Read the complete article - Coastline Motorcycle Adventure Tours

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BackRoads: Wild West Canada
BackRoads: Taking The High Road
Picture This: Rocky Mountain Highs
Spotlight: Turkey Creek Tours of Colorado
Spotlight: Coastline Tours of Vancouver
Around The Bend: Boy Howdee!
Fork In The Road: Mudbugs
The Insurance Corner: Do you like to gamble?
What is a biker? Randy “Ace” Kashdan
Music Notes: J.T. Coldfire
Gotcha’
GoDometer: How to choose a guided motorcycle tour
Ridin on the cheap
the Xtra Mile Touring Tips: Planning your trip
All Roads Lead Somewhere
The View From Here: Lake Louise, Canada
Motorcycles: On The Road AgainTM
Published by
Costar MediaTM
16305 Westheimer Rd.#103
Houston, Texas 77082
Phone 281-597-8814
Fax 832-379-8740
larry@getontheroadagain.com
For subscription information call
or visit us on the web:
GETONTHEROADAGAIN.COM
Staff & Credits
Publisher/Editor: Larry Gore
Co-Editor: Carmen Juch
Art Director: Christopher Gore
Writers: Amy Edgerly, Sue Haley, Sharon Feldman,
David Devlin, Lynn Matthews, David Graham,
Tom Matthews, Sue Haley, Carmen Juch, Dale
Borgeson, Lisa Breen
Photography: David Graham, Tom Matthews,
Amy Edgerly, Carmen Juch, Larry Gore, Chris
Gore, Twist-A-Grip Group
Life is change and so it would
seem is the life of a magazine. There
are many things that change over
time in the development of a magazine. You add some things, you take
out others; you experiment to see
what works and what your readers
want.
We began over 10 years ago in
cessful than we ever imagined. We
and soon our readers will find Motor-
1995, as bikertrash.com an on-line
have had the opportunity to provide
cycles: On The Road Again on news
magazine, then, in 2003, we pro-
travel information on places ranging
stands in all 50 states and throughout
gressed to working on the Lone Star
from the Blue Ridge Parkway to the
Canada in locations such as Barnes
Biker, a print motorcycle travel mag-
Big Sur and from the Texas Hill Coun-
& Noble, Borders, Hastings, B. Dal-
azine for Texas. After publishing for
try to Route 66.
ton, Office Max, Gander Mountain,
about a year we began to realize
Waldenbooks and more.
that limiting the magazine to motor-
In this issue we have crossed into
cycling in Texas would keep us within
the international travel scene with a
The most important thing to us
the boundaries of the state, but we
major feature on motorcycle touring
though is that we keep the magazine
found our readers did not limit their
in the Canadian Rockies that truly il-
useful and entertaining to our read-
riding to within the state!
lustrates the beauty of riding in that
ers and that we provide the kind of
cided that we needed to go where
We de-
area.
information that makes traveling by
are readers had gone, were going
continue to expand in our July/Au-
or wanted to go.
gust issue with coverage of touring
Thus, after much thought and
consideration,
the
decision
The international flavor will
motorcycle even more fun.
New Zealand and a trip to Copper
Let us know the articles that you
Canyon, Mexico. The world is a big
enjoy and what material you would
was
place and we want to bring it all to
like to see us improve or expand
made to change the name to On
you as you make plans for your next
upon. Our readers are our most im-
The Road Again to reflect a broader
great adventure in motorcycling.
portant assets and we will continue
coverage area and to then begin to
to listen to you and welcome your
publish more articles and photos of
As our coverage has expanded, so
comments, suggestions and your
exciting motorcycle touring oppor-
has our distribution. We are pleased
stories about your motorcycle rides,
tunities, wherever they might occur.
to announce that we just complet-
wherever they may take you!
ed contract negotiations with an
long as you get Motorcycles: On The
international magazine distributor
Road Again!
This change has been more suc-
As
Vancouver
Touring British Columbia
in Western Canada
do between the decision to go and
Sharon Feldman & David Devlin
since we did pay in-full, up-front one
We met up in Vancouver with
foremost thought was “Would these
three other couples from Australia
guys actually show up?”
and Germany, along with the Coast-
actually arriving in Vancouver but
Everyone knows that the antici-
line guys, David Graham and John
pation of a vacation sometimes ex-
The tour offered was a trip from
Bigalke. We spent that Sunday get-
ceeds the reality of the trip. Last year,
Vancouver BC through the Rock-
ting to know our travel mates, and
my riding partner, Sharon, and I were
ies and back. It was to last 8 days,
took a ride around the city and up
lucky to find a motorcycle tour of-
and included everything you could
into the hills to see the sites.
fered by Coastline Motorcycle Tours
want in a motorcycle tour. The price
& Rentals of Victoria British Colum-
was right, and after speaking to Da-
There were seven bikes including
bia where this was certainly not the
vid Graham from Coastline we were
David Graham and his wife Carmen.
case. We had such a wonderful time
convinced this was the vacation of
David also had two assistants; John
it is hard to describe by using mere
a lifetime.
was the mechanic, who drove the
words.
After months of agonizing,
truck towing a three-rail trailer. Our
we had decided to take a chance
It didn’t take long for us to believe
luggage went in the truck. Sharon
and do the tour they offered in Brit-
we had reached motorcycle-riding
and I were two-up on a Road King
ish Columbia. There was so much to
heaven.
Classic. Jeff helped John with the
8
On The Road Again - May / June 2006
driving and taking care of our luggage and the bikes.
The weather had been horrible
for the past few weeks, up to and
including Sunday, but there seemed
to be a promise in the air to clear up
later and to be perfect riding weather conditions by Monday. There was
a welcoming banquet that evening
and we then retired for the night in
anticipation of our first day in the
saddle.
Vancouver to Kelowna
We had a mid-morning departure from Vancouver and followed
a variety of roads, including industrial, rural, freeway, and then up into
the foothills of the mountains. We
followed the Coquihalla Hwy from
Chilliwack through Merritt, over the
connector and down into Kelowna.
The route through the Fraser River
Canyon is an incredible engineering
feat, straddling both sides of the river
with National and privately owned
railways. We were only an hour and
a half out of Vancouver and already
climbing quite dramatically. There
were huge mountains rising on either
side of a narrow, twisty road.
We reached the canyon town of
Lytton; the temperature had risen
to about 95. All the way to Spence’s
Bridge we glanced down to the river
Thompson and traveled through the
David just chuckled and said: “There
and watched the whitewater rafters.
Nicola Valley to Merrit. From there
are a lot of other big ranges before
We stopped for lunch in what was a
we climbed yet again and down
we even see the Rockies.”
perfect spot to view the rafts coming
into the beautiful Okanagan Valley.
down the Thompson River from the
northeast.
We headed east and left the
Some highlights of the day, we
At dinner that evening, being
saw the fish ladders built for the mi-
from the east coast, we inquired
grating salmon, watched mountain
whether these were the Rockies and
sheep perching on the crags above
9
THIS PAGE : G L ACIER N ATIO N A L PA RK - CA N A DA
NE X T PAGE : HELL’S GATE
us, dodged the odd “free range”
we stared at one spectacular view
several casting rods so we had a
doggies wandering the highway
after the other while riding the gen-
chance to learn how to fly cast. We
and enjoyed some of the best riding
tly sweeping roads. We made sever-
didn’t catch anything that day but
ever!
al stops in little towns along the way.
it was an enjoyable experience for
us city folk.
Kelowna to Nelson
The first stop we made was a
More
The evening was spent in Nelson
This day had us riding southeast
place called “Hell’s Gate”.
water pours through this beautiful
on Kootenay Lake where, after a
on a secondary road, a two lane
gorge then over Niagara Falls and
great dinner and conversation, we
twisty through small towns and along
from the sound it makes, I certainly
hit the sack dreaming of tomorrow’s
the Kettle River. We traveled north
believe it. We rode the tram (cable
ride.
on Hwy #5, following the Thompson
car) at Hell’s Gate.
Nelson to Revelstoke
River and the Canadian National
Railway line. This is natural untamed
John, of Coastline, is also an avid
country with plenty of wildlife and
fisherman and had brought along
10
The morning sunrise over the
mountains took our breath away.
have had 23 “bawdy” houses during
we headed north again, through
After a hearty breakfast, we pulled
the boom. Most of it burned down
Nakusp and on to Galena Bay to
out. Our course today is Route 31 out
some time ago, but there are still a
catch the lake ferry operated as
of Nelson to Kalso then over to route
few residents, a museum, a general
part of the highway system to Shelter
31A with a stop at Sandon, picking
store, and an electric company. No
Bay and then on to Revelstoke. At
up Route 23 into Revelstoke. One
more bawdy houses in operation,
the ferry I learned that here in British
section of this trip is only 50 miles but
though there was still a sign on one
Columbia, motorcycles board and
must have had a hundred curves!
of the houses.
unload first on all the ferry systems; a
civilized system I think.
One of the first stops was an old sil-
We stopped at Ainsworth Hot
ver mining ghost town that went from
Springs, perched on a cliff above
Once again, this part of the
boom to bust in a 22 year period. We
Kootenay Lake. The views were in-
country affords the viewing of such
were not able to ride up to the town,
credible.
wildlife as bear, moose, elk, moun-
so we parked at the bottom of the
tain goats and Rocky Mountain big
road and climbed into the back of
Some of this route is closed in the
horned sheep. Continuing north, we
the truck. One of the statistics about
winter as there’s not enough traffic
arrive in the railway town of Revel-
Sandon was that it was supposed to
to justify plowing. At New Denver,
stoke for the evening. Revelstoke is
11
a major railway town, heli-ski resort
tion and according to David, had
in winter and in the center of thou-
only just put in an elevator. We had
sands of square miles of wilderness.
another great evening discussing
We visited the railway museum and
the day’s ride, even more great food
had the “virtual experience” of be-
and then in bed to bring a faster
ing the engineer on an old steam
arrival to tomorrow’s riding adven-
engine.
tures.
The Regent Inn is a heritage rail-
Revelstoke to Banff
way hotel and has a great Swiss chef
and a wonderful dining room. They
Off we go today on the Trans Can-
had just finished a two-year restora-
ada Highway over the mountains
and through Rogers’ Pass, Golden
and then over 1A into Lake Louise
and down to Banff.
