Focus: Hair care

Transcription

Focus: Hair care

COS1306_01_Titel_GB_COS1306_01_Titel_GB 22.05.13 14:01 Seite 1
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E 51 2 8 0
COSMETICS
S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y
MARKETING
Product development
Multifunctional antiageing formulations
for the hair
Ingredients
Actives
for targeted
hair care
Legislation
The effects of the new
EU Cosmetics regulation
clearly explained
Packaging
Wood as a
material for unusual
packaging solutions
VIP of the Month
Ulrike Marx and
Torsten Krohn
present some
effective formulations for appealing
home spa applications
Focus: Hair care
6 / 2 013
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EDITORIAL
Always
something
new …
Yes! That is the motto of our industry. But just having
”Always something new” doesn’t do the job. At the
end of the day it is a question of attracting a large
number of consumers who already have what they really need in terms of fascinating products. To lift oneself, as a manufacturer, from this surfeit of new offerings, creativity is called for, and of course a clearly
structured innovations management system.
Sometimes a glance around the market is enough to
see new ideas. This may be the case if you are aware
of which products are emerging as real winners in
other parts of the world. For those readers interested
in international trends, and who want to know which
Downloads
Download-services at
www.cossma.com/download
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Your access codes for June:
User name: cossma6
Password: hair
Even faster access to the additional information can be accessed via our
QR codes and our e-paper. The e-paper, which will run on all tablet PCs,
takes you to a direct link for TV clips, downloads, book reviews and more.
ideas could do well, and continue to do well, in our
market, the Imogen Matthews article about this year’s
marketing trends presentations during the In-Cosmetics in Paris should prove of interest. She concisely
summarises the latest trends in her contribution, starting on page 18. And on this theme, the interview I conducted with niche market representatives Katrin
Steinbach of Cosnova and Rebecca Hopkins of Balance Me, will be of serious interest. It became clear
that there are always new niches that the competition
has not yet discovered or acted on. Although a newcomer has some serious hurdles to overcome there is
always, in the mature and heavily subscribed European market, something happening.
Do you also a have a totally new niche brand
and would like to share your experiences with our
readers? Then we would be pleased to tell them
about your brand in COSSMA, and the way it has
evolved. I would be pleased to hear from you at
angelika.meiss@health-and-beauty.com.
Your story will be particularly exciting if it falls within
the definition of innovation, as stated by Wolfgang
Twardawa, consultant at GfK, on page 28: ”An innovation is an improved solution to a relevant problem”.
This principle should be taken into account with all new
products. How important innovation is for the consumer is
seen in the findings of a GfK survey. A third of all households are still looking for more, or even more, innovations.
There is a keen desire for performance and quality, as
expressed by 75 percent of those questioned. For 32 percent of those questioned more convenience is the main issue and 22 percent are looking for more innovation in the
area of health and wellness.
And on the subject of wellness ... home spa products are
gaining rapidly in popularity. But how can we be sure that
their texture really attracts the consumer? One answer is
offered by Ulrike Marx and Torsten Krohn of Zschimmer &
Schwarz, starting on page 24.
And what do you think about wood as a material for cosmetics packaging? Did you never seriously consider it?
Our interview with Jaume Ordeig of Technotraf, starting
on page 34, makes clear the potential of wood in the cosmetics business.
I hope you enjoy this issue,
yours
Angelika Meiss
Senior editor, COSSMA
Follow us on
www.linkedin.com/in/cossma
www.twitter.com/cossmamagazine
www.facebook.com/cossmamagazin
www.youtube.de/cossmatv
COSSMA 6 I 2013
3
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Contents
3
Editorial
쮿
NEWS
8
Markets + Profiles
쮿
FOCUS
Hair care
10
a Melanie Waecker, Dr. Jochen Klock, DSM:
Solutions for ageless-looking hair
18 I Global trends
that will impact on
the cosmetics market
of tomorrow
12
14
15
a Julijana Ivosevic-Zaper, Impag:
Hair care precisely targeted
Vivienne Rudd, Mintel: International launches
Star of the Month:
Hair colouring made easy
쮿
18
MARKETING
Imogen Matthews, In-Cosmetics:
Marketing Trends Presentations –
Multi-faceted insights into the latest global trends
24 I
Exciting formulation concepts and
textures for home
spa application
24
a Ulrike Marx, Torsten Krohn,
Zschimmer & Schwarz:
A touch of paradise at home
26
Elfriede Dambacher, Naturkosmetik Konzepte:
28
Soon there may be no rose cream
Wolfgang Twardawa, GfK: How to avoid flops
쮿
PRODUCTION
30
a Interview with Dr. Gerd Mildau, CVUA,
Birgit Huber, IKW:
Safety, responsibility, animal tests, and more
32
Cosmetic Business 2013:
Lots of suppliers and plenty of products
30 I Dr. Gerd Mildau
of the CVUA and
Birgit Huber of IKW
talk about the new
cosmetics directive
34 I Wood as a
packaging material for
cosmetics?
33
34
Packaging News
a Interview with Jaume Ordeig, Technotraf:
Wooden packaging? Why not?
36
New Ingredients
쮿
SERVICES
6
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
48
48
49
50
50
Download List
Essential Oils: Price list
Formulations: Sun care
Events Diary
Events
Books
International B2B Exchange
Suppliers‘ Guide
Company Index
Advertisers‘ Index
Masthead Page
Trend statement by Maria Castan, Wella
Preview
a Leading articles
Front cover picture: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com
COS1306_DSM_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 23.05.13 07:42 Seite 1
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Revealing the
Power of Beauty
DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd.
P.O. Box 2676, 4002 Basel
Switzerland
Phone: +41 61 815 7777
Fax:
+41 61 815 7860
Email: info.pc-emea@dsm.com
At DSM we believe that beauty enriches people’s lives.
www.dsm.com/personal-care
Together with you we want to create a brighter, more beautiful world for people
today and generations to come.
To reveal beauty’s true power we continually challenge ourselves to understand
in depth your needs, your brands and people’s beauty aspirations worldwide.
With foresight, imagination and a deeply rooted sense of beauty we connect and
leverage our bright science in Skin, Sun and Hair Care to craft transformational
beauty care ingredients and concepts that are loved.
COS1306_06_Download_GB 22.05.13 14:03 Seite 6
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SERVICES
DOWNLOAD
Free Downloads for Subscribers
...
. . . explains why Technotraf, a specialist for wood in
packaging, is a great addition to the Quadpack group
of companies.
COSSMA Download-Tip
Parabens, phthalates: Safe in cosmetics?
Some scientists have suggested that chemicals, including those used in cosmetics, may be disrupting human endocrine systems such as hormones secreted
by the ovaries, testes, and thyroid. Human exposure to
these substances may produce male infertility,cancers
and other adverse reproductive effects. Dr. Gerhard Nohynek, ex-L’Oréal, however,
questions the endocrine disrupting activities of chemicals
in cosmetics. COSSMA subscribers can download further
background information.
photo: Kubais/Shutterstock.com
Click through our Web TV clips:
www.cossma.com/tv
International expert groups:
”Parabens are safe”
Top-Downloads for June
...
… points out in which areas of colour cosmetics packaging
the innovation process was most dynamic.
• Background:
Opinion on fragrance allergens
in cosmetic products
• Literature References:
photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotalia.de
EU Cosmetics Regulation –
what is changing?
• Product Information:
ECHINACELL™ and other
stem-cell actives (Croda)
...
… talks about the company’s recent launches, many of
which are very suitable for natural cosmetics.
• Formulation:
Natural Moisturizing Face Care
for Sensitive Skin (CLR)
Downloads
...
. . . explains the different aspects of the design relaunch for
the Beiersdorf brand „Nivea“.
6
COSSMA 6 I 2013
Additional information at
or you can just scan
the QR code!
Your access codes
for June:
User name: cossma6
Password: hair
Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA
web site we post lots of additional information
elated to the topics covered in the magazine.
You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items
to extend your knowledge and understanding:
more information on the ingredients and
finished products that we cover, market data and
statistics, supplier listings, literature references,
scientific articles, product formulations and useful
base formulations. Take a look right now, at
COS1306_ANZ_Seite_7_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 04.06.13 14:57 Seite 1
Advertisement
Merck at In-Cosmetics: Meet the Stars
Tanning and lightening solutions to reveal healty, radiant skin:
The “Milk and Chocolate kit”
Merck’s “Milk or Chocolate” kit can be formulated to address demand for either
tanning or lightening while tackling the common problems of any skin type: oily,
acne-prone or sensitive. In colder regions, it’s perfectly formulated to combat the
dry dullness caused by harsh winter conditions. Other active ingredients work
against skin irritations or dark spots caused by environmental factors. This innovative kit can support stressed skin through effective cleansing and complexion
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also a great way to prepare skin for more exposure to the elements. Formulation
examples contain UV protection, moisturizers, anti-inflammatory agents and antiacne ingredients. The kit could include: An all-over peeling to prepare the skin
on a large scale, two multipurpose products for either tanning and whitening as
well as a tanning product for beautiful legs.
This year’s highlights presented by Merck during in-cosmetics in Paris were
three new pigments: Colorona SynBerry Pink is a colour-intensive, fuchsia
red pearl-luster pigment. It is part of the “Fall in Love with Red” initiative.
Whereas Ronastar Diamond Black is a pigment expressing deep, virtually
black color and an exceptional luster, Ronastar Copper Jewel is a vibrant,
copper-coloured effect pigment that is characterized by brilliant luster and
good coverage. Merck also presented its 2014 Cosmetic Actives Trend
Forecast, supplementing the company’s Color Trend Forecast. Two new
studies have not only confirmed the efficacy of RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5
and RonaCare® Isoquercetin, but also revealed more details on how these
active ingredients work their magic. New data is also available for
RonaCare® AP and its role in acne prevention.
Dr. Matthias Lergenmüller, Senior Director Technology Application Network
PM-P at Merck KGaA Darmstadt presents the new launches and concepts
presented during In-Cosmetics in Paris in his Web-TV interview with COSSMA
TV. To learn more on the latest innovations, check the Web-TV clip at
www.cossma.com/merck
Further information: www.merck4cosmetics.com
Ready to unwrap some new possibilities for you markets?
To find out more about these products, write to us at
cosmagazine@merckgroup.com
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More fun in the sun: The “Happy Sunshine” kit
Men, women and children generally have different wants and needs when it
comes to sun protection. Children tend to lose track of time when they’re out
in the sun. Men want convenient products that are quick and easy to apply.
And women invest a lot of time in getting the perfect tan. Whatever the situation,
Merck can consult on formulations that hit the spot – all contained in the
newly developed “Happy Sunshine” kit, including Safe Sun Care, Universal
Sun Defense, Sprayable Sun Delight, and Carefree Sun Pleasure.
Merck IR 3535: Nature Inspired Insect Repellent
Insect repellents are very important for all of us: Merck developed fascinating
formulations to make an ideal outdoor kit for both, humans and animals using
the Insect Repellent 3535 (IR3535®, Ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate).
Four formulations are designed to protect you and your animals
Horse Shelter – an Insect repellent spray for animals
Enjoy Freedom –an Insect repellent lotion for rider and horse
Easy Rider – an Sun & insect protection
Autumn Magic – a Powerful moisturizing & oxidative protection
The naturally occurring amino acid ß-alanine was used as basic module in
IR3535®. More than 30 years of investigations and use proved that the modifications done for IR3535® provided a skin friendly substance of high safety.
In addition, IR3535® even controls insects via a mode of action which do not
affect the insect. These positive attributes led to the use of IR3535® in many
products developed specifically for children.
To learn more, check www.ir3535.com
COS1306_08_People_GB_COS0701_08_News_D 04.06.13 14:57 Seite 8
NEWS MARKETS + PROFILES
District Two: Susanne Himmelsbach
Kal’Idées:
Prof. Dr. Karl Lintner
People
District Two Cosmetics
Distribution I Susanne Himmelsbach, who was previously in
marketing with the Estée Lauder
Companies and most recently
worked at Primavera Naturkosmetik, has taken over as general
manager at the niche distribution
company District Two who market, for instance, Korres Natural
Skincare. In the company’s
tenth year the retail products
portfolio will be expanded and
a newly installed sales and customer service team, as well as
a new finance team, will be
established.
Kal’Idées I Prof. Dr. Karl Lintner was recently awarded the InCosmetics Lifetime Achievement
award in the competition against
the two other finalists, Dr. Klaus
Stanzl from Symrise and Dene
Godfrey from Azelis. 1,200 people cast their votes for this award
honouring outstanding individuals whose professional accomplishments have made a significant and lasting impact on the
cosmetics industry. Lintner,
known in the industry for his contribution to work on skin biochemistry, started his career researching biological peptides at
the Nuclear Research Centre in
Saclay, France and after ten
La Roche-Posay:
René Baaring
years moved on to positions at
leading companies including
Henkel and Sederma, where he
was CEO for ten years. He has
filed several dozen patents, published numerous articles on cosmetics ingredients. He is currently an independent consultant
and president of Kal’Idées, as
well as editor-in-chief of the International Journal of Cosmetic
Science. He received the Maison-de-Navarre Medal Award
from the SCC (US) in 2012.
La Roche-Posay
Deutschland I René Baaring
(40), originally from Denmark,
has taken over from Frédéric
Parlux:
Donald J. Loftus
Mohr as general manager of
La Roche-Posay and Sanoflore
in Germany.
Parlux I Donald J. Loftus has
been appointed President of Parlux and Executive Vice President
of Perfumania. Most recently
Loftus for more than ten years
held the position of North American President and CEO of P&G
Prestige. Prior to that, he worked
for Cosmopolitan Cosmetics,
Escada Beauté, YSL Beauté,
and also served as Divisional
Vice President at May Department Stores. Loftus is a former
Chairman of the Board for the
Fragrance Foundation.
Advertisement
KRÜSS launches new solution for optical
foam structure analysis
Optical structure testing of liquid foams with a the new development from KRÜSS
Expansion of a modular instrument for foam analysis
For stable and metastable foams in food, cosmetic and cleaning products
KRÜSS GmbH presented a new module for the
DFA100 Dynamic Foam Analyzer intended for the
optical testing of fluid foam structures at the
European Coatings Show 2013 in Nuremberg.
The instrument uses image analysis to determine
the number, size and size distribution of the bubbles of a foam generated under control in the
instrument. The foam structure module features
a height-adjustable camera with rapid image
sequence for measuring the structural changes
over time, thus making the inner destabilisation
of the foam visible long before it actually decays.
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Torben Schörck, head of development at KRÜSS, sees key applications for this new
development in the food, cosmetics and cleaning agent industries, where the tactile
properties linked with bubble structure play a role in addition to foam stability.
“In particular customers from the brewery branch already showed an interest during
the preliminary stages of the development. We are expecting further positive response
from our upcoming trade fair appearances”, explains Schörck. Presentations at the
CESIO in Barcelona and SEPAWA in Fulda are among those planned for 2013.
The company is well-established on the market for tensiometers and contact angle measurement instruments. In 2010 it opened a
new product segment with the launch of its
foam analysis instrument DFA100. Initially this
modular instrument focussed on measuring
the decay of instable foams. A component for
measuring liquid content presented in 2012
plus the new optical module are both geared
towards stable and metastable foams.
KRÜSS GmbH
Borsteler Chaussee 85-99a | 22453 Hamburg
Tel. +49 40 514401-0 | info@kruss.de | www.kruss.de
Paul Kaders GmbH
Eschelsweg 27 – 22767 Hamburg
Telefon: + 49-40-380 308-0
Telefax: + 49-40-380 308-27
E-Mail: paul@kaders.de
Seit 1910: Ihre Experten mit dem Ohr zur Welt
COS1306_08_People_GB_COS0701_08_News_D 22.05.13 14:04 Seite 9
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Latest awards
for ingredients
and finished
products
BSB Cosmetic I On April 17th, 2013, the BSB innovation
prizes, established in 2003 by Dr. Jan-H. Riedel, were awarded
in Paris.
First prize in the finished products category went to Theramed
Pro Electric Active Clean from Henkel, followed by Kneipps
Tiefenentspannung Gesundheitsbad. Joint third prize went
to Poudre Précieuse from Irati International and Oriflame’s
Hyper Stretch Mascara.
Winners in the most innovative ingredients category for natural
cosmetics were Actiporin E 8G from Codif followed by
Sym 3D from Symrise in second place. Joint third prize went to
Tego Stemlastin 1012 from Evonik and Celldeto X from Silab.
The winner in the category of the most innovative ingredient
concept for functional/recipients was Lamesoft OD from
BASF. SymBronze from Symrise took second place and
Merck’s Ronastar Diamand Black took third place.
In the natural products/ingredients category three first prizes
were awarded: SymFit nat 1750 from Symrise, Defensil Plus
from Rahn and Melavoid from Provital.
First place in the natural products/finished products category
went to Aua Gel from Kneipp. Second place was taken by
Vetia Floris from Medena for Skin Concept and third place
went to Phytocode Red Out from Tonesh.
The judging panel included Bettina Jackwerth, BASF, Angelika
Meiss, Cossma, Dr. Armin Wadle, Henkel, Dr. Reinhold Brunke,
ICADA, Dr. Rainer Wohlfart, Kneipp, Dr. Jörg Oliver Schmitz,
Mani, Dr. Bernhard Irrgang, Mibelle Cosmetics, Beate Boutwell,
Oriflame, Dr. Daniel Stangl, La Prairie, Birgit Haemel, Protec
Ingredia, Dr. Alfred Markowetz, P&G, Dr. Joachim Degwert, SIT,
Dr. Marielle le Maire, Symrise France und Dr. Jürgen Delhey,
Trichema.
