Beyond Indulgence

Beyond
Indulgence
bbpublications
Introduction
This book is not a travel destination guide,
nor a compilation of advertorials. Rather, it is
an intimate and subjective take on that which is
beyond mere “luxury”, a word whose currency
has become utterly devalued in the last decade
of over-zealous PR posturing.
We have sought to provide our particular
readership – defined by sophistication and welltravelled by definition – with a helpful and, we
hope, intelligently written, beautifully presented
book on places that exemplify the title, Beyond
Indulgence.
While we are unashamedly subjective (we know
our readership well and are aware of what they
appreciate), our selection is not arbitrary.
Alongside some of the perennials – legendary
hotels and destinations – we have profiled
others that possess that intangible “beyond”
quality by virtue of their elegance, simplicity,
atmosphere or ecological purity.
In an industry that sells fantasy, each of the
profiled excels at making the fantasy that
much more potent and the experience more
memorable.
This time, we have also included interviews
with some giants of the travel and hospitality
industries. Whether the discerning traveller is
aware of their names or not, the fact remains
that they are the true purveyors of one of man’s
Author: Nick Artsruni
978-1-905904-30-3
First published in January 2014
by Beyond Black
BB Publications
Suite 7, 40 Craven Street
Charing Cross
London, WC2N 5NG
UK
oldest and most enduring of passions: that of
discovering the world and its wonders.
Beyond Indulgence
CONTENTS
Worldwide
Into Africa
The Quintess Collection
Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve
Ian Schrager
The Royal Mansour
Hotelier and Entrepreneur
Kasbah du Toubkal
Europe
Riad El Fenn
Capri Palace Hotel
Kensington Place
Palazzetto 113
Yenn Wong
Fattoria La Vialla
Ca Maria Adele
Ski Switzerland
The Alpina
Carlton Hotel St Moritz
Chesa Lumpaz
Pierre Yves Rochon
Hotelier and Restaurateur
Into Asia
Tugu Bali
Shreyas Retreat
Villa Maya
Residence on the Rocks
Split Apple Retreat
Interior designer
Songsaa
Le Bristol
Rafael Serrano
Hotel Heritage
Developer and Investor
New Hotel Athens
The Caribbeans & South America
Royal Hotel San Remo
Jade Mountain
Audubon Cottages
Carlisle Bay
Retreats
Brenners Park
Frégate Island Private
Lough Eske
Eilean Shona
John O’Groats Inn
Geoffrey Kent
Founder of Abercombie & Kent Travel
Hacienda Los Lingues
Samana Hotel & Residences
The Lodge at Pico Bonito
Esencia Estate
Casa Bonita
Casa del XVI
Mukul Resort
Sandy Lane
Beyond Indulgence
T
Foreword
by Nick Artsruni, primary writer and
editor in chief of Beyond Indulgence
he expression “do not judge a book by its
cover” is thought to date back to at least the
mid-19th century. One of the earliest quoted
examples of the metaphor being used to reveal a
pitiful character defect is in George Eliot’s dubious
epic, The Mill on the Floss. By all accounts, the novel is
a tedious affair of the travails of the Victorian everyman
(and woman) struggling to adapt to the sweeping
changes heralded by growing industrialisation.
Despite Eliot’s pedestrian style – which some have
(rather unkindly) referred to as something that might
have emerged from the pen of a lobotomised Dickens
– she has undoubtedly been responsible for some of
the sharpest and most perceptive tropes in the canon
of English literature. Her sympathetic, but nonetheless
cutting , depiction of Mr Tulliver as an uneducated
man left puzzled by the growing complexity of the
world around him reaches its apex in The Mill on
the Floss when he explains why one particular book
(Defoe’s History of the Devil) has found its way into
his collection: “They was all bound alike,—it’s a good
binding, you see,—and I thought they’d be all good
books...it seems one mustn’t judge by th’ outside.”
It is, therefore, with a sense of some trepidation that I
have undertaken to write the foreword to this issue of
Beyond Indulgence, the seventh book in the beautifully
bound Beyond Black signature hardback series. The
cover of this particular edition has already set a certain
standard to which this section will manfully struggle to
match. With any luck, comparisons with a lobotomised
George Eliot are already being formulated by some.
One can only hope...
The decision to expand the Beyond Black portfolio
of hard cover publications was not taken lightly. Over
the course of ten years, the imprint has published
various works of non-fiction, most of which have been
in collaboration with a number of third parties and
often for the benefit of charity or artistic and creative
philanthropy. The original, distinctive set of books –
a curated collection delineating the definitive set of
establishments that defined and transcended the
accepted standard of excellence across a variety of
different industries – have been released extremely
infrequently. The reason for this is simple – it is rare
that the standards of any given industry shift notably
within a short period of time. The Beyond Black series
has previously charted the changing paradigms of
superlative service in the fields of finance, elective
surgery and superyachts – to name but a few. In 2014,
six years after the release of Beyond Black: The
World of Exclusive Retreats and Estates, BB
Publications are delighted to release their second
book reviewing the international hospitality
industry: Beyond Indulgence.
business meetings enjoyed as a conversation
between peers. Removing the element of
personal recommendation is, unquestionably,
anathema to people of substance (rather than
marketing statistics).
The aim of Beyond Indulgence was made clear
to myself and the rest of the editorial team from
the start. From embryo to ozalid, the goal has
always been to seek out and accurately review
a collection of global hospitality establishments
that are unified and typified by their inability to
accept the conventional limitations of the luxury
travel market. This mission statement of sorts has,
at its core, the essence of the BB Publications
brand: to look “beyond” the norm, to transcend
the previously accepted pinnacles of professional
standards – the aims of any forward thinking
business model.
The locations chosen for this volume were handpicked by the editorial team based on interactions
with our primary readership – the BB Inner Circle.
The inner circle, which began (and still is, to
some degree) a loose association of like-minded
individuals, has grown to a peer network of active
subscribers to BB Publications, whether that be to
the tri-annual periodical, B Beyond, guests to the
publishers’ regular private events or readers of
the Beyond Black hardback book series (are your
ears burning?). Personal recommendations were
subsequently supported by our own research
to ensure that each destination reviewed in this
volume offers an incomparable level of individual
luxury.
There is, of course, a second, equally important,
aspect of what is imparted by the Beyond Black
brand name. Those familiar with the series since
its inception might recognise the signature style
but those uninitiated seem to have been thrown
by a growing collection of imitators. Imitation
may well be the sincerest form of flattery but poor
imitation is a crime worthy of punishment in print.
The confusion manifested itself in a sequence
of disconcerting instances of correspondence
with various potential participants. We were
distressed to hear a series of PR account
managers, marketing executives - and even hotel
owners - lazily ask for the ‘criteria’ for inclusion
in this book. For us, any close inspection of the
question reveals its fallaciousness: adherence to
a set of criteria implies a regimented policy for
inclusion, a box-ticker’s approach to luxury and a
cold, calculating approach to quality control.
Beyond Indulgence was named specifically
to reflect BB’s uniquely personal approach to
publishing. We have always maintained that
our readers expect to be given the credit they
deserve as high-powered individuals of a certain
stature. Such individuals have no desire to be put
into boxes or referred from one destination to the
other based on a set of pre-determined “criteria”.
The idea – a research analyst’s wet dream - is
almost laughable to those of us who live in the
real world: one of private events, dinners and
Anyone well-versed in the quickly evaporating
tradition of “long copy writing” (younger readers
may turn to their smartphones now - if they have
not already done so) might just have been paying
enough attention to notice the stark difference
in titular descriptors between BB’s first and
second books on the global travel and hospitality
industries. The World of Exclusive Retreats and
Estates has a significantly different emphasis to
Beyond Indulgence, it must be said – and for
good reason, too. The former book was published
at a time when the word ‘luxury’ was beginning
to take on greater significance in the global
marketplace. As the property market continued
to boom and Western capitalism traded at an
all-time high, the luxury sector expanded to an
unprecedented level – so much so that the very
word ‘luxury’ began to loose all meaning. The
World of Exclusive Retreats and Estates sought
to look beyond the myth of widespread luxury
and uncover, well, exactly what was said on
its unique leather bound cover – the world of
undiscovered and exclusive (rather than massproduced ‘luxury’) international retreats.
The rationale behind this book’s title is
similarly semantic. Indulgence is a word that
has changed immeasurably over the years as
our understanding of the luxury marketplace
evolves. Where originally – and still, by official
dictionary definition, the word “indulge” meant
“to allow oneself to enjoy the pleasure of”,
the implications of “indulgence” has changed,
slowly yet perceptibly, to allowing oneself to
be treated by others. As a society, it seems, we
have allowed ourselves to become lazy. Tastes
are catered for, rather than indulged. Occasions
are curated rather than spontaneous. Adventures
are organised rather than experienced. If you are
reading this, the chances are that you are shaking
your head in disbelief – as we would hope.
Beyond Indulgence was not written for those who
passively slot into pre-ordained demographics: it
was written for key decision makers, people who
utterly reject the notion of relinquishing control
of their personal pleasures to others, just as they
would reject a similar idea in a business setting.
Beyond Indulgence, then, is a book with
international scope to reflect its international
readership. It is one which is based, primarily,
on a set of personal recommendations from a
knowledgeable and sophisticated peer group.
Finally, it is a book which encourages readers to
take control of their own lifestyles – something
that many of you will not need to be told twice (or,
in all likelihood, even just once). The book seeks
to showcase a set of establishments which offer
an indulgence of the senses across the board –
from sandy beaches in the Caribbean to spa visits
in central Europe, and from sustainable island
retreats in Cambodia to design-led splendour in
urban capitals worldwide.
If our text fails to do justice to the delights on
offer at some of these remarkable resorts and
destinations, we would urge you to put aside
your (doubtlessly) much-thumbed copy of The
Mill on the Floss and reflect instead on the words
of the seminal semantic, Samuel Johnson:
“Words are the daughters of earth, and... things
are the sons of heaven.”
We hope you enjoy this beautifully bound edition
of Beyond Indulgence. Most of all, however, we
hope that you have the opportunity to experience
some of the heavenly things described within it.
Beyond Indulgence
Quintess
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QUINTESS EXperiences: Bhutan
Beyond Indulgence
QUINTESS Member Tim Rooke
QUINTESS Member Blake Magee at Lake Como
in Cabo
QUINTESS RESIDENCES: La Quinta Rat Pack Retreat
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embership in the Quintess Collection multiplies the
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Superb homes in spectacular locations, often at below-market
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Quintess is comprised of exceptional beach, mountain and city
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QUINTESS RESIDENCES: Aspen Exhibition
QUINTESS Member Mary Williams in
Jackson Hole
Beyond Indulgence
Ian
Schrager
Listening
to Ian Schrager speak is like
hearing the soothing sounds of a
familiar record. The same words will crop up in conversation
– and subsequent conversations – time and time again: his
description of destinations and hotel locations as “twenty-four
hour international gateway cities”, his passion for “unique”
creations with “personality”. Where some might use words
such as “visceral” or “distinctive” as verbal flourishes or
embellishments, Schrager is succinct and business-like. When
he describes the “alchemy” behind the creation of a successful
environment or experience or product, it isn’t a case of him
falling prey to hyperbole. He knows exactly what he is saying –
and he means precisely what he says.
Photography by Chad Batka
When introducing his ongoing current projects, the EDITION
brand hotels and apartments (in partnership with Marriot) and
the PUBLIC hotels, Schrager uses terminology that has become
commonplace for hoteliers. He sums up potential buyers for the
EDITION Miami apartments as “Sophisticated, global citizens
of the world, people ‘in the know,’ and people that always want to
be part of the zeitgeist.” He continues talking in a slick, confident
style reminiscent of a stereotypical 1980s stock broker, “There’s
simply nothing like these apartments in the Miami market. The
level of finishes, details and the sophistication sets it apart from
anything else available. We really got it right.”
Conversations with those regarded as leading figures in their
field can often take place in a specific language - an accepted
way of speaking in jargon that negates the necessity for excessive
explanations. In Schrager’s case, there is an altogether different
inflection. Yes, it is the same old buzzwords that spew forth but
he does not use them out of triteness, nor for brevity, nor for the
sake of being understood. He uses them, quite simply, because
he invented them.
Hotelier and
Entrepreneur
To fully understand the man who is in the process of launching
two new hotel brands off the back of a series of other
international hospitality projects, one must look at his history.
Schrager’s personal story is one that is indelibly linked with
the legendary nightclub he founded with Steve Rubell in 1977,
Studio 54.
“Studio 54 completely reinvented and changed the nightlife
scene in New York,” Schrager says, matter of factly. “It was
the ultimate game changer. It brought people from all walks
of life together for the first time and, when all these different
people were in the room together, a certain magic and alchemy
happened.”
The club itself needs no introduction. It dominated the New
York entertainment scene in a way that no other space managed
to do previously, nor is likely to do again. Tales of events where
the club was filled with four tons of glitter piled onto the floor
- “like standing on stardust,” Schrager recalls, fondly – are
commonplace. Never mind listing the names of celebrity guests,
even one of the bouncers, Haoui Montaug, became famous just
by working there.
“There was no product at Studio 54 other than the magic that
we created,” asserts Schrager, despite all of this. “We had the
same music and liquor that everybody else had. The only thing
that distinguished us was this emotional, visceral experience
that we created... that magic that set us apart. That’s the same
approach I take with my hotels and residences - even though I
do have a product, I approach it as if I don’t and I’m seeking the
same alchemy and magic.”
Schrager’s methodology has had an overwhelming influence on
the public’s subconscious perception of indulgence over the last
thirty-five years. It has revolutionised the hospitality industry –
Beyond Indulgence
from clubs to hotels – to a staggering degree.
build something special, people will come.”
At its core, everything Schrager touches is
characterized by imagination and creativity.
With the advent of widespread consumer air
travel (especially for long haul flights) in the
1970s, hospitality largely became about the most
efficient way to cater for the greatest number
of people. Schrager changed that paradigm
by envisaging and implementing concepts
that appealed directly to individuals. When
asked about his decision to move away from
nightclubs (his Palladium venue was nearly
as popular as Studio 54 had been previously,
yet he moved into hotels with the opening of
Morgans in 1984). Schrager replies simply that
“[it]was a logical progression for me. It’s the
hospitality business, as is the restaurant and
nightclub business. They all have the same
goal: taking care of people.”
Rather than location or any other traditional
factors, Schrager attests that his greatest
influence is “the street”. Pushed to elaborate,
he continues, “[I am inspired] By people in
general, from all walks of life - by just about
anything. I am a sponge. I think there is a
collective unconsciousness and I just try and
tap into it.”
From an outsider’s perspective, of course, that
view might be described rather differently. It
was the capacity to envisage something unique
where nothing like it had existed previously.
The nous to create something so desirable that
it calls out directly to the consumer – the spoilt
child – in each and every one of us. Schrager –
then as now - conjures up a vision so attractive
and exclusive that his target demographic
perceive it almost as they would a mirage in a
desert. The popularity of his creations exceeds
desirability; his customers are desperate to
buy into his ideal.
With the opening of Morgans, Schrager laid
claim to the creation of the first ‘boutique
hotel’. When asked about his use of the term,
which has now found its way into general
usage, Schrager is typically direct: “The
boutique hotel is [just] a name we gave it.
All we wanted to do was create a hotel that
we liked and that manifested our personal
culture. Product distinction, individuality,
uniqueness, sophistication, and cutting edge
design.” When pressed further on his decision
making process behind that wildly successful
first foray into the hotel industry – one which
spiralled into a series of further establishments
that become known as the Morgans Hotel
Group – Schrager’s answer is illuminating:
“[Firstly, ] location is not that important. If you
Schrager’s understanding of the nature of the
individual is either something that comes as
an extension of his own personality or vice
versa: a businessman’s understanding of a
successful model that leads him to apply the
same branding techniques to himself. Given
the intuitive and, by all accounts, idiosyncratic
methods he has of developing his projects, one
might reasonably suspect it to be the former.
The now 67 year old speaks in sweeping
statements that would surely be ridiculed if
uttered by anyone who had not achieved the
same levels of unparalleled success. “I think
of my hotels as an extension of me,” he says,
again with a remarkable directness and an air
of total conviction. “They [the hotels and I] are
similar in that they both aspire to complete
simplicity and purity, devoid of all artifice and
contrivance.“
This is a man, quite clearly, who stands and
falls by his actions. He has made enough
good decisions in his life to trust his own
judgements completely. He knows himself
and does not speak lightly. Indeed, tellingly
for such a convivial character, another of his
favourite words seems to be “gravitas”. It is
an attitude that manifests itself in the twin
aspects of intuition and flexibility that have
come to define his business dealings. Talking
about his plans for any given hotel invites the
comparison of a conversation with an artist
discussing his work. It is, in Schrager’s own
words, a “visceral connection”.
“Making people feel cosy and at home is a kind
of state of mind. It’s visceral and ethereal. It’s
difficult to make a hard and fast rule or [to]
define, but it is the kind of thing where we all
know it when we see it. In my case, it’s about
having a light touch and having all things come
together to go into a unique, unanticipated
and uncharted place. If you can get to that
zone, people will feel cosy and comfortable. I
feel most at home in my hotels.”
The instinctive combined with the flexible and
unexpected is so key to Schrager’s approach
that this normally congenial man becomes
short and irritable during interviews where he
has been obliged to repeat himself. He hates
to be asked how he does what he does – so
much so that he likes to confuse journalists
with analogies that involve “connecting the
dots” to create something entirely “original” or
claim, in a tone totally devoid of irony that “it’s
a ‘one-plus-one-equals-three.’”
Rather than engage him further on his
methods, we invite him to speak about his
disdain for cast-iron rules and standards – and
on this Schrager is very forthcoming:
“We live in a society that loves to categorize,
loves to put things in a box. Any time you can do
something outside the box and capture people
by surprise and stimulate their imagination,
you have an opportunity to do something truly
original and have a great success. By mixing
all of these diverse and unlikely finishes and
details in unexpected ways, a kind of spark - or
alchemy - happens. It becomes magical. And
if you’re fortunate to be able to do that, you
wind up with a unique experience, a distinct
product, and you capture the zeitgeist.”
The conversation turns to Schrager himself
and, here too, his responses betray an
impatience with those who seek to qualify,
quantify or otherwise categorise. When asked
about favourites – in era, styles or individuals
– his answers are all similarly curt: “I do not
have a favourite...I don’t have a preference...I
like all of the above. Again, I can’t put any
hard and fast rules on this...I love all kinds of
art.” The one constant? “It’s visceral - a lot like
choosing a house or a car or a lover...”
Moving to more general topics, Schrager opens
up again. On the subject of art, Schrager is very
happy to discuss his personal indulgences:
“I have original pieces of furniture from
[everyone from] Marc Newson, to Donald Judd,
to Jean Michel Frank, to Antonio Gaudi, to Le
Corbusier. At the moment I’m working with
Christian Liaigre. It’s very wide and varied and
it’s difficult to pigeonhole what I like because it
evolves, changes.”
“Having art in a hotel,” Schrager continues, “is
an incredibly important idea. It allows people to
experience art in a more personal, intimate, nonmuseum like environment. It allows people to
experience art and live with art in a way that was
previously only reserved for the really wealthy.
Having art in a hotel takes all pretension out of
it. It’s the democratization of art. It’s the same
thing Andy Warhol did with painting and what
Terence Conran did with furniture - making it
accessible to people from all walks of life.
“I’ve been lucky enough to work with some of
the great artists of my time, including Robert
Mapplethorpe, Julian Schanbel, Andy Warhol,
Francesco Clemente, Eric Fischl, Bryce Martin,
Dan Flavin, Donald Judd, Kenny Scharf, and
many many others.”
This incredible variety of creative interests
has not gone unnoticed by Schrager, either: “I
think one renews oneself by constantly staying
hungry, curious and passionate about their
life and the world they live in. That makes the
possibilities limitless.”
Outside of art, Schrager’s enduring love of
sport (“I play tennis ans still play basketball”)
reflects an enduring craving for competition.
Ultimately, however, Schrager’s understanding
of indulgence, from a personal perspective, at
least, comes from an emotive response to the
creativity that is so intertwined with his work.
He clearly takes a tremendous amount of
satisfaction from his success and, crucially, from
seeing others enjoy his success. The greatest
achievement he has derived from his work,
he says, is the thrill of “creating a distinctive
product and [the] gratification from guests who
appreciate your efforts. “
If indulgence was once the ultimate personal
liaison – an extravagant gift to oneself – so it
is that, in any capitalist society, businesses will
try to find a way of hijacking that relationship.
Our definition of a gift has become inextricably
linked with the nature of a transaction –
something bought and sold through a series
of middle men (manufacturers,
branding
specialists, advertising specialists, salesmen,
distributors, shop assistants...) rather than
offered from one individual to another, freely.
Equally then, indulgence, the personal gift to
oneself, has been exploited and monetized in a
similar fashion.
Schrager’s developments in the field of
hospitality are even more revolutionary
when one examines them in the context of
semantics – our very understanding of words
like ‘indulgence’, ‘boutique’, ‘independent’,
‘individual’, ‘lifestyle’... Similarly, they are
revelatory to those examining contemporary
consumer culture: it is as if Schrager has
pinpointed precisely the way to evoke a visceral
need, a thirst, in each of the individuals that
make up a mass market. His approach is unique
in the industry insofar as it combines both the
ultimately targeted approach – an individual
sell – with mass market appeal.
Never mind inventing buzzwords. Ian Schrager
is a man who has been reinventing perceptions
on a global scale since 1977. To close out our
piece – and give ourselves a chance to catch our
thoughts – we throw out (what we think is) a
fluff question about another hackneyed term
that we have strenuously avoided using since
the mid-noughties. The answer is one that sums
up Schrager, the ultimate experience-maker
over and above a mere entrepreneur:
“Luxury is a state of mind. It has nothing to do
with how much something costs... We deal in
product distinction and unique experience.” He
repeats himself again, knowingly this time – like
a catchphrase – and with a smile:
“Build something special and people will come.”
Beyond Indulgence
Capri Palace
Hotel
I
taly’s island of Capri comes close to what many would describe
as a perfect scenario. It is almost certainly the closest physical
representation of the word “idyllic”, which has its roots in an
Ancient Greek diminutive - ‘a charming little thing’. Encompassing
an area of just 10 and a half square kilometres and enveloped
in an enchanting light that seems to caress the curvature of the
Tyrrhe nian sea haven all the year round, Capri has always been
considered the ultimate destination for seekers of beauty. From
artists to Emperors, and from aesthetes to hedonists, the easygoing
island has welcomed them all to her shores in the fullness of time.
Open harbours invariably come at a cost to reputation, however,
and, although still admired for her warm embraces, the island has
long been on the receiving end of accusations of promiscuity. Day
trippers and tourists flood her shores incessantly: the burden that
must always be borne by such a timeless beauty.
In such circumstances, the values of prudence and good judgement
reign supreme. In the case of Capri, the Cacace family – founders
of the Capri Palace Hotel - have played the role of chaperones to
the island’s virtue.
The story of the hotel is already bound in folklore, despite the fact
that present owner, Tonino, is only a second generation inheritor.
His parents, Mario and Rita, colonised the island in 1950. Together
with Tonino’s great-grandmother, Mariantonia, the family soon
operated a department store, an inn and a separate hotel – the
Palace – in a town on the Western side of the island known as
Anacapri (named with a suffix to denote its physical elevation over
the rest of the area). In 1975, at the age of just 23 years old, Tonino
took over the running of the Palace after the premature death
of his father Mario. What he inherited was not just a hotel but a
safe haven for those seeking a pure beauty “far from the madding
crowd” (to quote Gray, not Hardy).
The Palace and the Mariantonia inn had both, throughout the ‘60s,
been regarded as just that.The Cacace family had grown accustomed
to hosting some of the world’s best known personalities – from
Jackie and Aristotle Onassis to Sophia Loren and Grace Kelly - in
an atmosphere hallmarked by discretion, privacy, unimpeachable
levels of service and, of course, utterly Epicurean luxury.
All of this, naturally, was par for the course during the so-called
Golden Age of entertainment. After taking over the business,
Tonino was keen to ensure that his family’s efforts – and indeed
the island as a whole – was not at risk of becoming passé; a passing
fancy that had had its heyday and was ready to be surpassed by
newer, bigger, more accessible resorts.
