sosta - Prato Smeraldo-Via di Tor Pagnotta, 424 (angolo Via Ardeatina) - 00143 - Roma 16 eura vo krugot
.
Latitude: 42 ° 01 '52.01''North - Longitude: 12 ° 02' East''00:36 camp Sasso prema pisa 10 EURA nok
.
http://www.atac.roma.it/index.asp?p=14 -3 dneven pass 11 eura, eden den 4 eura
contact:
http://www.italyguides.it/us/ro
ma/venezia.htm
location:
piazza Venezia
Rome 00187
location:
Centro Storico
Rome
1 Piazza Venezia
DESCRIPTION: Beset on all sides by roads, the square is
heavily congested with traffic. In the background, the Altare
della Patria is dedicated to King Vittorio Emanuele. Romans
refer to it as the 'wedding cake' or the 'typewriter' because of its
shape and colour. Shortly after WW1, the body of the Unknown
Soldier was brought here and placed in the centre of the steps
of the Vittoriano. It has a permanent armed guard. Palazzo
Venezia was built during the second half of the 15th c. and
was where the Venetian ambassadors to Rome stayed. Later it
became the residence of the Cardinal of the Basilica of St Mark.
© wcities.com
wcities
2 Centro Storico
DESCRIPTION: Centro Storico is where you will find many
of Rome's historic sites, from the Campo dei Fiori to the
Pantheon to Piazza Navona. Because the city attracts millions
of tourists each year, this is also where you will find a lot of the
upscale shops. The pedestrian-only via dei Condotti has all the
favorites, the kind of shops that you wait in line for just to get in,
even when there is no one inside: Max Mara, Modigliani, Louis
Vuitton, Ferragamo, Cartier, Gucci, Hermes. The whole district
is a wonderful maze of cobblestone streets. You will find mostly
tourists here, including a celebrity or two. Romans head to the
.
17
outskirts of town for their less expensive shopping, but this is
where the big names are, so don't be put off by this fact. It's an
excellent area to come to if you have limited time as you can
see the sites and get in your shopping in the same area. This is
the area most people think of when they envision Rome; the old
centre of the city and one that attracts millions of visitors every
year. © wcities.com
contact:
tel: +39 6 48 8991 (Tourist
Information)
fax: +39 6 481 9316 (Tourism
Board)
http://www.romaturismo.it/v2/
allascopertadiroma/en/itinerar
i09.html
location:
via San Gregorio
Rome 00184
contact:
tel: +39 6 700 4261 / +39 6
700 5469
http://www.museidiroma.com/
colosseo.htm
location:
Piazza del Colosseo
Rome 00184
hours:
Nov-Feb 15 daily
8:30am-4:30pm; Feb 16Mar 15 daily 8:30am-5pm;
Mar 16-Mar 27 daily
8:30am-5:30pm; Mar 28-Aug
daily 8:30am-7:15pm; Sept
daily 8:30am-7pm; Oct daily
8:30am-6pm. Guided tours in
English with an archaeologist
7 times per day Mar 28Oct 30 (9:30am, 10:15am,
11:15am, 12:30pm, 3pm,
4:15pm, and 5:15pm)
3 Arco di Costantino
DESCRIPTION: The Arch of Constantine is particularly
interesting because it is like a jigsaw made up of other
monuments. It was built using material from Trajan's Forum,
from where the statues of the Dacian prisoners and the friezes
representing Marcus Aurelius were also taken. The Arch
was erected at the beginning of the fourth century in honour
of Constantine, following the victory over Maxentius. It is
considered one of the last great monuments to be constructed
by the Romans. It stands beside the Colosseum in the huge
square which in summer is the site for one of the events of the
'Estate Romana'. A huge screen is hung from the arch, onto
which films and videos are projected. © wcities.com
.
4 The Colosseum (Colosseo)
The Colosseo's hypogeum was recently opened for
visitors who wanted a view from the ground up of
the amphitheatre. As the tourist information if you
can book a limited reservation.
.
DESCRIPTION: No visit to Rome is complete without having
seen its magnificent Colosseum, a vast amphitheatre with
seating for 55,000 that was designed as a horse racing circuit
and arena for animal fighting and gladiatorial battles. Upon its
completion, spectacular 100-day celebrations were organized
as part of the opening ceremony in 72 AD. Its name is believed
to come from Nero's enormous statue of Colossus that stood
close by. © wcities.com
MY NOTE: Najdobro da se poseti u 16h ila najmalku guzva.
18
contact:
tel: +39 6 699 0110
location:
Via San Gregorio
Rome 00184
5 Palatine (The)
Queue up for the House of August and its beautiful
conserved 1st century frescoes.
DESCRIPTION: Just south of the Roman Forum and offering a
stunning view of the ancient city, this area includes imperial and
patrician residences including those of the Emperor Domitian.
Originally the Domus Flavia had walls completely lined with
polished marble - Domitian feared assassination and in this
way he could see the reflection of anyone coming towards him.
The courtyard still has its fine pavement in coloured marble.
Close by can be seen a number of holes, made for the posts
of huts, possibly dating from the 9th century BC. It is thought
that these were Rome's first huts, attributed by legend to the
hand of Romulus himself.  The Palatine Hill is a top site
in Rome.
© wcities.com
contact:
tel: +39 6 0669 8643
http://www.vatican.va/various/
basiliche/san_giovanni/vr_tou
r/index-en.html
location:
piazza San Giovanni in
Laterano
Rome 00184
hours:
Summer: 7a-6:45p M-Su, Off
Season: 7a-6p M-Su
contact:
tel: +39 6 8530 1756
(Booking)
fax: +39 6 8530 1758 (for
booking)
location:
via della Domus Aurea
Rome 00184
.
6 San Giovanni in Laterano
DESCRIPTION: San Giovanni in Laterano is the oldest church
in the world. It was founded by Pope Melchiade at the start of
the 4th century on the ruins of the villa of the Roman family,
the Laterani. The church's current appearance was created by
Borromini for the 1650 Jubilee. Although he retained the 16th
century ceiling and floor, the architect altered the appearance
by joining pairs of columns in the central nave to make a single
pillar inside. In this he built coloured marble niches and placed
statues of the apostles. In 1735, Alessandro Galilei renewed
the façade entirely in travertine stone and crowned it with 15
statues, and at the end of the 19th century the apse was also
rebuilt. The admission to the basilica is free. © wcities.com
wcities
7 Domus Aurea
DESCRIPTION: After 15 years of restoration work, it is now possible to visit the remaining rooms of
this immense palace, said to have been 25 times larger than the Colosseum at the height of Nero's
reign. The interior is rich in walls covered with frescos, gold, gemstones, and mother-of-pearl, and
ceilings tiled in ivory, with openings for creating a shower of flowers and perfumes. After Nero's
death, his successors attempted to eradicate his memory and eliminate every possible trace of this
palace; fortunately for history this remained. © wcities.com
hours:
Visiting hours: 9:40a-6:40p
W-M
19
contact:
tel: +39 06 3996 7700
http://www.romanforum.org/
location:
Via Romolo Artioli
Rome 00186
contact:
tel: +39 (0)6 679 8155
location:
piazza del Campidoglio 4
Rome 00186
hours:
Call for details
8 Roman Forum
DESCRIPTION: The Forum was designed to be the centre of
social, political and economic life in the city. The innumerable
remains include the well-conserved triumphal arch of Emperor
Septimius Severus, with reliefs depicting his victories and the
base of the Temple of Saturn with its eight columns and their
splendid Ionic capitals. The 'Rostrum' is the famous platform
from which Mark Antony gave his oration in Shakespeare's
play after Julius Caesar's assassination. The platform became
the setting for many important events in Rome's history. It was
named the 'rostrum' after the bows of the ships that form the
decorative motif. The Temple of Vesta was the home of the
Vestal Virgins, charged with keeping the sacred flame alight.
The circular foundations still remain, near to a garden in which
traces of the House of the Vestal Virgins can still be seen. The
Basilica of Constantine and Massentius was used as the court,
and the three remaining barrel-vaulted naves give an idea of
its gigantic structure. The Arch of Titus celebrates victories in
Judea, and in the reliefs you can see the spoils of war, including
an altar and a seven-armed chandelier. © wcities.com
.
9 Santa Maria d'Aracoeli
DESCRIPTION: On the Capitoline Hill, this landmark church
was built for the Franciscans in the 13th century. According to
legend, Augustus once ordered a temple erected on this spot,
where a sibyl forecast the coming of Christ. In the interior are
a coffered Renaissance ceiling and a mosaic of the Virgin over
the altar in the Byzantine style. If you poke around, you'll find a
tombstone carved by the great Renaissance sculptor Donatello.
The church is known for its Bufalini Chapel, a masterpiece by
Pinturicchio, who frescoed it with scenes illustrating the life and
death of St. Bernardino of Siena. He also depicted St. Francis
receiving the stigmata. These frescoes are a high point in early
Renaissance Roman painting. You have to climb a long flight
of steep steps to reach the church, unless you're already on
neighboring Piazza del Campidoglio, in which case you can
cross the piazza and climb the steps on the far side of the
Museo Capitolino . © Frommer's
wcities
20
contact:
tel: +39 06 060 608(Tourist
Information)
i05.html
location:
piazza del Campidoglio
Rome 00186
A Piazza del Campidoglio
DESCRIPTION: Reorganisation of Piazza del Campidoglio began in
1539 as part of a plan undertaken by Pope Paul III. It was the first square
created as part of a plan conceived by Michelangelo in which a space
was created between Palazzo Senatorio and Palazzo dei Conservatori
bounded by a new symmetrical building. The square is in the shape of
a trapezoid with the Palazzo Senatorio on the longer side (the seat of
the city council's administrative offices) and the Capitoline Museums on
either side. Michelangelo also designed the monumental flight of steps
that leads to the square on either side of which were the Dioscuri designed
by Giacomo della Porta. Michelangelo also designed the pavement in
the centre of which stands the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius
which survived the Middle Ages as it was thought that it represented the
Emperor Constantine, the protector of the Christian religion. © wcities.com
wcities
21
Day 4 - Rome
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: Римскиот форум,
.
Колосеумот, Базиликата Св. Климент, Палатата на правдата, Замокот Св. Анѓело, Капитол и
.
Капитолскиот музеј, плоштадот Венеција, Триумфалната арка и др. Факултативна посета на Ватикан
.
со плоштадот Св. Петар, Ватиканскиот музеј и Сиктинската капел
contact:
1 Piazza Navona
tel: +39 06 060 608(Tourist
Information)
http://www.romecity.it/Piazza_ DESCRIPTION: During the Christmas season this square is
navona.htm
packed with stalls selling toys, sweets and decorations for the
location:
piazza Navona
Rome 00186
contact:
tel: +39 6 48 8991 (Tourist
Information)
fax: +39 6 481 9316 (Tourism
Board)
http://www.villaborghese.it
location:
piazzale del Museo Borghese
5
Rome 00196
hours:
Dawn-dusk
Nativity scene or Christmas tree, making it a favourite spot for
children. Its unusual shape recalls the time of Domitian, who
built a stadium for equestrian displays here. The Fountain of the
Rivers, with the obelisk, and the Fountain of the Moor, with the
god of the sea, at the centre of the square, are both by Bernini.
© wcities.com
.
2 Villa Borghese
DESCRIPTION: Design of the villa began at the start of the
17th century when Pope Paul V Borghese was elected. Its
style resembles that of city villas from 100 years earlier. The
gardens were especially cared for - aviaries were added to
house exotic birds and areas of the gardens were stocked with
peacocks, ostriches, gazelles and even lions. Over the years,
the garden was altered into an English-style space designed
by Jacob Moore. One of the park's loveliest areas is the Lake
Garden, which is enclosed by a railing that emphasises the
lake's irregular shape. In the centre of an artificial island, a
temple was built dedicated to Aesculapius. The famous Square
of Siena has been the scene of horse-jumping and carriageracing competitions since it was first built. © wcities.com
wcities
22
contact:
tel: +39 06 060 608(Tourist
Information)
location:
Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti
Rome 00187
3 Spanish Steps
DESCRIPTION: The Spanish Steps were designed by Alessandro
Specchi and Francesco de Sanctis. They connect Piazza di Spagna to
the French church of Trinità dei Monti. In spring the steps are decorated
with hundreds of coloured azaleas. Being a beautiful, central and trafficprohibited spot, the steps are a permanent meeting place for the young
and for tourists. © wcities.com
wcities
contact:
tel: +39 6 48 8991 (Tourist
Information)
fax: +39 6 481 9316 (tourist
information)
http://www.piazzadispagna.it/
location:
piazza di Spagna
Rome 00187
contact:
i01.html
location:
via Margutta
Rome 00187
contact:
tel: +39 06 48 8991
location:
piazza di Spagna
Rome 00187
4 Piazza di Spagna
DESCRIPTION: An incredible, almost theatrical square with
the lovely Spanish steps leading up to the Chiesa di Trinità dei
Monti. One of the most important fashion shows is held here,
the steps being used as a catwalk. It is now an international
meeting point. The fountain known as the 'Barcaccia' (boat)
was commissioned by Urbano Barberini to commemorate
the alliance made with the King of France, whose coat of
arms can be seen on Trinità dei Monti. The square leads into
several famous streets, Via Dei Condotti, Via Frattina and
Via Borgognona with their luxurious boutiques, and Via Del
Babuino with its antique shops. © wcities.com
.
5 Via Margutta
DESCRIPTION: Parallel to the elegant Via del Babuino runs the narrow
but noteworthy Via Margutta. Here a great number of young artists,
with great hopes and little money, made their names. The street is now
peppered with little art galleries. The attics of the houses were and are still
the studios of painters great and small. Among the characters who have
lived in this street one remembers the painter Novella Parigini with her
characteristic images of cats and cat-like women. The festival 100 Pittori in
via Margutta (100 painters on via Margutta) takes place every year at the
end of October and the beginning of November: it's a chance to admire
original works of art and discover new talent. © wcities.com
wcities
6 Barcaccia Fountain (La)
DESCRIPTION: La Barcaccia Fountain is at the foot of La
Scalinata, the stone stairway that leads to the Church of the
Trinita de' Monti. Designed by the well-known artist Pietro
Bernini, this fountain is boat-shaped with water flowing in a
steady gurgle. Unlike the fountains elsewhere in Rome, this
compact structure lacks the grand and lavish designs of others
but still is a charming creation by itself. Few people find a
wcities
23
resemblance between the fountain and the Biblical eternal ship
struggling to stay afloat. However, it is believed that this is the
place where Roman King Domitian built his majestic water
stadium, and the fountain is a reminiscent of the same. 
© wcities.com
contact:
tel: +39 6 48 8991 (Tourist
Information)
fax: +39 6 481 9316
i01.html
location:
piazza della Repubblica
Rome 00185
7 Piazza della Repubblica
DESCRIPTION: The fountain with the four bronze statues
of the Najadi by Mario Rutelli stands in the centre of the
square, on one side there's the church of Santa Maria degli
Angeli and Diocletian's Baths, and on the other there are
buildings of various architectural styles. Called Piazza della
Repubblica after WW2, it still officially bears the name that
refers to the central exedra of the Baths as well as being known
as Piazza Esedra. The square is a meeting point for official
demonstrations and for receiving visiting delegations from
abroad. © wcities.com
.
24
Day 5 - Rome
QUICK NOTE
contact:
tel: +39 068 530 1758
fax: +39 068 530 1756
http://www.vatican.va
location:
viale Vaticano
Rome
hours:
M-F 8:45 a-4:45 p, Sa
8:45a-1:45p
contact:
tel: +39 6 48 8991 (Tourist
Information)
fax: +39 6 481 9316
location:
via della Conciliazione
Rome 00193
contact:
tel: +39 (0)6 48 8991 (Tourist
Information)
fax: +39 (0)6 481 9316
(Tourism Board)
http://www.romaturismo.com/
v2/operatoriprofessionali/it/sp
ietro.html
location:
piazza San Pietro
1 Sistine Chapel
DESCRIPTION: Visiting Rome for the first time, visitors must
experience the Sistine Chapel, the Vatican structure with 50
million monthly visitors. The Chapel was built between 1477
and 1481 by Pope Sixtus IV. From 1480 to 1483 the walls
were decorated by famous artists of Renaissance, such as
Botticelli, Perugino, Ghirlandaio. After twenty years, Julius II
commissioned Michelangelo to decorate the ceiling in 1508.
Today, after the restoration, tourists can visit the chapel and
see Michelangelo's 'Last Judgement'. The Vatican has placed
its enormous art collection on the Web in hopes that it will
attract more tourists. The site allows visitors to take a virtual
reality tour of some of the dozen museums and galleries that
make up the Vatican collection, viewing Michelangelo's Sistine
Chapel with a three-dimensional video. At the Chapel, you
will invariably find it crowded with hundreds of tourists, so
be prepared. The best way to see it is to go to the Vatican
Museums early, so that you're among the first in line when
they open. Silence should be observed and photography is not
prohibited. © wcities.com
wcities
2 Via della Conciliazione
DESCRIPTION: Via della Conciliazione is the main street
leading to St Peter's Church from Adrian's Mausoleum or
Castel Sant'Angelo. The project to create this monumental
street began in 1936 and ended only in 1950 (it was finally
inaugurated during the celebration of the Holy Year). The goal
was to make a street that was perfectly straight, and in order to
achieve this, some old Borghi buildings had to be demolished.
But in the end, despite their best efforts, Via della Conciliazione
is still crooked and so rows of columns were placed on both
sides to try to hide this fact. Among the buildings worth seeing
are the Palazzo Torlonia, the Palazzo dei Penitenzieri and the
Palazzo dei Convertendi. © wcities.com
wcities
3 Basilica di San Pietro (St. Peter's
Basilica)
DESCRIPTION: People come by the millions each year to
receive the Pope's blessing, traditionally given on Sundays at
noon. St Peter's has undergone many transformations since the
original Constantine basilica of AD320. The top of its majestic
dome (designed by Michelangelo), provides the best vantage
point from which to marvel at Bernini's magnificent colonnade
surrounding the square, the gilded bronze canopy above the
altar and Michelangelo's Pietà. Bramante, Pietro da Cortona
and Canova are just a handful of the many other artists who
.
25
Rome 00193
hours:
24 hrs
worked together on this monumental basilica's decoration and
design. © wcities.com
contact:
4 Musei Vaticani (Vatican Museums)
tel: +39 (0)6 6988 3041
fax: +39 (0)6 6988 5236
http://mv.vatican.va/3_EN/pag DESCRIPTION: This unique art collection is exhibited in
es/MV_Home.html
surroundings of unparalleled beauty. The magnificent Raphael
location:
Viale Vaticano
Rome 00165
hours:
M-F 8:45a- 3:45p, Sa
1p-4:45p
Rooms are among the masterpieces of the collection, where
each room is decorated with frescoes by great artists. The best
known is The School of Athens, in which contemporary artists
appear as classical characters (Leonardo da Vinci, for example,
appears as Plato). The Sistine Chapel is the museum's finest
treasure, and features Michelangelo's famous Last Judgement.
He was one of many artists including Perugino, Botticelli,
Ghirlandaio and Pinturicchio who contributed to the chapel. ©
wcities.com
.
26
Day 6 - Florence, Pisa
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: http://www.campingitalia.net/dove_siamo.php 20km od Pisa camp 15 eura super ACSI
.
http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?numid=5150&Localit%E9=PISA&Pays=ITALIE 12 eura vo gradot Istiot od
gore review 12 eura i siguren dobri komentari i moze da se noceva, parking-nema drva, GPS: N 43,72861 - E 10,39167,addressc2 Via
Pietrasantina
.
Плоштадот Синориња, крстилницата Сан Џовани
.
Палатата и мостот Векио, катедралата Санта Мариа дел Фиори
contact:
tel: 055-238-8602
http://www.uffizi.firenze.it/mus
ei/cappellemedicee/
location:
Piazza di Madonna degli
Aldobrandini, 6
Florence Tuscany 50123
hours:
Daily 8:15am-5pm
1 Cappelle Medicee (Medici
Chapels)
Read up on the meaning of each tomb, very
interesting stories.
DESCRIPTION: When Michelangelo built the New Sacristy
between 1520 and 1533 (finished by Vasari in 1556), it was
to be a tasteful monument to Lorenzo the Magnificent and his
generation of fairly pleasant Medici. When work got underway
on the Chapel of the Princes in 1604, it was to become
one of the world's most god-awful and arrogant memorials,
dedicated to the grand dukes, some of Florence's most decrepit
tyrants. The Cappella dei Principi (Chapel of the Princes)
is an exercise in bad taste, a mountain of cut marbles and
semiprecious stones -- jasper, alabaster, mother-of-pearl,
agate, and the like -- slathered onto the walls and ceiling with
no regard for composition and still less for chromatic unity.
The pouring of ducal funds into this monstrosity began in 1604
and lasted until the rarely conscious Gian Gastone de' Medici
drank himself to death in 1737 without an heir -- but teams
kept doggedly at the thing, and they were still finishing the
floor in 1962. The tombs of the grand dukes in this massive
marble mistake were designed by Pietro Tacca in the 17th
century, and off to the left and right of the altar are small
treasuries full of gruesome holy relics in silver-bedecked cases.
The dome of the structure, seen from the outside, is one of
Florence's landmarks, a kind of infant version of the Duomo's.
Michelangelo's Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy), built to
jibe with Brunelleschi's Old Sacristy in San Lorenzo proper,
is much calmer. (An architectural tidbit: The windows in the
dome taper as they get near the top to fool you into thinking the
dome is higher.) Michelangelo was supposed to produce three
tombs here (perhaps four) but ironically got only the two less
important ones done. So Lorenzo de' Medici the Magnificent -wise ruler of his city, poet of note, grand patron of the arts, and
moneybags behind much of the Renaissance -- ended up with
a mere inscription of his name next to his brother Giuliano's
on a plain marble slab against the entrance wall. Admittedly,
they did get one genuine Michelangelo sculpture to decorate
their slab, a Madonna and Child that's perhaps the master's
http://www.uffizi.firenze.it/musei/
cappellemedicee/
27
most beautiful version of the theme (the other two statues are
later works by less talented sculptors). On the left wall of the
sacristy is Michelangelo's Tomb of Lorenzo, duke of Urbino
(and Lorenzo the Magnificent's grandson), whose seated statue
symbolizes the contemplative life. Below him on the elongated
curves of the tomb stretch Dawn (female) and Dusk (male),
a pair of Michelangelo's most famous sculptures, where he
uses both high polish and rough cutting to impart strength,
texture, and psychological suggestion to the allegorical works.
This pair mirrors the similarly fashioned and equally important
Day (male) and Night (female) across the way. One additional
point Dawn and Night brings out is that Michelangelo really
wasn't too adept at the female body -- he just produced softer,
less muscular men with slightly elongated midriffs and breasts
sort of tacked on at funny angles. The Master's Doodles -On the walls around the small altar in the Medici Chapels are
some recently uncovered architectural graffiti that have been
attributed to Michelangelo. Even more important are some 50
charcoal drawings and sketches the master left on the walls in
the sepulchral chamber below. The drawings include a sketch
of the legs of Duke Giuliano, Christ risen, and the Laocoön.
Michelangelo found himself hiding out here after the Medici
reconquered the city in 1530 -- he had helped the city keep
the dukes out with his San Miniato defenses and, probably
rightly, feared a reprisal. You need an appointment to see the
sketches; ask at the ticket office. © Frommer's
location:
Ponte Vecchio
Florence 50125
2 Ponte Vecchio
DESCRIPTION: You can't miss the most recognizable landmark
of Florence, the Ponte Vecchio.  Constructed in 1345,
the Ponte Vecchio is the oldest bridge still standing in Florence,
hence the name.  The multicolored structure bridge
was first home to butcher shops. As the noble bankers would
cross the Arno river to their offices, there was a rancid smell
of pigs blood and rotted meat which extremely offended
them.  In an effort to improve the area, the Medici
stepped in and ordered the lower class shopkeepers out and
moved goldsmiths and diamond-cutters in. Ponte Vecchio is
the only bridge that escaped the bombing by the Germans
in WWII.  Today, now a pedestrian bridge, the shops
shimmer and shine with necklaces, rings and charms of the
most expensive kind.  Tourists can enjoy an early
morning walk over the bridge before the shops open or at
sunset where lovers stare at the horizon as musicians sing and
be merry.
© NileGuide
.
28
location:
Piazzale Michelangelo
Florence 50125
3 Piazzale Michelangelo
"Bring a picnic lunch or dinner and enjoy the sunset
with someone special."
DESCRIPTION: The vista which one can see the whole valley
of Florence and of the surrounding hills is a must see. 
The climb up is rewarding, the view is breathtaking. There are
buses available to take you to Piazzale Michelangelo. Tourists,
tourist groups and tour buses all congregate at this panoramic
view.  Vendors set up early in the morning with cool
beverages for the parched tourists and souvenirs for the eager
shoppers. A sunset visit is for the romantics, bringing a wine
bottle and gazing at the Florentine sky as it ends another day.
There is never a bad time to visit Piazzale Michelangelo, there
is always something to see from this height
© NileGuide
contact:
tel: 055-230-2885
http://www.duomofirenze.it/ind
ex-eng.htm
location:
Piazza del Duomo
Florence 53100
hours:
Church Mon-Wed and
Fri 10am-5pm; Thurs
10am-3:30pm; 1st Sat of
month 10am-3:30pm, other
Sat 10am-4:45pm; Sun
1:30-4:30pm. Free tours
every 40 min. daily, 10:30amnoon and 3-4:20pm. Cupola
Mon-Fri 8:30am-6:20pm;
Sat 8:30am-5pm (1st Sat of
month to 3:20pm)
Katie Greenaway
4 Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria
dei Fiori)
Head to the top of the Dome for some fantastic
views of Florence.
DESCRIPTION: For centuries, people have commented that
Florence's cathedral is turned inside out, its exterior boasting
Brunelleschi's famous dome, Giotto's bell tower, and a festive
cladding of white, green, and pink marble, but its interior left
spare, almost barren. By the late 13th century, Florence was
feeling peevish: Its archrivals Siena and Pisa sported huge
new Duomos filled with art while it was saddled with the tiny
5th- or 6th-century Santa Reparata as a cathedral. So, in 1296,
the city hired Arnolfo di Cambio to design a new Duomo, and
he began raising the facade and the first few bays before his
death in 1302. Work continued under the auspices of the Wool
Guild and architects Giotto di Bondone (who concentrated
on the bell tower) and Francesco Talenti (who finished up to
the drum of the dome and in the process greatly enlarged
Arnolfo's original plan). The facade we see today is a neoGothic composite designed by Emilio de Fabris and built
from 1871 to 1887 (for its story, see the Museo dell'Opera del
Duomo). The Duomo's most distinctive feature is its enormous
dome [STSTST], which dominates the skyline and is a symbol
of Florence itself. The raising of this dome, the largest in
the world in its time, was no mean architectural feat, tackled
admirably by Filippo Brunelleschi between 1420 and 1436.
You can climb up between the two shells of the cupola for one
of the classic panoramas across the city. At the base of the
dome, just above the drum, Baccio d'Agnolo began adding a
balcony in 1507. One of the eight sides was finished by 1515,
when someone asked Michelangelo -- whose artistic opinion
was by this time taken as cardinal law -- what he thought
Katie Greenaway
29
of it. The master reportedly scoffed, "It looks like a cricket
cage." Work was immediately halted, and to this day the other
seven sides remain rough brick. The Duomo was actually
built around Santa Reparata so it could remain in business
during construction. For more than 70 years, Florentines
entered their old church through the free-standing facade of
the new one, but in 1370 the original was torn down when
the bulk of the Duomo -- except the dome -- was finished.
Ever the fiscal conservatives, Florentines started clamoring
to see some art as soon as the new facade's front door was
completed in the early 1300s -- to be sure their investment
would be more beautiful than rival cathedrals. Gaddo Gaddi
was commissioned to mosaic an Enthronement of Mary in
the lunette above the inside of the main door, and the people
were satisfied. The stained-glass windows set in the facade
were designed by Lorenzo Ghiberti, and Paolo Uccello, a
painter obsessed by the newly developed perspective, frescoed
the huge hora italica clock with its four heads of Prophets
in 1443. At a right-aisle pier are steps leading down to the
excavations of the old Santa Reparata. In 1972, a tomb slab
inscribed with the name Filippo Brunelleschi was discovered
there (visible through a gate). Unless you're interested in the
remains of some ancient Roman houses and parts of the paleoChristian mosaics from Santa Reparata's floor, the 3€ ($3.90)
admission isn't worth it. Against the left-aisle wall are the only
frescoes besides the dome in the Duomo. The earlier one to
the right is the greenish Memorial to Sir John Hawkwood
(1436), an English condottiere (mercenary commander) whose
name the Florentines mangled to Giovanni Acuto when they
hired him to rough up their enemies. Before he died, or so the
story goes, the mercenary asked to have a bronze statue of
himself riding his charger to be raised in his honor. Florence
solemnly promised to do so, but, in typical tightwad style, after
Hawkwood's death the city hired the master of perspective
and illusion, Paolo Uccello, to paint an equestrian monument
instead -- much cheaper than casting a statue in bronze.
Andrea del Castagno copied this painting-as-equestrian-statue
idea 20 years later when he frescoed a Memorial to Niccolò
da Tolentino next to Uccello's work. Near the end of the left
aisle is Domenico di Michelino's Dante Explaining the Divine
Comedy (1465). In the back left corner of the sanctuary is the
New Sacristy. Lorenzo de' Medici was attending Mass in the
Duomo one April day in 1478 with his brother Giuliano when
they were attacked in the infamous Pazzi Conspiracy. The
conspirators, egged on by the pope and led by a member of
the Pazzi family, old rivals of the Medici, fell on the brothers
at the ringing of the sanctuary bell. Giuliano was murdered on
the spot -- his body rent with 19 wounds -- but Lorenzo vaulted
over the altar rail and sprinted for safety into the New Sacristy,
slamming the bronze doors behind him. Those doors were cast
from 1446 to 1467 by Luca della Robbia, his only significant
work in the medium. Earlier, Luca had provided a lunette of
the Resurrection (1442) in glazed terra cotta over the door,
as well as the lunette Ascension over the south sacristy door.
The interior of the New Sacristy is filled with beautifully inlaid
wood cabinet doors. The frescoes on the interior of the dome
were designed by Giorgio Vasari but painted mostly by his lesstalented student Federico Zuccari by 1579. The frescoes were
subjected to a thorough cleaning completed in 1996, which
30
many people saw as a waste of restoration lire when so many
more important works throughout the city were waiting to be
salvaged. The scrubbing did, however, bring out Zuccari's only
saving point -- his innovative color palette. © Frommer's
contact:
tel: 055-265-311
fax: +39 055 265 3130
http://www.museogalileo.it/en
/index.html
location:
Piazza dei Giudici 1
Florence 50122
hours:
June-Sept Mon and WedFri 9:30am-5pm, Tues and
Sat 9:30am-1pm, last Thurs
of June and Aug, and 1st
Thurs of July and Sept
9-11pm; Oct-May Mon and
Wed-Sat 9:30am-5pm, Tues
9:30am-1pm, and 2nd Sun of
every month 10am-1pm
contact:
tel: +39 55 276 8224
http://www.museumsinflorenc
e.com/musei/Palazzo_vecchi
o.html
location:
Piazza della Signoria
Florence 50122
5 Museo Galileo (Science Museum)
DESCRIPTION: The mainframe computer and multifunction calculator
don't hold a candle to this collection's beautifully engraved intricate
mechanical instruments. Galileo and his ilk practiced a science that
was an art form of the highest aesthetic order. The cases display such
beauties as a mechanical calculator from 1664 -- a gleaming bronze
sandwich of engraved disks and dials -- and an architect's compass
and plumb disguised as a dagger, complete with sheath. In the field of
astronomy, the museum has the lens with which Galileo discovered four
of the moons of Jupiter (which he promptly and prudently named after his
Medici patrons) and, alongside telescopes of all sizes and complexity, a
tiny "lady's telescope" made of ivory that once came in a box of beauty
products. There's also a somewhat grisly room devoted to medicine,
with disturbingly realistic wax models of just about everything that can go
wrong during childbirth. And what Italian institution would be complete
without a holy relic? In this case, it's the middle finger of Galileo's right
hand, swiped while he was en route to reinterment in Santa Croce. He
was allowed burial in a Christian church only in the 18th century, after
he was posthumously vindicated against the Inquisition for supporting a
heliocentric view of the universe. © Frommer's
Katie Greenaway
6 Palazzo Vecchio (Museo)
DESCRIPTION: The palazzo's construction began in 1299 and
it was enlarged repeatedly - in 1343, 1495 and lastly in the 16th
century by Vasari and Buontalenti. It has been the symbol and
the political centre of the city for centuries. The Great room
of the Cinquecento stands out, the work of Cronaca, it was
designed as a reception area and decorated with frescoes
celebrating Florentine victories against the other Tuscan cities
and with sculptures depicting the deeds of Hercules by De
Rossi. On the upper floors the Quarters of the elements are
noteworthy as are those of Eleanor of Toledo who was the
wife of Cosimo I and to whom the little chapel by Bronzino is
dedicated. The Gigli room and the Audience room, which has
a marble entrance, are sumptuous. On the Mezzanine there is
the Loeser collection of painted sculptures. It is recommended
that you visit the upper balcony where you can enjoy a fabulous
view of Florence. In front of the museum, you'll find a copy of
Michelangelo's David. © wcities.com
Katie Greenaway
31
contact:
tel: +39 055 3360456
fax: +39 055 3360475
http://www.museoferragamo.
it/
location:
Via Tornabuoni, 2
Florence Tuscany 50123
contact:
tel: +39 57 242 9342
fax: +39 57 242 9614
http://www.pinocchio.it
location:
Via San Gennaro
Collodi Tuscany 51014
contact:
tel: +39 050 835 011
fax: +39 050 560 505
http://www.opapisa.it/
location:
piazza del Duomo
Pisa 56126
7 Museo Salvatore Ferragamo
DESCRIPTION: This museum is every girl's fantasy, Museo
Salvatore Ferragamo. The collection on display is of the
career's of Salvatore Ferragamo from 1927 to 1960 when he
passed away. There are designs that showcase his technical
and artistic skills, his color choices and the use of innovative
materials. He contributed to the growth and establishment
of Made in Italy. There are some exhibits that reveal the
relationships he had back in his day with the artists that
assisted in making and creating his incredible shoes. The
futurist painter, Lucio Venna who created some advertising
sketches and also the famous Ferragamo label. The perfect fit
and design was patented in 1936 as the famous cork wedge
and then right after it came out the world started copying the
style. He created shoes for the famous elite such as Marilyn
Monroe, Greta Garbo and Audrey Hepburn. The items on
display are periodically selected from the over 10,000 models in
the museum's archives and featured in biennial exhibitions that
present different themes. © NileGuide
Katie Greenaway
8 Parco di Pinocchio
DESCRIPTION: The author of Pinocchio Carlo Lorenzini
(1826-90), who wrote under the nom de plume of Carlo Collodi,
was from Florence. His mother was born here, and most of his
formative years were spent here. Florence is therefore the site
of the most famous theme park in Tuscany, which is inspired
by the story of Pinocchio and in which scenes from the story
have been re-created. It is a veritable paradise, but not just
for children! Pinocchio's Park contains a variety of irresistible
games and attractions for everyone. A monument to Pinocchio
and the fairy by Emilio Greco was erected in the 1950s. At
the same time, Venturini was involved in the construction
of the beautiful little piazza of mosaics, through which one
enters Toyland. This is an area where all the adventures of the
wooden puppet have been depicted in sculpture, scenery and
statues, made from various materials and interpreted by several
different artists. © wcities.com
http://www.metatoscana.it/
mete_bambini/toscana.asp
9 Piazza dei Miracoli
DESCRIPTION: A day trip to Pisa (about 90 kilometers east
of Florence and about 1 hour either by train or car) will take
you to visit one of the most striking squares in the country.
The so-called Campo dei Miracoli gathers on its lawn all the
most important sacred buildings of Pisa: the Leaning Tower,
the Cathedral, the Baptistery, the Monumental Cemetery and
the Hospital (now Museum of Sinopias). The real name of the
square is Piazza Duomo but the nickname was invented by
Italian poet Gabriele D'Annunzio. The square is listed among
UNESCO Heritage Sites, and the Opera Primaziale is the
wcities
32
organization that protects and maintains the whole monumental
area. Pisan-Romanesque-style architecture characterizes the
buildings, which were erected around 1000 to 1200 C.E. The
round Leaning Tower actually had static problems, probably
due to the sandy soil, and started to lean at the time of its
construction. The Cathedral is an outstanding masterpiece
(don't miss the sculpted pulpit by Giovanni Pisano!) and
there, according the legend, Galileo developed his pendulum
theory while looking at a fluctuating incensory. Opening hours
vary according the month. Generally in winter: 9:30 - 17:00
and  summer: 8:30 - 20:00. Admission to the Leaning
Tower is EUR15 amd EUR2 for the Cathedral. Cumulative
tickets are available for other monuments. For information
on disabled access, call +39 050 387 2210 -Maria Frullini ©
wcities.com
contact:
http://www.partner.viator.com
/en/6793/tours/Pisa/Pisa-City
-Hop-on-Hop-off-Tour/d520-2
916PSA
location:
Pisa Tuscany and Florence
contact:
tel: Galleria Palatina
055-238-8614, Galleria d'Arte
Moderna: 055-238-8601.
Museo degli Argenti:
fax: +39 055 238 8727
http://www.firenzemusei.it
location:
Piazza de' Pitti 1
Florence 50125
Pisa City Hop-on Hop-off Tour
DESCRIPTION: Discover Pisa using two different tour routes! See all
the main sights aboard an open-top double-decker bus and with 16
stops to choose from you can hop-on and hop-off all around the city. The
world famous Leaning Tower of Pisa is only one of a trio of Romanesque
splendors on the green carpet of Piazza dei Miracoli - a serious rival to
Venice's Piazza San Marco for the title of Italy's most memorable square.
The tour will take you just next to the wonderful Tower in Piazza dei
Miracoli and will continue to the Historical Center of Pisa with its Lungarni,
the streets along the Arno river, and you can also enjoy an excursion to
the Parco di San Rossore, a huge green area just outside the town.
You can hop-on and off as many times as you like aboard this open-top
double-decker bus. The four tour routes are inter-connected so you can
hop easily between them.
Discover Pisa using two tour routes. Your ticket is valid on ALL routes.
City Tour - Line A
The City Tour route takes approximately 45 minutes. Buses depart every
60 minutes and highlights include: Lugarno Mediceo, Via Crispi and
Lungarno Simonelli
Park Tour Tenuta di San Rossore - Line B
The Park Tour route takes approximately 45 minutes. Buses depart every
60 minutes and highlights include: Via Carlo Cammeo and Viale delle
Cascine © Viator
viator
A Palazzo Pitti & Giardino Boboli
(Pitti Palace & Boboli Gardens)
DESCRIPTION: Though the original, much smaller Pitti
Palace was a Renaissance affair probably designed by
Filippo Brunelleschi, that palazzo is completely hidden by the
enormous Mannerist mass we see today. Inside is Florence's
most extensive set of museums, including the Galleria Palatina,
a huge painting gallery second in town only to the Uffizi, with
famous works by Raphael, Andrea del Sarto, Titian, and
Rubens. When Luca Pitti died in 1472, Cosimo de' Medici's
wife, Eleonora of Toledo, bought this property and unfinished
Flickr by xiquinhosilva
33
hours:
Galleria Palatina: TuesSun 8:15am-5:50pm;
last admission 45 min.
before close. Galleria
d'Arte Moderna: Daily
8:15am-6:50pm. Museo
degli Argenti: Nov-Feb
daily 8:15am-4:30pm;
Mar daily 8:15am-5:30pm;
Apr-May and Oct daily
8:15am-6:30pm; JuneSept daily 8:15am-7:30pm.
Giardino Boboli: Nov-Feb
daily 8:15am-4:30pm;
Mar daily 8:15am-5:30pm;
Apr-May and Oct daily
8:15am-6:30pm; June-Sept
daily 8:15am-7:30pm
contact:
tel: 055-238-8609
fax: 055 238 8764
http://www.firenzemusei.it/acc
ademia/home.html
location:
Via Ricasoli 60
Florence FI 50122
hours:
Tues-Sun 8:15am-6:50pm;
last admission 30 min. before
close
contact:
tel: 055-238-8651
fax: +39 055 238 8694
http://www.uffizi.firenze.it
location:
Piazzale degli Uffizi 6
Florence 50122
hours:
Tues-Sun 8:15am-7pm. Ticket
window closes 45 min. before
museum
palace to convert into the new Medici home -- she hated
the dark, cramped spaces of the family apartments in the
Palazzo Vecchio. They hired Bartolomeo Ammannati to enlarge
the palazzo, which he did starting in 1560 by creating the
courtyard out back, extending the wings out either side, and
incorporating a Michelangelo architectural invention, "kneeling
windows," on the ground floor of the facade. (Rather than
being visually centered between the line of the floor and that of
the ceiling, kneeling windows' bases extend lower to be level
with the ground or, in the case of upper stories, with whatever
architectural element delineates the baseline of that story's
first level.) Later architects finished the building off by the 19th
century, probably to Ammannati's original plans, in the end
producing the oversize rustication of its outer walls and overall
ground plan that make it one of the masterpieces of Florentine
Mannerist architecture. The ticket office for the painting gallery
-- the main, and for many visitors, most interesting of the Pitti
museums -- is off Ammannati's excellent interior courtyard
of gold-tinged rusticated rock grafted onto the three classical
orders. © Frommer's
B Galleria dell'Accademia (Academy
Gallery)
DESCRIPTION: The Accademia is most famous for the David
by Michelangelo but did you know there are many paintings
in the museum to see as well? As you enter, the first long hall
is devoted to Michelangelo and, though you pass his Slaves
and the entrance to the painting gallery, most people are drawn
down to the far end, a room dominated by the most famous
sculpture in the world: Michelangelo's David. Michelangelo,
only 29 years old, finished in 1504 a Goliath-size David for
the city of Florence. Michelangelo's most fascinating works,
the four famous nonfiniti ("unfinished") Slaves. These statues
symbolize Michelangelo's theory that sculpture is an "art that
takes away superfluous material." The wait to see the David
can be up to an hour if you don't reserve ahead. I suggest
getting there before the museum opens in the morning or an
hour or two before closing time. © NileGuide
http://www.florencetouristguides.com/
ita/museo.htm
C Gallerie degli Uffizi (Uffizi
Galleries)
DESCRIPTION: The Uffizi is one of the world's great museums,
and the single best introduction to Renaissance painting, with
works by Giotto, Masaccio, Paolo Uccello, Sandro Botticelli,
Leonardo da Vinci, Perugino, Michelangelo, Raphael Sanzio,
Titian, Caravaggio, and the list goes on. The museum is
deceptively small. What looks like a small stretch of gallery
space can easily gobble up half a day -- many rooms suffer the
fate of containing nothing but masterpieces. Know before you
go that the Uffizi regularly shuts down rooms for crowd-control
reasons -- especially in summer, when the bulk of the annual
1.5 million visitors stampedes the place. Of the more than 3,100
artworks in the museum's archives, only about 1,700 are on
Katie Greenaway
34
exhibit. The painting gallery is housed in the structure built
to serve as the offices (uffizi is Florentine dialect for uffici, or
"offices") of the Medici, commissioned by Cosimo I from Giorgio
Vasari in 1560 -- perhaps his greatest architectural work. The
painting gallery was started by Cosimo I as well and is now
housed in the second-floor rooms that open off a long hall lined
with ancient statues and frescoed with grotesques. Tips for
Seeing the Uffizi -- If you have the time, make two trips to
the museum. On your first, concentrate on the first dozen or
so rooms and pop by the Greatest Hits of the 16th Century,
with works by Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Raphael, and Titian.
Return later for a brief recap and continue with the rest of the
gallery. Be aware that the gift shop at the end of the galleries
closes 20 minutes before the museum. You can visit it without
reentering the museum at any time; if you plan to stay in the
collections until closing, go down to the shop earlier during your
visit and get the guards' attention before you pass through the
exit turnstile, so they'll know you're just popping out to buy a
few postcards and will recognize you when you ask to be let
back in. © Frommer's
35
Day 7 - Monaco Cedex
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?numid=1299&Localit%E9=SAN%20REMO 7 do 10 eura za 24 h
na pat za monako, odma do golem camp, address Corso Guglielmo Marconi SP1
.
Località PIAN DI POMA
.
18038 SAN REMO (IM)
.
http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?numid=5645&Localit%E9=MONACO parking vo centar na Monaco ne moze da
se spie
.
смена на стража, Кнежевската Палата, катедралата Св.Никола
.
со гробницата на Грејс Кели и Принцот Рение,Океанографски музеј. По Формула 1 патеката се спуштаме до
.
Монте Карло:посета на познатите коцкарници во Монте Карло
contact:
tel: 93-15-29-80
www.jardin-exotique.mc
location:
Monte Carlo
hours:
Mid-May to mid-Sept daily
9am-7pm; mid-Sept to Nov 14
and Dec 26 to mid-May daily
9am-6pm
1 Jardin Exotique
DESCRIPTION: Built on the side of a rock, these gardens are known for their cactus collection.
They were begun by Prince Albert I, who was a naturalist and scientist. He spotted some
succulents growing in the palace gardens and created this garden from them. You can also explore
the grottoes here, as well as the Musée d'Anthropologie Préhistorique (tel. 93-15-29-80). The
view of the principality is splendid. © Frommer's
36
Day 8 - Montpellier, Barcelona
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: 41º 35' 27" / 2º 35' 30" Globo rojo 30km od Barcelona 27 EUR http://www.globo-rojo.com
.
http://campingmasnou.com.es/ 11km od barcelona super povrzano so gradot cena?- najblisku do Barcelona
.
http://www.campingestrellademar.es/ing/contact.html
.
http://english.autocaravanasdelsol.es/sanistation-for-motorhomes.htm
.
http://www.tmb.cat/en_US/barcelona/moute/targetes/3_dies.jsp za kupuvanje karta - za 3 dena 16.5 EUR
.
http://www.areasac.es/v_portal/apartados/pl_basica.asp?te=402 pich stop vo gradot
.
http://www.campingelvedado.com/01_camping.php nadvor od Barcelona ima bus do centarot
.
http://www.rentocamp.com
.
Булеварот Диагонал, Саграда Фамилија, улицатаРамблас,
.
Универзитетот, бизнис квартот, готската четврт, стадионот Ноу Камп, Националната палата,
.
Колумбовиот споменик, шпанско село, плоштадите Каталонија Шпанија, Музејот на Пикасо
contact:
tel: +33 4 6743 0280
fax: +33 4 6743 0365
http://www.musee-parc-dinos
aures.com
location:
Domaine de la Grande
Marquise
Mèze 34140
1 Plaine des Dinosaures (La)
The park is mostly outdoors. Not great for a rainy
day.
DESCRIPTION: One of the largest deposits of dinosaur eggs
and bones in the world, this site is the object of ongoing
research. Situated on the RN113 between Montagnac and
Mèze, the open air museum-park displays a range of exhibits
over five hectares, including eggs, skulls and whole skeletons
(most notably a magnificent 24-meter/73-foot Brachiosaurus
skeleton) as well as life-size replicas. Amateur paleontologists
can follow a guided tour of the dig sites while younger children
can learn from the reconstructions. Timings vary seasonally. ©
wcities.com
editor
MY NOTE: Vo Juni otvoren e od 14h do 18h
7 eur vozrasen 5,5 eur dete
contact:
tel: 93-207-30-31
fax: +34 93 476 1010
www.sagradafamilia.cat
location:
Majorca 401
Barcelona 08013
hours:
2 La Sagrada Família
DESCRIPTION: Gaudí's incomplete masterpiece is one of
the city's more idiosyncratic creations -- if you have time to
see only one Catalan landmark, you should make it this one.
Begun in 1882 and incomplete at the architect's death in 1926,
this incredible temple -- the Church of the Holy Family -- is a
bizarre wonder. The languid, amorphous structure embodies
the essence of Gaudí's style, which some have described as
.
37
Hours: Oct-Mar 9am-6pm;
Apr-Sept 9am-8pm; Dec
25-26, Jan 1 and 6 9am-2pm
Art Nouveau run wild. The Sagrada Família became Gaudí's
all-encompassing obsession toward the last years of this
intensely religious man's life. The commission came from the
Josephines, a right-wing, highly pious faction of the Catholic
Church. They were of the opinion that the decadent city
needed an expiatory (atonement) temple where its inhabitants
could go and do penance for their sins. Gaudí, whose view
of Barcelona's supposed decadence largely mirrored that of
the Josephines, by all accounts had a free hand; money was
no object, nor was there a deadline. As Gaudí is known to
have said, "My client [God] is in no hurry." Literally dripping
in symbolism, the Sagrada Família was conceived to be a
"catechism in stone." The basic design followed that of a
Gothic church, with transepts, aisles, and a central nave.
Apart from the riot of stone carvings, the grandeur of the
structure comes from the elongated towers: four above each
of the three facades (representing the apostles) reaching
100m (329 ft.), with four more (the evangelists) shooting up
from the central section at a lofty 170m (558 ft.). The words
SANCTUS, SANCTUS, SANCTUS, HOSANNA IN EXCELSIUS
(Holy, Holy, Holy, Glory to God in the Highest) are written on
these, further embellished with colorful geometric tilework. The
last tower, being built over the apse, will be higher still and
dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It is the two completed facades,
however, that are the biggest crowd pleasers. The oldest, and
the only one to be completed while the architect was alive, is
the Nativity Facade on the Carrer Marina. So rich in detail,
upon first glance it seems like a wall of molten wax. As the
name suggests, the work represents the birth of Jesus; its
entire expanse is crammed with figurines of the Holy Family,
flute-bearing angels, and an abundance of flora and fauna.
Nature was Gaudí's passion; he spent hours studying its forms
in the countryside of his native Reus, south of Barcelona, and
much of his work is inspired by nature. On the Nativity facade,
he added birds, mushrooms, even a tortoise to go along with
the rest of the religious imagery. The central piece is the "Tree
of Life," a Cyprus tree scattered with nesting white doves. On
the opposite side, the Passion Facade is a harsh counterpart
to the fluidity of the Nativity Facade. It is the work of Josep M.
Subirachs, a well-known Catalan sculptor who, like Gaudí, has
set up a workshop inside the church to complete his work. His
highly stylized, elongated figures are of Christ's passion and
death, from Last Supper to the Crucifixion. The work, started
in 1952, has been highly criticized. In the book Barcelona,
art critic Robert Hughes called it "the most blatant mass of
half-digested moderniste clichés to be plunked on a notable
building within living memory." Despite his and dozens of other
voices of dissent, work moves forward. In 1936, anarchists
attacked the church (as they did many others in the city),
destroying the plans and models Gaudí had left behind. The
present architects, aided by modern technology, are working
from photographs of those models. The central nave is starting
to take shape and the Glory Facade is limping along. It is
estimated that the whole thing will be completed by 2026 (the
centenary of Gaudí's death), funded entirely by visitors and
private donations. Admission includes a 12-minute video on
Gaudí's religious and secular works as well as entrance to the
38
museum, where fascinating reconstructions of Gaudí's original
models are on show. © Frommer's
contact:
tel: 93-317-39-74
fax: +34 93 472 5772
http://www.palauguell.cat/
location:
Nou de la Rambla 3-5
Barcelona 08001
hours:
Tue-Sat 10am-2:30pm
3 Palau Güell
DESCRIPTION: This mansion is an important early work of
Antoni Gaudí. Built between 1885 and 1889, it was the first
major commission the architect received from Eusebi Güell, the
wealthy industrialist who went onto become Gaudí's lifelong
friend and patron. A plot was chosen just off Les Ramblas in
the lower Raval district, more for its close proximity to Güell's
father's residence than anything else, and Gaudí was given
carte blanche. Although much of the marble for the town
house was supplied by Güell's own quarry, it is said that his
accountants criticized the architect on more than one occasion
for his heavy-handed spending. However, Sr. Güell himself,
as much a lover of the arts as Gaudí was, wished to impress
his family and Barcelona's high society with an extravagant
showpiece. He got his wish. Sometimes heavy-handed in detail,
the work's genius lies in its layout and inspired interconnected
spaces. The facade of the building is Venetian in style and
marked by two huge arched entrances protected by intricate
forged iron gates and a shield of Catalonia, lending it a fortresslike appearance. The interior of the Palau Güell can only be
viewed by guided tour. First you'll see the basement stables,
which feature the nature-obsessed architect's signature
columns with mushroom capitals, then you ascend again to
view the interconnected floors. The first, the anteroom, is in fact
four salons. Most of the surfaces are dark, lending the rooms a
heaviness, with Moorish-style detailing predominant throughout.
Lightness comes in the form of an ingenious system that filters
natural light via a constellation of perforated stars inlaid in a
parabolic dome above the central hall. Also outstanding is the
screened, street-facing gallery that sweeps the entire length
of the facade, letting light into all salons except the "ladies
room," where female visitors did their touchups before being
received by Sr. Güell. The ceilings of the first floor, in oak and
bulletwood, are beautifully decorated with foliage, starting off
as buds in the first room and in full bloom by the fourth. The
dining room and the private apartments contain some original
furniture, a sumptuous marble staircase, and a magnificent
fireplace designed by architect Camil Oliveras, a regular
collaborator with Gaudí. But visitors are usually most impressed
by the roof, with its army of centurion-like trencadis-covered
chimneys. These chimneys, along with the rest of the building,
were given an overhaul in the mid-1990s, and their tilework
was restored; see if you can spot the one bearing a fragment
of the Olympic mascot Cobi. Note: At the time of this writing,
the building was closed for repairs scheduled to last until spring
2007. © Frommer's
wcities
39
contact:
tel: 93-443-94-70
www.fundaciomiro-bcn.org
location:
Barcelona
hours:
July-Sept Tues-Wed and
Fri-Sat 10am-8pm; OctJune Tues-Wed and FriSat 10am-7pm; year-round
Thurs 10am-9:30pm and Sun
10am-2:30pm
contact:
tel: +34 93 368 9700(Tourist
Information)
http://www.barcelonaturisme.
com/
location:
La Rambla
Barcelona Barcelona 08002
4 Fundació Joan Miró
DESCRIPTION: Born in 1893, Joan Miró was one of Spain's
greatest artists, and along with Tàpies, the undisputed
master of contemporary Catalan art. His work is known for its
whimsical abstract forms, brilliant colors, and surrealism. Some
10,000 works, including paintings, graphics, and sculptures, are
collected here. Constructed in the early 1970s, the building was
designed by Catalan architect Josep Lluis Sert, a close friend
of Miró (he also designed the artist's workroom in Majorca).
Set in the parkland of Montjuïc, the museum consists of a
series of white, rationalist-style galleries with terra-cotta floors.
Claraboias (skylights) ensure that the space is bathed in
natural light. Its hilltop setting affords some wonderful views of
Barcelona, especially from the rooftop terrace that also serves
as a sculpture garden. The collection, donated by the artist
himself, is so huge that only a portion of it can be shown at
any one time. There is also a gallery put aside for temporary
exhibitions, dedicated either to an aspect of Miró's work or to
a contemporary artist or movement. Concerts are held in the
gardens in the summer months. The first gallery holds two of
the collection's treasures: the magnificent 1979 Foundation
Tapestry, which Miró executed especially for the space, and
the extraordinary Mercury Fountain, a work by his friend
the American sculptor Alexander Calder. In contrast to Miró's
painting, which was nearly always carried out in a primary
color palette, there is a huge collection of drawings from his
days as student. It's obvious that, even as a young man, he
had a deep sense of national identity and "Catalanism," which
(logically) later led to an extreme horror at the Spanish Civil
War. The key work representing this sentiment is the powerful
Man and Woman in Front of a Pile of Excrement (1935), in the
Pilar Juncosa Gallery, one of the so-called "Wild Paintings."
Much of Miró's work, though, is dreamlike and uplifting, with
the sun, moon, and other celestial bodies represented again
and again. Note the poetic The Gold of the Azure (1967) in the
same gallery: a transfixing blue cloud on a golden background
with dots and strokes for the planets and stars. Even if you are
already familiar with Miró's work, the excellent commentary
provided by the audio guide (available at the ticket office) will
supply you with special insight into this fascinating artist. ©
Frommer's
Photo courtesy of FundaciÃ³ Joan
MirÃ³
5 Las Ramblas
Restaurants and bars on Las Ramblas are about
three times as expensive as the side streets one or
two over. If you're watchig your pennies, you'll get
more bang for your buck if you turn the corner.
wcities
DESCRIPTION: Whether or not you've been to Barcelona,
everyone's heard of Las Ramblas. One of the most renowned
walkways in Europe and perhaps the world, this incredible
40
stretch starts at el Colon (Christopher Columbus Statue) by the
sea and extends all the way until Plaza Catalunya. Sprinkled
with street vendors selling everything from fine jewelry to caged
pigeons, the greatest attraction on Las Ramblas is the one of a
kind street performers. Depicting the most innovative costumes
it's possible to stare at a man sitting perfectly still on a toilet for
as long as it takes until someone drops a Euro in his bucket
and he makes a funny face. Overcrowded and a hot spot for
pickpockets and prostitutes, Las Ramblas is still a definite must
see if you're coming to Barcelona. © NileGuide
contact:
tel: +34 93 219 3811
fax: +34 93 284 6446
http://www.casamuseugaudi.
org/
location:
carrer d'Olot
contact:
http://www.partner.viator.com/
en/6793/tours/Barcelona/Giro
na-and-Costa-Brava-Small-Gr
oup-Day-Trip-from-Barcelona/
d562-3142GIRONA
location:
Barcelona Catalonia and
Barcelona
6 Casa Museu Gaudí
Often a line up to get into Casa Museu Gaudi, if it's busy
take a stroll around the park and come back about 30
minutes later, the lines don't last very long.
DESCRIPTION: Nestled in a ceramic mosaic wonderland, Antonio Gaudi
spent most of his life with his niece, living in Casa Museu Gaudi,a building
designed by his colleague Francesc Berenguer and situated in the
mesmerizing Park Guell. From 1906-1926, Gaudi lived in this modernist
building which is equipped with half a dozen rooms that are split between
two floors. Casa Museum Gaudi is right in the middle of the park and
today it has been converted into a museum. If you have an extra 4 Euros
it's definitely worth a look inside as the entire place (on the inside) was
furnished and designed by Gaudi himself. Gaudi's Casa is open daily from
10am-8pm and closed on Catalan holidays. © NileGuide
wcities
Girona and Costa Brava Small Group
Day Trip from Barcelona
Check out the Dali museum in Figueres, just 45
minutes from Girona. Worth the visit.
DESCRIPTION: On this day trip from Barcelona, you will
visit the city of Girona in the north east of Catalonia before
continuing to the Coastal region of Costa Brava. Leaving
Barcelona, you will head to Girona, a city with a long history,
believed to be founded around 76 BC. The river Onyar neatly
divides the city in two, separating the old town from the new.
The city has a rich architectural heritage and you can see
evidence of this in its the cathedral founded in 1038 an the
Roman walls which you can stroll along when they are open
or wander the narrow streets of the old town. Continue to the
Santuari dels Angels, this spot offers panoramic views of the
whole Girona region and is the spot Salvador Dali chose for his
wedding. From here you will make your way to Pals, a small
city that grew from a fortress. Stop here for lunch before you
head to the fishing village of Calella de Palafrugell.  The
clean lines of the whitewashed houses here will be evident
here and you'll have time to explore the rocky coastline or
viator
41
perhaps even take a dip in the inviting waters before returning
to Barcelona. © Viator
contact:
tel: +34 93 368 9730 (tourist
information)
com/
location:
Pla de la Seu
Barcelona 08002
7 Barri Gòtic
Check out the little tea houses right off of Plaza St.
Jaume. Small, quaint and untouched by tourists,
these Asian tea houses are great for relaxing and
taking it easy after a long day of walking in the
Gotico and around the city
wcities
DESCRIPTION: One of the oldest neighbourhoods in
Barcelona, the Gotico remains at the heart of Barcelona's
downtown district. Both grungy and trendy, this neighbourhood
is filled with small nooks and crannies, bars, cool restaurants,
niche shops and eclectic jewelers. Just a stone's throw from
the Born and the beach, the Gotico is home to Barcelona's
magnificent Cathedral which dates back to 14th century. It
is also home to Placa Reial, the most well known square for
backpackers as it's home to the ever so popular Kabul Hostel.
© NileGuide
location:
carrer de Roger de Flor 57
8 Arc de Triomf
DESCRIPTION: This brick arch was designed in the Mudéjar
style, as the entry gate for the 1888 Expo, by Josep Vilaseca.
The coats-of-arms, which represents all the Spanish provinces,
were placed around it, with Barcelona's in the middle—the
place of honor. On the sides of the arch are four statues of
women symbolizing fame. Other stone carvings represent
various countries' participation in the Expo, and Barcelona
thanking them for their attendance. It is not as grand as the
Paris version, perhaps, but still beautiful and worth a visit. ©
wcities.com
contact:
tel: +34 93 310 0669
http://www.catedralbcn.org/
location:
Pla de la Seu
wcities
9 Catedral La Seu
A guard will normally be standing at the main entrance of the
Cathedral checking for appropriate attire. Sometimes there is
no one there, but it's best to avoid wearing short shorts and
exposing tops just in case.
DESCRIPTION: The Cathedral la Seu is also known as the Cathedral
of Santa Eulalia, a saint whose crypt is in the cathedral and is one of
Barcelona's patron saints. This place of worship can be viewed from the
square in front of it only because several years ago it was decided that
an entire block of buildings should be torn down to better appreciate the
grandeur of the construction. The interior is a treasure box full of elaborate
wcities
42
chapels. The first one on the left displays a marble baptism basin which is
said to be the very place where Christopher Columbus brought the first six
"Indians" from the Americas to be blessed. An impressive choir, located
in the center of the central nave, is a typical characteristic of the interiors
of Spanish cathedrals. Walking through the cloister visitors can step over
the burial grounds as the tombs of the rich and important line the floor. ©
NileGuide
contact:
tel: 93-508-63-00
www.poble-espanyol.com
location:
Barcelona
hours:
Mon 9am-8pm; Tues-Thurs
9am-2am; Fri-Sat 9am-4am;
Sun 9am-midnight
contact:
tel: +34 93 368 9700
com/
location:
La Rambla
A Poble Espanyol
DESCRIPTION: This re-created Spanish village, built for the
1929 World's Fair, provokes mixed feelings: Purists see it as
the height of kitsch, while others delight in its open spaces
and Disneyland-type feel. But the question remains: Where
else would you find over 100 styles of Spanish architecture
crammed into one very pleasant spot? From the Levante to
Galicia, from Castilian high Gothic to the humble whitewashed
dwellings of the south and to colorful Basque homes -- it's
all here. At the entrance, for starters, stands a facsimile of
the gateway to the grand walled city of Avila. This leads you
to the center of the village with an outdoor cafe where you
can sit and have drinks, and there are various other venues
throughout, including the excellent flamenco taberna, the
Tablao de Carmen, and a couple of other trendy nightspots.