INSPIRED BY NATURE
Created for natural cosmetics
ECOCERT COMPLIANT
HYDREÏS
photo: Angelika Meiss
3 in 1 active ingredient
The prizewinners with their trophies
SYNER-GX
Soft-touch thickener
Repair effect
Restructuring
Viscosity accelerator
Stabilizes formulations
Moisturizing
Clinically tested
With a silky feel to the skin
100% natural and botanical
Distributed by
IMPAG Import GmbH
Fritz-Remy-Straße 25
D-63071 Offenbach am Main
Tel.: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 0
Fax: +49 (0) 69 850 008 - 90
E-Mail: kosmetik@impag.de
Web: www.impag.de
IMPAG Group Country Offices
Switzerland/Zurich – www.impag.ch
Germany/Offenbach – www.impag.de
France/Nancy – www.impag.fr
Poland/Warsaw – www.impag.pl
COS1306_10_DSM_GB_COS1306_10_DSM_GB 22.05.13 14:04 Seite 10
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FOCUS: HAIR CARE INGREDIENTS
Solutions for
ageless-looking hair
photos: DSM
Driven by the demographics, and by increasing amounts of money to
spend, more and more people are seeking sophisticated products to
reset the clock for their hair – and to underline an elegant lifestyle.
With the on-going market segmentation in hair care the anti-ageing
category will undoubtedly grow and achieve global relevance within
the next few years. As a result of market research and a trend
analysis, and in response to increasingly individualistic hair care
needs DSM has developed three transformational concepts in the
form of multifunctional anti-ageing formulations combining Tilamar
polymers with specific actives from a broad portfolio.
Multifunctional products to reset the
clock for hair
P
eople worldwide are looking for
tailored premium products with
multiple benefits bringing back
youth to their hair, as ageless and
beautiful looking hair is intimately
connected to self-confidence. And
when your hair looks good, you feel
good. With time, when hair becomes
more mature, consumers look for
ultimate glow, moisture, smooth feel
and deeply strengthened hair with a
healthy look.
Ageing hair is basically independent of the different natural hair textures such as fine, medium, coarse and
afro, as well as from different hair
shapes such as straight, wavy, curly
and frizzy.
Is your hair ageing you? – The
science behind the problem
Hair ageing comprises 2 main known
types – the chronological and hormonal
one. Chronological ageing is related to
the length of hair. The mid-length to
ends (versus new growth) has endured
additional years of mechanical, environmental and chemical distress.
Hormonal ageing in women as a
result of physiological changes that
women experience as they get older
leads to multiple signs of ageing hair.
Hair root activity slows down, which also affects the hair pigmentation and
results in greying. At the same time the
decreasing amount of hair lipids leads
to overall changes in the hair texture.
The hair’s feel becomes roughened,
coarse and dry and hair looks dull, brittle and unkempt, with the tips being
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User name: cossma6
Password: hair
particularly affected. According to scientific findings, the hair diameter continuously decreases by about 0.5% per
year and starts already at the age of
around 30. Overall, with age hair becomes thinner and weaker and is more
prone to damage. Chemical distress
such as hair colouring, for example,
makes it even worse. 50% of the women
at some point in time suff – the most
dramatic effect of ageing hair.
The life cycle of hair
Is ageing hair a reality that we
must all come to terms with?
Three new ready-to-use formulations offer multifunctional
solutions
10
COSSMA 6I 2013
At the age of 20 the hair is at the
peak of thickness and strength, with
ample sebum and shine. In the 30s, the
external damage incurred during one’s
20s becomes visible, and a slight decline in sebum can cause hair to lose its
natural lustre. In the 40s, the diameter
of the hair shaft begins to shrink, leading hair to become thinner and more
fragile; a decline in melanin levels can
lead to grey hair. In their 50s most
women turn grey due to a steep decline
in melanin; follicles continue to shrink
and leave hair even thinner. At the age
COS1306_10_DSM_GB_COS1306_10_DSM_GB 22.05.13 14:05 Seite 11
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of about 60 nearly 40% of women will experience some degree of hair loss, mostly
around the crown; hair in this phase often
appears thin and lack lustre.
Thus, a hair care line designed for ageing hair has very specific requirements.
Such products need to provide hair glow
to make up for the loss in natural sebum Hair ageing due to chronological and hormonal
– but without weighing it down or leaving ageing hits everybody
it greasy. They need to be gentle on the
hair and strengthen it from the inside out.
They have to protect hair from environmental and chemical damage.
At some point in time ageing hair hits all of us and the new anti-ageing hair care formulations are suitable for all different kinds of hair.
Specific solutions counteracting the signs
of aged hair
DSM’s new hair care concept Experience the Supreme Solutions for
Ageless-Looking Hair, anticipates changing lifestyle trends. These insights are transformed into three ready-to-use formulations with multiple benefits: the shampoo Rejuvenate, the hair treatment Reset the
Time Therapy, and a leave-in spray, Fortify Throughout the Day. These
formulations combine the Tilamar polymers with specific unique
active complexes.
The Rejuvenate Shampoo with its nourishing texture and its replenishing fine and soft foam revitalizes mature hair and instantly
transforms hair to a moisturized feel and radiant look. The shampoo
for smooth feel and elegant look contains Tilamar Quat 2240, Tilamar
OP 40, Pepha-Ctive and Lipogard. Tilamar OP 40 provides a rich texture, whereas Tilamar Quat 2240 intensively conditions hair leaving
it feeling smoother and moisturised. The natural Pepha-Ctive from
algae energizes hair and Lipogard strengthens and protects the hair
follicles for a noticeable younger look.
Reset The Time Therapy, a mask in the form of a highly concentrated cream, for a weightless look, is designed to actively repair damaged hair. The treatment for deeply strengthened and thick hair contains Tilamar Quat 640, Panthenol, Phytantriol, Colhibin PF, Alpaflor
Edelweiss B and Lipogard. Tilamar Quat 640 conditioning properties
leave the hair feeling smoother and moisturised. The synergistic vitamins Panthenol and Phytantriol strengthen the hair. The natural rice
protein Colhibin repairs hair structure and leaves it thickened and reinforced with youth. With the power from high altitudes Alpaflor Edelweiss B protects hair from environmental damage and keeps it
healthy. For a noticeable younger look Lipogard strengthens and
protects the hair follicles.
Fortify Throughout the Day is a lightweight leave-in spray for
healthy hair and ultimate glow, reducing frizz while leaving the hair
with a soft touch and ultimate glow. It contains Tilamar Quat 640,
Argan Oil and Alpaflor Edelweiss B. Tilamar Quat 640 not only provides
intense conditioning benefits to the hair, it also reduces frizz and
leaves hair with a soft touch. The addition of Alpaflor Edelweiss B
protects hair from environmental damage. For an ultimate glow,
Argan Oil is added leaving hair feeling light and natural.
With these new anti-ageing concepts DSM maintains the power of
beautiful hair.
Additional information can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel
Melanie Waeckel, Regional Marketing Manager EMEA
Dr. Jochen Klock, Senior Global Marketing Manager
DSM, Basle, Switzerland
melanie.waeckel@dsm.com
jochen.klock@dsm.com
www.dsm.com
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FOCUS: HAIR CARE INGREDIENTS
Hair care …
photo: Jessmine, Shutterstock.com
… precisely targeted
Versatile actives
that help to avoid
those unwanted
“bad hair days”
To meet the various demands of hair care and styling, and to avoid those “bad
hair days”, Impag brings us here four carefully selected ingredients* that care
for, strengthen, style and pamper the hair.
G
lycoenergizer Hair from Cobiosa* is said to work on the
hair like a blast of energy. The
glycogen active ingredient, acquired
from the seas, supplies energy to the
hair follicles that are in a growth stage,
i.e. it satisfies the intense energy needs
during this active phase.
After 8 weeks this hair strengthening active exhibits an increased hair
thickness of 12.5 percent. As an active
for tired, dry and thin hair it promotes
hair growth, stimulates the cell division rate and reduces hair loss.
Trichomega, also from Cobiosa, is
said to avoid splitting and breaking of
the hair shaft. This 100 percent naturally and sustainably acquired active from
the Peruvian Inca nut is characterised
by its high content of polyunsaturated
omega 3, omega 6 and omega 9 fatty
acids. It regenerates the cuticular lipid
layer of brittle, dry or damaged hair
and ensures that the hair’s natural barrier is reinforced and so protects it
against breaking and splitting. The regenerated structure of the hair gives
the hair a glossy look.
The sustainably obtained and
Ecocert conforming Radiancyl* from
Cobiosa, an extract from the maca
roots similar to the roots of the radishes found in the high mountains of Peru
and Bolivia, imparts a shine to hair.
The plant extract is particularly rich in
amino acids, vitamins, minerals and
nutrients that are of essential importance for various cellular functions.
Thanks to its nutritional properties
it projects a radiant effect, especially in
tired and dull hair. In addition it stimulates the cell division of the hair matrix
cells and leads to an increase in hair
thickness of up to 17 percent after 24
treatments.
Glossyliance from Soliance, also
sustainably obtained** and conform
to Ecocert standard, increases hair
gloss and silkiness by up to 95 percent
(in vivo study with 80 volunteers). The
active substance works directly on the
structure of the hair and is produced by
a mixture of fermentation and subsequent maceration. Components include extracts from sugar cane and an
additive of alphahydroxy acids
This wide selection of active ingredients for different hair care requirements promotes hair growth, avoids
splitting or breaking, and gives the hair
totally natural gloss and silkiness.
* Distributed by Impag in Germany, Austria and
Switzerland
** Apolpawa fair trade
Dipl.-Biologist Julijana IvosevicZaper, Product Manager Active
Ingredients & Hair Care, Impag
Offenbach, Germany
julijana.ivosevic-zaper@impag.de
www.impag.de
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photos: Mintel
FOCUS: HAIR CARE PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Kerastase’s anti-hairloss Programme features
a new targeting applicator and a pack
with 20 vials plus shampoo
Internationale
launches
This month Vivienne Rudd, head of Beauty and Personal Care
Insight at Mintel, presents a selection of innovative hair care
products.
K
Suuen’s wine-mimicking packaging is
used to reinforce a
luxury positioning
erastase Spécifique Programme
Anti-Chute Complet (Complete
The ultra-light formulation of
Schwarzkopf’s styling oil spray
contains argan oil essence
Jean-Claude Biguine’s
repairing shampoo is targeted
at demanding hair
Anti-Hairloss Programme) is a
treatment designed for thinning hair. It
contains Aminexil, a molecule that
fights collagen stiffening, extends hair
life, and helps maintain the density of
thinning hair, Gluco-Lipid (GL), a
patented association of energising glucose, and a protective lipid that helps
nourish the hair from root to tip for improved hair fibre strength, plus madecassoside, a sugar containing complex
with soothing effects. It features a new
targeting applicator, retails in a pack
with 20 x 6 ml bottle vials and includes
a free 250ml Bain Stimuliste GL Shampooing Énergisant (Energising Shampoo). It is recommended to follow a
minimum of two treatments per year
with each treatment to last for at least
6 to 8 weeks and using one dose per
day or at least 3 doses per week.
Suuen Entertainment 22 Oriental
Smooth Uber is said to offer moisture,
Microbröö’s shampoo contains
vitamin, protein and mineralenriched barley and hops
Vidal Sassoon’s moisturizing
shampoo is claimed to
quench hair’s thirst
Kim Robinson’s angelica
enriched treatment to repair
the hair from the roots
14
COSSMA 6 I 2013
shine and facilitate growth from root to
tip, while lightly perfuming the hair. It
contains natural and medical oriental
extracts with anthocyanin rich and fermented ingredients and a protein complex containing keratin, silk protein,
and amino acids for shiny hair. The norinse product, part of a 3-step special
care system, is suitable for sensitive
scalp and hair. The primary packaging
is shaped to resemble a wine glass with
a thin stem. In the same range Suuen
Entertainment Career 22 Scalp Shampoo continues the theme using a
bottle that mimics a wine bottle. As
European types of wine are considered
to be a luxury item in Asia, this packaging is used to reinforce a luxury positioning.
Schwarzkopf got2b Öl-la-la Styling
Öl-Spray (Styling Oil Spray) features an
ultra-light formula with argan oil
essence to control frizz, add shine, and
give suppleness for a detangled finish
without weighing hair down. The range
also includes Styling Öl (Styling Oil),
which, with its argan oil formulation, is
quickly absorbed, detangles unmanageable, frizzy hair and adds shine.
The Jean-Claude Biguine BB Cream
line is targeted at demanding hair. The
nutri-repairing shampoo in the range
is formulated with provitamin B5, and
is said to protect and reinforce the hair
fibre, leaving hair soft, shiny and easy
to style.
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Additional information can be found
at www.health-and-beauty.com/
qr00137
User name: cossma6
Password: hair
Microbröö Bröö Craft Beer Shampoo contains barley and hops, which
are enriched with vitamin B, proteins,
and minerals. This vegan product is
said to provide clean, fresh-smelling
hair with body and shine.
Perfected by experts, the Vidal Sassoon Pro Series VS Moisture Shampoo
is claimed to cleanse hair, quench the
hair’s thirst and seal in moisture,
whilst the rich moisturizing formula is
said to prevent dry, damaged-looking
hair.
Sen by Kim Robinson Moisture & Repair Treatment created with the stylist
Kim Robinson, is suitable for dry, damaged or weak hair. The product, enriched with angelica, helps repair the
hair from the roots, prevent split ends,
hydrate and nourish. It contains antioxidant-rich green tea and bamboo
extracts and an exclusive essential oil
scent.
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
see Internet box
Vivienne Rudd
Head of Beauty and Personal
Care Insight, Mintel,
London, UK
www.mintel.com
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Star
FOCUS: HAIR CARE
photo: Anna Subbotina, shutterstock.com
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
of the Month
Multi-use hair colorant dispenser
Why does L‘Oréal Paris describe Préférence Mousse Absolue as a
new generation of hair colorant? For home hair colouring it is always
a question of making the process as easy as possible. The results
of several years of research has now emerged as a product with an
intuitive application system that really makes it user-friendly. The
colour, ready for immediate use, is applied onto the hair at the push
of a button, in a single step, and can be used again as required.
O
ne requirement of hair colorant
systems has always been the
mixing of the different components, but in this case the finished fine
pigment colour formulation and the
highly effective developer are mixed
right on the hair at the push of a button. The components of the formula-
tion are so precisely dosed that the
resultant colour is reliably consistent
at each use.
Ready for immediate use
Firstly the gold-coloured flacon,
which contains an ideal mix of pigments and developer, is shaken well
SEVERA Line
photo: L’Oréal
Hair colouring
made easy
Hair colorant with no
intricate mixing or
bothersome liquids
and dispensed onto the hair. The
creamy texture that develops after application is massaged into the hair and
after the appropriate period of time the
colorant is rinsed out and a conditioner applied.
The standard pack is enough for two
full-head applications on short hair or
a supplementary application on mediAM
um length hair.
Préférence Mousse Absolue has been on sale since
March 2013 in 12 shades at about 12 Euros per pack.
www.loreal-paris.com
We have extended our SEVERA Line.
The new components will be presented at
COSMETIC BUSINESS
MOC MUNICH
13 – 14 JUNE 2013
Hall 2 | Booth C21/25
MAKE-UP PARIS
20 – 21 June 2013
Booth 308
200 ml + 100 ml SEVERA Jar
SKIN CARE PACKAGING
DECORATIVE COSMETIC PACKAGING
FULL SERVICE PRODUCTS
HAND & NAIL CARE PROFESSIONAL
BRANDS & PRIVATE LABEL
innovative
Cosmetic
GmbH
bomo trendline
innovative Cosmetic GmbH
D-78664 Eschbronn
Fon +49 (0)7403 92246-0
www.bomo-trendline.de
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Add more life to shampoo with Lamesoft® Care
Our micronized lipids reduce hair breakage and attract envious looks —
and not just in America. Lamesoft® Care — another Care Creations
product inspired by life.
carecreations.basf.com
Finding
Finding derived
derived from
from a
a representative
representative TNS
TNS market
market survey.
survey.
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MARKETING EVENTS
In-Cosmetics 2013: Marketing Trends Presentations
The latest global trends
N
ikola Matic from Kline & Company focused on the growing
global demand for cosmetic
ingredients within the personal
care industry – a business valued at
$ 300 bn. He maintained that an annual growth rate of 4.5% was better than
other businesses at the current time.
“The industry is driven by demographics and anti-ageing products, which is
a key growth engine,” he said, pointing
out that skin care at 29% is the largest
sector, with anti-ageing products
accounting for 50% of sales.
According to Kline, the global personal care ingredients market is valued
at between $ 14 bn and $ 18b n, with
the speciality market showing moderate to high average growth. Globally,
the picture is changing as Europe and
the US, representing the bulk of sales,
are falling behind Japan, China, SE
Asia and India in terms of growth.
However, most of the top suppliers in
these markets are multinationals, such
as BASF and Croda. Only when we look
to the top 15 do we see more regional
suppliers. For example, in China, BASF
has around a 25% share.
Surfactants account for 31% of volume sales of specific ingredients, followed by conditioning polymers and
emollients. In terms of product opportunities, Matic highlighted UV absorbers as the fastest growth category,
increasing 5% by volume year on year.