Over the course of the next few years, Tonino transformed the
face of Capri’s tourist industry. Indeed, the first step was to lay
claim to the destination itself: the Palace Hotel became the Capri
Palace, and the Cacace’s establishment became (and, to many,
still is) a synecdoche for everything that is good about hospitality
throughout the island. Typifying this was Tonino’s decision to
personally greet as many guests as possible who arrived at his
exclusive establishment. It is a policy to which Tonino still adheres
today.
Those who have met Tonino Cacace, now in his early 60s, describe
him as a charming man – funny, gregarious and wholeheartedly
welcoming in a manner which patently and honestly transcends
his profession. But they also describe a force of personality – a man
who stamps his character on every meeting, not with brashness
but, rather, with a sheer zest for life that is both infectious and
The greatest pleasures, it is often said, are
brought about by personalities rather than
places. Even the most indulgent experiences
can be ruined by an ill-mannered encounter.
The so-called ‘personal touch’ is notorious
for being able to make or break a potentially
perfect scenario.
Beyond Indulgence
Via Capodimonte, 14,
80071 Anacapri, Isola di Capri
Napoli, Italy
Telephone: +39 081 978 0111
E-mail: reservations@capripalace.com
utterly consuming. It is an attitude that no amount of money
can buy and one which manifests itself in every aspect of the
Capri Palace hotel.
One particular example stands out. Tonino frequently recalls
the day that he found the perfect blue for the Palace’s
Beach Club, Il Riccio, the development of which he oversaw
personally. “I knew I wanted to paint the Beach Club chairs
blue,” he says, “but I was looking for a blue that makes you
happy.” He was not satisfied with any of the options put to
him, nor with his own research until, by chance, he came
across the perfect shade on a trip to Mykonos. The bright,
exuberant blue now beams out over the cliffs of Anacapri as a
fitting testament to the force of personal conviction. And yes,
it does make you happy.
The hotel as a whole exudes personality. Not Tonino’s in
particular, perhaps, but rather its own, unique atmosphere –
something that sets it apart from other 5 star hotels to the
extent that it qualifies (probably with something to spare) for
the highly sought-after ‘5 star L’ rating – the highest ranking a
5 star hotel can receive. It is in the unique elements of design
that cut across the clean lines of the hotel, designed to recall
the elegance and splendour of an 18th Century Neapolitan
palace. It is in the decision to re-imagine the hotel not just
as a place to stay but a place to feel alive, connected, cultured
and inspired. Art is not just on the walls and in the hotel’s
design, it now makes up the very essence of the space as a
whole. Bespoke works by internationally renowned artists
abound: Velasco designed the mosaic of the main pool; Tonelli
painted the individual swimming pools housed in the Magritte
and Warhol suites of the hotel. Last and perhaps greatest of
them all is the majestic, three-dimensional 40 metre wall - an
installation piece designed by Arnaldo Pomodoro – that greets
guests at the entrance, as if to tell them “this is not a hotel; this
is a feast for the senses”.
Literal feasting is also taken to the form of high art at the
Capri Palace. Tonino accepts his limitations gracefully and
graciously credits the work of general manager Ermanno
Zanini and his team for the development of the twice
Michelin starred restaurant, L’Olivo, widely considered to be
a star attraction in its own right (its popularity demonstrable
by the management’s need to build a new terrace for the
restaurant to satisfy demand), and another Michelin starred
restaurant at the aforementioned Beach Club, Il Ricio. While
the team rightly take the credit for the implementation, the
achievements also pay homage to another outstanding feat of
direction from Tonino.
recently innovated Capritouch brand name. Creative souls
might point to the space on site reserved for resident artists,
whose studios guests can arrange to visit during their stay.
Ultimately, however, it is a testimony to the personalities of this
place – not just of Tonino Cacace, but also of the management
team, the people of Anacapri and perhaps even that of the
hotel itself – that there are so many wonders with which to
endorse it. Perhaps the greatest of all, however, is summed up
in the philosophy of the Capri palace’s new, uniquely designed
Capritouch suite (one of four recently crafted suites):
It is tempting to go on at length about the size of the rooms
– massive, courtesy of Tonino’s decision to reduce the hotel’s
capacity from 110 rooms to 72 (including 15 bespoke suites) –
or the glorious spa that is technologically unsurpassed and
scientifically exact, in stark contrast to other, more nebulously
described wellness centres. Sartorial savants might wax lyrical
about the restored Mariorita boutique, which offers the
absolute pinnacle of Italian fashion from both internationally
recognised designers and local Caprisian artisans under the
“We realized that nowadays, the seasoned traveller does not want
to enter in a place without a clear identity, a place without space
and time, that could be anywhere and everywhere. [In fact,] he
wants to enter a hotel and feel Capri, breath Capri, and live it to
the fullest.”
It is an approach that encapsulates the spirit of the Capri
Palace, and one which will see it continue to re-define the
standard of luxury for years to come.
Beyond Indulgence
There’s a certain type of
travelling experience that
a hotel – however grand or
luxurious – simply cannot offer.
The type of hospitality only
really given to house guests
is a feeling that is understood
across virtually every society
around the world – whether that
is expressed in words, actions,
customs or conventions.
I
Palazzetto 113
t is with that thought in mind that we introduce the
Palazzetto 113, a delightful Venetian guesthouse – or,
literally translated, ‘a little palace’ - loosely described as
a B&B. In fact, this baroque style town house, set in the
historical heart of Venice’s mellifluous waterways, feels
more like a home away from home.
Palazzetto 113 is the latest project by Campa&Campa,
created by interior designer duo Alessio and Nicola
Campa. Intimately and perfectly designed and
decorated, the space is presented in such a way as to
incorporate varying elements of typical Italian styles.
The façade of the building, for example, is extremely
distinctive for this part of the country, given its Sicilian
ceramic finish. The leonine gargoyles on the enchanting
terrazo, however, declare firmly for Northern Italy.
The silky tapestry on the walls follow suit, one feels,
although this has a particularly decadent flavour that
attests. unmistakeably, to a Venetian master plan. All
in all, it is the sort of décor of which one of the more
cosmopolitan Doges would be proud.
Another essential element for a dutiful Doge, of course,
would necessarily be a platform from which to survey
his realm. On this front, too, the Palazzetto 113 excels.
The previously mentioned terrace is part of what makes
this little palace so special. Although typical of the area,
the combination of this beautifully crafted space with
the breathtaking view of the city gives an entrancing
result.
The classically designed terrace is a nice touch that
completes the effect of a luxurious pad with all the
benefits of a home rather than a hotel. All creature
comforts are, of course, also catered for at the Palazzetto
113 with aplomb. Cosy king size beds with orthopaedic
mattresses greet guests after entering via each suite’s
own sitting room. Gilded mirrors garnish the walls near
the bathrooms – which are worth a mention in their
own right for their beautifully marbled and mosaicked
finish.
All of this is offered within touching distance of some
of the finest attractions in the city. Indeed, all of the
major sights of the city are within walking (or terraceviewing) distance – particularly the contemporary art
attractions for which the Dorsoduro area is so popular.
For more information, please visit
www.palazzetto113.it
Beyond Indulgence
fattoria la
vialla
These are phenomenal achievements in and
of themselves, of course, but they are all the
more remarkable when one learns that the
owners, Piero and Giuliana Lo Franco, had no
agricultural experience prior to their acquisition
of their first farm (back in 1978), which now
makes up one part of the estate. After falling
in love with the rural life, the pair could never
have imagined that, after their first purchase,
the small Ca dell'oro vegetable farm, they would
find themselves devoting more and more time to
a growing homestead of farms, vineyards, houses
and olive groves.
The 3,316 acre farm that flourishes today started
from humble beginnings. So much so, in fact,
that it is still named to reflect the early work
that took place at the very start of the Fattoria
La Vialla journey. The small Ca Dell'oro farm
was tended using the simplest of instruments,
the “vialla” - Italian for a small plough used
for vegetable gardens and mountain terrain.
Since then, with a remarkable sensitivity to the
natural environment, Piero and Giuliano – and,
subsequently, their family - have worked near
ceaselessly to restore this fertile paradise to
a state of productivity and balance the likes of
which had not been seen in the area for decades.
This was an almost an ant-industrial approach
– a labour of love that has reaped incredible,
palpable rewards over the years.
The Lo Franco family now have well-defined
roles at the estate that allows each of them to look
Followers of the Beyond Black book series or
B Beyond Magazine might already be familiar with
Fattoria La Vialla, the totally organic, family run
farm set in the foothills of Tuscany on the outskirts
of Arezzo. Although its raison d'etre is its produce,
the farm also has guest houses on the property to
accommodate the occasional visitor who wishes to
be fully immersed in the rustic experience.
L
a Vialla is not just a firm favourite
of this imprint, however: the estate
has also continued to collect a quite
incredible number of awards for its work
in producing some of the finest quality
organic food and wine in Italy, while
at the same time maintaining a totally
sustainable approach to managing the
natural environment. In 2008, Fattoria La
Vialla was also denoted a “Carbon Farm”
by the European Environment Agency
due to its negative carbon footprint - the
fact that it absorbs more carbon dioxide
than it produces (-3,880 tons in 2009 and
today -5385 tons).
after their own sphere of production: Gianni, the
oldest of Piero and Giuliano's three sons, looks
after the administration; Bandino (the youngest)
is in charge of the mill, the oil and the sauce
making and Antonio, a trained sommelier, looks
after the vineyards. By keeping the business
family run, the Lo Francos ensure that La Villa
continues to operate on the same values as it did
when it started: those of quality, sustainablility
and a commitment to an organic lifestyle and
means of production.
Visitors to La Vialla will leave wondering why
and how agriculture has evolved to be anything
other than what it is here. A slew of gold medal
awards fail to do enough justice to the lilting
pleasures of the farm's many creations: extra
virgin olive oil, pecorino cheese, red and white
wines, spumanti, sughi (sauces), pasta and more...
After tasting the 'Pomarolina' (tomato sauce with
vegetables) or the 'Fragolino' (aubergine based
sauce with honey), many will consider it an act
of mercy that La Vialla offer a catalogue order
service to selected customers via their website.
This remarkable place is, quite simply, a mustvisit destination for anyone visiting Tuscany.
The overwhelming quality of the food and
wine produced at this very farm is now widely
regarded as one of the major attractions to the
region – an almost unbelievable accomplishment
when looking back at La Vialla's history, and one
that is a testament to the values of hard work and
remaining true to one's convictions.
Via di Meliciano, 26,
52029 Castiglion Fibocchi Arezzo, Italy
Tel: +39 0575 477720
Email: fattoria@lavialla.it
Beyond Indulgence
Beyond Indulgence
furnishing is a statement piece; every step you take envelopes
you into the alluring ambiance that seeps from the walls of this
seductive place. The concept bedrooms continue the theme of
sensuous luxury but add an element of hedonism – and more than a
hint of decadence. The Sala del Doge (or Doge’s room), for example,
is coated in regal red upholstery from wall to wall. A huge gilded
mirror sits imperiously on the wall directly opposite the imposing
king size bed. The suggested dress code for this room? “Sumptuous
nudity”. When the backdrop is this ornate, clothes seem redundant...
Ca Maria Adele
T
Some places hold a certain
power of evocation. Their names
conjure up an idea; their very
utterance calls to the soul.
The definitive example of this
is bound up in two potent
syllables: Venice.
hink of the amphibious city and
your mind projects images of gliding
gondolas, festive masks and grand Gothic
palazzos rising from the waves. The canals
that vein the city seem to circulate it with the
very essence of romance.
If the mood of a city is summoned up by its
name, then it takes its form in its features.
Frequently praised for the beauty and
complexity of its challenging architecture,
Venice’s romantic qualities are expressed
artfully in the Ca Maria Adele, first project by
Campa&Campa. This charming hotel, located
in the contemporary art neighbourhood of
Dorsoduro, manages to recreate in microcosm
and build on the values for which Venice is
known throughout the world.
Each room in the Ca Maria Adele is titled,
and also granted a corresponding mood,
design, and dress code. These descriptions
The concept rooms, deluxe quarters and larger suites at the Ca Maria
Adele are variously and uniquely designed to suit all tastes. The Sala
Noire, for instance, themes itself on black pearl; whereas the Sala
del Camino engenders a warm glow with its gentle cream and pastel
finish. Sala Giugi, the breakfast room, is a intimate and stylish room.
Brocade designs throughout and a sheer, draping curtain give the
room an airy, carefree feel as you cibare, or take your breakfast.
are not empty claims. The astounding thing
about this hotel is the fact that it manages to
subtly yet unmistakeably fulfil these emotive
promises. The décor of each room and area
of the hotel breezes through these nuanced
sensations with a consummate verve and
finesse: from the entrance, which promises
“willing expectation” and substantiates that
with a wistful looking threshold – replete, of
course, with a dock for one’s gondola – to the
glorious lounge/living room, built to invoke
“Venetian revery” with its ornately carved
furniture and fireplaces, mottled golden walls
and plush finishings. It is no surprise then,
that Ca Maria Adele has been given an award
as #the Most Romantic Hotel’ in Europe by
Johansesn Conde Nast and the Doge’s Room
has been awarded by Mr and Mrs Smith this
year as the second sexiest room in the world.
The hotel is an astounding feat of design
– even by Venice’s high standards. Every
The twist comes with in the form of a penchant for the exotic. Having
proven its mastery of traditional Venetian design, the Ca Maria
Adele also features a number of salons featuring Turkish, North
African and Oriental styles. From the balmy terazza, which channels
the soothing indolence of a Moroccan riyadh, to the Sala Orientale,
which embodies the splendour of the Ming dynasty with its floral
motif and beautiful vases, there is truly something for everyone.
Sestiere Dorsoduro, 111, 30123
Venezia, Italy
Telephone: +39 041 520
3078E-mail: info@camariaadele.it
www.campaandcampa.it
Those with the desire to explore outside the bedroom will also be
fully satisfied. Everything, according to the management, is less
than three minutes away from the Ca Maria Adele. The Dorsoduro
area itself includes the Zattere waterfront, as well as the Chiesa della
Salute area, which has always been regarded as one of the most
exclusive districts of Venice, now dotted with a series of stunning,
contemporary-style residential buildings. The Dorsoduro is also
known as the contemporary art neighbourhood – so be sure to
investigate the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, the Francois Pinault
Collection (located in Punta della Dogana) and the dynamic museum
dedicated to Emilio Vedova hosted in the Magazzini del Sale.
Beyond Indulgence
the
alpina
If ever we were tempted to define a hotel in
terms of net worth of its guests, we’d dub this a
billionaires’ hotel - you could be breakfasting next
to major art collectors, oligarchs or mega stars, but
you wouldn’t necessarily know it. Discretion and
low key is the name of the game.
This was followed, quite superfluously, by octopus/
scallop/chorizo/lime & basil, a complex and
elaborate mix of warm octopus, melting scallop in
a sweet dressing, juxtaposed interestingly with a
lush basil ice cream, and subtly spiced up by the
chorizo.
Ann Carrington to make them of cutlery. There are
a few more pieces by the same artist and also made
of cutlery on the walls of the restaurant – all of
them striking and entirely ingenious.
The vast ground floor lobby bar and its outdoor
terrace would encourage socialising if the guests
were so inclined, however most people kept to
themselves during out visit, either out of natural
reticence or because they were there as a family.
Our main course was deer & duck/pumpkin/
hazelnut/brussels sprouts. The hazelnut sauce
was a creative and intense alternative to the more
conventional chestnut puree, and the sautéed
pumpkin sticks a flavoursome and healthy variation
of fries.
You are guaranteed to breakfast/dine or swim next
to some of the wealthiest people on the planet (a
small number of them have been astute enough
to buy chalets on the grounds of the hotel and
have a private entrance to its facilities). Staying
at the Alpina is akin to staying at a private club
for oligarchs, celebrity entertainers and sundry
billionaires.
The Restaurant
Bold choices of art
works, distinctive
commissioned pieces
(both wall-mounted and
furniture), and evidence
of a growing and eclectic
private art collection,
strategically displayed
throughout the hotel,
give it the feel of an
exceptionally sumptuous
private reception room,
complete with its own
antique painted ceiling
and a Gone with the Wind
double stairway.
Sommet (or peak in French) is headed by chef
Mr Marcus G. Lindner from Zurich.
A
special effort has been made to re-create an
authentic, pre-Castro Cuban Fumoir, housing
another set of art works, one of which has even
stirred controversy in the art world, guaranteeing it
long-lasting notoriety.
The Spa
We stayed in one of the 5th floor suites whose twin
balconies gave us a 180 degree panoramic view to
die for.
Without any question, the most sumptuous and
fully equipped hotel spa B Beyond has ever had the
pleasure to visit, this is probably best described in
pictures.
Everything, from the cashmere covered sofa to
the glass-covered fireplace and coffee table books
stacked up on the shelves, conveys the warmth of
a self-contained private chalet. The concave mirror
in the sitting room section acts as a reflective art
piece of the whole.
Orchid plants are in every area of the suite, including
the bathroom. One of the most remarkable things
about the Alpina is that original (rather than replica)
furniture pieces and antique barn wood have been
sourced and used throughout.
‘Died and gone to heaven’ is probably the most
clichéd, yet the most apt way to describe the Alpina
spa.
Neither words nor images can, however, convey the
sense of visual and sensual feast. Water streaming
down rock wall after rock wall, green living walls,
rough-hewn blocks of lime, a massive 85 foot
indoor lap pool, several sauna and steam rooms, a
large salt resting room and the piece de resistence,
a full heated outdoor pool with its whirlpool area.
As a matter of fact, the outdoor pool is long enough
to swim in and an absolute hit with the younger
guests, particularly in the evenings. We loved it.
The hotel also has the first European branch of
MEGU and a 14-seat private cinema (with a popcorn
machine) which screens different movies every
night. The private cinema has become de rigueur,
but the comfort features of the Alpina one are in
a class of their own. The cinema becomes a night
club every so often.
Our gastronomic experience at Le Sommet started,
appropriately enough, with Roederer on tap.
Our first course was a tartare of veal/crawfish/
parsley/sour cream. The crawfish melted in the
mouth; the veal tartar was juicy and delicately
spiced, topped with a spoonful of sour cream - all
this on a bed of parsley puree with the different
flavours marrying surprisingly well.
Second course was Lamb’s lettuce soup/duck/
quail egg. The ingenious combination of softly
boiled quail egg and a lamb/duck mélange in a
lettuce reduction gets a resolute 10 out of 10 and is
one of the best dishes this author has ever had the
pleasure to sample..
Pudding was a caramel/passion fruit/fried banana/
pistachio - an intricate interplay of smoothly sweet
caramel, tangy passion fruit and pistachio on a
fried banana base.
The sommelier picked some fresh Swiss wines
post-Roederer and they did a fantastic job of
complimenting the food without overshadowing it
as is often the case.
A word of caution: the degustation menu above
may leave you too replete to appreciate the truly
outstanding breakfast spread which includes
a number of Russian specialities – as well as
everything else you’d expect in a Swiss hotel of this
calibre.
The Art
The Alpina has an eclectic collection of art that
does give the hotel the feel of an art gallery.
Nachson Mimran works with art foundations, in
addition to commissioning pieces for the hotel. He
also curates the growing collection of The Alpina.
The very Swiss tradition of displaying the horns
of plenty in a hospitality establishment has taken
an interesting twist here: Mimran commissioned
Why Stay There?
You would be treated to an arty, somewhat
idiosyncratic atmosphere because many of the
patrons are fairly eccentric and arty themselves.
You’d notice this as soon as you enter the hotel.
However rich or famous you are, there’ll always
be someone just so or even more so than you,
which guarantees you absolute privacy. In fact,
although guests would engage some of the staff in
conversation (the formidable maître d’ appeared to
have been on a friendly basis with many of them
for years before the opening of the hotel), they
keep a polite but well-defined distance between
one another.
You would love the spa which is truly second to
none, both in terms of design and facilities.
The Alpina Gstaad
Alpinastrasse 23 3780, Switzerland
Tel: +41 33 888 98 88
www.thealpinagstaad.ch
Beyond Indulgence
Carlton Hotel
Perched above the lake and overlooking the splendour of the
surrounding mountains, with a 360 degree views from every
suite, this fairly recently re-modelled hotel is a high techmeets-chic-design celebration of style.
O
ne of 5 hotels owned by the Kipp family and designed by Swiss
maestro of cool laced with flights of fancy, Carlo Rampazzi, the
Carlton is without question one of the best hotels we have ever had the
pleasure of experiencing.
I am using the word purposefully as staying there is indeed quite an
experience. To begin with, the senses are regaled by the clever if
occasionally confusing mix of period and contemporary pieces, the latter
often thrown in as if in jest. The main restaurant chairs whose backs
imitate actual diners are a good case in point as are the giant lobby lamps
mounted on stacks of re-used old chair legs.
The apocryphal story goes that Nicolai II of Russia intended to use the
building of the hotel as his winter residence. True or not, the designer
has made great artistic use of the story, incorporating rich fabric panels
in the bathrooms and images of the tsar’s jewellery collection.
The 60 or suites’ bathrooms are quite the most beautiful, supremely wellthought out, faultlessly functional, ‘never-want-to-leave’ water rooms
with massive shower alcoves and every convenience
imaginable.
A closer look around the suite reveals intricate detail
such as the use of clever wood marquetry, weathered
leather, marble, tiles, terrazzo walling and rich fabrics
everywhere. The suites are extremely generously sized,
with curved walls emphasising the feeling of space and
a mini bar-cum-coffee/tea making area set apart from
the sitting room. Orchid plants, trays of delectable
Swiss chocolates, fresh fruit and other snack bites are
thoughtfully laid out for the guests.
The balconies have the most spectacular views of the
Swiss mountains, again at a 360 degree angle.
Then, there is the spa…We are quite accustomed
to seeing magnificent spas in ultra-high end hotels,
especially in winter resorts. This one is of truly massive
proportions and as state of the art as you have by now
come to expect from this hotel. Occupying two floors,
it has the requisite indoor and outdoor heated pool and whirlpool, and
a full complement of saunas, steam rooms, and pampering spa treatment
rooms.
Our favourite area was the cooling area directly off the sauna which is
simply outdoor space, directly on the snow and overlooking the steep
walk towards the lake. Skiers typically spend their mid to late afternoons
relaxing and further toning their bodies there.
The Carlton is an extremely sophisticated, polished hotel combining
quirky design with high tech to achieve the ultimate in 21st century
hospitality. The attention to detail is rare, even in the highly competitive
world of ultra-high end establishments.
Via Johannes Badrutt 11, 7500 St. Moritz, Switzerland
Tel: +41 81 836 70 00 / Email: info@carlton-stmoritz.ch
ENGADINE VALLEY. BEARS FIND RENEWED STRENGTH WHEN THEY ARE SAFE IN THEIR OWN LAIR.
CHESA LUMPAZ OFFERS THE SAME REJUVENATING AND RESTORATIVE EXPERIENCE TO ITS
Beyond Indulgence
GUESTS, HENCE ITS NAME.
Chesa Lumpaz was completed in 2007 and for the first time it is now being offered for rental.
The history of the property goes back to the late 19th century. Where the chalet now stands was once
the house of the coachmen – in an era when horse-driven carriages were the only mode of transportation
to St Moritz.
Located in the heart of
St.Moritz, next door to the
famous Badrutt’s Palace
Hotel, Chesa Lumpaz is a
contemporary style, superluxury 900 sq/m chalet,
built over five floors and
featuring the most up to
date technology in home
comfort, entertainment,
spa and wellness.
CHESA LUMPAZ
T
he word Lumpaz means bear in the traditional
language of the Engadine valley. Bears find
renewed strength when they are safe in their own
lair.
open up the roads increased, cars made their first
appearance in the Swiss Alps and subsequently,
train access to St.Moritz was added. The once so
important coachmen were obsolete.
Chesa Lumpaz offers the same rejuvenating and
restorative experience to its guests, hence its name.
Almost a century later, in late 2007, the construction
of the stunning Chesa Lumpaz was completed
and the property is now one of the most exclusive
alpine chalets.
Chesa Lumpaz was completed in 2007 and this is
the first time it is being offered for rental.
The history of the property goes back to the late
19th century. On today’s location of the chalet
there was once the house of the coachmen – in
an era when horse-driven carriages were the only
mode of transportation to St Moritz.