The big names of July's El Grec festival also play here, in the
main plaza just inside the gates. As was originally intended,
numerous shops still sell provincial crafts and souvenir items,
and in some of them you can see artists at work, printing
fabric, making pottery, and blowing glass. If you are lucky,
your visit may coincide with a wedding at the faux Sant Miquel
monastery, one of the most popular places in the city to
get married. A few years back, the Poble Espanyol added
the Fundació Fran Daural (daily 10am-7pm), a collection
of contemporary Catalan art with works by Dalí, Picasso,
Barceló, and Tàpies. Many families delight in the faux-Spanish
atmosphere, but the more discriminating find it a bit of a tourist
trap. © Frommer's
Photo courtesy of Hector Garcia
B Rambla de Canaletes (La)
DESCRIPTION: Font de Canaletes is also referred to as the Rambla de
la Font de Canaletes as it is located on the Rambla. The fountain and the
street both are very well known in Barcelona as they serve as an active
spot of discussions and celebration for the Barça fans. Previously the
fountain was fed by small pipes that threw water in a trough. However
after the demolition of the old city the fountain was rebuilt and received
its water from the Montcada mine. It is also said that 'whoever drinks the
water from the fountain will forever keep coming back to Barcelona'. ©
wcities.com
wcities
43
contact:
tel: +34 93 368 9700(Tourist
Information)
http://www.bcn.es/english/laci
utat/barcelona/360vr05.htm
location:
rambla dels Caputxins
contact:
tel: +34 93 368 9700(Tourist
Information)
www.gaudiallgaudi.com/EA10
1.htm
location:
Passeig de Gràcia 35
Barcelona 08007
contact:
tel: 93-622-03-60
fax: +34 93 622 0383
www.mnac.es
location:
Parc de Montjuïc s/n
Barcelona 08038
hours:
Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun
10am-2:30pm
C Plaça Reial
DESCRIPTION: This charming 19th-century square is just off
the Ramblas and Carrer Ferran. It was the site of a Capuchin
convent that was demolished in 1835 when Barcelona
underwent a period of urban renewal. Architect Francesc Daniel
Molina was put in charge of filling the vacant space. Plaça Reial
has undergone a number of renovations since then. The street
lamps in the shape of trees were designed by Antoni Gaudí.
The Las Tres Gracias fountain in the center dates from the end
of the 19th Century. Now Plaça Reial is a meeting point for
young people on their way to and from the nearby clubs and
bars. © wcities.com
wcities
D Casa Lleó Morera
DESCRIPTION: The last building of the trio, on the corner of Carrer del
Consell de Cent, is the Casa Lleó Morera. This florid work, completed by
Doménech i Montaner in 1906, is perhaps the least challenging of the
three, as it represents a more international style of Art Nouveau. One of
its quirkier features is the tiered wedding cake-type turret and abundance
of ornamentation. Comb the facade for a light bulb and telephone (both
inventions of the period) and a lion and mulberry bush (after the owner's
name: in Catalan, lion is lleó, and mulberry is morera). Tragically, the
ground floor has been mutilated by its tenant, who stripped the lower
facade of its detail and installed plate glass. The shop's interior, which
fared no better, is the only part of the building open to the public. ©
Frommer's
wcities
E Museu Nacional d'Art de
Catalunya (MNAC)
DESCRIPTION: This museum, which recently underwent
massive renovations and expansion, is the major depository
of Catalan art. Although its mammoth collection also covers
the Gothic period and 19th and 20th centuries, MNAC is
perhaps the most important center for Romanesque art in the
world. The majority of the sculptures, icons, and frescoes were
taken from dilapidated churches in the Pyrénées, restored,
and mounted as they would have appeared in the churches
in expertly reproduced domes and apses. Larger works are
shown with a photograph of the church and a map pointing out
its location, drawing you further into this fascinating and largely
underexposed 11th- to 13th-century movement. Simplistic yet
mesmerizing, Romanesque art is marked by elongated forms,
vivid colors, and expressiveness. Most outstanding is the Apse
of Santa María de Taüll (in Ambit [Gallery] V) with a serene,
doe-eyed Christ surrounded by the Apostles. Lapis lazuli was
used to create the intense blue in the piece. Also look out for a
series of ceiling paintings from an Aragonese chapter house. In
a more subtle color scheme, they echo Tudor miniature painting
(Ambit XI). The entire collection is in chronological order, giving
the viewer a tour of Romanesque art from its beginnings to
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44
the more advanced late Romanesque and early Gothic eras.
The next section you visit deals with the Gothic period, made
up of pieces from the 13th to 15th centuries. All styles that
were adopted in Catalonia are represented: Italianate Gothic,
Flemish Gothic, and a more linear, local Gothic style. Look
out for retablos by Jaume Huguet (Room XIII). The primary
artist in the Catalan School, Huguet mixed Flemish and Italian
influences with local Romanesque conventions. The Gothic
collection also holds some Barcelonese Gothic Quarter artifacts
such as giant object-signs (made for an illiterate population)
that used to hang outside workshops (shoes, scissors, and
the like) and other decorative pieces. The Gothic section
finishes with the Cambó collection. A bequest from a local
businessman, the selection of 14th- to 19th-century paintings
includes works by Rubens, El Greco, and Goya. Thanks to
the MNAC's most recent acquisitions -- pieces of 19th- and
20th-century decorative art and painting, most stemming from
the city's all-important moderniste movement -- the collection
now spans a millennium. While moderniste architecture in the
city is abundant, most building interiors have been stripped
bare of their mirrors, chandeliers, sculptures, and furnishings,
many designed by architects such as Gaudí. Until mid-2004
they were on display at the Museu d'Art Modern in the Parc de
la Ciutadella. At the MNAC they have a stunning new home.
Highlights of this collection, which spans the neoclassical,
Art Nouveau (or moderniste), and subsequent nou-centista
(or fin de siècle) movements are too numerous to mention.
Look out for the marquetry pieces by Gaspar Homar (a master
moderniste carpenter) and the Rodin-influenced sculptor Josep
Clara. The superb private oratory by Joan Busquets will leave
you breathless at the Art Nouveau movement's excesses and
craftsmanship. There are also many pieces taken from the
interiors of homes of the Manzana de la Discordia (earlier in
this chapter). © Frommer's
contact:
tel: 93-216-01-75
fax: +34 93 467 0194
http://www.amatller.org
location:
Barcelona BARCELONA
08007
hours:
Ground floor open to public
Mon-Sat 10am-7pm
F Casa Amatller
DESCRIPTION: Constructed in a cubical design with a Dutch
gable, this building was created by Puig i Cadafalch in 1900,
and was the first building on the manzana. It stands in sharp
contrast to its neighbor, the Gaudí-designed Casa Batlló . The
architecture of the Casa Amatller, imposed on a pre-existing
edifice, is a vision of ceramic, wrought iron, and sculptures.
The structure combines grace notes of Flemish Gothic -especially on the finish of the facade -- with elements of
Catalan architecture. The gable outside is in the Flemish style.
Look out for the sculptures of animals blowing glass and taking
photos, both hobbies of the architect. They were executed by
Eusebi Arnau, an artist much in demand by the modernistas. ©
Frommer's
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45
contact:
tel: 93-488-06-66
fax: +34 93 488 3090
http://www.casabatllo.es/
location:
Barcelona BARCELONA
08007
hours:
Mon-Sun 9am-8pm
contact:
tel: +34 93 256 21 22
fax: +34 (0)93 268 0454
http://www.museuhistoria.bcn
.es
location:
plaça del Rei
location:
via Laietana
G Casa Batlló
DESCRIPTION: Next door to the Casa Amatller, Casa Batlló was
designed by Gaudí in 1905, and is hands-down the superior of the three
works in the manzana. Using sensuous curves in iron and stone and
glittering, luminous trencadis (collage of broken tiles and ceramic) on the
facade, the Casa Batlló is widely thought to represent the legend of Saint
George (the patron saint of Catalonia) and his dragon. The balconies are
protected by imposing skull-like formations and supported by vertebraelike columns representing the dragon's victims, while the spectacular
roof is the dragon's humped and glossy scaled back. St. George can
be seen in the turret, his lance crowned by a cross. The building was
opened to the public in 2004, and although its admission price is steep
compared to many other Gaudí attractions, the interior of the building is no
less spectacular than the exterior, with sinuous staircases, flowing wood
paneling, and a stained-glass gallery supported by yet more bonelike
columns. Custom-made Gaudí-designed furniture is scattered throughout.
© Frommer's
Photo courtesy of Casa
Batlló.
H Museu d´Història de la Ciutat
DESCRIPTION: A village beneath a city. Barcelona's hidden
gem. The Museu d'Historia de la Ciutat digs into the city's past.
An audio guide, which is included in the price of admission,
explains the history of the approximately 4,000 square meters
of Roman ruins which are buried about 20 meters under the
current city's street level. These ruins were discovered in the
1920's when the city underwent an urban reformation by cutting
into the Gothic Quarter to create a major through street, the Via
Laietana. © NileGuide
.
I Muralles Romanes
DESCRIPTION: The Roman walls once completely surrounded
by the Barcino settlement. They were nine meters (30 feet) high
and 3.5 meters (11.5 feet) thick, and stretched for 1270 meters
(4170 feet). Most of the walls have disappeared or were used
as the foundations for later buildings. The best preserved parts
can be seen on Plaça de Ramon Berenguer el Gran (next to
Via Laietana), on the Avenida de la Catedral, the Pia Almoina,
Plaça dels Traginers, Carrer del Correu Vell and on Carrer
Regomir, which led to the Roman port. © wcities.com
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46
contact:
tel: +34 93 285 3834 (tourist
information)
http://www.lapedreraeducacio
.org/flash.htm
location:
passeig de Gràcia 92
Barcelona 08008
J Casa Milà
DESCRIPTION: The Casa Milá is a fine example of Modernism,
which is Cataluña's version of Art Nouveau. Organic and
flowing with images of nature at every turn, this is one of
Gaudí's many masterpieces. The sea comes to mind with the
curving balconies perhaps lined with wrought iron kelp. The
octagonal tiles inside forming starfish and other sea shapes
are also used along Passeig de Gracia's sidewalk, the street
on which the Casa Milá sits. The building is held up by pillars
and not by supporting walls creating a greater flexibility in
design especially in the façade's windows. The rooftop could
be the icing on the cake with its chimneys shaped like medieval
warriors with helmets on. Everything practical is turned into art.
While the Casa Milá was one of Gaudí's last secular buildings,
there are still inscriptions of Ave María in Latin demonstrating
the architect's strong religious self. © NileGuide
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47
Day 9 - Barcelona
QUICK NOTE
contact:
tel: +34 93 368 9700(Tourist
Information)
com/
location:
avinguda de la Reina Maria
Cristina
contact:
tel: 93-211-79-42
fax: +34 93 417 9665
http://www.tibidabo.es/
location:
Plaça Tibidabo 3
Barcelona 08035
hours:
Summer daily noon-10pm; off
season Sat-Sun noon-7pm
1 Magic Fountain
Crowds gather when the weather is superb. It's a good idea to arrive early to
scope out the best viewing spot.
DESCRIPTION: After a long day of museums, let loose at the magic Fonts. Feel like a kid again
with the excitement of the colorful fountain show set from the Plaça de Espanya to the MNAC
museum. Imagining the fountains' plumbing system below is mind boggling, not to mention
counting the over four thousand light fixtures used to create the magic. While the light, water, and
music show is flowing, the Art Deco flair of the 1929 fountains is often overlooked. The magic
is choreographed to varied musical medleys, and is not to be missed on a warm summer night.
Winter shows are on Friday and Saturday nights, and spring and summer shows are from Thursday
to Sunday. © NileGuide
2 Parc d'Atraccions (Tibidabo)
DESCRIPTION: The mountain of Tibidabo has been a popular
retreat for Barcelonese since 1868, when a road was built
connecting it to the city. You arrive there on the creaky old
funicular -- or less dramatically by bus -- to find yourself
confronted by an amusement park that combines tradition
with modernity. In summer, the place takes on a carnival-like
atmosphere, and most of the credit for this can go to a wealthy
pill manufacturer by the name of Dr. Andreu who believed (quite
sensibly) that fresh, mountain air was good for your health. He
created the Sociedad Anónima de Tibidabo, which promoted
the slopes as a public garden and was instrumental in installing
both the blue tram and aforementioned funicular which get
you there. Some of the attractions in the park date back from
Andreu's time. L'Avio, for example, is a quaint replica of the
first plane that served the Barcelona-Madrid route. In the
Tibidabo version, you are treated to a whisk over the summit
in a toy-like craft suspended from a central axis. Another dated
attraction designed to scare you out of your wits is Aeromàgic,
an exhilarating mountain ride which is greatly enhanced by the
elevated position of the park itself. On a more relaxed level
you can also visit a charming museum of period automatons.
The church next to the amusement park is Temple de Sagrat
Cor, an ugly and highly kitschy building dating from 1902 that
was meant to provide Barcelona with its own Sacré Coeur. Its
distinctive mountaintop silhouette can be seen from all over the
city. © Frommer's
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48
contact:
tel: +34 93 424 3809
fax: +34 93 423 8464
http://www.bcn.es/parcsijardin
s/pa_llobera.htm
location:
carretera de Miramar 1-13
contact:
tel: +34 93 368 9700(Tourist
Information)
http://www.casavicens.es/
location:
Carrer de les Carolines 18-24
Barcelona 08012
contact:
tel: +34 93 3496 3600
fax: +34 93 411 2219
http://www.fcbarcelonaweb.co
m/campnou.htm
location:
carrer d'Arístides Maillol 12
Barcelona 08028
contact:
tel: +34 93 368 9700(Tourist
Information)
location:
carrer Pla de Matabous
3 Jardins de Mossèn Costa I
Llobera
DESCRIPTION: Located on Montjuïc Mountain, these gardens
span some 60,000 square meters, and were opened to the
public in 1970. They have exotic plants from Kenya, Ethiopia
and Mexico, as well as standard Mediterranean species, such
as pines. The gardens are named after a poet who wrote
an ode to the Pi de Formentor (a pine tree from the Balearic
Islands). This is a lovely place to walk and a good stop-off on
the way to the top of the mountain. © wcities.com
wcities
4 Casa Vicens
DESCRIPTION: Although this early work of Gaudí can only be viewed
from the exterior, the exuberance of its facade and form make the trip
well worthwhile. The architect accepted the commission for a summer
residence from the tile manufacturer Manuel Vicens i Montaner in 1883,
making the Casa Vicens one of the first examples of Art Nouveau not only
in Barcelona but in the whole of Europe. Since the home was designed
to be an exponent of Sr. Vicen's business, the entire facade is covered
with florid, vividly colored tiles. At the time, Gaudí was deeply influenced
by North African and Middle Eastern architecture, and this can be seen
in the home's form. Its overall opulence and exoticism, with minarets and
corbels, is reminiscent of the Indian Raj style. Inside, Ottoman, Koranic,
and Andalusian influences can also be seen in eccentric touches such
as the Turkish-style smoking room. The residence, on a narrow Graciàn
street, is owned by descendants of Sr. Vicens and is still a private home
(although they seem to have no objections to camera-flashing tourists).
The interior, however, has been well photographed, and is always featured
in books on Gaudí. © Frommer's
Photo courtesy of Casa
Vicens
5 Camp Nou
DESCRIPTION: The Nou Camp or Camp Nou in Spanish, is one of the largest football Stadium
in Spain. Built in 1957, this is the home of the FC Barcelona, commonly known as 'barca' to the
locals. The ground is also known as 'The house that Kubala built'. In the 1950s, Kubula used to be
a great goal scorer. This Hungarian was so popular with the spectators that the stadium was unable
to accomadate the sheer number of supporters who wanted to watch him. A new bigger stadium
was eventually built. Now, it can accomadate 98,000 fans. © wcities.com
6 Plaça Espanya
There's plenty of public transportation that provides
easy access to Placa Espanya.The best way to get
there however, while seeing the city at the same
time, is to go by foot.
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49
DESCRIPTION: Situated at the foot of Montjuic, in the distric
of Sants-Montjuic, lies Placa Espanya. One of Barcelona's
most well known squares and designed by one of Gaudi's
disciples, Placa Espanya is a great place to visit not only for its
famous 'magic fountain' performance, but because of its close
proximity to almost everything. It's just a short walk from the
up and coming barrio, Poble Sec and is also walking distance
to cool sites such as the National Art Museum of Catalonia,
one of Spain's finest. Originally built in 1929 to be used for
the Universal Exposition, today Placa Espanya is used by the
public for all types of gatherings and events. © NileGuide
contact:
tel: +34 93 317 39 74
http://www.gaudiallgaudi.com
/AA010.htm
location:
carrer d'Olot
7 Parc Güell
The best way to access Park Guell is to get off at
Vallcarca metro on the green line and follow the
signs. It's no more than a 10 minute walk.
DESCRIPTION: One of Barcelona's greatest attractions and
one of the few that are absolutely free, is Gaudi's incredible
Park Guell. Get anywhere near the Vallcarca stop on the green
line and you'll see tourists lumped together, maps in hand,
asking locals for Park 'Guay'. Designed and built by Gaudi
between 1900 and 1914, this spectacular mix of garden, park
and architectural dream is a small oasis within Barcelona. From
the mosaic benches, to the meticulously tiled rooftops, Park
Guell is both fascinating as it is serene. One of the best places
to spend a sunny day, the park is a great place to listen to
music, enjoy a few copas of vino or just relax with a good book.
© NileGuide
contact:
tel: +34 93 368 9700(Tourist
Information)
location:
passeig de Gràcia
.
8 Plaça Catalunya
There's a great vibe during night time in Placa
Catalunya. For more of a 'local' feel, take a seat in
the square and buy 1 Euro beers from the guys in
the streets.
.
DESCRIPTION: If coming to Barcelona, you have to frequent
Placa Catalunya. One of, if not the most popular plaza in
Barcelona, this 5000 meter square is the cross roads between
where the old city and the new city meet. Sitting at the top of
the Gotico and Raval and leading into the Eixample and Gracia
neighbourhoods, Placa Catalunya is not only a landmark but
a gathering point for locals and tourists alike. Hosting outdoor,
free concerts and celebrations, Placa Catalunya is right next
to El Corte Ingles, FNAC and an abundance of other popular
shops and cafes. There's always something happening in the
50
plaza, even if it's just hippies sitting and playing guitar while
children run around screaming, it's never dull. © NileGuide
51
Day 10 - Barcelona, Andorra la Vella,
Marseilles
QUICK NOTE
contact:
tel: +34 93 368 9700(Tourist
Information)
http://w110.bcn.cat/portal/site/
MediAmbient/menuitem.0d4d
06202ea41e13e9c5e9c5a2ef
8a0c/
location:
passeig de Picasso 1
Barcelona 08005
hours:
Daily sunrise-sunset
contact:
tel: +34 93 225 9220
fax: +34 93 225 9221
http://www.pobasa.es/
location:
carrer de la Marina
1 Parc de la Ciutadella
DESCRIPTION: Barcelona's most formal park is also the one
most steeped in history. The area was formerly a loathed
citadel, built by Phillip V after he won the War of the Spanish
Succession (Barcelona was on the losing side). He ordered that
the "traitorous" residential suburb be leveled. Between 1715
and 1718, over 60 streets and residences were torn down to
make way for the structure, without any compensation to the
owners (although many were relocated to the neighborhood of
Barceloneta). It never really functioned as a citadel, but was
used as a political prison during subsequent uprisings and
occupations. Once the decision to pull down the old city walls
was made in 1858, the government decided that the citadel
should go, too. Work on the park began in 1872, and in 1887
and 1888 the World's Fair was held on its grounds, with the
nearby Arc de Triomf serving as the event's grandiose main
entrance. Today lakes, gardens, and promenades fill most of
the park, which also holds a zoo . Gaudí contributed to the
monumental, Italianate fountain in the park when he was a
student; the lampposts are also his. Other highlights include the
Hivernacle, an elegant, English-style hothouse with an adjacent
cafe and the unusual Umbracle, a glasshouse that contains no
glass but whose facades are of bare brick with wooden louvers.
Both these structures are on the Passeig de Picasso flank of
the park. On the opposite side bordering Calle Wellington is
the old arsenal, which now accommodates the parliament of
Catalonia. © Frommer's
wcities
2 Port Olímpic
Dress code and prices are slightly more upscale in
these clubs. Try going during the week, for cheaper
prices and more space on the dance floor.
DESCRIPTION: This entertainment and leisure zone was built
in 1988 for the 1992 Olympic Games, and has become the
most successful and popular part of the Nova Icària project.
Most people come here to enjoy the nightlife on offer in the
bars, restaurants and dance clubs. During the day it's busy with
shoppers as well. The area is bordered by the impressive twin
skyscrapers - Mapfre Tower and Hotel Arts Barcelona. Rent the
speedboats here for tours of the port. © wcities.com
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52
contact:
tel: 93-319-63-10
http://www.museupicasso.bcn
.es
location:
Montcada 15-23
Barcelona 08003
hours:
Tues-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun
10am-3pm
3 Museu Picasso
DESCRIPTION: Five medieval mansions on this street contain this
museum of the work of Pablo Picasso (1881-1973). The bulk of the
art was donated by Jaume Sabartés y Gual, a lifelong friend of the
artist. Although born in Malaga, Picasso moved to the Catalan capital
in 1895 after his father was awarded a teaching job at the city's Fine
Arts Academy in La Llotja. The family settled in the Calle Merce and
when Picasso was a bit older, he moved to the Nou de Les Ramblas in
the Barrio Chino. Although he left Spain for good at the outbreak of the
Civil War -- and refused to return while Franco was in power -- he was
particularly fond of Barcelona, where he spent his formative years painting
its seedier side and hanging around with the city's bohemians. As a sign
of his love for the city, and adding to Sabartés enormous bequest, Picasso
donated some 2,500 of his paintings, engravings, and drawings to the
museum in 1970. All of these were executed in his youth (in fact, some
of the paintings were done when he was only 9), and the collection is
particularly strong on his Blue and Rose Periods. Many works show the
artist's debt to van Gogh, El Greco, and Rembrandt. The highlight of the
collection is undoubtedly Las Meninas, a series of 59 interpretations of
Velázquez's masterpiece. Another key work is The Harlequin, a painting
clearly influenced by the time the artist spent with the Ballet Russes in
Paris. It was his first bequest to Barcelona. In addition to the key works
here, many visitors are transfixed by his notebooks containing dozens
of sketches of Barcelona street scenes and characters -- proof of his
extraordinary and often overlooked drawing talents. Because the works
are arranged in rough chronological order, you can get a wonderful sense
of Picasso's development and watch as he discovered a trend or had a
new idea, mastered it, grew bored with it, and then was off to something
new. You'll learn that Picasso was a master portraitist and did many
traditional representational works before his flights of fancy took off.
The exhibits in the final section ("The Last Years") were donated by his
widow Jacqueline and include ceramic and little-known collage work. ©
Frommer's
wcities
contact:
Montserrat, Gaudi and Modernism
http://www.partner.viator.com/
en/6793/tours/Barcelona/Mont Small Group Day Trip from Barcelona
serrat-Gaudi-and-ModernismDESCRIPTION: The Montserrat, Gaudi and Modernism tour
Small-Group-Day-Trip-from-B is a unique chance to combine two of Barcelona's most iconic
arcelona/d562-3142GAUDI
attractions: the stunning Montserrat and the extraordinary
location:
Barcelona Catalonia and
Barcelona
genius of Anton Gaudi, all in a small and personal group. In
the morning you will visit the unmistakable Montserrat, home to
the famous Black Virgin. But this visit is much more than that.
Discover silent paths, stunning views over the 'stone needles',
and secret corners on this unforgettable spiritual mountain
retreat.  After lunch, you will journey to the Colonia Guell,
one of the most complete but also most forgotten works of
Gaudi. Escape from the waiting lines, from the crowds, and the
souvenir shops. Thanks to this remote location in the middle of
a pine forest, this Gaudi masterpiece has escaped the mass
tourism you will normally find at his other works. Finally, finish
the day in Park Guell, the magical city garden in Barcelona
designed by Anton Gaudi and featuring some of his most
creative design. See the famous mosaic lizard and strange
'Gingerbread Houses' that enchant visitors of all ages. You can
viator
53
choose to end your tour with a longer stay at Park Guell, or
after a short stay return to central Barcelona. © Viator
location:
Aigüestortes i Estany de St
Maurici National Park, 25597
Espot, Spain
contact:
tel: +33 491 13 8900
location:
Corniche du Président John
Fitzgerald Kennedy
Marseille 13007
4 Aigüestortes i Estany de St Maurici National Park,
25597 Espot
DESCRIPTION: Gorgeous mountain area famous for its alpine lakes and water streams. Good for
all level of hikes, but also for an easy day excursion around the largest lake, Sant Maurici. Part of
it is also adapted to wheelchairs. Private cars have a restricted access, so make sure to be there
early in the morning or you'll have to hire one of the park's taxis to take you to the lake. Don't miss
the thousand-year-old churches in the nearby Bohí-Taüll valley, declared Human Heritage by the
UNESCO. © Marta Laurent
5 Mémorial des Rapatriés
DESCRIPTION: Situated on Promenade Kennedy, this immense ship's
propeller made of bronze was erected in 1971, in memory of those
repatriated from North Africa. It was created by Marseillaise sculptor César
to mark the exodus of the early 1960s which flowed into the city. As you
look at the sculpture, your gaze is led from the unusual shape towards
the horizon, and beyond, to the other shores of the Mediterranean. ©
wcities.com
wcities
contact:
tel: +33 491 13 8900
location:
Place Jules Guesde
Marseille 13003
6 Arc de Triomphe de la Porte d'Aix
DESCRIPTION: Modelled on the ancient Arc d'Orange, this monument
was constructed by Penchaud in 1823 to commemorate the victories of
the French Revolution and the First Empire, and as a tribute to the glory of
the Republic, the Consulate, and the Empire. With its inscriptions and basreliefs, and sculpture by David d'Angers and Ramey, the arch marks the
old entrance to the city. Admission: Free © wcities.com
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54
contact:
tel: +33 491 13 8900
location:
Place Castellane
Marseille 13006
7 Fontaine Castellane
DESCRIPTION: At the crossroads of Rue de Rome, Boulevard Baille and
Avenues Jules Cantini and du Prado, you will find Place Castellane. In
the center of the square stands a monumental fountain, presented to the
city by mason Jules Cantini and given shape by Marseillaise sculptor Allar
in 1911. The Rhône, the Mediterranean, the Source and the Torrent are
all represented on the pedestal in order to depict the journey of the River
Rhône from its source to the Mediterranean. On top of the pedestal is a
statue to symbolize Marseille itself. © wcities.com
wcities
contact:
8 Fort Saint-Jean
tel: +33 4 9613 8900
fax: +33 4 9613 8098
http://www.musee-europemed DESCRIPTION: Standing at the southern entrance to the
iterranee.org/
Vieux-Port on the north bank, Fort Saint-Jean was built to
location:
Quai Du Port
Marseille 13002
contact:
tel: +33 4 9113 8900(Tourist
Information)
fax: +33 4 9113 8920(Tourist
Information)
http://www.marseille-tourisme
.com/
location:
Corner of Rue Bonneterie and
Grand'Rue
Marseille 13002
protect the old town. Dating back to the end of the 12th
Century, it is named after the religious order of Saint-Jeande-Jerusalem. The square Roy René tower was added to the
port side of the fort in the 15th Century, and the look-out tower
was added to the seaward side in the 18th Century. Exhibitions
and visits to the Roy René tower are regularly organized. ©
wcities.com
wcities
9 Hotel de Cabre
DESCRIPTION: Built in 1535 for the wives of Cabre, this is
the oldest house in Marseilles. The main part of the Medieval
residence was destroyed in the devastation of 1943. As a
result, you will notice a mixture of styles incorporating both
Gothic and Renaissance style of architecture. The Hôtel de
Cabre is situated in the old town, near Rue de la République
(one of Marseilles' largest streets dating back to Imperial times)
and the Vieux-Port. © wcities.com
Photo courtesy of Hotel de Cabre
55
contact:
tel: +33 491 13 8900
location:
Promenade GeorgesPompidou
Marseille 13008
contact:
tel: +33 491 13 8920
location:
Gare St-Charles
Marseille 13001
contact:
tel: +33 4 9113 8900(Tourist
Information)
fax: +33 4 9113 8920(Tourist
Information)
http://www.marseille-tourisme
.com
location:
Place de la Major
Marseille 13002
A Statue du David (La)
DESCRIPTION: At the roundabout on Prado Beach, where Avenue du
Prado and Promenade Georges Pompidou meet, stands an imposing
statue around 5m tall. It is a copy of Michelangelo's famous "David" in
Carrara marble, and was presented to the city by marble sculptor Jules
Cantini in 1903. Created between 1501 and 1504, "David" was the largest
marble scuplture created since Antiquity. It was placed at the entrance
of the Palazzo Vecchio and came to symbolise Florence's supremacy
over the rest of the world. It is impossible not to admire the statue of the
young shepherd and slayer of Goliath, with his large, expressive hands,
his sling at his side, and a body which combines great beauty, grace and
athleticism. © wcities.com
wcities
B Escalier de la gare Saint-Charles
DESCRIPTION: In 1908, Marseilles' town council launched a
project for architects to design a monumental stairway outside
the station, the contract being awarded to architects Serres and
Arnal. The construction of the staircase which dominates the
city with its 104 steps was undertaken between 1925 and 1927,
and the inauguration took place a year later in 1928 (the station
itself was opened in 1848) with the arrival of then President
of the Republic - Gaston Doumergue.Adorned with statues
which depict the glories of France's African and Asian colonies,
evoking Marseilles' commercial past, the stairway is of both
historical and architectural importance and has become part of
the city's heritage. Indeed, scenes from Jacques Deray's film
Borsalino (1970) were filmed on its steps. © wcities.com
wcities
C Cathédrale de la Major (Basilique
Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure)
DESCRIPTION: This Roman-Byzantine cathedral was built in the
middle of the 19th Century by Léon Vaudoyer, on the remains of the
ancient Roman-Provençal 'Major' building which dates back to the 12th
Century. With a capacity of 3000, it is the largest cathedral in France
since the Middle Ages. The marble slabs, impressive porphyry columns
and mosaics reflect the cathedral's true splendor, complemented by
magnificent altars from the 12th and 15th centuries, and earthenware from
the Della Robbia workshop are worth watching. © wcities.com
wcities
56
contact:
tel: +33 491 13 8900
location:
140 Boulevard Longchamp
Marseille 13001
contact:
tel: +34 93 4262089
http://www.barnapro.com
location:
passeig Olímpic 5-7
D Palais Longchamp
DESCRIPTION: The Palais Longchamp - designed by architect
Espérandieu - was built in conjunction with the construction
of the canal in 1839. The arrival of water from the Durance
in 1849 allowed the town to supply the new districts to the
east.Today, the waterfalls, ornamental lakes, fountains and
numerous sculptures give this enchanting place an Italian
Renaissance feel. Housing Marseilles' Fine Arts Museum
in its left wing and the Natural History Museum in the right,
this watery palace - a masterpiece of the Second Empire commemorates and unites the glory of water, the arts and the
sciences under one magnificent roof. © wcities.com
wcities
E Palau Sant Jordi
For the best concert experience at Palau Sant Jordi,
get the seats a bit higher up in the middle.
DESCRIPTION: Referred to as the 'intelligent building', this
avant garde, multipurpose complex is both breathtaking as it is
practical. With a capacity to hold up to 17 000 spectators and a
car park for 5000 vehicles, the Palau Sant Jordi is a versatile,
modern, one of a kind stadium, illustrating Barcelona's ability
for forward thinking. Built in 1990, the Palau Sant Jordi was one
of the main venues used during the 1992 Summer Olympics
and was praised for its flexibility and adaptability. Today it is
used for sporting events, festivals and concerts and is just a
stones throw from Placa Espanya, thus centrally located and
easily accessible by foot. © NileGuide
wcities
57
Day 11 - Cannes, Nice
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: http://www.campingrossignol.com/content/gb/area/6/ 18 eura camp, address 2074 av. Michard Pelissier
.
06600 Antibes
.
: Шеталиштето ла Кроазет, Филмската палата,
.
плажата на фотомодели, Авенијата на палатите. Посета на фабриката за парфеми Фрагонард-Галимард во ЕЗЕ
contact:
tel: +33 493 39 1749
location:
Place de la Castre 1
Cannes 06400
contact:
tel: 33 (0) 1 53 59 61 00
http://www.festival-cannes.co
m/
location:
Cannes
Cannes
contact:
tel: +33 4 9394 5636
fax: +33 4 9394 6365
location:
boulevard de la Croisette
Cannes 06400
1 Notre-Dame d'Espérance
DESCRIPTION: Completed in 1648, Notre-Dame d'Espérance is a
beautiful Provençal Gothic church. Its charm lies in its wood paneling,
which dates back to the 14th and 15th Century. Also worth a look is the
collection of 19th-century paintings, which includes a fresco by George
Roux that portrays the baptism of Christ. Statues of Saint Anne and NotreDame d'Espérance (both in gilded wood) from the 15th and 18th Centuries
are worth checking out. Situated on top of Suquet hill in old Cannes, the
church offers visitors a fabulous view of the town and its bay. One of
fishermen's favorite saints, Notre-Dame d'Espérance is also called upon to
heal the sick. © wcities.com
.
2 Cannes Film Festival
DESCRIPTION: The Cannes Film Festival (French: le Festival
de Cannes), founded in 1946, is one of the world's oldest and
most prestigious film festivals.[1][2] The private festival is held
annually (usually in May) at the Palais des Festivals et des
Congrès, in the resort town of Cannes, in the south of France
(wikipedia). © rfiguracion
.
3 Calao Plage
DESCRIPTION: Get set to have a blast at Calao beach,
primely located between the Carlton and Martinez hotels on
La Croisette. Take advantage of a variety of seasonal menus
for evening receptions along with specially organized musical
performances. Arrangements can also be made for themed
nights or banquets in the florally decorated reception rooms.
Deck chairs, locker rooms, warm showers, private sun decks,
video games, table football, billiards, table tennis, pedal-boat
rental, water-skiing, and massages are also offered. Season
tickets and group discounts are available. © wcities.com
.
58
contact:
tel: +33 4 9713 4201
fax: +33 4 9713 4202
http://www.mamac-nice.org/
location:
Promenade des Arts
Nice 06364
contact:
tel: +33 8 9270 7407(Tourist
Information)
fax: +33 4 9214 4649(Tourist
Information)
location:
Promenade des Anglais
Nice 06000
4 Jardin d'Eden
DESCRIPTION: Situated on the roof terraces of Nice's modern
art museum, musée d'Art Moderne et d'Art Contemporain
(MAMAC), this little garden and wall walk is a curious sight.
Nevertheless, the garden boasts a truly wonderful view over
Nice-the modern city as well as the old town with its red-tiled
rooftops, and the range of hills that encircle the city. A few
artistic works are scattered along the length of this Garden of
Eden, and sound recordings create the impression of being
in the heart of the forest, treating your ears to birdsong and
rustling leaves. Access to the garden can only be gained
through the museum. © wcities.com
Photo courtesy of Jardin d'Eden.
5 Promenade des Anglais
DESCRIPTION: A big favorite with locals and visitors alike, attracting
roller-bladers, cyclists and dog owners, Promenade des Anglais hugs
the seashore for several kilometers. The promenade's characteristic blue
chairs, scattered along the way, provide the perfect vantage point from
which to take in the expanse of azure blue stretching as far as the eye can
see. It took its current form in 1822, when Lewis Way, an Englishman who
lived in Nice during the winter months, financed the two-meter wide path.
It is free of charge to stroll, bask in the sun, and enjoy the pleasures of
Nice's beaches. © wcities.com
wcities
contact:
tel: +33 4 9341 2600 (Tourist
Information)
http://www.nice.fr/Environnem
ent/Espaces-verts-et-biodiver
site/Forets-promenades-parc
s-jardins-et-squares/Le-Jardin
-Albert-1er/%28language%29
/fre-FR
location:
Place Masséna
Nice 6000
contact:
tel: +33 4 9338 0181
location:
58 boulevard de la Croisette
Cannes 06400
6 Jardin Albert Ier
DESCRIPTION: This is the ideal place to take a break and
unwind before continuing a tour of the city. It is a haven of
tranquillity with a large lawn, fountains, pine and palm trees,
and inviting blue chairs, perfectly placed to connect VieuxNice, the city centre and the seaside Promenade des Anglais.
The kids will be delighted to ride in the charming wrought-iron
merry-go-round, playing cheery tunes when it is in operation.
This garden named after the Belgian king, Albert I is amongst
the oldest gardens in the city. © wcities.com
wcities
7 Galerie du Carlton
DESCRIPTION: Do stop by at Gallery du Carlton, which is
located at The Carlton Hotel or you'll regret it. It displays a
fine collection of paintings, sculptures as well as glassware.
The works of greats, such as Chagall, Matisse, Picasso,
Renoir, Utrillo and Vlaminck is what you'll find here. The
.
59
gallery is interested in purchasing as well as selling artwork. ©
wcities.com
contact:
tel: +33 4 93 92 82 82
fax: +33 4 93 92 82 98
location:
Montée du Chateau
Nice 6300
contact:
tel: +33 4 93 39 24 53
location:
Boulevard de la Croisette
Cannes 06400
8 Colline du Château
DESCRIPTION: Situated on the hill between the old town and
the harbor, this park is a favorite with locals and tourists alike.
Surrounded by a typically Mediterranean backdrop of pine
trees, carobs, figs, and aloes, the park's impressive waterfall,
children's play area, breathtaking views over the city, medieval
ruins and Maritime Museum are all part of its appeal. Get here
on foot, by car or take the lift from Rue des Ponchettes at the
foot of Bellanda Tower. © wcities.com
wcities
9 Croisette (La)
DESCRIPTION: La Croisette gets its name from a small cross
that used to stand east of the bay. A favorite spot for locals and
visitors alike, this wonderful promenade, in the heart of town,
hugs the seashore and its beaches for several kilometers. To
one side there's the Mediterranean, the Lérins Islands off the
coast, and the Estérel mountain range. On the other, there
are palm trees, elegant belle époque hotels and fashionable
boutiques. It is an ideal place to people-watch, especially
during the Film Festival. The place was created during the 19th
Century, © wcities.com
wcities
60
Day 12 - Milan
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: http://www.campingamicidilazise.it/camper_stop.htm - Lago di garda 25 eura
.
http://www.camperonline.it/area_di_sosta_dettaglio.asp?ID=3495 Lazgo di garda odma do nekoj kamp i do avtoptot GPS:45.44136 N 10.67848 E
.
location:
Piazzale 24 Maggio
Milan 20123
1 Porta Ticinese
DESCRIPTION: On the original Roman road that led to Pavia from Milan,
what you see of Porta Ticinese today is only a part of the Neo-Classical
design that was submitted by Luigi Cagnola. His ideas included bastions
- since dismantled - and the square in the direction of the village of San
Gottardo between vast buildings that were to house the local market
and receiving office. These buildings were to lie on either side of the
gateway and symmetrical to the road, thereby redefining the entire area.
The project was begun in 1801 to celebrate the victory of Napoleon at
the battle of Marengo in 1800 and the arrival of the French troops from
that direction, but construction was halted in 1814 after only the gate and
the two toll-gates at the sides had been finished. The building is made
from pink granite from Baveno (today blackened by smog and grime) in
Vitruvian Doric style. The massive pillars and columns crowned by the
large tympanum is one of the most representative Milanese works of NeoClassical architecture. © wcities.com
contact:
tel: +39 02 7252 4301
fax: +39 2 80 9662
location:
2 Piazza dei Mercanti
Milan 20121
wcities
2 Palace of Giureconsulti
DESCRIPTION: This ancient medieval building, that once housed
municipal offices and legal institutions, was rebuilt from 1562 on as
'Palazzo dei Giureconsulti' to a design by Vincenzo Seregni. The building,
formed by a loggia and a tower, a 16th-century sheath built around
the original 13th-century construction, is based on the architecture of
Galeazzo Alessi. The complete design included an overall refurbishment
of the ancient Piazza Mercanti to create a new forum, and this was
partially executed with the construction, on the south side of the piazza,
of the 'Scuole Palatine' building. In the 19th century, the street named
Via Mercanti was opened up, totally modifying the original concept and
rendering it totally unrecognizable. © wcities.com
wcities
contact:
3 Teatro alla Scala
tel: +39 02 8 8791
fax: +39 02 86 1827
http://www.teatroallascala.org/ DESCRIPTION: Conceived in 1776 as a fitting replacement for
location:
Via Filodrammatici 2
Milan 20121
the Teatro Ducale (sadly destroyed by fire), the famous Teatro
alla Scala has since become one of opera's legendary venues.
Home to the prestigious La Scala di Milano opera company, it
remains one of the city's liveliest cultural venues.  Apart
from opera shows, guests will also enjoy the plays, ballet shows
wcities
61
and numerous other cultural events held here throughout the
year. Check the website for calendar of events. © wcities.com
contact:
tel: +39 02 7252 4301
location:
3 Via Degli Omenoni
Milan 20121
4 Casa degli Omenoni
DESCRIPTION: Built by the sculptor, Leone Leoni between 1562 and
1566 as his Milan residence, this building is famous above all for it's
façade, which has eight telamons sculpted in solid stone. The rest of
the decoration is highly ornamental and reflects the cultured style of its
architect. © wcities.com
wcities
contact:
tel: +39 02 7252 4301
location:
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Milan 20121
contact:
tel: +39 02 7252 4301
fax: +39 2 80 9662
location:
Piazza San Babila
Milan 20121
5 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
DESCRIPTION: Milan's late-19th-century version of a mall is this
wonderful steel-and-glass-covered, cross-shaped arcade. The elegant
Galleria is the prototype of the enclosed shopping malls that were to
become the hallmark of 20th-century consumerism. It's safe to say that
none of the imitators have come close to matching the Galleria for style
and flair. The designer of this urban marvel, Giuseppe Mengoni, didn't live
to see the Milanese embrace his creation: He tripped and fell from a girder
a few days before the Galleria opened in 1878. His shopping mall par
excellence provides a lovely route between the Duomo and La Scala and
is a fine locale for watching the flocks of well-dressed Milanese -- you'll
understand why the Galleria is called Il Salotto di Milano (the drawing
room of Milan). © Frommer's
wcities
6 Fontana di Piazza San Babila
DESCRIPTION: Donated to the city by the Ente Autonomo
Fiera Milano in 1997, this fountain was designed by Luigi
Caccia Dominioni. It is situated in front of the portico of
the Toro Assicurazioni building- a garden of water and
stones. The water falls from a central pinnacle into a large
quadrangular basin which is surrounded by green 'hills'. Using
an intelligent combination of stone (it is almost a living museum
of Lombardian stone - Serizzo from Val Masino, pink granite
from Baveno and red granite from Val Gerola, to Dubino from
Valtellina) and forms, the fountain stands as a symbol and an
expression of the resources to be found in the region. Thus the
water, of which Milan became so proud, and which is today a
forgotten part of the city, has rediscovered a role in an urban
context and has become a focus for relaxation in the crowded
and chaotic city centre. © wcities.com
wcities
62
location:
16 Corso Venezia
Milan 20121
7 Palazzo Serbelloni
DESCRIPTION: The building, dating to around 1770, was
created by architect Simone Cantoni. The design heightens
the monumental character of the central part, with a threefloor façade. Opposite the entrance, a helical staircase leads
to the first floor, that has been refurbished and in part restored,
with a Neoclassical hall by Traballesi. In 1796 it was used for
three months by Napoleon and Josephine during their sojourn
in Milan. Today it is in part residential, and in part used by a
number of associations. © wcities.com
location:
Piazza Guglielmo Oberdan
Milan 20129
wcities
8 Porta Venezia
DESCRIPTION: Once known as Porta Orientale, the Eastern
Gate, in the Spanish city walls, these two buildings were made
to a design by Rodolfo Vantini from 1827 to 1828, following
a competition launched to replace Piermarini's work that had
been left unfinished. The square-plan buildings have loggias
on three sides. The design testifies to the transformation, which
had already begun with Piermarini's design (1787-1789), of
the fortified gates into administrative buildings. Facing the
direction of Vienna, the monument would later lose significance
when Napoleon took command and built the Arch of Peace. ©
wcities.com
wcities
63
Day 13 - Verona
QUICK NOTE
DAY NOTE: http://www.campingcar-infos.com/Francais/aire.php?numid=5014&Localit%E9=VERONA&Pays=ITALIE 10 eura
nok piych stop vo gradot ima ubavi komentari GRS:Latitude (North) Decimal 45.43439 ° or 45 ° 26 '3804''
.
Longitude (East) Decimal 10.97787 ° or 10 ° 58 '40,332''
.
. Разгледување и прошетка низ плоштадите „Бра” и „Ебре”
.
и Делсињори”, куќата на Јулија и гробот на Ромео, гробовите на фамилијата Скала
contact:
tel: +39 045 806 8680
location:
Piazza Bra
Verona 37121
location:
Piazza dei Signori
Verona 37121
1 Portoni della Bra
DESCRIPTION: Those who arrive in Verona by train will
pass through two gateways. The first is the Porta Nuova and
the second set are the Portoni della Bra at the entrance of
the Piazza Bra. The Portoni della Bra consists of two stone
archways, erected in 1480 on the site of a gateway that made
up part of the city walls. A short distance away, a pentagonshaped tower remains, a sole remnant of the fortifications put
up at the time of the Viscounts. Passing through the archways
is a significant experience; one feels one is entering the heart of
old Verona, into the piazza dominated by the immense structure
of the Arena. © wcities.com
2 Piazza dei Signori
DESCRIPTION: The very noble Piazza dei Signori is the heart
of Verona. Its perimeter is surrounded by historical buildings,
which accentuate the important role the place has played in
the city's politico-administrative spheres. On the piazza we
find the Palazzo del Comune, the Palazzo del Capitanio, and
the Loggia del Consiglio. The buildings are joined with elegant
arches, mostly dating from the 14th Century. There are wide
ranges of styles, which are nevertheless characterized by great
harmony. © wcities.com
contact:
tel: +39 045 806 8680
location:
Piazza delle Erbe
Verona 37121
wcities
wcities
3 Fontana di Madonna Verona
DESCRIPTION: The fountain of Madonna Verona, which was
repaired in 1368, is one of the oldest and best known fountains
in the city. It is constructed in the form of a female figure, dating
back to Roman times. In her hands, the statue holds a scroll
bearing the emblem of the city of Verona. She is resting on a
base (also of Roman origin), on which are sculpted eight masks
from which the water flows. On one of these the epigraph
[Mar]morea Verona (Verona Marble), testifies to the promise
made by the Scaligieri to transform Verona's buildings. The
wcities
64
monument was erected at the wishes of Casignorio della Scala,
to celebrate the repair of the city's aqueduct. © wcities.com
contact:
tel: +39 045 806 8680
location:
Via Sabbionaia
Verona 37121
contact:
tel: +39 045 80 35645
location:
Via Cappello 23
Verona 37121
hours:
Mon 1:30-7:30pm; TuesSun 8:30am-7:30pm. (Last
admission 45 min. before
closing.)
4 Ponte della Pietra
DESCRIPTION: This stone bridge was built after the second
World War, between 1957 and 1959, on the site of an ancient
Roman bridge on the Via Postumia, an important line of
communication between Genoa and Aquileia. The bridge has
five arches: the one on the left dates back to the Roman period,
the central one, and the one after it are by Antonio Scarpagnino
and date back to 1520, while the final one on the right and the
brick tower intended for the defense of the bridge were built at
the time of Alberto I della Scala (1298). © wcities.com
wcities
5 Casa di Giulietta
DESCRIPTION: There is no proof that a Capuleti (Capulet)
family ever lived here (or if they did, that a young girl named
Juliet ever existed), and it wasn't until 1905 that the city bought
what was an abandoned, overgrown garden and decided its
future. Rumor is that this was once actually a whorehouse. So
powerful is the legend of Juliet that over half a million tourists
flock here every year to visit the simple courtyard and home
that are considerably less affluent-looking than the sumptuous
Franco Zeffirelli version as you may remember it (the movie
was filmed in Tuscany). Many are those who leave behind
layer upon layer of graffiti along the lines of "Laura, ti amo!," or
who engage in the peculiar tradition (whose origin no one can
seem to explain) of rubbing the right breast (now buffed to a
bright gold) of the 20th-century bronze statue of a forever nubile
Juliet. The curious might want to fork over the entrance fee
to see the spartan interior of the 13th-century home, restored
in 1996. Ceramics and furniture on display are authentic of
the era but did not belong to Juliet's family -- if there ever was
a Juliet at all. No one is willing to confirm (or deny) that the
balcony was added to the palazzo as recently as 1928 (though
that doesn't stop many a young lass from posing on it, staring
dreamily at the sky). La Tomba di Giulietta (Juliet's Tomb;
tel. 045-800-0361) is about a 15-minute walk south of here
(near the Adige River on Via delle Pontiere 5; admission 3€/
$3.90 adults; 2€/$2.60 children, and free first Sun of each
month; Tues-Sun 9am-7pm). The would-be site of the starcrossed lovers' suicide is found within the graceful medieval
cloisters of the Capuchin monastery of San Francesco al
Corso. Die-hard romantics may find this tomb with its surely
posed "sarcophagus" rather more evocative than the crowded
scene at Juliet's House and worth the trip. Others will find it
overrated and shouldn't bother. The adjacent church is where
their secret marriage was said to have taken place. A small
museum of frescoes is also adjacent. © Frommer's
wcities
65
location:
Piazza delle Erbe
Verona 37121
hours:
Open-air produce and flower
market Mon-Sat 8am-7pm
6 Piazza delle Erbe
DESCRIPTION: This bustling marketplace -- the palazziflanked Square of the Herbs -- sits on the site of the Roman
Forum where chariot races once took place. The herbs, spices,
coffee beans, and bolts of silks and damasks that came through
Verona after landing in Venice from faraway Cathay have
given way to the fresh and aromatic produce of one of Italy's
wealthiest agricultural regions -- offset by the presence of
T-shirt and french-fry vendors, as the piazza has become
something of a tourist trap. But the perfume of fennel and
vegetables fresh from the earth still assaults your senses
in the early morning, mixing with the cacophony of vendors
touting plump tomatoes, dozens of different variations of salad
greens, and fruits that can't possibly taste as good as they look,
but do. Add to this the canary lady, the farmer's son who has
brought in a half a dozen puppies to unload, and the furtive
pickpocket who can spot a tourist at 50 paces -- and you have
one of Italy's loveliest little outdoor markets. Take a rest on one
of the steps leading up to the small, 14th-century fountain in
the piazza's center and a Roman statue dubbed The Virgin of
Verona. © Frommer's
wcities
66
Day 14 - Kocevje
QUICK NOTE
contact:
tel: (0)7 493 50 00, (0)7 493
67 00, (0)7 493 50 05, (0)7
493 55 20, (0)7 496 27 21
location:
Topliška cesta
Catez ob Savi
1 Terme Catez D.D. Catez Ob Savi
DESCRIPTION: I've never been in Terme Catez in Slovenia, but I am planing to go there, this
year. You can see it on: http://www.terme-catez.si/en/. There are pools with mineral water and very
interesting tobogans for kids. I'll provide for you a review when I visit it. I hope my family will like it.
© FrosinaL
67
My List
contact:
tel: +39 06 060 608(Tourist
Information)
i01.html
location:
piazza di Trevi
Rome 00187
1 Trevi Fountain (Fontana dei Trevi)
DESCRIPTION: Tradition has it that throwing a coin over
your left shoulder into the fountain guarantees a swift return
to the world's most beautiful city. Anita Ekberg's dip in it was
immortalized in Fellini's 'La Dolce Vita', and Italian actor Toto
even sold it to an American, passing himself off as its owner.
Earlier it was the setting for the award-winning "Three Coins in
the Fountain" motion picture, ensuring its popularity worldwide.
Designed by Nicola Salvi for Pope Clemente XII, it was
completed in the second half of the 1700s. The statues in the
centre represent Neptune supported by Tritons on either side
while rococo-style Poli Palace provides the perfect backdrop. ©
wcities.com
.
68
Cannes Snapshot
Local Info
Possibly the question most pondered by
visitors to Cannes is:"Can we afford it?" The
answer is: If you have to ask... But there
are ways to enjoy the center of Cote d'Azur
glamour-- if not on the cheap then at least
on something less than$1,000 a day. Step
1: Don't visit in May, when the Cannes Film
Festival takes place.
Sights
Many of the beaches in Cannes are owned
by hotels or charge a high price for a few
square meters of sand. But there are public
beaches in the eastern part of town. These
are usually crowded, though, so if you
prefer a quieter time, visit one of the city's
many well-tended parks and gardens. Or
take a ferry over to Iles de Lerins, across
the bay. Here you can see old castle ruins
and the fortified monastery of Abbey Lerins.
The monastery is a particularly interesting
attraction. The monks sell great food and
wine for you to take home or give as gifts.
If you do happen to be in town in May-- and
star gazing is your idea of entertainment-show up early and grab a seat at one of
the lively bars and cafes along La Croisette
to watch the celebrities go by. At all times
of year you can appreciate the area's
historic architecture in the old city. Other
good sightseeing options include a day
cruise, like the lovely trip out to Corniche
d'Or. Back on foot in the city, stroll over
to landmark Notre Dame d'Esperance.
Or drive out to see the art at Musee
d'Art et d'Histoire de Provence. Perfume
lovers should visit Molinard, an old factory
where many famous perfume scents are
developed and created.
Dining
A lot of the most popular places to eat
here are located by the water or in the
charming old city along Le Suquet, the
winding cobbled lane that climbs the hill.
Dining outdoors is recommended, with the
streets of Cannes serving as the romantic
backdrop. Also try the vibrant Covered
Market, the site to find plenty of(gourmet)
street food. If you have a penchant for
sweets you can find some of the best
chocolate in the world in the stores along
Rue d'Antibes. And take home a pack
of crystallized fruit, a local treat that's a
favorite of many visitors as well.
Shopping
Got your credit card? How high is the limit?
Cannes is a haven for those who demand
luxury goods and designer fashions.
The best high-end shops, boutiques and
galleries are located at La Croisette and in
Rue d'Antibes. For those who want more
affordable stores, there is a lot of local
merchandise and souvenirs in the Old
Town.
© NileGuide
History
Invasions, conquests and uprisings
punctuate the history of Cannes, which was
nothing more than a simple Mediterranean
fishing village before the 19th Century. The
arrival of Lord Brougham in 1834 prompted
an influx of British and Russian aristocrats
wishing to take advantage of the town's
warm winter climate, bringing the town
the fame and fortune it enjoys today. Ever
thriving, Cannes has played host to the
renowned International Film Festival since
1946, and is now the choice location for
staging many prestigious events.
The first known civilization to inhabit
Cannes dates right back to 2 BCE, when
today's movie-star playground was settled
by the Oxybian tribe from Liguria(an arm
of the Mediterranean conquered by Rome
in 14 BCE) bearing the name Aegitna. At
this time, Aegitna was a poor and simple
fishing village that served as a stopping
point between the Lérins Islands(less than
a mile southeast of Cannes) and dry land.
Life in Aegitna was idyllically uneventful
until the bloody battle between the troops
of Othos and Vitellius in the year 69 CE,
each aspiring to the power of the Roman
emperor. The era of conquest thus began
and it was not until the 9th Century that the
wave of brutal foreign invasions ceased.
In the 10th century, the village fell under
the sway of the Abbaye de Lérins(Lérins
Abbey, founded in the 5th Century). Once
the invaders had been expelled, the Counts
of Provence handed over the small edifice
crowning the summit of Le Suquet hill(the
old town district of present-day Cannes)
to the abbot, exempting him from taxation
and making him the ruler. To better defend
the village, the monks built a fortified castle
on this site, the Château de la Castre(now
home to the museum of the same name),
and the village rallied around it. It was
also during this period that the siege tower
of Ile St Honorat and the great tower of
Cannes were constructed. Then, in 1035,
the name “Cannes” appeared for the first
time in official documentation. Various
theories about the origins of Cannes' name
have been proposed, the most plausible of
which is perhaps that the town was named
after the abundant reeds(cannae) which
surrounded the early settlement.
By the 14th Century the Plague was rife
in the region, closely followed by bouts of
invasions by pirates and bandits. Thanks to
the Abbey's benevolent protection of town
and townsfolk, Cannes survived. Plague
struck again in the 16th Century, this
time even more deadly than the first, and
from this point on, the history of Cannes
gradually blended into the broader history
of the Provençal region, itself in the process
of annexation by France. As this happened,
the influence of Lérins began to wane.
By the 17th Century the village had
grown to support some 600 houses,
and the Notre-Dame parish church was
built. The Spanish managed to invade
one of the Lérins islands, the Isle de
Sainte-Marguerite, but were eventually
driven out by French troops. The 18th
Century witnessed the comings and
goings of various invaders, and in 1771
an exceptionally harsh winter ravaged the
region; the corresponding high price of
bread provoking the people into revolt.
At around the same time, maritime trade
began to occupy a more important place
in the town's economy. One result of the
French Revolution in 1789 was the division
69
Cannes Snapshot continued
of the country intodépartements(local
administrative units), and Grasse became
thechef-lieu(governmental center,
equivalent to a county seat) of the Cannes
region.
Apart from Napoleon's brief passage
through Cannes upon escaping from exile
on the Isle of Elba in March 1815, the
major event of the 19th Century was Lord
Brougham's legendary arrival in the town –
a story worth telling. In December 1834, the
English Peer and deputy Whig famous for
championing rights to freedom(especially
the abolition of slavery in the colonies),
decided to spend winter in Nice, about
18 miles away. Contrary to his plans,
his trip ended one or two miles short of
his destination at Saint-Laurent-du-Var,
where the river Var had been closed to
prevent the spread of cholera. Thus the
Lord Chancellor of England, despite his
valiant attempts to continue, had no choice
but to turn back. Legend has it that his
decision to stay on was clinched by a
heartybouillabaisse(fish soup, a regional
specialty) and a comfortable bed at the
only inn in the area, Auberge Pinchinat(no
longer in existence). Lord Brougham was
so taken by this lovely site, its friendly
inhabitants and gentle climate that he
decided to go no further. He had a castle
built for him here, which he named after
his recently deceased daughter – Château
Eléonor, where he spent the rest of his
days. Following his example and attracted
by the exceptional natural beauty and
mild climate, a wave of British expatriates
soon began flooding into Cannes. From its
beginnings as a provincial village, Cannes
soon gained recognition as the Mecca of
holiday resorts. Its growth was dazzling,
with less than 4000 inhabitants in 1834
and some 20,000 in 1896. At the end of the
19th Century, tourism was Cannes' main
economic activity.
The once peaceful little fishing village
began to welcome prestigious guests
such as writers Prosper Mérimée and
Oscar Wilde, great aristocrats and
personalities including the Countess of
Oxford, Lord Russell, Baron Haussmann,
the Rothschilds, and even the King of
Prussia. Every winter, an international élite
disembarked here to enjoy this peaceful
haven. Their presence encouraged many
developments such as the appearance
of La Croisette along the waterfrontthey would stroll draped in finery, their
faces hidden behind parasols to preserve
their pale complexions. By the 1930s,
the parasols vanished as a healthy tan
became stylish, and Cannes' place as
a fashionable destination was secured.
Even though fears of sun damage to
the skin has reversed this trend again,
people still flock to Cannes, and you can
still admire the furs and riches on parade
along La Croisette, as the town retains a
special place in the hearts of the rich and
famous. Meanwhile, the International Film
Festival, now more than fifty years old(the
first one in 1946 was an unprecedented
success in which unforgettable French
actress Michèle Morgan took the award
for best actress), has lost none of its ability
to attract stars, starlets, and fans. It is
undeniably a major international event in
the world of the silver screen, such that
Cannes specializes in organizing important
exhibitions and events like MIDEM and
MIPTV. It yields little to mass tourism so as
to favor the more distinguished guests in
the ranks of celebrities, artists and wealthy
businessmen… Today, as in the 19th
Century, Cannes is the epitome of chic.
©
the first tourist to the area in 1834 – Lord
Brougham – was so taken by the hospitality
at the Pinchinat inn(no longer in existence)
and the region's temperate climate that he
decided to permanently extend his stay. His
footsteps have since been followed many a
time.
Hotel Insights
Another turn-of-the-century palace is the
appropriately named Splendid which, with
its three-star status(the hotels above are
rated four-stars), offers slightly lower rates.
Everyone knows that Cannes is a popular
destination spot. Hotels are certainly in
plentiful supply here, but there never
seems to be enough of them when
major media events like the International
Film Festival(more commonly known
as theFestival de Cannes) and the
MIDEM(record and music production
festival) come to town. Try to arrange a
stay that doesn't coincide with some major
exhibition or other; otherwise, be sure to
reserve well in advance. It should also be
noted that hotels in Cannes raise prices
during peak periods, so be warned.
Aside from these few obstacles, Cannes
is a truly pleasant place to stay. After all,
La Croisette/ La Pointe Croisette
Visitors who long for the days of the belle
époque will be utterly smitten by the opulent
rooms at the Majestic, Carlton(InterContinental) and Martinez hotels, the
latter of which also boasts one of Cannes'
best restaurants, La Palme d'Or. These
three majestic palaces, which resemble
enormous ships facing the waterfront,
overlook the sea and mountains from
their privileged position on Boulevard
de la Croisette. Film fans are well aware
that their favorite actors will be staying
here at festival time- during the week
long festivities, the hotels are constantly
besieged by autograph-seeking, photosnapping admirers of the stars.
Those with more modern tastes will
immediately feel at home in the Hilton
Cannes, another big name on La Croisette.
The hotel's blue glass design echoes the
blue sea across the way, although you
don't have to cross the street to swim and
sunbathe on the beach because the Noga
boasts a rooftop swimming pool.
Centre-ville(Town Center)
The Gray d'Albion, another ultramodern
hotel, also enjoys an excellent reputation.
Each of its 186 suites and rooms come with
a private terrace and the hotel also features
a private beach and its own nightclub,
Jane's, for your enjoyment.
If you wish to spend a few days in Cannes
on a slightly less extravagant budget, a
number of lower-priced hotels are available,
many of them comfortable, friendly, and
charming. These include the Florian which
couldn't be more centrally placed if it tried,
and is both practical and reasonably priced.
70
The centrally located Hôtel de Paris is one
of the most elegant in its price category.
Tastefully decorated, with an ornate façade
accented by pediments, columns and
capitals, it is blessed with an attractive
pool and gardens, a rarity in the heart of
town. Hôtel de France on Rue d'Antibes is
another good option in the center of town,
with exquisite 1930s style décor, and the
Albe Hôtel offers lower prices and a warm
welcome.
Visitors wishing to stretch out their
vacations in Cannes may prefer the
unpretentious, low-priced, but entirely
satisfactory Cimem Assomption, a unique
establishment that falls outside the classic
definition of hotel accommodation as it is
run by a group of nuns and laywomen. It
has a truly delightful park. Hotel National is,
on the other hand, among the best one-star
accommodations in Cannes.
La Bocca
The Climat de France(Kyriad) is imposing,
modern, and absolutely comfortable with a
large swimming pool and the beach close
by, and it represents good value for your
money.
©
Restaurants Insights
Cannes is one of the most cosmopolitan
towns you're ever likely to visit. In fact you'll
be hard pressed to find a genuine native, as
many a visitor to the Côte d'Azur, following
the footsteps of 19th-century politician Lord
Brougham, has chosen to make it his or
her home. It comes as no surprise then
that a culinary journey through Cannes is
a voyage in itself. Discover and savor the
Italian, Creole, Armenian, American, Greek
and Mexican variations found here; but if
you prefer rustic French fare, there's plenty
to choose from whatever your appetite.
Whether you yearn for the traditional
gastronomic delights at the colorful local
brasserie, the delicatessen counters selling
fine ice creams, pastries and cakes, or the
cafés and tea rooms for quenching your
thirst, there is something to suit all tastes,
guaranteed.
