Impression - Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers

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T U F T S
C O M M U N I C A T I O N S
F I N E
J E W E L R Y
P U B L I C A T I O N
MAGAZINE
Invincible World of Rolex
There’s Something About Cate
Beauty in Contrast
Hollywood’s Reach
Fall Fashion Colors
The
Women feel pretty in
Penny Preville
making an
Impression
AUTUMN/HOLIDAY 2013 • ISSUE 2
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oys ter perpe tual date jus t
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oyster perpetual and datejust are trademarks.
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Warmest personal greetings from all of us at Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers.
This year we look forward to the opportunity to share with you our passion for exquisite jewelry. We are pleased to present our
second edition of Fredric H. Rubel Magazine.
Year after year, we endeavor to stay ahead of the latest jewelry and watch industry trends and innovations, while staying true to our
high standards and objectives: to give the utmost attention to customer service, to provide knowledgeable sales assistance and guidance
in a friendly and truthful manner, and to offer great value and unsurpassed quality with every purchase. We pride ourselves in our commitment to our customers and each other. We are dedicated to creating an experience that allows those who visit our store to enter as
customers, but leave as members of the Rubel family.
Couture jewelry retailers make up only one half of one percent of all the jewelers in the country. We are proud to be recognized as
one of these jewelers. As a Couture jeweler, we are invited to work with an exceptionally talented group of internationally renowned
designers and luxury brands. We strive to provide our customers with the world’s most unique styles and designs, made with the highest
level of craftsmanship. At Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers, you don’t have to settle for the ordinary because you can attain the extraordinary.
The Rubel family and staff welcome the opportunity to help you select the perfect gift to honor those who give special meaning to
your life. We treasure the experience of being part of your celebrations, from generation to generation.
In closing, may this coming year be one of good health, joyous occasions and prosperity. Many of you have been loyal customers and
friends for a long time. We are grateful for your continuing friendship and patronage. As always, we appreciate the experience of sharing
your personal celebrations. We look forward to seeing you soon!
With gratitude,
The Rubel Family
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© d. yurman 2013
contents
I S S U E
T W O
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F R E D R I C
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R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
3Welcome
9
The Invincible World of Rolex
p15
12 Good Karma, Great Style
15 Beauty in Contrast
18 There’s Something About Cate
22 Bold in Gold
26 Making an Impression
30 Ferdinand Porsche
p18
34 The History of Engagement Rings
38 Hollywood’s Reach
36 Fit to be Teed
44 Eileen Fisher for Women
48 Fall Fashion Colors
p56
52 Good Grooming
54 Cufflinks to Karma Beads
56 Amore in Italy’s Wine Country
Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director
Carol Besler • Assistant Editorial Director
Larry Stuart • Art Director
Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor
Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer
Ron Saltiel/RSP Media • Select Jewelry Photography
*Prices subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.
Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012
T: 765-608-3081 • E: todd@tuftscom.com • © 2013, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.
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C A R O L
designer spotlight
B E S L E R
the
invincible
world of
From tennis champions to underwater
explorers, Rolex makes timepieces for
those who test the limits.
The new Cosmograph Daytona, with ice-blue dial
and platinum case is a collector’s piece.
F R E D R I C
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[9
T
The world of Rolex is all about performance. The company uses
high-grade 904L steel, which is much harder than the industry
standard (the company designed its own tools to work with it) and
manufactures its own ceramic bezels — and of course, builds its
own movements. The result is that Rolex watches are engineered
for performance and live up to the name of the world’s most
famous watch brand. But Rolex is also about celebrating the performance of others. Many of the world’s top athletes have served
or currently serve as Rolex ambassadors, and the brand is associated with some of the world’s most important sporting events, from
Wimbledon Tennis to the US Open Golf Championship.
Rolex is the Official Timekeeper of the
Wimbledon Championships, a Global Partner
of Formula 1 racing, Official Timekeeper of
the U.S. Open Golf Championship and, in the
equestrian world, sponsor of the Rolex Grand
Slam of Show Jumping: CHIO Aachen, the
CSIO Spruce Meadows Masters Tournament
and CHI Geneva. Rolex also sponsors several yachting events, including the Maxi Yacht
Rolex Cup and the Rolex Swan Cup, both off
the coast of Sardinia, the Rolex Fastnet Race
in the Celtic Sea and the Rolex Sydney Hobart
Yacht Race in Australia.
10
The Rolex Yachtmaster II,
with an advanced
countdown system.
Rolex also has a roster of high-performance timepieces to match
the prowess of these champions. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Cosmograph Daytona is one of the brand’s most important new
This extensive involvement in the world of sports is reinforced
models this year. The distinctive ice-blue dial is only available on
by an impressive roster of brand ambassadors, including cham-
the brand’s platinum editions, including the new Daytona. To
pion golfers Adam Scott and Tiger Woods, racing legend Tom
date, there have only been four others issued with this combina-
Kristensen, tennis great Roger Federer, Yachtsman Paul Cayard
tion, making it something rare and collectible. The Daytona was
and equestrian Meredith Michaels-Beerbaum.
originally introduced in 1963, and was a favorite of Paul Newman.
]
F R E D R I C
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The Oyster Perpetual GMT Master II is another important new introduction, in
904L steel, a proprietary Rolex high-grade steel, with a rotating bezel that represents
a first: it is made of a two-color ceramic Cerachrom bezel insert in blue and black representing day and night. The two colors are perfectly melded together, with no visible
seam between the two, by a unique process developed and patented by Rolex which
allows this ceramic component with two distinct colors to be produced as a single piece.
Cerachrom is scratch-proof, corrosion-resistant and color-fast. The movement, made by
Rolex, has a Parachrom hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive
alloy. Insensitive to magnetic fields, the Parachrom hairspring offers great stability when
exposed to temperature variations and remains up to 10 times more precise in case of
shocks than a traditional hairspring.
It is the perfect watch for the adventurers who inhabit the world of Rolex.
Rolex has equipped numerous expeditions over the years with Oyster
watches developing professional models — veritable tool-watches
whose functions go beyond simply telling time. These watches
were intended for specialists — divers, pilots, mountaineers, scientists and cavers — and all those who share similar passions.
The brand has sponsored many expeditions, including to the
Marianas Trench, Mount Everest and both the North and
South Pole.
Finally, Ladies’ watches are an important part of the
world of Rolex, and the new Oyster Perpetual Lady
Datejust Pearlmaster is testament to the brand’s crafts-
The Oyster Perpetual
Day-Date Sertie, in 18k
gold, set with diamonds
and mother-of-pearl.
manship. The case and bracelet are made of 18k Everose
gold, created by Rolex in its own foundry, with a bezel and
bracelet links in 18k white gold. Both bezel and bracelet
links are exquisitely set with diamonds, while the dial is
adorned with black or white mother-of-pearl and features a
lotus flower motif in a pink-gold tone.
It was a Lady Datejust Pearlmaster Chronometer that Rolex
ambassador Cecilia Bartoli wore when she sang at a gala concert in
Salzburg in 2006 celebrating the 250th anniversary of Mozart’s birth.
The Rolex Lady Datejust
Pearlsmaster, in 18k
gold, with an automatic
movement.
F R E D R I C
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[ 11
designer spotlight
Good
Karma
Great
TYLE
S
the Evil Eye Collection
This season, Aaron Basha, the luxury jeweler known best for their
whimsical and unique creations, introduces the newest additions
to their trendsetting “Evil Eye” collection. Modern masterpieces
mixed with mystical allure, Aaron Basha’s enchanting “Evil
Eye” designs truly define artful opulence and are a symbol of
protection.
Beautifully hand-crafted, the tempting talismans are adorned in
enamel and diamonds set in 18k gold shedding a stunning light
on their fabled power. Aaron Basha reveals a fresh translation
of this timeless concept. The new collection features a pave
diamond “Evil Eye” strung from twinkling chains of 18k gold, and
the popular symbol represented in contemporary styles fastened
to an elegant silk cord.
The Evil Eye Collection has captured the attention of celebrities,
socialites and trendsetters worldwide. Spirited and radiant,
shimmering and sultry, the elegant “Evil Eye” collection
combines ancient protection with cutting-edge style.
The complete Aaron Basha Evil Eye Collection is available at the
Aaron Basha flagship boutique in Manhattan, and many other
Aaron Basha fine jewelry retail partners worldwide.
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F R E D R I C
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R U BAaron
E L M Basha
A G A Z Boutique
I N E
•
685 Madison Avenue
•
NYC
•
212.935.1960
•
w w w. a a ronba sha . com
Laguna Beach 246 Forest Avenue • 949-494-3513
•
Mission Viejo 924 The Shops at Mission Viejo • 949-364-3535
w w w.rubeljewelers.com
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designer spotlight
DAVID
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YURMAN
beauty in
contrast
Fans of David Yurman jewelry and watches have something
to look forward to this fall. The iconic American brand is
introducing a collection of stylish new products, with a
stunning campaign to match.
T
Dree Hemingway, wearing a ring from the new collection, appears in the Fall 2013 campaign.