The Swiss canton of Graubünden was at the time
the only place in the world that had a law banning
cars from the road. In 1925, when the pressure to
With a team of successful and established
architects, designers and construction companies
on board, the goal was to create the ultimate in
design, functionality, comfort and sense of wellbeing. Swiss architects Valentin Bearth and Andrea
Deplazes planed the building, later joined by
internationally acclaimed architect Nico Rensch,
whose exceptional track record of building private
properties and a natural flair for functionality,
design and materials, enhanced the team. The
result is a modern, yet
warm and cosy house.
The ingenious use of
space provides guests
with utter privacy and
the ability to indulge
their personal interests
and
tastes.
Every
conceivable detail has
been thought of to
maximise the comfort of
the guests after a day’s
skiing: you can relax in
the wellness area or train
in the private gym, or
watch a movie in your
room’s own cinema, or
read a book in front of
the fireplace…
Telephone: +41 81 833 13 26
Website: www.chesalumpaz.com
Email: info@leotrippi.com
The Swiss canton of Graubünden was at the time the only place in the world that had a law banning
cars from the road. In 1925, when the pressure to open up the roads increased, cars made their first
appearance in the Swiss Alps and, subsequently, train access to St Moritz was added. The once so important
coachmen were obsolete.
Almost a century later, in late 2007, the construction of the stunning Chesa Lumpaz was completed
and the property is now one of the most exclusive alpine chalets.
Architect Nico Rensch has made no corner cutting
compromises. He felt that the Chesa Lumpaz did
not need one master bedroom, but four. Rather
than maximising occupancy, he created four large
bedroom suites, only differing in terms of colour
scheme and art.
The top floor of the villa is dedicated to socialising,
relaxing, entertaining and experiencing culinary
delights, supplied by a private 5 star chef and a full
complement of staff.
For the culturally minded, Chesa Lumpaz boasts a
library with a complete set of Taschen (and soon,
Beyond Black) publications, offering guests the
opportunity to browse through a multitude of art
and photographic editions.
The top floor of the Chesa Lumpaz is a window to
the town of St Moritz. Whether you are enjoying
the mountain views, watching the lake sporting
events in the summer or following the polo on ice
in the winter, you have access to it all directly from
the living room of Chesa Lumpaz.
The chalet can be rented in its entirety including
all services. The chalet team is always at hand to
fulfil any wish of the guests: massage after skiing
with your personal guide, followed by a delicious
dinner and a night clubbing in the town of St
Moritz, and a service befitting the quality Swiss
hoteliers are justly famous for.
The chalet offers a different experience in
summer and winter and staff would guide you
and organise the best activities of the season,
including accommodating your children in the
most exclusive summer camp in the Swiss Alps.
Chesa Lumpaz is a truly exceptional arrival on
the super-luxury private residence-ran-as-a 5star
hotel scene.
Beyond Indulgence
Pierre Yves
Rochon
Interior designer
The first
thing that strikes me when looking at your
portfolio – even in the case of your more
modernized or contemporary designs - is how much your work seems to
reflect the values of traditional art composition. I imagine that this stems
from your self-professed love of European classicism. Could you please
expand on that for our readers?
In a sense you are correct, European classicism is my “first love”.
It is what I learned and practiced at L’Ecole des Beaux Arts. It is
also the historical base for all architecture classical or modern.
The principles of European classicism: balance, symmetry, and
proportion are calming and give order and sensibility to a space.
Even the most modern of architects use these principals to this day
for the same reasons that PYR does. Also, I am European!
You have stressed that you take into account the cultural and geographical
identity of every hospitality client with whom you work, but is it fair to
describe your design motif as being predominantly Eurocentric?
We absolutely consider the location, and cultural and geographical
surroundings of each and every project. So, no, I do not believe
PYR is predominantly Eurocentric. For example, we are working
on an exclusive luxury residential tower in Miami, Florida. Being
a US based project, we very much took the landscape and overall
environment into our design. The interior and exterior architecture
references the existing architectural style of Miami and of their
people.
the design concept and then typically sit with the entire design team
to brainstorm and come up with the final direction.
How, if at all, has your approach changed over the years? You are now
recognized as one of the pre-eminent interior designers in the world today so presumably people are quicker to cede more control of any given project
to you and your team directly!
PYR’s approach has not changed over the years but has certainly
evolved. It must! Clients and Owners indeed trust PYR to use our
expertise to assist them, specifically in regard to design aesthetic,
guest circulation and overall program.
In your opinion, is hospitality design primarily an industry that trades in
aesthetics, marketing/branding strategy or guest experience? Naturally,
the three are inextricably linked, but do you think they have an order of
importance and/or relevance for your clients?
These three topics are completely interconnected, so this is a hard
question to answer. I believe Clients often think marketing/branding
strategy and aesthetics are the most important; at PYR we believe
the guest experience is most important. This is our job. We are
brought into a project to successfully combine aesthetics, marketing/
branding strategy and guest experience, to best fit the client’s needs.
Does being so immersed in the hospitality industry make it difficult to
separate work from pleasure? Do you ever find yourself walking into a
Following on from my first question – there is an incredible sense
of balance to your work. Do you feel as if that is something that
you have always had, or rather that it was an ability that grew and
matured over time and with experience?
hotel and silently critiquing aspects of the design?
This has always been a very natural ability of mine, but of course
it has matured. A design process is always growing and developing
as we are.
Do you have any projects coming up in the near future about which you are
No, never. I try to enjoy the guest experience as a guest would in one
of PYR’s properties. This helps me to learn and design better.
particularly excited?
Yes many! Stay tuned....
You and your team are renowned for taking a particularly thorough
approach with your projects. At what stage do you usually become involved
with a project? Or does it differ vastly on each job?
What is your personal definition of indulgence – in a word, phrase or
I am the very first person in the office to touch any project. I generate
To design!
sentence?
Beyond Indulgence
I
was reminded of the seeming effortlessness with
which the hotel has traditionally managed to marry
discretion with opulence.
Guests came and went as I perused the Sunday
papers – an older American couple discussing their
race horses portfolio; an English woman in a pared
down jeans and cashmere outfit, giving sotto voce
travel schedule instructions to the butler; a young
family with their nanny enjoying their smoked
salmon sandwiches...
My suite had a proper key which is always the sign of
a good hotel (the electronic cards work only 8 times
out of 10 and are a pet hate of mine).
The reception room of my suite would have easily
accommodated a drinks party for 30, which too is a
rarity with European hotels as they try to maximise
the space (the only notable exception being Capri
Palace whose owner has a program of reducing the
number of rooms rather than increasing it).
A nod to modernity in the classically decorated hotel
is the elaborate and automated electronic lighting
and socket system, along with the super-fast WiFi.
The one intangible, however, is the feeling of belonging
that the Bristol conveys and cultivates amongst its
fiercely loyal clientele – it is the sense of belonging to
a ‘club’ of social peers who appreciate and can afford
the best of unobtrusive but omnipresent service;
exceptional dining (the main restaurant of the hotel
is reminiscent of a lavish Belle Époque train coach,
capsule-like in the central lobby); the stately home
courtyard; the requisite spa; the fabulous location
and the timeless serenity the whole of it exudes.
le bristol
Le Bristol has carved itself a very unique
kind of reputation among grand Paris hotel:
it is where old money goes to stay.
112 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris, France
Tel: +33 (0)1 53 43 43 00 / Email: reservation@lebristolparis.com
Beyond Indulgence
Hotel
Heritage
Bruges, strategically positioned between Ostend and Brussels or
Ostend and Antwerp, evokes images of romantic canals and Flemish
lace and is often compared to Venice. It is a destination in its own
right and has starred in a number of films as one of the most
beautiful European settings.
T
wenty years ago, Johan and Isabelle Creytens
took over a historic building, variously used
as a grand private residence and a bank, and
converted it to a boutique hotel of just 22 rooms
– the only Relais & Chateaux hotel in Bruges.
Their creation, Hotel Heritage, is ideally placed
near the Market Place and the city’s myriad
culinary and architectural delights.
An owner-run hotel is something of a treat
these days – star rating and industry accolades
notwithstanding, many savvy travellers would
research and opt for personalised hospitality
that combines tailored service and a degree of
informality.
On the subject of treats, the Heritage offers
easily the best of them all – handmade Nilson
beds, crafted out of top quality natural materials,
that are so amazingly comfy that visitors are
now given the option to replicate the dreamy
experience by purchasing one of their own.
While being one of the most creative we’ve
encountered, this is by no means the only treat
at the Heritage.
Beyond Indulgence
The hotel’s restaurant, Le Mystique, has a resident
chef, Koenraad Steenkiste, whose emphasis is on
organic and local Flanders region produce.
For the gourmet guests, Le Mystique offers some very
interesting signature dishes with distinct regional
flavours.
A good case in point is the Veal Cheek cooked in
Bruges Tripel (an amber coloured malt beer with high
alcohol content) with pommes fondant and parsnips.
A brilliant variation on the traditional consommé is
the French pigeon, oxtail and carrots clear broth.
The Pas de Bleu ‘Hinkelspel’ cheese is served with
the delicious and inimitable syrup of Luik (an
intensely fruity Lieges sirup).
For chocolate lovers, the Soup of bitter chocolate and
mint is an absolute must.
Le Magnum bar sits a cozy 20 and doubles up as a
library, offering a great wine and local beers list.
The Heritage would appeal to those who like a solid,
traditional and ornate style: period sofas, massive
chandeliers, gilded mirrors, carved fireplaces, deep
rugs, embossed cushions, and fine art on the walls fit
its name well – or the other way round.
This is combined, of course, with contemporary
comforts we have all come to take for granted, but in
addition to the free wifi, every room boasts an iPad2,
a great touch!
The suites on the top floor have Durance products
and their own Jacuzzi as well as spectacular views
over the city.
The vaulted cellars have been converted to a spa and
gym, complete with Sauna & steam bath, solarium
and a fitness room with power-plate.
Perhaps one of the best features of the hotel is the
top floor sundeck with far reaching views across the
beautiful city of Bruges.
HOTEL HERITAGE
Niklaas Desparsstraat 11,
8000 Brugge, Belgium
+32 50 44 44 44
info@hotel-heritage.com
One of the many additional treats the hotel owners
offer, in fact, is a guided tour of Bruges, as well as a
more exotic one: a hot air balloon experience.
Beyond Indulgence
for forming that opinion early during one's stay:
when walking into the New Hotel reception,
for example, only to have one's breath caught
short by the sight of a lobby swathed in various
carpentry bin-ends upcycled into a staggeringly
idiosyncratic art wall. Although these sorts of
features are seemingly endless, they form part of
a larger context which completely underpins the
YES! philosophy. Where other designs are often
led primarily by theme, then by competitions
between architects or designers, the YES! Group
take a clearly structured approach. This starts,
first and foremost, with the people behind each
project. It sounds obvious but people often lose
sight of the fact that, in the hospitality industry,
the guest experience is key. With that in mind,
what better way to guarantee a quality experience
than by putting together a quality team to inspire
it?
NEW HOTEL
Hotels which prioritise design are not exactly a novelty in the global hospitality
industry. Collaborations with designers generally do not set the world alight with
innovative thinking, and seldom do they deliver a unique execution. Now, look at
the images on this page and re-read the above.
T
his book features a great number of
hotels, while the Beyond Black imprint
has been reviewing superlative destinations
for over 15 years. It is fair to say that, in that
time, we have never seen anything quite like
the fluorescent pink and neon blue colour
scheme underpinning the vibrant design
of YES! Hotel's Semiramis establishment.
From Shanghai's Waterhouse on the Bund
to the Icehotel in Jukkasjärvi , Sweden, with
London's Sanderson hotel also in the mix,
there are undoubtedly a few destinations
that break the mould enough to transcend
'quirky' design. Athens' collection of YES!
Hotels, however, are perhaps the first to
wholeheartedly embrace an overwhelmingly
bright, positive and in-your-face aesthetic.
The YES! Hotel mission statement sheds
some light on that decision, with the group
stressing that their goal is to leave guests
feeling totally positive about their stay at the
hotel. 'OK', quite simply, is not an option
for the YES! Group. As such, they have
The best experiences are relatable to relationships.
They are born, grown and nurtured through a
dialogue between different parties with shared
aims. The same is true of architecture and design
and, by extension, the hospitality industry at large.
By forging a dialogue between some of the leading
figures in the art, design and service industries,
YES! have succeeded in breaking new ground
where other “design hotels” continue to tread
well-worn territory and rely on gimmickry. Simply
talking about the group's approach is exciting
because with it comes the recognition that this
is, without question, the future of the hospitality
industry.
A quick overview of some of the people involved in
the planning of these urban interventions is richly
enlightening – not to mention hugely impressive.
The group is the brainchild of international art
collector and patron Dakis Joannou. Each of
the group's five hotels – the Semiramis, NEW
hotel, Twentyone, Periscope and the Kefalari
Suites – were commissioned as a bespoke project
by Mr Joannou, with the individual designers
responsible for each one given free reign to create
not just a hotel but a totally immersive experience.
As a result, each hotel comes across more as an
installation piece-museum hybrid than mere
accommodation.
The aforementioned NEW hotel was overseen by
design duo Fernando and Humberto Campana
with a nod to their reputation as pioneers of
eco-sensitive design grounded in hand-crafted
techniques and colloquial effects. Where themes
so often give the impression of being more of an
artificial patina as opposed to something that is
integral to a construction, the approach of Mr
Joannou and the Campana brothers bears fruit
in the remarkably eccentric but utterly holistic
results discernible in NEW hotel. Zig-zagging cutout mirrors, chairs and curtains made of materials
that mimic draped seaweed, green painted rooms
bedecked in marble slab finishings...all of these, in
addition to the incredible wood effects described
above, give the hotel the appearance of something
that has risen from the earth organically and
entirely of its own volition. The combination of
quality craftsmanship and naturally led, utterly
artistic design gives the New Hotel a unique sense
of extravagant yet harmonious beauty.
The same principles are enacted for an entirely
different result in the case of the Semiramis. In this
instance, Karim Rashid was commissioned for his
unmistakable signature style – modern, youthful,
playful and featuring curvaceous forms and bright,
vibrant colours throughout. This, complemented
by a regularly rotating selection of highly-prized
contemporary art from Mr Joannou's collection,
results in an irrepressibly vivacious, stylishly bold
and ultimately modern construction.
The thing to remember here is that YES! Hotels
are not just another example of self-trumpeting
architectural follies which worship at the temple
of form while forgoing function. There is method
in the near-madness of Semiramis' multi-coloured
swimming pool or fluorescent glass panelling, just
as there is in NEW hotel's bead and figured based
wall motifs. The former cements the impression of
the Semiramis as an ultra-modern destination, built
to be a cornerstone of the affluent and fashionable
Kifissia suburb of Athens. It was born of a desire
to reflect an understanding of and appreciation for
the values and experiences integral to the world
of contemporary entertainment, fashion and art.
As such, the hotel's construction and ethos makes
a point of encompassing the highest standard of
unique, cutting-edge artistic and technological
design points.
This piece was written from the perspective
that there is no greater indulgence than to be
surrounded by beauty. And if beauty alone is
a luxury then beauty underpinned by reason
is worth even more. YES! hotels represent an
indulgence to which we have become accustomed
at any top quality hospitality establishment. It is
the story of these hotels, however, the incredible
degree of thought and creativity that abounds in
each of the five Athenian hotels, which sets them
apart from other travelling experiences. Beyond
Indulgence? The answer is an unequivocal YES!
gone out of their way to perfect a standard
of design in each of their five properties
that is at once arresting and flamboyant
without being garish or tacky. In their own
words, the group describe their approach as
enacting the values contained within their
name – an acronym for “Young, Enthusiastic
and Seductive”.
The youthful, effervescent designs are not
the primary element of the hotel group's
philosophy, however. One would be forgiven
Filellinon Street, 16, Athens 10557, Greece / Email: rsv@yeshotels.gr / www.yeshotels.gr
Beyond Indulgence
royal
hotel
san remo
Royal Hotel Sanremo is something to behold. Perched
above the sparkling bay, the stunning Belle Epoque
palazzo dominates the San Remo landscape with its
unquestionable opulence.
T
he supremely elegant, fine art adorned
lobby with its sweeping stairway and
marmorino columns, the deep white sofas,
the views from each successive reception
room and finally, the attentive staff, all
make an unmistakable statement: this is a
grand hotel in the time-honoured sense of
the word, rather than a fly by night modern
pretender.
Our suite on the 5th floor looks over the
palm-fringed garden of the restaurant and
beyond that, the huge diamond shaped
pool that looks like 3 connected pools.
The sheer size of it all is impressive but it is
the unadulterated beauty of the views from
the suites, the sun, scents and colours of
the Mediterranean that add up to a sense of
perfect happiness.
Our bathroom is almost the size of the
suite and although we seldom write
about amenities, B Beyond being entirely
dedicated to reviewing the absolute best, it
is noteworthy in its own right.
Sipping from the bottle of Prosecco,
compliments of the management, relaxing
on the balcony, we decide to stay an
additional night rather than move further
up the coats the next day.
I am keen to try out the candle-lit garden
restaurant, Il Giardino, and what a good
decision that is!
Our dinner included:
• a delicious cream of beans soup
from Pigna with mussels and clams,
a combination I hadn’t encountered
before but one that works extremely well.
The spa
The spa, on the ground floor of the hotel
offers Payot treatments, a fitness room
and an indoor hot pool. A daily ‘menu’ of
specials on offer is posted and although we
didn’t get a chance to try them out, they all
sounded eminently covetable.
The hospitality
When it comes to hospitality and service,
the Italians do it better every time and so it
is hardly surprising that most grand hotels
around the world employ Italian staff.
Whether through training or natural
instinct, they combine warmth with
professionalism and quite literally brighten
your day.
B Beyond has to admit here to a strong
partiality to all things Italian and to Italians
in particular. We have been returning to
the country over and over again – with or
without TasteMaker (www.thetastemaker.
org) subscribers – and each time, we find
something new and amazing to write about.
Royal Hotel is a case in point.
Even though we know San Remo extremely
well, this trip was something of a revelation.
The elegant city has been a hub of wealthy
Russians who have already colonised
everywhere from Cap Ferrat to
Ospedaletti and lifted real estate
prices. This is a trend set to
continue because, quite simply,
the Italian Riviera is no less
beautiful than the French – and
the Italians… well, this cannot be
overstated, they do do it better.
• Goose liver terrine with black truffles in
Muscat jelly, a rich and flavoursome dish
just as the name suggests, the sweetness of
the Muscat giving it added sophistication.
• salads and a selection of rare cheese, washed
down with a Bardolino rose, Cà de Frati
• and finally, a rich raspberry Vacherin.
Corso Imperatrice 80
18038 Sanremo (Im), Italy
Tel. +39 0184 5391
reservations@royalhotelsanremo.com
royalhotelsanremo.com
Beyond Indulgence
B
eyond global centres of commerce and major national
metropoleis, it is difficult to think of a place that evokes
such a unique sensation as New Orleans.
The Big Easy has become synonymous with a particular approach
to life – one of laissez-faire, of revelry and excitement, and of
casual and habitual luxury. The expression joie de vivre might
have been invented specifically for the Creole capital. Even after
the devastating effects of Hurricane Katrina, it is a testament to
the character of the city and its people that events such as Mardi
Gras and the Jazz & Heritage Festival were never cancelled and
have continued in the same spirit in which they were conceived.
The Audubon Cottages in hemselves could perhaps be said to
represent the Phoenix-like spirit of Louisiana's largest urban
centre. They were built shortly after another natural disaster –
a series of two great fires in the late eighteenth century which
destroyed much of the city. From the early nineteenth century
seven residences. King and/or Queen size beds feature in each,
along with various combinations of private fountains, charming
fireplaces, hardwood floors and crystal chandeliers. With private
courtyards and wrought-iron furnishings completing the effect
of old-world mystique meets modern day glamour, it is small
wonder that Hollywood golden girl Elizabeth Taylor favoured
the residences during her stays in New Orleans.
The
beauty
of
the
buildings
themselves, the setting, the pool
and the wonderfully lush garden
might not be enough for some
guests, however. In which case,
Audubon also makes sure that they
thinking, welcoming conurbations of what was to become the
by providing a dedicated, on-site
USA.
French Butler service. This is what
and naturalist John James Audubon – the cottages' namesake –
stayed in what is now known as Cottage 1 of the collection while
working on illustrations for his seminal book Birds of America.
Set deep in the French Quarter, each of the Audubon Cottages
have a story to tell – from wartime stories to tales of hauntings all infused with a deliciously local Creole twist.
These residences, originally built in a French colonial style but
subsequently updated through periods of Spanish occupation
New Orleans is, without question, one of the great historical melting pots
of the United States. As such, it is always a privilege to experience that wellcherished heritage through the lens of contemporary standards of indulgence.
The Audubon Cottages collection specialises in filling that niche precisely.
with home comforts taken to a superlative level in each of the
cater to every guest's every need
their own place in history. During the year 1821-2, famed painter
Audubon
Cottages
are described as 'the premier bed and breakfast alternative',
onwards, the city established itself as one of the great free-
On a micro-scale, Audubon Cottages were quietly establishing
The
Stepping inside the cottages, you can tell immediately why they
truly sets Audubon apart from their
competition: where the indulgent
experiences of some establishments
end
with
corporate
the
style
revelation
and
of
a
impersonal
level of service (or, conversely, the
amateur attempts of some B&Bs),
Audubon goes beyond what many might expect of a boutique
hotelier. The butler is available every day to every guest to offer a
complete individual service. From unpacking suitcases to making
dinner reservations at recommended restaurants, Audubon's
to short-lived Republican freedom, and from the American
butler service combines the benefits of a concierge with that of
Revolution through to the present day, are 'cottages' only in
a personal valet - and everything in between.
name. Exquisitely decorated, gilded with vine-like plants and
an abundance of bright flowers, and positioned around what is
commonly held to be the oldest swimming pool in the French
Quarter, these are guest houses of the highest quality. Beautiful
stone and brickwork abound in a communal area outside the
pool itself, which is refreshingly and authentically salt-watered
in a region that is famed for its maritime exploits.
Just one block from the celebrated Bourbon Street, yet
surprisingly ensconced in a quiet and peaceful setting, Audubon
Cottages are ideally situated for almost any occasion to visit the
Big Easy. And, frankly, when considering this beautifully hiddenaway retreat, positioned in the heart of a city with the magic of
New Orleans, why would you need an excuse?
509 Dauphine St.
New Orleans, LA 70112
United States
Tel: +1 504-586-1516
www.auduboncottages.com
Beyond Indulgence
Brenners Park
Hotel & Spa
Baden-Baden is the original spa destination. The region's organic springs
have been used for bathing since the days of the Roman Emperor Hadrian.
Small wonder, then, that the town was named after its primary leisure
activity ('baden' translates from German as 'bathing' or 'baths').
renners Park Hotel is to Baden-Baden what the natural springs
are to the beautiful, Black Forest German town itself. It is one
of the seminal grand hotels in the area, having first opened its
doors to international dignitaries over 140 years ago. The original
property, known as 'Stéphanie les Bains' - for its French character
- or 'Stephanienbad' was bought by Anton Brenners in 1872. The
turn of the century established it as one of the most important
spa retreats, not just in Europe, but around the world. In 1907, for
example, the hotel played host to King Chulalongkorn of Siam
and Laos and his retinue – just one of many royal visits over the
years.
B
Whether you've earned it (after a long day of exercise) or not (after
a long day of pampering at the Spa), the retreat offers a wide variety
of exceptional dining options, startin with the one Michelin starred
Brenners Park Restaurant which offers a full gourmet experience
headed up by Executive Chef Paul Stradner. Other dining options
include the ‘Wintergarten’ restaurant serving Mediterranean
dishes or guests may also sample some traditional Black Forest
Gateau at afternoon tea in the cosy 'Kaminhalle'. There is also
the ‘Rive Gauche’, which offers Mediterranean-themed dining
experiences located in the heart of the Lichtentaler Alle (the
enchanting and historic park and arboretum in Baden-Baden).
The hotel's charms, then, are hardly a secret. 100 bedrooms offer
a winning combination of supreme comfort and exceptional
luxury, reflected in each room's individual décor and furnishings,
enhanced by elegant antiques and luxurious marble bathrooms.
While the hotel undoubtedly retains an air of unfettered opulence,
it is the unparalleled level of service from the Brenner's Park staff
that keeps people returning year after year.