Surely these were the Rockies?
No, these were the Purcell Ranges
and we started climbing even more
dramatically.
Although the traffic became a
bit denser, we didn’t experience
any delays as there are many passing lanes. The route had many snow
sheds over the road because in
winter there are many avalanches.
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THIS PAGE CLOCK W ISE FROM LEF T: RIDING CA N A DA • SLOCA N L A K E • GROUP AT L A K E LOUISE
PRE V I OUS PAGE CLOCK W ISE FROM TOP LEF T: TA K K A K K AW FA LLS • GREENWOO D • CA PUCINO TIM E • HOT SPINGS IN BA NFF
Right along the shoulder of the high-
the western outflow of the Columbia
a boisterous dinner at a local steak
way we’d often see herds of moun-
Ice Fields.
house.
tain goats.
Continuing back once again onto
Banff to Mount Robson
In the town of Golden we stopped
Route 1, we climbed another sec-
for lunch. The surrounding peaks glis-
tion, over the Continental Divide. At
After breakfast, we took a brief
tened with snow even though it was
one point we stopped, climbed up
ride through the town and at a sce-
summer.
Looking eastward, we fi-
a hill and from there you could see
nic viewpoint; we were looking at
nally caught our first glimpse of the
how the small creeks were running
world famous Banff Springs Hotel.
Rocky Mountains. They are breath-
west and east. Quite amazing! On
We headed back west on Route 1
taking! Just before the Kicking Horse
the last leg, we saw a bear up in a
to Lake Louise and had a few photo
Pass and the Continental Divide, we
tree on the way in, but it is not safe to
ops. This beautiful turquoise colored
took a short detour off the highway
stop for a photo. By the time we got
lake is stunning.
to Takkakaw Falls, the second high-
to Banff it was clear and warm. We
est waterfall in North America. This is
arrived at The Rundlestone Lodge in
Leaving Lake Louise, we traveled
a huge drop these falls make and is
Banff, checked in and then went for
north again up the Banff-Jasper
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CLOCK W ISE FROM TOP LEF T: THE R AINBOW ENDS AT BA NFF • NE A R BA NFF • THE
BEEHIVE AT L A K E LOUISE • VA NCOUVER , B.C.
14
highway. This has to be one of the
most beautiful roads I’ve ever traveled. Incredible mountain ranges
loomed on both sides of the road.
About fifty miles up the road are the
Columbia Ice Fields. We stopped
and walked on the glacier.
We had a picnic lunch that magically appeared from the truck and
then continued on to Jasper. Along
the way, we saw herds of Big Horn
Mountain Sheep and Goats, Elk and
Black Bear. You have to be careful
along this road as the tourists stop
their RV’s and cars anywhere they
can to take photos (whether there’s
room on the side of the road or not!)
David and John had warned us
about this so we were watchful.
From Jasper, we headed west on
Highway 16 for about fifty miles and
reached our destination for the evening. Mountain River B&B, literally
at the foot of Mt. Robson, has to be
one of the nicest places we’ve ever
been. Tucked a few hundred yards
off the road, it felt as if you were in
the absolute middle of wild country.
You could hear the gurgle of Swift
Current Creek as it flowed back of
the lodge. After a sumptuous dinner
prepared by our hostess, Claudia,
we went outside and had a fire in
the BBQ pit and smoked cigars.
Saturday dawned with beautiful
weather, clear and cool. A complete,
breakfast
During our lunch stop we watched
awaited us all. We ran west for a few
European
a cow moose and two of her calves
miles then south at the junction of 16
munching on lily pads in thigh deep
and Highway 5. This route follows the
water.
North Thompson River through towns
every section of road we traveled
perched on the top of a mountain
such as Blue River, Clearwater and
seemed to be made for motorcy-
affording the most incredible night
Little Fort.
cling.
view of Kamloops below.
style
I know it’s repetitious but
That night we arrived in Kamloops.
The
hotel,
once
again,
was
15
TOP LEF T: RUNDLE MOUNTAIN A BOVE BA NFF
16
BOT TOM JUST K EEPS GET TING BET TER AS WE NE A R THE ROCKIES
Another great day. What a ride,
what a place!
To ride in from Calgary Friday After-
while riding, while we were getting
noon. Sharon and I went downtown
ready to go, a small group of elk with
for a little shopping. It seemed that
some young ones came onto the
most of the shops were either na-
Hotel grounds and grazed.
Free Day in Banff,
tional type clothing stores, or local
off to the Ice Fields
tourist shops catering to the Japa-
Marty took up the lead on this
nese crowd. Sharon was looking for
portion of the trip and I dropped in
This was a day to relax, and catch
a charm for her bracelet, and finally
behind him. Now Marty also likes to
our breath. So we decided we would
found one in a nice little store tucked
go fast but I did manage to keep
take a little motorcycle ride by our-
away off the main street.
two seconds behind him all the way
selves. We figured 270 miles should
to the first stop. At our first stop, Mar-
be pretty relaxing. We left about
ty, got sent to the back of the pack
9am, and drove back towards Lake
Banff to Calgary the Long way
Louise, and picked up Hwy 93 north
for going too fast, and being a bad
influence on me. Darn I missed him.
to the Columbia Ice Fields. You can
Saturday dawned with beautiful
walk on a glacier at the ice fields,
weather, clear and cool. This was the
We stopped for lunch at Rocky
and that sounded like fun.
last day of the motorcycle trip. We
Mountain House. From there it was
were scheduled to leave around 10
pretty much freeway on into Cal-
Highway 93 was the most beau-
a.m. We were to take the Banff-Jas-
gary. Marty got out of the doghouse
tiful Highway I have ever been on.
per Parkway, and then Hwy 93 to the
and started to lead again. I was still
You could see for miles up between
Columbia Ice Fields again. The area
in the back. When we hit the free-
two mountain ranges.
is where the headwaters of the Co-
way, he and Jeff and John started
lumbia River form. At the Saskatche-
to pull out from the group. Not be-
As we were leaving the Glacier,
wan River Crossing we headed east
ing one to miss a little speed, I pulled
Chuck, Brent, and Kevin were just
following the Saskatchewan River to
out and caught up with them. I re-
driving up. We continued down to
Rocky Mountain House, then South
member seeing the number 85 mph
the gas station, and then stopped
on Highway 22 on into Calgary a to-
on my speedometer for awhile, but
for lunch. We arrived back in Banff
tal of about 250 miles.
most of the time I just kept 2 seconds
about 3pm. David was expecting
behind the guy in front. After about
his partner Marty, and his friend Rox-
Wildlife is everywhere up here
30 miles of this we pulled off the
ane, Marty’s son, and his girlfriend.
and you have to always be vigilant
freeway to make sure the Buells had
17
BackRoads; Wild West Canada
BELOW: WELLS GR AY PA RK
enough fuel. Good thing we did, a
couple of guys on a rice burner said
there was a cop with an attitude
down the road.
Whistler to Vancouver
So, it’s sad, all good things must
come to an end. The last day’s ride
was the shortest as it’s only about
100 miles from Whistler to Vancouver
but there was plenty to see along
the way. At several points, the road
literally clung to the side of looming
mountains rising from the sea. It was
a challenging ride.
18
the bikes loaded on the truck and
trailer and were ready to head back
to their base on Vancouver Island.
It was a wonderful experience,
one that Sharon and I will remember the rest of our lives. The stunning
scenic beauty, the challenging rides
and the camaraderie are all memories that will be forever etched in our
minds. We are already considering
destinations for future trips – and
we know that they can be fun – but
these eight days with Coastline Tours
in British Columbia will always be a
high standard against which we will
judge other tours and other tour operators.
We have since kept in touch with
the folks we shared this trip with and
can’t forget the attention to our safety and comfort provided by Coastline. We plan on returning for their
“Totem Tour” of Vancouver Island.
Yes, a paved road can be the
path to enlightenment.
Editor’s Note: Coastline Motorcycle Adventure Tours has been in the
motocycle tour business for 10 years.
During that time many riders have
enjoyed the experience of riding
through this rugged and incredible
country with David, Carmen and
the rest of the crew.
As we neared the city, we took
Sheraton Hotel, it was hard to be-
Remember that if you want to en-
one last side trip up to one of the
lieve we’d be back in New Jersey
joy all that British Columbia has to
ski hills and had a fantastic view,
tomorrow. One farewell dinner later,
offer to plan ahead and book your
not only of Vancouver but also all
we bid everyone good night and
tour early. The riding season in west
the way to Mt. Baker in Washington
hoped to see the rest of the group
Canada is wonderful but it is also
State.
in the morning. The folks from Aus-
short.
tralia were flying out late that night.
Arriving back at The Four Points
By the time we awoke, the boys had
Enjoy your travels.
19
Know Before You Go.
Whether you visit western Canada
with a tour group or take a self-guid-
majestic snow-capped mountains,
adventure recreation in the world!
the lakes, orchards and vineyards
From heli-skiing in the winter to heli-
immediately instill a sensation of
hiking in the summer, always against
awe in the sightseer.
a backdrop of unbelievable scenery,
ed tour, you can take countless op-
this is the opportunity for adventure.
Fraser River Canyon
portunities to enhance your trip with
But if you are not feeling that ad-
some planning of places to visit and
things to see along the way. Follow-
venturous take a walking tour of the
“The Fraser” is the chief river of
Rising
downtown area and enjoy quaint
ing, in a very condensed version, are
British Columbia, Canada.
notes and comments about a few
in the Canadian Rocky Mts., at Yel-
of the places you are likely to visit.
lowhead Pass, it flows northwest 850
There is much, much more informa-
miles through the Rocky Mt. Trench
An added bonus for railroad buffs
tion available about each of these
to Prince George, then south and
is the Railway Museum where one
than published here so, take these
west to the Strait of Georgia at Van-
can step back in time with these gi-
notes as a “teaser” and go on the
couver.
ant relics of a bygone era.
web to further research your itiner-
which begins at Yale, is noted for its
ary and you will get much more out
scenery; its mountain walls rise more
of your travel experience.
than 3,000 ft.