To kick off the brand’s new jewelry lines, David Yurman
is debuting its Fall 2013 lifestyle campaign, which features
Kate Upton, Dree Hemingway, Anais Mali, and Catrinel
Marlon. Shot by renowned photographer Peter Lindbergh,
the new campaign is entitled Beauty in Contrast, and has
been designed to capture the signature elegance and relaxed
American luxury of David Yurman.
“Through design, styling, and imagery, we tell a story of
contrast in all its mesmerizing beauty,” says founder David
Yurman. “Beauty is always more intriguing in contrast.” With
Beauty in Contrast, the brand celebrates the fall season with
a range of diverse elements that coexist in a delicate balance.
“Elegant and refined pieces are the perfect counterpoint to
David and wife Sybil Yurman
hosted supermodel Kate Upton,
who wore a David Yurman gold
and diamond Starburst linked
bracelet, Starburst cluster ring
and Starburst drop earrings, at the
launch of his Fall 2013 campaign.
earthy and artisanal designs. New collections are coupled
with iconic favorites, where minimalism and abundance
mingle effortlessly.”
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designer spotlight
“Through design, styling,
and imagery, we tell a
story of contrast in all its
mesmerizing beauty,” says
founder David Yurman.
“Beauty is always more
intriguing in contrast.”
Anais Mali showcases
David Yurman jewelry
in the new Beauty in
Contrast campaign.
The campaign captures a wide range of the style and
character of its models: the easy, all-American warmth of
Kate Upton, the cool, global sophistication of Anais Mali,
the patrician refinement of Dree Hemingway, and the
mysterious sensuality of Catrinel Marlon. Each of these
remarkable women are styled in a contemporary combination of the brand’s legendary selections from its Fall
2013 collection, which includes Willow and the new mini
version of the David Yurman Signature Pinky Ring. The
stylistic juxtaposition of minimalism and abundance are
seen throughout the campaign. “Graceful, feminine designs
is the counterpoint to masculine, artisanal creations.”
Black onyx bead chain
with pearls and citrine
in 18k yellow gold.
One of the new collections for
Fall 2013, Willow is represented
by a variety of pieces, such as
the Five-Row Bypass Bracelet
with pavé diamonds in 18k gold.
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18k yellow gold and black onyx
Wheaton ring.
The stylistic juxtaposition of
minimalism and abundance
is seen throughout the
campaign. Graceful,
feminine designs are
the counterpoint
to masculine,
artisanal creations.
An image from David
Yurman’s new Beauty
in Contrast campaign,
featuring Catrinel Marlon.
Inspired by the delicate flowering stems of willow, the Willow
collection includes a line of lyrical designs in bracelets, pendants,
necklaces, rings and earrings. Slender, featherlike stalks are sculpted
from the iconic cable into graceful and feminine shapes of silver and
gold accented with pavé diamonds.
Since its founding in New York in 1980, David Yurman has become
known as America’s leading fine jewelry and timepiece brand. It features a range of signature gold and silver designs, as well as diamond,
pearl, and gemstone jewelry. Over the last few years, the brand’s
American-designed, Swiss-made watch collections have become renowned for capturing
the essence of relaxed American luxury.
“We’re an American company, designing
watches in America for the American
sensibility,” says Evan Yurman, son of
founders David and Sybil Yurman, and
head of the company’s watch division.
Moonstone, silver and 18k gold Cable Coil
earrings, necklace, and ring.
F R E D R I C
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[ 17
exclusive interview
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F R E D R I C
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Cate
There’s
SomethingAbout
i n t e r v i e w
w i t h
A M Y
L O N G S D O R F
Ever since Cate Blanchett and her husband took over as the artistic directors of the Sydney Theatre Company in 2008, she’s pulled
back the reins on her movie career.
She aced supporting roles in Hannah (2011) and Robin Hood (2010) as well The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey (2012), but the last
film she headlined was 2007’s Elizabeth: The Golden Age.
With Blue Jasmine, Blanchett is back in a big way. The actress plays the title role in the Woody Allen film, a hard-core drama which
has already racked up rave reviews.
In Indiewire, Anne Thompson predicted that the Best Actress Oscar is
“Blanchett’s to lose.” Variety said that the actress’s performance
“is a brilliantly bipolar piece of acting.” And Entertainment Weekly pointed
out that Blanchett “makes Jasmine at once ardent, touching,
off-putting, and cracked in her grand delusions.”
A huge fan of Allen’s, Blanchett only spoke to the filmmaker by phone for about three minutes before, essentially, agreeing to do the
role.
“When you get a call from Woody, you take it,” says Blanchett, 44. “You’ve already said yes before you know what it is, so you just
hope it’s a good one. Of course, these films are never less than fascinating.
“I’d given up hope of ever working with him; I just thought he wasn’t interested. But the minute I read it, [I knew] the script was
fantastic. It is impeccably structured. It’s absurd and tragic, often simultaneously.”
As the title character, Blanchett brings to life a woman whose charmed existence as a Hamptons socialite comes crashing down around
her. After her financial fraudster husband (Alec Baldwin) is imprisoned, Jasmine is left with no money and no place to go.
Still retaining her snobby ways, she winds up sharing an apartment in San Francisco with her working-class sister Ginger (Sally
Hawkins) and Ginger’s boyfriend (Bobby Cannavale). Jasmine gets a job with a lecherous dentist (Michael Stuhlbarg) and pins her hopes
of finding a white knight on a wealthy diplomat (Peter Sarsgaard). Louis C.K., Tammy Blanchard, Max Casella, Alden Ehrenreich, and
Andrew Dice Clay co-star.
After anticipating what it would be like to work with Allen for so many years, Blanchett says the reality was better than she imagined.
“I had heard that [Allen] was monosyllabic, at best, in relation to the direction he gave actors, but when I asked him questions, he
responded if the questions were interesting, and if they weren’t, he waved me off and went back to his Blackberry.
“But he was great. I think he really despised and revered Jasmine. And I think he was fascinated by her. He’s fascinated by and loves
women — their exuberance, their intelligence, their fears, their phobias.”
During one discussion, Blanchett asked Allen how he’d play Jasmine if he were a woman.
“He said, `well, if I were playing Jasmine,’ and at this point he got quite Blanche DuBois-like, “ recalls Blanchett. “So I asked him if he
considered playing this role, and he thought about it for a minute and a half and said, ‘No, it would have been too comic.’ But I could
have easily imagined it. That was a movie that I would go see.”
Blanchett might be half-teasing, but early reviews of the film have picked up on the similarities between Blue Jasmine and A Streetcar
Named Desire. Strangely enough, Blanchett played Blanche in a 2009 Sydney production of the Tennessee Williams classic.
Some reviewers have also noted the parallels between Jasmine and Ruth Madoff, the wife of disgraced money manager Bernie Madoff.
But Blanchett cautions against making too much of the connection.
Visions of Cate recall Hollywood’s glamorous past
“Well, there’s a lot of people who’ve fallen from grace. But, yes,
of course, [research] is part of my job and part of the pleasure of
my job. I’d followed the Madoff scandal like everybody else. But
there’s a whole miniseries in that fiasco. Woody didn’t want [me]
to solely base [Jasmine] on that because this isn’t [Madoff’s] story.”
Ruth Madoff aside, Blanchett was immediately struck by the
movie’s timeliness, and the way it reflected a country of haves and
have-nots still struggling with high unemployment figures.
“I think [what happened to Jasmine] is happening all across
America and all over the world,” says the actress. “People’s sense
of self is being bound up in a relationship or their financial status
or their social circle, so when all of that is ripped away, you have
to, in midlife, look at yourself and say, ‘Who the hell am I?’ If you
don’t have financial security and you don’t have a support structure, then madness can pretty quickly set in.”
Swilling martinis and knocking back Xanax, Jasmine becomes
more and more unstable as the movie goes along. She also becomes
increasingly envious of the happiness Ginger seems to have.
Modulating the madness was one of Blanchett’s trickiest assignments.
“Obviously, I’m not so method that I went and took Xanax
every night but you can find amazing stuff on YouTube. It was
important for me to chart through when she’d taken a Xanax, how
many she’d taken, and if she’d mixed it with alcohol and what the
physical and mental effects would be.”
“Also, what I was trying to [portray] was that sense that, in the
beginnings of her having a panic attack, she might break out in a
sweat, yet everything else is completely fine. Her physical state and
her psychological state were interesting balls to try and [juggle].”
If anyone can juggle Jasmine’s contradictions, it’s Blanchett,
who can, seemingly, do anything. This is a woman who’s played
Queen Elizabeth I, Kate Hepburn, and Bob Dylan.
She’s toggled effortlessly from leading roles in The Good
German and Veronica Guerin to supporting parts in The Talented
Mr. Ripley and The Curious Case of Benjamin Button. She’s also
managed to embrace both blockbusters (the Lord of the Rings
movies, Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull) and
art-house fare (Heaven, Notes on a Scandal).