More than anything else, however, Brenner's Park is renowned
for its luxurious spa facilities including a heated swimming pool,
sauna and steam rooms and an extensive medical facility. In 2014,
the hotel will look both to the future and its past with the opening
of the nostalgically named‘’Villa Stéphanie’, a destination spa and
wellness centre extending over five floors and comprising of a
500-square-metre sauna, Kneipp therapeutic pools, a plunge pool,
a private fitness centre and a Hamman.
Beyond the indulgences of the accommodation itself, the myriad
activities available for health purists and outdoors enthusiasts are
staggering. Baden-Württemberg is a region famous for its outdoor
activities, from mountain biking and climbing to golf and water
sports. The town itself is also home to one of the most famous
casinos in the world and is a few miles from the international
racecourse at Iffezheim.
Schillerstraße 4-6, 6530 Baden-Baden
Germany
Phone:+49 7221 9000
Email: information@brenners.com Beyond Indulgence
Frégate Island Private in the Seychelles is the newest addition to the
Oetker Collection of masterpiece hotels, having joined the portfolio in
July 2013. This singular luxury retreat occupies an entire private island
in the middle of the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean.
B
eautifully crafted and nestled into
the coastline, its 16 residences are
naturally secluded – all have their own
luxurious terrace, large private infinity
pool and jacuzzi. On the island (which is
the size of Monaco) guests can also enjoy
seven stunning beaches with the option
to 'exclusively hire' their own, including
the beach acclaimed amongst the 10 best
beaches in the world.
In addition to the amazing coastline, lush
forest and world-protected fauna, the
resort is a secluded haven of peace – a true
masterpiece and a jewel of conservation
in the Seychelles: Frégate Island Private
is home to the second largest population
of Giant Aldabra Land Tortoises and is the
nesting home to endangered turtle species.
The benefits for guests staying at Frégate
Island Private, Seychelles go far beyond
the local natural beauty, however. In
addition to the varied inclusive activities:
sailing,
windsurfing,
sea
kayaking,
snorkeling, hiking, mountain biking,
volleyball, badminton, tennis, bocce ball
and guided nature walks with the island
ecologists, Frégate Island Private also
offers a myriad complementary services to
all guests – including various treatments at
the retreat's acclaimed Rock Spa.
Frégate
Island Private
Fregate Island Private, P.O. Box 330,
Victoria, Mahé, Republic of Seychelles
Telephone: +49 7221 900 8071
Email: welcome@fregate.com
One of the main draws of the spa is
that it offers what Frégate describe as
“bespoke holistic health experiences”
with Ayurvedic Physician, Dr. Abhilash
Haridas. Following an initial consultation,
Dr. Haridas creates individually tailored programmes
to help each guest achieve a balanced state of body,
mind and consciousness through a combination of
Ayurvedic therapies and highly personalised Ayurvedic
wellness cuisine. This new spa concept sees Frégate
Island Private distinguishing itself as the only resort
in the Seychelles to specialise in this renowned Indian
science of preventative health and healing.
Emphasising preventative and healing therapies
along with various methods of purification and
detoxification, Ayurveda is more than simply a healing
system. Guests can either choose a three-day Ayurvedic
experience, or extend this for the full duration of their
stay at Frégate Island Private. Their programme is then
created specifically to suit their individual needs, with
therapies such as Shiro dhara, Kati Basti and Pinda
Sweda complemented by personalised daily Ayurvedic
dining menus - designed in conjunction with Frégate’s
dynamic executive chef Arnaud Davin, and based
primarily on fresh ingredients grown organically on
the island’s own plantation or line-caught within a few
nautical miles of the island’s shores.
Various complimentary benefits for guests staying at
Fregate Island Private include:
An introductory morning yoga session at the Rock Spa.
The yoga experts will provide meditation exercises
for 55 minutes of pure relaxation in a peaceful Spa
Pavilion.
A welcome ‘head & shoulder’ massage. The Rock
Spa’s skilled therapists will treat guests to a 55-minute
massage, using the pioneering Ayurvedic techniques,
and using Rock Spa products made in the Seychelles
with ingredients grown on the island. A half-day deep-sea fishing excursion to sample the
authentic taste of the Indian Ocean. Seychelles has
some of the richest fishing ground in the world. The
resort’s Captain is an expert in the surrounding waters
and will show guests the abundance and diversity of
local fish, such as Tuna, Dorado or Wahoo, before Chef,
Arnaud Davin, prepares the catch (any style) for guests:
grilled, plancha, sushi…
An introduction to scuba diving. The island’s
passionate diving staff will show guests the most
unspoiled spots to appreciate the beauty of Seychelles’
brilliantly coloured and abundant underwater life.
Beyond Indulgence
Lough Eske
a fire and had to be rebuilt before the hotel opened in 2007).
Also apparent, though, is a sense of local dominance beyond
the time of English control in the area. The remnants of a
medieval castle belonging to powerful Gaelic landowners, the
O’Donnells, can still be seen in the woods just to the north of
the newer structure - and the site has clearly always been the
seat of authority for the local community.
There is a widely
accepted credo that
appears in most sporting
analysis: that a lack of
competition breeds
complacency. The same
principle applies across
a wide spectrum of
different industries most pertinently, in this
context, to the field of
hospitality.
T
here are a wealth of examples of
restaurants, once patronised by the
great and the good, being abandoned as a
result of slackening standards. Similarly,
service in certain top-tier establishments
has frequently been called into question
after a few consecutive years at the top.
Despite its stature as the only 5 star hotel in
Ireland’s Country Donegal, however, Solis’
Lough Eske Castle is a welcome exception
to that rule.
The area known as the Wild Northwest of
the Emerald Isle certainly has no shortage of
optimal reasons to attract visitors. Typified
by its rolling, sandy beaches and its rugged
mountainous backdrop, Donegal is also
punctuated by a multitude of natural lakes
set apart from the indented coastline – and it
is from these lakes that Lough Eske takes its
name. The Solis property looms majestically
over the freshwater lough (lake) in a manner
befitting its imposing Elizabethan-style
architecture (after its initial construction in
the 19th century, the castle was destroyed by
Lough Eske Castle
Lough Eske, Donegal Town
County Donegal, Ireland
T. +353 7497 25100
Email: reservations.lougheske@
solishotels.com
The imposing style of the castle’s facade has been pared
down by a soft, welcoming interior. As a spa as well as a hotel,
Lough Eske is characterised by a natural, soothing décor. A
light and airy feel pervades both the private and the common
areas – although the rooms’ comfort do not suffer as a result.
In fact, it is quite the opposite: the hotel’s down to earth
charms belie the supreme quality underpinning each and
every understated yet sumptuously luxurious fitting. Lough
Eske boasts 96 rooms in total, including various suites
bordering the castle’s extensive courtyard.
It is fair to say that the appeal of any hotel can be underlined (or
otherwise) by its surroundings and, when set in that context,
Lough Eske makes a decisive case. This part of Ireland is a
remote haven for wildlife, a naturally beautiful location for
golf lovers and a world of its own for avid explorers. The sea
and lake offer fishing, sailing and scuba-diving experiences,
while the myriad beach and forest trails encourage hiking,
biking and horse riding. Clay pigeon shooting is a well known
pastime in the area and, although some might stand aghast at
the prospect of surfing in a region which borders the often
bracing climate of Northern Ireland, the palpable evidence of
the Gulf Stream here makes the weather pleasantly mild and
temperate – particularly in the Summer months.
The more adventurous guests might also consider a trip
to the Island of Toraigh, some 12km off the coast from the
eponymous main town of Donegal. Its seclusion over the
years has seen it largely preserve its traditional Gaelic culture
until the present day, which makes it a fascinating place to
visit almost in and of itself. Those with a checklist approach,
however, should certainly be aware of various prestigious local
sites: a round tower that once protected monks from Viking
raids, the ruins of St. Colmcille’s 6th century monastery and
the intriguing Tau Cross that suggests early seafaring links
to the Coptic Christians of Egypt. Over and above this, the
island also offers activities such as Scuba diving, cycling, sea
angling, rock climbing, bird watching, traditional music &
dance and dolphin and (at certain times of the year) whale
watching.
To complete the Donegal experience, Lough Eske castle’s spa
offers a welcome rest and retreat from the rigours of rural
exploration. The hotel’s Spa Solis features eight treatment
rooms made up of five single treatment rooms, two couple
suites with a jet bath and steam room and a pedicure/
manicure room. Additionally, a Thermal Suite houses an ice
fountain, sauna, steam room, sanarium, tropical experience
showers, heated bench and an infinity pool. A fitness centre
and 17m swimming pool makes up an impressive set-up at the
Spa without even delving into their long-standing expertise
in the field of aromatherapy.
The trick to ensuring that a business stays at the top without
clear competition, one might argue, is to diversify. The myriad
appeals of Lough Eske, and the Donegal area as a whole,
mean that the hotel is pushed to maintain high standards
across the board of hospitality. Whether that is with regards
to comfort, design, service, concierge efficiency or any other
aspect of what makes this destination a cut above the rest,
Lough Eske continues to pass each test with flying colours.
Beyond Indulgence
Eilean Shona is a private island, complete with eight bedroom residence,
off the West Coast of Scotland. This Highlands retreat is as secluded
as it gets for holiday makers looking for a private place for a Swallows
and Amazons style family getaway or precisely the opposite – the ideal
location for the ultimately exclusive adult party.
EILEAN SHONA
J
ust two and a half miles wide by one and a half miles
long, the sequestered spot hosts a dazzling diversity
of landscapes: from its wooded Eastern side covered in
a sea of rare and magnificent trees to its wild, rugged
Western side. The island’s highest point is 265m above sea
level from where there are spectacular views out to the
Hebridean islands, Ardnamurchan and Arisaig.
The main (and, indeed, only) house is a large British
country residence designed with comfort and quaint
simplicity in mind. The eight bedrooms are very
generously apportioned with additional space with beds
on the uppermost floor should one be required to provide
makeshift accommodation. Five bathrooms each contain a
huge oversized bath and fortunately, unlike an all too large
number of Scottish houses, Eilean Shona can boast to an
ample supply of hot water with which to fill them.
The house is a wonderful base of operations from which
to explore the many delights of the Scottish Highlands.
Nature walks are the obvious draw (the island also plays
host to an array of seabirds, deer, seals, otters, eagles and
birds of prey, red squirrels and the rare pine marten) but
this is also an ideal place for artists due to the undisturbed
natural light and overwhelming tranquillity. Those of
a more active persuasion will be enticed by the on-site
tennis court and billiards room.
Eilean Shona can be booked for a week at a time by
contacting the owner, Vanessa Branson, directly via email
(primarily) vbranson.pa@gmail.com - or secondarily by
telephone on 07866 429204.
Beyond Indulgence
floor-to-ceiling glass windows that look out over
the Harbour. Its function as part of the retreat is
that of an on-site co-operative shop and café that
offers guests a taste of local produce. Although
visitors receive a hamper on arrival containing
freshly baked bread, speciality cheese and wine, it
is the locally distilled Old Pulteney Malt Scotch
Whisky that really stands out here.
john o’groats
If there were three words to encapsulate the
philosophy of Natural Retreats, the travel
company who have lovingly restored the
ancient inn at John O’Groats, they would be
‘attention to detail’. The eco-conscious group,
famed for developing various self-catering travel
destinations set in areas of outstanding natural
beauty around the world, have taken the Victorian
In addition to paying homage to history, however,
planning for the future is also central to sustainable
redevelopment. Here, again, Natural Retreats have
been meticulous in their approach to re-crafting
a beautiful site that will stand the test of time.
Prospective visitors to the region, it must be said,
have occasionally been put off by a preposterous
misconception of Scotland as a ‘dour’ country.
That myth is firmly dispelled by a single glance
at the new extension to the Inn at John O’Groats:
a Norse style set of individual steeples (covering
a number of bespoke apartments) , each daubed
in an eye-popping burst of colour that contrasts
gloriously to the craggy, windswept landscape. All
of the apartments within feature modern kitchen/
living areas, stylish bedrooms and bathrooms and
a variety of carefully chosen windows, selected
purposefully to ensure that guests have the best
vantage points from which to enjoy far-reaching
views of the dramatic John O’Groats scenery.
With a panorama that stretches from across the
Pentland Firth onto the islands of Stroma and the
Orkneys, these are unquestionably some of the
most breathtaking coastal views in Scotland.
Barring the pristine beauty of the natural
environment, the undoubted jewel in the crown
of the John O’Groats Inn, it is the individual
private Residences that take pride of place on
the site. In addition to the main building, the Inn
maintains 23 such residences, built to the same
high standard which saw Natural Retreats pick
up an award for John O’Groats’ sister property in
the Yorkshire Dales. Just as the apartments in the
main building are designed to give the best views
possible around the area, so too is each residence
uniquely positioned to showcase the majesty of the
natural background. Sustainable thinking is, again,
deliberately and conscientiously thought out here.
To protect each residence from the exhilarating
winds that billow over the landscape, the Retreat
now incorporates ‘bunds’ – naturally landscaped
mounds that both act as wind-breakers and afford
additional privacy to each residence. Even the
roofs atop each building has been designed with
the environment in mind – the tightly insulated,
spacious cabins feature living roofs made with a
unique blend of sedum and wildflower. The result
leaves one wondering whether these incredibly
dappled creations have simply sprung out of the
ground of their own free will.
Anyone familiar with the British Isles will know
the importance of the area as a heritage sight –
particularly with regards to the traditional ‘End
to End’ challenge, whereby participants make
the adventurous journey from one end of the
country’s mainland to the other. They would also,
in all likelihood, be aware of the incredible beauty
and diversity of the ecosystem in this part of
Scotland, perfectly isolated against the Highlands
on one side and the remote, perhaps even underappreciated, splendour of the North Sea on the
other. With this in mind, the Inn offers guests the
chance to experience this unique side of nature at
first hand. In addition to cliff walking and treks
into unspoilt forests or sandy white beaches (from
which, on a clear night, one can sometimes catch
a glimpse of the Northern Lights), the retreat
organises sea safaris for visitors to potentially
encounter Orca (‘killer’) whales, grey sales and a
myriad more oceanic flora and fauna.
The truth is that it must be tempting to let
nature take centre stage when developing a site
so richly steeped in beauty, history and prestige.
Sustainable lifestyle, although of paramount
importance, has become an expectation amongst
savvy, conscientious travels. What is so impressive
about the Natural Retreats re-development at John
O’Groats is the group’s willingness to look beyond
the obvious and expected and ensure that every
detail is thoroughly and properly thought out. It
is as if the company have taken their concierge
policy – where they provide a dedicated travel
advisory team for every visit (so rare for a company
that specialises in self-catered trips) – and applied
the same level of care to every aspect of their
properties. It is an exceptional trait for such an
ambitious company to have – and one that they
display and act upon with aplomb.
landmark, positioned at the northerly pinnacle of
the British mainland, and updated it to a standard
of contemporary comfort and style.
I
n keeping with the group’s sensitive (not to
mention sensible) thinking with regards to
sustainability, the property, originally built in 1875,
has been restored with a preference for using local
craftsmen and materials wherever possible.
Given Natural Retreats’ clearly defined strategic
nous for sustainable and environmentally friendly
redevelopment, one might ask why we have not
picked up on this over and above the group’s
purported attention to detail? The answer is
immediately apparent to anyone who steps foot
into the John O’Groats Inn: the former is borne
out - and taken to new heights - by the latter. The
main building has been updated in such a way as
to retain all but one (the now redundant flagpole)
of the individual, iconic features of the original
construction. Caithness stone and Scottish Larch
timber bedeck the inn’s excellently insluated yet
impressively staunch-looking walls and parquet
floors.
Where original buildings remained at a high
standard, Natural Retreats have incorporated
them into the overall masterplan of the area’s
regeneration. The old cottar’s house – traditionally
John O’Groats, Wick,
Caithness KW1 4YR, UK
the dwelling of a Highland’s peasant farmer
– on the site has been a part of the area since
time immemorial and was inhabited until fairly
recently. As such, rather than see it destroyed
or become dilapidated, the building has been
carefully renovated to house the site’s Outfitters –
a shop for clothing, equipment and all manner of
supplies to allow guests to explore the breathtaking
surroundings of the Scottish Highlands. Similarly,
the storehouse – developed into a fairly simplistic
portable cabin until as recently as 2010 – has been
re-imagined as a quirky, design-led space that
boasts kitchen facilities, wood-burning fires and
Phone:+44 844 384 3166
Email: info@naturalretreats.com
Beyond Indulgence
geoffrey
kent
Founder of Abercombie
& Kent Travel
Geoffrey Kent,
the man behind the
eponymous travel company (there is no Abercrombie), is one of the best raconteurs I have
ever had the pleasure to meet.
That is not his claim to fame, of course – not as far as the general
public is aware, anyway.
He is better known as a pioneer who keeps re-inventing the art of
travel as a matter of inclination but also to ward off attempts at imitation.
Among the polo playing crowd, he is known as an intrepid player
– one of the best in fact - with a number of major trophies to his
name.
He and I both know that I am at his home to hear about Abercrombie & Kent, but the man is irrepressible and the tales literally pour
out of him.
He tells me that David Rockefeller, profiled in B Beyond a few years
back, was the great catalyst behind the company as it now is. Not
only did he give young Kent one of his first major breaks when he
let him organise a business conference in Africa, he remains a client
and a friend to this day.
Fifty years ago, Kent started a small travel company with his parents
- with not much more than a refrigerated Bedford truck and his
mother’s silver ice bucket - and has since turned it into a formidable brand that strides miles ahead of any other in the industry.
This is because, in addition to all those things mentioned above, he
is also a visionary with a head for business and a talent for perseverance that are truly impressive.
Not content with being ‘our travel man in Kenya’, young Kent decided to broaden the company base in the ‘70s by going to North
Africa and to Egypt in particular.
‘Everyone should see the pyramids before they die’, he says, ‘it’s the
number 1 bucket list item’.
Having taken a Nile cruise before this was fashionable, he came up
with the idea of leasing the entire boat used for filming Death on the
Nile and organising his own trips. The first attempt ended up in near
disaster and taught him a valuable lesson: that it is better to control
the operation from start to end than rely on any suppliers.
The way he tells the story is anecdotal, as these things become after
time, but you sense that it must have been a watershed point for
him.
‘I had this very VIP group from New York. They were all having a
drink on board when the engine was started. The engine hadn’t
been used forever, of course, and suddenly, this huge cloud of soot
landed on everything. The guests were all completely covered in it,
none of the toilets worked, nothing worked…’
Kent cancelled the trip and flew his guests back to New York.
‘Lucky mine wasn’t a very big company at the time’, he says, ‘or this
would have been a major PR disaster. This was my first experiment
of trying to get out of Kenya and while the idea was right, the execution was bad’.
I suppose others might have dissolved then and there in a pool of
embarrassment, but not Geoffrey Kent. Undeterred, he decided to
build his own small ship, put a swimming pool on it (the first ever
on a Nile river boat) and hire the best local guides. This ‘worked
perfectly’.
He knew then that he would have to build his own end user product
(EUP in Abercrombie & Kent parlance) and ensure that the guides
were indeed great, providing that ‘last mile of the experience’. He
hired and trained local people, Kenyans and Egyptians, and made
sure there were always enough guides on each trip to act as hosts.
Guests could meet the guides’ families, talk about the country with
a native and have a feeling of belonging. In the 70’s, this must have
been a life-changing experience.
Geoffrey Kent could have easily carried on like that for a good long
time and certainly until newcomers came to challenge his established operation. But the man is nothing if not a strategist, so he
looked at options of spreading the operation into new territories
instead – places where ‘you couldn’t drink the water’. As ever, there
is an anecdote that accompanies the quip.
‘My father went to Kenya in 1936 with the King’s African Rifles’, he
begins. ‘Whenever we asked, ‘what are we going to do these holidays’, he’d reply, ‘we are going to another place where you can’t
drink the water’.
‘He loved that expression. It meant, of course, we would be going to
a place that was exciting, a place where few people had ever been.
Beyond Indulgence
We went all over Africa, on these truly amazing
trips. So, my strategy was and still is, where is
the next place where you can’t drink the water?’
His strategy is, in fact, more elaborate than that.
He would go to a place, buy the EUP, build the
logistics around it and add that famous last mile
of experience, the guides.
Still in the 1970’s he was already spreading to
South Africa and looking at India. The country
had two attractions: water you couldn’t drink
and polo.
Kent ‘s polo playing career is well-documented.
He was one of the world’s best amateur players
in his time and captained Prince Charles’ team.
His slightly out of sequence (1980s) anecdote
is part of the game’s colourful history and one
where he was centre stage. He was asked to be
a referee at a polo match in the 1980s when one
of the then top players, Col RS “Pickles” Sodhi
broke his collarbone in a big collision.
Knowing it’s very hard to replace a 5 goal player,
Geoffrey Kent had a premonition of what was
coming as he watched the Maharajah of Jaipur
stride towards him.
“Bubbles”, as the Maharajah is affectionately known, used every argument in the book,
including old regiment loyalty and personal
friendship, to persuade Kent to step in and replace Sodhi.
‘Wait a bit,’ thought Kent, ‘I have never ridden
these horses, I am not psyched up…’, then he
decided not to over-think it.
‘OK, I’ll do it.’ They had to announce on the
loudspeaker that breeches, boots and helmet
were needed in his size. Once kitted out and on
the field, he had, he says ‘a sheer lucky ball, and
then another and another’. He scored 3 goals
in all and won the India Open Championship.
But back in the 70’s, his first thought was that
no one was promoting India and the sheer excitement of it properly. It was Aisha, the late
Rajmata of Jaipur, who encouraged him to go to
the Pushkar Fair, because ‘all people do when
they come to India is sit around the palaces all
day long’. Just like Aisha, who was as outspoken as she was beautiful….
Kent went on to become the first company to
offer a high end camp at Pushkar.
From India, he got the confidence to spread
even further afield and started taking groups to
Nepal (he even took Prince Charles on expeditions there) and to Bhutan.
One of the places he always wanted to go to was
Sri Lanka, but was deterred by the continual
problems in the country. Last year, he finally
bought an office and raised the A&K flag there.
‘Where aren’t you?’, I ask him.
He explains that when he considers a new destination, the first question is: ‘Do we have our
own ground operating company there?’
‘We are not in Brazil. We sell Brazil and operate
ships on the Amazon River, but we don’t actually own a ground operating company there. My
wife is from Brazil and we have a home in Florianopolis. Brazil has a lot of potential. It is a vast,
beautiful and largely undiscovered country but
there are no 5 star properties, so we would like
to do that in the future.’
But the thing that most excites Geoffrey Kent
at the moment is his new venture: private jet
safaris.
He has just come back, he informs me, from the
Serengeti, where he took 40 people on a private
A&K jet to watch the wildebeest migration.
‘Since the very early days of A&K, I decided
that I wanted to take on tours very sophisticated
people (who are usually very wealthy people).
I’ve never had an interest in a mass market operation and A&K is the only company that has
never compromised on this. But you have to
continually come up with new product because
others are always trying to copy us. One of my
‘favourite’ marketing pitches is: ‘We are as good
as A&K ‘ – which, of course, they are not – ‘but
half the price’.
He says his new venture re-focused his mind
on that vital component of the A&K trips: the
guides.
He decided to introduce a new concept – that of
hosts. The A&K hosts had to be ‘top notch people’ – sophisticated, charming, knowledgeable
and above all, very well-travelled. They needed
to be able to tell a good yarn.
It must have occurred to Geoffrey somewhere
along the line that he was really looking for a
clone, because he decided to do the first trips
himself. He has since found 3 hosts – people
who have been in and out of A&K, know the
company well and have been clients in the past.
They are all the things he describes above AND
physically fit. He has, of course, also kept the
guides who provide the local knowledge.
How did the idea occur to him?
He considered what he had by way of end user
product that could not be easily replicated and
then it came to him.
‘Why don’t I do private jets, I was one of the first to
go on a Concorde flight and we (A&K) did round
the world trips by Concorde that were very successful. Plus, I know a lot about this business. Let’s
launch that again.’
‘So I launched two: one private jet trip around Africa and another around the world which will take
place in October 2014.’
‘I am pioneering this, so I am doing it myself. I
planned it by asking myself and answering this
question: If I had a private jet, where would I go?’
‘For the African tour, I took Lalibela in Ethiopia,
then Uganda to see the gorillas (I was the first to
build a gorilla camp there), then the wildebeest migration in the Serengeti ). I have a camp there, in the
middle of the migration route, from where you can
watch 1.5 million wildebeest - only during these 3
months of the year. It’s a fantastic feeling.
