Pretty in Penny - Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers

A
T U F T S
C O M M U N I C A T I O N S
F I N E
J E W E L R Y
M A G A Z I N E
Color, Pattern, and Texture
Kwiat: 100 Years of Diamonds
David Yurman’s World of Beauty
Roberto Coin–Everyday Chic
Rolex Keeps Collectors Happy
Penny Preville’s latest designs combine
the shimmer of opal and diamonds
Pretty in Penny
AUTUMN/HOLIDAY 2014 • ISSUE 3
P U B L I C A T I O N
© D.YURMAN 2014
F
R
E
D
R
I
C
H
.
R
U
B
E
L
M
A
G
A
Z
I
N
E
•
A
U
T
U
M
N
/
H
O
L
I
D
A
Y
E
2
0
1
4
Every great story begins with a spark of inspiration. The spark of inspiration for us at Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers is, without a doubt, you…our
customer. Your stories help drive our passion for the pursuit of perfection to deliver the finest quality merchandise, paired with our knowledgeable
employees who consistently strive to deliver the best customer service. We know the man shopping for an exquisite ring is looking for a symbol to
mark the lifelong story of true love. The wife looking for the gift of a handsome watch may end up picking a piece that becomes a chapter in a special
bond built over generations. The customer shopping for a classic necklace could be choosing a piece that becomes an introduction to the tale of a
cherished time or special place. The words that fill the pages in our history have a common thread — our customers. Our customers write the stories
that we enjoy hearing about, filled with love, happiness and wonderful memories. We’re happy to provide the spark.
Each year we see newness appear everywhere — in the living environment, in optimistic attitudes, in rebounding energy, and in long-awaited
color. We anticipate new opportunities to create, improve, and stretch previous boundaries. We continually do just that: test the limits and push the
boundaries in design, in traveling to new sources for the finest diamonds and the latest designs, and in adding value for you in unique and measurable
ways. Our friendship with you is a demonstration of that commitment to be your first and only choice as your personal jeweler. Please enjoy this
latest issue of Fredric H. Rubel Magazine, with our compliments.
We wish you and yours a healthy, joyous holiday and prosperous new year. We look forward to providing you the same personal attention in 2015
as you’ve come to expect from Fredric H. Rubel year after year. Thank you for making Fredric H. Rubel
Jewelers part of your life.
With gratitude,
The Rubel Family
9 2 4
T H E
S H O P S
2 4 6
A T
F O R E S T
M I S S I O N
A V E N U E
V I E J O
•
•
M I S S I O N
L A G U N A
B E A C H ,
V I E J O ,
C A
•
C A
9 4 9
•
9 4 9
4 9 4
3 6 4
3 5 1 3
3 5 3 5
THE KW I AT C O BBL E S TO N E C O L L E C T I O N
contents
I S S U E
T H R E E
•
F R E D R I C
H.
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
p16
6Welcome
9Rolex Keeps Collectors Happy
12Three Generations
14David Yurman’s World of Beauty
16 Roberto Coin — Everyday Chic
20 BMWi — Electric Cars With Vision
24 Preville — Pretty in Penny
26 The Ultimate Jewelry Professional
28 Shinola — Made in America
30 Sandra Bullock Trivia
34 Aaron Basha — Tantalizing Talismans
36 Wine — More Flavor, Less Money
38 Color, Pattern, Texture
42 Paradise Island
46 Monica Rich Kosann
48 Jack Kelége
50 Fredric H. Rubel Wedding Planner
Todd Tufts • Editor in Chief/Publisher/Creative Director
Carol Besler • Assistant Editorial Director
Larry Stuart • Art Director
Stephen Lewis • Assistant Copy Editor
Vence Vida • Production Manager/Designer
Kyle Boyer • Designer
Ron Saltiel/RSP Media • Select Jewelry Photography
*Prices subject to change. Please contact the store for current pricing and availability.
Fredric H. Rubel Magazine is published by Tufts Communications, 1201 E. 5th Street, Suite 1009 • Anderson, IN 46012
T: 765-608-3081 • E: todd@tuftscom.com • © 2014, Tufts Communications. All rights reserved. Printed in the USA.
designer spotlight
b y
C A R O L
B E S L E R
keeps collectors happy
New colors,
jeweling and a
ceramic breakthrough for Rolex
Every year, amidst a sea of
online predictions and wish-list
postings, watch aficionados and fans
of Rolex eagerly await the brand’s
new introductions. The new models
introduced this year did not disappoint.
The Oyster Perpetual GMT
Master II, with red and blue
Cerachrom bezel
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
[9
The most talked about novelty was the long awaited Oyster Perpetual GMT Master with a
distinctive red and blue bezel (which Rolex lovers call the “Pepsi” because of its coloring). The
GMT Master II captures the color code of the original 1955 version of this iconic model, but
with a Cerachrom bezel for the first time. It is a particular color combination that is extremely
difficult to do in ceramic, not just in terms of achieving a seamless break between red and blue
halves — a major accomplishment in itself — but because this particular shade of red is a challenge, and long considered impossible to create in ceramic. (The bezel of the 1955 version was
Plexiglass). The new GMT Master II also has a revamped movement, the self-winding Caliber
3186, with a blue Parachrom hairspring made of niobium and zirconium, which is ten-times
more precise than a conventional hairspring and highly shock resistant. The 40mm case is white
gold, and the model is not limited.
Rolex also introduced an updated version of the Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller this year. The
model was first launched in 1967 as the Sea-Dweller 2000 (water resistant to 2,000 feet), and
the new one is the Sea-Dweller 4000 (water resistant to 4,000 feet). The only other revision of
this iconic model was in 1978, also rated at 4,000 feet. New is the black Cerachrom bezel with
PVD platinum markers, gold Chromalight hands and markers, blue Parachrom hairspring (in
Caliber 3135) and a bracelet with Glidelock extension system and Oysterlock safety clasp. The
new version, which is steel, retains the look of the ’70s version, including the famous helium
escape valve.
Another innovation is a collection of three new versions of the Sky-Dweller: 18k Everose
gold case and bracelet (with a beautiful “Sundust” dial); 18k white gold on a strap; and 18k
yellow gold on a strap. The Sky-Dweller, with 14 patents, was first launched to acclaim in 2012
Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Sea-Dweller.
and includes a bezel-driven function setting. With Caliber 9001, it has a dual time zone and
annual calendar, with months uniquely displayed through apertures on the periphery of the dial.
A new series of Oyster Perpetual models in 31mm and 36mm sizes previewed exclusive new
dials in sporty colors, including Azzurro Blue, Red Grape, White Grape (a gold tone), Steel and
White Lacquer with blue Roman numerals. The watches contain the Caliber 3130 self-winding
movement, with Parachrom hairspring.
The three new versions of
the Rolex Sky-Dweller.
10
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
Female collectors are thrilled to see the new
Oyster Perpetual Datejust Pearlmaster 34
collection this year, a series of three 34mm
models that are gem-set, each with options
that include diamonds on the bracelets
as well as the cases.
Two of the watches are set with diamonds in combination with either blue or
pink sapphires in two different shades — with the gems adjacent to the hour
markers contrasted in a slightly darker hue.
The Oyster Perpetual Milgauss is another favorite of collectors. An anti-magnetic timepiece designed for engineers and scientists in the 1950s, it was
reintroduced in 2007 with a unique green sapphire crystal, a first in watchmaking. This year’s version features an electric blue dial which, under the green
crystal, takes on a powerful magnetic hue. This is perhaps the most unique
color combination of any other Rolex watch, and is sought after by both men
and women, and by both aficionados and newcomers to the brand alike.
A new series of Oyster
Perpetual models
previewed exclusive new
dials in sporty colors
A new series of
Oyster Perpetual
models previewed
exclusive new dials
in sporty colors
The Oyster Perpetual
Milgauss features a
new electric blue dial
The Oyster
Perpetual Datejust
Pearlmaster with
diamonds
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
[ 11
family buisiness
b y
C A R O L
B E S L E R
Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers
A family business for three generations
F
Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers is proof that some of our best ideas come
Gemological Institute of America, via correspondence. He was a big be-
to us while we’re on vacation. The Family business was established in
liever in education and becoming the jewelry professional in the town. He
October 1928 by Barney and Rose Rubel in San Bernardino California.
was instrumental in transforming the store from a credit operation into a
Newly married, they were on their way to their honeymoon in Big Bear
fine jewelry store. Along the way, he changed the name of the business to
Lake and stopped for the night in San Bernardino before taking what was
Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers, and started carrying very fine jewelry and watch
then a one day trip from there up to the mountain resort. While in San
lines. The store stands as the oldest independent Rolex jeweler in Southern
Bernardino, they noticed some newly built storefronts and decided to
California. Today, Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers has two stores, one located in
contact a relative for financial support and start a jewelry business. The
Laguna Beach and Mission Viejo, California.
name of the business was Crescent Jewelry Company.