La Croisette/ La Pointe Croisette
To begin with the town's finest, Cannes
has several restaurants which lay claim
to this accolade: La Villa des Lys and La
Palme d'Or, At this level of excellence, it is
difficult to recommend one over the other,
but one way of deciding is to choose which
palatial hotel you'd prefer to dine in, as
these renowned restaurants reside in the
Majestic and the Martinez.
Amid the Neo-Etruscan decor at the Villa
des Lys, young chef Bruno Oger, quite the
modern-day Merlin, will enchant your taste
buds. You only have to utter the magic
words – braised sea bass with crushed
black olive and golden fennel risotto, or leg
of pork with sage and mild spices–and you'll
be won over.
The internationally renowned Palme d'Or
hardly needs an introduction. Masterchef
Christian Willer runs the kitchens with
inspired expertise, taking local products and
imaginatively transforming them into the
likes of cold, fresh bean soup with truffles,
Saint Pierre fish with tomatoes, olives and
zucchini flowers, and spicy shrimp to name
but a few. Even though these ingredients
are widely used in the region, they are
seldom prepared with such refinement.
Poisson Grillé and Comptoir de la mer offer
the finest fresh seafood, Vesuvio offers
excellent Italian fare, and the Restaurant
Arménien is a highly original spot right
in the middle of La Croisette. Farfalla
has a delightful terrace where you can
soak up the wonderful atmosphere, and
Festival will welcome you for breakfast,
lunch, and dinner at all hours, but its
real specialty is afternoon tea and cakes
on the beautiful terrace, courtesy of its
fabulouspâtissier(pastry chef).
Centre-ville(Town Center)
The luxuriously modern Hôtel Gray d'Albion
also offers a first class dining experience in
the Royal Gray. Michel Bigot recently took
over from Jacques Chibois as chef here,
to the same delicious level of success.
Only the best produce is used in truly
intuitive combinations of flavors. Try the
warm salad of lobster with crepes sprinkled
with parsley, creamy wild mushroom soup
or fried escalope of foie gras. The decor
exudes the atmosphere of a super-stylish
brasserie.
Coquille offers first-rate seafood, and Bec
Fin is a place where quality is the byword
in terms of the cooking, the price and the
service.
Morrison's is attractively decorated and
serves some of the best beers in Cannes.
This bar attracts a largely foreign clientele
and the atmosphere is genuinely warm
and friendly. Caffé Roma which also offers
some great Italian dishes, is a delight in
summer or winter–if you're lucky enough
to find a seat that is. And if a cup of tea is
your preferred tipple, you must try Rohr –
a real classic, while the Haagen Dazs café
will entice any Swiss chocolate lover with its
pancakes, or its cookie or pecan flavored
ice creams.
If you prefer the finer things in life, head
for Pause Caviar, while the Comtesse du
Barry offers a superb compromise between
luxury and simplicity. Finally for a good wine
to wash down all these delights, stop off at
Nicolas before you head home to eat.
Mougins
A few kilometers from Cannes, dedicated
gourmets should not miss Vergé's famous
restaurant, Le Moulin de Mougins, but for
a more low-key food affair, the following
eateries are guaranteed to tantalize your
taste buds.
At Chez Freddy, Spain takes pride of place,
although the restaurant also prepares good
Provençal dishes. Piazza offers authentic
Italian cooking a little more varied than the
run of the mill spaghetti and tomato sauce.
Russian dishes are the order of the day at
Saint Petersbourg, or you might like to try
the tasty Swiss specialties served at Canna
Suisse, all at very reasonable prices.
Le Suquet
Another great choice for traditional French
cuisine is the Auberge Provençale which
specializes in authentic, age-old recipes.
If your favorite is fish you are in luck,
because like most port towns, Cannes has
71
a very wide choice of fish and seafood
restaurants. Head for the famous Mal Assis,
For those who prefer to eat in rather than
out, you'll have no trouble finding some
really excellent delicatessens and caterers.
A firm favorite is Aux Bons Raviolis – where
you can buy what is arguably the best fresh
pasta in Cannes.
©
Nightlife Insights
is still a mystery which continues to puzzle
historians. Was he an unknown elder
brother of the King? Had he learned that
Louis XIV was unable to have children–
something which would jeopardize his
lineage? Speculation is endless. Also
on the island is a significant collection
of nautical pieces at the Musée de la
Mer(Maritime Museum); don't miss the
newly restored Roman frescoes.
Outdoors
The Mediterranean sun and sea really help
to cultivate the festive spirit and lounging
life that Cannes is so well-known for –
as well as the palm trees that adorn the
local landscape. Enjoy yourself! You'll be
truly spoiled between all of your choicesbeaches, nightclubs, museums and
galleries, festivals and shopping all year
round.
To begin with the white, sandy beaches,
they may not be the biggest in the world,
but they certainly have their advantages.
Many of them, like Plage du Martinez, and
Plage Calao, are private, which means they
offer every imaginable service, from sun
beds, umbrellas and refreshments to water
skiing, parasailing, and jetskis for hire. And
the water is of course blissfully warm, at
least in the summer.
Galleries, Museums& Monuments
Nightlife
Cannes boasts a number of art galleries
that rival any in France, such as the fine
contemporary displays at Galerie de
Cannes and Galerie Alexandre Léadouze.
After a long day of sunbathing and
relaxation, it's time for a bite to eat before
getting ready to dance the night away in
one of Cannes's nightclubs, which are in
plentiful supply. The Cat Corner attracts a
diverse young crowd, always ready to party
until dawn. It's often where the regulars at
Farfalla restaurant(where good humor and
good company are the recipe for a great
night out) end up. The atmosphere is also
buzzing at Jane's Club at the Gray d'Albion
Hotel. Jimmy'z is a rather upper class disco
whose huge dance floor is just begging you
bust a move.
The handful of museums in the town, while
disappointing in number, are of uniformly
high quality. On Boulevard de la Croisette,
you'll love to linger around Malmaison, a
former private mansion dating back to the
belle époque, featuring some excellent
temporary art exhibitions. At the summit
of Le Suquet – the old town on the hill –
stands Musée de la Castre, a museum
which boasts a panoramic view of the city
and its surroundings, as well as collections
focusing on Mediterranean archaeology
and musical instruments from all over the
world. Just next door is the church of NotreDame de l'Espérance with its intriguing
commemorative plaques made by locals
giving thanks to the Virgin Mary for prayers
answered.
Make sure you cross the shores to the
island of Sainte-Marguerite, where you
can visit the actual prison where the wellknown Man in the Iron Mask was held.
Incarcerated without trial by order of King
Louis XIV, the true identity of this prisoner
Shopping
Cannes is heaven for shopaholics, who
will never tire of the countless boutiques
on Rue d'Antibes and Boulevard de la
Croisette, and will be enraptured by the big
French labels like Chanel. If you're looking
for some chic but affordable new clothes,
then Zara is a good place to start.
Cinema
Given that you're in a film buff's paradise
– the International Film Festival has been
running in Cannes for over 50 years –
you might just want to catch a movie.
Cannes hasn't yet been kitted out with
enormous multiplexes, but the three main
local cinemas – Arcades 3, Cinéma Star,
and Olympia – are all fantastically placed
in the center of town. Studio 13 is also
well worth a visit; it shows classics, writer/
director films and other movies that fall
outside the commercial sphere.
Festivals
Don't forget that Cannes hosts festivals
all year round: the world-renowned
International Film Festival and the
MIDEM(Marché International du Disque,
de l'Edition Musicale) music festival are
just a few of the events held here annually.
If you're in town in September don't miss
the Festival de la Plaisance(Pleasure Boat
Festival).
©
Things to Do Insights
The Croisette
Taking this route will reveal Cannes in all of
its different guises. For a piece of Cannes,
the city of sun, stroll along La Croisette
while admiring the magnificent shoreline.
Upon arriving at Le Suquet, climb the hill
into the old town to experience its historical
heritage, then circle back to the starting
point via Rue d'Antibes to uncover the
stylish side of the town with its countless
fashion boutiques.
Start your walk at the seafront on Boulevard
de La Croisette by the Pierre Canto port
and the adjoining garden. After crossing
over, stroll alongside the beautiful sandy
beaches and admire the impressive palatial
hotels — Martinez, Carlton, and Majestic —
those legendary names which conjure up all
the splendor of this magical town during the
International Film Festival, a major event in
Cannes' calendar that attracts the biggest
names in the acting world.
For a delicious meal of local favorites, stop
in the Pavillon Croisette for lunch or dinner.
There is also a Havana room for cigar
lovers. If you prefer seafood, Comptoir de la
Mer is a great option.
The Palais des Festivals
72
The end of La Croisette will deliver you
to the Palais des Festivals(where you will
also find the office du tourisme – the Tourist
Information Office). If you look down you'll
see the famous palace steps, climbed every
evening of the Festival by sumptuously
dressed celebs to the cheers of the crowds.
You can also see plaques bearing the
hand prints of your favorite stars, including
Sharon Stone and Harrison Ford, and
directors like Martin Scorcese and Stephen
Segal. Just behind the Palais lies the old
port. Wander along until you reach Quai StPierre, where little streets and stairways
lead you to Place de la Castre at the top
of Le Suquet hill. On the summit, you can
visit the Musée de la Castre, a museum
founded in 1877 housed in the old castle
and dedicated to ancient civilizations,
presenting a beautiful collection of 19thcentury paintings of the town, as well as
the Notre Dame d'Espérance church in
Provençal Gothic style, dating from the
12th and 16th Centuries. Take a moment to
enjoy the unobstructed panorama over the
town and the stunning coastline.
Meander back down the hill again towards
Place de la Castre, taking in the small
streets of old Cannes, especially Rue
du Suquet which is dotted with great
little restaurants and cafés. The windowshopping begins soon after you emerge
at Rue Meynardier, which runs into the
delightful Rue d'Antibes, the main shopping
street. After all that, you'll certainly deserve
a rest, so why not head for one of the café
terraces overlooking the sea for some
refreshment and relaxation. To get there,
rejoin La Croisette by taking one of the
streets perpendicular to Rue d'Antibes
towards the sea. If you've worked up
an appetite after all this walking, make
a reservation at the Palais Oriental for
dinner. This restaurant serves Moroccan
specialties, and oriental dancers provide
entertain at night and during the day on
Sundays. For more traditional fare, reserve
a table at Chez Panisse.
Saint Marguerite Island
You can reach the two islands, Ile Sainte
Marguerite and Ile Saint Honorat, which
light up the sea just less than a mile
southeast of La Croisette by the various
shuttle boats that leave from the old port.
The crossing takes no more than 20
minutes and some shuttles will also take
you between the two islands. But whether
you take the shuttle or sail over in your own
boat, the waters around the islands are
beautiful for swimming and diving.
– can be found in the far southwest corner
of the island.
Ile de Sainte-Marguerite is home to a 170hectare forest, scattered with pathways and
picnic areas. Two-hour tours of the island
are available to enhance your appreciation
of the natural beauty, the astounding flora
and fauna, and the history of the island. At
the Fort Royal, built between 1624-1627
and later transformed by architect Vauban,
you can deepen your knowledge of such
heritage by visiting the Musée de la
Mer(Maritime Museum). It was created in
1975 to exhibit archaeological collections
from land and sea, and the visit begins by
entering the old state prisons, which were
still in use until the end of the 19th Century.
It was here that the famous “Man in the
Iron Mask” was imprisoned, a name that
you may recognize from the film starring
Leonardo Di Caprio, not to mention the
novel by Alexandre Dumas. Next, the
Roman water tanks and the interior of
the fort will enlighten you as seafarers
traveled in antiquity, what type of cargo the
ships carried, and how drinking water was
brought to the island.
Au Départ de Cannes(+33 4 92 98 71
30/ http://www.trans-cote-azur.com/fr/
idl_cannes.html)
Saint-Honorat Island
Saint-Honorat, the smaller of the two
islands, belongs to a Cistercian monastic
order, and you can visit the fortified
monastery which was built in the 11th
Century. The present-day monastery
stands in the center of the island, where
a community of 30 monks live a peaceful
but hard-working life. From the fruits of
their labor, products such as home-made
honey, liqueurs and wines, are available
to buy. You can also visit the church itself
and a museum displaying paintings and
relics as well as documents charting the
history of the monastery. Seven chapels
border the island, some of which have been
rebuilt from medieval ruins, but entrance is
forbidden. The most famous – Saint-Trinité
Guided Tours
Taxi Tour
Allo Taxi Cannes(+33 8 90 71 22 27/ http://
www.taxicannes.fr/htgb/frameset1.htm)
Boat Tours
Cruise to Island Ste Marguerite(http://
www.partner.viator.com/en/1771/tours/
Cannes/Cruise-to-Island-Ste-Marguerite/
d786-2502LERINS)
Cruise to Corniche d'Or(http://
www.partner.viator.com/en/1771/
tours/Cannes/Cruise-to-Corniche-dOr/
d786-2502CORN)
©
Travel Tips
Getting There
Air
The Nice-Côte d'Azur International
Airport(+33 8 9269 5555/ http://
www.nice.aeroport.fr/include/default.asp?
l=2/) is located 15 miles outside of Cannes,
and can be reached by taxi or daily buses.
The trip to the city center takes between
30 and 45 minutes, but is a nice, relaxing
drive.
AER LINGUS(+33 1 7020 0072/ http://
www.aerlingus.ie/) ALITALIA(+33
1 4494 4400/ http://www.alitalia.fr/)
AUSTRIAN AIRLINES(+33 8 2081
6816/ http://www.aua.com/) BRITISH
AIRWAYS(+33 4 7268 2408/ http://
www.british-airways.com/) IBERIA(+33
825 800 965/ http://www.iberia.fr/)
SCANDINAVIAN AIRLINE(825 325 335/
http://www.scandinavian.net/) TURKISH
AIRLINES(+33 4 9321 4479/ http://
www.turkishairlines.com/) UNITED
AIRLINES(+33 8 1072 7272/ http://
www.united.com/) VIRGIN EXPRESS(+33 8
2123 0202/ http://www.virgin.com/)From the
Airport
73
Bus: Rapides Côte D'Azur Ouest RCA(+33
8 2048 1111/ http://www.rca.tm.fr/) buses
leave every 20 to 30 minutes. There are
21 scheduled bus routes serving 120
destinations from this airport. Take the N3
to travel by coast to Cannes, or the N210 to
travel by motorway.
Taxis: Taxi service is available outside of
each terminal. However, if Cannes is the
objective, expect to pay around EUR70.
You can rent taxis through Allo Taxis and at
Taxi Cannes.
Car Rental Companies: Traveling to and
from the airport is very simple, you can
follow the A8 to Cannes. For a different
route take the N7 or the N98. The N98
parallels the coast and is the winding scenic
drive connecting Nice with Cannes, Monaco
and Italy. The airport website has a detailed
map and directions to be sure that you get
onto the correct motorway. Companies
include:
ADA(+825 169 169/ http://www.ada.fr/)
Avis(+820 050 505/ http://www.avis.com/)
Budget(+0825 003 564/ http://
www.budget.com/) Europcar(+0825 352
352/ http://www.europcar.fr/) Hertz(+0825
361 361/ http://www.hertz.com/) Sixt(+33
1 44 38 5555/ http://www.e-sixt.com/)
Citer/National(+33 1 44 38 6161/ http://
www.citer.com/)
Train
SNCF(+33 4 9214 8252/ http://
www.sncf.fr/), France's national rail
management company, oversees the lines,
which run east along the coast through
Monaco and down the boot of Italy to
Rome, and west to Marseille before turning
north to Paris.
Sea
If you are looking for a cruise liner to carry
you off into the sea, you will not have
to look far to find one. You can take the
Brittany Ferry service(http://www.brittanyferries.com/) from Spain, Ireland or the UK.
Closer destinations are also available. Out
of the Cannes Port you can take the French
Riviera cruise line(+33 4 93 01 78 05/ http://
www.riviera-ports.com/), which operates
seven days a week, 8a-7p.
Camper& Nicholsons(+33 4 9704
1050/ http://www.cnconnect.com/)
Cannes Nautic(+33 4 9393 0767/ http://
www.cannesnautic.com/)
©
Getting Around
Country: France
Public Transport
Cannes by the Numbers:
In Cannes, buses are the only means
of public transportation available. There
is also a bus for disabled people, the
Handibus, which serves the city. Tickets
can be purchased on entering the bus, and
a packet of 10 tickets as well as a week
pass are also available. Bus companies in
Cannes include:
Population: 70,400
Beltrame(+33 4 9349 6090) Bus Azur(0825
825 599/ http://www.busazur.com/) CTM
Cannes La Bocca(+33 4 9390 9292) STU
de Cannes Bus Azur(+33 4 9345 2008)
Fun Facts
Cannes
Region: Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur
Land Area: 19.62 km²/ 7.6 square miles
Average Annual Rainfall: 85.9 cm/ 33.8 in
Average January Temperature: 13°C/ 55°F
Average July Temperature: 27.5°C/ 80°F
Quick Facts:
Electricity: 220 volts, 50 Hz; standard twopin plug
Time Zone: GMT+ 1
Country Dialing Code:+33
Car
Area Code: 556
Taking your car around Cannes is as
easy as it can get. Traffic jams are rare,
orientation is simple and several parking
garages surround the city center. The only
time when streets are blocked is during the
film festival.
Did You Know?
Bicycle
Cannes offers excellent opportunities
to discover the city by bike. Mistral
Locations is one of the bike rentals
on location(+33 4 9339 3360/ http://
www.mistral-location.com/).
Boat
To experience Cannes from a different
perspective, you can also rent a boat or a
yacht. Rental companies include:
In contrast to its booming artistic culture
of today, Cannes was once a small
agricultural and fishing town during the
Middle Ages. It's quaint charm and beautiful
sandy beaches caught the eye of French
aristocrats in the early 19th Century, which
eventually lead to the economic boom and
international acclaim that it experiences
today.
The Cannes Film Festival did not take place
one year when famous French director
Francois Truffaut boycotted the event due
to the political revolts in 1968.
©
74
Milan Snapshot
Local Info
Milan is divided into 9 distinct zones that
radiate out from the Historical Center(Zona
1) to the periphery. They are identified
numerically by the local council, but also
have names, and each zone includes many
different neighborhoods and quarters.
Although every area is not listed here, each
plays its own special role in the history of
Milan; from theimportantissimo historical
center to the modern"dormitory quarters" of
San Siro.
Centro Storico& Brera
The Historical Center incorporates the
fashion district(called theQuadrilatero
d'Oro), Castello Sforzesco, the
glorious Piazza della Scala, the inviting
neighborhood of Brera, and other areas of
historical and commercial interest. Many
people actually live in the city center, but
they find that there are some disadvantages
involved in living there, e.g. lack of parking
spaces, supermarkets and dry cleaner's,
and the rent can be incredibly high. On the
upside, there is always plenty to do: there
are many excellent restaurants and bars
within walking distance, and a summer's
evening stroll through this area is absolute
bliss.
Corso Buenos Aires
Northeast of the center are some wellknown streets which are popular with
residents, businessmen and visitors: Corso
Venezia and its intersecting roads are lined
with noble families' palaces; in some cases
these are still used as residences, in others,
they have been converted into luxury
offices. The gardens of Porta Venezia make
up a small, enclosed park, which is one of
the most beautiful in Milan. Further north,
is Corso Buenos Aires, one of the largest
commercial main roads, which is easy to
reach and is well-served by the metro; it
has a cosmopolitan feel, many immigrants
live there, and because of this, there are
many different ethnic restaurants.
Magenta
Corso Magenta begins at Porta Magenta
and leads into the center; thiscorso
is"healthy and wealthy": one half has hardly
any shops, but many gorgeous palazzi
with exquisite, hidden gardens, while the
other half has a multitude of shops, some of
which are very prestigious. There are also
several interesting churches and museums
in this area. Thecorso is well served by
public transport, and it has lots of traffic
and few parking spaces during the day, but
becomes a great deal more peaceful at
night-time.
Ticinese-Navigli
Southwest of Milan stands the TicineseNavigli area, which is a mixture of old and
new. Many of the original residents(or their
descendants) still live in Ticinese and there
are manycase di ringhiera- apartments
with wrought-iron balconies that face
inwards. Blue-collar workers lived here
at the beginning of the 20th Century. The
apartments have undergone renovation
and some now house architects, artists,
fashion designerset al. This area is full of
bars and shops selling new and vintage
clothes, antiques, furniture, as well as
basic necessities. TheNavigli, the city's
canal system, includes two canals: the
Naviglio Grande and the Naviglio Pavese. A
short way down the Naviglio Pavese is Via
Chiesa Rossa, characterized by the wave
of immigration which took place here in the
50s and 60s. The area by the Navigli teems
with nightclubs, bars, and pubs, which
means that it is always lively and chaotic,
especially during the summertime. The
Naviglio leads to theautostrada, or highway,
for Genova. The Assago complex, where
the Datchforum is situated, can be seen on
the A7 highway.
Amendola-Fiera& San Siro
Another district that is famous for its
exhibitions and trade fairs is AmendolaFiera; this is a residential area as well, with
many tree-lined streets and tallpalazzi,
or large residential buildings. Most of
thesepalazzi were constructed after 1930,
and so they are still in good condition.
San Siro is famous for its Stadio San Siro
football ground, an important spot for
fans of the AC Milan team. Porta Vittoria&
Porta Romana Vittoria is also a popular
residential area that has a working/middleclass feel; Viale Lazio(one of the streets
in this area) is predominantly made up
of residential, leafy avenues; Corso Lodi
reverberates with the hum of commercial
activity; Viale Umbria is residential and
Corso XXII Marzo is filled with shops. Some
fashion houses have their headquarters
in Vittoria, around Viale Umbria and
Corso Lodi. There is still some industrial
activity to the east, on Viale Mugello and
towards Viale Molise(the large complex
of Macello Comunale) and further out,
and nearby is the famous wholesale
market, Mercato Ortofrutticolo. Further
east, between Forlanini's verdant park and
Taliedo(heading towards Linate Airport), is
theIdroscalo, a large dock filled with water
where you can swim, sunbathe, and sail.
Città Studi
Città Studi is located in the east of
Milan and as the name suggests, is the
University district, home to the Polytechnic
and several chemistry, biology and
pharmaceuticals departments. Many of
the buildings here were constructed in the
1920s, 1930s and 1940s and the overall
feel is that of a charming residential area
with trees on every street.
Isola
To the north of the city lies Isola, located
just behind the Stazione Centrale, other
zones in the vicinity are home to large
hospital complexes, such as Ospedale
Maggiore di Milano Policlinico and CTO.
©
History
Milan:
Milan's history is full of wealth, intrigue and
conflict. Throughout its existence, Milan has
known failure and incredible success and
has faced both with a spirit and verve that
makes this city one of the most famous in
the world.
The first known inhabitants of Milan date
back to the Bronze Age; the Gauls settled
here in the 4th Century BCE and may
have given the area the name"place in
the middle". The Romans conquered the
area in 222 BCE and gave it a similar
name,"Mediolanum", and it became an
autonomous province(Municipium) under
the control of Rome. Its importance grew
considerably during the Imperial Age.
Thanks to its geographical position at the
center of the Padana Plain, merchants
and travelers would stop here en-route to
the north of the Italian Peninsula, and the
city became an important military defense
against the barbarians who attacked from
northern Europe. By 286 CE, Milan was
significant enough to be declared the
75
Milan Snapshot continued
capital of the Western Roman Empire
by Emperor Diocletian, who remained
in the Eastern Empire while his western
counterpart, Maximianus, moved his
residence to Milan. Halfway through the
4th Century it became the second city of
the Roman Empire, after Rome. In 313
CE, the Emperor Constantine issued the
Edict of Milan, which freedom of religion
to Christians in the empire. Traces of the
Roman Empire can be found in places such
as Piazza Cordusio.
Although Milan became less important as
the Roman Empire declined, and due to
its northern position, suffered greatly from
invasions by the Visigoths in 402 CE, Attila
the Hun in 452 CE, and the Ostrogoths in
539 CE. In 569 CE, the city was conquered
by the Longobards, from which the region
of Lombardy gets its name. Milan's rebirth
began when Charlemagne conquered the
city in 774 CE and took the new title"King
of the Lombards". Milan became an
autonomous city in the 12th Century and
trade prospered, due to its key position
in the Po Valley and on the important
routes from southern Italy to the Alps. As
a result of Milan's wealth, importance and
expansion, a new wall with six gateways
was built and some of these gates are
still visible today. The city built a system
of canals(navigli) in the 12th and 13th
Centuries, destined for defensive and
agricultural purposes, which still defines the
city's physiognomy today.
In the 15th century, power passed from the
Visconti Signoria to the Sforza Signoria.
The economy boomed, especially in terms
of crafts, trade and agriculture. Architectural
additions at this time include the Ospedale
Maggiore(today the seat of the State
University), the Lazzaretto(which holds
the Rotonda della Besana and which
is an open air cinema in the summer),
and Castello Sforzesco, a listed building
which exhibits works by Bramante and
Filarete. Also of great historic importance is
Leonardo da Vinci'sThe Last Supper(1498),
a fresco at the Convent of Maria delle
Grazie.
In 1499, the French King Louis XII took
Milan, and for the next thirty-five years, the
city found itself at the center of continuous
battles between France and the Sforza
family. When the incumbent duke of the
Sforza family suddenly died in 1535,
the city passed to Charles V Habsburg
of the Holy Roman Empire. Charles V
passed the duchy of Milan to his son
Philip II, and Spanish rule continued until
the beginning of the 18th Century. The
architectural highlight of this century was
the construction of the Spanish Walls,
which today surround Milan's historical
center. The city's power and prosperity
declined under foreign rule, and in 1630,
the Black Death struck the city and greatly
reduced the population. Finally, after the
War of the Spanish Succession, in 1706
the Savoys of Austria took possession
of the city. Milan began a new phase of
expansion, characterized by fiscal and
ecclesiastic reform, which culminated
in exceptionally rich cultural activity
around 1770. Milan fell under Napoleon
Bonaparte's control, and the population
boomed. It became the capital of the
Cisalpine Republic and reaffirmed its
cultural and economic importance. As part
of Napoleon's architectural and urbanization
plans thecerchia dei bastoni ring road
was built around the historic center. Other
new roads were also built following Paris'
system; these are still used today.
The Austrians again took control of Milan
in the 19th Century. Neither the educated
middle classes nor the lower classes were
happy about Austrian rule and in 1848 there
was a popular insurrection, which ended
with much bloodshed. The Kingdom of Italy
was proclaimed in 1861.
A great deal of the city center dates back
to the beginning of the 20th Century, when
many areas were redesigned and rebuilt.
The city is filled with Fascist"minimalist"
houses in impressive tree-lined avenues,
workers' houses, and"dormitory districts"
which were immense apartment blocks with
no real shops or services nearby. Many of
these estates soon fell into disrepair.
Fortunately, Milan is being transformed
from an ugly duckling into a beautiful swan.
Economic revival has made it a rich and
interesting city. The"moral capital" of Italy
is very different from all the artistic cities
dotted around the country. It is the center
of economic activity in Italy; the country's
Stock Exchange is based here. Milan's
fame is also boosted by its role in the
world of fashion, by the presence of many
industries, its high-tech service sector, and
its cultural innovation. Most of Italy's press
are situated here. One of the major TV
networks- the largest private network in
Italy- has its headquarters at the gates of
Milan.
©
Hotel Insights
Milan:
Milan is without doubt the city of fashion,
shopping and business. Famous fashion
streets such as Via Montenapoleone, Via
della Spiga and Corso Emmanuele II also
have elegant, luxurious and expensive
hotels.
Centro storico
In the centro storico, or the historic center
of the city, there are several options for
those who want to be close to all the
shopping and historical sights located in
downtown. These hotels range from the
affordable to the more pricey, boutique
hotels. The popular Italian chain, Jolly
Hotels, has a lovely branch near the
Duomo- Jolly Hotel President, which has
all the comforts and is quite modern.
The American chain, Hyatt, also offers
accommodation near the Duomo- the Park
Hyatt Milan with ultra-modern facilities
and first-class customer service. If you're
looking for something smaller and unique,
try the Hotel Gran Duca di York, which is
half new construction, half 18th-century
construction.Brera
There are several different areas in Milan
that hold the majority of the hotels, such as
Isola and Brera. The well-heeled area of
Brera is close to the center, the galleries,
and sophisticated boutiques. If you want
to stay here, you might choose l'Antica
Locanda Solferino, a small hotel which has
retained all the charm of old Milan. Another
delightful, and expensive, stop for lodging
is the incredible Bvlgari Hotel, owned by the
famed jeweler Bulgari. If you are traveling
to Brera by metro then you should alight at
Lanza and Moscova on the red line(MM2),
or Cairoli on the green line(MM1).
Ticinese- Navigli A very lively area, the
Navigli canals run through the district,
and jazz bars, clubs and restaurants line
the banks, while on Saturdays there is a
wonderful street market. This is definitely
the place to stay if you want to socialize
and see the more hip, alternative side of
Milan. You might want to stay at the Ariston
Hotel, at the bottom of Via Torino: a threestar hotel decorated with ecological and
hypoallergenic materials, where smoking
is prohibited. There are many small hotels
76
spread out along the Navigli. Some of these
are further from the center, such as the Art
Hotel Navigli- very convenient for those
who come from the autostrada dei Fiori or
Liguria.Amendola-Fiera
This area has many hotels for both
businessmen and tourists, a lot of these
hotels are less expensive but are easy to
reach by train, tram and metro; booking
is advisable, during important events
these hotels are generally full. Many
hotels are to be found in one of the most
residential areas of Milan, close to the
Fiera's pavilions. The Fiera is Milan's Trade
Fair and the surrounding areas are always
very crowded and filled with traffic. The
hotels here are frequented by thousands of
people who use the pavilions and stands
to show their wares. If you head towards
Corso Vercelli, there are two good hotels:
Hotel Metrò at Corso Vercelli, 6 and Capitol
World Class Hotel on the corner of Via
Cimarosa and Corso Vercelli. The Milan
Marriott in the commercial area of Milan is
seen as a safe bet for many tourists.
©
Milan:
Milan may be famous for its shopping,
trading, and amazing designers, but it is
also a great place to enjoy a good meal.
There are many ethnic restaurants,trattorie
and pizzerias in the city, and during the
summer months, it is not unusual to see
groups of friends enjoying their pizza
Margherita as they sit outside under white
parasols.
From after World War II until the 1960s,
mass migration prompted many southern
Italians to move north, towards the
industrialized cities. Some of them decided
to open simpletrattorie(traditional style,
family-operated restaurants), offering the
cuisine of their hometowns, which were
mainly in Tuscany and Southern Italy. A
number of these restaurants grew in quality
over the years, transforming themselves
into excellent and often outstanding
restaurants: places such as Trattoria
Toscana(book in advance in order to
sample their tasty pasta dishes or fresh fish
recipes) and the mythical Antica Trattoria
Milano which opened a few years after the
end of the Second World War and serves
good, hearty foodalla Milanese.
Pizzerias are popular in Milan, many
serving pizzas cooked in wood-fired ovens,
giving the dough a delicious smoked taste.
Some of the pizzerias have traditional
checked tablecloths, outdoor seating, and
paper tablecloths and provide you with
pencils to amuse yourself while waiting for
your pizza or for your bill. A good option is
the Di Gennaro, a popular pizzeria located
downtown, or for fresh fish Il Sambuco is a
sure thing. If you are in search of Italianalta
cucina, or high cuisine, look no further than
the acclaimed Giannino, although it's prices
can be high as well.
A wonderful view of the city can be seen
from Bistrot Duomo, a great place to try if
you want a quick snack and cappuccino
while shopping or a more substantial
meal before going on to the cinema. It is
located at the top of the stylish Rinascente
department store, which gives you
another reason to visit! Another marvelous
restaurant find is Savini, situated nearby in
the breath-taking Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
II. This restaurant is often thought of as one
of the best in Milan, and though the prices
are high, it is worth a visit if only to enjoy
some old-world charm and steep yourself in
Milanese elegance.
In the 1980s and 1990s a new wave
of immigration brought thousands of
people from nearby developing countries,
which led to the growth of the best ethnic
restaurant network in Italy. In Milan you'll
find restaurants serving delights from
almost every country: from Sri Lanka
to Brazil(excellent Brazilian cuisine is
to be found in Ristorante Rio's), Korea
to Senegal. In the last couple of years
Japanese cuisine has rocked the city; Yume
is a testimony to this- it is the place to come
to have a truly Japanese experience.
There is no better way to round off a meal
than to stroll through the central streets
of Milan eating gelato and watching the
world go by, especially if it is a warm
summer evening. Try Marghera where
delicious gelato and desserts are sold
and there are often long lines(always a
good sign); or you could try the excellent
Gelateria Ecologica, which has been
making natural gelato(without artificial
colors or preservatives) since the 1970s.
Bologna:
There is no denying that Bologna is noted
for its academic culture; the presence
of one of the world's oldest universities
here is testament to this fact, but there
are also many other cultural aspects of
which Bologna can be proud. Its cuisine,
for example, never fails to delight visitors
to the city: it has a culinary tradition which
successfully manages to combine the
traditional and the modern while never
sacrificing creativity. For this reason,
Bologna is known as"La Grassa", or the Fat
One.
Puff pastry dishes are extremely
characteristic of Bolognese cuisine.
Other typical dishes include the famous,
aromaticmortadella, tinytortellini in stock
and pale yellowtagliatelle inragù(meat
sauce)- which is a very popular homecooked dish.
These tempting, fragrant dishes are always
accompanied by excellent regional wines
including Barbera, Bianco, Cabarnet
Sauvignon, Merlot, Pignoletto, Pinot bianco,
Riesling italico, Lambrusco, Sangiovese,
Albana and Trebbiano Doc.
On April 16, 1972, an unusual tale
abouttagliatelle was recorded. Apparently, a
strand of the pasta was made, measured by
experts and found to be 8mm when cooked.
This was worked out to be a decimal
fraction(12,270) of the height of the Torre
dei Asinelli(dei Asinelli Tower). A model of
the strand of pasta was kept in the archives
of the Chamber of Commerce. Many other
bizarre stories such as this one have been
recorded about the legendary Bolognese
sauce.
According to popular legend,tortellini was
invented by a cook who was so enchanted
after having seen Venus's navel, that he
decided to attempt to reproduce it with
his own hands. This legend is echoed in
a poem by Giuseppe Ceri entitled Venus
Navel in which the last verse tells of a
cross-eyed man from Bologna who was
inspired to maketortellini after having seen
Venus's navel!
Porta Piera The historic city center is
full of pubs, pastry shops, ice cream
parlors and small restaurants which serve
up traditional dishes in a friendly, rustic
environment. These include Belle Arti and
Al Caminetto d'Oro are located a stone's
throw from Piazza XVIII Agosto. The city
center is also home to numerous expensive
restaurants which are known throughout the
country, particularly I Carracci where you
can dine onhaute cuisine surrounded by
77
beautiful frescoes by the Caracci brothers
themselves. If you take a walk down Via
Indipendenza, one of the most well-known
streets in the city, you will eventually reach
the Ristorante Diana. Not far from here,
down a side street off Via Indipendenza,
you will find Franco Rossi. For great ethnic
cuisine, and close to the train station if
you're near just for a stopover, try Ru Yi for
Chinese or the Piedra del Sol for Mexican.
Porta Stiera One of the most popular
ethnic restaurants in the city is India, which
also has another restaurant in Fiesole, near
Florence.
Porta Ravegnana Not far from the tourist
sights, Pappagallo- which is famous
throughout Italy- is situated near the historic
towers. There are plenty of pizzerias in
Bologna, but it is safe to say that pizzas are
not a big specialty here. As pizza is part of
the southern culinary tradition, it tends to be
more popular down south. Pizzerias in the
city include Il Doge and Piedigrotta, both
near Piazza Maggiore.
©
Nightlife Insights
Milan:
Art& Culture Milan has plenty to offer in
terms of great entertainment, culture and
art… Need a little persuasion? The city
has the famous Pinacoteca di Brera(the
Brera Art Gallery) and the Museo Cenacolo
Vinciano, which houses artefacts relating to
the Leonardo Da Vinci'sLast Supper as well
as the famous fresco itself.
There are a host of museums spread
out all over the city. It would take a
long time to explore all of them; the
Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della
Tecnologia(Museum of Science and
Technology) is a definite must for boffins
and future Einsteins, and will take a good
two hours to see everything. If you only
have time to visit the city center, there
are plenty of museums to see; in fact,
there is a circuit of five museums known
as the"Museums of the Center". These
museums cover everything from the Revival
period(Museo del Risorgimento, Museum
of the Risorgimento) to contemporary
history, stopping at the Museo di Milano,
Museum of the History of Milan. Piazza
Duomo itself has the Duomo Museum, filled
with tapestries, stained glass and clerical
vestments.
Milan is rich with history, and close to the
center stands the Castello Sforzesco,
which has interesting archaeological and
numismatic collections. Again, this can be
quite time-consuming, but you can take
advantage of the gorgeous park behind to
sit and have a picnic before pressing on.
There are also two private homes(Palazzo
Bagatti Valsecchi and Museo Poldi Pezzoli),
perhaps not quite as grand as the Castle
but just as interesting, which have been
turned into museums and display textiles,
furnishings and paintings.
If you prefer art, there are many art
galleries here, such as the Pinacoteca
Ambrosiana, the Civica Galleria d'Arte
Moderna, and the Padiglione d'Arte
Contemporanea. In these museums, you
are bound to find paintings, sculptures
and sketches to suit your tastes and
you will always find a new exhibition
somewhere.Theatre& Music
If you are more interested in the theater
and opera, one name springs to mind:
the world-famous Scala; but the city has
many other theaters, offering hundreds of
shows. The principle theaters include: the
traditional Teatro San Babila, the Piccolo
Teatro, founded by Strehler, and the Teatro
Franco Parenti, which has devoted recent
seasons to European culture. Milan has
also recently rediscovered its passion
for ballet and big-name musicals, such
asSingin' in the Rain,The Sound of Music
and the eternalRocky Horror Show. Many
of these are staged at the Teatro Ventaglio
Nazionale and Teatro Ventaglio Smeraldo.
Milan is a city of music, too. If you like
classical music, then the Scala is home
to a major symphony orchestra. Both the
Conservatorio and the Chiostro host lyrical
concerts. Jazz and Blues can be heard
wafting down the Navigli canal from places
such as Scimmie, home to modern jazz.
For the more youthful, there are lots of
discotheques, often playing live music, and
many of the stadiums outside the city are
used for major concerts.
Cinema
Cinema is also very popular in Milan; the
center of town is filled with multi-screens,
which are always busy. There are also
multiplexes on the outskirts(with much
better parking facilities than the center) that
show blockbusters, but there are also many
independents that show original language
and experimental films, and these cinemas
have a charm and a décor all their own!
Nightlife
Milan has a lively, dynamic atmosphere day
and night. The most crowded and trendiest
nightspots are in the Brera, Ticinese and
Navigli districts. Most of the fashionable
bars are in Ticinese. The Navigli area is
considered by some to be slightly retro,
but is still adored by many; filled with lots
of"boho" bars, it is just the place to go with
a group of friends or in the company of your
paramour. Brera and Isola are known as
Milan's original hotspots; every bar here is
fantastic. Glamor oozes from every door
and this is a great area for an evening stroll.
There is a huge amount of choice when it
comes to clubs, discos and bars. Thursdays
are best at De Sade, Friday is the day to go
to Shocking Club and Hollywood is cool any
time, any day!
Milan is so cosmopolitan that it has
something for everyone; you are strongly
advised to go and explore this incredible
city.
Bologna:
Bologna is a city which has developed
along fairly harmonious lines – obviously
with its fair share of problems and
contradictions – in terms of developing
appropriate architectural structures and
buildings to suit its citizens' way of life and
recreational needs.
The city has many things going for it: it is
strategically located on the road network
which links the north to the south, it is a
cultural center and home of the oldest
university in Europe, it is the industrial
capital of the Pianura Padana region and
it is removed from the chaos of the capital
and the large Northern industrial cities,
which means it is not paralyzed by traffic
problems. It is easy to get around on foot,
by bicycle, on a bus, a scooter and in a
car(although this is not recommended for
getting around the historic city center).
This small, ancient, carefully-preserved
city is full of churches, museums, theaters
and thousands of other hidden treasures.
It isthe place to come if you want to
totally immerse yourself in culture. It
is also the city of the famous carnival
mask"Dr. Balanzone", of raucous students,
of markets and fairs, and oftortellini
andmortadella. In short, good food and
entertainment are never hard to find here.
78
Bologna's Taverns In 1300, Bologna
was already one of the most densely
populated cities in Europe, and contained
around 150 taverns. This impressive
figure probably had a lot to do with the
massive influx of students of all nationalities
who came here to study at its prestigious
university. The cream of European youth
would visit these taverns to sit around and
have long discussions, while munching
on sausages andmortadella and drinking
copious amounts of wine. They would come
to sing theGaudeamus Igitur and other
student songs, to be ironic and irreverent,
sometimes even scurrilous in their attitude
towards authority, the clergy and their
professors. Students, artists, hardened
drinkers, and famous intellectuals(such as
Olindo Guerrini and Giosuè Carducci) alike
could be found in these taverns and bars
every day.
Between the two world wars, many of these
taverns disappeared, but the Bolognese
still retained a penchant for drinking and
socializing. Today, there are over 200
taverns, wine bars, beer gardens and pubs
in the city. One of the most traditional and
characteristic taverns is the Osteria del
Sole, while the oldest are probably Osteria
da Mario and Osteria della Fondazza which
both have a very simple charm.
However, there are also several taverns
which have decided to go upmarket and
become refined and elegant; these have
transformed themselves into rustic-style
restaurants, such as Osteria Piazza
Grande, Osteria dei Poeti, Osteria del
Brancaleone, Osteria Santa Caterina and
Osteria dello Scorpione.
The pedestrian zone on Via del Pratello is
traditionally an extremely popular meeting
place. It is situated away from the hustle
and bustle of the traffic and is often the
scene of shows and seasonal markets.
Characterized by its low doorways and
streets paved in stone, the area is home
to a number of pubs and bars including
Birreria del Pratello, Monastero, Mutenye,
Il Rovescio, as well as social, cultural and
recreational groups such as Circolo Pavese
and also several bars which have managed
to maintain the old-fashioned charm of
working-class pubs such as Barazzo and
Osvaldo.
A couple of meters away is the beautiful
Piazza San Francesco on which stands
the Gothic church of the same name. In
front this is the Bar De' Marchi- the sort of
place where you can still play cards and
challenge veteran players to a game.
In the university district, there are numerous
pubs which are always full of young people,
who flock here in the late afternoon to take
advantage of the happy hour during which
they drink and chat. At the two opposite
ends of Via Zamboni, there is an Irish pubClauricane Irish Pub- and an English pubThe Lord Lister's English Pub. Also on Via
Zamboni is Caffè del Museo which offers
one of the most popular happy hours in the
city every Thursday night.
On Via delle Belle Arti, you will find an
Italian-style pub- Contavalli. On Via Borgo
San Pietro stands the Corto Maltese,
a"discopub" that is always very busy and
stays open until late and Le Stanze(del
Tenente), an elegant cocktail bar housed
inside the Palazzo Bentivoglio. Finally, on
Via Mascarella you will find Naked- a small,
alternative pub which presents a different
DJ every night, the more elegant Bravo
Café and Cantina Bentivoglio- a wine bar
serving food that has been hosting live jazz
performances every night for the last ten
years.
Music 18th and 19th century music in
Bologna is associated with great figures
such as Father Martini, Gioachino Rossini,
Richard Wagner(who became an honorary
citizen of Bologna), Ferruccio Busoni
and Ottorino Respighi. Antonio Bibiena
left the city his masterpiece – the Teatro
Comunale, which was inaugurated on May
26, 1763 with the performance ofIl Trionfo
di Clelia. Melodramas have been staged
in this magnificent theater from the 18th
Century through to the present day. The
repertoire of opera and symphonies at the
Teatro Comunale, as well as the work of
the Conservatory and the Bologna Festival
have kept the city's passion for classical
music very much alive.
However, Bologna also has a strong
attraction to jazz, and many famous
international jazz musicians have graced its
stages: from Chet Baker, Steve Grossman
and Bill Frisell to Richard Galliano. The
Bologna jazz circuit covers a number of
pubs and bars that are convinced that
good wine and good music should go
hand in hand. These include Cantina
Bentivoglio, Chet Baker Jazz Club and
Osteria dell'Orsa.
Bologna is also the home of many great
singers. It has always been an important
center for pop music, and has seen artists
such as Francesco Guccini and Lucio Dalla
as well as many other groups and young
bands rise up out of obscurity and make
the big time. There are several clubs which
although not overly spacious, have always
hosted pop concerts, such as Il Covo and
Officina Estragon.
Cinema In this century, the Emilia
Romagna region has shown itself to be
– in the words of film historian Renzo
Renzi –"the land of cinema". Many famous
directors have worked and produced their
best work here in Emilia Romagna and
Bologna. These include luminaries such
as Michelangelo Antonioni, Pupi Avati,
Bernardo Bertolucci and Federico Fellini.
Bologna therefore became an important
center for cinematographic culture. This
was further strengthened in the 1960s and
1970s with the founding of the Cinema
Commission(by Renato Zanghieri) and the
institution of the DAMS – a degree course
based on contemporary arts, music and
drama, with particular reference to cinema.
This cinematographic culture is of course
provided for the benefit of the public.
Bologna probably has the highest number
of passionate cinema-goers in the whole
country – it definitely has the largest
number of cinemas. This is probably
partially due to the activities of the Cineteca
Communale which attempted to promote
cinema-going with the construction of a
major cinema – Il Lumière- which showed
re-runs of an extensive range of both
classical and contemporary classics for
people to re-discover.
The Cineteca Communale also organizes a
variety of festivals. These include:Cinema
Ritrovato- an open-air summer festival
which screened masterpieces of silent
cinema to the accompaniment of live
music,Future Film Festival which,
since a few years ago has been taking
place annually. This festival details
new cinematographic technologies and
developments in the world of animation. A
couple of major non-commercial cinemas
in Bologna which are worth a visit are
il Roma and Adriano. The latter also
shows a cycle of films in their original
language entitledManiamerica. The Medusa
Multicinema is a futuristic, multi-screened
cinema which predominantly features
79
Hollywood blockbusters. Its brand-new
rooms offer extreme comfort and the best
new technologies with regard to sound and
picture quality.
Theatre Theatre is very popular in
Bologna: the university hosts various
initiatives, there are numerous theatre
schools, the repertoires are varied and
the public is enthusiastic. Many interesting
events and meetings are organized here all
the time. The city's main theatre is Arena
del Sole. The restoration work- finished in
1996- gave rise to a spacious theater split
into two rooms: the larger room is dedicated
to major performances featuring worldfamous artists and the smaller one- Sala
Interaction- is given over to experimental
work and avant-garde theater. One of
the oldest theaters in the city is Teatro
Duse which is part of the Ente Teatrale
Italiano(Italian Theatre Association).
Another historic theatre is Teatro delle
Moline, which is extremely small(it has
a capacity of 50) but very successful. It
is used by the artistic directors Marinella
Manicardi and Prof. Gozzi(a DAMS
graduate) for experimental work featuring
predominantly Italian artists.
Teatro Dehon and Teatro delle Celebrazioni
offer more commercial shows, particularly
the latter which tends to put on musicals
and cabaret shows. A more elite and
intellectual audience can go and see avantgarde repertoires at Teatri di Vita, which
also stages contemporary dance shows.
Children's theatre is not overlooked: Testoni
Ragazzi- a theater and arts center for
children and young people- offers a series
of shows and workshops for children. There
are also many other theaters in the rest of
the province, where theatre-going is no less
popular. These include Teatro Consorziale
di Budrio.
©
Milan:
There are many different areas in Milan
to explore, but a great place to start is
Brera, because it is a district that is famed
for its nightlife and restaurants, but also
has art galleries to visit in the day and
glorious palaces that played an important
role in Milan's history. Even if you cannot
enter these palaces(because they are still
private residences or offices), you can still
drink in their beauty from the outside, as
you wander down the narrow streets. It is
best to take the Metro to reach Brera. The
nearest stops are Lanza, Moscova(line 2)
and Cairoli(line 1).
There are a number of things to do
during the day in Brera, such as visit the
Pinacoteca di Brera(the Brera Art Gallery),
which is found in the same building as
the Academy of Brera, Milan's School of
Fine Arts. This gallery has 30 rooms of
paintings from different eras. Not to miss
are Mantegna'sDead Christ,Madonna and
the Saints by Piero della Francesca, or
theWedding of the Virgin by Raffaello.
Those who prefer to occupy their time with
lighter pursuits can visit various art galleries
around the Via Centrale and surrounding
streets of Via Ciovasso and Monte di
Pietà. There are antique shops and shops
selling quality handmade goods, and on
Via Solferino and Corso Garibaldi you can
browse in some exquisite boutiques. If
you feel guilty about all of the purchases
you have made, indulge in your shopper's
remorse while wandering alongside the
peaceful Martesana Canal(Leonardo da
Vinci allegedly designed the locks). As
mentioned before, the real attraction of
Brera is its nightlife; once made up of piano
bars, the district is now full of bars and
restaurants. The Jamaica, at the end of
Via Brera, was popular with intellectuals in
the 1960s, and is still a good place for an
aperitif. There's also Moscatelli, a small bar
with a huge choice of wines, and El Tombon
de San Marc, the first English pub in Milan,
which also serves sandwiches, cold dishes
and salads.
Brera also has good restaurants, which
thankfully stay open until late. In the same
street at number 24 is the Latteria di San
Marco, a very famous and very crowded
small Lombardy restaurant, that is very
affordable. Also popular is La Libera in
Via Palermo, which serves traditional
Italian food, and La Briciola on the corner
of Via Solferino and Via Marsala, which
serves outstanding soup, something
which Milanese restaurants are not often
commended for! Brera also has a wide
choice of international cuisine.
Brera is a definitely a gem of a district
waiting to be discovered by night owls
and"morning people" alike.
If you are in the heart of thecentro storico,
stop by the famous Duomo, which began
construction towards the end of the 14th
Century. The restoration and cleaning
of the facade began in 2004 and was
recently completed. Nearby is the worldrenowned Teatro alla Scala, site of the
premieres of such famous operas asNorma
by Vincenzo Bellini,Otello by Giuseppe
Verdi, andMadama Butterfly andTurandot
by Giacomo Puccini.
©
Travel Tips
Milan:
Getting There
Air Milan is served by three airports.
Malpensa Airport(MXP)(+ 39 02 748 5220/
http://www.sea-aeroportimilano.it/), the
largest, handles more than 16 million
passengers a year, and is the farthest(30
miles) from the city center. The airport
closest to the city is Linate(+39 02 7485
2200/ http://www.sea-aeroportimilano.it/),
about 20 minutes from downtown
Milan(mostly serving budget airlines and
other inner European flights). The third
airport is Orio al Serio(+39 02 7485 2200/
http://www.sea-aeroportimilano.it/), which
is about a 45 minute drive from Milan.
Malpensa Airport hosts the following
airlines:
Air Canada( +1 888 247 2262/ http://
www.aircanada.ca/) Air China( +86 4008
100 999/ http://www.airchina.com.cn/)
Air France( +1 800 871 1366/ http://
www.airfrance.com/) Aer Lingus( +1 800
474 7424/http://www.aerlingus.com/)
Alitalia( +1 800 223 5730/ http://
www.alitalia.com/) American Airlines( +1
800 433 7300/ http://www.aa.com/)
British Airways( +1 800 247 9297/
http://www.ba.com/) Condor( +1 800
524 6975/ http://www7.condor.com/)
Continental( +1 800 231 0856/ http://
www.continental.com/) Delta( +1 800
221 1212/ http://www.delta.com/)
easyJet( +44 870 600 0000/ http://
www.easyjet.com/) Finnair( +1 800
950 5000/ http://www.finnair.com/)
Germanwings( +44 870 252 12 50/ http://
www1.germanwings.com/) Iberia( +1 800
772 4642/ http://www.iberia.com/) Jet
2( +44 207 150 0374/ http://www.jet2.com/)
Lufthansa( +1 800 645 3880/ http://
www.lufthansa.com/) Northwest( +1
800 225 2525/ http://www.nwa.com/)
80
US Airways( +1 800 622 1015/ http://
www.usairways.com/)
Getting from Malpensa(MXP) to Milan
Train: The Malpensa Express train(http://
www.malpensaexpress.it/) runs from the
airport terminal 1 to platforms 1 and 2 at
Cadorna train station every 27 and 57
minutes after the hour. Tickets are EUR 11
or EUR 13.50 on-board one-way(40 minute
journey) or EUR 14.50 or EUR 17 on-board
round trip.
Shuttle: The Malpensa Shuttle( http://
www.malpensashuttle.it/) departs from
Stazione Centrale di Milano on the hour
and every 20 and 40 minutes after the hour;
a one-way ticket runs EUR 6 one-way(50
minute journey) or EUR 10 round trip.
Air Pullman(+39 02 5858 3202/ http://
airpullman.com/) operates a shuttle
between the airport and Stazione Centrale,
Milan Fiera, Milan Lampugnano and Piazza
Castello. They also have service between
Malpensa and Linate airports.
Car Rentals: From the Malpensa Airport,
take the A8 or A26 to Milan. Rental Car
companies include:
Alamo( +1 800 327 9633/ http://
www.alamo.com/) Dollar( +1 800 4000/
http://www.dollar.com/) Thrifty(+1 800 367
2277/ http://www.thrifty.com/)
Getting from Milano Linate(LIN) to Milan
Shuttle: The Malpensa Shuttle(http://
www.malpensashuttle.it/) also operates
service between Linate and Stazione
Centrale di Milano, as well as a service
between the two airports.
Bus: Bus 73 runs from the airport to metro
station San Babila(MM1, red line) and just
one stop from the Duomo.
Train
Stazione Centrale di Milano is one of
Europe's main train stations. The building,
inaugurated in 1931, is an architectural
wonder; Vittorio Emanuele III himself laid
the cornerstone in 1906. It is, therefore
not surprising that you can get to just
about anywhere in Italy or Europe from
this hub. For more information about Italy's
rail system, visit their website at:http://
www.ferroviedellostato.it/.
Getting Around
Public Transport
Public Transportation The ATM(Azienda
Trasporti Milanesi) manages the
metropolitan area of Milan with extensive
railway, tram, trolley and bus lines.( http://
www.atm-mi.it/)
Milan's subway system orMetropolitana
has three lines: Linea 1(red), Linea
2(green), and Linea 3(yellow). The urban
rail,Passante Ferroviario is blue. As
throughout the rest of Italy, tickets can be
purchased at newsstands,tabacchi, or from
machines in certain areas. The price for a
ticket is EUR 1, but one(EUR 3) and twoday(EUR 5.50) passes are also available
and are a great option if you plan to use
the system a lot. Tickets must be validated
by the rider at the time of their use, and
they are valid 75 minutes from the time
they are stamped. Make sure to stamp
your ticket as public transport is often
checked by controllers and non-validated
tickets can result in unpleasant experiences
and hefty fines. If you plan to ride more
than once, consider a tourist pass, or just
buy a few tickets at once to use when
needed. Most of the main sites are located
downtown, and are within easy walking
distance from the Duomo metro stop. For
those traveling to other parts of the city, the
modern subway system is a great option,
but trains stop running at midnight. Trams,
trolleys, and buses operate lines all night,
see ATM's website for more information and
route details.
Taxi
Taxis can be hailed on the streets, although
it can be difficult to actually get one to stop.
Taxi ranks are found in the center and
throughout the city; these are a much better
bet. Taxis are usually white or yellow, and
the main companies are Radiotaxi( +39
02 6767 or 5353) and Autoradio( +39 02
8585). If you call for a taxi, be forewarned
that the meter starts as soon as the call
is received. Even so, they are not as
expensive as many other European cities
and can be a great way to get around.
©
Fun Facts
Milan:
MilanProvince: LombardyCountry: Italy
Milan By The Numbers:
Population: 1,300,000(city);
7,400,000(metropolitan)
Elevation: 211 m/ 692 ft
Average Annual Precipitation: 97 cm/ 38.3
in
Average July Temperature: 22°C/ 72°F
Quick Facts:
Major Industries: Textile manufacturing,
Chemical manufacturing, Food
manufacturing, Tourism, Shipbuilding
Electricity: 220 volts, 50Hz, round two- or
three-pin plugs
Time Zone: GMT+1
Area Code: 02
Did You Know?
Milan is the fashion center of the world.
The leading designers of apparel and
accessories are headquartered or have
major operations here, including Gucci,
Prada, Armani, Versace, and Dolce&
Gabbana.
Teatro alla Scala is one of Europe's major
Opera houses with a capacity of more than
2,000 seats.
©
81
Montpellier Snapshot
History
The history ofMonte pestelario is a story
of twists and turns that highlights the two
essential characteristics of this fascinating
city: ambition and intelligence. A former
trading post for spices, place of pilgrimage
and center of learning in the fields of
medicine and law, Protestant fief then
Royal capital of the Languedoc region,
Montpellier's strategic position in the heart
of the Mediterranean basin has ensured
it constant prosperity. Now the prefecture
of the Héraultdépartement, it's a city that
never ceases to amaze!
From Modest Beginnings... Montpellier
is very much a young upstart of a city
when compared to its venerable roman
neighbors of Nîmes and Narbonne. The
first settlement dates back to the late
10th century and passed into the hands
of the Guilhem family who remained the
city's rulers until the early 13th century.
Situated south of the roman road, thevia
Domitia, and close to well-traveled salt and
pilgrim routes, the early settlement grew
rapidly in the 11th century as it became a
favoured halt for pilgrims. At the end of the
12th century the now flourishing city was
enclosed by city walls of which the Tour
des Pins and the Tour de la Babotte are still
visible remnants.
...to a Medieval Metropolis A prosperous
trading center between Northern Europe,
Spain and the Mediterranean, the 13th
century saw the city reach something of
an apogee as it passed under the tutelage
of the King of Aragon, whose kingdom
extended across what is now Northern
Spain and Catalonia, and subsequently the
Kings of Majorca. Reputed as a center of
learning particularly open to Jewish and
Islamic thought, the established Schools of
Medicine and Law received recognition as
a University by Pope Nicholas IV in 1289.
Sold to the kingdom of France in 1349,
Montpellier was for a while considered
the second most important city in the
kingdom. However, the latter part of the
century was a sombre one, during which
successive plagues accounted for the
death of over a third of the population.
Nevertheless, by the 15th century the
city had recovered economically, notably
through the flourishing of the nearby port
of Lattes and the mercantile genius of the
royal treasurer Jacques Coeur, whose
name is still honored by the city.
A Protestant Stronghold during the
Wars of Religion... During the 1530's,
both the astronomer Nostradamus, famous
for his prophecies, and the writer, priest
andbon vivant Rabelais studied medicine
at Montpellier. The faculty later benefited
from the establishment of France's oldest
botanical garden Jardin des Plantes during
the reign of France's king Henri IV. In
1553, the city gained a cathedral as the
Bishopric was permanently transferred from
Maguelone, whose abandoned abbey can
still be seen overlooking the Mediterranean
less than 10 miles from Montpellier.
The Protestant Reformation, however,
gained many converts in Montpellier as
elsewhere in the south of France. As a
major Huguenot(as French Protestants had
come to be called) stronghold, Montpellier
possessed one of the most beautiful
Protestant churches of its time, but the
subsequent Wars of Religion destroyed
all religious edifices within the city walls
except for the fortress-like Cathedral St
Pierre. The Edict of Nantes of 1598, which
recognized the right of Protestants to
worship and granted them other basic
freedoms in certain designated towns and
cities, resulted in a brief period of relative
calm, but conflict once more erupted twenty
years later in the last of the religious wars.
Finally in 1622 the king of France Louis
XIII oversaw the siege of the rebellious
Protestant city, which resisted two months
of bombardment before a negotiated
settlement was reached. Royal rule was
once again established and the return of
Catholic domination of the city was finally
ensured by the revocation of the Edict of
Nantes in 1685.
...becomes the Royal Capital of the
Languedoc Many features of the current
city center have their origin in the Wars
of Religion and the subsequent 17th and
18th century renovations that transformed
the city. Many squares such as the Place
Jean Jaures and Place Chabanneau were
formed from destroyed churches, while
the citadel built following the siege of
1622 was to guarantee the loyalty of the
city to the crown rather than to ensure
its protection. Montpellier was subject to
further expressions glorifying the monarch
such as the Arc de Triomphe as it became
the royal capital of the Languedoc and the
accompanying nobility were responsible
for many of the most elaboratehôtels and
distinctive architecture of the historic center.
Other landmarks such as the Hôtel St
Côme and the Promenade du Peyrou, not
to mention the Place de la Comédie all date
from this epoch and still shape the life of
the city.
A Provincial City built on Wine... The
development of wine making in the region
during the 19th century helped fuel the
economy of the city and led to another
wave of urban renovation and renewal.
While some of the grandiose projects
never reached completion, many are still
major features of the city, whether it be
the distinctive spire of the Carré St Anne,
the incomplete St Roch or the Palais
de Justice. Boom was followed by bust
as the outbreak of the fungal disease
Phylloxera, in the 1890's destroyed over
a third of the vines and the expanding
vineyards in Algeria rendered the vineyards
of Languedoc uneconomical.
...seeks to become a New Metropolis
A unassuming provincial city for most of
the 20th century, Montpellier has been
transformed into a city of expansive
ambitions and a growth rate to match. In
the 1960's the population rose by over
a third as ex-patriots and immigrants
arrived from Algeria. Over the past twenty
years, Montpellier has continued to grow
under the uncompromising vision of the
socialist mayor, Georges Frêche, and the
city once ranked 25th is currently the 8th
largest city in France. This rapid growth
has been matched by increasingly lavish
and distinctive projects, from the entirely
new, neo-classical district of Antigone and
82
Montpellier Snapshot continued
the developments along the river Lez, to
the rejuvenation of the city center and the
return of the tramway to the city streets. An
administrative center, doted with a major
research, university and medical facilities,
Montpellier seems determined to once
again becoming an intellectual, cultural
and technological center of Europe and the
Mediterranean.
©
Hotel Insights
Montpellier is a young city, due to a
population that is mostly composed of
international students, and it has a rich
and historical inheritance. It comes as no
surprise therefore to find so many different
kinds of hotels in this city; different prices
and architectural styles, which range
from old town houses to superb, modern
buildings.
The most luxurious hotel is Le Jardin des
Sens, a marvelous place in the heart of
the city, with a rich mahogany decor. The
hotel restaurant is one the most famous in
France, and a good reason to spend your
stay in Montpellier in this hotel.
If you are looking for a quiet but central
place, Hôtel du Parc enjoys both these
attributes. Situated in a calm quarter of
Montpellier, this hotel is like an oasis in the
city center. A former eighteenth-century
manor house, it has been totally renovated
to include comfortable rooms and a superb
garden.
There are several hotels in the city center,
not far from the railway and bus stations,
and only minutes from the city's main
square, La Place de la Comédie. Due to its
structure, this square is calledl'oeuf(egg)
by the population—it is the heart of the city
and an excellent meeting place, too. The
most striking of these central hotels is the
Hôtel Sofitel Antigone, an impressivelytall pyramidal building. It is situated right
next to the city's biggest shopping mall, the
Polygone. If you stay in the upper floors,
you'll enjoy a view over the whole town.
Another large hotel in the city center is
the Hôtel Mercure Montpellier Antigone.
This hotel is situated in the quarter of
Antigone, and offers a luxurious and wellfurnished interior. Why not take a dip in
the nearby Olympic swimming pool or
visit the city's new library? Both are only a
couple of minutes from the hotel. You can
take refreshments in the hotels bar and
restaurant after your tour of the historic
quarter. The Inter Hôtel Montpellier is
another good centrally-located option.