Namibia is next, then the Victoria Falls in Botswana,
where my favourite camp, Sanctuary Chief’s Camp,
sits on a 4000 ha reserve. It is the best camp in the
world.
We finish in Cape Town, drinking beautiful wine
and having great food and that’s the end of the trip.
When we first announced the trip, the whole thing
was sold in 6 weeks. My office said, if it is this successful why don’t we sell 15 days and then the return
trip? And that is what we did.
The round the world trip by private jet was based on
the same idea.
We will leave from Miami, fly to the Amazon, the
Galapagos, Machu Picchu, Easter Island, the South
Pacific islands, Papua New Guinea, the Komodo Is-
lands, Madagascar, the Maasai Mara and back home.
If I had a private jet, that’s the sort of trip I’d plan.
This trip sold out in 15 days.’
What, I wondered, makes his formula so successful? What he tells me makes perfect sense but
sounds much easier than it must be.
Geoffrey Kent knows his logistics better than
anyone else and this is what his clients pay for.
‘I worked out years ago that the number one thing
that ruins a trip is baggage. Having to deal with
packing, unpacking, customs, immigration, lost luggage…
I knew I had to control that.
A&K has its very own ‘Travelling Bell Boy’ service
which takes over the luggage logistics. Bags are labelled, colour-coded and numbered; they get loaded
and unloaded, taken through immigration, taken to
camp or a lodge and placed in the guest’s room. When
the guest leaves, the same thing is repeated in reverse.
The guests never see their luggage, except when they
need it.
Our luggage trucks are built on the FedEx model,
driving for up to 8-9 hours from one destination to the
next.’
Logistics aside, A&K is very much like its founder: an adrenaline-powered adventure-fuelled
concept with a certain undeniable style.
Kent goes on, ‘My whole life has been about putting together something that’s completely raw - a
kind of primal activity that’s full of underlying
excitement and where anything could happen –
then counter-balancing it with the most beautiful
comfortable camps, complete with flushing loos,
hot showers, electric lights… These camps are
very much like super hotel rooms, but transported in a truck.’
He adds, with a chuckle that he’s always marvelled at the average American’s definition of
danger: driving through the amber light on the
way to work.
The A&K trips are designed, he says, so that people can see really unusual things in safety.
Building on the success of, and obvious demand
for private jet safaris, he is planning trips for
smaller groups – 24 or even just 12 people at a
time – and for 9 to 12 days, to accommodate the
perennially busy schedule of his typical customer.
And while East Africa and India remain popular
destinations, he will be adding less familiar ones,
such as little explored parts of South America,
China, West Africa and the vast land-locked central region of the African continent. These are
trips for wealthy aficionados, he says, who know
that there will be an element of risk, but appreciate the fact that everything is taken care of.
How much risk, I ask?
By way of reply he tells me another story, this
time to do with space travel and how he went up
in a supersonic jet fighter, an English Electric
Lightning, in South Africa, just for the hell of it,
but also because he has a rule: test every package
before taking clients.
‘I’d push the envelope to the absolute edge’, he
says, ‘but will pull back if it’s not totally safe for
my clients. I have two mottos:
1. Go anywhere you can’t drink the water
2.
I’ll do it myself first. If it doesn’t work,
modify or re-design it’
The private jet travel concept opens up the whole
world, he says, and an off shoot of that is a new
business model – planning trips for people who
own their jets, but who wouldn’t know or can’t
be bothered to plan an exciting itinerary, not to
mention take care of logistics A&K style.
He plans to have distinct departure points for
different round the world trips, in addition to the
62 or so offices he already has around the world.
The beauty of the concept is that a competitor
would be hard-pressed to copy it. Kent goes back
to my first question: is he peeved at imitators?
The risk, he says, would deter most would-be
competitors, because the financial commitment is
just too high.
So Geoffrey Kent is at it again – pioneering - except this time round and after decades of reinventing the art of travel, he knows exactly how to
do it.
Why is he so driven, I wonder? The answer is an
oft-repeated line that punctuates our conversation: ‘You have to innovate’, says Kent, ‘you can’t
just sit on your laurels.’
And I have to ask you, dear reader, if you had to
pick any travelling companion, for a trip of a lifetime, would you pick anyone else?
Beyond Indulgence
SABI SABI
A quick glance (and gasp) at the stunning surroundings of Sabi Sabi Private
Game Reserve in South Africa should be enough to impress you. More than
that – it should instil some understanding as to the sense of guardianship
felt by those who maintain it. The Lodge is rightly proud of its role in
overseeing and protecting the breathtaking swathes of perfect wilderness for
a period of 35 years.
F
our equally luxurious lodges
sum up the standard of safari
excellence that Sabi Sabi has
set in the region of Sabi Sand
Wildtuin, part of greater Kruger
National Park. Between them, the
lodges reflect the heritage of the
reserve as a whole, with reference
to the historical thrill of the
newly cultivated bushveld in the
1800s ('Yesterday'), the comfort
and
updated
traditionalism
of the contemporary safari
experience ('Today') and the
resort's incipient approach to its
future of ecological conservation
and responsibility ('Tomorrow').
A tribute to the pioneers of the
grand steam train era of the late
1800’s, the historically themed
Selati Camp is the Sabi Sabi of
'Yesterday'. The most romantic
of Sabi Sabi’s four lodges, Selati
conjures up images of a time when
life was slower, a little gentler
and a lot more indulgent. The
8 beautifully appointed suites,
including the Ivory Presidential
Suite and Lourenco Marques
Honeymoon Suite, are filled
with authentic antiques, vintage
décor and railway memorabilia
- offering intimacy with a dash
of nostalgic opulence. The lodge
suites are all air-conditioned
with en-suite bathrooms and
outdoors showers.
The ‘Today’ experience is found
at Bush Lodge, with its traditional
safari style made new and exciting
with a vibrant and eclectic mix of
furnishings and décor garnered
from all corners of the African
continent. Accommodating only
25 couples, the lodge has earned
a reputation of warmth, service
excellence and personalised
attention. Bush Lodge has two
magnificent thatched viewing
decks and visitors can indulge in
watching the abundant wildlife
that regularly come to drink
from the nearby waterhole.
Being a family friendly lodge,
the popular EleFun Centre
has age appropriate children’s
programmes,
which
are
themed around the bushveld
environment. The lodge also
offers the award-winning Amani
African Spa with a range of
holistic treatments.
Little Bush Camp continues the
‘Today’ experience and exudes the
warmth of consummate African
hospitality. The lodge is intimate
– with just 6 suites, making it an
ideal retreat for those seeking an
idyllic hideaway. All suites are
air-conditioned with en-suite
bathroom and outdoor shower
as well as private decks each with
private spa bath, where you can
enjoy the surrounding bush in
complete seclusion.
Earth Lodge, the Sabi Sabi of
'Tomorrow', is a celebration of
ecological responsibility, which
belies its 5-Star rating and
standing as one of the world’s
top 10 destinations. Sculpted
into a slope of the earth, the
lodge merges so well into the
Beyond Indulgence
surrounding bushveld that it is virtually
invisible.
Sabi Sabi
4 Jameson Avenue,
Melrose Estate,
Johannesburg,
South Africa
Phone: +27 11 447-7172
Fax: +27 11 442-0728
res@sabisabi.com
Earth Lodge has been finely crafted
to reflect Africa’s mineral wealth in
tones of platinum, bronze, silver, gold
and copper. Magnificent chandeliers,
metal sculptures and natural fabrics all
enhance the lodge's perfect proportions
and gracefully curved walls in textures
and hues borrowed from nature.
Designed to instil a sense of peace, the
new-look lodge is the ultimate luxury
escape. Each of the 13 suites, including
the renowned Amber Suite, has a private
plunge pool and are all gloriously
luxurious.
Away from the main lodge, a
quiet meditation garden leads to the
award-winning Amani Spa, while the
underground cellar and its enviable wine
collection is a bonus for connoisseurs.
For the more energetic visitors, there
is also a new exercise centre that –
unlike your gym at home, or many other
for that matter – can boast endless
views of outstanding natural beauty.
As if that were not enough, guests can
also make use of the unique ‘day bar’.
Perfectly positioned at the pool, this is
the ideal place to doze on white muslinenclosed salas or relax, ankle-deep in
water, at stone-topped tables with a
refreshing cocktail– all the while taking
in the unending natural beauty of the
bushveld.
Simply put: the Earth Lodge is
a remarkable space that continues
to exceed our expectations in terms
of design, décor, sustainability and
sheer, unrivalled opulence. The same,
however, could easily be said of Sabi
Sabi as a whole. It is no surprise to see
it continually voted amongst the world's
finest safari destinations – especially
when one considers that this is a far
cry from a glorified 'glamping' trip.
The area is blessed with an astonishing
variety of flora and fauna. Guests have
an excellent chance of close encounters
with the Big 5 – lion, leopard, elephant,
buffalo and rhino – as well as cheetah,
wild dog and a plethora of other species
indigenous to the area.
Against the backdrop of Africa’s
ever-changing landscapes and rhythms
- from the clear light of dawn and the
pastel haze of late afternoon to the fiery
sunsets and sudden onset of night - the
abundance of animals and extraordinary
variety of birds exist in their unfenced
natural environment, as they have done
for centuries. In terms of genuine Big
Game and other wildlife spottings, this
is the real deal.
Sabi Sabi represents a wild, untamed
indulgence in a setting that only special
parts of Africa can provide. While
resorts of this ilk are doing all they can
to protect, enhance and sustain this sort
of incredible safari experience, there
is no guarantee that it will last forever.
All the more reason to embrace it now,
while we still can.
Beyond Indulgence
If ever there was an apt name
for a hotel, this has got to be
it – because, of all the ‘royal’
establishments out there, this
one is truly regal.
And so, the Royal Mansour has done everything
bigger and more luxurious than any of the
Marrakech greats. To begin with, the hotel could
just as easily be a museum or a gallery celebrating
Moroccan craftsmanship at its absolute best.
1200 craftsmen worked for 3 years to create
mosaics of exquisite beauty, gold leaf ceilings,
carved walls, and a multitude of exceptional
details that make for an exceptional interior.
fireplace (you would appreciate the wood fire if
visiting in the winter, even though the days are
balmy) and a terrace with a hot tub spa.
A
re you going to Marrakech on a commercial
flight? Don’t worry, the RM will give you the
private jet treatment on arrival anyway: as you step
on the tarmac, its representatives whisk you off to a
VIP area while they deal with passport control and
luggage collection.
The through walk starting at the entrance and
culminating at the garden and swimming pool
is a succession of plunge pools, intricate bird
cages, fountains and damasked sofas that make
you feel as if you’ve suddenly alighted on the set
of One Thousand and One Nights.
The ‘barely there’ staff use a dedicated service
entrance and would rekindle the fire on
request. We were pleased to have our fruit
platter replenished daily and appreciated the
personalised, gold-embossed stationery left for
us in a leather folder – a special touch that I have
not encountered anywhere else on my travels.
The black limousine delivers you to the hotel
compound where you are met by the prerequisite
Moroccan dress staff opening the gates to splendid
walled gardens that hide 52 private riads from
prying eyes.
Our riad, although one of the smallest, is spread
over 3 floors and comes with its enclosed
open air courtyard where you can relax while
stargazing, a sumptuous sitting room with a real
There are no rooms at Royal Mansour – every guest
gets his or her individual slice of paradise, complete
with their own spa or small pool (these, in addition
to the two main pools on the grounds – one open,
the other covered).
Marrakech has long been the secret of the beautiful
set but in the last decade or so, the secret got out
and the proliferation of sumptuous old houses
turned into B&Bs or boutique hotels has seen
the city metamorphose into one of the most chic
destinations in the world.
As the King of Morocco invested into Royal
Mansour, there was never going to be any question
of competition – even though it is not easy to
compete with established and iconic landmarks
such as the Mamounia next door.
The
Royal Mansour
Marrakech
The middle floor houses the sleeping quarters,
with the signature wooden shutters, soft leathers
and textured Moroccan fabrics. The bathroom is
a wet room with an Olympian size rose marble
pool.
The hotel spa is housed in its own building
of classic build and proportions, dreamily
positioned in a secret garden.
The hotel has 3 restaurants fringing its main
courtyard: a traditional Moroccan that was
perpetually full, a Grande Table Française that
is suitably formal and the breakfast/lunch one
in the gardens by the pool that is deservedly
popular. Indeed, we spotted Jack Lang, former
French Minister of Culture, there on the opening
day of the Marrakech Biennale.
The Royal Mansour is not a hotel for travellers
looking for value - rather, it is for those looking
to experience a dream-like indulgence of regal
proportions.
Rue Abou Abbas El Sebti
40 000 Marrakech, Morocco
Phone: + 212 5 29 80 80 80
Email: info@royalmansour.ma
Beyond Indulgence
Kasbah du
Toubkal
There is a word that refuses to
be dismissed when discussing
Morocco's Kasbah du Toubkal –
liminality. Used in various contexts
over the years, the most direct
translation from its original Latin
etymology is “threshold”. Fantasy
writers have long been fond of
describing the idea of a liminal
plane: an indistinct time or place
between two definitive points a world between worlds.
S
tanding on the cusp of
the Kasbah de Toubkal,
further explanations seem
unnecessary.
It is an awe-inspiring sight –
a place befitting fantasies or
legends. Perched delicately on a
precipice, straddling the divide
between the Atlas Mountains
and the flatter region further
north, this former summer
house of a local caïd (feudal
baron) is best described as a
bastion of tranquility in the
foothills of the highest peak
in the range - the Jbel (Mount)
Toubkal. Its solitary position in
front of this massive summit
seems nigh-on impossible, and
it is no great surprise that this
was the location chosen by Martin Scorcese for his mystical
epic, Kundun, based on the life of the 14th Dalai Lama.
What makes the Kasbah du Toubkal even more fascinating
is its relative proximity to tourist haven Marrakech. The
guesthouse offers car services to and from the city which
take just 90minutes in total. The fact that it neighbours
on so well-colonised an area as Marrakech should not be
underestimated – in fact, it goes some way to explaining the
underlying principles of the Kasbah.
Established in 1995, the founders – Chris and Mike McHugo
– opened the doors to the Kasbah du Toubkhal with a very
clear vision of sustainability. In so many cases the word
rings hollow, a mere buzzword designed to appease local
councils, the community, visitors and (of course) awardgivers. Not this time. After spending some considerable time
travelling around North Africa, and Morroco in particular,
the McHugo brothers bought the building that now houses
their guesthouse with a view to ensuring that the Berber
lifestyle that surrounds and permeates it would never be
diminished. The Kasbah, then, is the embodiment of an
adventure that never ended, a dream that never died.
The old caïd's summer house was subsequently restored
to a high standard to meet the burgeoning expectations
of foreign tourists who were quickly beginning to flood
into Marrakech - but also in a totally vernacular style.
Rather than charge excessively for an incongruous style of
hospitality, the Kasbah is reasonably priced to suit travellers
and trekkers on all budgets. Rather than hire staff trained
overseas, its employees are instead sourced solely from
the local Berber community. Rather than leave you with
full stomachs and empty words about the environment,
the management adds an additional 5% on your bill to be
put towards the development of the local area. [ed: Before
commenting, cynics would do well to investigate the
Kasbah's developments in the local mountain town of Imlil,
where the Kasbah and its owners have built two rubbish
incinerators and placed bins around the area to preserve
the environment. Just one example of many such efforts.]
The results? Authentic, responsible tourism at its best.
The Kasbah is a far cry from a cushy, cosmopolitan riyadh
– it is a mountain dwelling, built as a comfortable base for
trekking and expeditions into the breathtakingly beautiful
Toubkhal national park. That said, this is no Spartan cell.
The Kasbah offers rooms ranging from a standard bedroom
for two to two types of suite (Junior and Apartment) which
offer private terraces. The latter, of course, is the real luxury.
The main building is situated between a waterfall fed stream
– which the Imlil villagers still use for washing purposes
– below it and a series of mountain dwellings above, on
the crest of snow-tipped Jbel Toubkal. The views from the
Kasbah's terraces into the Atlas foothills are predictably
stunning.
Guests at the Kasbah are motivated to explore the local
area by participating in complimentary walks in and around
Imlil. For the more adventurous, traditional camel riding
and day and overnight treks are also offered – including a
daunting ascent to the 4167m pinnacle of Jbel Toubkal. For
more easy-going guests, the Kasbah also offers a hammam
(steam bath). In either case, however, sweaty and/or steamy,
visitors should be warned that while the bar is a welcome
drinking hole after a day's exertions, it is also alcohol free
in accordance with the Muslim beliefs and local Berber
traditions. Those who wish to partake are encouraged to
bring their own supplies from free-flowing Marrakech.
Once again, we find ourselves reflecting on the liminal
nature of this miraculous mountain retreat, caught in
between the traditional Berber environment and the often
rapacious tourist industry that continues to have such a
huge impact on Morocco. The Kasbah du Toubkhal has been
the recipient of so much praise over the years for perfecting
their services for the latter in (what has so far been) a largely
successful attempt to preserve the former. What makes the
Kasbah so special is its ability to exist and thrive in its own
way in between these two contrasting landscapes. With one
foot in each, the spectacular hotel seems not so much a world
apart as a world within the two. Through total appreciation
and understanding of each, the Kasbah du Toubkhal
encompasses ideas of indulgence – and then transcends
them through its attitude towards responsible tourism and
sustainability. It is a truly remarkable destination.
For more information, please visit www.kasbahtoubkal.com
Tel: +33 5 49 05 01 35
Beyond Indulgence
riad
el fenn
It is a tough ask to create a stand-out riyad in Marrakech
– the jewel in the crown of Moroccan opulence. That,
however, is the mission statement of El Fenn, the Vanessa
Branson and Howell James owned retreat hidden away in
the heart of the Medina quarter of the city – and one that is
fulfilled with consummate ease.
occasionally extreme heat of this sub-tropical
environment.
O
ne of the key differences between El Fenn
and any one of the many other luxury riyads
in this sybaritic city is that it is not, in fact, one
riyad, but seven. It is a boutique hotel made up
of several interconnected private residences –
instantly differentiating it from the enclosed oases
that flood the winding alleys of this North African
haven of cosmopolitan art and culture. Reflecting
on a hotel split up in such a way, one might logically
assume that the space loses its sense of intimacy.
Perhaps that is the case but, honestly, how often is a
hotel described as 'intimate' anything other than a
confined space made cramped by strangers?
The El Fenn philosophy is a welcome relief for those
who travel to escape unwanted social encounters.
By encompassing a larger area, the hotel ensures
that all its guests are given proper living space.
With a total of just 20 individually styled rooms
and suites, the El Fenn is a breath of fresh air in
a city where personal space is often at a premium.
Guest rooms are separated around different parts
of the buildings, which together form a large block
near the Bab El Ksour gate - situated a mere three
minutes away from Marrakech's main square, the
Djemaa el Fna. Traditional courtyard rooms form
the basis for any riyad and the same is true of El
Fenn – although, again, the amount of space is
palpable. Double rooms containing king size beds
dwarf the frequently cosy but compact alternatives
in competing accommodation. The colonnade
rooms are larger still. Facing outwards towards
the city, each has either an outside seating area
or an oversized bathroom to enjoy – handy in the
More than space, however, it is the unique finishing
touches which make the El Fenn a stand-out
destination. There is a lot to be said for traditional
Moorish and Berber hospitality – indeed, unlike other
cultures, the North African standards of comfort
have been highly praised and little-changed for
hundreds of years – but Marrakech is not a city that
stands solely on accepted ceremony. It is a location
that is in a constant state of evolution, one which
puts it amongst the most exciting travel hotspots in
the world today. As such, the urbane touches of the
owners are welcome in El Fenn: leather lined walls,
Venetian mirrors and Italian marble compete with
(and often complement) killim and tadelakt finishes
throughout. Marrakech Biennalle founder Vanessa
Branson's touches are particularly noteworthy –
each room is adorned with artwork from her private
collection.
The personalised flourishes are all the more evident
in the hotel's more spacious quarters. The junior
and imperial suites all feature separate sleeping
and seating areas and are designed to act more as
a casual reception for friends than a more clinical
'guest suite'. That welcoming atmosphere is
something that harks back to the original intentions
of the owners, who initially bought the grand old
site as a holiday home for themselves. Ever since,
that intention has infused the evolution of the space.
It remains something which epitomises the El Fenn
ethos: a dedication the idea that this is more than a
holiday spot: it is, at its core, a private residence – a
proverbial 'home away from home'.
There is no greater testament to this than the fact
that Vanessa Branson keeps a personal riyad in the
El Fenn named after her, This four bedroom nook,
replete with its own private courtyard and separate
roof terrace, a kitchen, dining room and a plunge
2 Derb Moulay Abdullah Ben
Hezzian, Bab El Ksour, Marrakesh
40000, Morocco
Phone:+212 5244-41210
E-mail: contact@el-fenn.com
pool, is the ideal place to entertain during family
or group trips and, priced at just €600/night,
it represents excellent value when set against
the higher price for four individual rooms. For
those travelling in smaller groups, the private
pool suits are a well-documented delight, with
the Sunday Times voting one of these rooms
one of the world's top 10 sexiest. By contrast,
the other features mezzanine accommodation
in the style of a New York loft conversion.
Key to the popularity of 'Riad Vanessa' is the
fact that those staying here have full access to
facilities at the rest of the hotel. The El Fenn spa
(and modern style hammam) is a smorgasbord
for the senses, with bathing, massages and
facials all on the menu in addition to the unique
aromatherapy that infuses the city as a whole.
The hotel also treats guests to three separate
swimming pools - two lined in carrara marble
plus an incredible rooftop plunge pool with
views overlooking the Koutoubia mosque –
the largest in the city. The rooftop lounge – a
staple of Morrocan architecture – is taken to
a quite magnificent level of luxury at the El
Fenn. Sitting in the Berber style open tent here
commands possibly the best views in the city
and, in turn, allows the eyes to wander further
afield, where the imposing Atlas mountains
hold sway. Naturally, the El Fenn staff are wellaccustomed to organising excursions for guests
and the diversity and splendour of the Moroccan
environment can all be easily reached from this
restful and sumptuously well-designed base.
Beyond Indulgence
Kensington Place
A quick click onto
Kensington’s Place’s
website is revelatory as
to the entire philosophy
of the hotel. Where some
destinations seek to dazzle
and entice with (what
they hope to be) tempting
rhetoric or (more often
than not) tired, trite
verbiage, this beautifully
arranged modern boutique
keeps it simple.
N
ever has the phrase ‘a picture is worth a
thousand words’ been used more aptly than in
this case: a bird’s eye view showing the location of
Kensington Palace tells us almost all we need to know.
Perfectly situated in a leafy district (Higgovale) set
away from central Cape Town, Kensington Place is:
Under 5km away from the cableway to take visitors
up to Table Mountain, the historic Victoria & Alfred
Waterfront complex, the Cape Town International
Convention Centre (CTICC) and the Camps Bay
and Clifton beach areas.
14km away from the Kirstesnbosch National
Botanical Garden, hailed as one of the greatest
botanical gardens in the world.20km away from the
Cape Town International Airport
Looking at the hotel itself, something else is
immediately apparent – even from the exterior.
Kensington Place is a small building. The word
‘exclusive’ is bandied about liberally in travel
reviews but a hotel comprising of just 8 suites
surely deserves that descriptor. It gives off an air of
complete tranquillity at a location surrounded by
foliage and backed by the nearby Table Mountain.
To summarise: while Kensington Place is ensconced
within what seems to be its own mini-oasis , it is
still just a relative stone’s throw away from the most
important sights and attractions in the area. It is an
urban retreat, hidden away, and minutes from the
city itself.
The hotel’s straightforward way of thinking is
carried through almost (see below) every aspect of
one’s stay. Kensington Place’s much-lauded kitchen
presents its guests with the assertion that good food
is created by using only the freshest locally sourced
ingredients, and follows that up with a matter-offact menu – both in terms of layout (simple black
text on a plain white background) and choice (Steak
& Chips, a Cajun Spiced Chicken Wrap and a
signature Caesar Salad all appear on the menu at
the time of writing).
The results, however, are quite spectacular. By
opting for a seasonal menu, the hotel ensures that
they make up in exquisite taste whatever they might
lose in frills and fancy. Simple, top quality and fresh
ingredients, cooked to perfection, can rival the most
elaborate meal any time. Especially, some might say,
when the former is a deliciously cooked breakfast,
which Kensington Place serves throughout the day
to accommodate late-risers on their own private
terraces – as well as those with less orthodox eating
habits, who can choose to eat al fresco anywhere
around the hotel.