12
Fredric’s sons, David and Gary, followed in their father’s footsteps,
Their son, Fredric, joined the family business shortly after graduating
starting in the business in 1981. “The first thing my dad did was send us
from UC Berkeley in June 1956. Barney had suffered a stroke in 1955,
to the GIA to earn Graduate Gemology degrees,” says David. “We are
and Fred came home to help Rose run the business. Fredric’s temporary
also very proud of our affiliation with the American Gem Society. My
plan to come home and help his mom run the family business lasted for
father, brother and I were recently honored at the AGS conclave in San
sixty years! One of the first things Fredric did when he began his career
Diego for being 30-year AGS title holders with the highest credentials
in the jewelry business was to begin taking courses in gemology with the
they offer: Certified Gemologist Appraiser. I believe there is only a hand-
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
ful of 30-year CGAs in the country, and we have three in our family!”
located in one of the most spectacularly beautiful places on earth, Laguna
There were more honors this year. The Jewelers 24 Karat Club of
Beach. This community of approximately 25,000 residences is very car-
Southern California honored Fredric at its recent Annual Dinner Dance
ing and extremely charitable. “My brother Gary and I have lived in the
with the prestigious Excellence in Service Award. This award is in rec-
community for almost 25 years,” says David Rubel. “We have raised our
ognition of Fredric’s “leadership, integrity, dedication and outstanding
children here, and participated in school, sports and community events
contribution to the jewelry industry.” The Jewelers 24 Karat Club of
from the beginning. We have supported many causes personally and
Southern California was formed in 1944 with the main goal of promoting
through our business. We are especially proud of our association with
ethical practices and furthering the honor and traditions of the jewelry
Laguna Beach Schools and SchoolPower. We have donated over $80,000
industry. The Excellence in Service Award is their highest honor.
to the Laguna Beach Schools endowment, SchoolPower, and were hon-
The Rubels are also tremendously proud of their product mix, spend-
ored last year for our giving.”
ing a considerable amount of time and effort choosing jewelry and time-
Whether a customer is looking for a unique, one-of-a-kind piece of
pieces that are beautifully designed and crafted using the highest quality
jewelry or something classic, they are sure to find it among the treasures
gemstones and precious metals. The store carries some of the most recog-
at Fredric H. Rubel Jewelers. “To me, the most important thing about a
The Rubels also work hard to distinguish themselves in their community by providing unparalleled
customer service. “I believe what really makes us stand out from other jewelry retailers is our
attention to the customer,” says David. “We really try to give the client a great customer experience;
we don’t try to just sell them something and move on to the next person. We have many customers
that we have built very strong relationships with, who trust us to help them find a beautiful piece of
jewelry or a watch to give to a loved one for a very special occasion or for a self purchase.”
nizable brands in the industry from some of the most prestigious and
piece of jewelry is that it should be beautiful,” says David. “The elements
renowned companies in the world, including David Yurman, Roberto
that I believe make a piece beautiful are important: using only the finest
Coin, Bez Ambar, Aaron Basha, Jack Kelege, Penny Preville and Ide-
materials, great design and, most importantly, craftsmanship. I feel that
al Diamonds by Lazare Diamonds. Watch brands include Rolex, David
selling something precious and rare that can possibly last for generations
Yurman and Shinola.
and which marks a special occasion or a special moment in someone’s life
“The signature characteristic of all the products we carry in our stores
is quality,” says David. “We really enjoy selling timeless classic jewelry of
puts me in a pretty enviable position. I get to share in someone’s special
moment, and that’s pretty cool.”
the highest quality and design. Many times clients come into our store
looking for something ‘unique,’ but quite often end up choosing something very timeless and classic. I think most people want something they
can enjoy for years to come, not something trendy that will be put in a
dresser drawer after a few years.”
The Rubels also work hard to distinguish themselves in their community
by providing unparalleled customer service. “I believe what really makes
us stand out from other jewelry retailers is our attention to the customer,”
says David. “We really try to give the client a great customer experience;
we don’t try to just sell them something and move on to the next person.
We have many customers that we have built very strong relationships with,
who trust us to help them find a beautiful piece of jewelry or a watch to
give to a loved one for a very special occasion or for a self purchase.”
The Rubels feel extremely blessed to reside and have their business
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
[ 13
designer spotlight
b y
DAVID YURMAN’S
C A R O L
B E S L E R
World of
Beauty
David Yurman’s background as a sculptor and his appreciation for the enduring motifs in everyday life are evident in his collections for this fall.
An avid equestrian, Yurman has long been inspired by the classic devices of
the equestrian world — stirrups, bits, halters and other equipment used in tack.
The Cable Buckle collection is an evolution of the designer’s original Thoroughbred collection. The buckle, which takes its cue from that found on a horse’s
bit, is paired with a curb link chain in some pieces, and with the designer’s
iconic cable motif in others. The designs are rendered in sterling silver with 14k
yellow gold highlights. Some are set with diamonds.
The new pieces from this season’s Confetti collection are a reinterpreta-
tion of David Yurman’s original design. The stacked rows of metal set with
cushion-shaped gemstones capture the effect of light and color dancing on a
grid. In fact, the original working title of the collection was “spots and dots,” a
Confetti Wide ring with blue topaz and
Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.
reference to reflected points of light. The new pieces are a refinement of this
concept, evoking a relaxed geometry with an organic, delicate balance. Colored
gemstones and diamonds are set in a petite mosaic, adorning cabled metal in a
playful dance.
Since its founding in New York in 1980, David Yurman has become known
as America’s leading fine jewelry and timepiece brand. It features a range of signature gold and silver designs, as well as diamond, pearl, and gemstone jewelry.
Confetti Narrow bracelet with
white diamonds in sterling silver.
Cable Buckle bracelet with white
diamonds in sterling silver.
Confetti Wide bracelet with blue topaz and
Hampton blue topaz in sterling silver.
14
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
The designer’s fall
collections are
inspired by
motifs ranging
from the
equestrian
world to
confetti
designer spotlight
b y
C A R O L
B E S L E R
Everyday
Chic
Gold and diamond
crossover ring. $6,000
Gold and diamond
earrings. $6,000
Pois Moi is Roberto Coin’s new down-to-earth signature
collection for elegant everyday wear
Italian jewelry maestro Roberto Coin
is well known for his whimsical, creative pieces, many of which have graced the red carpet and the covers of
high fashion magazines. His genius has produced everything from bracelets in the
form of fire breathing dragons to a diamond-studded ring sculpted to resemble the
head of a roaring tiger whose tongue is set with pink sapphires. Although these
quirky showstoppers often steal the spotlight, Roberto Coin has also demonstrated
a deep understanding of the need for well-designed, well-crafted everyday gold jewelry — not every occasion calls for a roaring diamond tiger. Coin’s day wear tends
toward the classic — it is wearable, modern, yet occasionally with
traditional or vintage design codes, and always made according to the
same principles of craftsmanship as the finest piece of high jewelry.
His latest signature collection is the Pois Moi, which is distinctive
both for its shape and finish. The shape of most of the earrings, rings,
bangles, pendants and cuff links in the collection was inspired by the
rounded-off square television monitors of the 1950s. Coin’s modern
take on this retro shape is both refined and avant-garde, and the collection has become an instant classic.
The collection’s other signature design code is its pattern of slight
indentations or perforations in the gold. This grid of round indentations adds texture and creates subtle light return, an interesting take
on the surface finish of gold. “Even if the design appears extremely
linear and simple, the manufacturing technique is very complicated
and requires the highest precision,” says the designer.
Gold and pave diamond
bracelet. $13,000
Pave diamond earrings. $8,500
16
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
Gold and pave
diamond ring.
$4500
BL ACK JADE COLLECTION
designer spotlight
Smokey quartz diamond
earrings in rose gold.
$5900
“After the huge success of the Appassionata collection, I was looking for something with an innovative design that could become a signature style in the same
way,” says Coin. “The design is ultra-modern, with a touch of vintage, so it perfectly
fits a woman of any age.
“The pattern comes from mixing different ideas,” he says, “including the texturing
of the gold and the ‘pois’ (polka dot) trend seen at the Spring fashion shows. This
style has never been introduced in the jewelry world. In particular, the soft, square
silhouette finds its inspiration in the Italian vintage trend called ‘television shape,’
reminiscent of the old monitors of the 1950s.”
Smokey quartz and
diamond cocktail
necklace. $2,800
Primavera bracelet.
$4900
Mother of pearl
mini cocktail ring.