Antimicrobials are also growing above
average, reflecting the move away from
parabens. “The ingredients market isn’t
really very dynamic, even for those ma-
18
COSSMA 6 I 2013
photo: Frank Wasserführer, Shutterstock.com
This year’s marketing trends presentations
covering the latest trends and insights
affecting the global cosmetics and
toiletries markets included global beauty
trends from ingredients to finished
products, including products from the Far
East, make-up trends and mood cosmetics,
the role of water, e-commerce and the
ageing population, as well as niche brand
interviews conducted by COSSMA editor
Angelika Meiss.
The potential for marine ingredients is largely untapped
terials highlighted, and where there
are decreases, such as in silicones,
they are not particularly significant.”
Irina Barbalova from Euromonitor
showed how the global beauty industry
has achieved the pre-recession levels
of 2007, despite cautious consumer
spending. Italy has joined Spain, Portugal and Greece, all of which are in decline, and even China slowed down in
2012. Although the mass market dominates at $ 16 bn, the premium sector
has powered ahead and is worth $ 4 bn,
with strong revenues in the US, China,
Brazil and Saudi Arabia. The resurgence in premium sales since the 2009
dip has been spectacular. Overall, skin
care has shown the highest absolute
growth, followed by hair care and
colour cosmetics, with nail polish the
star and growing at 13% year on year.
In terms of consumer trends, Barbalova pinpointed health-oriented features proving popular, rather than
function. Accessible luxury is another
trend with fashion houses moving into
Downloads
User name: cossma6
Password: hair
beauty. At-home treatments that replicate out-of-home experiences are
important, as is the trend towards customising products to create an individual experience. In hair care, conditioning has performed well in 2012, with a
multi-faceted approach by brands offering pre-treatments, masks, serums
and shine boosters. “Hair care brands
are adopting a similar approach to
skin, and hair care is catching up with
skin care, especially in the US, where
health-oriented lines are strong,” observed Barbalova.
Looking forward, Barbalova expected China and Brazil to be the powerhouses of beauty. Asia Pacific, largely
China, will be the largest contributor to
premium beauty by 2016, at $ 6 bn. By
2017, Latin America will replace North
America as the third largest market. By
contrast, there will be an $ 800 m loss
from the Eurozone, especially Spain,
Italy and Greece.
Make-up trends
and mood cosmetics
Drawing on data and insights from
TrendSight, Ramaa
Chipalkatti highlighted eight key subtrends that are important for make-up.
Efficient & Effective reflects a desire for
high performance, yet economically
priced products. “Fifty percent of globDatamonitor’s
www.cossma.com
Wir fördern Werte.
al consumers rely on products and services that help them save time
and two thirds say they are too busy to look after their appearance,”
said Chipalkatti. BB Creams, CC Creams and the latest DD Creams –
daily defence – fit this trend. Chipalkatti believes brands will continue on through the alphabet.
Product innovation is the second key trend, with examples of
brands such as Sephora’s double-ended eye liner and mascara.
“Ninety five percent of 18 to 64 year old women carry over 6-7 products in their handbags, commented Chipalkatti, who sees the potential for beauty brands to minimize this. Other trends include products
for vitality and balance, that enhance physical and emotional wellbeing. Seven out of ten make-up shoppers also buy energy/sports drinks
and 67% of 18 to 45 year old adults don’t feel full of energy for much
of the time,” she said. This trend paves the way for more mood cosmetics, such as Physician’s Benefit Happiness Boost, designed to uplift moods.
According to Euromonitor’s Michaela Peck mood cosmetics fits in
with the well-being trend and desire to take a more holistic approach
to beauty. “Beauty is a distinct pillar in wellbeing,” she pointed out,
referring to neurocosmetics designed to mimic the effect of endorphins. Her presentation also showed new tools, including apps,
which could be used to optimise consumer’s moods. From these, consumers could build their own mood-based regimes.
The trend towards product specificity means that consumers are
increasingly drawn to customised and personalised products, not
“one-size-fits-all”. According to Euromonitor research, 77% of women
and 69% of men want to express themselves. “In the future, consumers will scrutinise their make-up products to see if they reflect
their mood,” said Peck. She sees mood cosmetics moving beyond
products such as lip glosses that change colour according to mood,
to mood-enhancing hair care with neurocosmetic benefits that work
on the brain. In addition, there will be more intelligent analytics
using emotion recognition technology to create pre-emptive rather
than reactive beauty solutions.
Beauty trends from Asia
Florence Bernardin, General Manager at Information & Inspiration,
specialises in discovering beauty trends in South East Asia. She has
identified key global trends which Asian companies are addressing,
including lack of time, the quest of wellbeing and proactive ageing. For
example, “no time” is a key problem in Japan, China and Korea, where
people work very long days and have long commuter journeys. As a result, there has been a trend for beauty devices which do two things at
once. Due to lack of time, consumers might be persuaded to turn to
skin care products that work when asleep, helping to reset and infuse
the skin with active ingredients. Another approach is to offer consumers shorter routines with concentrated benefits. The BB/CC
creams typify this, but there are also all-in-one gel products that combine a lotion, essence, make-up base and mask etc., and all-in-one
face wash and lotion.
Bernardin highlighted some of the new formulations and textures
that are popular in Japan, including foams, and jellies which turn to
liquid on the skin or contain a fragrance. Colour is an important angle
as it can be used to show up ingredients, or experiences, such as
Blue Olay, giving the impression of water.
FLUX macht mobil!
Das Fassentleerungssystem VISCOFLUX mobile eignet
sich in der Ausführung Pharma Food Cosmetic ideal
zur Förderung hochviskoser Medien wie z. B. Cremes,
Mascaras oder Rohstoffe für kosmetische Produkte –
selbst aus konischen Fässern mit Aseptic
Bags. Es bietet Prozesssicherheit auch bei
Unterbrechung des Fördervorgangs und
erreicht Restmengen von unter
2 %. Eine optionale Steuereinheit
ermöglicht jetzt die Einbindung in
unterschiedlichste Abfüllprozesse.
Dank seines fahrbaren Prozessgerätes ist es auch ohne Kran
oder Gabelstapler äußerst mobil.
Zum Film:
H2O: rethinking the role of water
There were two round table presentations based on this year’s infocus H2O feature. The first panel debated the sustainable use of water in the cosmetics industry and the new Standard ISO 14046, which
is currently in the draft stage and due to go to the vote this summer. 쑺
Talweg 12 · D-75433 Maulbronn · Tel. +49 (0)7043 101-0
info@flux-pumpen.de · www.flux-pumpen.de
http://viscoflux.flux-pumpen.de/mobile/1306031.html
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EVENTS
photo: Pashabo, Shutterstock.com
Jean Baptiste Bayard, LCA Project
Manager, Quantis, discussed the need
for an ISO, but pointed out that the science is not complete enough to have
one standard, so the ISO will need to
be modified. Quantis are putting together a water database so that companies can access this to gain clues
about water consumption. He also
stressed the importance of educating
consumers on the sustainability of water through the wash-off products they
use in the bath or shower.
P&G’s sustainability is at the heart
of the company’s business model, including looking at formulations and
how the products are used. Jacques
Euler, Beauty Care Water & Waste Sustainability Leader at P&G, highlighted
the fact that existing plants can be
modified to become more sustainable,
although building a sustainable plant
from scratch is best. L’Oréal use a lifecycle approach to evaluating water
consumption and are looking particularly at rinse-off products, with three
products having been fully evaluated
for issues such as biodegradability of
the formulation, end of life use and environmental footprint. “More evaluation of products is needed before
switching to a new model, as the science is still incomplete,” pointed out
Euler.
The second panel discussion focused on Water & Biology – new perspectives in skin care innovation. Helene Duplan, Head of the Skin Pharmacology & Pharmacokinetics R&D
Laboratory at Pierre Fabre, talked
about the discoveries regarding water
in the skin. “Seventy percent of hydration is in the skin and water is constantly being regulated according to
temperature, humidity and UV,” she
Surfactants account for 31% of volume
sales of specific ingredients
20
COSSMA 6 I 2013
explained, pointing out that sometimes the skin does not respond, such
as in older people. Often, the signs of
imbalance are not evident until it is too
late. Daniel B. Yarosh, Senior Vice
President at Basic Science Research,
responsible for the basic research of
the Estée Lauder Companies, talked
about the loss of water from the skin
when flying. “Water loss accelerates
much faster 30 minutes after take-off.
By the time you land, some feel dry, but
the skin is damaged. The solution is to
put more water back, but you have to
wait a few days after sloughing off dead
skin.” However, water alone is not
enough for the repair process, which
needs antioxidants and other antidotes for use on dry skin. Pascal Bordet, PhD in Pharmaceutical Sciences,
argued that inflammation is linked to
dry skin and that scientists should pay
more attention to the role of stress, inflammation and the environment. The
key is preventing water from evaporating from the skin, using humectants,
the development of actives/molecules
and the formulation of the product itself. The Holy Grail would be an all-day
moisturiser, but this is very difficult
to achieve, even for one lasting just
18 hours.
Mintel’s Global Skin Care Analyst,
Chris Lindsley, provided the latest data on launches making moisturising
claims and using different approaches
to water in the formulation. Mintel research shows that moisturising claims
are increasing from 26% in 2009 to 32%
of all product launches in 2012, even in
colour cosmetics. “Seventy eight percent of launches specify the use of water from a particular source,” he explained, giving examples of new products using glacier/glacial water, such as
Skyn Iceland Arctic Hydrating Balm.
Other water sources include the use of
“wild water” in Dermalab Water Shock
and deep sea or lagoon water in Asian
skin care launches. Lindsley also
looked at the trend for beauty drinks
and beauty supplements. “Consumers
are aware that drinks can offer more
than just hydration,” he stated. “A third
of consumers in France, Germany and
Italy agree that water with vitamins is
healthier than water alone.”
Amarjit Sahota, Managing Director
of Organic Monitor, led a discussion on
sustainability challenges when sourcing ingredients from the sea. The po-
photo: Grafxart, Shutterstock.com
MARKETING
UV absorbers, the fastest growing
ingredients category, grows 5% by
volume year on year
tential for marine ingredients is largely
untapped, with only 10% of 2 million
species discovered. Out of 30,000 marine algae species, only 50 are used in
cosmetics, presenting enormous potential. However, there are sustainability issues, such as overfishing and environmental pollution. Furthermore,
there are no sustainability standards
for the harvesting of algae, minerals
and plants.
Tapping trends in
e-commerce
Perry Romanowski, Vice President
of Brains Publishing, is a cosmetic
consultant who has worked for Alberto
Culver and now writes books, blogs
and runs forums for cosmetic
chemists. He highlighted key Internet
productivity tools, such as reference
websites on where to find research and
how to find good beauty, and science
blogs for discovering innovations, e.g.
his own The Beauty Brains and killerinnovation.com. Romanowski suggested
that everyone should be aware of what
is written about them and that they
should monitor their profile and reputation online.
According to Euromonitor, global
beauty Internet retailing is worth
£ 3 bn, while department stores, supermarkets and pharmacies are losing
share. However, beauty specialists,
drugstores and hypermarkets are all
gaining. Antonia Branston highlighted
the four steps to impulse buying in the
shops as: see, try, buy and possess. At
face value, it would seem that online
cannot compete, but there are new initiatives which show the changing face
of online retailing. For example, Tesco
is trialing a format at an airport where
consumers can see the products, click
to purchase them and have them delivered to their home. Branston talked
about the development of “click and
collect”, where Internet retailers team 쑺
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Introducing Lipo’s
newest platform
This platform showcases raw
materials and formulations
that mimic real world elements
Adding texture to a formulation
can improve the consumer’s
sensorial experience and
provide a subconscious link
to the product’s performance
For more information:
www.lipochemicals.com/texture
Come See Us at Suppliers’ Day Booth # 1007
A Vantage Specialty Chemicals Business
www.lipochemicals.com
www.cossma.com
EVENTS
up with smaller retailers, so that consumers do not have to wait in for a delivery. Amazon Locker is going international and is suited to customers who
can pick up product close to their
home or work. “Cosmetics are small
items, so retailers could offer same day
delivery, bringing them closer to the retail model,” said Branston.
In the future, Branston sees that impulse shopping will become easier, using mobile technology. Barcodes, QR
codes and digital watermarks will become the norm when buying online.
Asia-Pacific, largely
China, will be the
largest contributor
to premium beauty
by 2016
report on marketing
and mature audiences pulls together
20 ways in which the
old rules do not apply to age and ageing. For example, age
disruption includes
new ideas of age and ageing, which recognizes that we are active consumers
for longer, we lead longer, healthier
lives and refuse to accept or conform
to our chronological age.
Niche brand interview
Marketing challenges presented by an ageing population
Mark Beasley, Managing Director of
Rhc advantage, discussed the pres-
sures that women face in the effort to
maintain an attractive and youthful appearance, especially as they grow older. He cited research from the University of Kent, showing that people have a
different perception of age according
to how old they are, so at 15–24, respondents think that people stop being young at 28, while for those over
80, 40 is considered to be the cut-off
point. Through his research, he found
that women use cosmetics to combat
feelings of invisibility and that older
women are hardly ever represented in
beauty campaigns. Beasley cited Imogen Matthews’ report entitled Older
Women: the Forgotten Demographic,
which centres on understanding the
usage and attitudes of women over 50
regarding beauty products. “One of the
many interesting findings is a clear
rejection by the respondents of the
concept of ‘anti-ageing’ – a recurrent
theme right across all my research
sources,” he explained. “Older women,
it seems, are less concerned with looking younger, as seems to be assumed
by the cosmetics industry, and more
concerned with looking healthy and
feeling comfortable.” His own research
The presentations in brief
For the first time, there was a morning of presentations
and round-table discussions on the role of fragrance in
cosmetics, which was complemented by a new interactive
fragrance zone hosted by 21 fragrance materials suppliers. Other presentations from leading research companies and agencies covered issues such as sustainability,
the role of water in the beauty industry linking to the
in-focus H2O Trail, the trend for mood cosmetics and what
the beauty landscape will look like in 2020. In addition,
there were the ever-popular niche brand interviews, conducted by COSSMA’s editor in chief, Angelika Meiss.
22
COSSMA 6 I 2013
Rebecca Hopkins, co-founder of
Balance Me, and Katrin Steinbach, Innovation & Research Manager at Cosnova, discussed the challenges of a
small brand starting out and competing in the global beauty markets. Balance Me started in 2005 as a “kitchen
table” brand, that was given a break by
fashion retailer Top Shop and spotted
by department store group John Lewis.
The products display the percentage of
natural ingredients on the pack and
use sophisticated textures that are results-oriented and at accessible prices.
The brand’s success has also been due
to a lot of sampling of good sized products in magazines and Glossybox, the
sampling box scheme. “We stand by
our philosophy and never deviate,” explained Hopkins. Cosnova produces
Catrice and Essence – high quality and
low price make-up ranges. Essence,
aimed at consumers aged 14–25, is Europe’s number one cosmetics brand,
which is also sold globally. Catrice targets the over 25s and has more premium appeal at affordable prices. “Social
media is very important as they are
young brands, so we use Facebook,
twitter and also online communities,”
stated Steinbach. The brand values include offering honest, reliable products and never overpromising.
The future of beauty
Emmanuelle Bassman, Managing
Director of In-Trend Ltd., presented
some provocative ideas for the way
that beauty products will be in 2020,
based on current trends and research.
“Research shows that wrinkles happen
not only in the dermis, but in the fat
layers, which have a role in rejuvenating skin, an area targeted currently by
aesthetic medicine companies,” stated
Bassmann. She maintains that in the
photo: Asylsun, Shutterstock.com
MARKETING
future, our understanding of the skin
will lead to sun protection products
that do not block the sun’s rays, but allow a healthy dose to pass through.
Furthermore, the role of moisturisers
will come under scrutiny, as scientists
show that the skin may be better off –
and be less sensitive – rebalancing itself without the barrier of a cream or
oil. Other trends to watch out for are
foams, which are currently big in prescription strength formulations, and
new molecules, including Aminofill, a
new anti-ageing active, and 5-FU, used
in skin cancer and that has been shown
to have skin rejuvenating capabilities.
Diane Sexhauer, Managing Partner
at SpringPool, on behalf of the marketing trends presentation sponsors DSM,
identified three consumer profiles that
hold potential for manufacturers. Ambition and optimism refers to young
women in their 20s, living busy lives in
big cities who want multifunctional
products that fit into their hectic lives.
“They are also interested in anti-fatigue/anti-ageing products, but prefer
more positive ways to say this,” said
Sexhauer. Enveloped Statement is
about women in their late 20s and 30s
who are interested in gadgets and are
very aware of the technological revolution. “They see beauty as something to
improve inwardly and outwardly and
like unusual products that use science.
For them, white is the new tan.” Departure to Tradition is for men and women
who are interested in tradition and authenticity, “going back to nature.” They
stick to a regime and high quality products, using traditional ingredients that
promise nourishment and resilience.
* Insights from these presentations on the role of fragrance in cosmetics will be featured in the July/August
edition of COSSMA
Further details on the marketing trends can be found on
the website: www.in-cosmetics.com
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
see Internet box
Imogen Matthews
In-Cosmetics Consultant
Oxford
UK
136-13_EA_Image_BFMue_2013_A4_uk 23.05.13 07:48 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
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COS1306_24_Zschimmer_GB_COS1306_24_Zschimmer_D 22.05.13 14:08 Seite 24
www.cossma.com
MARKETING INGREDIENTS
Home spa products
A touch of paradise
at home
photos: Zschimmer & Schwarz
Giving home spa products additional glamour – that is the aim of
the new formulation concepts from Zschimmer & Schwarz. They
are characterised by unexpected textures and effects and are
based on proven, well accepted ingredients that meet the important requirements of stability and tolerance, and that at the same
time give basic formulations the required versatility to respond
quickly to changes in the trend-conscious home spa market.