We mentioned above that one aspect of Kensington
Place demonstrated a noticeable break in character
from the direct, straightforward approach that
epitomises the hotel overall. That, dear readers,
is in the décor. Where quality speaks for itself in
every other aspect of this beautiful bolt-hole, the
design practically jumps for joy. The outside pool is
stunningly lit up by carefully discreet but warming
lights in the evening, reminding us a little of a
Moroccan Riyadh transposed to a southern African
setting. Inside, beautiful, quirky artwork bedecks
the walls; delightfully individual pieces of furniture
abound. It’s modern, tasteful, comfortable and a
little bit special; a real treat for those tired of the
off-the shelf ‘luxury’ look.
A word to the wise acts as a final endorsement of
this simply stunning getaway: be sure to book early.
Kensington Place is regularly booked out 10-12
weeks in advance. Exclusive retreat? Undoubtedly,
yes. Secret? Not by any stretch of the imagination.
This is, patently, one of the best hotels in Cape Town:
it’s small wonder that people keep going back.
For more information, please visit:
www.kensingtonplace.co.za
Beyond Indulgence
Yenn Wong
Hotelier and Restaurateur
Obviously
design plays a hugely
important role throughout the hospitality industry, but it has clearly taken on
a special significance with all of your projects – from
hotels to restaurants. Why did you decide to make this
such a key aspect of your business plan and how does
this vary in different countries/locations?
through the JIA group – shortly after the emergence
of another Italian eaterie, Mercato, in the same area.
Obviously there are differences enough between the
two, particularly evident in the styles of head chefs
Enzo Carbone (Capo) and Jean-Georges Vongerichten
(Mercato), but what specifically attracted you to invest
in this sort of project?
I’ve always loved design and find that people are
universally becoming increasingly interested in
design as part of their normal lifestyle. Even the
budget traveller today is design-sensitive (It doesn’t
necessarily have to be expensive). Same with
restaurants - people are no longer satisfied with
just good food; they also want the right atmosphere
which is created through design, lighting, music
and attitude.
I don’t feel the opening of any one Italian restaurant
should prevent someone from opening another,
especially since the two concepts are different.
As you know, we’ve worked with Enzo Carbone
previously and found the Italian ‘Cookhouse’
concept of Capo particularly interesting. Also its
location was a plus, so we went for it.
Do you find it difficult to switch off while travelling?
Being directly involved in the hospitality industry must
mean that every holiday is more like a scouting trip/
corporate espionage!
While I can switch off when travelling if I wanted,
I actually love experiencing and discovering things.
Hotels and restaurants play a big part in the travel
experience and while my eyes are constantly open
for new food, drinks, design and styles, it is actually
a pleasure and therefore also relaxing.
Are you finished with opening new hotels for now? You
seem to have made a clear move away from that side of
your business and more towards the restaurant industry.
I have not completely moved away from hotels and
am in fact currently working on a new hotel project
in Hong Kong, details of which cannot be released
just yet. But yes, our focus has been on restaurants
lately - I prefer to work organically on my business
growth based on the best opportunities that
present themselves, rather than on a firm and fixed
long term plan.
We were intrigued by the decision to open Capo
on the Bund – the Italian restaurant you co-own
The perceptions of top level service differ vastly
depending on whether one’s values are European
or Chinese. Is that a fair assessment, would you say?
If so, how do you rationalise the two in a European
restaurant in China?
While the two cultures may be different, I think
the basics of good service in a restaurant are fairly
similar – it’s about consistent good food, friendly,
courteous yet non-intrusive service and of course
attention to detail. We have staff who are familiar
with both cultures and recognize what both, our
Western and Chinese clients expect, so they are
able to handle accordingly.
Have you targeted any other emerging areas in
Shanghai or further afield that you would like to target
for developmental projects?
Definitely. Over the years we have accumulated
very good experience on how to operate in China
and we see this as very valuable experience. China
is a very important market for our business and we
will always seek opportunities there if one comes
up!
You seem to have a preference for opening Italian
restaurants (Capo at Rockbund, Issimo at JIA
Shanghai)! Is there any particular reason being that?
Does Italian cuisine or culture represent something in
particular that you feel is in demand/is lacking in the
contemporary Chinese restaurant scene?
In Shanghai we focused on Italian cuisine as we
were working closely previously with Salvatore
Cuomo and then with Enzo Carbone. I don’t have
a particular preference for just Italian restaurants,
although it is a cuisine which other cultures do
easily accept. As you know in Hong Kong our
collection of restaurants include Italian, Isaan
Thai, Chinese, modern tapas, a jamón & sherry
bar and we will soon be opening Aberdeen Street
Social which will feature modern British cuisine.
Are there any projects coming up in the near future that
you are particularly excited about? We’ve read that the
Aberdeen Street Social - the so-called ‘farm-to-table’
restaurant you are starting with chef Jason Atherton in
Hong Kong’s Central area -is due to open in May this
year – is that still the case? Can you tell us any more
about it?
Yes we will be opening Aberdeen Street Social
in mid May at PMQ, Hong Kong’s new design
and cultural landmark in Central. This is my
third collaboration with Michelin star Chef Jason
Atherton. It is a two storied restaurant with a very
‘social’ ambience, serving modern British cuisine.
There is a chic restaurant on the upper floor and
casual dining, bar and a dessert/bakery retail outlet
on the ground floor. Both floors have outdoor
patios and a garden frontage. Interiors are by
Shanghai-based Neri & Hu who, as you know,
also designed Capo. I would like to explain that
our focus is not farm-to-table, but more on using
the freshest and best ingredients available, with a
sensitivity to sustainability.
What is your personal definition of indulgence – in a
word, phrase or sentence?
To me, indulgence is being able to do what you
want, how you want, whenever you want it.
Beyond Indulgence
TUGU BALI
Traditional Balinese
Hinduism has long espoused
the belief in reincarnation.
It is, perhaps, small wonder
that the local people
have never taken on the
conviction of a heavenly
afterlife given that, to many,
their island represents
the closest one can get to
paradise on Earth.
O
ften described as the most
romantic location on the tiny
Indonesian retreat, Hotel Tugu Bali
is nestled between whispering rice
fields and the instantly recognisable
Batu Bolong Temple on the pristine,
sun-kissed Canggu beach. Built upon
a passion for the romantic beauty
of the art, history and culture of
Bali (specifically) and Indonesia (in
general), it is not stretching a point to
say that this is one of those sights that
everyone should see before they die.
Even from the outside, the Tugu Bali
has the feel of somewhere that has
been touched by magic. The effect is
partly due to the vast and magnificent
collection of priceless Indonesian
antiques and artworks that adorn the
hotel, but there is something more
than sheer materialism (stunning
though it is) going on here. Where
the enjoyment of pure tropical luxury
ends, an other-worldly ambience takes
over. It is, quite simply, an intoxicating
combination.
Moving inside is almost a role
reversal. Having been drawn in to the
structure and interior of the hotel from
the outside, one's eyes are momentarily
distracted to the stunning views of the
surrounding Indian Ocean from the
Bale Agung lobby. The enchantment
doesn't last for long, though, as the
lobby itself showcases an exclusive
collection of historic Balinese artworks
and cultural artifacts, while a glance
towards the guest's accommodation
reveals the extent of Hotel Tugu's split
identity: while the sea holds sway on
one side of the resort, the other is
awash with a world of lush tropical
gardens and wild lotus ponds. Hiding
in their midst lie 21 distinct, discreet
villas and suites.
The magical theme continues into
the accommodation, starting with the
Puri Le Mayeur Villa, which occupies
an area of 200m2 and ‘floats’ above its
own 700m2 natural lotus pond. Named
after and inspired by the love story of
Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur de Merprès,
a famous Belgian painter who moved
to the island in 1932, and Ni Polok, a
renowned Legong dance, the villa
showcases original carved furniture by
the artist. More obviously, it also hosts
a private plunge pool, an open-air
lotus pond dining pavilion, a beautiful
Beyond Indulgence
outdoor bath, and a verandah to witness the sun
setting against the backdrop of breaking waves.
Entering the Walter Spies Pavilion, the other
signature suite of the Hotel Tugu, one finds
oneself transported to the art deco era of Java
in the early 20th century. The eponymously
named suite is dedicated to the German poet
and artist who made Java and Bali his home
in the 1920s. The suite incorporates several
original Dutch colonial architectural elements,
including the entrance gate, stained-glass
windows, and a beautiful headboard made of
the artist’s original garden gate. Like the Puri
Le Mayeur, the Walter Spies Pavilion also has its
own private plunge pool and a private outdoor
dining pavilion – plus its own garden and a
unique outdoor sunken bath.
Beyond the signature villas, the Dedari and
Rejang are far from generic alternatives. Each is
uniquely arranged and decorated, each features
its own little treasures and exotic luxuries, such
as silver-decked baths crafted by local artisans,
in-room spa areas and – simple but delightful
- oversized beds that are scattered with fresh
petals at night. It is also worth noting that all
the Rejang Suites have a view to the sunset over
the Indian ocean.
If the setting, accommodation and views are
not enough to relax you, the Tugu Bali has also
won widespread acclaim for its traditional Spa.
Focusing primarily on traditional Indonesian
treatments – both physical and spiritual – options
range from the hotel's Waroeng Djamoe (herbal
healing class) to the Gubug Ngelamun LehaLeha (a head to toe pampering consisting of a
spice scrub, milk bath and Javanese massage)
and various other massages, water and mantra/
meditiation-based treatments to set one's body
and spirit at rest. The sheer variety of treatments
on offer means that the Tugu's traditional spa
has something for everyone.
Dining at the Tugu Bali is also a bespoke
experience. Guests are invited to choose their
preferred part of the hotel to dine. Private
Beyond Indulgence
candlelit tables are arranged, with
the minimum of fuss, in virtually
any section of the hotel – be that in
the gardens; in a private hut floating
above the lotus pond or even tucked
away on a discreet spot on the beach.
The dining service itself is also a
personalised experience. In addition
to the venue, the cuisine, rituals,
costumes, tableware... everything is
mutable depending on one's whim or
– more appropriately, on a particular
theme that the guest can choose
based on the staff's recommendation.
A dinner for two, then, can range
from a quiet repast under the stars,
to a parade by 12 waiters, to an army
of 30 people bedecked in 14th century
Indonesian style, with the latter
recalling the local folk tales that date
back hundreds of years.
A particular favourite amongst
regular patrons is to dine in what is
often said to be the most beautiful
dining room in the country - the
300-year-old Bale Sutra temple,
housed in a spectacular red room and
lit with a sea of red candles. Or, to
experience the grand, elegant dining
of the royal Balinese kings in the past,
opt for the 'Bale Puputan', the Balinese
19th century royal dining room of the
kings, dedicated to Balinese heroes.
HOTEL TUGU BALI Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach, Bali-Indonesia
Tel. +62 361 4731 701 • +62 8786 1838 680 • +62 8180 5307 164
bali@tuguhotels.com / www.tuguhotels.com
Conversely, for another memorable
cultural evening, try the Waroeng
Tugu, a more humble, but equally
atmospheric, open-air, village kitchen
dinner. Based on 15th century customs,
the room (lit only by oil lamps) plays
host to Iboe (Mother) Soelastri, who
is now over 60 years old but who has
- we're told – been blessed with her
grandmother’s cooking talent ever
since she was four. Iboe invites guests
to join her in picking up ingredients
from the local market before her
cooking classes. Cooking in front of
guests in the terracotta, wood-fire
kitchen, Iboe also teaches her skills
as a class as she goes about her work.
After tasting the results, it's plain to
see that Iboe's grandmother must
have been one hell of a chef.
Although the bespoke nature
of dining at the Tugu Bali is to be
admired, it could be considered
secondary to its greatest appeal – that
of its diversity of culinary styles. The
hotel offers and incorporates both
Balinese and Javanese cuisine into its
dining experiences, and it is for this
reason (in addition to the undeniable
quality of the food itself) that the
Tugu resorts are widely held up as the
reference point for Indonesian food
on the island. Just ask the string of
presidents and ministers of Indonesia
who can be spotted indulging by those
inquisitive or eagle-eyed enough to
peer beyond their own slice of islandheaven.
Beyond Indulgence
At Shreyas Retreat in Bangalore, India, however,
balance has been restored. Yes, this is a 5 star
relaxation retreat but, noticeably, the focus here
is very different. The Shreyas way of thinking is
shaped by the primary tenet of so many Indian
philosophies: that introspection, self-discovery
and unfettered self-determination hold the key
to a higher quality of life. It is with that in mind
that this luxury retreat operates more like an
ashram than a getaway resort. The aim is to offer
guests a platform for self-discovery and fulfilment
through a holistic approach to balanced living and
tranquillity.
shreyas retreat
Books organised around a given theme lead one to
question the full meaning and essence of that theme.
Almost inevitably, that will change over time depending
on changing cultural attitudes, technological innovations
and societies’ changing expectations – amongst
other factors. In this case, the meaning of the word
‘Indulgence’ has changed very subtly but nonetheless
discernibly over the years.
W
here, originally (and still today,
technically), to indulge means
to “allow oneself to take pleasure in”; it
now seems that the emphasis has shifted
somewhat from a personal agreement to
one that puts the responsibility on others’
shoulders. The feeling nowadays is almost
that one somehow deserves to be indulged,
that pampering is an expectation that
should be placed at the doorstep of others,
and that we as individuals either do not
have the means to indulge ourselves or are
simply too jaded to do so.
The idea is put firmly into practice at Shreyas
with a routine of daily yoga, meditation sessions,
chanting classes, a strict vegetarian and no-alcohol
policy and community service. The benefit of
this approach is to allow guests true indulgence,
in the original sense of the word. The ability to
take time away from the stresses of our everyday
lives and truly take pleasure is fulfilled in Shreyas’
idyllic setting in the midst of 25 acres of stunning
greenlands.
Every aspect of the resort is dedicated to this
purpose:
Yoga Sessions - to rejuvenate and cleanse the
body.
Meditation sessions and other yogic practices to calm the mind.
Spa treatments (Ayurvedic and others) - to
rejuvenate the body and remove toxins.
Nourishing, organic vegetarian food - to detoxify
and heal the body.
An environment and accommodations which
allow guests to benefit from the positive energy
of nature.
Community service to experience the joy of
giving. Discussions on yoga philosophy and
scriptures - to stimulate the mind.
Yoga at Shreyas is, as you might expect, about
much more than the traditional physical postures.
The idea here is to catalyse one’s thinking/living
philosophy through harmonization with the
timeless wisdom enshrined within certain aspects
of the Indian philosophical tradition. Apart
from the Yogasana classes, guests can participate
in sessions on Pranayama (understanding and
regulating one’s breath), Pratyahara (withdrawal
/ internalization of sensory inputs), Dharana
(concentration), Dhyana (meditation) processes
drawn from the Patanjali Yoga Sutra. Ashtanga and
Hatha Yoga are practised at Shreyas, and sessions
are customised for guests to suit their level of
experience, as well as any physical ailments they
may have.
Another elegant twist in the tale of Shreyas Retreat
is its corresponding emphasis on providing
guests with a totally luxurious setting. For the
holistic approach to work, the ashram activities
and philosophies for guests are maintained in
combination with an utterly relaxing environment.
Where a traditional 5 star retreat might offer just
the latter, or an ashram would conversely offer just
the former, Shreyas insists that the two operating
together, in tandem, is what is required for total
indulgence. It is an entrancing proposal: the
perfect setting to relax and unwind and the perfect
regimen to fully focus on and to take pleasure in
what is truly important to you as an individual.
Perhaps the defining policy at Shreyas can be
encapsulated in the ancient Sanskrit verse “Athithi
devo bhava”- ‘the guest is [served as] God’. The
outstanding level of personal service and the
attention to detail for guests during their stay here
is just a part of that notion, however. The greater
part, one might argue, is the fact that the Shreyas
Retreat offers guests the ultimate power to indulge
themselves. By providing both the setting for a
totally relaxing experience and the tools for their
guests to truly understand and appreciate the
positive aspects of their lives, Shreyas goes beyond
the contemporary reinterpretation of indulgence.
By transcending luxury to offer balance, they ensure
that an escape to this enchanting environment can
be enjoyed by all.
Santoshima Farm, Gollahalli Gate, Nelamangala,
Bangalore 562123, India
Telephone: +91 99 16 110422
E-mail: reservations@shreyasretreat.com
Beyond Indulgence
Maya
M
aya is the product of Hong Kong interior designer Niki
Fairchild’s love affair with Sri Lanka. Situated in the old
Ceylon village of Aranwella, the villa, which was home to the
ruling family of the village, is a gem in the Tangalle area. It
stands out impressively against a backdrop of other Dutch and
British colonial-influenced architecture and magnificent oldworld grandeur. For, where the surrounding retreats are one
or the other, Maya plays host to a fusion of both traditional Sri
Lankan heritage and contemporary design.
Minimalist, elegant, stylish and refined, Maya is ensconced
in its own private estate and brims with sedate tranquility.
Niki Fairchild, together with distinguished architect Pradeep
Kodikara, has transformed the manor house into a five suite
residence of haunting beauty. Period features meet modern
design resulting in sky-high ceilings, vast open views, polished
edges and absolute comfort.
A small step out of your personal domain plunges you into the
L-shaped indigo swimming pool, the center of Maya. The pool
curves through the property and its soft, shimmering reflection
offers an enchanting effect. Discreet, warm lights illuminate
the property throughout, creating a raw energy between shelter
and nature. An almost supernatural, ethereal glow floods this
centenarian residence. This is the place to let yourself be
seduced by solitude.All of the spacious rooms at Maya Tangalle
Perched on the southern coast
of Sri Lanka lies Tangalle, a
languorous town dotted with
18th century Dutch villas; a
decadent remnant of its colonial
past. Nestled on the coast, the
shimmering sand frames the tepid
waters of the Laccadive sea and the
Bay of Bengal. Just 15 minutes away,
in the rural village of Aranwella,
you will find Maya, a lovingly
restored 19th Century Walauwa
(a Sri Lankan manor house) set
amidst lush, tropical gardens,
curious wildlife and encompassed
by soft, billowing paddy fields.
have kept their original 25-foot high ceilings - as well as the
intricate ornate lattice-work above the doors, which allows cool
breezes to enter one’s living quarters. The sleek design of the
bathrooms feature rain showers that pour onto the chocolate
coloured terrazzo or smooth concrete floors.
The Thekka suite, found in the original old house (or ‘walauwa’),
overlooks the sea of rice paddies that extends out beyond the
villa and creates a mesmerizing, breezy backdrop to the cool
chambers. Custom designed teak carved four-poster beds in
both the Thekka and Khumbuk suites lavishly welcome you to
an oasis of calm, with striking brass reading lights completing
the effect.
The Amber and Ehela suites are situated in the New Wing. Each
come with their own private courtyards and al fresco seating
areas. Tasteful simplicity champions the design of the rooms
with furnishings favouring quality over quantity. The Kohomba
suite has the added luxury of a separate, private garden.
Antiques adorn the rooms for the perfect balance between
old and new: intricate and simple. In fact, it is the balance of
flavours at Maya that make it so enchanting – something that
extends to the gastronomy as well as to the décor.
Maya’s chefs have pioneered and perfected their signature
dishes: a fusion of Sri Lankan and Continental. Typical
dishes are the Lobster & Avocado, Lettuce and Coriander
or Watermelon & Feta Cheese salads; beefsteak medallions
with red wine sauce and mustard mash; or homemade
ravioli with fresh crab and dill and basil pesto – all of
which marry the spicy punches of conventional Sri Lankan
cuisine with Maya’s unique method of incorporating the
tantalizing juices of fresh, local produce. Those with a
sweet tooth will also enjoy the chili cinnamon chocolate
pudding, along with a range of home made cocktails, such
as the zesty ginger kick.
The unobtrusive style of service at the Maya does
not detract from its commitment to what can best be
described as the total pampering of its guests. Whether
you are looking to arrange a tuk-tuk to take you to the untouched
emerald sands of Tangalle Beach or prefer to opt for an in-room
massage, the unrivaled service will indulge you in any whim, no
matter how extravagant.
Five star hotels are easy to find. It is the combination of service,
food and charm that differentiates the chocolate-box also-rans
with hospitality of true class. At Maya, each of one’s senses are
caressed into a feeling of pure bliss. It’s hard not to think that
they’ve got it absolutely right.
Old House, Temple Road, Aranwella,
Belliata, Sri-Lanka.
Tel:- +94 (0) 47 567 9025 / 6
Email: mayatangalle@gmail.com
Beyond Indulgence
Residence on
the Rocks
Imagine living in your own private hotel. That is the reality for the guests of
Karl Ammann's secluded luxury villa Residence on the Rocks.
S
uch is the power of that statement that this writer is almost
tempted to end the review here and now. The Seychelles
– the tropical haven that has come to embody the term ‘island
paradise’ like nowhere else – plays host to the Residence, a
private accommodation that is fully serviced by the nearby
Banyan Tree Hotel and its own full time caretakers (a couple
from Sri Lanka), with the latter offering inclusive butlering,
housekeeping, gardening and pool cleaning services from
their on-site staff quarters . It is, without exaggerating, the
perfect scenario for most holiday-makers: the independence
and tranquillity of a private villa combined with the full scale
service offered by a top quality hotel.
Hidden away from the main hotel to such a degree that it
appears shrouded in stunningly mysterious green jungle from
afar, the Residence is actually perched just 100 yards (as the
crow flies) up a hill from the nearest Banyan Tree villa. The
Creole designed buildings comprise a main house, set over two
storeys with two large bedrooms, and two separate guesthouses
(with one king bedroom in each) positioned some thirty yards
off a stunning central pool. The latter – an infinity pool - is built
up on concrete to overlook the drop down the hill through the
shading branches of a swathe of palm trees. The property has
been designed in such a way, however, that as well as their
immediate surroundings on the hill, guests can also marvel at
a heartbreakingly beautiful view of two of the country’s most
highly prized beaches - Intendance Bay and Takamaka.
One of the overriding differences between hotel and residential
accommodation can be in the character of the space itself. In
the case of Residence on the Rocks, this could hardly be more
pronounced. Every aspect of this place reveals the love with
which it was crafted. From the walls which were painstakingly
For more information, please visit
www.residenceontherocks.com
Email: karl@karlammann.ch
built around idiosyncratic and individually sized
custom Indian Haveli doors (similar to French
doors in shape and application) to the recycled
Burmese teak parquet throughout to the colonial
metal windows, imported from Kenya – everything
at the Residence screams esoteric, unique
character put together by someone with a highly
refined personal taste. Intriguingly, the personal
touch that gives this place such a magical feel has
a fantastically down to earth explanation: owner
Karl Amman has his primary, personal residence
on the slopes of Mount Kenya. In the course of his
travels, he found himself bringing back collector’s
items with such regularity that his wife eventually
imposed a rule that for every new item he brought
back to Kenya, two other items would have to be
sent away. Unable to simply abandon his horde of
treasures, Karl moved the most appropriate pieces
to the Residence on the Rocks.
The objective, we are told, was to recreate the
colonial splendour of the 1920s and 30s. The result
is something far, far more than that.
Remarkably for a place which seems to have
been built purely for its aesthetic qualities (not
ignoring all levels of creature comforts expected
in such a setting), the Residence on the Rocks
is also praiseworthy for its commitment to the
environment. The immediate surroundings were
not changed or damaged in the construction of the
property.The plot was chosen so as to avoid levelling
ground or cutting down large trees. Any large
rocks that featured on the land have, incredibly,
been incorporated into the overall structure of
the property. Rain water is collected on the roof
before being filtered for use by an amazingly
sophisticated three filter system (including an
infrared one). Only if the 50,000 gallon rain water
tank runs out will the system switch to the Banyan
Tree hotel’s designated water supplies. In short,
the overall design incorporates maximum energy
efficiency measures without impacting in any way
on the expected comfort level.