$3200
Snake ring. $4,300
Gold is the primary element, but many pieces are set with diamonds and other
gemstones. Many feature pavé diamond details. Each piece includes a hidden 0.3
carat ruby, a signature of the designer, meant to bring good luck to the wearer.
Roberto Coin feels the Pois Moi collection is unlike anything he has ever created. In
fact, when asked what makes Pois Moi typically Roberto Coin, or how it compares to
other pieces in his line, he replies, “It does not compare at all. Pois Moi has a design that
I never thought I would create. If five or six years ago you had asked me about a design
like Pois Moi, I would unfortunately have answered you that I was not interested at all.
The first reason I finally designed the collection is because of the current real market
situation. I knew I had to create something that is new, young, innovative and super chic,
something powerfully elegant as I like to define the Pois Moi collection.”
As usual, his instincts were right on target. “The reason
why it is already an icon is the huge success the collection
has had with the public, which is the final arbiter, and
because of the extreme elegance that only simplicity can
make eternal,” he says.
Despite this renewed commitment to the everyday, accessible Pois Moi collection, Coin has not abandoned his
love for the glittering showpieces that are his trademark.
To the question, ‘what single item of jewelry should every
woman should own?’ he replies: “A big and colored cocktail ring, the larger the better.”
Amethyst mini
cocktail ring.
$3500
Shanghai single row
bracelet. $5,300
18
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
Amethyst and diamond
earrings. $2600
P OIS MOI COLLECTION
automotive innovation
BMWi
ELECTRIC CARS WITH VISION
20
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
It’s no secret that electric vehicles (EVs) are becoming popular. Advances in lithium-ion
battery technology have made it possible for EVs to achieve driving ranges that put them in
league with some gas-powered cars. BMW is moving in the EV market with an approach that
is more holistic than that of many companies. The BMW i series embodies a mindset that
could help to propel the entire industry forward by making this new technology as convenient
as possible. The Bavarian automaker just might be on track to take the EV market by storm
and change the way humans get around.
One of the problems that has plagued EV manufacturers is their laser-like focus on the
development of individual models. This level of focus has its benefits, but the auto industry
has demonstrated that scaling a single vehicle is neither easy nor cost effective. It is far better
to design with the idea that parts should be shared across as many models as possible. In the
long term, this reduces costs and improves reliability. BMW has applied this principle to the
development of its “i” sub-brand.
Even more to the point, the EV market is split between those who love EVs for the
economy they offer and those who love them for their performance. BMW is offering two
vehicle classes as part of an effort to meet the disparate desires of two different markets. It is
calling the cars i3 and i8, and they will be the first production models under the “i” sub-brand.
BMW i3
The i3 is the smaller and more utilitarian or the two i cars, but that doesn’t mean it is lacking
in amenities or finesse. While it is designed to be supremely functional, the i3 still offers the
performance and polish expected from a BMW. Its target market is the urban dweller who
needs reliable, efficient, easy-to-use transportation. The i3 offers just that by making the
most of its small size. It has a battery that will get it through the average urban day, is full of
functional features, and is small enough to park just about anywhere.
The i3 is 100% electric, which means it won’t contribute to urban pollution or degrade air
quality, but 100% electric vehicles come with range anxiety. BMW has a trick up its sleeve
aimed at alleviating that range anxiety that surrounds the occasional long-range trip, which
BMW refers to as “extra-urban.” The company has leveraged its standard ICE business to
eliminate the need to own both a gas-powered car and an EV. For individuals in this situation,
instead of purchasing a separate car for long trips, BMW guarantees that any time the i3
doesn’t meet that individual’s needs, the company will loan out one of its gas-powered cars.
In essence, BMW has eliminated one of the more significant costs associated with owning an
EV, which is the need to own a gas car as well.
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
[ 21
automotive innovation
BMW i8
The i8 is the sportier model. It’s what many refer to as a range
extender, because it has both an electric motor and a gas engine.
The car is designed to work in two modes: full electric and hybrid
electric-gasoline.
In electric mode, only the electric motor is engaged. This ensures
zero-emissions operation and the highest possible efficiency. The car
can manage about 22 miles on a single charge in electric-only mode,
making it useful for short urban trips.
In hybrid mode, both the electric motor and a small gas engine
work together to enhance performance and extend range. The hybrid drive not only extends the range of the car, but it allows it to
be more efficient than a vehicle with a single large gasoline engine.
By leveraging the torque of the electric motor and the power-generating capabilities of the gas engine, BMW is able to provide high
levels of performance with very low fuel consumption. In hybrid
mode, the i8 has a range similar to any gas vehicle.
22
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
The i Concept
It isn’t the cars that make the BMW i concept revolutionary so much as
it is the attention the company is giving to all aspects of the EV economy.
BMW’s focus on a holistic electric economy is reminiscent of its focus on the
hydrogen economy of few years ago. While that approach hit technological
hurdles, it didn’t dissuade BMW from the merits of focusing an an entire
industry rather than a small subsection of it. BMW has made it a goal to
promote customer convenience just as much as the environment with its
new i series. The result is a concept that takes a lot of the pain out of
switching to an electric transportation infrastructure. Part of BMW’s plan
was described above in regards to its gas loaner program for extra-urban
trips, but the company has gone further than that.
Carbon Fiber
space without an increase in the overall footprint of the car. This means
more energy goes into actually moving passengers rather into moving
components of the car.
The second accomplishment realized by BMW’s approach is that of
maximum modularity. Moving forward, this will allow the company to
perfect drive components separate from interior components, speeding up
both the design and testing phases of production. The result is decreased
production costs and thus decreased vehicle costs.
Finally, BMW’s approach reduces weight, allows for maximum insulation
against road noise, and provides for enhanced safety features. The company
claims that the i3 will offer the first completely silent driving experience as
a result of modular construction.
The i cars are the only series-produced passenger vehicles made of
carbon fiber. Carbon is 30% lighter than aluminum of the same strength,
which makes it ideal for weight-critical applications. In fact, the weight
savings from using carbon fiber for the i series are large enough to offset
the additional weight of the lithium-ion batteries. This breakthrough is the
result of a decade of research at BMW into how to automate the production
of carbon fiber components. BMW has gone so far as to locate the factory
that produces the carbon fiber in an area where hydroelectric power will
provide 100% of the plant’s energy needs. This helps to offset the massive
energy requirements of the carbon fiber production process.
LifeDrive
LifeDrive is the term BMW is giving to its approach to EV manufacturing.
The philosophy breaks car design into two parts. There is the passenger
module and the drive module. The drive module is made up of the battery,
suspension, and drive components, while the passenger module contains
the user interface, climate control, etc. By separating design and production
along these lines, BMW has accomplished several things.
First, it has increased space in the passenger area of small vehicles.
They can now offer as much room as some larger vehicles because drive
components don’t intrude into passenger space. The result is increased
The Bottom Line
The modular concept is likely to become the standard for vehicle
manufacturing in the future. In fact, it may even allow for a refueling
option in which the passenger module is simply transferred to a fresh drive
module. Whatever the outcome, BMW is using its considerable position in
the automotive industry to push not just a new technology, but a new way
of thinking about personal transport.
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
[ 23
designer spotlight
Aqua bead necklace and
sapphire bead necklace.
pretty in
penny
b y
C A R O L
B E S L E R
Penny Preville’s latest designs combine
the shimmer of opal and diamonds
The secret to award-winning designer Penny Preville’s pop-
and
O ut -
standing
Achievement
ularity is staying attuned to fashion and culture, while adhering
in Advertising
to her own signature style. “I believe in continuity,” says the de-
and Marketing
signer, who is known for her intricate detail work and millegrain
Award and The
finishing, as well as her keen sense of color. Shades of blue are
Women’s Jewelers
a recurring theme in her jewelry, and this year deeply saturated
Association Award
opal, combined with sparkling diamonds are in the forefront.
for Excellence in
“For the new diamond pieces, I was inspired by the Art Deco
era of the 1920s and 1930s,” says Preville. “I love the grace of
Design.
“I’ve always found
the curves, combined with the architectural elements of the
inspiration in a wom-
period. That’s what brought these new pieces to life for me.”
an’s lifestyle. I thrive on
Opal is also a key gem for the designer. “I’ve incorporated
designing pieces that can
unique opals into my designs, as they allow me to display a
be worn every day, from day
rainbow palette of colors,” she says. “With an array of shades
to night, as well as pieces that
from midnight blue, transitioning into blue green, along with
express a woman’s individuality.”
flashes of intense pink, these opals remind me of a sunset at the
Her inspirations are constantly
changing. “I have studied jewelry designs
beach, as day turns into evening.”