The Fraser River canyon,
shops, boutiques, coffee houses and
restaurants.
Banff
Protected by the National Park sys-
Hell’s Gate
The Calgary Stampede
tem, Banff offers stunning mountain
scenery, abundant wildlife (“wildlife”
In 1808 explorer Simon Fraser de-
– not “nightlife”) year round recre-
The most popular tourist attrac-
scribed this thunderous, narrow pas-
ation and world class accommoda-
tion in Calgary began in 1912 and is
sage as an “awesome gorge” where
tions. Who isn’t familiar with the im-
held every year in early July. (July 1-
the towering rock walls close in to
age of the Banff Springs Hotel – the
16, 2006) Now millions come in from
create a channel only 110 feet wide
huge structure dwarfed by the sur-
around the world to enjoy the annu-
to handle a volume of water greater
rounding mountains? Spend some
al Calgary Stampede and Exhibition,
than Niagara Falls. “We had to trav-
time relaxing in any of the refreshing
‘the greatest outdoor show on earth’
el where no human being should
natural hot springs as they appear to
which has a real rodeo, amusement
venture – for surely we have encoun-
be everywhere in this area.
park, concerts, chuck wagon races
tered the gates of Hell” – Fraser
Lake Louise
and lots more. The city changes during the 10-day event into a cow-
One of the most popular attrac-
town way of life. You will find lots of
tions in Canada is the Airtram at
“Diamond in the Wilderness” is a
friendly cowboys and cowgirls and
Hell’s Gate. You can walk the almost
description often used to describe
should add the Calgary Stampede
hour up and back route but riding
this locale.
to your list of things to see if you plan
over the gorge in safety allows you
tacular scenery, glaciers, waterfalls,
a trip at that time of the year. www.
get a glimpse of the awesome pow-
rivers and lakes, this is not your typi-
CalgaryStampede.com
er of Hell’s Gate and the opportunity
cal Vail or Aspen area – it is an out-
to catch the sight by camera.
post of civilization. The nearest des-
Kelowna
Abounding with spec-
tination is three hours away. If you
Revelstoke
You might want to park your mo-
are looking for peace, quiet and
beauty you have come to the right
torcycle for the day and enjoy some
The gateway to mountain adven-
place. At Lake Louise you probably
of the many activities available.
ture and the National Parks; Revel-
couldn’t take a bad photo even if
Kelowna; set against a backdrop of
stoke is home to some of the best
you tried.
20
Motorcycle Touring in Colorado
Tom Matthews
There is an old fable about three
blind monks coming upon an elephant for the first time. When they
returned to the monastery each
monk was anxious to describe the
beast to his fellow monks. The first,
having grabbed the elephant’s leg
said, “an elephant is like a tree.”
The second, having found himself
holding the animal’s trunk said “Oh
no, an elephant is like a snake. The
third spoke up and refuted both, for
having held the tail he said, “An elephant is like a rope.”
So what do monks and elephants
have to do with motorcycles, touring or Colorado?
Simple, many
people who visit Colorado only see
one aspect of the state and take
that impression away. But Colorado
is a state of mountains, high plains
and deserts, a state of modern, international cities and timeless river
canyons.
Nearly half of Colorado
is high plains, the same grasslands
that were home to millions of buffalo
valleys and lift you up again.
from the canyon floor.
and the plains Indians. As you ride
through the vast expanse of wheat
Aim your bike west from the city.
Turnouts afford a view south
fields and native grasses, the buffalo
I-70 will get you out of the city in a
across Clear Creek Canyon to the
are long gone. You are only slightly
hurry, only 20 miles from downtown
Never Summer Range to the North.
aware of gaining altitude. About six-
and you are riding through the cut in
The pass is 9,807 feet high and
ty miles from Denver the mountains
the Dakota Hogback and climbing
you’ve gained 4,527 feet in altitude.
start to fill your view, start to enter
through steep walls of Mount Vernon
But wait. Ride and hear the sound of
your consciousness. You’ve reached
Canyon. Get off the interstate now.
your pipes reverberate off the gran-
the Mile High City, filled with great
Time for real mountain roads. Head
ite walls of the road cut to your left.
restaurants, nightlife and cultural at-
south on Evergreen Parkway to High-
Look to your right at a wall of green
tractions. But unless your boss sent
way 103. Head west again and the
treetops sloping away to the canyon
you on business, you’re not here to
fun begins. Squaw Pass is steep and
below. You’re in the Arapahoe Na-
see the city. It’s west, the mountains
twisty. The road opens up from time
tional Forest. Spruce and aspen line
with roads that soar high over alpine
to time but don’t be fooled. More
the road. You can smell the trees,
passes, that swoop low in the river
turns ahead as the road climbs away
you feel the cool as you look out at
23
distant peaks framed by an impossi-
two wheelers, and up ahead is Echo
made rubber snakes displayed side
bly clear sky the color of robin’s eggs.
Lake Lodge. Time to stop, get some
by side with exquisite Native Ameri-
Ride past the slower pedal powered
coffee and wonder at the Chinese
can art.
Decision time; are you up for a
ride to the top of the world? Just
steps away from the lodge is the
gatehouse to the Mt. Evans Wilderness Area. From the Lodge’s altitude
of just over 10,000 feet, you can ride
another 18 miles and reach the top
of Mt. Evans at 14,264. This is Colorado Highway 5, the highest paved
road in North America, second highest in the western hemisphere. It’s
not for the faint of heart. This is the
high alpine. Ride up through a forest of bristle cone pines. Some of
the trees are 1,500 years old, some
may be 2,000 years old or more.
Stop and walk among them. Trunks
twisted and polished by sand and
snow over the centuries with a small
thin band of living bark on the leeward side. Ride on, above the timberline, the road cut into the side
of the mountain, twisting around,
fighting to gain altitude. The road
cuts through a snowfield and the
bank towers above you. Watch as
mountain goats and Rocky Mountain sheep scamper off at the sound
of the bike.
Arrive at Summit Lake, a glacial
cirque at 13,000 feet. It may be frozen or may reflect the snowfield that
feeds its clear cold waters. Stop and
view the alpine tundra; a study in
tenacity.
Miniature plants cling to
the hillsides and bloom tiny flowers
in the weeks long growing season.
Eight miles to go to the summit; the
slowest eight miles you’ll ride outside
a Shriner’s parade. The road is narrow with no guardrails. Traffic on the
24
downhill side may well crowd into
you continue on.
Red Mountain
the Million Dollar Highway, carved
your lane a bit. You’ll see interest-
Pass awaits, described as the most
out of the hillside to bring miners to
ing expressions on the driver’s faces
scenic road in North America, this is
the diggings and ore back to the
as they contemplate the wisdom of
their decision to drive to the summit.
The road ahead seems to disappear into the sky yet you ride on
knowing the summit waits up ahead.
You feel the effects of the thin air
on the bike as you rev the engine
higher to maintain your momentum.
The summit gained, and you are on
top of the world. Climb the last sixty
feet to the rocky summit and look
east to Denver and the plains, over
a mile and a half below. Look north
to Longs Peak, South to Pikes Peak
and west across South Park to the
Collegiate Peaks. It’s clear now, you
know where you will ride; you’ll take
the high road.
You’ve left the Front Range, traversed the lonely expanse of South
Park to the headwaters of the Arkansas River and crossed the Continental Divide over Monarch Pass
at 11,312 feet. You enter the Gunnison River Valley and glide down
the through the gorge.
You have
reached the Western Slope, home
to ranches, orchards vineyards and
more motorcycle adventures. Just
before reaching Montrose, the Black
Canyon of the Gunnison River beckons.
Now a National Park, you’ll
gaze across the narrow gorge at the
2,700 foot high Painted Cliff soaring
above the river.
Continue on to Montrose and
South to Ouray, named for the great
chief of the Mountain Utes.
The
city lies in a box canyon and its hot
springs pool will soothe you before
25
About the author:
Cross the summit and wind
now; the great desert of the South-
Tom Matthews has lived and
down to Silverton then on south to
west lies ahead. Ride west to Mesa
ridden in Colorado for over 30
Durango. You’ve left the mountains
Verde and visit the home of the Ana-
years and, along with his wife,
east.
Lynn, is the owner and operator of Turkey Creek Motorcycle
Tours. Tom can be reached at
tom@turkeycreektours.com or
www.turkeycreektours.com
sazi, the cliff dwellers that eked out a
life in this harsh land. Leave the ancient spirits and turn north. Ride into
the forest again and follow the San
Miguel River across the valley to the
Delores River Canyon. Ride the arid
rim-rock canyon of red sand stone
and descend to the valley floor before climbing out again under the
shadow of a towering mesa.
Now it’s time to describe Motorcycle touring in Colorado. Is it the
plains, the cities or the high alpine?
Is Colorado the Great Sand Dunes,
The Black Canyon or Mesa Verde?
Desert, forest, mesa?
Colorado is
all of these and so much more than
the sum of its parts. Colorado is not
about how many miles you ride in
a day, it’s about the joy of riding to
the top of the world, riding through
the forests and the river valleys. How
long does it take to tour Colorado?
A week if you have it, two weeks if
you’re lucky and a lifetime if you are
truly blessed.
A guided motorcycle tour can
make the most of you precious vacation time. The tour operator has
mapped out the routes and done all
the legwork to book accommodations so you can concentrate on the
ride and enjoy the incredible variety
Colorado has to offer.
26
28
The Rocky Mountains, “the Rockies”, stretch more than 3,000 miles
from New Mexico to British Columbia.
Colorado’s Mt. Elbert (14,440
feet) is the highest peak, Mt. Robson
(12,972 feet) in British Columbia is the
highest peak in the Canadian Rockies.
These images include the majesty
of both the Colorado Rockies and
the Canadian Rockies as does our
feature articles in this issue. Choose
either destination and you will have
the motorcycle trip of a lifetime.