Guest comfort is taken to almost impossible
levels at the Residence on the Rocks. While the
emphasis on privacy and independence is one
of the main draws to this place, it is hard not to
resist the temptation to take full advantage of the
various services offered by the owner and the
Banyan Tree management service. For starters,
the on-site caretakers are on hand to take care of
any matters at the Residence every day. Pick up
requests for guests to be taken to the main hotel’s
facilities – gym, tennis court, bar, world famous
spa etc - by electromobile are dealt with almost
instantaneously. Alternatively, guests have the
option to rent their own vehicle for the ultimate
flexibility during their stay. Standard services
such as room service, housekeeping and general
maintenance are handled with aplomb, and the
addition of the on-hand caretaking couple ensures
that the hospitality and level of service offered by
the Residence far exceeds that offered by all but
the most attentive of establishments.
Add all this to the spectacular natural beauty
of the Seychelles – particularly poignant in the
immediate area surrounding the Residence and
the result, unmistakeably, is the complete package.
Beyond Indulgence
Split Apple
RETREAT
L
ee Nelson has put together a sanctuary
overlooking Abel Tasman. There are priceless
Japanese and other Asian artifacts, sculptures,
paintings. Beautiful rooms, lovely bathrooms and a
high-tech supreme audio-visual room with the latest
sports feeds.
Lee Nelson’s Masterpiece
If a masterpiece is a manmade work with nothing
out of place, a composition
pleasing on a number
of levels from instant
gratification to life-changing
thoughts, something you can
return to time after time and
discover something fresh,
new, (which was there all
along), then without doubt
Split Apple Retreat is a
masterpiece.
And the food.....where do I start. Lee's focus
is on wellness - taking people and making them
feel better. He has applied considerable medical
knowledge (from his career as a doctor) to the
selection of ingredients which enhance our lives. His
wife, Pen, then marries these together in an Asian/
Mediterranean blend which will keep the most
gourmand of us gourmets guessing, second guessing
and confused. When I asked (bearing in mind my
own unreconstructed diet) if pasta was healthy, I
was told 'no', but there's a squash you can plant and
bake which then produces a spaghetti which is very
healthy. I walked away with some squash seeds and
my mind in a whirl.
An important point - I was only there for 19 hours,
but in those 19 hours I toured the house, walked
on two beaches, had a soak in a hot pool, drank
innumerable cups of excellent exotic tea (this one's
from hundred year old plants in the highlands of
Beyond Indulgence
China....), a beautifully balanced aged Cuban rum,
the same with a local pinot noir, meditated for half
an hour in the morning, examined the vegetable and
herb gardens and ate two lovely meals. And ended
up feeling healthier, more relaxed and less bloated
than I normally do!
Lee has a client who comes for months at a time
saying the place is great for his mind and body so
he bases himself here and works. I can understand
that. If I was based there, I think I would be much
healthier and more focused.
And we haven't even talked about the
surroundings - golden sand beaches, and the Abel
Tasman accessible with a private yacht.
For anyone with an interest in food and wellbeing
or just interested in seeing if the place affects them
at all before going back to their bad habits - this is
highly, highly recommended.
Words by Jean Michel Jefferson, Ahipara
Split Apple
195 Tokongawa Drive,
RD2 Motueka, Abel Tasman 7197
New Zealand
Tel: +643 527 8377 / Fax: +643 527 8644
Email: info@splitapple.com
Beyond Indulgence
I
f you are reading this, the chances are that you are
a seasoned traveller. Tales of sun-kissed beaches
and clear ocean waters won't be enough to turn your
head. Earnest affirmations of 'magical retreats' will
not be enough to dispel your ennui. Let's be honest
– for the majority of us, that is barely enough to get
us out of bed.
The fact is, the world is getting smaller. It has become
more and more difficult to get inspired by the
prospect of an indulgent vacation, a secluded spot in
the sand or spa. Western society at large is bombarded
with images, advertisements, endorsements...so much
so that the promise of a week of 'sun, sea and sand'
is more likely to engender a laconic Evgeny Onegin
style laze of the hand than any genuine excitement.
It is rare, nowadays, for a resort to buck that trend and
make us really sit up and take notice. Song Saa, the
twin-island private retreat positioned in Cambodia’s
untouched Koh Rong Archipelago, does precisely
that. There is something apt about the way their
website loads in such a way as to cover the snapshots
of the location with text – as if to tell you that there is
something missing from the picture, a magic that does
not translate from screen to sight. It is something
that can only be felt be visiting this special place: an
incredibly undisturbed paradise the likes of which
many of us felt no longer existed.
SONGSAA
Some destinations require the creation of a
narrative to put their charms into context.
Others write their own story.
Comparisons with Danny Boyle's seminal film The
Beach (well, the first part of it, at least) may seem
trite but should be forgiven. First of all, the resort
is in a similar part of the world, one famed for its
outstandingly preserved natural beauty. Secondly, it
is very much a similar story in terms of starting plot
lines. The owners of Song Saa have cornered a piece
of South-East Asian Aracadia and made it their own.
Welcome to a fragment of luscious green land perfectly
placed, like an emerald jewel, on a bed of brilliant
blue. It is the sort of place that most of us dreamed
about long before the days of over-advertising and
the internet – the sort of landscape that is so deeply
embedded into our consciousness that no sales pitch
is needed to evoke the joyful sensation that arises
from its contemplation. It is the pure poetry of a
tropical island, the epitome of the ultimate escape.
The true beauty of Song Saa, however, goes below the
surface (in more ways than one). The owners, husband
and wife partnership Rory and Melita Hunter, are
trailblazers for a new wave of sustainable luxury
resorts that have stolen the show at the forefront
of 21st century travel. They may have bought the
land but, unlike the island of The Beach, this is no
uncharted secret, reserved only for perennial tourists.
Instead, Rory and Meilita have committed to setting a
standard of sustainability which will hopefully come
to define Cambodia and the still-pristine parts of
South East Asia generally.
The first thing that is notable is the lack of major
architectural interventions on the islands. The few
buildings that exist here are made from locally
sourced materials and, externally at least, built
according to local styles and conventions.The villas,
with their pitched thatched roofs and finishings
made from recycled timber and driftwood, are
built on either side of the larger environment,
allowing the rainforest trees that pervade the
centre to remain undisturbed. Inside, of course,
it is a different story altogether – supreme luxury
finds harmony with conscientious development.
Think incredible views, private infinity pools and
beaches, oversized baths and giant, comfortable
beds. As venerable architectural journal AD once
described it, this is a model of“low-impact design
meets five-star luxury”.
Equally impressive is Song Saa's dedication to
marine conservation. In an area where commercial
fishing ventures are under constant pressure and
scrutiny to keep up to code with sustainability
standards, ongoing efforts for underwater
welfare are absolutely crucial. With that in mind,
the Hunters made the decision early in their
Cambodian adventure to establish a marine
reserve between the twin islands of Koh Ouen and
Koh Bong that make up the resort (connected by
a footbridge). The aim is to safeguard the islands’
reefs and marine life including turtles, seahorses
and exotic species of tropical fish.
The resort's commitment to building a sustainable
future for Cambodia is further reinforced by
the Hunters' development of the Song Saa
Foundation. The Foundation is a not-for-profit
enterprise with current activities as far reaching as
the creation of a waste management service in the
Archipelago’s largest settlement (Prek Svay) and
the founding of an education centre where experts
and residents share views on conservation and
sustainable livelihood practices. Its goals extend
to the creation of a mobile education centre
(the 'Boat of Hope') to support and supplement
education on sustainable practices in the area,
as well as the improvement of health care for
communities that are isolated from mainstream
medical infrastructure.
It is that ongoing commitment to social and
environmental responsibility that sets Song
Saa apart from the rest. It shows that while the
resort lives up to the standards associated with
exotic dreams, it is also striving to ensure that
the methods taken to maintain that standard of
excellence does not degenerate the area into a
nightmare environment in years to come. Guests
can visit with an easy heart and clear conscience,
something that is reflected back at them in the
philosophy of the resort overall.
Known as “metta bhavana”, Song Saa's stated
inspiration is the Buddhist tradition of loving
kindness for all living things. It is a state of mind
that comes through best in their conservation
efforts but also applies to their approach to guests.
The 'Always Included' rate structure encourages
guests to participate in all walks of life on the
island – from spa experiences to snorkelling in
the marine reserve and surrounding area, and
from nature spotting trails to local Khmer cultural
exchanges. The diversity of activities on offer at
Song Saa is staggering and acts as a testament
to the huge efforts the owners have made to
really make a difference in this area. The variety
of different opportunities is something that could
only be made possible by an ownership structure
which respects and appreciates the surrounding
area.
Song Saa isn't a ground-breaking type of
destination. It is the sort of place that has long
existed in our imaginations, one that at one stage
was in severe risk of disappearing altogether from
reality. What is game-changing is the resort's
affinity with the local community and wider area,
something that enhances and enriches visitors'
experience a hundred fold in comparison to some
traditional hotels that have struggled to adapt to the
concerns of a new breed of responsible travellers.
Song Saa's genuine concern for the continued
growth and lasting protection of this unique
location is just as inspiring as the phenomenal
beauty that currently exists in this quintessential
'tropical paradise'.
Krong Preah Sihanouk,
Cambodia
Phone:+855 23 686 0360
Email: reservations@songsaa.com
Beyond Indulgence
RAFAEL SERRANO
Developer and Investor
Admiralty Arch,
commissioned
by Edward VII in
memory of his mother, Queen Victoria, and designed by Sir Aston
Webb, is an architectural feat and one of the most iconic buildings
in London.
It is the gateway between Buckingham Palace and Trafalgar Square,
but few of those driving through the arch come to appreciate its
harmony and elegance for the simple reason that they see very little
of it. Londoners also take it for granted to the extent that they simply
drive through without giving it further thought.
This is all set to change within the next two years and the man who
has taken on the challenge is financier-turned-developer Rafael
Serrano.
When the UK coalition government resolved to introduce more
efficiency in the handling of public buildings, a new Government
Property Unit was created for the purpose of selling off/leasing
£2.5bn of assets, one of which was Admiralty Arch.
Serrano produced no less than a 3 volume presentation (one of which
was bound as a proper book investment case study publication) to
make a case for his vision of restoring the building and turning it into
a landmark hotel, with a members’ club and restaurants on different
levels. The book is full of historical references, archival photographs
and architectural drawings, demonstrating in-depth knowledge and
sensitivity second to none.
One would expect the man who won the much contested bidding
for the Arch to have a heightened attention to detail. Serrano goes
far, far beyond that – his knowledge of the architecture of historical
buildings in general, and of this building’s history in particular - is
nothing short of astounding.
RS: Admiralty Arch is an asset with a lot of history. I felt privileged
to participate in the bidding but didn’t dare hope to win. The
strategy of our bid was to avoid presenting the same run of the mill
documentation as everyone else. Rather, we focused on the historical
importance of the building and researched archives to come up with
every possible original drawing and photograph we could find. We
hired designers to choose the colours and fonts of our presentation
booklet.
The original drawings show trees on the side of the arch that were
never planted – we intend to do this and restore the building in
keeping with the original concept – an opening towards, and an
extension of Buckingham Palace.
We produced a video of how the building will look once restored and
why we would be better than the other bidders. We explained how
the new hotel will look within London and how it would compete
against other iconic hotels in the capital.
Finally, we presented our record of accountability and track record.
We assembled a team that has sterling experience and track record:
Blair Associates Architecture, who have several landmark hotels in
London to their credit and Sir Robert McAlpine, as well as lighting,
design and security experts. We demonstrated we are able to put a
lot of effort in the restoration of public spaces, in conservation and
sustainability.
I have learned two things from my investment banking days:
1. The importance of team work. When JP Morgan was first founded
they attracted the best talent available. By creating a team like this
you achieve more.
2. The importance of execution.
There were a lot of people who bid more money for this project.
They had the means and the budget.
What they didn’t have was the combination of great team work,
experience and execution capabilities.
I am well aware of the major responsibility that comes with winning
the bid; that the legacy and the beauty of the building’s original
design need to be preserved. We also have an obligation to work
with everyone to preserve the historical connection and context of
public buildings.
We will start construction before Christmas 2013 and anticipate
completing the project within 2/2.5 years.
BB: So this will be the best London hotel?
RS: I don’t really want to give it a label like that – let’s say I like to
think of it as something London should be proud of.
In terms of location, it cannot get better than this. Very few roads
come to the Arch and no service cars or trucks can drive through
it. It is in the middle or everything – Buckingham Palace, the Royal
Opera, the National Gallery, all the theatres and of course, the Royal
parks.
The red concrete road outside is very rare and walking towards the
palace is like walking down the proverbial red carpet.
Beyond Indulgence
I can see myself staying here as a guest in the years
to come.
We’ve been approached to document the
restoration of the building on film and in a book.
I would like to do that but not as a commercial
project.
Admiralty Arch represents a combination of power,
politics, economics, military history and various
curiosities – a book should reflect that. Admiralty
Arch was commissioned by King Edward VII and
the ‘grateful citizens’ of Britain and its Empire to
commemorate Queen Victoria. It was constructed
over a century ago when London was at the heart
of the largest, richest and most powerful empire
the world has even seen.
It is not common knowledge, for example, that
Winston Churchill worked here, as did the author
Ian Fleming for a few years. Lady Thatcher kept
her own notes and archives at the Arch.
This should not be just about the restoration of the
building, it should go beyond that. I would like to
do a book on the Arch itself and the history of it,
not just a pretty coffee table ornament.
London has produced an amalgamation of clever,
talented people; wonderful art; culture; wealth.
I hope we can contribute a little to that with the
creation of the hotel and its own members’ club.
On the club
RS The genius of Sir Aston Webb was to not
just create an extremely beautiful building from
the outside but also an extremely efficient one
from the inside. Discovering it in its entirety has
impressed even people who have worked here
but were not allowed access to some parts of it
(employees only had clearance for the particular
wing, floor or even just room they worked in).
So not only has the building been closed to the
public, but also to those who worked there.
The North wing was originally designed as
residential quarters. In the past, London architects
built very high ceilings on ground floors to evoke a
sense of grandeur and comfort.
The lower ground and basement floors of the Arch
have 4 m ceilings and, given that we have enough
rooms for the hotel and restaurants, we thought
we’d create a members’ club there.
I am a huge fan of London’s clubs and belong to
many. I like the traditional gentlemen’s clubs, but I
also go to the new social/dining clubs, such as the
Dover Street Arts Club, Hertford Street and Lulu’s.
I like the Travellers and the Reform clubs. Not only
are both buildings architecturally interesting, they
were designed by the very same architect, Charles
Barry, who restored the House of Parliament after
the great fire of 1834.
At that time public buildings were built in two
distinct styles: either neo-gothic or neo-classical.
The House of Parliament was built in the former,
while the Travellers and the Reform were built in
the latter style.
I have always had a keen interest in history and
love architecture, in particular Italian architecture.
I envisage the club as being much more than just
a social hub – I hope it will attract creative people:
builders, influencers, originators of art, culture,
power…
The club should reflect the importance of the
building and its location and develop as a hub of
influence.
Part of our strategy is to decorate it as a
quintessentially British club, emphasising the
relationship we have with the Royal Navy.
The tour of the building
B Beyond felt singularly privileged to be given
the tour of Admiralty Arch, pre-restoration,
with Rafael Serrano himself as, quite probably,
the most knowledgeable guide alive. We were
keenly aware that we were seeing the building in
a way that few people have and most importantly,
in a way it will never be seen again. Pending
restoration… Being given a new lease of life
and being reinvented too, by a Spaniard with a
passion for architecture and a love for history…
“Compared to the Foreign office with its elaborate
frescoes”, Serrano speaks as we start wondering
through lofty corridors, “the Arch is quite plain,
but has a wonderful energy to it.”
I would like to use the public spaces to display
both traditional and contemporary art and will be
forging relationships with the National Gallery, the
Royal Navy and others to this end.
The building does of course speak for itself – I just
want to give it back its energy.
He shows us a visual map of the tour at the outset.
Has anyone driving through it ever noticed, I
wonder, that the two sides of the fan-like structure
are not equal but only look so through optical
illusion?
We stop momentarily at the space where the lift
will be – right now, there is a picture of what it
will look like and even before Serrano tells me so,
I recognise it as the very ornate lift of Le Bristol,
Paris.
The building itself is a veritable maze of corridors,
hallways, vast rooms with ornate fireplaces (many,
historically important), stern portraits of admiralty
lords, solidly built limestone stairways and, endless
recess areas that will lend themselves perfectly to
repose space amid the vast splendour of the new
hotel.
What is truly amazing is the flood of light from
just about everywhere and the relative quiet – we
are, after all, in the middle of one of the busiest
thoroughfares of the capital.
Serrano is intimate with every detail, of course,
and shows us where every breakfast room and
restaurant will be, but reserves the piece de
resistence – or rather, two of them – for last.
These are both extremities of the Arch – the rooftop
and the below ground bunkers that once housed
top secret archives including Lady Thatcher’s
personal notes.
If the below ground is still alive with history, it is
the rooftop that I fall in love with.
Walking around would give you a full 360 degree
view of London’s most important landmarks, but
also, the crowd down below in Trafalgar Square
and the best view of Buckingham Palace.
It is perhaps there that I truly come to appreciate
what the Arch’s new custodian-in-chief means by
the unique “Britishness” of the project. After all,
you cannot get more British or, for that matter,
more London, than this.
Rafael Serrano
Serrano is a walking definition of a new breed
of entrepreneurs who think and live in a global
dimension. He speaks several languages fluently
and, having lived here and there and pretty much
everywhere, exudes cosmopolitan confidence
without a trace of arrogance. His admiration for
humility punctuates much of our conversation, in
fact.
Serrano is intensely private and insists that
Admiralty Arch should remain the focus of our
conversation. Still, through snippets of volunteered
information, one can just about start building a
portrait of the man.
He describes himself as “citizen of the world”,
having left Madrid 25 years ago and lived in Milan,
Paris, New York and a number of other countries
in emerging markets, including Brazil. He has
a curiosity, understanding and appreciation for
other cultures the likes of which one seldom
comes across.
London appears to have been his first foreign
city and one he keeps getting drawn to (he is
the founding investor and developer behind the
Bulgari hotel and Residences in London).
That said, he also likes New York (he tells me he
went there for a few months and ended up staying
4 years) and is “very much into the American work
rhythm and ethos”.
If you work hard and are passionate about
achievement, people will respect you. I love the
energy of that and the whole Anglo-Saxon spirit of
celebrating achievers rather than begrudging it to
them. He says he was lucky to have arrived in NY
in 1996, during the Clinton/Guiliani era when the
city was peaceful, prosperous and generally better.
Serrano’s inspiration in design was the late Alberto
Pinto, whom he describes as a genius, a man full
of energy and creativity. He spent much time
in Pinto’s studio and loves working with French
artists to this day. Serrano lived in Paris in 1991 and
says, once again, he is fortunate to have lived in
particular “spaces of time”. Paris at the time was
“full of art, culture fashion… with less bureaucracy
and politicking”.
The city retains, he says, aspects of that energy and
he hopes this will not change.
Ever since his father took him, as a young boy,
to the Italian Embassy in Madrid, he was smitten
with Italian architecture. Later on, his love for
the country, its culture, its music, its food and its
people grew exponentially. He is perfectly fluent
in the language because, he says,” this is not just
about learning a language - I like to be able to
understand people”.
Serrano comes from an investment banking
background but in his heart is in land. His
grandmother owned vineyards and gave him a
special love “for the earth”.
He bought his first property at 19 - a much loved
mews house in Knightsbridge London, often
referred to as the “friendly house”, recently sold
but remembered fondly.
Having done the prerequisite law degree that
“gives you a lot of gravitas in Southern European
countries”, Serrano started investing seriously in
property. He bought a few more London houses
and, while still with JP Morgan, he acquired land
in NY, on the Upper Hudson river. The land status
was changed from office to residential and the
subsequent development and sale allowed him
to create his own private equity vehicle, Prime
Investors Capital.
“We are”, he says, “very careful and old-fashioned
when it comes to selecting properties and
protecting our investment”.
When Prime Investors Capital works with coinvestors, it is with sovereign wealth funds and big
international companies.
He is, however, the only investor in Admiralty
Arch. “If I get co-investors here”, he says, “it would
be a sophisticated partner”. One of his ‘partners’ is
none other than the Spanish Government, in fact,
in advising on the Cervantes Institute in Eaton
Square.
Prime Investors Capital will, he says, continue to
specialise in developing public buildings and the
company’s track record will doubtless help him
with future bids.
Serrano is a great admirer of Former Prime
Minister Baroness Margaret Thatcher who, he
says, “opened the UK to the international business
based on meritocracy and made it attractive to
people like me to come and do business here”.
He is also a “big fan” of the royal family for their
integrity, humility and sense of responsibility.
They are, he says, leading by way of example – and
the world needs leadership; without it, we are lost.
He talks about the importance of respecting the
local community and the responsibility to give
back – and although It very easily could, none
of it sounds cheesy or grandiloquent. Probably
because of the palpable enthusiasm and passion
the man positively exudes….
Probably because he really does see himself as
a custodian of what Sir Aston Webb created 100
years ago….
“Not only are we responsible for preserving the
heritage of the building”, he says, “but we have
an opportunity to do more than that - we should
enhance and protect it for future generation.”
“It is a major task and I like to be very focused.
And after you’ve put all that drive, energy and
focus into each day, when you go to bed, you have
to ask yourself: have I achieved something today?”
To me, that goes a long way to summing up Serrano,
the man.
Beyond Indulgence
A
s you rise up on this grand stairway to heaven,
you recognise it for what it really is: an imperial
complex of terraces and tiers, floating walkways and
etheric spires. Walk among the cloud-seeking columns
in the grandeur of a mandarin and spot the undulating
pools of koi-carp among the carefully positioned trees
and ferns.
Jade Mountain
Jade Mountain – the name itself has a certain totemic awe. After ascending
from the ebon-wood reception, Jade Mountain first looms in front of you
like a sun-gold monolith, a gigantic carved stone structure that, one might
imagine, stands testament to humanity’s fervour and passion.
The inspiration for the resort was the carved jade
mountains of Chinese traditional sculpture; and the
resort itself epitomises this synthesis of natural and manmade beauty. The Jade Mountain resort is an experience
designed primarily for couples, although anyone can
feel and understand the absolute magnificence that
abounds here. It is a place that arrests you with sheer
wonderment at the power of the universe and of the
people in it. Simply put, Jade Mountain provides the
perfect setting for the sort of emotional response that
is said to be a form of enlightenment in itself. This
writer is hosted in the Galaxy Suite, one of a pair of
‘rooms’ on the penultimate floor of the complex. Half
open to the elements (with the zephyr sent to chill the
rooms as welcome – if not more so – than the sun’s
rays), one only has to look over the edge of the Suite’s
peerless parapet to realise that the high minded name
is fully deserved.
Opposite the hotel are the volcanic Pitons overlooking
a sapphire bay; it is a stunning sight even for just a
few seconds, yet a perennial one for the near-gods atop
Jade Mountain. Below and all around are the lands and
forests of St Lucia, a viridian sea lapping at the oceans
around the bays of the Pitons and the Anse Chastanet
beach. At sundown, when the shadowy volcanoes
loom out of the distant darkness and the sky is made
of diamonds, one can feel the world – the galaxy –
pulsating all around; and one realises that, despite
the pessimism of ‘our lonely planet’, at this moment
one really is the centre of it all, in this time and in
this space of glorious mysticism. All this is, of course,
coming from hours of lounging and floating on the
signature infinity pool that covers up to a third of one’s
(very, very large) suite.
The whirlpool bath, while a delightful possibility in
itself, seemed to me to pale in comparison next to this
sun-speckled pool of iridescent glass tiles. Looking
outwards, one has the visual effect of the pool’s waters
sliding over the sides, while the more distant seas
themselves slide into the infinite horizon. At night,
when the water finally become a little too chilly for
comfort, step back onto the coral, stone and hardwood
floor – a marriage of design – and slip under your bed
covers, drifting off to the soothing medley of open
space…
Waking up in the morning means a pleasant breakfast
of light and airy touches. The mélange-like cocoa tea,
despite its initially strange flavour, is an easily acquired
taste and instills in one a heavenly sense of well-being
that lasts throughout the day (I am later told that the
drink is used locally as an aphrodisiac). Dining at
Jade Mountain is
also a truly beyond
any
mundane
conception of ‘haute
cuisine’ that you
might hold. Aided
by one of the most
famous New World
chefs, Allen Susser,
the Jade Mountain
kitchen is a paragon
of tropical and FarEastern styles, both
of which are fused
to create some of the
most exciting, oneof-a kind dishes I
have ever tasted. It is a testament to the staff at Jade
Mountain that they have adapted to the fickle supply
from the resort’s organic farm, the Emerald Estate,
and have used its superlative produce to create a
world class gastronomy which will surprise you every
single day and night. Personal highlights include the
succulent sashimi (prepared on-site by the hotel’s
sushi-chefs of course); the unsurpassable blue marlin
steak, impossibly full of flavour and the melt-in-yourmouth wagyu flat-iron steak.