The more intense the character of the
experience the more likely the consumer
is to buy the product again
T
he spa and wellness trend is enjoying increasing popularity, and
not only in Europe but worldwide. In India for example, the home of
Ayurveda, the market grew last year by
about 11 percent1. Market research
companies are noticing a number of
new products in this market sector:
“Products that can bring the spa to
your own home are often mentioned in
magazine articles and adverts. The
number of newly launched products in
2-phase products are always a fascination
24
COSSMA 6 I 2013
this sector is astounding”1. The huge
number of new products in the market
points to an enormous potential.
In an increasingly stressful lifestyle
the need to balance body and mind, to
relax and have an inner sense of satisfaction, is ever more important. When
seeking a quiet moment the spa offers
tangible solutions, but an overloaded
meetings schedule offers, rather than a
relaxing full day in one of the many spa
clubs, only just enough time for short
periods of relaxation. As a real alternative to a quick day spa experience in a
free hour or two, at home the home spa
products allow an uninterrupted stay
on one’s “private bath island”. So it is
no wonder that the market for home
spa products is currently enjoying a
boom.
“Today people follow a hectic
lifestyle and are more stressed than
ever. Spa products make possible a spa
experience at home”2. Another reason
for the high impact made by spa products is probably their relatively lower
cost. Not everybody can afford a spa,
or wants to spend their limited amount
of money, at a spa. This was clearly
noticed by the trend researcher Nicole
Tyrimou of Euromonitor: “The ongoing
economic problems in many countries
make spa alternatives for home use an
attractive option, for example in Italy
and Spain, where a visit to a spa is part
of a woman’s routine but which they
have to cut out for economic reasons.
The market for home spa products will
surely grow”3.
To be successful the home spa must
bring home the spa centre, or spa club,
atmosphere into the client’s own bathroom, her own wellness oasis. But how
can we define exactly what a spa experience offers that is so special?
In addition to the bathing aspect
that offers the main sensation, the focus is on relaxation and the awareness
of all the sensual aspects. The eyes
are pampered with a pleasant ambiance, the nose receives pleasant fragrances, and the palate senses appropriate flavours. If a maximum number
of these sensual awarenesses can be
assembled in one convincing product
the daily stress fades into the background.
An experience for all
of the senses
If a product appeals to a number of
sensual awarenesses at the same time
it has much better chances of consumer acceptance. A bath product, for
example, appeals to the surface of the
skin, and with its intensively sensual
aroma filling the room, also appeals
to the sense of smell. And the eyes?
In addition to the packaging the product itself can be eye-catching, intensifying the experience, which is more
intense the more one is personally
involved.
To achieve this some product types
in the home spa sector offer interesting
possibilities. The new “Pamper your
senses” series of formulations, developed especially for the wellness and
COS1306_24_Zschimmer_GB_COS1306_24_Zschimmer_D 22.05.13 14:08 Seite 25
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INGREDIENTS
home spa market, offers creative ideas
and possibilities for various needs and
wishes.
2-phase creative solutions
An attractive variant is offered by
the 2-phase products whose special ingredients ensure that the phases are
optimally separated. Non-aqueous
surfactants such as Zetesol TP 300
make it possible to create such 2phase products that are later soluble in
water like emulsions. Before use they
are shaken and so made ready for use,
where they have a positive effect on the
sense of wellbeing.
“Two into one” is so-called because
of its active contribution to a home spa
experience. During bathing one can
see the phases in the bottle, just like a
lava lamp. To increase the “I do” feeling
the initial seconds or the activation impression can be used. One can create
an impression that a bath additive in
the bottle is “at rest” and is only
brought into action by shaking or
adding to the bath water. The feeling of
Downloads
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at www.health-and-beauty.com
qr00136
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awakening the spirit in then bottle
evolves. When the additive hits the
bath water the colour of the product
can dramatically change, and so visually and olfactorily send a message
that the product is ready for use. The
eyes and nose are working together in
the whole experience. This bath additive can run into the water and remain
clear, or spontaneously create a white
emulsion with an appropriate colour
nuance.
The arousal of the senses can also
be intensified with a mixture of effects
such as the non-aqueous surfactant
oily gel based on Lumorol K 1000, that
contains sugar as an abrasive. The two
phases of the product application can
be clearly appreciated, one within the
other. The well-balanced, non-aqueous
gel has its own effect as an exfoliant
with spreadability and abrasive intensity.
Applying the product onto dry skin
covers the skin with a smooth, glossy
film which, thanks to the sugar crystals,
does not feel too oily. When rinsed off,
the oily gel produces a white, lightly
foaming emulsion thanks to its surfactant content. At the same time the sugar dissolves in water and it can be
clearly felt how the sugar exfoliant
bodies become gradually smaller until
they finally dissolve away and the
emulsion dominates the sensations –
a complete cleansing experience coupled with a caring process
A similar concept can also be
achieved with minerals on an oil-gel
basis. Particularly important here is to
be sure that in such an “active application” it can be rinsed off without too
much effort. It is only in this way that
that a mineral-based formulation will
be enjoyable at home. The oil-gel basis
must therefore be easy to rinse off. Also important is the optimum granule
size. It must on the one hand be fine
enough to offer a smooth, soft exfoliant action, and on the other hand big
enough to ensure an easy and even
spread. For this reason we use an alluvial mud with the right properties
For those who enjoy a home spa,
and who like it elegant and creamy, the
essential thing is gentle skin care.
Body exfoliants, an essential spa application, must here take on a totally different texture and clearly demonstrate
their skin care performance. The exfoliants used here are small, rounded
and softer, for rather creamier formulations. Particularly gentle exfoliant
products can be offered as In-Shower
Peeling Butter or Peeling Shower Lotion. Emulsifiers, such as Protelan Ens,
and mild surfactants from the Protelan
range based on amino acids allow different viscosities, starting with buttery
formulations and going through to
lotions. They are easy to dilute and
wash off easily.
The market for bath and home spa
products has moved into the fast lane
and opinion researchers say that there
is no real brand loyalty. “The bath and
shower sector establishes itself via repeat sales, but there is no specific
brand loyalty. Consumers are quick to
switch to more attractively priced offers or new products”3. In the wellness
sector the idea of sensual experience
and curiosity are key features. The
most unusual impressions are the
ones that attract the attention of most
consumers. This puts significant demands on the formulator.
MARKETING
The bath additive takes on a colour as
it runs into the bath water, or it can
form an emulsion
Spa products that have a particularly impressive and long-lasting effect
are more likely to be purchased again.
One possibility for a higher level of
customer loyalty is therefore products
with a maximum and intensive potential experience.
The trends in fragrances and actives
are quick to change in this sector of the
market, and the focus is always on the
possibility of opening up new horizons. In order to be ready to react to
changing market tastes, a low level of
brand loyalty and a constant search by
consumers for something new, and for
totally new ideas to come to fruition, a
product needs the right concept. But
that means basic formulations must be
very stable and tolerant of added ingredients in order to be able to react to
new trends. The most suitable here are
formulations created using classic ingredients with known performance
properties and good versatility.
1 Mintel
2 Jo Parker, Spa Director of Champneys, UK, in SPC
Journal, February 2013
3 Nicole Tyrimou, Euromonitor, in SPC Journal,
February 2013
Further information can be found on the Internet
(see. Intern panel)
Ulrike Marx
Torsten Krohn
Zschimmer & Schwarz,
Lahnstein, Germany
u.marx@zschimmer-schwarz.com
t.krohn@zschimmer-schwarz.com
www.zschimmer-schwarz.com
COSSMA 6 I 2013
25
COS1306_26_Dambacher_GB_COS1306_26_Dambacher_GB 22.05.13 14:08 Seite 26
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MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Natural cosmetics
Soon there may
be no rose cream
Natural cosmetics is still a growing market
– and growing faster than the traditional
market. Elfriede Dambacher, publisher
of the brand new Natural Cosmetics
Yearbook 2013, looks at the latest market
position and explains what could perhaps
cast a shadow on this business.
Natural Cosmetics Yearbook 2013
Whether the reader is interested in trend analyses, international brands, professional cosmetics salons, distributors, ingredients and packaging suppliers, the media,
manufacturers, international industry federations or
international profiles of natural cosmetics distribution
organisations with innovative and flagship stores, it is
all to be found in this reference work in German, which contains everything worth knowing about the growth market
of natural cosmetics, including 1,600 updated company
and business addresses.
An overview of the brands that carry a seal of approval,
plus an international exhibition and congress calendar,
round off 300 pages of hard information.
www.naturkosmetik-verlag.de/shop
26
COSSMA 6 I 2013
photos: Aslysun/Shutterstock.com
W
ith an increase in sales of
5.5 percent natural cosmetics in 2012 once again
exhibited more growth than cosmetics
products that claim to be close to nature but do not meet the criteria for
natural cosmetics. The German market
for genuine natural cosmetics turned
over 860 million Euros in 2012 and
held its place as the growth leader
within the cosmetics market. Natural
cosmetics, together with near natural
cosmetics, already holds a 14 percent
share of total beauty sector sales.
An important purchasing criterion
is the fragrance of a personal care
product. For all of those who do not
suffer from a fragrance allergy (i.e.
about 97 percent of the population)
pleasing fragrances mean a feeling of
wellness and represent a certain quality of life. There are more than 20,000
known triggers for allergies. It is therefore difficult to know what causes a
person’s allergy, and how the specific
trigger should be avoided.
Without natural fragrances floral and citrus notes in natural cosmetics will
no longer be able to be produced
Theoretically any natural or artificial substance could trigger an allergy.
Allergies to fragrances affect only 1 to
3 percent of the European population.
For these people it is important to
know which fragrances are contained
in the product, and for this reason,
since 2003, there are 26 potential fragrance allergens on the INCI list which,
if they are in the formulation, must be
listed on the cosmetics package. For
other fragrances the general term
“fragrance” or “perfume” is sufficient.
Following a check on the allergic
potential of fragrances the EU scientific committee (the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, the SCCS) has
recommended that the list of 26 be increased by 101 substances to 127 (read
more in COSSMA 5/2013, page 20, and
COSSMA 3/2013, page 22).
Furthermore the SCCS has recommended that the permitted concentration level of 12 fragrances be strictly
limited, and that many natural and
synthetic fragrances be banned.
A limit of concentration levels to
0.01 percent would impact on some
important fragrances used in natural
cosmetics. Because natural cosmetics
exclude the use of synthetic fragrances
and citrus notes that would mean that
floral and citrus notes could almost no
longer be used. ”The result would be, if
the recommendation were accepted,
the disappearance of natural cosmetics as we now know them”, says with
conviction Dr. Rainer Wohlfart, head of
R&D at Kneipp. “The wide range of
fragrances and intensities would be
lost and synthetic fragrances, currently
little used, would replace natural fragrances”.
Adaptation from the Natural Cosmetics Yearbook 2013,
scientific contribution from Dr. Rainer Wohlfart,
head of R&D at Kneipp
Elfriede Dambacher
Natural cosmetics concepts
consultant, MD of the Natural
Cosmetics Publishers, publisher of
the Natural Cosmetics Yearbook
and the natural cosmetics industry
reports, as well as organiser of the natural
cosmetics industry congress in Berlin
ed@naturkosmetik-verlag.de
www.naturkosmetik-verlag.de
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www.cossma.com
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COS1306_28_Twada_GB_COS1306_28_Twada_D 22.05.13 14:09 Seite 28
www.cossma.com
MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Innovative power in smaller companies
How to avoid flops
Whilst altogether the total number of
FMCG* manufacturers loses about 10
billion Euros in product flops, losses in the
washing, cleaning and cosmetics sectors
is estimated at around 1 billion Euros per
year. This is equivalent to 5 percent of the
turnover in these sectors. Wolfgang
Twardawa of the GfK points out which
factors are decisive in creating successful
innovations, especially in small to medium
sized companies.
O
f all of the items in a food retailer’s shop an average of 23 percent have been less than 18
months on the market. For laundry
products and shampoos those figures
are as high as 40 percent and 32 percent respectively. A third of all households would like to see more, or even
lots more, innovations. There can be
no growth without innovation, yet interestingly 70 percent of all innovations are considered to be flops, and
disappear in their first year. Maybe the
case is that those who create the products do not see clearly that an innovation must represent a better solution
for a relevant problem.
New products with a high or average level of innovation have almost
double the chances of success than
products with a low level of innovation.
The factors in the success of a relevant
innovation include, alongside the actual level of innovation itself, the price
level and value for money. 60 percent
of all innovations fall at this fence,
53 percent have too low a level of innovation, and 58 percent have the wrong
”value for money” message. Flops are
due, amongst other things, to concepts
that have emerged without the input of
a professional innovations management team (see COSSMA 4/2013, page
20), have no logical clear, consumer
benefit or have no strong marketing
support right from the beginning.
Whilst on average 60 percent of
innovations fail because of a weak
concept, and 40 percent fail in their
presentation, i.e. in the fields of distribution and communication, it is interesting to note that in smaller companies half of the ideas fail in their presentation to the consumer. But how can
this innovation failure rate be significantly reduced for small or medium
sized companies?
Price alone is not a differentiating
criterion in success or failure. Two
thirds of all flops fail in their ”value for
money” message rather than price itself. A further problem is the pricing of
a groupës brands. The stronger the
house brand the more likely is the risk
of it being damaged by a flop. In contrast a weaker house brand can take
greater advantage of an innovation.
Pricing promotions have no impact
on the success of new product launches, i.e. in the introductory phase no excessive price promotions are required.
Successful new launches reach the ear
of the consumer by way of high communication budgets. Advertising expenses for a new product can easily run
to more than 6 million Euros in the
year of the productís launch. With the
smaller budgets of smaller companies
a clear focus on specific consumer targets and the higher level of penetration
to be achieved, is essential.
Only a better
solution to a
relevant problem can really
convince the
consumer
What makes an innovation
successful?
When a product is so attractive that
it is not only bought but also found to
be so positive when used that it is
bought a second time, then an innovation launch project can be considered
a success.
photo: Lightpoet, Shutterstock.com
* Fast Moving Consumer Goods
This article is based on information given in a talk during
the IKW small to medium companies conference on
21.3.2013 in Bad Homburg
28
COSSMA 6 I 2013
Wolfgang Twardawa
Marketing Research Consultant
GfK, Nuremberg, Germany
wolfgang.twardawa@gfk.com
www.gfk.com
COS1306_Grafe_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 23.05.13 07:50 Seite 1
COLOR PREVIEW 2014
Julia Canzler, Design und Packaging,
GRAFE-Design-Center
Welche Innovationen präsentiert das
Unternehmen GRAFE zur CosmeticBusiness 2013?
Das
Team
des
GRAFE-DesignCenters
wird
mit
zwei
Neuerungen zur CosmeticBusiness 2013 in
München aufwarten. Bei der ersten
handelt es sich um die Color Preview
2014, wobei der wagemutige Superheld COLORAKEL die Farben für die
#"!! " !
Anhand
atemberaubender
Abenteuer, geht er der Frage nach, wo
die Trendfarben eigentlich herkommen. Auf diese Weise entdeckt er ein
Gelb, das wohl nur an einem völlig unbekannten Ort, wie der Tiefsee vermutet werden kann, oder ein magisches
Violett, das Zauberei erahnen lässt.
Colorakel Trendfarbe - Magic Purple © GRAFE
Mit
unserer
Farbserie
„Exklusive
Colors“ präsentieren wir unseren Besuchern eine weitere Innovation. Hochwertigste Farben, neuartige und komplexe Pigmente werden hierbei verarbeitet.
Sie
sprechen
vom
GRAFEDesign-Center – können Sie das näher
erklären?
Das GRAFE-Design-Center bietet dem
Kunden ein ganzheitliches Konzept im
Bereich Verpackungen und Trends.
Neben der Kompetenz der GRAFE Color
Batch GmbH, welche die Farben nach
den Wünschen der Kunden einstellt,
bietet
das
GRAFE-DesignCenter darüber hinaus ein komplettes
Servicekonzept für seine Kunden. So
beraten die Mitarbeiter des GRAFEDesign-Centers die Kunden bei der Farbauswahl, in Bezug auf ihre Zielgruppe,
die neusten Entwicklungen im Farb- und
Pigmentbereich sowie hinsichtlich der
neusten Trends. Wobei Letzteres das
Kernthema des GRAFE-Design-Centers
darstellt. Die Kunden erhalten nicht nur
die Farben für die kommende Saison
bereits in Kunststoff abgebildet, sondern
diese verpackt in einem spannenden
Projekt. Wir möchten inspirieren, faszinieren und sind bestrebt, dass unsere Kunden immer einen Schritt voraus sind.
COLORAKEL – ein Superheld, ist das
ihre Idee gewesen?
Das Konzept ist
in
Zusammenarbeit mit einem
Künstler entstanden. Der größte
Teil des Themas
entstammt seiner
Feder,
ebenso
wie der Name
des Heldens. Die
Idee, dass es sich
bei COLORAKEL
um einen Superhelden handelt, wurde
jedoch bei uns im Haus geboren.
Auf welche Lösungen aus dem Hause GRAFE sind sie besonders stolz?
In unserem Haus entstehen viele beeindruckende Innovationen auf die wir
stolz sind. Um an dieser Stelle nicht den
Rahmen zu sprengen, beschränke ich
mich auf zwei Lösungen, welche das
Haus GRAFE auf der Messe präsentiert.