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She’s been nominated for six Oscars, and she’s won once for
playing Hepburn in The Aviator. If she wins for Blue Jasmine, she’ll
be in the same company as Diane Keaton (Annie Hall), Mira Sorvino
(Mighty Aphrodite), Penelope Cruz (Vicky Christina Barcelona) and
Dianne Wiest (Hannah and Her Sisters, Bullets Over Broadway), all
of whom have netted Oscars for Woody Allen movies.
How would Blanchett rank Jasmine in relation to Allen’s other
classic heroines?
“I’m not going to go into the ranking thing. I’d think I’m at
the bottom, but I’m so privileged to be playing the title role in a
Woody Allen film. When you think about Diane Keaton in Annie
Hall and Judy Davis [in Husbands and Wives], they’re just brilliant
[performances]. [Keaton and Davis helped] create fascinating,
unique, shape-shifting, mind-bending characters.”
Blanchett’s turn in Blue Jasmine is just the beginning of a rash of
film work. In addition to popping up as the elf queen Galadriel in
the remaining films in the Hobbit series, she’ll also share the screen
with George Clooney in the Clooney-directed The Monuments
Men, a World War II-era thriller about the efforts of art historians
to reclaim some of Europe’s greatest paintings from the Nazis.
She’s completed Terrence Malick’s Knight of Cups and will play
the wicked stepmother in the Kenneth Branagh-directed live-action Cinderella. Also upcoming is Todd Haynes’s lesbian romance
Carol, in which she stars opposite Mia Wasikowska.
Blanchett still calls her native Australia home.
She lives there with screenwriter-husband Andrew
Upton and their three boys, ages 12, 9, and 5.
The family travels with the actress wherever
she goes, as much for her sake as theirs.
“When my children are with me, they’re not interested if you’re
playing Blanche DuBois or Jasmine, they just want you to help
them do their homework, play with them, and feed them,” says
Blanchett. “So, I find that a great leveler. It means you have to
switch off.”
Pois Moi Collection
designer spotlight
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Roberto Coin makes a statement
From the Pois Moi collection: four-row diamond
cuff in 18k rose and white gold; four-row cuff in
18k rose gold; double-row square ring in 18k
rose gold; double-row square diamond ring in
18k rose and white gold.
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SCALARE COLLECTION
The new Pois Moi collection has an
ultra-modern edge with a touch of
vintage — perfect for women
of any age.
From the Pois Moi collection: diamond chain
necklace in 18k yellow and white gold; diamond
chain bracelet in 18k yellow and white gold.
R
Roberto Coin never does anything in a small way. Just four short years after
he conceived his brand in 1996, he was acclaimed as number seven on the list
of best-known jewelry brands in the United States. And if that doesn’t leave
you breathless, a mere two years after that he ranked third on the international scene and first in Italy. Some might say it is his bold-yet-relatable designs.
Others might say it’s the quality of his products and his well-developed business acumen. The reality? It’s all of the above and so much more, with each
new collection further revealing the brand and the man we’ve come to know
and love.
The new Pois Moi collection has an ultra-modern edge with a touch of
vintage — perfect for women of any age. It offers a unique combination of
style cues, all within the context of high-polished white, yellow and rose gold
— the newest look for this season.
“After the huge success of the Appassionata collection, I was looking for something with an innovative design that could become a signature style as Appassionata
did,” says Roberto Coin.
Appassionata’s basket-weave architecture took the jewelry world by storm,
and it was no doubt a hard act to follow. But it appears Coin succeeded. Each
piece in Pois Moi is a fresh example of the designer’s courageous insight. In
particular, the characteristic “soft square” silhouette finds its inspiration in an Italian
vintage trend: the “television shape”
reminiscent of the old TV monitors
from the 1950s.
18k rose and white gold pave
ring. $6400
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Moresque diamond
earrings. $10,600
designer spotlight
From the Pois Moi collection: padlock pendant
in 18k yellow and white gold; diamond padlock
pendant in 18k yellow and white gold.
Three row twist diamond
pave ring. $11,400
The new Black Jade collection, too, reveals a memorable
profile, once again in the context of sleek gold, with black jade
and other gemstones.
“I am extremely proud to be the first one to introduce black
jade from Africa to the jewelry world,” says Coin of the collection.
The designer’s boundless creativity is beautifully harnessed in the
recently launched brand, The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin
The designer’s boundless creativity is beautifully harnessed
in the recently launched brand, The Fifth Season by Roberto
Coin that, as its name implies, offers an organic medley of
materials — silver, yellow and gold plating — presented as
dynamic and strong companions. This, says Coin, is symbolic
of an elegance that “participates in the world’s frenetic rhythm
without falling apart.”
In May 2013, at the Andrea Palladio International Jewelry
Awards in Vicenza, Italy, Roberto Coin was presented with an
international award for the Best Jewelry Brand in Corporate
Social Responsibility. The brand was honored for its
constant commitment to promoting the values of
sustainability, responsibility and ethics in the
international jewelry community.
Primavera diamond rectangle bracelet $3600
Primavera rose gold round bracelet $2300
Primavera white gold flat bracelet $2900
Primavera rose gold flat bracelet $2900
Primavera yellow gold round bracelet with
Smokey quartz $1700
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designer spotlight
b y
making an
Impression
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Pink sapphire and
moonstone imperial
enhancer from the Pink
Sapphire collection.
Women feel pretty in Penny Preville
A born creator and diehard doodler, Penny Preville has been
designing fine jewelry for over 30 years, and each collection
reveals as much about the artist as it does about her art.
“I am influenced by fashion and culture,” says the award-winning designer, “but I also believe in continuity. A designer should
remain true to her style.”
And Preville does just that. While her earlier My Blue Heaven
expressed her love of the color blue, the new Impressionist collection is an artful take on diamonds and gemstones as perceived
through her imaginative eye. Not surprisingly, blue remains a
recurring theme, since “different shades of blue symbolize varying
things for me — serenity, loyalty, good fortune, fidelity and calmness,” she says.
The Impressionist Aqua earrings
offer a perfect balance between
glittering 18k gold and dazzling
diamonds, while large water-blue
gems take center stage. The diamonds around the perimeter are
delicately rose cut — a technique
used since the mid 16th century
— conjuring an overall design that
is at once utterly modern and sublimely classical. The Aqua cocktail
ring, also from the Impressionist
collection, is a bold reprise, with
rose-cut diamonds once again surrounding the blue center stone.
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F R E D R I C
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R U B E L
blue remains a
recurring theme,
since “different shades
of blue symbolize
varying things for me —
serenity, loyalty, good
fortune, fidelity and
calmness,” she says.
M A G A Z I N E
Aqua Marine, Moonstone,
and Diamond earrings.
$4395
designer spotlight
Preville, whose goal is to create
pieces that “make a woman look
and feel fabulous,” understands
that “wearability” is at the top of the
list when it comes to what women
want in a piece of fine jewelry.
Thus her creations, while adventurous and daring, are also the perfect choice for whatever the day may hold, dressy or casual, active
or not. The Emerald City, for example, offers a splendid array of
emerald-set jewelry in 18k white or yellow gold — suitable for day
or night. The cushion-cut emerald ring, a newer member of the
collection, is a fearless symphony of a saturated green gemstone and
white gold, with a glittering staccato of diamonds.
Emerald beaded
earrings from
the Emerald City
collection. $2950
Accolades for Preville’s work are many, including the Blenheim
Award for Continued Excellence in Design, Town & Country’s
Diamond
Designers
Excellence
Award
and
Outstanding
Achievement in Advertising and Marketing Award, and The
Women’s Jewelers Association Award for Excellence in Design.
Early in her career, in 1978, she was named Designer of the Year
at the Jewelers of America Show in New York, undoubtedly foretelling the trajectory of her future.
Celebrities, too, feel pretty in Penny Preville, frequently showcasing her designs on the red carpet and in movie and television
productions, as well as in their “everyday” lives. Nicole Kidman,
Mira Sorvino, Eva Longoria, Sandra Bullock, Anne Hathaway and
many more favor her work, as did the iconic Jackie Onassis.
As for her doodling? No doubt it’s the work of her creative mind,
relentless in its gifted perception.
Yellow gold emerald
ring. $2665
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F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
18k Diamond Eyeglass
chain. $1595
Emerald pear shaped
pendant. $2895
legendary automaker
Ferdinand Porsche
A Historical Look at The Most Iconic Name in Racing
b y
T O D D
T U F T S
THE ORIGIN
On September 3, 1875, Ferdinand Porsche is born in the Bohemian town of Maffersdorf. In
1889, after attending grammar school there and the Staatsgewerbeschule (State Vocational School)
in Reichenberg, he enters his father’s business as an apprentice plumber.
The following year, The Lohner-Porsche electric car is presented at the World Fair in Paris. The wheel hub engines of the young
engineer Ferdinand Porsche bring him international attention. In
the same year, he develops an all-wheel-drive racecar, as well as a hybrid petrol/electric vehicle — a
world first.