29
30
31
Lynn and Tom Matthews
Turkey Creek Tours
Conifer, CO
Tour packages vary greatly so it is
What about rider safety?
hard to compare apples to apples,
What is the most rewarding as-
do you provide a definitive descrip-
We are very concerned about
tion of what is, and what is not, in-
safety. Most of our riders have been
cluded in your tours?
riding for a while and we ask that
pect of what you do?
participants have a minimum of two
Detailed information is on our
years of riding. Colorado roads are
Seeing the smiles on people’s fac-
website and in our printed materi-
challenging and not the place for
es. Most motorcyclists are very nice
als. We feel it is important to be very
beginners.
people. Everyone has a story to tell
clear on what is and isn’t included
are certified in CPR and first aid and
and others want to hear the stories.
and make it easy to understand. We
pack a well-stocked first aid kit. We
It’s the stories that bind us together
offer luxury tours staying in upscale
won’t tolerate a rider who displays
and demonstrate that we all have
B&B’s, mountain lodges, and hotels.
dangerous riding choices; we re-
many things in common.
We host a welcome and farewell
serve the right to expel a rider if he or
dinner, and we provide breakfast
she endangers himself or the group.
How did you get started in this
business?
and dinner every night of the tour.
We eat at upscale restaurants. Unlike most tour operators we include
Tom and I started putting the busi-
ed to do something we really liked.
What else would you like to tell us
about the services you offer?
the fuel in our tours.
ness together several years ago. We
like riding and traveling, and want-
In addition, Tom and I
We are here to help with rental
What is the funniest thing that you
have had happen on a trip?
So we decided to quit our jobs to do
and shipping arrangements. We are
happy to have you ship your gear directly to us so you don’t have to carry
this. I’ve organized and lead several
We were at a scenic overlook
it on the plane. We will help you get
tour groups to Central and South
in one of the National Parks and a
it all shipped back along with any
America, Fiji and New Zealand, al-
couple got out of their car and guy
souvenirs you picked up along the
though they were not motorcycle
rushed over to the group. He had just
way. We offer airport pickup and
oriented. This background provided
gotten his first bike and started riding
return and take guests to their rental
experience and insight into how the
a few months before and had not
bike. We have arrangements with a
tour business works.
done any group riding. He wanted
local shop to receive bikes that are
to talk motorcycles; he could not get
shipped to Colorado and we’ll ar-
enough of the bikes or the group. I
range storage for trucks and trailers.
remember him saying “when you
We also offer custom tours and a full
ride a bike, it’s like you have a whole
tour itinerary service.
Tell me a little about your various
tours?
We offer nine Colorado tours
new family - they even wave when
and two Mexico tours running June
you go by.” One of our group told
through October. Full descriptions,
him to wait a few more months and
For more information contact
schedules and costs are on our web-
he would be shown the “secret biker
Tom or Lynn Matthews
site at www.TurkeyCreekTours.com.
handshake.” It took him a moment
888-763-6185
to figure we were pulling his leg.
www.TurkeyCreekTours.com
32
Spotlight
David Graham of
Coastline Motorcycle
Adventure Tours.
Vancouver, B.C.
David, how did you get into this
business?
What is the funniest thing that you
offer?
have had happen on a trip?
Safety rules are fully explained
On our very first tour some of the
long before clients arrive. If we’re
riders got separated from the guide
traveling in a group, we insist on rid-
truck and headed in the wrong di-
ing staggered duals, zero tolerance
rection at break neck speed. John,
to driving under the influence etc.
the guide, chased after them but
From time to time, if there are partic-
didn’t catch up for fifty miles or so.
ularly difficult stretches of road pre-
My original partner moved to the
We were supposed to be heading
senting various dangers, we’ll discuss
island we live on and was a Harley
north but they headed west. Mean-
these before heading onward. Each
rider as are we. One thing led to
while, I was in the truck going north
section is thoughtfully planned and
another and we started trying to at-
and couldn’t find anyone except
we usually know what lies ahead.
tract people to Vancouver Island. It
the two riders who were with me.
just grew from there.
We made calls to hospitals and po-
If we can’t accommodate peo-
lice to find out if there had been any
ple on our scheduled tours because
motorcycle accidents and we wait-
of itinerary conflicts, we can arrange
ed and waited. When the original
the same set ups to suit their travel
group started heading back east,
needs.
Tell us about your company.
We just started our 10th year of
Coastline Motorcycle Tours.
they missed the turn north and went
about seventy miles too far east be-
Our team includes my wife, Car-
fore realizing their mistake.
For those wishing to foray out on
In the
their own, we can rent them a mo-
men, son in law Shannon Smith and
end they met up with the rest of us
torcycle, kiss them goodbye and
my tour guide/mechanic, John Bi-
about four hours later. It was a late
wish them a happy time.
galke. We have all been together
arrival to our nights lodging and ev-
since the beginning.
eryone was happy to get there.
We have a “hands on” service I
don’t think any other company of-
What tours do you offer?
Our two main tours. “The Totem
What happens if someone on the
fers. We will deliver bikes to any hotel
tour just can’t get along with the rest
in any of the city’s we operate from
of the group?
and pick them up on their return.
Tour of Vancouver Island” and “Wild
Canada West”, through the Rockies,
Well, quite frankly, that’s never
Given most folks don’t have a
in and out of Vancouver, B.C. Last
happened. Most strangers meeting
lot of time, we consider making an
year we developed two combina-
up on one of our tours remain friends
eight day trip as hassle free as pos-
tions called, “A Different Wild Cana-
for life.
sible, take all the guess work out of
da West” and “The Best of Both” All of
these are featured on the Coastline
web site. Mostly eight days and eight
route planning and make sure they
What is the most rewarding aspect of what you do?
get to see as much as possible without everything going by in a blur.
nights, including fabulous accomFor more information contact
modations in three star hotels and
Without a doubt, sharing this
resorts (or better). We offer guided
beautiful country (Canada) that
David Graham
and self guided tours. Guided tours
we love and know so well. There is a
Coastline Motorcycle
require a minimum six participants
great pride in this.
Adventure Tours
1-866-338-0344
and we go along, carry everyone’s
luggage and give guests the benefit
of our expert knowledge.
Is there anything else you would
like to tell us about the services you
1-250-335-1837
www.CoastlineMC.com
33
The starting point of this 10-day escorted, guided tour is Natchez, MS.
The ride will then follow the entire
Natchez Trace Parkway to Tennessee.
In Tennessee we will ride to
Gatlinburg and the Great Smoky
Mountains National Park. Ride the
Tail Of The Dragon before visiting
Cherokee, NC. From Cherokee the
tour will follow the Blue Ridge Parkway across North Carolina and into
part of Virginia. On the return trip
we will visit the Barber Motorsports
Museum in Leeds, AL before returning to our starting point.
ests, mountains, just about everything. But since this is a weekend
ride, we decided we would head to
the mountains.
Boy Howdee!
Carmen Juch
Ok, you may not think of the hills
of the Austin area as “mountains”
finished dancing around to the Z-Z
but they have to do for the area we
Top lyrics “…We was laughing and
are in and they have some great
I’m jokin’ and we feelin’ alright. Oh
riding and camping.
I’m bad, I’m nationwide. Yes I’m
to all the places you have been or
bad, I’m nationwide” I stop and sud-
maybe haven’t but I bet you wish
denly realized “Hey, I probably have
you could.
So we went
to be more creative in my writing.”
Where’s the fun?
Friday afternoon we stopped in
on 6th street just for a quick walk on
So I sat back to analyze my op-
the boulevard. We planned to stay
tions for this story and decided the
outside the city and didn’t want to
only real way to get a great idea is
be traveling in Deer County too late
to get on the bike and ride. Surely a
at night so we went on, heading
trip would bring forth a great story.
towards our first camping site. The
And it is SPRING in Texas. The wild
night was clear, the weather un-
flowers are blooming and the hu-
believable and we sang those old
midity is held at bay (a little). In Tex-
familiar songs late into the night. I
as, the weather is practically perfect
am sure you know them, Gilligan’s
at this time of year. What a better
Island, The Addams Family, Beverly
narrative to fill my word quota for this
Hillbillies, I Love Lucy (one of the rid-
piece, I ask you?
ers was a bit older than the rest of
us), and Green Acres (we couldn’t
After weeks of enduring four walls,
I was certainly overdue for a little
remember the words to The Partridge Family). Ah, the memories.
bike time and it wasn’t hard to persuade a few others to buy a ticket to
The next day we just keep on rid-
my idea. So we made plans to meet
ing with no real plan but to enjoy ev-
up on Friday, not too early because
erything, the day, the food, the ride.
well, because we wanted to miss the
I don’t know if you have ever been to
early morning traffic (ok, I wanted to
Johnson City but it is a fun little place
sleep in).
to stop in on a ride with great café
type restaurants and antique shops.
The pressure, OH the pressure. We
I am sure you know that Texas is
As the birthplace of LBJ it got them
went “Nationwide” with distribution
big. You can pick out some places
on the map but Johnson City was
on news stands in all 50 states and
IN Texas and they are still bigger
named after cattle-ranching ances-
Canada!
than several other states combined.
tors of the late President.
We have parks bigger than some
Boy Howdee!
Happy days and
that entire hullabaloo.
36
But once I
states. We have beaches, deserts,
Did we have fun? You betcha.
plains, places where is snows, for-
Was the riding good? Awesome.
Around The Bend
We camped, we fished a little (well,
not me), we cooked (basically me)
over a campfire and it tasted better
than a four star restaurant (because
it was me) and we returned home
rested and tired and happy all at
the same time and wanting to do it
all over again.
What is better than riding with
good friends on a perfect weekend
with no obligation to do anything
but enjoy each others company?
Did I come up with a story? Well, I
did fill the page with words and it
does have to do with riding a motorcycle so what can the boss say?
Now for the next issue, I’m thinking … beach?
37
Crayfish.
Crawfish. Crawdad.
Whatever you want to call them,
there are over 500 species of these
My Little Mudbugs
little crustaceans, a relative of the
lobster.