Besonders stolz sind wir natürlich auf
unsere Color Preview Projekte. Den
Kunden jedes Jahr aufs Neue mit
einem spannenden Thema und einzigartigen Farben zu überraschen und zu
inspirieren, dies macht sehr viel Spaß, ist
allerdings auch stets wieder eine
anspruchsvolle Herausforderung. Ein
www.cossma.com
ebenfalls sehr erfolgreiches Projekt ist der
Flow Improver, der die Fließfähigkeit
" "" her eine enorme Senkung der Zykluszeit mit sich bringt. Somit kann unter
einer deutlichen Energieeinsparung,
ein höherer Ausstoß erzielt werden.
Das spricht für GRAFE als Lieferanten
- GRAFE steht für Innovation, Qualität,
Kreativität, Flexibilität, Schnelligkeit und
Sorgfalt
- Farb-Design- und Farbkompetenz
- individuelle Lösungen
- größte Forschungsabteilung der
Branche
- schnelle Auftragsabwicklung
- kurze Liefer- und Entwicklungszeiten
- hohe Lieferfähigkeit
- keine Mindestbestellmengen
- GRAFE auf der CosmeticBusiness
Stand D17, Halle 1
GRAFE Color Batch GmbH
GRAFE-Design-Center
Waldecker Str. 21
99444 Blankenhain
www.grafe-design.com
Service: Farb-Design-Experte
Produkte:
Farb- und Additiv-Masterbatches,
Kunststoff-Compounds
Pigmentpulvermischungen
COS1306_30_Gesetzgebung_GB_COS1306_30_Gesetzgebung_D 22.05.13 14:10 Seite 30
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PRODUCTION
LEGISLATION
The new regulations
put under the
microscope
The new EU Cosmetics Regulation
photo: Style-photography.de,
Shutterstock.com
Safety, responsibility,
animal tests, and more
What changes are expected in the areas of safety, responsibility,
animal testing and advertising with the introduction of the new
Cosmetics Regulation? Dr. Gerd Mildau of the CVUA and Birgit
Huber of the IKW give us some clear answers in an interview with
COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss.
fied in Annex I will be explained in
more detail.
tion (a new section in the regulation
called “Product Information File“) for
competent authorities: Article 11 (3) of
the regulation requires that the information will be easily accessible at the
address of the responsible person
given on the label. If more than one address is given then the address of the
responsible person where the competent authorities can check the necessary data, will be highlighted.
Will the lack of alternative methods reduce the innovation
abilities of the European industry?
What are the new requirements with
regard to safety?
Dr. Gerd Mildau, responsible for cosmetics at
the German Chemical and
Veterinary Investigation Office (CVUA) in Karlsruhe,
Germany: In the new Annex I of the reg-
ulation the Commission has clearly
structured and defined the contents of
the safety assessment for the first time.
The safety report will now be obliged to
contain the cosmetic product safety information and the related safety assessment will be presented as a logical
conclusion to the safety information.
To make the content easily understandable the Commission will publish guidelines where all criteria speci30
COSSMA 6 I 2013
have, in future, a higher status. The
safety assessor must be able to meet
certain specific requirements to fulfil
this important and scientifically demanding task. He will be required to
take responsibility for his legally binding expert opinion that the product is
safe. It is of importance to know that
nor Annex I neither the relative guidelines, constitute checklists that are followed point by point in this sequence.
They serve only as a valuable aid helping the safety assessor in his work. He
can also build up the assessment in a
different way. The important point is
that all of the requirements are met,
and when concrete data may be lacking
the safety must be ensured and firmly
based, e.g. by drawing conclusions by
analogy. In Germany this system has
been predominantly practised for
many years. As a result of there being
numerous training courses and discussion fora the quality of the safety assessments has improved steadily in
recent years. It is therefore not necessary to re-work existing safety assessments if they meet the requirements of
Annex I.
Birgit Huber, deputy
director of the IKW (German Cosmetic, Toiletry,
Perfumery and Detergent
Association), Frankfurt,
Germany: In future it will also be made
easier to access the product informa-
What has changed with regard to
product responsibility?
Mildau: In this regulation the re-
sponsibility along the supply chain is
photo: Harry Huber, Shutterstock.com
photo: Chones, Shutterstock.com
And what does this mean in concrete terms for the safety assessment?
Mildau: The safety assessment will
Its increased importance has made the
safety assessment a complex and scientifically demanding process
COS1306_30_Gesetzgebung_GB_COS1306_30_Gesetzgebung_D 22.05.13 14:10 Seite 31
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LEGISLATION
How does the new notification procedure work and what are its advantages?
Mildau: By July 11th 2013 all of the
products being marketed must be notified via the CPNP data base. This data
base fulfils in principle two aspects: On
the one hand Europe-wide toxicology
centres will have the necessary information required to be able to offer
strongly-founded advice about a intoxication, and on the other hand the
competent authorities have a broad
overview of the products that are on
the market.
Huber: Previous experience has
shown that there may often be some
small difficulties at the first registration, but the system is quickly found to
be easy to handle. Meanwhile there is
a new electronic interface available
which allows data input direct into the
CPNP.
What changes are there with respect
to animal testing and what will be the
consequences for the cosmetics industry worldwide?
Mildau: Since September 2004 ani-
mal testing for finished products has
been forbidden in the EU; in Germany
already since 1998. Furthermore it is
also forbidden to market products that
have been tested on animals. Animal
tests for ingredients of cosmetic products are banned since 2009. It is also
forbidden to market cosmetic products
if the ingredients have been tested on
animals. The only exception until
March 11th 2013 was for three safety
aspects, namely repeated toxicology,
reproductive toxicology, and toxicokinetics. For these three endpoints no
alternative methods are available. This
approved delay has now expired.
Huber: The German cosmetics industry is one of the most innovative industries. But: it is possible that in the
medium to long term the number of innovative cosmetics will reduce and the
EU cosmetics industry will find itself
less well placed against other markets
and suppliers. Because the development of suitable alternative methods
calls for further long term research it
could mean that new, innovative products can still be sold only outside of
the EU. This is how all of those involved see the situation. The alternative methods required could also impact on ingredients currently in use, if,
for instance, questions posed by scientists or the authorities on the safety of
these ingredients can be answered only by carrying out animal tests.
What is new in the field of adver tising?
Mildau: Claims for cosmetics al-
ready had to be scientifically supported already and must not mislead
consumer.
The EU Cosmetics Regulation now
expects to precisely define existing requirements as “general criteria”. Here
the EU Commission, in cooperation
with member states, has prepared a
Downloads
www.health-and-beauty.com/
qr00119
User name: cossma6
Password: hair
photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com
more specifically detailed than in the
existing directive. However, in practice,
for manufacturers, distributors and importers in terms of the definitions of
the regulation there is no real basic
change. For example the duty of proof
for distributors can be limited only to
such labelling deficiencies that can be
easily recognised by them. The duty of
declaring unsafe products to the authorities, which until now was always
included in general product safety law,
is now directly included in European
cosmetics legislation. A new aspect is
that the traceability of cosmetics within the supply chain is specifically regulated.
Huber: If normal delivery documentation is kept for 3 years then this duty
is already being fulfilled. To make it
more transparent who in the supply
chain will be responsible after the introduction of the Cosmetics Regulation a detailed guide is being assembled by the European cosmetics association.
The German version covering cosmetic products is available on
the IKW website at http://www.ikw.
org/fileadmin/content/downloads/Sch
%C3%B6nheitspflege/Leitfaden_Verantwortlichkeiten_02_2013.pdf for
download. The English version can be
found at https://www.cosmeticseurope.eu/publications-cosmetics-europe-association/guidelines.html?
view=item&id=89.
PRODUCTION
Promotional claims must respect the
following criteria: truthfulness, evidential
support, honesty and fairness
supplementary regulation that should
be published before July of this year.
Therein it is clearly stated that for
claims the following general criteria
must be followed: truthfulness, evidential support, honesty and fairness.
In this way the consumer should be
able to make a clear fundamental decision regarding the purchase of a product.
Huber: This regulation is also
planned to be extended by specific
guidelines that will, by way of concrete
examples, explain the criteria to be applied for cosmetics products. These
guidelines should, of course, as far as
possible, agree with the already harmonised Europe-wide advertising legislation. In Germany commercial competition law is already very heavily applied by the courts. In this way there is
already for competitors and competing
associations the possibility to forbid,
in very short time, the dissemination of
misleading advertising claims. This
means, in addition to the possibility of
a check by the authorities, additional
consumer protection.
Further information and a further interview on the new
cosmetics regulation from COSSMA 5/2013, page 24,
can be found on the Internet (see Internet panel)
Interview partners:
gerd.mildau@cvuaka.bwl.de, www.cvua-karlsruhe.de
bhuber@ikw.org, www.ikw.org
COSSMA 6 I 2013
31
COS1306_32_Cosmetic_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.05.13 14:10 Seite 32
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PRODUCTION
EVENTS
Cosmetic Business 2013
photo: Gerresheimer
Mercedes-Benz flacon awarded the 2012 German Packaging Prize.
be showing their latest flacons, jars
and other glass containers that have
been produced for various clients in
the cosmetics industry, including the
Mercedes-Benz flacon which was
awarded the German Packaging Prize
in 2012.
Amanda is Lumson’s new range of
plastic tottles dedicated to the skin
care and make-up markets. The Italian
design, characterised by a slight con-
T
photo: Dieter Bakic
On June 13th and 14th in Munich the
cosmetics industry will be presenting their
latest developments at the Cosmetics
Business event. Here we bring you a short
preview of some of the new products
awaiting you.
he new Viola pump from Dieter
Bakic Enterprises is offered in
different colour variants for better product differentiation, even for
small quantities. The actuator and outer sheath can themselves be of different colours. Thanks to an ergonomic
grip on the actuator the dispenser is
easy to operate.
Gerresheimer, who have three
plants producing moulded glass for
cosmetics (in Europe and China) will
phot: MWV
Lots of suppliers
and products
Pump in various colours for
better product differentiation
Sprayer with effortless actuation
and a continuous spray pattern
cavity at the top, provides elegant ergonomics to the pack, and allows more
convenience during application. The
new Amanda screw cap follows the
shape of the bottle.
MWV’s Aerosense Aerosol Sprayer
is an ergonomic aerosol sprayer designed for products such as sun care,
body spray deodorant and hair spray.
The sprayer, with effortless actuation
and a continuous, even spray pattern,
has a locking feature to prevent the
sprayer from unexpectedly activating
AM
in a bag or suitcase.
Web Tips
Dieter Bakic
Cosmetic Business
Gerresheimer
Lumson
MWV
www.bakic.com
www.cosmetic-business.com
www.gerresheimer.com
www.lumson.com
www.mwv.com
Cosmetic Business at a glance
On June 13th and 14th more than 370 exhibitors from 19 countries will be present at the
Cosmetic Business event in the Munich MOC, the international trade fair of the suppliers
to the cosmetics industry. 33 percent of the exhibitors are from outside Germany. There is
also a programme of supporting events offering new perspectives for successful marketing.
The extended range of exhibits now covers numerous contract manufacturers from Germany,
France, Italy and the Netherlands who will be represented at the exhibition for the first
time. There is also an increase in suppliers offering display material.
www.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair/ausstellerliste.php
COS1306_33_Pack_News_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.05.13 14:11 Seite 33
www.cossma.com
PACKAGING NEWS
NEWS
EVOH barrier for longer product life
photo: Quadpack
Quadpack I The tottles from the cosmetics packaging manufacturer
Quadpack have a multi-layer PE and EVOH coating that protects the product
formulation from oxygen contamination and, with their elastic flexibility, ensure that the last drop can be squeezed from the container. They are available in sizes from 5 ml to 180 ml and in various shapes from bowed to long,
elegant silhouettes. www.quadpack.net
MakeUp in Paris I MakeUp in Paris will host for the
fourth year in a row, on the 20th and 21st of June 2013 at
the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris. The event is aimed at
professionals from the formulation and packaging industry and also fullservice specialists and designers. The show is
also positioned
as a laboratory
where make-up
artists, technicians and trend
setters can mix
and show their
The universe of colour cosmetics
talents.
www.makeup-in-paris.com
New solution for visual analysis
of foam structure
photo: Krüss
Krüss I Krüss GmbH have demonstrated a module for the Dynamic
Foam Analyzer DFA100 which uses visual analysis of the structure of fluid
foams. The instrument, using image analysis, will define the number, size
and size distribution of a foam
structure created within the
device in a controlled manner.
The instrument‘s foam structure module uses a high definition camera with rapid series imaging in order to describe the structural changes
of the foam over time. Thus
internal destabilisation is
visible long before the foam
Structural changes in the foam over time
collapses.
www.kruss.d
in a nutshell
Shrink sleeves for colour cosmetics
Axon I Axon has supplied Avon Cosmetics in Celaya, Mexico,
with an innovative shrink sleeve labelling solution for lipstick, mascara, and eyeliner. The complete solution consists of an EZ-100H
horizontal shrink sleeve label applicator, an Axon hot air tunnel,
and an integrated roller conveyor. The applicator applies shrink
sleeve labels to small, unstable cylindrical products, such as lipsticks and pencils that are not easily conveyed standing on end.
The integrated roller conveyor rotates the cylindrical product during
the controlled heat shrink
process to ensure optimum shrink results.
The applicator is rated
between 60 and 70
units per minute with
cylindrical product diameters measuring
from 9mm to
28mm and film
lay-flat size
ranges from
18 mm to
For the accurate application of shrink
50 mm.
photo: Axon
Advanced
packaging
concept for
high-tech
formulations
photo: Dorothea Michaelis
All about colour cosmetics
Packaging
are analysed by rapid series imaging
PRODUCTION
www.axoncorp.com
sleeve labels to small cylindrical products
COS1306_34_Technotraf_GB_COS1306_34_Technotraf_GB 22.05.13 14:11 Seite 34
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PRODUCTION
PACKAGING
Wooden packaging?
Why not?
What are the challenges when using
wood for cosmetics packaging?
Jaume Ordeig, Sales
Director, Technotraf Wood
Packaging: First of all,
wood is a relatively unknown material for most
packaging developers. So in most projects, we have to guide and educate the
customer.
Wood is also a ‘live’ material, meaning that environmental changes like
temperature, humidity and exposure
to light have the potential to affect the
products. At Technotraf, we have
learned how to deal with these characteristics. We have developed a specific
technique for drying the wood to minimise these effects so our products
have a similar performance to other
materials used.
Also, as wood in itself provides no
functionality, a wooden cap, for instance, would need a plastic or metal
insert to enable it to fit on a pump or to
be screwed onto a bottle. We use either
standard or bespoke inserts to ensure
a perfect fit.
What were the most challenging examples of wood in cosmetics that you had
to realize?
The case of Issey Miyake’s L’Eau
d’Issey pour Homme clearly demon-
photos: Technotraf
Wood as a packaging material does not
spring to mind in the context of cosmetics
packaging. Jaume Ordeig from Technotraf
explains in an interview with COSSMA the
advantages of this living material.
A beechwood bottle made to look like driftwood with a pouch inside
strates the kind of challenges we face
in developing wooden components.
Wood fitted very well with the perfume’s brand positioning and the message of naturalness that it wanted to
convey. The aim was to use wood to
create a pack that would really catch
attention on the shelf.
The challenge here was two-fold:
the client wanted to maintain the same
external dimensions as those of the
original pack in glass, but the bottle
had to contain the same quantity of
100ml. The other aspect was that it had
to resemble driftwood.
Shiseido had come up with a technique of using a pouch for another bottle that was lacquered inside. We then
used the same technique for this project. However, the finished bottle size
had to be exactly the same as the glass
bottle, to fit into the same retail carton.
We had to test how far we could go on
carving out the massive block of wood,
which is the starting point, to make it
finally contain the perfume pouch.
We tuned the CNC milling machine
to get the right geometry. For the look
and feel, the idea was to make the pack
look as if it had been created by nature.
As driftwood itself is too unstable we
chose beech and then had to reproduce the effect in an industrial manufacturing context. This had never been
done before. We developed a new way
of machining the wood to enhance its
irregularities and its naturalness. We
stained it and varnished it and made it
look like real driftwood – each piece
being absolutely unique, with its singular characteristics, just like the person who wears the fragrance!
Finally, the product had to be
branded. With its curved and irregular
surface, our technicians searched for
the best type of ink and the best tools
to achieve a readable, high-definition
print. The end result was frankly quite
stunning.
What types of wood are particularly
suitable for the use in cosmetics packaging?
Many different species of wood can
be used, including beech, ash, pine,
oak, maple, cherry, walnut, wenge and
sapele. Those that are not suitable can
be emulated using techniques like
those we developed for L’Eau d’Issey.
How sustainable is wood packaging?
Wood has outstanding sustainability credentials, if sourced from managed forests. In fact, wood is the only
material that is endlessly renewable.
Its relatively short growth cycle means
it has the potential to yield a continuous supply indefinitely.
Exclusive cap designs in wood
34
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PACKAGING
At Technotraf, we use only PEFC
certified wood. This means that all our
wood not only comes from managed
forests, but also that its entire journey
from the forest to the pack is audited
on the PEFC chain of custody. In addition, 100% of the by-products are either recycled for chipboard or reused
as animal bedding or biomass fuels,
among other uses.
What are the advantages of wood in
contrast to other materials used for cosmetics and perfume?