The railway and bus stations are just
moments away, and the town center is
easily accessible on foot. There are several
more moderately-priced hotels in the center
of town. The more popular ones are the
Royal Hôtel next to the Comédie, the Hôtel
de la Comédie, just by the historic quarter,
and the Hôtel Le Mistral, situated in a small
street leading directly to the Place de la
Comédie.
Several hotel chains have chosen to
establish themselves in Montpellier and its
environs. Campanile have four hotels in the
city, one to the east right in the Millénaires
Parc(Hôtel Campanile Montpellier Est Le
Millénaire), one to the north next to the little
town of Saint-Clément de Rivière(Hôtel
Campanile Montpellier Nord Saint-Clément
de Rivière), another one to the south, only
10 minutes from the sea(Hôtel Campanile
Montpellier Sud Centre), and the last one to
the west, next to Saint-Jean de Vedas(Hôtel
Campanile Montpellier Ouest Saint-Jean
de Vedas). All these hotels have meeting
rooms and well-appointed bedrooms.
The Ibis chain proposes four hotels in
Montpellier too. Two of them are situated
right in the center(IBIS Montpellier Centre)
and next to the Place de la Comédie(IBIS
Suites Montpellier Place de la Comédie).
The two others are situated in the south
not far from the sea(IBIS Montpellier Sud),
and by the city of Fabrègues, in the west of
Montpellier(IBIS Montpellier Fabrègues).
The Novotel Montpellier, in the south of the
city, has a comfortable atmosphere, and is
close to the sea. The rooms are spacious
and well furnished, and ten conference
rooms are available.
If you prefer to self-cater, Montpellier has
two residential Citadines Apart Hotels. The
first one is situated in the north of the city, in
the students' quarter, next to the university's
science and arts faculties(Citadines Apart
Hôtel Montpellier Sainte-Odile). The other
one is more centrally located in the futuristic
Antigone quarter(Citadines Apart Hôtel
Montpellier Antigone).
The nearby beaches of the Mediterranean
are a highlight of any stay in Montpellier.
There are several spas only 10 kilometers
from the city center, which offer wellequipped, comfortable hotels. The Palavasles-flots spa offers visitors a seaside
holiday. The Hôtel Le Grand Large and the
Hôtel Le Tanagra are two other comfortable
and reasonably-priced options. The small
town of Carnon is another spa, only a few
minutes from the center of Montpellier. Here
you can choose between the Hôtel Hélios
or the Le Gédéon for your holiday; both are
well furnished and comfortable.
Montpellier has its own international airport.
Businessmen and tourists requiring a hotel
by the airport have a choice of two. The
Air Hôtel and the Hôtel Lamira offer a
comfortable stay and conference rooms.
Finally, for golfers and sportsmen, there's
a great hotel not far from the city. The Golf
Hôtel Blue Green Fontcaude, next to the
small town of Juvignac, only five kilometers
from Montpellier, offers golf holidays. An 18
hole"international" golf course and a 9 hole
course are available, and you can book golf
lessons and courses for all levels. After a
round, why not relax in the hotel swimming
pool? Conference rooms are available too.
©
Nightlife Insights
Montpellier's constant stream of newcomers
soon discover that there's plenty to see and
do in this young, cosmopolitan, university
city: it has something for everyone, for all
age groups and at all kinds of prices… Not
only has the city much to offer culturally—
reflected in the excellent choice provided by
its theaters, cinemas and galleries—party
animals will welcome the city's dynamic
nightlife, and walking enthusiasts will enjoy
Montpellier's superb location, just a short
distance from the coast and mountains.
83
Museums& Galleries
Culture lovers will enjoy the city's wealth
of art, in particular the fine collection of
European paintings(from Renaissance
times to the 20th century) on show in the
Musée Fabre, the forever changing and
totally captivating exhibitions held in the
Galerie Photo de l'Esplanade, or Carré
Saint-Anne's display of contemporary
art. Open to all, the Musée Agropolis
retraces the evolution of farming and the
food processing industry worldwide and
looks into their future. Those interested
in local history should make a beeline
for the Musée Languedocien, which
has magnificent antique and medieval
collections, as well as the Vieux Montpellier
museum for its antique objects and
furniture.
Cinemas and theaters
Film buffs will find that Montpellier is
well catered for cinema-wise with two
huge multiplexes: the Méga CGR and
the Gaumont Multiplexe, both of which
are situated on the outskirts of the city.
Art-house cinema doesn't do badly either
with the city's four Diagonal film theaters
screening films in their original languages.
As far as theater is concerned, there are
many different kinds to suit all ages. Small
children will adore the shows put on in the
Petit Théâtre de la mer, a small theatre
situated in the seaside town of Palavas,
just 8km from Montpellier. Adults will
enjoy the performances in La Paillade's
Théâtre Jean-Vilar on the outskirts of
Montpellier, the season at the Théâtre
Moliéres in nearby Sète, the programme
in Clermont-l'Hérault's Théâtre Municipal
or the Théâtre Lakanal des Beaux-arts'
offerings. These theaters offer a wide range
of plays performed by highly-acclaimed
local, national and international theater
companies.
Bars and clubs
There are loads of bars to choose from for
a pre-theater drink, sitting out on the terrace
or ensconced in unique surroundings that
give each bar its own particular charm. In
Fitzpatrick's — a typically Irish pub—you
can enjoy a pint of draft beer in pleasant
surroundings. Fun too are the theme
evenings organized in the Fil and the Inédit.
If sitting out on the terrace is more your
scene, head for Roule Ma Poule or the La
Place bar, both of which overlook two of the
city's prettiest squares. Once the evening's
in full swing, a young, student crowd meets
up in the Macadam Pub or the Odyssée,
while those of more mature years tend to
favor the cozier, more intimate surroundings
of the Circus or the Comptoir.
For jazz fans, the best bet is the Jam, while
blues features in the Cargo. Antirouille is
the place to go to for world and popular
French music, and if you like your music
mega-loud, you can get an earful in the
Salle Victoire 2 in Saint Jean de Védas
or the Rockstore in town, also run as a
nightclub.
A number of nightclubs, most of them
situated along the coastline near
beach resorts, let clubbers in for free:
there's Matchico(varied clientele and
music), Pulp(great interior design), Villa
Rouge(techno music, gay and hetero
clientele), and Souleil Galerie(the bronzed
hordes' favorite!) for those die-hard
clubbers among you!
Walks
As well as taking in the city's cultural
treasures and enjoying its lively nightlife,
trips to the seashore and walking
in the area will do you a world of
good. Montpellier is just 8km from the
sea(Palavas, La Grande Motte being just
two of several nearby seaside resorts...)
and 30km or so from the Cévennes, where
you can try your hand at activities such as
canoeing, rock climbing... Blow away those
cobwebs and have a complete change of
scene by taking off into thegarrigue, or wild
moorland to visit charming little villages like
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, caves(such as
the Grotte des Demoiselles or the Grotte
de Clamouse) and natural cirques such
as the Cirque de Mourèze and the Cirque
de Navacelles. Venture that little bit further
and the Haut Languedoc national park has
many more surprises in store.
©
The best starting point for these tours is
Place de la Comédie, the very heart of
the city. Laid out in the 18th century with
the magnificent Opéra Comédie theater
—an exact copy of Paris' opera house—
on your left and the fountain of the Three
Graces in the center, this wide open space
is a naturally popular meeting place where
people are always coming and going. Now
pedestrianized, the square is also known
asplace de l'œuf(Egg square) because of
the curved shape of the road that previously
went through the square, which was
particularly busy with heavy traffic up until
the mid-1980s. A walk up Rue de la Loge
will take you to the historic town center—a
largely pedestrianized area—also referred
to as the"Ecusson" or"shield" because
of its shape, which means you can stroll
at your leisure, far from the noise of the
traffic, through streets that have held onto
their charm. On the other hand, should you
choose to go to the far side of the square
on the right and through the Polygone
shopping center, you'll discover another
facet of the city: its modern, residential
areas.
The historic town center
The best way to get to Montpellier's historic
town center from Place de la Comédie, is
to take one of the city's busiest shopping
streets, Rue de la Loge, which has
boutiques such as Chapellerie Alfred, and
from which you'll be able to climb up onto
theClapas, the old Occitan name for the
town, which means"little pile of stones". On
the right, halfway along this street, marblecovered Jean Jaurès square and its many
bars with terraces, are, once night falls, a
favorite spot for young students out to enjoy
themselves. Meanwhile on your left, is the
Halles Castellane, where the colorful Halles
aux Fleurs market takes place.
At the end of Rue de la Loge, after Place
des Martyrs de la Résistance in which the
city's prefecture is situated, turn right into
84
tiny, but very pretty, Place Chabaneau,
taking note of the Hôtel de Ganges, which
is one of the many town houses built
between the 17th and 18th centuries. From
here, taking Rue du Palais des Guilhem on
the left(named after a dynasty that brought
prosperity to Montpellier from the moment it
was founded, around 1000 A.D.), at 1, Rue
de la Barralerie, you come to the Mikve,
the oldest Jewish baths in Europe, which
date from the 12th century(visits can be
arranged through the Tourist Office.) A
little further on, stopping for a drink at the
Antidote Café in Place de la Canourgue
— one of Montpellier's most beautiful and
authentic squares, paved throughout and
decorated with little gardens—might not be
a bad idea.
At the far side of Place de la Canourgue,
pause for a moment in front of the fine 18th
century Richer de Bellreview town house
to enjoy the unrestricted view of imposing
Saint Pierre Cathedral, built in the 14th
century. Go down Rue Sainte Croix and
Rue Saint Pierre to get to the cathedral,
and you come to its large square and vast
entrance; the two huge columns are the
outstanding features of the only church
in Montpellier to have survived the wars
of religion.(The church was, furthermore,
restored in the 17th century.) Running
on from here is the former Benedictine
monastery taken over by the Faculty of
Medicine, which was founded in 1289 and
has the distinction of being one of Europe's
oldest.
Walk up Rue de l'Ecole de Médecine
and cross Boulevard Henri IV and the
enchanting fragrances and greenery that
abound in the restful Jardin des Plantes
beckon, inviting you to wander through its
flowers, bamboo and tropical rain forest.
Initiated by Henri IV in 1593, this is one of
France's oldest botanical gardens. From
here, going back up Boulevard Henri IV
on the right, you come to the pleasant
Promenade du Peyrou, an esplanade
marked by two statues of roaring lions.
This former corn-threshing site became,
in the 18th century, a place much coveted
by royalty and is graced by a statue of
Louis XIV. From this high point, there's a
wonderful view: on one side the Larzac
plateau, the Cévennes and Saint Loup
Peak, while on the other, even the sea is
visible on a clear day. At the end of the walk
is an unusual-looking water tower whose
reservoir is an extension of the les Arceaux
aqueduct, where a great organic market
takes place on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Taking a walk here(depending on the time
of the day), also provides the opportunity of
sampling some of the seafood specialties
available in La Bonne Bouille restaurant.
Going back towards the heart of the city
by Rue Foch, you pass close to the Arc de
Triomphe, erected in 1691 in honor of Louis
XIV. On the left stands the former Palais de
Justice(Law Courts), built in a neoclassical
style on the site of a former castle. Finally,
the visit finishes off on an artistic note. Take
Rue du Petit Scel on the right, which leads
to illuminated Carré Sainte Anne, a former
church and a superb exhibition space,
which nowadays houses a contemporary
art gallery.
From Antigone to the banks of the Lez
Filled with offices and housing, the
Antigone district was designed in 1979 by
Catalonian architect Ricardo Bofill. This
place, which for some looks like a film set,
brings together a number of architectural
influences: its classical but it incorporates
the urban style of 20th century totalitarian
countries such as the USSR and other
former Eastern bloc countries. These
colossal buildings are painted in quite light,
uniform colors, and Antigone is oriented
towards the Mediterranean.
Once you've gone through the Polygone
shopping center, made up of a large
number of shops spread over three levels,
you come out onto Place du Nombre
d'Or, which provides a huge vista dotted
with trees, with, in the distance, Regional
Council headquarters.
From here there's a succession of squares
that lead from one to the other: first of all
there's Place du Millénaire, which is calm
and like a pedestrian precinct, and then
you go under the arch on which the luxury
restaurant Chandelier is situated. Once
you've crossed Place de Thessalie, you
find yourself directly opposite two buildings
designed to improve living standards in the
area: the Olympic-sized swimming pool and
the new main library.
Keep going and you come back to the huge
amphitheater of the Esplanade de l'Europe,
a strange, shell-like space of impressive
size. Then, walking past the many bars
and restaurants situated here(such as the
Valli and El Cuba Café), you see a building
made entirely of glass—the Regional
Council headquarters and its fountain. You'll
now find yourself on the banks of the Lez.
©
Travel Tips
Getting There:
By Air:
The Montpellier Mediterranee
Airport(+33 04 6720 8500/ http://
www.montpellier.aeroport.fr) provides
service to over 60 destinations in France,
Europe and worldwide with airlines
including:
Air Algerie(+33 04 95 09 30 90)
Air France(+33 0 820 820 820/ http://
www.airfrance.com)
Air Horizons(+33 04 67 64 73 37/ http://
www.safartours.fr)
British Airways(+33 0825 825 400/ http://
www.britishairways.com)
Norwegian(+47 21 49 00 15/ http://
www.norwegian.no)
Ryanair(+33 0 892 555 666/ http://
www.ryanair.com)
Sterling.dk Airline(+457 033 3370/ http://
www.sterlingticket.com)
Shuttles are available to and from the
Airport and Montpellier city center and are
located outside of gate A. Shuttles run
about once an hour.
Taxi ranks are located outside the Arrivals
Hall in gate A. Contact a taxi at+33 04 67
20 65 29.
Rental car companies at the Montpellier
Airport include: Ada(+33 04 67 20 02 12/
85
http://www.ada.fr) Avis(+33 04 67 20 14 95/
http://www.avis.fr) Europcar(+33 04 27 99
82 00/ http://www.europcar.fr) Hertz(+33
04 67 20 04 64/ http://www.hertz.fr)
National Citer(+33 04 67 15 13 47/ http://
www.citer.fr) Sixt(+33 04 67 65 33 75/ http://
fr.e-sixt.com)
Perpignan, and hourly from Paris' Gare de
Lyon. Call+33 08 36 35 35 35 for detailed
rail information. International rail service is
available by TGV(high speed trains;http://
www.tgv.com). The railway station is
located in the city center at Place Auguste
Gilbert.
By Bus:
Getting Around:
Eurolines(http://www.eurolines.com)
provides international service throughout
much of Europe. There are direct buses
into Montpellier from Morocco, Spain,
Belgium, Portugal, Andorra, Italy, Great
Britain, Germany, Czech Republic, Poland,
and more. The bus station is right near the
train station by the Place de la Comedie in
the center of Montpellier.
Montpellier has convenient public
transportation. The tramway(+33 04 67
22 87 87) runs east and west throughout
Montpellier while bus services offer
transportation around the city and
surrounding areas.
By Train:
Plenty of taxis can be flagged down
throughout the city. Major cab companies
include: Allo Taxi D'oc(+33 04 67 47 26
80) Taxi 2000(+33 04 67 03 45 45) Taxi
a Montpellier(+33 04 67 20 35 20) Taxi
Jem(+33 04 67 45 07 75) Taxi Tram(+33 04
67 58 10 10)
©
Several trains arrive in Montpellier daily
from Avignon, Marseille, Toulouse and
Fun Facts
By Car:
Montpellier is served by the A9 and the A75
highways.
Montpellier by the Numbers:
Population: 244,700 Elevation: 16 feet
Average Annual Precipitation: 27.9 inches
Average January Temperature: 42 degrees
F Average July Temperature: 72 degrees F
Quick Facts:
Major Industries: textiles, metal goods,
wine, printed material, chemicals Electricity:
220 volts, 50Hz, standard two pin plugs
Time Zone: GMT/UTC+1 Country Dialing
Code: 33 Area Code: 67
Did You Know?
The University of Montpellier is one of
the oldest in France and is renowned
for its medical school, which is where
Nostradamus qualified as a doctor.
Orientation:
Montpellier is located in southern France
near the Mediterranean Sea. The city lies
100 miles northwest of Marseilles, 471
miles southwest of Paris and 31 miles
southwest of Nimes.
©
Montpellier Country: France
86
Barcelona Snapshot
Local Info
Rich in history and design, renowned for
its state of the art architecture, cutting
edge cuisine, gorgeous landscapes and
thriving night life, Barcelona is a place
that will pull you in and make it hard to
leave. Nestled between the Mediterranean
and the Pyrenees, Barcelona is an ideal
fusion between the'old' and the'new'. Just
a twenty-minute walk and one can find
themselves transported through the ages
between the Gothic Quarter's medieval
alleyways and Roman Ruins into the
Eixample neighborhood full of Gaudi's
magnificent art nouveau(modernism)
masterpieces. It's a city laden with hidden
streets, niche courtyards, quaint boutiques,
rustic tapas bars, wide open patios and
terraces and a never ending'joie de vivre'.
It's not hard to understand why Barcelona
is the 16th most visited city and an artistic,
architectural and culinary leader across the
globe.
Spain's second largest city(behind Madrid)
and the capital of Catalonia, Barcelona
is home to some of the world's most
intriguing and exceptional architectural
structures, including Gaudi's Sagrada
Familia, Casa Batllo, La Pedrera, Parc
Guell and the Cathedral amongst many
other breathtaking buildings. Thanks to the
1992 Olympics Barcelona was brought'back
to life' and resumed its place on the world
stage as a top tourist destination. The'92
Olympics can take credit for the clean up
of Barcelona's waterfront, the creation of
Olympic village and the construction of the
grade sports' stadiums atop Montjuic. Today
Palau Sant Jordi and Camp Nou are used
to host concerts, festivals and of course, FC
Barcelona's football matches
When it comes to Barcelona's beaches,
there is no shortage of options. Barcelona's
beautiful coastline includes both natural and
man-made beaches that stretch for miles.
The Costa Brava is particularly serene and
its where you'll be able to find some of
the clearest water with the whitest sandy
beaches, only an hour or less outside of
the city. In Barcelona itself there are plenty
of great places to tan, swim, kite surf or
just enjoy some sangria at one of the many
chiringuitos(beach side huts) along the
boardwalk.
With regards to bars and clubs, Barcelona
is not lacking. It's a city with something for
everyone, whether you're into funk, hip hop,
electronic, house, pop, 80's rock or top 40,
it's one of the easiest cities to stumble from
place to place and enjoy an affordable,
exciting and very eclectic night out.
Barcelona is rare in that it's one of those
cities that truly has it all. Whether you're
looking to relax by the water, hike in the
mountains, explore art galleries, boutique
shop, learn about architecture, savor
delicious food or party until noon the
following day, this is a city with infinite
options one that will continuously keep you
on you toes.
© NileGuide
History
The 1992 Olympic Games turned the
world's eye to this age old city that has
been, and continues to be, a modern
presence in Spain. Barcelona has many
districts, giving it the feel of a large, Roman
city with an old, Gothic atmosphere. As
a powerful Mediterranean port and the
capital of Catalonia, this rich, historical
past is the foundation on which the new
city was based. Barcelona's residents are
open-minded and cosmopolitan, bringing
a Bohemian flavor to the city that lies
between the mountains and sea.
Romans arrived in Tarragona, making it
their first priority, and giving Barcelona
subordinate status. Later in the Visigothic
period, this Roman capital par excellence,
also had a downward fall.
After a century of Muslim dominion, there
was a period of intense commercial activity
and religious coexistence between Jews,
Christians and Muslims. With the arrival
of the Christian governors to the city,
the Muslim community was forced into a
prisoner zone named The Call. In present
day, The Call is located around the streets
Palla, Banys Nous, Bisbe and Plaça Sant
Jaume. Already, the large city had been
named the Condal City, acting as the
mighty capital of Old Catalonia. Following
the expansionist interests of Corona de
Aragón, Barcelona developed a powerful
naval base. Catalano-Aragonese's power
extended as far as Sicily, Sardinia, Malta,
Naples, Albania, Corsica and part of
Greece. They pioneered, establishing social
norms, marine rules and other customs that
would later be imitated in other European
cities. In the 15th century, the Maxima
institution of self-government of Catalonia
was given an admirable seat in the Palau
de la Generalitat. The medieval growth
of the city is represented in its Gothic
architecture, with magnificent works like
the cathedral, the churches of Sant Just,
and Sant Jaume, and the basilicas of Santa
María del Pi and Santa María del Mar
After the 15th-century reign of Castilla,
Barcelona, Catalonia and the Kingdom
of Aragón fell into a deep economic
and political depression because of the
marriage between Isabel and Fernando(the
famous post-Muslim era Catholic
monarchs). During these years, conquest
and colonization in America damaged
Mediterranean commerce during the height
of Turkey's great marine power. The final
blow came when Archduke Carlos of
Austria, whom Barcelona supported, lost
the War of Spanish Succession.
During the Industrial Revolution and the
period of cultural renaissance, the city
grew to its maximum splendor. With this
came the literary rebirth of the Catalan
language and the modernist movement, in
which artists and architects alike created a
city that would be admired worldwide. All
these movements were led by the industrial
bourgeoisie, and influenced by the
nationalistic movements of the European
countries that resisted the Castellanizadora
force. The houses built in the Barcelonian
Eixample display architecture from a
diverse range of historical influences.
Ildefons Cerdà, influenced by local folklore,
designed rectangular buildings for the
bourgeois. The most well-known and loved
87
Barcelona Snapshot continued
artist during this period was Antoni Gaudí,
who designed remarkable, modernist
works, such as the La Sagrada Familia,
Casa Milà(La Pedrera), the Casa Batlló,
and the Parc Güell.
During the postwar period and Francisco
Franco's dictatorship, a political and
cultural repression occurred across
Spain until Franco's death in 1975. Since
then, democracy has reigned. Under the
mandate of Pasqual Maragall, the city
began the construction of infrastructures
necessary for the 1992 Olympic Games.
Some of these structures are the Olympic
Vila, of accentuated modern design, the
Anella Olimpica of Montjüic and the Port
Olimpic.
©
If you're looking for an upscale room in
an elegant hotel, don't miss the Hotel
Rey Juan Carlos I, located at the end of
Diagonal. Another hotel that combines
luxury and comfort seamlessly is the grand
Gran Hotel Princess Sofía, suiting even the
finickiest traveler. The top floor restaurant
offers panoramic views and a menu as
exquisite as that of the Hotel Rey Juan
Carlos I.
Port Olímpic(Olympic Port)
This neighborhood's most fascinating piece
of architecture is surely the Hotel Arts
Barcelona, which you should at least take
a photo of, even if you can't afford to stay
there.
Les Corts
From cheap hostels to modern, luxurious
five-star hotels, Barcelona offers its guests
a variety of lodging choices in every
neighborhood.
The Hilton Barcelona offers comfort and
relaxation, living up to its reputation. Here
you will enjoy calm gardens, a central
location by the shopping and business
district, and panoramic views of the city and
the sea.
Gothic Quarter, Raval& La Ribera
L'Eixample
Whether you wish to stay in a newly
renovated hotel by the Plaça Reial, or pass
the night with like-minded backpackers at
a more economical accommodation like
Kabul, you will not be at a loss for options.
If you enjoy the relaxing atmosphere of a
modernist building, Le Meridien on Rambla
dels Estudis is a perfect choice. Many
of the three-star hotels within the Barri
Gòtic maintain the medieval architecture
characteristic of the neighborhood inside
and out. Hotel Gotico is just one of these
beauties, located close to Plaça Sant
Jaume. For a more high-end place in the
same district, Hotel Colón, located in front
of the Catedral La Seu, offers excellent
views of the city.
The sleek, marble entryway of Hotel
Majestic sits on Passeig de Gràcia, one
of the most elegant avenues to walk
down in all of Barcelona. Gran Via de les
Corts Catalanes, where the Hotel Palace
is located, is another one of the most
emblematic areas in the city. The Regina
is located within walking distance of the
commercial district.
Hotel Insights
Without leaving the heart of the city, there
are numerous other cozy accommodations,
such as the Hotel Rivoli Ramblas. Also
nearby is the recently renovated yet walletfriendly Hotel Husa International, which
allows you to watch colorful tourists walk
Las Ramblas from your room window.
Pedralbes
Arc de Triomf& Urquinaona
Hotel NH Pódium on Bailén street is a fourstar option with a beautiful neoclassical
façade.
Sants
Comfortable, no-nonsense Hotel NH
Numància is conveniently located near the
Sants train station.
Montjuïc& Plaça Espanya
You will not have a hard time finding a
hotel within easy reach of the Muntanya
de Montjuïc, a popular hill that offers a
pleasant view of the city. Located right
on Plaça Espanya is the four-star AC
Diplomatic, and on Avinguda del Paral.lel
you'll find the Barcelona Plaza(facing the
Palau Nacional). The nearby Expo Hotel
offers exceptional service in a modern
ambiance. From here, you can enjoy a
rejuvenating stroll to Plaça Espanya by
crossing Tarragona Avenue and passing
Miró's sculpture, Dona i l'Ocell("Woman
with Bird"), and la plaza de torosArenas de
Barcelona along the way, which has not
been used since 1977.
©
Barcelona's many restaurants and bars
offer the best of Catalonia's diverse cuisine.
Other Mediterranean countries, like France
and Italy, have heavily influenced Catalan
cooking, which features lots of fresh fruit
and vegetables, seafood, pork and veal.
Catalans love cold meats or(embutidos) of
all sorts, especially pork sausage(butifarra).
The staple dish isbutifarra amb mongetes,
a stew of pork sausage and white
beans.Escudella is a traditional stew made
with sausage, chickpeas, pasta and a
giant pork meatball. It's generally eaten
at Christmas time and followed bycrema
catalana, a sweet egg custard topped
with caramelized sugar that has become
a popular dessert throughout Spain.
Fish is also a major part of the Catalan
diet.Zarzuela is a tasty seafood casserole
that originated in Barcelona and spread to
other parts of the country.Bacallà a la llauna
is cod cooked in a tin dish. In summer, you
can enjoy lighter dishes likeescalibada(red
peppers mixed with eggplant and onions)
andesqueixada(red peppers with cod
and onions). Or head for one of the many
farmhouse(masía) restaurants on the
outskirts of the city and try some traditional
dishes. If you're lucky, the restaurant will
servecalçotada, a sauce(calçots) made
from tender spring onions served on an
oven-fired tile, followed by grilled meat.
Catalan dishes are usually accompanied
bypan con tomate, country-style bread
smeared liberally with ripe tomato, olive oil
and salt.
88
There are eight different areas in Catalonia
that produce good quality wines. The region
is famous for its white wines from the
Penedés area andcava, sparkling white
wines. There are also quality red wines,
particularly from the Priorato area.
Gothic Quarter, Raval& La Ribera
Basque cuisine is served in Irati and
Zure Etxea. You'll find three famous
traditional Catalan restaurants worth
visiting in the area around Monumento
a Colón(Columbus Monument): Ca
l'Isidre, Botafumeiro and Casa Leopoldo.
For bullfighting memorabilia and tapas,
try Los Toreros on Calle Xuclà, close
to Las Ramblas. There are also some
seafood restaurants with great views in the
Maremàgnum, an ultra-modern shopping
center by the harbor, close to Las Ramblas.
This part of town is also great for drinksyou'll find traditional, old-fashioned bars
and cafés as well as trendy, modern places
with stylish interior decor, like Glaciar
at the Plaça Reial. Nearby, check out
Sidecar. There's a good selection of pubs
on Calle Escudellers on your way into
the well-known Plaça George Orwell. For
pure modernist style inside and out, try El
Ascensor. If you want to sit outside and
enjoy an impressive view with your drinks,
try the square that looks on to Santa María
del Mar, Plaça del Pi or Sant Felip Neri.
L'Eixample
This part of town has quite a few Galician
restaurants like the famous Beltxenea,
which offers a variety of traditional dishes.
Don't miss the finger foods at Tapa Tapa.
Barceloneta& The Born
There are plenty of reasonably-priced
seafood restaurants down by the harbor
that specialize in paella and the Catalan
equivalent,fideuà, which is noodle-based
rather than rice-based.Arròs negre is a kind
of paella cooked in a stock of squid's ink.
Can Ramonet and Set Portes are two of the
best places for rice dishes in this district.
Munch on great tapas at Moncho's.
If it's drinks you seek, Passeig del Born
is lined with trendy bars and the adjacent
streets are full of well-preserved medieval
houses and mansions. This area attracts
couples and groups in their 30s and 40s
looking for sophisticated, relaxing and
intimate bars like the Miramelindo, Salero
and Gimlet.
Port Olímpic
The seafood restaurants at Port Olímpic
display their fresh fish in cases by the door
and many offer sea views.
Horta, Guinardó& Alfons X
Lots of informal tapas restaurants are
located along Passeig de Gràcia and
Rambla Catalunya. Traditional tapas
are small portions of things likepescaíto
frito(mixture of deep-fried Mediterranean
fish),patatas bravas(chunks of potato,
deep-fried and served with spicy garlic
sauce),calamares a la romana(squid
rings fried in batter) andboquerones en
vinagre(marinated anchovies). For the best
tapas in the whole city, try La Esquinica.
However, make sure you come early
because there is a line every night.
Plaça Catalunya
It's tapas central at Ciudad Condal, but this
bustling square knows no bounds in terms
of culinary diversity.
©
Nightlife Insights
Barcelona has become a fashionable tourist
destination. Television coverage of the 1992
Olympic Games stimulated lots of interest
in the city around the world. Visitors are
attracted by the mild climate, Mediterranean
waterfront, sunshine, art, culture, friendly
people and unique Catalan features, like
Antoni Gaudì's modernist architecture. It's
easy to have fun in Barcelona. There are
colorful localfiestas(holidays and festivals)
throughout the year along with a wide
variety of national and international cinema,
theater, music and dance festivals and
performances. The city's nightclubs offer
great music and atmosphere every night
of the week, and are especially busy from
Thursday to Sunday.
Museums& Galleries
Art lovers should head straight for
MNAC(Catalonia's National Art Museum),
with its exhibits of Catalan Romanesque
art, and MACBA(Barcelona's Museum
of Contemporary Art). Nearby, you'll find
galleries devoted to individual artists,
including Museu Picasso, Fundació Miró
and Antoni Tàpies.
Architecture
To see the best examples of Catalonia's
unique Gothic architecture, you should
check out Basílica de Santa María del Mar
and Basílica de Santa María del Pi. For
the best in modernist architecture, head for
Pedrera, Casa Batlló, Sagrada Familia, and
Parc Güell.
Nightlife
The most popular nightclubs are within
walking distance of each other down
by the harbor area, in Port Olímpic and
Maremàgnum. The variety is endless. You'll
find places playing techno, salsa, rock,
Spanish pop music and more. Karma is a
popular club in this area.
Live Music
L'Eixample district has many live music
venues, including the famous Luz de Gas.
Bikini, a popular nightclub, also hosts
concerts during the evenings. To enjoy
alternative and Spanish local bands, take
the metro to Razzmatazz, Sidecar or
BeCool. You'll also find live shows in the
Gòtic district.
Discos& Clubs
In the Maremàgnum and Port Olímpic
you'll find a number of discos with plenty
of atmosphere and different kinds of
music. These two districts have a very
cosmopolitan feel, given that they are
mostly frequented by tourists from all over
the world. To merge with the locals, take
public transportation to L'Eixample, Barri
Gòtic or Poble Nou.
©
Barcelona is a stunning city that is full of
historic and entertaining sites. If you simply
89
walk down any street in Barcelona you'll
stumble upon hidden gems and wonders.
Whether you have a guided tour or a selfguided tour, you'll be sure to be amazed.
Las Ramblas
The best way to get a feel for Barcelona
is to take a walk along Les Rambles(Las
Ramblas in Spanish). Start from Plaça
Catalunya and head down Rambla de
Canaletes, which gets its name from its
19th-century iron fountain. Carry on into
Rambla dels Estudis, named after the
university that was here until the early
18th century. Locals call itRambla dels
Ocells(Street of the Birds) because the
caged birds for sale keep up a noisy chatter
all day long. Across the Rambla, on the
corner of Calle Portaferrissa, you'll see
the late 18th-century Palau Moja. This
former palace, now headquarters of the
regional government's contemporary
history and culture department, has an
excellent bookshop. When you come to
the third street, Rambla de Sant Josep,
you'll suddenly be hit by a wave of color.
Flower sellers have been a feature of this
pedestrian area for over 200 years, hence
the popular name for it,Rambla de les
Flors(Street of Flowers). Carry on through
Plaça de la Boqueria, past Joan Miró's
huge mosaic in the middle of the pavement,
and into the fourth street, Rambla dels
Caputxins, where you'll find Gran Teatre del
Liceu. At the top of the fifth and final street,
Rambla de Santa Mònica, you'll come to
Teatre Principal. You'll also find the Museu
de Cera(Wax Museum) to the left and
hordes of pavement artists, performers and
musicians in the center of the pedestrian
area. Finish your walk by going to the
top of Monumento a Colón(Columbus
Monument) for aerial views of the city. Or
carry on into the harbor area of Port Vell
and Maremàgnum, a modern shopping
center.
L'Eixample
Start this tour of grid-shaped Eixample,
the city's commercial and business district,
at Plaça Catalunya. Go up Passeig de
Gràcia and look out for Gaudí's hexagonal
pavement designs on the way. After
crossing Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes
and Consell de Cent, you'll arrive at the
so-called Manzana de Discordia or,"Block
of Discord." This name arose because
three different architects, with widely
differing styles, built the three Modernist
buildings grouped here. On the left is Lluís
Domènech i Montaner's Casa Lleó Morera,
dating from 1906, with its elaborately
decorated entrance hall and staircase.
A few doors up, at no. 41, you'll come
to the striking facade of Josep Puig i
Cadafalch's Casa Amatller, dating from
1900. Next door is Gaudí's spectacular
Casa Batlló. Turn left on to the wide Calle
Aragó, cross over Rambla de Catalunya
and you'll see another of Lluís Domènech i
Montaner's works that has been converted
into Fundació Tàpies. Go back to Passeig
de Gràcia, continue north one block and
on the right you'll find an extraordinary
Modernist apartment building, Gaudí's Casa
Milà, also known asLa Pedrera, whose
upper floors and rooftop are open to the
public. You can spend all day exploring
Eixample and its many other Modernist
architectural gems, like Les Punxes or the
Conservatory.
Olympic Barcelona
If you want to tour the facilities used in the
1992 Olympic Games head to Muntanya
de Montjüic(Montjüic hill). The Montjüic
hill, or"hill of the Jews," got its name from
the Jewish community that once settled
on its steep slopes. One of the best ways
to get to the top is by walking from Plaça
Espanya, with its luminous fountains, up
to the Palau Nacional(National Palace).
This building now houses Museu Nacional
d'Art de Catalunya(MNAC), which displays
one of the world's finest collections of
Romanesque art. Carry on a little further
to Poble Espanyol(Spanish Village), where
Spain's regional styles of architecture have
been reproduced. The walk to Castell
de Montjüic(Montjüic castle), on the far
eastern corner of the hill, is worthwhile for
the panoramic views. This 17th-century
castle is home to the Museu Militar(Military
Museum). In between the Spanish Village
and the castle, you might want to stop
at the so-called Olympic Ring or Anella
Olímpica(Anillo Olímpico). This is where
you'll see the famous sports facilities built
for the 1992 games. These include the
55,000-seat Olympic stadium, Estadi
Olímpic, and Palau Sant Jordi, a sports
and concert hall. On the way along Avenida
de l'Estadi towards the cable car, you'll
pass a large white building, Fundació Miró.
This museum is dedicated to well-known
Catalan artist, Joan Miró.
The Gothic Quarter
The medieval Barri Gòtic(Gothic Quarter)
is officially confined to the area between
Avenida de la Catedral, Via Laietana, Calle
Jaume I, Plaça Sant Jaume and Calle
Bisbe. However, there are points of interest
in the streets and squares nearby. Start
your walk in the cathedral square(Plaça
de la Catedral), opposite the Catalan
Gothic cathedral. Take a little alleyway,
Montjüic del Bisbe, along to the peaceful
square, Plaça Sant Felip Neri. Many of
the buildings in this area were built on
the old Roman wall, including the Palau
Episcopal(Episcopal Palace) in Plaça
Nova and 16th-century Casa de l'Ardiaca
off Calle Santa Llúcia. The 14th century
Casa del Degà and Casa de la Canonja
are also located in Plaça de la Seu. From
behind the cathedral, go down Baixada
de Santa Clara to Plaça del Rei. From
here, head for the large Plaça Sant Jaume,
one of the most popular squares in the
city, where popular demonstrations and
gatherings take place. The Catalan regional
government headquarters are located
here in the 14th-century palace Palau de
la Generalitat, alongside the Casa de la
Ciutat(Ajuntament)(Town Hall).
Barcelona is a beautiful and breathtaking
city and you can easily enjoy the sites on
your own; however, professional tours have
a lot to offer. These tours can provide you
with more historical information and can
take you to locations you might not have
known about. If you choose to go on a
guided tour there are a lot of options.
Bus Tours Barcelona Bus Turístic(http://
www.tmb.net/en_US/turistes/busturistic/
busturistic.jsp)
90
Bike Tours Fat Tire Bike
Tours(+34 93 301 3612http://
www.fattirebiketoursbarcelona.com/)
Boat Tours Las Golondrinas(+34 93 442
3106http://www.lasgolondrinas.com/)
Sailing day trip along the Costa Dourada
from Barcelona to Sitges(+34 93 285
3834http://www.euroadventures.net/
ViewProduct.asp?ProductID=1128&AF=51)
Wine Tours Barcelona Tour Guides(http://
barcelonatourguides.com/eng/
winerytour.htm) Cava Winery Tour
from Barcelona(+34 93 285 3834http://
www.euroadventures.net/ViewProduct.asp?
ProductID=1082&AF=51) Parés Baltà(+34
93 890 1399http://www.paresbalta.com/)
Architecture Tours Barcelona Tour
Guides(http://barcelonatourguides.com/eng/
allbarcelonaguidedtour.htm) Contrasts of
Barcelona's Gothic& Modernist(+34 986
22 1399http://www.euroadventures.net/
ViewProduct.asp?ProductID=1165&AF=51)
Gaudi's Barcelona and Panoramic
City Tour(+34 93 285 3834http://
www.euroadventures.net/ViewProduct.asp?
ProductID=1081)
©
Travel Tips
Getting There
By Air
www.easyjet.com/) Lufthansa(+34 93
379 3766/ http://www.lufthansa.com/)
Spanair(+34 902 131 415/ http://
www.spanair.com/) Swiss(+34 901
116 712/ http://www.swiss.com/) TAP
Air Portugal(+351 707 205 700/ http://
www.flytap.com/) Virgin Express(+34 93
226 6671/ http://www.virgin-express.com/)
From the Airport
Bus: Several bus lines leave Barcelona
Airport for Barcelona's city center(mostly
from Terminal B if not indicated otherwise):
The Airbus(A1)(+34 934 156 020/ http://
www.emt-amb.com/) and Line N17(+34 933
187 074/ http://www.emt-amb.com/) takes
passangers from terminals A, B, C, and the
Cargo terminal to the center of Barcelona,
the Plaza de Catalunya. The Airbus leaves
the airport every 7 to 15 minutes from 6a to
1a. bus fare: EUR4. Line N17 buses leave
for the city center every 20 minutes from
10:05a to 5:05a. Departures from Plaza
de Catalunya, from 11p to 5a every 20
minutes.
Directbus(+34 902 109 276/ http://
www.autocarsnadal.com/) leaves the airport
seven times a day between 7:45a and
10:45p for Sants Station, Barcelona.
Line 46 takes passengers to Plaza de
Espana every half hour from 5:30a to
12:45a. A single ticket costs EUR1.30
The Barcelona Airport is located 6.2
miles southwest of the city and has over
32 airlines transporting visitors both
domestically and internationally.
Mon-Bus(+34 938 937 060/ http://
www.monbus.org/) links Barcelona and
several other cities. Buses run every hour
between 7:40a and 11:40p. Check website
for details.
Barcelona International Airport(BCN)+34
932 983 838http://www.barcelonaairport.com
Novatel Autocars takes passangers to
Andorra bus station five times a day Onway ticket: EUR31; return: EUR52.
Aer Lingus(+34 902 502 737/ http://
www.aerlingus.com/) Air Berlin(+34
902 320 737/ http://www.airberlin.com/)
Air Europa(+34 93 298 3328/ http://
www.air-europa.com/) Air France(+ 34
901 112 266/ http://www.airfrance.com/)
British Airways(+34 902 111 333/ http://
www.britishairways.com/) Delta Airlines(+34
934 782 300/ http://www.delta.com/)
EasyJet(+34 902 299 992/ http://
The Ràpid Aeroport(Alsa) leaves the
airport for Figueres, Girona, Lleida, Reus,
Port Aventura and Tarragona several times
a day. Prices range between EUR12-30.
Taxi: Taxi ranks are located in front of
Terminals A, B and C. For fares to various
locations check:+34 932 235 151/ http://
www.taxibarcelona.cat/. Per baggage item
an extra fee of EUR1 is expected.
Train: Renfe Line 10 suburban train(+34
902 240 202) leaves the airport from 6a
to 10:30p every half hour. The ride takes
about 30 minutes and drops passengers off
at Barcelona Sants, among various other
stops. A single ticket costs EUR2.50.
Car Rentals: Traveling by car is generally
a good idea if you are looking to do some
out-of-city sightseeing. The province has
beautiful views to offer, and rental cars are
a sure-fire way to get where you want for
a fixed price. Avis(+34 932 983 600/ http://
www.avis.es/) Europcar(+34 093 7276851/
http://www.europcar.com/) Hertz(+34
932 983 637/ http://www.hertz.es/)
National ATESA(+34 932 983 433/ http://
www.atesa.es/) Sol-Mar(+34 934 788 795/
http://www.solmar.es/)
By Train
Both domestic and international trains come
and go to Barcelona. The main train station
is Estació Sants(+34 902 1575 07), 1.6
miles west of Las Ramblas. Direct overnight
trains also connect from Paris, Geneva,
Lisbon and Milan, as well as services from
various French cities and across Spain. To
find out about short and long distance train
trips, check the Spanish National Railway
Network(RENFE)(http://www.renfe.es/)
website.
By Bus
Buses are a cheaper alternative to trains,
though not so comfortable. Estació del
Nord, the main inter-city bus station, is one
mile northeast of Las Ramblas, close to
Arc de Triomf metro. Check the Barcelona
Local Transport Train, Metro, and Bus
operator(TMB),(http://www.tmb.net/)
for specific information on all ground
transportation.
By Boat
You can get to Barcelona by ferry
via the Balearic Islands(http://
www.balearia.ferries.org/) and Italy. From
the Balearics there are standard boats, on
which you can get beds in cabins of up to
four people and high-speed boats on which
sleepers are not necessary.
Getting Around
91
Public Transport
Barcelona's extensive public transportation
system makes it possible to visit without a
car. The TMB system(local transport, bus,
train, tram and metrohttp://www.tmb.net/)
is the city's major public transportation
source. For train, metro and tram times,
bus schedules, and tourist travel passes,
this site is most helpful in planning that
trip to the museum or movie. The Spanish
National Railway Network(RENFE)(http://
www.renfe.es/) website also contains
information about alternative local train
routes that connect the most visited places
of Barcelona.
©
Fun Facts
1: Fun Fact: On average, everyday, seven
days a week, 150,000 people walk along La
Rambla.
2: FC Barcelona is the biggest privately
owned stadium in the world(seating
100,000 people) and is also one of
Barcelona's most visited tourist attractions.
3: Interesting Fact: Barcelona and Spanish
drivers in general, are some of the worst in
the world. According to recent statistics, an
accident occurs on average, every nineteen
seconds during weekdays between Monday
to Thursday and rises to one accident every
sixteen seconds, on Fridays. It's safer to
walk or take public transport.
4: Weird Fact: When Gaudí was creating
the sculptures of the Nativity Facade on
the Sagrada Familia, he used corpses of
dead babies, only 2-3 days old, in order to
prepare the scene of the soldier and the
innocents. The soldier in the scene has six
toes on one of his feet and this is because
the man who was modelling for Gaudi, also
had six toes.
5: Random Fact: The most walked on
street in Spain, is Portal de L'Angel.
Approximately 3,500 people walk down this
shopping street every hour.
6: Interesting Fact: There are two Spanish
legends concerning the founding of
Barcelona. One legend says that it was
founded by Hercules, 400 years before
the building of Rome. According to the
other legend, the city was founded by the
Carthaginian Hamilcar Barca, father of
Hannibal, in the 3rd century BC and that it
got its name from the great Barca family of
Carthage.
7: Antoni Gaudi was not the first architect
to work on the Sagrada Familia. Architect,
Francesc del Villar, was actually the first
one who was commissioned to design
the church on that site. A year into the
project he resigned and Gaudi took over
and completely revamped the design.
8: Fun Fact: Barcelona is to thank for World
Book Day. La Diada de San Jordi is one of
the biggest, most widely celebrated festival
days in Barcelona which takes place on
April 23rd and is a celebration of love and
literacy.
9: Random Fact: Flamenco is not traditional
or well known in Barcelona or Catalunya.
Catalans prefer rock and roll and the'rock
catala' scene has become famous during
the last 20 years.
10: Weird Fact: When Gaudí graduated
in 1878 from Barcelona's School of
Architecture, the director said:"Gentlemen,
we are here today in the presence of either
a genius or a madman."
11: It is said that Catalans are not very
generous and they are always counting
money, so much so, that their traditional
dance, Sardana, also involves counting the
steps.
12: Fun Fact: If'spanglish' is the mix of
english and spanish,'catanyol' is the mix
of catalan and spanish and is often widely
used in Barcelona.
© NileGuide
92
Pompeii Snapshot
Local Info
Introduction
Attractions
27km(17 miles) SE of Naples
In recent decades, the city of Pompeii
was very depressed-- run-down by
cheap sprawl, slums, and the resultant
petty crime. The town has experienced
successful urban renewal, however, and
visitors now can enjoy its other attractions.
The Santuario della Madonna del
Rosario, Piazza Bartolo Longo 1(tel.
081-8577111; www.santuario.it; MonSat 6:15am-7:30pm; Sun and holidays
5:45am-8:30pm), is one of Italy's major
religious centers dedicated to the Madonna,
and a pilgrimage destination for Catholics
worldwide. Built in the 19th century, the
richly decorated sanctuary is well worth a
visit. The attached buildings house a school
and the offices of a number of important
charities.
Pompeii is Italy's most famous
archaeological site and with good
reason: With an excavated area of 44
hectares(almost 109 acres), Pompeii is
unique in the world. No other ancient town
has been brought to light so completely.
Discovered by chance during excavations
for a canal in the 16th century, the ruins of
Pompeii were not recognized for what they
were until further explorations in the 18th
century. Scientific excavations started only
at the end of the 19th century, but continued
steadily until most of the ancient town was
uncovered and are still ongoing today.
Based on calculation of the city walls-- only
partly excavated-- Pompeii covered an area
of 66 hectares(163 acres). Originally an
Etruscan and then a Sannite town, it was
colonized by the Romans in 80 B.C. At the
time of the eruption, experts estimate the
town counted about 35,000 inhabitants.
© 2000-2010 by Wiley Publishing, Inc.
Hotel Insights
Hotels
We used to recommend that visitors not
stay in Pompeii overnight. The town has
notably improved, though, and quite a few
nice hotels are convenient to the ruins. You
should still be careful, though, and avoid
night strolls along deserted streets, as in
any urban area.
Restaurants
Most establishments in Pompeii are tourist
joints catering to large groups of visitors
from around the world. The following
restaurants have their share of tourist
groups but are also favored by locals for
their high-quality food.
The archaeological area is, of course, the
main attraction in Pompeii. Come prepared
as the site is huge and a visit here is quite
demanding in both time and energy. Bring
comfortable shoes, a hat, sunscreen,
and plenty of water. We also recommend
taking a guided tour or, at least, purchasing
the official guidebook, complete with
itineraries and photographs, for sale at
the bookstore located just beyond the
ticket booth. Guidebooks are available
in various languages, including English.
The Ufficio Scavi(tel. 081-8575347;
www.pompeiisites.org) offers thematic
guided tours that are fascinating; they each
focus on one aspect of the town's life, and
some of them are seasonal-- such as the
Vendemmia(Grape Harvest), where you
can visit the vineyards that produce an
excellent red wine(theVilla dei Misteri label),
using the techniques of 2,000 years ago.
You can reserve these and other guided
tours at tel. 081-8616405, or online at
www.arethusa.net.
The archaeological area of Pompeii is a
participant in the Artecard program.
Treading Lightly on Mt. Vesuvius
Stand at the bottom of the great marketplace of Pompeii, and look up at the silent
streets. .. over the broken houses with their
inmost sanctuaries open to the day, away
to Mount Vesuvius, bright and snowy in
the peaceful distance; and lose all count
of time, and heed of other things, in the
strange and melancholy sensation of
seeing the Destroyed and the Destroyer
making this quiet picture in the sun.
-- Charles Dickens,Pictures from Italy
A volcano that has struck terror in
Campania, the towering, pitch-black Mt.
Vesuvius looms menacingly over the
Bay of Naples. August 24, A.D. 79, is the
infamous date when Vesuvius burst forth
and buried Pompeii, Herculaneum, and
Stabiae under ash and volcanic mud.
Vesuvius has erupted periodically ever
since(thousands were killed in 1631): The
last major spouting of lava occurred in the
20th century(it blew off the ring of its crater
in 1906). The last spectacular eruption
was on March 31, 1944. The approach
to Vesuvius is dramatic, with the terrain
growing foreboding as you near the top.
Along the way you'll see villas rising on its
slopes, and vineyards-- the grapes produce
an amber-colored wine known as Lacrimae
Christi(Tears of Christ); the citizens of
ancient Pompeii enjoyed wine from here, as
excavations have revealed. Closer to the
summit, the soil becomes puce-colored and
an occasional wildflower appears.
It might sound like a dubious
invitation(Vesuvius, after all, is an active
volcano), but it's possible to visit the rim of
the crater's mouth. As you look down into
its smoldering core, you might recall that
Spartacus, a century before the eruption
that buried Pompeii, hid in the hollow of the
crater, which was then covered with vines.
The Parco Nazionale del Vusuvio
contains an Observatory(tel. 081-6108483)
at 608m(1,994 ft.). It's the oldest in
the world, dating from 1841. Charging
4.50€($5.85/£3) for admission, the park is
open daily from 9am until sunset.
To reach Vesuvius from Naples, take the
Circumvesuviana Railway or(summer
only) bus service from Piazza Vittoria,
which hooks up with bus connections
at Pugliano. You get off the train at the
Ercolano station, the 10th stop. Some bus
93
Pompeii Snapshot continued
or van will generally be on hand to take you
from Herculaneum to the top. Negotiate
the price before getting in, however. Once
at the top, you must be accompanied
by a guide, which will cost 6€($7.80/£4).
Assorted willing tour guides are found in the
bus parking lot; they are available from 9am
to about 4pm. For details, contact Guide
Vulcanologiche(tel. 081-7775720).
Travel Tips
Planning a Trip
Getting There-- You can easily get to
Pompeii by public transportation using
the Circumvesuviana railway(tel.
800-053939; www.vesuviana.it),
which leaves from Naples's Stazione
Circumvesuviana, Corso Garibaldi, off
Piazza Garibaldi(Metro: Garibaldi). On the
Sorrento line, get off at Pompeii Villa dei
Misteri, only a few yards from the Porta
Marina entrance to the archaeological area.
If you take the Poggiomarino line, get off
at Pompeii Santuario, in the center of
Pompeii, only steps from the sanctuary and
a couple hundred yards from the Piazza
Anfiteatro entrance to the archaeological
area. Trains leave every half-hour, and the
45-minute ride costs 2.50€($3.50/£1.75).
By car, take the autostrada A3 and exit at
POMPEI OVEST or POMPEI EST. Follow
the brown signs for POMPEI SCAVI.
94
Nice Snapshot
Local Info
Nice is said to be the weakest adjective
in the English language. And we're sure
the French hate it when Americans
invariably say that Nice is"nice". Sure,
it's true, but Nice – the fifth largest city in
France – is so much more than just nice.
Nice(say it like"niece," please) located on
the French Riviera is the ideal place for
romantic tropical beach vacations, lively
carnivals, culture and art appreciation
as well as historical and archaeological
finds. Urban energy combined with a
laid back atmosphere amidst a backdrop
of pebbled beaches, light blue sea, art
galleries and historic plazas make Nice
every vacationer's dream.
Sights
Join the locals for a stroll or simply sit
back and take in the view from one of the
blue lounge chairs on the Promenade
des Anglais by the Baie de Anges. For
a prime view of the city, visit the ruins of
the Colline du Chateau. Art and culture
lovers will certainly love exploring the
different museums in the city(and the fact
that entrance is usually free). Visit the
Museum of Asian Art, Musee Matisse and
the Museum of Modern and Contemporary
Art. Archaeology fans will also find the
Musee et Site Archeologiques de Cimiez
quite an exciting find. Enjoy the concerts or
festivals at Place Massena just two minutes
from the Promenade des Anglais. Don't
forget to take pictures of Vieux Nice or
the Old Town with its quaint houses and
shops. In the heart of the Old Town is Place
Rossetti, famous for its landmark fountain,
and the exquisitely designed Cathedrale
Sainte-Reparate. Try strolling around the
neighborhood at night when the lighting
makes your walk a mystical experience.
Food and Drinks
No one should leave Nice without sampling
the most delicious ice cream from the best
ice-cream makers in the Place Rosetti. You
can also try traditional Nicoise cuisine like
socca, pan bagnat and salad nicoise from
the many restaurants in the Old Nice and
the Cours Saleya. For more Nicoise food
as well as foreign selections, head to the
cafes along the Zone Piettone, a street that
runs parallel to the Promenade de Anglais
starting at the Place Massena. To make the
most of the perfect Nicoise evenings, there
are many pubs and bars in the Old Town
where you can party the night away.
Shopping
Av. Jean Medecin is Nice's central shopping
street. Galleries Lafayette is also worth
checking out for affordable fashions. Cours
Saleya is home to a flower market while the
Nice Etoiles is the city's largest shopping
mall, featuring many famous retail outlets.
© NileGuide
History
People have inhabited Nice since
prehistoric times, but a clear, detailed
picture of its past only emerges from
antiquity onwards. After centuries of
merchant activity marked by occasional
invasion, Nice gradually developed through
the 18th and 19th Centuries to take the
shape we know today as a major tourist
destination.
People have lived on the geographical site
for 400,000 years, the history of which is
chronicled at the Terra Amata museum.
Primitive settlers, the very first inhabitants
of Nice, established themselves at the
base of Mont-Boron, in a cave known as
the Grotte du Lazaret, where they lived
among ibex, stags, oxen and elephants,
and carved weapons out of the limestone
rock.
Several thousand years elapsed in peaceful
evolution, until Nice eventually gained its
name in the 4th Century BCE when the
Massaliotes won a memorable victory over
the Barbarians. These victorious Greeks
hailing from present day Marseille(200
kilometers/124 miles from Nice) named the
colonyNikaïa, which literally means"giver of
victory." Being the closest port of call from
the island of Cyrnos(present-day Corsica),
it became a Massaliote beachhead as
well as an important commercial trading
post. The beginnings of the new town were
established not at the foot of Mont-Boron,
as in prehistoric times, but on the slopes of
the Château hill.
At this time, Nice was a small stronghold
which protected the port using natural
defenses—the Colline du Château. The few
hundred inhabitants were mainly merchants
under the authority of magistrates
nominated by Marseille.
Roman occupation of Nice can be traced
back to 14 BCE, the start of the Roman
Empire. At this time the Romans effectively
built a second town, Cemenelum, on
Cimiez hill. Once it had become the county
seat for the Alpes-Maritimes military
government, Cimiez quickly became a
strategic center. The lower parts of the
town, close to the port and climbing the
Château hillside, lived in the shadow of
Cimiez for the next few centuries.
In the 6th Century, Nikaïa gained the upper
hand over Cemenelum, which disappeared
with the fall of the Roman Empire. Nikaïa
became part of the French empire, and
earned a place of importance through its
successful maritime commerce.
While almost no traces of the Massaliotes
remain, the Romans left many historic
relics. Via Julia Augusta, linking Nice to
Vinitmille(37 kilometers/22 miles away) is
just one, and you can admire the Trophée
d'Auguste – a magnificent construction with
four well-preserved columns, which offers
a great panorama at Turbie. It symbolizes
the submission of the Alpine people to
Roman rule, representing the first stage
of conquests in the valleys. Emperor
Augustus can also be credited with setting
up the region's first real administrative
organization. Finally, the most manifest
remains of the Roman presence in Nice are
the well-preserved Roman amphitheaters
and baths which you can visit around the
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Nice Snapshot continued
site of Cimiez Archeological Museum, on
the hill.
In 813 the town was sacked by the
Sarrasins, who managed to conquer the
whole of eastern Provence on the Côte des
Maures. It was only in 972 that Guillaume,
the Compte de Provence, managed to rout
them. The commercial activity of the lower
town intensified and in 1176 the first town
charter was drawn up.
With the death of Queen Jeanne de
Provence in 1382, civil war broke out at a
time when Nice was the third biggest town
in Provence, after Arles and Marseilles.
Six years later, the people of Nice chose
to place themselves under the protection
of the Compte de Savoie, Amédée VII,
in what was called the"inedict" of 1388.
Nice became a strategic stronghold for
the Savoy Counts, and the town was
instrumental in assisting their defense
against the French and their allies.
In 1543 the Turkish fleet tried in vain to
conquer the city. Local washerwoman
turned symbolic figure Catherine Ségurane,
instigated a particularly unusual form of
defense. Legend has it that she lashed
out with a carpet beater to send them
running...while showing them her behind!
The 17th Century witnessed the flourishing
of baroque art in Nice. Façades were
painted in warm reds and yellows, ochre
and burnt sienna; doorways and window
sills were given contrasting colors and
woodwork was painted in cold blues and
greens. The restoration of the façades over
the last few decades has returned Nice
to its former baroque glory. Other striking
examples of this artistic tradition are the
churches of the old town like Cathédrale
Sainte-Réparate.
At the end of the 17th Century, in 1691 and
1705, the French army twice destroyed
Nice's defenses and the castle was razed
to the ground. In 1713, the town again
retreated to the protection of the Duke
of Savoy, who had also become King of
Sardinia.
Between the French Revolution and the
Empire(1792-1814), the Alpes-Maritimes
region was created and annexed to France.
By the same token, Nice was also returned
to the French, but this time with the assent
of the people.
With the fall of Napoleon, Nice again
came under the sway of Sardinia, but the
language and culture distanced it further
and further from Italy. On March 24, 1860,
Napoleon III and Victor-Emmanuel II,
King of Sardinia, agreed that Nice would
be handed over to France once and for
all, a decision that met with universal
approval from the inhabitants. A remarkable
economic boom ensued; roads were built,
the railway arrived, and the population
underwent explosive growth.
At the same time, winter tourism, which had
started to develop in the mid 1700s with the
arrival of the British aristocracy, gathered
in popularity. In 1827 the town received
some 600 winter vacationers, coming from
all over Europe to enjoy the gentle climate.
The latter part of the 19th Century and
the years leading up to World War I were
something of a heyday, to which the prolific
and luxuriousbelle époque residences
attest. Nice was the winter playground of
the rich and famous, but with the aftermath
of the Second World War, mass tourism
grew and the trend was reversed: the resort
town became, and still is, a summer holiday
spot for sun-seekers who come to relax on
the beaches. Today tourism is a vital and
fundamental part of the local economy, a
fact borne out by the airport—the second
largest in France—and the vast array of
hotels.
©
Hotel Insights
Nice is a major tourist destination all
year round, and has a remarkably
comprehensive selection of hotels, catering
to all tastes and budgets.
Sea Front
Fans ofbelle époque architecture should
head straight for Nice's most famous
hotel, the impressive and aged Négresco,
which occupies a place of pride on the
city's magnificent seaside walkway, the
Promenade des Anglais. It is among the
most expensive hotels in the city, and
with good reason: every room offers
a panoramic sea view. Its beautiful
architectural style is a constant source
of inspiration for photographers, and the
white façade, crowned with pink domes
that look out on the sea, is featured on
many a postcard. This gem of a hotel also
harbors many treasures inside with rare
antique furnishings and exquisite works
of art. The Elysée Palace also captivates
the hearts of art lovers. The building spans
over two blocks, between which a feminine
statue seems to glide—a construction of
monumental proportions(26 meters or 85
feet tall) that is the work of sculptor Sacha
Sosso, a leading figure in the Nice School
of Art.
Other lovely hotels lining the Promenade
include the Westminster, the West-End,
the Beau Rivage, and two of the Mercure
hotels, the Mercure Promenade des
Anglais, and the Mercure Nice Marché aux
Fleurs. For those with more modern tastes,
the stylish comfort, central location and sea
view of the Méridien is an ideal choice, with
the added bonus of the Ruhl Casino on the
ground floor. The Radisson hotel is another
luxury option, closer to the airport. One last
option in this area is the lovely La Pérouse
just by the Cours Saleya, a lively pedestrian
area full of markets and café terraces.
Mont Boron
The four-star Palais Maeterlinck offers
similar standards of excellence, situated
further away from the commotion of the
city near the pretty village of Villefranche.
Overlooking the sea, and with a delightful
swimming pool, it has a wonderful
atmosphere. The hotel's restaurant, Le
Mélisande serves some of the very finest
French cuisine.
Masséna – Town Center
The Grand Hotel Aston, overlooking the
gardens of Place Masséna, is an utterly
charming hotel offering an atmosphere
of simplicity. Also, centrally located large
hotel chains include the Holiday Inn on Rue
Victor Hugo, and the Mercure Centre NotreDame.
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The area around the train station also has
a large number of hotels. The large hotel,
Ibis, with 199 rooms, represents good value
for money. This area is also home to some
of the more inexpensive accommodation in
the city.
In the lower price bracket but more centrally
located, the following two and three star
hotels are well-maintained and good
values. The beautiful ochre-colored facade
of the Paradis Hotel can be found in
the pedestrianized precinct. The comfy
rooms are very welcoming and some even
come with a balcony. Small in size, the
Hotel Normandie is both a friendly and
comfortable place to stay.
The Port
Hotel Apogia is a three star accommodation
option close to the peaceful port area.
Arénas/Californie
The Mercure Nice Californie, a little way
out of the center, is a nice hotel in the
Arénas/Californie district. The décor is
fairly standard, but you can't fault them for
comfort, service, and reliability.
West Nice
For travelers with business needs, there
is the Kyriad St-Isidore and the Novotel
Nice Centre. The Kyriad Saint Isidore is
situated near the airport and highways, and
the prices are extremely reasonable.
Promenade du Paillon
The rates are a little higher at the Novotel
Nice Centre, which is located between the
Palais des Expositions and the Acropolis
conference center, and is easily accessible
to highways and the airport.
©
Just about everyone has heard of Nice's
most famous culinary export, thesalade
niçoise. It's made of fresh tomatoes, mixed
greens, anchovies, tuna, beans and olive
oil... but it is only the tip of the iceberg
of the city's delectable specialties. Local
cuisine draws from the mild Mediterranean
climate, resulting in a light style of
cooking based on fresh fish and seasonal
vegetables. In addition to regional dining
options, Nice boasts a dizzying number
of restaurants serving traditional French
gastronomy, seafood specialties, as well as
international cuisine. If you need to quench
your thirst, choose one of the welcoming
taverns in the old town or a delightful sundrenched café terrace... and don't forget the
ice cream parlors!