By 1906, Ferdinand Porsche had become the Technical Director at Austro-Daimler in Wiener
Neustadt. At the age of only 31, he is responsible for the model range of
one of Europe’s largest automotive concerns. Three years later, Ferdinand’s
son, later known as Ferry, is born on September 19th in Wiener Neustadt.
Ferdinand then began his long love affair with car racing. In 1910, The
Austro-Daimler touring car designed by Ferdinand Porsche scored a triple
victory in the Prince Henry Trials. At the wheel of the winning car sits none other than Ferdinand Porsche
himself.
By his 48th birthday, Ferdinand becomes the Technical Director and a Board Member of the DaimlerMotoren-Gesellschaft in Stuttgart. He soon designs the legendary Mercedes Compressor Sports Car.
Immediately, the 2-litre racecar developed under his aegis wins the Targa Florio. The Mercedes-Benz S-Type
models he designed continue to dominate international
motorsports through 1927.
In 1931, Ferdinand Porsche opened an office for
engineering and consultation on engine and vehicle
design in Stuttgart. Created for such renowned manufacturers as Wanderer, Zündapp and NSU are not only
entire vehicles, but such trend-setting detail
solutions as the Porsche torsion bar suspension.
THE BEETLE
The year is 1933 — a tenuous time in
Germany. For Auto Union, Porsche develops a Grand Prix racecar with a 16-cylinder
engine in mid-ship configuration. The rear-engine vehicle concept designed for the compact car
(Type 32) developed for NSU is ultimately incorporated in the Volkswagen Beetle. The following year the company receives an official order for the design and construction of a German
Volkswagen. Only one year later, the VW prototype is test driven. The Ur Beetle is assembled in the garage of the Porsche villa
in Stuttgart.
In 1935, Ferdinand Alexander Porsche is born in Stuttgart. He
is the eldest son of Ferry Porsche.
Over the next 9 years, Ferdinand oversees construction of production facilities for Volkswagen
and is instrumental in the growth and popularity of VW’s Beetle. During the year 1939 Porsche built
long-distance endurance competition race cars nicknamed The
Berlin–Rom-Wagen. These incredible racers are considered the
forefathers of all later Porsche sports cars.
Owing to the wartime conditions of 1944, Ferdinand moves
the Porsche KG engineering office to Gmünd in the Austrian
province of Carinthia. Two years later, under the direction of
Ferdinand’s son Ferry, design of an all-wheel drive Grand Prix
racecar — the ‘Cisitalia’ (Type 360) — is begun for Italian industrialist Piero Dusio.
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F R E D R I C
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R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
HAPPY 50th BIRTHDAY 911.
2014 Porsche 911 Turbo S
6 0 5 F w y @ F i re s t o n e , N o r w a l k , C A 9 0 6 5 0 | 8 0 0 . 9 8 9 . 1 6 0 3 | m c k e n n a c a r s . c o m
legendary automaker
THE FAMED PORSCHE 356 IS BORN
At the age of 72, Ferdinand realizes his family’s dream. In
1948, the 356 becomes the first sports car to bear the Porsche
name. No. 1, as it is known, is roadcertified in June. Just one
month later, the lightweight mid-engine roadster wins its first
class victory at the Innsbruck Stadtrennen.
With the class victory of a 356 SL at the 24 Hours of Le
Mans in 1950, the young sports car manufacturer Porsche
wins international acclaim. That same year, with the 356 in
full production back in Germany, company founder Ferdinand
Porsche died at the age of 75.
In 1953, the infamous Porsche 550 Spyder debuts at the
Paris Auto Show. Powered by an extremely quick 4-camshaft engine, the light and agile
racecar scores countless international triumphs.
THE 356 WRITES ITS LAST CHAPTERS
In 1956, coinciding with the company’s
25th anniversary celebrations, the 10,000th
Porsche 356 leaves the factory. At the Targa
Florio, the Porsche 550 A Spyder logs an
overall victory for the first time.
Throughout the early ’60s, Porsche dominates the European racing circuit with
more overall victories at the Targa Florio and the 12 Hours of Sebring. One year in
Formula 2, Porsche finishes first, second, and third in the 150 Miles of Aintree in
Great Britain. In 1962, the 50,000th Porsche, a 356 B, rolls off the assembly line. In
Weissach, the first segment of the new test grounds becomes operational. In Formula
1, Porsche wins the French Grand Prix.
PORSCHE 911 — THE LEGEND ARRIVES
In 1964, Porsche 911 launched in the previous year as the 901 goes into series production. Two years later, presented as the Safety Cabriolet, the Porsche 911Targa is
introduced and enters series production. In 1968, Porsche achieves its first overall victory
at the 24 Hours of Daytona with the Type 907-8. The grand successes of the previous
year at the 1,000-kilometre race on the Nürburgring and the Targa Florio are repeated.
The 911T wins the Monte Carlo Rally. The following year, Porche again wins the Monte
Carlo Rally, the Targa Florio, and for the first time, wins the World Championship of
Makes with the 908/02 and the new 917.
More Porsches were introduced over the next four decades, including the 914, 924,
928, 944, 959, Boxster, Carrera GT, Cayenne, Cayman, and the all-new Panamera but
none have enjoyed the loyalty or longevity of the famed 911, now entering it’s 46th year
in production.
THE PORSCHE PRINCIPLE
The Porsche Principle is Porsche’s Magna Carta. It is based on
values and philosophies that, together, create added value. The
Porsche Principle is about a company that consistently goes its
own way. In public life. they decline subsidies. Social acceptance
is paramount to Porsche. On the business base issue, Porsche is
committed to Germany and is proud of the “Made in Germany”
cachet. Porsche has definite ideas on how they develop and produce their vehicles. In addition to maximum cost-effectiveness,
vehicles must comply to the incredibly high standards Porsche
established for themselves. Quality, environmental protection,
and safety are what counts most. Porsche integrates their suppliers in the development process from the very first new car
concept. The Porsche Principle
is also about responsibility to
the customer, and to Porsche’s
heritage — a heritage rooted in motorsport, where Porsche has written history on the track. Porsche
concentrates on what they do best: building sports cars.
The author’s 2004 Porsche 911 C4S
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F R E D R I C
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R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
JAMES DEAN and the PORSCHE 550
The year was 1954. The Porsche 550, already famous in racing circles,
was soon to earn international fame.
James Dean received his big movie break in 1954 when he was
chosen to play Cal Trask, the leading male role in the film East of Eden
(1955). Quickly following East of Eden, Dean was signed to play Jim Stark
in Rebel Without a Cause (1955), the film for which he is best remembered.
Immediately following the filming for Rebel Without a Cause, Dean played
the lead role in Giant.
As Dean’s movie career began to take off, he also started to race cars.
In March 1955, Dean raced in the Palm Springs Road Races, and in May of that year, he raced in the Minter Field Bakersfield race and
the Santa Barbara Road Races.
Dean liked to go fast. In September 1955, he replaced his white Porsche 356 Super Speedster (pictured above) with a new silver Porsche
550 Spyder. Dean had the car specialized by having the number 130 painted on both the front and back. Also painted on the back of the
car was “Little Bastard,” the nickname given to him by Bill Hickman, his dialogue coach for Giant.
On September 30, 1955, James was driving his new Porsche 550 Spyder to an auto rally in Salinas, California, when tragedy struck.
Originally planning to tow the Porsche to the rally, Dean changed his mind at the last minute and decided to drive it instead. While Dean
and Rolf Wuetherich, Dean’s mechanic, rode in the Porsche, Dean had friends follow him in his Ford station wagon, which had a trailer
for the Spyder attached.
As if a warning of things to come, en route to Salinas, Dean was pulled over by police officers near Bakersfield around 3:30pm for speeding. Two hours later, around 5:30 p.m., they were driving westbound on what is now called State Route 46,
when a 1950 Ford Tutor pulled out in front of them. The driver, twenty-three-year-old Donald Turnupseed,
was traveling east and attempting to make a left turn onto Highway 41. Unfortunately, Turnupseed had
already started to make his turn before he saw the roaring Porsche traveling quickly toward him. Without
time to turn, the two cars smashed nearly head-on.
The injuries among the three involved varied greatly. Turnupseed received only minor injuries. Rolf
Wuetherich, the passenger in the Porsche, was thrown from the vehicle and suffered serious head injuries
and a broken leg, but survived the crash. Dean, however, was killed in the accident. He was only 24-yearsold.
Hard to believe, and a fact often forgotten, East of Eden was the only James Dean film that had been
released before his death. Following his passing, Rebel Without a Cause, the film for which Dean is best
remembered, hit movie screens. Giant was also released after Dean’s death.
James Dean was already somewhat famous for his role in East of Eden but his death and the release of Rebel Without a Cause catapulted
him to cult status. Forever frozen as the talented, misunderstood, rebellious youth, James
Dean remains the symbol of teenage angst.
Many car collectors wonder what happened to the smashed Porsche. After the accident,
the crumpled car toured around the United States as part of a driver safety presentation. En
route between two stops, the car disappeared. In 2005, Volo Auto Museum in Volo, Illinois,
offered $1 million to anyone who currently had the car. So far, the car has not resurfaced.