Carmen Juch
Drooling enthusiasts from
Louisiana to Oregon to New Jersey and points in between eagerly
await the “season” each year.
this act with their traveling compan-
Think “crawfish festival” and a lot
When I was young and living in
ions, sure that we were indeed back-
of us in this part of the woods think
Louisiana, every gas station or cor-
wards in some way. Those days are
“Breaux Bridge, Louisiana”.
ner store would sell lunch sized pa-
long gone.
per bags full for a dollar - a heck of
what these little beauties are and
But guess again – since 1951,
a profit considering the owner and
vie for their fair share when that time
(that’s right 55 years!) there has
their entire family would harvest the
of year arrives.
been the annual Tualatin Crawfish
Now, everyone knows
shrimp-like critters from the bay-
Festival, “The Nation’s Oldest Craw-
ous along the back roads so there
Here in the Texas/Louisiana area
fish Festival”, in Tualatin, Oregon. In
was only an investment of time and
we call them crawfish, and they are
1961 Tennessee Ernie Ford declared
some spices and the bag of course.
found in more places than most of us
the Tualatin Crawfish Festival “the
A favorite past time was grossing
even realize. There are festivals cel-
only crawfish festival in the world”.
out the tourist by sucking the heads.
ebrating the consuming of the little
Fifteen years later the city of Breaux
We would laugh at the look on their
devils all the way to New Zealand.
Bridge got wind of the claim and
faces as they turned away to discuss
38
fought back sending Tualatin a let-
Fork In The Road
ter informing them that in 1960 the
towels and you will figure out why
a shaded area until you’re ready to
Louisiana State legislature declared
the first time you use your “gunked
Get Cookin’!
Breaux Bridge the Crawfish Capi-
up” hands to try and tear off a paper
tol of the World. A Louisiana Voo-
towel from the roll. Be sure to have
When you’re ready, add the water
doo Queen even got involved and
plenty of large garbage containers
and seasoning to the pot and bring
placed a curse on the Tualatin Festi-
nearby also. It’s really not necessary
it to a boil on the propane burner.
val threatening them with bad “gris-
to have plates if you do it this way.
Let’s stop here to talk about spices
gris” for trying to steal Louisiana’s
Just pour them in the middle of the
for a minute. The easiest way to go
claim to crawfish superiority.
table.
about this is the pre-made versions
like Zatarains® or Tony Chachere’s®.
I guess the gris-gris must have
You’ll need a 15- to 20-gallon pot
Personally I use a mixture of the liq-
worked because the following year
with a lid to boil the crawfish in, a
uid and the spice bag then in ad-
a near riot broke out following the
metal basket to fit the pot that has
dition I add whole cloves, whole
Tualatin Festival and reinforcements
holes to drain the water out, along
garlic pods, lemons sliced in half,
had to be called in (you don’t mess
with a propane burner to cook on.
pepper pods and a half cup vinegar
with those Voodoo Queens) and the
Next figure out how much live craw-
per sack of crawfish. Some people
future of the Tualatin event hung in
fish you need to buy. Most people I
add salt; I think the spice bags have
jeopardy for a while. The local busi-
know can eat at least 6 to 10 pounds
enough.
nesses decided to keep on and 29
of crawfish each - actually most of
Orleans would add one bottle of
years later the event is still going
us eat more! (Remember, you are
Louisiana hot sauce in the boil wa-
strong.
only eating the tail meat and it takes
ter instead of the vinegar; everyone
about 4 pounds of crawfish to equal
likes to have his or her own “special
1 pound of meat.)
sauce”. I like to dip the meat into the
Most crawfish live in freshwater
like lakes and streams, but a few va-
A friend of mine in New
hot sauce and therefore I do not use
rieties survive in salt water. If it makes
An hour or two before you’re
it in the boil. When it come to craw-
you feel any better as you suck them
ready to cook find a shady spot and
down, crawfish live normally less
set up your crawfish cooker hopeful-
than two years.
ly near a water hose. A very impor-
Once the spices are dissolved,
tant step is to purge the crawfish but
you can add the potatoes and corn
fish, to each his own, I say!
While it may be easier to frequent
remember, don’t leave the crawfish
and cook until about half done.
your area restaurants that know how
covered with water, as they need
Some folks like to add onions, mush-
to prepare crawfish with just the right
air to stay alive. To purge the craw-
rooms, or other veggies, I don’t care
mix of spices, if you are adventurous,
fish you have options. Pour rock salt
for them as I think the onions just
don’t mind the work that it entails
into the cooker and fill with water
get over spiced and slimy and the
(no pun intended) and are ready to
and swish to dissolve the salt. Pour
mushrooms absorb too much of the
astound friends and family with your
the crawfish out of the sack into the
salt that you need for the crawdads,
own crawfish boil you need to start
metal basket and dip the basket in
but you should do what you like (see
with the right paraphernalia. Stock
and out of cool water, changing the
last sentence in above paragraph!)
up on newspaper. You can use it to
water several times until the craw-
We use to cook artichokes in the left
cover the table with numerous lay-
fish are clean. You might want to
over water and then stuff them with
ers so that as they get wet and full of
use a large tub of water or one or
bread dressing the next day. As veg-
shells, they can be peeled up a few
two large ice chests but remember
gies become done remove them
pages at a time and tossed. Tons
the crawfish need to breath! Use
from the pot and place in a small
of paper napkins should be in easy
gloves (since those pinchers really
clean ice chest and cover with foil.
reach of the eaters. It’s much easier
hurt) and discard any dead craw-
Don’t close the lid, the foil will keep
if you use napkins and not paper
fish and debris. Keep the crawfish in
the heat in and prevent weeping.
39
Fork In The Road
(continued from page 39)
Time to add the crawfish when
the veggies are halfway there. Add
the crawfish and bring the water
back to a boil. It takes from three
to five minutes according to the size
but, the bright red-orange tells you
they are getting close (remember,
like shrimp, crawfish do not take that
long to cook and if you overcook
they will be tough, mealy and hard
Sue Haley
The point is that if you choose to
to peel) remove a couple of craw-
Do you like to gamble?
do any of these things you are hop-
fish from the pot, peel them, and
ing that you will win, but at the same
check for doneness. (I find that the
If you do there are many ways
time you are aware that you might
first batch is never as good as the
to go about it; Las Vegas, Atlantic
not. If you really like to gamble and
ones to follow.)
City, and Monte Carlo are all desti-
you are smart you will you under-
nations that people have flocked to
stand and accept the consequenc-
for many years to satisfy their urge to
es that you face if you lose.
Now for the good part, eating
crawfish!
gamble.
Then there are the people at
Step 1
You can bet on sporting events
the opposite extreme that wouldn’t
Gently twist the head apart
- not necessarily legally, play high
gamble
from the tail and if you are like me,
stakes poker somewhere in a smoke-
amount. A $1.00 scratch-off lottery
then at this point, gently suck the
filled room, visit a track and spend
ticket is way beyond what they are
head, or insert a finger into the
an afternoon betting on the ponies
willing to risk.
cavity and scoop out the “fat”.
or cheering on the dogs as they
chase a mechanical rabbit around
Step 2
in a circle.
for
even
the
smallest
Most gambling, especially games
such as card games, dice, roulette
Hold the tail sideways between
your thumb and forefinger and
squeeze gently to break the shell.
Then peel away 2 to 3 segments of
shell from the tail to expose the meat.
Step 3
Pinch the bottom end of the tail
while carefully pulling the meat out
of the shell. If the pinchers are decent size you can break them open
and eat the little morsel there.
Step 4
Repeat until stuffed!
40
Insurance Corner
wheels and such are based on the
laws of mathematics.
My best and shortest definition is
The smart
the following: “Liability means that
gambler (is that an oxymoron?) will
you are liable for what you do to oth-
learn as much as possible about the
er people and their property. If you
mathematical probabilities of each
break it, you’re liable to fix it”.
possible event. For example in dice
there are 36 possible combinations
The long version is liability pays
of numbers that can come up when
when an insured (the person who
rolling two die. The chances (odds)
owns the policy) is legally liable for
of rolling a “2” are 1 out of 36 or less
bodily injury and damage to the
than 3%. The odds of rolling a “7”
property of others caused by your
are 6 out of 36 or almost 17%. The
vehicle or your operation of most
gambler who possesses knowledge
non-owned vehicles (like a bike you
and understands the probabilities
don’t own, but borrowed). This cov-
has a better chance of winning.
erage also pays for your legal defense if you are sued.
People from both of these groups
seem content to gamble every day
Do yourself a favor, look at your
on their insurance coverage. They
policy and get familiar with your
aren’t aware that they are gambling
coverages. Pull out the little booklet
but they are taking huge risks be-
that came with your policy and look
cause they don’t understand their
up terms you are not familiar with,
insurance coverages and they don’t
or call your agent. Take the time to
have any idea what is their true li-
learn about something that is go-
ability.
ing to protect not only you and your
family, but also all of the assets for
I hang my head in shame to admit
which you have worked so hard.
that, before I became an insurance
agent, I couldn’t tell you what kind of
Without the right coverage, you
coverages I had on my policy, much
could lose it all tomorrow. Don’t wait
less what the coverages meant.
for a claim to find out what coverages you have and what they mean.
So, when a fifty-five year old potential customer calls in for a quote
If you don’t understand all of it
and they don’t have a clue as to
try doing a little research or try to
what they have on their current poli-
“google” them. It pays to invest time
cy, I sympathize. I can’t tell you how
in understanding your coverages. If
often I have explained the term “lia-
you get totally stumped on what
bility” to a baby-boomer. And when
something means, call your insur-
it comes time to ask what limits they
ance agent, he or she will be happy
want to carry, everyone from Doc-
to explain your coverages to you.
tors, Lawyers, to Indian Chiefs are at
a loss.
Gamble for fun if you like, visit a
casino, play the ponies or slots.– just
As much as we pay for insurance,
we oughta’ know!
42
don’t gamble with your insurance
coverages.
44
What Is A Biker?
“Tall, dark, and handsome” pretty much describes “Ace”. At 6’4” I
able lesson about observation, but it
Beach, Padre Island and Lone Star
didn’t stop him from riding again.