North Nice
A visit to the French Riviera really wouldn't
be complete without samplingla socca—
a delicious savory pancake made from
chick peas. Other distinctive regional dishes
includeles petits farcis(stuffed vegetable
parcels),morue à la niçoise(cod cooked
with tomato and olives),pissaladière(which
resembles a pizza made with onion
rather than tomato),fleurs de courgette
cuisinées(cooked baby zucchini),raviolis
andpan-bagnat, Nice's twist on the
sandwich using two round slices of
bread soaked in olive oil enveloping a
miniaturesalade niçoise. You can discover
the flavors for yourself at Chez Simon and
Au Rendez-vous des Amis, both of which
have great views overlooking the city.
Vieux-Nice(Old Town)
If you're hankering for a cold one, the old
town(Vieux-Nice) is positively overflowing
with cozy, welcoming pubs like De Klomp
or Master Home. The sweeping terraces at
Brasserie L'F and Civette du Cours, both
located in Cours Saleya, are also extremely
popular. Famous for theTheatre en Niçois(a
show performed in the local dialect), the
Bar des Oiseaux will captivate you with its
vibrant local color. Last but not least, Nice's
dedicated gourmet cannot go without the
flavors of Fenocchio, arguably the best
ice cream parlor in town. With an endless
selection of flavors, it is set amid one of
the old town's charming squares, Place
Rossetti, where the beautiful Cathédrale
Sainte-Réparate stands.
For simple yet delicious dining, check
out Chez René. Restaurants specializing
in regional cuisine are tucked into
neighborhoods throughout the city. Try Don
Camillo or Petite Maison. All are centrally
located and serve excellent French dishesà
la carte and via set menus, in pleasant
and contemporary settings. Slightly off the
beaten path, the beautiful vaulted cellar of
Baud et Millet offers cheese-based dishes
accompanied by fine wines. For the best
offruits de la mer(seafood), the Grand
Café de Turin is in a class of its own. Nice
also has many options for those seeking
international flavors. To sample the flavors
of neighboring Italy, try Bistro Romain. For
Lebanese, try the always-satisfying Byblos.
The Port
For a great meal in this area, try Pipo
Socca. For international flavors, try Zucca
Magica for flavorful vegetarian cuisine, or
seek out fine dining at Allégro.
Masséna-Town Center
Fans of traditional French cuisine have
many dining options in Nice. Restaurants
of note include L'Horloge, and Epicuriens.
If you're a fan of fresh, unpretentious
fish dishes, you should book a table at
Boccaccio. For tasty Italian in this area, try
Québec, which serves wonderful pizzas
and pasta that are perfectlyal dente.
For flavors of Alsace, try the Taverne
Alsacienne, or sample the cuisine of
the Indian Ocean at Barachois. Casbah
carries patrons to Morocco, the Petite
Sirène to Denmark, Raja to India, and the
Transsibérien serves the cooking of Russia!
Sea Front
For the finest and fanciest dining, there
are two restaurants in town that stand out
above all others. The prestigious reputation
of the Chantecler befits the palatial hotel
where it is located, Hôtel Négresco. The
service, the ambiance, and the cuisine are
all of the highest caliber.
Mont-Boron
Nice's other grand hotel, the Maeterlinck,
boasts a similarly exceptional restaurant,
the Mélisande, which overlooks the sea.
The menus in both establishments are
regularly updated with fresh seasonal
fare, serving dishes like lamb cutlet with
mozzarella and aubergine, fillet of sole
97
andfoie gras with fresh pasta. For seafood,
try Coco Beach, which is located just below
Mont-Boron Park near the Cape of Nice.
©
Nightlife Insights
Nice's trademark symbols are of course its
Carnaval and the sea, with all the activities
that come along with it. But there are a
thousand other ways to amuse yourself in
Nice, whatever the season. Try shopping
in the local markets. The region's warm
climate means outdoor markets stay open
year-round, and the local color provided
by the men and women of Nice adds a
certainje ne sais quoi for tourists. You can
also go clubbing in the evening, pop into
a local pub, take in a movie, or visit one
of the many museums and art galleries.
Cultural heritage and a wide range of
artistic enterprise occupy a very important
place in the town. The outskirts of the city
are also wonderful places to explore by
foot, bike or car, especially the surrounding
hills or a trip over to Corisca.
port is sure to enrapture any antiques
enthusiast, especially stores such as Ginac.
Satisfy your architectural appetite at the
Palais Lascaris and the Cathédrale Sainte
Réparate, masterpieces of the Italianinfluenced baroque style.
Shopping
As far as shopping is concerned, there
are two main streets to check out, Rue
Masséna and Avenue Jean Médecin,
both in the town center. Rue Masséna is
Nice's major pedestrianized district, in and
around which cluster pretty little boutiques
of every variety: find leather goods at
Longchamp or stylish clothing at Kenzo,
Sonia Rykiel, and Façonnable. Avenue
Jean Médecin is located nearby, and you'll
find that fashion takes center stage here
as well; one of the most popular shops is
Zara. Department stores and shopping
arcades, including Galeries Lafayette and
Nice Etoile, are also in the vicinity. Finally,
for dedicated shoppers, the enormous Cap
3000 shopping center is worth the journey
out to the suburbs near the airport.
Carnival
Markets
If you find yourself in Nice during February,
you can't afford to miss the Carnaval – one
of the most famous after Rio and Venice.
Let yourself be swept along in the joyous
procession of weird and wonderful floats,
brass bands and clowns tottering on stilts.
Carnaval also brings delightful displays of
blooming mimosas and carnations along
the magnificent seaside walkway, the
Promenade des Anglais.
But the markets are truly the most charming
sight in Nice. All week long, at almost
any hour of the day, Cours Saleya(a little
pedestrian friendly area between the old
town and the sea) is brought to life by
the inimitable Saleya fruit and vegetable
market, as well as the flower, arts and crafts
and flea markets. Go to whichever market
tempts you the most, and stroll in the shade
of the colorful awnings. Then take a break
in one of the café terraces, sip a cool drink
and soak up the wonderful Mediterranean
atmosphere.
Museums& Antiques
Visitors interested in cultural attractions
certainly won't be disappointed either.
Nice boasts a huge number of museums
including the Matisse Museum, dedicated
to the works of the great artist; the Terra
Amata, preserving Nice's prehistoric past;
and the Fine Arts Museum(Beaux-Arts).
Nice also has countless art galleries—
enough to captivate art lovers of every
style--many of which are nestled in the
charming and picturesque streets of VieuxNice. You might like to look out for Sylvie
T or Espace Loas. The area around the
Outdoor Activities
With the first rays of summer, you can
enjoy the pleasures of the seashore. Nice's
beaches are pebbly rather than sandy
though, so those who like their comfort
will do well to hire a sunbed on the private
beaches, such as Castel Plage or Opéra
Plage. Most of the private beaches also
offer a wide range of water sports including
jet and water skiing. Sailing and deep sea
diving excursions are available from the
kiosks at the port, between the Quai des
Docks and the Quai Ile de Beauté. Don't
miss out on the boat trips that take you
on a seafaring discovery of this beautiful
coastline—various sailing companies can
take you out to sea while glass-bottomed
boats reveal the underwater world and all
its wildlife.
Nightlife
When night falls, celebrate Nice's diverse
nightlife by heading for one of Nice's best
destinations like La Palousa or Master
Home, two of the many pubs in the old
town.
Cinema
Film fanatics will revel in the tiny Mercury
cinema, which shows films in their original
language, as well as the Cinémathèque.
The Village Cinema Lingostiere, found
in the West Nice district, offers modern
comfort and the latest technology in moviegoing.
Music
Music lovers should prick up their ears as
every year the town stages some fantastic
music festivals including a Jazz Festival
and Religious Music Festival. Nice also has
a splendid and very active Opera House.
Excursions& Side Trips
Finally, it would be a great shame not
to mention the areas surrounding Nice,
where you can take advantage of the
many excursions available. Explore MontBoron hill and the Fort du Mont-Alban,
just a few kilometers below the port where
you'll discover wonderful Mediterranean
wildlife and a truly stunning view. The train
des Pignes makes for a great day out,
especially if you get off at the pretty little
village of Annot perched on the hill. It's the
ideal place for a few hours of walking.
Although it's possible to visit Corsica in a
day, it's well worth it to stay a while longer.
The Ile de Beauté is some 200km from the
coast of Nice and can be reached via the
NGV(Navire Grande Vitesse or high speed
shuttle) or on Corsica Ferries. In winter,
you can practice your skiing at Auron, and
all within a 50km radius, towns such as
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Villefranche-sur-mer, Eze, Vence, SaintPaul, Peille with their picturesque village
settings, and the ever prestigious Cannes
and Monaco, are your playground.
©
The Promenade des Anglais& the
Colline du Château
Given that these two sites appear
prolifically on postcards of Nice, it's
certainly worth your while to see the real
thing. The Promenade des Anglais follows
the shoreline for several kilometers and
the vast hillside parkland of the Colline
du Château(Castle Hill) overlooks the
magnificent Baie des Anges. It'll only take
half an hour or so to complete the route,
although there are many distractions that
could extend it into a leisurely stroll, such
as a stop on the beach or a break in the
shade of pine trees.
Starting from the Albert I Gardens, cross
the road towards the shore and you'll find
yourself on the famous Promenade des
Anglais. The wide walkway is a favorite
place to stroll, ride bikes or roller-blade;
down below, the pebbled beaches(both
public and private) are great for sunbathing
and swimming. Keep heading in the
direction of the green hill—the Colline du
Château. If you look hard enough, you may
be able to make out the fountain on the
hillside, which is lit up at night. Continue on
until you reach the Rauba Capeu human
sundial at the foot of hotels La Pérouse
and Suisse. Follow the pavement on your
left for around 50 meters, leading you to
the bottom of the stairway to the Colline du
Château itself. You can always pay to take
the lift a little further on, but if you climb the
steps you can explore the Bellanda Tower
and its little Maritime Museum. The park on
the hill exhibits many fine examples of local
flora, and you can take in all the different
views over the town – the Baie des Anges,
the crowds of red-tiled rooftops in the old
town, the port and Mont-Boron. Kids will
relish the chance to go tobogganing and
play in the park. Don't look for the Château
though...it was destroyed in the reign of
Louise XIV. The only ruins are those of a
medieval cathedral.
At the end of this tour, treat yourself to
an upscale dinner at Le Chantecler. This
restaurant is located in the ultra-luxurious
Hôtel Négresco and was awarded two
stars by the Michelin guide. This is truly a
gastronomical experience not to be missed.
Saint Réparate Cathedral
Discover the most picturesque part of Nice
by taking a walk through the old town. The
intertwining web of narrow little streets,
colorful old houses and little boutiques
reveal the charming soul of the city.
Approach old Nice from Place Garibaldi,
passing by the Grand Café de Turin,
renowned for it excellent seafood. Take Rue
Pairolière into the heart of the old town.
This long, narrow street, lined with lots of
little shops, is incredibly lively during the
day and perfect for a little detour to buy
some traditional products from Nice and
Provence(olives, herbs, etc.), or to sample
local specialties likefarcis(vegetable parcels
stuffed with meat) orsocca(a pancake made
from chickpea flour). The street opens out
into Place Saint-François, the square where
the fish market is held.
Leaving Place Saint Francois behind, take
Rue Droite and look for the entrance to
the Palais Lascaris on your right. A visit to
this large Genoese mansion house, former
residence of the Lascaris dynasty, uncovers
the glory of the baroque movement,
of which Vieux-Nice offers many fine
examples. On leaving the palace, continue
along Rue Droite until intersected by a large
steep road—Rue Rossetti—which will take
you down to the square of the same name,
where the 17th century Cathédrale SainteRéparate stands tall. You can also savor
the delicious ice cream at the renowned
Fenocchio, or relax in one of the many café
terraces. By taking a right at the cathedral
down the little side street, Rue Gallo, you
will find the false door, behind which is a
vaulted passageway and staircase that
looks out onto Boulevard Jean Jaurès.
Turn left and continue down Rue du Marché
where you can buy souvenirs and pottery.
The street ends in the pretty Place du
Palais-de-Justice. Don't cross the square
but take an immediate left into Rue de la
Préfecture and on to some of the old town's
most welcoming pubs and beautiful signs
and photographs of Martinetti. Keep going
as far as the intersection on your right and
go down Rue de la Poissonnerie, where
you will chance upon the charming and
unassuming little church of Sainte-Rita –
the patron saint of lost causes. At the end
of the street, the famous Cours Saleya
beckons, loved by the locals for its sunkissed café terraces and lively, colorful fruit
and vegetable market. On Mondays you
can visit the flea market, but any day of the
week you can enjoy strolling around the
bustling stalls. Right at the end you'll be
able to see, and smell, the blooms at the
flower market. While you're near the Cours
Saleya, stop in Atmosphère(L') for a bite.
This lovely little restaurant serves delicious
duck as well as impressive seafood dishes,
and the servers are friendly and efficient.
The Franciscan monastery
An attractive hill in the very heart of Nice,
just north of the old town and bordering the
east of the city center, Cimiez is a stylish
residential district, that is both stately and
calm. Many of the houses exude the charm
of thebelle époque and are complemented
by little gardens. The district is home to an
ancient archaeological site and museum,
concealed in the delightful park where you
can also find the Matisse Museum and
the Franciscan monastery. The Chagall
Museum is nestled at the foot of the hill.
Bus numbers 15, 17 and 22 will drop you
off at Cimiez's Roman amphitheaters
which are right in the middle of the vast
parkland. Although the big park tends to
be overrun by bicycles, roller-bladers and
soccer players on Wednesday afternoons
and weekends, it is a haven of peace and
quiet during the week. It has a wonderful
olive grove and beautiful pathways that will
inspire an exploratory stroll.
Ancient culture enthusiasts may also be
interested in the Archaeological Museum,
where you can see collections dating from
the bronze age up to the beginning of the
99
Middle Ages. All around the museum,
paved alleyways, Roman amphitheaters
and thermal baths from the 3rd to 5th
centuries are open to explorers.
The hillside park also shelters the Matisse
Museum. Within a Genoese villa, the
painter's work from the beginning of his
career to the end of his days is displayed
alongside some of his personal belongings.
Cross the park until you reach the
Franciscan monastery, bordered by a
magnificent Italian garden. This spiritual
center, dating from the 17th century,
presents an array of murals and works
of art that trace Franciscan life from the
13th to the 18th centuries. The adjoining
cemetery is the final resting place of the two
masters of color, Henri Matisse and Raoul
Dufy, whose tombstones can be visited.
Heading back towards the city center(take
bus number 15 from the monastery
square), stop off at the Marc Chagall
Biblical Message Museum. Designed by
architect André Hermant, the building is
both sober and modern in appeal, set
amid olive, holm oak and cypress trees.
The museum contains over 600 works
of a biblical theme, as well as enormous
canvasses, mosaics, sculptures, tapestries
and superb glass works.
If you've worked up an appetite, don't
pass up Auberge de Théo. This little
restaurant serves local specialties as well
as traditional Italian dishes. The homemade
pastas are delicious as are the pizzas,
and the meal won't be complete without a
serving of their heavenlytiramisu.
Guided Tours
Bike Tour
Nice Cycle Tours(+ 33 6 19 99 95 22/ http://
www.nicecycletours.com/)
Bus/Minibus Tour
Nice Le Grand Tour(+33 8 70 40 73
20/ http://www.city-discovery.com/nice/
tour.php?id=1177)
Nice City Sightseeing Small Group
Tour(http://www.viator.com/tours/Nice/
Nice-City-Sightseeing-Small-Group-Tour/
d478-2356NCE08)
SAS(+0825 325 335/ http://
www.scandinavian.net/)
An Art Tour of Nice
Sky Europe(+421 2 4850 1111/ http://
www1.skyeurope.com/)
Art Tour from Nice(+33 8 70 40 73 20/
http://www.city-discovery.com/nice/
tour.php?id=4296)
©
Travel Tips
Getting There
Air
The Nice-Côte d'Azur Airport(NCE)(+33
4898 8828/ http://www.nice.aeroport.fr/)
provides some of the world's most beautiful
take-offs and landings. Expanding out on
a peninsula like a beached sunbather,
some four miles outside of Nice proper, the
dual terminal airport butts up against the
Mediterranean Sea, with flights shooting
out over the waters offering views of the
Alps, the jaw dropping cliffs between
Nice and Monaco and the beaches along
the Riviera. The airport has numerous
amenities like shops, restaurants and bars,
massage-while-you-wait services(+33
6 8833 6697), a business center(+34
9321 3073), vaccination center, currency
exchange stations, info desks, and ATMs.
Airlines include:
Air France(+1 800 237 2747+0820 820 820/
http://www.airfrance.com/)
Air Transat(+877 872 6728/ http://
www.airtransat.com/)
British Airways(+0825 825 400/ http://
www.britishairways.com/)
Delta(+0800 354 080/ http://www.deltaair.com/)
Easy Jet(+871 244 2366/ http://
www.easyjet.com/)
Germanwings(+44 870 252 12 50/ http://
www1.germanwings.com/)
Jet 2(+44 207 1700737/ http://
www.jet2.com/)
KLM(+0890 710 710/ http://www.klm.com/)
Lufthansa(+0820 20 2030/ http://
cms.lufthansa.com/)
My Travel(+870 238 7710/ http://
www.mytravel.com/)
Virgin Express(+0821 2230 202/ http://
www.virgin-express.com/)
From the Airport
Car Rentals: Driving into Nice from the
airport is a simple matter of finding your
way through a couple of roundabouts to
the famed Promenade des Anglais. For a
less dramatic entrance opt for the N7. Car
Rentals at the airport include
ADA(+0825 169 169(France)/ http://
www.ada.fr/)
Avis(+0820 050 505/ http://www.avis.com/)
Budget(+0825 003 564/ http://
www.budget.com/)
Europcar(+0825 352 352/ http://
www.europcar.fr/)
Hertz(+0825 361 361/ http://
www.hertz.com/)
Sixt(+33 01 44 38 5555/ http://www.esixt.com/)
Citer/National(+33 01 44 38 6161/ http://
www.citer.com/)
Taxi: Taxis line up outside each terminal.
Trips into Nice are relatively quick and once
all the surcharges add up the fare will set
you back about EUR25.
Bus: Various bus companies combine to
offer 23 routes connecting the airport with
more than 100 destinations between Genoa
in the east and Marseille and Avignon in the
west and Valle d'Allos and Auron up north
in the Alps. Buses depart from the airport to
Nice every 10 minutes from 6a-10p.
Train: The Nice St Agustin train station
lies just north of terminal one, but is still
a good 15-20 minute hike on foot, which
is troublesome with a load of baggage.
Plus, service at the station varies widely
so waiting for a train could be inconvenient
depending on when you touch down.
Other alternatives include taking one of
the frequent buses that go to Gare Nice
Ville(the central train station) where the rail
choices open up considerably.
100
Helicopter& Ferry: Alternatives for the
jet-setters include helicopter transport
to just about any place in the region,
although Monaco and St. Tropez get
the most attention, with flights leaving
about every 20 minutes. Also, during the
summer Air France(+0820 820 820/ http://
www.airfrance.com/) has a speedy water
ferry that shuttles passengers to and from
St Tropez. The journey lasts two hours and
fares start at EUR59.
Bus
Eurolines(http://www.eurolines.com/) has
a limited number of routes between Nice
and other European cities. Most buses pull
into the Gare Routire station in the town
center. A fleet of local bus companies serve
the region with frequent jaunts from Nice to
Genoa, Cannes, Antibes, Marseille, and St
Tropez.
Car
The A8 toll expressway rushes along the
northern edge of the city heading west to
Cannes and east to Monaco and Italy. The
N7 also runs east/west and cuts through
the heart of the city. The road is toll free,
but only two lanes and can be congested
during the peak season. The N98 parallels
the coast and is the winding scenic drive
connecting Nice with Cannes, Monaco and
Italy. The narrow, bike filled D19 and the
three-lane(the third being a nerve racking
shared passing lane) N202 descend into
Nice from the Alps to the north. The A7 is
the major northbound approach from Paris
and Lyon. It merges with the A8 at Aix-enProvence.
Train
Gare Nice-Ville is the headquarters for all
trains coming to and from Nice. SNCF(+33
4 9214 8252/ http://www.sncf.fr/), France's
national rail management company,
oversees the lines, which run east along
the coast through Monaco and down the
boot of Italy to Rome, and west to Marseille
before turning north to Paris. If you can nab
a seat on a TGV high speed train(four to
five daily in summer/two daily in winter) the
journey time between Paris and Nice is 6
hours.
Water
Next to the Caribbean, more cruise liners
sail the Mediterranean Sea than any other
water way in the world. A multitude of
the massive cities on water call at the
port of Nice-Villefranche(+33 04 93 01 78
05/ http://www.riviera-ports.com/). The
luxury yachts and pleasure boats that
are as synonymous with the Riviera as
sunshine moor up the coastline at the Port
of Nice(+33 820 425 555/ http://www.rivieraports.com/).
Getting Around
Public Transport
Nice and its environs are deceptively
spread out, which you quickly learn this
if you choose to tackle sightseeing on
foot. Plus, once the city starts heading
inland from the sea it begins to rise toward
the Alps. Thus, steep inclines can make
walking more of a workout than a leisurely
excursion. This is where Nice's public
transport system, which consists primarily
of Sunbus(+33 8 92 70 7407/ http://
www.sunbus.com/) buses rumbling to all
nooks of town.
enthusiast looking to endure the hilly roads
like the pros riding the Tour de France.
During the peak season(June-August)
the long stretch of concrete boardwalk
alongside the Promenade des Anglais
becomes congested with two wheeled
machines of all sorts.
Ferry
If a day trip to Corsica is on the agenda the
appropriately named Corsica Ferries(+33 4
92 00 42 93/ http://www.corsicaferries.com/)
has daily service to both Calvi and Bastia.
©
Fun Facts
Nice
Region: Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur
Country: France
Nice by the Numbers:
Population: 347,000 Elevation: 176 m/ 578
ft
Average Annual Precipitation: 81 cm/ 32 in
Average July Temperature: 23°C/ 74°F
Car
Quick Facts:
Cruising up and down the long crescent
stretch of the Promenade des Anglais,
preferably in a convertible soaking up the
summer sun, is a popular pastime for those
who travel to Nice. And unlike Cannes'
compact center, which is plagued with
traffic year round, Nice is exceptionally
manageable by car during the off season,
with parking readily available just about
anywhere.
Major Industries: Machinery, Chemicals,
Automobiles, Electronics, Textiles, Food
Processing, Tourism
Taxi
Van Loo, Toulouse Lautrec, Modigliani,
Dufy, Renoir, Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, or
Nietzsche, Aragon, Tolstoï, and musicians
such as Berlioz, Bizet, Massenet were all
artistically inspired by Nice.
Taxis are readily obtainable outside
Gare SCNF(train station) and the
Acropolis(convention center), along the
Promenade des Anglais and the Esplanade
Massna. Or you can telephone Central Taxi
Riviera(+33 4 9313 7878) 24/7.
Bike
Nice is also extremely bike friendly(barring
a few cobblestoned passageways), and
is the perfect destination for any cycling
Electricity: 220 volts, 50Hz, standard two
pin plugs
Time Zone: GMT/UTC+1
Area Code: 04
Did You Know?
Most beaches in Nice aren't sandy but
rocky.
Postcards of Nice's mostly show deserted
beaches because skies are always cloudy
in the warm summer months. In Nice, blue
skies mostly occur during winter times,
101
when locals decide to stay at home due to
the colder temperatures.
©
102
Marseilles Snapshot
Local Info
Marseille is a wonderfully diverse place
composed of 16arrondissements or districts
and a total of 111 differentquartiers or
neighborhoods. Each one is self-contained
and has its own distinct features.
Le Vieux-Port
The old port is one of the best-known parts
of Marseille and its streets are lined with
restaurants and cafés. In the mornings,
fishmongers ply their trade in the fish
market opposite the boats. This is where
Louis XIV moored his fleet. You will also
find galleries here. Next to Cours Estienne
d'Orves you will find Place Thiars, the
liveliest part of this district. Good quality
restaurants stand side by side with tourist
traps. The Theatre National de la Criée is
very popular. A bit further on, Basilique St
Victor is known locally as the'key to the
port'.
a market on Tuesdays, Thursdays and
Saturdays and a busy shopping area at
other times. The adjacent streets provide
a wide assortment of restaurants, bars,
and pubs frequented by the locals such as
l'Intermédiaire or the Bar de la Plaine.
Le Cours Julien
Just along from La Plaine, le Cours Julien is
a popular spot for younger crowds due to its
variety of cafés, cabarets and theaters such
as Chocolat-Théâtre. For concerts Espace
Julien is the place to go. Wander around
the antique shops and clothing boutiques
like Madame Zaza of Marseille.
Castellane
Bars and cinemas such as César and
Prado keep this square at the end of the
Rue de Rome quite busy day and night.
Set in the business district, it also marks
the intersection of main roads such as
Boulevard Baille and the Prado.
La Canebière
Le Prado
This is the most famous road in town. Along
it you will see shopping streets such as Rue
St Ferréol, and the Musée de la Mode, the
Musée de la Marine et de l'Economie, and
the Opéra Municipal. The Odéon is right at
the end.
People come to the Prado to see the
bourgeois buildings that line the main road,
the Boulevard Périer and the Rue Paradis.
The Parc Borély and its castle provide one
of Marseille's biggest open spaces. The
racecourse here is also very popular.
Le Panier
Endoume
A walk through this popular district, close
to the old port, takes you around the
Provençal pedestrian streets lined with
multi-colored buildings. The Clocher des
Accoules, la place des Moulins, la Vieille
Charité and la Major are all rich in history.
The locals are partial to this district which
is dominated by Notre Dame de la Garde.
The nameLa Bonne Mère(literally"the Good
Mother") comes from the enormous statue
of the Virgin Mary on top of the bell tower.
This church is also an important site for
pilgrims.
La Joliette
The Joliette docks are the long red brick
buildings along the motorway footbridge.
The four blocks of buildings were built in
the 19th century and the interiors have
been completely renovated. The Musée des
Docks Romains charts the history of the
port of Marseille. Try to spend an evening at
the Docks des Suds as well.
La Plaine
In Marseille, Place Jean Jaures is also
known as La Plaine. This huge square has
La Corniche
The Corniche(coastal road) winds along the
Mediterranean coast and all the fanciest
villas are located in this district, as is MACGaleries Contemporaines des Musée
de Marseille. There are plenty of good
views but the beaches are mostly hidden.
The Palais de Pharo is a great place for
walks and Vallon des Auffes is a pleasant
surprise. Wherever you are, you can admire
the open sea.
Longchamp
Palais Longchamp is a good place to go for
walks and to take in a little culture. You can
also visit the Musée Grobet-Labadie, the
Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Muséum
d'Histoire Naturelle—the natural history
museum.
©
History
Marseille is the oldest town in France. The
legend surrounding the origins of the town
go back to 600 BCE. Greek sailors coming
from Phocaea(Asia Minor) chose to focus
their activity in the Lacydon creek—the
present location of the Vieux Port. The
day they arrived the leader of the Greeks,
Protis, made a visit to the Ligure tribe,
which had settled there. It just so happened
that on that very day, Gyptis, daughter of
King Naan was to be married. Gyptis chose
Protis as her husband above a number
of other suitors- he had also fallen head
over heels for her—and thus, Massalia was
founded.
Massalia quickly became a successful
city thanks to the commercial talent of
the Greeks. Trading posts were set up all
along the Mediterranean coast, in particular
at Agde, Arles and Le Brusc. Massalia's
history is one of turbulence and uncertainty.
Initially the city went into decline when it
was taken over by Rome. Its fleet, treasure
and trading posts became the property of
Caesar. After the invasions it became a
port which was favorable to commercial
activity. In the 11th century, the city began
to expand. A vast boatyard came under
construction but Marseille quickly fell
under the control of Charles d'Anjou. The
town also opposed Louis XIV, and was
conquered once again. The Fort Saint
Nicolas and the Fort Saint Jean were both
built. At that time, Massalia was under the
control of Colbert who developed the city's
infrastructure. Business prospered on an
international scale.
Periods of prosperity alternated with times
of crisis, and just when Massalia had
103
Marseilles Snapshot continued
become a truly international port it was hit
by a plague. The Great Plague was a major
event during the 18th century. The origin
of the epidemic was a ship—Le Grand
Saint Antoine. Quarantine was not sufficient
and the plague swept through the town. In
May 1720, Marseille was cut off from the
rest of Provence. The parliament in Aix
forbade any communication with Marseille.
However, the plague continued to spread
all the same to Aix, Apt, Arles, Toulon, and
soon the whole of France was touched by
it. The city was not completely wiped out,
but it had lost half of its population. The
revolution was eagerly received. It was in
1792 that the war song, sung by the army
of the Rhine and composed by Rouget de
Lisle—known asLa Marseillaise—became
an anthem. Marseille then rebelled against
the'Convention.' As a result it became"the
town with no name" for a few months.
The town was also involved in World War
II. At the time, it was under the jurisdiction
of the central power and districts including
Panier were destroyed. Once the war
was over, the port became an important
thoroughfare and the city built hospitals and
a metropolitan network.
Today, excavations in the Vieux Port have
show many vestiges of the past. They
indicate that the city, today rich and diverse,
has an incredible history.
©
Hotel Insights
Marseille was built along the shores of the
historical Vieux-Port and La Canebière,
the road which separates the North and
South of the town. Apart from the standard
chain hotels, there is a choice of luxury
accommodation and budget lodging.
Le Vieux-Port
The Vieux Port area is the best place
to stay if you want to enjoy the nightlife,
take in some entertainment and dine in
some of the city's best restaurants. The
Mercure Beauvau overlooking the sea, the
Sofitel Vieux-Port(where you can combine
gastronomic cuisine with a panoramic
view), the Hôtel Alizé and the Résidence du
Vieux-Port are comfortable hotels with a lot
of character and the added advantage of a
great view of Marseille from high up.
La Canebière
A little further away, along and around La
Canebière, try the Mercure Eurocentre or
the Rome et Saint Pierre if you want to be
in the center of a bustling area.
La Corniche
If you like the sea, you should go to
Corniche Kennedy and stay at the Petit
Nice which is aRelais et Châteaux hotel in
Marseille and is recommended for its charm
and gourmet restaurant. For beautiful views
of the sea there are great choices like the
New Hôtel Bompard.
Downtown
Fortunately, the busiest shopping areas
during the day are quiet at night, so if
you want good accommodation in the
town center, go to the Saint-Férreol or the
Edmond Rostand. This area tends to attract
business travelers and luxury hotel chains
such as the Mercure Prado, the Holiday Inn
and the Hotel Kyriad, are abundant.
Gare Saint-Charles
Near Gare Saint-Charles, there are several
cheaper hotels for tourists that are just
passing through. The Ibis Saint-Charles is
reasonably modern and comfortable and
very close to La Canebière.
There are also two excellent youth hostels
in Marseille which are totally different in
terms of architecture and location. The one
in Bois-Luzy is in the north of the town,
housed in a 19th-century castle and the
other is in Bonneveine, on the sea front.
There are many hotels in the suburbs or
along the main routes into Marseille. They
are reasonably comfortable and tend to
have rates less than those right in the city.
These hotels can often fill up quickly so it is
wise to book as far in advance as possible.
©
In over 2,600 years, Marseille has
influenced and transformed the culinary
traditions of the Mediterranean basin.
Oriental influences, which came to
Marseille as a result of successive
invasions throughout its history, have
created a melting pot of culinary styles.
Many dishes make up the cosmopolitan
mosaic of Marseille cuisine including
couscous, spices, pesto soup(flavored
with basil which was originally imported
to Genoa from India), pasta, polenta,
casserole with wine(for which a long
preparation time is required) and of course
the ubiquitousBouillabaisse.
Le Vieux-Port
Allow yourself to be guided by both your
curiosity and your instincts and head
towards the quays of the Vieux-Port,
where restaurants abound. Some of the
bestBouillabaisse(this was originally a soup
made by poor fishermen, but was later to
find its way into the soup bowls of royalty)
can be found at Restaurant Miramar—
one of the restaurants which adheres to
the'Bouillabaisse Charter'. Locals flock to
Les Mets de Provence on the Quai des
Belges. From here, you can watch the
boats as they leave, and see their sails go
up as they pass the Fort Saint-Jean at the
entrance to the port.
Le Panier
Not far from La Vieille Charité, in the Panier
district, Le Panier des Arts offers simple,
yet tasty food. At the famous Chez Etienne
pizzeria, you will be welcomed like an old
friend. On the opposite bank, the symbolic
Les Arcenaulx and La Côte de Boeuf are
two typical Marseille restaurants. The
nearby Rue Sainte is home to a Marseille
gastronomic institution: Patalain.
La Malmousque
The coastal road is bathed in good seafood
and romantic light as the waves murmur
and lap at your feet. There is a restaurant
hidden away in the Malmousque cove.
There is also the Châteaux de Marseille,
Le Petit Nice and the Chez Michel(on the
Plage des Catalans beach), which attracts
104
seafood lovers from all over Marseille.
Further out, in the Goudes district(on the
eastern edge of the city), where the deep
blue of the sea meets the brilliant white of
the rocks, is Chez Aldo.
Le Vallon des Auffes
Back towards the center of the city, you
will find the small fishing port of Vallon des
Auffes. Here, you will get an insight into
the region's culinary diversity. You can try
seafood at L'Epuisette and Chez Fonfon or
pizzas and mixed grills at Chez Jeannot.
La Canebière
In the city center, La Canebière(a
thoroughfare which divides the city in two),
will lead you to the Cours Julien with its
innumerable restaurants, all offering fine,
Southern cuisine. These include: Le Sud du
Haut, La Garbure and also Dar Djerba.
The lively shopping streets of Marseille are
home to a number of hidden gastronomic
treasures. Spend some time in the city's
dining scene and you will find that the
citizens of Marseille are proud of their city,
and happy to share its wonders with you.
©
Nightlife Insights
ART& CULTURE:
Marseille is loaded with a large number of
museums dealing with the history of the city
and the multitude of galleries, which exhibit
contemporary art. The flourishing culture of
Marseille is on fine display throughout the
city.
Museums& Galleries
The town boasts about 15 museums and
more than 70 galleries. If you want to get
to know the city better, start with the Musée
d'Histoire de Marseille and its garden filled
with relics. Following that, you may wish
to find out about Provençal tradition at the
Musée du Vieux Marseille or alternatively
at the Musée des Arts et Traditions
Populaires. Paintings and sculptures are
housed at the Musée Grobet-Labadie
and at the Musée des Beaux-Arts. In the
sphere of economics, there is the Musées
des Docks Romains and the Musée de la
Marine, which chart the history of Phocaen
commerce.
Multicultural Art
There is a stunning collection of masks
and statues at the huge Vieille Charité.
The Musée d'Arts Africains, Océaniens,
Amérindiens is an interesting stop and
the Galerie Caroline Serero also exhibits
African art.
Contemporary Art
For those who like contemporary art,
the MAC hosts several permanent and
temporary collections. Major artists from
Marseille are represented here.
Figurative art
Classic Provençal painting is very popular
with the people of Marseille and there are
numerous galleries: one of the oldest,
the Galerie Jouvène, displays the work
of Briata, Monticelli and Ambriogiani. The
Galerie Jean-Pierre Sylvestre is a little
more upmarket but in the same vein.
Cinema
There are many different cinemas in
Marseille. Your choice will depend on
the type of film you want to watch and
your budget. One art house cinema that
is very popualr is the César. This shows
art house films and shorts, always in the
original language—admission is always
fairly inexpensive. If you prefer to see films
in French or like multi-screen cinemas, the
UGC Capitole is one of the cheapest.
Theater& Dance
The Theatre National de la Criée is the
main theater in Marseille, but there are
many others. Whether you go to the Quai
du Rire or to the Antidote(L'), laughter is
always the best medicine. At the Theatre
Axel Toursky, debut work is the name of the
game. For dance, there is always the Ballet
de Marseille.
place that music lovers are particularly fond
of.
Jazz-Blues
Many of the cafés around town offer jazz
music. The Caravelle is a local favorite.
House, Disco, Rap, Rock, Fusion
For house music, one of the best places to
go is the Trolley Bus in the Vieux Port. The
Intermédiaire is a popular alternative rock
venue. The Poste à Galène showcases a
mixture of rap, rock and reggae. Concerts
are held in the Espace Julien, the Theatre
du Moulin and the Dôme—the zenith of
entertainment in Marseille. The Docks
des Suds offers many different types of
Mediterranean music.
GARDENS& PARKS
The gardens and parks of Marseille are
fairly new. The Parc du Palais Longchamp
and Borély are the best: both for walkers
and those who like to play football. The
Parc Valmer offers a fantastic view of the
sea. The Parc Pastré can be found near
thechâteau of the same name. The Parc
des Bruyères is a great place to take a
relaxing nature walk.
SPORTS
It is impossible to ignore the fact that
Marseille is a football city. The Marseille
team can be seen scoring goals at the
Stade Vélodrome. If you prefer running, the
Corniche(coastal road) and the Parc Borély
are where joggers tend to congregate.
Some are training for the MarseilleCassis half marathon which takes place
in autumn. Horse riding is organized at
the Hippodrome de Pont de Vivaux and
Hippodrome Borély. The Open 13 tennis
tournament takes place each year in
February at the Palais des Sports.
©
ENTERTAINMENT& MUSIC
Calanques
Classical
The coastline between Cap Croisette and
Cap Canaille is like nothing else on earth.
The Odéon regularly stages classical
concerts. Abbaye Saint-Victor is also a
105
Illustrious writers such as Simone de
Beauvoir, Lamartine and Dumas have
written about these creeks or Calanques
in great detail, and of the feeling you get
when you round a bend and see Morgiou
or Sormiou ahead of you. If you only have
one day to visit Marseille, forget everything
else and head for the road that will lead
you to these marvelous wonders of nature.
To get to Sormiou, you can go by car but
you will have to leave it in the car park at
the fire barrier for the day, or take the bus
from the rond point de Bonneveine(a 10minute ride). The path winds on for about
three kilometres. These creeks have been
protected since 1975, so you must respect
the environment and not stray from the
path.
Butte des Moulins. Place de Lenche is the
heart of this typical old area with sloping
streets called Accoules and old façades
of bourgeois residences. Standing a little
ways back is the Vieille Charité, a hospice
built in the 17th century. In the 1960s the
famous architect Le Corbusier transformed
the building into a marvelous museum with
a varied collection of ethnic art.
Return downhill via the north bank towards
the port and the Hôtel de Ville. Here you will
see Fort Saint Jean, built at the end of the
12th century and Fort Saint Nicolas, from
which Louis XIV had canons fired at the
rebellious town in the 17th century to make
sure its citizens remained within his power.
These two forts are important landmarks to
navigators at sea.
Aerlingus( +33 1 53 43 79 10/http://
www.aerlingus.com/)
Aigle Azur(+33 810 797 997/http://
www.aigle-azur.fr/)
Air Algerie( +33 4 95 09 31 10/http://
www.airalgerie.dz/)
Air Australia( +33 825 013 012)
Air France( +33 820 820 820/http://
www.airfrance.fr/)
Air Gabon( +33 4 91 90 7478)
Air Ivoire( +33 0 825 064 066)
Air Malta( +33 1 58 18 64 05/http://
www.airmalta.com/)
Air Senegal( +33 820 202 123/http://
www.air-senegal-international.com/)
Air Transat( +877 872 6728/http://
www.airtransat.com)
To get to Morgiou Creek, come back via the
Sormiou Road as far as Traverse Colgate,
go past Baumettes Prison and stop at
another rustic fire barrier. A four kilometre
walk will take you to a beach lined with
beach huts that have been passed on from
father to son for generations. This is a
paradise by the sea although the peace is
sometimes broken by people walking along
the eastern edge to Sugiton Creek on the
other side. Allow yourself time to wander
along the sparkling hillsides high above the
calm sea. At the tip of the last creek there
is an area of flat stones that has become a
favorite meeting place for local hikers. The
Tourist Office at 4, La Canebière has a very
informative free brochure.
Take the ferry to get to the south bank of
the port. Here, overlooking the dry dock,
stands the Abbaye Saint-Victor. It was built
from the 5th century onwards on top of the
remains of an ancient necropolis. After this
religious visit, take a break at the Four des
Navettes, the old bakery of a Benedictine
convent, which is famous for its'navettes,'
cakes flavored with orange blossom. Go
via the Corderie neighborhood and return
to the famous Place aux Huilles behind
the Théâtre de la Criée(which used to be
the fish market). There are a lot of very
good restaurants that serve fresh seafood
dishes along with late night bars(including
the legendary Bar de la Marine), as well as
bookshops and art galleries.
After such a lovely day, once you're back
in Marseille, treat yourself to an upscale
dinner. Make a reservation at La Ferme.
La Ferme serves delicious and innovative
dishes such as thetourte de courge au foie
gras and thebrouillade à la crème d'oursin.
Wrap up your day with dinner at Les TroisForts. Here you will taste the various flavors
of the Provence region, and you'll enjoy a
magnificent view of the Vieux-Port.
©
2. Abbaye Saint-Victor
Travel Tips
Lufansa( +33 826 10 33 34/http://
www.lufansa.com/)
Ever since Marseille was founded, life
here has revolved around the sea. The
town became a gateway to the Orient,
a place to which people throughout the
Mediterranean came to trade goods and
share cultures. The Vieux-Port at the end
of the Canebière, represents this tradition
perfectly. On the north bank is the oldest
district, the Panier, which climbs up the
Getting there:
Maersk Air( +33 825 320 321)
By Air:
PGA Airlines( +33 4 42 14 34 10/http://
www.pga.pt/)
The Marseille Province Airport( +33 04
42 14 14 14/http://www.mrsairport.com/)
is located 17 miles northwest of the city
center. Airlines include:
Alitalia( +33 820 315 315/http://
www.alitalia.fr/)
Britannia Airways( +33 825 825 400.http://
www.britanniaairways.com/)
CCM( +33 820 820 820/http://
www.aircorsica.com/)
Condor( +1 800 524 6975/http://
www7.condor.com)
Corsa Air( +33 825 000 825/http://
www.corsaair.fr/)
CSA Czech Airlines( +33 1 47 42 18 11/
http://www.czechairlines.com/)
Easy Jet( +33 8 25 08 25 08/http://
www.easyjet.com/)
Hapag Lloyd Express( +33 825 026 071/
http://www.hlx.com/)
Iberia( +33 820 075 075/http://
www.iberia.com/)
KLM Exel( +33 890 710 71/http://
www.klm.com/)
Royal Air Maroc( +33 820 821 821/http://
www.royalairmaroc.com/)
SN Brussels Airlines( +33 826 10 18 18/
http://www.flysn.fr/)
106
Tunis Air( +33 820 044 044/http://
www.tunisair.com/)
Twin Jet( +33 892 707 737/http://
www.twinjet.net/)
Yermenia( +33 1 42 56 06 00/http://
www.yermenia.ye/)
Shuttle buses are available to and from
the Airport and Marseille Saint-Charles
Rail Station. The journey time is about 25
minutes and shuttles run every 20 minutes
during peak hours.
Taxis are available 24 hours a day and
can be booked over the phone at+33 04
42 88 11 44. Check their website athttp://
www.taxis-aeroport.com.
Rental car services at the airport include:
ADA( +33 04 42 14 30 44/http://www.adalocation.com/)
Avis( +33 04 42 14 21 67/http://
www.avis.fr/)
Budget( +33 04 42 14 24 55/http://
www.budget.fr/)
Europcar( +33 04 42 14 24 75/http://
www.europcar.fr/)
Hertz( +33 04 42 14 34 66/http://
www.hertz.fr/)
National( +33 04 42 14 24 90/http://
www.citer.fr/)
Sixt( +33 04 42 14 35 30/http://www.sixt.fr/)
By Rail:
Marseille is connected to hundreds of
European cities by railway. TGV(http://
www.tgv.com) bullet trains run from cities
including Paris, London, Rome, Madrid,
Geneva, Milan, Barcelona, and Brussels
regularly.
Marseille by the Numbers:
By Bus:
Average July Temperature: 85 degrees F
Buses arrive in Marseille at the Gare
Routiere at place Victor Hugo( +33 04
91 08 1640) near the St-Charles Railway
Station.
By Car:
Population: 1,604,550(2007)
Elevation: 118 feet
Average January Temperature: 52 degrees
F
Average Precipitation: 23 inches
Quick Facts:
Major Industry: petrochemical and
chemical, steel, food, aeronautics,
microelectronics, textiles
Access Marseille via the north
motorway(A7), the coastal motorway(A55),
and the east motorway(A50).
Electricity: 220 volts, 60 Hz; standard twopin plug
Getting Around:
Country Dialing Code: 33
The bus station( +33 4 91 08 1640) in
Marseille is located at Victor Hugo next to
the train station and offers connections to
cities and small towns in the area.
There are rental car agencies at both the
airport and St-Charles Railway Station.
Taxis are also available in select locations
throughout the city.
Bicycles can be rented at the train station in
Marseille and cost about EUR10 per day.
©
Fun Facts
Marseille
Time Zone: UTC/GMT+1
Area Code: 4
Did You Know?
Marseille has made its way onto the silver
screen as an exciting and exotic locale for
films likeThe French Connection and its
sequel.
Orientation:
Marseille is the second largest city
in France and is located on the
southeastern coast of the country along the
Mediterranean Sea. The city is southwest
of Nice, east of Toulouse and southeast of
Paris.
©
Country: France
107
Naples Snapshot
Local Info
Naples was for many years regarded as
the capital city of Italy and the center of
development for arts, music, history and
architecture. Today it's just as well known
for its Mafia presence and its long-running
garbage-collection strikes. But the deep
Italian culture endures and it's evident
everywhere: in the charming old buildings,
the museums and the historical sites--as
well as in the world-class thin-crust pizza.
Sights
Before there was Naples there was
Pompeii. And there is still Pompeii, since
the ancient city was remarkably well
preserved by the Mount Vesuvius eruption
that destroyed it. You can see how the
ancient Italians lived on a daylong visit to
the ruins of the city. Or you can go to the
Museo Archeologico Nazionale, which
houses many of the most remarkable finds
from Pompeii and nearby Herculaneum.
There is a replica of Pompeii, along with
artifacts that include phallic sculptures and
pornographic paintings.(Consequently, the
museum does not admit children under 11
years old.)
The Underground City is another
fascinating destination. Take a tour of
winding passageways beneath the city
and the ruins buried there, including old
buildings, cisterns and caverns. For a
livelier time, check out Spaccanapoli, one
of the most vivacious areas of Naples. Here
you'll discover traditional and delicious
pizzerias, as well as the old apartments and
churches that give the neighborhood its
authentic personality.
Dining
Legend has it that pizza originated in
Naples. It's certainly one reason tourists
put the place on their itinerary. In fact, a fair
number come only for the distinctive thincrust pies. In old times pizza was known
as the food of the common people and,
in the past, visitors would go to the city's
poorer areas just to have a taste. Today,
however, pizza establishments abound in
the city. Among the most popular is L'Antica
Pizzeria da Michele in Sersale, which has
been around since 1870. Pizza lovers
rave about its unique crust. Others prefer
Pizzeria la Notizia in Vomero.
A great place to explore many authentic
Neapolitan foods is the Centro Storico,
Naples' historical center. Locals love the
area's street food, including pizza fritta and
crochette di palate. An authentic Neapolitan
breakfast is not complete without the
traditional sfogliatelle, a flaky filled pastry.
Attanasio on Via Vico Ferrovia is known to
serve the most heavenly version.
Shopping
Toledo is Naples' prime shopping street-and where you'll find the magnificent
shopping arcade Galleria Umberto. This
site has been standing since the late 19th
century and is a great place to shop for
leather goods, antiques, ceramic figurines
and other handcrafted pieces for your
home. Some of the smaller shops in Naples
close in the early afternoon, only to reopen
at around 5 p.m. Many shops don't open on
Sundays and Monday mornings but most
Thursdays late-night shopping is common.
© NileGuide
History
Greco-Roman Naples
The origins of the city of Naples are rooted
in legend. The chief protagonist is the
Parthenopean Siren, a mythical, fascinating
creature which for centuries, was said
to resemble a bird, but with the delicate
facial features of a young girl. In Antiquity,
many shipwrecks occurred off the Island
of the Sirens,(believed by some to be the
Isle of Li Galli), which lies in front of the
coast at Positano. This was apparently
because sailors would be bewitched and
disturbed by the irresistible song of the
island's inhabitants(the sirens), causing
them to lose control of both themselves and
their ships. It was only Ulysees, the hero of
Ithaca who managed to escape this fate,
by forcing his crew to plug their ears with
wax and then tying them to the mainmast
of the fragile hull, thus saving the ship and
all its equipment from being wrecked in a
disastrous storm.
History books tell us that the Greeks
arrived in Naples in stages. In the 9th
century B.C., they arrived on the island
of Pithecusa(Ischia); in the following
century, they arrived on the island of
Cuma, and it was only in the 6th century
B.C. that they founded Parthenope on
the isle of Megaride, then extended to
Monte Echia(the Pizzafalcone hill), which
was more of a commercial centre than
a city. In 470, the inhabitants of Cuma
founded a real city in the east(on the site
of the current historic city centre), which
they calledNeapolis(new city), in order to
distinguish it fromPalepolis(old city).
The urban layout of the city of Neapolis
echoed the Grecian layout consisting of
the “cardo” and “decumano” road system.
The cardo is a narrow street running from
north to south, while the decumano is wider
and runs from east to west. This layout
is still visible today as you walk down Via
dei Tribunali and Via Benedetto Croce,
Decumano Superiore and Via San Biagio
dei Librai, Decumano Inferiore.
The city of Naples, with its magnificent
scenery, attracted many intellectuals,
including Cicero, Horatio and Pliny the
Elder, who wrote about the terrible eruption
of the Vesuvius in 79 B.C. which destroyed
Pompeii and Ercolano. The great Latin poet
Virgil also lived in Naples—he chose to stay
in the delightful Mergellina district where
the so-called Tomb of Virgil and the nearby
Tomb of the Leopards can now be found.
Medieval Naples
During the early Middle Ages, the city
remained inside the walls that were built
under Valentiniano III(450-455). The walls
were only widened at certain sections, to
include the del Gesù Church, part of the
Santa Chiara Convent, the neighbouring
palaces, and the Santa Maria La Nova and
San Giovanni Maggiore churches. The first
Christian cemeteries in southern Italy were
108
Naples Snapshot continued
also built here: the San Gennaro and San
Gaudioso catacombs bear witness to this.
Local ecclesiastical history states that the
Emperor Constantine founded the basilica
which was dedicated to Santa Restituta in
the 8th century. The apses, dedicated to
San Giorgio Maggiore and San Gennaro
in the basilicas founded by the Bishop
Severo at the end of the 4th century are of
particular interest; they are linked via the
underground catacombs dedicated to San
Gennaro.
The Baptistery of St John the Baptist also
dates back to this period—it consists of a
baptismal building founded by the Bishop
Sotero in the second half of the fifth century.
The small Santa Maria Maggiore bell dating
back to the ninth century is an isolated
example of Lombardian architecture.
Norman/Swabian Period
After having been made an autonomous
Byzantine duchy, Naples was conquered
by the Normans in the ninth century. The
urban development that took place during
this period encompassed more of the
hinterland,(with the construction of the
Capuano Castle) and the flat land near
the port where the ‘Castel dell'Ovo'(‘Egg
Castle') was enlarged, to become the royal
palace of Ruggeri II.
Angioino and Aragon period
In 1266, Charles I of Angiò transferred
the capital of the kingdom of Sicily from
Palermo to Naples, heralding a period of
active civil renewal for the city. The city
walls were enlarged: from the Capuano
Castle, they now included the churches
of Sant'Eligio and Egiziaca a Forcella,
the area around the Market, Santa Maria
La Nova, the area where the Orsini of
Gravina Palace was to be built, the area
on which the Piazza del Gesù currently
stands and the Via San Sebastiano leading
all the way down to Port'Alba. Charles I
was particularly concerned with carrying
out public works; he ordered the drainage
and settlement of the marshy area in
the northeast of the city, as well as the
restructuring of the Campano Aqueduct.
The Market and all the artists' workshops,
which were situated in the historic city
center, were moved to the southeastern
part of the city. In 1279, the construction of
the Castle Nuovo began.
The religious architecture of the time gave
rise to churches such as the San Lorenzo
Maggiore church, which was already built
on the site of the Roman basilica and
also the churches of San Domenico, San
Pietro a Maiella, Santa Chiara, Santa Maria
Egiziaca, San Gregorio Armeno, Donna
Romita and Donnaregina.
The Angoians imported architecture,
jewellry, fabrics and various other objects
into Naples from France.
Representative masters from major Italian
schools of art were invited to Naples: Pietro
Cavallini from Rome, Simone Martini from
Sienna and Giotto from Florence. The large
cycle of frescoes in the ancient Santa Maria
Donnaregina church are evidence of the
influence of the Roman school of art in
Naples. The only evidence of the three
years of Giotto's work in Naples(1329-1332)
are the fragments of his work which remain
in the Santa Barbara Chapel in the Castel
Nuovo. Evidence of the school of painting
developed during the reign of Joannna I are
visible in the Chiesa dell'Incoronata and the
Barrese Chapel in San Lorenzo.
The passage from typical Neopolitan
architecture to the floral décor of 15thcentury Catalan architecture which
appeared in urban centres of the the
Aragon period was masterminded by
Guglielmo Sagrera. This was the architect
who designed the ‘Room of Barons' in
the Castel Nuovo, and who was probably
also involved in the reconstruction of the
castle in the 15th century, before Italian
Renaissance elements were introduced.
The Spanish Viceroy
In the 16th century, Naples became
the capital of the Spanish viceroyalty.
Don Pedro Alvarez of Toledo(Viceroy
from 1532-1553) widened the city walls,
increasing the city's surface area by a third.
The walls on the western side joined at
the Sant'Elmo Castle fortress, which was
re-built to include the Angioian Belforte.
The building work was carried out along
the axis of the newly built Via Toledo. Six
streets parallel to the Via Toledo, crossed
by a series of streets at right angles to it,
make up an area that was dedicated to
military lodgings. This area corresponds to
the Montecalvario district, which is now a
residential area.
The construction of residences for the
aristocracy both in the ancient city centre
and outside the city walls provided the
city with a good equilibrium, with both
luxury buildings, and less ostentatious
ones being built to cope with the demand
for housing: the Orsini, Marigliano and
Corigliano Palaces are all examples of civil
Renaissance buildings.
The grandiose Porta Capuana by Giuliano
da Maiano remains standing to this day.
The Triumphal Arch of Alfonso of Aragon
in the Castel Nuovo was also built during
this period—some believe it was the work
of Luciano Laurano, while others attribute it
to Guglielmo Sagrera.
The architectural organisations of the
15th century were housed in the Palace
of Diomede Carafa a San Biagio dei
Librai and in the Cuomo Palace on Via
Duomo. Today, the offices of the Faculty
of Architecture are housed in the Gravina
Palace and the Church of Santa Caterina
a Formiello. Marble was sent to Naples
by Donatello and Michelozzo for the tomb
of Cardinal Brancaccio in the Church of
Sant'Angelo a Nilo. Antonio Rossellino sent
the last of his works to the Monteoliveto
Church where Guido Mazzoni of Modena
and Benedetto of Maiano also worked.
17th century Naples
During this period, the Treasury was
called upon to finance the building of
luxury residences for the nobility: religious
buildings and the building of the new Royal
Palace(all by Domenico Fontana), as well
as the degli Studi Palace, which is now
the National Museum. Palaces were also
built in Posillipo, including the Donn'Anna
di Cosimo Fanzago Palace that renewed
a tradition started by the Romans for
residences in the Posillipo Hills.
109
Numerous churches by Francesco Grimaldi
—San Paolo Maggiore, Santi Apostoli,
Santa Maria degli Angeli a Pizzofalcone—
were also built at this time. The churches
of the Ascensione a Chiaia, Santa Maria
degli Angeli alle Croci, San Ferdinando,
San Giorgio Maggiore, San Giuseppe
delle Scalze a Pontecorvo, la Sapienza,
SantaTeresa a Chiaia and Santa Maria
Egiziaca a Pizzofalcone and the Maddaloni
Palace were all designed by Cosimo
Fanzago.
All of these works are Neopolitan
interpretations of the Baroque style—more
obvious in external appearance than in
spatial conceptions, they are extremely
colourful and intricately decorated. Brother
Nuvolo, who designed the churches
of Santa Maria alla Sanità and San
Sebastiano—was also influenced by new,
expressive Baroque styles. The architect
Arcangelo Guglielmelli continued this
theme and painted beautifully imaginative
settings and backdrops such as that of San
Giuseppe dei Ruffi and the Library of the
‘Girolamini'. In 1607, Michelangelo Merisi
da Caravaggio left his masterful paintings to
the Pio Monte di Misericordia and the San
Domenico Maggiore charitable institutions.
Eighteenth-century Naples
The invading Austrian powers of 1707-1734
took over a city afflicted by the epidemic of
1691, in economic stagnation and under
the influence of the excessively dictatorial
ecclesiastical powers.
The city was in an even worse state when
Charles III of Bourbon succeeded the
Hapsburgs in 1734. The new monarch
imposed a tax on the property of the
Church in order to augment the resources
of the Treasury. Charles III encouraged the
development of commerce and industry, the
building of an urban infrastructure(roads,
ports etc.), the improvement of urban
conditions, as can be observed in the city
plan drawn up by Giovanni Carafa duca di
Nola which indicate the new ideas in urban
development with regard to the Via Foria,
Capodimonte and the Torre del Greco area
as well as the expansion of the Granili.
The Bourbon dynasty was also involved in
the construction of major buildings such as
the Teatro San Carlo designed by Medrano
and inaugurated in 1737, the Royal Palace
at Capodimonte – also by Medrano, and the
Royal Hostel for the Poor by Ferdinando
Fuga(who also designed the façade of
the dei Girolamini Church, the Giordano
and Caramanico Palaces), the cavalry
barracks on the della Maddalena bridge by
Luigi Vanvitelli, the palaces of Ferdinando
Sanfelice ai Vergini, the Serra di Cassano
Palace and the Church of Santa Maria delle
Periclitanti at Pontecorvo. Luigi Vanvitelli
designed the d'Angri Palace, the Church of
Our Lady of the Annunciation, the Church
of the Missionary Fathers and the Carolino
Forum.
All buildings constructed in the Bourbon
period gave the city a more European
dimension.
19th century Naples
At the beginning of the 19th century, Joseph
Bonaparte continued with the work on the
city's infrastructure that was started by
Ferdinando. He had a wide road built that
ran from the Museum to the Royal Palace
at Capodimonte, which dug in to the della
Sanità Valley with a viaduct inaugurated by
Murat in 1810. Murat promoted the creation
of the Botanical Gardens, the Astronomical
Observatory, the widening of the Via Foria
and the lengthening of the Via Posillipo, all
in line with the new guiding principles of
urban development.
When Ferdinand I returned to Naples, the
construction of the Ferdinand Forum(now
known as the Piazza del Plebiscito) got
underway. At the end of the piazza stand
the San Francesco di Paola Church and the
San Giacomo Palace for the ministery. The
Bagnoli road was completed and Antonio
Niccolini was given the task of re-building
the San Carlo theatre, which was destroyed
in a fire.
Ferdinand IV had the Via Posillipo
completed so that it ran all the way to
Bagnoli, and work was begun on the
building of the Royal Villa,(now the Town
Hall) which stands on the Chiaia Riviera.
During this period, tourism experienced
a boom, with around 8000 visitors
arriving a year. Ferdinand II had the
Via Costantinopoli widened, the Via del
Piliero settled, and built the Corso Maria
Teresa,(now renamed the Corso Vittorio
Emanuele).
Modern Naples
In 1860, Naples was unified with the rest
of Italy. At this point it had around 450,000
inhabitants.
The first significant work carried out in
20 years of unity was the widening of
the Via Duomo(an ancient pivotal point
of the Greco-Roman city), the Corso
Garibaldi and the Via Caracciolo. Part of
the urban renewal work which was carried
out after the cholera epidemic of 1884
was the demolition of the most congested
areas which were located in a straight line
along the Corso Umberto I, as well as the
construction of a fifth road characterised by
the Umbertini Palaces. With the exception
of this road, the alleys and shops in the
surrounding area remained breeding
ground for poverty.
In 1891, the introduction of the funicular
provided the first link to Vomero, a newly
expanding district. Between the two
world wars, Naples' urban expansion was
considerable. The expansion included
the Vasto district, located near the central
railway station, the Vomero district, and
the Regina Elena district in the west, the
Arenella and Materdei districts in the north
and the Fuorigrotta district in Campi Flegrei.
In the city centre, renewal work continued
with the building of the Carità district, the
Via Diaz and the palaces of the fascists.
The ‘Mostra d'Oltremare' exhibition complex
was built in the western region.
During the Second World War(1943-1944),
the city sustained considerable damage.
©
Hotel Insights
Where to stay in Naples
110
Naples is a city that never sleeps, but it
still offers a wide variety of places to stay
for the weary traveler; there are hotels to
suit all tastes and all pockets, and some
of them are world-renowned. You can
find some of the city's most luxurious and
famous hotels on the beaches in the zone
of Santa Lucia, home of the legendary siren
Partenope(from whom the ancient city took
its name) and where Greek colonies settled
in the 7th Century. While standing on the
beach, you'll understand why it inspired
poetry, as you delight in the beauty of the
bay, stretching from Vesuvius to the hill of
Posillipo, with Capri and Sorrento on the
horizon, and where silver stars still sparkle
on the sea.
Quartiere 1: Chiaia – Posilipo- San
Ferdinando Some of the cities greatest
hotels reside in this district, close to all
the major sights, transportation and the
sea. These include Hotel Excelsior, which
is situated on Via Partenope: this is an
example of elegance, luxury, and tradition,
and the rooms have the best view of the
bay. Its majesty and refinement make it
the ideal place for wealthy guests who
know exactly what they want. Grand
Hotel Vesuvio is prestigious and very
elegant and has been host to many famous
people, amongst who is the great Caruso,
after whom the hotel has named its best
restaurant. The last of the grand hotels
on this street is the Grand Hotel Santa
Lucia; it is a little less expensive than the
others, but just as refined and comfortable
with a splendid view of Capri. Along the
promenade is the Hotel Royal Continental,
both modern and functional, with a
swimming pool and an architectural style
that is quite different from the neighboring
hotels. Not far from the sea, in the Largo
Vasto a Chiaia, between the Villa Comunale
and Via Dei Mille, one of the most elegant
zones of the city, you'll find the Hotel
Majestic. Near the Via Partenope, Hotel
Miramare is housed in an ancient patrician
villa, restored to its former glory on Via
Nazzaro Sauro; its rooms should suit the
most refined tourist. Hotel Paradiso stands
on Via Catullo on the Posillipo Hill, and
has a beautiful terrace garden overlooking
the bay. In Corso Vittorio Emanuele,
Hotel Britannique and G. H. Parker's are
exquisitely furnished with period furniture
and boast wonderful views that will satisfy
everyone's tastes. If you want to stay in
the Chiaia area, you might want to look
for the following: the Hotel Canada, which
is close to the sea; the Hotel Splendid on
Via Mergellina faces the Phlegrean fields
and the islands in the bay. One of the more
affordable hotels close to the sea is the
Hotel Rex.