There are several. Wood is an incredibly versatile material that can be
developed into any geometric shape
and any colour. It can be designed to
perfectly complement a bottle, jar or
container of another material. It can be
worked and decorated to respond to
most marketing briefs. It can be modern and trendy, as well as classic; it can
be both feminine and masculine. We
can run small and large batches. Moreover, in comparison to most of the materials used for packaging, wood has a
relatively fast development time and
no expensive moulds are required.
In addition, wood has sensory appeal i.e. a satisfying ‘touch and feel’
PRODUCTION
which makes each piece unique with
characteristics that are highly appreciated by luxury brands. What’s more, all
these advantages are found in a sustainable material!
In what product categories do you see
most potential, and why?
So far we have introduced wood
mainly in the perfumery sector. There is
a lot of scope for market expansion, as
wood can embrace most marketing
briefs. Now we are creating new wood
concepts in skin care and make-up. We
have already developed some intriguing projects, which we believe will set
new trends in the market. There is no
doubt that wood is a good choice
particularly for organic brands.
As wood steps away from being
merely trendy, it will take its place as
another long-term candidate among
other packaging materials. That is
when the use of wooden components
in beauty packaging will really take off.
What is the pricing in comparison to typical materials used for cosmetics and
perfume packaging?
Wood is generally affordable for
most masstige and prestige brands.
For bespoke projects, in particular,
Be bright !
Full coverage hot stamping
Metal-like effect
Colour cosmetics concept in wood
wood tends to compare very favourably. It depends on many things: what
material you compare it with, the project brief, quantities and so on. The
tooling costs for wood are very low as
moulds are rarely involved. In the final
analysis, in economic terms, wood is a
good material to consider for packaging developers.
Interview partner:
Jaume Ordeig, Sales Director
Technotraf Wood Packaging, Barcelona, Spain
Jaume@technotraf.com
www.technotraf.com
Helping
beauty
brands
perform
Amazing shelf appeal
Come and visit us at Cosmetic Business
13 - 14 June 2013
Hall 3 - Stand B04/08
Packaging is more than a container. Contact Quadpack today.
www.mega-airless.com
quadpack.net info@de.quadpack.net +49 (0)221 8888 57-0
COS1306_36_News_GB_COS1306_36_News_GB 23.05.13 07:21 Seite 36
www.cossma.com
PRODUCTION NEW INGREDIENTS
NEWS
Sustainable solutions for hair care
Enhancing the viscosity of
surfactant systems
Evonik I Tego Carbomer 841 SER (Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) is a novel cross-linked polyacrylic acid copolymer
designed to control the rheology of surfactant systems, especially for
very mild formulations based on sulfate-free and/or PEG-free surfactants. It is said to provide synergistic thickening in combination with
electrolytes and can be used for various personal cleansing systems.
It provides very good clarity in shampoos or body washes. Even low
level surfactant systems can be formulated with the new product.
Additionally it is compatible with cationics and creates stable viscosities over a
wide pHProvides clarity
range. The
in shampoos
high density
or body washes
powder is
easy to
handle and
is cold
processable.
photo: Hamster Man, Shutterstock.com
www.evonik.com
photo: Akzo Nobel
Ingredients
Akzo Nobel I Akzo Nobel has developed a range of sustainability
solutions that is said to improve raw material usage and manufacturing
processes. Biostyle CGP is a fixative styling polymer that combines
synthetic performance and sustainable technology. Naturally derived
Structure Style polymer is a non-GMO starch-based film former and
rheology modifier. 100% natural Amaze XT styling polymer is an easyto-use, multi-functional fixative and thickening/suspending agent. Readily biodegradable Armocare VGH-70 is a vegetable-based di-ester quaternary developed to meet the needs required of an exceptional hair
conditioning active. Naturally based Dry-Flo TS is a non-GMO, aluminium-free, modified
tapioca starch,
which is said to costeffectively enhance
the aesthetics of a
broad variety of skin
care products. Naturally derived Structure CEL polymers
are a family of cellulose derivatives that
can be used effectively in a variety of
Green solutions for
personal care syshair care products
tems. The new ingredients are fully or
partially derived from
renewable resources
and provide
biodegradability.
www.akzonobel.com/
personalcare
zellaerosol
since 50 Years specialised in the
Development – Manufacture – Filling – Packing of
Aerosols and Liquid Products
STÖLZLE
YOUR PRESTIGE GLASS PARTNER
www.stoelzle.com
왘 Certified to ISO 9001 and ISO 13485
왘 Licenced for pharmaceutical manufacturing operations in accordance with §13 of the german
drug act for human and veterinary medication
왘 Production and filling of pharmaceutical, medical,
cosmetic, household and technical products in
accordance with prevailing ATEX directive
왘 Planning, execution and documentation of clientexclusive development projects
왘 Consultancy and collaboration with clients in
compiling product data as required for the
Cosmetics Directive, Technical Files, and for
pharmaceutical approvals
왘 Full service management and completion of client
contracts from A to Z.
왘 . . . and lots more!
zellaerosol
Zellaerosol GmbH
Wiesenstraße 13
D-79669 Zell im Wiesental
Tel.: ++49 (0)7625/92 53 0
Fax.: ++49 (0)7625/92 53 14
and ner
ng part
o
r
e
t
a s eliabl
r
info@zellaerosol.de
www.zellaerosol.de
COS1306_36_News_GB_COS1306_36_News_GB 23.05.13 07:21 Seite 37
www.cossma.com
All-in-one solution and more
photo: Valua Vitaly, Shutterstock.com
BASF I Luviset One is the latest addition to BASF’s hair care portfolio. The all-in-one solution in the form of a silky, crystal clear gel base for
gels, creams and waxes, produces strong styling results and
has very good curl retention.
The hair care portfolio now includes the new Plantaquat NC
conditioner which is produced
from renewable resources and
so meets the increasing demand for high performance,
environmentally friendly hair
care products. Also new is PVP
(Polyvinylpyrrolidone) Luviskol
K 30 Super for styling gels that
exhibits an optimum colour
tone and a better viscosity
performance than standard
quality PVP.
www.basf.com
Ingredients for styling products and conditioners
The DERMATEST® promise:
Dow I EcoSense 3000 Surfactant (Decyl Glucoside), an addition to
Dow’s alkyl polyglucosides portfolio, offers formulators another readily
biodegradable surfactant for use in shamCreating mild, yet foamy formulations
poos and body washes. The EcoSense
family of products is
based on coconut
and palm oils, contains no added sulfates or preservatives,
and is said to help
formulators to create
mild shampoos and
body wash products
while still offering the
feel of plush, foamy washes that consumers prefer. Dow has developed
several starting point formulations as a resource for formulators who.
photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com
For biodegradable shampoos
We take your
success personally.
Our clients expect performance. And they get more than
that. Because our dermatologists are not only experts in the
labora-tory, but also in the day-to-day routine of dermatological
practice. Experience that leads to better test results.
Dermatest® takes your success personally: the right test for
every assignment. Tailor-made for the purpose and with precisely the required level of performance to achieve best results
www.dow.com
Dermatological-clinical application tests. Co-operation with other medical
specialities (ophthalmologist, gynecologist, paediatrician, dentist etc.) | Simple
photo: Lucas Meyer
Natural hair straightener
Lucas Meyer I Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has developed
Phytenso, a natural and soft alternative to chemical treatments,
to naturally straighten hair
while preserving its structure. It surrounds the hair
fibre and forms a sheathing
film that elongates the curl
through a mechanical action. It smoothes the hair
surface providing a healthy
look and a soft feel. In addition it locks out humidity
and reduces the appearance of frizz.
epicutaneous trials conducted in accordance with international guidelines |
TrichoScan hair analysis | Determining skin properties by means of confocal
laser scanning (VivaScope 1500 system) | Measuring the elasticity of the skin
(cutometry) | Determining the hydration and fat content of the skin (corneometry,
sebumetry) | Sun protection determination according to DIN and COLIPA |
Photo patch tests | Long-term (repetitive) epicutaneous tests | Safety assessment |
Measuring TEWL | Ultrasound examination of the skin (DermaScan C) |
Determining skin roughness using PRIMOS (optical 3-D assessment device) |
UVA protection in accordance with COLIPA standard | Human full-thickness
skin model for cosmetic testing of efficacy and tolerance
w w w. d e r m a t e s t . d e
www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
Surrounds the hair fibre
to form a sheathing film
®
dermatest
R E S E A R C H I N S T I T U T E F O R R E L I A B L E R E S U LT S
Ta k i n g y o u r s u c c e s s p e r s o n a l l y
COS1306_38_Preise_GB_COS1306_38_Preise_GB 22.05.13 14:12 Seite 38
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SERVICES INGREDIENTS
Essential oils: Current import prices in €/kg
June 2013
Amyris, Sandalwood, West Indies
Anethol from star anis oil
19.50 somewhat easier
Bergamot ”Reggio”
Buchu leaf ”Betulina”
42.00 still unchanged,
impending price increase
announced
87.50 firm
Prices ar ex-works Germany,
customs cleared in the EU
Note: The €/$ exchange rate has
an impact on several prices and
at times has a greater impact than
percentage price changes at
source.
350.00/590.00 very little movement
Cananga
67.00 still unchanged,
impending price increase
announced
Caraway, Balkan/Holland
38.50 steady
Cassia, China
38.00/53.00 variable, but with
variations in quality
(new/trad)
Cedarwood, China
15.00 firm
Cedarwood, Florida/Virginia
23.00 still unchanged
Cedarwood, Texas
21.00 still unchanged
Celery seed, India
95.00 stable
Citronella, China, 85/35%
18.00 stable
Citronella, Java, 85/35%
18.00 stable
Clove leaf, Madagascar
18.50/21.00 firm
Coriander
55.00/61.00 stabilised
Dill, Balkan
35.00/42.00 stable but inconsistent
Eucalyptol, min. 99% (1.8 cineol)
15.50 unchanged
Eucalyptus citriodora, Brazil, min. 75% 16.50 effectively unchanged
Limette, distilled, Mexico/West Indies
28.50 stable
Litsea cubeba, China, min. 75 %
18.00 unchanged
Menthol, China, BP/DAB
31.00 still very volatile
Menthol, India, known brands
30.00 still very volatile
Mint (Pepp. arv.), China
25.50 volatile, spot deals scarce
Mint (Pepp. arv.), India
25.50 volatile, spot deals scarce
Nutmeg, Indonesia
94.00/125.00 weaker
Nutmeg, Sri Lanka
89.00/115.00 tending to weaken a little
Orange, bitter
58.00 effectively no change
Orange, Brazil
4.30/4.95 very firm and scarce
Orange, Florida/Valencia, CP
4.50/5.15 firm and scarce
Palmarosa, East Indies
38.00 still no clear direction
Palmarosa, South America
42.00 still no clear direction
Parsley seed
Patchouli, Sumatra extra
Eucalyptus citriodora, China, min. 75% 17.50 effectively unchanged
Eucalyptus, China, 80/85%
11.50 unchanged
Pepper India
Eucalyptus staigeriana
23.50 unchanged
Peppermint, American
Fennel, seed
33.50/62.00 effectively unchanged
Geranium, Egypt
165.00 unchanged
59.00 still stable, price increase
announced
135.00/175.00 weaker
65.00/78.00 stable with weak
undertone
115.00 stabilised at a high level
at short term
Peppermint, India
Geranium, China
125.00 stabilised
Ginger, India/Cochin
130.00 stable for the moment
but with a firm undertone
Rosemary, North Africa,
Morocco/Tunisia
26.50/26.50 still unchanged,
new harvest imminent
Rosewood, Brazil
nom. 300.00 in theory none available
(CITES)
Grapefruit, white
Petitgrain, Paraguay
24.00/43.50 steady
Guaiacwood, Paraguay
21.00 unchanged
Howood, min. 85%
28.00–38.00 unchanged but good
Sage, Dalmatian, offic., 30%
Sandalwood, India
quality is still very scarce
Juniper berry
210.00/450.00 practically unchanged
Lavandin abrialis
26.00 steady
Lavandin grosso
24.50 steady
Lavender, Bulgaria
Lavender, France, 40/42%
75.00 practically unchanged
nom. 2,300.00 very firm, legally sold oil
almost unavailable
Spearmint, Am. Native/Scotch
49.00/51.00 steady with a firm
undertone
Spearmint, China, 60/80%
32.00/45.00 firm
75.00–95.00 big variations in quality!
Spruce needle, Siberia
23.50 unchanged, very attractive
nom. 130.00 steady
Star anis, China
16.50 eased somewhat
Lemon, Messina, winter harvest
21.00 steady
Vetiver, Haiti
190.00 stabilised
Lemon grass, Cochin, min. 75%
15.00 stabilised
Vetiver, Java
139.00 eased somewhat
38
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FORMULATIONS
Sun care
As the days grow longer it is of increasing importance to protect
oneself from the damaging effects of UV light. Here you will find a
wide range of formulations for which, if you find them interesting,
you can download the full details free of charge from our web site*.
These 39 formulations were submitted by 34 different ingredients
suppliers. Alongside conventional sun protection products in the
form of creams, gels or body, face and hair sprays, there are also
products to offer protection before and after exposure to the sun,
and self-tanners are also in the list.
T
hose wanting an ideal pretreatment before sun-bathing
should be interested in the Pre
Tan Body Lotion Eco from Dr. Straetmans or the Creamy Pre-Sun Gel from
Lubrizol.
Bayer MaterialScience AG
Contact:
Mr. Martin Hüttner
51368 Leverkusen, Germany
Phone: +49 (0) 2143081712
martin.huettner@bayer.com
www.bayercosmetics.com
Profile:
With 2012 sales of EUR 11.5 billion,
Bayer MaterialScience is among the
world’s largest polymer companies.
As the world leader in polyurethanes,
the company has a unique in-depth
know-how in production and synthesis. With Baycusan®, Bayer MaterialScience offers a product range of
polyurethane dispersions and
polyurea powder for a large number
of cosmetic applications. In their waterbased form they preform perfect
as a film forming polymer with outstanding properties. The polyurea
powder as a sensory additive offers
unique advantages in cosmetic formulations. At the end of 2012, Bayer
MaterialScience had 30 production
sites and employed approximately
14,500 people around the globe.
Bayer MaterialScience is a Bayer
Group company.
Formulas: – Sun Lotion SPF 30 (No. 8056)
– Sun Lotion SPF 30 (No. 8060)
– Sun Lotion SPF 50+ (No. 8059)
– Sun Spray SPF 50 with TiO2
– Sun Lotion SPF 50+ (No. 8067)
Waterproof Sun Gel
A. Brasca
High Water Sunscreen Lotion
Air Products
[
Berlin, Germany
24.09. - 25.09.
2013]
www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de
Downloads
All formulations can be found at
User name: cossma6
Password: hair
O/W Lightweight Sunscreen Lotion
SPF 30+ (expected)
Akzo Nobel
After Sun Gel “Cool”
Ashland
Water-resistant Sun Protection
Spray (expected) SPF 25
Biesterfeld
After Sun Shimmer
Brenntag
W/O Sunscreen Cream
Clariant
Repair & Care Après Cream (O/W)
CLR
Luxuriously Light Sunscreen
SPF 20
Croda
Non-nano Ecocert Broad Spectrum
Sunscreen
DKSH
Hair After Sun
Dow Corning
“Sun Velvet” Water Resistant Sun
Protection Cream (SPF 30)
Dow Personal Care
Pre Tan Body Lotion Eco
Dr. Straetmans
High Protection ‘SPF 30’
Water Resistant Sun Lotion
DSM
Sun Lotion
DSM
After Sun Shimmer Lotion –
„Beautiful Summer Skin“
Eckart
Light Suncare Cream
High Protection
Estenity
Sprayable Sun Protecting Hair Milk
Evonik
SERVICES
In our July/August issue the subject will
be hair care products, styling and
colour. In September body care will
be the focus. All of the information
published here has been carefully assembled; however neither
the publishers nor the developers of these formulations can
accept responsibility for their
safety or accuracy.
The hair too needs protection from
the sun, which may be achieved with,
for example, Hair After Sun by Dow
Corning, the Sprayable Sun Protecting
Hair Milk by Evonik or the Conditioner
with UV-Protection for Coloured Hair
from Zschimmer & Schwarz.
* Access codes to download the formulations can be
found in the Internet panel on this page.
Intensive Sun Protection Spray
Galaxy Surfactants
Sun Lotion SPF 15
GfN Selco
Solar Cream: Protection & Nutrition
Greentech
Here Comes the Tan Self-Tanning
Lotion
Honeywell
Transparent Sun Cream-O/W
Impag
Sunscreen SPF 50 (expected)
Inolex
O/W Sun Cream
Kahl
High SPF Shaker Ball Sun Cream
Kobo
Creamy Pre-Sun Gel
Lubrizol
Sun Lotion with Broad Spectrum
Capsules (O/W)
Merck
Sunscreen SPF 20 (exp.)
with Cyclodextrin
Nordmann, Rassmann
Honey After Sun Cream
Principium
Anti-ageing Day Cream with
Sun Filters
Sederma
Sunscreen Spray – SPF 30 (O/W)
Sisterna
O/W, SPF 30*, UVA /
UVB Balance, Waterresistant
Symrise
Conditioner with UV-Protection
for Coloured Hair
Zschimmer & Schwarz
NATURKOSMETIK
JAHRBUCH
s¬!KTUELLE¬4RENDANALYSE
s¬&UNDIERTES¬.ACHSCHLAGEWERK
s¬4OP¬(INTERGRUNDSBERICHTE
s¬¬"RANCHENADRESSEN
mehr Infos unter:
www.naturkosmetik-verlag.de
COS1306_40_Kalender_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.05.13 14:13 Seite 40
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
EVENTS
Fairs, conferences and seminars
When?