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
[ 33
bridal bliss
In Medieval times
the engagement
rings of the
masses were plain
bands much like
E
many wedding
the history of
ngagement Rings
Today most engagement rings symbolize a couple’s commitment to each other and their dedication to their future life together, but the tradition has not always been a promise of love. Initially
they were given as a sign of ownership — often as part of a woman’s dowry — and demonstrated the wealth and influence attributed to the woman’s fiancé. The pre-marital giving and receiving of
rings is a relatively recent trend, but one which has become popular
amongst many cultures and is now the fashion worldwide.
It was the Ancient Grecians who first exchanged betrothal
rings to signify romantic attachment, but some believe the tradition originated in Ancient Egypt where knots of hair and leather
were woven into circles. Later examples of Ancient Egyptian rings
became much more intricate, but were still limited in design and
metal rings were reserved for wealthier couples. Tombs in Egypt
have been uncovered which depict engagement bands set with
gemstones, but even they would have been relatively crudely made
because the technology was then not advanced enough to create a
smooth metal band.
rings are today.
Others consider Turkish puzzle rings to be the dawn of the
practice, though like many Roman betrothal rings they were not
symbols of a loving bond, but were considered more important
for counteracting infidelity and illustrating ownership. When more
ornate Roman rings were presented, it was as a sign that the woman’s fiancé trusted her with access to his wealth and possessions,
and as a sign of her hierarchical status within his social circle.
Engagement was latterly deemed a legal promise, sealed not with a
kiss but with a precious ring, which protected her from having her
position usurped by a mistress or rival.
In Colonial America thimbles, gloves and other gifts were given
in place of jewelry to symbolize a betrothal. Quakers believed
jewelry to hold no moral value and as such considered it worthless
and meretricious, even for an engagement. Despite this, when
young Puritan women were gifted a thimble by their fiancé to help
them sew garments for their dowry, they would often remove the
bowl and wear the base as a ring once they were married. After
the ceremony the thimble was regarded as having served its useful
purpose, so refashioning it was an acceptable way of continuing to
appreciate the gift.
Michael B Flat Band Trois
semi-mounting in platinum with
diamonds. $17,950
Lazare Kaplan three row Diamond Ring.
$14,085
Steven Kretchmer Designs, platinum
omega ring. $4550
(Diamond sold separately)
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F R E D R I C
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R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
bridal bliss
Precision Set diamond
engagement semi-mounting
$7100
In 860 AD Pope Nicholas I decreed that gold rings should be
used for marriage and engagement, because they validated the
financial commitment being made by the man to the woman. This
doctrine was echoed again by Pope Innocent III in the 12th century, but these metals did not become attainable for the masses until
much later. In the 14th and 15th centuries the upper classes occasionally had gold or silver bands set with semi-precious gemstones,
and the lower classes still swapped simple copper or iron rings.
Platinum has only been fashioned into jewelry throughout the
last two-hundred years, and though its exclusivity has always been
highly valued, it is still not an affordable setting for many couples.
During World War II platinum was prohibited for use in jewelry
in the United States — even in engagement rings — due to its
necessity for manufacturing munitions. During that period white
gold was created to simulate the crisp elegance of platinum, and
remains a popular choice for brides-to-be looking for hard-wearing,
contemporary engagement rings.
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F R E D R I C
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R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
The type of expensive gemstone ring we think of as an engagement ring now was initially reserved solely for the upper classes.
Indeed, the first known example of an exclusive gem-set engagement ring was presented by royalty at the imperial court of Vienna.
It was there in 1477 that Mary of Burgundy received a diamond
betrothal ring from Archduke Maximilian of Austria. It was not
until the 1800s that engagement rings became more common
amongst less affluent couples, and even then was not until the
20th century that diamond rings became the accepted standard to
accompany a proposal in Western culture. It was then that deposits
of diamond rough (the crystalline material faceted diamonds are
cut from) were discovered in African mines, leading diamonds
to have a greater and more affordable presence on the gemstone
market. This availability led jewelers to create more intricate and
diverse designs in which to set their diamonds, which in turn
increased their demand and appeal in engagement jewelry.
Throughout history engagement rings have announced the
union between young lovers. Today as much as ever they serve as a
declaration of the love, fidelity and enduring passion between two
people who hope to spend their lives honoring that bond.
b y
D E B O R A H
Y O N I C K
Diamond and 18k white gold ring by Jack Kelege. $5600
Diamond and 18k white gold earrings by Jack Kelege. $6950
Nicole Kidman
at 2013 Golden
Globes. Photo
Credit HFPA
(Hollywood Foreign
Press Association)
HOLLYWOOD’S
Roberto Coin floral
earrings
U
Roberto Coin floral
bracelet
reach
Unless you’ve been living under a rock (instead of wearing one), you know that glamor is back in
a big way in accessorizing, inspired by early 20th century period films like The Great Gatsby, Anna
Karenina and Downton Abbey.
Think layers of pearls, diamond cluster earrings, big pearl drops and multi-strand diamond necklaces with flower patterns; sautoirs, long chains, pins, beads, bows, and buckles; fringes, sequins, feathers,
geometric patterns, black and white color blocks, and hair accessories.
38
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F R E D R I C
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R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
For jewelers, the Art Deco period is easy to
revisit because of the simplicity and cleanness of
Roberto Coin
black sapphire
and diamond
necklace.
$23,000
the design. But it’s not just the early 20th century, it’s the century as a whole that Hollywood is
inspiring interest in, says Michael O’Connor, jewelry
stylist and host of Reelz Channel’s MovieStyle with
Michael O’Connor. “It’s a century in retrospect as to
what’s trending, capturing eras when people wore jewelry for statement purposes and to complete an outfit.”
If you’re tracking fashion media, you know there is
a growing love affair with matched jewelry sets in photo
layouts — the perfect accessories to ladylike styles inspired by
the ’50s and ’60s according to image consultant Cynthia Sliwa,
co-author of Jewelry Savvy: The Ultimate Guide to the Selection,
Care & Creative Recycling of Jewelry. “It’s a high-end way to dress.”
A segment of viewers, O’Connor says, pine for the Twilight series and
TV shows like Once Upon a Time, fueling interest for fantasy inspired jewelry,
dark, amulet styles with gem cabochons, diamond slices and blackened metals.
Taylor Swift at 2013 Golden Globes. Photo Courtesy of PGI
(Platinum Guild International)
40
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F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
Roberto Coin black sapphire
and diamond cuff bracelet.
$19,200
Jennifer
Hudson at the
2013 Academy
Awards.
Photo Credit:
Academy
of Motion
Picture Arts
and Sciences
(AMPAS)
Naomi Watts at
2013 Golden
Globes. Photo
Credit HFPA
(Hollywood
Foreign Press
Association)
Penny Preville 36” eye glass
chain 18k white gold. $4480
Lace Signature station chain
by Penny Preville. $5995
Penny Preville Curly Lace
enhancer in 18k rose and
white gold. $6595
Retro trends translate on the red carpet as well. Great
any gem or pearl on a long chain, and can be worn down the
examples from this year’s Golden Globes and Oscars includ-
front or back and layered. Another trend topper is the tassel,
ing Taylor Swift in blackened platinum ruby and diamond
as it works in diamonds, gems and pearls, and looks perfect in
earrings; Nicole Kidman in an emerald and blue enamel and
earrings or dangling from a long chain.
diamond ring and Naomi Watts in blackened lavender jade,
The most important takeaway when deciding what to wear
ruby and diamond earrings.
for any occasion, O’Connor says, is that you pick designs you
O’Connor also hails the return of the necklace to the red
feel good in, because when you do, you project confidence —
carpet, many of them in blackened metal, an antique look. He
the key to true red carpet style!
advocates diamonds-by-the-yard, a must-have that works with
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
[ 41
sports therapy
b y
J A N E T
G R O E N E
Fit to be Teed
With golf more popular than ever, massage therapists are seeing an increasing
number of hackers, many of them unnecessarily in pain. Fortunately for serious
players, golf massage is offered on more and
more spa menus. Even more specialized are
targeted massages for golfers in the 11-39
age group, the approximately 20 percent
who are women, and those golfers age 50
or over who are likely to have additional
problems such as arthritis.
Massage therapists who see a lot of
golfers know there are subtle differences
between golf massage and a general sports
massage. How can you make sure your
therapist (1) prepares you for play, (2) puts
tired muscles in repose after the golf game,
and (3) maintains your muscles for powerful, pain-free golf games in the future?
Iris Casteen, lead therapist at Stillwater
Spa in the Hyatt Regency Coconut Point at
Bonita Springs in Southwest Florida observes
that “golfers tend to gravitate to us once
they’ve had a bad game.” Her challenge is to
get golfers into massage therapy before their
first play at the resort’s famous Raptor Bay
course, educate them about their bodies, and
then keep them on the right path. Because
most of her clients are on vacation, they may
not have played golf for some time, or may
not have done proper warm-up and stretching before the game.