Preville was one of the first winners of the Designer of the
and cultures from all over the world,” she says. “I am inspired
Year award at the Jewelers of America Show in New York. Since
by travel, architecture and art, as well as different eras in his-
then, she has been winning the hearts of jewelry lovers across
tory. The influences on my collections span from Imperial
America with her collections. Throughout the years, she has
Russia to Byzantine, Indian Raj to Art Deco.” Her growing
been the recipient of the Blenheim Award for Continued Excel-
list of fans includes Sofia Vergara, Sandra Bullock and Jennifer
lence in Design, Town & Country’s Diamond Designers Excel-
Lopez.
Blue jean aquamarine drop
earrings. $2995
24
lence Award
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
Blue jean aquamarine
pendant. $2875
AGS certified
b y
C A R O L
B E S L E R
The Ultimate
Jewelry Professional
What does it mean to be AGS-certified?
There are a handful of select jewelry stores in the U.S. who call themselves AGS retailers, holding one of the titles bestowed by the American
Gem Society. But what does it really mean? The short answer is that there
is a lot more to being an AGS jeweler than simply paying a fee and belonging to an association. AGS credentials must be earned and maintained.
The American Gem Society was founded in 1934 by a small group
of leading jewelers. Their goal was to create an organization that could
help protect the jewelry-buying public from fraud and false advertising.
That purpose was naturally extended to ongoing education, resulting
in the highest standard of knowledge in the industry. Today, approximately 3,400 jewelers, retailers, suppliers, individual titleholders and
affiliates have earned the right to join the American Gem Society by
dedicating themselves to consumer protection, ethical business practices and the development and maintenance of superior gemological
skills and knowledge.
Only 1 in 20 jewelers have met the exacting requirements necessary for
membership. To join AGS, every member must go through a peer-reviewed
application process, followed by an annual recertification exam. This process
ensures that every AGS member you meet is at the top of their game, and
more importantly, each one has pledged to protect the consumer.
The following titles are earned through the American Gem Society:
Registered Jeweler, RJ
To earn this title, a jeweler must truly understand jewelry, diamonds
and gemstones. To earn this title, the associate must complete extensive
coursework and classroom study, along with written and practical exams
in diamond grading.
Certified Gemologist, CG
A Certified Gemologist has taken advanced studies in diamonds and
colored gemstones. A CG also demonstrates mastery of diamond, gemstone, and precious metal testing procedures.
26
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
Kwiat Platinum round and pear
shape diamond drop earrings.
Certified Gemologist Appraiser, CGA
This title is the most highly regarded among peers in the jewelry industry. It certifies that the title holder can not only identify diamonds,
gemstones and jewelry but also determine their value. It requires advanced training and experience in determining the value of diamonds
and gemstones.
Independent Certified Gemologist Appraiser, ICGA
This title represents individuals whose sole business is appraising. He
or she does not purchase or sell diamonds, gemstones or jewelry. To
receive this certification, the appraiser must complete the requirements
for RJ, CG, and CGA, as well as an extensive course in personal property appraising. He or she must not only complete the annual recertification exam, but also submit proof of continuing education in their
field every five years.
Certified Sales Associate, CSA
A salesperson with this designation behind his or her name has passed
the Graduate Sales Associate course and the AGS Professional module.
This assures you that the salesperson is knowledgeable about the diamonds and gemstones they are selling.
Certified Jewelry Arts Professional, CJAP
This designation is for those members who have completed studies in
the art of jewelry repair and/or manufacturing.
designer spotlight
b y
N A N C Y
O L S O N
The Runwell Chronograph, 47 mm,
with black dial and orange accents.
Made in America
The Shinola
watch brand is proudly manufactured and
a ss e m b l e d i n
and already has a loyal following
D e t r o i t,
Thanks to its long history in watchmaking, the United States
is fertile ground for a new generation of watch companies with a
Made in America hallmark of distinction. Shinola takes it one giant
step further, offering not only American-soil roots but also a “Built
in Detroit” ideology. Most compellingly, Shinola turned 30,000
square feet of space in the former Argonaut building in midtown
Detroit into a state-of-the-art watch manufactory, thus melding the
city’s storied past with a confident anticipation of its future.
The company’s first timepiece, the much-anticipated limited
edition Shinola Runwell, formally introduced in 2013, sold out
in an astounding eight days. It was followed by new designs in
the Runwell style, as well as other collections with such interesting names as The Birdy, The Brakeman, and The Gomelsky, each
28
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
The Gomelsky, 36mm
steel case with rose
gold-colored bezel
and white dial.
The Brakeman in steel
with a blue dial and date
on a leather strap.
The Shinola Runwell
with Date, 36mm rose
gold-colored case.
distinguished by its unique shape and character. The all-quartz
steel watches come in a variety of sizes and styles, from a 28mm
ladies Runwell to 47mm chronographs. The timepieces display
the name and number of the watch movement on the dial and
reveal each piece’s serial number on the caseback. And not surprisingly, the finely crafted straps offer Shinola yet another opportunity to walk its talk: each strap is also made in America.
The leather straps are produced by the Shinola Leather Co.
in Detroit and Hadley-Roma in Largo, Florida — from American leather, of course. The U.S.-born Hadley-Roma, founded in
1903 in Hadley, Massachusetts, has grown its stellar reputation on
its American-made products, including watch straps in a variety
of styles, colors, and materials. Shinola’s rubber straps, found on
some of its sports-style watches, are made from American rubber
by Stern Manufacturing in Staples, Minnesota.
Entirely hand assembled in Detroit, the Runwell collection is
characterized by its round steel case — some with PVD coatings
— and retro spirit. The watch comes on a strap or bracelet, and
offers a variety of dial color options and functions. The Brakeman, available in 40mm or 46mm, is characterized by its cushion-shaped case and date window at 3 o’clock.
Women are not left behind when it comes to Shinola’s range of
timepieces. The 34 mm Birdy features a round case and slender
bracelet or double-wrap strap in on-trend colors — like orange
or white leather. And the Gomelsky, with its cushion shape and
small seconds at 6 o’clock, is a go-to watch for day or evening.
A special collector’s club named The Foundry was established
by Shinola exclusively for owners of its limited edition products,
thus the company is well poised to entertain a variety of collectors
and their myriad interests. Membership benefits include invitations to private events, an annual tour of the Shinola Detroit factory (airfare not provided), first access to limited edition watches
and previews of upcoming products.
In partnership with Ronda AG, the Swiss quartz movement
manufacturer, Shinola employs about 285 people, the vast majority of whom call Detroit their home town. In 2012, Swiss watchmakers were brought on site to teach the intricacies of watch and
movement assembly to the newly hired staff, and the result is a
team-spirit enthusiasm that is palpable — and transcendent, since
there is much more at work here than watchmaking.
Shinola’s larger mission of bringing manufacturing back to the
U.S. is evident at every turn, from its investment in the city, which
it affectionately dubs, “the new watchmaking capital of America,”
to the quality of the watches, proudly marked “Built in Detroit” on
the caseback. Bedrock Manufacturing, parent of Shinola, thoughtfully considered a number of other locations besides Detroit. But
with its long legacy in American manufacturing — and its enthusiastic work force — the Motor City won out, hands down.
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
[ 29
celebrity secrets
b y
Sandra Bullock
Trivia
It’s hard to find someone who doesn’t like actress Sandra Bullock. She has that charming, allAmerican girl-next-door appeal. Her sweet demeanor extends to both comedic and dramatic
roles on screen. How much do you know about some of Sandra’s most memorable movies?
Take our test and see.
1. Sandra Bullock and the rest of the cast play teenagers from varied backgrounds
in Who Shot Patakango (1989). When and where does the movie take place?
2. In Love Potion #9 (1992), Sandra Bullock plays Diane Farrow. What is her
profession?
3. Sandra Bullock plays police lieutenant Lenina Huxley in the sci-fi crime
drama Demolition Man (1993). What is the name of the futuristic
utopian city she presides in?
4. What is the title of the 1994 movie that put Sandra Bullock, as the
courageous Annie, on the road to fame and who is her male costar?
5. What is the title of the 1995 movie in which Sandra Bullock plays
Lucy Moderatz, a Chicago Transit Authority token collector who falls
in love with two brothers?
6. In the romantic historical movie In Love and War (1996), Sandra
plays a nurse during WWI. What famous real writer does she become
romantically involved with?
7. Which actress plays Sandra Bullock’s troubled sister in Practical
Magic (1998), a film about the generational bonds among a family
of witches?
8. What is the title of the 2002 movie in which Sandra Bullock and
her mother have a huge rift over Sandra’s published complaint
that she had an unhappy childhood?
9. In The Lake House (2006), Sandra Bullock plays Doctor Kate
Forster and her love interest, Alex Wyler, is played by Keanu
Reeves. What is Wyler’s profession?