What?
10.–11.06.2013
InnoCos USA
10.–12.06.2013
CESIO Congress
11.06.2013
Workshop: Kosmetik GMP
12.–13.06.2013
Pack & Gift
12.–14.06.2013
13.–14.06.2013
Cosmetics Europe
General Assembly
CosmeticBusiness
13.–15.06.2013
Beauty Eurasia
15.–16.06.2013
BEAUTY FORUM ROMANIA
15.–18.06.2013
Cosmobeauté Asia
18.–20.06.2013
HBA Global Expo
19.06.2013
Betriebshygiene-Seminar:
Kosmetik-GMP
Jahreshauptversammlung
Sepawa LG Süd/Ost
MakeUp in Paris
20.–21.06.2013
20.–21.06.2013
26.–28.06.2013
04.–06.09.2013
Cosme Tokyo
Cosme Tech
International Conference
on Antioxidants
Cosmoprof
North America
Sydney International
Spa & Beauty Expo
European Aerosol
Conference
HairS’13
09.–11.09.2013
Cosmeeting
11.–13.09.2013
Flavors & Fragrances
Conference
Internationales
Marken-Kolloquium
HPCI Middle East
and Eurasia
InterCharm Ukraine
26.–28.06.2013
14.–16.07.2013
24.–25.08.2013
01.–06.09.2013
12.–13.09.2013
18.–19.09.2013
18.–20.09.2013
22.–25.09.2013
25.–26.09.2013
Conference on Innovation
in Drug Delivery
Pack Expo
Las Vegas
Naturkosmetik
Branchenkongress
MakeUp in New York
28.–29.09.2013
BEAUTY FORUM & Spa POLAND
09.–11.10.2013
SEPAWA Congress
09.–10.11.2013
BEAUTY FORUM Hair & Spa Hungary
23.–25.09.2013
24.–25.09.2013
40
COSSMA 6 I 2013
Where?
Who?
2013
New York
USA
Barcelona
Spain
Windhagen
Germany
Paris
France
Brussels
Belgien
Munich
Germany
Istanbul
Turkey
Cluj-Napoca
Romania
KGS Global
www.innocosevents.com
Cesio
www.cesio-congress.eu
cosmetic campus
www.cosmetic-campus.de
Idice
www.packandgift.com
Cosmetics Europe
www.cosmeticseurope.eu
Leipziger Messe GmbH
www.cosmetic-business.com/tradefair
Platform International
www.beautyeurasia.com
Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
www.beauty-forum.ro
Kuala Lumpur
Malaysia
New York
USA
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Essen
Germany
Paris
France
Tokyo
Japan
Marrakesh
Morocco
Las Vegas
USA
Sydney
Australia
Prague
Czech Republic
Lubeck
Germany
Paris
France
Leipzig
Germany
Seebruck
Germany
Istanbul
Turkey
Kiev
Ukraine
Lille
France
Las Vegas
USA
Berlin
Germany
New York
USA
Warsaw
Poland
ECMI
www.cosmobeauteasia.com
UBM Live
www.hbaexpo.com
cosmetic campus
www.cosmetic-campus.de
Sepawa
www.sepawa.com
Beauteam
contact@makeup-in-paris.com, www.makeup-in-paris.com
Reed Exhibitions Japan
cosmetics@reedexpo.co.jp, www.cosmetokyo.jp/en
ISANH
www.isanh-me.com
NABE
www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
Reed Exhibitions Australia
www.internationalbeautyexpo.com.au
Czech Aerosol Society
eac2013@cbttravel.cz, www.eac2013.cz
DWI an der RWTH Aachen
www.dwi.rwth-aachen.de
Beyond Beauty Events
www.cosmeeting.com
GDCh
www.gdch.de
Mandat
www.mandat.de
SÖFW
www.hpci-congress.com
ITE Group
www.intercharm.kiev.ua
APGI
www.apgi.org
PMMI
www.packexpo.com
naturkosmetik verlag
www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de
Beauteam
www.makeup-in-newyork.com
Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o.
info@health-and-beauty.com.pl, www.beauty-fairs.com.pl
Fulda
Germany
Budapest
Hungary
SEPAWA
www.sepawa.com
Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
www.beauty-fairs.hu
COS1306_41_BF_Muenchen_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.05.13 14:13 Seite 41
www.cossma.com
EVENTS
SERVICES
Successful exhibition in Leipzig
BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG I The third BEAUTY FORUM LEIPZIG
on the 13th and 14th of April 2013 enjoyed an increase in visitor number
by about 4 percent, attracting 8,200 trade professionals. Alongside the
newest developments, presented by some 300 exhibitors and brands,
there was a wide range of specialist training opportunities including trade
congresses, workshops, company and specialist presentations, plus national and international championships and competitions. At the podology and cosmetology congresses there was also an increase in congress
delegates, reflecting the significant demand for onward training in the
sector. The cosmetology congress on the subject of anti-ageing, moderated by COSSMA editor Angelika Meiss, was very much a focus for new
types of actives, skin care and apparative treatments. It attracted over
140 delegates and resulted in an overwhelmingly positive feedback.
www.beauty-fairs.de/leipzig
natürlicher duft
für parfümfreie hautpflege
oléoSense
photo: Health and Beauty, Robert Gruber
sinnliche dreifachwirkstoffkomplexe
There was very positive feedback
on the topic of anti-ageing
Autumn event for beauty
professionals
oléo sense™ iris
oléo sense™ myrrhe
oléo sense™ vanille
oléo sense™ zimt
oléo sense™ weihrauch
oléo sense™ tonka
photo: Noel Fäskorn
Come to Munich, and show
that your latest developments
are simply irresistible ...
BEAUTY FORUM
MUNICH I October 26th and 27th
2013 are, this year, the dates that
will attract professional beauticians
to the 28th BEAUTY FORUM
MUNICH. This is where you have
the opportunity, as an exhibitor,
to show just how innovative your
range is. You will also be welcome
to talk about the details of your
products and/or services in an informative trade presentation.
At the BEAUTY POINT and FOOT
POINT meeting points there are to
be professional discussions, company dissertations and on-stage
events all on the topics of cosmetics and foot care, updating visitors
on the latest developments.
patentierte oléo-eco-extraktion
BEAUTY FORUM
MUNICH:
Dates: 26th and 27th October 2013
Location:
Messe München International
Openinghours:
Saturday: 09.00h – 18.00h
Sunday: 09.00h – 17.00h
Organiser:
Information:
www.beauty-fairs.de/muenchen
Advance ticket sales: from June 2013
Feuchtigkeit, Schutz und Reparatur der Hautbarriere
100% natürliche Extrakte mit niedrigem Allergen-Gehalt,
Synergistische Komplexe aus pflanzlichen Ölen, Buttern,
Wachsen und klassischen Duft-Pflanzen
Standardisiert bzgl. Biophenolen, Essentiellen Fettsäuren,
unverseifbaren Anteilen und Allergenen
Entwickelt mit Parfumeuren
www.mani-gmbh.de/oleosense
727-11_EA_COS_e-paper_A4_GB_Layout 1 23.05.13 07:49 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
Trends
Statements
Innovation
E-paper
Super gift for new subscribers:
Samsonite Laptop Case
Order today your Cossma
E-paper version!
For 99,– EUR per year you get the COSSMA PDF version English and
German issue incl. full access to the online archive of the German,
French, Spanish, Russian and English pdf-Versions (Special PDF editions
in French, Spanish, Russian are published for special occassions)
Order today, at www.cossma.com/subscription
or via the hotline: +49 (0)721 165-131
Health and Beauty Business Media GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Deutschland
leserservice@health-and-beauty.com Tel: +49 (0)721 165-131 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103
COS1306_43_IBF_GB_COS1306_43_IBF_GB 23.05.13 13:53 Seite 43
www.cossma.com
INTERNATIONAL B2BEXCHANGE
SERVICES
Go to
www.cossma.com/
b2bexchange
B2B Exchange: Find your
business partners of tomorrow today!
for more information
about suppliers and
their products
COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new
business contacts.
All our business partners can use this "International B2B
Exchange".
Have a look at the entries below now and
find your business partner of tomorrow today!
Further information: see www.cossma.com/b2b-exchange
(a =NEW!)
Wish to export their products
abalico
D-69469 Weinheim, Germany
Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel
info@abalico.de; www.abalico.de
Products: Cosmetic products
for hand and nail
wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB
Akzent direct GmbH
D-63571 Gelnhausen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Reiner Schmidt
info@akzent-direct.com;
www.akzent-direct.com
Products: Nail Design, Permanent Make-Up
wish to export to: Asia, AUS, Africa, Near East,
P, E, I
Beauty Line Consulting
D-76698 Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany
Contact: Janos Stegena
info@belico.de
www.belico.de
Products: skin and body Care products,
private label, bulk
wish to export to: worldwide
beauty lumis GmbH
D- 80995 München, Germany
Contact: Angela Frommer
a.frommer@beautylumis.com
www.byonik.net
Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and
cosmetic products
DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH
D-38106 Braunschweig, Germany
Contact: Mira Fischbach
COSMETIC@BELTER.de
www.BELTER.de
Products: skin and body care cosmetics
GERTRAUD GRUBER
KOSMETIK GmbH & Co.
D-83700 Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany
Contact: Roland Schäfer
rschaefer@gruber-kosmetik.de
www.gertraudgruber.de
Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produktund Anwendungskonzept auf Naturbasis
der 1. Beautyfarm Europas.
Klapp Cosmetics GmbH
Guderma GmbH
D-59192 Bergkamen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf
guderma@web.de
www.fusspunkt.de
Products: Skin Care Products for dry und
very dry skin
Heitland & Petre International
GmbH (ROSA GRAF)
D- 29229 Celle, Germany
Contact: Saskia Schneider
saskia.schneider@heitland.com
www.heitland.com
Products: skin care products, wellness & spa treatments
House of Melchiorsen
DK-4700 Naestved, Denmark
Contact: Annelise Langhorn
langhorn@houseofmelchiorsen.com
www.susanne-melchiorsen.com
Products: Natural Skin Care products and herbal
teas – made of biodynamic herbs from
own d herbs-garden.
Wish to export to: Worldwide
Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH
Dr. GRANDEL GmbH
PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic
D-86150 Augsburg, Germany
Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler
juergen.geisler@grandel.de
www.grandel.de
Products: Skin care products,
wish to export to: GB, GUS, TR, TW, S. America
IONTO-COMED GmbH
D-76137 Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Export
export@ionto.de
www.ionto.de
Products: cosmetic and footcare technology
D-78229 Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Ms. Renate Karner
r.karner@praxis-cosmetic.de
www.praxis-cosmetic.de
Products: Skin and Body Care
Cosmetics, Ampoules,
Decorative cosmetics
wish to export to: EU + worldwide
D- 37235 Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany
Contact: Fernando Duarte
f.duarte@Klapp-cosmetics.com
www.klapp-cosmetics.com
Products: Cosmetic products,
SPA collection series
wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia
NEOVITA COSMETICS
D-69256 Mauer, Germany
Contact: Karina Grimm
IS@neovita.de
www.neovita.de
Products: Premium Skin Care products for
professionals
Dr. med Christine Schrammek
Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG
D-45127 Essen, Germany
Contact: Birgit Schmitz
b.schmitz@schrammek.de
www.schrammek.de
Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings
wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA
TANA Cosmetics
D-33602 Bielefeld, Germany
Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co.KG
Mr. Ronald Fortmann
info@tana-cosmetics.com
www.tana-cosmetics.com
Products: Colour cosmetics,
Cosmetic products for self tanning
wish to export to: E, F, DK, S
COSSMA 6 I 2013
43
COS1306_44_GB_Einstieg_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB_Einstieg 23.05.13 13:56 Seite 44
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SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Suppliers Guide Alphabetical Listing
On the following pages you will find a selection of suppliers to the cosmetics
industry. The listing is in alphabetical order based on the English section
headings. To make it easier for you to find what you are looking for we have
listed the German section headings below, with their English equivalents.
A detailed supplier listing can be found starting on page 43ff. You can also
find a full overview, with a search function, at www.cossma.com/guide
Should your company be listed here?
Send an e-mail to dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com
We will be glad to send you details of terms and prices
German Heading
see
Abfüll- und Verschließmaschinen
Adeps Lanae
Ätherische Öle
Airless Systeme
Aloe Vera
Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse
Ampullenabfüllung
Avocadobutter
Avocadoöl
Filling and Crimping Machines
Adeps Lanae
Essential Oils
Airless Systems
Aloe Vera
Aluminium Seal Closures
Ampul Filling
Avocadobutter
Avocado Oil
Boragesamenöl
Borage Seed Oil
Chitosan
Chitosan
Dermatologische + klinische Tests
Dichtemessung von Cremes,
Flüssigkeiten und Aerosolen
Dermataogical + Clinical Tests
Density Measurement of
Creams, Liquids and Aerosols
Etiketten
Etuis für die dekorative Kosmetik
Labels
Pouches a. Cases f. Colour Cosmetics
Fettsäure-Ester Flüssigkeitszerstäuber und Sprühpistolen
Formen und Kunststoffteile
Fatty Acid Esters
Dispensers and Trigger Pumps
Molds and Plastic Parts
Glittereffekte
Hagebuttenkernöl
Hyaluronsäure Natrium
Glitter Effects
Rose Hip Oil
Hyaluronic Acid Sodium
Johanniskrautöl Hacoba
Jojobaperlen
Jojobaöl
St. John’s Wort Oil /Hypericum Oil
Jojobabeads/Grains/Pearls
Jojoba Oil
Karmin
Kosmetik-Farbstoffe
Kosmetik-Rohstoffe
Carmine
Cosmetics Colorants
Cosmetics Raw Materials
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae),
Wollwachs, -alkohole
pestizidarm
Lohnabfüllung
Lohnherstellung Arzneimittel
und Kosmetika
Lohnherstellung und Verpackung
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae),
Low Pesticide Wool Wax,
Wool Alcohols
Contract Filling
Contract Manufacturing
Pharmaceuticals and Cosmetics
Manufacturing + Packaging
Makadamianussöl
Mandelöl
Mischkugeln für Aerosole
Molch-Reinigungssysteme
Macadamia Nut Oil
Almond Oil
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Pig Clearing Systems
Nachtkerzenöl
Evening Primrose Oil
Oleochemicals
Olivenbutter
Olivenöl
Oleochemicals
Olivebutter
Olive Oil
Parfümöl
Pumpen für die Produktion
Rizinusöl
Perfume Oil
Pumps for the production process
Castor Oil
Sesamöl
Sheabutter
Spraysysteme
Sesame Oil
Shea Butter
Spray Systems
Verpackungen
Packaging
Weizenkeimöl
Wirkstoffe für Kosmetika
Wollwachs
Wheat Germ Oil
Actives for Cosmetics
Wool Wax
✂
✂
ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE:
Fax +49 (0) 721 165-227
Start winning tomorrow’s customer today
with your entry in the suppliers’ guide
width of column:
price per mm height:
for a period of:
advertising deadline:
43 mm
€ 3,10
1 year
10th day of each month before
publication
❑ Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers’
guide at a price of € 3,10 per column mm for each entry.
You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax.
Company:
Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad:
Category/ies:
Height i. mm:
To be first published in issue:
❑ 07-08/2013 ❑ 09/2013
contact:
❑ 11/2013
❑ 12/2013
❑ 1 year
❑ test: 3 month
❑ black and white
❑ 10/2013
❑ 01/2014
Street, P.O. Box:
For a period of:
Post Code, City:
❑ Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone
(including mobile phone), by e-mail, or in writing!
Country:
phone:
fax:
44
mm
❑ 4 colour (Euro scale)
COSSMA 6 I 2013
date, signature
COS1306_45_BQ_GB_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 23.05.13 13:57 Seite 45
www.cossma.com
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Adeps Lanae
Adeps Lanae
Ampul Filling
Ampullenabfüllung
Contract Filling
Lohnabfüllung
Aerosol-Qualitätsabfüllung
im Rhein-Main-Gebiet
Lohnabfüllung
Konfektionierung
Verpackung
Versand
Produktentwicklung
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH
28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
www.wagnerlanolin.com
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Mischkugeln für Aerosole
SERVICES
Eigene Rezepturen
Zink-Spray
Alu-Spray
Schmierspray
Techn. Aerosole
W + S Aerosoltechnik GmbH
Am Sportplatz 5
63791 Karlstein
Tel. 0 61 88 / 95 75 13
Fax 0 61 88 / 95 75 44
Ein Unternehmen der Firmengruppe
Fischer
Ampullenabfüllung GbR
Abfüllung in
1 ml bis 20 ml-Glasampullen
Wir bieten auch
Konfektionierung an!
SiLibeads
®
glass balls for
aerosol sprays
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone(++49)9277-99410·Fax(++49)9277-99499
E-Mail: sili@sigmund-lindner.com
www.sili.eu
Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera
Rufen Sie uns an:
Fischer Ampullenabfüllung GbR
Am Sportplatz 5
D-76479 Steinmauern
Tel.: ++49 (0) 72 22 / 2 36 26
Fax: ++ 49 (0) 72 22 / 2 54 91
info@ampullenabfuellung.de
www.ampullenabfuellung.de
Lohnabfüllung
Zellaerosol GmbH
Wiesenstraße 13
D-79669 Zell/Wiesental
Telefon 0 76 25 / 92 53-0
Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-14
E-Mail: info@zellaerosol.de
Internet: www.zellaerosol.de
Advertising
Carmine
Karmin
Hotline
+49 (0)721 165-144
Aluminium Seal Closures
Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse
Certification
Zertifizierung
+ Packaging
Made in Germany
Für Sie....