The setting is cool: coral stone floor and pillars, the
small moonlit pool in the centre and the potted palm
fronds transport you to a world of exotic divinity. The
sea breeze caresses the warm candle on the table. The
staff, in sable uniforms, are courteous but quick to fade
from your presence. Each of the couples dining here
impeccably dressed and as dreamily perfect as the
hotel itself, shine in their own, intimate limelight. This,
the fairytale love story, is the power of Jade Mountain,
the effortless grace to bring two people together; after
all, how many of the best stories end with the lovers in
each others’ arms?
P O Box 4000, Soufriere,
St. Lucia, West Indies
Tel: 758-459-4000/ 7000/ 6100
Email: jademountain@ansechastanet.com
Beyond Indulgence
Carlisle Bay
There is something
immediately reassuring
about Carlisle Bay, the five
star hotel and spa nestled
near the Southern locale
of St Mary's, Antigua, in a
secluded cove after which
the hotel takes its name.
At first, it is difficult to
put one's finger on exactly
what that is but, much like
the astonishing, piercing
blue of the Caribbean
sea after a dive, it quickly
becomes clear.
ike a very small number of establishments
around the world, Carlisle Bay is widely
considered to be a cut above the rest. There is
a traditional elegance that pervades everything
about this charming island retreat; an unspoken
assumption that quality speaks for itself.
Whether by design or by nature, everything
about this place says, quietly but assuredly, that
it is more than a hotel – it is an institution.
The 82 suits that make up the hotel are the
definition of simple elegance – crisp, minimalist
but also unquestionably luxurious. From the
junior to the three bedroom suite, all are built
with room to spare, with the clean-cut minimal
style adding to the sense of spaciousness. An
interesting quirk is provided by the choice of dark
wooden furniture in each of the rooms – a nod
to the aforementioned colonial style and evidence
of Carlisle Bay's insistence on superior quality
throughout.
It is fairly easy, of course, to let the facts do
the talking when you are sitting pretty in the
Caribbean – and Carlisle Bay is, admittedly,
quite the picture. The design is the result of a
collaboration between CampbellGray Hotels
(who also operate a hotel in Beirut and will
open another soon in Amman, Jordan) and
British designer Mary Fox Linton, with the aim
to encapsulate the concept of 'barefoot luxury'.
To create this effect, the hotel captures styles
from around the world. Far Eastern elements
abound, notably in the Japanese minimalist
features and garden design (landscaped by
London-based James Holderness), as do
various British colonial touches that are still
prevalent in Antiguan lifestyle. Pavilions
and gazebos stretch out over the sand while
comfortable wicker furniture and cream sofas
laze laconically underneath.
Antigua itself, of course, can well afford to rest on
its laurels as an outstanding tourist destination.
The island, twinned with Barbuda (and Redonda)
to make up a Commonwealth nation, is one of
the most enchanting destinations in the area.
Encircled with a beach for every day of the year
(365), the leeward island is the envy of the world as
the very image of a perfect getaway location. Every
year in May, the International Sailing Week sees
the world’s fastest and most beautiful yachts and
their crew congregate for a week of competitive
racing and socialising. All manner of water sports
are practised here, although not on the idyllic
Southern shores of the island, where Carlisle Bay
and the historically significant English harbour are
well protected from the winds. All of that without
even mentioning the outstanding natural beauty
that comes with Antigua's privileged position
near a range of coral reefs. In fact, Antigua boasts
L
nearly all of the Caribbean's best known features
of natural beauty – from beaches and coral reefs to
mangroves and caves.
Naturally, Carlisle Bay offer customised services for
all guests to experience these wonders first hand.
Scuba diving and snorkelling expeditions to the
nearby Cades reef are organised regularly, and a 24
hour room and concierge service is always available
for help with any island hopping exploration.
Offering an authentic West Indian experience is of
key importance to the hotel, and the local guides
are quick to offer advice in Caribbean patois as
well as assistance in hotel-organised helicopter
trips to nearby Montserrat, with its active volcano,
or for sailing trips to the pristine beaches and
nature reserve on Barbuda. Zip line tour across the
rainforest canopy of Antigua is firmly encouraged
– Carlisle Bay is backed by the trees which makes
up this tropical paradise.
Sports enthusiasts will also find a home away
from home here with nine tennis courts and an
instructor present at the hotel, the renowned
Cedar Valley Golf Club minutes away. With deep
sea fishing also possible, the wealth of activities
available on the island make this far from a
pedestrian beach holiday.
For those who do want to relax, however, Carlisle
Bay extends its customary standard of excellence
to its Spa and health centre. A wide variety of
beauty and massage treatments are offered at the
Blue Spa, which also hosts a sauna and plunge
pool – great after an extended session in Carlisle
Bay's large, free form swimming pool, which forms
the central part of the hotel. Yoga and Pilates are
also offered, alongside a fully equipped gym, to
provide a fully-fledged leisure experience.
The sophisticated, cosmopolitan nature of Carlisle
Bay has made it an enduringly popular destination
in the competitive Caribbean market. The secret
is simple – by offering an unrivalled standard
of service, expert local knowledge, superlative
design and the full breadth of features by which to
maximise one's Caribbean experience, Carlisle Bay
can rest easy in the knowledge that the quality on
offer here is, quite simply, unquestionable. The 3
restaurants on the property – international foodserving Indigo, pan-Asian restaurant East and
newly opened Italian eatery Ottimo! (which offers
wood-fired pizzas) – simply serve to reinforce
those values of excellence. If Antigua is the dream
location to which the world wants to go then
Carlisle Bay is the ultimate resort from which noone would ever want to leave.
Old Road St. John's, Carlisle Bay,
Antigua and Barbuda
Telephone: +1 268-484-0000
E-mail: reservations@carlisle-bay.com
Beyond Indulgence
Beyond Indulgence
Hacienda
Los
Lingues®
Hacienda Los Lingues®, 125km south of Chile’s capital
Santiago, is one of the country's best-maintained
grand estates. Found at the hub of the wine-producing
Colchagua Valley and framed by the soaring Andes
mountains nearby, visiting Los
Lingues® puts you at the very
heart of the dynamic Chilean
environment.
L
os Lingues® takes full advantage of its enviable
position in the midst of 9,000 acres of
farmland, flourishing vineyards and on-site stables.
In addition to the nearby wine-making Châteaux
(the renowned Viña Los Vascos(Domaine Barons
De Rothschild(lafit) ), the estate also maintains a
word-class standard in horse-breeding at its Aculeo
stable – as well as holding its own as part of a 20,000
acre working ranch.
The estate’s heritage dates back to 1575 when King
Felipe of Spain presented it to the then mayor of
Santiago, Don Melchor Juffre de Aguilla. For over
four hundred years, the land has been passed
down to his descendents, making it one of the
oldest family run businesses on the continent
(and twentieth oldest in the world). Incredibly, the
house itself, and land around it, has changed little
since then. Any maintenance, and regular works
undertaken to ensure that the Hacienda continues
to meet the highest standards of luxury hospitality,
are done in the presence of historians to ensure
that the original style of architecture is preserved.
The main villa itself, with its manicured gardens,
classic porticos and elegant living rooms transports
you back in time to the 17th and 18th century.
Fourteen vast rooms, furnished with ornate brass
beds and heated by wood stoves are some of the
intimate features that give the hacienda such
character. Each room is unique with quirky antique
furnishings and idiosyncratic ornaments. In 2014,
Los Lingues® will also add a 400sq m stand-alone
house, designed in traditional Chilean style, that
comprises three ensuite bedrooms, a living room
and a kitchen – replete with its own personal chef.
A more in-depth tour of the hacienda reveals an
impressive stone-walled Games room, replete
with billiards table; the romanticized Englishstyle Lyon’s Bar, built with the finest Chilean
wood, millenary alerce (one of the world’s oldest
living trees); the charming Red Room used as a
living room; the grand and lavish Dining room and
magnificent Chapel. The Yellow Room, considered
Panamerican Highway km. 124,5 - 5 km East Side,
San Fernando 3070000, Chile
Phone:+ 56 22 4310510
Email: gclarol@gmail.com
the meeting point of guests at the hacienda, is a
labyrinth of trinkets. French Bacaratt crystal lamps,
a 100 year-old Steinway piano, the marble table relic of the first President of the Governing body
of Chile, Don Mateo de Toro – all these precious
decorations infuse Los Lingues® with character
and resplendence.
wine list, each meal is presented as a true epicurean
a minimum of 10 years. Needless to say, a visit to
indulgence.
said cellar, which showcases such a wide variety
Sumptuous four-course dinners, vacillating
between old-world and Chilean cuisine (according
to demand) make use of local produce and, of
course, the organic produce of the estate. The menu
also offers fresh fruit from the nearby orchard and
fresh vegetables, honey and eggs from the farm.
Anything that isn't produced directly on-site is
brought in from the immediate vicinity - Los
Lingues® supports local trade enterprises. Using
opulent crystal, silverware and fine china, and
featuring the hacienda's own, definitive Chilean
each with their accompanying reserve vintages,
As referred to above, four centuries of history are
embedded in Hacienda Los Lingues®, allowing for
the cultivation of superior wines – an oenophiles’
paradise.
A selection of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Rosé wines,
are just some of the grape varieties on offer. Each
offering is the result of the establish collaboration
with the Châteaux Viña Los Vascos(Domaine Barons
De Rothschild(lafit), whereby the hacienda select
individual wines from the former's production line
to be finished, bottled and labelled with the Los
Lingues® trademark.
For true extravagance, sample some of the finer
wines in the cellar, all of which have been aged for
of different stocks, harvests and vintages - and a
subsequent wine-tasting - is a delight in and of
itself, and certainly paves the way for a relaxing
afternoon!
For those who prefer to enjoy their wine in the
evening, however, other activities include mountain
biking or horse-riding through miles of trails and
the sweeping, emerald-hued countryside. Los
Lingues® can also be used as a base to visit local
olive oil mills and other wineries, or as a base camp
for an excursion to the famous Sewell mines, high
up in the Andes. Hacienda Los Lingues was one of
the 1,000 places to see before you die according to
Patricia Shultz, in her 2003 book, a New York Times
best seller and it’s easy to see why.
Beyond Indulgence
Sublime
Samana Hotel & Residences
Caressing the crystal-clear waters of the Samaná
Peninsula, Sublime Samana Hotel & Residences, an
exclusive collection of 26 private suites and villas, is
a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the WorldTM.
T
he seven-acre property centers around
the expansive canal of pools stretching
nearly 500 feet from end-to-end. Suites
have been artfully built to create a
contemporary setting in harmony with
nature. From the moment you arrive, the
warm sea breezes and the soothing sound
of the waves crashing against the shore
transport you to a relaxed state of mind.
For a complete escape, Sublime offers an
ocean-side spa pavilion where relaxing
massages are enjoyed with the tranquil
sound of the Atlantic Ocean. The culinary
experience is just as enticing with only
fresh local ingredients incorporated into
each dish.
Bahía de Coson 32000
Las Terrenas, República Dominicana
Tel: +1 809 240 5050
Email: reservations@sublimesamana.com
www.sublimesamana.com
Beyond Indulgence
The Lodge at
Pico
Bonito
Nestled at the foot of the Pico Bonito
National Park, The Lodge at Pico
Bonito seamlessly combines nature
and luxurious comfort. The luxury ecolodge located on the Caribbean coast of
Honduras near La Ceiba is a member of
Small Luxury Hotels of the WorldTM.
T
he Lodge offers the adventure of the outdoors, the beauty of the rain
forest, and the personal service and luxury of a boutique hotel.
Twenty-two private standard and superior cabins furnished in plantation
style are approximately 400 square feet and feature furnishings crafted
from native woods complimented by crisp white bedding, vaulted ceilings,
and large louvered and screened windows that frame the lush tropical
jungle. Itzama, the Lodge’s full service restaurant & bar, specializes in
Mesoamerican cuisine featuring local Honduran dishes. The chef uses
fresh seafood and locally grown herbs and vegetables to create a unique
flavor-rich palette.
Surrounded by nature, there are many adventures The Lodge at Pico
Bonito has to offer including bird watching for over 400 species, hiking to
waterfalls and natural swimming holes, whitewater rafting, snorkeling at
Cayos Cochinos, and exploring Cuero y Salado Wildlife Refuge.
AP710, La Ceiba, CP31101, Honduras
Tel: +504 2440 0388
Email: reservation@picobonito.com
www.picobonito.com
Beyond Indulgence
Esencia
estate
Esencia is not a typical hotel,
though it certainly offers the
personal service and pampering
facilities you’d expect at a refined
world-class resort.
E
sencia is a 50-acre private estate, with an awe-inspiring
beachfront, two swimming pools, day spa, gourmet
restaurant, and an indulgent atmosphere fitting of royalty. In
fact, the property and many of the buildings once served as
the exclusive beach-side retreat of an actual Italian duchess.
Brought to life by its natural surroundings and elements,
“Esencia” explores all of life’s most unique pleasures
touching on each individual’s senses. Set on one of the best
beaches in the Riviera Maya, Esencia, a member of Small
Luxury Hotels of the WorldTM, offers the soothing sound of
the water with incredible views, sophisticated cuisine with
rustic simplicity, personalized butler service and luxurious
amenities.
The restaurant Sal y Fuego, meaning salt and fire, specializes
in international modern sophisticated cuisine with a
Mexican flair. Aroma Spa, the first pampering organic spa in
the Riviera Maya offers an array of face and body treatments
and therapeutic baths incorporating pure indigenous fruits,
plants and herbs.
Carretera Cancún-Tulum Km. 265
Xpu-Ha, Q. Roo 77750, Mexico
Tel: +52 984 873 4830
Email: reservations@hotelesencia.com
URL: www.hotelesencia.com
Beyond Indulgence
Casa Bonita
Tropical Lodge
Once the weekend retreat of the
Schiffino family Casa Bonita has
been budged by nature to open
its doors to outside guests and
become an eco-lodge.
L
ocated in Barahona, in the still unspoiled and secluded
southwest region of the Dominican Republic and adjacent
to the only biosphere reserve in the country, Casa Bonita offers
a unique ecological experience.
This is a place where the lush green mountains create the
backdrop for the perfect sunrise, the running rivers bordering
the property sooth guests into relaxation and the microclimates
keep the air crisp and fresh.
A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the WorldTM, Casa Bonita
consists of 12 cabanas, a river spa and restaurant featuring
naturally grown products from the area.
Km. 17 Carretera de la Costa
Bahoruco-Barahona,
República Dominicana
Tel: +1 809 476 5059
Email: info@casabonitadr.com
www.casabonitadr.com
Beyond Indulgence
Casas
del XVI
Nestled in the heart of the oldest city
in the New World, Santo Domingo’s
Ciudad Colonial, the three houses
that make up Casas del XVI offer
travelers the chance to step back
in time to experience the vibrant
culture, romantic architecture and
stunning monuments born of the
sixteenth century.
W
ith a focus on both preserving the original architecture
and also celebrating the vibrant Dominican culture, the
interior of each house is decorated according to a theme relating
to Dominican culture and sixteenth century history. Guests will
revel in the luxury, privacy and comfort of staying in a home, while
enjoying the services of a boutique hotel and member of Small
Luxury Hotels of the WorldTM. A butler tends to each house, ready
to take care of any and all guests’ needs.
Step outside to the historic streets of the Ciudad Colonial, and
explore the area’s mosaic of museums, recondite theaters, ancient
monuments, outdoor cafes, delectable restaurants, enchanting
nightlife and romantic colonial mansions.
C/ Padre Billini #252, Ciudad Colonial
Santo Domingo, República Dominicana
Tel: +1 809 688 4061
Beyond Indulgence
Despite the many positive effects of globalization, there are parts of the
world that some of us selfishly wish would stay the same forever. At a
time when fewer and fewer places are left 'undiscovered', there are still
pockets of tundras, valleys or coasts that retain an air of mystery, a secretive
splendour that is infinitely rewarding to find and explore.
MUKUL
resort
F
or many, the winding coastlines of Central America retains this
mystique. Certainly in contrast to booming Brazil to the South
or the over-developed ocean-front areas of the USA to the North, the
Central American countries are often referred to in the same breath as
'adventure travel'. While obviously laughable to reduce the disparate
nations of such a vast swathe of land to such travel agency clichés, the
label has undoubtedly proven beneficial in attracting a certain type of
tourism to this part of the world. It is only recently, relatively speaking,
that certain members of the hospitality industry in Central America
have decided to take advantage of a growing sense of internationalism
and global communication to showcase the fact that visits to this area
can satisfy both a sense of adventure and wonder and the demands for
total luxury demanded by today's elite traveller.
Step forward Mukul Resort, Nicaragua's Emerald Coast paradise on the
water. The South-Western city of Rivas is the nearest major conurbation
to this green-clad haven, surrounded by breathtaking forest, jungle and
grassland for miles around. The Emerald Coast itself – consistently
referred to as some of Central America's most interesting real estate
for investors – is a 30mile stretch of sandy beaches, imposing cliff faces
and vast swathes of untouched local flora. Nestled in the midst of this
pristine environment is Mukul, a 'resort' that revels in the fact that its
wide open spaces and commitment to the long-term sustainable future
of the local ecosystem almost defies its very descriptor.
Mukul's strength is that its relationship with its surroundings
is much akin to the one between guest and host. The area
plays host to the resort, which seems to almost act as a luxury
layer on top of the local landscape, rather than an aggressive
intervention into the natural balance of this special place.
And, undoubtedly, it is special, with a set of majestic beaches,
complete with crystalline greeny-blue water, skirting the
plentiful, lush jungle areas that are home to a dizzying variety
of native fauna. Mukul pays it dues to the animal kingdom with
a respect from which many could learn: they have launched
various conservation programs to protect the environment
and to re-populate the indigenous turtle habitat.
Although it is one of its most praiseworthy features, and one
that defines the nature of this halcyon place, the Mukul Resort
also offers much more than conservation. In total, thirtyseven guest quarters hold within them the most charming
examples of Nicaraguan hospitality. Sustainably sourced local
wood (mostly teak and pine) is the primary material used to
construct the twelve beach villas and twenty three bohios, and
the care with which they have been constructed, combined
with their enviable positions (either on the waterfront or set
further back, against the backdrop of lush rainforest canopy
and some 300 feet above the Playa Manzanillo) ensure that
represent a truly unique home away from home.
The Mukul Spa and Golf Course perfectly complement the
peaceful, restful nature of the resort, which can on occasion
feel like a beautiful, natural sanctuary. One of the signature
details of the Spa is the Watsu massage, performed in the
specially designed 'Secret Garden' (an enclosed massage room
meets pool house, with a plethora of plantlife encroaching
from all sides). The therapy is an underwater combination
of hydrotherapy and shiatsu, which helps to soothe muscle
aches, relax the body and mind, and improve circulation.
The full sensual experience is rounded off with a hydrating
“Walk in the Clouds” aroma wrap which envelops one's body
in a heavenly, soothing cocoon while you receive a uniquely
formulated hair and scalp conditioning treatment, made with
a blend of 15 exotic oils. A seawater peel and hydrating facial
completes the process.
Away from this haven of wave and rocks, jungles and beaches,
flora and fauna, the adventures of Nicaragua await. From the
breaking waves at surfers paradise Gigante to the colonial
charms of Granada - the oldest city to be established on the
American continent – with ash-boarding down the towering
slopes of the dormant Cerro Negro volcano in between (and
maybe even a spot of rum from a tour of the local distillery –
although we wouldn't advise taking all four together), this is a
trip that you are not likely to forget in a hurry.
Km 10, Tola, Las Salinas - Playa Manzanillo, Guacalito de La Isla, Nicaragua
Phone:+505 2563 7100 E-mail: reservations@mukulresort.com
Beyond Indulgence
sandy lane
In 1961 former British politician Ronald Tee, who was
particularly partial to the island of Barbados, decided to create
a five-star luxury hotel with a golf course; and he settled on
the site of an old sugar plantation called Sandy Lane...
I
n any traveller’s island-hopping career, Sandy
Lane is both physically and symbolically
the ultimate destination, for it represents the
quintessential Caribbean in terms of both history
and splendour.
Doubtless many of our readers are familiar with its
palatial facade and parklands - part of Sandy Lane’s
enduring fame. Perhaps they are familiar with its
relatively recent renovations that synergise the
traditional munificence of grandeur with the most
modern of cutting edge technologies (all the latest
gadgets and whatnot that complete our modern
demands and expectations) and all the amenities
which redefine luxury on a whole new, extraordinary
level. After all, Sandy Lane boasts of a returning
guest rate of more than 50%, which speaks volumes
about its perennial seductiveness despite a famously
exclusive price-tag.
There is more to it, however, than the prerequisite 5
star luxuries of grand hotels the world over.
There is, for starters, the unquestionable pedigree
that comes from decades of hosting many of the
world’s most discerning travellers, as well as the
original St James’ villa owners.
Le beau monde – a mixture of blue-blooded Brits,
Jockey Club members, industrialists and sundry
wealthy business people – has traditionally wintered
at Sandy Lane and the hotel has long maintained a
club-like atmosphere.
Dining Jonathon Wright and Dominic Teague, executive
chef and executive sous-chef respectively, manage
Sandy Lane’s four restaurants that sprawl over the
estate. Both Jonathon and Dominic have worked
extensively in London’s top establishments in the
past, and are intimately familiar with their Britishbased suppliers of produce.
Bajan Blue and L’Acajou are Sandy Lane’s flagship
restaurants; the former offers an eclectic fare from
the grill – as well as the sashimi bar and pizza ovens
– and is described as the more standard option
catering to the British traditional taste. Of course,
having sampled the exquisite Miso Blackened Cod
and supreme sashimi, it is difficult to see how
Bajan Blue can be described in any possible way
as ‘standard’ - unless one assumes that this is the
standard for Sandy Lane.
The Spa
The Spa is a complex in its own right, boasting a
massive range of spa treatments both on cultural
and methodological lines. Treatments usually last just an hour but can go as far as taking up a good
portion of the day all within the exclusivity of each
guest’s own spa room. Each of these rooms, with
their own gardens and hydrotherapy pools, is a
preserve of calm and quiet dignity. Cohabiting with
the spa are the gymnasium, with all the equipment
and electronic gadgets that one can dream of in
their ideal work-out session, and the restaurant
(although there is the option of dining in one’s
private spa room). Check out the meditation room,
a surreal experience that almost hypnotises one
with its Zen appearance.
Golf
Anyone who has been to Sandy Lane will know
that Golf is synonymous with the hotel. The owners
have historically been avid golfers and its present
owners have determined to create a Sandy Lane
golfing class of its own, marrying the hotel’s long
burning love affair with the sport to their own
passion. The Country Club course, designed by
the renowned Tom Fazio, is scenery of rolling
grasslands and gentle hills, beautifully balanced
by crystal ponds and fountains. The Old Nine, the
original course of Sandy Lane, despite its smaller
size, has its own awe of an old school elegance and
class. For the truly privileged, and the dedicated
golfers, the Green Monkey course is without a
doubt one of the most prized, most exclusive
courses in the world.
The personal course of Sandy Lane’s owners and
crafted (again by Fazio) with all the passion that one
finds in the sport, has just one hour of open playing
slots each day and guarantees that you will have
much of the course to yourself.
Which is just as well, for its vast size and powerful
landscaping – recovered from an old limestone
quarry, itself currently the site of a lake sheltering
below a cliff-range – simultaneously make a round
of golf here an exploration of a paradisiacal garden.
For the select few that tread upon these grounds
Sandy Lane has produced a unique range of Green
Monkey golf-wear, unavailable even to other Sandy
Lane guests, to proclaim to the world over their
privilege. The Country Club is also host to its own
restaurant, with food as excellent as anywhere else
in Sandy Lane. Here, one can sit after some light
sporting activity and have an excellent lunch (I
would recommend the grilled Mahi Mahi, tender
and rich in flavor), while overlooking the wideranging Country Club course, extending almost all
the way to the sea on the horizon.
St. James, Barbados,
West Indies BB24024
Tel: +1 (246) 444-2000
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