10. The Blind Side, (2009) based on a true story, features Sandra
Bullock as a mother who adopts a young man who eventually
becomes an NFL football player. What are the names of these
two real life individuals?
Answers
Who Shot Pantango (1989) takes place in 1950s Brooklyn, New York.
Diane Farrow is a biologist.
The name of the futuristic utopian community Lieutenant Lenina Huxley
presides in is San Angeles.
4. The title of the 1994 movie that put Sandra Bullock on the road to fame is
Speed. She costars with Keanu Reeves.
5. The title of the 1995 movie in which Sandra Bullock falls in love with two
brothers is While You Were Sleeping.
6. In Love And War (1996), Sandra becomes romantically involved with young
Ernest Hemingway.
7. Actress Nicole Kidman plays Sandra Bullock’s troubled sister in Practical Magic
(1998).
8. The 2002 movie in which Sandra’s character has a huge rift with her mother is Divine
Secrets of the Ya-Ya Sisterhood.
9. Alex Wyler is an architect.
10. Sandra Bullock plays Leigh Anne Touhy, a mother who adopts future NFL football
player Michael Oher.
1.
2.
3.
30
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
D A N I E L L E
O L I V I A
T E F F T
WE ARE AN AMERICAN COMPANY DEDICATED TO
MAKING THINGS AGAIN IN AMERICA.
THE RUNWELL FEATURING A WHITE DIAL WITH REMOTE SECONDHAND SWEEP IN A
STAINLESS STEEL CASE AND DETROIT-BUILT ARGONITE 1069 MOVEMENT.
designer spotlight
b y
H E D D A
S C H U P A K
100 Years
of Diamonds
F
Kwiat jewelry is a favorite on the red carpet
Natalie Portman
Founded in 1907 in New York City,
Kwiat has been family owned and
operated for more than 100
years. Sam Kwiat arrived
in the United States on a
steamship from Europe
and, upon arrival, opened
a diamond jewelry store
in the heart of New York
City’s diamond district —
at the time, downtown near
the financial district.
Halle Berry
Platinum and diamond
snowflake drop earrings.
He quickly earned a reputation
as a skilled diamond merchant who
was highly regarded for his expertise in
cutting exceptional diamonds.
Sam’s son, David, joined the family business in 1933. Like his
father, David was a talented designer and craftsman who, over time,
formed an impressive collection of important diamond jewelry that
could be found at the most exclusive shops on New York’s Fifth
Avenue and around the world.
32
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
Claire Danes
By the 1960s, David had become a renowned diamond merchant. In 1965 he purchased a 126-carat rough diamond that
yielded the 50-carat “Teardrop of Africa,” cut for famed jeweler
Harry Winston. This cemented his reputation as one of the finest
diamond cutters in the world.
Kwiat diamond jewelry is a favorite of celebrities on the red carpet.
Whether it’s the Oscars, Emmys, Grammys, or any other glamorous
event, there are sure to be multiple stars draped in Kwiat jewels: Natalie
Portman, Michelle Williams, Claire Danes, Tina Fey, Fergie, Halle Berry,
Kwiat Echo double diamond
loop earrings, which were worn
by actress Emmy Rossum.
Emmy Rossum, Glenn Close, and many more. Even the men love a Kwiat
diamond: Tom Cruise and Forest Whitaker, to name just two!
In 2007, in celebration of its 100th anniversary, the Kwiat family opened a
flagship boutique in New York City’s luxury shopping district on Madison Avenue. To this day, Sam’s grandsons, Sheldon and Lowell, and his great-grandchildren
run the business according to the same principles that established the family legacy:
integrity, quality, craftsmanship and design.
Diamond strings necklace
in 18k white gold.
100 Years of Diamonds
Glenn Close
Emmy Rossum
Michelle Williams
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
[ 33
designer spotlight
b y
C A R O L
B E S L E R
The Aaron Basha jewelry collection is all about good karma and good fun
Tantalizing Talismans
Leather bracelets with diamond
and gold links adorned with
Aaron Basha charms.
Aaron Basha is most celebrated for its
famous jeweled Baby Shoe pendants, originally
conceived to celebrate the birth of the founder’s
first grandchild. Since then, the company’s
trademark theme has been “Forever Young,”
with whimsical charms, bracelets, rings and
necklaces, many with symbolic meanings and
motifs.
The brand’s newest collection, Fluorescent,
or “FLUO” resonates with this spirit of joie de
vivre. “The vibrant, high-energy colors in the
collection are very happy,” says Sasson Basha,
president of the company and son of founder
Aaron Basha. “They are also fashionable. Vibrant fluorescent colors are dominating clothing, handbags and accessories right now. We do
tend to follow fashion trends, and create products that are very wearable and fun,” he adds.
The colorful, cheerful charm-based jewelry
of Aaron Basha has been charming collectors
since the 1950s, and the brand’s aesthetic —
with its baby-shoe charms, lady bugs and other
whimsical motifs — may be cute, but the jewelry is not only for children.
“The collection is young at heart, but the
jewelry is ageless,” says Sasson. “There are no
boundaries. Our pieces are 18k gold, many
with diamonds and precious gemstones, and
they are all hand made in Italy.”
The Evil Eye is another favorite collection. It
falls into the category of symbolic charms and
tokens of love and is said to protect the wearer
from bad energy. Like the ladybug, it is a symbol of good luck.
“We didn’t invent the symbolism of the Evil
Eye, but we have contemporized it and made
it into fine, fashionable jewelry,” says Sasson.
“People crave good luck. The world is going
through such turmoil, everyone wants to hold
onto some good energy, and this is seen as a tal-
isman that will protect them and their families
from harm.” The collection is made of twinkling
chains of 18k gold, set with diamonds, strung
with a choice of Evil Eye charms.
Aaron Basha jewelry collections are distributed worldwide through a very exclusive network of top retail jewelers. In the United States,
only 60 retailers carry the jewelry. Fans of the
collection include Jennifer Lopez, Catherine
Zeta-Jones, Madonna, and Heidi Klum.
Our motto is: “We take fun
seriously,” says Sasson Basha,
son of founder Aaron Basha,
and president of the company.
Aaron Basha’s trademark Baby Shoe Charms
in 18k gold, enamel and diamonds.
Aaron Basha Evil Eye bracelets in 18k gold with
diamonds and enamel, on colorful silk cords.
34
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
wine & spirits
how to serve your
A
Pinot Noir
As with any wine, the temperature at which you serve pinot noir is key to perceiving the numerous and subtle flavors. Serving a glass at the right temperature will enable you and your
guests to experience everything the wine has to offer.
First of all, a little background is in order. A pinot noir wine starts with pinot noir
grapes, which are grown all over the world. The most famous pinot noirs are grown in
France’s Burgundy region, but many other wonderful varieties come from California
and Canada. Interesting tidbit: A champagne is produced by blending chardonnay
and pinot noir grapes. Pinot Noir’s darkened reddish color comes from the process used to produce the wine, where the clear pinot noir juice is left touching
the dark grape skins.
What flavors should you expect from a properly served glass of pinot noir?
After all, the primary reason to be mindful of serving temperatures is the
subtle flavoring of the wine. Though pinot noir’s notes do vary from region
to region, there are nevertheless a few common flavors you can expect to
find in a well-served glass: smoke, black cherry, mushroom, leather, plum,
tomato, berries, and earth. A well-served pinot noir will also have a rich,
velvety, soft, and full to medium-bodied quality.
And what about serving temperature? Finding the best temperature to
store and serve pinot noir involves a delicate balancing act. Do it right and
you will preserve all the above-listed characteristics perfectly. Your wine
will stay a beautiful balance of fruit, alcohol, and acidity that reveals the subtle
nuances of flavor.
Serving temperature does not change these characteristics, contrary to popular belief.
Temperature affects the degree to which your palate can interpret them. Pinot noir is
best served at slightly below what most consider room temperature. It is a myth that red
wines are room-temperature wines. Room temperature is too warm. Lighter-bodied red
wines like pinot noir should be served around 55 degrees Fahrenheit, or 12.8 degrees Celsius.
As you serve the wine, be careful to hold the glass correctly. Hold the stem of the glass such
that your hand does not warm the wine as you pour and as you lift the glass to your lips. If
you’re drinking with stemless glasses, only pick up the glass when you’re planning to take a sip.
It can be helpful to store bottles of pinot noir in a basement or refrigerator to help them last
longer. Storing bottles at room temperature means you have to cool them down prior to
serving, typically by leaving them in the refrigerator for two hours. Don’t cool them down
too far or you’ll miss more subtle aspects of the wine.