Rally, he soon plans to go on a re-
could have said a “Long, Tall, Tex-
peat of his favorite ride alongside
an” except he isn’t from Texas and
While in the Military in “Ft. Puke,
I just couldn’t quite decide what a
Lousy-Anna” he learned to ride on a
“Tall Drink of Water” actually means.
fellow Army buddy’s Kawasaki 1980
The Smokey Mountains. They did
He towers over most of the people
KZ650. From there began his love for
the ride last year and the first day
around him but takes some of that
riding, although he will tell you he is
rode from Houston to Rome, Georgia,
daunting presence away when you
no “biker” he is a “motorcycle en-
870 miles, in the first day!
see the sparkle in his eyes and one of
thusiast”!
was seven days total, two of which
his huge easy smiles explode at you.
And his laugh, well it’s contagious.
two of his long-time riding partners.
That trip
were at Myrtle Beach. This year they
He rode Yamaha’s and Suzuki’s
added three days and are spending
“a million miles” before trading a
all of them in the mountains! “The
Born in Queens and raised in
1970 Norton 650 and a 1972 Norton
riding in this area of the country is
Brooklyn, New York, he didn’t get
basket case for a 1987 Harley-Da-
awesome and I can’t wait!”
to Texas until his Military stint was up
vidson Sportster. Up until then you
and then it was by way of California.
wouldn’t have caught him on an H-
That wasn’t until 1983, and at the
D as he didn’t really care for them,
promise of a job, (which didn’t ac-
mostly because he feels they are top
tually come about once he landed)
heavy. But after getting the Sport-
he paid the airfare and arrived in
ster he became “the mechanic”
Houston to begin a whole new life.
for Sportsters riders. Years later he
Within a week he had a job and in
traded for a larger Harley but it was
another week, an apartment. There
stolen from his front yard! He bought
was no looking back and no stop-
the H-D Dresser he has now in 1998.
ping him.
Randy does admit that he has
When I first met Randy Kashdan,
pulled some dim-witted stunts in the
he had long, black hair down almost
past like riding with jumper cables
Everyone who knows “Ace” knows
to his waist and at his height that is
between two bikes to get through
about his annual birthday party
some amount of hair.
Years later
Louisiana or one bike towing anoth-
where the invitation gives no address
he walked into a party with not one
er with a rope when he wanted to
or time, just the declaration that “If
hair on his head – he had shaved it
make his first EasyRiders Rally. But he
you don’t know Ace, Don’t come!”
all off – and still carried the look off!
says he has been “riding motorcycles
He began having the celebration at
That’s Randy – he doesn’t do things
since riding wasn’t cool. Since the
19 and they continue to grow every
half way. He’s an all or nothing kind
days you would stop to get some-
year and now at “40” it is obvious a
of guy.
thing to eat and they would hang
lot of people DO know “Ace”!
a “closed” sign in the window”. But
Riding for him started later in life
the biggest bonus to riding he says is
but his very first ride of any kind was
the “camaraderie” with other riders.
dy’s life.
at the age of 10 or 11 when he rode
Riders don’t really care what you do
great friends, and a great ride!
his father’s boss’ 3-wheeler and
in life for a job, they care about what
Here’s to this issue of Motorcycles:
busted his kneecap by running into
you ride, and that you ride.
On the Road Again magazine’s
a tree stump hidden by tall grass. His
He has a great woman,
“Motorcycle Enthusiast”!
first experience may have held him
Although he has done all the
off for a time and taught him a valu-
big Rallies, Sturgis, Gulfport, Myrtle
Right now is a great time in Ran-
Ride On Randy!
45
J.T. Coldfire: Snapshots & Memories
Amy Edgerly
46
Music Notes
J.T. Coldfire’s stage show and ca-
JT thrills audiences from the South
people down there in the subways
reer exploits are like a really good
Texas coast to Austin and beyond
of NY... I put my headphones on and
book…. you never know what will
every week with his country meets
I’m sitting there singing “Lucken-
happen next. When I first met him
blues guitar virtuosity and his trou-
bach, Texas” and it would just take
over a year ago, the image of a rock
badour vocal style. His philosophy
me right back home. I would listen
and roll cowboy was branded in my
of living in the moment and always
to that kind of stuff, to take me back
memory.
But on our most recent
giving his best, no matter what the
home. And that’s what I wanted to
meeting, on his home turf at The Flats
endeavor, is what makes this hap-
do with this album.”
Lounge in Port Aransas, TX, the rock
pen. Though his talkative nature is
and roll cowboy had morphed into
surpassed perhaps only by his talent,
The album of which he speaks is
a scruffy bandido-esque character,
I have also learned through our con-
self-titled and contains 12 originals
befitting the name El Terrible. Coin-
versations that J.T. Coldfire is wise
written by Coldfire, most of them
cidentally, El Terrible is the name of
beyond his 26 years.
autobiographical. He explains that
the character he was assuming for
each song he writes is a snapshot
the movie La Martina, scheduled to
By the time Coldfire was 15, he was
of maybe 15 minutes in time, con-
begin shooting in Bracketville, TX just
playing in bands with musicians who
densed down to a 3 minute song,
a week later.
had one or two generations on him.
which he believes correctly to be a
It was the musical and personal influ-
more powerful expression of life’s ups
The impression I harbored was
ence of these mentors plus Corpus
and downs. He says, “I don’t try and
that J.T. was the front man for an
Christi DJ Daddy D, and a brother 10
write songs that carry over a span of
incredible country trio, a trio which
years his senior that molded him into
50 years or life lessons -- just a snap-
cranks out country music on diesel
a polished musician and songwriter,
shot. That’s what I love. Chuck Berry
fuel, super-injected with J.T.’s ham-
not to mention a young man of prin-
was able to do that. John Lennon
mer-down
ciple and passion, who “never quits
was able to do that. Ray Charles as
trying, and never tries quitting.”
well. Kris Kristofferson is fantastic at
guitar
picking
which
heeds no “Speed Limit” or “No Trespassing signs”. As it turns out his talent and love of the spotlight reaches
beyond just the musical stage.
it. That’s the most beautiful stuff in
But his older compadres are not
the world. That’s what I try to do with
the only more seasoned individu-
each of these things.” He uses one
als to influence young Coldfire. He
of his own songs to illustrate what
J.T. Coldfire is also an actor. His
remembers his time as a musician
he hopes to accomplish via the live
acting ability was good enough to
in New York thusly: “The norm was
performances as well: “A song like
earn him a full scholarship to the
everybody was shooting for pop ra-
‘Making Memories’ is about just live
School of Film and Television in New
dio... and I really just wanted to take
for tonight. It’s a guy courting a girl
York City in 2000. So the South Texas
a little bit of Texas up there with me.”
and it’s 3:00 in the morning and yeah,
country boy headed for the Big Ap-
He elaborates: “When I leave Texas,
you gotta go to work in the morning,
ple for a two-year stint as a student,
I take some Stevie Ray, I take some
but let’s go for a walk on the beach
actor and musician, fulfilling a life-
ZZ Top and I take some Waylon Jen-
honey. Let’s do something where…
long dream. A dream that would
nings -- take some Buddy Holly. I’ll
you’re going to remember this night
provide him with all the necessary
take some Texas Tornadoes, some
when you’re 50 years old.
tools for success: common sense,
Vicente Fernandez. That’s the kind
to do that at every show. We try to
hard work, perseverance and expe-
of stuff that, when I was in NY and I
make memories at every show.”
rience. Although he arguably had
was hungry and it’s 6 o’clock in the
those in his toolbox before he left;
morning, I’m sitting on a subway for
Another goal he strives toward
thankfully, he brought them back
2 hours to get back home... my gui-
and achieves on this CD is to make
home to Texas in 2002.
tar on one side, my pedals on this
each song sound unique from the
side... hanging with a bunch of crazy
first bar forward.
We try
He explains, “I
47
Music Notes
wanted people to hear the intro
or hero theme, and by all reports,
and straw cowboy hat for unruly
of each song, the first 4 seconds of
based on a true story. La Martina
curls and facial scruff. Admittedly,
each song and know that it’s not the
contains all three themes. Without
both looks serve him equally well.
song that they just heard.” He uses
giving away the whole story, it is set
Stoney LaRue’s The Red Dirt Album
in the late 1800’s, a story of Mexican
Look forward to the release of
as an example: “I love The Red Dirt
Bandidos, (the ones who rode 4-
La Martina in the summer of 2006.
Album... the songs on his album real-
legged horses) and of one Bandido’s
Coldfire’s CD is available at the
ly reflect the virtuosity that he has as
obsessive love and jealousy and the
touch of your fingertips by visiting
a songwriter, as a melody man. You
tragic consequences of both. J.T.’s
www.lonestarmusic.com.
don’t mistake “One Chord Song” for
character is the equivalent of Sonny
“Walking Away”. There’s no way. You
Corleone’s in TheGodfather, howev-
You can catch an upcoming live
don’t hear track 2 and think, ‘wait a
er he assures us he lasts longer in the
show by checking the tour schedule
second, is that track 2 or track 1? I
story than Sonny did. Which is why
on www.jtcoldfire.com. We can all
can’t tell the difference.’” His vastly
at this most recent meeting, JT had
look forward to many snapshots and
varied musical experience is prob-
forsaken the neatly trimmed beard
memories from this young talent .
ably responsible for JT’s ability to accomplish that very end result on his
own album. “I’ve played in mariachis, I’ve played in funk bands, I’ve
played in rock bands, I’ve played in
blues bands, and I played in a Rolling Stone tribute band called The
Rolling Bones. I played in a Prince
tribute band. I’ve done a lot of Motown stuff. All those things became
influences.” With that many influences, it has to be extremely difficult for
one’s own creations to be deemed
monotonous. The songs on J.T. Coldfire certainly are not.
J.T. is not one to settle for monotony in life at all. His music career takes
him all over the state of Texas, but it
wasn’t to be long before the movie
industry would be calling on his acting abilities as well. In March 2006 JT
reports to the set of the film La Martina in Bracketville, in Southwest Texas
near Del Rio. According to scriptwriter Santiago Villalobos, who also
joined On The Road Again for the
interview for this article, the movie
is based on a Mexican corrido. A
corrido is a three part ballad, usually
with a romantic or famed criminal
48
How to Choose a Guided
Motorcycle Tour
Lynn & Tom Matthews
Turkey Creek Tours
$115 a day for a smaller cruiser to
or a shredded tire adds, peace of
$135 for a mid-sized bike on up to
mind and can prevent lost riding
$165 or more per day for a full-dress
time.
touring bike. Weekly rates are often
convenience of being able to stow
ing and it is hard to make an apples-
available.