Entwickeln und produzieren wir
Cremes, Gele, Liquida u.v.m.
Konfektionieren in Ampullen, Tiegel,
Flaschen, Tuben
GMP-gerecht mit eigenen
Kontroll-Laboren (Mibi und Analytik)
Please note:
Issue 07-08/2013
Consulting
Beratung
Alu-Siegelverschlüsse
Alu-Folien
• für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter
• in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage
• in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck
• Qualität seit 1957
DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG
Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung
57319 Bad Berleburg
Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25
We take care of
your cosmetics.
Your service provider in the
healthcare industry:
www.diapharm.com
Hinter der Mauer 4a | D-07407 Rudolstadt
Fon: 03672426120 | Fax: 03672426175
info@artefactum.biz
Publishing date:
07.08.2013
HIRTLER SEIFEN GmbH
Advertising deadline:
28.06.2013
Please do not
hesitate to contact us if you
have any further questions
Call: Dorothea Michaelis
+49 (0)721 165-144
Quality bar soap
for personal care
Seit 125 Jahren entwickeln und
stellen wir her
•
•
•
•
Feinseifen (Stückseifen),
Syndets und Combars,
Seifengranulate und -nudeln,
Rohglycerin
und exportieren in alle Welt.
HIRTLER SEIFEN GmbH
Beiersdorfstraße 1 79423 Heitersheim
Tel.: 0 76 34/51 00-0 Fax: 0 76 34/51 00-99
www.hirtler.com0
COSSMA 6 I 2013
45
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
+ Packaging
Pharmac. + Cosmetics
Cosmetic Ingredients
Kosmetik-Rohstoffe
Cosmetic Spatulas
Kosmetik-Spatel
innovativ
kompetent
zuverlässig
Entwicklung, Bulkherstellung, Konfektionierung
Aerosole, Kosmetik, Pharmazeutik/OTC,
Medizin- und Haushaltsprodukte
GANZ EINFACH:
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Lättichstrasse 4
Postfach 1063
CH-6341 Baar
Tel 0041 (0)41 768 0202
Fax 0041 (0)41 768 0200
info@trichema.ch
www.trichema.ch
go Meding GmbH
Kruppstraße 8 · D-58553 Halver
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Fax: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 - 28
info@meding.com
www.meding.com
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von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta,
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web:
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WAGENER & CO
GANZ EINFACH : LEISTUNG.
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RF
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46
COSSMA 6 I 2013
Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen
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SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
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11
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VERPACKUNGEN · ETUIS
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big choice on stock
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Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven
Fon: +49 (0)471/ 98 40 10
Fax: +49 (0)471/ 98 40 140
www.symex.de
Food Supplements
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privatebrand.ch
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in plastic, glass, aluminium
caps, pumps, sprayers, pipettes
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www.pack-it.de
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Verpackungen aus Glas und Kunststoff
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®
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Siebdruck ab 300 Stück
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COSSMA 6 I 2013
47
COS1306_48_Verzeichnis_GB_COS1306_48_Verzeichnis_GB 23.05.13 13:55 Seite 48
www.cossma.com
Advertisers’
Index
Company
Index
bi packaging Zhejiang B.I. I/E CO.,LTD.
www.bi-packaging.com
p. 13
bomo trendline
www.bomo-trendline.de
p. 15
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
www.cognis.com
pp.16, 17
CLR Chem. Laboratorium
Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
www.clr-berlin.com
Clariant International Ltd
www.clariant-personalcare.com
Coradin SAS Plastic Injection Molding
www.conradin.com
DERMATEST GmbH
www.dermatest.de
Diapharm GmbH & Co. KG
www.diapharm.de
Dr. Spiller Biocosmetic GmbH
www.dr-spiller.com
DSM Nutritional Products
www.dsm.com
Flux Geraete GmbH
www.flux-pumpen.de
GRAFE Advanced Polymers GmbH
www.grafe.com
Greentech GmbH
www.greentechgmbh.de
Heinz Plastics Deutschland
www.heinz-plastics.com
IMPAG Import GmbH
www.impag.de www.impag.eu
Kosmetik Konzept GmbH
www.kosmetik-konzept.eu
Krüss GmbH
www.kruss.de
AkzoNobel
www.akzonobel.com/pcp
Alberto Culver
www.alberto
Amazon Locker
www.amazon.com
Avon
www.avon.com
p: 52
Axon
www.axoncorp.com
p. 27
Azelis
www.azelis.com
p. 2
p. 37
p. 7
p. 42
p. 5
Balance Me
www.balanceme.co.uk
BASF
www.basf.com
BSB Cosmetic
www.bsb-cosmetic.de
Cobiosa
www.cobiosa.com
Codif
www.codif-recherche-et-nature.com
p. 19
Cosmetic Business
www.cosmetic-business.com
p. 29
Cosmopolitan Cosmetics
www.pg.com
p. 11
p. 32
p. 9
p. 12
p. 8
Cosnova
www.cosnova.de
Croda
www.croda.com
CVUA
www.cvua-karlsruhe.de
Datamonitor
www.datamonitor.com
Dieter Bakic
www.bakic.com
District Two Cosmetics
www.district-two.com
Lipo Chemicals Inc
www.lipochemicals.com
p. 21
Mani GmbH Chemische Produkte
www.mani-gmbh.com
p. 41
MegaPlast GmbH
www.megaplast.de
p. 35
naturkosmetik konzepte
www.naturkosmetik-konzepte.de
p. 39
OTTO Cosmetic GmbH
www.otto-cosmetic.de
Estée Lauder
www.esteelauder.com
p. 7
Paul Kaders GmbH
www.paulkaders.de
Euromonitor
www.euromonitor.com
p. 8
Evonik
www.evonik.com/personal-care
Dow
www.dow.com
DSM
www.dsm.com
Escada Beauté
www.escada.com
Quadpack Germany GmbH
www.quadpack.net
p. 35
Stölzle-Oberglas GmbH
www.stoelzle.com
Fragrance Foundation
www.fragrance.org
p. 36
topac GmbH
www.topac.de
Gerresheimer
www.gerresheimer.com
p. 33
Zellaerosol GmbH
www.zellaerosol.de
GfK
www.gfk.com
p. 36
Henkel
www.henkel.com
48
COSSMA 6 I 2013
p. 36
ICADA
www.icada.eu
p. 18
IKW
www.ikw.org
p. 18
Impag
www.impag.de
p. 33
In-Cosmetics
www.in-cosmetics.com
p. 33
Information & Inspiration
www.info-inspiration.com
p. 8
pp. 3, 18
In-Trend
www.in-trend-ltd.com
Irati International
www.irati-international.fr
pp. 8, 18, 36
Issey Miyake
www.isseymiyake.com
p. 8
Jean-Claude Biguine
www.biguine.com
p. 12
John Lewis
www.johnlewis.com
p. 8
Kal’Idées
www.kalidees.com
p. 32
Kerastase
www.kerastase.com
p. 8
Kline & Company
www.klinegroup.com
pp. 3, 18
Kneipp
www.kneipp.de
p. 18
Krüss
www.kruess.com
p. 30
L‘Oréal
www.loreal.com
p. 18
La Roche-Posay
www.laroche-posay.com
p. 32
Lucas Meyer
www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com
p. 8
p. 36
pp. 10, 18
Lumson
www.lumson.com
MakeUp in Paris
www.makeup-in-paris.com
Mani
www.mani-gmbh.com
p. 8
May Department
www.mayco.com
pp. 8, 18
Medena for Skin
www.medena.ch
pp. 18, 24
pp. 8, 36
Merck
www.merck4cosmetics.com
Mibelle
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
p. 8
Mintel
www.mintel.com
p. 32
MWV
www.mwv.com
pp. 3, 28
p. 8
Naturkosmetik Konzepte
www.naturkosmetik-konzepte.de
Organic Monitor
www.organicmonitor.com
p. 8
Oriflame
www.oriflame.com
p. 8
p. 30
P&G
www.pg.com
p. 12
Parlux
www.parlux.com
p. 8
pp. 3, 18
Perfumania
www.perfumania.com
p. 8
p. 18
Pierre Fabre
www.pierre-fabre.com
p. 18
p. 18
Primavera Naturkosmetik
www.primaveralife.com
p. 8
Protec Ingredia
www.proteingredia.com
p. 8
p. 34
Provital
www.provital.org
p. 8
p. 14
Quadpack
www.quadpack.net
p. 33
p. 18
Quantis
www.quantis-intl.com
p. 18
p. 8
Rahn
www.rahn-group.com
p. 8
p. 8
p. 14
Rhc advantage
www.rhcadvantage.co.uk
p. 18
Sanoflore
www.sanoflore.com
pp. 8, 18
p. 18
p. 8
Schwarzkopf
www.schwarzkopf.com
p. 14
Sen by Kim Robinson
www.senbykimrobinson.com
p. 14
pp. 15, 18
Sephora
www.sephora.com
p. 18
p. 8
Shiseido
www.shiseido.com
p. 34
pp. 8, 26
p. 33
p. 36
Silab
www.silab.fr
p. 8
p. 32
SIT
www.sit-skin.com
p. 8
p. 33
Soliance
www.soliance.com
p. 12
p. 8
SpringPool
www.springpool.de
p. 18
p. 8
Symrise
www.symrise.com
p. 8
p. 8
Technotraf
www.technotraf.com
p. 8
Top Shop
www.topshop.com
p. 18
p. 8
Trichema
www.trichema.ch
p. 8
Vetia Floris
www.vetiafloris.com
p. 8
p. 32
Vidal Sassoon
www.sassoon.com
p. 14
p. 26
YSL Beauté
www.ysl.com
p. 18
Zschimmer & Schwarz
www.zschimmer-schwarz.com
pp. 14, 18
pp. 3, 34
p. 8
pp. 3, 24
COS1306_49_Impressum_GB_COS1306_49_Impressum_GB 23.05.13 07:20 Seite 49
www.cossma.com
Trends
Statements
Innovation
Masthead
Page
E-mail newsletter order
The
Team
Volume 14 ISSN 1439-7676
Published by Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp
Assistant: Phone: +49 721 165-311
Address Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA
P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Editorial Staff Legally responsible party and Senior Editor:
Angelika Meiss
Phone: +49 721 165-169
E-mail: angelika.meiss@health-and-beauty.com
Managing Director
Jürgen Volpp
Advisory Board François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel,
Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt,
Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes,
Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern
Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis
Phone: +49 721 165-144
E-mail: dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com
Advertising Services: Ruth Reif
Phone: +49 721 165-232, Fax: +49 721 165-148
The current list of advertising rates is dated
1st of Jan. 2013.
Senior Editor
Angelika Meiss
+49 721 165-169
Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Service kundenservice@health-and-beauty.com
Phone: +49 721 165-162, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Published: 10 issues per year
COSSMA: formerly “Parfümerie und Kosmetik“ and
“Aerosol and Spray Report“
Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates:
Rates Germany: € 192; outside Germany: € 198.
Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm
by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the
subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in
advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable.
Design/ Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Production Ulrich Hanke
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18, 76133 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-592
ISDN (Leonardo): +49 721 165-696
Advertising Sales
Dorothea Michaelis
+49 721 165-144
Printing Kraft Druck GmbH
Industriestr. 5-9, 76275 Ettlingen, Germany
that Health and Beauty Germany GmbH may contact
me
J by mobile phone
J by e-mail
J in writing
J by telephone/fax
with news from the industry and to tell me about interesting offers. If I do not wish to receive further information, I will communicate this to Health and Beauty.
Please fill in completly in capital letters or add your business card:
@
International Representatives
Hungary Health and Beauty Business Media Kft.
Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház)
1016 Budapest, Hungary
Phone: +36 1 457006600, Fax: +36 1 2013248
E-mail: azsilak@health-and-beauty.hu
Italy Zero Venti
Loris Sparti
Via Giuseppew Luigi Passalacqua, 4
10122 Torino, Italy
Phone: +39 348 2247176
E-mail: loris.sparti@zeroventi.com
Advertising Support
Ruth Reif
+49 (0)721 165-232
z Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree
Poland Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.o.o.
Malgorzata Szulc, ul. Kubickiego 9/3
02-954 Warsaw, Poland
Phone: +48 22 8587955, Fax: +48 22 8587953
E-mail: malgorzata.szulc@health-and-beauty.com.pl
USA and Canada D.A. Fox Advertising Sales Inc.
Detlef Fox
19th Floor 5 Penn Plaza
New York, NY NY 10001, USA
Phone: +1 212 896-3881
Fax: +1 212 629-3988
E-mail: detleffox@comcast.net
E-mail
First name, family name
Company
Street address
Postcode, city, country
Date and signature
© Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Karlsruhe 2013
Graphics
Ulrich Hanke
+49 (0)721 165-592
The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Nevertheless, no responsibility is accepted for any
errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is
copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the
subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations,
microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade
names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no
authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands
may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified
as such in the magazine.
Order today:
Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany
leserservice@health-and-beauty.com
Tel: +49(0) 721 165-131 Fax: +49(0) 721 165-103
COS1306_50_Vorschau_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 22.05.13 14:13 Seite 50
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
Trend statement
Current hair care trends
PREVIEW
light passing through can illuminate every colour-tone from
within, so that the hair colour looks very luminous and natural as if uncoloured, and has a healthy feel.
Another trend is that people today are more interested in
products with an improved skin sensitization profile. Even
though hair colour allergies happen very rarely (0.5%– 1%
of population), it is an important topic at the salon. Wella has
screened thousands of molecules over the years to find new
potential ingredients for hair dye that have a reduced allergy
profile and the company will continue working on this until
the right solution is found for a reduced allergy profile and
great colour performance.
www.wella.com
photo: Wella
There is a large global hair trend towards natural hair looks, natural hair
colours, etc. Wella scientists have
been trying to understand specific
natural ways that would allow hairdressers and consumers to be able to
develop appropriate technologies.
Having done appropriate research
Maria Castan,
with hairdressers and clients we have
Global Senior Scienlearned that no one wants to have
tist Wella, Hair Color,
“natural grey hair” or “natural damCare & Styling
aged hair”, but wants to look naturally beautiful and for that they were willing to go through the
beauty transformation. We realized that the trend was about
looking natural rather than being natural.
Some of our research has been based on obtaining hair that
looks and feels natural, even when coloured. One result was
Illumina Color with a complete new colour formulation containing MicroLight technology. The longer the hair is, the
more impurities, such as tiny metal particles, are left as a
residue from the water and can stick to the cuticles. During
the colouring process these tiny metal particles can form
free radicals which may damage the cuticle surface so that
the cuticle itself is no longer transparent. When light then interacts with the hair it gets diffused and cannot reflect the
colour with the same intensity, translating into less luminosity and less natural colour. EDDS, the key ingredient in
MicroLight technology, encapsulates these tiny particles
from the water in which the hair is washed, reducing cuticle
damage and keeping the hair surface transparent. Thus the
During the colouring process tiny metal particles forming free radicals can damage the cuticle surface so that the colour cannot be
reflected with the same intensity
July/August 2013
Product development
Plus:
+++ Natural cosmetics – still a boom market?
+++ Freshly updated: market survey of ingredients
suppliers +++ In-Cosmetics review: the important
new ingredients at a glance +++
COSSMA 7-8/2013 is published on August 7th, 2013
50
COSSMA 6 I 2013
photo: Gorilla Images, Shutterstock.com
Heinz-Jürgen Weiland,
management research and
development, Logocos,
explains which trends
will impact on natural
cosmetics in the future
Natural ingredients packed with power
Focus: Natural cosmetics
100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk_100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk 23.05.13 13:49 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
www.cossma.com/suppliers
Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry –
news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:
www.a-o-t.com
Find tomorrow’s
suppliers today!
www.cherbsloeh.de
www.kemacos.com
www.otto-cosmetic.de
www.diapharm.de
www.akzonobel.com/
detergents
www.rationator.com
www.meding.com
www.neopac.ch
www.flavex.com
www.gerschon.de
www.mawi-chemie.de
PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY
www.lanxess-distribution.com
Your Logo
here
€ 60,–
www.lohn-pack.com
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
www.nordtek.hu/en
www.yourcompany.com
www.trichema.ch
www.brenntag-gmbh.com
www.ampullenabfuellung.de
www.zellaerosol.de
www.seufert.com
www.pro-beauty-production.de
www.hhac.de
www.novel-care.de
www.cplaromas.com
www.neocos.com
www.derschlag.com
www.privatebrand.ch
www.unionpack.de
www.systemkosmetik.de
www.Kosmetik-Konzept.eu
www.pack-it.de
www.riwa-display.de
www.etol.de
www.temmentec.ch
www.rusi.de
www.lutz-packaging.de
www.ballerstaedt.de
www.kautz-design.com
www.hirtler.com
www.symex.de
www.siriusmaschinen.de
www.domino-deutschland.de
www.intracosmed.ch
www.rettner.de
You can find further information of these
suppliers@www.cossma.com/suppliers as well
as on their homepages (see Url below the logos).
Your logo can be listed here for just € 60,– per month
– for further information, please contact
Dorothea Michaelis
dorothea.michaelis@health-and-beauty.com
phone +49 (0)721 165-144
COS1306_CLR_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 23.05.13 07:41 Seite 1
www.cossma.com

Focus: Hair care

Transcription

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