42
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F R E D R I C
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R U B E L
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Certified in Reflexology, Acupressure,
Aroma-Reflex, Shiatsu, and Watsu, Iris
takes a strong Asian path in her therapy. Her focus is on the mind, body,
spirit connection. “I start golfers with a
relaxation massage, perhaps with assisted
yoga, after the flight and before their first
round. Communication is so important,”
she explains, “Not just in learning how
the client feels physically, but about their
expectations from a therapist. As I work,
we talk. Often a client doesn’t know that,
for example, a tingling in the sciatic area
has been caused by a golf posture.”
Casteen gives her clients total attention,
not just as golfers, but as part of the total
resort experience. On their first visit to
Stillwater Spa, she explains the ritual of spa
and the importance of steam, sauna, and
the Swiss shower, followed by massage to
balance the energy system. She blends the
long-repetitive strokes of European massage
with Tuina (Chinese push-pull massage)
and Thai massage (assisted stretching).
She also suggests aromatherapy. For
golfers, she uses lavender, chamomile, magnolia, rose hip, or geranium. Often she
devises a custom scent blend and she may
also add music to the session. Her goal is
to summon all senses to put the client in a
state of total relaxation. With golfers, she
usually has to deal with lower back issues,
and she often finds shoulders “screaming for
relaxation.”
At this point, she uses therapeutic
massage, a blend of East and West, hot
and cold, with accent on cold. It’s helpful,
she finds, to use Shiatsu, with focus on
the gluteus area, and she also uses trigger
point release. She finds neuro-muscular
release good for the lower back. While a
50-minute session is helpful, she prefers 80
minutes, especially for a golfer’s first session
with her.
When asked how she works with older
golfers, Iris emphasizes the totality of massage for the game as well as other problems, such as arthritis or bursitis. She
also works with younger golfers, who can
choose from Stillwater Spa’s teen massage
menu. Casteen finds younger players more
resilient but also less experienced with
crisis areas. They need more instruction in
knowing the connection between their golf
game and their bodies, she observes.
“Lastly, it all begins and ends with the
feet so I recommend Reflexology for everyone including golfers.,” says Casteen.
sports therapy
Fit to be Teed
Golf’s Top 10 Stress Points
According to John R. McCarroll,
M.D., board-certified orthopedic surgeon
and member of the American College of
Sports Medicine, the injuries most frequently suffered by amateur golfers, from
greatest to least frequent are:
Ariel Quinones is a licensed massage therapist at The Spa at the Omni Orlando Resort
at ChampionsGate in Florida, where there
are two, 18-hole, championship golf courses.
World headquarters of the David Leadbetter
Golf Academy, the resort is frequent host to
some of the top names in professional golf
and it’s also popular for golf-oriented business
conferences. Quinones’ clients are likely to be
expert and frequent players, many of them
with a support system that includes instructors, coaches, and personal trainers.
“It’s essential that we see the golfer before
inflammation occurs. At that point,” he says,
“There’s little we can do except to work
groups of muscles in areas other than the
inflamed site. The human body was created to
heal itself in many ways, so we try to educate
athletes to listen to their bodies. They can
come to me for maintenance but they must
be responsible for preparation. With proper
warm-up and stretching followed by massage
to prepare muscles, tendons, and ligaments, I
can bring a golfer up to 100 percent performance from a pre-massage potential of only
60-70 percent.”
At The Spa at the Omni, the women’s
area has a Jacuzzi and wet sauna and, in the
men’s spa, steam and dry sauna. Quinones
urges clients to start with these, then he
begins with contract-relax steps to increase
circulation. His golf massage differs from his
sports massage, in that he goes directly to the
deltoids, the four rotator cuff muscles, calf
muscles, gluteus medius and maximus, and
the lattissimus dorsi. He, too, recommends
80-minute session rather than the more popular 50-minute massage.
As he works he tries to educate clients
about their anatomy and physiology and
how it all relates to their golf game. He
advises them in warm-up and stretching,
followed by a massage and adequate hydration before and during the game. Then he
advises re-hydration, sauna, and massage after
the game to bring muscles back into balance.
LMT Jane Frances is with the athletic club
at the AAA 4-Diamond Peabody Orlando.
The hotel doesn’t have a golf course but, as
host hotel for the annual PGA Golf Expo, it
accommodates many serious players, including local golfers who belong to the Peabody
Athletic Club.
She urges golfers to come to her pre-game
for a massage that prepares the lower back,
shoulders, hips, legs, and elbows for the
stresses of the game. “The lumbar region is
the fulcrum of the coil that goes with the golf
swing,” Frances explains. If they don’t stretch
properly or are tightened up from a long flight
to Orlando they are already hurting when she
first sees them.
“I use warmth and cold, deep tissue massage, and I like stone compression therapy to
sink heat deep into the muscles,” she enthuses. Frances also focuses on circulation in knees
and hamstrings. She finds positional release
good for elbows.
While she works, she talks about the
importance of a thorough warm-up and
stretching. A lot depends on how often a golfer plays, Ms. Frances finds. A frequent player
is more in tune than the monthly player. In
any case, she starts with a sports massage to
loosen up restricted muscles and urges golfers
to get a massage after the game.
Ms. Frances, a Reiki master and licensed
facial specialist, recommends that golfers have
a one-hour aloe facial mask for deep hydration, and she also incorporates Reflexology
into a golf massage. “We are like chefs,” she
smiles, “We throw everything into the pot that
will address the client’s concerns. We listen
with our ears and our hands.”
1) Lower back
2)Wrist
3)Elbow
4)Shoulder
5)Knee
6)Neck
7)Hip
8)Ribs
9)Ankle
10) Foot
The most common causes of injuries in
amateur golfers, says Dr. McCarroll, are:
• Too much play or practice
• Poor swing mechanics
• Hitting the ground
•Overswing
• Poor warm-up
• Twist during swing
• Grip or swing change
•Fall
• Bending over putt
• Cart-caused injury
• Hit by a ball
Janet Groene is an award-winning writer, columnist and
author of more than 25 books, including the Open Road
Travel Guides’ Caribbean edition.
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designer spotlight
b y
D Y L A N
L A N D I S
An intersection of timeless + trend
For Eileen, timelessness is the embodiment
of simplicity. Over the past twenty-nine years,
the collection has been built on this conviction.
In 1984, she began with four easy and elemental
pieces and a concept of getting dressed. Where,
then, does trend fit in?
One of Eileen’s first designs, which appeared
so clearly in her mind, was the box-top, a
square-cut, free-flowing style. “Draw a box,”
instructs Rebecca Perrin, one of three members
on Eileen’s Core Concept Team. “Extend the top
line — those are the arms. Make a little cutout
in front for a neck. And that’s it. The simplicity
is very graphic, and it’s extremely beautiful as a
shape.”
The box-top hasn’t left the line since that
first year. Both timeless and timely, it’s highly
adaptable to whatever aesthetic excitement may
be in the air.
E
I
L
E
E
N
F
timelessness is the embodiment
of simplicity
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I
S
H
E
R
Among its dozens of permutations, the
enduring box-top has been cropped, dropped
to dress-length, dolman-sleeved, graced with
pockets, given a little stretch, striped, asymmetrically hemmed, back-pleated, embellished
with tiny crystals, bateau-necked, V-necked,
funnel-necked, and cowled. It’s been sliced down
the front to become a jacket, and made into a
tunic. It’s been fashioned from alpaca, velvet,
lace, and linen.
And therein lies a tension — between timeless and trendy — that the company increasingly
embraces.
At the heart of
Eileen Fisher’s reach
for timelessness —
ageless,
dateless,
perennial — lies The
System, created by
Eileen as both a principle and the crux of
a wardrobe.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF EILEEN FISHER
men’s fashion
designer spotlight
past seasons. It’s never out with the old and in with the new: it’s
layered.”
Timelessness is reinterpreted as each team steps into the
design process. The company’s archives are a rich source of inspiration for the design team.
“A designer’s role is to challenge, to come
up with new things,” says Helen Oji. “But
a lot of times I reference an earlier style,
because I know that it works — it has a classic simplicity.” A shape from the past might reappear in a
new fabric and color, perhaps slightly slimmed from the company’s early one-size-fits-all days.
Even before a garment is conceived, color designer Chris
Costan thinks about a spectrum, balancing what feels fresh and
modern with palettes that came before. “If the design is simple
enough, the color may reflect a trend, but the style will remain
relevant,” says Chris.
The fabric team looks for materials that will endure, that are
sustainable, that will befriend those the company uses nearly
every season—and that the hand and eye cannot resist. “There’s
some way in which materials speak,” says Candice. “They have
As a principle, it’s her personal commitment to making it
easy for a woman to get dressed. As a core group of garments,
The System is abiding. It does not hew to fast-paced fashion.
It does not come in colors, only neutrals. It is a foundation of
shapes at their purest: tops, skirts, pants that become building
blocks for outfit after outfit.
“The System is the key that unlocks everything else,” says
Candice Reffe, also on the Core Concept Team. A woman who
slips into pieces from The System can then layer on other elements of the collection.
“We build on our fabrics,” says Eileen.