Realize that insurance
your luggage in the trailer instead
to-apples comparison.
and taxes are extra. Even if a tour
of packing and unpacking the bike
operator does not provide rentals,
each night and having your luggage
look for a company that will work
locked up at lunch stops and at at-
with you to make the arrangements
tractions. If you or your passenger
and find out if they can get you from
doesn’t want to ride on a particular
the airport to your rental and back.
day, hitching a ride in the support
Tour descriptions can be confusHere are
some key points to consider:
How long is the tour?
A five-day motorcycle tour can
mean 5 nights of lodging and only
4 days of riding. Read the tour de-
Other benefits include the
vehicle is an option. Some motorcyLodging.
choices
cle tour operators allow a non-rider
scriptions carefully or contact the
abound from primitive cabins to low-
Lodging
to take the entire trip in the vehicle.
operator to make sure you know how
cost chain motels to high-end lodges
In short, a support vehicle and trailer
many days you’ll be riding.
Look
and historic inns. The cost of lodging
can provide convenience, safety,
for descriptions such as “5-days/6-
will often be the major cost factor in
security and peace of mind.
nights.”
the overall price of the tour and may
drive your budget decisions. Unless
What’s included?
Meals. Some tours include meals
and some don’t.
Most operators
who provide meals usually include
Additional services.
There are
the tour operator highlights luxury
many small things that can help
lodging as a feature of the tour, as-
avoid hassles and add to the enjoy-
sume that the rooms will be average
ment of your motorcycle vacation.
chain or local hotels and motels. As
Airport pick-up and drop off, help
always, ask questions.
with getting a bike shipped, agree-
breakfast and dinner and leave
ing to receive any gear you have
lunch up to the individual. Alcoholic
What other things
shipped and helping ship those sou-
beverages are typically not includ-
should I look for?
venirs home. Perhaps a Fly-Buy-Ride
ed. The type of restaurants included
in the tour can have an impact on
arrangement, where you will pre-arDoes the operator know the
range a new bike purchase is some-
both your enjoyment of the tour and
area?
Have the guides spent the
thing you want to try. You fly in, ride
the cost of the tour. Be sure to read
time getting to know the roads, the
the bike on the tour and either ride
the tour offering carefully and find
attractions and the weather?
Do
the bike home or have it shipped.
out what level of meals and how
they know where the hotels and
A tour company that can help you
many meals you are getting. Look
restaurants are, where repairs and
make the arrangements is invalu-
for terms like “gourmet” “fine din-
parts can be obtained?
able.
ing” or “family style” to get a feel for
experienced riders with a passion for
the offering. Again, ask questions if
motorcycling?
Are they
you’re not sure.
Don’t forget trip insurance.
Re-
gardless of how well you and the
Support vehicle and trailer. A sup-
tour operator have planned your
port vehicle and trailer offers several
vacation, things can still go wrong;
rentals, some don’t. Be sure to figure
benefits.
Obviously, the ability to
you may become ill, the trip might
the costs when doing your compari-
carry a motorcycle to a repair facil-
be cancelled mid-tour or other ex-
sons.
ity in case of a mechanical problem
ternal events can cause a change
Rentals. Some operators include
52
Rentals should run between
GODOMETER
of plans. Trip insurance can cover
some of the loss and soften the blow
of a vacation disaster. Some tour operators offer trip insurance, others do
not. Whichever way you go, be sure
the policy meets your requirements
and always shop around for the best
deal. If you are touring out of the
country be sure you have medical
evacuation coverage.
The final thing to look for is a
good fit. Does the motorcycle tour
meet your style of riding? Are you
looking for an intimate group or is
a large group your idea of fun. Are
you an Iron Butt Rally/thousand mile
per day rider or do you want to take
it easy and see the sights? Do you
care about staying in upscale lodging or is a sleeping bag in a rustic
cabin the perfect choice. Does the
tour meet your needs for budget, locale, attractions and extracurricular
activities? Does the tour require you
to ride as a group or can you take
off on your own and meet the group
later for dinner. Do the guides seem
to be the kind of folks you want to
spend a week with? Check the web
site and read about the company,
the guides and the owners. If you
are unsure, send an email or pick up
the phone and call. If you call you
should try to speak with the person
who will actually lead your tour, otherwise you might just be talking to a
silver-tongued salesperson.
The whole point of a guided motorcycle tour is to eliminate the hassles and get the most out of your vacation. Read the tour descriptions,
ask questions and you’ll find a tour
that fits your budget, your time and
your interests.
53
Ridin’ On the Cheap
By Lisa Breen
Road trip anyone? Count me in! I can’t even
begin to count the number of times I have headed out with a friend for a weekend of riding. “Let’s
head to the coast, or the lake or the hills.”
We figure out food and a place to stay on the
road. “Let’s just get out of here for a day or two”,
someone will say. It always seems to be one of
those trips with a direction in mind but no real destination. So we grab our sunglasses and leathers,
when necessary, and head for our bikes.
And we are down the road for a quick getaway
and pray that the weather holds. Even though we
only have a few bucks in our pocket we don’t let
that that keep us from heading out.
We like to sleep cheap on our way from here
to there and I’ve learned to keep my State Park
map on my bike for occasions such as these. With
campsites just a few bucks and our bedrolls on
board we can find a scenic spot for the night.
There are bathrooms at all of the parks and
showers at most. You can get electricity and water if you aren‘t truly the “roughing it” type.
Of course, all campsites come with a fire ring
and wood is available for purchase at the entrance, so there are no worries about dinner. A
quick stop at the store for some kabobs or dogs
and we are sitting with Mother Nature as our
backdrop.
With a little left in our pockets we sleep away
the night. The sun is our alarm clock as there’s
more riding to be done. Just roll up our beds and
water down the fire and we are ready to go.
So the next time you get the urge to head out
of town but your budget is tight, remember your
tax dollars at work and enjoy the beauty and affordability of our parks.
54
Planning Your Trip
Dale Borgeson
Trip planning can either be a big
deal or trivial depending on your
style. Some people need to plan
every detail and pick every nit. You
might think these people are overly
obsessive but they do seem to enjoy
it sometimes as much as the trip itself! I pour over maps and spend a
lot of time running proposed routes
through various trip planning software packages. Here the web is
invaluable because you can easily
research areas and determine in advance the places that you want to
visit and the sights you plan to see.
If you’re one of those obsessive
types mentioned above and want to
plan each evening’s stay and every
stop and break during each day’s
ride you’ll find the computerized trip
planning software very useful. There
are many of these software packages available and it is a plus if your
route planning software is compatible with GPS navigation systems.
These
trip-planning
packages
can also help whether you are staying in campgrounds or in hotels/mo-
If you can, get the maps for each
tels along the way. In many of these
state you’ll be going through (or
programs you can “turn on” an op-
think that you may go through) be-
If you are the free spirit type that
tion that will show whatever features
fore you leave home. If you are on
likes “winging it” then each morning
you are searching for (such as ho-
a major highway and see a Visitor/
figure out where you’d like to be at
tels, campgrounds and restaurants)
Welcome Center when you enter
the end of the day and work your
along the way. Another feature is
a state, these are great for getting
way in that direction - just be ready
the ability to print overview maps,
tourist information and most of them
to end up somewhere else. Look
strip maps and turn-by-turn maps of
will give you a free road map of the
for small twisty lines - those are the
your route. You should still pack a
state. Big road atlases are OK but
good ride roads.
good map for each area you are vis-
they don’t have the detail of indi-
iting in case you leave your planned
vidual state maps, they are too big
Interstate Highways are usually,
route.
for easy storage, and they won’t fit in
but not always, the most boring but
56
the map window of a tank bag.
Touring Tips
Some other things that may indicate a good road are:
As a rule of thumb, it’s difficult to
consistently average more than 50
mph over the whole day, at least
• roads designated as
when you’re just starting touring. A
America’s Byways - byways.org
more reasonable average speed is
45 mph. This means that if you are
• roads through national forests
willing to ride 10 hours you can expect to do 450 to 500 miles in a day.
• isolated roads
If you stop a lot or are playing tourist your average speed will be much
• roads with altitude changes
lower. To give you a feel for what this
(the greater the better)
means I’ve made a table to summarize a day’s travel.
• roads along rivers
(smaller the better)
A Typical Day’s Schedule
you’ll make the best time. US and
• roads that don't seem to go any-
ACTIVITY
major state highways can be the
where in particular
500 mi @ 65mph
worst for traffic but may encompass
(i.e. there's not a town at either end)
Gas stop
00:20
some of the areas most important
DURATION
7:40
Breakfast
00:30
history icons. If they connect met-
• roads that go across areas that
Break
00:10
ropolitan areas they’ll have traffic
other roads don't cross
Gas Stop
00:20
and the bigger the cities the worse
(there's usually a good reason)
Lunch/Gas Stop
00:30
the traffic. When they’re two lanes
Gas Stop
00:20
and are full of cars they’re awful. If
• roads that run through a valley
Break
00:10
they’re in a more isolated area they
(with a river is better)
Total Time
10:00
may not be too bad.
Be flexible and take a good road
The state and county roads have
if you come across it. I once ended
For example, you decide to go
the most potential. Be aware that
up on Missouri 19 from Steelville to Al-
500 miles on a particular day and
some state and many county roads
ton just because it seemed to be the
you plan to leave at 7:00 a.m. and
are not on most highway maps. Even
most direct route from Hannibal to
arrive at your destination at 5:00
if the one that you start on is on the
the Ozark Mountains in Arkansas. It
p.m. To do this you need to average
map it can intersect a road that’s not
was awesome! I added a half day to
50 mph. Assume that you go 65 mph
on the map and you can easily get
my trip just to re-ride several sections
whenever you’re moving and know
lost. County roads that are paved
because they were so much fun.
that you must stop for gas about
sometimes turn into dirt roads and
dirt roads sometimes dead-end.
every 100 miles. This means you will
Daily Mileage
have to make 4 gas stops including
restroom breaks and a lunch break.