Storing the wine in an area that’s too warm, on the other hand, can actually affect the
wine’s flavor profile. If you store a pinot noir, or any wine, in a place where it will be
too warm for a long period, the wine can age prematurely, or the flavor may break
down. The same goes for storing the wine at temperatures that are too cold. The best
temperature for storing red wines, like pinot noir, is the same temperature at which
they are best served.
36
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
fashionable influences
b y
D E B O R A H
Color, Pattern, and Texture Define Fall Fashion and Jewelry
Left: Model from Le Vian’s annual Las Vegas Red Carpet Review. Center and right, models in the Academy of Art University show
and the Marissa Webb show both during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center in New York City. (Photo center by Randy
Brooke/Getty Images for Academy of Art University; photo right by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz)
38
]
Design and color for all 2014 are inspired by everything from
on the nubby appearance of hand-woven carpet. Moreover,
books, artisan crafts, photography and retro architecture to gour-
animals of all kinds are embroidered, printed and collaged onto
met food, vintage fabrics and exotic landscapes. On the fashion
an array of garments, with birds a favorite. Statements remain
runways, seven key directions stand out for the season: oversize
simple, and renderings beautiful.
tailoring, ’60s inspiration, fur, knit layers, pastels, plaids and shine.
Michael O’Connor, jewelry stylist and Reelz Channel host
Many of the season’s trends center on texture and coziness;
of MovieStyle with Michael O’Connor, sees international in-
designers seem to be latching on to the concept of comfy,
fluences, particularly Asian and Indian, inspiring exotic color
wearable dressing. Texture is a big direction for the season,
blocks and mixes in fashion and accessories. Design tendencies
especially prevalent in arts and crafts looks, some even taking
are bigger, bolder and more colorful.
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
Y O N I C K
&
PAMELA HORTON
AMANDA HORTON
YOUR CHOICE FOR RESIDENTIAL REAL ESTATE REPRESENTATION
Selling Luxury Properties Since 1989
EXPERIENCE | PERSONALIZED SERVICE | PROFESSIONALISM | RESULTS
Contact Pamela & Amanda to Discuss Your Real Estate Needs Today
PAMELA HORTON | 949.633.6667 | Pamela@PamelaHorton.com
AMANDA HORTON | 949.422.6122 | Amanda@AmandaHorton.com
ww w.PamelaHorton.c om
PAMELA HORTON & AMANDA HORTON
949.633.6667 | 949.422.6122
Pamela@PamelaHorton.com | Amanda@AmandaHorton.com
w w w. P a m e l a H o r t o n . c o m
COLOR
PAT T E R N
TEXTURE
Because everyone is looking for more value these days,
there has been a blurring of the line between fashion
and fine, with beauty found in lesser quality gems,
weight saving cuts (slices, doublets) and rough crystals. There is also a greater use of contemporary metals and non-precious elements like wood and leather.
The goal is to create jewelry that is comfortable and
appropriate to wear every day.
COLOR & PATTERN
Popular patterns this fall include chevron, houndstooth, plaid
Steven Kretchmer
double loop rose and
yellow gold tension set
necklace. $5750
and lacey florals, all of which are re-imagined in artful, colorful
mixes of gems and metals, says Eddie Le Vian, designer and CEO
of Le Vian. Also important are long links as details in rings and
pendants or layered in earrings.
The wrap style is also back. “For Fall 2014, this design tendency can be found in tops, skirts, shoes and bags, and translated
in jewelry with overlapping swaths of stone studded gold,” Le
A model walks the runway at the
Libertine fashion show during
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall
2014 at Lincoln Center in New York
City. (Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty
Images for Mercedes-Benz)
Rutilated quartz ring
in rose gold and
diamonds. $4900
Vian says of the wrap. He also reminds us that 2015 is the Year
of the Horse, so we are seeing more equestrian details (saddles,
reins, bits, stirrups, horseshoes) in jewelry and watches.
Among the most sought after gems in the fall color palette are
the “ite” stones: morganite, kunzite, iolite, azurite, labradorite,
rubellite, rhodolite and Tanzanite. Realizing the strength of Radiant Orchid, Pantone’s 2014 Color of the Year, designer Gregg
Ruth has seen tremendous demand for his latest Baby Pinks collection of natural pink diamond jewelry, which exhibits the full
range of pink and purple hues that are prominent in fashion and
jewelry.
Undoubtedly, a spectrum of gems is en vogue, with mixing colors and shapes a strong trend in design, a defining mark for brands
like Vianna. Expressing its Brazilian DNA in a mosaic of gems
like tourmaline, beryl, topaz and quartz, Vianna is recognized for
unexpected combinations of color and shape, both traditional and
fancy, which complement key trends for the coming season.
Aaron Basha pink flower
shoe and puffed diamond
heart charms on a taupe
strap with pave clasp.
Aaron Basha flower
bracelet. $1600
Aaron Basha flower and evil
eye bracelet. $1900
40
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
DESIGN DIRECTIONS
Amanda Gizzi, spokesperson for the Jewelry Information
Penny Preville Firebolt
necklace and deco
scroll chain.
Center, says significant design directions for the coming season include: abstract minimalism, characterized by clean lines,
unfussy silhouettes; jewelry that moves or transforms; three-dimensional, detailed patterns; geometric prisms, graphic design;
rococo style, scrollwork, floral motifs; Byzantine inspiration,
mosaics, textures, and color variation; mysterious constructions, asymmetrical silhouettes, ornate irregularities; and origami, pleated surfaces, layering and angular cutouts.
Mega design directions, according to Swarovski , Austrian-based creator of precision cut genuine and created gemstones and crystal design, include Eastern European influences
in folkloric traditions and handicrafts, alternative ways of
wearing jewelry like ear cuffs and head ornaments; creatures,
juxtaposing natural and man-made materials in hybrid flora; intimacy, emotional design that connects to all senses — message,
perfume and body jewels; classics inspired by antiquity with a
Kwiat multi-color
gemstone stacking
bands.
strong reference to architecture in armor-like designs, intaglios,
cameos and ancient coins; and primal energies, exploring the
physical and metaphysical — think chakra balancing jewels.
The key to great fashion and jewelry design is versatility,
says Amanda Coakley of Goshwara. Paramount for the New
York brand is to create designs that are adaptable, as seen most
keenly in its latest collection, aptly named Freedom.
Kwiat multi-color
gemstone hinged
bangle bracelets.
“Two huge trends in fashion and
jewelry have been layering, as well
as the super simple, chic look.
These directions are translated in
pendants that can be worn with
or without stones, paved in diamonds or a clean metal look, and
available in every color, including amethyst, blue topaz, citrine
and moon quartz. Wear a simple
teardrop pendant on long chain or
multiple pendants and colors layered on the neck. Bold, liberating,
inspiring!”
Monica Rich Kosann
gate locket. $7500
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
[ 41
tropical getaway
Paradise Island
M A
U
R
After Mark Twain was bowled over by the beauty of
Mauritius, he quoted an islander, saying “that Mauritius
was made first,” by God, “and then heaven.”
The island, in the Indian Ocean east of Madagascar,
remains a place where luxury, charm, and character are
elevated by soul. Elegant resorts among the world’s finest tropical hideaways vie to highlight Zen, Feng Shui, or
Ayurvedic credentials, and a sense of natural harmony is
as important as Givenchy spas, personal butler service,
and champion-designed golf courses. Add the distinctiveness of varying coastal resort settings, a soaring mountain
backdrop here, and a genuine fishing village vibe there.
Mauritius offers all the touchstones of other tropical
beacons in terms of pristine, palm-bedecked white sand
beaches, blue lagoons, and a lush interior full of natural
42
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
I
T
I
U
S
wonders. But it adds a brilliant cultural melting pot vibe
where French, British, Indian, Chinese, and Dutch influences mix sweetly. If there’s a festival to be had, Mauritians hop aboard irrespective of which particular gods are
the excuse for the party!
This cultural mix sprinkles Mauritius with historic
sites many tropical getaways could only dream of. Atmospheric Buddhist temples rub shoulders with opulent
Catholic shrines, while the ten-meter tall sacred Hindu
statue of Shiva by the crater lake of Grand Bassin is a
must-get snap. Add colonial mansions worthy of star-billing in World of Interiors, plus tea and sugar plantations
steeped in colorful history. This is an island truly blessed
with perfect outings for travelers wanting more for their
long-haul buck than uninspiring fly and flop.
tropical getaway
Sunset at a luxury Mauritus resort
Take Eureka House, an elegant 1830 Creole mansion by the
River Moka, where British and French aristocrats lived the life
of Reilly amid magnificent gardens. Now you can enjoy this
ravishing antique-filled time capsule stuffed with period arts
and antique Chinese and Indian furniture, complemented by
garden trails and river waterfalls. Refuel at the Old Kitchen
restaurant with island dishes such as smoked marlin or dry
beef curry with pumpkin fricassé and peanut rougaille.