Quartiere 2: Avvocata – Mercato –
Montecalvario – Pendino – Porto –
San Giuseppe If you want a hotel in
the centre of the city that is close to the
most important monuments, try one of
the following: Renaissance Naples Hotel
Mediterraneo on Via Ponte di Tappia,
not far from the attractive shop windows
of Via Toledo and Piazza del Municipio;
Mercure Napoli Angioino Centro on Via
De Petris close to the maritime museum;
Grand Hotel Oriente on Via Diaz; or the
Jolly Hotel housed inside a skyscraper
on Via Medina. All of these hotels have
a welcoming atmosphere and are stylish
and elegant. Not far from Corso Umberto
I is the Hotel Suite Esedra and near Via
Toledo is Hotel Executive and Hotel Toledo.
There are many pensions and small hotels,
especially in the university area, and
close to the railway, where the prices are
moderate compared to those in the city
centre: Duomo, Hotel Gallo, Hotel Milton,
and Albergo Nettuno. There is also the
Hotel Luna Rossa.
Quartiere 3: San Carlo Arena – Stella On
the Capodimonte hill, near Via Moiariello,
the Hotel Villa Capodimonte has a large
green park and offers a breathtaking view of
the city and its surroundings.
Quartiere 4: Poggioreale- San Lorenzo
– Vicaria – Zona Industriale Near Corso
Umberto IHotel Nuovo Rebecchino, the
Hotel Siri, and the There are many threestar hotels in Naples, and many can be
found near the train station, such as the
Hotel Cavour. Close to Central Station, it
is very comfortable and has impeccable
service. Hotel Palace is on the corner
of Piazza Garibaldi and the Starhotel
Terminus. Hotel delle Nazioni is in Vicolo
Ferrovia and close to Central Station. The
Holiday Inn is set amongst the skyscrapers
in the Centro Direzionale and is perfect for
business travelers. Heading down to the
central zone, on Via Cerare Rossarol, you'll
find the historic Hotel Prati.
Quartiere 5: Arenella – Vomero One of
the more pricy options within the city and
close enough to all the action is the Hotel
Belvedere on Via Angelini in Vomero. Or, if
looking for more affordable accommodation
in this area try the Hotel Oasi.
Quartiere 10: Bagnoli – Fuorigrotta
In Agnano, which is close to the most
important sports grounds, you'll find
Hotel San Germano on Via Beccadelli;
its rooms are elegant and well furnished.
In the Campi Flegrei zone protected by
beautiful parks, are the Hotel delle Terme
on Via Agnano Astroni, Montespina Park
Hotel on Via San Gennaro close to the
thermal baths, and American Park Hotel
on Via Scarfoglio. In Fuorigrotta, near
to San Paolo stadium and the Mostra
d'Oltremare(the headquarters of the trade
fairs), perfect for those who are just passing
through, are Hotel Serius, the Hotel Cesare
Augusto in Viale Augusto, Hotel Leopardi,
and Villa Medici on Via Nuova Bagnoli,
which is housed in a renovated villa. The
Hotel Miravalle is close to the nature
reserve in Astroni, the Villa Maria is in
Bagnoli,
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Dining Out In Naples
The wonderful Neapolitan food scene is an
amalgamation of a history full of splendour
and misery, riches and poverty, the fruit of
numerous dominations, and the ability of
Neapolitans to make a virtue of necessity.
An elegant gastronomy which has roots
in tastes and habits of the people who
produced traditional local products which
have now become synonymous with the
glorious city of Naples: pizza, spaghetti,
ragù, mozzarella, a tazzulella e caffè,
not to mention desserts such as babà,
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sfogliatelle,pastiera(puff pastry filled with
cream cheese, barley and candied fruit),
and gelati.
Neapolitan cuisine owes much to the city's
fertile soil, which offers up a bounteous
offering, above all the San Marzano tomato,
and the sea, which is the basis for seafood
dishes such as the exquisite spaghetti
alle vongole(a clam pasta dish),impepate
di cozze(a mussel-based dish), and the
exquisitesoutè, and we haven't even
mentioned the grilled fish and seafood
dishes or the elaborate fish- and seafoodbased soups. Many restaurants serve raw
oysters, cannolicchi, andtaratufi, which are
strictly from Naples.
If you want a traditional restaurant you
should head for the Borgo Marinaro area,
where the streets wind down to the Castel
dell Ovo. Try La Bersagliera or Zi' Teresa.
In Santa Lucia, you'll find exclusive
hotels and exclusive restaurants, such as
La Cantinella and Caruso; they all offer
wonderful views of the gulf.
Mergellina sits right on the coast and
has great restaurants where you can taste
the fruits of the sea. The following places
are well worth a try: Dal Delicato, Ciro a
Mergellina, Don Salvatore, and Al Sarago
in Piazza San Nazzaro, where there are
other restaurants that are a little more
economical.
Sbrescia is in Posillipo and also has a
wonderful view. La Sacrestia offers very
sophisticated cuisine and Giuseppone a
Mare serves traditional fish recipes made
with the freshest fish possible.
If you consider yourself to be a true
romantic, then Fenestella di Marechio is
the place to be. Relax in this beautiful area
and feast on Parthenopean cuisine at La
Fazenda or A Fenestella.
The Centro Storico has plenty of trattorias
to choose from which serve traditional
dishes at low prices. These places are less
fancy but which are just as welcoming, and
you will definitely meet the real Napoletani
here! Try Dante e Beatrice in Piazza Dante;
Ciro a Santa Brigida close to Teatro San
Carlo; or San Carlo(the restaurant), which
is close to Palazzo Reale. On Via Monte
di Dio in the ancient area of Partenope,
there's the splendid Amici Miei. In the heart
of the city, you'll find Umberto. If you are
close to the station and looking for a bite to
eat, why not try Da Mimì alla Ferrovia?
Pizzerie deserve a mention of own, and
Naples is full of them! They differ from the
traditional evening eateries and are filled
with students, professionals, salespeople,
craftsmen- nearly everybody, in fact!
They are as busy and as popular as fast
food joints, but offer delicious flavours
and high quality ingredients. L'Antica
Pizzeria in Forcella has large marble tables,
and they serve only delicious seafood
pizzas(seasoned with garlic, olive oil,
tomato, and oregano)and Pizza Margherita
with its traditional mozzarella topping.
The creative genius of the Neapolitan
pizzamakers is now taking precedence
over tradition as they wildly combine
weird toppings to make the ultimate taste
sensation. Every pizzaiolo(pizzamaker)
worth his salt has invented a topping,
and each pizzeria includes variations on
traditional themes on their menu.
©
Nightlife Insights
Entertainment in Naples
When talking about Naples, the subject of
entertainment is bound to come up as all
the main attractions of the city have the
joyous, carefree spirit of a people who are
traditionally devoted to music, singing and
dancing. Nonetheless, as often happens,
reality is very different, however, the great
cultural and creative legacy of the city has
produced art and shows of international
appeal, since ancient times. One example
of this is the Neapolitan song tradition
which still charms the world.
Theatres The Neapolitan theatrical
tradition is extremely rich. Various families
of actor-writers such as the Scarpetta, Di
Maggio, De Filippo and Giuffrè families
have give life to a great variety of farces
and plays which are still performed in
various theatres around the city.
Teatro Bellini, was opened as a lyric theatre
in 1864 and is now the most beautiful
theatre in Naples. It is located at 17, Via
Conte di Ruvo, near Piazza Dante, and
offers an international programme. Not far
from here, in two streets which cut across
Via Toledo are two, small theatres which
offer playes for a young, cultured audience.
Trendy shows are performed here, written
in search of new, expressive languages.
Galleria Toledo is in Via Concezione at
36, Monteoliveto, and the Teatro Nuovo
is in 16, Via Montecalvario. Teatro Nuovo
has two rooms. The smaller is called
Sala Assoli, and is little more than a
basement, where historic performances
have taken place. The two theatres also
show important, cinematic programmes.
Another large theatre in the city is Agusteo,
built at the beginning of the twentieth
century in Piazzetta Duca d'Aosta not far
from the central Via Toledo. The theatre
is now the important home of musical and
light theatre and musicals, review shows
and singing recitals are put on here.
In Piazza Municipio, another historic,
Neapolitan theatre was opened in 1995
after a long closure. The Mercadante was
opened in the second half of the eighteenth
century and hosted the great, opera of the
time. It is now the great prose theatre of the
city.
In 157, Via Chiaia is perhaps the best loved
of the Neapolitan theatres; the Sannazzaro.
Popular theatre is performed here, linked
to the dialect tradition and it has hosted
the most important, loved and venerated
Neapolitan actors, including De Filippo,
Nino Taranto, Pietro de Vico and Luisa
Conte. The comic theatre of great historic
writers of nineteenth century theatre is the
Politeama in Via Monte di Dio. Not far from
here the Teatro Bracco offers a programme
which is mostly based on dialect, comic
theatre.
The Vomero, the hilly district of the city,
is home to another, imortant theatre
in Naples. The Diana, at 69, Via Luca
Giordano 69 is where great, Italian prose
is performed as well as a variety of other
plays. In the same area the Teatro Cilea
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has a good, theatrical school and offers
works by local, contemporary writers. Other
theatres to remember are the Teatro Tenda
Partenope in Via Barbagallo, near the
Palazzetto dello Sport, where jazz and
rock concerts take place and the Teatro la
Perla at 35, Via Nuova Agnano, the Teatro
Leopardi, an experimental theatre in the
street of the same name and the Teatrino di
Edenlandia in Viale Kennedy which offers
an interesting programme of children's
theatre.
There are also a number of smaller places
that offer interesting shows, cabaret and
true discoveries such as the Sancarluccio
at 49, Via San Pasquale, Al Bruttini in
Via Port alba, Teatro Totò in Via Frediano
Cavara, Tunnel Cabaret at 16, Via Santa
Chiara, Spazio Libero in Via Parco
Margherita and La Riggiola in Piazza
S.Luigi.
The great, Teatro San Carlo in the street
of the same name, is another matter. It is
adjacent to Piazza Trieste, and is one of the
main monuments of the city and one of the
most important lyric theatres in the world,
second only to the Scala in Milan, although
it is larger and has impeccable acoustics.
This temple of music, has hosted the world
premieres of many operas, in the course of
over two hundred years and now offers a
first rate programme.
Cinema The crisis of cinema in the 1980's
forced many cinemas to close. Only the
largest have survived here and now that
the crisis is partly over, many new cinemas
have emerged with avant-garde technology
and in many cases modern multi-screens.
In the city centre are traditional cinemas
such as the Fiorentini at 5, Via Bracco,
Santa Lucia at 59, Via Santa Lucia, the
Roxy and the Modernissimo that has four
screens and is near Piazza Dante. Near the
university is the Accademy Astra at 109, Via
Mezzocannone and the Adriano at 12, Via
Monteoliveto. These are average size, and
can each hold about 500 people and have
large screens. Near the Central Station at
60, Corso Meridionale is the Corso Cinema
and there are two, rather small cinemas,
one of which is the Agorà in the city centre
and the other is the Pierrot in Via De Meis.
other locals which are full of young people
from night until early in the morning.
Chiaia, the most elegant area of the city,
offers a number of good cinemas including
the Delle Palme at 12, Via Vetriera which
has two, new screens and around a
thousand seats. In the same area is the
Alcione at 3, Via Lomonaco not far from the
Filangieri, the Arlecchino and the Fiamma
which all offer comfortable, medium sized
halls.
The rich, musical panorama of the city has
contributed to the birth of many of these
places as well as discos which offer live
music such as the Vibes Cafè at 26, Largo
S.Giovanni Maggiore, the Otto jazz Club
near Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the
Sanakura at 5, Via Pallonetto Santa Chiara.
In the Mergellina district is the President
at 19, Via T.Campanella, the Empire at
20, Via F.Giordani, the Ambasciatori at
33, Via Crispi and the Amedeo at 69, Via
Martucci. These are all cinemas which
show new releases and seat more than
three hundred. Towards Posillipo, is
the Posillipo which is very popular with
young people as it is cheap and has good
programmes.. The Vomero district offers a
good choice of quality cinemas, including
the two multiscreens, Arcobaleno, with
three screens at 7, Via Carelli and the
Plaza, at 85, Via Kerbaker which has two
screens. Other cinemas in the area include
the Vittoria at 8, Via Piscicelli, the Abadir at
35, Via Paisiello and the Acacia at 10, Via
Tarantino which all have large capacities
and avant-garde technology. Most of the
cinemas in Fuorigrotta have closed down
and the old buildings now house banks or
large shops. There are only two cinemas
in the area which are both multi screens.
There is the renovated La Perla at 36, Via
Nuova Agnano and the new Duel in Via
Scarfoglio.
In the outskirts of the city, in the Chiaiano
district is the Felix which has three, small
screens which have good quality. In Via
San Michele in Ponticelli is the Maestoso
which can hold up to eight hundred people.
Many of the alternative or independent
cinemas in the city have been turned into xrated cinemas. Amongst the survivors are
the Galleria Toledo and the Nuovo which
show art films.
Naples by night In the last twenty years
the city has seen a proliferation of bars,
pubs, sandwich bars, spaghetti houses and
Amongst the most popular discos are the
Blues e Blues in Via Michetti, Vertego in
Via Caccavello and the Twenty Three in
Via Mancini, as well as the B.Out, Zeppelin
Club, and the Dry Dock in Via Cinthia both
of which are in Fuorigrotta. There is also
the Casablanca in Via Petrarca, Chez
Moi in Via Parco Margherita, My way near
Piazza dei Martiri and the mythical La Mela
in Via dei Mille. There are also many disco
pubs such as La Bavarese in Via Astroni,
Dug Out in Mergellina. There are many
trendy pubs which attract the night owls in
Naples such as the Livingston.
©
Spaccanapoli
There is a street in Naples that splits
the city from East to West; it is in fact a
series of streets that follow one another
consecutively, crossing some of the most
important main roads of the city and some
of its monumental piazzas. This long,
straight gash is known asSpaccanapoli, and
it is visible from the top of Vomero where
San Martino looks down onto the maze of
palaces, roofs, churches, cupolas, spires,
roads, and side streets that have been the
beating heart of the city for more than two
thousand years.
This tour begins on Via Maddaloni, where
Palazzo Carafa(built in 1528, with a
magnificent 17th century gateway) sits
on the corner of Via Toledo. Continuing
along Via Domenico Capitelli, you will
reach Piazza del Gesù Nuovo this square
represents the meeting point between
the ancient Greco-Roman"Neapolis," and
medieval Spanish Naples. The piazza takes
its name from the Church of Gesù Nuovo,
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which still has the 15th century façade
of the earlier palazzo of the Sanseverin
on which the area was built. The inside
of the palazzo is an admirable example
of Baroque art, richly decorated with
multicoloured marbles(among these is the
splendid"Cacciata di Eliodoro dal Tempio"
di Francesco Solimena). A few metres
further on is the convent complex of Santa
Chiara, built at the behest of Roberto
d'Angiò and his wife in order to host a
double convent for the Poor Clare nuns and
the Franciscan monks. The church stands
next to the impressive 14th century bell
tower and has a Provencal Gothic style. It
houses the tomb of Roberto d'Angiò and
the funerary monuments of the Neapolitan
nobility of the time. Behind the main altar,
the Choir of the Poor Clare nuns conserves
the remains of frescoes by Giotto and his
school. The ample space of the Chiostro
is marvelously decorated with majolica
tiles, and is a real gem of 18th century
Neapolitan art. The piazza is completed by
Palazzo Morisani and the Palazzo Pignatelli
di Monteleone, which is embellished with
an artistic doorway. At the center of the
piazza the Guglia dell'Immacolata(a spire
built in the first half of the 1700s) stands
out against the sky. Heading back to
Spaccanapoli, you will come across Via
Benedetto Croce, lined with monumental
palazzi, among them Palazzo Filomarino,
which was built in the 14th century and later
redecorated with baroque detail; Palazzo
Venezia from the 1400s, which has also
been renovated; and the Palazzo Carafa
della Spina, recognizable by the lions with
open jaws that decorate the door.
Follow Via B. Croce into Piazza San
Domenico Maggiore and you will be struck
by the Guglia(spire) dedicated to Saint
Dominic Around. The layout of the piazza
revolves around this spire, and it owes its
current design the Aragonese period(15th
century) when it became one of the nerve
centers of the city. The apse in the Basilica
di San Domenico Maggiore is characteristic
of the piazza, with its refined medieval
crenellated tower, but it also has a large
central rose window and a 16th century
marble doorway. Built in 1283 on the site
of a Romanesque church whose structure
of the right hand nave is still conserved, it
holds the tombs of Aragonese sovereigns
and nobility. The main entrance of the
Basilica(with its 14th century wooden
door) is situated in a courtyard and can
be accessed through Vico San Domenico.
The piazza is surrounded by palazzi which
maintain their original structures, such
as Palazzo Casacalenda, and is mostly
known today for the famous patisserie it
houses: the 15th century Palazzo Petrucci,
the Palazzo Corigliano, headquarters of
several departments of the Università
Orientale(University of Eastern Studies),
and the Palazzo Sangro di Sansevero,
built in the first half of the 16th century
and bearing an impressive 18th century
portal. The Cappella di Sansevero, to the
left of the palazzo on Via de Sanctis, has a
collection of wonderful sculptures, amongst
which theCristo Velato is a real 18th century
masterpiece. There are two human corpses
in a cellar of the chapel, the remains of
experiments conducted by the mysterious
prince Raimondo de'Sangro. A slight detour
down the historic Via Mezzocannone leads
into Largo San Giovanni Maggiore where
it is possible to see the marble embroidery
on the stupendous Gothic doorway of the
San Giovanni chapel, the church of San
Giovanni Maggiore, built in the 4th century
on the remains of a temple dedicated to
Hercules, and the Palazzo Giusso del
Galdo, home of the Istituto Universitario
Orientale(Oriental Institute). Turning back to
Piazzetta Nilo, you will enter the area that
was inhabited by Alexandrian merchants,
who erected Statua del Nilo for them to
worship. Tradition has it that this statue
became the"Corpo di Napoli"(body of
Naples). The Chiesa di Sant'Angelo a
Nilo is well worth a visit as it contains
noteworthy examples of Renaissance art.
Via San Biagio dei Librai begins at the end
of the piazzetta; it is a lively, narrow street
filled with artistic treasures. The street is
lined with Renaissance palaces, among
them is Palazzo Carafa Santangelo which
has a terracotta horse head in its courtyard,
the Palazzo Carafa di Montorio where Pope
Paul IV was born, the palazzo del Monte
di Pietà with its splendid chapel annex,
and the Palazzo Marigliano. Amongst the
famous churches are those of Saints Filippo
and Giacomo, San Nicola al Nilo which is
recognizable by the goods of a junk dealer
who has used the places at the sides of the
stairs as storage, and the small church of
San Biagio Maggiore built on what is said
to be the home of San Gennaro. Among
the many shops in the street(birthplace
of Giambattista Vico) is the interesting
doll hospital, which is worth a visit. One
of the Neapolitan's favourite streets cuts
across the"decumano inferiore": the ancient
Via San Gregorio Armeno, where skilled
artisans create nativity scenes. The road
takes its name from the church of San
Gregorio Armeno, built on a Greek temple
that underwent much renovation in the 19th
century. Turning onto Via San Biagio, Via
Duomo pops up ahead of you. In Piazza
Crocelle ai Mannesi, you will find the
church of San Giorgio Maggiore. Not far
from the church, the 15th century Palazzo
Cuomo is home to Prince Filangieri's Civic
Museum. Returning to Via Duomo again,
the Complesso Archeologico Carminiello
ai Mannesi, an archaelogical complex, is
well worth seeing. Spaccanapoli continues
its course, through stalls and vendors, up
Via Vicaria Vecchia, which leads into the old
Jewish quarter, Via Giudecca Vecchia, up
to Forcella where part of the Greek Wall is
visible in Piazza Calenda.
The Decumano Maggiore
The second tour leaves from the Duomo
and ends at Port'Alba, working in the
opposite direction. Numerous side streets
link that follow the ancient"cardines"(streets
heading from north-south) the two tours,
with Via Duomo being one of these main
streets. The Duomo(built in the last few
years of the 13th century), still has an
impressive and beautiful façade and three
15th century doorways. The interior is
richly decorated in a 17th style, but traces
of previous centuries remain and add to
its splendour, the Cappella del Tesoro di
San Gennaro(situated inside the Duomo)
has to be visited. An integral part of the
Duomo is the Basilica di Santa Restituta,
built in the 3rd century, it encapsulates the
Angoino era. From the right hand aisle of
the Basilica, you can access the 5th century
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Battistero di San Giovanni Fonte. In the
sixties, a massive archaeological complex
was discovered under the Cathedral. Here,
it is possible to see layer upon layer of
history, from Greek to Medieval. Via Duomo
is intersected by Via dei Tribunali as it
heads towards Corso Umberto. This was
the ancient decumano maggiore(eastwest roads). Turning right, after a short
walk, you will reach Piazza dei Gerolomini,
distinguished by the presence of the Chiesa
dei Gerolomini, which contains the tomb
of Giambattista Vico. A little further on
is a place that was first known as the
Greek"Agora" and then the Roman"Forum"
in ancient Neapolis, it is now Piazza San
Gaetano. This is where the most important
civil and religious buildings were built. The
Basilica di San Paolo Maggiore and that
of San Lorenzo Maggiore were built on
the ruins. The former was founded in 778
on the remains of the temple of Dioscuri,
and still has precious frescoes and the two
Corinthian columns from the former temple;
the latter was built in the 13th century on
an early Christian, 6th century basilica,
which in turn was built on the area of
themacellum(market). This is a marvellous
opportunity to visit the archaeological
excavations underneath the basilica. The
tour continues along Via Tribunali, amongst
Renaissance constructions such as
Palazzo Spinelli di Laurino or the Palazzo
di Filippo d'Angiò, ending up in Piazza
Miraglia where it meets Via del Sole, where
the Greek"Acropoli" once stood. In the
piazza, on the corner of Via del Sole stands
Cappella Pontano one of the best examples
of Neapolitan Renaissance art. To the right
is the Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore, built
on a former Basilica, which still conserves
the ancient Romanesque bell tower and the
remains of a Roman mosaic. The remains
of a monastery(Chiesa della Croce di
Lucca- demolished to make way for the
old Polytechnic) can be seen in the small
piazza. The Gothic style church of the 14th
century San Pietro a Maiella blocks off
the skyline the square. Past the nearby
Conservatoire stands Piazza Bellini where
a statue dedicated to the great musician
stands in a small area of green, erected
close to remains of the Greek walls. The
piazza is close to Port'Alba, and past here
is Piazza Dante and a new tour!!
From Pizzofalcone to Piazza Dante
In order to better understand the historical
evolution of the city, from its remotest
origins to its domination by the Spaniards,
it is advisable to follow this third tour, which
takes in the site of ancient Parthenope.
The tour begins behind the famous Piazza
del Plebiscito where the streets rise
towards what used to be Mount Echia, now
known as Pizzofalcone. From the terrace
close to Via dell'Egiziaca to Pizzofalcone
it is possible to have an idea of how the
first inhabited center of Naples must have
been, around 7th century BC, when the
Greek colonies of nearby Cuma founded
Parthenope. From above, you catch
sight of lo Scoglio di Megaride, where
legend has it that the body of the siren
Partenope was washed ashore and that
here her body was buried and revered
by the first"Neapolitans." Parthenope
took the name of Palepolis(old city) when
Neapolis(New city) was founded, but
unfortunately, nothing remains of the city,
and the only testimonies to its existence
are those that come from the"necropolis"
discovered in Via Nicotera. In the piazzale,
in front of the 16th century Palazzo Carafa
Sanseverino, remains are still visible of a
construction built in the 1st century BC,
which could be the remains of the Villa
belonging to Lucullus which stretched out
to the islet of Megaride and on which was
built the Benedictine monastery, which
was then transformed into the nucleus
of Castel dell'Ovo built in the beginning
of the 1100s by the Normans. In Via
Monte di Dio stands Palazzo Serra di
Cassano built in 1700, it has a spectacular
stairway that leads to thepiano nobile. The
churches of Santa Maria degli Angeli and
Santa Maria Egiziaca a Pizzofalcone are
interesting. At the foot of Pizzofalcone is
the splendid Piazza del Plebiscito walled
in by a grandiose portico of Basilica di
San Francesco di Paola on the west side
constructed in the early part of 19th century.
Opposite the basilica is the 17th century
façade of Palazzo Reale. Palazzo Salerno
and the Prefecture complete the piazza.
In the center of the piazza stand two
equestrian monuments dedicated to the
Bourbon kings Ferdinand I and Charles
III. Piazza Trieste and Trento is next to
the piazza with its wonderful fountain"del
Carciofo"(artichoke fountain) and one of
the most historic cafés: Gambrinus. In
the piazza stands the baroque Chiesa di
San Ferdinando in front of this stands the
Palazzo Vicereale. From Via San Carlo
one will find the main entrance to Galleria
Umberto I and Teatro San Carlo. Via Toledo
also starts from the piazza: it is still the
most important street in the city, built
according to the wishes of Viceroy Pedro
da Toledo in 1536. Along the street there
are elegant palazzi, once residences of the
nobility and many churches in a distinctly
baroque style. One of these, Santa Brigida,
has precious paintings by Luca Giordano.
Continuing on past monumental palazzi,
bank headquarters and elegant shop
windows, you reach the corner of Via
Diaz and the Madonna delle Grazie from
the 17th century. Not far, in the area of
Montecalvario, stand the church of Santa
Maria della Concezione(17th century) and
the church of Montecalvario(16th century).
Just past Piazza Carità is the church of
San Nicola, which has various treasures of
17th century Neapolitan paintings, including
works by Francesco Solimena. From
Piazza Carità, turning onto Via Morgantini,
you will reach Piazza Monteoliveto,
adorned with one of the most important
fountains in the city, built in 1668 in honour
of the Infant king Carlo II of Spain. In the
piazza is the Church of Sant'Anna dei
Lombardi built at the beginning of 1411,
which houses elegant tombs and is a
wonderful example of Renaissance Art.
The altar relief of the Cappella Correale
di Benedetto da Maiano is an outstanding
piece as is the Gruppo della Pietà by Guido
Mazzoni. There is also an admirable 17th
century organ. The piazza is completed by
the famous 16th century Palazzo Gravina,
which is now a university faculty. Returning
to Via Toledo and Via Sant'Anna, you will
find the Chiesa dello Spirito Santo, further
on is Piazza Dante one of the most vital
parts of the city; as well as the statue
to the great poet, there is the important
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façade of the Foro Carolino, designed by
Luigi Vanvitelli in 1757 and decorated by
26 statues portraying the virtues of King
Charles of Bourbon, Palazzo Bagnara and
the often mentioned Port'Alba.
The façade of the Museo Archeologico
Nazionale is to be found in Via Pessina(not
far from Piazza Dante), the museum has
works of art of international importance,
from excavations of Pompeii and
Herculaneum; the Egyptian section is also
well worth a look. If you want to continue
exploring the city, then you can continue
along Piazza Cavour and Via Foria, up
to Piazza Carlo III. By making small
detours on this route, you will find other
important places and monuments such
as Via Costantinopoli, home to important
monumental churches and the Academy
of Fine Arts, Porta San Gennaro, Porta
Capuana, Castel Capuano, Botanical
Gardens and Palazzo Fuga which are
nearby.
Napoli Sotterranea
Naples has been developed in an area
where primordial volcanoes have deposited
sediment, which then solidified into light,
malleable yet resistant, rock – good building
material and easy to excavate. Settlers,
from the Greeks onwards, tended to use
this material, and the oldest western
aqueducts were dug from it, grottoes and
large catacombs like underground basilicas.
Under the palazzi in the historic center, the
ancient cisterns and the narrow canals of
the Acquedotto della Bolla were enlarged
and deepened to dig out the tufa necessary
for the raising of the palazzi. In this way, the
surface of Naples has left its imprint deep
within itself.
It is possible to visit underground Naples
today, accompanied by groups of
speleologists on simple yet evocative
excursions amongst the galleries and
tunnels of the old acqueducts which link
the city to the water supplies. One of the
entrances is under the Basilica di San
Paolo where one can visit the underground
city that stretches to San Gregorio Armeno.
The other entrance is at Sant'Anna di
Palazzo in the Spanish Quarter, where a
steep spiral staircase leads on to a tour
that winds along to the zone of Chiaia, in
the dark which is only split by the lamplight
of the guides, among narrow tunnels,
spacious cisterns and enormous caverns
that were used as air raid shelters during
the Second World War.
Il Lungomare e Posillipo From Piazza
del Plebiscito, turn right after Palazzo
Salerno, and you will enter Via Cesario
Console which leads down to the sea and
crosses Via S. Lucia after a while. The
main road, ran next to the modest homes
of the fishermen, it was modernized and
widened in the 17th century and became
one of the busiest and most pleasant roads
in Naples. Almost immediately to the left
is the small church of S. Lucia a Mare,
because the shore rose from here. Inside
the church is the revered, wooden statue
of Santa Lucia. The road ends with the
Fontana dell'Immacolatella situated in
one of the most picturesque points of the
city and dating back to the beginning of
the 17th century. The fountain leads you
onto Via Partenope. This street links the
dock of Borgo Marinaro with the massive
port of Castel dell'Ovo, one of the most
distinctive places in the city. Santa Lucia
also leads to Via Chiatamone, which was
full of prehistoric grottoes, and which also
leads to Piazza dei Martiri, one of the
most elegant Piazzas with its monument
to those who gave their lives in all the
wars. Returning to the sea, you will reach
Piazza della Vittoria where it is possible
to visit the 17th century church of Santa
Maria della Vittoria. Almost half of one
side of the promenade is dominated by the
Town Hall and its park, rich with its trees
that are centuries old, its monuments and
fountains from various periods of history.
The villa also has 19th century buildings,
among them the Chiosco della Musica,
the Palazzetto del Circolo della Stampa
and the Stazione Zoologica founded in
1872 by the naturalist, Antonio Dohrn and
it also includes the oldest Acquarium in
Europe. The Villa ends in Piazza della
Repubblica, which has the Monumento
allo Scugnizzo in the center. Along the
elegant Riviera di Chiaia, you will find the
Neo-Classical Villa Pignatelli surrounded
by a beautiful park, the Museo Principe di
Aragona Pignatelli Cortes can be found
inside the Villa. Piazza della Repubblica
leads to Mergellina, the tourist port of the
city, there is a beautiful fountain(in Piazza
Sannazzaro), which pays homage to the
myth of the Siren, Partenope. The church of
Santa Maria di Piedigrotta is reached from
Piazza Sannazzaro, and it is the center of
all the most famous popular festivals. It is
said that the Tomb of Virgil lies behind the
church, in a park at the foot of the hill of
Posillipo, close to the Cripta Neapolitana,
in an ancient Roman Columbarium. The
tomb of Leopardi lies in the same park.
Returning towards the sea, passing the
Lion fountain(which stands in the piazzetta
of the same name) we reach the church of
Santa Maria del Parto, it was built in 1449:
it stands out because of it unusual pictorial
decorations of pagan themes requested by
Sannazzaro. These decorations surround
Sannazzaro's tomb. At the end of Via
Caracciolo in Largo Sermoneta is the 17th
century Fontana del Sebeto.
The walk continues up the picturesque Via
Posillipo and ends in the Via Marechiaro,
this leads to the district of the same name,
which was the setting for the famous
Neapolitan song"fenestella."
Outside the City
Classic Journeys offers a guided tour of
Naples and the Amalfi coast.
©
Travel Tips
Getting There
Air
The Aeroporto Capodichino, Naples
International Airport,(NAP)(+39 848 888
777;+39 081 789 6259;http://www.gesac.it/
en/) provides service to Naples and is the
gateway to Southern Italy. Airline carriers
include:
Alitalia(+39 848 865641/ http://
www.alitalia.com/) Air France(+39 848
884466/ http://www.airfrance.com/)
BMI Baby(+44 870 126 6726/ http://
www.bmibaby.com/) British Airways(+39
116
199 712266/ http://www.ba.com/)
Condor( +1 800 524 6975/ http://
www7.condor.com/) Easy Jet( +33( 0)8
25 08 25 08/ http://www.easyjet.com/)
Hapag-Lloyd Express( +180
509 3 509/ http://www.hlx.com/)
Helvetic.com(+39 02 69682684/
http://www.helvetic.com/) Iberworld
Airlines( http://www.iberworld.com/)
Lufthansa(+39 199 400044/ http://
www.lufthansa.com/) Meridiana(+39
199 111333/ http://www.meridiana.it/)
MyAir.com(+39 899 500060/ http://
www.gesac.it/it/links/myair.html/)
My Travel( +870 238 7710/ http://
www.mytravel.com/) Sky Europe(+421 2
4850 1111/ http://www.skyeurope.com/
in.php/)
Biglietteria(+39 081 562 5036;+39 081
606 8011) Napoli Centrale- Ferrovie dello
Stato(+39 1478 88088;http://www.fs-online.com/) s.e.p.s.a. cumana(+39 081
7354310)
0812 395 010;http://www.uniplan.it/sita/)
CTP(Compagnia Transporti Pubblici)(+39
081700111;http://www.ctpn.it/) Curreri(+39
0818015420) FBN(+39 0824320764)
GTI(+39 0825204250)
Sea
By Light Rail(Urban Lines):
Autorita' Portvale(+39 081 207505)
Linea Lauro(+39 081 761 1004;http://
www.Lauro.it/) Siremar(+39 081 251
4721;http://www.caremar.it/siremar.html/)
Stazione Marittama(+39 081 251 4711)
Tirrenia Navigazione(+39 081 251
4711;http://www.tirrenia.it/) Caremar(+39
081 251 4711;http://www.caremar.it/
caremar.html/) Metro del Mare(http://
www.metrodelmare.com/) LMP(+39 081
552 7209) SNAV(+39 081 761 2348)
A.N.M. Funicolari(+39 081 763 2177;http://
www.anm.it/) Ferrovia dello StatoMetropolitana(+39 147 888 088;http://
www.fs-online.it/)
©
From the Airport
Car
Shuttle: Alibus Shuttle Bus departs every
10 min. from the Naples International
Airport and runs from 6:30a-11:30p.
Although it is not recommended to drive
within the city of Naples due to horrible
traffic conditions, driving there is an easy
task. Take the Rome-Naples autostrada(A2)
through Caserta 29km(18 miles) north
of Naples or take the Naples-Reggio
di Calabria autostrada(A3) that passes
Salerno, 53km(33 miles) north of Naples.
Taxi: Travel by taxi is problematic at best
due to incredibly high fares, reckless
driving, and horrible traffic conditions. It is
not a recommended form of transportation,
but if you are going to take one, confirm
that it is an authorized service. They are
easily located outside the terminals.
Radio Taxi Napoli Radio Taxi Napoli Taxi
Taxi
Car Rentals: Although travel in Naples is
synonymous with Vespas, you cannot rent
one in the city because they are the main
targets of thieves and their principal mode
of transportation. It is not recommended to
drive a rental car in Naples.
Train
For general rail information call:(+39
892021). Ferrovie dello Stato(+39 081
200931) is the national train transportation
in Italy. Other companies include:
Trenitalia(http://www.trenitalia.com/)
Cirumvesuviana(+39 081 7722 111;http://
www.vesuviana.it/) Alifana(+39 081
455 228;http://www.alifana.it/) Dirigente
Fun Facts
Naples Region: Campania State/
Province: Naples Country Italy
Naples by the Numbers:
Population: 975,000(city); 3
million(metropolitan)
Elevation: 88 m/ 289 ft
Average Annual Precipitation: 94.5 cm/ 37.2
in
Average Jan. Temperature: 9°C/ 48°F
Average July Temperature: 24.5°C/ 76°F
Getting Around
Quick Facts:
Public Transport
Major Industries: iron, steel, petroleum,
textiles, food products, chemicals,
electronics, porcelain ware, machinery
Naples has a vast system of public
transportation and the most extensive of
these is the ANM bus(Azienda napolitana
mobilità;+39 081 763 2177/ http://
www.anm.it/) which covers all of the city
as well as a few local suburbs. Tickets can
be purchased attabacchi or newsstands
throughout the city. The Funicular(tram) No.
1 and 4 run between the 2 main stations
in Italy: the Stazione Central and the
Stazione Mergellina. For tram information
call Funicular Central(+39 800 5688 66).
EUR1.10 gets you a 90-minute bus ride or
you can also use it on the local trams and
subways. Other bus companies include:
Sepsa(+39 081 735 4111;http://
www.albert.net/sepsa/) Sita Spa(+39
Time Zone: GMT+1
Area Code: 81
Did You Know?
Originally founded by Greeks in 600 BC,
Naples was conquered by the Romans
in 4th century BC; in the 8th century AD,
Naples became an independent duchy and
capital of the Naples kingdom.
The city is the home to pizza and claims to
be the only place that serves"real pizza".
©
117
Florence Snapshot
Local Info
Its art and architecture is what sets
Florence apart from other cities in Italy.
From theDuomo to thePonte Vecchio
toSan Miniato, there is so much to see and
explore. Each neighborhood has something
to show off. Santa Croce's trademark is
its leather shops, while San Frediano has
a ton of unique artisan shops that have
been operating for centuries. Campo di
Marte, meanwhile, is all about viola, the
color of the Fiorentina football(soccer)
team. But it is the city's marketplaces that
really showcase the hustle and bustle of
daily life. There are markets all over the
city in every neighborhood. Each having
their own personality and locals that have
been coming for many years. The one
thing that is great about Florence is that
you can easily get lost and end up finding a
treasure. There are always little streets that
nobody ever sees and shops that are kept a
secret. Explore the city because there is so
much more to see than the Ponte Vecchio.
Enjoy the traditions of the Fiorentini, such
as having a caffe at the bar around 11am
when Piazza Repubblica is bustling. On
Sundays, take a stroll through the center
and window shop. On Saturday, shop
at the local markets and enjoy chatter
of Italian in your ear. Florence's main
attractions consists of the Duomo, Ponte
Vecchio and theUffizi Gallery. During
the high season these places are filled
with visitors and sometimes it takes a
while to see. Plan ahead and enjoy these
attractions in a calm and timely matter so
not to rush your visit.
Florence is known for it's secrets and little
treasures that are found throughout the
city. For example, have you ever noticed
the tiny wine doors in the walls of the
Palazzo's? These wine doors were made
for the rich to sell their wine to the peasants
on the streets of Florence. When the local
wealthy families had excess wine from
the harvest they would sell it out of these
windows. What you would do is knock on
the door and slide the money in as they
opened it. Then the person behind the door
will then fill a glass of wine to go. Some
of the windows around the center still are
in it's authentic wooden structure others
have been boarded up. Another fact about
Florence, if you look around in the center
of Florence, at all the big Palazzo's and
smaller buildings as well. You will notice
some of the windows that are missing.
The whole frame of the window is there but
the window is missing. Italians were taxed
higher when they had so many windows.
So they filled in each window that they
didn't want to pay an extra tax on.
The most famous landmarks in Florence
are the Ponte Vecchio(Old Bridge), Il
Duomo and The Uffizi Gallery. The Ponte
Vecchio is the oldest bridge in Florence,
that currently has gold and silver shop
aligning the bridge. Previously housing
butchers, the Ponte Vecchio holds onto the
tradition of gold and silver shops making it
a very posh street to purchase your goods
on. Il Duomo(Santa Maria del Fiore) is
what brings flocks of people to Florence
every year. The gothic style church was
begun in 1296 with the design from Arnolfo
di Cambio and the dome was completed in
1436 by Filippo Brunelleschi. The church
has one of Giorgio Vasari's famous fresco
which covers the inside of the dome.
The Uffizi Gallery is yet another attraction
most visitors look to visit when arriving in
Florence. From Da Vinci to Caravaggio,
you have a pick of the great works of the
Renaissance period.
San Giovanni(Duomo)
San Giovanni takes its name from San
Giovanni Battista(St John the Baptist),
patron saint of Florence, in whose
honor the Baptistery was built. The
historic city center(centro storico) is
most representative of Florence. The
layout of the district follows a road
system created by the Romans(known
as thecardus anddecumanus system).
In thecentro storico, you will see the
enormous, imposing structure of the
cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore, referred to
mostly commonly as the Duomo(from the
Latindomus, meaning house of God), with
its cupola designed by Filippo Brunelleschi,
a beautiful dome that adds splendor to the
city skyline. The city has also preserved
its medieval network of streets, lined with
regular, geometric Renaissance palaces
such as the Palazzo Strozzi and Palazzo
Medici-Riccardi, which once belonged to
Florence's powerful, oligarchic families.
Florence is divided into five districts and
the center is divided into four sections(San
Giovanni, Santa Croce, Santa Maria
Novella and Santo Spirito). The university
and the Tribunale di Firenze(which is
housed in the Complesso di San Filippo
Neri) are also in this district.
Santa Maria Novella
Named after the Santa Maria Novella
Basilica- a Dominican basilica and
important cultural center during the Middle
Ages, the district of Santa Maria Novella
covers the area west of the train station
where a majority of affordable hotels and
the city's largest park is located. The train
station of the same name(designed in
1932 by the young architect Giovanni
Michelucci) is also situated nearby. Not
far from the station is the Fortezza da
Basso, a former stronghold of the city which
is now used as an important center for
conferences, conventions and exhibitions.
The zone is also home to the Parco delle
Cascine, one of the city's green oases. In
this district also lies exclusive boutiques
that are concentrated in a few of the
most well-known streets, such as via de'
Tornabuoni and via della Vigna Nuova. Via
de' Tornabuoni is famous for being home
to some of Italy's most prestigious designer
boutiques e.g. Versace and the Florentine
Salvatore Ferragamo.
Santa Croce
Santa Croce is named after Santa Croce
church, a medieval Franciscan basilica.
The National Central Library(Biblioteca
Nazionale Centrale di Firenze) is also
located here.
Santo Spirito(Oltrarno)
The entire stretch of the side of the river
opposite the majority of the city's tourist
attractions, the Oltrarno is home to many
locals, small eateries and amazing tourist
sights such as San Frediano to San
Niccolò. At its heart is probably one of the
most incredible Renaissance churches and
piazzas: the Piazza Santo Spirito, which
has retained much of its historic charm
and is filled with workshops of the city's
traditional artisans. This piazza is the place
for parties on summer evenings, bringing
together young Florentines and foreigners,
many of whom live in this area. The
Palazzo Pitti with its old Medicean garden
and the Boboli Garden, are both in Oltrarno.
The famous Piazzale Michelangelo(with
its panoramic view) is also in this district.
From here, it is possible to see one of the
few remaining stretches of medieval wall
118
Florence Snapshot continued
around the Belvedere that was spared from
demolition in the 19th Century. Included in
this is the lovely medieval gate of the Porta
Romana.
Campo di Marte& Fiesole
The Campo di Marte is located outside of
what used to the be the medieval city wall
and is home to many historical buildings
dating back to the early 20th Century, as
well as to many modern stone and cement
apartment blocks which were built after
World War Two. There are also numerous
sports venues, athletic facilities and the
Stadio Artemio Franchi, Fiesole, and the
Bellariva zone are close by; these are
swathes of Piagentina countryside that
always induced feelings of nostalgia in
Tuscan painters.
Gavinana& Galluzzo
Gavinana and Galluzzo are south of the
Arno and lead to the well-known Chianti
wine region. On the southwestern side
lies Galluzzo, famous for its Carthusian
monastery.
Isolotto& Legnaia
Combining areas of the city that were
developed during the 1960s and 1970s(and
are still expanding!), Isolotto and Legnaia
are home to commuters and enormous
American hotel chains. The Isolotto district
was once the scene of various clashes and
social unrest during the 1960s.
Rifredi
Rifredi in the northwestern part of the city
where, by the 15th Century, the Medici had
already constructed some of their many
country villas, among which Villa di Careggi,
the villas of Castello and La Petraia in
the Castello. In this district there are also
several industrialized, residential zones,
such as Novoli, Firenze Nova, Brozzi,
Le Piagge and l'Olmatello. Brozzi, the
zone is host to many Chinese and African
immigrants. The influx of immigrants means
that even a city like Florence cannot live
forever in the past but must create a new
multi-ethnic history.
© NileGuide
History
The history of Florence stretches back
as far as the 8th Century BCE when a
primitive settlement lived in the valley,
close to the Arno."Florentia" is recorded
as an official Roman colony in 59 BCE
and was designed according to the typical
Roman road system, which can be seen
in many Italian cities today. There are two
principal roads: thecardus descends from
the Baptistery to Via Roma and continues
on to Via Calimala, while thedecumanus
stretches from via del Corso to via degli
Speziali until it reaches via degli Strozzi.
The Forum(public meeting place and
market) was built at the point where the
roads meet, on what is now the Piazza
della Repubblica. During Roman rule,
Florence was the most important city in
Roman Tuscany.
Florentia was invaded by numerous tribes
in the following centuries: Goths,"Silicone",
Ostrogoths and Longobards. Many
inhabitants adopted Christianity at the
time of the Silicone, and the first churches
appeared outside the Roman walls of
Florentia: San Lorenzo and Santa Felicita
were built during the 4th Century CE and
can be visited today.
Charlemagne's arrival put an end to the
colony's expansion. Buildings were still
constructed however, and the Baptistery
dates back to this time. The city flourished
in the 9th and 10th Centuries, a great deal
of money was spent on the construction
of many religious buildings, e.g. the
Badia Fiorentina. Many public works were
undertaken, including the building of the city
walls in 1078. Florentia was a cultural and
economic success!
Florence's wealth and power grew at
an enormous pace; a second set of
city walls had to be built; the district of
Oltrarno became part of the city and
Romanesque-style architecture ruled(e.g.
San Miniato and Santi Apostoli churches).
Florentine craftsmen became involved
in textiles(beginning with the trading of
wool and silk), which lead to gradual
urbanization. Political tension began to
rear its ugly head in the 13th Century as
two political factions(the Guelphs and the
Ghibellines) fought for power. At the end
of the 13th Century, there was something
of a cultural revolution. A major player in
this revolution was the architect Arnolfo
di Cambio who designed the Palazzo dei
Priori(which became the Palazzo della
Signoria a century later and then the
Palazzo Vecchio) and also started work
on the reconstruction of Santa Maria del
Fiore, which was completed in successive
centuries. Arnolfo also continued with the
construction of the third and final set of city
walls.
The city was devastated by plague in 1348,
and political conflicts were still rife. The
Ciompi Revolt of 1378 occurred as a result
of the people's frustration—the poor reacted
against their unjust governor. Meanwhile,
Florentine merchants and bankers were
already working hard to increase their
wealth in order to attain power over the
nobility.
Lorenzo de'Medici played an important
role in Florence's history; he strengthened
the political interests of the nobility, while
dedicating himself to his love of the Arts
and philosophy. The city underwent a
cultural rebirth. After Lorenzo's death
in 1492, the city came under the harsh,
puritanical rule of the fanatical Dominican
friar, Girolamo Savonarola, who was
elected to the leadership of the Republic.
He was so unpopular for his preachings
that he was burned at the stake six years
later by angry citizens. The leadership of
the city was unstable for several years
after that with the arrival of French troops
under King Charles VIII, but the de'Medici
clan regained power and Florence had
her first Duke in 1530, and then Grand
Duke in 1569. The succession of the Grand
Dukes of the Medici family continued
until the end of the 18th century, but
Florence gradually lost the central role
it had occupied in preceding centuries.
The last heir of the Medici's handed over
power and all the family's riches to the
House of Lorena, whose rule continued
until 1859, when Florence was united
with the rest of Italy(which later became
the Kingdom of Italy). Florence was
only the capital of this kingdom for a few
years(1865-1871) and the court transferred
its official residence to the Palazzo Pitti.
A lot of urban design and restructure took
place during the 19th century, including the
construction of embankments along the
Arno and piazzas in the centre of the new
districts of Barbano and Mattonaia(which
are now Piazza dell'Indipendenza and
Piazza D'Azeglio). The"arnolfiane" wall
and the Jewish Ghetto(which was situated
in the current location of the Piazza della
Repubblica) demolished to make way for a
series of ring roads which were to lead to
the Piazzale Michelangelo and the Piazza
della Repubblica.
World War Two had a devastating effect
on Florence. The city sustained many
119
damages, especially to its bridges and the
area inside the Ponte Vecchio. The flood of
1966 further hindered the preservation of
valuable Florentine treasures, resulting in
a restoration process that will be on-going
well into the 21st and 22nd Centuries.
© NileGuide
Hotel Insights
Italians say that it will certainly take you
more than a day to drink in the beauty of
Florence, you will need to stay for at least a
long or extended weekend. It is also true to
say that it can be a problem to find a room
in Florence, especially if you decide to visit
on the spur of the moment. To save yourself
unwanted trauma, it is always best to book
in advance. Florence is always popular with
tourists and often the more cost-effective
hotels are full in November. You will also
find that hotel prices are high even during
low season.
of the long list of hotels that will welcome
you and treat you well, as you enjoy your
trip to this beautiful city.
San Giovanni(Duomo)& San Marco
For comfort and elegance near San Marco,
try the Hotel Regency in Piazza Massimo
D'Azeglio, a pleasant, peaceful piazza.
Many fantastic four star hotels are also
scattered throughout the district, the
pick of the bunch are: the Grand Hotel
Baglioni, which is conveniently located
between the Piazza della Stazione and
the Duomo, this hotel has a stupendous
terrace view. Il Brunelleschi, housed in the
splendid, Byzantine Pagliazza tower, was
a female prison during the Middle Ages. Il
Calzaiuoli is also situated in a prime spot,
between Piazza del Duomo and Piazza
della Signoria. The Hotel Loggiato dei
Serviti and Le Due Fontane are to be found
in the setting of the Piazza Santissima
Annunziata.
If you decide to drive to Florence, take
note that the municipal police will not allow
you to enter the city unless you have a
hotel booking or unless you need to unload
your luggage. If you must use a car, it is
important to stay at a hotel that has parking.
Santo Spirito(Oltrarno)
Santa Maria Novella
You can also find a wide choice of threestar establishments along the banks of the
Lungarni in this district, these are a little
further out of town, but you can easily reach
thecentro on foot within a matter of minutes:
such as the Hotel Columbus.
Many of the city's hotels are located in this
centrally-located district; close to the train
station and all the tourist attractions. If you
want to stay near the splendor of the Santa
Maria Novella, then try Hotel Aprile. Five
star hotels are sprinkled throughout the
city and some of the best of these hotels
include: the Grand Hotel and the Westin
Excelsior,(both are in piazza d'Ognissanti)
these are the places where the VIPs and
politicians stay when they come to visit
the city. The Villa Medici has an enticing
swimming pool, and is close to the Piazza
della Repubblica, as is the Helvetia&
Bristol. The Croce di Malta faces the
Piazza Santa Maria Novella. The Astoria
Palazzo Gaddi is inside a beautiful palazzo
which has glorious ceilings decorated
with frescoes. If you arrive in Florence by
train, you will find many hotels around the
Stazione Santa Maria Novella that are
either two or three star. Via Panzani(leading
to Piazza del Duomo) and Via Nazionale,
have a wide choice of reasonably priced
hotels, many of these are family run
establishments, housed in historic palazzi.
The Annabella and the Nizza are only a few
Perhaps you would like a view of the Arno?
Lungarno has been recently renovated and
faces the river.
Campo di Marte& Fiesole
Novoli
If you are coming to Florence for business
rather than pleasure, you may find it easier
to stay near to the airport or the main
motorways. In the north of the city, you'll
find the Hotel Alexander and the Hotel
Fleming.
Gavinana& Galluzzo
If you want to lose yourself in the midst
of the city and be immersed in the green
of Viale dei Colli, then the Grand Hotel
Villa Cora is ideal, you can take a dip in
the pleasant pool, or you can try the four
star hotel, Relais Certosa in Certosa del
Galluzzo, with its own splendid tennis
courts(should you fancy a little exercise).
On the outskirts of the south the Holiday Inn
Garden Court and the Sheraton beckon. If
looking for a view of the Arno, then the Park
Palace is for you.
© NileGuide
Tuscan cuisine, and Florentine food
in particular is essentially based on
simple, natural ingredients. It hails from
the traditions of peasant food and is
wholesome and tasty.
Extra-virgin olive oil is held in pride of
place in Florence, and it is never missing
from the Florentine table. Olive oil from
Tuscany is cold-pressed, green and
pungent orpizzichino(sometimes with a
slightly bitter after-taste) and is eaten within
a year and a half of harvesting the olives.
Olive oil is used as a dip for foods such
as celery, artichokes andpinzimonio(a
selection of fresh vegetables). It is also
used in cooking, and as a condiment for
salads and deliciousbruschette. Amongst
the bruschette there is one that is king, and
must be tasted to be believed! It is made
with red cabbage and beans and then
seasoned with ground pepper and Frantoio
oil.
If you want to indulge in Florentine bread
you should remember that in general,
bread in Tuscany does not use salt.
Tryschiacciata if you want a more flavorful
bread—this is a crusty focaccia salted and
drizzled with olive oil. A typical Florentine
antipasto dish is a recipe calledcrostini di
fegato, pieces of Florentine bread which
have been baked and dunked in soup,
and then garnished with chicken liver pâté,
capers and anchovies.
Another traditional Florentine specialty is
the famousbistecca alla fiorentina. The
steak comes from Chianina, a region near
Tuscany which produces the Chianina
breed, regarded as possibly the oldest
breed of cattle in the world. It is thick cut,
weighs not less than 800g, cooked on the
grill, served rare and, on occasion, with a
wedge of lemon on the side. AFiorentina
can satisfy two people, but there are those
brave enough who will attempt to eat one
all by themselves!
The soups andminestre are well worth
trying and they are derived from peasant
traditions. The most delicious, famous
Florentine soup isribollita, made with
a mixture of stale bread, beans,cavolo
nero(a black cabbage grown in Tuscany,
120
similar to kale or Swiss Chard) and other
typical Tuscan vegetables.Ribollita derives
its curious name from the fact that the
peasant women would usually cook the
soup in large quantities that would be
boiled repeatedly(ribollita), and then
eaten for several days. As with many
leftovers,ribollita always tastes better the
day after! Other delicious soups arepappa
con il pomodoro(a tomato-based soup
that's thickened with bread) andminestra
di farro(spelt or barley soup with beans,
tomatoes, celery and carrot). While
some of these soups might not sound
terribly appealing to your palate, they are
absolutely delicious, simple and hearty.
Do you have a sweet tooth?Schiacciata
alla Fiorentina is a special Florentine treat:
an orange-flavored sponge cake, covered
with confectioner's sugar(often with a
cocoagiglio, or lily- the symbol of Florence
—sprinkled onto the center) and filled
with pastry or whipped cream. Although
typically served around Carnevale, it can
be found at Florence's pastry shops year
round.Cantuccini di Prato are dry almond
biscuits that are dipped in Vin Santo, a
sweet, aromatic dessert wine.
Tuscan Specialties These specialties
can be found in the majority of Florence's
restaurants. Some of the more famous,
traditional restaurants include: Il Latini,
Trattoria Mario, Coco Lezzone and La
Casalinga, there are also many others, so
don't feel dismayed if you don't get into the
places above.
Haute Cuisine If you fancy something
more"refined", or if you want to celebrate
a really special occasion, then it is worth
spending that little bit extra and going
to Enoteca Pinchiorri, or Il Cibreo, you
could also try Cammillo, although you will
definitely need to book in advance.
Wine Bars There are also manyenoteche
or wine bars in Florence: here you can
drop in, relax and have a glass or two of
good Chianti with a sandwich. In the most
elegant places e.g. Enoteca de' Giraldi
and Enoteca"La Sosta del Rossellino", you
can try delicious wines accompanied by
tasty bruschette and delicate appetizers. La
Barrique wine bar is also very popular and
has an extensive wine list.
Pizza Italy is famous for its pizza and
pizzerias can be found in almost every nook
and cranny of Florence, although getting
a typical Neapolitan-style pizza might be
a bit of a challenge: Florentine crusts tend
to be thin and crispy, cooked in a woodfueled oven. If you prefer the"traditional"
Neapolitan pizza, it is almost always
possible to ask for a pizza withdoppia
pasta(double crust), which means you'll get
a softer, thicker crust. Try Ciro& Sons for a
slice of Naples in Florence.
International Cuisine Recent years have
seen a big growth in the amount of ethnic
restaurants, ranging from the Chinese
restaurants to Mexican(Cafè Caracol),
from Indian(Ashoka or Ristorante India), to
Japanese(Momoyama) and there are also
many other restaurants in various areas of
the city.
Vegetarian Vegetarian cuisine has also
made an impression on Florence! Ruth's
is next to the Synagogue and sells Kosher,
vegetarian fare. Il Vegetariano serves
wonderful meat-free and organic dishes
and is a huge success in the city.
© NileGuide
Nightlife Insights
Although Florence is quite a small city,
it is inundated with visitors, ex-pats and
students; this is great news if want to have
an evening of raucous fun, or if you prefer
to follow more cultural pursuits. Visitors
and Florentines alike are impressed by the
wealth of entertainment that they find on
offer here.
Cinema
Going to the cinema has become an
increasingly popular pastime since the
mid-1990s, and the number of cinemas
has increased to meet the needs of the
people in Florence; many of the city's
multiplexes have been renovated and
reopened. This change in the amount of
cinemas that exist has created a climate
of “non-stop cinematography" and fewer
cinemas close down during the summer
months. Florentine cinemas are very
varied; there are modern one-screen
halls, massive multiplexes and small
independent cinemas. The Cecchi Gori
Group owns the most cinemas in the city
and the majority show general releases
and(dubbed) American blockbusters,
although the Atelier group makes sure
that Art house theatre is kept alive. Atelier
have six cinemas that show good quality
independent films and directors and actors
will often attend previews and answer
audience questions. On Wednesdays,
prices are reduced and many Florentines
go to the movies. However, one of the best
times to go to the cinema is during the
summer; between the months of June and
September: you can watch a new release
or one of the previous winter's"smashes" in
the open air, as you sit beneath the stars.
Some of the"normal" cinemas will remain
open; many of these have air-conditioning,
which is a great way to avoid the humidity
of a Florentine summer, not to mention
all the mosquitoes! One cinema in the
historic center, the Odeon, caters to the
international community showing films
primarily in English, and sometimes the
occasional French or Spanish-language
cinematic phenomenon on Mondays,
Tuesdays and Thursdays.
Theatre
Although there are many more cinemas,
compared with the amount of theatres,
it is unfair to say that Florence favors
the"Big Screen" to the stage. The Florentine
theatrical tradition has always been
noteworthy, for example, the famous
Maggio Musicale Fiorentino attracts
many well-known people. The range of
productions is very varied too, there are
upbeat comedies by Neil Simon at Teatro
della Pergola, or more provocative, thought
provoking dramas such asA Streetcar
Named Desire at the Teatro Manzoni. If
Shakespeare is more your thing, then the
Metastasio Theatre will meet your highbrow
needs!
Cafés, Bars& Pubs
In Florence(and everywhere else) most
people want to go out and stay out until
late at the weekend; this city has a large
number of bars and discos, which people
can enjoy any day of the week. For a quiet
evening, drinking and chatting late into
the night, why not try Caffè Pitti in Piazza
Pitti, or Hemingway close to Santa Maria
del Carmine. At il Genius you can relax
with friends and play board/card games.
Zoe, Dolce Vita and Porfirio Rubirosa
are a little more crowded and lively, while
Cafè Caracol has a Latina vibe. If you are
more of a wine lover, then try Pitti Gola or
Cantina. Maybe you fancy a pint? Both
The William and Chequers are British in
style,(perhaps to meet the needs of the
many ex-pats who make their home here!)
They sell an infinite number of beers, and
snacks accompanied by good music and
121
are populated by Florentine beer lovers and
foreigners alike. Clubs
Lots of tourists like to check out the clubs
and discos when they are on holiday.
Florence offers a great variety of nightspots,
it is possible to choose from mainstream
discos such as Meccanò, where you might
meet a VIP or two), and the fabulously
cheesy Andromeda, or more specialist rock
bars such as Tenax(popular with many
young Italians) and the Auditorium Flog.
There are many nightclubs(especially
during the summer) with theme nights,
where people can dance, listen to music
and chat. These include Pongo, which is
close to Teatro Verdi and il Lidò on the
banks of the Arno, which attracts at least
half of the city.
As you can see, Florence has much to
attract the cultivated wine drinker, the
cinephile or the perpetual party boy/
girl.Divertitevi!
© NileGuide
Piazza del Duomo is a great place to start
a tour that will uncover some of Florence's
historical beauty. Not only is the piazza rich
in history, but it's an architectural delight
too. One of the first sights you will see is
the Battistero di San Giovanni, dedicated
to St John the Baptist and one of the oldest
buildings in the city. It was constructed
in its current form in the 11th Century.
Besides the beautiful interior which is richly
decorated with mosaics, there are glorious
medieval and Renaissance bronze doors by
Andrea Pisano and Lorenzo Ghiberti. The
pair of doors designed by Ghiberti that the
public sees on the Baptistery are replicas
and the originals are located nearby at the
Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. The museum
is situated on the piazza, behind the apse
of the cathedral. Amongst other things, it
contains precious sculptures as well as
exhibits connected to the buildings that are
dotted around the piazza.
In front of the Baptistery is Santa Maria del
Fiore, which was built by Arnolfo di Cambio
in 1296 to replace the old Santa Reparata
cathedral. The archaeological remains of
this cathedral are in the basement of the
present church. Di Cambio's building was
only completed 150 years later with the
addition of the enormous cupola(dome) that
sits above the church's transept. Filippo
Brunelleschi, a truly gifted Renaissance
architect designed the dome. It is possible
to reach the top of the cupola(access is on
the right hand side of the church), which is
107m from ground level but there is no lift
so you will have to climb over 450 steps.
It is definitely worth climbing the steps, not
just for the beautiful view that awaits you at
the top, but also so that you can begin to
appreciate the mastery of Brunelleschi, as
the cupola is truly an extraordinary feat of
architecture.
The interior of the cathedral itself is also
well worth visiting, even though at times
there can be a queue. Amongst other
things, you will be able to see the frescoes
beneath the cupola, painted in the second
half of the sixteenth century by Vasari and
Zucchari. The frescoes cover an area of
around 3600m2 and represent theLast
Judgment. It is also worth taking a look
at the Sacristy where Lorenzo de'Medici
sought refuge during the Pazzi conspiracy
when his brother Giuliano was killed in the
cathedral in 1478. Here you will also see
the lined marquetries created by a group
of artists including Giuliano and Benedetto
da Maiano. There are two frescoes on the
right of the nave as you turn towards the
exit:Giovanni Acuto(Sir John Hawkwood) by
Paolo Uccello andNiccolò da Tolentino by
Andrea del Castagno.
As you leave the cathedral, you will see the
Campanile di Giotto. Giotto, the renowned
Medieval artist himself began work on
the tower prior to his death in the 14th
Century. In this case too, a climb to the
top is recommended—but take care if you
suffer from vertigo!
Walk down Via Calzaiuoli—along which
you will find hundreds of shops selling all
manner of goods—and in a few minutes,
you will reach the Piazza della Signoria,
the political center of Florence. The focal
point of the piazza is the imposing Palazzo
Vecchio(also known as the Palazzo della
Signoria). This palace once housed the
government of the city of Florence and
has been enlarged several times over the
centuries. Arnolfo di Cambio(the same
architect who designed the cathedral),
created the palazzo in 1294. The section
that is not dedicated to the museum retains
its function as the offices of the Town
Council. The second internal courtyard
houses the only public baths in the city
center.