“We even use colors, especially our neutral
colors, over and over again, so people can
really create wardrobes that work over the
years.” That’s why Rebecca can still wear her beloved ten
year-old Stretch Silk Jersey top with the slightly belled sleeve
with pieces made today.
The line as a whole shifts gradually. “We don’t have a com-
pletely different concept every season,” says Kira Denison-Cole,
the third member of the Core Concept team. “We’re slower-moving than that. We probably move faster now in terms of
trends than we ever have, but it has to be rooted in the classic
way that we got dressed in 1984. We thread things through from
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PHOTO COURTESY OF PAUL BETENLY
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their own voice. And we’re trying to listen for the
fabric that feels like it’s part of a song we’re already
singing, or part of a new harmony.”
When a new collection launches, key teams
spend two intensive days test-driving the clothes.
They think carefully about how the clothes work
together, as well as how each piece works. Fit matters because a woman only keeps a piece of clothing
that fits and makes her feel the way she wants to
look.
“What’s timeless
about our clothes
is how they feel
on,” says Rebecca.
“They’re always
functional.
You
can move in them.
You’re so much
more able to be in
the moment, be
with
whomever
you’re talking to,
or do what you’re
doing.”
Yet spring, with its sense of alchemy (a metallic
skirt, tees that shimmer) and of-the-moment harem
pants, may seem, at first, to rattle the definition of
timelessness.
Consider, however, that it took three years of
deliberation before the harem pants were admitted
to the collection. It changed when Eileen wore them.
Lean and architectural, they’re a variation on a form
that’s been in the collection since 1984 — the maxi
skirt, the wide-leg pant. Simplicity with an edge
might be one way to put it.
“Our customer doesn’t need change for the sake
of change,” says Laura Mikell, who works on bringing value to the line and has been with Eileen Fisher
for twenty-one years. “She needs change to delight
her. If we take a trend but filter it for us and our
customer, we’re really taking it down to its essence
— and then, in a way, it’s not so trendy.”
Candice describes the balance this way: “It’s an
argument we’re constantly having with ourselves.
We’re asking, ‘What feels true to who we are?’”
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color focus
b y
fall
fashion
colors
D E B O R A H
The bold
colors of the
runway can
be beautifully
interpreted
using
gemstones
B
Bold, refreshing color continues to rock fashion runways for fall, from New York
to London, Paris to Milan. Among the standout design directions are: romantic
textiles, novelty fabrics, inky paisley prints and brocades; over-sized
and structured designs; nature, including its opulence and its dark
side; early 20th century art movements like Dada and Bauhaus;
’60s mod and ’90s grunge.
Jewelry on the runways is embracing statement neckwear in
collars from futuristic and edgy to romantic and ornate. There
were long necklaces with dangling tassels and talismans, and
colossal cuffs and chain bracelets. Earrings were chandelier-style
Rutilated quartz over black onyx in 18k rose
gold and diamonds by Roberto Coin. $4900
Prasiolite and diamond cocktail ring in 18k
rose gold by Roberto Coin. $6840
Amethyst square cocktail ring in 18k rose
gold and diamonds. $6600
using chains, crystals or beads, as well as hoops and crosses. Key design
directions celebrate retakes on timeless links, sinewy swirls, iconic knot patterns,
gladiator-style weaves and florets — always a favorite motif.
Models walks the runway at the Ruffian Fall 2013 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2013 at Lincoln Center in New York City. (Photo by Peter
Michael Dills/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week)
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Green is significant in this year’s palette, with the top 10 by the Pantone Color Institute
including three shades. Emerald, Pantone’s Color of the Year for 2013, is a powerful, universally appealing tone. Emerald tops the list of gems that complement this trend, but other green
gem options include demantoid and tsavorite garnets, chrome diopside, tourmaline and jade.
“Green is the most abundant hue in nature. The human eye sees more green than any
Also popular is deep lichen green, somewhere between army
green and khaki, with gray undertone. Perfect gems to help add
a pop of this color to your wardrobe include green sapphire,
tourmaline, agate, quartz and moonstone. Linden green, which is
lighter, can be conveyed with peridot, chrysoberyl, chrysoprase,
quartz or agate.
other color in the spectrum,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color
Institute, global authority on color. “The prevalence of green has been steadily rising for several seasons, especially in the fashion and couture markets and on the red carpet.”
Green gems are mixed with other colors from the season’s fashion spectrum including dark
blues, spirited reds, and dazzling pinks and oranges. Among the gems in these rich hues are
diamond, sapphire, tourmaline, garnet, spinel, zircon, and quartz.
“The fall palette creates moods from sophisticated and structured to lively and vivid, encapsulating our inherent need for wardrobe variety,” says Eiseman. “Designers are embracing unconventional color combinations that encourage the ‘I never thought of doing that before’ reaction.”
Shanghai necklace by Roberto Coin.
Shanghai
three row
bracelet by
Roberto Coin.
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Gem-intense brands like Vianna adopt exciting color combinations inspired
by its native Brazil using gems such as London blue topaz, amethyst, citrine
and prasiolite in yellow gold; pink tourmalines, rhodolites, morganite and diamonds in rose gold; or whiskey citrine, olive quartz, prasiolite, and diamonds in
yellow gold.
“From the runways to the walkways, designers and stylists are taking a bolder approach to fashion,” says Filecellia Sampson, client and public relations for
Goshwara. “More color, mixed fabrics and vibrant prints are transitioning into
fall. Jewelry designers have beautifully translated this into their collections.
The jewelry community is revolutionizing. Colorful jewelry is playing a major
role in some of the season’s best looks.”
London blue topaz is a favorite color, and brands like Jude Frances Jewelry
use it in a big way. “We’ve noticed that people love the blues, since they often
can be worn as neutrals,” says Emily Cohen, director of marketing and public
relations. She notes that the brand’s spring collection rocked green amethyst
with sky blue topaz, a bestseller. “For fall, we also have champagne citrine,
which is another neutral stone that can be worn all year round. One thing
we’re doing a lot of this fall is black and gold. We’re mixing pavé black spinel
with our brushed gold finish. It’s very edgy and cool.”
There is an enormous diversity of materials being
used by designers, including leather, wood, straw,
ceramic and titanium, in addition to gold, silver and
diamonds. Forecasters see a creative shift happening
in new forms of jewels and ways of wearing them
— like hair and body ornaments, eyewear, belts,
handbags, and electronics — making the things
we surround ourselves with everyday seem more
precious.
Labradorite and 18k white
gold long station necklace
by Penny Preville.
Roberto Coin Spring
collection ring in lemon
citrine. $4520
Roberto Coin Spring collection
earrings in lemon citrine. $7560
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men’s
b y
wedding fashion
H E D D A
S C H U P A K
GOOD GROOMING:
men’
s
wedding rings
trends in
A man’s statement of commitment and style
with
With so much of the wedding preparations focused on the bride — her
engagement ring, her dress, her hair, her flowers, her attendants — it’s
easy for the groom to feel like his wedding ring is an afterthought. And
historically, it was. A plain gold band did the trick and everyone could
get back to focusing on the bride and the event.
But today, grooms often will don a ring even before the wedding.
Severine Ferrari, editor-in-chief of Engagement 101, says “man-gagement rings” are one of the next big trends in fine jewelry. Once the
decision is made, the man is as anxious to show his changed status as
his bride-to-be, and the groom’s ring is an equally important symbol of
the commitment the couple are making to each other. Today’s typical
grooms (average age at first marriage: 29) grew up far more fashion-conscious than their fathers and grandfathers. To them, a wedding
ring is more than a symbol that they’re married; it’s also an outward
statement of their personal style.
• Ergonomic design is making today’s rings both more comfortable
and less prone to damage. Interiors may be curved for comfort, or the
shape of the band may indicate a top and bottom. The human finger
isn’t perfectly round, so by having a “right side up” way to wear the
ring, it’s likely to suffer less damage.
• Today’s more casual lifestyles and workplace dress call for a
modern, matte finish that is far more suited to current fashion than
traditional high-polish gold rings. A flat band can also look more hip
and on-trend than a traditional domed band, depending on the design
of the band.
• Modern grooms appreciate the steely white quality of platinum
in a subdued matte finish, while palladium (a platinum group metal)
offers that precious white option for lower cost. Those who prefer
traditional yellow gold are still likely to choose it with a matte finish
as well. Or skip the traditional look entirely: more men are choosing
dark, even black, bands, whether oxidized precious metal or dark contemporary metals like titanium and tungsten.
• Diamonds used to be rare in men’s wedding rings.
No more. According to The Knot, after watches,
diamond wedding bands are one of the leading
categories in men’s jewelry. The best-selling
styles are both subtle and wearable; it’s
about small accents, not bling. Stones are
usually set flush with the surface of the
ring and often as not are black, champagne,
or cognac diamonds rather than traditional
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Christian Bauer wedding
bands in platinum, gold,
or palladium.
white. Rough diamonds — those that are set into jewelry in the same
condition they came out of the mine — are au courant, especially
when set into blackened metals.