For a different poke into grand colonial lifestyle, hit the
1850s Château de Labourdonnais, a tropical take on Italian
neo-classical style. Its orchards and spice groves are a scented
riot of nutmeg, clove, and papaya, a green paradise grazed by
giant Aldabra tortoises. The chateau restaurant is excellent,
and you can discover the joys of Mauritian rum by way of
aperitif or digestif at the adjacent Rhumerie des Mascareignes.
If you fancy something not quite as strong, earn yourself a
cuppa on the island’s Tea Trail. Founded in 1892, Bois Chéri
Port Louis Mauritius
city skyline
links in Mauritus
The beauty of the
Local band playing and dancing Sega. It has origins in the music
of
slaves on the island and is usually sung in Creole.
Beach b
eds, um
brella,
beach o and jetty on th
n Mauri
e
tius Isla
nd
44
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
Waterfalls at the park
in Chamarel
is the biggest and oldest plantation, offering a museum and a tea factory
where you can taste some of its 42 varieties of tea while soaking up panoramic views across the south of the island. The Domaine des Aubineaux,
meanwhile, centers on a colonial house decorated with 17th-century East
India Company gems. Both plantations offer fantastic afternoon teas — yes,
with scones — more memorable than any grand British hotel!
Make time to dip into some of the island settlements too, kicking off in
the bustling 17th-century capital Port Louis. Browse upmarket duty-free
stores on the Caudan Waterfront, sniff and snap in the technicolor food
market, check out a real-life dodo skeleton at the Natural History Museum,
and then dream of skipping across the lake of giant water lilies in the vast
300-year-old Botanic Garden. And if you’re feeling lucky, you could try
and win back your airfare with a flutter at Champs de Mars, one of the
world’s oldest racecourses.
Mahebourg, where the Dutch landed in 1598, was capital before Port
Louis and remains a bastion of old-school Mauritian style with a pink-
mauriti
tropical getaway
paved waterfront where rustic restaurants beckon before or after a visit to the island’s main history museum, housed in dreamy 18th century splendor.
Village hideaways like Triolet and Bananes, meanwhile, offer a chance to get close to daily island life with a pew at a local bar or snacking on delicious street food like dhal phuri (the island’s best comes from Dewa’s in Rose Hill), while soaking up the color and hubbub of the daily food markets
in almost every town. A good choice is Chamarel, whose surroundings include some of Mauritius’s top natural attractions: the verdant rainforest of
the Black Gorges National Park with its range of easy hiking options, the plunging
silvery thread of the Chamarel Falls, plus the surrealistic geological folding simply
dubbed the Seven Coloured Earths.
After a day of intrepid exploring, take a break from your resort restaurants with a dip
into the island’s fine dining scene. Domaine de Bel Ombre (domainedebelombre.mu)
is a candlelit restaurant set in a colonial mansion where fusion platters might include
pheasant with tamarind confit. Reservations are essential; try for a balcony table. Or
to try unforgettable Mauritius-style Chinese, head for Domaine Anna (domaineanna.
net) in the middle of a cane field, approached on a torch-lit path. While it’s open for
lunch, treat yourself to dinner in thatched waterside gazebos amid tropical gardens.
Giant Turle,
Domaine du Chasseur
t
in Mauritius, the las
Saint Aubin estate
tea route
stop of the famous
For more luxe living, intimately memorable experiences abound
through local operators such as Mauritius Attractions (mauritiusattractions.com). Book a gastronomic dinner cruise on a luxury 1920s motor
yacht departing nightly from Pointe aux Canonniers for fine dining on
the ocean wave, or enjoy a taste of the high life by skipping off and over
the water on an exclusive seaplane tour.
For a chance to swim with dolphins in the open sea rather than the
shallows, consider a speedboat excursion to Benitiers Island that also
includes alfresco lunch on the beach. Or go for an underwater sea walk!
It’s ideal for non-divers. You’re whisked by speedboat from Grand Baie
to a northern lagoon for a four-meter descent into a world of dazzling
coral and curious tropical fish. Breathing and every other necessity is
taken care of. You don’t even have to remove your glasses, though no
one really needs to trouble Specsavers to see that Mark Twain chap was
probably right about Mauritius and paradise.
Eureka Colonial House
ius island
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
[ 45
designer spotlight
b y
C A R O L
A
C
B
Jewelry as Memento
Monica Rich Kosann’s unique lockets
help create personal heirlooms
The jewelry of Monica Rich Kosann is about storytelling –
each piece helps a woman to tell her own personal story, one
that is unique to her. “Like photographs, lockets capture your
personal moments, ideas and inspirations, so that each woman
who wears one becomes her own storyteller. “They reflect the
daily adventures that you value the most and the people that
inspire you along the way,” says Monica, who is also a successful portrait photographer and home accessory designer.”
The designer’s ultimate goal is to integrate her clients’
most cherished memories and possessions into their daily
lives and to help them tell their unique personal stories in
an original and customized way, and to create something of
lasting value. “We’ve taken a classic idea and made it contem-
porary and modern,” she says. “Fashions may change, but our
lockets are designed to never go out of style. They provide an
elegant and sexy way for a woman to reveal her secrets when
and where she chooses.”
Years ago, Monica began scouring antique shows and flea
markets in search of vintage lockets, cigarette cases and powder
compacts that could be adapted to hold family photographs.
As demand for these unique pieces grew, she developed her
collection of jewelry and home accessories. “My one driving
question when I design a piece of jewelry is ‘Can a woman give
this piece to her daughter in 20 years?’” Today, Monica’s brand-name jewelry, image cases and
frames are sold in 100 exclusive fine jewelers across the country. She is a member of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America). Her book Living With What You Love was
published by the Clarkson Potter division of Random House.
A) Rectangular Gate Locket Necklace in sterling silver
B) Petite Stone Lockets in 18k yellow gold featuring double sided blue topaz, rose quartz, or rock crystal
C) Sterling silver lockets, from left to right: Petite Sunburst Locket, Oval Star-Set Locket, Oval Sunburst Locket
46
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
B E S L E R
designer spotlight
Jack Kelége
Dedicated to the perfection of every facet of his craft, Jack Kelége is an artist, master craftsman and, most importantly, an uncompromising perfectionist.
Established in 1972 and headquartered in Los Angeles, California, Jack Kelége
employs some of the finest bench jewelers to be found anywhere, all of which he
hand-picked and mentored for an average of 20 years.
It is unique that he is both the designer and manufacturer of his own collections.
Jack’s attention to each individual piece is what makes his jewelry heirlooms-in-themaking. Every piece of jewelry is tailored to fit its respective diamonds and gemstones
precisely. Kelége and his staff frequently work for months on a single design or piece
of jewelry to ensure that their clients receive nothing short of perfection.
“Design is always subjective,” says Jack. “You may like a style or not. However,
quality is objective. Above all, I want people to look at any of my pieces and recognize
their superior craftsmanship and quality.”
It is this obsession with quality and detail that has catapulted Jack Kelége to the
very pinnacle of his craft.
Jack Kelege 18k white
gold and diamond
semi-mount.
Diamond, sapphire, and ruby
bands in 18k platinum by Jack
Kelege.
48
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
Platinum and diamond ring by
Jack Kelege.
wedding planner
b y
H E D D A
S C H U P A K
the engagement ring
R
Rings to symbolize betrothal and
marriage have been around almost as long
as the concept of marriage itself. The next
time some curmudgeon tells you it’s just
an invention of some ad agency (more on
that later), tell him it’s just not so.
18k rose and white gold
semi-mount with cushion
shaped halo by Precision Set.
The tradition of a diamond engagement ring dates back to 1477, when Archduke Maximilian of Austria presented one to Mary of Burgundy upon their betrothal. But that’s just
Lazare Kaplan pave twist.
the first diamond engagement ring. There is ample evidence of betrothal and marriage rings
used by the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans. Indeed, the Romans were the ones who
introduced gold for betrothal rings.
A Roman bride-to-be was presented with two engagement rings: a gold ring to wear in
public, and an iron one to wear around the house while doing chores. Common practice for
several centuries, this is one idea whose time has come back. Iron, not so much, but having
a diamond wedding band for dressy occasions, a plain gold or platinum band for everyday,
and a tough tungsten or titanium band for sports or active use is as relevant today as it was
more than 2,000 years ago.
In 860 AD, Pope Nicholas I wrote a letter describing some
differences between the Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox traditions: one of those was that in the Western church, a man presents his betrothed with an
engagement ring.
During the Renaissance, two major events
shaped the evolution of modern bridal
rings: one, the diamond ring given to Mary
of Burgundy sparked a trend among the
elite social classes to give a diamond ring
for engagement, and two, the Protestant
Reformation that eschewed religious
grandeur also drove the wedding ring to
replace the betrothal ring as the primary
symbol of marriage.