On the Piazza della Signoria, you'll come
across the Loggia dei Lanzi, originally a
public meeting place which is now an openair museum where you can view several
sculptures by Giambologna(Rape of the
Sabines) and Baccio Bandinelli(Hercules
and Cacus). Besides this, there is also
the ManneristFountain of Neptune
by Bartolomeo Ammannati and the
equestrian monument toCosimo I, by
Giambologna. There is a 19th-century copy
of Michelangelo's magnificentDavid too,
which stands in front of the palace gates.
At this point you have a choice. You can
either visit the Galleria degli Uffizi(probably
one of the most important art collections
in the world), which is only a short walk
from the piazza, or, weather permitting,
relax at an open-air café, e.g. the Rivoire(a
popular choice), which is famous for its hot
chocolate with cream—absolute bliss!
Medici Residences You can begin your
visit with what was the residence of the
Medici family, from Cosimo il Vecchio until
the Grand Duke Cosimo I: Palazzo MediciRiccardi in Via Larga, now known as Via
Cavour. The palace was comissioned by
Cosimo il Vecchio, designed by famed
architect Michelozzo in 1444 and finally
enlarged by the Riccardi family when
they took over ownership of the palace.
Today it is seat of Florence's Prefettura and
official offices of the province of Florence.
From the interior courtyard, it is possible
to visit the Cappella dei Magi(Chapel of
the Magi), frescoed by Benozzo Gozzoli
and magnificently restored for the 1992
anniversary of the death of Lorenzo de'
Medici. Throughout the fresco there are
numerous portraits of major Florentine
figures of the time as well as members
of the Medici family. Some of the famous
faces include leaders of the Eastern
Orthodox church and John VII Palaiologos,
Byzantine Emperor, both figures present
in the city during the Council of 1439. In
the palace there is also the Biblioteca
Riccardiana, with an entrance on via
dei Ginori 10, which features one of the
greatest library collections in the city with
manuscripts purchased from Riccardo
Riccardi and it has been open to the public
since the early 18th Century. The library
is adorned with sculpted interiors of the
1700s.
Around the corner from the Palazzo Medici
is the Chiesa di San Lorenzo, one of
122
Florence's ancient churches, rebuilt in
the 1500s by Filippo Brunelleschi and his
architectural team. One of the true Medici
churches, it contains the tombs of many
of their famous family members, from
Giovanni di Averardo and his wife Piccarda
Bueri, in the Sagrestia Vecchia, to Cosimo
il Vecchio, whose tomb is found in the
crypt, directly beneath the church's high
altar. In the Sagrestia Nuova, a work of
Michelangel, we find on one side the tombs
of Lorenzo il Magnifico, and his younger
brother Giuliano who was murdered in
the Pazzi Conspiracy in 1478, and on the
other the tombs of Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino
and Giuliano, Duke of Nemours. In the
adjacent Cappella dei Principi(Chapel of the
Princes), an opulent 17th-century design,
we find several tombs of Medici Dukes and
their wives.
Next to the church are the numerous stands
of the San Lorenzo Market where you can
buy clothing(new and used), shoes and
other trinkets that are great gifts for friends
and family. If you're looking for local food
products, the nearby Mercato Centrale,
Florence's largest market, you can find
everything from fruit and vegetables to
meat and fish, at affordable prices. While
you're there, why not try a lampredotto
sandwich, a Florentine specialty that not all
foreigners are willing to taste.
Returning to the via Cavour and following it
upwards, you arrive at piazza San Marco,
where the Church of San Marco is found.
The historic monastery previously belonged
to the Sylvestrines and in 1418 was handed
over to the Dominicans. Thanks to the
financing of Cosimo il Vecchio, the church
and monastery were able to enlarge.
While at the church, you simply can't miss
the Museum of San Marco that includes
part o the Dominican monastery where Fra'
Giovanni da Fiesole(perhaps better known
as Fra' Angelico, Antonino Pierozzi(bishop
and Florentine saint), Girolamo Savonarola,
and in most recent times Giorgio La Pira,
the unforgettable mayor of Florence.
A suggested starting point on the tour
of the church museum if the Cloister of
Sant'Antonino, and then from the Sala
Capitolare where Fra' Angelico frescoed
one of his masterpieces, theCruxifiction. On
the first floor of the monastery, spread out
through three corridors that open onto the
monks' cells, all decorated with frescoes
with religious scenes entirely done by Fra'
Angelo and his workshop. This is, without
a doubt, one of the most interesting and
emotional parts of the complex.
Not fear from the piazza is the Accademia
di Belle Arti where the small off-shoot
building of the Galleria dell'Accademia, in
which, among the many works of art, is the
original copy of theDavid by Michelangelo
as well as other works by this well-known
Florentine artist, such as thePrisoners. This
museum contains four of the statues that
were originally designed for the final resting
place of Pope Julius II(a Medici); however,
it was never realized.
Given the pretense of several offices
of the university, particularly in via degli
Alfani, there are many bakeries, small
grocery stores and bars where you can
getschiacciatine(a foccaccia-like bread
with salt, olive oil and sometimes peppers,
olives and other savory treats on top,
sandwiches, or coldprimi at affordable
prices. This also means that you can find
sit-down places that don't overcharge if
you don't take your meal or coffee at the
bar. This zone is also characterized by
the presence of specialized libraries, copy
shops and printing offices.
From the piazza San Marco, you can easily
arrive in under a couple minutes to the
piazza della Santissima Annunziata, with
the Basilica Mariana della Santissima
Annunziata, and on the right side, the
colonade designed by Filippo Brunelleschi
for the Ospedale degli Innocenti, a true
masterpiece of Renaissance architecture.
At this point, you ought to be tired, and if
you decide to head down the via dei Servi,
towards the Duomo whose magnificent
cupola is visible from the middle of the
piazza, or turn down the via della Colonna
and arrive at the Archaeological Museum,
to appreciate and superb Etruscan and
Egyptian artifacts.
Oltrarno Towards the Ponte Vecchio,
characterized by the numerous jewelry
shops, which originally butcher and leather
makers that lined the river, and in crossing
this famous bridge you arrive in an area
known as the Oltrarno. The area is more
formally known as Santo Spirito and today
has unique artistic characteristics that
distinct it from other parts of the city. During
the summer, it is not difficult to find locals
sitting on chairs in front of their apartment
buildings, chatting and discussing the
day's events. This has always been an
area where many artists have lived and
worked, something that is still quite visible
today with the numerous restoration and art
studios that line the streets.
Shortly after crossing the bridge, on the
left there is the Chiesa di Santa Felicita,
Florence's oldest church, restored in the
18th Century. Up a bit further is the large
piazza on an incline which leads to the
entrance of the Palazzo Pitti, originally a
residence of the Pitti family who went broke
constructing and decorating it to outdo the
Medici...who eventually purchased it in
1565 to save Luca Pitti from impending
debt. Today the palazzo houses five
museums, but if you don't want to stay
cooped up indoors and the weather permits
it, it is strongly suggested that you visit the
Boboli Gardens, which is easily accessible
from the palace's courtyard. The extensive
gardens go from the hills to the Forte
Belvedere, a fortress of the city; however, if
you can't make it to the top, a walk amongst
the trees and sit on the benches to enjoy
the beauty of the gardens.
Following these suggestions, just
outside the piazza Pitti is the splendid
via Maggio(previously known as the via
Maggiore), lined with gorgeous 16thcentury palaces that belonged to Florence's
most noted families, not to mention all
the lovely antique shops that are on both
sides of the road. Shopping here is really
élite, reserved for those who can afford
to buy an expensive villa or an expensive
Renaissance-era piece of furniture. There
are also more affordable shops in the area
where you can find items to bring home as
souvenirs.
Walking down these narrow streets that
characterize this area you will inevitably
find yourself in front of the Chiesa di Santo
Spirito, Brunelleschi's last architectural
triumph. In front of the church, every
morning, there are different markets, and
once a month there is an antiques markettruly an event to not miss out on. There
are plenty of choices for dining in this area:
bakeries, grocery shops, but also small,
family-run trattorie with homemade meals
and outstanding menus at affordable prices.
By this point, if you aren't already
exhausted, you can take the main street
back towards the Chiesa di Santa Maria
del Carmine, even if it's just to see
the chapel of Felice Brancacci that he
commissioned from Masaccio in the 1420s.
The frescoes are truly a masterpiece of
123
Early Renaissance art, works not to miss.
The entrance to the chapel. The entrance
to the chapel is from the piazza, on the right
side of the church.
© NileGuide
Travel Tips
Getting There
By Air
Florence's Amerigo Vespucci
Airport(+39 055 373 3498/ http://
www.aeroporto.firenze.it/) is just six miles
northwest of downtown, but handles a
limited number of airlines. It has recently
been renovated to accommodate more
passengers and more airlines. They
include:
Air France( +1 800 871 1366/ http://
www.airfrance.com/) Alitalia( +1 800
223 5730/ http://www.alitalia.com/)
Austrian Airlines(+1 800 843 0002/
http://www.aua.com/) Belle Air( +355
42 40 194/ http://www.belleair.al/)
Brussels Airlines(+1 516 740 5200/ http://
www.brusselsairlines.com/) Carpatair(+44
208 602 7077/ http://www.carpatair.ro/)
Continental( +1 800 231 0856/ http://
www.continental.com/) Flybaboo( http://
www.flybaboo.com/) KLM( +1 800 374
7747/ http://www.klm.nl/) Lufthansa( +1
800 645 3880/ http://www.lufthansa.com/)
Meridiana(+39 0789 52682/ http://
www.meridiana.it/) Sterling Airlines( +44
0870 787 8038/ http://www.sterling.dk/)
Swiss Airways( +1 877 359 7947/ http://
www.swiss.com/)
From the Airport
Bus: ATAF(+39 055 56 501/ http://
www.ataf.net/) provides bus service every
30 minutes between 6a-11:30p. The
ride takes about 20 minutes, depositing
passengers at the Santa Maria Novella Rail
Station. Cost: EUR4.50.
Taxis: Taxis can be found just outside the
arrival terminal. Rides to downtown last
15-20 minutes and cost approximately EUR
20-30.
Rental Cars: There are several rental
dealers at the airport with offices in the
downtown area near Santa Maria Novella
train station.
Avis(+1 800 831 2847/ http://
www.avis.com/) Hertz(+1 800 654 3131/
http://www.hertz.com/) Europcar(+39 041
541 5654/ http://www.europcar.com/)
National(+1 800 227 7368/ http://
www.nationalcar.com/)
By Train
Ferrovie Dello Stato, or FS(http://
www.trenitalia.it/), the Italian state railway,
enjoys a sound reputation for efficiency.
Since Florence is on the main Rome-Milan
Line, riders are offered a variety of daily
options, including Intercity trains(IC), known
for their express service. Santa Maria
Novella, the city's main train station located
in the north end of Florence, handles most
of the rail traffic. Rifredi, a much smaller
station, offers a limited number of rail
choices.
By Bus
Lazzi Eurolines(+39 055 363 041) handles
international travel connecting Florence
with major European cities such as
Brussels, Barcelona, Paris and Prague.
Its station is located adjacent to the Santa
Maria Novella train station. Domestic travel
is provided by SITA(+39 055 294 9555/
http://www.sita-on-line.it/) to locations such
as Lucca, Volterra, Pisa, Siena, Empoli and
more.
By Car
Autostrada 1(A1), Italy's major highway,
juts into Florence from Bologna from the
north, and continues south to Rome.
E76 connects Florence with Pisa and the
Ligurian Sea to the west.
Getting Around
The Azienda Transporti Area Florentina, or
ATAF(+39 055 56501/ http://www.ataf.net/),
manages Florence's bus transportation. It
services all the major tourist attractions,
operating between 5a-1:30a. Fares: 70minute ticket EUR 1.20; one-day ticket
EUR 5; three-day ticket EUR 12; seven-day
ticket EUR 22.
Taxi
Taxis can easily be hailed at stands found
at hotels and major squares throughout the
city. A minimum fare starts at EUR 4.
Cars
Cars are not recommended. Most of
Florence's narrow streets are limited
to locals with properly marked vehicles
and filled with locals zooming around on
scooters. And if you dare to drive you will
quickly learn that the Renaissance never
gave thought to parking.
Walking
Walking rates as the best means for
negotiating Florence's narrow maze of
cobblestone alleys and streets. Downtown
is very compact with most of the major
tourist attractions located within several
blocks of each other. Be sure, however, to
carry a map.
Motorini
Mopeds, if anything, will make you look
like a local. Riders must be 18 and helmets
are mandatory. Alinari(+39 055 280
500), Maxirent(+39 055 265 420), and
Massimo(+39 055 573 689) are good rental
sources. Expect to pay around EUR 30 per
day.
Flying Into Pisa(PSA)
Pisa's Galileo Galilei(+39 050 849 300/
http://www.pisa-airport.com/)(PSA) is
the larger of the two airports that service
Tuscany, but is situated 58 miles west of
Florence. Major airlines include:
Air France( +1 800 871 1366/ http://
www.airfrance.com/) Alitalia( +1 800
223 5730/ http://www.alitalia.com/)
British Airways( +1 800 247 9297/ http://
www.ba.com/) Continental(+1 800 525
0280/ http://www.continental.com/)
Delta( +1 800 221 1212/ http://
www.delta.com/) easyJet( +44 870
600 0000/ http://www.easyjet.com/)
Lufthansa( +1 800 645 3880/ http://
www.lufthansa.com/) RyanAir( http://
www.ryanair.com/) Sky Europe(+421 2
4850 4850/ http://www2.skyeurope.com/)
TUI(+49 511 2200 4713/ http://
www.tuifly.com/) United( +1 800 538 2929/
http://www.united.com/) US Airways( +1
800 622 1015/ http://www.usairways.com/)
Trains& Coaches from Pisa to Florence
Riding the train is a good travel option
to Florence. The Pisa Aeroporto station
provides a train about one every hour
between 6:30a-10:30p. Rides last an hour
and a half. One-way fare: EUR 5.40.
A new coach service from Pisa to
Florence is offered by Terravision(http://
www.terravision.eu/florence_pisa.html/),
with trips taking just 70-80 minutes and
costs EUR 8 one-way.
Rental Cars: Avis(+1 800 831 2847/
http://www.avis.com/) Hertz(+1 800
124
654 3131/ http://www.hertz.com/)
Europcar(+39 041 541 5654/ http://
www.europcar.com/) Thrifty(+1 800 367
2277/ http://www.thrifty.com/)
The drive to Florence on the E76 takes
about 45 minutes.
© NileGuide
Fun Facts
1.Weird Fact: Florence streets can be one
name at one end of the street and another
name at the other end. For example,
Via Martelli is the street leading away
from Piazza del Duomo then at the first
intersection it turns into Via Cavour.
2.Fun Fact: Florence is the capital city of
the province of Florence and the Italian
region of Tuscany.
3.Interesting Fact:Via Chiantigianais the
most beautiful road in all of Italy. Winding
through the vineyards and woodlands
surrounding Florence connecting to Siena.
4.Weird Fact: Fiascois an Italian word
referring to a glass bottle or flask with
a long neck. According to the Oxford
English dictionaryfiasco--meaning a
failure or complete breakdown--comes
from the Italian expressionfare fiasco,
to make a bottle. Nobody knows how
this Italian expression came to be in the
English language. Today, old trattorie are
still calledfiaschetteria--working men's
taverns. Back in the day was known
as taverns with hearty, cheap Tuscan
wines and later for a more homey Tuscan
specialities that paired with the wines.
5.Fun Fact: How do the Italiansreallyeat
pasta? The correct technique involves
piercing some pasta near the edge of the
bowl, not in the center but at the twelve
o'clock position, then twirling the pasta
around the fork against the rim of the bowl.
6.Historical Fact:In 1339, Florence became
the first city in Europe with paved streets.
7.Random Fact:Florence was home to
the infamousMedicifamily from the 14th
century to the 18th century.Leonardo da
Vinci,Niccolo Machievelli,Galileo Galilei,
Amerigo Vespucci, Donatello, Raffaele,
Roberto Cavalli, and Guccio Gucci,fashion
designer andGuccifashion was founded in
Florence 1921.
8.Historical Fact:The Grand Duchy of
Tuscany was the first state to abolish
capital punishment in November 1786.
9.Interesting Fact:Florence has had two
floods; one on November 4, 1333 and
November 4, 1966.
10.Fun Fact:What would come to be
thought of as Italian was first formalized in
the first years of the 14th century through
the works of Dante Alighieri, who mixed
southern Italian languages, especially
Sicilian, with his native Florentine in his
epic poems known collectively as theDivine
Comedy. Dante's much-loved works were
read throughout Italy and his written dialect
became the standard that all educated
Italians could understand. Dante is still
credited with standardizing the Italian
language and, thus, the dialect of Florence
became the basis for what would become
the official language of Italy.
11.Historical Fact:Florence Nightingale,
famous for revolutionizing the field of
nursing, was named for the city of her birth.
12.Fun Fact:Florence is best known for
leather and gold
© NileGuide
125
Monaco Cedex Snapshot
Local Info
Introduction
954km(593 miles) S of Paris; 18km(11
miles) E of Nice
The outspoken Katharine Hepburn once
called Monaco"a pimple on the chin of the
south of France." She wasn't referring to
the principality's lack of beauty, but rather
to the preposterous idea of having a little
country, a feudal anomaly, taking up some
of the Riviera's best coastline. Hemmed
in by France on three sides and facing
the Mediterranean, tiny Monaco staunchly
maintains its independence. Even Charles
de Gaulle couldn't force the late Prince
Rainier to do away with his tax-free policy.
As almost everybody in an overburdened
world knows by now, the Monégasques
do not pay taxes. Nearly all their country's
revenue comes from tourism and gambling.
Monaco-- or rather, its capital of Monte
Carlo-- has for a century been a symbol of
glamour. Its legend was further enhanced
by the 1956 marriage of the man who
was at that time the world's most eligible
bachelor, Prince Rainier III, to the American
actress Grace Kelly. Ms. Kelly met the
prince when she was in Cannes for the
film festival to promoteTo Catch a Thief,
the Hitchcock movie she made with Cary
Grant. A journalist friend arranged aParis
Match photo shoot with the prince-- and
the rest is history. The Monégasques
welcomed the birth of daughter Caroline
in 1957 but went wild at the birth of Albert,
a male heir, in 1958. According to a 1918
treaty, Monaco will become an autonomous
state under French protection if the ruling
dynasty becomes extinct. However, the
fact that Albert is still a bachelor has the
entire principality concerned. The third royal
daughter, Stephanie, was born in 1965.
Though not always happy in her role,
Princess Grace won the respect and
adoration of her people. In 1982, a sports
car she was driving, with her daughter
Stephanie as a passenger(not as the
driver, as was viciously rumored), plunged
over a cliff, killing Grace but only injuring
Stephanie. The Monégasques still mourn
her death.
Monaco became a property of the Grimaldi
clan, a Genoese family, as early as 1297.
With shifting loyalties, it has maintained
something resembling independence ever
since. In a fit of impatience the French
annexed it in 1793, but the ruling family
recovered it in 1814; however, the prince at
that time couldn't bear to tear himself away
from the pleasures of Paris for"dreary old
Monaco."
Nightlife Insights
Nightlife
Casinos
Sun Casino, in the Monte Carlo
Grand Hôtel, 12 av. des Spélugues(tel.
93-50-65-00), is a huge room filled with
one-armed bandits. It also features
blackjack, craps, and American roulette.
Additional slot machines are on the
roof, with a wide view of the sea. Slot
machines operate daily 11am to 4am, and
gaming tables are open daily 5pm to 4am.
Admission is free.
François Blanc developed the Monte-Carlo
Casino, place du Casino(tel. 92-16-21-21),
into the most famous in the world, attracting
the exiled aristocracy of Russia, Sarah
Bernhardt, Mata Hari, King Farouk, and
Aly Khan. The architect of Paris's Opéra
Garnier, Charles Garnier, built the oldest
part of the casino, and it remains an
example of the 19th century's most opulent
architecture. The building encompasses the
casino and other areas for different kinds of
entertainment, including a theater(Opéra de
Monte-Carlo) presenting opera and ballet.
Baccarat, roulette, and chemin de fer are
the most popular games, though you can
playle craps and blackjack as well.
The casino's Salle Américaine, containing
only slot machines, opens at 2pm Monday
to Friday, noon on weekends. Doors for
roulette andtrente et quarante open at
the same time. A section for roulette and
chemin de fer opens at 3pm. Additional
rooms open at 4pm with more roulette,
craps, and blackjack. The gambling
continues until very late or early, depending
on the crowd. The casino classifies
its"private rooms" as the more demure,
nonelectronic areas without slots. To enter
the casino, you must show a passport or
other photo ID, and be at least 18. After
9pm, the staff will insist that men wear
jackets and neckties for entrance to the
private rooms.
Also on the premises is a Cabaret,
in the Casino Gardens, where a wellrehearsed orchestra plays before the
show. A performance featuring feathers,
glitter, jazz dance, ballet, and Riviera-style
seminudity begins at 10:30pm Wednesday
to Saturday mid-September through June.
For reservations, call tel. 92-16-36-36.
Entrance to the cabaret costs 67€($87) and
includes one drink and dinner.
The Opéra de Monte-Carlo is
headquartered in the lavish, recently
renovated Belle Epoque Salle Garnier of
the casino. Tickets to the operas and other
events scheduled inside range from 30€ to
110€($39-$143). Tickets to events within
the Salle Garnier are available from a kiosk
in the Atrium du Casino(tel. 98-06-28-28;
www.opera.mc), located within the casino;
tickets can be purchased Tuesday through
Saturday from 10am to 5:30pm.
The Salle du Canton, Les Terrasses,
avenue de Fontvieille(tel. 92-16-22-99 for
tickets and information), which filled in for
the Salle Garnier during renovations, now
hosts smaller concerts, chamber music
concerts, and some ballet. At the Grimaldi
Forum, 10 av. Princesse-Grace(tel.
99-99-30-00 for tickets and information;
www.grimaldiforum.com), chamber music
and smaller orchestral pieces are usually
performed. At both the Salle du Canton and
the Grimaldi Forum, ballet tickets cost 8€ to
26€($10-$34); concert tickets cost 15€ to
30€($20-$39); and opera tickets cost 40€ to
150€($52-$195).
If tickets are hard to come by, ask your
hotel concierge for assistance.
Dancing& Drinking
The Legend, 3 av. des Spélugues(tel.
93-50-53-13), is a favorite of the 25- to
126
Monaco Cedex Snapshot continued
30-year-old crowd who like a glamorous
modern setting. It's open Thursday to
Sunday 11:30pm to dawn. Entrance is
free. The wildest night is Saturday, when
it's mobbed. At Le Living Room(tel.
93-50-80-31), 7 av. des Spélugues, crowds
are international and dance oriented.
It's open every night from 10:30pm until
dawn. Cozy and comfortable, it's a bit
more formal and sedate than The Legend,
attracting patrons over 35. There's no
cover. Two nearly neighboring piano bars
are Le Sass-Café, 5 av. des Spélugues(tel.
93-25-52-00), and the Zebra Square Café,
10 av. des Spélugues(tel. 99-99-25-50).
Drink prices start at around 8€($10). Toniest
of all, and under the same management
as the Hôtel de Paris, is Jimmy's, in the
Sporting d'Eté, avenue Princesse-Grace(tel.
92-16-22-77), open nightly 11pm to 5am.
Le Karement, in the Grimaldi Forum(tel.
99-99-20-20; www.karement.mc) is
sprawling, ultracontemporary, and bigger
than any nightlife venue ever before seen
in Monte Carlo. It boasts two bars inside, a
third bar on an outdoor terrace, a sprawling
bay window that encompasses a view
of the sea, and the kind of house and
garage music that the young and youngat-heart clientele can really dance to. Open
Thursday to Saturday year-round 10pm
to 4am(often later, if business allows), its
cover is 20€($26) and includes your first
drink.
Monaco has a large gay and lesbian
population and attracts many gay visitors,
but does not have any specific gay or
lesbian bars. If you want to sample
exclusive gay life, take the fast train to Nice
for the night.
Attractions
The second-smallest state in
Europe(Vatican City is the tiniest), Monaco
consists of four parts. The old town,
Monaco-Ville, on a promontory,"The Rock,"
60m(200 ft.) high, is the seat of the royal
palace and government building, as well
as the Oceanographic Museum. To the
west, La Condamine, the home of the
Monégasques, is at the foot of the old
town, forming its harbor and port sector. Up
from the port(walking is steep in Monaco)
is Monte Carlo, once the playground of
European royalty and still the center for the
wintering wealthy, the setting for the casino,
gardens, and deluxe hotels. The fourth part,
Fontvieille, is a neat industrial suburb.
Ironically, Monte-Carlo Beach, at the
far frontier, is on French soil. It attracts
a chic crowd, including movie stars in
scanty bikinis and thongs. The resort has a
freshwater pool, an artificial beach, and a
sea-bathing establishment.
No one used to go to Monaco in summer,
but now that has totally changed-- in fact,
July and August tend to be so crowded that
it's hard to get a room. Furthermore, with
the decline of royalty and multimillionaires,
Monaco is developing a broader base of
tourism(you can stay here moderately-- but
it's misleading to suggest that you can stay
cheaply). The Monégasques very frankly
court the affluent visitor. And at the casinos
here, you can also lose your shirt."Suicide
Terrace" at the casino, though not used
as frequently as in the old days, is still a
real temptation to many who have foolishly
gambled away family fortunes.
Life still focuses on the Monte-Carlo
Casino, which has been the subject of
countless legends and the setting for many
films(remember poor Lucy Ricardo and the
chip she found lying on the casino floor?).
Depending on the era, you might have seen
Mata Hari shooting a tsarist colonel with a
jewel-encrusted revolver when he tried to
slip his hand inside her bra to discover her
secrets-- military, not mammary. The late
King Farouk, known as"The Swine," used to
devour as many as eight roast guinea hens
and 50 oysters before losing thousands
at the table. Richard Burton presented
Elizabeth Taylor with the obscenely huge
Koh-i-noor diamond here. Surrounded by
cultivated gardens, the casino stands on
a panoramic terrace, offering one of the
grandest views along the entire Riviera.
Shopping
Bijoux Marlene, Les Galeries du
Métropole, 207 av. des Spélugues(tel.
93-50-17-57), sells only imitation
gemstones. They're shamelessly copied
from the real McCoys sold by Cartier and
Van Cleef& Arpels. Made in Italy of goldplated silver, the jewelry(the staff refers to
it as Les Bijoux Fantaisies) costs 10€ to
1,000€($13-$1,300) per piece.
Boutique du Rocher, 1 av. de la
Madone(tel. 93-30-91-17), is the larger
of two boutiques Princess Grace opened
in 1966 as the official retail outlets of her
charitable foundation. The organization
merchandises Monégasque and Provençal
handicrafts. A short walk from place du
Casino, the shop sells carved frames
for pictures or mirrors; housewares; gift
items crafted from porcelain, textiles,
and wood; and toys and dolls. On the
premises are workshops where artisans
produce the goods. The second branch is
at 25 rue Emile de Loth, Monaco-Ville(tel.
93-30-33-99).
Argument, 17 bd. des Moulins(tel.
93-50-33-85), aims at a solid middlebracket man who simply wants to dress
appropriately and look good. You can pick
up a swimsuit, shorts, slacks, a blazer, and
a pair of socks to replace the ones you
ruined on too many walking tours, at prices
that won't require that you remortgage your
house.
If you insist on ultrafancy stores, you'll find
them cheek by jowl with the Hôtel de Paris
and the casino, lining the streets leading to
the Hôtel Hermitage, and across from the
gardens at the minimall Park Palace. Allée
Serge-Diaghilev is just that, an alley, but a
very tiny one filled with designer shops.
You don't have to be Princess Caroline
to shop in Monaco, especially now with
FNAC(tel. 93-10-81-81) in the heart of
town. A branch of the big French chain
that sells CDs, tapes, and books, it's at
the Galeries du Métropole, 17 av. des
Spélugues, in the Jardins du Casino, next
to the Hôtel Métropole and across from the
casino.
The Galeries du Métropole also has a few
specialty shops worth visiting. Check out
Geneviève Lethu(tel. 93-50-09-41) for
colorful and country tabletop accessories;
or Manufacture de Monaco(tel.
127
93-50-64-63; www.mdpm.com) for glorious
bone china and elegant tabletop items.
If the prices make you want to take to
your bed, two doors away is a branch of
the chic but often affordable French linen
house Yves Delorme(tel. 93-50-08-70).
Royal Food(tel. 93-15-05-04) is a gourmet
grocery store down a set of curving stairs
hidden in the side entrance of the mall; here
you can buy food from France, Lebanon,
and the United States, or stock up forle
pique-nique or for day trips. This market is
open Monday to Saturday 10am to 7:30pm.
For real-people shopping, stroll rue
Grimaldi, the principality's most
commercial street, near the fruit, flower,
and food market; and boulevard des
Moulins, closer to the casino, where you'll
see glamorous boutiques. Rue PrincesseCaroline is a pedestrian thoroughfare with
shops less forbiddingly chic than those
along boulevard des Moulins, and it's
loaded with bakeries, flower shops, and
the closest thing you'll find to funkiness in
Monaco. Also check out the Formule 1
shop, 15 rue Grimaldi(tel. 93-15-92-44),
where everything from racing helmets to
specialty key chains and T-shirts celebrates
the roaring, high-octane racing machines.
No one comes to the Riviera for bargain
shopping but, even in chic Monte Carlo,
try Stock Griffe, 5 bis av. St-Michel(tel.
93-50-86-06). It slashes prices on Prada,
Pucci, Escada, and the like. A tremendous
amount of merchandise is packed into
these tiny precincts. The place may be
small, but not the discounts, some of which
add up to an astonishing 90%. Greater
reductions are for older garments that didn't
move, but you can also snap up some
newer fashions.
Markets
For a look at the heart and soul of the real
Monaco, head to place des Armes for the
fruit, flower, and food market, which
starts daily at 7:30am. The indoor and
outdoor market has a fountain, cafes, and
hand-painted vegetable tiles beneath your
feet. The outdoor market packs up at noon,
and some dealers at the indoor market
stay open to 2pm. If you prefer bric-a-brac,
a small but funky(especially for Monaco)
flea market, Les Puces de Fontvieille, is
open on Saturdays 9:30am to 5:30pm on
the Quai Jean-Charles Rey, immediately
adjacent to Port de Fontvieille.
Travel Tips
Planning a Trip
Getting There
Monaco has rail, bus, and highway
connections from other coastal cities,
especially Nice. Trains arrive every 30
minutes from Cannes, Nice, Menton, and
Antibes. For rail information, call tel. 36-35,
or visit www.voyages-sncf.com. Monaco's
railway station(Gare SNCF) is on avenue
Prince Pierre. It's a long walk uphill from the
train station to Monte Carlo. If you'd rather
take a taxi but can't find one at the station,
call tel. 93-15-01-01. You will face no border
formalities when entering Monaco from
mainland France.
In late 1999, Monaco opened an enormous
train station.4km(1/4 mile) east of the old
station. This station has three exits on
three levels, and if you don't know which
exit to use, you might have trouble finding
your hotel. Monaco is a confusing place to
navigate, so you might want to pick up a
free map at the station's tourist office(daily
June-Sept 8:30am-7:30pm). Arriving at
the Monaco train station after 9pm is like
arriving on Wall Street after 9pm-- it's
desolate, without a soul on the street. On
the bright side, Monaco restaurants serve
dinner late, so you can usually get a full
meal at least until 11pm.
Frequent bus service(every 15 min.) runs
to Nice, Beaulieu, and Menton on line no.
100 of the French bus company Rapides
Côte d'Azur(tel. 04-93-85-64-44). The trip
from Nice to Monaco by bus takes a halfhour and costs 2.60€($3.40) round-trip or
1.30€($1.70) one-way. The times and prices
are the same to Menton. The easiest place
to catch a bus is in front of the gardens that
face the Casino, but it also stops in front
of the port(on bd. Albert-1er at the Stade
Nautique stop) and at several other spots
around town.
If you're driving from Nice to Monaco, take
N7 northeast. The 19km(12-mile) drive
takes about 35 minutes because of heavy
traffic; Cannes to Monaco requires about
55 minutes. If driving from Paris, follow A6
to Lyon. In Lyon, take A7 south to Aix-enProvence and A6 to Monaco.
Visitor Information
The Direction du Tourisme et des
Congrés office is at 2A bd. des
Moulins(tel. 92-16-61-66; fax 92-16-61-16;
www.monaco-tourisme.com).
Getting Around
The best way to get around Monaco is
by bus(www.cam.mc), and you can buy
bus cards, which cost 1.80€($2.35) per
ride, directly on the bus. Bus stops are set
up every few blocks on the main streets
in town, including boulevard Albert-1er,
avenue St-Martin in Monaco Ville, and
boulevard des Moulins in Monte Carlo.
Buses go to all the major tourist sights;
just look at the front of the bus to see the
destination.
For a taxi, call tel. 93-15-01-01. Taxi stands
are in front of the Casino on avenue de
Monte-Carlo, at place des Moulins in Monte
Carlo; at the Port de Monaco on avenue
Président J. F. Kennedy; and in front of the
Poste de Monte-Carlo on avenue HenryDunant. A Hertz car rental office is at
27 bd. Albert-1er(tel. 93-50-79-60), and
an Avis office at 1 av. des Guelphs(tel.
97-97-18-55).
Special Events
Two of the most-watched car-racing
events in Europe are in January(Le
Rallye) and May(the Grand Prix;
www.monacograndprix.info). For more
information, call tel. 99-99-30-00. In
June, Monte Carlo is home to a weeklong
convention that attracts media moguls
from virtually everywhere, Le Festival
International de la Télévision, Grimaldi
Forum, Avenue Princess Grace(tel.
99-99-30-00). Shows from all over the world
are broadcast and judged on their merits.
Tips-- Number, Please: Monaco's
Telephone System
Since 1996, Monaco's phone system has
been independent of France.
128
To call Monaco from within France and
the European Union, dial 00(the access
code for all international long-distance calls
from France), followed by the country
code( 377), then the eight-digit local phone
number.(Don't dial the 33 code; that's the
country code for France.)
To call Monaco from North America, dial the
international access code, 011, the country
code, 377, then the eight-digit Monaco
number.
To call any other country from within
Monaco, dial 00(the international access
code), then the applicable country code,
and the number. For example, to call
Cannes, you would dial 00, 33(France's
country code), 4(the city code, without the
zero), and the eight-digit number.
129
Pisa Snapshot
Local Info
If you've already made up your mind to go
to Pisa to see the Leaning Tower, don't.
That is, don't limit yourself-- although you
must certainly begin your tour with the
landmark feature that has made this city
in Tuscany, Italy famous. But after this,
there are other sights worth exploring in this
highly artistic town. Pisa is small, safe and
very walkable, so it's easy to explore the
sights along the Piazza dei Miracoli as well
as the north and south sides of the Arno
River.
Sights
Don't just take a picture of the Leaning
Tower-- climb it. Now that it is open to the
public again after extensive reconstruction
to keep it from leaning further and toppling
over, visitors can climb up its 300 steps and
get great views of the city from the top. The
Duomo di Pisa with its bronze doors and
biblical scenes and the Battistero with its
cool acoustics that echo around the interior
are also noteworthy attractions. The oldest
botanical gardens in Europe, the Orto
Botanico di Pisa, are also close by. While
a cemetery is not exactly on any tourist's
itinerary, do make time for Campo Santo
Monumentale. With its haunting frescoes
and ancient sarcophagi, this is a resting
place unlike any other. Art lovers can
further explore the unique works exhibited
at the Museo del Opera del Duomo and
the Museuo delle Sinopie. There are also
other attractions in the riverside streets of
the Lungarni. These include the Piazza
Garibaldi, Piazza XX Settembre, the Museo
di San Matteo and the Giardino Scotto.
Restaurants
Pizza and pasta made with fresh tomatoes,
olive oil and flavorful cheeses, beans and
fish are the true treasures of Pisa. You'll be
paying for ambiance if you dine in the many
restaurants around Campo dei Miracoli, so
eating here is quite expensive. For more
affordable but equally good food, some
say even better, head to where Pisans and
the rest of the student population eat – the
Piazza Cavalieri and Piazza Dante. Good
food can also be found in the cafes along
the Piazza delle Vettovaglie and along Via
San Martino.
Shopping
The main shopping district in Pisa is
centered on the Corso Italia. Another
shopping area is the strip along the Via
Borgo Stretto. For chocolatey delights,
head to Bonbon. Emporio Armani is
the epitome of upscale shopping in the
street's high-end area. For more affordable
fashions, head to Marina di Pisa Market.
© NileGuide
Hotel Insights
Hotels
Pisa is such a major day-trip site that few
people stay here overnight, which helps
keep hotel prices down but also limits
selection. The hotel desk in the main tourist
office will book you a room at no charge.
The low season for most hotels in Pisa is
July through August.
Restaurants
For a quick bite near Piazza del Duomo, or
perhaps for a picnic in front of the Leaning
Tower, Il Canguro(tel. 050-561-942), a few
short blocks down Via Santa Maria at no.
151, serves scrumptious sandwiches.
Attractions
The Leaning Tower& Other Pisan
Miracles
On a grassy lawn wedged into the
northwest corner of the city walls,
medieval Pisans created one of the most
beautiful squares in the world. Historically
dubbed the Campo dei Miracoli(Field of
Miracles), Piazza del Duomo contains an
array of elegant buildings that heralded the
Pisan Romanesque style.
But Piazza del Duomo isn't the central
plaza in town as in most Tuscan cities.
When it was built between the 11th and
13th centuries, the square was against
the city walls, surrounded by farmland.
But this peripheral location also somehow
plays a role in the piazza's uniqueness.
A very large but hidden part of its appeal,
aside from the beauty of the buildings, is
its spatial geometry. The piazza's medieval
engineers knew what they were doing. If
you take an aerial photo of the square and
draw connect-the-dot lines between the
centers, doors, and other focal points of
the buildings and the spots where streets
enter the piazza, you'll come up with
all sorts of perfect triangles, tangential
lines of mathematical grace, and other
unfathomable hypotenuses.
Incidentally, only the tourist industry calls
it Campo dei Miracoli. Pisans think that's
just a bit too much and refer to it, as they
always have, as Piazza del Duomo. I
recommend visiting the Camposanto after
the two museums, since both contain
exhibits that'll help you appreciate the loss
of the Camposanto frescoes.
Campo dei Miracoli Admissions-Admission charges for the group of
monuments and museums on the
campo are tied together in a needlessly
complicated way. The Cattedrale alone
costs 2€($2.60). Any other single sight is
5€($6.50). Any two sights are 6€($7.80).
The Cattedrale plus any two other sights
is 8€($10). An 8.50€($11) ticket gets you
into the Baptistery, Camposanto, Museo
dell'Opera del Duomo, and Museo delle
Sinopie, while a 10€($13) version throws
in the Cattedrale as well. Children under
10 enter free. For more information, visit
their collective website at www.opapisa.it.
Admission to the Leaning Tower(15€/$20) is
by advance reservation only.
Pisa's Perpendicularly Challenged
Tower
Most medieval towers still standing in Italy
haven't been able to keep perpendicular
over the centuries. But it's the Leaning
130
Pisa Snapshot continued
Tower of Pisa that has become international
shorthand for Italy itself.
The tower's problem-- that which has
been the bane of Pisan engineers trying to
overcome it for more than 800 years-- is
that you can't stack that much heavy marble
on top of a shifting subsoil foundation and
keep it all on the up and up. It was started
in 1173-- the date on the wall of 1174 owes
to an old Pisan quirk of starting the year
with the date of the Virgin's conception-by Guglielmo and Bonnano Pisano(who
also sculpted the Duomo's original bronze
doors). They got as far as the third level in
1185 when they noticed the lean, at that
point only about 3.8 centimeters(1 1/2 in.),
but enough to worry them. Everyone was at
a loss as to what to do, so work stopped for
almost a century and wasn't resumed again
until 1275 under the direction of Giovanni
di Simone. He tried to correct the tilt by
intentionally curving the structure back
toward the perpendicular, giving the tower
its slight banana shape. In 1284, work
stopped yet again just before the belfry. In
1360, Tomasso di Andrea da Pontedera
capped it all off at about 51m(167 ft.) with a
slightly Gothic belfry that tilts jauntily to the
side.
The only major blip in the tower's long
career as a world-famous, bizarre Italian
attraction came in 1590, when a hometown
scientist named Galileo Galilei dropped
some mismatched wooden balls off the
leaning side to prove to an incredulous
world his theory that gravity exerted the
same force on two falling objects no matter
what their relative weights. In the early
19th century, someone got it into his head
to dig out around the base of the tower
in order to see how the foundations were
laid and perhaps find a way to correct the
slipping lean, but all he accomplished was
to remove what little stability the tower had
acquired over the centuries, and it started
falling faster than ever before(not that it was
all that fast: about 1mm/.04 in. a year).
For several decades, a series of
complicated and delicate projects have
been directed at stabilizing the alluvial
subsoil. In 1989, more than a million people
climbed the tower, but by 1990 the lean
was at about 4.6m(15 ft.) out of plumb and,
by order of a mayor's office concerned for
safety, the tower was closed to the public.
At 3:25pm on January 7, 1990, with the
tower's bells sounding a death knell, the
doors were closed indefinitely. In 1992,
steel cables were belted around the base
to prevent shear forces from ripping apart
the masonry. In 1993, even the bells and
their dangerous vibrations were silenced,
and the same year a series of lead weights
was rather unaesthetically stacked on the
high side to try to correct the list. In 1997,
engineers took a chance on excavating
around the base again-- this time carefully
removing more than 70 tons of soil from
the foundation of the high side so the tower
could gradually tip back.
In December 2001, righted to its more
stable lean of 1838(when it was a
mere 4m/13 ft. off its center), the tower
reopened to the public. Now, however, the
number of visitors is strictly controlled via
compulsory 35- to 40-minute guided tours-and a massive admission charge. Visit
www.opapisa.it/boxoffice to book tickets.
It's wise to book well ahead; if you show up
in Pisa without reservations in the height of
the tourist season, you willnot be able to get
into the tower.
The campanile, by the way, isn't the only
edifice out of whack on the piazza. The
same water-saturated and unsteady sandy
soil under the Field of Miracles that causes
the bell tower's poor posture has taken
its toll on the other buildings as well. The
baptistery leans toward the north, and
if you catch the Duomo's facade at the
correct angle, you'll see it, too, is a few
feet shy of straight. The nature of Pisa's
alluvial plain has caused many of its older
buildings to shift and settle in this manner,
and a couple of other campanile about
town have been nicknamed Pisa's"other
leaning towers"(San Michele degli Scalzi
is, if anything, even more weirdly askew
than its more famous cousin). Admission
to Piazza del Duomo(tel. 050-560-547;
www.opapisa.it/boxoffice) is 17€(15€ ticket
plus 2€ advance sales fee/$22). Children
under 8 not permitted. Show printed proof
of receipt at the ticket offices of Opera della
Primaziale Pisa 1 hour prior to scheduled
visit. Open Monday to Friday 8am to
1:30pm. Take bus no. 1, 3, or 11.
Pisa's Sunken Treasure: Back in Hiding
The old Medici Arsenale, Lungarno
Simonelli, houses the finds of the
remarkable ongoing excavation of the 10
ancient Roman wooden ships-- spanning
the 1st century B.C. to the Imperial Age,
from riverboats to seafaring vessels-stumbled upon by workers expanding
the San Rossore train station in 1998.
After just 2 years open to the public,
however, the museum closed its doors
for restoration in January 2004 and won't
open them again until at least 2009. This
is truly disappointing, since it is one of the
most interesting exhibits in Tuscany, and
certainly more appealing to return visitors to
Pisa than another jaunt up the tower.
Buried by silt in the 12th century(which has
since moved the shoreline 8km/5 miles
west), these docks where the Arno met the
sea were probably half marshy flatlands,
half lagoon-- much like modern-day Venice.
Alas, this sort of harbor is prone to flash
flooding during storms, a recurrent event
that probably sank these ships at various
times over the centuries.
Fortunately for us, their sudden demise
also meant that much of their contents
have survived, from holds filled with clay
amphorae(whose seals have preserved
shipments of olives, cherries, walnuts,
and wine for 2,000 years) to sailor's
quarters still containing their belongings:
leather sandals, sewing kits, even a wax
writing board. In the half-decade since the
discovery, maritime archaeologists had
uncovered two more vessels, including
what may be the only Roman warship
ever recovered intact. When the museum
reopens, as Museo Navi Antiche di
Pisa(tel. 050-21-441 or 055-321-5446;
www.navipisa.it), it will display the ships'
contents(including a sailor's skeleton) and
will let you watch the arduous restoration of
the vessels.
Other Attractions in Pisa
If you go down Via Santa Maria from Piazza
del Duomo and take a left on Via dei Mille,
you'll come out into Piazza Cavalieri,
possibly the site of the Roman town's
131
forum and later the square where the
citizens of the medieval city-state met to
discuss political issues. Giorgio Vasari
remodeled the Palazzo dei Cavalieri in
1562 and decorated it with recently restored
and very detailed graffiti; it now houses
the renowned university college Scuola
Normale Superiore. Next to the palace is
the baroque San Stefano, housing some
tempera paintings by the likes of Empoli,
Cristofano Allori, and Vasari(Mon-Fri
9am-12:30pm, Sat-Sun 9am-12:30pm and
3-6pm). Also on the piazza is the stubby
clock tower of the Palazzo dell'Orologio,
where Count Ugolino della Gherardesca,
suspected of having betrayed his fellow
Pisans in the fateful battle where Genoa
decisively crushed Pisan naval might, was
locked up to starve to death along with his
sons and grandsons. The tragic story was
immortalized by Dante in hisInferno and
Shelley in hisTower of Famine.
If you continue down Via Santa Maria
toward the Arno, you'll come to the
millennial church of San Nicola(tel.
050-24-677), with a Francesco
TrainiMadonna and Child on the first altar
on the right and a 1400 St. Nicholas of
TolentinoProtecting Pisa from the Plague.
To the left of the high altar is Giovanni
Pisano's gauntJesus being crucified.
The church is also home to the second
of Pisa's leaning towers, a 13th-century
campanile whose spiral staircase inspired
Renaissance architect Bramante for the
stairs he installed in the Vatican.(Though
the church is officially open daily 9am-noon
and 5-8pm, you often need to seek out the
sacristan to get in; ring the bell at the door
next to the tower.)
To the northeast of Piazza Cavalieri
lies Santa Caterina(tel. 050-552-883),
with a Gothic facade from 1330 and the
tomb of Archbishop Simone Saltarelli
by Nino Pisano along with Francesco
Triani'sApotheosis of St. Thomas
Aquinas. It's open daily from 8am to 1pm.
Southeast of this, near the city walls, San
Francesco(tel. 050-544-091) contains
some good baroque works by Empoli, Il
Passignano, and Santi di Tito. The vault
has 1342 frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi, and
in the second chapel to the right of the high
altar is aCrucifixion with Saints by Spinello
Aretino. It's open daily from 7:30am to noon
and 4 to 7:30pm.
Walk west along Via San Francesco to
Borgo Stretto, Pisa's arcaded shopping
street. Off Borgo Stretto near Piazza
Garibaldi is hidden the arched Piazza
Vettovaglie, which houses an oldfashioned food market.
A ways up the Arno near Ponte Fortezza
is Pisa's only significant painting collection,
the Museo Nazionale di San Matteo,
Lungarno Mediceo(tel. 050-541-865).
To see the collection in chronological
order, head immediately out into the pretty
brick cloister and cross to ascend the
central staircase on the opposite side.
(If you mistake doors, you'll be in for a
whole lot of medieval and Renaissance
painted plates.) Poorly lit and sporadically
labeled, the collections are constantly
being rearranged, but you should be
able to find the masterpieces amid the
shuffle. The first large room of paintings
has many good 14th- and 15th-century
works by Turino Vanni, Taddeo di Bartolo,
and Spinello Aretino, plus a pair of Agnolo
Gaddi polyptychs. One of the prides of the
collections is the Sienese master Simone
Martini's polyptych of theVirgin and Child
with Saints. In a side room they keep the
originals of the Giovanni and Nino Pisano
sculptures from Santa Maria della Spina,
including Nino's masterpiece,Madonna
del Latte, a very human mother in Gothic
curving grace who smiles down at her
nursing baby.
Other star works are aSt. Paul by
Masaccio, the greenishly agedMadonna
dell'Umilità by Gentile da Fabriano,
and aMadonna col Bambino by Fra'
Angelico. The Donatello gilded bronze
reliquaryBust of St. Rossone(1427) is an
important sculptural step from medieval to
Renaissance style and is held by some to
be a self-portrait. Take bus no. 5, 7, or 13
to get to the museum; it's open Tuesday
through Saturday from 9am to 7pm and
Sunday from 9am to 2pm; admission is
4€($5.20).
If you follow the north side of the Arno
upstream about a mile past San Matteo(or
take bus no. 14), you'll come to Pisa's third
and perhaps most skewed"leaning tower."
It almost looks as if the Pisans simply gave
up on rulers and right angles when building
San Michele degli Scalzi. Nothing stands
straight up: not the outer walls, the tiers of
columns dividing the nave from the aisles,
the apse, the windows, or, of course, the
bell tower. Take bus no. 13(from Via San
Michele degli Scalzi) back to the center.
The south bank of the Arno holds little
of interest except for the Gothic gem
Santa Maria della Spina(tel. 050-21-441),
which sits along the river. The church is a
collaborative Giovanni and Nino Pisano
work of 1230 to 1323, dismantled and
raised to current ground level(for fear
of floods) in 1871. It was built to house
aspina(thorn) from Christ's Passion crown
brought back by a merchant from the
Crusades. Much of the Pisano sculpture
from the outside has been removed for
safekeeping to the Museo Nazionale di
San Matteo, as has the church's primary
attraction, Nino Pisano'sMadonna del Latte.
However, for the first time since it closed
35 years ago, you can finally peek inside.
Open Tuesday through Friday: October
through March from 10am to 2pm(and
10am-1pm and 2:30-5pm on the second
Sun of those months); April, May, and
September from 10am to 1:30pm and 2:30
to 6pm(7pm weekends); June through
August from 11am to 1:30pm and 2:30
to 6pm(8pm weekends). Admission is
1.10€($1.45) adults, free for children under
10 and seniors over 65.
Travel Tips
Planning a Trip
Getting There
By Train-- There are more than 20 trains
daily from Rome(3 hr.). From Florence,
40 daily trains make the trip(80-90 min.).
Three to four trains an hour run from nearby
Livorno(15 min.); and there are trains
running approximately every hour from
Siena(100-110 min.). Lucca offers 24 runs
here every day(20-30 min.). On the Lucca
line, day-trippers(and anyone staying in any
132
of the hotels listed hereexcept the Royal
Victoria) should get off at the San Rossore
station, just a few blocks west of Piazza
del Duomo and its Leaning Tower. All other
trains-- and eventually the Lucca one-- pull
into Pisa Centrale station(tel. 050-41-385).
From here, bus no. 1, 3, or 11 will take you
to Piazza del Duomo.
By Plane-- Tuscany's main international
airport, Galileo Galilei(general info tel.
050-500-707; www.pisa-airport.com), is
just 3km(2 miles) south of Pisa. Trains
zip you downtown to the train station in 5
minutes(1€/$1.30). A taxi ride to town will
cost 4€ to 8€($5.20-$10).
By Car-- There's a Florence-Pisa
autostrada along the Arno valley. Take the
SS12 or S12r from Lucca; the A12 comes
down the coast from the north, and the SS1
runs north and south along the coast. Park
just outside Porta Santa Maria, either along
Via A. Pisano(metered; 1€/$1.30 per hour
8am-8pm) or in the nearby lot at Via C. S.
Cammeo 51(same rates).
By Bus-- CPT(tel. 050-505-511 or
800-012-773 in Italy; www.cpt.pisa.it) runs
the city's buses. Bus nos. 1, 3, and 11 run
most directly to Campo dei Miracoli from
the main train station.
By Bus-- Lazzi(tel. 0583-584-876;
www.lazzi.it), Via d'Azeglio, runs hourly
buses from Florence(2-2 1/2 hr.), but you
have to connect through Lucca(hourly
runs; 20-30 min.). CPT, Via Nino
Bixio(tel. 050-505-511 or 800-012-773
in Italy; www.cpt.pisa.it), has routes
from Volterra(10 daily connect through
Pontenedra for a 2-2 1/2-hr. total trip),
Livorno(half-hourly; 40-55 min.), and towns
along the coast. The bus station is at
Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, just north of the
main train station.
Getting Around
By Taxi-- Taxis rank on Piazza Stazione
and Piazza del Duomo. Call a radio taxi at
tel. 050-541-600.
Visitor Information
The main tourist office is just outside
Porta Santa Maria on the west end of
Campo dei Miracoli at Via C. Cammeo
2(tel. 050-560-464 or 050-830-253;
www.pisa.turismo.toscana.it; daily MayOct 9am-7:30pm, until 5:30pm NovApr). A small office is to the left as you
exit the train station(tel. 050-42-291).
Either can hand out maps and pamphlets,
but they're oddly uninformed on
the city of Pisa. Considerably more
knowledgeable"Custodians of the Duomo"
usually hang around the Museo dell'Opera
del Duomo desk. The administrative
APT office is at Via Pietro Nenni 24(tel.
050-929-777; fax 050-929-764). A helpful
private tourism consortium(supported by
the state) shares office space with the Via
C. Cammelo tourist office(tel. 050-830-253;
fax 050-830-243; www.pisae.it); among
other services, it will book rooms for free.
To find out what's going on in town, pick up
a copy of the free weekly Indizi e Servizi(at
some newsstands and hotels).
Festivals& Markets
Since the 1400s, teams from the north
and south sides of the Arno have dressed
in Renaissance costumes and tried their
darnedest to run one another over with a
giant 7-ton decorated cart on the Ponte
di Mezzo, site of the city's old Roman
bridge. This inverse tug-of-war, the Gioco
del Ponte, is held on the last Sunday in
June. Also in June is the Festa di San
Ranieri, when Pisans honor their patron
saint by lining the Arno with torches on the
16th, then running a boat race on the 17th.
There's an excellent daily food market on
Piazza delle Vettovaglie.
133
Rome Snapshot
Local Info
Rome is a city that cannot be described
in few words. With more than 2,500 years
of history, hundreds of thousands of art
works, monuments, and beautiful views,
the aptly named Eternal City is interwoven
with unparalleled history, beauty and
drama. Every monument, palazzo, park
and piazza are testament to the many rises
and falls of Rome, from its early Republican
birth and Imperial age through to its 21st
century incarnation. Likened to a gigantic
open-air museum, Rome is living history,
and every year the city hosts millions of
visitors-- tourists, scholars and pilgrims-from all over the world. It is chaotic, friendly,
aggressive and relaxed; in essence a
charming contradiction that wins the hearts
of its visitors, who always return.
Rome is famously noted as being built
on seven hills-- the Quirinale, Viminale,
Esquilino, Celio, Aventine, Capitoline,
and Palatine. The birth of Rome starts on
thePalatine, a small shepherding settlement
where, as tradition says, Romulus lived
when he founded the city. Historically,
the Palatine was the"it" hill where Rome's
celebrated leaders lived from the kings
of 7th to 5th centuries, to the Republican
senators and patricians and the Imperial
Age's emperors. TheCapitoline hill
represents Rome itself. It was the center
of the Empire, home to the most important
temples(which served for religious as
well as political significance) from the 7th
century BC through Rome's changing
times. Today, the Capitoline hill is centered
by the Michelangelo-designed Piazza del
Campidoglio, with the statue of Emperor
Marcus Aurelius on horseback at the very
center. Lining the piazza are the Capitoline
Museums, Italy's most precious sculpture
collection and Rome's city hall.
The highest of Rome's seven hills,
theQuirinale, is home to Palazzo del
Quirinale, a former papal and monarchy
residence and now the palace of Italy's
reigning president. Noteworthy is the
open piazza, with its looming obelisk and
equestrian statues. Opposite the Palazzo
is theScuderie, formerly stables and now
a gorgeous temporary exposition space
for international exhibitions. The base of
the Quirinale was partially dismantled by
Emperor Trajan at the beginning of the 2nd
century. What remains are the markets of
Trajan and Trajan's column, marking the
height of the hill. TheViminale stands next
to Quirinale and is smaller in size. The hill
is bisected by Via Nazionale, a shopping
street where the early 20th century Palazzo
delle Esposizioni building resides, and
leads upward to the majestic Piazza della
Repubblica, a favorite piazza for its doublesided arcade of columns and playful
Naiad fountain. Just behind the piazza is
Rome's principal railway station, Stazione
Termini. Roman poets Virgil and Horace
lived on theEsquiline hill, now a very busy
neighborhood which encompasses the
popular Monti district. The Esquiline's
terrain includes three peaks, one of which is
Monte Oppio, where Nero built his infamous
Domus Aurea. Below the Esquiline and
behind the Colosseum is theCelio, Rome's
greenest and most charming hill where the
lovely Villa Celimontana park is located.
TheAventine, seen from the peak of the
Palatine, past the Circus Maximus, is
a quiet, residential neighborhood, with
remains of Rome's original 3rd century wall.
Rome has expanded these seven hills, and
in a city full of hundreds of rooftops and
domes like San Pietro(St. Peter's Basilica),
some of the most beautiful panoramas can
be seen from the hills of Montemario, the
Pincio and the Janiculum.
© NileGuide
History
The history of Rome is based on myth,
which Romans proudly celebrate April 21.
Rome's beginnings start with the fall of Troy
and Aeneas's escape from the burning
city. Fleeing by ship, Aeneas landed on the
Italian peninsula and establishes Albalunga,
a community in Lazio. As myth recounts,
Aeneas' descendant Rhea Silvia was forced
to become a Vestal Virgin so as not to bear
children. However, Rhea Silvia was loved
by the god Mars and bore him twin sons,
Romulus and Remus, who were placed
in a basket in the Tiber River to be killed.
But the twins washed ashore close to the
Palatine hill and were nurtured by a shewolf and eventually raised by a shepherd.
Romulus and Remus grow up and take
residence on the Palatine and Aventinte
hills, respectively. According to the myth,
the brothers argued over who would be the
foretold founder of an empire so Romulus
killed Remus and founded the city of Rome
on April 21, 753 BC.
Rome's ancient history covers three
distinct periods—the Age of the Kings,
the Republican Age and the Imperial
Age. From Romulus, the small hillside
community was ruled by the"king of
the hill" until 510 BC. Seven historic
kings who change Rome from a small
shepherding town into a cosmopolitan
city with complex governing and trading
programs and an impressive drainage
system. With its constant exposure to far
more democratic states, especially Greece,
Rome's kings were ousted and in its place
was an advanced republic, which is the
blueprint for all future democracies. The
republic was also characterized by internal
struggles that eventually due to the rise
of the plebeians(lower class Romans).
The Republic was not just city, but a
concept that expanded through Lazio,
the Italic peninsula and eventually the
Mediterranean. For almost four centuries,
Rome built unparalleled and nearly infallible
republic, accomplishing what Greece,
Persia and Egypt could not-- the unification
of the East and West.
Corruption was rampant, likewise egos
and the Republic was shattered with the
death of Julius Caesar on March 15, 44
BC. Chaos reigned but 31 BC marks the
beginning of the Empire, under Augustus
Caesar. The imperial age opened with
a long period of peace, Pax Romanus,
under the iron grip of Augustus. And by
the beginning of the 2nd century under
Trajan, the empire's expanse was in its full
glory. However, instability and corruption
were popular within the empire and
likewise within the psyche of the Emperors.
Centuries forward brought dilution of
the boundaries and of the emperors.
Christianity, legalized under Constantine
in 312 AD, began to spread and create a
strong presence that challenged imperial
regime.
The official fall of Rome is marked at 476
AD, but its decline was seen much earlier.
The causes are many: constant relocation
of the capital, uncontrollable subjects,
134
Rome Snapshot continued
quixotic social and economic changes,
and finally the arrival and strength of the
barbarian tribes. Rome was left as a bandit
town, a gangland and an abyss through
the Middle Ages. The only ruling party was
papal, but again, the city was anarchy.
However, the Pope's power evolved from
religious to military, and through out the
centuries grew exponentially. In 1377,
Rome was established as official papal
headquarters and by the end of the 15th
century, its cultural impact on the city was
seen in the papal beautification programs
—essentially urban planning. The face of
the city changed, as palaces, villas, piazzas
and churches were built. New streets were
created and the basilica of Saint Peter was
leveled and rebuilt, followed by two more
centuries of expansion and beautification.
Clashes continued between the papacy and
Rome's people, and in the beginning of the
1800s, Napoleon changed the landscape
as church's estates were confiscated
and divided amongst French officials and
Italian laymen. The 1800s were an era of
unrest through out the Peninsula, with the
rising campaign to overthrow the pope and
install a monarchy. In 1870, the campaign
succeeded and Italy was established as a
country free of papal rule, led by both a king
and parliament with Rome as its capital. In
1923, Mussolini was elected to Parliament
and eventually becomes 20th century tyrant
heralding Fascism. World War II caused
tantamount strife in Italy as Italy was first
part of the axis and then surrendered to the
Allied forces in 1943, leading Germany to
occupy Rome for over 9 months as the King
fled. The city was bombed by the Allies
and in April 1944 it was liberated. In 1946,
Italy became once again a republic, exiling
its monarchy, and ever since, Rome has
been the hotbed of Italy's whimsical politics.
© NileGuide
Hotel Insights
The"Eternal City" holds a fascination for
anyone in search of history or just plain
beauty. Students, tourists, businessmen
and pilgrims visit Rome at any time of the
year, maintaining an uninterrupted flow of
tourism that redefines the Eternal moniker.
Despite Rome’s abundance of hotels, it is
not always easy to find a last-minute room,
so make sure to research and reserve in
advance.
Centro Storico(Historic Center)
The majority of hotels, both luxury and
lax, are found Rome’s historic center.
Traditionally,Via Veneto is home to Rome’s
most expensive and luxurious including
theAmbasciatori Palace, theHotelMajestic,
theWestin Excelsior and theEden—
all making deserved appearance in
Federico Fellini's filmLa Dolce Vita.
Heading down the hill, Rome’s other
exclusive addresses are the Bernini Bristol
overlooking theFountain of Triton, and the
omnipotentHassler Villa Medici, at the top
of the Trinità dei Monti steps. Now luxury
can be found all over the city, from the
majesticExedra at Piazza della Repubblica
to the celebrity favoriteDe Russie at
Piazza del Popolo. For those wanting
a little Grand Tour charm, theValadier
inPiazza del Popolo, theD'Inghilterra and
theDei Borgognoni near the lively Piazza
di Spagna, all provide a room with a very
beautiful view.
For less chaos and green, the upperclass
and very residential Parioli neighborhood
has the swankyLord Byron hotel, a favorite
among business travelers and trystseekers.
© NileGuide
There is a wide, varied selection as far
as gastronomy is concerned in Rome;
choices range from exclusive high-level
cuisine, developed by some of the most
famous chefs on the international scene
to traditional, heartyRomanesca fare in all
its manifold variations; from Jewish cuisine
andtestaccina recipes to the specialties
of Lazio and ethnic dishes, which can be
sampled in the plethora of restaurants that
offer delights from all over the world.
The only way to really understand the
heart and soul of Rome is by tasting its
culinary splendors in a popular restaurant,
this allows you to steep yourself in Roman
culture while you discover the tastes and
flavors of traditional cooking through the
ages.
Affordable accommodations pepper the city,
and some popular pads are found in and
around the nooks of Campo dei Fiori, the
Pantheon and Piazza Navona, likeHotel
Teatro di Pompeo, Albergo del Sole and
Relais Palazzo Taverna. If antiquity is of
most importance, theForty-Seven,Inn at the
Forum and Hotel Gladiatori, with amazing
forum and colosseum views, may just fit
your needs.