• Gold and even platinum, durable as they are, can be damaged
by an active lifestyle. As a result, more men are opting for ding-proof
wedding bands in contemporary metals like cobalt, titanium and tungsten. Of these newer choices, titanium’s lightweight feel — almost like
you aren’t wearing a ring — is the most popular, but all of these metals
are highly durable and excellent choices for men who work with their
hands and still want to wear a wedding ring every day. And their space
age, science-hall origins appeal to his inner nerd, too.
• Make mine a double! Some couples may still regard a wedding ring
as too sacred a symbol to make from non-precious metal. Fortunately,
there’s an easy answer: have two! The precious gold or platinum ring
your bride places on your finger during the ceremony is what you wear
when you dress to go out together; the modern metal is what you wear
when you go off to work or play ball. It still shows your commitment,
but without the worry that you’re going to dent it, scratch it or lose it.
• Other recent trends in men’s wedding rings include a Celtic knot
motif or inlays of exotic wood or two-tone metal. Some couples like
the symbolism of a his-and-hers matching set, with a masculine interpretation of the bride’s wedding ring, while other couples cringe at
anything too matchy-matchy. In either case, custom is key: couples
love a ring that’s uniquely their own, either designed by them or for
them alone by their jeweler.
Wedding bands by
Steven Kretchmer
Designs in palladium
with diamonds.
Visit us on facebook:
Christian Bauer USA
Waves band by David
Yurman.
b y
J E F F
P R I N E
Waves signet ring with agate
inlay by Davd Yurman.
David Yurman Waves bracelet with
honed onyx and silver beads .
David Yurman Royal
cord cuff links with
black diamonds.
Black onyx and black
diamond signet rings by
David Yurman.
cuff links
to karma beads
In
Modern or traditional, men’s jewelry is more important than ever.
In recent years, there’s been much talk about how men acces-
For instance, for the 12 months ended in May, NPD found that
sorize themselves. Traditional men’s accessories, such as ties and
suit sales were up nearly 20%. Even more interesting, sales of suit
cufflinks, disappeared for awhile when men opened their collars,
separates were up an astounding 27.3%, far outpacing other types
rolled up their sleeves and experimented with edgy rocker styles,
of men’s apparel. “But while men may be buying more tailored
or even hip-hop influences.
types of clothing again, they aren’t wearing the look head to toe
However men found other accessories. The wrist is no longer
like they did a generation ago,” Cohen says. Instead they’re mixing
the place just for a watch, but maybe a link or even wrap bracelet.
it up, using more casual jewelry and accessories — wearing a pen-
The open collar became the ideal venue to show off a metal collar
dant rather than a tie, or finishing off with a brightly colored pair
necklace. Recently, men have been inspired by Eastern principals,
of socks. Yet they are still donning French cuff shirts and cufflinks
donning Karma bead bracelets.
along with their new bowties.
Lately, traditional Wall Street and Madison Avenue styles have
reemerged for a new generation, due in no small part to the success
of TV dramas such as Mad Men, and Downtown Abbey.
The Great Recession was a big bump in the road, not just for
spending but for propelling new styles, too. There’s an interesting
dichotomy going on in men’s fashions right now,” says Marshal
Cohen, chief industry analyst at The NPD Group, a leading consumer research firm that tracks what consumers are buying (or
intend to buy.) “Young men are dressing up more,” he says.
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Waves Swiss Army knife by David
Yurman.
Leather triple wrap
bracelet by David Yurman.
Armory metal Bracelet by
David Yurman.
David Yurman Chevron
Rubber bracelet in gray.
Waves dog tag by David Yurman.
According to Cohen “There is also a big influence coming from
Europe and Asia, where men have long carried bags. Now even
American men need them because their clothing is constructed to
be tighter to the body and no body wants bulging pockets.” And
as bags and leather goods become more of a status symbol, details
like jewelry also become more important, Cohen says. “As much
as men like to fit in with the boys, they also want to set themselves
apart.” Hence, they look for details like an interesting signet ring,
a pocket square or even a tie bar — another retro detail that has
returned to favor.
Fortunately, there are more varieties of men’s jewelry to accommodate these diverse interests and trends, including the following:
• Smaller often makes a bigger statement, especially when diamonds and precious gems are used.
• Monograms, initials and personal messages on the front (or
reverse) of pendants, bracelets and rings.
“The Millennials may be more
interested in the image their jewelry
and accessories project,” Cohen
notes. “The middle generation —
the Baby Boomers — are more
interested in status and investment.”
• 14k or 18k gold alone or mixed with other metals returns, most
often as rose gold. Finishes may be sandblasted, textured or etched.
• Alternative metals, including stainless steel and titanium, remain
important because of the lightweight and durable qualities. But
look for a resurgence in noble metals, such as silver, gold, palladium and even platinum.
• “Right hand” rings for men: interesting sculptured or textured
rings.
• Wrist Action: bracelets continue to be a look popular no matter
what the clothing: beaded, stretch bracelets, links, leather and
metal bracelets, often worn layered. Wrap bracelets are also key.
• Animal instincts: designs based on dragons, snakes, lions, eagles
and horses.
• Rough riders: one-of-a-kind gems, often in their natural states.
• Cufflinks can be retro serious (think Don Draper) or more
whimsical versions that bring a smile to even the most cantankerous of characters.
David Yurman Black stations bracelet.
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AWine
moreCountry
travel to Italy
b y
I Y N A
in Italy’s
I
If there’s a knock against travel to Italy, at least during prime
wedding season, it’s the crowds of its most popular honeymoon
spots. Tossing a euro in Rome’s Trevi Fountain turns to sport
when you have to muscle past the tour bus throngs. And waiting for a gondola on the Grand Canal in Venice? Think Disney
during school break.
You will not find the crowds in the Piedmont wine region
of northwest Italy known as the Langhe, despite its surprising
accessibility. Set your GPS and you can be in Monte Carlo or
Milan in less than two hours.
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B O R T
C A R U S O
H A N D C R A F T E D 1 8 K A N D P L AT I N U M
W W W. P R E C I S I O N S E T. C O M
MADE IN AMERICA
travel to Italy
The Langhe is castle country; more than a half-dozen are within an
easy drive or vigorous mountain bike ride. Every hairpin turn on a vineyard-covered foothill rewards you with a view of another stone tower,
the Alps in the distance. The skyline hasn’t changed much in centuries.
So why is the Langhe a secret? For one thing, it’s been overlooked by
honeymooners because of its lack of luxury accommodations. The area
is flecked with decent enough hotels, pensions, guest houses, and farm
house lodgings known as agriturismi, but, until recently, no five-star
properties. That changed in 2009 when one of the region’s leading wine
producers, Beni di Batasiolo, built the plush il Boscareto Resort and Spa
smack in the middle of one of its most beautiful vineyards.
Cue the masseuse. Il Boscareto’s bi-level treatment suites and fitness
center include one of the sexiest indoor-outdoor pools north of Tuscany.
Intimate lounge areas line the resort’s perimeter, overlooking the grapes
that will eventually make their way into wine glasses around the world.
Il Boscareto does not have the patina of its ancient surroundings; architecturally it’s a kind of modern interpretation of a Piedmontese castle,
but its roots run deep. It is a resort run by one family whose lineage goes
back centuries. There’s no multinational corporation operating it from a
distant headquarters.
As a destination resort, Il Boscareto tempts you to stay put. But why
when you can daytrip to towns of Roman ruins, Renaissance frescoes,
and little cafés on narrow alleyways that are yours alone. No reservations
required. In her book In Love in Italy, author Monica Larner asserts, “If
you love the wine country, this is paradise.”
il Boscareto Resort
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Amore
About those wines: It is at the heart of understanding the land of Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, Dolcetto, and Moscato. Wine is its
industry and its essence. It even has its own origin myth, albeit a bit tongue in cheek. At the Wine Museum in Barolo (next door to
the Corkscrew Museum), a Garden of Eden tableau portrays Eve tempting Adam with a cluster of grapes. And when the locals aren’t
talking wine, they’re talking truffles — the fungus, not the
chocolate. It’s part of a cultural reverence for the riches that
come from the ground. These earthy objects of desire were
once considered the food of the gods for their aphrodisiac
powers. These days, they’re the food of the One Percenters,
easily fetching $1,000 a pound. They’re sniffed out by well-
trained mutts in nearby woods and famously feted every fall
at the National White Truffle Fair in the town of Alba. The
climax of the fair is the white truffle auction, simulcast by
satellite to deep-pocketed gourmands around the globe. It’s
the closest thing this region gets to a red carpet event. Last
year, an American nabbed the grand prize, a white truffle
weighing in at 2.76 pounds. His winning bid: 98,000 euros.
This is the quiet corner of Italy. For glitz, head west to
Monte Carlo and Cannes. For exquisite mayhem, go south to Rome. But to find out how a glass of Barolo, a plate of truffle risotto, and
a chorus of cicadas can shake you like a thunderclap, stay right here.
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oys ter perpe tual subm a riner date
in 18 k t white gold
rolex
oyster perpetual and submariner are trademarks.