50
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
Lazare Kaplan Carmen aria.
M A G A Z I N E
wedding planner
Radiant cut semi-mount
from Precision Set’s
“Extraordinary” collection.
I
In early North America, the Puritans, Quakers, and other religious
of the Art Deco
groups who shunned ornamentation or jewelry gave a thimble in lieu of
era that followed,
a wedding ring, although historians believe some women cut the tops off
meanwhile, reflected
their thimbles to wear as rings. (As an aside, the Protestant Reformation
a love of all things
also launched the Swiss watch industry. With the rise of Calvinism and
stark and modern.
its doctrine of simplicity, jewelers who saw their livelihood slipping away
Not surprisingly,
turned to horology. Watches and clocks, like thimbles, were deemed ac-
the popularity of dia-
ceptable because of their usefulness, unlike jewelry, which was consid-
mond engagement rings
ered purely ornamental.)
declined during the Great
During the Victorian era, a huge diamond discovery in South Africa in
Depression, but after World
1867 made diamond jewelry accessible to more people. Queen Victoria’s
War II, Americans were poised
marriage to Albert was a true love match, rare in an era when royal mar-
for consumption after more than 15
riages were usually made for political or economic, not romantic, reasons.
years of hardship. Returning GIs flocked to newly built suburbs, filled
While diamond engagement rings were still largely considered the domain
their new houses with shiny new appliances and their garages with shiny
of the nobility, their reach was extending down to the more affluent of
new automobiles.
the masses. In honor of the love between Victoria and Albert, popular
It was during this time that De Beers, through its marketing agency
design trends were romantic motifs like hearts, bows, or even snakes, seen
N.W. Ayer, created the greatest marketing slogan of all time: “A Dia-
as a symbol of eternity.
mond Is Forever.” It didn’t invent the diamond engagement ring, but it
It was during this era that the famed “Tiffany Setting,” a solitary dia-
would cement the idea that a diamond ring was essential to being truly
mond held in place by six prongs, was introduced, although it would not
and properly engaged.
become the norm for some time yet.
The
Industrial
Revolution
next
ushered in greater prosperity and a
growing middle class, putting
fine jewelry within reach of
The presence of a diamond in an engagement
ring rocketed from 10% just before WWII to
more than 80% at the end of the 20th century.
even more people. By the
Edwardian era of the early
1900s,
rings
engagement
had
become
a widely accepted
custom. Edwardian
design
featured
diamonds in lacy,
ornate
Platinum and diamond semimount by Jack Kelege with a
cluster style halo.
platinum
settings.
The
geometric
styles
Jack Kelege platinum and diamond
wide band.
52
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
M
wedding planner
b y
H E D D A
S C H U P A K
ringing in the trends
Modern Designs
In the latter half of the 20th century, the Tiffany-style solitaire setting
became the standard for American engagement rings, and has remained
so until recently. It is still hugely popular, but more and more women
are entranced with vintage-style milgrain work, halo settings, cushion
cut diamonds, and micro-pavé (oddly enough, this vintage-inspired
trend was made possible only with the very modern development of
CAD-CAM technology).
The round brilliant still remains the numberone diamond shape, but more and more brides
are choosing cushion, Asscher, oval, princess,
radiant, and other special cuts.
Trio of solitaire rings by
Michael Bondanza.
Precision Set double
halo ring.
2.89ct Natural fancy
intense radiant cut
yellow diamond set in a
platinum and diamond
ring by Jack Kelege.
Today the engagement ring that most couples want to buy is
the one that best reflects their personal, unique style. Personalization and customization are common — indeed, almost standard. Some couples still abide by the more traditional method
of having the groom select a ring and present it to the bride,
but more often, the couple chooses it together.
54
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
wedding planner
b y
W
H E D D A
S C H U P A K
don’t forget the band
Wedding band trends
For many couples, the rush of excitement about getting engaged quickly morphs
into the hectic details of planning a wedding. So much so that the most lasting sym-
7 square silk fit band.
bol of the marriage — the wedding band — is left as an afterthought. But wedding
bands, too, have their design trends. There is always the classic plain gold or platinum
band, but more and more couples view the wedding ring as a style statement as well
Petit twist band
as an outward sign of their commitment, especially women who don’t wear their
engagement rings.
Amanda Gizzi points to split-shank bands as a popular trend. This is a style that
Kelege swirl band.
allows the engagement ring to fit in the middle, but it can be worn alone, which
looks like an open, airy design. Severine Ferrari says the leading trends for wedding
rings are intricate designs for the woman’s band, and black diamonds and texture for
Black diamond crusted white
gold band by Bez Ambar.
the men’s band. Alternative metals such as tungsten and titanium are also popular for
men’s bands, because of their modern high-tech appeal and their relative indestructibility. But again, remember those Romans: no reason a guy can’t also have
two wedding bands: his gold or platinum ring for the ceremony
and to wear for dress, and the second contemporary metal
band to wear for sports.
And, of course, multiple bands give women fashion
options. “Stacking bands let women achieve a balanced
aesthetic. One band on top of the engagement ring balances the ring on the bottom,” says Gizzi. “Some women
continue to stack on bands after the ‘I do.’”
Yellow and rose gold bands
with black diamond accents
by Bez Ambar.
Christian Bauer wedding bands
in platinum, gold, or palladium.
Wedding bands by Steven Kretchmer
Designs in palladium with diamonds.
56
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
H A N D C R A F T E D 1 8 K A N D P L AT I N U M
W W W. P R E C I S I O N S E T. C O M
MADE IN AMERICA
T
wedding planner
b y
H E D D A
S C H U P A K
more than just the ring
Bridal jewelry doesn’t end with the engagement ring or
wedding ring. There’s a wedding gown that needs the right
accessories, and what better choice than something the
bride (and her attendants) can really wear again?
Wedding dress styles range from ornate to simple, but Amanda Gizzi, director of the
Jewelry Information Center, says texture is a top trend. Lace or bejeweled embellishments on
the bodice of the dress make earrings a wonderful way to pull the look together. We suggest
diamond or pearl as classic choices, and of course blue gemstones such as sapphire, aquamarine or blue topaz continue to be a favorite for brides to incorporate her “something blue.”
Hair jewels such as brooches or hairpins are also of the moment. Fashion-forward brides are also drawn to hand ornaments such as bracelet rings (a ring and bracelet connected by a chain), says Gizzi.
Wedding day jewelry is a beautiful gift idea for the groom
to give his bride, or, as Kate Middleton’s parents did for
Kwiat diamond chain and
double tear drop diamond
necklace.
her, the bride’s parents to give their daughter. Long after
the dress is boxed up and put away and the video is on
the shelf, the jewelry is something she can wear over and
over and always remember that special day.
Kwiat diamond earrings are a
perfect gift for the mother of
the bride or groom.
Opal earrings by Penny
Preville. 4325
Opal and diamond
pendant by Penny
Preville. $4575
Lace earrings by Penny
Preville. $4995
58
]
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
T
dress
T
wedding planner
b y
K .
O N G
the
Is shopping for a wedding dress stressing you out?
Then you may be doing it all wrong. Pick up helpful
shopping cues and style advice from the go-to designer
of the Duchess of Cambridge.
Jenny Packham’s Dress Shopping Tips
In an engaging feature at InStyle.com, Jenny Packham, a British designer who
recently celebrated 25 years of creating bridal gowns and ready-to-wear clothes,
shares tips for brides looking for the perfect wedding dress.
Packham suggests not worrying too much about your wedding dress. After all, the
whole wedding planning part alone is already an overwhelming ordeal. The part where
you choose your wedding dress should be a fun, laid-back activity to be ticked off from
your wedding itinerary.
Just be natural, she advises. According to Packham, it is never a good idea to turn
yourself into somebody else. If you are not comfortable wearing a sultry head-totoe beading-and-lace dress, for example, then go for a wedding dress with a simple
and clean design. Packham also says that these days, she has been designing many
1920s-style slim-line-silhouette wedding dresses. This is a calculated move away
from the popular big dresses with a strapless bodice. She suggests considering a
slim-line dress.
She appeals for brides to avoid worrying whether their dress will look
dated in a few years. Packham recommends that brides should “live in the
moment,” because their wedding dresses — whether they like it or not —
will eventually become dated. So, if one of your worries is whether your
dress will look dated in a few years, then you may be missing out on a
rare opportunity to find something that suits you and your personality
to a tee. It is a good idea to simply choose a gorgeous dress that
reflects your current personal style and just enjoy your special day.
F R E D R I C
H .
R U B E L
M A G A Z I N E
[ 59