Delicious Roman cuisine stems from a time
when people were unable to afford a meal
made with meat, and therefore had to use
offal, which at that time was considered
less"prestigious" but definitely more
affordable. Over the centuries, traditional
dishes likecoda alla vaccinara(oxtail cooked
with wine, tomatoes and peppers),la
pajata,(veal's offal cooked in a tomato
sauce),l'abbacchio alla scottadito andla
trippa alla romana(tripe), have come to be
considered as delicacies and are eaten by
even the most refined palates.
Termini
Centro Storico(Historic Center)
Manypensioni and bed& breakfasts are
found around Termini station. They are
almost always privately run, simply and
cheap, making them an ideal choice for
budget traveling. The Bee Hive is Rome’s
favorite for atmosphere and affordability.
If in search of high-class food, Rome offers
a great choice of quality restaurants. There
are elegant places in the more exclusive
hotels, such as La Pergola dell'Hotel
Hilton, the Terrazza dell'Hotel Eden or La
Veranda dell'Hotel Majestic. You can also
try the delights of creative haute cuisine
at restaurants such as Quinzi& Gabrieli,
Alberto Ciarla, and Le Sans Souci. Tucked
away down a small alley, the exclusive Il
Convivio Troiani can be hard to fine, but if
you are looking for Italianalta cucina this is
your place. Agata e Romeo have offered
family run fine dining for three generations.
Romeo is an expert sommelier and the
Trastevere
The Trastevere neighborhood has a
broad range of hotels, from the luxurious
Hotel Donna Camilla Savelli to the more
outrageous Goodnight Garibaldi.
Parioli/Flaminio
135
restaurant has over 1500 labels in its
cellar. Romolo nel Giardino della Fornarina
in Trastevere is the perfect setting for a
romantic evening; dine outside in the lowlit courtyard where Raphael is said to have
courted his lady La Fornarina. Nino is a
cozy option, offering classic Roman and
Tuscan cuisine in a warm environment. Or,
if you are looking for pizza in the center,
try Da Baffetto, which has been serving up
some of best around since the 1960s.
Inspired by the popular filmBabette's Feast,
Ristorante Babette has the feel of a 1920s
French bistro. Gusto 28 also has a chic
early 20th-century feel, and is especially
known for its seafood dishes and variety of
vegetarian plates. Ancient meets modern
at L'Acino Brillo, where creative cuisine and
contemporary decor blend delightfully in
this hip restaurant and wine bar.
of high quality pizza parlors. Remo, in the
heart of Testaccio, offers outdoor seating
and hip younger crowd. In addition to
pizza, don't miss other delicious Roman
offerings found at pizzerie and trattorie,
such asSupplì al telefono, fried rice balls
filled with mozzarella, potato croquettes,
fried cod fillets, fried pumpkin flowers,
andbruschette,(slices of toasted bread with
tomato or oil and garlic).
Termini
Est! Est!! Est!!! has been around since the
early 1900s, and serves thick-crusted pan
pizzas as opposed to traditional Roman thin
crusted pies. This is a great option if you
are in the center of the city and don't feel
like heading over to the many pizzerie over
in the Trastevere.
Vaticano
Rosati is also in the center and offers great
views with their coffee. A celebrity hot spot
during the 1960s and 1970s, they also have
a dining room if your espresso leaves you
wanting more. Obika off Piazza Navona
offers something unique yet stillveramente
italiano- a fresh mozzarella bar. A number
of varieties of one of Italy's most famous
cheeses are served here, accompanied by
a nice selection of meats, vegetables and
sauces.
For gelato, Gelateria Pellacchia in the
historical center offers some of Rome's
best, as well as coffees and panini.
©
A relaxing way to enjoy a snack or evening
coffee is at one of Rome's many cafés,
usually serving coffee, gelato, panini and
snacks. The elegant Ciampini is located
atop the Spanish Steps, and offers amazing
views of the city. The famed Antico Caffè
Greco is one of Rome's oldest(open since
the 1760), and is definitely one of its most
exclusive.
Theater
Trastevere
Pizzerias and trattorie are definitely the
most popular places to dine in Rome:
informal, economical and with speedy
service, they are home topizza alla romana,
pizzas with a thin crust and a crispy edge,
as opposed to the soft raised crusts of
the Neapolitan pizza; however, if you are
craving a taste of bella Napoli, you can't
do any better than Da Vittorio. You will
find pizzerias in every corner of the city,
but Trastevere offers an especially wide
choice of pizza restaurants with wood
fueled ovens(these give the pizza a more
intense flavor). Panattoni, Ivo, Dar Poeta,
Roma Sparita, Arco di San Calisto, are just
some of the places from a wide selection
Nightlife Insights
Rome's beauty is accessible both day and
night and the same is to be said for its vast
range of entertainment—theater, cinema,
opera, discos; the list is(almost) endless.
The theatrical season lasts from October
to May and it can often continue through
the summer months. Most theatres offer a
range of plays and productions, but there
is one very special exception: The Sistina
is the undisputed home of musicals. There
are numerous private, experimental and
avant-garde theatres often hosting young
artists and offering stimulating, thoughtprovoking works. The Abraxa Teatro, is
home to an innovative company, who seek
to express themselves and their ideas by
using their bodies rather than speech. If
your tastes are a little more traditional,
historic theatres such as Teatro Argentina,
Valle and the Nazionale offer high quality
performances by famous actors and theatre
companies. The Teatro della Cometa and
the Teatro Flaiano offer light comedies.
Cinema
The cinemas in Rome have greatly
improved over the past few years. Many
new multiplexes have been built and
other cinemas have been completely
restored. The cinema scene in Rome
today is characterized by a fair amount
of small, independent cinemas and many
large, modern multiscreen cinemas;
these cinemas almost exclusively show
commercial films. Some of the better
known independent cinemas such as
the Greenwich, the Intrastevere, and
the Labirinto have united to formCircuito
Cinema, a society interested in promoting
innovative films, created in an attempt
to confront the supremacy of the large
distribution companies. Warner Moderno,
Metropolitan, Nuovo Sacher and Alcatraz
often show English-language films.
Summer is definitely the most romantic time
to enjoy a film at the outdoor cinema on
Isola Tiberina.
Live Music
Live music is popular in Rome. There are
an increasing number of places offering live
music from Italy, America, England, Africa
and South America. The most successful
venues are concentrated in certain areas
such as the Testaccio quarter, including
places like Akab and Radio Londra. The
Trastevere quarter is the home of the
historic Big Mama. The Alexanderplatz in
Trionfale is also recommended.
Classical Music
Classical music lovers are also catered
for, the city has a varied concert season;
there is chamber music at the Accademia
di Santa Cecilia and the Gonfalone
organizes delightful baroque music
concerts. The"symphony season" at
the Teatro dell'Opera takes place in
Terme di Caracalla during the summer,
but the Associazione Il Tempietto offers
concerts throughout the year. The elegantly
furnished and imposing Teatro dell'Opera
is the only theatre in Rome, which offers
an operatic season of any importance and
in summer, opera is performed outdoors in
the enchanting Terme di Caracalla or the
Piazza di Siena.
Discotheques
Discos are very popular amongst the
glamorous Romans; the elegant, formal
crowd(politicians, actors and VIPs)
often like to go to 1980s style clubs. The
more"serious" clubbers frequent Via
Galvani in Testaccio, the heart of Rome's
night life. During the summer months,
many discos relocate to the beaches of
Fregene and Ostia, and some even to the
Tiber banks for RomaEstate.
136
Pubs& Bars
Discos aren't the only places that are
popular on the weekend; pubs, beer
gardens, restaurants and bars all teem with
life. Many of theselocali perform more than
one function. For example, a cocktail bar
will sell beer or allow you to surf the Internet
before you hit the dance floor. Many cafés
stay open late. The most popular and lively
cafés are in the splendid Trastevere district
in Via Veneto and Piazza Navona like the
classic Caffe della Pace. Wine bars tend
to be laid-back, informal and welcoming.
These are great places to have a snack
while sipping some excellent wine. Try the
Trimani Il Wine Bar and the Cul de Sac in
Piazza Navona. Pubs and beer gardens in
Rome tend to have a British theme, they
serve many different beers, and true to the
good old'Brit' style, you can enjoy a game
of darts with your pint! Places to be"seen" in
include the Fiddler's Elbow and the Victoria
House.
© NileGuide
Colosseum
Heading the list of Rome's ancient
monuments is of course the Colosseum.
Inaugurated in 80 AD, it is the symbol of the
Imperial Capitol and draws visitors from all
over the world. Even if the lines are long, a
tour of this ancient arena is well worth it.
The Forum
The Palatine is the oldest part of the city
and home to the many of the ancient sites.
To the North of the Palatine hill are the vast
remains of the Roman Forum, once the
social, political, and economic center of the
city.
Pantheon, Trevi& Navona
The Pantheon, with its rotund interior and
open ceiling, was constructed circa 125
BC and is now used as a Christian Church.
One of Rome's famous landmarks is the
Trevi Fountain, immortalized in Fellini's
filmLa Dolce Vita. Although you are not
allowed to wade through the fountain as
Anita Ekberg famously did, legend has it
that throwing a coin in ensures a return trip
to Rome. On the other side of the Pantheon
is the oval0shaped Piazza Navona which
was once a Roman circus(hence its shape)
but designated as a square in the 15th
Century. Bernini's famous Fontana dei
Quattro Fiumi is located here, along with
Fontana del Nettuno. Piazza Campo de'
Fiori is also close by. By day the square
hosts one of the most famous street
markets in Italy, and is a popular meeting
place for tourists as well as local youth
during evening hours. The Spanish Steps
or Scalinata Trinità dei Monti, at Piazza di
Spagna, are another of Italy's most famous
meeting places.
Vatican
Many of the works that were uncovered
during the original excavation can now be
seen in the Vatican Museums. St. Peter's
Square is one of the most visited places on
Earth. People come from all over the world
to see Saint Peter's Basilica and receive
the Pope's blessing, traditionally given
Sundays at noon. Leave plenty of time to
tour the Musei Vaticani(Vatican Museums),
which house numerous masterpieces,
including Michaelangelo's Sistine Chapel
and Rapahel's School of Athens. Just
east of the Vatican on the Tiber is Castel
Sant'Angelo. Originally constructed as a
mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian in 139
CE, the fortress was used as a castle
during the 10th Century and eventually as
a papal residence. The last act of Puccini's
masterworkTosca took place here, and
today the building has been turned into a
museum. The Ponte Sant'Angelo stretches
over the Tiber and was also constructed by
Hadrian, intended to link the tomb with the
center of Rome.
©
Travel Tips
Airports
Fiumicino Leonardo da Vinci(FCO)
International airport and Ciampino(CIA)
airport(www.adr.it) are Rome's two hubs
for air travel. Fiumicino is the transatlantic
traveler's delight with its numerous shops
and restaurants. Fiumicino has long and
short term parking, and easily connected to
Rome by a thirty minute train ride, bus or
taxi. Ciampino is hub for European travel,
especially for budget airlines like Ryan Air
and Easy Jet. Ciampino is connected to
Rome by bus, shuttle and taxi.
From the Airport
Fiumicino-Leonardo Da Vinci International
Airport (FCO)
Train: The Leonardo Express runs
directly from the airport to the main rail
terminal,Termini, as well as Tiburtina and
Trastevere stations, with trains every 30
minutes from 6:35a-11:35p. Tickets are
purchased either from teller or automated
machines, and must be validated prior to
boarding. Children under 12 accompanied
by an adult ride free. Follow signs
for"Stazione FS/Railway Station," located
on the second floor.
Bus:"Sit Bus Shuttle" to and from airport
to city center(Piazza Cavour e Stazione
Termini, in Via Marsala). Bus stop is found
in front of Arrivals at Terminal 3. Tickets
are purchased on bus.http://sitbusshuttle.it
Taxi: Rome's official taxis are white with
black identity codes on the door. A ride from
the airport the city center is EUR40, with
supplemental baggage fees. Wait in the
official-regulated taxi lines rather than falling
prey to non-licensed drivers.
Ciampino Airport(CIA)
Bus: to and from Ciampino to Termini
Station by busesATRAL, COTRAL, SIT and
TERRAVISION. The buses are parked in
dedicated bus bays opposite International
Departures.
Train
Rome is a major hub for Italian rail,
at Termini Station. It is managed
and maintained by the Italian State
Railway(http://www.trenitalia.com/) and
offers a variety of options for continental
as well as local travel. The EuroStar and
Freccia Rossa are the high speed lines
traveling up and down the peninsula. Most
of the trains arrive and depart at Rome's
Termini station, including all InterCity,
regional and national trains, with a few
international trains stopping at Ostiense
and Tiburtina stations.
Bus
Tiburtina Station(http://
www.romatiburtina.it/), north eastern part of
Rome, is the base for most intercity buses.
The bus terminal is located adjacent to the
rail station. Euroline(http://www.eurolines.it/)
and Cotral services bus lines that run
internationally.
Car
All roads lead to Rome. The A1, Italy's
famed superhighway running from Milan to
Naples, makes sure to pass through Rome.
The A24 spans east and the SS1 Aurelia
coastal route splits the A12/E80 between
Genoa and Rome. All converge with
137
Rome's ring road, the Grande Raccordo
Anulare(GRA). With gas prices paid
by the liter and toll roads littering the
motorways, driving can be quite expensive.
Check out the Autostrada website(http://
www.autostrade.it/) for toll info throughout
the country.
Driving in Rome can be a harrowing
experience. The historical center is
a restricted driving zone(Zona Trafica
Limitata- abbreviated ZTL), and nonresident vehicles are prohibited M-F 8a-6p
and Sa 8a-1p, enforced by major fines.
Paid parking spaces are marked by blue
lines and are all over the city. Parking
Termini is located in front of the main train
station and is open from 6a-1a. ParkSi
and Parking Ludovisi are located near
the Villa Borghese. Another option are
theparcheggi di scampio lots, located
farther outside the city center usually near
metro stops. Around EUR2 a day, this is a
very economical but riskier option as lots
are unattended.
Public Transport
ATAC is Rome's public transportation
provider for buses, trams and metro line.
Tickets are 1 euro, and require validation
before travel. Duration is 75 minutes.
Buses run 24 hours a day throughout the
entire city. TheMetropolitana or metro
has two lines(A and B) recognizable by
large red signs marked"M". The lines crisscross through the city, intersecting only at
Stazione Termini and run from 5:30a-11:30
everyday, and until 12:30a on Saturdays.
Children under ten years ride free. For
information about special tickets like the allday pass and to plan your route, visithttp://
www.atac.roma.it/(Italian only site).
Taxi
Rome's official taxis are white and have
a black identification number on the door
reading Comune di Roma. Use only these
authorized taxis, as they are metered
and regulated-- and make sure to keep a
close eye on the meter. Normal starting
fare(between 7a-10p) is EUR2.80; night
fares are higher(10p-7a) EUR5. Remember
that Sunday and holiday fares also apply
between 7a-10p, and rate per mile
increases if you travel outside the city limits.
Bring plenty of small bills as Roman taxi
drivers are notorious for not having change!
Taxi Companies include:
Cooperativa Radiotaxi Samarcanda
Radiotaxi 3570
© NileGuide
Fun Facts
Interesting Fact: SPQR, Rome's nearly
2500 year-old mottoSenatus Populus
Romanus(aka the Senate and the People
of Rome) is also the motto of Rome's waste
removal organization.Fun Fact: Rome is
a capital city which contains the world's
smallest country, Vatican City, of 108 acres,
within the boundaries of the Eternal City's
original urban sprawl.Weird Fact: Visitors
have the opportunity for a sneak peak at
purgatory. The Museum of the Souls in
Purgatory sits in side room of the Church of
Sacred Heart of Suffering, just across the
river from Piazza Navona. The museum
showcases artefacts that have traces from
souls suffering in purgatory. Not limbo,
but purgatory, the 8000 year waiting room
between heaven and hell.
Random Fact: the majority of all souvenir
sellers are named either Marco or
Massimo/Massimiliano.University Fact:
Rome's first university, La Sapienza(est.
A.D. 1303), is the largest in Europe with
over 100,000 enrolled students and
the second largest in the world.Soccer
Fact: Most Romans lovecalcio(soccer),
and Rome sports two teams: Roma, the
traditional anti-establishment, working
class team and Lazio, the slightly more
staid club. Make sure you know which
colors to wear(red/yellow or blue/white) and
how to identify team symbols– very useful
when arguing with a taxi driver.Museum
Fact: Rome's museum traverse ancient
to contemporary art, but there are several
offbeat culture caches as well including:
a Pasta museum, Horror museum(by
director Dario Argento), a Purgatory
museum, Carabinieri museum(military
police), and the museum of police cars
and uniforms.Ancient History Fact: Rome
celebrates its 753 BC foundation every April
21st. All shops, businesses and schools
are closed in celebration of Romulus'
foundation of the city.Fake Fact: Most
Romans can trace their lineage back to
Julius Caesar and his merry men. More
likely, the true Roman is someone who
can trace his family heritage in Rome
only back seven generations.Bridge Fact:
The Ponte Rosso is Rome's oldest bridge
from the first century BC. It has been
damaged and repaired several times,
but to no success. Even Michelangelo
Buonarotti could not keep that bridge from
falling down.Food Fact: Rome has an ice
cream shop,gelateria, on ever corner which
feature flavors from traditionalcioccolato to
more fanciful tomato and basil. Everyone
has a favorite gelateria and everyone
has an opinion. Tanning Fact: Rome is
approximately 13 miles from the beachOstia- an easy and inexpensive train trip
for a quick tan- 20-minute and 1 euro via
ATAC, Rome's public transport
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138
Verona Snapshot
Local Info
The city made famous by the tragic love
affair of Romeo and Juliet has actually
much more to offer than romanticism. While
the Shakespearean tragedy is a work of
fiction of one of the greatest playwrights
in history, Verona in the Veneto region of
Italy is 100 percent real. Its sights, sounds
and attractions can be felt and touched by
all the senses. And yet the ill-fated story
of starstruck lovers, no matter how unreal,
has taken on a life of its own. No matter
how cynical you have become, the belief
in undying love that seems to envelope the
city further heightens its appeal and rubs
off on you. You can't leave Verona without
loving it.
Sights
Juliet's House, with her very famous
balcony, looks just as you likely imagined
it when reading the famous play. But
after you've scribbled a love note on her
walls, it's time to see the more authentic
sights. The Roman Arena may look to be
crumbling from the outside but it still holds
performances during opera season. The
Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore, with its
frescoes dating from the 12th to the 15th
centuries, is breathtaking while the Duomo,
with the Cartolari-Nichesola Chapel, is
another remarkable architectural stop.
Other churches worth a visit are the Chiesa
di Sant'Anastasia, the Chiesa di San Fermo
and the Chiesa di San Lorenzo. If you
want to relax, the well-sculpted gardens of
Giardino Giusti are as charming as when
they were first opened to visitors in 1591.
The Castelvecchio Museum has a dazzling
array of exhibits. If you want to get a wide
view of Verona, climb up the Torre dei
Lamberti.
Arche Scaligeri. Many cafes and bars are
clustered along Piazza delle Erbe. There
are also many eating and drinking spots in
Piazza Bra but these can be very crowded.
Shopping
Whether you're looking for high-quality
fashion, bags or jewelry, the main shopping
street in Verona is Via Mazzini, where many
Italian brands are represented. The Corso
Porta Borsari has great souvenirs while the
Corso Sant'Anastasia offers antiques and
other minor masterpieces. For wines, head
to Oreste dal Zovo in Vicolo San Marco.
© NileGuide
History
This wonderful city located along the
Adige River and at the foot of the Lessini
Mountains(today a National Park,) has
been the site of various human settlements
for the past 300,000 years. Early settlers,
who began working with materials other
than flint, used stone as one of the
principle natural resources. They fashioned
numerous objects from instruments for use
in daily life to religious artifacts.
At the time when the region was first
touched by Roman civilization, it was
probably inhabited by Celts. The Emperor
reinforced the city's defenses with strong
city walls. Extraordinary monuments were
built and the urban structure began to take
shape—it was an interesting mix of the
Medieval and modern.
Dining
Over the years, Verona became a very
important city due to its geographical
location(even today, it is an important
industrial and commercial gateway to the
north of Italy) and its ports provide access
to northern Europe. For this reason, it
became one of the most highly developed
urban centers in Italy.
Dining in Verona is best enjoyed in one of
the city's many family-run restaurants or
fine-dining establishments. You can sample
gnocchi, risotto, tortellini and pastissade de
caval in many of the eating places around
Via Mazzini, Via San Sebastiano and Via
After the successive barbarian invasions
between the 5th and 10th Centuries,
Verona was finally made an independent
city at the beginning of the 13th Century.
After a long struggle against Frederico
Barbarossa(also known as"Redbeard" in
many mythological traditions), the city came
under the rule of the Scala family in 1260.
It was the Scala family who transformed it
into one of the most important kingdoms
of its time. It took in most of the Veneto,
as well as the large regions of Emilia and
Tuscany and was dotted with magnificent
buildings and stunning works of art.
In 1405, it became part of the Venetian
Republic. In 1796, it was occupied for six
months by Napoleonic troops. By 1801, the
French and the Austrians had successfully
divided Verona, and it was annexed by the
Habsburg Empire in 1814.
During the 19th Century, Verona took on an
important administrative and military role.
The city's defenses were reorganized and
strengthened: Verona became the principle
stronghold of the"Quadrilateral"(the
other three being Mantua, Peschiera and
Legnano) which became the pivotal point
of the Lombardy-Veneto defense structure
during the War of Independence. The
province of Verona officially became part of
the Kingdom of Italy in 1866.
There are several artistic spots to visit
around the city, the following are a few
which are not to be missed: the Piazza
dei Signori, which is a truly beautiful sight,
flanked by the Palazzo del Comune with
its neo-classical façade; the imposing
Medieval Torre dei Lamberti(272 feet/83
meters high); the Palazzo Tribunale,
or Palazzo del Capitanio, a Scaligieri
palace with a characteristically angular
tower(the Scaligeri ruled Verona from
1260 to 1387); the Loggia del Consiglio(a
splendid example of Veronese Renaissance
architecture) and the"Duomo"(cathedral).
This was built in the 12th Cenutry, on
the site of an early-Medieval church. It
underwent many renovations between
the 15th and 16th Centuries. The façade
successfully blends Roman and Gothic
architectural elements. Its gateway and
Roman entrance hall are beautiful. The
interior is Gothic and houses many
priceless artistic treasures including
an altar-piece by Tiziano depictingThe
139
Verona Snapshot continued
Assumption(1535), which is in the first
chapel on the left.
The Palazzo Pompei(now home to a
museum of natural history) was designed
by the architect Michele Sammicheli. In
fact, Sammicheli's work is quite visible
throughout the city as he was responsible
for its complete restructuring.
The Piazza delle Erbe(once the site of an
ancient Roman forum) is characterized by
monuments dating back to various periods
which stand opposite the market. It is also
home to the Arena- one of Verona's most
famous monuments. It was built in the
1st Century CE and has been expertly
preserved, thus making it one of the world's
most evocative and important operatic
theatres. The interior is elliptical and
measures 44.43 x 73.58m(146 x 241 ft).
The Castelvecchio is a splendid example of
military architecture. It was built towards the
end of the 14th Century, when the nobility
began to doubt the allegiance of the city.
Last but not least, is Juliet's House—where
Shakespeare's heroine was said to have
lived. It is now a place of pilgrimage for
many star-crossed lovers.
©
Hotel Insights
The first problem any visitor to Verona is
faced with is where to stay. This will depend
on a number of factors including the beauty
and location of the hotel, how much it costs,
etc.
Città antica The city center is full of all
different kinds of hotels. A good place to
start is from that famous symbol of Verona:
the Arena. On the Via Tre Marchetti, right
in front of the colossal monument, stands
the Giulietta e Romeo. Although it is not
extremely large, it has a conference room
that can be used for business meetings.
There is a second hotel on the same street:
the Milano, which offers fewer services, but
is cheaper. On the other side of the Arena,
on the Vicolo Listone, stands the Torcolo
which enjoys an excellent location. The
Cavour is on the Vicolo Chiodo. Moving
away from the Arena and heading towards
the centrally located Piazza delle Erbe, you
will find the extremely elegant Accademia
on the Via Scala, reserved for a very
discerning clientele. Still more luxurious is
the Gabbia d'Oro in Corso Porta Borsari,
which is probably the most beautiful hotel
in the city. Halfway between the two—both
in terms of quality and price—is the Victoria
in Via Adua. If, however, you would like
to spend a little less, and would be happy
with a less ostentatious hotel, the Touring
is ideal: it is extremely close to the Piazza
delle Erbe and offers an excellent selection
of services, at a price which is still fairly
high, but considerably more affordable than
the others. Finally, if you leave the Piazza
delle Erbe, and walk away from the Arena,
you will get to the Piazza Sant'Anastasia.
This is where the Due Torri Baglioni is
located.
Cittadella On the outskirts of the Città
antica is the area known as Cittadella,
which is where you will also find the Grand
Hotel and the Firenze, both of which
are situated on the Corso Porta Nuova.
Although these are situated in very close
proximity to each other, the difference
between them lies in the services offered.
The former is in a superior category—with
obvious consequences in relation to both
services offered and prices. The Mastino
is situated on the same street. It is a small
hotel with only 33 rooms, but still offers a
pleasant stay. All of these establishments
offer breakfast for its guests.
Borgo Milano One of the easiest ways
to get to Verona is by train, so the Porta
Nuova Station would make a good point of
departure. A stone's throw from here stands
the Novo Hotel Rossi which is very good
value for the money. For example, if you
are a football fan wishing to catch a Series
A match while in Verona, the Leopardi
and the San Marco hotels are both near
the football stadium. They both have a
fair-sized meeting room, with adequate
amenities. If looking for somewhere a bit
more secluded, there is the Montresor Hotel
Palace in Via Luigi Galvani.
Borgo Roma Before returning towards the
more central tourist areas, it is important
to point out several other places that may
be of interest. If, however you wish to stay
somewhere a little more secluded, you
could try the Sud Point, in Via Enrico Fermi.
©
Depending on your tastes and where you
like to go, Verona and its surrounding
areas have a lot to offer: there are large
establishments who go all out to be worthy
of their stars, forks or chefs hats; there are
traditional eateries, sometimes located in
the heart of the countryside, and finally
there are restaurants located in Garda
where first-class produce is at hand to
make sublime dishes.
Città antica If you are looking for major
names and don't mind splashing out then
head for Arche in Verona, where the fish
dishes on offer are worth dying for! Or you
could visit Desco(to try the veal and ginger
with leeks and fried sage).
San Michele Extra The Milio which is in
Verona and just outside the central section
of the city, does wonderful fish dishes
and after dinner relax under the beautiful
pergola, diners will often come here to
smoke after their meal. With this in mind,
the restaurant has a Cuban cigar list as well
as a list of spirits.
East of Verona Even traditional Veronese
cuisine can offer up some interesting
surprises, for instance, it is not unusual
to see horse meat. If seeing horse on the
menu,(maybe inpastissada) is a bit of
a"rediscovery" a dish containing donkey will
definitely be a new experience both as an
ingredient in a first course or as the main
ingredient in astracotto(normally a stewed
beef dish). Which restaurants can you go,
to try traditional fare? Well, the Gabbia
d'Oro on Isola della Scala is famous for
its risotti, which Tastasal is used to get the
correct level of piquancy in salami before
they are ready to go on sale. Alpone, in
Montecchia di Crosara, makesdolce di
tagliatelle(a sweet pasta dish). Bacco d'Oro
in Mezzane di Sotto is known foril brasato
all'Amarone(donkey braised in the local
Amarone wine).
140
South of Verona Outside the city on Isola
Rizza is the wonderful Perbellini, which
does everything well, but is legendary when
it comes to desserts, especially when they
bring in theoffelle(traditional sweet biscuits).
Coming here is definitely money well-spent;
in fact, it's a real investment, given that:
the guest(they are not called customers) is
treated like a king, the cuisine and the wine
cellar bring tears of emotion to the eye,
and service is absolutely first-rate. There
are also acclaimed dishes at Capucci in
Buttapietra; here you can try a traditional
dish known astastasal(a spiced pork mix).
While Castello in Valeggio makestorta
di grano saraceno(a buckwheat cake) to
tempt everyone. If you like to round off
your meal with a great dessert(and who
doesn't?), go for one at the Pergola di
Trevenzuolo they servei fogassin(dried
focaccia), at the Bottega del Vino di Verona
they prepare the Scaligera version of
thebudino diplomatico.
West& Towards Lake Garda Want to try
a recipe usingasino? Il Ponte in Brentino
Belluno is the place to go forstracotto
d'asino, or for those who want to be a little
more adventurous should try thefiletto
di struzzo(ostrich fillet) at Tamburino
Sardo in Sommacampagna. If you like to
indulge in cheese after your meal then
il Vèzzena(stored in an ancient cave in
barrels) in Sasso di Bovolone. At Pino
Due in Garda(also well known for their fish
recipes) they serve the traditional recipe
forSanvigilini with shortcrust pastry and
raisins., and at Dalla Rosa Alda they have
discovered a traditional recipepissota con
l'oio, focaccia cooked in the oven traditional
copper receptacles. The riches of Garda
include fish(naturally) and also olive oil;
the best restaurants actually have a list of
different oils for you to choose from. There
are also Malga cheeses and truffles from
Monte Baldo. The Porticciolo in Lazise
does afritto misto di lago(the choice of
fish used in this dish depends upon what
the fishermen have caught that morning).
In Peschiera del Garda, the Cantinone
specializes in trout. If you have never
tried couscous, then the Caval in Torri
del Benaco offers an intriguing fish and
couscous recipe.
©
Nightlife Insights
Opera Verona is a city which offers both
its residents and visitors many forms of
entertainment: from activities of a cultural
nature, to more simple pleasures; from
evocative operatic performances at the
Arena, to drinking sessions in elegant bars
in the historic city center. The Arena—an
ancient Roman amphitheatre—is the scene
of international performances during the
opera, ballet and musical season which
takes place every year.
Symphony During the winter, the
Philharmonic Theatre puts on magnificent
symphonic concerts, operas and operettas
as well as other performances with artists
who are more used to performing in
other fields e.g. the recent performance
of Antonio Albanese in"Giù al Nord."
The Teatro Estravagario specializes in
cabaret(most recently hosting Paolo Rossi),
dance performances(e.g. a tango company
from Buenos Aires) and pop concerts. The
Teatro Camploy is also host to cabaret and
musical performances.
Theatre The Veronesi are also fervent
theatre-goers: both in winter and summer.
There are always performances in
the Teatro Romano, and in winter,
performances are put on at the Teatro
Nuovo, which hosts well-known theatre
companies putting on two different types
of performance: light theatre(e.g. by
Daniele Luttazzi, Enzo Iacchetti, Cochi
and Renato), and performances with a
slightly heavier subject matter. Some of the
latest performances in this category have
included those by Gianrico Tedeschi, Turi
Ferro, Anna Proclemer and Glauco Mauri.
Cafés& Bars Cafés and bars offer an
alternative form of entertainment. There
are many of these all over the city, but the
most frequented ones tend to be in the
historic city centre: the Caffè delle Erbe,
(commonly known as the Mazzanti) is
definitely one of the most popular spots,
both due to its location(on the Piazza
delle Erbe, by the ancient Roman forum)
and due to the trendiness of its clientele
who like nothing better than to sit outside
in the summer sipping aperitifs with big
groups of friends, listening to(occasionally
live) music. Nearby, there is also the
Campidoglio(situated on the sight of the
ancient Roman Campodoglio, or Capitol).
This pretty café is situated in a small piazza
which, weather permitting, has lots of
visitors. The Rivamancina is also very
popular—people come here forbassotti,
beer and a variety of cocktails. Other good
drinking holes are the Vecia Veronetta
—a tavern which is open until 4a and
the Mascheron, which is situated on the
beautiful Piazza San Zeno. This place
is packed to the rafters both in summer
and in winter, but if you can't squeeze in,
theres always the piazza! The bar with the
most beautiful view has got to be the Bar al
Ponte, beside the Pietra bridge(the oldest in
Verona) which has a delightful little terrace
overlooking the Adige river and the Teatro
Romano. As you leave the city center area,
which is usually very lively and packed,
especially at the weekends, you will find the
Cà Lupa bar, where you can have a drink
and a snack(and be as loud as you want—
no one will mind!) and listen to music: Latin
on Friday nights, 1970s, 1980s and 1990s
with a DJ on Saturday nights and live music
during the summer.
Nightclubs A rundown of Verona's bars
and cafés could go on forever, so we will
now move on to nightclubs. Indisputably
the most famous of these, is the Alter Ego,
which is well-known for its music, the ones
that have been around the longest are
Berfi's and l'Excalibur—these are slightly
more commercial, but still really good
venues. Queen, in the city center, is always
packed at the weekend.
©
Lessinia could be on another planet. It is so
close to Verona, yet so diverse and varied.
It has a bit of everything: interesting natural
phenomena, museums and a population of
German origin, the Cimbri.
141
There is so much to do in this relatively
small region: it is ideal for the tourist who
is not in a hurry and would like a detailed
knowledge of their surroundings, but it
also makes an ideal destination for a
day(or even half-day) out. There are three
recommended itineraries: the first visits
the Alpone Valley, the second goes up to
Valpantena and the third explores western
Lessinia.
However, for those who have the
opportunity to visit Lessinia, the first step
should be to visit the Bosco Chiesanuova
Tourist Office to pick up some of the
abundant literature on Lessinia and its
Natural Park. Armed with this material,
each visitor can select particular areas of
interest and plan their visit accordingly.
For example, if you were interested in
natural phenomena, you could visit the
Covolo di Camposilvano, the Ponte di
Veja and the village of Bolca. These
are just a few places linked with the
geomorphological history of the region.
Alternatively, you could start by visiting
some of Lessinias museums: the
Museum of Cimbra Culture in Giazza,
the paleological museum in SantAnna
dAlfaedo, the ethnographical museum
in Bosco Chiesanuova, the geopaleontological museum in Camposilvano,
the fossil museum in Bolca and the trombini
museum(of antique rifles) in Selva di
Progno.
You could also find out more about the
Cimbri population. As well as visiting the
museums, you could attend a village
festival, such as the one at Camposilvano,
where you will be able to look at typical
costumes, listen to local dialect and hear
the thunderous shots of thetrombini.
Festival of Mushrooms in Roverè, the
Potato Festival in Cologna Veneta, the
Monte Veronese doc Cheese Festival in
Erbezzo, the Cherry Festival in Monteforte
dAlpone(where the Festival of Grapes is
always held) and the Montecchia di Crosara
Chestnut Festival at San Giovanni Ilarione.
Although they are not exactly festivals,
the annual Night Carnival in Monteforte
dAlpone, with its allegorical floats and
masks which parade past under the stars,
and the Midnight Mass which is celebrated
at the gigantic natural cathedral that is the
Covolo di Camposilvano are both worth a
mention.
If you are interested in local culture, there
is one aspect which is indispensible—the
cuisine. Lessinia is famous for truffles,
which you can try at Alla Ruota in Negrar,
as well as for mushrooms which you can
have at Alpone in Montecchia di Crosara.
There are also many regional specialities
such asmocetta di capra—a type of
sausage which you can try at the Torre in
Cologna Veneta.
If you fall for the various culinary delights,
you should be prepared to do something
about the accumulated calories. In the
summer, there are a variety of excursions
which can be undertaken through
Lessinia, either on foot(contact the Club
Alpino Italiano in Verona for details),
or by bicycle( the Amici degli Bicicletta
organisation in Verona can advise you
on the best routes). Speleology is not for
everyone, but anyone who is interested
can visit the speleological section of Cai di
Verona.
Air France(+39 848 884 466/http://
www.airfrance.com/)
Alitalia(+39 06 2222/http://
www.alitalia.com/)
Blue Air(+40 40 21 208 8686/http://
www.blueair-web.com/)
British Airways(+39 199 712 266/http://
www.british-airways.com)
Germanwings(+39 199 404 747/http://
www.germanwings.com/)
Lufthansa(+39 199 400 044/http://
www.lufthansa.com/)
Meridiana(+39 0789 52 682/http://
www.meridiana.it/)
RyanAir(+39 899 289 993/http://
www.ryanair.com/)
Transavia(+312 0406 0406/http://
www.transavia.com/)
Taxi
Taxies(+39 045 532 666) are located
outside the terminal of the arrivals hall. Bus
and shuttle services(+39 045 809 5666) are
available from 6:10a-11:30p.
Car Rental
In winter, you will be spoiled with choices:
there is alpine skiing, cross-country skiing,
snowboarding and ice skating on the rink at
Bosco Chiesanuova.
Rental car companies:
Lessinia is truly a hotbed of cultural activity
and beautiful natural phenomena.
©
Europcar(http://www.europcar.com)
Travel Tips
Getting There:
By Air:
The Verona Valerio Catullo
Airport(VRN)(+39 045 809 5666/http://
www.aeroportoverona.it/) is located 12km
from Verona's city center. Major airlines
include:
Air Dolomiti(+39 045 288 6140/http://
www.airdolomiti.it/)
Avis(http://www.avis.com)
Hertz(http://www.hertz.com)
By Train:
Italy's national train company,
Trenitalia(http://www.trenitalia.com/),
services Verona. The main station is the
Verona Porta Nuova, which offers lines to
Rome, Milan, Venice, Florence and more.
By Car:
Verona is accessible by the Serenisssima
Highway(A4) and by the Brener-Moderna
Highway(A22).
Getting Around:
Taxis(+39 045 532 666), local buses(+39
045 887 1111), and rental cars are all
popular modes of transportation in Verona;
142
however, the city is perhaps best seen by
foot.
©
Average Annual Rainfall: 33.9
City Code: 045
Average January Temperature: 35° F
Did You Know?
Average July Temperature: 74° F
William Shakespeare used Verona as a
setting for his legendaryRomeo and Juliet
andTwo Gentlemen of Verona.
Fun Facts
Quick Facts:
Verona
Major Industry: Agriculture, textiles, metals,
machinery, chemicals Electricity: 220 volts,
50 Hz; standard two-pin plugs
Country: Italy
Verona by the Numbers:
Population: 247,000
Elevation: 298 ft
Time Zone: GMT+ 1
Country Dialing Code: 39
Orientation:
Verona is located along the Adige River and
sits west of Venice.
©
143
Amalfi Snapshot
Local Info
Amalfi is the heart and soul of the
magnificent coastline stretching out along
the Bay of Salerno in southern Italy's
Campania region. Located just south of
Naples, the Amalfi Coast's mythic beauty
has been luring visitors to its rocky shores
since ancient times. Today it is one of Italy's
top tourist destinations, and one quick
glance at photographs will tell you why. For
a small seaside town, Amalfi has more than
its fair share of beauty. Being in Amalfi is a
feast for the senses – with its awe-inspiring
natural beauty, lovely beaches, colorful
architecture and delectable local cuisine.
Stepping foot in Amalfi, you'll find yourself
immediately a part of the town's vibrant and
warm beauty. Explore the narrow streets
and staircases winding through town, and
you'll begin to discover Amalfi's charms.
Arched walkways lead through dark twists
and turns before opening up into sunny little
piazzas. The scent of cooking fills the tiny
streets with the warmth and sensation of
home. Amalfi is a welcoming town in every
sense, and it's hard not to succumb to its
generous southern Italian hospitality.
Find your way to the central Piazza Duomo,
where the stunningCathedral of Sant'
Andrea sits atop a grand staircase watching
over the comings and goings of daily life
in Amalfi. This impressive church is one
of the many reminders that Amalfi was the
center of the rich and powerful maritime
Republic of Amalfi in the Middle Ages.
When you know a bit about the town's
captivatinghistory, you'll be able to spot
elements from its glorious past throughout
the town.
mesmerizing mix of warmth and vibrancy
that begs to be seen again and again. It's a
sensation to be discovered and savored in
every way in Amalfi!
© NileGuide
History
With pebbly beaches lined with rows of
colorful umbrellas, seaside restaurants and
tourists strolling along the narrow streets,
it's hard to imagine Amalfi as more than the
pretty seaside resort that it is today. Nature
seems to have perfectly adjusted to idea of
the town nestled in the ravine of the Valle
dei Mulini and set alongside the sea. Yet,
the history of Amalfi is far more remarkable
than today's tranquil setting suggests.
The majestic beauty of the Amalfi Coast
has always been irresistible. Greek
sailors admired the dramatic landscape,
even imagining parts of the coastline as
home to mythic creatures. Later wealthy
Roman patricians built seaside villas along
the coast and created some of the first
settlements. The first document tracing the
origin of Amalfi, dating from 596, is a letter
written by Pope Gregory I when the town
was a defensive point for the Byzantine
Duchy of Naples. Taking advantage of
a period of unrest in the region, Amalfi
declared itself a Republic in 839. This
small fishing town was about to take the
Mediterranean by storm.
Geographically located right in the middle
of the Amalfi Coast, Amalfi is an ideal
base for exploring nearby towns, such as
Ravello and Positano, and the island of
Capri. Seeing the Amalfi Coast by boat is a
must, and the port of Amalfi is conveniently
one of the main stops for ferries and jets
to Salerno, Positano, Capri, Sorrento and
Naples. Amalfi is also the transfer point for
public buses, makingtransportation to other
destinations on the Amalfi Coast a cinch.
By the time the Republics of Pisa, Genoa
and Venice were firmly established, Amalfi
traders were already navigating the waters
and trading throughout the Mediterranean.
At this time the town's small harbor was
full of sailing vessels that crisscrossed
the sea, reaching ports as far as Egypt,
Syria and Constantinople in the Byzantine
Empire. Amalfi had its own gold currency,
called theTarì, which was used in ports
throughout the Mediterranean, Africa,
the Greek Empire and the East. Amalfi's
influence on the seas is well documented
in theTabula Amalphitana, or the Amalfi
Tables, which established a maritime code
that used throughout the Mediterranean
until 1570.
After his visit to Amalfi in the late 19th
century, the American poet Henry
Longfellow described the town as
an"enchanted land." There is a sense of
something magical in Amalfi's beauty, a
Amalfi remained a rich and powerful
Republic until 1073 when it fell under
Norman control. Power was shifting in the
Mediterranean to the Republics of Pisa and
Genoa, both of which were eager to secure
their territory. Amalfi suffered two damaging
attacks by the Pisans in 1135 and again
two years later. Despite these setbacks,
Amalfi thrived intellectually and creatively
during the 12th and 13th centuries.
During this period, Amalfi sailors were
among the first to introduce the compass
for navigational purposes. The town's
impressiveDuomo was constructed during
this period, including the serene Cloister
of Paradise(1268) and the RomanesqueMoorish style Campanile(1180-1276).
Thanks to trading connections with the
East, by about the 1230s Amalfi became
one of the first locations in Europe to
produce paper. Sitting at the base of a
ravine with a fresh water source running
down the Valle dei Mulini(Valley of the
Mills), Amalfi was an ideal setting for
papermaking. Mills were powered by the
cool mountain water, and Amalfi's paper
was soon sold all over the Mediterranean.
Papermaking continued as an important
local trade throughout the Middle Ages and
Renaissance. Today you can visit the ruins
of the original mills as well as learn more
about the history of papermaking in Amalfi
at theMuseo della Carta(Paper Museum).
Amalfi's period of prosperity changed
drastically in the 14th century when the
town succumbed to the plague in 1306 and
1348. The trading economy was all but
ruined during a devastating sea storm in
1343 that destroyed the port, sailing ships
and much of the town. Amalfi's days as a
major maritime Republic were over, and
the town came under the rule of the nearby
Kingdom of Naples in the late 14th century.
Lacking military and trading influence, the
town slowly returned to a sleepy fishing
village. By the 19th century travelers from
throughout Europe began to rediscover
the history and beauty of the Naples
area on the Grand Tour. The wild and
seemingly untouched beauty of the Amalfi
Coast spoke to the romantic spirit of
these travelers, who found inspiration
in the scenes of daily life, the evocative
architecture and natural landscape. Writers,
poets, musicians and painters arriving
on the Amalfi Coast were stunned by its
natural beauty. The American poet Henry
Longfellow arrived in 1869 and later wrote a
poem entitled"Amalfi"(1875) inspired by his
time in the small fishing village.
144
Amalfi Snapshot continued
The Amalfi Coast remained isolated
geographically until the 19th century when
Ferdinand II, the Bourbon King of Naples,
commissioned the construction of a
road connecting the villages dotting the
coastline. The Amalfi Coast road reached
Amalfi by the middle of the century, and
this provided the access that today allows
countless tourists each year to experience
the beauty of the Amalfi Coast.
© NileGuide
Hotel Insights
The most difficult part about choosing a
hotel in Amalfi is picking from all of the
tempting options! Southern Italy is known
for its warmth and hospitality, and the
standard of service at Amalfi hotels is top
quality. If you're looking to splurge for a
special holiday, Amalfi is home to some of
the most beautiful five star hotels on the
Amalfi Coast.
TheHotel Santa Caterina offers a luxurious
and secluded getaway, with jaw dropping
views of Amalfi. Located just outside the
center of town, this hotel is perched on the
edge of the mountainside, with beautiful
gardened terraces, gorgeous honeymoon
suites, spa, saltwater pool and a private
beach.
Located in a 13th century monastery built
dramatically into the cliffs above Amalfi, the
Grand Hotel Convento is Amalfi's newest
five star luxury hotel. Completely remodeled
and reopened in 2009, this hotel is an oasis
of peace overlooking the harbor of Amalfi.
The décor is modern and restrained in
keeping with the historic significance of
the building, and the walls of the gorgeous
restaurant are decorated with historic
photos of Amalfi.
For another glimpse into Amalfi's past,
consider staying at theHotel Luna
Convento, which is located in a Franciscan
monastery dating from the early 13th
century. The cloister, dating from 1200, is
one of the most serene spots in Amalfi. The
hotel also features a restaurant and bar in
the adjacent 16th century watchtower. The
views at night are spectacular! Below the
tower is the hotel's pool with private access
to the sea.
Amalfi also caters to travelers on a
budget with its many boutique and locally
owned small hotels offering oodles of
Mediterranean charm without breaking the
bank. Located on a quiet little piazza in
the center of Amalfi, the Hotel Lidomare
is an excellent option. Just steps from the
Lido delle Sirene beach in Amalfi, the Hotel
Aurora is beautifully set between groves of
pine trees and the Mediterranean Sea.
For families traveling with younger children,
be sure to check if your hotel offers a
swimming pool as many of the smaller
hotels in Amalfi do not. This is a feature that
can be handy for young ones with lots of
energy and parents looking to relax in the
sun.
When you've arrived, kick back, relax and
get ready to enjoyla dolce vita Amalfi style!
© NileGuide
Dining is a true pleasure in Amalfi, one
worth slowing down and savoring every
bite. Eating by the sea with views of the
Amalfi harbor bustling with ferries and
boats is a wonderful experience. Along the
Amalfi Coast the cuisine is predominantly
Neapolitan, and you'll find many of the
same specialties and traditional desserts.
Naturally, many of the local specialties are
based on seafood, such asspaghetti con
vongole(spaghetti with clams) andpaccheri
alla pescatrice(large tube-shaped pasta
with monkfish).
You simply can't go wrong with any of the
restaurants lining the harbor in Amalfi. For
a more elegant setting, choose Marina
Grande or Lido Azzurro. Both offer excellent
menu options and a unique approach to
local specialties. Ristorante Il Tarì is located
on Amalfi's main street just steps from the
Piazza Duomo and is an excellent choice
for seafood and Amalfi specialties.
As in any town so close to Naples, there
is a stiff competition among the Amalfitans
as to where you can find the best pizza
in town. It goes without saying that you'll
be getting Neapolitan style pizza, and
you can expect to find all the classics,
including themargherita(topped with
tomatoes, mozzarella and basil) and
themarinara(topped with tomatoes, garlic,
oregano and sometimes anchovies). For
a good pizza in Amalfi, stop by Pizzeria
Donna Stella, which has a pretty outdoor
terrace for summer dining, or the Ristorante
Il Teatro, which is hidden away in the
charming small streets of Amalfi. Ristorante
Lo Smeraldino, located right on the water
in Amalfi, also makes great pizza – with
unbeatable views of Amalfi!
For a delicious quick bite to eat, stop by
La Galea not far from Piazza Duomo on
the main street Via Lorenzo d'Amalfi.
The service is friendly and the dishes are
as good as Italian home cooking.(And
that says a lot!) Many locals stop by this
restaurant for lunch as they also offer a
carry away service.
Don't just think Tuscany when it comes
to Italian wines. While you're visiting the
Amalfi Coast, be sure to try some of the
excellent wines produced in the region of
Campania. You don't need to be a wine
connoisseur to appreciate the lovely wines
made right on the Amalfi Coast, in the
towns of Ravello, Furore and Tramonti.
They pair wonderfully with the local dishes,
and it's a chance to taste grape varieties
you won't find back home.
A good meal is traditional finished off by
sipping a small glass oflimoncello, a strong
lemon liqueur made with the special variety
of lemons grown on terraces along the
Amalfi Coast. Another popular choice
isfinocchietto, a liqueur made from wild
fennel. Raise your glass and toast to a
lovely meal in Amalfi!
© NileGuide
Nightlife Insights
Amalfi's laid-back and classy nightlife scene
might not appeal to young travelers in
search of a lively club scene after dark.
Yet, summertime is when the city comes
to life at night. For the local Amalfitans,
long afternoons on the beach stretch
into relaxed dinners overlooking the sea.
There's no better way to round off a warm
summer evening than by enjoying drinks
with friends as the night lights sparkle
across the harbor.
The most popular spot for enjoying
anaperitivo before dinner or drinks after is
theBar Gran Caffè, which offers outdoor
seating overlooking the sea. Locals know
a good spot when they find it, and you'll be
sitting alongside Amalfitans at this popular
café. A good spot for people watching
Italian style is at the Bar Francese, located
just opposite the beautiful Duomo of Amalfi.
The bar offers outdoor seating in the Piazza
Duomo or elegant seating indoors. If you
have a sweet tooth, stop by the Pasticceria
145
Pansa, also located in Piazza Duomo,
which makes delectable pastries and
chocolates.
pool, which easily makes up for the small
size of the beach.
During the summer, especially the busy
months of July and August, concerts are
often held in the serene Cloister of Paradise
in theDuomo on weekends. The town
also presents a series of outdoor films
during this period, many geared toward a
younger audience. Movies are projected
on a temporary screen, and the setting
under large umbrella pines along the sea is
charming.
Just steps from the beach is the Piazza
Duomo, Amalfi's largest piazza, which is
the hub of daily life in town. Surrounded
by many fine cafés and gelato shops, this
is the spot in town to sit back, relax and
watch all the comings and goings in this
small, but lively little town. Sitting atop a
grand staircase is theDuomo of Amalfi.
Dedicated to Sant' Andrea(St. Andrew),
this cathedral is one of the most beautiful
churches in southern Italy. Don't miss
visiting the serene 13th-century Cloister of
Paradise, the Duomo Museum filled with
exquisitely detailed reliquaries and artwork,
the crypt of Sant'Andrea and the interior of
the church.
Families traveling with young children
will enjoy the after dinnerpasseggiata, or
walk, along the waterfront. Small piazzas
are turned into areas for children to romp
around, playcalcio(soccer) and burn off
energy before bed. Children are treasures
in Italy, and you'll find them welcomed and
often doted on by the locals.
Amalfi's nightlife scene moves at an
easygoing pace, one that embraces
wholeheartedlyla dolce vita, or the sweet
life. Slow down and enjoy relaxed evenings
along the Mediterranean, and you'll get
a good taste of daily life in this beautiful
seaside town!
© NileGuide
One of the pleasures of visiting Amalfi
is simply to relax and soak up the warm
Mediterranean sun. During the summer
months the beaches in Amalfi are the
places to be, and you can expect to find
locals and visitors lounging in the beautiful
setting and swimming in the sea. Here are
some tips for enjoying your time in Amalfi –
on and off the beach!
Hitting the Beach
Amalfi's largest and most popular beach is
called Marina Grande, which is located at
the eastern end of town. The beach is lined
with several restaurants, all of which offer
sun bed and umbrella rentals. For a more
secluded experience, head to the Le Sirene
beach on the opposite end of town just
beyond the port. The beach is named after
the Lido delle Sirene restaurant overlooking
the rocky beach, which also offers sun
bed and umbrellas for rent. The Ristorante
La Marinella has a small beach area very
popular with locals. The water here is
wonderfully clear and is often as calm as a
Things to See and Do
Amalfi is the first place in Europe where
paper as we know it today was produced.
There are several fine shops in Amalfi
where you can buy beautiful paper that
is still handmade in Amalfi. To find out
more about the papermaking tradition in
Amalfi, visit theMuseo della Carta(Paper
Museum) where you'll learn about the
process of paper production and see the
many different machines and tools used
throughout Amalfi's history.
In the center of Piazza Flavio Gioia by the
waterfront stands a statue of Flavio Gioia,
who is said to have first perfected the use
of the compass for navigating in the Middle
Ages.
Hiking Around Amalfi
There are many excellent hiking paths
around Amalfi for travelers who want to
explore the other side of the Amalfi Coast –
the mountains. Hiking paths lead up into the
Valle dei Mulini(Valley of the Mills) where
you can see the ruins of Amalfi's once
busy paper mills. The lush scenery, cold
mountain stream and waterfalls seem a
world away from the hot, pebbly beaches
just below. Another beautiful walk follows
the ancient staircase from Amalfi up to the
village of Pontone and to Scala high in the
mountains above. The views of Amalfi and
the mountain valley are gorgeous.
Shopping
The main streets and piazzas of Amalfi
are lined with all kinds of shops, from
those selling the normal tourist items to
fine ceramics, jewelry and clothing. Stop
by La Scuderia del Duca, which has two
beautiful shops, for the best selection of
Amalfi's handmade paper, including fine
stationary, handmade journals and art
prints. Limoncello, the signature lemon
liqueur made on the Amalfi Coast, is sold
in shops throughout town. Some will even
offer you a taste before you buy. Ceramics
are another local specialty, and Amalfi has
many shops with a good selection of locally
produced pieces.
Markets
Market day in Amalfi is every Wednesday
morning. From the Piazza Duomo, follow
the main street of Amalfi that leads up into
the valley. Keep going up and up and you'll
arrive at the market area. Stalls sell clothing
and shoes, fruit and vegetables, fish, olives
and dried foods, items for the home, fabrics
and tablecloths, and just about anything
else you can imagine. While many of the
items on sale might not appeal to the visitor,
visiting the market is an interesting cultural
experience and a chance to see how the
locals shop.
Holidays and Events
Amalfi's patron saint and protector is Sant'
Andrea(St. Andrew), whose relics are
housed in the beautiful crypt of theDuomo.
The town has two major celebrations each
year to honor of their saint, and they are
the most vibrant and moving days to be in
Amalfi. Celebrations take place on June
27th in remembrance of when Sant' Andrea
is said to have miraculously brought on
a storm that prevented the town from
being sacked by the pirate Barbarossa
on June 27, 1544. The town's saint is
also celebrated on the traditional feast
day for Sant' Andrea on November 30th.
A beautiful statue of the Sant' Andrea is
carried through the town in a procession
leading down the grand staircase of the
Duomo, through the town and down to the
beach to bless the harbor. The procession
culminates in the impressive running of the
statue up the staircase to the Duomo. It's a
sight not to be missed! Both evenings are
capped of with large fireworks displays after
dark.
Amalfi rings in the summer season with
another vibrant religious festival that takes
place on June 13th for Sant'Antonio da
Padova(Saint Anthony of Padua). The
procession begins from the church of
Sant' Antonio, located near the Hotel Luna
Convento in Amalfi, and continues to the
neighboring village of Atrani. From there
146
the procession, including the statue and
marching band, travels by boats to Amalfi
where it continues through town and back
to the church. There is a fireworks display
after dark, which is wonderful to see while
dining by the water in Amalfi.
Iberworld Airlines( http://
www.iberworld.com/)
months, be aware that boat services are
extremely limited.
Lufthansa(http://www.lufthansa.com/)
By Car
Meridiana(http://www.meridiana.it/)
Amalfi knows how to do fireworks, and they
pull out all the stops for their grand display
at midnight on Capodanno(New Year's
Eve). Celebrations take place all over town,
but everyone heads to the harbor before
midnight to ring in the new year.
Sky Europe(http://www.skyeurope.com/
in.php/)
To reach Amalfi by car, take the A3
autostrada south out of Naples toward
Salerno and exit at Vietri sul Mare. Follow
the signs for SS163, which is the Amalfi
Coast Road. It is approximately 25 km(16
miles) to Amalfi.
As the historic heart and soul of the
maritime Republic of Amalfi in the Middle
Ages, the town of Amalfi celebrates this
important heritage each summer by
competing in the Regata Storica delle
Antiche Repubbliche Marinare(Historic
Regatta of the Sea Republics) against
Pisa, Genoa and Venice. The location
rotates between the four cities, with
the most recent regatta in Amalfi in
2008. Being in Amalfi for the regatta is a
wonderful experience. The town hosts a
historic parade, with costumed characters
representing each of the four Republics.
The 2011 regatta will be held in Venice.
© NileGuide
Travel Tips
Getting to Amalfi
Amalfi is located 25 km(16 miles) west of
Salerno and 70 km(43 miles) southeast
of Naples. There are many options for
how to arrive in Amalfi, but it can be a little
complicated for first time visitors. Knowing
the options and making your travel plans in
advance will start your trip to Amalfi off on
the right foot.
By Air
The Naples Capodichino International
Airport(NAP) is the nearest airport to the
Amalfi Coast, and it offers national and
international arrivals and departures(http://
www.gesac.it/en/). The following airline
carriers offer flights to the Capodichino
airport:
Alitalia(http://www.alitalia.com/)
Air France(http://www.airfrance.com/)
British Airways(http://www.ba.com/)
Condor(http://www7.condor.com/)
Easy Jet(http://www.easyjet.com/)
Hapag-Lloyd Express(http://www.hlx.com/)
Helvetic.com(http://www.helvetic.com/)
My Travel(http://www.mytravel.com/)
From the Airport
Amalfi is about a 90 minute drive from
the Naples Capodichino airport. The
easiest(and least stressful!) way to reach
any destination on the Amalfi Coast from
the Naples airport or train station is to
hire a taxi for a private transfer. While it
might seem an extravagant expense, the
advantages far outweigh the cost. Driving
in the Naples area and on the Amalfi Coast
road is highly stressful at best. Since
public transportation on the Amalfi Coast
is easy to use and affordable and parking
is expensive and very limited, renting a car
is not recommended in general. However,
taking public transportation from Naples
to Amalfi can be complicated for first time
visitors. Arranging for a private transfer
reduces the stress of arriving on the Amalfi
Coast, and eliminates the expenses and
difficulties of driving in the area.
By Train
The train stations in Naples and
Salerno are the closest to Amalfi. If
you're continuing to Amalfi by public
transportation, the Salerno station is
recommended. Public SITA buses to Amalfi
stop regularly right outside the train station.
The bus ride is about an hour and the
final stop is Amalfi. Or, it is a short walk
to the Porto Turistico near Piazza della
Concordia where you can catch a ferry
service to Amalfi. If you arrive in the Naples
train station and wish to continue to Amalfi
via public transportation, transfer to the
Circumvesuviana train line to Sorrento.
Outside the Sorrento train station SITA
buses regularly depart for Amalfi. The ride
is nearly and hour and a half, but the bonus
is that you'll get a good view of the Amalfi
Coast along the way.(Sit on the right side
for the best views!)
By Boat
Arriving in Amalfi by boat is the most
scenic option. You can find ferry and
jet connections to Amalfi from Naples,
Sorrento and Salerno. If you are traveling
off season, especially during the winter
Getting Around Amalfi
Walking
Amalfi is a small town and the best way
to navigate its narrow alleys and maze
of steps is on foot. You'll want to pack
comfortable shoes for climbing the stairs
and walking on the cobblestone streets!
It's hard to get lost in Amalfi since most
paths lead to or from the main piazzas or
streets. However, stop by the local tourist
office for maps and visitor information. The
office is well marked and located inside
the courtyard of the Palazzo di Città on the
Corso delle Repubbliche Marinare 19.(Tel.
089 871107)
Bus
The local buses on the Amalfi Coast are
operated by SITA, and Amalfi is the main
transfer point on the coastline. Buses to
Sorrento, Salerno and to Ravello/ Scala
and other destinations depart from Piazza
Flavio Gioia. You will need a Unico Costiera
ticket before boarding the bus. Tickets are
not sold on the bus, so it can be handy
to purchase your return ticket before
departing. Tickets are sold at any tabacchi
shop in the following time increments: 45
minutes €2.40, 90 minutes €3.60, 24 hours
€7.20, 3 days €18.00. When you get on
the bus, be sure to validate your ticket by
sticking it in the machine behind the driver
that stamps it with a date and time.
Taxi
Taxis can be hired in Piazza Flavio
Gioia if you need transportation to other
destinations on the Amalfi Coast.(Tel. 089
872239)
Cars
Driving in Amalfi is limited to the Amalfi
Coast road that runs through town(called
the Corso delle Repubbliche Marinare),
around the port area and only on the
main road that runs up into the valley
from Piazza Duomo. While you're staying
in Amalfi you won't need to use a car to
147
explore the town, so be sure to check at
your hotel or bed& breakfast about parking
availability and costs if you plan to arrive
with a car. Driving on the Amalfi Coast
road to other towns is recommended for
experienced and confident drivers only. The
narrow and twisty roads, large tourist buses
and bold local drivers(and sometimes
herds of sheep and goats!) can make the
experience stressful for visitors. Yet, it
is surely one of Europe's most beautiful
drives, so if you're up for a truly Italian
adventure, go for it!
© NileGuide
Fun Facts
3. The symbol of Amalfi is a white eightpointed cross. Also know as the Maltese
Cross, this is also the symbol of the Order
of the Knights of Malta, which was founded
in the Middle Ages by Gerardo Sasso from
Scala, a town high in the mountains above
Amalfi.
4. Amalfi is one of the first places
wherepaper as we know it today was made
in Europe.
5. Interesting fact: The statue in the center
of Piazza Flavio Gioia is dedicated to Flavio
Gioia who is thought to have invented
or perfected the compass for maritime
navigation.
1. The annual feast days for Amalfi's
patron saint and protector Sant' Andrea(St.
Andrew) fall on June 27th and November
30th.
6. The façade of theDuomo was built from
1871-91 and was designed by Neapolitan
architect Errico Alvino. The previous façade
collapsed on Christmas eve in 1861.
2. Fun fact: There are 62 steps from the
piazza to the top of theDuomo.
7. Random fact: There are two elaborate
nativities created in fountains in Amalfi each
year for Christmas. One is located inPiazza
dello Spirito Santo and the other inLargo
Scario.
8. The relics of Sant' Andrea arrived in
Amalfi on May 8, 1208.
9. Every year in June, Amalfi competes
in theRegata Storica delle Antiche
Repubbliche Marinare(Historic Regatta of
the Sea Republics) against Pisa, Genoa
and Venice.
10. Weird fact: A miraculous event occurs in
Amalfi each year when the Manna of Sant'
Andrea appears on a vial.
11. The 2004 movie"A Good Woman" with
Helen Hunt and Scarlett Johansson was
filmed in Amalfi.
12. In the 11th century Amalfi sailors
created theTabula Amalphitana, a maritime
code that was used in the Mediterranean
until the 16th century.
© NileGuide
148

My Italy by camper Guide

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