Roads marked as “scenic” often
When you do your trip plan, either
If each stop averages only 30 min-
are good but not always. I’ve taken
in advance or on the road, it’s im-
utes you will burn up all of your
some “scenic” roads that were the
portant to realistically plan your dai-
“down time” and you will have to
pits. More than once I’ve wondered
ly mileage. It’s important because if
make the 8 hours of actual seat time
if the person who made the map was
your expectations are different from
average 65 mph. If you are with a
on drugs the day that s/he decided
what’s possible you won’t be very
group you can expect the “stops” to
to designate the road as “scenic”.
happy and your trip won’t be fun.
take longer and occur more often
57
Touring Tips
All of the above problems have
similar or identical symptoms. Only a
fair amount of experimentation will
give you the cause of the problem.
After a few day-trips, try a weekend - still beginning and ending at
home. Next you could try a 1500 to
2000 mile trip over a 4-day weekend.
Doing 500 miles in one day can be
a lot different than doing the same
distance four days in a row. After a
few weekends you will have a good
idea what sort of daily mileage you
can handle and then can try your
first one-week trip.
If you are touring with other peoas we know that endurance is only
comfortable and still keep the cops
ple be sure that your riding styles are
as strong as weakest bladder in your
off your back. Try not to stop except
compatible and your entire group
group!
for gas.
is comfortable with whatever daily
schedule is set. It is very unsettling
Can you do this? Should you do
How did it feel? What body parts
to try to keep up with a group that is
this? Do you even want to do this?
are sore? Can you walk normally?
riding faster and more aggressively
You won’t really know till you try it
Any problems could mean one or
than you feel comfortable riding. It
sometime. In a car it’s a piece of
more of a number of things:
also creates a potentially dangerous
cake (unless there are small children
situation to ride at a level that is out-
in the car) but on a motorcycle it’s
• you may have passed your daily
side your comfort zone. It is much
tougher than you might think. Don’t
endurance capacity
better to test the group compat-
plan your first tour assuming that you
ibility on a short trip. If your group
can average 50mph. If you discover
• you need to get used to riding
is large enough consider breaking
over time that you can really rack
the distance by doing it a few more
into smaller groups where you can
up the miles, that’s great but don’t
times
ride with other people who have
count on it for your first couple of
trips.
If you’ve never toured before, I’d
similar riding styles and perhaps set
• you need to change something
up points to meet up at particular
about your bike to make it more
times.
comfortable
Route influences on
recommend setting up some trial
rides as a test. Loosely plan a one-
• you might be doing something
day trip of between 200 and 500
wrong for your comfort, ie., how you
miles starting and ending at home.
put your feet on the pegs or hold
The distance should be long enough
the bars
that you need to stop at least twice
daily mileage
You need to consider why you
are making a motorcycle trip. Do
you want to just get in a lot of rid-
for gas if you start with a full tank.
• you aren’t doing something you
ing or do you want to take a lot of
Don’t try to go too fast -- just go
should be doing, like stretching
pictures and do a lot of sightseeing
whatever speed at which you are
58
along the way. That trip to Yosem-
Touring Tips
ite might be a once-in-a-lifetime
opportunity for those photos and
those memories. Taking some extra
time to experience the area may be
what separates a good trip from a
great trip. Personally, when I tour I
plan my daily segments to be 300
miles or less so I will have time to stop
and “smell the roses” as they say. If
I am in an extremely scenic area my
forward movement mileage goal for
the day may drop down to 100 miles
or less. Chances are I will ride more
than that but it will be to explore the
area not to gain miles toward my final destination.
The 45 to 55 mph average speed
rule of thumb can vary a lot depending on a host of influences. The
major influences are:
• type of road
• traffic and population density
• weather
Types of Road
Two lane roads are more interesting and I prefer riding on them but
they will produce a lower average
speed than Interstates. Averaging 50
mph on a rural Interstate is way slow
(for me) while doing 50mph on most
rural two lane roads is very fast - especially east of the Mississippi where
there seems to be a town every five
miles.
You’ll get lower daily mileage on
significantly reduce your average
lane roads and in towns than there
speed.
are on divided highways.
two lane roads for several reasons.
Two lane roads have a lot of towns
Two lane roads are more tiring.
The hazard density on two lane
and you have to slow down and
They require a lot more of your at-
roads is about 10 times what it is on
maybe even stop at a few traffic
tention than Interstates. Your level
the Interstate. Because you fatigue
lights. If the towns are fairly close to-
of concentration is higher because
faster on two lane roads you need
gether this can take a lot of time and
there are a lot more hazards on two
to take more breaks.
59
Touring Tips
Pay attention to your level of fatigue. Don’t try to tough it out; it’s not
worth the risk. If you’re tired, stop, if
you’re really tired, stop for the day. If
this screws up your schedule, tough,
stop anyhow.
You also can’t go as fast on two
lane roads, at least not on most of
them. The speed limit on most twolane roads is 55. Going 65 is probably
pushing it for both safety and speeding tickets. Out in Nevada or Wyoming you can blast along with little
risk except maybe a ticket. In more
built up agricultural areas 65 or so is
about as fast as you can safely go.
Weather
It’s pretty obvious that if the
weather turns bad you should slow
down. Bad weather usually means
reduced traction or reduced visibility, or both, and that means lower
speeds. If you have proper riding
gear rain will only reduce your average speed about 5 to 10mph. If you
have lousy gear you will be miserable and therefore fatigue faster and
that can really kill your mileage.
Cold weather alone won’t affect your mileage as long as you
have the right clothes and it’s not
too cold. If you don’t have the right
60
Touring Tips
clothes it will severely slow your progress and you might even kill yourself
- hypothermia is nasty. Hot weather
will also slow you down - how much
depends on your gear and your personal tolerance to heat.
The point here is that weather
is not predictable so when you encounter bad weather accept that
your daily mileage will be reduced
and that you may completely screw
up your schedule. This is part of touring and will happen; count on it.
The Bottom Line on Endurance
In the end your daily mileage
doesn’t matter. What matters is that
your mileage matches what you
can do and want to see. If you want
to stop at Yellowstone or the Grand
Tetons and ogle the mountain goats
don’t plan on doing 500 miles that
day - if you try you’ll be unhappy. Remember, this is supposed to be fun.
Be realistic.
The biggest mistake many people
make is planning too many miles in
be in a particular town on a particu-
a day. Usually they do this because
lar day and they overextend them-
they decide that they just have to
selves to make it. I’ve done 900-plus
61
Touring Tips
mile days with no ill effects but I’m
All Roads Lead Somewhere
used to it and I like doing it. However
By Lisa Breen
The calm peacefulness of the
back roads is so much more relax-
if you’re going to do that sort of mile-
ing than the blur of the freeways;
age you’re going be riding all day
Our ever-changing world speeds
the slow ride allows me to observe
and a good part of the night and
past at an alarming rate. Our insa-
the nature of the area as well as the
not see anything unless it’s from the
tiable appetite for instant gratifica-
people. I often ride until I find just
seat of your bike while it’s moving.
tion seems to grow with wild aban-
such a town square where I can sit
Again, it’s not necessarily a problem
don. I can’t help but wonder what
and chat on the porch of a local ice-
if you know what to expect. If you
we might be missing as our lives pass
house or country store or gas station.
think you might want to do this sort
in a blur.
The people I meet are always more
of thing (it’s called “Iron Butt” riding
for obvious reasons) work up to it.
than willing to tell me the things that
When was the last time we took
are not on my map. They will sagely
the long way home? Whatever hap-
advise me on the prettiest ride from
If you’re going to do any real high
pened to the road less traveled? As
here to there, the best fishing spot
mileage days, try to put them at the
a biker I can answer these questions,
or an affordable place to lay my
beginning of the trip, not the end.
and I hope that you can also.
head. They never hesitate to say
Also try to have a non-riding or very
low mileage day, say not more than
“while you’re there turn off the main
I find
road for a bit and stop by this or see
200 miles, every five days, at least
myself riding through our rural land-
Search out these roads.
that…. you can’t miss it “… and you‘ll
until you know your limits.
scape and away from the bustling
be glad you did …”.
city. I find folks sitting on benches
Take it easy on the way home, a
outside the local diner, the town
As I enjoy the beauty of the un-
lot of people decide that the trip is
squares, or the barbershop.
They
obstructed panoramic view from
over and that they want to get home
seem to be patiently waiting for
my perch on this bike, I remember
now. Most touring accidents are on
nothing and everything to happen.
that it is about the experience of the
the last two days of the trip, on the
Neighbors stop rather than pass by,
trip, not the race against the clock
way home. The trip isn’t over until
just to see how each other is doing.
to reach my destination. It’s about
you pull into your driveway. Don’t
the people that ride, as I do, to the
get the “I gotta get home” fever at
Still, it amazes me after years of
the end – it could cost you more
city dwelling at how the time seems
than the extra time will take.
to slow once I enter a small town.
unknown.
They wave to me on the back
roads as they pass me going in the
opposite direction, knowing that
they have just seen what is about to
unfold for me.
The road less traveled still exists. It
might read “Farm Road” or “Ranch
Road” or “Lake Drive” or “Coastal” or
“Mountain Road”. You have to slow
down to see the turnoffs but they
are there. It will take a little longer to
get you where you‘re headed, if you
even care where that is.
62
Lake Louise in Banff, Canada seems to be one of the most beautiful locations on earth as you may well agree when
you take the opportunity to look at the photos from this month’s feature. The photographer of the photo above is Diane
Wood, an artist living in Longmont, Colorado, who during a visit to this Canadian area put her artist’s eye to the lens with
the result being this stunning photo.
In 1999, Diane and her husband Ken, made a cross-country move to Colorado and began her journey into the art
world. Diane refers to herself as a “representational” artist – one who is inspired by what she sees.
Diane’s philosophy sums up her photo of Lake Louise, “If I can reach the viewer with the same inspiration that caught
my eye I feel I have succeeded.”
The piece that Diane painted from the Lake Louise scene is equally compelling. Visit her website at www.dianewoodartist.com and if you are in Longmont, CO stop by and visit her studio.
63

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